LESSON 10: MARKER MODES

Objectives:
Understanding the impact of fabric nap on marker planning
Examine the role of symmetry and directionality of fabric

The form of the fabric and whether it is symmetrical and/or directional determine the
appropriate type of marker for a style. Markers may be open or closed depending on the
form that the fabric is presented for cutting. Rolled fabrics are open and flat when spread.
Markers for this type of spread require pattern pieces for each part to be cut. Markers made
with full-pattern pieces for each part to be cut. Markers made with full-pattern pieces are
called open markers. Tubular knit fabrics are closed on both edges and therefore require
pattern pieces that utilize the folds. Markers with half-pattern pieces for laying along the
folds of the tube are called closed markers. Garment parts must be symmetrical if halfpattern pieces are used.
Marker makers must also consider the symmetry (side-to-side) and directionality
(end-to-end) differences in fabrics. Symmetric fabrics are the same side-to-side.
Asymmetric fabrics such as border prints are different side-to-side. Non-directional
fabrics are the same end-to-end. Directional fabrics are different end-to-end. Examples of
directional fabrics include knits, n fabrics, and prints with flowers all growing in one
direction.
The marker mode is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric. There
are three types of marker modes: nap-either-way (N/E/W), nap-one-way (N/O/W), and
nap-up-and-down (N/U/D). In this case, the term nap is " to indicate the fabric is directional
- it is different end-to-end. The nap of a fabric is created by its structure (corduroy or
an unbalanced plaid), a finish, or a directional print. With symmetric, nondirectional
fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line. This
marker mode is called nap-either-way (N/E/W). Pieces are placed for best fabric utilization.
On some directional fabrics, such as corduroy, it may be possible for all the pattern
pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and another size placed ill the opposite
direction. This is called nap-up-and-down (N/U/D). With this type of marker, the nap of
corduroy jeans may run down for a size 7 and up for a size 9. The critical factor is that the
nap must run the same direction in all the pieces of one garment. Napped fabric such as
corduroy will appear shaded if the pieces in one garment have the nap running in different

directions. Generally N/U/D will yield a better utilization of fabric than N/O/W.
A marker is made for a specific style, fabric, and number of sizes. The length of the
marker determines the length of the lay that will be spread. Completed markers are sent to
the cutting room electronically or in hard copy for the spreading and cutting processes.