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Garment Marker | Marker Efficiency | Factors of Marker


Efficiency
Marker
Marker is a thin paper on which all pattern pieces f or all sizes f or a particular style of garments are drawn
in such way that maximum f abrics will be used and f abric wastage will be minimum.
Marker Efficiency:
T he ratio of area f or pattern pieces that are
placed on the marker to the total area of the
marker expressed as percentage is called marker
ef f iciency.
Marker ef f iciency is the important part of
garments manuf acturing. Direct cost of garments
could be utilized by marker ef f iciency. Salary of a
marker planner truly depends upon the capability
to increase the marker ef f iciency.

Marke r

Marker ef f iciency is determined by f abric utilization, the percentage of the total f abric that is actually used
in garment parts. T he area not used in garment parts is waste. Marker ef f iciency depends on how tightly the
pattern pieces f it together within the marker. T he total surf ace area of the pattern pieces is compared to
the total area of the marker to calculate the percentage of f abric that is used. T his is determined
automatically by marker-planning sof tware. If marker-making and marker planning technology is not
available, the area of each pattern piece may be determined by a perimeter a mechanical device that
calculates the surf ace area as the outline of the pattern is traced. Factors that af f ect marker ef f iciency are
f abric characteristics, shape of the pattern pieces, and grain requirements.
Objectives of Marker Efficiency:
-Examine how f abric utilization af f ects marker ef f iciency
-Enumerate the f actors af f ecting material utilization
Factors of Marker Efficiency
1. Fabric Characteristics
2. Characteristics of Pattern Pieces
3. Grain Line Orientation
4. Standards of Fabric Utilization
Factors of Marker Efficiency are described briefly:
Fabric Characteristics:
Fabric characteristics that af f ect utilization include dif f erences in f ace and back, lengthwise directionality,
crosswise symmetry, need f or matching the f abric design, length of design repeat, and f abric width. T hese
f abric characteristics f requently limit the arrangement of pattern pieces. Matching f abric designs requires
special marker preparation and extra piece goods. Stripe or plaid lines must be indicated on pattern pieces
and markers f or accurate alignment and matching to corresponding pieces. T he greater the length between
repeats increases the potential f or f abric waste.
Characteristics of Pattern Pieces:
Characteristics of pattern pieces may limit f abric utilization. Generally the f abric utilization percentage

increases when a variety of garment sizes are used in the same marker and when the marker contains both
large and small pieces. Smaller pieces can of ten be nested with larger pieces. T he shape of the pattern
pieces determine hoe close they can be f it together (interlock). Irregular shaped pieces are dif f icult to f it
together with other pieces. Large pattern pieces are less f lexible and of ten dictate the placement of other
pieces.
Grain Line Orientation:
Grain line markings determine the placement of the pattern relative to the warp yarns in wovens or wales in
knit f abrics. Pattern pieces with a similar grain orientation, if grouped together on the marker, generally
produce better utilization. Combining several bias pieces and straight grain pieces may not f it together as
well and create more f abric waste. Markers usually have good utilization when all pattern pieces are on the
bias or all pieces are cut on straight grain.

T he f irm's standards f or grain tolerance may also af f ect marker ef f iciency. Tilting specif ic pattern pieces 1
or 2 percent may not be noticeable, and it may increase f abric utilization noticeably. T his practice can impact
the f it and drape of he f inished garment but it may not be noticeable to the untrained eye. Computer
marker-making programs will lock in the grain orientation of each piece unless an override f unction is used
to adjust them. T his can be done on a piece-by-piece basis.
Standards of Fabric Utilization:
Firms of ten establish f abric utilization standards. Firms producing basics may strive f or 90 to 97 percent
utilization, while f ashion-f irms may be able to achieve only 80 to 85 percent. It is important f or f irms to
document material utilization and variances f rom the standards to monitor improvements or f actors that
impact the utilization. Better utilization is normally developed f or basic styles because optimum f abric
widths are used consistently and more time invested in cut planning and manipulating pattern pieces in the
markers to reduce waste of materials. Markers f or basic styles are used to cut large volumes of piece
goods and may be kept on f ile and used repeatedly; thus, the time invested in improving utilization results
in greater savings.

Markers f or f ashion styles and Quick Response strategies may be used only once or f or a limited number
of spreads and f ew ply. Fashion garments are subject to constant changes in styling and materials and
tight deadlines that limit the time available to develop ef f icient markers.
Author of T his Article:
Noor Ahmed Raaz
B.Sc. in Fashion & Design
University of Chittagong
Contact:
Email: raju.uttara72@yahoo.com
Mobile: +8801722797194
Facebook: Raaz Noor

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