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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

INDIA

FESTIVALS MYTHOLOGY
WILDLIFE MARKETS
MUSEUMS PALACES
HOTELS NATIONAL PARKS
TREKKING BEACHES MAPS
THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU


 
 

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

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The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

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##
The external boundaries of India as shown in this book are
neither correct nor authentic.

Ashokan Capital, Sarnath

  

 




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at Khajuraho,
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INTRODUCING
INDIA

DISCOVERING INDIA 813


PUTTING INDIA ON THE MAP 1417
A PORTRAIT OF INDIA 1833
INDIA THROUGH THE YEAR 3439
THE HISTORY OF INDIA 4057

               

 

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Colourful Kohima

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+,)**%&.'''"*
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THE ARID WEST


!,)!,%5)6)57%2(7,)6)1-%5-(6'58&0%2(6
%(.3-2-2+-76844357%68545-6-2+9%5-)7<3*
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+-9):%<*857,)5:)67737,)&%55)26%07*0%76
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THE GANGETIC PLAINS


!,)5-',%0089-%063-03*7,)6)9%6740%-26
:,-',675)7',%'53662(-%*5317,)
2357,:)67737,))%67,%6&))2'807-9%7)(*35
7,386%2(63*<)%56!3(%<5-')%6:)00%6
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Blackbucks )
$&%+*. +*+
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Asiatic lions&%
&,%##&-)%&)+)%
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Crested serpent eagles

)#))'+&)*. +
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Asian elephants

%,$)&%#/

 %&$
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Painted storks

$ )++&#"*%
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&$$&% %$&*+
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THE COASTS
!,)(-9)56)0%2(6'%4)63*7,)'3%676-2'08()
6%2(<&)%',)6-23%%2()5%0%*5-2+)(&<
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%2(1%2+539)*35)676-2$)67)2+%0%2(
5-66%!,))%67'3%67-63*7)2,-7&<'<'032)6

THE DECCAN PLATEAU


)4%5%7)(*5317,)%2+)7-'0%-26&<7,)
6'%77)5)(5%2+)63*7,)#-2(,<%67,))''%2
0%7)%8-6'39)5)(:-7,&0%'/930'%2-'63-0
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Starfish. # %

+% &,*#/+&)&"*
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'&&#*###&%+
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THE GHATS
!,),-0063*7,)$)67)52%2(%67)52,%76
%5)'39)5)(:-7,*35)6763*7)%/536):33(
*#&))&,*+%2(6%2(%0:33(
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Tigers%

%%)*' *
%%,$) %
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'% %*,#)% 

Nilgiri tahrs

# - %+
 )#-
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Daniel butterflies)

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Langurs &)%,$%
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3).&8
=*&741)&7(-.9*(9:7&1
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243&89*7.*8&3).3):&3)&.39*251*8
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3).&39*251*8-4<*;*78-&7*(42243
Ceiling panel from a 897:(9:7&1(-&7&(9*7.89.(8'*.3,24891=
Jain temple
':.194+8943*(41:238&3)-47.>439&1
'14(084+9*37.(-1=(&7;*)<.9-8&(7*)
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)42*&8<*11&89-*:8*4+2479&7<*7*.3974):(*).3
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BUDDHIST ARCHITECTURE
3).&8*&71.*897*1.,.4:8243:2*398&7*89:5&8
-*2.85-*7.(&1+:3*7&7=24:3)8&3)74(0(:9
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%-.1*  +0*<*7*51&(*84+<478-.5- )*
<*7*)<*11.3,51&(*8+47:))-.8924308&3)
(438.89*)4+82&117*8.)*39.&1(*118&77&3,*)
&74:3)+4:78.)*84+&345*3(4:79
Circumambulatory
path

Sculpted column, Narayana


Temple, Melkote

Entrance
Vaulted
ceiling

Hemispherical
mound

Model stupa

Chaityas*)-*##*,7.-&8&)

&%)+ &%#.&)* '%


%*) %$&#*+,'+&%%

Torana
(gateway)
Railing

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& , *++)* %#, %+ ,.) %+))
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(-&.9=&8 -
 *+ %+ -
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HINDU TEMPLES
Vimana
(pyramidal
spire)

3 479-3).&9-*84&7.3,94<*7&'4;*
9-*.33*78&3(9:29&0*89-*+4724+&
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51&(*.3&82&11)&708&3(9:&7=034<3&8
9-* )) <42'(-&2'*7
Mandapa (hall or
pillared pavilion)

Amalaka
(circular
ribbed
motif)

Kalasha
(pot finial)

Shikhara
(curved
temple
spire)

Carvings
of deities
Entrance

South Indian temples*,*%!-,)* )  *-)


$'#8**55 ?-&)) &)*%*' &,*##*
2&3)&5&8. +')&,* &%&&)+&#,$%**#
+&+,&7'-&,7.-&&-. ) **+$,#+ *+*' )

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).9.439-&9<&8
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3).&3&7(-.
9*(9:7*486:*8
Mihrab, Bidar mosque
-&;*)42*)
(see p545)
57&=*7-&118&9
43**3)4+&3
45*3(4:79=&7)#-* $ )&7(-*)
3.(-*+&(*8<*8994<&7)8*((&#-*
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7&.8*)43&-.,-51.39-.39-*(*397*
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(&11.,7&5-=,*42*97.(5&99*738&3)
+147&1249.+89=5.(&14+81&2.(&79

ISLAMIC ARCHITECTURE
Chhatri (domed
rooftop pavilion)

An onion-shaped
dome8:724:3989-*

(*397&185&(*
Intricate
jalis

Plinth

Minarets

Taj Mahal (see pp1723), the zenith of Islamic architecture

GURDWARAS
#-*".0-,:7)<&7&&57&=*7(-&2'*7<-*7*
9-* )%+ 4741=440.8-4:8*).8
4+9*3744+*)<.9-&)42*+1&30*)'=&7(&)*8
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479-3).&.39-* 9-(*39:7=,:7)<&7&8
'1*3)81&2.(&3).3):&7(-.9*(9:7&189=1*8
Gold plated
dome

The prayer
chamber

-4:8*89-*
41=440

The Golden Temple in Amritsar (see pp106107)

Amalaka
Jagamohana
(assembly hall)

CHURCHES
#-4:,-(-:7(-&7(-
.9*(9:7*.3*7&1&
57*)&9*89-*&77.;&14+
:745*&382489
-7.89.&351&(*84+
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8:(-&89-*+,-&3
*247.&1 -:7(-4+"9
4-39-*;&3,*1.89
*' 

Kalasha
(pot finial)

Tower with
thin tapering
steeple
Pointed
arched
windows

Entrance

Afghan Memorial
Church, Mumbai

Pot finial

Conical
roof

Deul
(temple spire)
Metal
tiles

The Mukteshwar Temple 8**5 


+0'  *) ***+$'#) ++,)
*%+,)0*,)- %*' ))*:1%
%!& % %**$#0##/&,&24-&3&



Wooden
screen

Brass bells

Keralas temples*,*+&%+++,$%,)8**
5 - *+ %+ -&)$*%+,$*)&+% )
,#). +)&&*&*#&' %+ )*&$+#*+*&)+))&++
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Windows 0$(-1/(0$#
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mirrored room
,.-3,$-2 +1" +$5(2'13/$0!
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&$1" -!$1$$-2'0.3&'.32030 +-#( 

Laxmi Vilas in Vadodara (see p419),


built in the late 19th century

Mughal
dome

CIVIC ARCHITECTURE
-2'$,(# 2'"$-23072'$ 0(2(1'!$& -2.(-".0/.0 2$
$+$,$-21%0.,-#( -1+ ,(" 0"'(2$"230$(-2.30./$ -
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Sculpture,
127+$5'("'5 1 ,.0$$+$& -217-2'$1(1.%-#( -
Churchgate
Station, Mumbai
-#30./$ -20 #(2(.-1
End towers

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Colonnaded
verandahs03-

2'$+$-&2'.%
2'$!3(+#(-&

A dome

"0.5-12'$
"$-20 +
"' ,!$0

Gothic window, Mumbai


University

The entrance
porch ' 1 

! +".-7 !.4$

Prince of Wales Museum, Mumbai (see pp45051), inspired by Bijapurs Gol Gumbad (see p543)

THE COURTYARD
.,$12(" 0"'(2$"230$(--#( (1&.4$0-$#!7
/3!+(" -#/0(4 2$1/ "$1'$%0.-2/.02(.-
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Courtyard with wooden pillars and carved doors


     
        



Extended
VERNACULAR ARCHITECTURE
Walls 0$, #$
timber "21 1
30 +'.31$1(--#( 0$%+$"22'$ 5(2'120(/1.%
13//.021
".3-20714 0($#"+(, 2$ -#2'$ ! ,!..
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Tribal houses &!$%& !$&%&$
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Mountain homes$'&! $!'  


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Central Indian villages$&&*")&


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MATERIALS FOR CONSTRUCTION


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ceiling
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0 #$1' ' 0 1'20  -#.32'-#( 
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, 2$0( + -#(1$(2'$0 //+($##(0$"2+7.0
,(6$#5(2'".5#3-& -#120 5

Woven bamboo
panel for walls

Coconut palm
leaf roof

Thatched roof
made of grass

Half-cylinder
tiles

Terracotta
sun-dried bricks

Stone slabs, ideal


for walls



                

   


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Bagpipers of an army regiment at the Beating of the Retreat ceremony



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8/46

KEY
Tropical rainy region:
consistently high temperatures
and heavy summer rainfall.

9.3

4.4

9.6

8.6

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

4.2

193 19.3

14

Humid subtropical region: hot


summer followed by heavy
rainfall. Dry winter.

mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

Tropical savannah region: long,


dry season with high summer
temperatures. Mild winter.
Tropical and subtropical steppe
region: semi-arid. Low and erratic
rainfall leading to drought.

Giant cacti growing in the arid


Thar Desert, Jaisalmer

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This arid
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MUMBAI
C/F 32/90
30/86 32/90
25/77 25/77 25/77

Tropical desert region: high


summer and very low winter
temperatures. Scanty rainfall.

29/84
19/66

Mountain region: cold and dry


climate. Short summer.

9.6

Mountain region: cold, humid


winter. Short summer.

2.5

8.3

9.1

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

2.8

710

88

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

.VNCBJ

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36/97 35/95

Average
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maximum
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KOLKATA

33/91

C/F

27/81

36/97

32/90 32/90

25/77 26/79 24/75 27/81

19/66 21/70

21/70



Average
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14/57

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8.8

5.7

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7.7

8.8

3.9

6.5

8.1

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hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

6.8

211 31.2 24.9

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

42.7 301

160 13.8

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

Jan

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

Average daily
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Average
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21/70 23/73

26/79

18/64
10/50

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3.6

9.2

9.5

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hrs

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9-16)44%-1*%//*4206,)
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3.3

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mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

CHENNAI

$IFOOBJ

C/F

35/95 35/95
32/90
29/84
26/79 26/79 24/75
20/68

0 km
0 miles

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9.5

5.4

6.4

8.6

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

24.7 83.5 267 23.8


mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

250
250

                



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>+5/89@/<,C92+8.+=+<+7-2+8. 8.3+8 '8398 8 6+>/
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+=273< +8. >23= -98>38
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?/=>9,/+7+49<:938>90
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=><?116/ 38>9 + 7+==
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0 + 8 + > 3 -  A 2 9  0 / 6 >  2 /
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0+@9?</.?=637=&23==9
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<3>3=2 6+A= +8. 38=>3> A popular poster of political A+=038+66C</=>9</.
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heroes, past and present
TIMELINE
1885

8.3+8 +>398+6
981</==09?8./.

1911 &<+8=0/<90
-+:3>+6>9/623
+889?8-/.+>>2/
/623 ?<,+<

1910
1905

"+<>3>398
90/81+6

1920 98-99:/<+>398
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,C +8.23

1920

1942#?3>8.3+9@/7/8>

/+1?/+.9:>=>2/
"+53=>+8$/=96?>398
1930

1919+663+8A+6+

  

1940
19478.3++>>+38=

+127+==+-</

1913 $+,38.<+8+>2
&+19</A38= 9,/6"<3D/

1948+2+>7+
+8.23
+==+==38+>/.

1940?=637

8./:/8./8-/"+<>3>398
193032 3@36
3=9,/.3/8-/
79@/7/8>


  

1950
19523<=>
/8/<+6
6/->398A3>2
?83@/<=+6
=?00<+1/

&      % & ! $ *  !   

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09?8.+>398= 90 +
79./< 8 8+>398
= > + > /   A 3 > 2
+  . / 7 9 - < + > 3 - 
=/-?6+< :963>C +
=><981 38.?=><3+6
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8 / .  / - 9 8 9 7 C 
A3>2 98+6318
7 / 8 >  + =  > 2 /
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8
  238+
Nehru, with his daughter
38@+./. 89<>2
Indira and grandson Rajiv
/+=> 8.3+ +8.
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2?7363+>381 ./0/+> 98 >2/ 8.3+8
+<7C &23= ,<9?12> +,9?> 7?-2
8//./. 79./<83D+>398 90 8.3+=
7363>+<C 7+-238/ /2<? .3/. 38 +C

 +8.38
23=.+?12>/<8.3<+
+8.23 ,/-+7/ :<37/ 7383=>/< %2/
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:963-3/= +8. 38

 =2/ =><3::/.
>2/ 8.3+8 :<38-/= 90 >2/3< >3>6/= +8.
+,963=2/. >2/3< :<3@C :?<=/= +>/< 38
>2/ =+7/ C/+< =2/ +3./. +=>
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+816+./=2?>38
:/<-/3@381+
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=2/ ./-6+</. + %>+>/ 90 7/<1/8-C
?8./< A23-2 >2/ :</==
A+= -/8=9</. +8.
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98/. )2/8 >2/
1/8/<+6 /6/-
> 3 9 8 =  > 9 9 5
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=2/ A+= ./0
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 9 8 1 < / = =
: + < > C  6 9 = >
Rural women learning to read
during a literacy campaign
: 9 A / <  0 9 <

0<97"9<>?1?/=/<?6/
19628.3+

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+816+./=2

238+A+<

1960

1970
1965)+<

A3>2
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1980
19758.3<+

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1971"<38-/=69=/>3>6/= 19828.3+=/8.==-3/8>303-

+8.:<3@C:?<=/=

>/+7>98>+<->3-+



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  8.3<+ +8. >2/ 981</== A/</


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2/< +==+==38+>398 ,C 2/< %352 1?+<.=
38
  /< =98 $+43@ +8.23 >995
9@/<38+=C7:+>2CA+@/+8.,/1+8
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 + =/<3/= 90 -9+63>398 19@/<8


7/8>= 2+@/ ,//8 38 :9A/< A3>2 >2/
38.? 8+>398+63=> 2+<+>3C+ +8+>+
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: / 8 . / 8 - / 
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/7:69C7/8> Hyderabad
+8. :9@/<>C
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>9
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=29<>+1/=38>2/
 =8.3+89A2+=
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1992 /=><?->39890
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1961 9+63,/<+>/.

  

1998"-97/=>9
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1990
1998 7+<>C+%/8

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2007"<+>3,2+
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8.3+

DELHI &
THE NORTH

INTRODUCING DELHI & THE NORTH 6067


DELHI 6897
HARYANA & PUNJAB 98107
HIMACHAL PRADESH 108133
LADAKH, JAMMU & KASHMIR 134155



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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp69091 and pp72021

    



   


 
Jaipur House, near India Gate.
Tel (011) 2338 5378.  10am5pm
TueSun.  Mon & public hols.


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Triveni Kala Sangam Tansen Marg.
Tel (011) 2335 6139.  9:30am
5pm MonSat.  public hols. 
 Rabindra Bhavan Ferozeshah
Rd. Tel (011) 2338 1833. 
Kamani Auditorium Copernicus
Marg. Tel (011) 2338 8084.
Shri Ram Centre Safdar Hashmi
Marg. Tel (011) 2335 2410.  
National School of Drama Bhagwan
Das Rd. Tel (011) 2338 8249.
For Tickets see Entertainment p96

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Janpath. Tel (011) 2301 9272.
 10am5pm TueSun.
Mon & public hols.   extra
charges.   11:30am,
2:30pm, 4pm.  

Film shows, lectures,
presentations and special
exhibitions.


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First floor

Ancient and Medieval Sculpture


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Buddhist Art
Indian Miniatures

STAR EXHIBITS

 Dara Shikohs
Marriage Procession

 Nataraja
 Kubera
 Illuminated Koran

Decorative Arts
Manuscripts and Wall Paintings
Central Asian Antiquities
Textiles, Arms and Armour,
Musical Instruments
Coins and Indian Scripts
Jewellery
Wood carvings

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Teen Murti Marg. Tel (011) 2301
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The Ashokan Pillar, rising above the ruins of Feroze Shah Kotla

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Gandhi National Museum

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Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg.  daily.

Gandhis samadhi at Rajghat

  
Mahatma Gandhi Rd.  daily.
Prayer meetings 5pm Fri.
Gandhi National Museum
Tel (011) 2332 8310.  TueSun.
 public hols. Film shows 45pm
Sat & Sun.

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THE BAZAARS OF OLD DELHI


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Indian spices on sale in Khari
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Between Nicholson Rd, Ramlal
Chandok Marg & Church Rd.
St Jamess Church Lothian Rd.
Tel (011) 2386 0873.  daily.
 English: 9am Sun.

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Statues of former viceroys around the Coronation Memorial

 
 

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The impressive yellow and white edifice of St Jamess Church

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp69091 and pp72021




    

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Chanakyapuri. Tel (011) 2688 0804.
 TueSun.  public hols.
 extra for train rides. 

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A well-stocked shop selling


imported foodstuffs at INA Market

  
Aurobindo Marg. Shops  TueSun.

Aurobindo Marg. Tel (011) 2301


7293.  daily.   extra charges
for video photography. 

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A late 19th-century steam engine at the National Rail Museum

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The double-storeyed madrasa (college) at Hauz Khas

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp69091 and pp72021

An arched window with a carved


stone jali, Khirkee Mosque

  
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Delhi-Gurgaon Rd.  daily. 
Conservation Assistants Office,
(011) 2664 3856.    
 Phoolwalon ki Sair (early Oct).

  


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Mehrauli, Delhi-Gurgaon Rd.
 7am6pm, 79:30pm daily.

 Qutb Festival (Oct/Nov).

  
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+76<:1>16/<70)>-)/)<-?)A
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*=:1-,16Ghiyasuddins
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DIRECTORY
ANTIQUES,
JEWELLERY AND
SILVER
Bharanys
Sundar Nagar Market.

FabIndia

Tibet House

PVR Priya

Greater Kailash I,
N-Block Market.
Tel (011) 2621 2183.

Lodi Rd.
Tel (011) 2461 1515.

Basant Lok,

Tulsi

Tel (011) 2614 0048.

Santushti.
Tel (011) 2687 0339.

Shri Ram Centre

Forest Essentials

Tel (011) 2435 8528.

46-B, Khan Market.


Tel (011) 4175 7057.

Cooke & Kelvy

The Shop

Janpath.

Connaught Place.
Tel (011) 2374 6050.

Tel (011) 2372 1081.

Crafts Museum
Shop
Pragati Maidan.
Tel (011) 2337 1269.

Shyam Ahuja
Santushti.
Tel (011) 2467 0112.

ENTERTAINMENT
VENUES
India Habitat
Centre
Lodi Rd.
Tel (011) 2468 2222.

Vasant Vihar.

Safdar Hashmi Marg.


Tel (011) 2371 4307.

Siri Fort
Complex
Asian Village Complex.
Tel (011) 2649 3370.

Trade Fair
Authority of India

HANDICRAFTS
AND GIFTS

India International
Centre

Oberoi Hotel.

Da Milano

Tel (011) 2337 1540.

Tel (011) 2436 3030.

Connaught Place.
Tel (011) 2341 5490.

40, Lodi Estate,


Max Mueller Marg.
Tel (011) 2461 9431.

Indian Council for


Cultural Relations

205, Tansen Marg.

Ravissant

TEXTILES, SHAWLS
AND CARPETS
Abraham &
Thakore
31, Lodi Colony Main Mkt.
Tel (011) 2460 3455.

Good Earth
Santushti.
Mehrauli.
Tel (011) 2685 1757.

Gulab Singh Johri


Mal

Azad Bhavan,
IP Estate.
Tel (011) 2337 9309.

Kamani Auditorium
Copernicus Marg.
Tel (011) 2338 8084.

Khan Market.

Dariba Kalan,
Chandni Chowk.
Tel (011) 2327 1345.

Tel (011) 2460 3423.

Kamala

The Carpet Cellar

Rajiv Gandhi Handicrafts


Bhavan, Baba Kharak
Singh Marg.
Tel (011) 2374 3322.

National School of
Drama

Anokhi

1 Anand Lok.
Tel (011) 2626 1777.

Cottage Industries

Mittal Tea House

Janpath.

8-A, Lodi Colony Mkt.


Tel (011) 2461 5709.

Tel (011) 2332 0439.

Bhawalpur House.
Tel (011) 2338 9402.

PVR Anupam
Community Centre,
Saket.
Tel (011) 2686 5999.

Pragati Maidan.

Triveni Kala
Sangam
Tel (011) 2371 8833.

EXHIBITIONS
Art Heritage
Triveni Kala Sangam.
Tel (011) 2371 9470.

National Gallery of
Modern Art
Jaipur House,
India Gate.
Tel (011) 2338 2835.

National Museum
Janpath.
Tel (011) 2301 9272.

                



   

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Skilled swordsmanship at the


Hola Mohalla festivities

Hola Mohalla ! !

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The splendid Durbar Hall at the Qila Mubarak, Patiala

 


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Patiala district. 63 km (39 miles) SW
,<+3.= +8.,<312>6C
of Chandigarh.  269,000. 
/7,<93./</.0+,<3-
Basant (Feb).  MonSat.
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A typical phulkari
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 &2/63@/6C,+D++<+<9?8. Hand-embroidered jutties on sale in


Patialas bazaar
>2/09<>900/<=>2/-3>C=
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p692 and p722

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+>398+6 8=>3>?>/90%:9<>=
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 Durbar Hall Museum
 TueSun.  with permission. 
 Old Moti Bagh Palace
 TueSun 

   
Fatehgarh Sahib district. 55 km (34
miles) W of Chandigarh.  31,000.

Punjab Tourism, (01763)
22 9170. Urs at Rauza Sharif
(Aug), Shaheedi Jor Mela (Dec).

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Rauza Sharif, Sahaikh Ahmad Faruqi Sirhindis dargah in Sirhind
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96+92+66+0/=>3@+6
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SIKHISM

A mid-19th-century painting of
Guru Nanak with his disciples

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! 



        &   

! $ & 


 

Amritsar district. 217 km (135 miles)
NW of Chandigarh.  1,000,000.
 Palace Hotel opp railway station,
(0183) 240 2452.  12 km (8
miles) NW of city centre. 
 Guru Parab (Nov).

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Kapurthala district. 165 km (103
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 TueSun. 
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p692 and p722

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View of the Golden Temple complex, with the central shrine and main entrance

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Christ Church
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Contact caretaker if church is closed.

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The interior of the Gaiety Theatre, a focal point of Shimlas cultural life

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

 State Museum
Chaura Maidan. Tel (0177) 280 5044.
 TueSun.  public hols.


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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Shimla district. 375 km (233
miles) N of Delhi.  142,200.
21 km (13 miles) SE of Shimla.
  HP Tourism, The
Mall, (0177) 265 8302. Sipi
Fair (May). Travel permits are
required for some areas of Himachal (see p115). Contact Deputy
Commissioner, (0177) 265 3535.

 Viceregal Lodge
The Mall. Tel (0177) 283 1375.
 daily. 

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Jakhu Hill.  daily.

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The stately Viceregal Lodge, set amid manicured lawns

SHIMLA CITY CENTRE

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

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For permission contact: Divisional
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Corporation. Tel (0177) 265 2911. 
 Himalayan Nature Park
Kufri.  daily. 


 
Solan district. 45 km (28 miles) SE of
Shimla.   Hotel Chail Palace,
(01792) 248 141.

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      # $    % 

 
Solan district. 77 km (48 miles) S of
Shimla.  5,000. 

&0-+47;-;<0144;<)<176<7<0-
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A temple on Hatu Peak, a days hike
65-6<:-;<:1+<176;1587;-,*A
from Narkanda
<0-)=<07:1<1-;0)>-8:->-6<-,
<0-74,<7?6.:75*-16/<)3-6
7>-:*A+76+:-<-57,-:6

;<:=+<=:-;;):-;=4<74,
Shimla district. 64 km (40 miles) N of .);0176-,*=14,16/;?1<0/)*4-
:77.;)6,?77,-6*)4+761-;
Shimla. 
:-5)1616<)+<76<0-Upper)6,
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Lower Malls<0-<?75)16

5
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HILL STATIONS
A<0-4)<- <0+-6<=:A?0-6<0-:1<1;00),+76;741,)<-,
<0-1::=4-166,1).)5141-;*-/)6<7+75-7>-:.:75:1<)16
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;-<<4-5-6<;?-:--;<)*41;0-,16<0-47?-:0144:)6/-;);
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+0=:+0-;07;81<)4;8):3;
Kennedys Cottage, by Captain J ?1<0*)6,;<)6,;)6,)5)16
;<:--<16>):1)*4A367?6);
Luard, Shimla, 1822
&0- )447):,16/;+0774;
?1<0-@+-44-6<<-)+016/.)+141<1-;?-:-)4;7;-<=8.7:
+014,:-6?07?-:-=6)*4-<7/7*)+3<7;<=,A166/4)6,



FESTIVALS OF
HIMACHAL PRADESH
Shivratri !
)6,1 7+)4,-1<1-;):-
+)::1-,,7?6.:75<0-
;=::7=6,16/0144;76
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Summer Festival

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Manimahesh Yatra

 $ 0):57=:&0814/:15)/-<7<0-;)+:-,
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Dussehra  #=44=
"  
Lavi Fair % $)58=:
#:7,=+<;.:75:-57<-
&1*-<)6,),)30?-:-
76+-*):<-:-,?1<0<07;-
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'6=<;)6,;0)?4;
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Renuka Fair % !)0)6
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/)<0-:)<<0-;07:-;7.<0-
$-6=3) )3-<7+-4-*:)<-
<0-+7584-<1767.<0-
0):>-;<)<<01;.)1:

Colourful Kinnauri shawls on


sale at the Lavi Fair, Rampur



        $    

" $ 

 
    
$./935;4:'/45;99:':+=/:./:9<'9:<'8/+:>5,
:+88'/495,,+89'=/*+8'4-+5,:8+19,853
+'9>54+*'>./1+9:5=++1254-85;:+9:
25=+8'2:/:;*+9:8'/29=/4*:.85;-.,58+9:95,
5'1*+5*'8 ,/- *,'4*6/4+
A cone from
a deodar tree =./2+9:++6+8)2/3(92+'*:5,25=+89:8+=4
'26/4+3+'*5=9'(5<+:.+:8++2/4+$.+
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9+<+8'2656;2'8:8+19$.+(+9:9+'954,58:8+11/4-/9
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#+6:+3(+8'4* ):5(+8',:+8:.+3549554;8/4-:.+
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)*."$)"-
13"%&4)

LOCATOR MAP
Area shown below
0 km

20

0 miles

20

      
#'' )"$)" &( ($' ,*/. ,*-- -,*&2
. ,,$).*.# ( *1-.,$/)-. +- ).
' -.*.# ),#,--1$.#0$ 1-*!.# $,
)%'+ &-) )-..# -(''.*1)*!
# .,*)) . 2,*.*#(
Duration: 5 days
Altitude: 4,350 m (14,272 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate to tough
b

KEY

(FQBOH(PI
 N GU

$IBNCB
#IBSNPVS

The Pin Valley Trek


Naggar to Jari
Manali to Beas Kund
Dharamsala to Macchetar

,BJMBTI
 N GU

#FBT
,VOE

.BDDIFUBS
*OESBIBS1BTT
 N GU

,VBSTJ

%IBSBNLPU

National highway

3PIUBOH1BTT
 N GU

5SJVOE
%IBSBNTBMB

4PMBOH

)BOVNBO5JCCB
 N GU

b
b

1BMDIBO
.BOBMJ

/BHHBS

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$IBOEFSLIBOJ1BTT
 N GU

Major road
Minor road

.BMBOB
+BSJ

,VMMV

.BOJLBSBO
b
b

1VMHB

Peak


3/2+85;4*:8/6:5:.+-2')/'22'1+5,
+'9;4*2+'*96'9::.+91/9:':/54':
#52'4-'4*5<+8-2')/'2358'/4+:5:.+2'1+
9;885;4*+*(>945=)2'*6+'19

/)

Starting at Palchan near Manali' 13

#FB

BT

#F

Pass

.BOEJ

Duration: 3 days
Altitude: 3,980 m (13,058 ft)
Level of difficulty: easy

4B

UM
#JMBTQVS VK

   
#$- &( ($' ., &,*-- -.# 
#),&#)$--*!! ,$)"!$) 0$ 1-*!
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' -+-..# $-*'. ')0$''" 9++
6
.* ).,$$),0.$'' 2
Duration: 4 days
Altitude: 3,500 m (11,483 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate

For additional map symbols see back flap

         ! "    # 



PRACTICAL TIPS

  



.,.$)".)$&,)
!(*/-!*,$.-#*.-+,$)"-
.# 
&(($' 
+.#"* -*0 ,.# $)
,0.$--.*.# *'
 - ,., "$*)*!.# 
 /.$!/'$)'' 2.
)-.$&&$( &(
 ($' -!,*(.# ($)
,*# .3
Duration: 7 days
Altitude: 5,319 m (17,451 ft)
Level of difficulty: tough

,B[B
b

4Q
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b

.JLLJN
4BOHBN

1B
SW

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1JO
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b

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#SJEHF
b

1JO1BSWBUJ1BTT
 N GU

%BOLBS

.VE

Be prepared: Acclimatization is
essential for areas over 3,000 m
(9,843 ft). See p767 for tips on
altitude sickness. Guides are needed as maps are insufficient for safe
passage across glaciers. For details
on trekking see p751.
On the trek: Drink plenty of
water. Carry a first aid kit and
cooking fuel. Never burn wood,
which is a scarce resource. Put out
all fires properly, leaving no
burning embers. Do not litter, and
carry your rubbish back with you.
Permits: Foreign visitors require
travel permits for parts of Spiti and
Kinnaur, obtainable from the
district or subdivisional
magistrates offices in Shimla (see
p111), Rekong Peo (see p119),
Kaza and Kullu (see p126). The
offices at Kaza, (01906) 222 302
and Rekong Peo, (01789) 222 253
are the most efficient. For general
details see p758.
Equipment hire & operators:
The Institute of Mountaineering
and Allied Sports in Manali
(01902) 252 342, and Yeti
Trekking in McLeodganj (01892)
221 887, organize treks. The
Regional Mountaineering Centre in
McLeodganj, (01892) 221 787,
offers mountaineering courses. In
Manali, Himalayan Adventurers,
(01902) 252 365, is a reputable
rafting agency, the Himalayan
Institute of Adventure Sports,
(01902) 253 050, offers paragliding, and Himalayan Journeys,
(01902) 252 365, offers mountain
biking. See also p755.
Caution: Trekkers have gone missing in Parvati Valley. It is advisable
to trek in groups and to take an
experienced guide along.

OTHER ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES


/3').'2!8'*+9..'99+<+8'26+'19
5<+8  3 ,:9;/:'(2+,58
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/22/4-/4'4-8'/3'2'>'45;84+>9
- + /4'4'2/5,,+8935;4:'/4
Climbing a rock
face, Tirthan Valley
(/1/4-4+'8:.+"5.:'4-!'99

Renuka Lake, venue of the Renuka


Fair held in November

  
Sirmaur district. 100 km (62 miles) S
of Shimla.  Renuka Fair (Nov).

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Environs

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Lake=.59+9.58+2/4+:8')+9
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9.'6+5,.+8(5*>::.+,'8
+4*5,:.+2'1+/9'93'22
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5,2/549/3'2'>'4(2')1
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        "     

" 

 
 
  
"+(3$/$&(&706(03/(&203/(:2)6+(
$037475+$+4.,1*5+,0$.$/,29(5,65
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'(,6;216+(623)/2242)6+()(7'$/&+,()5
+20(65(/$%24$6(/$;276&215,5652)$5(4,(5
2)&2746;$4'5&211(&6('%;%($76,)7/*$6(9$;5
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tiger
0;4,$')24052)6+(*2''(55$/,,5+275(',1
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$552&,$6('9,6++,5624,&$/(8(165'$6,1*626+(6+&(1674;
9+,/(3$4652),6$4($4271' ;($452/'
The pavilion in the spacious
gardens of Rampurs palace

  
The Ram
Mandir,5

Shimla district. 130 km (81 miles)


NE of Shimla.   daily.
 Lavi Fair (Nov).

1&(216+(0$,164$'(4276(
%(69((11',$$1'",%(6
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" #
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#*'(', *!# &&(*+&,
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Slate roofs

 
Shimla district. 198 km (123 miles)
NE of Shimla.   daily. 
Dussehra (Sep/Oct).

(4&+('+,*+$%28(6+(/()6
%$1.2)6+(!$6/7-!$4$+$1
9$521&(6+(5700(44(5,
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8$//(;9,6+6+(69,13($.52)
75+7,5+7$1'6+(+2/;
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!$4$+$150256,16(4(56,1*
5,*+6,56+(53(&6$&7/$4629(4
6(03/(Bhimakali6$/52+$5
$5+2461$674(64$,//($',1*62$
3+($5$164;"+(0$1;
3+($5$165+275('+(4(,1&/7'(
6+(021$/$1'6+(1($4(:6,1&6
#(56(41,0$/$;$164$*23$1

Narasimha
Temple

STAR FEATURES

 Carved Balconies

&$'*,$1'*,
%,$''*,, &,*&
'(&+!&,', !*+,'-*,1*

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

 Tower Shrines
 Silver Doors

         

   ! 

!
 -((*%'+,+,'*1', 
*&'.,,%($!+*!&1
'.* &!&$'&!+/!, 
0)-!+!,$1*.(&$+



VISITORS CHECKLIST
 daily.   Janmashtami
(Jul/Aug), Dussehra (Sep/Oct).
Obligatory to wear the saffron
cap, available outside. Shoes and
leather objects not allowed.

 " 
 &!&'/*'&, *! ,/+
, %!&,%($-&,!$!,/+%
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of stone and
timber

 
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Carved tiger
statue

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Temple at Sungra Maheshwar 3

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NG

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+

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0 km
0 miles

5
5

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!:8;4-5;:'254-'2/::2+96;8(+25=
:.+85'*9)+4/)',5;8/9:.+,/89:
/4.'(/:+*</22'-+/4/44';8".+
/83'"+362+*+*/)':+*:5'25)'2
35:.+8-5**+999:'4*95;:'3/*
:.+92':+855,:569

The Satluj Gorge at Tranda 2

853:.+85'*:.+8+'8+9:8/1/4-
</+=95,9.++885)1='229
,'22/4- 3
 ,::5:.+
8/<+84:.+5:.+89/*+)2/,,9
5,+7;'23'-4/:;*++4)259+
:.+!':2;0/4'4'885=
/36+4+:8'(2+-58-+

  
Kinnaur district. 244 km (152 miles)
NE from Shimla to Rekong Peo. 
19,250.   daily.  Sazi (Jan).
Travel permits are required for parts
of Kinnaur. Contact the Subdivisional
Magistrates office in Rekong Peo,
(01786) 222 253. For details see p115.

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+'9:+84)584+85,/3').'2
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View of the Kinner Kailash on a clear winter day

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

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   ! 



TIPS FOR DRIVERS


KEY
Sapni 4

Tour route

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River

Sangla 6

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Chitkul 7


NG
RA

3H

TI+
H


AD

2O
K

Road

Length: 90 km (56 miles).


Getting around: The tour begins
at Kafour village. The steep road is
rough and winding, and is best
negotiated with a 4-wheel drive.
Sangla and Chitkul villages offer
places to stay and eat, as well as a
few shops with basic provisions.

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Young Buddhist monks in a monastery, Kinnaur

:.)+4:;8?



        %   

! # % 

  

 
Kangra district. 222 km (728 miles)
NW of Shimla.  9,200.  Gaggal,
10 km (6 miles) N of Kangra town.
 Joginder Nagar and Una. 

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A cluster of village houses with sloping roofs in Mandi
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Environs
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Mandi district. 156 km (97 miles) N of )0-1/0<7.  5


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Shimla.  26,900.  Joginder Nagar, 35
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53 km (33 miles) NW of Mandi, then
 %0->)44-A,-:1>-;1<;6)5-
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The square-shaped Rewalsar Lake resting in the hollow of a mountain spur


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

         " #    $ 

Temple 35 514-;

The towering spire of Brajeshwari


Devi Temple in Kangra town

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Terraced paddy fields in the Kangra Valley

PAHARI MINIATURE PAINTINGS


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Kangra miniature,1788, depicting Krishna
)6,1)55= =:8=:0)5*))6,=44=
killing the serpent-demon, Kaliya



        "     

" 

  

Kangra district. 238 km (148 miles)
NW of Shimla.  19,100.

Gaggal, 11 km (7 miles) S of town


centre. Pathankot, 80 km (50
miles) NW of Dharamsala, then bus or
taxi.  HP Tourism, McLeodganj
(01892) 221 205.  daily. 
Summer Festival (May), Bodh Festival
(Oct/Nov).

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Tibetan nuns in their red robes, a common sight in Dharamsala

Tsuglagkhang Temple

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 Museum of Kangra Art
Main Rd, Dharamsala. Tel (01892)
224 214.  TueSun.
 Library of Tibetan Works

and Archives
Gangchen Kyishong, McLeodganj
Rd.  MonFri.
 St-John-in-the-Wilderness
 daily.  11am Sun.

Environs

The brightly-painted faade of Namgyal Monastery, McLeodganj


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

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RELIGION AND CULTURE


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See also features on Buddhist Iconography (p141) and In the Buddhas Footsteps (p221).



        %   

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Chamba district. 378 km (235 miles)
NW of Shimla.  20,300.  
daily.  Sui (Apr), Minjar (Jul/Aug).
Travel permits Contact the Deputy
Commissioner, (01899) 225 371. For
details see p758.

%01;<7?6?);+07;-6);<0-
+)81<)47.<0-.7:5-:
8:16+-4A;<)<-7.0)5*)16
<0-
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$)014&):5)657>-,0-:-
.:750):57=:-6)5-,1<
0)5*)).<-:01;.)>7=:1<-
Sylverton, one of the many colonial houses in Dalhousie
,)=/0<-:0)58)>)<1?07
4-/-6,;)A;;)+:1.1+-,0-:;-4.
Environs
<78:7>1,-?)<-:.7:<0-

;+-61+:7),<0:7=/0,-6;-
8):+0-,+1<A=:16/<0-$=1
Chamba district. 336 km (209 miles)
.7:-;<;7.816-,-7,):7)3
.-;<1>)4?75-6)6,+014,:-6
NW of Shimla.  7,400.  
07:;-+0-;<6=<)6,
;16/0-:8:)1;-;16<0-<7?6;
Geetanjali Hotel, near bus stand,
:07,7,-6,:764-),;<7<0-
5)6A<-584-;
(01899) 242 136.  daily. 
Kalatope Wildlife Sanctuary
*:1,/-7>-:<0-#)>1:1>-:
Summer Festival (Jun).
)*7=<35514-;-);<7.
4-),;=8<7<0-<7?6;1<=)<-,
)407=;1-'1<08:17:
76<0-4-,/-7.)57=6<)16
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4)6-;!:1/16)44A+76+-1>-,); *7=< 35 
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):7=6,1<):-)
878=4)<176:)<0-:<0)6);)
6=5*-:7.1587;16/
)407=;1-1;
Khajjiar;1<=)<-,)<
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Silver mask of
Parvati, Chamba <0-74,Akhand
)0-1/0<7. 

5
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Chandi Palace8):<7.
 .<%01;;)=+-:
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Kalatope
Wildlife
Sanctuary
0)5*);<7?-:16/;<76-
+-6<:)48):<7.<7?6?0-:-)
For permission contact: Forest Depart<-584-;):-;75-7.<0-.16-;<
;+0774+0=:+0)6,<0-87;<
ment, Chamba. Tel (01899) 222 639.
16<0-:-/176%0-57;<
7..1+-):-;1<=)<-,D7..-:;
;8-+<)+=4):>1-?;7.<0-"1:
")62)4#)6/-:75)6,01
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;<)16-,/4);;?16,7?;)6,
;)6,;<76-):+0-;
Images of deities on the walls of Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Chamba


  

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

         " #    $ 



0-:-<78):<1+18)<-16<0-
)66=)4 )615)0-;0()<:)
  %0-5)1657<7:
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");;

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Hillsides around Chamba ablaze with the colours of autumn
35 514-;)?)A16<0-
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=,014)4):/-<:1*=<):A7.<0- 0)=4),0): #)6/-<7<0-
 <0)<+758:1;-<0-
)6/:)&)44-A<7..-:;<0-
#)>1:1>-:0):57=:;5)16
78<1767.)476/-:?)43<7<0-
Lakshmi Narayan Temple
)<<:)+<1761;<0-.);+16)<16/
+7584-@<7<0-?-;<7.<0-
Chaurasi41<-:)44AC1/0<A
=44=&)44-A);?-447?6
0)=/)6!.<0-;-<0:--):-
7=:E Temple+7584-@*=14< <0-+7=:;-7.<0-#)>176<0-
,-,1+)<-,<7&1;06=)6,<0:-- 16<0-
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$)014&):5)6<70767=:<0-
<7$01>)%0-?01<-5):*4-
Temple?1<01<;-@9=1;1<-
15)/-7.)3;051 ):)A)616 ;)16<;?07>1;1<-,
*:76B-15)/-7.$0)3<1->1
<0-5)16<-584-?);*:7=/0< 0):57=:%0-5)27:;0:16-; 1;)4;7?7:<0);<78
.:75-6<:)46,1)16<0-
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+-6<=:A%0-+):>-,8)6-4;76 )6-;0))6,<0-47+)4,-1<1-;
<0-<-584-?)44;144=;<:)<-
):3)6)->1)6,)615)0-;0
5A<0747/1+)4;+-6-;);?-44); %0-16<:1+)<-?77,-6+):>16/;
76<0-<-584-416<-4;)6,<0-
)615)4)6,.47:)457<1.;
15)/-;7.<0-5)16,-1<1-;):-
 !<0-:<-584-;16+4=,-<0-
Madho Rai Temple6-):<0-
7=<;<)6,16/)6,1<1;;)1,<0)<
8)4)+-?1<0)*:76B-15)/-7. <0-;+=48<7:;0)6,;?-:-+=<
:1;06))6,.=:<0-:=8<0-
7..<78:->-6<015.:75:-841
Chamunda Temple
+)<16/;=+0:-5):3)*4-?7:3
/4158;-7.0)5*);:1+0
0-:1<)/-+)6*-;--6)<<0-
Environs
Bhuri Singh Museum;-<=816 $1<=)<-,)<)0-1/0<7. 
5

*A<0-316/7.0)5*))<  .<Manimahesh Lake
<0-<15-1;:):-+744-+<1767. 35 514-;.:75
5161)<=:-8)16<16/;.7:5-,<0- 0):57=:1;<0-):-);57;<
6=+4-=;7.<0-5=;-=5
;)+:-,4)3-);1<;074A?)<-:;
%7,)A1<0);).16-+744-+<176
):-*-41->-,<7+4-)6;-)44;16;
7.")0):18)16<16/; 
Well-preserved 10th-century
6=/=;< $-8<-5*-:
5=:)4;16;+:1*-,.7=6<)16
<07=;)6,;7.814/:15;+76>-:/- temples at Bharmour
;4)*;+):>-,;<76-8)6-4;)6,
7<0-:):<1.)+<;;=+0);0)5*)
CHAMBA RUMALS
 5-<)45);3;+788-:
0)5*)  -@9=1;1<-4A-5*:71,-:-,0)6,3-:+01-.;7:
84)<-;)6,;14>-:2-?-44-:A
+7>-:4-<;/-6-:)44A;9=):-16;0)8-?-:-=;-,8:15):14A<7
 Bhuri Singh Museum
?:)8/1.<;-1<0-:.7:<-584-7..-:16/;7:.7:+-:-5761)4
S of Chaughan. Tel (01899) 222
-@+0)6/-;,=:16/?-,,16/:1<=)4;<<15-;<0-A)4;7
590.  TueSun.
.7:5-,<0-+)6781-;,:)8-,
)*7>-,-1<1-;16<-584-;")4-
+747=:;;143<0:-),),7=*4-
;1,-,;)<16;<1<+0)6,)6

=6*4-)+0-,5=;416*);-?-:-<0-
.:)5-?7:3?1<016?01+016<:1+)<-
Chamba district. 64 km (40 miles)
+7587;1<176;16;81:-,*A,-41+)<-
SE of Chamba.   Manimahesh
")0):15161)<=:-;?-:-+:-)<-,
Yatra (Aug/Sep).
!:1/16)44A<0-?7:37.<0-4),1-;
7.<0-+7=:<<0-<0-5-;?-:-
%0-0):57=::-/176075-
:-41/17=;16<-:;8-:;-,?1<0)615)4
4)6,7.<0-;-51675),1+
)6,84)6<57<1.;)6,-6+47;-,
;0--80-:,16/),,1;)6,<0-
Hand-embroidered
?1<016.47:)4*7:,-:;
Chamba rumal
.1:;<+)81<)47.<0-0)5*)
:=4-:;;8:-),;)+:7;;);<--8

  



 

     '    " # % ' 

>2/Jagannathi Devi Temple+>


/526357 736/=>9>2/
89<>2+8.>2/Vishnu Temple
+>+C+< 57736/=>9
>2/A/=>'2/2?1/:C<+73.+6
Basheshwar Mahadev Temple

Brightly coloured tiger guarding the Jagannathi Devi Temple, Kullu

  

+>+4+?<+ 57736/=>9
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2312=>+00A23-2:/<39.3-+66C
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+=+.3@38/,6/==381/@/8
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&23@+6381+38>2/=+8->?7
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?66?)+66/C?=?+66CA/+<>2/
.3=>38->3@/?66?+=8?1
Kullu district. 240 km (149 miles) N
A9966/8-+:A3>2+-969?<0?6
of Shimla.  18,300.  Bhuntar,
?:>?<8/.06+:'2/A97/8
10 km (6 miles) S of Kullu town. 
A/+@/>23-5=2+A6=A3>2
 HP Tourism, near Maidan,
=><353811/97/><3-./=318=98
(01902) 222 349.  Dussehra
>2/3<,9<./<=+8.0/A@3=3>9<=
(Sep/Oct). Travel permits Contact
-+8</=3=>+-;?3<381>2/=/
Deputy Commisioner, (01902) 222 727.
+>><+->3@/:<9.?->=89A+
For more details see p115.
069?<3=238169-+638.?=><C
;?+66C+>><+->3@/+</>2/
'2/?66?)+66/C38-/8><+6
@366+1/29?=/=>2/3<=6+>/
Environs
37+-2+6$<+./=2A+>/</.
<990=<3=381+,9@/1<//8
,C>2//+=<3@/<2+=6981
Jalori Pass+,9?>
57
7/+.9A= Kullu>2/.3=><3->
,//8+=3>/90
2/+.;?+<>/<=
736/==9?>290?66?98>2/
2?7+82+,3>+
+8.>2/6+<1/=>
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>3988+8-3/8>
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&+8=5<3>>/B>=3>3=
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A+65=>2<9?12./8=/2312
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+6>3>?./9+509</=>=+8.
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/+= '2/>9A8= 7/+.9A= '2/03<=>A+6519/=
2+,3>+,6/A9<6.G
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Typical geometric pattern on
F+8+:>
>2/ >2-/8>?<C 1<+.3/8>=>9>2/>+<890
./=-<3:>398A2/8 the border of a Kullu shawl Raghunath
&+<C96=+<57 736/=
Temple
98/-97:+</=
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8/312,9?<38123666/+.=>9>2/
>2/6?=203/6.=+8.+::6/
A29=/<3-26C+.9<8/.37+1/= :3->?</=;?/<?38=90+09<>
9<-2+<.=90>23=
57

6/+.>2/:<9-/==398=+>>2/
9--?:3/.,C>2/?<52+=38
736/6981@+66/CA3>2>2/
?==/2<+0/=>3@+66=9A9<>2 >2/ >2-/8>?<C
./=96+>//B:+8=/90 +2+?6
 A23-23==/:+<+>/. /B:69<3813=>2/52+<+
0<973>,C>2/$3<$+84+6%+81/ +D++<+>>2/89<>2/<8
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3=>2/6+<1/1<//89:/8
0+79?=?==/2<+0/=>3@+6
(8635/<3>3=2,?36>2366
=:+-/-+66/.Dhalpur
MaidanA2/</>2/
=>+>398=38>2/37+6+C+=
?66?</7+38/.?8589A8>9
-969?<0?6?==/2<+
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0/=>3@3>3/=>+5/:6+-/
E.3=-9@/</.G38>2/ 
=,C
8?7,/<90>/7:6/=
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-+<@381=+8.37:</==3@/
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2366=3./=-9@/</.A3>2
@3-383>C90?66?>9A8F
7+<34?+8+:6+8>= 
+=,C3>=1/8>6/,/+?>C >2/Vaishno Devi Cave
Shrine3=57 
=?:/<,79?8>+38@3=>+=+8.
736/=>9>2/89<>2/+=> A waterfall in Kullu Valley
+73+,6/:/9:6/'2/7/890
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

  !    

 $ %    & 



 
 

  

><+./+8.=/@/<+609</318
@3=3>9<=2+@/198/73==3810<97

>2/+</+>3=+.@3=+,6/>9
>+5/1?3./=+8.:9<>/<=+@+36 Kullu district. 205 km (127 miles) N of
+,6/0<97"+11+< 
Shimla, (via Jalori Pass). Entry points:
+8. Manikaran09<></5=38
Saing, Gushani.  Shamchi, 15 km
>23=</1398
(9 miles) S of Kullu, then jeep.  For
 '2/7+38=/>>6/7/8>38>2/ bookings & permits contact Director,
$+<@+>3)+66/C3=!+835+<+8
GHNP, Shamchi, (01902) 265 320. 
0+79?=09<3>=29>=:<381=>
3=+6=9>2/=>+<>381:938>09<+ '2/1</+>37+6+C+8 "+>398+6
$+<5-9@/<381+8+</+90
8?7,/<90></5=
=;57  =;736/=<+81/=
 838>/</=>3816/1/8.
/B:6+38=>2/9<3138=90>2/29> 38+6>3>?./0<97 

7 
0>>9

7

0>+8.
=:<381==/<:/8>=>96/>2/
+,?>=>2/-96../=/<></139890
/+<<381=90$+<@+>3>2/
Hot springs in Manikaran, a
$38)+66/C"+>398+6
-98=9<>90 9<.&23@++8.
popular pilgrim spot
$+<5 '2/
.3=+::/+</.A3>2>2/7
@+<3/>C90069<++8.
38>9+.//:,?<<9A#8
A3>8/==381&23@+=>/<<3
0+?8+09?8.2/</

,6/+81/<>2/=8+5/
</:</=/8>=>2//8>3</
Kullu district. 180 km (112 miles)
A+=>99>/<<303/.>9
*/=>/<837+6+C+=@+=>
NE of Shimla (via Jalori Pass). 
<+81/90=?,><9:3-+6=:/-3/=
-97/9?>903>=296/
 HP Tourism, near Maidan, Kullu,
+6981A3>2+6:38/1<+==6+8.=
,?>7+8+1/.>9=89<>
(01902) 222 349.
+</-9@/</.A3>2/./6
>2//+<<381=9?>
Monal pheasant A/3==+8.9+509</=>=
>2<9?12>2//+<>2
'2/=-/83-$+<@+>3)+66/C
!+77+6=38-6?./>2/
>2?=-</+>381@/8>=
A3>23>=1<//8>/<<+-/.<3-/
37+6+C+8>+2<7?=5.//<
0<97A23-2>2/29>=:<381=
03/6.=+8.+::6/9<-2+<.=
+8.>2//6?=3@/=89A6/9:+<.
,?,,6/9?>,+>22/</3=
.<+A=+838-</+=3818?7,/<
=+3.>9,/199.09<>2/,9.C 7981>2/

9..=:/-3/=90
90@3=3>9<=9A/@/<,/-+?=/ +8.>2/=9?6+8.69-+6:/9
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90366/1+67+<34?+8+-?6>3@+>398 :6/=97/>37/=,936<3-/38>2/ 538.=90:2/+=+8>
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8?7,/<90></55381><+36=
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</-/8>C/+<=1+38/.89>9<3/>C 8/B>>9+&3521?<.A+<+3=
D98/900/<=+89::9<>?83>C>9
+6A+C=>2<981/.A3>2=+.2?= /B:69</>2/:+<5
+=+-/8></09<>2/8+<-9>3-=


 

GATHERING OF THE GODS


?66?-/6/,<+>/=>2/0/=>3@+690?==/2<+A3>2?83;?/1?=>9669@/<8.3+
>23=0/=>3@+6-977/79<+>/=>2/./0/+>90>2/./7985381%+@+8+,C>2/19.
%+7++=>9<C</-9?8>/.38>2/38.?/:3-
8?66?
69-+6><+.3>398=+..>2/3<9A8:3;?+8-C>9>23=:+88.3+87C>2'2/=/
><+.3>398=9<3138+>/.38>2/ >2-/8>?<CA2/8>2/<?6/<+1+>&381238+.
@/<>/8>6C-+?=/.>2/./+>290+<+2738:<3/=>'9/B:3+>/23==382/
38=>+66/.>2/./3>C%+12?8+>2+838-+<8+>39890%+7+9823=>2<98/+8.
@9A/.>2+>>2/</+0>/<2/+8.23=./=-/8.+8>=A9?6.<?6/?66?986C+=
</1/8>='2/37+1/90>23=19.A+=,<9?12>+66>2/A+C0<97>2/296C
>9A890C9.2C+ >2/,3<>2:6+-/90 9<.%+7+<97>2/8
98/@/<C&/:>/7,/< #->9,/<%+12?8+>2E38@3>/=G+66>2/69-+619.=90
>2/@+66/C>9-/6/,<+>/?==/2<+38?66?'2/=/19.= 
90>2/7
38-6?./+.37,+>2/
:+><98./3>C90>2/
?66?<+4+=0<97!+8+63
 +8.+76?>2/ Image of Vashishtha
Devta, a local god
</318381./3>C90!+6+8+
A29+.7383=>/<=4?=>3-/@3+
>2/@366+1/:<3/=>'2/19.=+</-+<<3/.98
:+6+8;?38=0<97>2/3<9A8>/7:6/=+8.+<<3@/
+>>2/2+6:?<!+3.+838+-2//<0?6:<9-/==398
+--97:+83/.,C>2/0</8D3/.,/+>90.<?7=
"38/.+C=900/=>3@3>3/=09669AA2/8+>/7:9
<+<C7+<5/>3==/>?:A23-2=/66=/@/<C>2381
0<9769-+66C7+./=2+A6=+8.=29/=>9,<312>
6C2?/.:6+=>3->9C='2/1<+-/0?6.+8-/
:/<09<7/.+73.=>+69>900<3/8.6C<3@+6<C
,C=/@/<+669-+61<9?:=-+8+6=9,/A+>-2/.
Preparing for the Dussehra festival celebrations



        %   

! # % 


  
Kullu district. 281 km (175 miles) N of
Shimla.  6,300.   The Mall,
(01902) 253 531.  daily.  Winter
Carnival (Jan), Dhungri Mela (May).

"2,=>;.<:>.*7*52<2=>*=.-
*5870=1.@.<=+*748/=1.
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 8,*=.-
46
625.
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<*,;.-Hadimba Temple
<1*-.-+B*0;8?.8/<=*=.5B
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9*08-*<=B5.;88/@*<+>25=27

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<9;270<27=1.?255*0.8/
Vashisht*;.929.-27=8
%>;42<1<=B5.+*=1<>;=1.;>9
=1.58?.5BSolang Valley

46625.</;86-8@7=8@7
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=1.*;.*<8>=-88;*,=2?2=2.<
%;.4<5.*->9=8=1.9*<=>;.<
8/1>6=2*7-=1.<6*55

The 16th-century wooden Hadimba Temple in Manali

.A*695.8/=;*-2=287*558,*5
*;,12=.,=>;.@2=1@*55<
,8698<.-8/*5=.;7*=.5*B.;<
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1.@7<=87.=,866*7-<*
/27.?2.@8/=1..*<'*55.B
Environs
.*;+B2<=1.Roerich Art
Rohtang Pass=1.
Gallery-2<95*B270
9.;258><9*<<,;8<<270
=1.@8;48/=1.
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 625.<78;=18/
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Woodcarving on a
 %1./2;<=,*92=*58/
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in
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?*55.B'2<2=8;<<18>5-.7=.;=1.
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27=1.
=1,.7=>;B%1. *00*;
*<=5.+>25=27=1.
=1,.7=>;B  Roerich Art Gallery
2<78@*18=.5=2<*7.A,.55.7= Naggar.  daily. 
<78@/.-5*4.8/.*<>7 "*;*052-270*
989>5*;*,=2?2=B=*4.<95*,.87
=1.7.*;+B<589.<@12,1*5<8
*==;*,=<42.;<27=1.@27=.;

NICHOLAS ROERICH (18741947)

A tiny stream crisscrossing the


lush landscape around Manali

%12<6>5=2/*,.=.-#><<2*7@189*27=.-@;8=.98.=;B*7-
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#8.;2,152?.-27 *00*;@1.;.1.
-2.-27
 2<85-186.2<78@
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$?B*=8<5*?*5<8*9*27=.;6*-.
A mountainscape by
7-2*12<186.*<@.55
Roerich

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

         " #    $ 



 
  
Lahaul and Spiti district. 610 km (379
miles) N from Shimla to Keylong via
Kunjam Pass.  33,200. 
 Ladarcha Festival, Spiti (Aug).

=*7*5=2=>-.8/  6


 /=*1*>5*7-$92=2
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*7-7.201+8>;270>55>
Keylong=1.-2<=;2,=1.*-
:>*;=.;<87=1.1*0*;2?.;

The meandering Chenab river, near Gondhla village

2<=1.;.0287<9;27,29*5=8@7 -8627*=.<=1.5*7-<,*9.%1.
(2=16*7B+*<2,/*,252=2.<2=2< 85-.<=687*<=.;B27*1*>5
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Detail of a prayer
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Suraj Tal, the glacial lake that is the source of Bhaga river, one of the main rivers in Lahaul



        #      ! # 

    
 
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Bare multi-hued rock faces, a typical


feature of the Spiti area


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Minor road

0 km
0 miles

25
25

The land of the ibex and the snow


leopard,"#'%%1,#('%*$

#+'-',*&&%%)+,-*%'#',"
+"(/( .#*!#'+'(/)))$+,
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Chorten at a village in Pin Valley

        

!    " 



Vibrant mural showing a scene from Buddhist mythology, Tabo Monastery

Dhankar,"(%)#,%( 

)#,##+/!,/',"
)#''%+( *2(*+"*)+)-*
( *-&%#'!*($'%$%#'
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Children in Spiti

An impressive image of
Guru Padmasambhava

(.*#'!(%% #+,"
"#!"%#!",( %-'!('+,*1
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 +,*-,-*+*#,,(
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5)3-#)*776-7.<0-57;<
Lahaul and Spiti district. 460 km (286 ;1/61.1+)6<):<<:-);=:-;7.<0-
#1*-<)6=,,01;<?7:4,#0-
miles) NE of Shimla.   AprSep.
-):41-;<8)16<16/;16<0-
 Monastery Festival (Oct/Nov).
-$"'!);;-5*4A0)44):-
Travel permits required to travel
.:75<0-
<0)6,

<0+-6
between Tabo and Jangi (in Kinnaur).
<=:1-;)6,,-81+<;+-6-;.:75
Contact Deputy Commisioner, Shimla
(see p111), or SDMs office in Rekong >):17=;16+1,-6<;)6,<)4-;
);;7+1)<-,?1<0<0-41.-7.
Peo (see p118). For details see p115.
<0-=,,0)#0-0)44)4;7+76
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Fields of buckwheat in the Sangla Valley (see pp11819)

       

     



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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
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Buddhist monks in Ladakh blowing conch shells to announce the beginning of prayers



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ACCLIMATIZING
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

            &      $    #

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 daily.  Book in advance. 
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 daily.  Book in advance.
/(09(=<(9+0(56-;/,
 Ecological Centre
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 MonFri. Tel (01982) 253 221.

Environs
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Jokhang
 daily.
Sankar Monastery
 daily. 
Spituk Monastery
 daily.   with permission of
the lama-in-charge.
Phiyang Monastery
 daily.   with permission of
the lama-in-charge.

Spituk Monasterys labyrinth of shrines linked by narrow passages



FESTIVALS OF
LADAKH, JAMMU &
KASHMIR
Hemis Festival ##
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Sindhu Darshan $ 


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See also features on Little Tibet (p123), Buddhist Iconography (p141), and In the Buddhas Footsteps (p221).

            #      !   



Stok Palace, residence of Ladakhs erstwhile royal family

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Ladakh district. 14 km (9 miles)


S of Leh.   Leh Tourist Office,
(01982) 242 010.  Stok Monastic
Festival (Feb/Mar). Stok Palace 
MayOct.  

Ladakh district. 15 km (9 miles)


SE of Leh.   Leh Tourist Office,
(01982) 252 297.  Shey Shrubla
(1st week of Sep).
Shey Palace  daily. 

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A Ladakhi couple bringing their


baby to be blessed at Shey

BUDDHIST SECTS IN LADAKH


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Hemis Festival (Jun).
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Dance of the Oracle at the 16thcentury Matho Monastery

  


Leh district. 30 km (19 miles) SE of
Leh.   daily.   Annual
Matho Festival (Feb/Mar).

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The giant thangka unfurled during the festival at Hemis Monastery

THE MONASTIC DANCE-DRAMAS OF LADAKH


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(;&+$1*(1(:6$1'9,(:6
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

            "     

   



 
 
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See also features on Little Tibet (p123) and In the Buddhas Footsteps (p221).

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agent along specific tour routes. For
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A Ladakhi horseman taking a
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Tso Moriri, a breeding ground for


  

the great crested grebe


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

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TIPS FOR DRIVERS


Length: 195 km (121 miles).
Getting around: This tour takes
three days. Diskit, Hundar and
Panamik have guesthouses and
camps, for overnight stay.
Travel permits: Visitors must
obtain an Inner Line Permit from
the Deputy Commissioner, Leh,
(01982) 252 010, to travel in
the Nubra region. Permits are
granted only to groups of four
or more, and should be carried
all the time.

YO K

Khardung-la 1

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

STAR FEATURES

 Sumstek
 Dukhang

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Leh district. 70 km (44 miles) W of
Leh on the Leh-Kargil Highway.
  Leh Tourist Office, (01982)
252 297.  daily.  
Book ahead for a guide from Leh.
Alchi village has accommodation
as well as restaurants with toilet
facilities.

Chortens%106#+0+0)

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Riders, Central Asian in appearance, on the Avalokitesvara image

THE FIVE BUDDHAS OF MEDITATION


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?..2++8.>2/7+8.+6+=2/6:
Mandala with the
./@9>//=>97/.3>+>/98>2/7
Five Dhyani Buddhas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

One of the many prayer rooms


in Alchi Monastery

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?..2+:</+-2381

         

'      % 

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Kargil district. 190 km (118 miles)
NW of Leh.   Kargil Tourist
Office, (01985) 232 721.

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View of the Nun-kun massif from Suru Valley

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Kargil district. 19 km (12 miles) S of


Kargil.  to Sankhu.

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The 8-m (26-ft) high Maitreya


Buddha at Mulbekh

 
Kargil district. 230 km (143 miles) NW
of Leh and NE of Srinagar.  
Kargil Tourist Office, (01985) 232 721.
 Muharram (Mar/Apr), Ladakh
Festival (Sep). Travel permits are
required for the Dha-Hanu region,
available at Leh (see p142).

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A+==>3669:/8&2/7+49<3>C90
+<136=:9:?6+>398+</%23+

Prehistoric rock paintings in the


Suru Valley

THE DARDS
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@366+1/=+>2++8?/+=>90+<13698
>2/ 8.?=-69=/>9A2/</>2/<3@/<
A Dard in his
6/+@/= +.+5209<+6>3=>+8#+53=>+8
distinctive cap

A view of the dramatically-situated Phugtal Monastery (see p151) in Zanskar



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/0=4A0>1=:8?30
2=,9/0@=:14?>
7,9/>.,;0>?30
Kargil district. 110 km (68 miles) SE
>48;74.4?D:1741049
of Kargil.   Kargil Tourist
4?>A477,20>,9/
Office, (01985) 232 721.
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Gelugpa Monastery4>-@47?
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Kargil district. 230 km (143 miles) SE
>;,.0&30
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from Kargil to Padum.  to Padum.
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 Padum Tourist Office, (01983) 254 =024:9,=08:>?7D
Pensi-la


017.  Karsha Monastery Festival
8  1?,-:@?
,2=4.@7?@=,71,=80=>
(Jul/Aug).

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Stucco decoration and images in bas-relief at Sani Gompa, Zanskar
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

         

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Fertile fields of barley and wheat in the Stod Valley in Zanskar

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Bardhan and Phugtal
Monasteries

Phugtal Monastery, built into a sheer cliff-face

 daily. 



                

 

    
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Duration: 10 days
Altitude: 5,000 m (16,404 ft)
Level of difficulty: tough

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Duration: 10 days
Altitude: 5,100 m (16,732 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate

Rafting down the Indus river on


rubber dinghies, a popular sport

-JOHTIFU

4IJOHPMB
 N GU

OTHER OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES


White-water rafting0/5)&/%64"/%!"/4,"33*7&34
*4"1016-"3"$5*7*5:'30.6-:50.*%&15&.#&3)&3&
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/&$,&%$3"/&4"/%5)&&$)"*#&5"/8*-%"44

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

%BSDIB

           

         



PRACTICAL TIPS


&#-(*-.+*+/',., &.#$-  &( ($' +.#
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. ($-*)-. ,24&&1

Duration: 8 days
Altitude: 5,274 m (17,303 ft)
Level of difficulty: easy
Rafting53*140/5)&
/%64"3&03("/*;&%#:
-0$"-"(&/$*&4

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Be prepared: Most of the walking


is hard, and it is imperative to be
well acclimatized to the altitude,
as even the bottoms of river
gorges are 3,000 m (9,843 ft)
above sea level. For tips on
altitude sickness, see p767.
Guides and ponies are essential
for all treks in the region. Maps
are insufficient, so dont wander
off on your own as it could prove
fatal. For more details on
trekking see p751.
On the trek: Drink plenty of
water. Do not litter; carry all
rubbish back with you. Plastics
can be taken to the Ecology
Centre (01982) 253 221 in Leh.
Carry cooking fuel. Never burn
wood, which is a scarce resource.
Permits: Permits are required for
the Nubra Valley, Pang-gong Tso,
Tso Moriri and the Dha-Hanu
region (see p142). For general
details on permits see p758.
Equipment, jeep hire and
operators: Dreamland Trek &
Tours in Leh, (01982) 252 089
hires out trekking gear. Rafting
agencies include Indus Himalayan
Explorers (01982) 253 454 and
Rimo Expeditions (01982) 253
348. Jeeps are expensive and can
be hired from Leh for trips to
Nubra (see p143) and the lakes.
Check the price list at the taxi
stand. For more details see p755.

1VHB

Leh to Tso Moriri*4"

5TP,BS

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0 miles

KEY
Spituk to Hemis
Likir to Tingmosgang
Lamayuru to Alchi
Padum to Lamayuru
Padum to Darcha
Leh to Tso Moriri
Minor road
Peak

Tso Kar or White Lake, lying northwest of Tso Moriri

Pass

20



        &    ! " $ & 

CAUTION
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Chashmashahi Nishat+8.

Shalimar Gardens,9@/
Mosque+8.>2/Mosque of

 

  

Srinagar district. 700 km (435 miles)


NW of Delhi.  895,000.
8 km
(5 miles) S of city centre.  J&K
Tourism, (0194) 245 2690.  Miladul-Nabi (May).

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The impressive ruins of the 8th-century Sun Temple at Martand

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

         

'      % 

 $




 
Srinagar district. 96 km (60 miles)
E of Srinagar.  J&K Tourism,
Pahalgam Tourist Office, (01936) 243
224.

Srinagar district. 58 km (36 miles) W


of Srinagar.  J&K Tourism,
Gulmarg Tourist Office, (01954) 254
439.

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Mustard fields surrounding a


farmhouse in Pahalgam

A house in Gulmarg, one of Indias few ski resorts

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 Chashmashahi Garden
 daily. 
 Nishat and Shalimar

Gardens
 daily.


 

HOUSEBOATS AND SHIKARAS


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Houseboats and shikaras on Dal Lake

CENTRAL
INDIA

INTRODUCING CENTRAL INDIA 158165


UTTAR PRADESH & UTTARANCHAL 166211
BIHAR & JHARKHAND 212225
MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH
226255



          

     
  
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A view of the cenotaphs of the Orchha rulers, lying along the Betwa river

The glowing pastoral landscape of rural Kumaon near Mukteshwar (see p190), in the Western Himalayas

                      

GETTING AROUND
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Agra district. 223 km (139 miles)


SE of Delhi.  1,160,000.
Kheria, 8 km (5 miles) NE of city
centre. Agra Cantonment,
(0562) 236 8598; Raja ki Mandi,
(0562) 235 4477; Fort.  Idgah,
(0562) 236 4557.  UPTDC, 64
Taj Rd, (0562) 236 0517; ITDC,
191 Mall Rd, (0562) 222 6368.
 Kailash Fair (Aug/Sep).

 Fort Railway Station


Tel (0562) 236 4131.

John Hessings tomb in the


Roman Catholic Cemetery

0 metres

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Key to Symbols see back flap



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The colonnaded arches of the Diwan-i-Aam, the hall used for the emperors public audiences

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A riverside view of the Jahangiri


Mahal, the emperors main harem

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Khwajasaras Tomb
S of Agra, on Gwalior Rd.  daily.

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A view of the 17th-century tomb


of Firoz Khan Khwajasara

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

 Marble Screen
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VISITORS CHECKLIST

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Tajganj. Tel (0562) 233 0496.


 6am7pm SunThu.
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1 km (0.6 miles) N of Itimad-udDaulahs Tomb.  daily. 
 Rambagh
3 km (2 miles) N of Itimad-ud-Daulahs
Tomb.  daily.  free on Fri.

  



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STAR FEATURES

 Marble Screens
 Tomb Chamber
 Pietra Dura
Riverside pavilion at Rambagh
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

 

  
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
The dome4&1%&10

E bank of Yamuna. 4 km
(2 miles) upstream from the
Taj Mahal.  sunrisesunset
daily. 

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Mathura district. 62 km (39 miles)
NW of Agra.  299,000. 
Old Bus Stand, (0565) 240 6468.

Holi (Mar), Hariyali Teej (Jul),


Janmashtami (Jul/Aug), Kansa Vadha
(Sep), Annakut (Sep/Oct).

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Vishram Ghat at Mathura, where every evening at sunset oil lamps are floated on the river
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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FESTIVALS OF
UTTAR PRADESH &
UTTARANCHAL
International Yoga Week

Government Museum
Dampier Nagar. Tel (0565) 250 0847.
 TueSun. public hols. 
 extra charges.

 


Mathura district. 68 km (42 miles)
N of Agra.   daily.
Holi
(Mar), Rath ka Mela (Mar), Hariyali
Teej (Jul), Janmashtami (Jul/Aug).

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Entrance

  


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

                     



VISITORS CHECKLIST

  
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Jodha Bais
Palace

Sunehra
Makan

Agra district. 37 km (23 miles)


W of Agra.  UPTDC, 64 Taj Rd,
Agra, (0562) 236 0517.  daily.
    extra charges for
video photography.

Birbals
House



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STAR SIGHTS

 Turkish Sultanas
House

 Panch Mahal
 Diwan-i-Khas

PLAN OF FATEHPUR SIKRI


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

                     



  
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Pilgrims taking a dip in the holy Ganges at Haridwar

 

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Haridwar district. 214 km (133 miles) 4+9-*.7&3(*89478&3)+479-*.7
N of Delhi.    GMVN Tourist
4<3*=5.&9.43)*243897&9*
Office, Rahi Motel (01334) 228 686.
9-*.7)**5+&.9-.39-*54<*7
 Kumbh Mela (every 12 years;
4+9-*7.;*7!-*2&.3,-&9
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years; FebMar), Haridwar Festival
8:5548*).257.394+#.8-3:8
(Oct), Dussehra (Sep/Oct).
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Haridwar district. 238 km (148 miles)
N of Delhi.   GMVN Tourist
Office Muni-ki-Reti, (0135) 243 1793.
 International Yoga Week (Feb).

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8.9:&9*)&99-*(43+1:*3(*4+
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YOGA: THE ANCIENT PATH TO HOLISTIC HEALTH


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A woman performing an asana
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

" ! !        

    " ! !        



   
  
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9-*24384437&.384+9-*:55*7(&9(-2*39&7*&8
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9-74:,-9-.8;&11*>4+9-*8&,*8<-48*&8-7&28
3*891*.39-*8:774:3).3,+47*898&143,9-*-41>7.;*7

The Ganges flowing serenely


through a forested valley

'!.'/42)

$EVPRAYAG

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 4HREE"LIND-ICE

GES 

'

AN

Marine Drive 2

Kaudiyala 1

4HE7ALL

'OLF#OURSE

Shivpuri 3

3*4+9-*24898(*3.((&25
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(!2)$7!2

KEY
Tour route
Brahmapuri 4

!-.8(&25.8&1849-*
14(&9.434+&3&8-7&243*
4+2&3>&143,9-*&3,*8

Road
River
 Viewpoint
 Rapids
 Camp

Lakshman Jhula 5

24)*738:85*38.43'7.),*
 &(74889-*&3,*8
7*51&(*)9-*41)745*'7.),*
.3
!-.81.*8&99-*3479-
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4++*78+.3*;.*<84+9-*7.;*7

TIPS FOR RAFTERS

Rishikesh 6

3&3(.*3985.7.9:&1(*397*
.8-.0*8-.88*7*3*1>14(&9*)
439-*'&3084+9-*&3,*8
&2.)1:8-<44)*)-.118

10

0 km
0 miles

Length: 36 km (22 miles).


Getting around: Rafting can
be done over two or three days,
with night halts at camps
situated at Kaudiyala, Marine
Drive, Shivpuri and Brahmapuri.
A shorter tour of the same
stretch can also be done in
one day. For organized tours,
tour operators and equipment
hire (see p755).



 

% #    

  

The faade of the Forest Research Institute, Dehra Dun, established in 1914

  

 


*7-87.8/><<88;2.<
.*;52.<=;.<2-.7=<%1.=8@7<
Dehra Dun district. 256 km (159
Uttarkashi district. 35 km (22 miles)
<6*55 %2+.=*7,866>72=B2<
<.==5.-27Happy Valley,58<.
miles) NE of Delhi.  447,800. 
N of Dehra Dun.  26,000. 
 Uttaranchal Tourist Bureau, The
Jolly Grant, 24 km (15 miles) SE of
=8 87?.7=255%1. Tibetan
town centre.    GMVN,
Mall, (0135) 263 2663.
Market+.58@%1.*55<.55<
74/1, Rajpur Road, (0135) 274 7898.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

& % %  #  " #    $     & % %  # 

   



   

 
Uttarkashi and Chamoli districts. 148
km (92 miles) N from Rishikesh to
Uttarkashi.   Uttaranchal Tourist
Bureau, Uttarkashi, (01374) 274 761.

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backed by the Bhagirathi peaks



   # !        



   
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655"3"/$)"-

655"313"%&4)

LOCATOR MAP
Areas shown below

    
'(1
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+BIOBWJ

Duration: 6 days
Altitude: 4,500 m (14,764 ft)
Level of Difficulty: moderate to tough
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Duration: 3 days
Altitude: 3,024 m (9,921 ft)
Level of Difficulty: easy

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TIPS FOR WALKERS


Be prepared: Acclimatization is
essential for altitudes over 3,000 m
(9,843 ft). See p767 for information on altitude sickness. For longer
routes, guides are necessary. For
more details on trekking see p751.
On the trek: Drink plenty of
water. Carry a first aid kit and
cooking fuel. Never burn wood,
which is a scarce resource. Put
out all fires properly, leaving no
burning embers. Do not litter, and
carry your rubbish back with you.
Permits: In Garhwal, travel
permits are required for border
areas which can be obtained from
the District Magistrates Office in
Uttarkashi, (01374) 222 280 or
the GMVN, Rishikesh, (0135) 243
1793. No permits are required for
Kumaon. For more information
see p758.
Equipment hire & operators:
In Garhwal, contact Mount
Support in Uttarkashi, GMVN
(0135) 243 1793, in Rishikesh,
GMVN (0135) 274 7898, for trekking assistance; in Dehra Dun (see
p186), contact Garhwal Tours and
Trekking, (0135) 248 0799. In
Kumaon, Parbat Tours in Nainital,
(05942) 235 656, and the Nainital
Mountaineering Club, (05942)
235 057, organize treks. For more
details see p755.

  
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Duration: 6 days
Altitude: 4,268 m (14,003 ft)
Level of Difficulty: tough
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Duration: 3 days
Altitude: 3,352 m (10,997 ft)
Level of Difficulty: moderate

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Level of Difficulty: tough

NANDA DEVI SANCTUARY


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Nainital district. 322 km (200 miles)
NE of Delhi.  Kathgodam, 35 km
(22 miles) S of Nainital, then taxi
or bus.   KMVN, Om Park,
(05942) 231 436.

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The lake at Nainital, with facilities


for boating and water sports

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

( ' '  %  # %    &     ( ' '  %  !    



 
Almora district. 385 km (239 miles)
NE of Delhi.   Tourist
Reception Centre, (05962) 258 006.

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Pauri Garhwal & Nainital districts.
436 km (271 miles) NW of Lucknow. Entry points: Dhangarhi &
Kalagarh.  Ramnagar, 20 km
(12 miles) S of Dhangarhi. 
 For bookings and permits
contact Ramnagar, (05947)
251 225.  NovJun.  
 extra charges for video. 

  
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Lakhimpur-Kheri district. 220 km
(137 miles) N of Lucknow. Entry
point: Palia.  For
bookings contact Field Director,
Dudhwa, (05872) 252 106.
 15 Nov15 June.   extra
charges. Jeeps available.

 

% #    

  

  
Rampur district. 310 km (193 miles)
NW of Lucknow.  281,500. 

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:<*/(:-0:/05.,(.3,:(5+0)0: >(99069(5*,:;9@(9,=0:0)3,05 NW of Lucknow.  667,700.

 

  Numaish (Feb).

Swamp deer, also known as barasingha, in Dudhwas grasslands


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Jhansi district. 301 km (187 miles)
SW of Lucknow.  383,200. 
UP Tourism, Shivpuri Rd, (0517)
244 1267.  Jhansi Festival (Feb).

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 Archaeological Museum
 TueSun.
2nd Sat.  
extra charges for video photography.

  
Kanpur district. 79 km (49 miles) SW
of Lucknow.  2,532,100. 

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The ramparts of Shankar Fort at Jhansi, stormed by British forces in 1858

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RANI LAKSHMIBAI OF JHANSI


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Stained-glass window in the All


Souls Memorial Church, Kanpur



   % #        

 
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Sikander Baghs stately gateway,
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Gardens and Research Centre

View of the Tomb of Khurshid Zadi,


Qaiser Bagh

 Qaiser Bagh Palace


Qaiser Bagh.  daily.

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The British Residency before it was destroyed during the siege of 1857

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Lucknow district. 516 km (321


miles) E of Delhi.  1,917,000.
Amausi, 15 km (9 miles) SW
of Lucknow   Regional
Tourist Office, 10 Station Road,
(0522) 263 8105.  Muharram
(Mar/Apr).

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VISITORS CHECKLIST

 Bara Imambara
Hussainabad.  daily.
during
Muharram (Mar/Apr). 

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

& % %  #  " #    $     & % %  # 

   



 
Jaunpur district. 60 km (37 miles)
SE of Lucknow.  160,000.  

The colourful Hanuman Garhi Temple in Ayodhya

  
Faizabad district. 134 km (83 miles)
E of Lucknow.   Kartik Purnima
(Oct/Nov).

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The grand faade of the Jami


Masjid in Jaunpur

A view of the Taj Mahal (see pp1725) from across the Yamuna river, Agra



  

        

 
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

50
50

Bhadaini
Ghat

!      



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Varanasi district. 286 km (178
miles) SE of Lucknow. 
2,000,000.  22 km (14 miles)
NW of the city.   
Parade Kothi, (0542) 220 8162,
Varanasi Junction Station, (0542)
234 6370.  daily.  Shivratri
(Feb/Mar), Ramlila (Sep/ Oct),
Ganga Festival (Oct/Nov).


 
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Mahanirvani
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Harishchandra
Ghat

Rana Mahal
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Munsi
Ghat

Ahilyabai
Ghat

     
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

      

   
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Bhairavi Ghat

Mir
Ghat

0 metres
0 yards

50
50

BOAT RIDES
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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The creeper-covered ramparts of Allahabad Fort, built by the Mughal emperor Akbar

  

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Tourist Bungalow, 35 MG Marg,


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 Anand Bhavan
 TueSun. 
 Allahabad Museum
 TueSun. 
The tombs of Prince Khusrau and his sister, Khusrau Bagh
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Environs
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The remains of mud and brick


ramparts at Kausambi

Chitrakoots Ramghat, with temples on the banks of the Mandakini river


 


 

Banda district. 128 km (80 miles) SW


of Allahabad. Karwi, 8 km (5
miles) NE of town centre, then taxi or
bus. 
UPSTDC Tourism
Bungalow, (05198) 224 219.  daily.

Banda district. 190 km (118 miles)


W of Allahabad. Banda, 53 km
(33 miles) N of Kalinjar Fort, then taxi
or bus.   daily.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

    %       %    ! 



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Patna district. 1,015 km (631
miles) E of Delhi.  1,377,000.

7 km (4 miles) W of the city


centre.  Bihar
Tourism, JP Loknayak Bhavan,
Fraser Rd, (0612) 222 5411. 
MonSat.  Patliputra
Mahotsava (Mar).

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The magnificent 16th-century tomb of the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Sur at Sasaram

 

  

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

    $       $    ! 




 

Vaishali district. 55 km (34 miles) N
of Patna.   Tourist Information
Centre, Vaishali (06225) 284 425.

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Tel (06344) 222 430.  daily.

  
Deoghar district. 180 km (112 miles)
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Nalanda district. 90 km (56 miles)
S of Patna.  from Patna. 
Bihar Tourism, Nav Nalanda,
near bus station.  daily. 
Museum  SatThu. 

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

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 Buddha Jayanti (May).


 
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Giridih district. 179 km (111 miles)
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 Madhuban.

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Hazaribagh district. 107 km (66 miles)
N of Ranchi.
Hazaribagh Rd
Station, 67 km (42 miles) S of Pokharia,
the main entry point, then bus. 
 Tourist Office, near bus stand,
Hazaribagh town, located 16 km (10
miles) S of Pokharia. For permission
contact Divisional Forest Officer,
Hazaribagh, (06546) 22 3340.

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En route to Netarhat, through the picturesque Chhota Nagpur Plateau

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(15 miles) NW of Betla, the main
=/:./4:.+6'81

   
   

entry point.   Tourist Office,


Betla, (06562) 25 6513. For permits
contact the Deputy Director, Palamau
National Park, Daltonganj. Jeeps are
available at Betla.

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Watchtower in the Hazaribagh Wildlife Sanctuary


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

    
Palamau district. 156 km (97 miles)
W of Ranchi. 

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Environs
Hundru Falls 13

Fields on the outskirts of Ranchi

  
Ranchi district. 289 kms (180 miles)
E of Patna.  846,500.  5 km
(3 miles) S of town centre.

 Birsa Vihar Tourist Complex, Main
Rd, (0651) 230 1230.  daily. 
Rath Yatra (Jun/Jul).

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 Tourist Information Centre,


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Bistupur, (0657) 243 2892.  
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FESTIVALS OF BIHAR
& JHARKHAND
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Sculptures of apsaras (celestial nymphs) inside the 10th-century Lakshman Temple at Khajuraho



 

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The Durbar Hall of Jai Vilas Palace


with its two gigantic chandeliers

 

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Gwalior district. 321 km (200 miles)


S of Delhi.  827,000.  14 km
(8 miles) N of city centre.

 TO Hotel Tansen, MG Rd (0751)
223 4557.  Tansen Music Festival
(Oct/Nov).

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Exploring Gwalior Fort

The lavishly carved and decorated


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The 9th-century Teli ka Mandir, the


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The strikingly ornamental faade of Gwalior Fort



 

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Orchha 6
0 km
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20
10

TIPS FOR DRIVERS


Length: 120 km (75 miles).
Stopping-off points: Gwalior,
Sonagiri, Datia, Jhansi, Orchha
and Taragram provide convenient
stopovers. There is a petrol pump
at Dabra, after Gwalior. State
tourism hotels and guesthouses
are available at Gwalior, Datia,
Jhansi and Orchha. Local buses
run between the major stops.

Taragram 7

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The marble cenotaph of Madhavrao Scindia at Shivpuri

 

 


See pp2345.

Guna district. 227 km (141 miles) S


of Gwalior.  28,300. 
 MP Tourism, Tanabana, (07547)
25 2222.

 
Shivpuri district. 117 km (73 miles)
SW of Gwalior.  146,900.
   MP Tourism, Railway
Station, (0751) 254 0777.

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Chanderis fort, the scene of many battles


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267



   $ "        

    

 
4+>)+22+4:+>'362+5,"'06;:;4*+2'
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One of the chhatris (cenotaphs) of
the Bundela kings at Orchha

  
Tikamgarh district. 120 km (75 miles)
SE of Gwalior. Jhansi, 19 km (12
miles) NW of Orchha, then taxi or bus.
 MP Tourism, Sheesh Mahal,
(07680) 25 2624.  Ramnavami
(Apr), Dussehra (Sep/Oct).

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Carved niches2/4+
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Entrance

STAR FEATURES

    



 



  


 
 
 

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267

 Entrance Gateway
 Domed Pavilion

    &  ! "    #         $ $  #   " 



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Palace Complex.  daily.

public hols. MP Tourism,


Sheesh Mahal, (07680) 25 2624.
    Museum
 daily.
public hols.

  
  






 


 
 


  

 

 


!


Jahangirs
bedroom

Fortified
bastions

685:+)::.+
6'2')+

PLAN OF ORCHHA
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View of the Kandariya Mahadev temple,
built 10251050

  
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STAR FEATURES

 Apsaras
 Main Shikhara
 Erotic Panels
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267

The Maha Mandapa

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Chhatarpur district 275 kms (171
miles) SE of Gwalior.  5 km
(3 miles) S of temples.   MP
Tourism, Chandela Cultural Centre
(07686) 27 4051.  AugSep.
  Dance Festival (Feb-Mar).
Son et Lumire 7.30pm daily. 

   
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 %0- Archaeological
Museum6-):<0--6<:)6+-<7 Image of Vishnu in the
<0-'-;<-:6:7=80);).16- Lakshman Temple
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267

The polished stone image of


Varaha, Vishnus boar incarnation

5)27:<-584-160)2=:)07
?1<07=<)6A-:7<1+;+=48<=:-;
 Archaeological Museum
 SatThu. Tel (07686) 27 2320.

Environs
Raneh Falls
35

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Panna district. 75 km (45 miles) E of
Khajuraho.  daily.

%01;/:-)<0)6,-4)+1<),-4
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    (  " #    $         % %  $   # 

 
   



VISITORS CHECKLIST

!6-7.6,1);57;<1587:<)6<%1/-:
#-;-:>-;<0-)6,0)>/):0 )<176)4
"):3;8:)?4;)+:7;;)6):-)7. ;9
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;+-61+):-);81+<=:-;9=-0144<78.7:<?1<0.16-
;+=48<=:-;1;8):<7.<0-8):3;)<<:)+<176;

Shahdol district. 237 km (147


miles) SE of Khajuraho.
Umaria, 33 km (21 miles) SW of
Tala, the main entry point. 
 MP Tourism, White Tiger
Lodge, Tala, (07653) 26 5308. 
OctJun.   extra charges.

Jeep safaris available.

      
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 Bharat Bhavan
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Taj-ul-Masjid
Hamidia Rd.  daily.  to nonMuslims on Fri & on Muslim festivals.

The Chowk
Bazaar  TueSun. Jami Masjid
 daily.  to non-Muslims on Fri &
on Muslim festivals.

 State Museum
Shamla Hills. Tel (0755) 266 1856.
 TueSun.  

The Taj-ul-Masjid, Bhopals most imposing monument


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267

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    *  " $    %         & &  %   $ 



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Bhopal district. 744 km
(462 miles) S of Delhi. 
1,433,900. 11 km (7 miles)
W of city centre.  
MP Tourism, Paryatan
Bhavan, Bhadbhada Rd (0755)
277 4340.  TueSun.

+,9?> :7A2/8>2/C-97/
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Replica of a tribal hut in the Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya

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 Birla Museum
Near Lakshmi Narayan Temple. Tel
(0755) 255 1388.  ThuTue. 

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 Rashtriya Manav

Sangrahalaya (Museum
of Man)
S of Shamla Hills.  TueSun. 

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Sculpture from the incomplete


Bhojeshwar Temple, Bhojpur

  
Bhopal district. 28 km (17 miles) SE
of Bhopal.   MP Tourism,
Bhopal, (0755) 277 4340.

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THE BHIMBETKA CAVE PAINTINGS

Cave shelter at
Bhimbetka

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8/5*;0.*726*5<<>,1*<+2<87*7-;1278-87. painting from Bhimbetka
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267

    )  " #    $         % %  $   # 



FESTIVALS OF
MADHYA PRADESH &
CHHATTISGARH
Shivratri "

Stupa 3, which originally contained the relics of the Buddhas disciples

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Sculpture of Varaha, Vishnus boar


incarnation, from Cave 5, Udayagiri

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of Bhopal.   MP Tourism,
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VISITORS CHECKLIST


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 daily.   Archaeological
Museum  (07482) 26 6611.
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the stupa in a clockwise direction.

The vedika (railings)-!


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 Salabhanjika



 

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Indore district. 187 km (116 miles) W
of Bhopal.  1,597,400.
10 km
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Tourism, behind Ravindra Natyagriha,
(0731) 252 8653.  MonSat.
 Ganesha Chaturthi (Aug/Sep).

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Ujjain district. 56 km (35 miles) NW
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MP Tourism, Railway Station,
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Dhar district. 105 km (65 miles) W of
Indore.  Tourist Cottages,
(07292) 26 3235.

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Royal Enclave.  daily.  
 Tourist cottages, Mandu,
(07292) 26 3235.


   
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267

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 MonSat.

Environs
Pachmarhis Christ Church, built in
1875, a relic of the Raj

  
Hoshangabad district. 210 km (130
miles) SE of Bhopal.  11,400.
Piparia, 47 km (29 miles) N of Pachmarhi, then taxi or bus.  Pipariya,
(07576) 22 3499.   MP Tourism,
Amaltas Complex Station, (07578) 25
2100.  Shivratri (Feb/Mar).

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E of Bhopal.  951,500.  14 km
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(0761) 267 7690.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6979 and pp7267

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VISITORS CHECKLIST

   
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Mandla district. 196 km (122


miles) SE of Jabalpur.  to Khatia
and Kisli, the main entry points.
 MP Tourism, Kisli, (07649) 27
7227; Bhopal, (07649) 27 7242.
Other entry points: Mukki. 
OctJun.   extra charges.
 guides are compulsory.  
from Kisli. Jeep safaris available.
Visitors cannot walk in the park.


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KEY
Park boundary
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 Tourist information
 Viewpoint
 Accommodation

    


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KIPLINGS JUNGLE BOOK


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EASTERN
INDIA

INTRODUCING EASTERN INDIA 258265


KOLKATA 266283
WEST BENGAL & SIKKIM 284303
ORISSA 304321
ASSAM & THE NORTHEAST 322339



            


 
 

 
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The 10th-century Mukteshwar Temple


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Tea gardens in Darjeeling, nestling in the


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GETTING AROUND
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A village pond in Orissa, with a small Hindu temple on its banks

     

                 



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PICKERS IN A TEA GARDEN


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Assam
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Different types of Indian tea#(&/!,(


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BASIC DISHES
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FISH AND SEAFOOD


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A small selection of the many varieties of sweets from Bengal

LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699700 and pp7278

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Detail of the ornamental entrance


of Nakhoda Mosque



 
Zakaria St. Tel (033) 2235 4183.
 daily.  to nonMuslims during
times of prayer. 

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Armenian St, near Brabourne Rd. Tel
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Eden Gardens, the site of many cricket matches



  ! " 

      



 
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STAR SIGHTS

 Angel of Victory
 Statue of the Young
Queen Victoria

Entrance

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Queens Way. Tel (033) 2223 5142.
 TueSun.  public hols. 
  Son et Lumire (English)
7.15pm, OctFeb, 7.45pm, MarJun
 www.victoriamemorial-cal.org

Exploring the Victoria


Memorial

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A majestic bronze statue of Queen


Victoria by Sir George Frampton



 
 

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STAR SIGHTS

 Gandhara Sculpture
The well-preserved period faade of
Chowringhee building

 Bharhut Railings

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699700 and pp7278

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
JL Nehru Rd. Tel (033) 2286 1702.
 TueSun.  public hols. 
 extra charges 
Note: Educational film shows
daily, and special exhibitions

KEY
Art and Textile Gallery

 
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Geology Section
Botany Section
Zoological Section
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Egyptian Gallery

Second
floor

Numismatics Gallery
Library



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First
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GALLERY GUIDE

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Weathered tombs in the tree-shaded Park Street Cemetery


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699700 and pp7278

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Bounded by AJC Bose Rd, Belvedere
Rd & Alipore Rd. Alipore Zoological
Gardens  9am5pm FriWed. 
National Library Tel (033) 2479
1384.  daily.  public hols. 
Agri Horticultural Society
Tel (033) 2479 0834.  710am
& 26pm MonSat. www.
agrihorticultureindia.com  Flower
Show (Feb).

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The National Library in Alipore, with its colonnaded verandah

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MOTHER TERESA (19101997)

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Off the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass.
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6/4, Dwarkanath Tagore Lane.
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(033) 2269 6610.  10am5pm
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Son et Lumire 6 & 7pm (English).
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46, Muktaram Babu St.  10am
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The red brick Rabindra Bharati University, at Jorasanko

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699700 and pp7278

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THE DURGA PUJA

Image of the ten-armed


Durga, slaying Mahisha

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HANDICRAFTS AND GIFTS

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ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES,
TICKETS AND VENUES

BOOKS AND MUSIC

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CLUBS AND NIGHTLIFE


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DIRECTORY
SARIS AND
TEXTILES
Ananda
13, Russell St.
Tel (033) 2229 2275.

Calcutta Carpets

Dollys Tea Shop


G62, Dakshinapan,
2, Gariahat (S).
Tel (033) 2483 4521.

Sasha
27, Mirza Ghalib St.
Tel (033) 2252 1586.

43, Park St.


Tel (033) 2229 9464.

BOOKS AND MUSIC

Makhan Lal Das &


Sons

Fame

356, Upper Chitpur Rd.

Park, 925 Chak Garia.

Tel (033) 2555 8182.

Tel (033) 2436 7744.

Nakur Nandy &


Girish Chandra Dey

Gorky Sadan

56, Ramdulal Sarkar St.

Tel (033) 2283 2743.

Tel (033) 2241 0048.

Nandan

Dasgupta &
Company

ENTERTAINMENT
VENUES

54/3, College St.


Tel (033) 2241 4609.

89 Cinemas

10, Dr Sarat Banerjee Rd.

Music World

Kalam Azad Sarani.

Tel (033) 2466 1111.

18 G, Park St.
Tel (033) 2217 0751.

Tel (033) 2320 8900.

Good Companions
13 C, Russell St.
Tel (033) 2229 0473.

Kundahar

Meera Bose
8, Dr Sarat Banerjee Rd.
Tel (033) 2466 4043.

Ritus
111, Park St.
Tel (033) 2226 2792.

HANDICRAFTS
AND GIFTS
Manjusha
Emporium
Dakshinapan Complex,
Dhakuria
Tel (033) 2423 7099.

Crafts Council of
West Bengal
64, Lake Place.
Tel (033) 2465 6792.

89 C, Maulana Abdul

Metropolis Mall, Hiland

3, Gorky Terrace.

1/1, AJC Bose Rd.


Tel (033) 2223 1210.

Rabindra Sadan
Cathedral Rd.
Tel (033) 2223 9917.

CLUBS AND
NIGHTLIFE

Oxford Bookstore

Academy of Fine
Arts

17, Park St.


Tel (033) 2229 7662.

2, Cathedral Rd.

The Kenilworth,

Tel (033) 2223 4302.

Little Russell St.

Birla Academy of
Art and Culture

Tel (033) 2282 3939.

108, Southern Ave.

22, Camac Street,

Starmark

Tel (033) 2466 2843.

Block B, 5th Floor.

3, Lord Sinha Rd.


Tel (033) 2282 2617.

British Council

Tel (033) 2281 1313.

16, Camac St.

Someplace Else

SWEETS

Tel (033) 2282 5370.

The Park Hotel, Park St.

Balaram Mullick

CIMA Gallery

Tel (033) 2249 9000.

2, Puddapukur Rd.
Bhowanipur.
Tel (033) 2475 9490.

Sunny Towers, Ashutosh

Tantra

Chowdhury Ave.

The Park Hotel, Park St.

Tel (033) 2485 8717.

Tel (033) 2249 9000.

KC Das & Sons

Chitrakoot Gallery

Tollygunge Club

11, Esplanade East.


Tel (033) 2248 5920.

55, Gariahat Rd.

120, Deshpran Sasmal Rd.

Tel (033) 2461 8812.

Tel (033) 2473 4741.

Seagull Bookstore
31, SP Mukherjee Rd.
Tel (033) 2476 5869.

Big Ben

Shisha

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RAMAKRISHNA PARAMHANSA (183686)


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7001 and pp7289

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24 Parganas district. 168 km (104


miles) SE of Kolkata.  Canning,
45 km (28 miles) NW of
Sajnakhali, the entry point to the
Tiger Reserve.  Basanti, 30 km
(19 miles) NW of Sajnakhali. 
from Canning or Basanti via
Gosaba to Sajnakhali.  For
bookings contact the Field
Director, (03218) 255 280. Permits
are available at the Tourist Dept,
Kolkata, (033) 2248 7302. 
NovMar.   compulsory. 
Rowboats with boatmen are
available from Sajnakhali.

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TALE OF THE TIGER


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mother and child from the tiger



  # $  "       

 

    

Creeper
motif

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Front faade of the Shyama Raya Temple

  
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The cornice

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7001 and pp7289

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%  # $           #     



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Bankura district. 152 km
(94miles) NW of Kolkata.
 128,811.    daily.
 Rasa Festival (Aug).

The twin hut-like roofs of the Keshta Raya Temple, Bishnupur

Exploring Bishnupurs
Temples

  


$# %!$
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The curved
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miles) NW of Kolkata. 
 Barddhaman Festival (Jan).

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BANKURA HORSES

 
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Bankura clay horse



  % &  $

 

  

+34

F &2/ Vichitra
Museum2+=7/79<+,363+

Students attending open air classes


at Visva Bharati University


   
Birbhum district. 213 km (132 miles)
NW of Kolkata.  Bolpur, 3 km
(2 miles) S of Shantiniketan, then
rickshaw.  Bolpur. 
Kendulimela (Jan), Paush Mela (Dec).

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A3>29?>:+?=/09<>2<//.+C=
 Visva Bharati University
Tel (03463) 25 2531.  ThuTue.
  Vichitra Museum
 daily.  



Murshidabad district. 200 km
(124 miles) N of Kolkata.  

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 +6981
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The grand faade of Hazarduari Palace in Murshidabad

RABINDRANATH TAGORE (18611941)


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-6+==/81+63297/=
Nobel laureate Tagore, in 1930

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7001 and pp7289

)  % &   

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      %     



The carved terracotta faade of the Eklakhi Mausoleum, Pandua

A/</9?=>/.,C>2/%/8+=
+8.>2/Lattan MosqueA3>2
/81+6=6+=>38.?.C8+=>C
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Malda district. 360 km (224 miles)
>2/?12+67:3</
N of Kolkata.  Malda, 18 km
 &2/96./=>=><?->?</3=>2/
Sagar Dighi+6+<1/>+85,?36> (11 miles) S of Pandua, then taxi
 Hazarduari Museum
or bus. 
38>2/
>2-/8>?<C!8>2/
 SatThu.  
/+=>/<8,+8590>2/2+13<+>23
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57736/=></>-2
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Malda district. 325 km (202 miles) N
90+896.:+@/.
:+6+-/&2/
of Kolkata.  Malda, 16 km (10
,<3-5<9+.8
 
89<>2/<81+>/>2/
miles) N of Gaur, then taxi or bus. 
Dakhil Darwaza
"+8.?+</:6+-/.
Monuments  daily.
,?36>38
2+=+
+?<+=>2/-+:3>+6
=9+<381/8><+8-/
90/81+6=?=637
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%?6>+8%35+8.+<
=/-98.?12+6/7:/<9<
90Sona Mosque
The Gumti Darwaza,
Gaur
,?36>38
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 =;736/=.+>/=>9>2/
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The Dakhil Darwaza in Gaur, built with small, red bricks



 



  $ %  #

 

  

Tea plantations lining the road between Bagdogra and Siliguri

  
Darjeeling district. 79 km (49 miles)
SE of Darjeeling.  470,300.
 Bagdogra, 12 km (7 miles) W of
Siliguri, then taxi or bus.  New
Jalpaiguri, 60 km (37 miles) SE of
Siliguri, then taxi or bus.  
Tourist Office, Siliguri, (0353) 251 1974.

$141/=:1;1<=)<-,16<0-
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Tenzing Norgay Road%0-

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Environs

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/:--6)+:-;7.<-)84)6<)<176;

  


Jalpaiguri district. 200 km (78 miles)
E of Siliguri.  Madarihat, the entry
point, then taxi.  Madarihat. 
For general enquiries and bookings
for the Hollong Forest Lodge contact
Tourist Office, Siliguri, (0353) 251
1974.  OctMay.   extra
charges. Hollong.

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8):)(14,41.-$)6+<=):A16<0-
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;9514-;;<)*41;0-,16



THE DARJEELING HIMALAYAN RAILWAY (DHR)


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The toy train pulled by steam engines
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7001 and pp7289

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FESTIVALS OF
WEST BENGAL
& SIKKIM

  

Gaur (Indian bison) roaming the scrubland at Jaldapara

Saraswati Puja pandal

Ganga Sagar Mela 


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 &1.Himalayan Mountaineering Institute2<=8=1.
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A view of Darjeeling with Mount Kanchendzonga in the background
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dzonga6 
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Himalayan Zoo2<*-3*,.7=*7-
7-2*<1201.<=9.*4
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(0354) 225 4050.
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The carved and painted faade of the Yiga Choeling Monastery
27  &1.6>;*5<27=1.

  

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7001 and pp7289

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Bhutia Busty Monastery
Chowrasta.  daily.
 Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
Birch Hill Park, entrance on Jawahar
Rd West. Tel (0354) 225 4268. 
daily.
Thu.   extra charges.
 Himalayan Zoo
 FriWed. 

Environs

&18<.27=.;.<=.-27>--12<6
<18>5-?2<2==1.Yiga Choeling
Monastery
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Women tea pickers in northern Bengals tea gardens, around Darjeeling

Senchal Lake46 625.<


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Fo-Brang Monastery Hotel
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Yiga Choeling Monastery
*5269870<85-.<=687*<
 daily. Donations welcome.
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=8@7=1.Zangdopelri FoBrang Monastery+5.<<.-+B
Darjeeling district. 51 km (32 miles)
=1. *5*2*6*27 1*<
<86.27=.;.<=270=1;..
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1.*-8/=1.*7,2.7==;*-.
Mani Pradhan Nursery

 


TENZING NORGAY (191486)


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Statue of Tenzing, Himalayan
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Mountaineering Institute
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Institute of Tibetology
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Enchey Monastery
>2/+<7/.1?+<.=>2+>=?<<9?8.
 daily.  only allowed outside
>2/798+=>/<CA366</7+38
the monastery.
Stupa at Gangtoks Namgyal
$?7>/5=7+380/=>3@+6=+</38
 Namgyal Institute of
Institute of Tibetology
/,<?+<C +<-2+8.38
Tibetology
+C ?8/ Tshangu Lake

 MonSat.
2nd Sat & public

57 736/=89<>2/+=>90
hols.  www.tibetology.com
+81>9563/=+>+8+6>3>?./90
East Sikkim district. 110 km (68 miles) Environs

7 
0>(3=3>9<=>9
N of Siliguri.  29,200. Bagdogra, Saramsa Orchidarium=3>?+>/. >2/6+5/</;?3</+=:/-3+6
117 km (73 miles) S of city centre,
57736/==9?>290
:/<73>0<97>2/%35537
then taxi or bus. Siliguri, 107 km
+81>95.3=:6+C=7+8C90
&9?<3=79003-/38+81>95
(66 miles) S of city centre, then taxi or >2/
9<-23.=:/-3/=
&2/.<3@/>9&=2+81?
bus.   Sikkim Tourism, MG
09?8.38%35537
+5/-69=/>9>2/
Marg, (03592) 221 634.  Losar
&2/C069A/<0<97
,9<./<A3>2238+
Festival (Feb/Mar), Enchey Monastery
:<36>9 +C+8.
3==:/->+-?6+<&2/
Festival (Aug & Dec). Travel permits
+1+3838"->9,/<
6+5/3=37:</==3@/
required to enter Sikkim (see p303).
Rumtek Monastery
,9>238=:<381+8.
57 736/=
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Guardian of the East
/:-2+=>2/</1398=9<3138+6 96./=> &3,/>+8
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at
Rumtek
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Rumtek
Monastery
&29?1289A0?669079./<8
>2+<7+:+06/.&3,/>38
Tel (03592) 252 329.  daily. 
=><?->?</=+81>95=
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only allowed outside the monastery.
E%2+81<36+G+=:/->=-+8=>366,/ =398+8.,?36>+</:63-+2/</
www.rumtek.org
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%35537@9>/.>94938>2/8.3+8 The richly decorated prayer hall of Rumtek Monastery




For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7001 and pp7289

)  % &    !       %    



   


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Length: 149 km (93 miles).


Stopping-off points: The tour
can be done in 23 days.
Phodong, Mangan-Singhik and
Lachung are stopping-off points.
Permits: Visitors require special
permits for this region, issued by
the Department of Tourism in
Gangtok, (03592) 221 634.
Travel is permitted in groups of
two or more persons. For more
details see p303.

MTH A
9U

TIPS FOR DRIVERS

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Lachung 5

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4E


ES T A

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Phodong 2

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Gangtok 1



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2<*+><=5270
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6
/=

'  % &    !       %    

  
West Sikkim district. 120 km (75
miles) W of Gangtok.  Gezing, 9
km (6 miles) S of city centre, then
local bus or taxi.  Mount Pandim,
Pemayangtse, (03595) 250 573.
 Pemayangtse Festival (Feb/Mar).
Travel permits required (see p303).



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 46 625.<<8>=1
miles) W of Gangtok.   Mount
 &1.6*27*==;*,=2871.;.2<
=1.687*<=2,,8695.A8/
Pandim, Pemayangtse, (03595) 250
Pemayangtse+>25=27 
87 573. Travel permits required
*;2-0.*1*5/18>;<@*54/;86 (see p303).
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C870;2 

 

Prayer flags fluttering near Yuksam, the first capital of Sikkim

Mani stones being carved at


Tashiding Monastery

 
 
  
West Sikkim district. 145 km (90
miles) W of Gangtok.   daily.
 Bumchu Festival (Feb/Mar).
Travel permits required (see p303).

>25=27  &*<12-270
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7001 and pp7289



            


 
  


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Duration: 6 days
Altitude: 3,636 m (11,929 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate

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MOUNT KANCHENDZONGA
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A panoramic view of Mount
#2*/($"4"34201)&40*,,*.
Kanchendzonga from Dzongri Peak
b

0 miles

                  



PRACTICAL TIPS
,BODIFOE[POHB

 
 
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20 (+%0.,$, 7 -&21$2.8.-&0(
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:VLTBN

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b

BU

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Duration: 67 days
Altitude: 4,030 m (13,222 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate to tough

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KEY
The Singalila Ridge

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Kurseong to Mirik
The Dzongri Trail

Major road

.BOFCIBOKBO

Minor road

,VSTFPOH
b

.JSJL

 
&0$ 2(-20.#3"2(.-2.2'$
$12$-& +'(++12'(1&$-2+$
*, ,(+$'(*$&.$1
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-#+." +2$ $12 2$1
Duration: 1 day
Altitude: 1,767 m (5,797 ft)
Level of difficulty: easy

Be prepared: Acclimatization is
essential for altitudes over 3,000 m
(9,843 ft). See p767 for information
on altitude sickness. Guides and
porters can be hired in Gangtok
and Darjeeling. The region is hit
hard by the monsoon and trekking
between early June and late
September is not advisable. For
more details on trekking see p751.
On the trek: Sikkims trekking
trails have suffered deforestation
and littering, so ensure that all litter
is carried back with you. Drink
plenty of water and carry a first aid
kit and cooking fuel. Never burn
wood, which is a scarce resource.
Put out all fires properly, leaving no
burning embers. Some trails have
leeches (see p767), so carry salt
which, when sprinkled on a leech,
causes it to fall off.
Permits: Foreign visitors require
travel permits for Sikkim, issued for
a 15-day period from the District
Magistrates Office in Darjeeling,
(0354) 225 4233, or the Sikkim
Tourism offices in Delhi, (011) 2611
5346, Kolkata, (033) 2281 5328,
and Siliguri, (0353) 221 6502. A
14-day extension is permitted,
issued by the Department of
Tourism in Gangtok, (03592) 221
634, who also issue special permits
for restricted areas such as Dzongri,
Yumthang and Tsomgo Lake.
Travel to these areas is permitted
in groups of two or more persons.
Trekking permits for Sikkim are
available from the Department of
Tourism in Gangtok, and Sikkim
Tourism in Delhi. All treks must be
arranged by a registered agency.
For general information see p758.
Equipment hire & operators:
Himalayan Adventures in
Darjeeling, (0354) 225 4004, and
Sikkim Trekking and Tours in
Gangtok, (03592) 203 638, are
reputed agencies. For more
details see p755.



            



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Exploring the temples

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 Chausath Yogini Temple


15 km (9 miles) SE of Bhubaneswar.

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Garden umbrella from Pipli,


with appliqu-work

Environs
Pipli 133/2+995;:.5,
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FESTIVALS OF
ORISSA
Tribal Mela  
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Konark Dance Festival

) 54'81
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A dancer performing during


Rath Yatra celebrations



       

    
 
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp72930

    



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Puri district. 65 km 40 miles) SE
of Bhubaneswar.   Orissa
Tourism, Sunvilla, (06758) 236
8202.  daily.   
Magha Saptami (Jan/Feb), Konark
Dance Festival (Dec). Archaeological Museum  FriWed.  

The Konark Sun Temple, on the shores of the Bay of Bengal

The three-tiered roof!*

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Bhogmandir

Main entrance

STAR FEATURES

 Surya
 Wheels of the
Chariot

 
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Puris Jagannath Temple, topped
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Puri district. 60 km (37 miles) S of
7+38=><//>Bada Danda<?8=
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Bhubaneswar.  157,650.  
>2<9?12>2/>9A8-<+77/.
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A3>2:361<37=</=>29?=/=+8.
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=9?@/83<=+8.2+8.3-<+0>=
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp72930

" $  % % 



 
 
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Lord
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Temple
offerings

Devotees

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cityscape

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PATTACHITRA PAINTING OF THE RATH YATRA


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Temple dancers

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Fishermen on the beach at Gopalpur-on-Sea (see p316)



            

 
 
Ganjam district. 172 km (107 miles)
SW of Bhubaneswar.  Berhampur
18 km (11 miles) E of town centre,
then taxi or bus.   Orissa
Tourism, Berhampur Railway Station,
(0680) 228 0226.

A view of Chilika Lake, a haven


for water birds and dolphins

  
Puri, Ganjam & Khordha districts.
50 km (31 miles) SW of Puri. 
Balugaon, then taxi or bus. 
Balugaon & Satpada.  Orissa
Tourism, Barkul, (06758) 220 488.
 Makar Mela (Jan). Satpada and
Nalabana Islands  hired from
Barkul, Balugaon, Satpada & Rambha.

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Ganjam district. 170 km (106 miles)
SW of Bhubaneswar.  
 Orissa Tourism, Railway Station,
(0680) 228 0226.

Floral offering to a goddess of


fertility at Taptapanis hot springs

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Ganjam district. 51 km (32 miles)
W of Berhampur.   Orissa
Tourism, (06816) 255 031.

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century temple at Buguda
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp72930

     



    


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  Orissa Tourism, Arunodaya
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Market Building, Link Rd, (0671) 231
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2225.  Bali Yatra (Oct/Nov).
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The 18th-century Kadam Rasul Mosque in Cuttack

THE INDONESIAN CONNECTION


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Bali Yatra fair at Cuttack
.47)<-,16<0-:1>-:
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp72930

 


Cuttack district. 70 kms (44 miles) NE
of Cuttack.   Orissa Tourism,
Link Rd, Cuttack, (0671) 231 2225.

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The serene 7th-century meditating


Buddha image at Ratnagiri

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Flocks of waders amidst the mangroves at Bhitarkanika Sanctuary

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 Ratnagiri Archaeological

Museum
 Sat-Thu. 


 

  
Kendrapara district. 106 km (66
miles) NE of Cuttack. Entry points:
Chandbali, Rajnagar. Bhadrakh,
50 km (31 miles) NW of Chandbali,
then bus.  to Rajnagar.  from
Rajnagar or Chandbali to Dangmal,
Ekakula & Habalikhati.  For permits
and bookings contact Bhubaneswar,
(06786) 220 397 or Rajnagar, (06729)
272 460.  mid-Octmid-Apr. 

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Mayurbhanj district. 320 km (199 miles)
N of Bhubaneswar. Entry points:
Lulung & Jashipur. Baripada, 50
km (30 miles) E of the park, then bus
or taxi.  to Lulung (via Baripada) &
Jashipur. For bookings and permits
contact Field Director, Simlipal Tiger
Reserve, Baripada, (06792) 52 553.
 Novmid-June.   extra
charges.  Jeeps available in the park.

Women tending their paddy fields near Baleshwar


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp72930

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A waterfall cascading down the hills at Barehipani, Simlipal National Park

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TRIBES OF ORISSA
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Shiva and Parvati, Khiching

          



   

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Towns & Cities

National Parks

Tours

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Monasteries

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Lush ferns surrounding a small waterfall in the dense rainforests of Meghalaya, near Shillong

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Devotees at Guwahatis Kamakhya Temple, a major centre of pilgrimage for Hindus



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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7012 and pp73031

Umananda Temple
Peacock Island.  Umananda Ghat,
1 km (0.6 miles) N of railway station.

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 State Museum
GN Bordoloi Rd. Tel (0361) 254
0651.  TueSun. 

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Umananda Temple, on a pretty


island in the Brahmaputra

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RG Baruah Rd.  SatThu.  
extra charges.

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Vashishtha Temple, on a wooded hill surrounded by streams

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THE MIGHTY BRAHMAPUTRA


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Sculpture of a goddess from the


temple ruins at Madan Kamdev



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Permits Divisional Forest Officer,
Koloabhomora, (03712) 220 854.
 SepApr.   extra charges.
 Potasali Eco-Camp
09854019932, 09435250025.
 Orang Wildlife Sanctuary
Permits Divisional Forest Officer,
Mangaldoi, (03712) 22 065. 
OctApr.  

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Sonitpur district. 180 km (112 miles)
/58@<9*<=2=--.-*==;*,=287< miles) NW of Tezpur.   Losar
NE of Guwahati.  58,250.

*;.6.-2,27*518=<9;270<*7- (Feb/Mar). Travel permits required


Saloni, 10 km (6 miles) N of town
*7";,12-.7=;.58,*=.-46 (see p758).
centre, then bus or taxi. 
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Tourist Office, Zenkins Rd,
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*7-*7.A:>2<2=.5B,*;?.--88; Monpas celebrating their New Year with a Yak Dance near Bomdila
The ruins of Tezpurs Da Parbatia Temple,
dating to the 5th6th centuries AD



For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7012 and pp73031

 


 % % 

   &  

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FESTIVALS OF
ASSAM & THE
NORTHEAST
Losar 86-25*

*7- &*@*70 &1. 879*


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Rows of prayer wheels at the 17th-century Tawang Monastery

 
 

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Tawang district. 325 km (202 miles)
*<<.6+5B1*551*<*6*072
NW of Tezpur.   Losar (Feb/Mar). /2,.7=6 /=1201<=*=>.
Travel permits required (see p758).
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Dancers at the Rongali Bihu


Festival, Assam

Rongali Bihu 

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7012 and pp73031

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Golaghat district. 215 km (134
miles) NE of Guwahati.  Jorhat,
96 km (60 miles) NE of Kohora,
the entry point, then taxi. 
Furkating, 75 km (47 miles) E of
Kohora, then taxi.   Bonani
Tourist Lodge, Kohora, (03776) 26
2423.  NovApr.   extra
charges.  Jeeps available.

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Sibsagar district. 370 km (230 miles) NE
of Guwahati.  54,500.
Jorhat,
60 km (37 miles) S of city centre, then
taxi or bus.  Assam Tourism,
near Shivadol Temple, (03772) 222
394.  Shivratri (Feb/Mar).

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13 km (8 miles) N of Jorhat.  from
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Bamboo forests in the vicinity of Itanagar, in Arunachal Pradesh


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7012 and pp73031

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Papum Pare district. 420 km (261
miles) N of Guwahati.  35,000.
Lakhimpur, 60 km (37 miles) NE
of town centre, then taxi or bus. 
Directorate of Tourism, Itanagar,
(0360) 221 4745. Travel permits
required (see p758).

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Changlang district. 380 km (236
miles) NE of Itanagar. Margherita,
64 km (40 miles) SW of Miao, the
entry point.  Director, Project
Tiger, Miao, (03807) 222 249. 
OctMar.  Travel permits
required (see p758).

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Siddharth Vihar. Tel (0360) 221
2276.  SunThu.  


Lower Subansiri district. 150 km (93
miles) NE of Itanagar.  12,300. 
Deputy Commissioners Office,
(03788) 224 255. Travel permits
required (see p758).

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Tribal people of eastern Arunachal Pradesh on the Burma Road



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Locally made bamboo baskets on sale in Shillongs Bara Bazaar

  
East Khasi Hills district. 127 km (79
miles) S of Guwahati.  132,900.

Meghalaya Tourism, 3rd
Secretariat, Lower Lachumiere,
(0364) 250 0736. Weiking Dance
(Apr/May).

 Museum of Entomology
Umsohsun Rd. Tel (09863) 021965.
 MonSat. 

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767<3(9/033:;(;065796=0+05. Hydari Park
Park  daily.   extra charges.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7012 and pp73031

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TIPS FOR DRIVERS


Length: 20 km (75 miles).
Stopping-off points: The tour
takes between 67 hours. Shillong
Peak, Cherrapunji (meals, toilets
available), Nohsngithiang Falls,
Nohkalikai Falls and Mawsmai
Caves are the best places to stop.
Getting around: Meghalaya
Tourism, (0364) 222 6054, and
several travel agencies run daily
tours from Shillong to Cherrapunji.
Take a torch to explore the caves.

Mawsmai Caves 6

$64,6-;/,:,
304,:;65,*(=,:
9<5469,;/(5
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Tour route
Other roads
National highway

Nohsngithiang Falls 7

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Gigantic stone megaliths
Pipes

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The Adis of Arunachal Pradesh" !


Intricate beadwork, crafted by
the Wanchos of Arunachal

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Ujjayanta Palace in Agartala, built in 1901

A chiefs house

   


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West Tripura district. 600 km (373


miles) S of Guwahati.  189,300.
 12 km (7 miles) N of town centre,
then bus or taxi.   Tripura
Tourism, Swet Mahal, Palace
Compound, (0381) 222 3893.

Aizawl district. 480 km (298 miles) SE


of Guwahati.  229,700.  35 km
(22 miles) W of town centre, then bus
or taxi.   Mizoram Tourism,
Bungkawn, (0389) 233 3475.
Travel permits required (see p758).

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Aizawl, stretching across a ridge

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7012 and pp73031



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40::,+C;/,#63696<5+0:05
SE of Guwahati.  217,300.
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Imphal, (0385) 232 1285.  Yaosang 6-;,590+05.)(9,)(*265;/,
(Feb/Mar), Lai Haraoba (Apr/May).
(.03, (507<90/69:,:&>6
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Bishnupur district. 48 km (30 miles)
S of Imphal.   For bookings on
Sendra Island contact Manipur
Tourism, (0385) 232 1285. 
Travel permits required (see p758).

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Floating islands of reed and humus with fishermens houses and moored boats, on Loktak Lake
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7012 and pp73031

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46+,950A,+5.(40 !(.(
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 State Museum
Tel (0370) 226 0133  MonSat.

public hols. 
The Baptist Church in Kohima, one of many churches in the area

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()3,>(99069:C),,:3(9=(,
E of Guwahati.  78,600.
(5++6.4,(;(9,-(=6<90;,:
Dimapur, 74 km (46 miles) NW
 &/,State Museum 24
of Kohima, then taxi or bus.  

 403,:569;/6-;/,)(A((9
Nagaland Tourism, (0370) 224 3124.
/(:(5,?*,33,5;(5;/967636.
Travel permits required (see p758).
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Kohima district. 74 km (46 miles)
NW of Kohima.  107,400.
  Tourist Office, near Nagaland
State Transport Office. Travel
permits required (see p758).

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Carved monoliths in Dimapur


erected by the Kachari kings

WESTERN
INDIA

INTRODUCING WESTERN INDIA 342349


RAJASTHAN 350407
GUJARAT 408431



           


 
 

 
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Rajasthani women in festive dress


at the Pushkar Fair

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Lachha paratha
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Pudina paratha
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Naan

A selection of breads from Rajasthan and Gujarat

LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

    



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Chandni Chowk, outside City
Palace. Tel (0141) 261 0494.
 daily.  public hols.
 free on Mon.  extra
charges.  

 

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STAR FEATURES

 
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 Samrat Yantra
 Jai Prakash Yantra



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Lakshmi Narayan Temple, a white marble addition to the Pink City

 Jawahar Kala Kendra


Jawaharlal Nehru Marg. Tel (0141)
270 5879.  daily.  

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 Moti Doongri Palace
Jawaharlal Nehru Marg.
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 Rambagh Palace
Bhawani Singh Rd. Tel (0141) 221
1919.  open to non-residents.

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The luxurious interior of Rambagh Palace, now a hotel

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312



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Jaipur district, 15 km (9 miles)


SW of Jaipur.

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KEY
Jaipur city centre
National highway
Major road
A sacred tank in Galta
0 kms
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25
25

 Galta
Jaipur district. 10 km (6 miles) E
of Jaipur.

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 Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
Jaipur district. Purana Ghat. 6 km (4
miles) E of Jaipur. Tel (0141) 264
0594.  daily. 

Marble statue of a Jain tirthankara at Sanganer's Sanghiji Temple


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

"-.89*77&(*),&7)*3<&81&.)
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Jaipur district. 8 km (5 miles) N of
Jaipur.  daily.

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Jaipur district. 8 km (5 miles) N of
 Jaigarh
14(&9.43+473).&3+.128
Jaipur.  daily.  public hols.

Jaipur district. 12 km (8 miles) NW of

"-*2&7'1*(*349&5-84+9-* Jaipur. Tel (0141) 267 1848. 


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Jaipur district. 9 km (6 miles) NW of
&3)2>9-414,.(&18(*3*8&3) 9<49*251*8&3)&5&1&(*
Jaipur. Tel (0141) 253 0293. 
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':.194;*7 >*&78&,4
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Jaipur district. 40 km (25 miles)
E of Jaipur.

daily.  public hols.   

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The ramparts of Jaigarh Fort, a feat of military engineering



           

  
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

STAR FEATURES

 Sheesh Mahal
 Ganesh Pol
 Shila Devi Temple

     



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Jaipur district.11 km (7 miles)
N of Jaipur. Tel (0141) 253 0293.
 8am5:30pm daily.  public
hols.    

  
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PLAN OF AMBER FORT

KEY

Area illustrated
7
9

Man Singhs Palace


5

Jaleb Chowk
4
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9-*.7(&5.9&1#*;*7&1-&;*1.889*5<*118
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The Township

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Panna Mian ka Kund$49-*
The Fort Complex
Diwan-i-Aam9-*85&(*+47
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Kesar Kyari Bagh, named after the rare saffron flowers once planted in its star-shaped flower beds
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

"    # $   



24897*2&70&'1*1*&)*7"&/&
#:7&/&17 
A +479.+.*)
Bharatpur district. 181 km (112 miles) 9-*(.9>4+-&7&95:7.3  
E of Jaipur.  204,500. 
&3):8*)9-*1449+742:,-&1
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2542.  Jaswant Mela (Oct).
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The moat and ramparts of Lohagarh



(411*,*<-.1*9-*49-*79<4
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Tel (05644) 22 8185.  FriWed.
public hols.  free on Mon.
 extra charges.

 
 
See pp3689.

 

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N of Bharatpur.   RTDC Hotel
9-*24897*2&70&'1*4+9-*8*
Saras, Bharatpur, (05644) 22 3700.
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 Holi (Mar), Jawahar Mela (Aug).
742&39.(8:22*77*97*&9+47
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 Police station
 Temple
 Accommodation

        



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Bharatpur district. 185 km (115
miles) E of Jaipur.  Bharatpur, 5
km (3 miles) N of entry point, then
taxi.  Bharatpur.  RTDC
Hotel Saras, Bharatpur, (05644) 22
3700. Deputy Chief Wildlife
Warden, (05644) 22 2777.
  extra charges.  Bicycles
& cycle-rickshaws available. 

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The elegant marble pavilion at Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

A page from the Gulistan

#'2/3'.'24'3+*',:+8
'.'4-/8#'2/3;-.'2
+36+8581('89.+/8=.5='9
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Jang54+5,36+858#.'.
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 City Palace
Near Collectorate.  daily. 
 City Palace Museum
 SatThu. public hols. 

Moosi Maharani ki
Chhatri
 SatThu. public hols. 
Bala Qila
 daily. Written permission not
required anymore. The visitors
name is entered in a register at the
office of the Superintendent of
Police, City Palace.
Tomb of Fateh Jang
Near railway station.  daily.

"    # $   



FESTIVALS OF
RAJASTHAN
Nagaur Cattle Fair $

Sariska Palace, a luxury hotel just outside the Tiger Reserve

  
 
 

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=/2*(5'89'4*658);6/4+9
Alwar.  Field Director, Project
 354-:.+(/8*9:.':)'4
Tiger Sanctuary, Sariska (0144) 284
(+965::+*'8+:.+)8+9:+*
1333.  SepJun.  extra for
9+86+4:+'-2+:.+-8+':4*/'4
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Elephant Festival '

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Sikar & Jhunjhunu districts. 115 km
(72 miles) NW from Jaipur to Sikar.
  Gangaur Festival (Mar/Apr),
Dussehra (Sept/Oct).

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

    

  



   
  
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gods and goddesses flying kites

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Length: 111 km (69 miles).


Stopping-off points: Mandawa,
Dundlod, Mukundgarh, Fatehpur
and Nawalgarh have good hotels.
Getting around: Petrol pumps are
at regular intervals on the main
road. A number of lesser roads lead
off from NH11 towards Jhunjhunu.
All of them have roadside eateries
which sell mineral water, hot and
cold drinks and snacks.

Sikar 1

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STAR SIGHTS

 Brahma Temple
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

     



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Ajmer district. 144 km (90 miles)
SW of Jaipur.  14,800. 
 RTDC Hotel Sarovar, (0145)
277 2040.  daily.
 Pushkar Fair (Oct/Nov). No
eggs, meat or alcohol is available
or allowed in Pushkar.

Camel at the Pushkar Fair

 
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Dharamshala

The Pushkar Fair

Mosque
Women at Sadar Bazaar

Fai

Rangji Temple

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oun

SADAR

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PUSHKAR LAKE

Chhatri


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Ajmer district. 135 km (84 miles)
SW of Jaipur.  485,200.  
 Rajasthan Tourism, near Khadim
Hotel, (0145) 262 7426.  Urs (Oct).

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SM Soni Marg.  daily. 
 Rajputana Museum
Near bus stand.  daily. 



Nagaur district. 137 km (85 miles)
NE of Jodhpur.  83,400. 
 Cattle Fair (Jan/Feb).

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The exuberantly decorated seven-arched screen at the Adhai-Din-ka-Jhonpra, Ajmer


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

!    " #   



    


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Bikaner district. 361 km (224 miles)
NW of Jaipur.  529,000. 
Dhola Maru Hotel, Pooran Singh
Circle, (0151) 222 6701.
Camel
Festival (Jan), Jambeshwar Festival
(Feb/Mar), Kolayat Fair (Nov).

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Jodhpur district. 150 km (93 miles)
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Jodhpur district. 331 km (206
miles) W of Jaipur.  846,500.
5 km (3 miles) S of city
centre. 
High Court
Rd, (0291) 254 5083.  Mon
Sat. JodhpurRajasthan
International Folk Festival (Oct),
Marwar Festival (Oct).
Umaid Bhavan Palace, a fusion of Rajput, Jain and Art Deco styles

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STAR SIGHTS

 Phool Mahal
 Moti Mahal

        



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Mehrangarh Fort and
Museum  daily. Museum
Trust, (0291) 254 8790.  
extra charges.    

The blue-washed houses of Brahmapuri village, clustered below


the ramparts of Mehrangarh Fort

Chokelao Palace*+31* !.


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312



#  ! " 

      

      


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Sachiya Mata Temple, Osian
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

   ! "   





   
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!*-%2

TIPS FOR DRIVERS


Length: 55 km (34 miles).
Getting around: Allow 67
hours for the trip. Refreshments
are available at Gudda Bishnoi,
Salawas and Kakuni. The heritage
hotels at Rohet and Luni (Fort
Chanwa) offer good food and are
pleasant places for a break.
Hotels and travel agencies in
Jodhpur can arrange taxis. A fourwheel drive is recommended.

Gudda Bishnoi 2

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Kakuni 4
Rohet 5


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KEY
Tour route
Other roads
River


0!,)
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0 km
0 miles

3
3



$  ! " 

      

 
  

VISITORS CHECKLIST

"3(%=%6)138)3984378-28,)",%6)7)68%-7%01)6
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* 
 Manik Chowk

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Jaisalmer district. 285 kms (177


miles) W of Jodhpur.  58,300.
  Tourist Reception
Centre, Station Rd, (02992) 25
2406.  Desert Festival (Feb),
Gangaur Festival (Mar/Apr).

8,)&%7)-877-<7836)=7+63;
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&98:-7-8367%6)78-00
%003;)(-2
 Nathmaljis Haveli
Near Gandhi Chowk. Local guides
can arrange visits for a fee.

9-08-2
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 Patwon ki Haveli
59-'/;-88)( ")0-%
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Gadisagar Lake, lined with ghats
;-8,&6)%8,8%/-2+-286-'%'=
%-7%01)6%663;%8
 Gadisagar Lake
SE of the city walls.

   ! "   



 
   
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JAISALMER IN JEOPARDY
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2!5%3()24-)04%&.13!-$3.6-
STAR SIGHTS

 Jain Temples
 Moti Mahal
The 12th-century Jaisalmer Fort, threatened by rising damp

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

 Dussehra Chowk

        

 
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Jaisalmer Fort. Rajasthan
Tourism, Station Rd, (02992) 25
2406.  daily.   extra
charges.    
Jain Temples  daily.  extra
charges. Gyan Bhandar  daily.

Annapurna Bhandar

6!2.1)')-!++83(%&.132
'1!-!1832'1.4-$
&+..1(!2!3%,/+%

Moti
Mahal

   
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Rani Mahal

 
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Manganiyar musicians, whose ballads recount Jaisalmers history

Bhattiani Rani Temple


2 km (1.3 miles) S of fort.  daily.

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Akal Fossil Park
 43-*7'749-*7.31&<8
17 km (11 miles) SE of Jaisalmer.
+:3*7&15>7*(1&34+
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bustard
)*38*+47*89
 Bada Bagh
7 km (4 miles) N of fort. 

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Khuri
40 km (25 miles) SW of Jaisalmer.

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 Desert National Park
43 km (27 miles) W of Jaisalmer. For
permission, contact Collectors Office,
Jaisalmer, (02992) 25 2201.  
Jeep & Camel safaris.

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&3) 3).&3,&?*11*

  
Barmer district. 160 km (99 miles) SE
of Jaisalmer.
  Rajasthan
Tourism, Khartal, (02982) 22 2956.
 Tilwara Cattle Fair (Jan/Feb), Thar
Desert Festival (Mar).

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 Lodurva
15 km (9 miles) NW of Jaisalmer.

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Visitors on a camel safari near Jaisalmer

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

"    # $   



    


    
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&74:3)&.8&12*7.8'*89
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84+9*39-**++*(984+9-*(&2*181:7(-.3,,&.9

TIPS FOR RIDERS


Duration: Two days and two
nights. Day 1: Jaisalmer to
Lodurva via Bada Bagh and
Ramkunda, 18 km (11 miles).
Day 2: Lodurva to Sam via Kahala
and Kanoi, 20 km (12 miles); Sam
to Jaisalmer (by jeep), 45 km (28
miles). Overnight stays: Camps
at Lodurva and Sam. For more
details on safaris see p751; for
tour operators see p755.

Jaisalmer 1

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Bada Bagh 2

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b

Ramkunda 3

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Kanoi 6

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0 km

0 miles

Kahala 5

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Lodurva 4

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Sam 7
5

KEY
Tour route
Other roads
National highway

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The City Palace, Udaipur (see pp400401), reflected in the waters of Lake Pichola



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The intricately carved Vimala Vasahi Temple
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.9,(;Adinath Temple
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View of the Jain temple complex at Ranakpur
*(9=,+50*/,:*65;(0504(.,:

 


 

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

"    # $   



The winding ramparts of the indomitable Kumbhalgarh Fort

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A view of Lake Pichola, with the Jag


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Fateh Sagar Rd.

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Jag Niwas, or the Lake Palace, in its magical setting on Lake Pichola

 Saheliyon ki Bari
Saheli Marg.  daily. 

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See pp400401.

 Jagdish Mandir
Moti Chhohta Rd.  daily.
Bagore ki Haveli Gangaur Ghat.
Tel (0294) 25 3858 

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

"    # $   



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Udaipur district. 269 km (167
miles) S of Jodhpur.  389,400.
25 km (16 miles) E of city
centre.  
Rajasthan
Tourism, Suraj Pol, (0294) 241
1535. Gangaur Festival
(Mar/Apr), Mewar Festival (Apr).

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

#    $ %   



VISITORS CHECKLIST
City Palace Complex
Tel (0294) 252 8016.  daily.
  restricted.  Museum
 extra charges.  
Fateh Prakash  open to nonresidents. Shiv Niwas  open
to non-residents.

A view of the City Palace, on the eastern shore of Lake Pichola

Shambhu Niwas

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Shiv Niwas

Kanch Burj, with its dazzling


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A view of the impressive Chittorgarh Fort, spread over a rocky hill


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

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Kota district. 261 km (162 miles) S
of Jaipur.  696,000. 
 Hotel Chambal, (0744) 232 7695.
  Dussehra Mela (Sep/Oct).

The 11th-century temple of the Sun


God, in Jhalrapatan



Jhalawar district. 323 km (201 miles)
S of Jaipur.  48,100.   Hotel
Chandrawati, (07432) 23 0081. 
Chandrabhaga Cattle Fair (Oct/Nov).

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Ebony-and-ivory door in the 17thcentury City Palace, Kota



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View of Bundi, nestled in a narrow valley of the Aravalli Hills

  

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7025 and pp7312

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The Maharana Celebrating Gangaur (1715)

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Vinayak, Sawai Madhopur, (07
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VISITORS CHECKLIST

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 8:30am7pm daily.
mid-Junmid-Oct.

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Ahmedabad district. 545 km (338


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 3,515,400.  10 km (6
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 HK House, Ashram Rd,
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 Uttarayan (14 Jan),
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GALLERY GUIDE


     
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

      



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Sarabhai Foundation, Shahi
Bagh, N of Delhi Gate.
Tel (079) 2286 8172.
 ThuTue.  public hols.
  10am12:30pm,
2:305:30pm. Garden tour by
appointment only.  
Sarabhai Foundation Galleries
 ThuTue.  public hols.
A view of the Calico Museum, showing the richly carved wooden faade of
the old haveli in which it is housed

First
floor

 
$'*,$1%*'!*/!, 
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Export textile galleries
Court textiles
2

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Gallery of shawls
Mughal costumes
Jain and Vaishnav textiles

STAR EXHIBITS
The haveli faade

Outer
gate

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 Mughal Tent
 Sharad Utsav
Pichhwai

 Phulkari

Kutch and Sindh embroidery


Kathiawar embroidery
Textiles of Orissa
Madhubani quilts
Phulkari from Punjab, Kantha
from Bengal
Tie-and-dye gallery



            

 
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Local women at the stepwell, which is


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

STAR FEATURES

 The First Well


 The First Landing
 Wall Niches

      



VISITORS CHECKLIST


($%$#"#!
&$)#'(% %#%
!# !%#!%$
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Gandhinagar district. 17 km (11


miles) N of Ahmedabad.  Taxis
and autos are the best options
from Ahmedabad.  daily. 
flash photography is prohibited.

One of the three


main entrances

 
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Rani ni Vav in Patan, one of Indias largest vavs



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Ahmedabad district. 60 km (37 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad.
Viramgam, 35
km (22 miles) N of entry point, then
taxi.  Viramgam.  Conservator
of Forests (Wildlife), Gandhinagar,
(079) 952717223 500. 
permit needed from Forest
Department to enter sanctuary.

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*6+*B7.*;+B6*-.*7

 

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

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Environs
Exquisitely carved images of Hindu deities at Rani ni Vav, Patan



  
See pp41819.


Mehsana district. 140 km (87 miles)
from Ahmedabad.  112,050.

  Jatar Fair (Sep/Oct).

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Mehsana district. 128 km (80 miles) N
of Ahmedabad.  53,600.


B270*5870=1.73>72;2?.;
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Traditional houses in Siddhpur with


finely carved faades

PATOLA WEAVING

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patola sari
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Vadodara district. 113 km (70 miles)
SE of Ahmedabad.  1,306,100.
8 km (5 miles) NE of town centre.

Gujarat Tourism, (0265)
242 7489.  Vadodara Municipal
Corporation, (0265) 243 3116.

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'44*5"'7')+4/)6/2+<'8
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Fateh Singh Museum</9./4
9.+6'2')+-75:4*8.'8'7'7+

The magnificent faade of the Laxmi Vilas Palace

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

 $   !  #

 
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Mehsana district. 119 km (74
miles) NW of Ahmedabad.
Mehsana, 25 km (16 miles) away,
then taxi or bus. 
(02734)
28 4334.  daily.   
Modhera Dance Festival (Jan).


#
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$"# 
 
   
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Sabha Mandapa9.+

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(+':9/,:26'71/49.+
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62'4+9'7/:3'4*9.+
Vadodara Museum
and Picture Gallery

Radha and Madhava

'7+9.+Kirti Mandir
9.+3+35
7/'25,%'*5*'7'8
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'4/489/9:9+5,
4'9/54'2+3/4+4)+

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by Raja Ravi Varma
+)2+)9/))522+)9/545,
:-.'23/4/'9:7+8:756+'4
 Laxmi Vilas Palace
5/26'/49/4-8'4*75>'2
Tel (0265) 243 1819.  TueSun.
'79/,')98 7/*+5,62')+-5+895 Visits by prior appointment only. 
/98)522+)9/545,897/1/4-
 Maharaja Fateh Singh
(754?+8,753159'')+497+
Museum
5,'/4):29:7+/49.+ 9.
Tel (0265) 242 6372.  TueSun. 
)+49:7>9.+7459'(2+8/-.98

 Vadodara Museum and

Picture Gallery
Tel (0265) 279 3801.  10:30am
5:30pm TueSun. 

Environs

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Ahmedabad.  2,433,800.  
 1/847 Athugar St, Nanpura,
(0261) 247 8586.  MonSat.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

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FESTIVALS OF
GUJARAT
Uttarayan  

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Modhera Dance Festival

The gateway to St Jeromes Fort


in Nani Daman

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Daman Union Territory. 390 km (242
:.+458:.5,:.+,58:',,58*9
miles) S of Ahmedabad.  35,750.
,/4+</+=95,:.+;2,5,
 Vapi, 10 km (6 miles) SE of
'3('?
Daman, then taxi or bus.  
St Jeromes Fort/4'4/
Nani Daman, (0260) 225 5104.
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View of the harbour below St Jeromes fort in Nani Daman, Daman

Bangles on sale at Tarnetar Fair

Tarnetar Fair  

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Bhavnagar district. 200 km (124 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad.  511,000.
8 km (5 miles) SE of city centre.  

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 Velavadar National Park


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 0);;078;;8-+1)41B16/ Bhavnagar district. 52 km (32 miles) SW
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Tel (0278) 242 4516.
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 10am6:30pm MonSat.
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The 19th-century Nilambagh Palace in Bhavnagar, set in a huge garden


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

Sculptures of Jain tirthankaras


along a temple corridor, Palitana

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Diu Union Territory. 418 km (260
miles) S of Ahmedabad.  21,600.
 Delwada, 8 km (5 miles) N of
town centre.  Diu Jetty,
(02875) 225 2653.

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The abandoned seaside fort at Diu, dating to the 16th century

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Junagadh district. 406 km (252 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad. 

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THE MOON GOD AND SOMNATH


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The Somnath Temple, visited
*=14<)$01>)<-584-)<$756)<0
by devotees of Shiva



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Junagadh district. 368 km (229 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad. Entry point:
Sasan Gir.   For permits
contact Field Director, Sinh Sadan,
Sasan Gir (02877) 28 5541.  midOctmid-Jun.   extra charges.
 Jeeps available.

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An Asiatic lioness basking in the


sun in Sasan Gir Sanctuary

A view of Palitanas 1,008 Jain temples, clustered on top of Shatrunjaya Hill



(  $ %  #       

The impressive Jain temple complex on Girnar Hill, just outside Junagadh

 


6-):<0-+1<A;:)14?)A;<)<176 1;*-41->-,<70)>-,1-,0-:-
%0-
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<0-57;<67<)*4-7.?01+01;
Junagadh district. 393 km (244 miles)
Temple)<<0-;=551<1;>-:A
<0- Mahabat Maqbara?1<0
SW of Ahmedabad.  168,700. 
;84-6,1,;14>-:,77:;
878=4):?1<06-?4A?-,;?07
 Majwadi Darwaza, (0285) 262
=6)/),0;5)16)<<:)+<176
+75-;--316/*4-;;16/;.7:
1201.  MonSat. Bhavnath
07?->-:1;Girnar Hill35
+762=/)4*41;;
Fair (Feb/Mar), Kartik Mela (Oct/Nov).
 514-;-);<7.<0-+1<A6
-@<16+<>74+)67<01;0);*--6  Durbar Hall Museum
=6)/),0?01+05-)6;B 4, )074A;1<-.7:=,,01;<;)16; Tel (0285) 262 1685.  ThuTue.
 2nd & 4th Sat. 
7:<D<)3-;1<;6)5-.:75<0- )6,16,=;;16+-<0- :,
)6+1-6<.7:<7.&8):37<*=14<
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76)84)<-)=)<<0-
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  .<01/00144
Porbandar district. 404 km (251 miles)
<7?6%0-.7:<1;
6:7=<-1;)6
Ashokan Rock Edict SW of Ahmedabad.  133,100. 
;=::7=6,-,*A
  MonSat. (0286) 221 085.
,)<16/<7

5);;1>-?)44;7>-:
 extra charges.
 <0)<

5.<01/016
+76>-A; 58-:7:
84)+-;)6,)5
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Kirti Mandir Museum?1<0
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THE NAWAB OF JUNAGADH AND HIS DOGS
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with his favourite dog
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

 &   #  %

  

.:7501;;8--+0-;)6,

?:1<16/;%0-+1<A0);41<<4--4;-
<7)<<:)+<>1;1<7:;)6,16:-+-6< Jamnagar district. 308 km (191 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad.  447,800.
A-):;1<0);/)16-,<0-,=*
17=;,1;<16+<1767.07=;16/
 10 km (6 miles) W of city.  
47+)45).1),76;6<-:-;<16/4A  MonSat.
4):/-;-+<176;7.=2):)<;
,1);87:1+878=4)<176
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:=4-:;?-:-+)44-,0-4,8=*41+
Museum, Porbandar
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Jamnagar district. 453 km (282 miles) W .:750-:-):-?7:<0-@847:16/
of Ahmedabad.   Janmash);<0-+1<A1;.)57=;.7:1<;<1-
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 Lakhota Fort Museum
16,=814/:15;.47+3<7
 ThuTue.  2nd & 4th Sat.
?):3)<0:7=/07=<<0-A-):


%0-+1<A;5)16<-584-1;<0-
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Environs
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+):>-, Rukmini Temple=14<
contact the Park Director, Jamnagar,
16<0-
<0+-6<=:A1<1;
(0288) 255 2077. 
,-,1+)<-,<7:1;06);?1.-

 



 
Rajkot district. 216 km (134 miles)
W of Ahmedabad.  966,700.
 1 km (0.6 miles) NW of city
centre.   Bhavnagar House,
(0281) 223 4507.  MonSat.

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 Watson Museum
Tel (0281) 222 3065.  9am1pm,
36pm ThuTue.  2nd & 4th Sat.
  extra charges.

Environs
Wankaner Palace 35


514-;67:<0-);<7.#)237<1;
)6-+4-+<1+51@7.=/0)4
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Statue of the first principal,


Rajkumar College, Rajkot



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>(:;,4769(903@*36:,++6>5
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Gujarat Tourism, Toran Rann
(-;,9,?;,5:0=,9,56=(;065$/, 4<:,<4
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796:7,96<:7905*,3@:;(;,6-
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Labourers at an earthquake relocation center, Bhuj
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7056 and p733

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The tranquil seafront at Mandvi, once a busy port
;/96<./;/,:,(:65:05
:,(9*/6--66+

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Bhuj district. 60 km (37 miles) SW of
4(92,;:(5+-,:;0=0;0,:(5+
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Bhuj.  14,300. 


5+0(5.(A,33,
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Dhrangadhra and
The Asiatic wild ass,
;:36=,3@.(9+,5+9(>05.
Dasada(9,)6;/
=,:;05.>(;,9
found
in
Kutch
9664(5+966-;67;,99(*,(9,
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*,5;<9@-69;(5+(=033(.,
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Kutch district. Entry points:
:*/663 9*/0;,*;<9(33@(
7905;,9:79(*;0:,;/,09*9(-;
Dhrangadhra, 130 km (81 miles) W of $/,-(403@6-(:(+(:-694,9
)3,5+6-36*(3(5+<967,(5
:;@3,:0;:-(E(+,0:+,*69(;,+ Ahmedabad, & Dasada, 117 km (73 -,<+(3*/0,-:(99(5.,(**64
miles) NW of Ahmedabad.
>0;/*/,9<)0*<;*/)6@:
46+(;065(5+.<0+,+;6<9:6-
Dhrangadhra, 20 km (12 miles) S
/63+05.>05,.6)3,;:C(9*/0
;/,"(55/9(5.(+/9(*(70;(3
6-(-694,97905*,3@:;(;,/(:
;,*;"(4:05/(3(4:;6<*/05. of park.  Dhrangadhra & Dasada,
:(3<;,;6/0:(+67;,+*6<5;9@ then bus or jeep. Gujarat Tourism, (-05, ;/*,5;<9@7(3(*,(5+
Ashram Rd, Ahmedabad, (079) 2657
()(A((9>0;/05;,9,:;05.
Vijay Vilas Palace
8046. For permits & tours contact
*63650(3)<03+05.:$6<9:6-
 ThuTue.   extra charges.
Forest Office, Dhrangadhra.  
;/,:(5*;<(9@*(5),(99(5.,+
 extra charges.
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Bhuj district. 250 km (155 miles) NE of <1(9(;;/,0;;3,"(556-
Bhuj.  For permission contact
<;*//(:(:;(92(5+<5-69
the Superintendant of Police, Bhuj,
.,;;()3,),(<;@C05:<530./;
(02832) 25 0444.  daily.
;/,:(3;*9@:;(3:05;/,:(5+
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source of livelihood in Kutch
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THE RABARI BHOONGA


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SOUTHWESTERN
INDIA

INTRODUCING SOUTHWESTERN
INDIA 434441
MUMBAI 442463
MAHARASHTRA 464483
GOA 484509
KARNATAKA 510545



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A view of the Kings Bathing Ghat surrounded by


verdant paddy fields, Srirangapattana, Karnataka



 

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Little fishing boats in Mumbais harbour, against a backdrop of the citys skyscrapers

     

      

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THE PARSI COMMUNITY IN MUMBAI

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Nepalese and Tibetan Art

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Maritime History

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 Maitreya Buddha
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7068 and pp7345

GALLERY GUIDE
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7068 and pp7345

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7068 and pp7345

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Walkeshwar, Malabar Hill.

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Khotachiwadis narrow lanes and


balconied houses

  


Bounded by Jagannath Shankarshet
Rd & Raja Ram Mohan Roy Rd,
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% $  '  # $  "       

  



N of Mahim Bay. Mount St Mary


Basilica Mount Mary Rd.
Tel (022) 2642 3152.  daily.
 Bandra fte (Sep).

Goregaon East.  Contact Film


Citys Public Relations Office (022)
2840 1533.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7068 and pp7345

  
 


 %    



    

VISITORS CHECKLIST

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carved in stone
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1

0 metres
0 yards

9 km (6 miles) NE of Mumbai. 
from Gateway of India at 9am. 
for ferries, (022) 2202 6364. 
WedMon.    Elephanta
Music & Dance Festival (Feb).

20
20

The Elephanta caves, cut into the


cliff high above the water

7
8
5

9
6
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PLAN OF ELEPHANTA CAVES


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Exploring Elephanta

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The 5.5-m (18-ft) high Mahesamurti, dominating the cave temple



             


      
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ENTERTAINMENT
GUIDES, TICKETS AND
VENUES
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NIGHTCLUBS AND BARS

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DIRECTORY
ANTIQUES AND
JEWELLERY
Palazzo

Melange
Altamount Rd.
Tel (022) 2385 4492.

Crossroads Mall.

Shyam Ahuja

Tel (022) 2351 5890.

Crossroads Mall.
Tel (022) 2351 5890.

Phillips Antiques
SP Mukherjee Chowk.
Tel (022) 2202 0564.

Tribhovandas
Bhimji Zaveri
Zaveri Bazaar.
Tel (022) 2342 5001.

Rhythm House

CINEMA

Kala Ghoda.
Tel (022) 2284 2835.

Metro

ENTERTAINMENT
INFORMATION

Regal
www.explocity.com

HANDICRAFTS
AND GIFTS
Bombay Store

ENTERTAINMENT
VENUES
British Council
Nariman Point.
Tel (022) 2282 3530.

Chimanlals

Jehangir Art Gallery

Fort Area.
Tel (022) 2207 7717.

Fort Area.
Tel (022) 2284 3989.

Abraham & Thakore

Cottage Industries
Emporium

NGMA

Tel (022) 5638 5486.

Cotton World
Mandlik Rd, Colaba.
Tel (022) 2283 3294.

Ensemble
Great Western Bldg, Shahid
Bhagat Singh Marg.
Tel (022) 2287 2883.

Fantasia
Oberoi Shopping Centre.

Chhatrapati Shivaji M Rd.


Tel (022) 2202 6564.

Contemporary Arts
and Crafts
Napean Sea Rd.
Tel (022) 2363 1979.

Kala Ghoda.
Tel (022) 2285 2457.

NCPA
Nariman Point.
Tel (022) 2283 4500.

Nehru Centre

Inshallah
Maashallah

Worli.
Tel (022) 2496 4676.

Colaba.
Tel (022) 2204 9495.

Prithvi Theatre

Joy Shoes

Shyama Prasad Mukherjee


Chowk.
Tel (022) 2202 1017.

Sterling

Western India House, PM


Rd, Fort Area.
Tel (022) 2288 5048.

TEXTILES AND
FASHION

The Courtyard, Colaba.

MG Rd,
Dhobi Talao.
Tel (022) 2203 0303.

Hazarimal Somani Marg.


Tel (022) 2207 5187.

HERITAGE TOURS
Bombay Heritage
Walks
Tel (022) 2834 4622.

NIGHTCLUBS AND
BARS
Athena
Minoo Desai Marg,
Colaba.
Tel (022) 2280 5155.

Fire & Ice


Parel.
Tel (022) 2498 0555.

Janaki Kutir,
Juhu.
Tel (022) 2614 9546.

Insomnia
Taj Hotel, Apollo Bunder.
Tel (022) 5665 3366.

Tel (022) 2284 6369.

Taj Hotel, Apollo Bunder.


Tel (022) 5665 3366.

Indian Textiles

Rasulbhai Adamji

Shanmukhananda
Hall

Not Just Jazz by


The Bay

Taj Hotel, Apollo Bunder.

Colaba.
Tel (022) 2202 1267.

Kings Circle.
Tel (022) 2401 5164.

Marine Drive.
Tel (022) 2285 1876.

Tel (022) 2202 8783.

 

  !            





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View of the votive stupa in the late 5th-century chaitya hall, Cave 19, at Ajanta



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Raigarh district. 108 km (67 miles) S


of Mumbai.   from Gateway of
India, Mumbai, to Mandve, 18 km (11
miles) N of Alibag, then bus.

Raigarh district. 185 km (115 miles)


S of Mumbai.  from Gateway of
India, Mumbai to Mandve, 120 km
(74 miles) N of Murud, then bus.
 from Rajpuri to Janjira Fort.

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Ratnagiri district. 365 km (227 miles) S


of Mumbai.  Ratnagiri, 22 km (14
miles) S of Ganapatipule, then bus.
  Gauri Ganapati (Sep/Oct).

Environs
Kihim Beach35514-;

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The Swayambhu Ganapati Temple, at the base of a hill in Ganapatipule

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7089 and pp7367

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Intricate clay images ! 

! "" !"& !


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See also features on Hindu Mythology (see pp245), Shiva (see p566) and Vishnu (see p679).



% $  '  # $  "       

Colourful fishing boats docked off the Malvan coast

 


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7089 and pp7367

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Panhala Fort in the picturesque


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Osho International Commune

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Vishram Bagh Wada, a Peshwa palace in the heart of the old city

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7089 and pp7367

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railway station.

The Buddhist chaitya griha at Karla Cave, near Lonavla

 


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Pune district. 62 km (39 miles) NW
of Pune.  55,700.   Karla
Cave  Maharashtra Tourism,
Karla, (02114) 282 230.  daily. 
Bhaja Caves 

Splendid views at Porcupine Point, also known as Sunset Point, Matheran


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7089 and pp7367

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Carved stonework, Damri Mosque

  
Ahmadnagar district. 140 km (87 miles)
NE of Pune.  307,500.  

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HIKING IN THE SAHYADRIS


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The rugged ranges of the Sahyadri Hills



FESTIVALS OF
MAHARASHTRA
Janmashtami " "

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Janmashtami in Mumbai

Naga Panchami  "

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Ganesha Chaturthi

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The holy tank of Ramkund, Nasik



Nasik district. 187 km (116 miles) NE
of Mumbai.  1,077,000.  
 Maharashtra Tourism, (0253) 257
0059.  Kumbh Mela (every 12
years).

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6<0-4-.<*)637.<0-0)6
:1>-:1;<0-Dargah of Baba
Aurangabad district. 404 km (251
Shah Musafir)#=.1;)16<
miles) NE of Mumbai.  873,000. 
?07?);=:)6/B-*;
10 km (6 miles) E of town centre, then
;81:1<=)4/=1,-$0-+7584-@
taxi.    Maharashtra Tourism, +76<)16;);5)4457;9=-)
Station Rd East, (0240) 233 1513.
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Detail of the entrance
door, Bibi ka Maqbara .)5-,.7:1<;)6+1-6<
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Environs
Pandu Lena35 514-;

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Bibi ka Maqbara in Aurangabad, an imitation of Agras Taj Mahal

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7089 and pp7367

    "  #  $ " 

 



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E of Aurangabad.  Bus tours are
Balakot;-8):)<-,*A)57)<
offered by Maharashtra Tourism,
76+-16.-;<-,*A+:7+7,14-;
Aurangabad, (0240) 233 1513. Taxis
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& jeeps also available from
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The Chand Minar, once covered in
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8:7>1,-;)++-;;16<7Kataka
glazed Persian tiles, Daulatabad
*A;->-65=;1+1)6;



    

           


  
 
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Aurangabad district. 30 km (19)
miles) NW of Aurangabad.
 Jeeps are also available at
Aurangabad & tour operators also
organize trips.  TueSun, (all
caves).   Flash photography
is prohibited. Light is best in the
afternoon.  Take packed lunch, a
torch, wear comfortable shoes and
a sun hat.  Ellora Festival (Dec).


&*"(-,0#-"&)-.,,#(-"#+-+.(%,
++/&&&)(!-"&)0+,-)+1
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monasteries

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STAR FEATURES

 The Roof
 Lakshmi with
Elephants

 Ravana Shaking
Mount Kailasa

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View of the dramatic Ellora escarpment with its seasonal waterfall

;49.;*89:5&51&(*):3)*7&
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9-&3)9-(*39:7.*8&3)
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)*;*1452*39Cave 1447
&;&3&0.-&.(439&.38.2
57*88.;*8(:159:7*84+)*.9.*8
+7429-*.3):5&39-*43
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1547&8-&;&9&7&&184-&8
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Cave 2947-:2&7*3&&7*

49-*7.257*88.;*(&;*8
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47--49&&.1&8&.8&82&11
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ELLORA
CAVES

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0 metres
0 yards

The upper-storey hall, Vishwakarma (Cave 10)


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7089 and pp7367

300
300

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AJANTA
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0 metres

Faade of Cave 19, Ajanta, with a


large horseshoe-shaped window

  

0 yards

100

100

9>5*8A!57&>*7 &!-&8&+&C&)*
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Aurangabad district. 110 km (68 miles) 9*7.*8"-*!-&;*
NE of Aurangabad.  from
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Aurangabad.  TueSun.  
(41:2389-&9).;.)*9-*85&(* &1&9*7&)).9.43 9-(*39:7>
flash photography is prohibited.   .394&(*397&1-&11<.9-&;49.;* &3).982:7&18&7*+742'49-
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89:5&9-*4'/*(94+;*3*7&9.43 5*7.4)8Cave 10.89-4:,-994
available from Aurangabad. Take a
"-*8.)*&.81*89-&97:3&74:3) '*/&39&841)*89(&;*&3).8
43*4+.98+.3*89!
packed lunch, bottled water, torch, and
9-*-&11<*7*:8*)+477.9:&1
wear comfortable shoes and a sun hat. (.7(:2&2':1&9.43"-*
&;*8 94
&7*1&9* 9-
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'*143,8949-*247*&:89*7*
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3)A 89(*39:7>):7.3,
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The moving Parinirvana, depicting the passing of the Buddha, Cave 26



                


 
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Avalokitesvara")%

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A scene depicting a king, possibly
the Vakataka ruler Harisena,
greeting a Persian embassy

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CAVE 2
$($',$) -$").*0 .#$-

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CAVE 16
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Nandas wife, Sundari, fainting upon


hearing of his conversion

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$*("$,$, 

CAVE 17
#$-0 #-.# '," -.)/( ,
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Nagpur district. 520 km (323 miles) NE
of Aurangabad.  2,051,500. 
10 km (6 miles) S of city centre, then
bus or taxi.    Maharashtra
Tourism, (0712) 253 3325.  Pola
(Jun/Jul), Kalidasa Festival (Nov).

"/:;':+*54:.+('4195,:.+
'-8/<+8'-6;8='9:.+
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Buldana district. 130 km (81 miles)
8'36'4:)533+8)/'2+>625/:' )5;4:8?958'4-+-85=/4-
E of Aurangabad.  Jalna, 83 km
:/54,58:/3(+8254-=/:./:9 )'6/:'2/9:58/)'22?/:='9:.+
)'6/:'25,:.+'(58/-/4'254*
(52 miles) W of Lonar, then bus. 
+2;9/<+ :/-+89:.+8+9+8<+
from Aurangabad, taxis also available. /9.53+:5'(5;:2+56'8*9 :8/('29;4:/2/:='9)'6:;8+*(?
:.+'8':.'.5492+9
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9.58+9#.+)8':+8/98/)./4
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 '-6;8:5=4/9(;/2:'85;4*
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Sitabaldi Fort=./)./9
#.+8+'8+',+=8+9:.5;9+9
Chikhaldhara2?/4-
13
+4)/8)2+*(?'*++635'::/9
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56+4:5:.+6;(2/)542?54
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Palace=./).='9*+9:85?+*
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52*)/:?2/+:.+Chhatris58
Amravati district. 400 km (249 miles)
3+358/'295,:.+.5492+
NE of Aurangabad.  Amravati,
1/4-9=./2+'4;3(+85,
100 km (62 miles) SE of entry point.
)5254/'2(;/2*/4-9'8+9/:;':+*
Maharashtra Tourism, organizes buses
/4:.+=+9:+846'8:5,'-6;8
or jeeps from Amravati to the park. 
354-:.+359:45:+=58:.?
For bookings contact the Field Director,
'8+:.+/-.5;8:  B

(0721) 266 2792.  DecMay. 
'4*:.+4-2/)'4':.+*8'2
5,22"'/4:9  
#.+ 850+):#/-+8 !+9+8<+5,
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+2-.':=./).3+'49
Ramtek 13
3/2+9
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Melghat Tiger Reserve
'4*:.+,58:54:.+/225,

 

   
   

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp7089 and pp7367

    !  "  # ! 



Environs

#.+'9.8'35,'4*./9
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Baskets of juicy oranges on sale in Nagpurs thriving market

Sholapur district. 250 km (155 miles)


SE of Pune.  91,500.   
Ashadh Ekadashi Fair (Jul).

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3'*+,'35;9'9:.+
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to Sevagram. Tel (07152) 284 753.
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 58-85;6
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The spartan interior of Mahatma Gandhis ashram at Sevagram, near Wardha

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
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Coconut groves and rice fields surrounding a village chapel in Goa

Major road
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Avenida Dom Joao Crasto. Tel (0832)
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The Church of Our Lady of the


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Church Square. Tel (0832) 242 6939.
 daily.  (English) 8am, MonSat;
8.30am, Sun.

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View of the the riverside Secretariat at Panaji, with its tiled roof and colonial faade
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp70911 and pp7378



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18><.-27=1.#=*=.><.>6
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30 km (19 miles) S of town centre,
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then bus or taxi. Margao, 33
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*+*7-87.-+>25-270<$1.
GTDC Trionora Apartments,
9*?2528727=1.,.7=;.@*<
(0832) 222 6515.  Feast of
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Our Lady (Dec); Carnival (Feb).
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Malaca Rd. Tel (0832) 222
Environs
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public hols.
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 St Sebastians Chapel
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Fontainhas & So Tom. St
Sebastians Chapel  am only.
So Tom Church  am only.
Fundao de Oriente Library
Tel (0832) 243 6108.  SunFri.
Velha Goa Galeria Tel (0832)
242 6628.  MonSat.


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North Goa district (Bardez taluka). 16
km (10 miles) NW of Panaji.  
GTDC Tourist Resort, (0832) 227 6024.

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A woman selling sarongs at the Anjuna flea market

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp70911 and pp7378

  



   
  
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Mayem Lake 46625.<

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North Goa district (Bardez taluka).
17 km (11 miles) N of Panaji.
 Chapora village.
The faade of St Jeromes Church
(Our Lady of Miracles), Mapusa

  

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 40,150.    GTDC Hotel,
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Shack restaurant on Morgim Beach, a common sight in Goa







For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp70911 and pp7378

 ! 

A fisherman casting his net at


Querim Beach

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North Goa district (Pernem taluka).
42 km (26 miles) N of Panaji. 
 every half hour from Querim.

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Tel (0832) 220 1234 to arrange a visit.
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50 km (31 miles) N of Panaji.
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Carnival king on a float

FESTIVALS OF GOA
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Masked dancers, Carnival

Shigmotsav (Shigmo)

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A holy cross on top of a knoll, Arambol Beach
Seagulls flocking around the days catch at Arambol Beach



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VISITORS CHECKLIST

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North Goa district (Tiswadi taluka).


9 km (6 miles) E of Panaji. 
Karmali, 9 km (6 miles) S of Old
Goa.  or taxi from Panaji. 
GTDC, Old Goa Tourist Hotel,
behind Police Station, near MG
Statue, (0832) 228 5327.  Feast
of St Francis Xavier (3 Dec). The
Archaeological Survey of Indias
booklet on Old Goa is available at
the Archaeological Museum.

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ST FRANCIS XAVIER (15061552)


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Altar of
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STAR FEATURES

 Main Altar
 Tomb of St Francis
Xavier

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
North Goa district (Tiswadi
taluka). Rua das Naus de Ormuz,
Old Goa. Tel (0832) 228 5790.
 daily.  during mass. 
 All services are in Konkani:
7am & 8am, MonSat;
8am & 9:15am, Sun.
Art Gallery Professed House.
 daily.

 

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Senate Square. Tel (0832) 228 4710.
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the central nave, S Cathedral

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 Archaeological Museum
Convent of St Francis of Assisi.
Tel (0832) 228 5333.  SatThu. 

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From right to left, S Cathedral, Church of St Francis of Assisi and Church of Our Lady of the Rosary in Old Goa
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp70911 and pp7378

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WHERE TO SEE
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A thatch-roofed beach shack,


Palolem Beach



 
South Goa district (Salcete taluka).
37 km (23 miles) S of Margao. 

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Visitors cycling on the sands at Colva, Goas longest beach


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp70911 and pp7378



    

           

  
 
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STAR FEATURES

 The Chapel
 The Ballroom
 The Hallway

  



VISITORS CHECKLIST

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Church Square, Chandor (Salcete


taluka). 20 km (12 miles) E of Margao. Menezes Braganza Wing
Tel (0832) 278 4201; Braganza
Pereira Wing Tel (0832) 278
4227. Admission to both wings
only by prior appointment. 
  Donations appreciated.

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GARDEN CITY

The magnificent Vidhana Soudha,


housing the Karnataka Secretariat

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

  "   $   



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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Bangalore district. 1,033 km (642
miles) S of Mumbai. 
4,292,500. 9 km (6 miles)
E of city centre, then bus or taxi.
  Govt of India Tourist
Office, 48 Church St, (080) 2558
5417; Karnataka Tourism, Badami
House, NRS Square, (080) 2227
5869.
Karaga (Apr),
Kadalekaye Parishe (Nov/Dec).

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The spacious, 19th-century Glass House at Lalbagh, with its intricate cast-iron frame
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

  #

 %   



   

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Varma showing a woman in her finery

A large cobra head !$!" 

  


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Devotees congregating at the


Vaidyeshvara Temple, Talakad


 
Mysore district. 50 km (30 miles) SE of
Mysore.   Panchalinga
Darshana (at intervals of 412 years).

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Representations of Hindu deities at the Keshava Temple

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

  #

 %   



FESTIVALS IN
KARNATAKA
Banashankari Temple Fair

Mural depicting a battle at the Daria Daulat Bagh, Srirangapattana

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Caparisoned elephant at the


Dasara celebrations, Mysore



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Mysore district. 140 km (87 miles) SW
of Bangalore.  742,500.

KSTDC Transport Wing, Hotel Maurya
Yatri Niwas, 2 Jhansi Laxmi Bai Rd,
(0821) 242 3652.  Vairamudi Festival (Mar/Apr), Feast of St Philomena
(Aug), Royal Dasara (Sep/Oct).

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

     !   



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Ramvilas Rd. Tel (0821) 242
2620.  daily, 10am5pm. 
    Royal Dasara
(Sep/Oct).

View of the Amba Vilas Palace, Mysore

 
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389



% $  '  # $  "       

  

5/(5+9(.090033;6;/,
569;/6-;/,;6>50:(56;/,9
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67,5:6--;/,*6<9;@(9+
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(08176) 257 254.  Mahamastakabhisheka (every 12 years; last one


was in 2005).

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A view of Chandragiri Hill above Sravana Belgola

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

  "   $   



  
Hassan district. 17 km (11 miles) SW
of Halebid.  Hassan, 34 km (21
miles) SE of town centre, then bus or
taxi.   Tourist Office, (08177)
222 209.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

Miniature
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Environs

Terracotta-tiled rooftops in Mangalore


  
South Kanara district. 357 km (222
miles) W of Bangalore.  399,000.
 20 km (12 miles) N of city centre,
then taxi or bus.   
Karnataka Tourism, Hotel
Indraprastha, (0824) 242 1692.

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Udipi district. 58 km (36 miles) N of
Mangalore.  113,100.  
Tourist Office, Krishna Building, Car
Street, (0820) 252 9718.  Pargaya
(Jan), Chariot Festival (Aug).

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Udipi district. 71 km (44 miles) N of


Mangalore.  Navaratri
(Sep/Oct).

North Kanara district. 165 km (102


miles) N of Mangalore.  31,800.
 Navaratri (Sep/Oct).

North Kanara district. 200 km


(124 miles) N of Mangalore. 
Tourist Office, Main Rd, Karwar,
(08382) 221 172.  Shivratri
(Feb/Mar).

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

  $ !  &   




 
Chitradurga district. 200 km (124 miles)
N of Bangalore.  Kamana Bhavi
Extension, 8th Ward Fort Rd; (08194)
234 466. 

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Bellary district. 315 km (196 miles)
NW of Bangalore.  Hospet, 13
km (8 miles) W of site.  
Bazaar St, (08394) 228 537. 
Virupaksha Temple  daily.
Lotus Mahal  also covers the
Vitthala Temple.  Chariot
Festival (Feb), Hampi Festival
(Nov). Foreigners must register at
Virupaksha Temple Police Station.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

  



VISITORS CHECKLIST
E of the Sacred Centre.  daily.
 free on Fri.

  

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247 0879.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
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Bagalkot district. 480 km (298
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Exploring Pattadakal

View of the twin Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna Temples, Pattadakal


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

Shiva appearing out of the fiery


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Entrance
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Galaganatha
Sangameshvara
Kashi Vishvanatha
Mallikarjuna

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Virupaksha
8 Nandi Pavilion
9 Museum
10 Village
11 Papanatha
7

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0 metres
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100
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  "            

A view of the Gaudar Gudi with the Ladkhan Temple behind it, Aihole


 

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VISITORS CHECKLIST

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daily.  covers all main temples.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

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Mahatma Gandhi Rd. Tel (08352)
250 728  daily.  free on Fri.
Autos & cycles available.
The dome/94+'82? 3

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71112 and pp7389

  !   #   



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Faade of the Madrasa of Mahmud


Gawan in Bidar

SOUTH
INDIA

INTRODUCING SOUTH INDIA 548555


CHENNAI 556575
TAMIL NADU 576615
ANDAMAN ISLANDS 616623
KERALA 624657
ANDHRA PRADESH 658683



          



  
 
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SEE ALSO
 

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KEY
National highway
Major road
River
State border

GETTING AROUND
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For additional map symbols see back flap



         

   

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A 16th-century Catholic church, overlooking a little fishing village at Kanniyakumari

                     



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## '%
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Puja items being sold outside


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Fresh green coconuts, providing a


refreshing drink on a hot day

KERALA
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Vada
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Sprig of curry leaves

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Selection of South Indian rice preparations and other accompaniments

LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES


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Appams and stew  

 
 
   

     
             

Chinese fishing nets, an iconic sight in Fort Cochin, Kerala

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Bagharey baingan
 
    
   

ANDHRA PRADESH
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View of a street vegetable market
in rural Tamil Nadu

Meen moilee    


   
      
   

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A huge hoarding depicting Jayalalitha, a Tamil Nadu political leader, looming above Marina promenade

Flower seller with fragrant garlands near the Kapalesvara Temple, Mylapore



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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Egmore. Tel (044) 2561 2608.
 daily.  9am & 6pm Sun.
 St Andrews Day (Nov).

THE WELLS OF ST ANDREWS KIRK


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PLAN OF THE
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Bounded by Periyar EVR High Rd &


Pantheon Rd.  Egmore Railway
Station, (044) 2819 4579.

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The faade of the National Art Gallery, built in Neo-Mughal style



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Starting point: Victory War


Memorial.
Length: 5 km (3 miles).
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Stopping-off points: A range of
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Triumph of Labour by Debi Prasad Roy Chowdhary, 1959

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71213 and pp73940

      



 
S of San Thom, across Adyar river.
Theosophical Society Tel (044)
2491 2474.  MonFri & (Sat
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The pillared entrance of Brodie


Castle in Adyar

The 400-year-old banyan tree in the gardens of the Theosophical Society

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THE THEOSOPHICAL SOCIETY


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S Chennai. Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Rd.
 Guindy station.   WedMon.
 Raj Bhavan  to public.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71213 and pp73940

  

 



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ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES,
TICKETS AND VENUES
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DIRECTORY
JEWELLERY AND
ANTIQUES
Amethyst
14 Padmavathi Rd,
Jeyapore Colony,
Gopalapuram.
Tel (044) 2835 1627.

Prince Jewellery
13 Nagaeswara Rao Rd,
Panagal Park.
Tel (044) 2436 3137.
769 Spencer Plaza,
Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2849 5817.

Rani Arts & Crafts


8 Nowrojee Rd, Chetpet.
Tel (044) 2642 2948.
73 Gangadareswar Koil St.
Tel (044) 2642 2948.

Sukhra
42 North Mada St,
Mylapore.
Tel (044) 2461 0193.

Vummidi Bangaru
Jewellers
Rani Seethai Hall,
603 Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2849 3056.

Fabindia

Cane and Bamboo

Karthik Fine Arts

Illford House, 3 Woods Rd,


off Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2851 0395.

20 C-in-C Rd, Ethiraj Lane.


Tel (044) 2827 5180.

New 39, Bhimanna


Garden St, Alwarpet.
Tel (044) 2499 7788.

Kumaran Silks

116 Anna Salai.


Tel (044) 2841 3146.

12 Nageswaran Rd,
T Nagar.
Tel (044) 2434 3544.

Man Mandir
15 Khader Nawaz Khan
Rd, Nungamabakkam.
Tel (044) 2823 9474.

Nallis
9 Nageswaran Rd,
T Nagar.
Tel (044) 2434 4115.

Radha Silks
Sannathi St, Mylapore.
Tel (044) 2494 1906.

Shilpi

Higginbothams

Musee Musicals
67 Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2852 2780.

Music World
Spencers Plaza.
Tel (044) 2849 3232.

Naturally Auroville
30 Khader Nawaz Khan
Rd, Nungambakkam.
Tel (044) 2821 7517.

Poompuhar
818 Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2852 0624.

1 GG Minar, 23 College
Rd, Nungambakkam.
Tel (044) 2828 2603.
29, CP Ramaswamy Rd.
Tel (044) 2499 7526.

Sapthaswara Music
Store

Sundari Silks

VTI

5455 North Usman Rd,


T Nagar.
Tel (044) 2814 3093.

New 180, Anna Salai.


Tel (044) 2858 6779.

TEXTILES AND
SARIS

HANDICRAFTS
AND GIFTS

Co-optex

Apparao Galleries

Pantheon Rd, Egmore.


Tel (044) 2819 2394.

7 Wallace Garden, 3rd St.


Tel (044) 2833 4955.

165 Royapetta H Rd,


Mylapore.
Tel (044) 2499 3294.

Museum Theatre
Pantheon Rd, Egmore.
Tel (044) 2819 3778.

Music Academy
306 TTK Rd, Alwarpet.
Tel (044) 2811 5162.

Narada Gana Sabha


314 TTK Rd, Alwarpet.
Tel (044) 2499 3201.

Sri Krishna Gana


Sabha
8 Maharajapuram
Santhanam Salai,
T Nagar.
Tel (044) 2814 0806.

CINEMA
Devi
47 Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2855 5660.

Ega
435 Poonamallee High Rd.
Tel (044) 2641 1666.

Gaiety
ENTERTAINMENT
VENUES

Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2841 5154.

Kalakshetra

Sathyam Cineplex

Kalakshetra Foundation,
Thiruvanmiyur.
Tel (044) 2491 1844.

Sathyam Theatre Complex,


8, Thiru Vi Ka Rd.
Tel (044) 2852 3813.

      
 






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Chingleput district. 26 km (16 miles)
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
1.5 km (1 mile) S of Mamallapuram village.  daily.  
 Tamil Nadu Tourism,
Covelong Rd, (04114) 242 232.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

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Vellore district. 145 km (90 miles)
W of Chennai.  177,500.

Katpadi, 5 km (3 miles) N of town


centre, then bus or auto.   daily.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

The 16th-century Arunachaleshvara


Temple at Tiruvannamalai

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The Krishna Temple and Durbar Hall on Krishnagiri Hill, Gingee Fort

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Viluppuram district. 37 km (23 miles)
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Union Territory of Pondicherry.
160 km (99 miles) S of Chennai.
 220,800.   
Pondicherry Tourism, Goubert
Salai, (0413) 233 9497. 
 MonSat.  Masimagam
(Feb/Mar), Ganesha Chaturthi
(Aug/Sep).

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

      " " '

The verdant courtyard of the cole Franaise dExtrme-Orient

 cole Franaise dExtrme-

Orient
16 & 19, Rue Dumas. Tel (0413)
233 2504.

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 French Institute of Indology
11, St Louis St. Tel (0413) 233 4539.

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 Aurobindo Ashram
7,673,6-.66+>033>6<3+30=,
Rue de la Marine. Tel (0413) 223
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3604.  daily.
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Matri Mandir, the spiritual and physical
(0+4,+0;(;065
centre of Auroville



FESTIVALS OF
TAMIL NADU
Pongal  
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Tamil women making


preparations for Pongal



!  # "       

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&7;&9.&3)9-*SubraThe gold-plated roof of the main sanctum, Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram
manyam Shrine.3<-.(-
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of Pondicherry.  59,000.  
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 Hotel Tamil Nadu, Railway Feeder
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Rd, (04144) 238 739.  Dance
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

"         #



      


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Dansborg Fort at Tarangambadi

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Tirumullaivasal 1

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0 km

10

0 miles

3IRKAZHI

+AVERI

10

-AYILADUTHURAI

Tarangambadi 3

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Poompuhar 2

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KEY
Tour route
Other roads

"AYOF"ENGAL

Karaikal 4

"-.8+472*77*3(-
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6E
T T A R

4HIRUVARUR


Nagapattinam 6

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6ELLA
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b

Nagore 5

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7*1.,.438(&89*8&3)(7**)8

TIPS FOR DRIVERS



Velanganni 7

*451*4+&117*1.,.438
8**0(:7*8&99-**4
49-.(&8.1.(&4+:7
&)>4+44)*&19-

Point Calimere 8

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4;*7
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4+8&1.3*2&78-1&3).8&
-&;*3+472.,7&947>'.7)8

Length: 90 km (56 miles)


Stopping-off points: Hotel
Tamil Nadu at both Poompuhar
and Nagapattinam are
convenient stopping-off points.
The route is well connected by
government and private buses.



% $       

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Museum5,(9;/,;,473,
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 Brihadishvara Temple
 daily. Museum  Sat-Thu.

 
Thanjavur district. 74 km (46 miles)
SW of Chidambaram.  140,100.
   Thanjavur tourist office,
(04362) 231 325.  Nageshvara
Temple Festival (Apr/May), Mahamaham Festival (every 12 years).

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The 17th-century Adikumbheshvara Temple, Kumbakonam


;/,;6>,9,+

  
 


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

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 Royal Palace
East Main Rd.  daily. 
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

"         #



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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Thanjavur district. 350 km (218
miles) SW of Chennai.
 215,800.   Jawan
Bhavan, (04362) 230 984.
 MonSat. Rajaraja
Cholas Birth Anniversary (Oct).

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STAR FEATURES

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

Linga
shrine

       



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Thanjavur. W of bus stand.
 daily. For permission to visit
inner chambers of the sanctum
and the top floors, contact the
temple, (04362) 230 826, or
Thanjavur tourist office.
Archaeological Museum
 daily. 

!
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Tiruchirapallis Rock Fort looming above the city

    

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Tiruchirapalli district. 60 km (37 miles) -?8)6,-,;0-%01=);-584-
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7 km >0-9-;0-/7,1:>79:0188-,
(4 miles) S of town centre, then bus or ): &0)@<5)6)=)9;0-B7,
>07-+)5-) 7;0-9D
taxi.  Hotel Tamil Nadu, 1
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Williams Rd, (0431) 241 4346. 
Teppakulam Float Festival (Mar).
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Lourdes
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%;7:-80:744-/-)4:7;7
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:7<;0>-:;7.;0-.79;1:;0-
0<9+07.%;706


 Rock Fort
 daily.   extra charges.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of


Lourdes at Tiruchirapalli

THE KAVERI RIVER

Shrine depicting the legend


of Goddess Kaveri

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

& 

   !   '



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of Tiruchirapalli.   Vaikuntha Eka- 81+;<9-:)6,:<6,9@
(1:06<):$)6/)6);0)
dashi (Dec/Jan), Chariot Festival (Jan).
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Environs

; Kallanai 35
514-:
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Sri Ranganatha Temple


 daily.  for viewpoint on top. 
 extra charges. Museum  daily.
One of the impressive gateways at the Ranganatha Temple, Srirangam

Jambukeshvara Temple
 daily.   extra charges.

The verdant Marthanda Valley, with the misty Nilgiri Hills in the background



!  # "       

     
   
Nilgiris district. 64 km (40 miles) W
of Udhagamandalam.  Theppakadu,
the main entry point.  Tourist
Office, Theppakadu, (0423) 244
3977. For bookings contact Wildlife
Wardens Office, Ooty, (0423) 244
4098.  daily (may be closed during
FebMar).   Jeeps available.

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4+7&7*51&398

Yerikadu Lake, from which Yercaud derives its name

   
Salem district. 32 km (20 miles) NE
of Salem.
Salem, then bus. 
 Hotel Tamil Nadu, Yercaud Ghat
Rd, (04281) 223 334.  Shevaroyan
Temple Festival (May).

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Pykara 6

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4+1:8-,7**3;&11*>8-.1189&9.438&3)
-&21*98.3-&'.9*)'>97.'&15*451*
TIPS FOR DRIVERS
Length: 90 km (56 miles).
Getting around: Avalanche and
Pykara can only be reached from
Ooty, as there are no road links
from Coonoor. The route is well
covered by public & private
buses. An exciting alternative is
the Nilgiri Blue Mountain Train,
which runs from Mettupalayam
to Ooty, via Coonoor (see p777).

&28+*3(*) 
,7**32*&)4<8&3)
(43.(&18-&5*) "4)&
-4:8*8(&3'*8**3-*7*


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Jacaranda in full bloom in


the Nilgiris

0YKARA
2ESERVOIR

Avalanche 5

"-.83&9:7&15&7&).8*-&8)*38*
+47*898&3)&'*&:9.+:11&0*
0 km

0 miles

-AKURTI
,AKE

KEY
Tour route
Other roads

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

"         #




 

"-*8&3(9:&7>574;.)*8&

-&'.9&9+47&7.(-).;*78.9>4+
Coimbatore district. 96 km (60 miles)
<.1)1.+*.3(1:).3,9-*.1,.7.
NE of Chennai.  924,000. 10
9&-7
8&2'&79.,*7
km (6 miles) NE of city centre, then
1*45&7)85499*))**7+1>.3,
bus.
  Tamil Nadu Tourism,
86:.77*1&1&'&7(.;*9&3)
.1,.7.1&3,:7;*7
85*(.*8 Railway Station, (0422) 230 2176. 
MonSat.  Thaipoosam (Jan/Feb),
4+'.7)87*8.)*39&3)2.,7&94
Karthigai (Nov/Dec).
7>(&3'*8**3-*7*&8<*11
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NW of Madurai.  Madurai, 119
;367,-4 2)0)'86-''%&0)'%6 %2(6))2$%00)=$-);36-+-
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2%00=/23;2%7!9-'-()3-28
bus or taxi.    Thaipoosam
78)47838,),-007,6-2)
;,-',3**)6)2',%28-2+4-'2-'
(Jan/Feb), Karthigai (Nov/Dec).
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HIKING IN THE NILGIRIS


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

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1 km (0.6 miles) SW of Minakshi
Temple.  daily. to non-Hindus.

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Sultans
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7*(9&3,:1&7(4:79>&7)(&11*)
86:&7*9&30-&889*58+1&30*) Cathedral at Madurai
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

   $ !  



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Madurai district. 498 km (309
miles) SW of Chennai. 
923,000. 12 km (7 miles) S of
city centre.  
Hotel Tamil
Nadu, (0452) 273 3757. 
MonSat. Theppam Festival
(Jan/Feb), Navaratri (Sep/Oct),
Avanimoolam (Aug/Sep).

#-*9*251*&9Alagarkoil

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

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   $ !  



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Chitrai St. Tel (0452) 234 4360.
 daily. Non-Hindus not
allowed inside the sanctum.
 extra charges.  Chitirai
Festival (mid-Apr), Avanimoolam
(Aug/Sep). Museum  daily.
extra charges.

2&.37-6.3*&2.)(419237
8-&8'*&68-*+.7-248.+7
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#-*8*251*.7*38*6*)+642
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75*(8&(91&67.,-8
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The splendid Chettinad Palace, Karaikudi

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Elaborate marble floors""#!"

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Intricately carved
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"         #



  
Chettinad district. 82 km (51 miles)
NE of Madurai.    daily.
 Bullock Races (Jan/Feb).

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The longest corridor at Ramanathaswamy Temple, with sculpted pillars

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Ramanathapuram district. 117 km
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(73 miles) SE of Madurai. 
(-')-27,%4)
62,000.    daily.  Urs at
Ramanathapuram district. 163 km
87966392(78,)'36)3*8,)
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(101 miles) SE of Madurai.
8)140)32*3967-()7-2%
 38,050.    Tourist office,
'328-29397'366-(36%2(-7
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",-7%2'-)2883;2-7
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041



$ ! & %   

  




Tuticorin district. 135 km (84 miles)
S of Madurai.  216,100.

 Golden Chariot Festival (Aug).

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Corridor of the Kanthimathi Nellaiyappar Temple, Tirunelvelli


 


 


Tuticorin district. 223 km (139 miles)


S of Madurai.
 from Madurai,
Tirunelvelli, Tuticorin & Nagercoil.
 Annual Temple Festival (Jun/Jul).

Tirunelvelli district. 154 km (96


miles) SW of Madurai.
 
Tamil Nadu Tourism, Tirunelvelli
Junction, (0462) 250 0104. 
Chariot Festival (Jun/Jul).

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The Church of the Holy Cross in Manapad


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71314 and pp74041

Courtallam (Kuttalam) Falls


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Sthanumalaya Temple at Suchindram, overlooking the temple tank


 


  


Kanniyakumari district. 247 km (154


miles) S of Madurai.
Nagarcoil, 5
km (3 miles) NW of town centre, then
bus.   Arudhra Festival (Dec/Jan).

Kanniyakumari district. 235 km (146


miles) S of Madurai.  19,700.

  Tamil Nadu Tourism, Beach


Rd, (04652) 246 257.  Chaitra
Purnima (Apr), Navaratri (Sep/Oct).

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Kumari Amman Temple
 daily. Sanctum closed to
non-Hindus.
 Vivekananda Memorial
 WedMon.   every 30 min.

A statue of the poet Tiruvalluvar, on the beach at Kanniyakumari

 

       





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Towns & Villages

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An island in the Andamans covered by a dense, evergreen canopy of trees, surrounded by crystal waters



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Sports Complex7..-:;):)6/-

An aerial view of the capital, Port Blair

 

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8:7516-6<4)6,5):3
Govt of India Tourist Office,
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Junglighat Rd, (03192) 233 006;
4)1,7=<):7=6,)+-6<:)4
Andaman & Nicobar Tourism, (03192) ?)<+0<7?-:764A.7=::-5)16
230 933. Travel permits are required <0:--0)>-*--6+76>-:<-,16<7
 Cellular Jail
for the Andaman Islands (see p758).
)07;81<)4)6,):-416-,?1<0
Son et Lumire 67pm (Hindi),
 Island Tourism Festival (Dec/Jan).
+-44;-)+0 *A  5 *A
.<16;1B-)14A:)<176;+76 daily. 78pm (English), daily. 
 Anthropological Museum
%0-+)81<)4"7:<4)1:1;
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Tel (03192) 230 799.  daily.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p714 and p741

Environs

   

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The rare Narcondam hornbill

  
     



SNORKELLING AND
SCUBA DIVING

Snorkelling, a popular way to


explore marine life

Snorkelling

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www.andamanscubaclub.
com

Eco-friendly Diving

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
South Andaman Island. 29 km
(18 miles) SW of Port Blair. 
 from Wandoor village. 
Chief Wildlife Warden, Haddo,
Port Blair, (03192) 233 549. Entry
permitted only to Jolly Buoy &
Redskin Islands.  daily, subject
to weather. Best time: DecMar.
  Forest Lodge has 4 suites.
 Snorkelling & scuba diving.

The second
layer.12:1

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Toung
Pienne
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Bamboo

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The group of islands lies between
20 km (12 miles) & 40 km (25 miles)
E of South Andaman.  from Port
Blair & Rangat Bay (Middle Andaman).
Travel permits required for the
Andamans (see p758).

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6'8:685:+):+*'94':/54'2
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Havelock Island 
+'-2+9 :9(+').+9+96+)/'22? */</4--85;6
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Cinque Island. 39 km (24 miles) S of
9:8+:).+95,=./:+9'4*%.+
 twice a week from Port Blair.
Port Blair.  motor boats from Port
+2+6.'4:9,5;4*54:.+/92'4*





 
 

Blair & Wandoor, ferries from Chiriya


Tapu. Travel permits required for the
Andamans (see p758). Only day visits
are allowed.

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A colourful sea fan and a grouper fish

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p714 and p741

   

  $  

 $



  


Middle Andaman Island. 170 km (106
miles) N from Port Blair to Rangat.
 from Port Blair. Travel permits
required for the Andamans (see p758).

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Museum Rd. Mon, (Wed am) &
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public hols for all museums.  covers  $5:.+458:.5,:.+
all museums. Kanakakunnu Palace
;9+;3/9:.+Shri Chitra Art
Tel (0471) 231 8294 for permission.
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MARTIAL ARTS OF KERALA


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

A painting by Raja Ravi Varma in Sri


Chitra Art Gallery

Mahatma Gandhi Road

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Fort area. to non-Hindus. Special
rules for clothing apply (see p762).

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Thiruvananthapuram district.
708 km (440 miles) SW of
Chennai.  3,234,700.
6
km (4 miles) W of city centre, then
bus or taxi.  Tourist
Facilitation Centre, Museum Rd,
(0471) 232 1132; TRC, opp
Chaitram Hotel, (0471) 233 0031.
 MonSat. Chandanakuda
(Mar/Apr), Navaratri (Sep/Oct),
Soorya Dance Festival (Oct),
Nishangandhi Dance Festival (Nov).
The imposing gopura of the Anantha Padmanabhaswamy Temple

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Museum
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Festival (Jan/Feb).

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Kovalam Beach

 Varkala
Thiruvananthapuram district. 40 km
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near the helipad.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

 

  



FESTIVALS OF KERALA
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A view of the long sandy beach at Varkala

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Thiruvananthapuram district. 60 km
(37 miles) NE of Thiruvananthapuram.
Trekking permits Contact the Office
of the Wildlife Warden, Thiruvananthapuram (0471) 232 9925.

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Caparisoned elephants and


musicians, Thrissur Pooram



          


   
 
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20
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The Bath House'11+**

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Tamil Nadu state. Kanniyakumari
district. 52 km (32 miles) SE of
Thiruvananthapuram.  Tel
(04651) 250 255.  TueSun.
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STAR SIGHTS

 Prayer Hall
 Mothers Palace
 Council Chamber


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Alappuzha district. 132 km (82 miles)
NW of Thiruvananthapuram, (0479)
241 3214.   Thulam (Oct/Nov).

An elephant being led down the steps of Aranmulas Parthasarthy Temple

 
 
Pathanamthitta district. 125 km (78
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

     



    
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For additional map symbols see back flap

Coconut Lagoon,)
  
$" !  
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TIPS FOR PASSENGERS


Toddy tappers

%!! "!
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!!

Route 1: Kollam to Alappuzha


Dep: 10:30am. Maximum
duration: 8 hrs.  District
Tourism Promotion Council
(DTPC), Kollam, (0474) 274 5625.
Route 2: Alappuzha to Kollam
Dep: 10:30am. Maximum
duration: 8 hrs.  DTPC,
Alappuzha, (0477) 225 3308.
For more details see p781.

Chinese fishing nets!$! 

" !!  " 



$+#&' ! "! $! 

Children with banana trunks playing in the water

BACKWATERS
(+#'!-(%!'+,.+&-",#1-"
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In this coirproducing
village

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Coconut husks ! $$! !

    ! !"  !&!


!"!!! !"! 
  #!!" 

Tea gardens surrounding the Mattupetty Reservoir, Munnar (see p648)



!  # "       

 
Kottayam district. 160 km (99 miles)
N of Thiruvananthapuram. 
60,750.    District Tourist
Promotion Council, (0481) 256 0479.
 Drama Festival (Jan).

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Kottayam

WOODEN ARCHITECTURE IN KERALA

Environs
Mannanam02 2.1*8

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Kottayam district. 175 km (109
miles) N of Thiruvananthapuram. 
 Epiphany (6 Jan). St Thomas
Church  (Malayalam) 6am daily.

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Pattanamthitta district. 191 km (119
.3!>7.&(997&(9.;*,1&88(&3
&3)3498-&;.3,&7**39.91*)
miles) N of Thiruvananthapuram. 
)*1&'7&&7*8:85*3)*)+742
to Pamba, then by foot.  Mandalam 94:3)*79&0*9-*5.1,7.2&,*
<&11'7&(0*98<-.1*&(-&3)*
(Dec/Jan), Makaravilakku (mid-Jan).
1.*7-&3,8+7429-*(*.1.3,
"-*7*.8&<44)*3'&1(43>&9
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See pp64041.
4+ 2
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THE AYYAPPA CULT
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Visitors viewing wildlife from a


boat on Periyar Lake

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

     



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Idukki district. 190 km (118
miles) N of Kochi.   Forest
Divisional Office, Kumily (04869)
22 2028, Tourist Information
Centre, Kumily (04869) 22 2620.



*## &$ &# (%#%&%
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The Mangaladevi Temple 

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Brahma emerging from Vishnus


navel, mural, Mattancherry Palace

KOCHI CITY CENTRE

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KEY
Street-by-Street area: see
pp6445
Key to Symbols see back flap

  

 Kochi International Pepper

Exchange
Jew Town. Tel (0484) 222 4263. Passes
required to enter hall.  MonSat.

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Ernakulam district. 222 km (138
miles) N of Thiruvananthapuram.
 596,500.
36 km (22 miles)
E of city centre, then bux or taxi.
Tourist Information Centre,
(0484) 236 0502; TRC, near
Ernakulam jetty (0484) 235 3234.
Onam (Aug/Sep),
Utsavam (Nov/Dec).

 St Francis Church
Fort Kochi.  MonSat.
 (English) 8am, daily.

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Antique shops lining the narrow lanes in Jew Town

The gracious faade of Bolghatty


Palace, now a hotel

Bolghatty Island
Bolghatty Palace Hotel Tel (0484)
275 0500.  open to non-residents.

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569;/,(:;6-95(2<3(4
 Thripunithura Museum
Tel (0484) 278 1113.  TueSun.



          

    



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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

    

  
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Suggested route

STAR SIGHTS

 Santa Cruz
Cathedral

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 Chinese Fishing
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 St Francis Church



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Wind-surfing in the Lakshadweep Islands

Kavaratti Island

Agatti Island

450 km (280 miles) W of Kochi.


  to Indian passport
holders only. 

55 km (34 miles) NW of Kavaratti


Island.    to Indian passport
holders only. 

'08.'*<++58'*2/3/897'9/;+
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Huts at Bangaram Island Resort

/3)1:*/3-8'/1/3-.+'19.
)+79/,/)'9+,742'*4)947/8
7+6:/7+*,47*/;/3-
Kadmat Island
70 km (44 miles) N of Kavaratti
Island.  

#./)01>)4;+7+*</9.5'12
97++8'*2'981'3*.'89<4
,/3+1'-4438949.++'89'3*
<+89#.+Water Sports
Institute4,,+78)'34+/3-

Bangaram Island
58 km (36 miles) NW of Kavaratti.


#.+:3/3.'(/9+*'3-'7'2
81'3*/8)4;+7+*</9.*+38+
-74;+84,)4)43:95'128'3*
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 #.+ Bangaram Island Resort

 7:3(>'8/34
49+184,4)./.'8'(4:9 
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<'9+7854798';'/1'(1+

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

Snorkelling in Lakshadweep Islands


crystal-clear waters

  !   



VISITORS CHECKLIST

Fisherfolk picking mussels among reefs in the shallows

0'>'0/3-'3*-1'88(49942+*
(4'97/*+8'3*9.+Lacadives
Dive School439.+8'2+
57+2/8+84,,+7883470+11/3-
'3*8):('*/;/3-'3*.'8
6:'1/,/+*/3897:)9478
 Water Sports Institute
SPORTS Office, Kochi.
Tel (0484) 266 8387.

83470+11/3-47'1*+(7/8
*+548/9+*(>'89472/3  
.'8,472+*7'/8+*('30843
9.++'89+73'3*84:9.+73
8.47+8'15+3/8/3.'(/9'398
<+7+'243-9.++'71/+89
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8).4415';/3-9.+<'>,47
49.+7/81'3*+78<.4.'*
97'*/9/43'11>0+599.+/7-/718'3*
<42+3)43,/3+*949.+.42+

Union Territory of Lakshadweep.


200450 km (124280 miles) W
of Kochi.  10,150 (Kavaratti).
 from Kochi to Agatti. 
from Kochi (30 hours).  Boats
are available for trips between the
islands.  A trip to Lakshadweep
is only possible as part of a
package tour; individual bookings
are not permitted. For bookings
contact Lakshadweep Tourisms
Society for Nature Tourism &
Sports (SPORTS) office in Kochi,
(0484) 266 8387. For enquiries
contact the Delhi office, (011)
2338 6807. Travel permits
These are mandatory and take at
least two months to procure (see
p758), contact the Kochi SPORTS
office. Many agencies run tours
between October and March.

7+1'9+*949.+3*4 +78/'3
1'3-:'-+8</9.'8)7/59<7/99+3
,7427/-.9941+,9/3/)4>/8
 Lacadives Dive School
4,9+37+,+77+*94'8@&42+38
Tel Mumbai, (022) 5662 7381;
81'3*B'8/989+3;/11'-+8'7+
Kochi, (0484) 236 7752.
Minicoy Island
2'97/1/3+'19/8'1847/)./39.+
www.lacadives.com
5+7,472/3-'7989.+97'*/9/43'1
250 km (155 miles) S of Kavaratti
Island.   to Indian
';'*'3)+/85+7,472+*43
passport holders only.
Kalpeni Island
,+89/;+4))'8/438#:3',/8./3-
.'8(+)42+'3/25479'39
125 km (78 miles) SE of
'08.'*<++58
Kavaratti Island.  
84:9.+732489/81'3* ')9/;/9></9.9.++89'(1/8.2+39
to Indian passport holders
4,'9:3')'33/3-,')947>
/3/)4>.'8'
only. 
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:3/6:+):19:7+
'3*/89.+431>/81'3*/39.+
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2'3-74;+8'143-/988.47+8
81'3*/89.+1'7-+89 A hermit crab coming '1*/;+8'.1
1'7-+1/-.9.4:8+(:/19(>9.+
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&/9.+=)+11+397++,8
7/9/8./3  )422'3*8'3
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'15+3//8/*+'1,47*/;/3-'3* '1*/;/'3./;+./<./)./8
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MARINE LIFE IN THE CORAL REEFS
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'3+243+8/30(1:+89'7,/8.*415./38.'721+888.'708'3*2'7/3+9:791+82'0+:59.+
85+)9'):1'7*/;+78/9>4,9.+:3*+7<'9+7<471*479/5843+)4,7/+3*1>*/;/3-8++5 

Parali Island, one of Lakshadweeps many atolls

Corals 
 

   
   
   
!  
 ! !
   



"  $ #       

 

The nine-tiered tower dedicated to


Shankaracharya, Kaladi

 

Ernakulam district. 35 km (22 miles)
NE of Kochi. 

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Idukki district. 130 km (81 miles) N
'9'95)/'2)+4:8+,58;44'89
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Centre, Munnar, (04865) 23 1516.
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A view of the tea plantations around Munnar

ADI SHANKARACHARYA (AD 788820)


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The philosopher Adi
Shankaracharya
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

  !   



  
Thrissur district. 32 km (20 miles) N
of Kochi.   Id (Feb/Mar),
Bharani Festival (Mar/Apr).

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The captivating landscape of Eravikulam National Park
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Divisional Forest Officer, Munnar,
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(04865) 23 1587.  AugMay. 
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View of the Catholic Lourdes Cathedral in Thrissur

   
Thrissur district. 80 km (50 miles) N of
Kochi.  317,500.   
Tourist Office, Govt Guest House,
(0487) 232 0800.  Thrissur Pooram
(Apr/May), Kamdassamkadavu Boat
Races (Aug/Sep).

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Tel (04884) 26 2305 for permission.
 MonFri.  public hols, Apr/May.

Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur

THE POORAM FESTIVAL


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Elephants at the Pooram festival

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423



% $       

  
Palakkad district. 99 km (62 miles) N
of Kochi.  130,750. 
Tourist Information Centre, near
Childrens Park, (0491) 253 8996.
 Chariot Festival (Oct/Nov).

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Silent Valley, a haven of rare plants and herbs

 


  
Palakkad district. 88 km (55 miles)
NW of Kochi.  Mannarkkad, the
entry point. Jeeps available to
Mukkali.  For permits contact
the Wildlife Warden, Mannarkkad,
(04924) 25 3225.

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Malappuram district. 153 km (95
miles) N of Kochi.   (0483)
2733 1504.  daily.  Valiya
Nercha (Feb/Mar), Shivratri (Feb/Mar).

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The desolate ruins of Tipus Fort at Palakkad


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

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Arya Vaidyasala, at Kottakkal

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Kozhikode district. 254 km (158 miles)
N of Kochi.  436,600.  Karipur,
25 km (16 miles) S of city centre.
  District Tourism Promotion
Council, (0495) 273 4355. 
Shivratri Utsavam (Feb/Mar).

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Fishermen with colorful nets in the harbor of Beypore.



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East Hill. Tel (0495) 238 1253.
 TueSun.

Environs

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46
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Kalpetta.  Tourist Information
Kalpetta=1.-2<=;2,=1.*-
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8/(*55*;26*5255 46

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

  $   





Union Territory of Pondicherry. Mahe
district. 48 km (30 miles) N of
Kozhikode.  Govt Tourist
Home, (0495) 270 2304.
 St Theresas Feast (Oct).

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Kannur district. 255 km (158 miles)
N of Kochi.


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Fishmongers awaiting the daily catch at Thalaserry




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Kannur district. 66 km (41 miles) N of

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Kochi.
 District Tourism
Promotion Council, Taluk Office
/8;=87=1.,8*<=785-
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Campus, (0497) 270 6336.  daily.
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THEYYAM, KERALAS SPECTACULAR DANCE-RITUAL


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The laterite ramparts of Bekal Fort, outside Kasaragod town

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Kasaragod.    Tourism
;.'33+*'
:.+,58:".+)259+9:
Promotion Council (04994) 25 6450.
Pallikere Beach
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp71417 and pp7423

 

  



    


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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
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Near Naya Pul. Tel (040) 2452 3211.
 SatThu.  public hols.  

The Neo-Classical faade of the


19th-century Purani Haveli

 Purani Haveli (Nizams

Museum)
Near Mir Alam Mandi Rd. Tel (040)
2452 1029.  SatThu. 

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

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Mecca Masjid
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Ranga Reddy district. 688 km
(428 miles) N of Chennai. 
3,449,900. 16 km (10 miles)
N of city centre, then bus or taxi.
  AP Tourism, (040)
2329 8456.  daily. Muharram (Mar/Apr), Mrigasira (Jun).

 Falaknuma Palace
Near Naya Pul.  Closed for
renovation, check for opening dates.

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Splendid 17th-century tiled mosaics in the Badshahi Ashurkhana

HYDERABAD CITY CENTRE

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Caps on sale on the pavement


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

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A panoramic view of Golconda Fort



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Hyderabad district. 9 km (6 miles)
W of Hyderabad.   daily.
  Son et Lumire (English)
MarOct: 7pm daily; NovFeb:
6:30pm daily. 
Archaeological Museum
and Qutb Shahi Tombs
 SatThu. 

The elegant tomb of Muhammad


Quli Qutb Shah, Golconda

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Nalgonda district. 50 km (31 miles)
E of Hyderabad.   daily.

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Khush Mahal, the audience hall


at Warangal Fort

 

Warangal district. 140 km (87 miles)
SW of Hyderabad.    APTDC,
Kazipet, (0870) 244 6606.

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The magnificent thousand-pillared temple at Hanamkonda, near Warangal


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

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The 13th-century Ramappa Temple


at Palampet


 
Palampet district. 70 km (44 miles)
SW of Hyderabad. 

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FESTIVALS OF
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Batkamma Festival, Warangal

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

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108 km (67 miles) N from
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Mural showing Krishna surrounded by gopis, at Srikurmanatha Temple in Srikakulam district



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Ripening fields of paddy with the Eastern Ghats in the background, near Rajahmundry

   


380 km (236 miles) E from Hyderabad
to Rajahmundry.  Rajahmundry. 

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743


  
Krishna district. 340 km (211 miles)
E of Hyderabad.    daily.

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A view of the Prakasam Barrage, built over the Krishna river at Vijayawada


Krishna district. 267 km (166 miles)
SE of Hyderabad.  825,400.

 APTDC, (0866) 257 1393.


 daily.

;87<1;2=;<=8;<:-)5:-)+0-,
*A4)=6+0.:75<0-:1>-:*)63
 Victoria Jubilee Museum
 Sat-Thu.  extra charges.

Environs

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Mogalrajapuram 35


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Krishna district. 14 km (9 miles) W of
Vijayawada. 

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KONDAPALLI TOYS
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A toy being painted in
<7=+0-;7.*4)+3
bright colours

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

    #   ! #    $ 



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The Maha Chaitya at Amravati, now only a low earthen mound




 Archaeological Museum

 Sat-Thu.  extra charges.


)*)6,76-,)6,:-5)16-,;7
=6<14):1<1;07..1+1)47476-4
Guntur district. 30 km (19 miles) W
Environs
7416)+3-6B1-*-/)6
of Vijayawada.  from Guntur. 
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from Hotel Krishnaveni, Vijayawada.
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 run by AP Tourism, Vijayawada.
<07:7=/016>-;<1/)<1767.<0-
<0- Amareshvara Temple
Haritha Hotel, (08645) 255 332.
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Amravati limestone carving with
Amravati Museum
a scene from the Jataka Tales



"  $ #       

  
Guntur district. 175 km (109 miles)
W of Vijayawada. Macherla,
22 km (14 miles) SE of site, then bus
to Vijayapuri.   daily from
Vijayapuri, except Fri.  Vijay
Vihar, (08680) 277 362. 
from Hyderabad.

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View of the hemispherical stupa, Bodhishri Chaitya, Nagarjunakonda

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 Sat-Thu.  

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A giant-sized statue of the Standing Buddha in Nagarjunakonda


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

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Kurnool district. 225 km (140 miles)
S of Hyderabad.  daily from
Hyderabad.  Haritha Hotel,
APTDC, (08524) 287 411; Punnami
Hotel, Srisailam, (08524) 288 311.
 Shivaratri (Feb/Mar).

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Naga (Snake deity) from the
Archaeological Museum, Alampur

 Archaeological Museum
 Sat-Thu. 



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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

           



 
  
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THE TEN INCARNATIONS


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See also features on Hindu Mythology (see pp245), Ganesha (see p467) and Shiva (see p566).



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palaces at Chandragiri
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p717 and p743

   

  

   ! 



View of Sri Kalahasti town, with its towering gopuras and the Kannappa Temple on a hillock

 


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TRAVELLERS
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WHERE TO STAY 686717


WHERE TO EAT 718743
SHOPS & MARKETS 744747
ENTERTAINMENT 748749
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES &
SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS 750755



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The charming Raj-style Fernhill Palace Hotel in Ooty


Weekly market at Srirangapattana, Karnataka (see pp51617)

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GUESTS AND HOME STAYS
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The impressive entrance foyer,


Cecil Hotel, Shimla

TIPPING
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DIRECTORY
HOTEL CHAINS
Ashok Group
ITDC, 7 Lodhi Rd, Delhi.
Tel (011) 2436 0303.
www.theashokgroup.com

Oberoi Group
Oberoi Maidens, Delhi.
Tel (011) 2392 5464.
www.oberoihotels.com

Taj Group
Taj Intercontinental,
Mumbai.
Tel (022) 2202 5515.
www.tajhotels.com

Welcomgroup
Maurya Sheraton, Delhi.
Tel (011) 2611 2233.
www.welcomgroup.com

HERITAGE HOTELS
Indian Heritage
Hotels Association
Sansar Chandra Rd, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 237 1194.
www.indianheritagehotels
.com

HRH Group of
Hotels

DHARAMSHALAS
& ASHRAMS

NATIONAL PARKS
& CAMPING SITES

City Palace, Udaipur.


Tel (0294) 252 8016.
www.hrhhotels.com

Lamayuru
Monastery Hotel

Wild World India

Neemrana Hotels
A-58, Nizammudin East, Delhi.
Tel (011) 2435 8348.
www.neemranahotels.com

Lamayuru Monastery,
Ladakh district,
Jammu & Kashmir.
Tel No telephone.

WelcomHeritage

Ramakrishna
Mission

31, Siri Fort Rd, New Delhi.


Tel (011) 2626 6650.
www.welcomheritagehotels.
com

Belur Math, Howrah


district, West Bengal.
Tel (033) 2654 1144.
www.sriramakrishna.org

GUESTHOUSES,
PAYING GUESTS &
HOME STAYS

Sivananda Ashram

Munjeeta Travels
12 Cavendish Rd,
Woking, Surrey,
GU22 OEP, UK.
Tel (01483) 773 331.

Sundale Vacations
39/5955A, Atlantis
Junction, MG Rd, Kochi.
Tel (0484) 235 9127.
www.sundale.com

Divine Life Society, PO


Shivanandanagar, 249192,
Tehri Garhwal District
Uttaranchal.
Tel (0135) 243 0040.
www.divinelifesociety.org

Sri Aurobindo
Ashram
1 Goubert Salai
(Beach Road), Pondicherry.
Tel (0413) 233 4836.
www.sriaurobindoashram.
org

21, Kailash Hills,


New Delhi 110 065.
Tel (011) 2691 4417.
www.wildworldindia.com

SPECIAL HOTELS
Tourindia
PO Box 163,
Thiruvananthapuram.
Tel (0471) 233 1507.
www.tourindiakerala.com

YOUTH HOSTELS
YMCA
YMCA Hostel, 1 Jaisingh
Rd, PO Box 612, Delhi.
Tel (011) 2336 1915.
www.ymca.int

Youth Hostels Association of India


Vishwa Yuvak Kendra,
5, Nyaya Marg, Delhi.
Tel (011) 2687 1969.
www.yhaindia.org

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