Kutch Embroidery

Posted on: February 4, 2010

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Think of Gujarat and vibrant images flash across the mind the
exhilarating Garba, decorated camels in the great Rann and
everyone clothed in colourful embroideries. Gujarat can be called
one of the biggest contributors to the image of India as a colourful
country.

There are not one or two, but up to 16 different types of embroideries

known in Gujarat, each belonging to a different community. All of
these communities have their own, unique style of embroidery, different
motifs, patterns that give them a visual identity. Even a persons social
status can be identified through the embroidery he or she wears.
From the geometric Kharek to the intricate Suf and to the thorn bush
inspired Rabari, the identity of every Kutchhi person is woven in the
stitches of these embroideries. Things seen in daily lives; flowers and
bushes, peacocks and camels, women doing household chores and men
tending to cattle, all these are inspirations for these beautiful designs.

Kutchhi women embroider everything from garments to wall hangings,

toran, bed covers, bags and even camel decorations. Mirror-work,
which is a characteristic identity of Gujarat, is thought to be originated
with the use of naturally occurring mica found in the deserts. It is used so
much now that mirror glass is specially manufactured for this purpose in
local towns such as Kapadvanj in Gujarat.
Beautifully clashing colours, combinations that a trained designer would
be apprehensive to use, are arranged in effortless harmony by the
women, for whom embroidery is just another part of their daily
chores. The women have been stitching their own garments and
decorating them with embroideries for centuries and have
mastered the skills of colour and compositions. Traditionally,
embroideries were largely meant for personal use and dowry or gifts,
but now these embroideries are bringing in colour and whimsy into our
homogeneous mass produced urban marketplace.

These intense, contrasting colours and reflective mirrors give a breath of

life to the barren arid environment of Kutchh. To think of it, they also add a
greatly needed spice to our cloned silhouettes existing in concrete mazes.

Kutch work embroidery (also known as Kachchhi embroidery) is one of

the most easily identifiable styles of embroidery from Gujarat and a well
patronised handicraft textile in India. Deriving its name from its places of
origin, the Kutch and Saurashtra regions of Gujarat, Kutch embroidery is
characterised by the use of vibrant colors, mirrors and beads and intricate
and extensive needlework that embellishes the entire fabric on which it is
based.
Usually done on cotton or silk fabric, Kutch work embroidery involves the
use of silk or woollen thread in fine stitches to create elaborate patterns,
and draws its inspiration from romantic, architectural and human motifs,
as well as Persian and Mughal arts. The colors used are mainly green,
indigo, deep red, black, yellow and ivory. The embroidery is also
distinctive in its use of mirrors and beads, placed strategically in between
patterns. A popular and recognised example of Kutch embroidery is the

ghagra choli (a traditional skirt and blouse ensemble) of Gujarat,

especially worn during the Navratri season.
A History Woven With Myths

History traces the origin of Kutch work embroidery back to mochis, the
community of shoemakers, who used to work on royal textiles and
decorative objects. It is also believed that this unique style of embroidery
was brought about by Kathi cattle breeders, a group of wanderers
associated with Karna of the Mahabharat, who eventually settled down to

produce the characteristic fine needlework displaying a plethora of

patterns, moods and themes.
Over the years, various clans around the region have appropriated the
essential features of Kutch embroidery to create distinctive styles of their
own, such as Rabari, Ahir, Mochi and Mutwa.
Running With The Times

As with other art forms, Kutch embroidery has had to evolve with modern
times. While the embroidery was essentially seen on garments, it today
encompasses a wide variety of artefacts including bags, jackets and mobile
pouches amongst others. Indicating their popularity, Nandibhai calls these
new products, running items and also says that these involve less work
compared to traditional kurtis or blouses while paying well.
An exquisite form of embroidery, Kutch work, in many ways, reflects the
vibrancy of India through its colors, embellishments and motifs. Also, as
Nandibhai says, What can be made by the human hand, cannot be made
by machines. No machine can make this, making it a truly special form.
The Kutch Embroidery is a handicraft and textile signature art tradition of the tribal
community of Kutch District in Gujarat, India.[1]This embroidery with its rich designs has
made a notable contribution to the Indian embroidery traditions. [2] The embroidery,
practiced normally by women is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net
using cotton or silk threads. In certain patterns, it is also crafted over silk and satin. The
types of stitches adopted are square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running
stitch, satin and straight stitches. The signature effect of the colorful embroidery
sparkles when small mirrors called abhlaare sewn over the geometrically shaped
designs. Depending on the tribal sub groups of Rabari, Garasia Jat,

and Mutava involved with this craft work many hand embroidered ethnic styles have
evolved. These six styles: Suf, khaarek, paako, Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava. [1]
This embroidery product of Kutch has been registered for protection under the List
of Geographical indication of the Trade Related Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS)
agreement. In March 2013, it was listed as "Kutch Embroidery" under the GI Act 1999 of
the Government of India with registration confirmed by the Controller General of Patents
Designs and Trademarks under Class 24 Textile and Textile Goods, and its logo
registered in November 2015 vide application number 509 for the dated 8 January 2012.
[1]

Contents
[hide]

1Location

2History

3Production procedure

4References

Location[edit]
The product is made in several villages in the Kutch district, which lie within the
geographical coordinates of 24448N 680723Eand 244130N 714645E. These
villages are Abdasa, Anjar, Bhachau, Bhuj, Lakhpat, Mandvi, Mundra, Nakhatrana,
and Rapar.[1]

History[edit]
History of the Kutch Embroidery is traced to the 16th and 17th centuries when people
migrated from the countries such as Afghanistan, Greece, Germany, Iran and Iraq to
Gujarat.[1] It is also said that cobblers known as Mochis were trained in this art form by
the Muslim sufi saints of Sindh.[2] The art form became a vocation for women of Kutch
not only to meet their own clothing requirements but also to make a living, in view of
severe dry and very hot conditions of Kutch. It became a generational art with the skills
taught from mother to daughter. They embroidered clothes for festive occasions and to
decorate deities and to create a source of income. [1]

Production procedure[edit]

An embroidered product

Embroidered products are of 16 types known by specific names as: [1]

Ahir is type done by peasants of Ahir community with designs of animals and birds done
with chain stitch with hooked needles, herringbone stitch and fixed with small mirrors
known as 'abhla', practiced by women during the lean season [2][1]
Aari type of embroidery is done by cobblers with intricate chain stitch patterned on
designs of the Mughals.[1]
Gotauvn or Gotany which includes Chekan, Chopad, Katri and Mukko types, is done by
Muslim pastoral people of 11 villages, using several intricate patterns of stitches,
expensive silk fabrics, metallic threads and mirrors. [1]
Jat-Garasia and Jat-Fakirani are done by the two Jat communities, is a cross stitch
product with intensive use of mirrors of small size adopting "satin stitch with radiating
circles of a couched stitch".[1]
Kambira and Khudi-Tebha generally adopted in quilts is embroidered by
the Harijan people of the Banni grasslands on the border with theGreat Rann.[1]
Kharek practiced by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar people is usually in in the shape of
a set of bars created by adopting "black double running stitch and satin stitch". [1]
Neran meaning "eye brows" is a unique style which adopts buttonhole stitch in the shape
of a curve.[1]

Pakko done by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar people, which is akin to the Ahir style
with dominance of geometric designs with an embossed appearance and is embroidered
with close knitting with buttonhole stitches. [1]
Rabari made by Rabaris of the Giri region, with prominent patterns adopted from
mythology are made in several shapes embroidered with "square chain interlaced with
buttonhole" stitches fixed with mirrors, it is unlike another any other embroidery of Kutch.
Khadi material in maroon colour is used as the fabric to make door hangings, canopies,
wall decorations, etc.[1][3] It is also said that Rabaris of Kutch reportedly migrated from
Sindh in the 14th century and brought their traditional style with them and developed a
regional style which was a composite style unlike other types then in vogue in Kutch.
The mochi embroidery style with "chin stitch and parrot circle" patterns influenced their
styles.[4]
Soof meaning "neat and clean" is made in geometric designs dominated by a "chevron
design" known as 'leher' or 'waves' which gives the product a unique pattern which is an
innovation.[1]

A hanging type of embroidery design

6,000 women are engaged in this work. Many societies and some private corporations
are involved in their production.[1]
The materials used for the embroidery consist of fabrics made of threads of cotton, silk
woolen and mashru (an Arabic name). The types of threads used are of floss silk and
other varieties. Tracing paper and its associated product are used for drawing the
designs. Other essential embroidering tools and material are needle, mirrors, and

sequins. Embroidery is done with the fabric fixed on an adjustable embroidery frame to
adjust the tension of the cloth or by holding the fabric in hand. [1]
The designs created on the cloth to embroider relate to the themes of daily lifestyles,
animals and birds (like elephant, camel, parrot, peacock, etc.), flora, religious places
such as temples, and figurines of women in dancing postures. [1]
The procedure adopted for stitching with needles is by inserting them into the fabric and
bringing it up in one motion and then pulling the thread. A thimble is used with the help of
the middle finger to speed up the process. Some of the major stitches used are identified
by specific names such as "Mochi Bharat, Shisha or Abhala mirror work, Heer Bharat,
Soof, Kharek and Paako".[1]
Mirrors or glass pieces in different shapes are stitched to the fabric to make it shine; it is
a specialty in the rituals and folklore culture of the pastoral community of Rabaris of
Kutch. The best quality embroidery is known as "aari" which was done earlier for the
royal family and well to do families.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The beautiful Kutchi shawl, one of the icons of traditional Kutchi art has been granted the
Geographical Indication tag. This art of weaving is more than 500 years old. The tag will help the
shawl convey an assurance of quality and originality.
The shawl is woven with traditional Kutchi motifs and is processed on handlooms largely in
Bhujodi, a village of Kutch. The shawl is made from locally available wool and traditionally
worn as a veil.
The GI tag certifies that the product has originated from a specified geographical area and
possesses qualities or enjoys a certain reputation due to its geographical origin while insuring that
only those authorized or residing in that geographical area are allowed to use the popular product
name. This would help the shawl push its marketing and also help check cheap imitation being
done in other parts of the nation.
This tag will help over 1,200 weavers of Vankar and Meghwal samaaj, in Kutch region spread
across 210 villages. president of Kutch Weavers Association (KWA) Gabhubhai Vankar said.
As per the GI application, there are currently 1,200 weavers who work in 210 villages of Kutch.
Of these, 800-900 weavers practice the craft full-time. Around 2,400 women are engaged in
preparatory and finishing processes.

The shawl is the sixth Gujarati craft to get the GI tag, others being Kutchi embroidery, agate of
Cambay, Sankheda furniture, Tangaliya shawl and Surti zari.
These shawls since long have been a major attraction of the tourists visiting Kutch.

- See more at: http://www.gujaratglobal.com/kutchi-shawl-getsgeographical-indication-tag/#sthash.3HHKfUXv.dpuf

The Kutchi weavers, Jamnagar bandhini artisans and Ajrak printing craftsmen
will soon join the league of the traditional embroiders of Kutch, who got their
traditional craft patented last year.
The craftsmen plan to protect their traditional knowledge by patenting them
under the Geographical Indication Act (GIA).
Efforts are also on to patent wood carving, pottery, lacquer work, batik and
cowbells specific to the region, in the next phase. For the purpose, the
stakeholders of the Kutchi handicrafts have come together to organise themselves
into an association.
The GIA patenting protects the misuse and commercialisation of the particular
form of handicraft by patenting it in the name of the community that holds the
traditional wisdom of crafting it. This is also helpful in securing the
commercialisation and misuse of the handicraft by others.
Kutchi embroidery was patented in the name of embroidery workers from the
community under the Geographical Indication Act (GIA) last year. The process
was initiated one and a half years ago by the Development Commissionerate for
Handicrafts.
Now the statekeholders in other forms of handicrafts are making an organised
effort to protect traditional craft that could be called quintessentially Kutchi.
"The process of patenting Kutchi weaving started around the same time in
November last year.
About a month ago this year, the stakeholders and weavers came together to set
up a committee comprising weavers from across Kutch, non-government
organisations working in the sector, buyers, traders, the Indian Merchant

Chambers and members of ATIRA (Ahmedabad Textile Industries Research

Association)," said Pankaj Shah, founding member of Khamir, the organisation
that initiated the process.
B Venkateshwarlu, the assistant manager marketing of Gujarat State Handlooms
and Handicraft Development Corporation Limited, said the body has so far not
made any further attempts to patent more crafts. "The stakeholders are by and
large making the initiative themselves," he said.
The association will now submit the application for the patent next week, having
completed the mobilisation and documentation of history of the crafts.
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FROM AROUND THE WEB

Kutchi craftsmen apply for geographical patent indicator

The Kutchi weavers, Jamnagar bandhini artisans and Ajrak printing craftsmen, who are trying to
protect their traditional knowledge by patenting them under the Geographical Indication Act (GIA)
will soon join the league of the traditional embroiders of Kutch. These traditional embroiders have got
their traditional craft patented last year. Efforts have also been taken to patent wood carving, pottery,
lacquer work, batik and cowbells specific to the region, in the next phase, for which the stakeholders of
Kutchi handicrafts formed an association. The GIA protects the particular form of handicrafts from its
misuse and commercialization by patenting it in the name of community that holds the traditional
wisdom of crafting it. The Kutchi embroidery was patented last year, in the name of embroidery
workers from the community under GIA. The stakeholders in the other forms of handicrafts have now
come together to protect the traditional crafts that could be called quintessentially
Kutchi.

- See more at: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industryarticle/4228/geographical-indications-in-indian-handloomsector#sthash.7TuO9ovG.dpuf

Kachchh shawl
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected from Kachchh Shawls)

A traditional shawl maker from Kutch, Gujarat

A Kachchh shawl is a traditional shawl woven in the Kutch region of the Gujarat, India. These
are largely woven with Kachchhi motifs in Bhujodi village of Kutch.[1] Traditionally Kachchhi
weavers belong to Marwada and Maheswari communities.[2]
Kachchhi shawls have received geographical indication tag under the Geographical Indications
of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

Origin[edit]
There are two stories about the migration of weavers into the Kutch region around 500 years
ago. According to the first story a girl belonging to a rich Rabari family was married to a man in
Kutch and she was given a weaver in dowry. This family of weavers grew into a large community
in the following years.[1] The second story is related to Ramdev Pir who came to Kutch
from Rajasthan. Soon enough some of his followers built a temple in his praise and asked him to
bring some of his kin from Marwar, Rajasthan to take care of the temple. This led to the
settlement of the Meghwal community of weavers in Kutch.[1]

Types of shawls[edit]
1. Embroidered Shawl
2. Tie Dyed Shawl
3. Stole

EDABAD: The colourful Kutchi shawls, woven with motifs in one

solid colour throughout, has been granted the Geographical
Indication (GI) tag, a move which is expected to benefit its

hereditary weavers in Kutch region of Gujarat.

"We have been granted the GI tag for our Kutchi shawls, which is
famous worldwide. The tag will provide a push to its marketing and
also help check the cheap imitation being done in other parts of the
nation," President Kutch Weavers Association (KWA) Gabhubhai
Vankar told PTI.
The GI registration of this shawl will convey assurance of quality
and distinctiveness -- essentially attributed to the place of its origin
in a defined geographical locality.
"This tag will help over 1,200 weavers of Vankar and Meghwal
samaaj, in Kutch region spread across 210 villages," he said adding
that Kutch is the only regional cluster of weavers in India who can
create intricate motifs in thicker yarns of wool, cotton and silk.
There are currently 1,200 weavers who work in 210 villages of
Kutch of which 800-900 practice the craft full time. Around 2,400
women are engaged in preparatory and finishing processes, the GI
application stated.
The market of these shawls has been appropriated by cheap
industrial imitations of their intricate designs by factories in
Ludhiana, a KWA member said.
The shawls made of acrylic wool are dyed and have one solid bright
colour throughout.
"The shawl is woven with traditional Kutchi motifs and is processed
on handlooms largely in Bhujodi, a village of Kutch," Vankar said
adding that villages like Gambudi, Manukna, Bundra, Tukma also
house communities of such shawl weavers.
"The Kutchi shawls are sold in domestic markets and are exported

as well, to countries like US and Europe, among others," he said.

A 500-year-old history is linked with the weaving of Kutchi shawls in
Gujarat, which is deftly made by hereditary skills of the craftsmen
and women in Kutch.