Mission Leh! Four People, One Scorpio and One Helluva Road Trip! (Delhi-Leh Sep 2011) - Team-BHP PDF

4/3/2015
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MissionLeh!Fourpeople,onescorpioandonehelluvaroadtrip!(DelhiLeh
Sep2011)
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MissionLeh!Fourpeople,onescorpioandonehelluvaroadtrip!(DelhiLehSep
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categoryMISSIONLEH(Photosattheend)Itstheseasonagainforoneofthemost
excitingroadtrips,sono...
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14thJune2012,
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#1
MissionLeh!Fourpeople,onescorpioandonehelluvaroadtrip!(DelhiLehSep2011)
MISSIONLEH(Photosattheend)
Itstheseasonagainforoneofthemostexcitingroadtrips,sonobettertimethannowtopresentthispiece.Ifeel
excitedthinkingaboutwhatanAMAZINGroadtripIcompletedlastyearandtheplacesIvisitedaresovividly
imprinteduponmymemory,Icanalmostclosemyeyesandtouchthesevisions...butalas!thecushionsofmemories
cannotpreventthebiteofrealityfromgettingthroughtherealityofmebeingbackinmyofficeinGurgaon,the
realitythatIhaveameetingtogotoat4pmtoday,therealitythatIwillnotwakeuptomorrowmorningnotknowing
whereexactlyIamheadedtoandwhattoexpect,theharshharshrealityofknowingthatLehisaworldawayfrom
meandthatImightnotevergothereagain,forLehisnotanotherplacethatyoucanpackyourbagsforandjust
drivetotherearealotofvariablesthathavetofallintoplaceattheSAMEtimeforasuccessfulroadtriptoLeh
(familycommitments,workcommitments,weather,roadconditions,etc)
Well,Idonotknowwhereorhowtobeginshoulditbewithanintroductionofhowourwholetripcameintobeing,or
withadescriptionofthestrikinglyuniquenatureofladakhasaplace,orwithhowsadIamatbeingbacktoworkand
thedailyroutinesoflife??Thereareamyriadofthoughtsthatcreepintomymindatthispoint,allofaveryeclectic
natureandnotnecessarilyallconnectedtoeachother,sowhatIwilldoistostartpenningdown(inthiscasetyping
down)instancesasflashes,glimpsesandnotableexperiencesoftherecenttriptoLehziparoundinmyheadandin
frontofmyeyes,wordsfloodmythoughtsfasterthanIcanprocessthem,pointsofdefinitivementioncrowdand
screamforpriority,allarollingjuggernautofexpressionthatIsomehowplanonpresentingasatravelogue...a
traveloguethatmakessomesense...soheregoesnothing!!
Settingandbackground
Justlikeanygoodstory,abriefmentionofthebackdropofthistripanditsparticipantswillhelpallofyouputthis
pieceinperspectiveofwhatIthinkIwillcallMissionLeh
Flashback1(black&white)Theyearis2008.IgotmarriedinFebruary.IhadheardoftheroadtriptoLehbuthad
neverpaiditanyseriousattentionandhaddonezilchresearch.Myadventurousroadtripsthusfarhadbeenofa
veryroutinenaturewiththemservingthepurposeofgettingmefrompointAtoB(Rishikesh,Haridwar,Chail,etc).I
havealwaysbeenthekindwhoseeksadventure,butsomehowIcouldneverfindanythatcouldsatisfytheurge,and
tobehonest,Ineverreallymadeanyeffortsinthatdirection.Acoupleofyearsearlierafriendhaddonetheroadtrip
toLehinaScorpio,4guysandadriver(whyadriver???)andthatiswhenthegermofathoughtcameintobeing,
albeitaveryfuturisticthought,ofatriptoLeh.ItwasalwaysthereatthebackofmymindbutIneverreallydid
anythingaboutitIjusthadthiscognitiveswaggerinmethatwhenpeoplewereroutinelygoingtoSEAsia,Europe
andallthepopulardestinations,IwasTHINKINGofaroadtriptoLeh,anoffbeat,notsopopularnorpublicised
destination.Iwasbeingacouchadventurer,ifthereeverweresuchatermthatcouldbeusedtodescribewhatIwas
doing.Butinretrospect,alongwithsolidplanning,alotofthinkingISrequiredbeforedrivingtoLeh,thinkingaboutthe
thingsthatcouldgowrong,thehardshipsthatmightandwillhavetobeborne,thedustfilleddrivesthatwillleaveyou
http://www.teambhp.com/forum/travelogues/121968missionlehfourpeopleonescorpioonehelluvaroadtripdelhilehsep2011a.html
1/61
4/3/2015
dirtyasdirtygets,thealmostabsolutelackofcreaturecomfortsthatwillbeallthecomfortthatonegets,theever
lingeringpossibilityofAcuteMountainSickness(AMS)andofbeingoutofcommunicationwithyournearanddearones
forlongperiodsatatime.SothatisallthathappenedonMissionLehin2008
Interlude1Atthetimeofgettingmarried(2008),IsuggestedtomywifetobeatthattimethatwecouldgotoLeh
forourhoneymoon ShethoughtIwasmad,andafterhavingbeentoLeh,IthinkIWASactuallymadtosuggesta
placelikeLehforahoneymoon.WefinallywenttoKerala,whichisabeautifulplaceandIamsohappyIwentthere.
SoforallthoseyettobecomeaWefromaMe,Lehisastrictnonoforhoneymoonsorforthatmatter,forfirst
tripsaswell.GotoLehwithpeopleyouknowwell,becauseattimesthereisirritationbecauseofbadroads,loadsof
dust,badweather,andyouseriouslyneedsomeonetoblameforYOUhavingdecidedoncomingonthisroadtrip.
Beingwithpeopleyouknowandwhoknowyouisahelpinsuchsituations.Besides,sharingtheLehexperiencewith
peopleyoucareforisamust,becauseitisoneexperienceyouwillneverforgetandwilltalkaboutoften
MovingforwardabitTheyearis2009.ThelastrealtripthatIcanrememberisourhoneymoon,ayearback.My
brotherinlawgotmarriedinFeb2009,weallwenttoRanchiforthewedding,camebacktowork,alittlewhilelater
anotherofmywifescousinsgotengaged,wenttoacoupleofweekendsojournsaroundDelhi(Lansedown,Agra,
Jaipur)lifemeandersalongatalazypaceliketheebbofflowinamountainriveraswintersturnwatertoice,Im
caughtupinIdontknowwhatandhavelandedinasituationwhereIdonothaveanytime,butifoneweretoaskme
whatIvebeenbusywith,IwouldbehardpressedforananswerandbeforeIknowit2009iscomingtoanendand
MissionLehhasallbutALMOSTbeenforgotten,butfolksitisnotdeadyetthethoughtstillholdsapositiononmy
bucketlist,lastposition
Interlude2IownaSX4,whichIalsohadwhenalloftheabovewashappening(readthelongtermownershipreport
athttp://www.teambhp.com/forum/longt...roduction.html(SX4VXi,62000kmsAnownershipreportandabrief
introduction)).IwasoftheopinionthataroadtriptoLehintheSX4wouldbeataddifficultandwouldbecruelonthe
car.Incidentally,IholdthisviewaftercomingbackfromLeh,sedansandsmallcarsCANgotoLehviaRohtangetall,
butitalldependsontheweatheranditwouldstillbeharshonthecar.So,withmyfirmviewthatIwouldneedaSUV
forMissionLeh,andgiventhatIdidnothaveone,IwasstillgrapplingwiththeSLIGHTconcernofsourcingavehicle
forthetrip.ItwassortofaviciouscirclebecauseIdidnothaveaSUVIdidnotdoanyseriouslyplanningand
becauseIdidnotdoanyseriousplanning,IdidnotmoveforwardinsolvingtheSUVdilemma
Movingnearertothepresent(colourcomesbackintothemovie)Itsearly2010andIamnursingMissionLehback
tohealth.IhavestarteddoingsomeresearchandhavecomeacrossweirdsoundingplaceslikeTandi,Keylong,Jispa,
Sarchu.Man!HowwillIeverfigureouthowtoevenBEGINplanningtheroadtripwhenthenamesofplacessoundlike
somethingoutofaKungFumovie.AndwhatsourcedoItrustsurprisingly,noonehasbeentoLeh,buteveryone
seemstohavealotofgyantodoleoutonit.Whatsthedealwiththat!!Iaskmyfriendwhohaddonethisin2006but
becausehehimselfdidnotdrivehecanthelpmemuch.Iknowabsolutelyzeropeoplewhohavedonethisroadtrip
andwhocanadviceme.WhatdoesapoormandotoscoresomedopeonLeh??Aretherenogroups,noforumswhere
Icangainsomeinsight?Fruitfullyutilisingmytimeinoffice,IpromptlylogontoGoogleandtypesomekeywordsfor
LehandForum.Hmmm,thisisinteresting.ThereAREpeoplewhohavesharedexperiencesIcanpoachfrom.Iam
surprisedtofindoutthatthereareSOmanypeoplewhomaketheroadtriptoLeheachyear,andhereIwas
wonderingwhocangivemesomeadvice!!ItseemsMissionLehhasmovedforwardaninch!Afterscouringaplethora
offorums,Ifocusmyattentionontwo,oneofthembeingTBHP
AnAcknowledgmentAsmyinterestinLehstartedgrowingandasmyeffortsbecamemorefocussed,Icouldjust
aboutstarttomakesenseofdataonaregionIhadnoclueabout.AtthispointIwouldliketothankLOCOMOTIVE,a
fellowTBHPianforhisexcellentwriteuponhisroadtriptoLehinhisSX4(.http://www.team
bhp.com/forum/travel...adakhsx4.html(TheGreatIndianRoadtripMumbaitoLadakhinaSX4))Readingthecount
peakedmyinteresttoallnewlevelsandinstilledinmeabeliefthatICOULDinfacttakemySX4toLeh.So
LOCOMOTIVE,thanksaton!!IdidnoteventuallytaketheSX4,butreadingthatlogwasaturningpointinMissionLeh
fromthispointonIjustHADtodothistrip,itwasnolongeraquestionofifbutoneofwhen.ItwasnowMarch
2010
Interlude3EnterpossiblecompanionsThelifecycleofMissionLehhadreachedsuchastagenowthatitwas
realistictoaskfriends/familyaboutjoiningmeforLeh.Therewasmywifeforsure,myeverpresentcompanion.
Nowallwasleftwastoselltheplottoafewmorepeople.Usingmypowersofdeduction,Ithoughtthatnoteveryone
Iaskwouldbegameorwouldhavetime,thusmystrikeratewasexpectedtobelow.Socoupledwithmyexcitement,
IhadthisseeminglybrilliantideathatIshouldaskasmanypeopleaspossible.AndsoIdid.Family,friends,friends
offriendsIdidnotspareanyone.Whatthisdidwasturnthewholethingintoacircusalotofpeoplesaidyessubject
toleavesandotherthingsandIlandedupinamesswhereitseemedwewouldbethreecarloadsofpeoplegoingto
Leh!Amongthese,seriouscontendersweremybrotherinlawandhiswife,mywifescousinandhiswifeandabout4
friends.IcouldnotsaynotoanyofthepeoplewhoIhadalreadyasked,asthatwouldbeplainrude.SoIdidthenext
bestthing,IstoppedtalkingaboutitandwaitedtoseewhoallwouldgetbackintouchwithmeforMissionLeh
AstimewentbyanditbecameaboutMay2010,afewofmyfriendsandthefamilymentionedaboveweretheones
whodisplayedkeeninterestinasmuchasstatingthatyes,theywouldworkouttheirleaves,etconcetheplantook
someshapeIwastomakethatplanandthenpeoplewouldjumpinwiththeirinputs.Itbecomesataddifficultto
makea2weeklongprogramwithoutknowingwhoallisgoingforsure,especiallytoaplacelikeLeh,whereonehas
tofigureoutvehicles,route,stay,etc.GiventhatIdidnothaveasuitablecar(inmyopinion),Iwasmoreorless
dependentontwoofmyfriends,bothofwhohaveScorpios,forthistrip.OneofthesefriendsisinLucknowbutwould
keepcomingtoGurgaon.SoonanumberofoccasionswiththesefriendsIwouldbringupthistopic,andeverybody
wouldgetexcitedandmakeallsortofplans.However,astheseplanswerenotreallygoinganywhereforcertain,my
friendsmadeotherplansandsuggestedthatwegoinJune2011toLeh.IagreedatthattimebecauseIthoughtI
wouldneedthatmuchtimetoreallygetabsolutelyeverythinginorderandalsoIhadtheslightissueofavehicle
Thus,MissionLehonceAGAINwentonthebackburnerandinSeptember2010,mybrotherinlaw,hiswife,mywife
andIwenttoa20daytriptotheUSA,wherewehavefamilyandcousins.Thatwasawonderfultripinitself,butnot
relevantinthistravelogue
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4/3/2015
Year2011WehavebeenbackfromourUStrip,celebratedNewYearsEvewithgusto,andaregenerallyentwinedin
themundanecoursethatlifeusuallytakesinaplacelikeGurgaon/Delhi.AtthetimeIgotmarriedinFeb2008,we
realizedthatwewouldneedasecondcarformywifetodrivetoworkandbackandforgeneralmobilitypurposesfor
her.Wehadwantedanewcar,butduetobudgetconstraints,wehadboughtasecondhandWagonR.By2011,ithad
beenalmostthreeyearssincemywifehadbeendrivingaroundinthatWagonRandalthoughthecarhadservedher
well,wethoughtitwastimeforachangebecausemywifealwayswantedanewcarandtheWagonRistoo
underpowered.Sobeganournewcarsearchandfrommovingtosmallhatchbackstoentrymidsizedsedanswe
finallydecidedupontheScorpioMHawk,SLE(checkoutthebuyingdecisionandinitialownershipreportat
http://www.teambhp.com/forum/testd...2500kms.html(ScorpioMHawk,SLE:InitialOwnershipReport@2,500
kms)).Aspointedoutintheattachedlinkaswell,MissionLehwasahugeinfluencerinourdecisiontobuytheScorpio
WebookedthecarinJuneandsubsequently,INALLHONESTYbeganSERIOUSandDETAILEDplanningforMissionLeh.
Icheckedbackwithalltheinterestparties.Somefriendsbackedoutandonewasgettingmarriedlaterintheyearso
hehadtopreservehisvacations.Sointheendofitall,therewasmybrotherinlaw&hiswife,mywifescousin&his
wifeandmywife&IandoneScorpio.ThecarwasduefordeliveryinthefirstweekofJulyandtakingintoaccount
therunninginperiodofa1000kms,weplannedthetripfor19August,2011.Igotthedeliveryofthebeautyon3rd
July,2011.Giventhatthereforsixofus,Igotoneofthebackseatsremovedandgotaroofmountedcarrier
installed.WewereallsetforMissionLeh!Yearsofyearningandplanningwasfinallygoingtocometofruitiononthe
19thofAugust2011(0day)!!
PlanningAllsixofusinvolvedwithMissionLehwouldexchangemailseverydayonwhatwouldbetheitinerary,
whatalltocarry,howmuchtocarry,whatwouldbethebudgetgenerallyexcitementlevelswereatanalltimehigh,
workseemedtobethelastthingoneveryonesmindandthecountdownhadbegun,witheachpassingdaybringingus
closertoourdepartureononeofthegreatestroadtrips!IhaveafriendinthehospitalityandtourismindustryinDelhi
(Jaggi)andanotherfriendwhoisanativeofLehandwhohasjustrecentlyestablishedhisownsetupandcatersto
tourisminLeh/Ladakh(Stanzin)(bothcollegefriends).Afterafewiterationsourplanwasfinalisedasfollows:
19/8LeaveintheeveningforChandigarh
20/8ChandigarhtoManali
21/8ManalitoTandi
22/8TanditoSarchu
23/8SarchutoLeh
24/8Leh
25/8LehtoPangong
26/8PangongtoLeh
27/8LehtoNubra
28/8NubratoLeh
29/8LehtoLlayamuruandback
30/8LehtoTsoMoriri
31/8TsoMoriritoTandi
01/9TanditoManali
02/9ManalitoDelhi
Sothiswasthe15dayplanthatwehadchartedoutforourselvestosuccessfullyaccomplishMissionLeh.Wehadon
purposekepttheschedulespreadoutsowewouldnotberushedatanytime.Twoofourcompanionsweretoflyback
toDelhion30/8astheywerehardpressedforleavesfromwork
Sobeganourpurchaseswarmclothes,gloves,bodywarmersforusandjerrycans,towingline,tyrerepairkitetcfor
theScorpio.Moreonwhatallwetooklater.Astimeforustoleavecamenearer,thingswerelookingupbeat,
preparationswerealmostdoneandwewererearingtogo,exceptforthesmallissueofitrainingnonstopandbeyond
seasoninHP...
SetbackIhadmentionedearlierthatLehisnotaplacewhereonecanjustpacktheirbagsandbeofftoall
variableshavetobefavourableforonetohaveasuccessfulroadtriptoLeh.As0daywasapproaching,thoughnot
fastenoughforallofus,therainsjustwouldnotstop.Ihadsetupthiswatchlistof45websiteswhereIwouldcheck
updateseverydayfortheweatherenroutetoLeh.Apparently,whileLehitselfwasbrightandsunny,HPseemedtobe
experiencinghugeamountstorainfall,incessantly.About810daysbefore0day,wereadthattheroadnearMandi
gotwashedoutandalittlelaterwereadthatitwasunsureifRohtangwouldbepassablewithsomuchrain.Muchas
ourspiritstriedtosoar,therainswouldmakesurethatweremainedapprehensive.Astherainpiledonsodidour
miseryandthepossibilityofusnotbeingabletoleaveon0dayseemedtobegettingmorerealisticbytheday.Even
thoughweknewthatifitcontinuedtorain,orforthatmatterifitrainsheavilynearRohtangevenadaybeforeweare
tocrossit,wewouldnotbeabletodoso,wewereofthefirmbeliefthatweWOULDleaveon0dayandbravethe
elementsandatleastgoasfaraswecouldandhopefullywewouldmakeitthroughRohtang.WeknewthatRohtang
wasthebiggesthurdleforustocross.However,wewerejustbeingquixotic,andeachpassingdaypresenteduswith
everincreasingadvicefromeldersinthefamilysoundadvicethoughunsolicited(whattheheck!!Weare30yrolds,
notjuveniles!!)
AftermuchadoaboutMissionLeh,itseemedthatallwouldbefornought!!Finallyweboweddowntofamilypressure
andtheneverendingrainfallanddecidedtopostponethetrip,ifnotcancelit,assuggested.Itseemedimprobable
thatalldecidingfactorswouldfavourallofus,allatonce,again.MissionLehseemedtohavetakenagunshotwound
tothestomach.MissionLehseemedtobedyingaslowandpainfuldeath.Itneededamedictostepinandtakecharge
ofthings,giveitashotofmorphine,operateuponitanddowhateverthehellittooktomakesurethatMissionLeh
DID.NOT.DIE!!
ChangeofPlansWewereallinthedumpsandkepttellingeachotherthatmaybeitwasnottobethistimeround.
Becausewehaddonesomuchplanning,noonewasreallyreadytojustletitgo.Aftermuchdiscussion,Icalledup
Stanzinandtoldhimthatwewouldliketodeferourprogramby3weeks,withtheitineraryremainingexactlyasit
3/61
4/3/2015
wasexceptthechangeofdates,becauseitjustwouldnotstopraininginHP
Tillaboutaweekago(before0day)wecouldhardlywaittoleaveandnowwewerestuckwithanother3weeksand
theprospectofnotgoingatall,becausewhoknowswhatwouldhappeninthoseensuing3weeks.So,wehadalready
plannedeverything,sotherewasnothingtodobuttodragourselvesalongtoworkandjustgetonwithit
GoodDecisionAsouroriginallyscheduleddateofdeparturecamenearerandnearer,Ikeptacheckonthewebsites
eachdaytoseeifourdecisiontodeferthetriphadbeenawiseoneornot.Asitturnedout,on19/8(0day)Rohtang
hadbeenclosedfor2dayswithabouta100peopleinallstuckoneithersides.TherewasahugelandslideandtheJCB
usedtoremoveithadbrokendownitself.Soourdecisionseemedextremelywiseinretrospect,becauseifwehad
left,wewouldbeamongthe100oddpeoplestuckaroundRohtangandIdontthinkwewouldhavecomebackand
madeafreshplanagainforafewweekslater.So,phew!!
Note:BCMTouringwebsitehasadaybydayupdateontheroadconditionfromManalitoLeh
AnotherSetbackItseemedthatwewouldhavetoovercomeonesetbackafteranothertoaccomplishMissionLeh!
Soonaswesortedoutonething,somethingelsewouldturnturtle.Asluckwouldhaveit,mywifescousinsleavesgot
cancelled.So,IagaincalledStanzinandtoldhimthatafterhavingdeferredallourbookingsby3weeks,wewere
sorrytoinformhimthat2ofushaddroppedout.Stanzinwashelpfulenoughandniceenoughtoaccommodatethis
changeinplansaswell
FINALLY,ourrevised0day,09/09comes!!WhileplanningforMissionLeh,becausesomuchcraphadalreadyhitthe
fanthattherewasnoplacelefttoduck,allwecoulddowasPRAYthatnomorecrapwouldhitthefan
Asdayswentby,ourexcitementlevelsagainstartedpeakingandwewereallgunghoaboutMissionLeh,butthe
damnrainwouldjustnotstopfalling!ItwasnotasheavyasaroundmidAugust,butwasstillthere.Rohtangwas
open,butallitneededwasonedayofheavyrainforittoshutdownandthrowallourplansawry
WeleftforChandigarhon09/09atabout5.30pm.ThatdayitwasPOURINGinDelhiandforthosefamiliarwithDelhi,
nearthenewelevatedroadfromjustbeforeRajghattoISBT,theringroadwasunderaboutafootofwaterandcars
werefindingitdifficulttopassthrough.Itwasareallydepressinganddemotivatingsightforthefourofusour
journeyhadnotevenbegunanditseemedtheraingodshaddecidedtoruinourpartyforus.Nonetheless,witha
prayeronourlipswesetoutuponMissionLeh!
AswemovedoutofDelhi,therainstartedtosubsideandinaboutanhourstimetherewasnorainatall.Astheroads
begantodrysodidourspiritsandwebeganbelievingthatyes,wecandothisandthattheweathergodsmayfinally
havecastafavourableeyeuponus
So,stoppingonourwayacoupleoftimesforfoodanddrinks,withmywifedrivingallofus,wefinallyreached
HimachalBhawaninChandigarhatabout11pmon0day,09/09.Wecheckedinandhitthesackbymidnight
Day1(10/09)ChandigarhtoManali301kms9hrs
Nextmorning,Day1,theweatherwascrackingwithbrightsunshineandnosignsofrainatall .Sowithspiritsfresh
asmorningdew,webeganourjourney.WeleftHimachalBhawanat7amenroutetoManali.Theroadsjustoutside
ofChandigarhtillthetollatRoparwereinprettybadshape,butifIhadknownthekindofroadsthatwewould
encounterlater,Iwouldneverhavecomplained.FromRopartill7kmsshyofKiratpur,wherewebegintheclimbto
Manali,theroadwasanabsolutebeautywithminimaltraffic.However,wehadascarymomentwhenontheflyover
attheKiratpurManalijunction,thereweretwobusescomingfullpeltonthewrongcarriagewayandwehappenedto
encounterthemonthebendintheflyover.Nothingreallyhappened,exceptafewmissedheartbeatsandflutters.Itis
whenthingslikethishappenthatmybeliefisreiteratedthatoneshouldneverdrivetoofastonhighwaysinIndia,
howevergoodtheymaybe
Afterthispotentiallyhazardousencounterandafewchoicewordsforthebusdrivers,wecontinuedonwards.The
journeywasmostlyuneventful,thoughwedidencounteralotoftrucksallalong,duetotheACCcementfactoryat
Barnala.Afterstoppingforaquickandprettybadbreakfastofovercookedandgooeymaggi,oilyomeletteandburnt
paranthas,wereachedBarnala.ThereweencounteredatrafficjamoftheACCfactorytrucks.Whenthingsdidnot
moveformorethanabout15minutes,mybrotherinlawgotdownandwentaheadtoseewhattheproblemwas.In
about5minutesthingsstartedtomoveandwhenIpickedupmybrotherinlawfromabitdowntheroadhetoldme
thatthereweretwopolicemenchallaningatruck,whichtheyhaddecidedtheywouldstopbanginthemiddleofthe
road!Mybotherinlawtoldthemthatthishadcreatedahugejamandfinallytheymovedthetrucktotheside.It
amazesmetoseesuchlackofconcernandcommonsense,seriously!!Fromthispointonwheneverweencountered
anyjamorroadblock,wewouldsendmybrotherinlawtoinvestigateandinvariablythingswouldstartmoving.He
hadbecomeourluckycharmwhenitcametoroadblocks
IhadneverbeentoManaliearlierandinallmyresearchIhadnevercomeacrossthe3kmslongtunnelnearAut.I
waspleasantlysurprisedatthisencounter.Withoutanythingelseworththementionhere,wereachedManaliatabout
4pm.WecheckedintoClubMahindra(brotherinlawisamember).Theroomstherearereallynicewithatwotier
setup,onebedroomandbathroomonthegroundfloorwithstepsleadingupforanidenticalsetuponthefirstfloor.
Theweatherheretoowasextremelypleasantanduponaskingtheguardwefoundoutthatithadnotrainedfor2days
inManalianditdidntlooklikerainonthatdayaswell.Yippee!!Itseemedwewerebeingrewardedforallourefforts
andpersistence.WejusthopeditwouldntraininthenightsowecouldcrossRohtangwithoutmuchdifficulty,butwe
hadABSOLUTELYnoideawhatRohtangwasandhadinstoreforus
GiventhatfromManalionwards,ourmobilephoneswouldnotbeworkingforalmosttheentirewaytillLeh,Icalled
StanzinandtookcontactdetailsanddirectionsfortheplaceswewouldbestayingatTandiandSarchu
Weorderedsomesnacksandchangedintoournightclothesaswewereabittiredandwereplanningonleavingearly
4/61
4/3/2015
thenextdayforRohtang.Wegenerallyloungedaround,ate,drankandtookafewphotos.Wewenttohaveourdinner
atabout9andwerebackandreadytohitthesackby10.30.SothatwasallthatoccurredonDay1
Note:OncehastocollectapermitfromtheSDMforallnonHPnumberedvehiclesgoingtoRohtangandbeyond,
withoutwhichonecannotgobeyondManali.Weknewsomeonewhoarrangedforthepermitandwepickeditupfrom
Kulluonourway
Day2(11/09)ManalitoTandiviaRohtang125kms7.5hrs
Wehadbeentoldthatitwouldtakeusupwardsof4hourstoreachRohtangastherewasusuallyatrafficjamof
Manalitouristsgoingup.Itdidtakeusupwardsof4hours,butforverydifferentreasons.Wewokeupat4.30amwith
aplanofleavingManaliby5am.Itwascoldbuttheweatherwasclearandthankfullyithadnotrainedduringthe
night.Weleftasplanned.IwasexpectingthattherewouldbesignificanttraffictryingtobeattherushatRohtangby
leavingearlybutinthefirst1015minutesweencounteredabsolutelynoone
InabouthalfanhourafterleavingManali,Iforthefirsttimeinmylifeencounteredlackofpowerinanycar.Manali
toRohtangisonly52kmsbutonegainsmorethan7,000feet,morethantheheightofManaliitself(about6600ft).
Weencounteredaherdofgoatsandhadtoslowdowntoastop.WhenItriedtopickupthecarin1stgearasI
usuallydo,Icouldfeellackofanypowertransmissionandcouldfeeltheenginephysicallygaspingforair.Amoment
ofpanicsetinthiswasanexperiencetotallyalientomeinmy17yearsofdrivingthusfar!!Icouldseethewriting
onthewallaboutthekindofdrivingexperienceIwasgoingtohavetillLeh,wherethelowestaltitudewouldbeLeh
itself,atabout11000ft,barringTandiatabout10500ft.However,thepanicsoonpassedandIimmediatelychanged
mydrivingstyleandkepttheenginewellabovethe2500rpmrange.Thisstylealsonecessitatedgreateruseofthe
clutchtorevtheenginewhilemovingfromadeadstopelsethecarjustdidnotpickupdrivinginthenormalstyle.
Havingwelladaptedtothisstyle,wemovedonandallthiswhilewehadyetnotencounteredasinglecarortourists,
thoughwedidcomeacrossafewtrucksandbusesferryinglocals.WereachedMarhi,whichwouldbeabout10kms
shortofRohtanginabout2hours.Here,onehastogetthepermitsigned.Weweretoldthatwewouldhavetokeep
thepermitwithusandgetitsignedatKoksaronourwaybackanddeposititasMarhi
TillnowwehadnotreallyencounteredanyoftheslushconditionsthatwehadreadthatwewouldencounteratRani
NullaonwaytoRohtang.WehadthoughtRaniNullawouldprobablybeafewhundredmetersstretchwithslushand
giventhattherehadbeennorainforthepasttwodays,wewerenotreallyexpectingittobeanissue.Butman!!We
weresosowrong!!AndnowIknowwhytheofficialatMarhicheckingpermitsseemedsurprisedandabitamusedto
seeusgoingtoRohtang.Hemusthavethoughtusabunchofignorantfoolsinwayoverourheads!Butthatsnottrue
wewereabsolutelywellinformedaboutwhattoexpect,itsjustthatwehadgrosslyunderestimatedthescaleand
extentofthingstocome
Inlessthan500metersfromMarhiwecametoabendintheroadwherethereweretrucksparkedinthemiddleof
theroad.Thisiswheretheslushbeganandtherewastonsofit,about812inchesdeep!!Insomeplaces,itwaseven
deeper.HerewemetthefirstandlastvehicleotherthantrucksandbusesontheroadfromManalitoRohtangalocal
Sumoferryinglocalsonasharedbasis.Anyways,westoppedbehindthetrucksandwaitedforthemtomove,butthey
justwouldnt.Afterabout10minuteswerealizedthattherewasaUturnaheadandthetrucksweretakingitoneata
timelesttheygetstuckbehindeachotherintheslush.Finallycameourturntogoandwemovedahead.Iwasdriving
andmybrotherinlawwasbesidesme.IcametotheUturnandtookawidelinegoingupandleft.Thatwasa
mistakeImadebecauseallthetruckshadtakentheinsidelineandhadmadesomesortoflinetofollowandtheright
sidewasallvirginslush.Inabout20meters,IhadtostopandreversebacktotheUturnandtaketheinsideline.
Here,thealmostafootdeepslushandthehighaltitudeplayedhavocwiththetractionandIhadtopresstheclutch,
revtheenginetobeyond3000rpmandthenonlycouldIgetsometractionintheslush.Thegoingwassodifficultthat
Ihadtolookdirectlyaheadtomakesurewhichlinetotake.Somybrotherinlawwasgiventhetaskoflooking
furtherdowntheroadtofigurewhatsideoftheroadIshouldtrytomovetowards.Thismaynotseemlikemuch,but
giventheextensivelyslushyconditions,ifIdidnotdecidewhatlinetotakeinadvancethenitmightbecome
impossibleformetochangedrivinglinesandmoveovertotheothersideoftheroad
Ifeltarealadrenalinerushmingledwithrawnervesonthisdrive.Onnumerousoccasions,asIrevvedtheengineand
thenletgooftheclutch,therearendwouldjustslideoutandwewouldbemovingatabout45degreestotheroad.I
hadseenonTVhowonracetrackspeoplegettherearslidingandcontrolthedirectionbyturningthesteeringinthe
directionoppositetothatoftheslide.SothatisexactlywhatIdid,althoughitcameinstinctivelyandseemedlikethe
logicalthingtodo.Mywifeandbrotherinlawswifewereintherearseatandwereliterallypraying.Honestly.
However,Inevergotscaredforonce.Nervousyes,butIwasreallyexcitedtobedoingthis.Thiswasrealoffroading
stuff!!Therewerejusttwothingsthatworriedmethepossibilityofgettingstuckandthenhavingtogetofftopush
thecarbecauseofsomuchslushandtheotherwasofhittinghiddenrocksbigenoughtoscrewourtrip
Itriedtodrivealongtherutsthatthetruckshadmade,butitwasnotentirelypossiblebecausegiventhehighground
clearanceofthetrucks,themudinbetweentherutswasjusttoohighinsomeplacesfortheScorpioandIwould
moreoftenthannothithiddenrocks.So,makingmyownroute,weslowlymovedahead.Insomeplaces,Ihadto
takesuchextremelinesthattheScorpiowouldtiltsomuchthattherunningboardwouldscrapetheground,butman
wasitfun!!
Afteraboutanhourintothemadness,werealizedthatwehaddoneonly4kms,andallin1stgearatabout30003500
rpm!!Atthispointwecouldsmellsomethingburningitseemed.Atthattimewethoughtitmightbethetyres,asthey
hadbeenspinningandscreechingandscreamingfortraction.Butadayorsolaterwerealizedthatitwastheclutch
platesbeginningtogethotandsticky.Welaterfoundoutfromfellowtravellersthatthisisoneproblemthatthe
Scorpiosuffersfromifonewouldpushittoohardfortoolongthentheclutchstartstogive.Icantentirelyblamethe
carafter1hourat3500rpm,butinallhonesty,onewouldexpectmoreendurancefromaScorpio
Atthispoint,Iwouldliketoshareadrivingtip.Whendrivinginslushyconditions(orinsand),wheneverthetyresget
stuckandstartspinning,thenneverpresson.Always,reverseabit(only12meters)turnthesteeringabitandtryto
takeaslightlydifferentline.Steppingonthegaswouldonlysetthewheelsindeeper.IdidthiscontinuouslyonRani
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Nulla,otherwiseIwoulddefinitelyhavebeenstuckinmoreplacesthanIwouldcaretomention
Soslippingandsliding,withabsolutelynoothervehiclesontheway,wereachedRohtangfromMarhiin2.5hours,a
distanceof10kms!!Thishadbeenanextremelyhighrevvingdriving,allin1stgear.ButIwouldliketomentionthat
despitedrivingtheScorpiofor2.5hrs,in1stgearat30003500rpm,neveroncedidthetemperatureneedlemove
evenamillimetrebeyondwhereitusuallyis!!Iwasexpectingsomeoverheating,butnoneatallwasexperienced.So,
onthatcount,theScorpiogetspluspoints
SmallcarsandSedans?NOWAY!!Afterhavingcompletedthisdrive,IwasreallyhappythatIdidnotgettheSX4.
OnadayliketheonethatwecrossedRaniNullaon,thereisabsolutelynowaythatanycarbutaSUVcouldhave
madethatstretchtheunderbodywouldhavebeentorntoshreds!!
Ifithadrainedthatday,wewouldneverhavemadeitIfeel.Infact,onourentiretrip,sincethetimeweleftDelhi
tillthetimewereachedback,weexperiencedabsolutelynorain!!Thegodswerewithus!!Thisjustgoestoshowthat
besideshavingawellthoughtoutplanandbeingwellprepared,sometimesyoujusthavetotakethatfirststepand
getmovinganditissurprisinghowthingsfallintoplace.Theremaybesmallhurdles,butbeingdeterminedandwell
preparedwouldseeyouoverthem
SohavingconqueredRaniNullaandfeelingafoottaller,wereachedRohtang.Ihadheardalotandseenalotofphotos
ofRohtang,butonthatdaytherewasnotasoulthere.Manandbeastalikehaddecidedtobeelsewhere.Wecouldnot
evenfindacupofteaorabottleofwater.Infact,onourwaybackwerealisedthatonourwayup,wehadcrossed
Rohtangwithoutevenknowingit.WegottoRohtangatabout9.15amandspenthalfanhourtakingpicturesand
generallytakingabreak.ThebiggesthurdleinMissionLehhadbeenovercome
MybotherinlawtookoverdrivingdutiesfromhereandweleftRohtangat9.45am.TheroadfromRohtangdownto
Koksarisnotparticularlygooditsnotbadbutcouldhavebeenbetter.ButIguessintheScorpioonegetsthrown
aroundabitmoreandthecarreallybobsupanddownonbadroads.Wehadalotofthisbobbingandbeingthrown
aroundonMissionLeh
FromRohtangtoTandi,itsabout75kmsandwedidthatin2.5hours.FromKoksartoTanditheroadisprettydecent.
ItsonlywhenwenearTandithattheroadbecomesalittlenarrow.AsonenearsJ&KandleavesHP,theroads
becomenarrowerandonmanystretches,areusuallywideenoughforonecarandwhentwovehiclescrosspaths,both
havetopulloverandslowlycross.Atthesetimes,thoseonthesideofthedropshouldbecarefultonotpullovertoo
much
Livingontheedge:About5kmsshortofTandionsucharoadwecameacrossatruckcomingfromtheotherside.My
brotherinlawhadtopullovertotheedge.WhenIlookedouttoseewhereexactlywewereinrelationtotheedge,to
myhorrorIsawthatthefrontlefttyrewasaboutaninchOVERtheedge!!Itoldmybrotherinlawtonotmovean
inchandletthetruckfigureouthowtocrossus.Eventuallyitwentclearandwecouldcomebacktothemiddleofthe
road.Thatwasthescariestmomentoftheentirejourneyforme.AnotherfewINCHESandwecouldhaveendedupin
theSutlejandIwouldntbewritingthislog.Sothiswasoneofthoseseatofyourpantsmoments!
Afterthislittleincident,wereachedthefuelpumpatTandi.WegottheScorpiotoppedup(60ltrs).Althoughwehada
40litrejerrycan,wedidnotthinkwewouldreallyneedittillLeh,whichwasanother360kms.Aftertankingup,we
reachedourdestinationat12.15pm.WewerestayingatthesehutscalledDrilbuRetreatnexttotheGuruGhantal
Monastery.Yup,thatsthename.Immediatelyafterthefuelpump,wetookarightandclimbedupasteeproadto
cometoDrilbuRetreat.WehadwantedtostayatJispa,butStanzinsuggestedthatwestayhereandIamgladthat
wedid.Drilbuhasabout20cottageswithattachedbathrooms,butweretheonlyonesthere.Theplaceisreallynice
withaveryhospitablestaffandaviewtokillfor
Weaskedourhost,RajutomakesomeFrenchfriesforuswhilewesetupatablenexttothehilloverlookingtheriver
andtookinthebreathtakingview.Weidledaroundandhadlunchat2.30pmandtookalittlenap.Wewokeup,had
tea,drovedowntothemarkettobuysomeessentialsandgenerallydidnothing.Withsunsetatabout6pmthe
weatherbecamereallycoldallofasudden.Weworeoursweaters,jacketsandcapsandsatoutsidetoenjoyafew
drinkswithhotpakodasthatRajupreparedforus.Wewrappeduptheeveningwithdinneratabout9pmandwewere
tuckedinbedby10.ThusendedDay2ofMissionLehandatIcansafelysaythatithasbeenoneofthemosteventful
andexcitingdaysofanyvacationsofarforme
MyadvicetoallthoseplanningtobreaktheirjourneyataroundTandi/Keylong/Jispawouldbetoconsiderstayingat
Drilbutogetafeeloftheoutdoorswithdecentfacilities.Tandithoughcold,isstillnotascoldasPangongorNubra
andstayingincottagesismoderatelypleasant
Day3(12/09)TanditoSarchu125kms6hrs
WewokeuptoabrightdayandafteraquickbreakfastweleftforSarchuby8am.Thedrivewasokandmostly
uneventfulexceptforourfirstlandslidethatweencounteredabout3hoursoutofTandi.TherewasaJCBclearing
thingsupandwegottotalkingtoafewpeoplewhowerealsowaitingfortheroadtoclearup.Therewemetacouple
fromPolandontwofirangbikes.TheyhadleftPolandinJulyandwereplanningingettingbackbyChristmas!!These
guyshadalotoftimeandrealgritanddeterminationtobedoinga6monthbikingtour.Theyhadtentsandhadno
bookingsorreservationsmadetheywerereallylivingitup.Wealsometagroupof4guysfromthearmedforcesin
aScorpiowhotoldusthattheirclutchplatewentbust(theirScorpiohaddone25000kms)onRaniNullaandtheyhad
tospendanightonthemountainside.Wecountedourblessingsthatwehadnosuchillluck.Anyhows,theroad
clearedupinabouthalfanhourandwewereonourway
WereachedSarchuby2pmandcheckedintoourtents.Thedaywasniceandbrightandtheplaceislikeahuge
field,withmountainsoneitherside.Lunchwasoverbythetimewereached,sowewentuptothemarket,8kms
awayandhadaprettylousymealofdal,veggies,rotiandrice,allcookednottoowellandforwhichwehadtopayRs
600!!Beforethelunch,amistakethatwemadewasthatwehadabitofvodkaeach.Now,beforecomingwehadhad
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nomedicinesuchasDiamox,wehadallofasuddenreachedaheightofabout14,500feetandwewerenothavingas
muchwaterasweprobablyshouldhave.AddtothistheEXTREMELYwindynatureofSarchuandwehadthemakings
ofabitofadisasteronourhands
Bythetimewefinishedlunch,wewerefeelingabitheavyheadedalready.Wewentbacktoourcampsbyabout5pm
anddecidedtorestforabit.Inabouthalfanhourtoanhourstime,thesunsetandgiventhewindchillfactorthere,
itbecameextremelyanduncomfortablycold.Mywifewasfeelingverynauseated,hadamassiveheadacheandcould
notstopshiveringdespitelayersofheavyclothing.Thoughsufferingfromaheavyhead,Iwasfinetillnow.Byabout7
pm,wecouldhearmybrotherinlawthrowingupinthetentnexttoours.Heispronetomigrainesandstarts
throwinguponcethesituationgetstoobad,andwehavetonecessarilyhavetogivehiminjectionsfornauseaand
pain,becauseoralmedicationdoesnotwork,hejustthrowsitallup.Whatwefearedhappenedafterthrowingup56
times,hiswifecameandtoldusthatwewouldhavetotakehimtothehospital.Therewasanarmysetupnearthe
marketthatwehadgoneto,sowetookhimtothedoctorthere.Bythistime,mywifewasalsoinprettybadshape.
Thedoctortestedtheoxygensaturationintheirbloodanditcameuptosome65%,whichIwastoldwasextremely
low.SothetwoofthemweregivenIVdripsandwereputonpureoxygen.Iamsureourlevelsofoxygensaturation
wouldalsoturnuplow,ifwegotthemtested
ThedoctorgaveusallDiamoxandsomeParacetamolandtoldustohavehalfatabletinthemorningandeveningfor
thenextfewdays.Heaskedushowmuchwaterweweredrinkingeachdayandwetoldhimabout23litres.Hesaid
thatweshouldhave910litresadaywhileinLadakh,becausethelowairpressureandthedrynessleadstoalotof
waterloss.HegaveusalllargeglassesofwarmwaterIaskedhimwhywarmwaterandhetoldmethatifonewere
tohaveasorethroatorcatchacoldthere,itwouldbealmostimpossibletocureit,sothewarmwaterwasa
preventivemeasure
Wordofadvice:PleasehavewarmwaterwhileinLadakhandwhateveryoumaynotcarry,DOREMEMBERtocarry
loadsofbottledwater.FromSarchuonwards,wewerebuyingalmost20bottlesofwateraday!!Weboughtcloseto
250bottlesofwater!!So,buyfromsomewholesaleplaceandsaveyourselfalotofmoney
Itwasalreadyabout8pmandinthehospitalitseemedlikeitwouldtakeanotherhouratleastasthedoctorwantedto
keepthepatientsonoxygentilltheystabilised,andwewerewonderinghowwewouldmanagedinner,whichwassure
tobeupbythetimewewentbacktocamp.Thedoctorhadleftandsaidthathewouldbereturninglater.Therewere
twoofhisarmyorderliesthereandtheyoffereddinnertomeandmybrotherinlawswife!!Shehadspicychicken
curryandIbeingavegetariangotdalandlauki.Itwasyummyfoodandliftedourspiritsabitaswegottotalkingto
theorderlies.TheywerefromBengalandGujaratandtoldusthatthearmysetupinSarchuwasprimarilytosupport
touristsandarmymovementsthroughthatarea.WesawthereallytoughconditionsthattheyliveinandIfoundnew
respectfortheArmyfolksstayingthereandservingtheirfellowcountrymenandforeigntourists.Iwasespecially
touchedbytheirhospitality
Sowithourlittleoutingtothearmyhospital,wereturnedtoourcampsby9:15orso.Luckilydinnerwasstillon,so
mywifeandbrotherinlawhadabittoeat.TherewemetagroupontheirwaybackfromLehenroutetoDelhi.They
toldusthatMorePlainswasabsolutelyhorriblewiththeroadmostlyunderconstructionandthatwewouldhaveto
drivethroughtheplains,whereroadswerereallyhorrible.Theyaskedusifwewerecarryingextradieselandwesaid
noandthentheysaidthatweweremakingamistakeandthatwemightneedextrafuel.Well,wereallyhadno
choice,soweignoredthatfactandanywaysIthought60litresfor360kmswasMOREthanenough.Theguysinthis
groupthentoldusthattheyhadcomeviaKashmirandweregoingbackfromRohtang,withaScorpioandaSwift!!!I
toldthemthatifRohtangwasanythinglikewhatitwaswhenwecameup,twodaysback,thentherewasnowayon
godsgreenearththattheyweretakingthatswiftdownRaniNulla.Dontknowhowtheyfared,hopetheydidnthave
anyproblem
Sowithprettymuchallofusinlowspiritsandillhealth,weretiredtoourrespectivetentsforthenight.Andthat,is
whenthingsstartedgoingbadwithme.SoonasIlaydown,Istartedshiveringmadly.Iwaswearinganinner,a
sweatshirt,asweater,woollencap,socksandwasinsideaquiltandwasfeelingsocoldasifsomeonehadputmeout
onice.Soonafter,Istartedfeelingnauseatedandhadaheadachesobad,itwasasifsomeoneweretryingtobreak
freefromtheinsideoutwithasledgehammer.Ihadneverfeltsoillinmylife!!
IhadreadaboutAMSalotbeforecomingbuthadneverthoughtitwouldhappentome.Butman!!Ithitsyoulikea
freighttrainandthereisabsolutelynothingyoucandoexceptpraythatitwouldntgetworse,becauseturningback
wasneveranoption
Sothisishowwespentthenight,withtheknowledgethatthenextdaywouldbeatoughdayandthelongestand
mosttiringdriveyet
Day4(13/09)SarchutoLeh240kms9.5hrs
Afteranightoffitfulsleep,poundingheadachesandshiveringbodies,wewokeupat7amandSarchudidntseemlike
themostintelligentplacetohavestoppedforthenight.Wewashedupthebestwecouldwithahalfbucketofhot
waterthatwasprovidedtoeverytentwedidntreallycare,wejustwantedtoleaveSarchu!Westillhadheavyheads
butthesunseemedtomakethewholethingalittlemorebearable.Soat7.30am,weloadedthecarupandeveryone
satinsideandthenthenextproblemoccurred,theScorpiowouldnotstart!!
Itriedandtriedandtriedbuttonoavail,thedamnenginewouldnotturnover.ThenalocalInnovataxichapcame
overandtoldmesomethingthatreallysurprisedmeallMahindravehicleshavethisstartingproblematsuchheights
whileToyotacars,includingtheprehistoricQualis,havenosuchproblems.NowondersomanyQualissstillrunin
Ladakh.IwasreallydisappointedwiththeScorpioandrealizedwhysomanypeoplearecrazyaboutToyotacars
reliabilityandefficiency,butthenIthoughtnotallmyroadtripswouldbeatsuchcrazyheightsandfoundsome
comfortinthatthought,affirmingmydecisiontobuytheScorpio
TheInnovachapthenopenedthehoodandpumpedthefuelpumpvigorouslyandafterabout5minutesandwefinally
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managedtogetthecarstarted.Weallfeltlikecrapandweretellingeachotherthatmaybeourparentswereright,
maybeweshouldhavetakenaflight.Mybrotherinlaw,Ifoundout,hadthrownupafewtimesagaininthenight,so
hewasstillinprettybadshape.Iwasfeelingmuchbetterwiththemorningandcrispsunshine,butonlymarginally.I
tookfirstdrivinghonoursandwesetofffromSarchu
Thewayaheadwasmuchthesameasithadbeentillnow,barrenmountainsanddustyroads.Thedifferencenowwas
thedensityoftrafficontheroaditwasalreadyverylessandgoteventhinner.Wewerealittleapprehensiveaswell,
becausewehadtocrossPang(15,500ft)andTaklangla(17,300ft).Withourmoralshatteringexperiencethenight
beforeatSarchu,goinghigherseemedlikeascarythingtodo.Also,theroadsandthesceneryandthegeneralfeelof
theplaceissobarrenanddead,itaddstowhatevermiserybeingunwellhasalreadypiledonyou
AnhourorsooutofSarchu,wecametothefamousGataLoops.Buttobehonest,theywerenotatallwhatIhad
expectedtherewasnothinggrandioseandmagnificentaboutthemasIhadpicturedinmymind,theyrejusta
regularstretchoftwistyroad!!Soonandonwewent,higherintobleaklandscape,andatthattimeIwasthinking
whatwouldhappentousifourcarbrokedownhere,withnooneformilesandmilesaroundus(wehadcomenear
theendoftheseasonandtouristdensitywasextremelylow),andtheprospectofanothercoldnightinthehigher
reachesofthesemountains,stuckinourcar,sentalittleshiveroffeardownmyback.Blockingallthesethoughts,I
droveon.Itwasaquitedrive,withnoonesayingmuch,thesunanddustmydrivingcompanionsforthemostpart
EventuallywereachedPang,wherewehadthukpaandmaggi.Wedidntstayfortoolongandwereonourwaysoon
enough.AfterawhilewereachedMorePlains.Wedidnotknowthatwehadreachedtheplains,buttheflatlandat
14,000ftheight,stretchingformilesarounduscouldbenothingbutMorePlains!Itisaspectacularplacenotbecause
onanyextraordinarilybeautifulscenerybutbecauseitmakesyouwonderthemanywaysofnature,oftherebeinga
hugeplainatsuchaheight.Itisreallyamazing!
Herethemainroadthatrunsthroughtheplainswasunderconstructionforthemostpartandwewereforcedtodrive
throughtheplains,tryingtofigureoutthecorrectpaththatweweretotake.Becausewewerenotdrivingontheroad,
ourjourneythroughtheplainswasaratherbouncyandshakyone.TheScorpiodoesbouncemorethaniscomfortable
andthuswewereforcedtodriveslowerthanothervehiclesthatweencounteredthere.Iwasespeciallysurprisedto
seealotofbicyclegroupsonthisrouterightuptilTaklanglaandbeyond.Itmusttakeasetofbrassheaviesandalot
ofdeterminationtoundertakeacyclingtripinsuchaplace!!
EventuallythejourneyworeonandaswedescendedfromthepassestowardsLeh,weallstartedfeelingmuchmuch
betterandbythetimewewereabout70kmsfromLeh,wewereallinhighspiritsagain,wewerebacktoour
chatteringselves,wehadthemusicbackon,thejokesweredoingtheroundsandgenerally,wewereahappybunch
again
SoonenoughwereachedKaru,thecantonmentareabeforeLehcity.Drivingthroughit,Iwasextremelysurprisedto
seedistancemarkersforBeijingandLhasa!!Neverexpectedthat.WefinallyreachedLehby5.15andweremetby
Stanzinwhoputusupinourhotel,LadakhContinental.Itisareallyniceplacewithproperroomsandrunninghot
water.WefeltSOgoodgettingintoourroomsafteramiserablenightatSarchu,itisbeyondexpression!Stanzinleft
ustowashupandrelaxandtoldusourcarwouldbetherethenextmorningwehadbookedanInnovaforourstayin
LehandforPangongandNubra,aswehadthoughtthatitwouldbeagoodrelaxingbreakfromdrivingbeforewe
againdrovetoTsoMoririandbacktoDelhi
Wewerereallywearyandtiredandstiff,sowehadourdinneratabout9andweretuckedinbedby10.30,happyto
besleepinginawarmbed
Day5(14/09)LehCity0kmswholeday
Nextmorningwewokeuparound8am,toaniceandbrightday.Wehadsleptwell,inaproperroom,withproper
walls(againsttentflaps)andaproperbed,withnowindcreepingintotheroom(ashappensinatent).Weordered
teaintheroomandwereinbetterspiritsthanadaybefore.Weshoweredandwentdowntobreakfastatabout9.30.
Thebreakfastwasbuffetstyleandwehadniceomelette,paranthas,toastandfruits
At10am,ourcar,whichwasactuallyStanzinscar/taxithatheusesforguests,arrivedwithourdriverJack,yup
thatsthename.OnethingthatIlaterlearnedandwaspleasantlysurprisedatwasthefactthatinLadakh,everytour
operator/travelagentcanonlykeeponetaxifortheirguests.Thisistoensurethatthelocaltaxioperatorsgetfair
businessandthatnoonewithfinancialmusclecangrindtheircompetitiontodust
Anyways,allfourofusbundledintotheInnovawithJackasourdrivercumlocalguide.WefirstwenttoThiksay
monastery,thentheHemismonasteryandthenfinallytotheSheypalace.Theseareallwonderfulplacesandifoneis
toreallycontemplateandthinkbackintime,thereissomuchhistoryattachedtothesemonuments
Wefinishedourcitytourbylunchtimeandthenwentbacktothehotel,washedupandwentwalkingtothemarket,
whichisrightnextdoor,forlunch.Therewereafewplaceswewantedtoexploreforfood,andsettledforTibetan
Kitchenforthatday.IhaveanotherfriendfromLeh,Sonam,whoIdidnotknowwasinLehatthattime,whowemet
inthemarketandwhoalsojoinedusforlunch
Afteraheartymealwewentbacktothehotelforsomerest.Ourroomswereonthe2ndfloor,andthoughwewereall
finenow,wewouldeventuallyloseourbreathbythetimeweclimbedtwofloors.Sowithafullbelly,theprospectofa
nicewarmbedwastoomuchtoresist,andweallhadourselvesaleisurelynap
Earlierintheday,StanzinhadtoldusthatintheeveninghewouldtakeustoaspotnexttotheIndusthatheandhis
friendssometimeswenttoforenjoyinganiceevening.HecameinhisInnovaatabout6.30pm,wepickedupsome
liquorfromthemarketandhedroveusabout34kmsandonreachingtheoutskirtsofthecity,heparkedhiscar
alongtheroad.Hethenproceededtotakeusfromtheroadtotheriver,forwhichwehadtocrossthisstretchof
thornyLehBerrybushes,whichseemtolinetheriverbankeverywhere.So,afterabout5minutesofwalkingthrough
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bushes,weemergedontothebankoftheIndus!There,thefourofus,Stanzin,Sonamandanotherofhisfriendswho
joinedusspentanicetwohourstalkingandgazingatthemountains.FromwherewewerewecouldseeStokKangri,
thehighestpeakinLadakh.Itisatabout19,000ftandtherearetreksthatgothere.Stanzintoldushowhehaddone
thistrekwithafewfriendsandbeingalocal,evenhefounditextremelytouchgoing.Thateveningwasspecial
becausewewereinclosevicinityoftheIndusandtheHimalayasatthesametime!Itisreallyaweinspiringtobe
amongstsuchlegends
Ialsofiguredoutwhypeopleinsuchplacesaresospiritual.Withapopulationdensityof3/sqkminLadakh,harsh
winters,lonelylivesandgenerallytoughliving,itiseasytobecomespiritualandabeliever.Ihadneverunderstood
why,butthatevening,aftertalkingtoStanzinandhisfriends,afterunderstandingthekindoflivesthelocalslead,
understandingthatisolationandsolitudeisallthereisafterallthetouristshavegoneandthelandisburiedinsnow,I
trulystartedrespectingthebeliefsandconvictionsofthesemountainfolks
Afterafunfilledeveningwitholdfriends,wecamebacktoourhotelandhadourbuffetstyledinner(thatsthenorm
everywhereinLeh)by9.30pm,wenttoourrooms,chattedforawhileandsaidourgoodnightsby10.30pm
Itsamazinghoweasyitistoadjusttoalifewherelastdinnerisservedat9.30andthedayisoverby10pmlatest,
fromalifewherethenightisstillyoungat11pmandtheday/nightisneverover.Simpleliving,simplepeople,one
amazingplace!
Day6(15/09)LehtoPangongLake150kms5hours
ThenextdayweplannedonleavingnottoosoontoPangongasweplannedonstayingovernightthere.Stanzin
arrangedforustoleaveourluggageinthehotel,sowewouldnothavetopackitandputintheScorpioforthedays
wewerenotstayinginthehotel.Weleftatabout10amwithcaptainJackatthehelmofourship(Innova).Aswe
nearedChangla(17,586ft)itstartedtorainabitandJacktoldusthatweshouldfindsnowsoon.Westoppedat
Changlaforreallyyummymaggiandtea.Itwasreallyreallycoldandreallyreallywindyandwhilewewerewaiting
forourchai,truetoJacksword,itstartedsnowing!!Ihadseensnowbefore,butitwasafterIthinknearly20years
thatIhadwitnessedasnowfall.Itwasevenmoreexcitingbecauseitwasthefirsttimeforallmyothercompanions!!
Itwasasurrealisticexperiencebeingontopoftheworldwithwhitemountainsallaroundus.Citylifeseemedlikea
distantandeasilyforgottendream.Weenjoyedthesnow,windandourlittlesnackandleftaftera45minutehalt.
Therewasabitofsnowontheroadandeventhoughhewasalocal,Jacktookitrealeasyandslowtillwewereoutof
thesnowline
Onceoutofthehighpassarea,wecontinuedourjourney.Iforgetthenameoftheplace,butaswenearedPangong
Tso,wecrossedanarmyestablishmentwithmilestonesthathadnamesofallthearmyregimentsthathadeverbeen
postedthere.Itwasprettycool.Therewasalsoasmall,nondescript,mentionofShaitanSingh,theIndianArmyhero
thatledthedefenseoftheplaceagainsttheChinesein1962
Aswemovedon,wecameacrosstheseplains/plateauarea.HereJackstoppedthecarandaskedustocomeoutwith
him.Wedidnotknowwhatthescenewastillwespottedthelocalwildlife,theHimalayanMarmut,abeaverlike
rodentfoundintheseandotherhighplacesthroughouttheHimalayanrange.Thesewerefunnylittleshycreaturesthat
disappeareddownthereburrowssoonasweapproachedthem.WesoonlearntthatfromnoneotherthancaptainJack,
thatifwesatstillenoughwithabiscuitoutsidetheburrows,themarmutseventuallycameouttotakethebiscuits.My
wifetriedthisthoughwewerewarnedthatthesecutelittlecreatureshavereallysharpteeth,soweshouldbecareful.
Inhindsight,Iwoulddiscouragefeedingtheseanimalsbecauseintheharshwilderness,itwouldnotdothemanygood
togetusedtofreelunchessotospeak
Nowcomesthebestpart.Itwasabout2.30pmbynowandwewerealmostatourdestination.Aswegotcloserthe
excitementatseeingPangongtsostartedtoreallybuildupinsideme.WillIseeitafterthenextturn,ortheone
after??Finally,afteraturnintheroad,Ilaideyesupononeofthemostbreathtakingsightsinmylifeandthat
includesthefirsttimeviewoftheTajMahal.Throughasmallopeningbetweenthemountains,amidstthebarren
brown,Icouldseeapatchofblue,thecolourofwhichIhadneverseenbefore.Iwasawestruckandcouldnotwaitto
getclosertothelake
Afteraboutanother15minutes,wereachedPangongtso,andwhatabeautyitis!!Itwasacrispsunnydayandthe
colourwasamagnificentlyrichanddeepshadeofbluewhichIfindhardtodescribe.Wegotoutandspentthenext
hourorsotakingpicturesandwalkingaroundthelake.Welearntthatdependinguponthetimeofthedayandthe
weatherconditions,thewatercanchangeuptosevencolours,whichisprettyimpressive.Thelakeis130kmslong
with70%inChina.Itisthehighestsaltwaterlake(yessaltwater)intheworldandtherehavebeenconspiracy
theoriesabouttheChinesedeployingsubmarinesinthelaketospyonIndiaandinfiltratespiesoftheirown
Afterconvincingourselvesthatwewerereallythereandthiswasnotadreamanddocumentingourpresencewell,we
headedtoourcamp,TheWatermark.Wecouldhavecomebackthesameday,butwehadinitiallydecidedthatwe
wouldnothaveahurriedtripandalsoitisadifferentexperiencealtogetherspendinganightataplacethanjust
makingadaytrip.Ifoneisshortontime,thenthiscanbemadeintoadaytripaswell,withprobablya7am
departure.Asthesunwassettingthelaketurnedfrombluetograytoblack.Itwaspartlycloudywithabrightmoon,
andthemoonwouldkeepslippinginandoutoftheclouds.Thewholefeelingwasverygothicandeerieinanexciting
sortofway,likethosevampire/werewolfmovies.Itgotextremelycoldbutwehadourlayerssowewerentreally
bothered.Thecampwaswellappointedgiventhecircumstancesandwehadaleisurelyevening,hadourdinner,
chattedupsomeandthenhadthelightsoutby10.30pm
Day7(16/09)PangongLeh150kms5hours
Nextdaywewokeuptoanovercastday.Wewerethankfulwehadcomethedaybefore,becausethisparticularday
wasnotgoodforphotographyandthemysticblueofthelakehadturnedintoagranitegrey.Ifwehadnotcomeaday
before,wewouldhavemissedthebrilliantcoloursofthelake
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WehadourbreakfastandleftforLeh,leavingbehindthemysticismandnaturalwonderofPangongtso.Westopped
enrouteatChangla.Therewassnow,butitwasnotsnowing.Afteranuneventfuljourney,wereachedLeharound
lunchtime.HalfourtripwasoverandIfeltmixedemotionssadthatwewouldsoonhavetogoback,happythatwe
hadmadeittoLadakh,contentwiththepaceswehadseenandexcitedabouttheplacesweyethadtoexplore.Inthe
evening,wemetatStanzinsofficeinthemarketandhadsomedrinksfollowedbydinner.Nextdaywewereoffto
Nubra!!
Incidentally,adayafterwecamebackfromPangongtso,wefoundoutthatheavysnowhadcoveredChanglaand
vehicularmovementhadbeensuspendedforadayatleast.Phew!!Thankgodwewentwhenwedid,elsewewould
havehadourschedulethrownintoatizzy.Itisuncannyhowluckholdsoutwhenyoumakebolddecisions(our
decisiontocometoLehaftera3weekdelay).Alloneneedsisbelief,goodpreparationandabunchofhappypeople
tohangoutwith
Day8(17/09)LehNubra150kms8hours(delayedduetoblockedroads)
WewokeupniceandbrightallsetforourexcursiontoNubraValley.CaptainJackarrivedpromptlyatthedesignated
hourandwesetoff.AnhourandahalfintoourtripwecametoSouthPullu
SouthPulluisanarmycheckpostontheLehsideofKhardungla.OntheNubrasideofKhardunglaandatadistance
ofabout4050kmsfromSouthPullu,isNorthPullu,wherethereisahugedepotofsortsandasmallbaseforarmy
vehiclesandthelegendaryBoforsguns.ThereareregulararmyconvoysthattravelfromNorthtoSouthPulluandvice
versaduringwhichtimetheroadisclosedtociviliantraffic
SoaswereachedSouthPulluatabout11isham,weencounteredalonglineofvehiclesallparkedonebehindanother.
WejoinedtomakethesnakealittlelongerandfoundoutthatthreeBoforsgunswerebeingtransportedfromNorthto
SouthPulluandwewouldhavetowait.Butnoonetoldusforhowlong.Withnothingtodo,welistenedtosomemusic
inthecar,walkedaroundabit,tooksomephotos,etcandgenerallygotabitboredwaitingfortheBoforstocome
down.Finally,afterabouttwohoursofwaiting,thegunswentbyandwewereonourwayagain.Butasluckwould
haveit,afteraboutanhourorsooftravelling,withallthecarswaitingformingconvoyofsortsoftheirown,we
encounteredanarmyconvoyofabout20oddtruckscomingfromtheotherdirection.Thisinvariablyledtoatraffic
situationthattookabouthalfanhourtosolveitself
Jacktoldusaninterestingfactinallarmyconvoys,thefirstandthelastvehicleshavelargeflagstiedtotheir
windows.Theflagonthefirstvehicleisanindicationthatitisaconvoyandnotastrayvehiclecomingandtheflagon
thelastvehicleindicatestheendoftheconvoy.Itmaynotseemlikemuch,butontwisty,narrowroads,such
informationisusefulandhelpsavoidbottleneck/jamsituations
Andinduetime,at18,380feetabovesealevel,wereachedKhardunglaandthehighestmotorableroadintheworld!!
SomearguethatthehighestmotorableroadintheworldisinChile,butWHOCARES,solongastheBROsignthatI
stoodunderconfirmsthatyouarenowindeedatthehighestdriveablepointONTHEGLOBE!!Itisoneofthose
momentswhereyoufeelreallyelatedandecstatic
ThereistheyummiestgingerteatobehadattheonlycanteenatKhardungla,withsteamedmomosandmaggi
Iwassurprisedatthenumberofpeopleatthepass!Andmoresurprisedatthenumberofoldpeoplethere.Andeven
moresurprisedatthepeoplewhohadbicycledtheirwayuptoKhardungla.Iwasreallyimpressedandinspiredbya
50+foreigncouplewhohadbicycledtoKhardungla!!Infact,allalongthetripwesawnumerouspeople,mostly
foreignersoncycles,inplaceslike,Taklangla,Changla,Khardungla.Withoutvisitingtheplace,itisdifficultto
comprehendthehardshiponewouldhavetoendurecyclingacrossLadakh.Hatsoffman,tothesepeople!!Theysure
gotapairofbrassknockersandthephysicalendurancetobacktheircourage
Theoldpeople(about60ish)ImentionedwereIthinkaBengaliorGujaratigroupthathadcomethereandtheywere
extremelyinappropriatelydressed.Therewasaladywearingasari,socksandchappalsonKhardungla!!Andshewas
extremelyunwellduetothealtitude.Ifeltreallysorryforherandwasleftwonderingwhypeoplehavetorisktheir
livesinsucholdageandeveniftheyhavetocanttheypreparealittlebetterbywayofclothing,etc.Butonthe
flipside,frompersonalexperience,itisreallydifficulttoenvisagethesituationsandproblemsonecanfaceinaplace
ascharminglyanddeceptivelyhostileasLadakh
Anyhow,sowemovedaheadyetonceagainandwithoutanyfurtherincidences,wereachedtheNubraValley.Itis
surprisinghowthelandscapeisinLadakhregion.FromthefirstsurpriseattheMorePlainsatsuchanaltitude,Iwas
alsosurprisedbythepebblestrewnplainoftheNubraValley.Welaterlearntthatthereusedtobeaforestinthat
areaandagreatdelugeoncewashedawayallvegetationwhichnevergrewback
HerewealsohadourfirstviewoftheBactrianCamels,theeventoedanddoublehumpedcamelsnativetotheregion,
whicharealsoendangered.TheNubraValleyusedtobeacrucialtransitandtradingpointontheoldSilkRoute,with
Chinese,MongolianandAfghantraderspassingthroughthisregiontoenterIndia.TheBactrianCamelsarenativeto
theMongolia,Chinaregionandovertime,duringthetradingdays,somegotleftbehindorsomepeoplesettledhere
andthatishowtheycametobeintheNubraValley
Wemovedinandcheckedintoourcampsforthenight.ThesewerecalledtheOrganicRetreatandlikeafewother
placesinNubraValley,theygrowalltheirproduceorganically,withthetentssetamidstthiscultivation.Itisan
extremelybeautifulplacewithmountainsaroundyouandappletreesborderingyourcampingareaandalittlestream
flowingthroughthecamp.Lovely,isthewordmyfriends!!
Laterintheevening,thecaretakerpreparedabonfireforusalongwithsomehotsnacksthatweenjoyedpriorto
dinner.Wefoundoutthatweweretheonlypeoplethereandtwodayshencethecampwasbeingshutforthewinters.
InalltheseplacesaroundLeh,IfoundoutthatduringthesummerstheworkersareemployedinLadakhandinthe
winterstheygoworkineitherKeralaorGoa.MostarefromUPandBihar,thusbeingemployedthroughouttheyear
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Bythistimeintoourtrip,wehadbecomegoodboysandgirlsandwereusedtosleepingby10.30andwakingupby
6.30.Besides,soonasitgotdark,itwasasiftheworldhadshutdownforthedayanditseemedwisetodothesame
Day9(18/09)NubraLeh150kms6hours
Nextdaywewokeupanddidsomecamelriding,whichismuchmoreuncomfortablethanitseems.Intheplains
wherethecamelsstay,themountainsalongtheroadaresosmoothandsosheer,thatonefeelssosmall,likea
speck.ItisanotheroneofthosehumblingexperiencesthatIhadwhileexecutingMissionLeh
WethenwenttotheDiskitmonasterythathasthelargeststatueoftheBuddhainLadakhat30feet.Onourwayback
westoppedatNorthPulluforlunchatashop(theonlyshop)rightbeforethearmyarea.Aswewerefinishingwe
couldhearallthetrucksstartingupandtheladyattheshoptoldustoleavequicklyasaconvoywaspreparingto
leaveandifitleftbeforeus,wewouldbestuckforacoupleofhours.SoweQUICKLYleftNorthPulluforLeh.After
about1015minutesasweclimedtoKhardungla,wecouldseeaHUGEconvoypreparetoleaveNorthPullybelowus.
Phewagain!!
Day10(19/09)LehCity
ThiswasthedaythatwehadkeptforgoingtoLlamayuru,whereyouhavethemoonwalkandthemagnetichill.
However,noneofuswasinthemoodandwespentthedayinLehdoingbasicallynothing.Justrelaxingandeatingand
walkingthemarket
NextdaywasourlongdrivetoTsoMoririanditbeingourlastdayinLeh,StanzinagaintookustotheIndusforour
lasteveninginLeh.Itwasanotheramazingevening,butbythetimeitwas9pm,therewassomuchwindand
lighteningthatwedecidedtoleavequickly.Wecamebacktothehotel,saidourgoodbyestoStanzinandSonam,
packedourluggageandslept
Note:NextdayweweretoleaveforTsoMoririandfromtheretoTandi,atotaldistanceofabout500kmswithnofuel
pump,sowefilledour40litrescanwithdiesel.Iadvicealltocarefullycalculatetheirdistancesandcarryappropriate
fuelquantities.Further,makesurethatyouputapolybaglayerandanewspaperlayerandthenclosethelidonany
can,becauseallthemovementonbadroadsleadstosomeleakageandalotofstink
Day11(20/09)LehTsoMoriri~250kms12hours
ThedrivingfromLehtoSumdowasverylonelywithhardlyanyvehicles,beingthefagendoftheseason.We
however,foundabitofgreeneryalongtheriverwhenwegetoffthemainroadandgotoSumdo,asmallvillage
wheretheroadforks,onegoingtowardsMorePlainsandtheothertowardsKurzokandTsoMoririandChumurnearthe
Chineseborder
AtSumdo,wetookthewrongroadbutdidnotgofarandmetalocalelderlygentlemanwhoguidedustoKurzok.
Surprisingly,hespokeexcellentEnglish!!Asweturnedaround,wesawaconvoyoffreighttruckscomingfromMore
Plains.TheystoppedusandaskedusthedirectiontoLeh
SoonwewenttoKurzok.TheroadfromSumdotoKurzokisreallyweirdandamazing,primarilybecausethereisno
road!!Onehastofollowtracksormaketheirownwayacrossgrassyplains.Again,comingacrossplainsatsuch
altitudewasamazing.ThelandscapewaslikeoneofthosescenesoutofLordoftheRingshugeopenexpanseswith
mountainsallaround
TherewasalocalQualisaheadofussowefollowedhimforthemostpartthinkinghewouldknowtheway.Ifnotfor
him,wewouldhavebeennotsureifweshouldgoahead,becausedrivingwithoutaroadonamountainplainjustdid
notseemlikeitwouldgetusanywhere.Andtherewasnoonewecouldask.Soonandonwewenttillwereached
Kurzok,whichisrightattheedgeofthelake.FromthereonecangotothelakeortoChushurandtheChineseborder.
TheQualistookaleftandsowefollowedhim.Heretheroadishigherthanthelakeandunpaved.Wefollowedthe
Qualisforabout30kmswithnoapparentwaytogettothelake.Therewasconstructionworkgoingonattheroad
throughoutthese30kmsanditwasreallydusty.Eventually,wefiguredwewereonthewrongsideofthelakeaswe
couldseecampsontheotherside.TheQualisstoppedandweaskedtheguyhowdowegettothelake.Hesaidhe
didntknow!!!Hehadcometheretopicksomeoneup.Sowehadbeengoingthewrongwayandanother4050kms
andwewouldhavereachedChushurandtheChineseborder!!Thatwouldhavebeensomething
Soweturnedaroundandafterwastinganhour,wetooktherightturnfromKurzokandreachedthecampsandthe
lake.Ithadtakenustill6pmtogetthere.Again,weweretheonlyonesatthecamp.TsoMoririlakeissupposedtobe
the7thmostbeautifullakeintheworldaccordingtosomesurveyandPangongTsodoesntevenmakethelist.Iwas
personallyabitdisappointed.IfoundPangongmuchbetter.Also,Ithinkaftera12hrdrivewefeltthatitwasnot
worthit,giventhatwewereleavingthenextmorning.ItwasgettingdarkwhenwegotthereandTsoMoririat15,000
feetgotreallycold.Thecampguytoldusthatthetemperaturedropsbelowfreezinginthenights.Withnothingtodo,
weaskedhimforglasses.Heaskedusifweweregoingtodrink,wesaidyes,hesaidnotadvisable,wesaidweare
alreadyacclimatised,sooutcamethebottleofrum.Afteracoupleofdrinks,wehadsoupanddinnerandwenttothe
tentstodwellonourlasteveninginLadakh.TherewasadogtherethattheguytoldushadcomefromLadakhwitha
groupthathadtrekkeddownbutdecidedtostaytherethen.Randomdog!!
Weweresadthatwewouldbeonourwaybackthenextday,butreallyhappythatwedidthistrip,despiteits
hardshipsandlackofcreaturecomforts.Afterspendinganhourorsotalking,weslept
Day12(21/09)TsoMoririTandi~250kms12hours
Thenighthadbeenuncomfortablebecauseastraydogandalocalwild***keptbarkingandbrayingtheentirenight.
Wewokeuptoareallycoldmorning.Thewaterhadfrozeninthenightandwehadabiggerproblemstartingthe
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ScorpioherethanwedidinSarchu.Wewerereadytopushittostartafterabout15minutesoftryingwhentheengine
finallycametolife.TsoMoririwasaweirdsortofplace,wesawinthemorning.Behindourcamp,wasasmallvillage
wheretheroadandallcivilizationendedandbeyonditwasjustthebarrenwilderness.Itwaslikespendingthenight
attheendoftheworld!!Surreal
Note:Inhindsight,wecouldhaveskippedTsoMoririandIwouldprobablynotgothereifIgoagain,butdontletme
deterallofyou.Also,inhindsightweshouldhaveskippedTsoMoririandcomedownviaKargil,Srinagarroute.Iguess
nexttimeIwilldothatandyesthereWILLbeanexttime,wheneveritis.YoucannotnotgotoLadakhagain.Itsjust
plainabsurd!!
So,weleftTsoMoririandfromSumdotookalefttowardsMorePlains.Onourwaywepassedwhatwefirstthought
weresnowcoveredmountainsbutturnedouttobecalciumandphosphoruslayeringduetohotsprings.Thiswasnear
Tsokarlake,ifIamnotmistaken
ItwasalongishandabsolutelylonelydrivetillwereachedMorePlains,wherethankfully,theroadhadbeenlaidby
now.Onourwayback,whiletraversingtheGataLoops,wesawthesesmalloffroadingtrailsandwetookthese
straightdowninsteadoftakingtheroad.Wecrossedtheloopsinrecordtimeduetotheseshortcuts.Onewordof
advice,ifyoudonthavea4x4,thenpleasedonottrygoingUPtheloopsviatheseshortcuts,becausetheyare
extremelysteepandifyourcarstartsslidingback,youwillhaveSERIOUSproblems
Asisusualonthereturnlegofanytrip,weweretiredandexcitementlevelswereontheebb.Wefinallyreached
Tandiatabout6pm,tiredasadog,lookingtocrashatDrilbuRetreat.Toourannoyance,whenwereachedthere,we
sawahugenumberofpeople,amoviecrewandgenerallylotsofmayhem.Weweretoldthatourcottageshadbeen
giventothesefolksandbecausewedidnothavephones,therewasnowayofreachingus.Weweretoldthatwewere
bookedintheDeykidHotelinKeylong.Iwasextremelyangrybutsawnopointinarguing.WeleftforKeylong,
reachedthehotelandwereactuallyhappytobeinahotelinsteadofacottage.Cottagesarefinewhenforonwards
journeys,whatwithalltheexcitementandall.Onthewayback,awarmbedandaproperbathroomseemedmuch
moreinvitingthanacottage.So,allinall,wewereactuallybetteroff
Thiswastheonlyconfusionthathappenedinthetrip,aconfusionthatledustobetteraccommodations.Onthewhole,
StanzinmadeEXCELLENTarrangementsandalltheplaceswerereallynice
AtDeykid,wehadsomeChinesefoodandwenttoourroomsby10pm
Day13(22/09)TandiManali125kms5hours
WeleftforManaliby10am.Wehadsleptwellandwerefeelingfresh.WestoppedatKoksartogetourpermitsigned
todepositatMarhi
Note:DogetyourpermitssignedatKoksar,thoughatMarhi,nooneaskedusforit
OnreachingRohtang,weweresurprisedatthenumberofpeoplethere.Theslushhaddriedupanditwasasifthe
wholeworldhadcometoRohtang!Therewerequadbikerides,mulerides,lotsoffoodvends,hawkers,andbasically
thefullymontyasfarasitcouldhavebeen
Westoppedtohavelovelymaggiandchai.Aninterestingincidentthattookplacewasthatwhilewewereeating
maggi,ahawkercametomywifeandtoldhimthathehadthemuskpouchfromthemuskdeerandwouldsellitfor
Rs100.Itoldmywifethatfirst,itisillegal,seconditisnotrealbecauseifitwere,itwouldhavenotbeenfora100
quidandlast,themanwasafraud.Butmywifeandhersisterinlawcouldnotbedeterredandboughtthatjunkfrom
him.Theguyhadatrickthatheusedformakingsales.Hewouldholdthemuskpouchinhishand,closehisfistand
rubhishandagainstmywifesandaskhertosmellherhand.Andvoila,thehandwouldsmellmuskythusendorsing
themansclaimthatthemuckpouchwasreal!!WhenmywifetriedthislateratManali,nothinghappened Thenwe
realizedthatthemanhadalreadyputsomemuskperfumeonhishandsowhenherubbeditagainstanyoneelses
hand,ofcourseitwouldsmellnice!!Whatabloodyripoff!!Folks,pleaseDONOTfallforsuchtricks!!
WhenwecrossedMarhi,therewasparaglidinghappening.Rohtanglookednothinglikewhatwehadleftitlikeonour
wayup,whentherewerejustthe4ofus!!
WefinallyreachedManaliwherewehadbookedourselvesintoHimachalTourimsHidambaCottages.Thesearenice
cottages/roomsnearHidambaTemple.Theyhavenoroomservice,butthatwasOKwithus.Intheafternoonwehad
Italianfoodatajointrightoutsideourhotel,runbyanItlaiancouple.Theyservedreallynicefood!!Inthenightwe
wantedtogotoJohnsonsCafe,ofwhichwehadheardsomuch.Itwasourlastnightofthistrip,sowehadareal
blastatJohnsonsCafe.Itisanamazingplacetoeatandmustgoifonehastime.Itisontheroadfromthemarketto
HidambaTemple.Theyservereallynicefish,thougheverythingelseisalsoA1.Andtheyalsohaveawellappointed
bar
Day14(23/09)ManaliDelhi~550kms12hours
WeleftearlyforDelhi.WehadthoughtthatwewouldstopatChandigarhifwegottired.TheroadfromManalito
Chandigarhisextremelybusywithtrucktraffic.Andnowthattherainshadstopped,therewasalotoftouristtrafficas
well.BythetimewerehalfwaytoChandigarh,itbecamereallyhotwehadallbutforgottenwhatfeelinghotisinthe
last2weeks WereachedChandigarhbylateafternoonandthoughtwewouldpushaheadtoDelhi.WereachedDelhi
atabout8.30ish
Wehadjustfinishedadream2weeks.BeinginDelhimadeallthethingswedidinLadakhandtheplaceswewentto
seemlikeadreamitwaslikewehadjustcomeoutofareallyengrossingmovie.Butno,itwasnomovie,wehad
finallyaccomplishedMissionLeh!!
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EndingNotes
Nownownow!WhatitisthatIcanwritethatIhavealreadynotwritteninthetravelogue?AllIwouldliketosayis
thatpleaseDOgotoLadakh,itisaWonderlandandyoucanbeAlice.Youwouldseeplacesthelikesofwhichexist
nowhereelseontheplanet.YouwouldexperiencethewarmhospitalityoftheLadakhipeopleandyouwouldhavean
experiencethatyouWOULDneverforget
Drivingistherealwaytogo,butifyouwanttofly,thendothat,itwouldstillbealotoffun.Drivingisabit
dangerous,butsoiscrossingtheroad.Bewellprepared,researchwell,planahead,bookahead(ifwithfamiliesandif
lookingforsomecomfort)andkeepacoupleofdayssparejustincaseandyoushouldbefine
DOs
Takealotofwater.Buyfromwholesale.Planonatleast5litresperperson/perday
Takeextracanforfuel,tyrerepairkit,airpump,towline(weonlyusedthecanbutinanemergencythesethings
wouldbeagodsend)
Takeappropriateclothingsuchasgloves,warmcaps,warmscarves,inners,warmsocksandsturdyshoes.Please
dressforcomfortandnotfashion.Ifpossibleandthereisspacetakesleepingbags,justincaseyougetstuckinthe
wilderness
Takeatorchandbatteries
Extramemorycardforcamera(Ihavea32GBcard,sodidnotneedanyextraone.Itook1200photos)
Carrysomefoodthatwontgobadsuchascheese,energybars,chocolates,juices,biscuits,etc.Theymayjust
saveyourlifeifthingsgobadandyouarestuck
MaystarthavingDiamoxafewdaysbeforeleaving.Checkdosagefromyourdoctor
DONT
DrinkandDrive.Noexplanationneeded
Dontbemorethan4peopletoacar.Longjourneyscanbeuncomfortablewithmorepeople
Tryavoidingalcoholathighaltitudes.IknowitsavacationsoIwontsaydontdrink.Soifyouhavetodrink,drink
slowly,limitconsumptionandhavelotsofwater
Pleasedontdriverashlyandfast.Nomatterwhatyoudo,averagespeedinLadakhwouldbebetween2530kmph
Trynottorushthetrip.Spendtimeandenjoytheplace
DONOToverpack.Wedidandwereruingit.YouwouldnotbechangingclothesinSarch,PangongandTsoMoriri
becauseitisJUSTTOOCOLDandyoucanhaveclotheswashedatthehotelinLeh.For2weeks,take23lowers,67
tops,2heavysweaters,1sweatshirtandaheavyJacket
Sothatsitfolks.IwouldhighlyrecommendgettingarrangementsmadethroughStanzinNorboo.Ifanyoneis
interestedIcanconnectyoutohim
IhopetheloghasnotbeenboringandhasservedthepurposewithwhichIwroteit,ofmotivatingandeducating
peopleaboutaroadtriptoLeh.GoandDOMAKETHIStrip,elseregretanddownthelinewonder,whatif...
Yourstruly...signingoff
PS:Iwanttouploadmorephotos.HowcanIdoitbeyondthe30photoperpostlimit
SlushonwaytoRohtang
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ViewfromRohtang(itisemptywithnotasoulthere)
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CottagesatDrilburetreat
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ViewfromDrilbuRetreat
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Reallycoldinaftersunset(Drilbu)
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Lastmanonearth(OnwaytoSarchu)
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ViewfromourhotelinLeh
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ThiksayMonastary
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ViewfromThiksay
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WifeandBrotherinlawswifewalkinguptoLehPalace
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SnowandwindatChangla
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FirstviewofPangong!
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Pangong
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Cottagesintheclouds(Pangong)
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Moresnowonwayback(Changla)
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Whennaturecalls(Changla)
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Trafficjam(onwaytoKhardungla)
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Topoftheworld!
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OrganicRetreat(Nubra)
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Nature'smight(Nubra)
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[X]
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ViewfromDiskit
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Noroads(onwaytoTsoMoririfromSumdo)
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TsoMoriri
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NotefromMod:TeamBHPmaintainsastrongstandagainstdrinking&driving,underagedriving,street
racingandanyotherformofdangerousdriving.Poststhatdon'tabidebythisview,orcontainingANYalcohol
content(intextorpictures,directlyorindirectly),willnotbeentertainedontheforum.
LasteditedbyTechnocrat:15thJune2012at05:28.Reason:RemovedPicwithAlcoholBottle,PleaseNotethatwehavestrictstandagainst
displayormentionofAlcoholonBoard,pleasereadboardrulescarefullybeforeproceeding.Thanks
(11)Thanks
14thJune2012,17:35
sameerg001
SeniorBHPian
#2
Re:MissionLeh!Fourpeople,onescorpioandonehelluvaroadtrip!(DelhiLehSep2
Thanksalotforsharingthis,I'vereadeachandeveryLehlogonthisforumandeverytimeiread
one,IfallmoreforLeh.Reallymydreamdestination.
Iwillsurelydoladakhbycaraftersomeyearsdowntheline
JoinDate:Feb2012
Location:Dwarka,Delhi
Posts:1,505
Thanked:411Times
BTWnicelywrittenandpresentedwell.Greatwayofwriting.Ireallydidn'tmovedmyeyesfromthe
screentillicompletedthereading.
Dopostmorepics,speciallyofthesteed(yourscorpio)thatyoutookalongforthistrip.
Cheers
Sameer
LasteditedbyGTO:16thJune2012at09:34.Reason:Asrequested
15thJune2012,13:55
mayankjha1806
SeniorBHPian
JoinDate:Jan2011
#3
Absolutelywonderfulpictures,youwentthroughtheharshnessoftheterraintorealizeitainteasy
doingaLeh/Ladakhtrip.Westillrecallamazingbeautyandharshnessofthenatureatthesame
timewhenwewenttherelastyear.
Somedayhopefullywewilldrivethere,Ifyouhavemoresuchamazingpicturesdouploadthem.Get
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thepostwithpicturesmissingdeletedanduploadagain.
Location:Bangalore
Posts:2,121
Thanked:794Times
ViewMyGarage
15thJune2012,14:43
#4
GTO
TeamBHPSupport
ModNote:Ifyouhaveaquestionabouttheforum&features,refertotheFAQ.
Alternatively,youcanusetheContactUsform.ApublicthreadisNOTtheplaceforthose
questions.
JoinDate:Feb2004
Location:Bombay
Posts:37,975
Thanked:34,153Times
ViewMyGarage
15thJune2012,
15:11
#5
speed
crusader
Iamagainuploadingphotosinlotssoastominimisetimebetweentheuploadandthepost.Herecomesthefirstone!
Newbie
BetweenBilaspurandManali
JoinDate:Jul
2011
Location:
Gurgaon
Posts:24
Thanked:15
Times
AtMarhi
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AfterConqueringRohtang!
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(1)Thanks
15thJune2012,15:41
New.Novice
BHPian
JoinDate:Jul2010
Location:Gurgaon
Posts:152
Thanked:55Times
#6
Amazing..andIhavenoclueifitwasthePreloguewhichwasbetterorthenarrationofyourreal
trip.Whiletheformerwasdottedwithsuchbeutifuldisplayof"human"emotionsandknottingof
realities..thelatterwasnothingbutathrillerwhichwouldjustnotletyoumoveaway.Believeitor
not..Ireaditallinonego.
AwesomepostSpeedyboy
PSGonnarateit5star,alcoholornoalochol
LasteditedbyNew.Novice:15thJune2012at15:42.
15thJune2012,15:46
speedcrusader
Newbie
JoinDate:Jul2011
Location:Gurgaon
Posts:24
Thanked:15Times
#7
Quote:
OriginallyPostedbyNew.Novice
Amazing..andIhavenoclueifitwasthePreloguewhichwasbetterorthenarrationofyour
realtrip.Whiletheformerwasdottedwithsuchbeutifuldisplayof"human"emotionsand
knottingofrealities..thelatterwasnothingbutathrillerwhichwouldjustnotletyoumove
away.Believeitornot..Ireaditallinonego.
AwesomepostSpeedyboy
PSGonnarateit5star,alcoholornoalochol
Thanksforyourvote!Itwouldbeprudenttosticktoguidelineslaiddown,sounintentionalslipups
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likeminecanbeavoided
Regards
SC
15thJune2012,17:52
#8
pushkark
BANNED
JoinDate:Feb2012
Location:Mumbai
Posts:69
Thanked:27Times
HowmuchtimedidittaketogetpermitstocrossRohtang??Alsoarethereanyagentswhocan
arrangeitforus?
15thJune2012,18:07
#9
lsp
BHPian
ThatwasagrippingreadCrusader.Isomehowfeelthephotosinlinewiththetextwouldhave
increasedthereadingpleasurealot.
Lookingforwardtomoreofthe1200+picsutook.
JoinDate:Aug2009
Location:NewDelhi
Posts:370
Thanked:172Times
18thJune2012,10:34
#10
speedcrusader
Newbie
Quote:
OriginallyPostedbylsp
ThatwasagrippingreadCrusader.Isomehowfeelthephotosinlinewiththetextwould
haveincreasedthereadingpleasurealot.
Lookingforwardtomoreofthe1200+picsutook.
JoinDate:Jul2011
Location:Gurgaon
Posts:24
Thanked:15Times
Thanks!Iagree!Itriedthatinitiallybuthadforgottenthe30photoperpostruleandendedup
wastingalotoftime!SOfinallyjustpostedthemattheend.Willpostmorephotossoon
Regards
SC
Quote:
OriginallyPostedbypushkark
HowmuchtimedidittaketogetpermitstocrossRohtang??Alsoarethereanyagentswho
canarrangeitforus?
YouhavetogetthesefromtheMagistrate'soffice.WEgotitdonethroughsomefamilyfriends.Itis
apparentlyaneasyexercisebutitisbetterifdoneinadvance.Ifyouarehavingsomeoneorganise
stayetcthenaskthem.ElseyoucancalltheMagistrate'sofficetofindouttheexactprocedurenos
areavailableonline
Regards
LasteditedbyTechnocrat:11thJuly2012at21:19.Reason:PleaseusetheEDITorMULTIQUOTEbuttonsinsteadof
typingonepostafteranotheronthesamethread.Thanks.
18thJune2012,
15:43
speed
#11
Quote:
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crusader
Newbie
OriginallyPostedbypushkark
Thepicturesarenotvisible.Pleasecheckandreload.
Uploadinginsmallerlots
Sunset(Drilbu)
JoinDate:Jul
2011
Location:
Gurgaon
Posts:24
Thanked:15
Times
Landslide(OnwaytoSarchu)
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10thJuly2012,15:57
rkbharat
SeniorBHPian
#12
nicepicsanddetails,youshouldhavegiveashottoLadakhwithSX4,itdoesverywellwithfew
hiccups
JoinDate:Sep2006
Location:Gurgaon/NewDelhi
Posts:1,570
Thanked:512Times
ViewMyGarage
11thJuly2012,00:53
noidea
BHPian
#13
Congratulations,firstlyforcompletingthetripandsecondlyforsuchanicewriteupand
photographs.
ThisisthefirsttimeIhavereadaboutplanninginsuchdetails.yourperspectiveonwhotogowith
andwhattotakeisinterestingandquiteappropriate.
JoinDate:Apr2010
Location:kolkata
Posts:121
Thanked:55Times
ButitisyourDO'sandDONT'sthattakesthecake.
Cheersandcongratulationsagain.
11thJuly2012,04:12
#14
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OffRoadie
BHPian
JoinDate:Jul2008
Location:Mumbai
Posts:279
Thanked:112Times
Lovelywriteupandcongrats.
Adrivingtipforslush.Onceyougetgoingin1stswitchto2nd.2wdvehiclesneedthewheelspinto
moveaheadduetolackoftraction.Switchingto2ndgearreducesthestrainonyourclutchand
engineandgivesyoutheneededtyrespeed/spintoploughthrough.
Thatsaidifyouspintoomuchtooearly,youwillgetboggeddown.SolikeIsaid,getgoingin1st
andshiftto2ndonceyou'removing.Ohandshiftfasttoolongtochangeandyou'llbeboggeddown
again.
(1)Thanks
11thJuly2012,11:08
#15
TaureanBull
SeniorBHPian
Averydetailedtraveloguewithbeautifulpics.Iamsuretherearemanymoreinthepipeline
IamnotsurewhyyousaidthatyouactuallyrealisedyouwereMADtosuggestLehashoneymoon.
Infactafterthetripitshouldhavebeenotherwayround.NooffencetoGod'sOwnCountry.
JoinDate:Jun2010
Location:Delhi/Pathankot
Posts:1,027
Thanked:181Times
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