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Hollow
Shallow
OPEN RAW EDGE:1. Open raw edge is used when the upper sections are to be left
with raw edge, especially on heavy leathers with/without any
short of edge treatment such as gimping/punching/binding to
give a smooth and uniform finish/look along the edge of the
component and to remove loose fibers from the edge
2. The depth of the skive is normally 1/3rd of the material thickness
and width of skive must not be more than edge stitching
distance, i.e., 1.5-2.00 mm.
CLOSE RAW EDGE: Used in case of closed seams in order to give smooth and uniform finish by removing excess bulkiness from
the edges.
Angle of the skive is 35*degree.
Width of the skive is 2-3mm and depth is 2/3rd of the material thickness.
Width and depth of the skive could vary depending upon the material thickness and strength.
On thin and soft materials, there is no need to go for closed edge skive.
Care must be taken not to affect the strength of the material.
FOLDING SKIVING:It is necessary to remove the bulk so that the leather returns to its original
thickness after folding over. Folding skiving is of two types:1. HOLLOW FOLD SKIVE: Is done in case of heavy leathers.
Depth of skive is half of the material thickness.
Width is usually twice the folding margin plus 1mm roll over
allowance.
UNDERLAY SKIVE: It is done on the bottom component where two components (top and bottom) are to be stitched together by
overlapping.
It is done to avoid any bumps on the upper, which could cause problems in stitching as well as print-through
after lasting.
Normally, underlay skive is done on the flesh side, but in case of unlined footwear/blind seam, it can be done
on the grain side of the component, to give a better appearance inside the footwear.
Skiving depth must taper down gradually to the finest possible edge to prevent a print-through after lasting.
Skiving width must be 2-3 mm behind the stitch marking line/underlay margin, so that at least the first row of
stitching comes on full thickness of both the material, to give enough strength and durability to the seam.
Hence, it is necessary to do stitch marking before underlay skiving.