Tea Party Dress

TP
1508
SIZES
0-8
6 mo
TEA PARTY
DRESS
Fabrics used for sample: Cotton + Steel Zephyr 1925-001.
LEVEL
INTERMEDIATE PATTERN
4 DIFFERENT BODICE OPTIONS
4 DIFFERENT BACK OPTIONS
2 OPTIONAL CAP SLEEVE VARIATIONS
CHOOSE FROM HIGH OR LOW ARM OPENING
CHOOSE FROM STRAIGHT OR CIRCLE SKIRT
PERFECT FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS - BIRTHDAYS,
WEDDINGS, FLOWER GIRL AND SO MUCH MORE!
OVER 80 CLEAR COLOUR DIAGRAMS TO HELP YOU
CONSTRUCT THE PATTERN
Click to go to Contents page
Table of Contents
About the design
Mix It Up!
Size Guide & Materials Required
Mix & Match
Printing Guide
Cutting Guide
Prepare the Outer Bodice
OPTIONAL: Sew the Sleeves
10
Prepare the Bodice Lining
12
Construct the Bodice
13
Prepare the Skirt
15
Attach the Skirt
16
Sew the Side Seams
18
Finish the Bodice
19
Attach the Buttons or Snaps
20
Final Touches
21
OPTIONAL: Add a Waist Sash
22
Glossary
24
Photo Gallery
25
Pattern Pieces
26-58
If you have any questions/comments about this pattern or need any help at all, please do not
hesitate to contact us via email any time at help@tadahpatterns.com.au.
Tadah Patterns by Lauren Harris
No part of this pattern may be reproduced in any form, by electronic or mechanical means,
without the permission of Tadah Patterns. The pattern contained within this document is
copyright protected. Each person who wishes to use this pattern must purchase their own copy.
The pattern is authorised for use by home sewers and business owners producing small quantities for resale. If you do use this pattern to produce items for sale I would appreciate if you
could give credit for the pattern, e.g. by writing Pattern design by Tadah Patterns. Thank you!
Tea Party Dress - Page 2
Tea Party Dress
This Tea Party Dress will quickly become you go-to

party dress. With so many options to finish each
aspect of the dress, you will never get tired of
sewing this quick yet gratifying pattern.
Choose different finished each time to create a

party dress that is uniquely yours and one-of-a-kind.
The neckline can be created with a modest
boat neck, casual scoop front, classic V neck
or sweet princess style sweetheart look.
The back of the dress can also be tailored to
your taste or mood. You can choose from a
simple classic back, more modern racer back,
show stopping scoop back or beautiful cut-out
back.
Another way to customise your dress is to choose
how you would like the arms to look - high or low and the style of sleeve you would like (if any at all!)
The gathered cap sleeve adds a sweet touch and
the mini cap is a very quick way to add a different
look (and some extra sun protection).
SEE Page 5 for the full list of

options with line drawings
When it comes to the skirt you can choose from the huge twirl factor that comes with a full circle skirt or
the more casual look of the straight skirt.
This pattern is suitable for intermediate sewers and comes in sizes 0 (6-12months) up to size 8. It is suitable for light to medium weight woven fabrics.
Mix it Up!
Add even more style and individuality to your Tea Party Dress with these ideas:
Play around with ruffles, trims & lace on the hem and bodice
Experiment with different lengths - tunic length, tea length or a maxi dress
Use a zip to close the back of the dress
Add pleats to the front of your bodice
Change the shape of the cutout on the back of the bodice
Add some sweet little flutter sleeves (like those on the All Seasons Dress pattern
Try using pleats of different sizes and directions to attach the skirt to the bodice
Play with different textures or adding a lace overlay.
The possibilities are endless and you are only limited by your imagination! Dont forget to
share your wonderful creations in our facebook support group (Fresh Pattern Party)
www.facebook.com/groups/FreshPatternParty
Size Guide & Materials Required
Required Items:
Fabric as shown below
1-4 sets of snaps OR 1-4 medium size buttons (depending on style chosen for back - see next page)
OPTIONAL: Medium weight interfacing for the button/snap area.
Coordinating thread, scissors and general sewing supplies
Size
Childs Height
Childs Chest
Childs Waist
6-12mo
31.5
80cm
20
50cm
18.5
47cm
33.8
86cm
20.5
52cm
19.25
49cm
36.25
92cm
21.25
54cm
20
51cm
38.5
98cm
21.5
55cm
20.5
52cm
41
104cm
22.5
57cm
21.25
54cm
43.25
110cm
23.25
59cm
22
56cm
45.5
116cm
24
61cm
22.75
58cm
48
122cm
24.75
63cm
23.5
60cm
50.25
128cm
26
66cm
24
61cm
BODICE
Finished Size
20.1 20.85 21.65 22.25 23.25 24 24.75 25.6 26.4

51cm 53cm 55cm 57cm 59cm 61cm 63cm 65cm 67cm
Finished Length
(Shoulder - Hem)
19
20 21.5 22.5 23.5 24.5 25.25 26 26.75
Fabric Requirements 15.75 16.75 17.5
BODICE
18.5 19.25 20.25 21

22
23
Fabric Requirements
39
40
42
44
48
52
55
60
64
Fabric Requirements
26
27
29
30
32
34
35
37
38
CIRCLE SKIRT
SIMPLE SKIRT
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT SIZING:

Given that this dress has a fitted bodice, it is best to choose your size
based on your childs chest measurement. If they are taller/shorter than
the given height for that size, then adjust the skirt length accordingly.
BUSINESS TIP: I highly recommend providing the childs chest
measurements given in this table when selling your Tea Party dresses so
that your customers can be sure the dress will fit well
Printing Guide
IMPORTANT: Print ONLY the pages needed according to the style and
size you are making - refer to the table below.
Pattern can be printed on A4 or letter paper.
Page scaling must be set to NONE or Actual Size. Make sure you double check the 1 square on each page to make sure it has printed correctly
BEFORE you begin cutting.
Assemble pattern pieces by matching circles with the same number in them.

I.e. match all quarter circles with the number 1, match all quarter circles

with the number 2, etc etc (as shown in diagram).
Circle Skirt
42-44
46-48
42-44
46-48,
50
Gathered Cap
Sleeve
52
52
Size
6-12mo
Straight Skirt 53-58
53-58
42-48 42-48
42-51
50-51 50-51
52
52
52
42-51 42-52 42-52 42-52

52
52
52
52
53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58
NOTE: Straight skirt can be cut using the measurement chart on p7 rather than printing out the pattern piece.
Front:
Scoop
Front:
Princess
Front:
Boat
Front:
V
Back:
Classic
Back:
Scoop
Back:
Cut-Out
Back:
Racer
26 & 27
28 & 29
30 & 31
32 & 33
34 & 35
36 & 37
38 & 39
40 & 41
Button placement
guides are on
pages 50 & 51
Cutting Measurements for Straight Skirt
If you have chosen to use the straight skirt for your Tea Party Dress you have the option of printing the pattern for the rectangular pattern pieces (see Printing Guide for exact pages) OR you can use the table below
to cut the rectangles using your rotary cuter and mat.
6-12mo
FRONT Skirt
Cut 1 - Metric
BACK Skirt
Cut 2 - Metric
FRONT Skirt
Cut 1 - Imperial
BACK Skirt
Cut 2 - Imperial
32cm x 35cm x 36cm x 38cm x 41cm x 43cm x 45cm x 47cm x 48cm x

32cm x 35cm x 36cm x 38cm x 41cm x 43cm x 45cm x 47cm x 48cm x
12.75 x 13.5 14.25 x
29
x 30
31
15 x
32
12.75 x 13.5 x 14.25 x 15 x

15
15.5
16
16.5
Notes before you begin:
16 x
32
16.75 x 17.5 x 18.25

33
35
x 37
16 x 16.75 x 17.5 x 18.25 x

16.5
17
18
19
19
x 39
19 x
20
Cutting Guide
Please read through all of the instructions before you begin to cut or sew.
SEAM ALLOWANCE is INCLUDED in this pattern and is 3/8 (1cm) unless otherwise stated.
For best results, wash and iron all fabric before commencing and press all seams after sewing.
When you see an asterisk* next to a word this is to let you know that the word is explained in more detail
in the glossary (on page 24).
For additional photos of this dress visit the Tadah Patterns website at www.tadahpatterns.com.au
Some IMPORTANT things to remember when cutting:
Take note and follow all instructions written on the pattern pieces (e.g. on fold, how many to cut etc)
Transfer all notches and marking from pattern pieces on to your fabric using an air or water erasable
fabric pen.
TIP FOR CUTTING ARM HOLES: When tracing the armholes from your pattern piece I find it easier to
start from the side seam and then follow the line up to the shoulder.
DIRECTIONAL FABRIC: If you are using directional fabric it is best to select the straight skirt because
the direction of the print will be sideways on the sides of the circle skirt.
Place your fabric down with right side UP, then fold
from selvedge to selvedge with right sides together.
Lay your bodice pattern pieces on top and cut according to diagram.
FOLD
Cutting Your BODICE and (optional)

SLEEVES:
INTERFACING:
If you wish to add interfacing, cut a strip approx

2.5cm (1) wide and the height of your back bodice
button area.
Cutting Your STRAIGHT SKIRT:

Place your fabric with right side down.
EITHER:
Lay your skirt pattern pieces on top
and cut according to diagram.
Measure your pattern pieces according
to chart on previous page and cut to
size.
Need help cutting a perfect rectangle?

The First Timer Skirt pattern has a guide to cutting a perfect rectangle (without a pattern
piece). This is a FREE pattern which you can download from the Tadah! website.
Cutting Your CIRCLE SKIRT:

For sizes 0-3: Place your fabric down with right side UP, then

fold from selvedge to selvedge with right sides together.

Lay your circle skrit pattern pieces on top and cut according to
diagram. NOTE: One is cut ON THE FOLD, the other is NOT. You

should end up with three skirt pieces.
For sizes 4+ : Place your fabric down with right

side down. Lay your circle skirt pattern pieces
on top and cut according to diagram.
NOTE: One is cut ON THE FOLD, the other is
NOT. You should end up with three skirt pieces.
Constructing the Pattern

Prepare the Outer Bodice
1
With front (outer) bodice piece laying right side up, lay the back (outer) bodice pieces down on top
with right side down (right sides facing). Match the straight edge at the shoulders. Sew shoulder
seams. Press seams open.
Interfacing: If you are using

interfacing now is a good time to
iron it on to the WRONG side of
your fabric (follow manufacturers
instructions)
TIP: The diagrams show the scoop
neck bodice with classic back,
however the process is exactly the
same for all other bodice/back
combinations (including those
with mini cap sleeves)
MINI CAP SLEEVES: If you have chosen

to add mini cap sleeves, your sleeves are
included in the bodice/back pattern
piece - you simply sew your shoulder
seams exactly as you would without sleeves.
OPTIONAL: Sew the sleeves

IMPORTANT NOTE:
This section of the pattern is ONLY necessary if you are adding GATHERED CAP sleeves to your dress. If you
are not adding these sleeves please skip to the next section (Prepare the Bodice Lining on page 12).
MINI CAP SLEEVES:

If you have chosen to add mini cap sleeves, you do not need to follow the steps in this section.
Your sleeves are included in the bodice/back pattern pieces - you simply sew your pattern
exactly as you would without sleeves (continuing on the next section Prepare the Bodice Lining
on page 12.
Finish the outside edge of your sleeve piece. You can do this by either of the following methods:
Narrow hem
Fold hem over 1/4 and press.
Fold another 1/4 and press again. Pin in place (optional) and then topstitch.
Rolled hem
Follow the directions in your overlocker manual to create a rolled hem along the curve of the sleeve.
NOTE: It may be possible to create a rolled hem on your regular sewing machine also - check your
user manual for information specific to your machine.
Sew gathering stitch (the longest stitch on your machine - usually 5mm) along the other raw edge of
your sleeve piece as shown below for your chosen style. REMEMBER to leave the thread tails long you will use these to gather the fabric when sewing in your sleeves.
With bodice outer laying right side UP, your

sleeve will be attached right side DOWN.
Place each end of your sleeve on the sleeve
placement notches and pin in place.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads of your gathering stitch (made in step 2) to gather
the sleeve to fit.
Baste* in place approx 1/4
from the edge.
Repeat with the other sleeve.
Prepare the Bodice Lining

5
With front bodice lining piece laying right side up, lay the back bodice lining pieces down on top with
right side down (right sides facing). Match the straight edge at the shoulders. Sew shoulder seams.
Press seam to open.
TIP:
The diagrams show the
scoop neck bodice with
classic back, however the
process is exactly the
same for all other bodice/
back combinations
(including those with
mini cap sleeves)
Fold bottom edge of each lining piece up 3/8 (1cm) and press.
TIP:
You might find it
easier here to overlock the bottom edge
and then fold up.
Construct the Bodice

7
Lay your bodice OUTER with right side UP. Place bodice LINING on top with right side DOWN
(right sides are together).
Carefully line up all edges, shoulder seams and neck curves. Pin in place.
NOTE: These diagrams show the classic back with high arms. To see examples of how to sew other
back/arm options please see the TIP BOX below.
Begin by sewing the
ARM HOLES as shown.

Start sewing from the middle back of the bodice.

Sew up the back, around the neckline and then down
the other side of the back as shown.
For SLEEVES: If you chose to add gathered cap sleeves to your dress
back on page 9-10, make sure your sleeve is sandwiched between the
bodice outer and lining when you sew the arm holes.
ONCE you have sewn the armholes, lift back your lining to reveal
your sleeve and carefully roll the sleeve back towards the side that
you have just sewn - this will keep it out of the way while you sew
the neckline.
Refold the lining back down over the sleeve and pin in place at
the shoulder, making sure the sleeve is well out of the way.
Sewing Other Necklines, Backs and Armholes:
ALWAYS leave the bottom edge and side seams OPEN (i.e. DO NOT sew them yet!)
Clip corners and curves.

If you are unsure where you need to clip simply find your styles below for a guide.
<- Classic back
Cut out back ->
<- Scoop neck

V neckline ->
<- Racer back

Scoop back ->
<- Boat neck
Princess neck ->
Turn the bodice right side out.

To do so, lift the lining and pass
the corner of one back bodice piece
through the shoulder as shown.
Use your other hand to reach inside the

bodice to retrieve the back piece
and pull it through.
BE VERY GENTLE when pulling the bodice through,

you do NOT want to break your stitching!
Repeat with the other back piece until your bodice is
right side out.
Use a chopstick or blunt pencil to push out any
corners then press bodice thoroughly.
TIP:
Do you own a loop turner?

It makes turning the bodice right side
out an easy 2 second job!
OPTIONAL: Topstitch the neckline.
Prepare the Skirt

10
Prepare the skirt pieces.
Circle Skirt: You should have three skirt pieces. One large piece (which was cut on the fold - this
is the FRONT skirt piece) and two smaller pieces (which were cut mirrored - these are the BACK
skirt pieces).
Overlock* or zig zag* down the

MIDDLE straight edge of each back
piece. Set aside.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you are
overlocking down the middle edge as
shown - the pieces MUST be mirror
images of each other.
Straight Skirt: You should have three skirt pieces. One large piece (this is the FRONT skirt
piece) and two smaller pieces (these are the BACK skirt pieces).
Overlock* or zig zag* down the

MIDDLE straight edge of each back
piece. Set aside.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you are
overlocking down the middle edge as
shown - the pieces MUST be mirror
images of each other.
11
Sew gathering stitch* (the longest stitch on your machine - usually 5mm) along the top of the three
skirt pieces (the front and two back pieces).
Remember to leave the threads long to pull later!
Straight Skirt
Circle Skirt
Attach the Skirt

12
Lay your bodice down with right side UP.

You are going to start by attaching the FRONT skirt.
VERY IMPORTANT: FOLD BACK THE BODICE

LINING SO THAT IT IS OUT OF THE WAY
BEFORE PINING/SEWING YOUR SKIRT ON
Place the FRONT skirt piece down on top of

the front bodice with right side down (right
sides are together). Line up the edge of the
skirt with each edge of the front bodice and
pin the sides in place.
Then gently pull the bobbin thread to gather
the skirt to fit.
Pin in place then sew with 3/8 (1cm) seam
allowance.
Press seam up (towards the bodice).
13
Next we are going to sew on the BACK skirts.

Again, lay your bodice down with right side
UP.
VERY IMPORTANT: FOLD BACK

THE BODICE LINING SO THAT
IT IS OUT OF THE WAY
BEFORE PINING/SEWING
YOUR SKIRT ON
Be VERY careful with this next step!
Your middle back is sewn right down to
the raw edge, it is very easy to get the lining
caught as you sew the skirt if you are rushing or not paying attention.
GO SLOW and keep checking that it is out
of the way when you sew.
Place one BACK skirt piece down on top of the back bodice with
right side down (right sides are together).
IMPORTANT NOTE: The overlocked edge of the skirt piece
MUST be towards the middle of the dress.
FOLD the overlocked/zig zagged edge of the skirt over 3/8
(1cm) and place it on the INNER EDGE of your back OUTSIDE
bodice (as shown). Pin in place.
YOU ARE ATTACHING THIS TO
THE OUTSIDE BODICE
(NOT the lining).
Line up the other edge of the
skirt with the outside edge of
the back bodice and pin in
place.
Then gently pull the bobbin
thread to gather the skirt
piece to fit. Pin in place then
sew with 3/8 (1cm) seam
allowance.
Press seam up (towards bodice).
REPEAT with other back piece.
Sewing the Side Seams

14
Begin with your dress laid out

in front of you with right side
UP. Unfold the lining on each
part of the bodice as shown.
Then fold the back of the

dress down so that the back
dress and front dress are
RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
With bodice lining still
unfolded, match the side
seams on each side of the
dress and pin.
You should be folding from
the raw edge of the bodice lining down to the bodice outer
and then along the length of
the skirt.
Sew along length of side from
lining to hem. Overlock or zig
zag.
Press seam allowance to
the back of the dress.
Finish the Bodice

15
Lay your dress over your ironing board with WRONG side up.
Carefully refold the bodice lining under 3/8 (1cm) and press carefully in place.
The fold of the bodice lining should just cover the stitch line joining the skirt to the bodice outer.
TIP: I like to press
the bodice thoroughly, pin carefully in place and then
sew from the right
side to make sure it
is perfectly straight.
Many people like
to use Sewline glue
in spots like this to
keep the fabric in
place while you sew.
Lining
fold is
on top
of stitch
line
16
Topstitch bodice (from right side of dress) approx 1/16 (2mm) from the fold.
This topstitching is sewn to secure the

lining on the inside of the dress and

enclose the bodice (and hide all of the
messiness inside!)
Business Tip:
This is one spot where you could sew in
your sizing and care labels.
Slide them under the back bodice lining
before topstitching.
Attach the Buttons or Snaps

IMPORTANT NOTE: Diagrams in this section show the CLASSIC back. While the number of snaps/
buttons varies depending on the style you have chosen, the process remains the same. If you want to
see the placement for your chosen back please refer to the diagrams on the Mix & Match page 5.
17
Take the left hand back bodice.

Mark the buttonhole placement 1/2 from the edge of the fabric, spaced according to marks on
pattern piece.
1/2
SEW your buttonhole horizontal, using these

marks as the START point.
OR apply your female
(socket) snaps ON
these marks.
18
Take the right hand back bodice.

Mark the button placement 1/2 from
the edge of the fabric, spaced according
to marks on pattern piece.
1/2
SEW your buttons in place on these

mark.
OR apply your male (stud) snaps ON
these marks (facing OUT).
Final Touches
Sew the back seam.
Fold dress in half with right sides together.
Match back skirt pieces.
Measure: 2 (5cm) down from the bottom
of the bodice - place a pin at this point.
This is where you will BEGIN sewing for
the back dress seam.
Unfold the overlocked edge and pin all the
way down to the bottom of the dress.
19
Sew your back seam, starting at the mark

and backstitch a few times to reinforce the
seam.
Sew down to the bottom of the dress.
TIP: Make sure your bodice pieces are lined

up perfectly before sewing this seam.
20
Press back seam open.
Then topstitch the V gap at the top 3/8

(9mm) from the folded edge.
Business Tip:
This is another possible spot to sew in your sizing
and care labels.
Slide them under the back seam before topstitching
in step 20 (above).
21
You may choose to finish the hem of your skirt using a narrow hem or bias tape. Bias tape is a great
way to finish the hem of a circle skirt without having to deal with folds on a curve.
Please follow the instructions for the option that you would prefer.
Narrow hem
Fold hem over 1/4 and press.
Fold another 1/4 and press again. Pin in place (optional) and then topstitch.
TIP: If you have an overlocker a quick

tip is to overlock the edge, then use those
stitches a guide for folding over the perfect
1/4 (6mm) narrow hem.
Bias Tape
With skirt right side up,
place bias tape on top with
right side down.
Unfold one side of the bias tape (as

shown) and line up the edge of the bias
tape with the raw edge of the skirt. Sew
with 1/4 seam (in the fold).
Then fold bias tape to the

wrong side of the skirt and
press.
Pin in place (optional).
Edgestitch.
OPTIONAL: Add Waist Sash

If you would like to add a waist
sash to your Tea Party Dress please
cut 3 rectangle according to the
cutting guide below.
6-12mo
Cut 1
4 x 10.25 4 x 10.5 4.5 x 10.75 4.5 x 11.25 5 x 11.5

5 x 11.75 5 x 12.25 5.5 x 12.75 5.5 x 13.25
10 x 26cm 10 x 27cm 11.5 x 28cm 11.5 x 29cm 12.5 x 30cm 12.5 x 30cm 12.5 x 31cm 14 x 33cm 14 x 34cm
Cut 2
4 x 26
4 x 26.5 4.5 x 27 4.5 x 27.5
5 x 28
5 x 28.5
5 x 29 5.5 x 29.5
10 x 66cm 10 x 67cm 11.5 x 69cm 11.5 x 70cm 12.5 x 71cm 12.5 x 73cm 12.5 x 74cm 14 x 75cm
5.5 x 30
14 x 76cm
22
Place ONE long piece and the short piece with RIGHT
SIDES together. Sew along one short edge.
Press seam OPEN.
23
Sew the OTHER long piece to the

open end of the short piece. Sew
along short edge.
Press seam OPEN.
24
Fold sash in half lengthwise.
25
Sew around the sash as shown, leaving a gap of approx 4 (10cm) to turn the sash right side out.
GAP
TIP:
Do you own a loop turner?

It makes turning a sash like this
right side out an easy 2 second job!
26
Turn your sash right side out through the gap. Press throughly then topstitch (hence closing the gap).
27
OPTIONAL: If you would like your sash to be a permanent

part of the dress you can sew it to the side seams to keep it in
place. Place your sash on the dress (centred correctly) then
pin in place. Carefully sew the sash to the dress directly over
the side seams.
Tadah!
Your Tea Party
Dress is now \
Finished!
Glossary
Backstitch: Used to reinforce your sewing and help keep it from unraveling. Just put your machine in the
reverse position for a few stitches.
Baste: A series of long, loose stitches used to temporarily hold together two pieces of fabric during construction.
Bias Tape/Binding: A narrow piece of fabric cut on the bias (45 degrees to the selvedge) and used to
bind edges.
Edge Stitching: A stitch made very close to a folded edge, generally 1/8 or less, in order to finish a garment, close an opening, or stitch something into place
Fabric Grain: Grain is the way the fabric is woven or knitted together. If you look really closely at your
fabric you will see little threads that run parallel and perpendicular to the selvage. This is the grain of the
fabric.
Gather: Pulling fabric into tiny pleats for a decorative effect. To create a gather sew a basting stitch on the
right side of the fabric leaving long tails of thread. Gently tug the bobbin threads to evenly gather the fabric.
Hem: The bit you turn up at the bottom of a garment to keep it neat and stop it fraying.
Miter: Mitering a corner makes a smooth, tidy finish to a 90-degree corner, neatly squaring the corners
while creating a diagonal seam from the point of the corner to the inside edge.
Notches: Diamond shaped marks on the edge of the pattern, to help you to line up all the pattern pieces
when you sew the garment.
Overlock: A stitch made by an overlocker that cuts and finishes the fabric edge.
Pinking Shears: Scissors with a V shape along the cutting edge used to cut fabric. Pinking your edges
will help them remain essentially ravel-free.
Pressing: Pressing is different from ironing. For pressing use a dampened pressing cloth rather than steam,
pick the iron up off the cloth and move it, rather than rubbing back and forth.
Raw Edge: The cut edge of a piece of garment (not stitched or finished). It may fray or unravel if left in this
state.
Right Side: The outside or top side of fabric; usually softer or smoother, or printed
Rolled Hem: Usually sewn by an overlocker (refer to your manual for directions). It can also be done by
hand with a folding technique fold, fold again, fold again, and stitch through the rolled hem you have created.
Snap: A closure device generally composed of two parts, male and female. Snaps can be sewn in or you can
use a special snap tool to attach snaps to the fabric.
Top Stitching: A decorative stitch usually sewn 1/4 from the edge of a seam.
Wrong Side: The inside or back side of fabric; usually rougher or less finished.
Zig Zag Stitch: A machine stitch with a continuous Z type design that allows seams to stretch; a medium-wide zig zag can be used on the raw edge of fabric to prevent fraying.
Photo Gallery
Many more photos of this dress (featuring different options) can be found
on the Tadah! facebook page and website.
Made by Lishylou Handmade
Made by Ellies Handmade
Made by Squishy Little Sunshine
Tea Party Dress
SCOOP Neckline
FRONT Bodice
Cut 1 (ON FOLD) - main fabric
Cut 1 (ON FOLD) - lining fabric
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
1
Test
Square
A
A
1
Test
Square
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
Tea Party Dress

SCOOP Neckline
B
B
A A
A A
1
Test
Square
Tea Party Dress
PRINCESS Neckline
FRONT Bodice
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
C
C
B B
B B
D
D
C C
C C
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
Tea Party Dress
PRINCESS Neckline
FRONT Bodice
1
Test
Square
FRONT Bodice
E
E
D D
D D
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
1
Test
Square
Tea Party Dress
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
BOAT Neck
FRONT Bodice
E E
E E
1
Test
Square
A
A
1
Test
Square
Tea Party Dress
V Neckline
FRONT Bodice
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
F
F
A A
A A
B
B
1
Test
Square
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
F F
F F
G
G
Tea Party Dress
CLASSIC Back
BACK Bodice
Cut 2 (mirrored) - main fabric
Cut 2 (mirrored) - lining fabric
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
H
H
G G
G G
C
C
B B
B B
1
Test
Square
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
Tea Party Dress

CLASSIC Back
BACK Bodice
I
I
H H
H H
D
D
C C
C C
1
Test
Square
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
Tea Party Dress
SCOOP Back
BACK Bodice
J
J
I
I
I
I
E
E
D D
D D
1
Test
Square
E E
E E
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
1
Test
Square
J J
J J
F
F
1
Test
Square
Tea Party Dress
CUT-OUT Back
BACK Bodice
G
G
F F
F F
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
1
Test
Square
H
G
1
Test
Square
Tea Party Dress
RACER Back
BACK Bodice
I
I
H H
H H
1
Test
Square
Sleeve
Placement
Notches
Cutting KEY
All styles
Optional Low Arm
Optional Mini Cap
Sleeve
1
Test
Square
1
1
Tea Party Dress

1 1 Circle Skirt
1 1 Cut 1 (ON FOLD)
2
2
2 2
2 2
3
3
1
Test
Square
3 3
3 3
1
1
4
4
Tea Party Dress

1 1 Circle Skirt
1 1 Cut 1 (ON FOLD)
Cut 2 (MIRRORED)
2
2
4 4
4 4
5
5
2 2
2 2
3
3
5 5
5 5
6
6
3 3
3 3
1
Test
Square
1
Test
Square
6 6
6 6
CUT-OUT - Use top

and bottom
Tea Party Dress

Button Placement
Guide
Use this
side for 1
button
(ALL sizes)
CLASSIC
&
RACER
Tea Party
Dress
1
Test
Square
Use this
side for 2
buttons
(sizes 5-8
ONLY)
4
4
Use this
side for 2
buttons
Use this
side for 1
button
CUT-OUT - Use top

and bottom
SCOOP - Use bottom
only
Button Placement
Guide
Button
Placement
Guide
CLASSIC
&
RACER
BACK
4 4
4 4
5
5
1
Test
Square
6
6
5 5
5 5
Tea Party Dress

Gathered Cap Sleeve
Cut 2
1
Test
Square
1
Test
Square
P
P
1
Test
Square
Tea Party Dress

Straight Skirt
Cut 1 (ON FOLD)
Cut 2 (MIRRORED)
P P
P P
Q
Q
Q Q
Q Q
P
P
1
Test
Square
P P
P P
Q
Q
1
Test
Square
Q Q
Q Q

Tea Party Dress

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Tea Party Dress

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Size Guide & Materials Required

Mix & Match

Prepare the Outer Bodice

OPTIONAL: Sew the Sleeves

Prepare the Bodice Lining

Construct the Bodice

Prepare the Skirt

Attach the Skirt

Sew the Side Seams

Finish the Bodice

Attach the Buttons or Snaps

OPTIONAL: Add a Waist Sash

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Tea Party Dress

This Tea Party Dress will quickly become you go-to

Choose different finished each time to create a

SEE Page 5 for the full list of

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Size Guide & Materials Required

20.1 20.85 21.65 22.25 23.25 24 24.75 25.6 26.4

Fabric Requirements 15.75 16.75 17.5

18.5 19.25 20.25 21

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT SIZING:

Tea Party Dress - Page 4

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Tea Party Dress - Page 5

Straight Skirt 53-58

42-51 42-52 42-52 42-52

53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58 53-58

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Cutting Measurements for Straight Skirt

32cm x 35cm x 36cm x 38cm x 41cm x 43cm x 45cm x 47cm x 48cm x

12.75 x 13.5 x 14.25 x 15 x

Notes before you begin:

16.75 x 17.5 x 18.25

16 x 16.75 x 17.5 x 18.25 x

Some IMPORTANT things to remember when cutting:

Cutting Your BODICE and (optional)

If you wish to add interfacing, cut a strip approx

Tea Party Dress - Page 7

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Cutting Your STRAIGHT SKIRT:

Need help cutting a perfect rectangle?

Cutting Your CIRCLE SKIRT:

For sizes 4+ : Place your fabric down with right

Tea Party Dress - Page 8

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Constructing the Pattern

Interfacing: If you are using

MINI CAP SLEEVES: If you have chosen

Tea Party Dress - Page 9

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OPTIONAL: Sew the sleeves

MINI CAP SLEEVES:

Tea Party Dress - Page 10

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With bodice outer laying right side UP, your

Tea Party Dress - Page 11

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Prepare the Bodice Lining

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Construct the Bodice