CUTTING

DESIGNING.

GRADING

AND

Bi
OOT AND SHOE PATTERNS

BY

OF

EXPERT

AN

ROOM,

STITCHING

THE

FOR

MANUAL

COMPLETE

AND

THIRTY

YEARS.

ILLUSTRATED.

THOROUGHLY

Sv^^S'sJw;

Copyrighted by Joseph

BOSTON,
PRESS

OF

Van

Ness,

iSgg.

U.S.A.

SUPERINTENDENT

AND

1S99.
L

FOREMAN.

^^Js

^
t?871fi
Bottom

is from

This measurement

of Heel.

Eureka Fasteners
LACE

FOR
These
in shoes
do
is

Fasteners
at

same

stringsnow,
taken
they

are

put

time
you
and
if care
will last for

SHOES.
Cheaper than Strings
and
Saves Half of Labor.

vears.

wear
on

long as

as

any heel

the market.
It is the

it IS

as
cheapest,

whole hael.

Women

For

Patented

iVVen.

and
February S,

You

iSgS.

save

and

do

any

lifts.

not

rand

your
have

to

use
Patclil

Adopted by the LargestManufacturers.

Price $3.00 dozen,

To

Sizes 5, 7, 8, 9.

be used wfiile making shoes.

They
$3.50 doz. for n, 12,J3.

can

be used
Will

Russet, 5c. pair extra.

nails

C.

S.

inch.

1-4

not

over

again.

stretch.

Every shoe uniform.

MEN'S
Countersink

apjJIK-dloi

Pierce,

Brockton, Mass., U.S.A.

THE IMPROVED COTE GRADING MACHINE.

W^OCDf ''EB

"yecfciv6o

Patented
Patented

in

March

Europe
and

l,

1892

America.

J it 2; 1889
vflfe'^is-fae'
only machine
s^^P?*

of upper patterns. Whole

sets of all widths
Pattern
tliat tilingup is not necessary.
cannot
Absolute
fail to appreciatethis feature.
men
fittingof lasts is guaranteed, no matter what
the grade may he, American, EngMsh or Continental, without extra parts, labor or further adjustment.
This machine
in operation at the office of
may be seen

caH'tlE'
graded from

C.

one

B.

width

which

will

grade widths

set of standards

HATFIELD,

143

and

so

Federal

LOUIS

true

Street,

COTE,

Boston,

Mass.

St. Hyacinthe, P. Q.

CONTENTS.

Page.

CHAPTER

I.

Moulding

Last

the

CHAPTER

n.

Getting

Dissecting

and

the

Standard
.......

CHAPTER
Button.'^

Lady's

HI.

Right

in

Boot."

Dongola

Position

11
.

CHAPTER

IV.
Fly.

Vamping

"

Getting

Lining

Linings.

"

Fly.

Circular

V.

ton
But-

and

Through

Button

the

CHAPTER

Cloth

The

14

Vamp.

Rounding

"

Corners

OFF

18
.

CHAPTER

VI.
A

"

Button

Fly

ing.
Fac-

Top

and

Foxing.

Popular

25

...

CHAPTER

VII.

Whole-Foxed

Cloth

Vamps,

Seamless

or

Quarters,

ings
Lin-

F"ly

and

28
........

CHAPTER

VIII.

Vamp

Woman's

Gypsy

Beaded

Dongola

Button

Boot
.

CHAPTER

IX.

Climax

Side

The

Button

Quarters

Shoe

Lace
Front

Boot.

33

and

Back

and

"

38
.......

CHAPTER

X.

Woman's

CHAPTER

XI.

Congress.

Le.\ther

Button

Boot

With

44

Rolled

Top

46
........

CHAPTER

XII.

Lace

Front

Shoes

50

CHAPTER

XIII.

Cloth

Quarters

and

Welt

Shoes
.

CHAPTER

XIV.

Vamp,

Oxford,

McKay,

Quarters,

Foxed

55

Circular
Circular

and

Linings

59

.......

CHAPTER

XV.

CHAPTER

XVI.

and

Low

An

Even

Bead

Newports,

Oxford

Southern

65
Ties,

Cuts

67

......

CHAPTER

XVII.

Strap

Sandals

and

Opera

Slippers

73

.......

CHAPTER

XVIII.

Women's

Cloth

Tips

"jj

......

CHAPTER

XIX.

Men's

gress.
Con-

Shoes

80
...

Contents.

Continued.

"

P-\GE.

CHAPTER

Concerning

XX.

Men's

Vamps

85

CHAPTER

XXI.

Men's

Lace

Congress.

and

Lasting

89

.......

CHAPTER

XXn.

F"itting

Lasting

and

the

Congress

95

.......

CHAPTER

XXni.

Grading

Upper

P.\t-

terns

100

........

CHAPTER

XXIV.

CHAPTER

XXV.

Grading

Hand

by

104

Button

Getting

Grading

the

Working

Fly,

Lining

and

EE,

and

from

Infants

1 10
.....

CHAPTER

XXVI.

Inch

The

Old

One-Sixteenth

Rule

114

.......

CHAPTER

XXVII.

One

Correct

Method

116
.

CHAPTER

XXVIII.

Use

Grading

Three-Width

only

Some

Widths,

Heel

Patterns,

Measure

I 22
.......

CHAPTER

XXIX.

Grading

Button

Fly

129

^-

Veiours
,

oreatest

K^Cllf ^;4^

Success.
JK Ccchnical Journal

BLACK

AND

COLORS,
]publi6bc^

GLAZED

AND
The
to

cvcr\? CucsCtav
jFcDcral
Street,
11.5.3.,
IRoom
U,
Sboe
Xeatber
an^
Uan
CraC"c"i, br
Sosepb
V^cii.
Sii'bscriinion,52

DULL.

glazed stock

143
36o5ton,
for tbe
at

is

equal

the finest kid made

and

shoe

ambitious
should
CALF

put
"

of

per

will

their

for

Pfister d

samples and

prices.

und seine (Uerkfuebrer

Vo^el

J^eather
J

/^

Co.

Tanners

and

corners,

the

.i^ND

'7/filwaukee,Wis.
Street, New

161-3 Summer

York

German

the

year,

of

of

.ind

is

payable

of
in

Europe.

advance.

JOSEPH
143

Federal

SUPERINTENDENT

Street,

on

first and

circulation

mainly

published

month,

every

continent

City.

Street, Boston, Mass.

e"lition

FOREMAN,

fifteenth
on

37 Spruce

a"=

Per ScbMbfabriKant

is

Z'

in

pavablc

chrome

skins.

Write

v^car,

vancc.

ples.
sam-

supersede

boarded

and

leading

"VELOURS

into
It

diced

where,
anymanufacturers

.Subscription
for

Aildress

VAN

S5

NESS,

Boston,

either,

U.S.A.

INTRODUCTION.

It is my
of

designing
keep
in

uppers

other

the

labor

in

which,

stock

the

in

also

treat

sizes

and

of

drawn

Canada,

in

and

without

more

or

of

grading

chines,
ma-

the

various

all with

ly
careful-

magnitude,
United

almost

where

gathering

for

by

goods
tendents
superin-

for

myself,

that

is

filled

so

the

become
of

subject

the

on

large prices

which

training,

shoe

intelligible.

which

designer, capable

or

task

publications

are

one

seen

previous

make

to

there

their

points

and

and

heavy

very

almost

States

boot

every

and

asked,

are

ordinary

person

thorough

doing practical

tern
patin

work

factory.

boots

and

these

in

with

commence

low

youth's

to

character
the

heel

cuts,

welts

McKay's,

and

will

the

end

that

that

any

person

necessary

women's,
and

turns

and

The

the

N.

writer

be

will

information

exoerience

Y., October,

will

B.

illustrated
use

his

may

inclined
become

HATFIELD.

1897.

be

treat

Men's,

individually.

mechanically

practical

children's

and

heel.

all will

C.

ROCHESTER,

misses'

spring

and

follow,

diagrams.

necessary

it and

made

methods

describe

the

undertaking

patterns
have

yet

never

at

that

shoe

I will

from

thirty-fiveyears

last

except

difficult

so

aware

maker

the

different

I shall

the

and

foremen,

and

am

of boot

boys'

the

various

instructing manufacturers,

hesitate

detail

shoe

for

America,

made,

nevertheless

and

be

that

be

"style."

the

travelling throughout

or

can,

of

all

will

time

save

of considerable

visiting repeatedly

are

with

results.

been

have

manufacturer

but

widths

undertaking

an

continuously

at

in

and

may

grading, fully illustrating

hand

is

although

with

call

full length

the

patterns

full

are

stantly
con-

diagrams.

This

only

to

pers
up-

on

aim

produce

to

we

I shall

room,

art

that

so

constant

room,

and

well,
which

the

comparing
methods

lasting
My

the

performed

factory methods,

something

I shall

be

to

cutting
and

fit well, look

definite

grading

the

patterns

perfectly.

the

factory.

modern

our

that

the
in

shoe

lasts

in

fitting room,

with

shoes

less

of

departments

fully illustrate

operations

the

fitting room,

economize

to

and

fit the

may

in mind

of and

boot

cutting

and

therefrom

cut

write

to

purpose

best
of
can

with
deavors
en-

such
from

oroficient.

PATTERNS.

SHOE

AND

BOOT

CHAPTER

I.

THE

MOULDING

It

is

first

In

ways.

the

over

the

last, rubbed

and
leather

the

edge

of

cut

from

the

the

leather

and

flattened

are

of

leather,

Such
is

on

drill

or

is

invented

Cut

bv

The

heel.

inside,

the

these

shells

pieces

two

mould.

proper

it

but

work,

heavy

by

work.

fasten

lines
the

to

with

heavy
The

last.

will
a

used

all

piece
by

at

manila

professional
the

to

of

cover

shape
one

and

dififerent

sult
re-

when

of
side.

identical
paper,

pattern
one-half
Next

od
meth-

correct

mould

people

the

results.

compare

different

ten

arrive

two

is the

these

nineteen

that

correct

so

of

positive,

most

myself

instructions,

localities

enough

method,

simplest,

and

Let

follows:

either

by

The

to

of

centre

Partly

similar

on

neither

that

proof
as

last

simple

fine

to

the

is

line

better.

no

found

same

shellac

the

these

give

where

straight

from

of

with
Then

last

edges

coarse,

proceeds

using

the

to

very

drawn

position

to

one

average

for

different

appearance.

slashing

for

method

Positive
is

parts,

two

mean

do

may

canvas,

of

is supposed

paper,

Another

that

by

The

out.

centre

shell-like

sufficiently accurate

not

was

partly

mould

in

top,

the

it fits closely

the

the

at

is

dried.

of

edge
Then

the
in

last

outside,

the

moistening

down

the

until

thoroughly

tht

cone,

in

this

in this

come.

the

and

off

comes

other

would
of

up

until

around

insole

last

moulded

last

away

centre

and

toe,

the

is cut

the

is moistened,

It is fastened

the

on

the

and

point.

remains

leather

upper

down

every

the

of

vamp

do,

to

try

or

don-

circular
mould

Let

last.

proper

sewed

properly

do,

piece

last at

tacks

To

Men

one

with

McKay

boot.

operation.

LAST.

start

we

woman's

buttoned

gola

to

with

begin

us

that

premised

GRADING

AND

CUTTING

DESIGNING,

method

practical

most

years

ago

followed

in

so

ing
accord-

and

out

people

method

"

different

ten

results.
about

the

makers,
the
draw

into

shape
it

last, leaving
a

line

of

substance

with

proximating
ap-

large

pencil

Designing, Cutting,and

from

the centre

toe

top,

on

welt

the

or

as

come

of the paper

up

the

springing

toe,

the

spring
tacks

of

as

the

and

last.

as

seen

support,

down

the

is

This

in
rub

on

half way

neither

up

side, tack

swing
right position.

and

the last at the

it to the

nor

down

side of
the

on

naturally,thus preserving the

is very

essential:

Use

do

twist

paper.

not

diagram
the

lower

i.

the

\Miile

of the sole

its
up,

it to

tack

lying flat,tack

paper
lie

edge

last

of the

If it be

locates.

the

until it is in the

Then

i.)

choose, but

you

slash the paper

upon

to

eye

heel, about

the paper

last, but allowing it

the

Lay

shank.

(See diagram

ball, and, while

c-.s

last where

the

side of the

to

paper

the toe

the

on

the centre

of the last to

centre

near

last, line

turn

or

would

of the comb

Grading

as

many

Next

the last is

edge along

the

toe

ing
ly-

line of

and

Boot

the

with

sole

which,
the

rubbed

being

sole

"A,"

of

the

the

heel,

downward

Care

i.

the

or

curved

Patterns.

knife,

black

leave

must

be

mark,

at

lead,
of

the

the

of

corner

dotted

lower

the

line

back

last

dotted

by

anything

or

See

lift from

shown

as

of

mark.

taken

will

paper

bit

projection

the

along

last, will

diagram
of

handled

dirty

Shoe

and

ner
corcause

line

gram
dia-

B,

I.

When

each
I,

piece

pencil

last

and

of

the

last

that

first

the

last

mark

"

of

one

out

the

which
sewed.

Mark

until

the

the

out

have

now

be

in

is

another

half

with

of

what

position

lines

will

last.

the

is

and

ished.
fin-

remove

other

side

you

both

gives

line
with

whole

tacks

the

This

average

on

mould,

your

You

mean

these

relative

same

the

bring

diagram

on

to

of
line

sole,

time,

at

one

paper.

of

numerals

with

way

of

calculate

to

means

pull

line

of

the

sides

paper.

obtain

the

cut

on

small

the

on

same

piece

the

middle

operation

in

another

To

of

this

Proceed

paper.

the

knife

with

After

the

successively,

through

cut

or

determined

with

etc.,

drawn

already

thus

marked

as

1-2-3-4-5,

"

have

you

on

what
this

and

See

each.

splitting
\'our

of

all

sides

two
to

necessary

piece

moulds,

these

around

paper,

the

in

other,

diagram

differences,

by

one-half

cover

manila
then

and
"

this

After

2.
or

the

dividing

tween
be-

eye.

is
instance

called

the
a

mould

woman's

of

4-C

the

last,

McKay

CHAPTER

The

for

is

that

the

work,
the

both

mould

get

front

mould.

the

the

more,

is

for another,

things

These
for

has

he

have

must

and

be

willing

The
F

This

centre

of

is to

be, in

is

point

ball

of

will

rest

the
on

sole

is to

decided

this
draw

mould.
when
lower.

the

instance
a

to

way

line

This

any

the

and

floor

of

means

his

maker,

of

it would

be

signing
de-

ory.
the-

of

that
the

heel

the

from

and

edge
the

4,

the

about

inch;

floor

in

diagram

from

straight

forts;
ef-

his

sense

See

an

cers.
pin-

against

as

the

represents

only

enough

uses

breast

of

the

common

line.

the

and

proficient

down

that

little

is not

results

all times

and

or

pattern

sound

three-fourths

finished,

by

the

of

measuring

by

laster

become

to

the

height

the

observe

store

get

by

done

factory

one

be

it at

use

heel

the

this

of the

to

of

lasting

stock

the

for

the

good

bottom

little less

a
on

proposes

step

next

F.

who

one

any

must

place
McKay

for

for

largely

to

opportunity

the

and

take

may

mostly

and

4.

just enough

owing

Select

the

stock

boot

any

leg.

the

around

sufiticient

depending

amount

What

factory.

It

insole.

or

dividers

draw

DIAGRAM

covering

of

lace,

standard

pair

and

gives

This

make

to
a

in

back

outside

complete

or

boot, side

and

Set

it.

on

shell

button

five-eighths mch,

say

last

to

STANDARD.

THE

large enough

paper

last

be

ordinary

an

seamed

of

piece

will

step

next

Standard

DISSECTING

AND

GETTING

II.

to

the
shoe

thickness

Boot

Patterns.

rear

say

Now

erect

seven

and

back

of the

from

the

mould,

or

of

means

inches

six

Some
the

leg

If

do

you

smallest

in diagram

5.

add

back, and

diagram
This
the back

the

girth

erect

4,

being

for

the

in the

curves

of the
two

the

across

measure

it

est,
great-

last;

ball of the

seams,

perpendicular from

the

and

front

See

floor.

A.

4-C,

is six inches

straightline

or

inch

another

line

where

measurement

one-eighth

should

this line

this curve,

have

not

part of the ankle,

one-half

the

tical.
ver-

have

5.

DIAGRAM

front

of the
the

shoes

fine

ladies' shoes, shown

for

curve

from

ladies'

of

manufacturers

eye,

your

heel of the

bottom

the

backward

inch

an

by

of the

from

upward

three-eighthsof

for the

curve

drawn

curve,

the

get

top of the back

the

near

Then

inches.

half

pomt

and

adopted

leg by

top,

to

mould

then

floor by
the
perpendicular line from
the
extreme
of a right angled square,
just touching
the
and
of
the
mould
at
heel,
extending
upwards
point

means

No.

Shoe

and

be

intersects

perpendicular

as

more,

across

the

from

standard

height

the rand

The

the

eye

up.
will

the

slantingup at the
perpendicular measure

same

amount

height

tell you,

the top,
the

in America

of space

so

front.

as

at

at

the

draw

Where

back

from

the

top of

Designing, Cutting,and

the

back

line lays

this

point in

front

that

you

Grading

bacjc of the back perpendicular. From

draw
urement
a straightline to the point of measthe
See diagram 4,
have
ankle.
across

line "B."
This

unless

which,
with

finishes

your

the
have

you

fixed

some

strikingthe

eye,

the

leg except
comb

the

at

curve

curve,

throat,
put in

must

you

of the last.

using a size stick,get the length of the last. As

all ladies' lasts nowadays are
made
quitegenerally known
in
least one
size longer than standard
America,
measure
Now,

is
at

that

so

four

size

Consequently
now

to

this

length

point of

extreme

the

case

five sizes

sizes

the

to

of the last, from

it

make

to

toe,

length of

extreme

the

on

length of

It is

the pattern

bulge of heel

extreme

long enough
standard

the

size stick.

five sizes.

draws

experiment

4H

add

to

the

draw

present

our

necessary
over

would

In

last.

to

would

be

9/4

sizes.
It is better

end

to

such

as

would

be

such

as

side

lace

the

in

standard

of the

toe

desirable

to

seam

toe

congress,

gipsy, button,

horizontal

line from

on

curve

"gipsy"

or

See

etc.

cut,
gram
dia-

4.

Now
to

draw

the extreme

divide

of the

bulge

into

three

heel, and
See

equal parts.

point of the toe

a pair of dividers
diagram 4, lines "C,"
the

with

"D."

By
line at

of

means

first third.

inch

an

See

diagram

ahead

of

circular

the vamp

and

standard

for

the

height

may

woman's
of

obtained

cases.

one-fourth

and

from

drawn

end

the

The

length of

curve

be

now

be from

to

three

The

inches.

shape

of taste.
for various

dissected

before

of shoes, but

be

four

seven-eighthsof
to

it is desired

is entirely a matter

curve

The

size 4 is

shoe, size 4, varies according

at the present time

five-eighthsto

of the

in extreme

finished

from

upward

perpendicular line

back

except

top in

on

to taste, but

on

this is the place at which

vamp

horizontal

the

4.

shank

of the

the third, D, and

from

intersectingthird, and

of the

centre

down

draw

square

of

point

rear

The

further

styles

standard

proceeding
get
spring heel 4-C; the only difference being
the heel, showing that the floor line,F, must

from

the

shoe

out

it will be

as

See

finished.

gram
dia-

ID.

It will

be

observed

straighterin

leg is somewhat
the

throat
a

it is in

heel

Now

got

out

fourths

is somewhat

curve

foot is in

different

inches

at

curve

the

back

of the

spring heel shoe, and

This

sharper.

positionrelativelyto

the

is because

leg than

that
the

when

shoe.

notice
from

the

that

diagram
last made

high

This

11.

to

at the breast.

carry

The

represents
a

heel

one

diagram

standard

and
shows

threevery

Boot

and

plainly a difiference

in the

curve

much

throat

curve

sharper;

the

particulars it is just the

A

continuation

Shoe

Diagram
the

where

The

12

vamp,
the

amount
more

shows

the

vamp

the

curved

is stitched

back

spring

curve

leg;

it is

in these

heel shoe.

in its present

posi-

11.

standard

with

line of the
and

of lap required is not

is required than

of the

is straighter; and
of

DIAGRAM

of

the back

at

reverse

of the

Patterns.

in

the

the

front

lap

others.

of the

that

uniform.
Some

curved

line

quarter

is required.
In

some

factories

tories
facre-

one-fourth

quire
is best

in

all

in

in

the

use

is to

be

cut

by

of

of

it

provided

beading,
It is very

add

to

easy

This

out.

getting

lap for

the

make

be

to

serves

plain

or

beaded

the

diagram

lines

top

edge
wave

the

top,

button

boot
where

one

the

with
it is

of

purpose
an

beaded.

even

for

opening.

when

getting

the

question

the

the

of
bead

lower

referring
the

getting
around

the

out

the

first

edge

two

of
the

is made

standard

leg

edge

representing

other
This

of

top

laid

foxing

Again

the

near

plain

for

was

shows

quarter.

representing

lining, "L."

cloth

the

for

standard

also

12

"H,"

marked

for

the

notice

will

you

allow

12.

whether

bottom

at

across,

facing,
of

lap,

vamp

confusion,

prevent

Diagram

12,

drawn

to

as

vamp.

with

out,
to

arises

the

standard.

the

in

the

cut

never

vamp,
to

DIAGRAM

sometimes

of

and

vamp,

beading

advantage

pattern,

our

beaded

the

the

lap

been

has

it.

out

the

No

factory.

It

inch.

that

lap

the

changing

arbitrarily

representing

paper

with

of

room

Grading

three-eighths

others

paterns

stitching

convenience

Always

it

only,

to

gamed

For

piece

inch

cases

and

Cutting,

Desi^nin^,

lO

of

the

top

with

standard
the

per
up-

CHAPTER

To
a

cut

of paper

piece

quarters

at

alike, the

the

around
to

both

leave

course

get

size.

same

(see diagram

end

the

13)

DIAGRAM

the

along

ter

the

curve

fourth

instep

of

of

an

three-fourths

it may

be

portion
to

of

of throat

top

cut

round

the

an

to

when

corner,

out
as

in

from

that
the

quarter
from
in

two

other.
Cut

it would

as

Mark

cut

around

This

out.

away

be

the

at

of

will

for

small

an

inch

tom
botquar-

13.

reached,

inch

small

straight

is

size

three-sixteenths

Measure

curve

termed

of the

it

throat

inch.

line

Cut

centre.

Commencing

"C,"

at

first, cut

necessarily exactly

in

quarters..

your

the

then

are

get

pattern

in the

increased
to

one

boot

fold

to

They

not

one

BOOT.

button

dongola

cutting.

one

standard

DONGOLA

large enough

second

by marking

LADV

ladies'

III.

then
the

at

the

at

the

diagram

cut

The

and

is finished,
the

lowest

top.

from

button
will

It will

point of top

13, letter

"B."

one-

quarter,

finish

fly or

until

about

away

of the

top

front

point.
shoe

of

say
the

lap,

cover
save

and

as

that
stock
then

Designing, Cutting,and

12

BUTTONS

Permit

greatest

in

of trouble

source

positionsof the buttons.

room

in

that the

front

Oftentimes

great

seam

of the

bulges

run

the

fly between
showing a bad

inch

below

up

put

of
five-eighths

to

drawn

having

seam,

amination
Ex-

places to hold

down

having

not

small

the

an

there

quarter

it belongs.

where

cut
to
follyto undertake
patterns
the one-thirty-secondof an
inch, and
boots
to
button
allow by carelessness, neglect,or thi-ough ignorance,
and
on
to put buttons
operative in the stitchingroom
in their proper
them
be further
have
places. It may

for
then

the
not

height

is

said that there

the

is put

inch

The

small

throat

will not

shoe

at the

button

curve.

boot

be

the

at

even

The

out

from

the inside

end

vamping,
seam
by the centre
for
the
positions

while

only

in this

manner.

ed
fold-

edges, when
held

by

other
low
be-

will extend

of the

small

all the

way

buttons

the

thumb

the

by the

down

an

in theory,

three-eighths of

to

lower

clear

is lapped

throat,

one-eighth

teur,
ama-

line

correct

side of the upper

the

when

unless

button

or

be

bottom

and
carefullyalong the instep seam
drawn
the
bottom
edges
finger,

hand.

that

one-eighth of

to

may

by

See

instep

the

fit if cut

will not

than

boots

position.
professionaland

bottom

This

of attention

want

manufacture.

down

quarter

inch

an

dongola

by

on

makers,

pattern

of

the

near

but

buttons

in its proper

on

the

away

one-sixteenth

caused

transpiresin their

great many
cut

trouble

more

thing that
button

every

of

placing of

proper

one

any

and

eighths

first

the

the button

under

quarter

buttons

front

in their proper

on

or

been

It is the

to

three-

tom
bot-

wrinkle.

All this is the result of the

the

by lasting.
been

it is from

that

The

and

vamp

fullness

of the line of the small

fly shows

crooked.

the inside.

to

away

button

up,

ing
last-

factories,it will be found

shoe

the instep of the last is very

to

correct

in

the shoes

at

the

to

boot, viz, the

button

reference

point and

By looking

many

on

it appears

end
button

this

digressionat

POSITION.

RIGHT

IN

Grading

inch,

an

quarter
up

the

to

being

are

marked.

from

appliesto a dongola button boot; but if

buf?, or anything of that kind,
heavy grain,split,

small

quarter should

this

Now

one-fourth
In

of

an

over

will be found

simply
There

it does

adds
are

beading

the

few

is done

to

the

the

of

of

Only

factories

evenly down

quarter

in the

boot

to

down

United

that line,but

the

be

mark
re-

ofT

beads

Look

theory.

all the

liningdoes

small

inch.

quarter

another

the

instep line from

an

button

small

factory ready

that the cloth

on

the

down

quarter

not.

in

lot of shoes

away

five-sixteenths

"Why,

made,

But

seam."

cut

to

small

fittingthe

is often

be

inch

cut

vamped.
beading

It
and

the

front

line.

States

where

the

they

are

but

few.

CHAPTER

THE

The

next

to

cut

about

may

termed
stitch

by,

the

to

match

front

of

of

and

on"

does

cost

lining

obliged

to

be

small

side.

distance

the

judgment

from

ofi

the

the

fitted

the

words,

she

the

of

edge

liable

is very

consequence,

smooth

is

add

the

is

use

shoe

ferent
dif-

coming

linings through

the

wrinkles.

adopted

generally

now

inch.

one-fourth

seam,

to

the

operator
what

and

measurement

eye

In

required

as

down

lining pattern

where

next

cloth

from

one

have

with

to

difference;

If

if

less, take

greater

difference.
a

piece of

standard,

at

up

paper

diagram

standard

commencing
the

left to

operator

may

is

allowance

Fold

Lay

are

regulation

the

next

other

back

guide

15.

operator,

from

that

while

Linings

seam

the

operator

one

the

If

eye.

measurement.

eye

as

of

entirely, the

used

legs

her

with

lining

(generally
a

away

In

cloth,

judgment

her

trimmed

the
on

The

operator

use

low
al-

the

that

so

closer")

to

will

Leave

lining.

the

It is

full quarter,

front,

the

"second

DIAGRAM

the

the

quarter.

on

her

lining.

production

the

gives

to

the

gauge

of

down

require

the

on

cloth

small

the

material

FLY.

for

one

out,

or

not

of

the

the

little

fray

to

"closer

amount

is not

get

inch

an

HUTTON

to

the

back

set

liable

the

be

where

to

be

so

AND

lining patterns,

away

being

will

cases

one-twelfth

quarter
not

all

two

cut

LINING

step

in

preferable

other

CLOTH

IV.

the
the

large enough
12

upon

cross

line

"L,"

other

side

and

it

and

going
again

both

cut

to

mark

linings.
around,

entirely around
stop

at

"L."

As

Boot

So

sewed.

for

inch

allowed

be

must

While

supplies
desired

the
the

come

up

three-eighths

at

the

so

their patterns cut

"closer

on"

the

of

in
the

goods
passed

are

the

leaves

no

the

on"

"closer

quarter.

back

down
to

of

the

to

bad
140

hole

be
at

on"

then

making

of the

the

end

back
of

the

finer

outside

in
toe

them

on

up

to

the
little
This

vamping.
seam.

liningrunning
required.
a

at

at this

quarter, when

rip

ofif.

commences

factories
the

right

shoots

left open

girls," who
turned

that the

considers

hole

stitches

the end

represents

top facing is

of

bad

will find

manner

she

liningand

is

majority

"table

where

time

lining generally

"closer

liningsmay

Diagram
where

is

of the

of the

left at

in such

the

there

quarter

lining clear

also

front

that

as

back

the

the present

at

work

to

on

of the

seam

the

Likewise

that

through

seam,

inch

where

hole

no

about

to

outside

toe

of

end

point.

so

be

cheap

on

down

runs

stitchingthe

shoes

See

shank.

140.

lining.
majority of factories

The

the

ready
al-

in the

seam

grade

upper

quarter. This

of

toe
an

in the

made

will

the
of

match

to

as

notch

By doing this, there

of

ending

DIAGRAM

Since

in the

of

has

position,mark

the

has

the

in the
much

so

top; also at front

for

quarter,

stopped

the

at

vamp

guide

to

is still in

standard

front of the

in

added

pair of

bottom

15, "A."

lap of

toe

the

stretch

notwithstanding

more

of

means

all around
the

McKay-

lining. After

McKay

standard, by
an

15

ladies' dongola

equivalentfor

by lasting; and

diagram
the

the

around

to give material
tliis,

been

is for

one-eighth of

dividers, add

Patterns.

pattern will be

the

having marked

obtained

Shoe

this pattern

understood,

is

and

to

the

to|)

VAMPING

Vamping
One

can

needed

through

to

the

turn

the

on

together by
shown

that it is

case

latter

fault

causes

point; therefore
eighth inch longer

inch

how

short

seam.

of

eighth

the

To

This

the

on

quarter, "C," and

sixteenths

"A,"

of

and

an

at

of

to

of the

cloth

toe

inch

termed

in

custom

with
the

on

the

trouble

standard

is

gram
diaends

about

one-

top line

the

little below

notch

get

THE

many

pattern in

give

way

to

of

top

line of

about

one-

If

BUTTON

button

or

to

top

is.desired
off the threefor

it

the

seems

in fitting.

great

strength

foot.

FLV.

lap.

fly,or
It has

as

been

flyquite a spring when

make
it hug closelyto the

the

seam

of the

of the

get the button

to

quarter,

the operator

benefit

ball

of the

the

seam

cut

added

guide

the

to

no

to

front

the

up

there, and

and

vamp

the

down

been

to

and

places, the
to

the

the

Cut

has

is

the

the

above

under

of

be well

cloth

seam

inch

an

end

above.

step will be

some

far.

with

shoe

be

gives

inch

an

which
a

the

across

next

evenly,
un-

too

and

to

Cut

lining,"A."

GETTING

The

same

them

of it cut

of

back

lining,it would

only make

not

Strike

end

bottom

inch

an

However,
waste

of

the

the large side

of the

the

lowance
lining,for alof
the
and
to
two
notljing
height
completes the large lining.
lining,place the small quarter in
the front
liningand mark around

small

position

in the toe

all
has

of

By referring to

standard.

15, "A."

of it,leaving one-twelfth

match

go

highest point back, three-eighthsof

of th^ quarter, as
shown
in the

from

the

three-eighthsof

the

others

of the

lining

your

the bottom,

at

inches.

its proper

well.

the front

diagram

obtain

from

time

the toe

three-sixteenths

for counter,
one-fourth

are

to

as

front

inch

an

much

perpendicular,which

See

hands

so

draws

vamper

that

the

have

Raise

standard
toe

than

the

standard.

it costs

linings. Part

others

draw

never

allow

at

from

but

tight heel lining.

and

the standard
an

cut

smooth

get

matter

seam

table

no
are

enough forward,

15, it will be noticed

toe

here.

cuttingpatterns
for

patterns

and

quite far

tight heel lining,no

will
spent in lasting,

of the

considered

of the

boots

not

some

The

The

come
fairlysmooth,
the
wrinkled, because

be

be

in
lining and the outside
description. An experience of years
through
absolutelyimpossible to vamp

button

may

will

case

of

linings back,

edge

of whatever

liningsof

LININGS.

linings may

uppers.

the

shoes

the

THROUCJH

that by this method

see

nothing

at

Grading

Desi^ninf^,Cuttini^,and

it is
the
ting
cut-

shoe

scalloped edge.

Try one with no spring,having the small quarter cut

according to directions, and put the buttons on the
away
in just the correct
shoe
positions. The result is likelyto
be very
pleasing.

Boot

To

the

get

middle

of

fly,
If

bottom.

and

the

leg

Shoe

and

at

have
the

the

round

mark

you

top

for

vamp

24.

correct

line.

sweep

Then

as

finish

possible,
from

for

17

large

curve

no

DIAGRAM

as

Patterns.

quarter

fly,
and

start

take

bring

front,

top

about

the

down

in

almost

to

24.

until
bottom

come

you

up.

See

diagram

CHAPTER

V.

CIRCULAR

To

cut

12,
of

on

it and

ready

to

of

of

of
the

also

ofT the

the

the

will

This

vamp.

half, will

where

be

gives

vamp

When

in the

the

is

upper

The

an

down,

that

After

first.

toe

the

stock

over

The

best

method

and

paper

shoe

the

the

diagram

instead

of

the

to

the

the

on

the

vamp

it has
cut

paper

vamp,

rather

is

vamp.
on

out,
Mark

the

top

the

the

last.

the

tom.
bot-

hard
with

ball

follows:

as

cut

of

on

at

the

bring

"worked

be

to

been

the

show

sprung

fastened
of

it

pincers

hug

last

sides

less

the

the

and

last

to

all around

the

last

leaving

16, after

folding

the

bottom

edge

shoe

cutting
of

toe

pulls

cutting

large enough

by

17.

to

by

half

another

the

bottom

fullness

remedied

for

in

likely

forward

the

the

out

work

are

the

make

to

sole,

that

seam

diagram

much

wrinkles

shows

next

cut

in

has

except

over

back

i6.

all around

is drawn

it touches

the

on

highest
of

curve

diagram

and

stock

laster

as

it is pulled

tacks,

Place

so

be

may

so

the

of

just

line

the

at

for

See

be

straight

end

shown

as

is finished

stretched

This

below

at

is to

exactly duplicated

much

leather

the

inch

equivalent

vamp,
too

makes

16.

if

everything

and

Consequently,

of

shoe

shank.

lasting,

usual

whole

part

This

toe

at

"A"-"B,"

line

vamp,

it is lasted, and

in.

in

half

make

This

at

forward

vamp.

large quarter.

paper

gram
dia-

the

Draw

same

DIAGRAM

Fold

of

vamp

standard.

This

taken

around

back

standard,

vamp.

one-sixteenth

"B."

vamp,

will be

one-half

toe, "A";

on

of

finishing

point

going

top

point

of

mark

paper,

the

place

vamp,

curve

the

length

same

the

to

as

of

the

out

get

plain

piece

back

The

the

circular

VAMP.

in."
"

around

straight

piece
it,
line,

Boot

"A-B,"

drop

Score

D."

the

the

Patterns.

line, say

of the

front
paper

Shoe

and

DIAGRAM

toe

at

will

give

to

do

with

is illustrated.
the

draught

This
of

16

last

DIAGRAM

method

"C-

fill out

the

17.

by placing diagram
sufficient stock

to

inch

one-half

fold there; then

it will

so

19

on

the

well.

folded
In

line.

diagram

This

18

this

18.

one

shoe.

point has
Observe

great deal

that

the

to

wedge-

Designing, Cutting,and

20

piece,"W"

shaped

stock, besides

saving

in

course

this

lias

from

vamp

this

that

the

show

that it will probably

the

and

vamp

the

foot.
Referrinsr

lap

the

first place, the

stopping.

is for

will

always

must

the round

laps

vamp

does

corner

on

to

Diagram

20

the

line "B

dotted

diagram
stitched

the

lap

to

on

of

an

of

the amount

left

on

20

much

down.

The

over

that

when

better

foreman

shown
on

who

stock,

back

cover

so

it.

beading

of

account
has

fair fund

as

17.
toe

of

is

be

teenths
five-sixas

saving in

shown

The

being
common

to

harm,

no
a

ing,
foldthan

ready

just about

There

the

or

still more
and

it will do

cutting vamps
in diagram

in diagram

shown

for

will be

round,

of the

it.

cover

is folded

vamp

the

beyond,

bottom

as

It is rounded

quarter will

of leather

draws

the

on

the

or

wastes

over,

the

vamp

same

B."

In
out
with-

corners

bevond

sufficientlyto

quarter, there

the

inch

seam

when

18, but

corners

purpose.

the

injury,as

no

the

18, three-sixteenths,

double

upon

20.

quarter

shows

prevent

hard

the

how

by, or

cut

Cutting

DIAGRAM

while

It does

around

go

character

pressing

In

shoe.

cheap

i8, notice

it clear.

cut

to

corner

ted
lasting is omit-

of such

seam

of the

back

finished

the

from

This

cutter

One

up

difference.

no

off at "R."

rounded

be

diagram

to

are

will

make

quarter

in

Of

wrinkles.
the

if second

some

production

the

case

foot, and

last and

is likely to

throw

to

toe, effecting a

the
shank

preventing

tendency

from

is cut

"W,"

Grading

in diagram
upper
sprung
sense

Diagram

represents

23

to

corners

allowance

beading

folding.

or

agonally to prevent
that is necessary

lump

should

done

DIAGRAM

shoes

will not

room

The

of

the

cut,

are

have

so

that

occasion

and

back

seams,

the

line,"A,"

It is cut

ofif at

"C"

er
lowthe

di-

in

folding. All cutting

when
cutting room

in the

23.

the
to

operator
use

scissors

parts attending the folding of the

front

at

22.

forming

be

rounded

by dotted

stock, showing

save

for

foxing

DIAGRAM

the

Grading

Designing, Cuttins;,and

22

putting

the

in

the

stitching

judgment.
foxing, closing
foxings on and
and

Boot

staying the shoes,

be

should
the

to

necessary
there

lump
trim

to
a

that

say
will

with

be.

hand

do

foxings and

ings

the

back

of

seams.

smaller

the

the
The

Of

front

and

close

prevents

foxings

the

and

double

is

back

lapped

seam,

has

been

edge

cemented

This

is

properly adjusted.
the

presser

foot.

Referring

back

each

vamps

Use

back

many

staying

chine
ma-

way

after

the

out

towards

for

the

the

stay

of

all

at

one

deal

necessary

where

fox-

the

shoe

the

unless

if the

to

diagrams
the

test

saving

18 and

centre

the

toe

of

the

first

are

is

machine
the

strain

17, 18, 19, 20,

of

stock.

19, throw

of the

the

at

about

they

sharp feed, relieving

diagrams

wings, or

operation.

one

piece.
of complaint

not

the

the

down

quarter

staying

foxings

Also

stitch fox-

Next

seam.

the

again
and

cuttingvamps
vamp

is rubbed

good

25.

good

of

on.

less

allowed

quarters.

really strengthens

stitchingof the

on

of the

quarter

the stay being in

There

of the

foot

be

seam

ing
guid-

the

taken

harm.

gauge

hardly be

not

if the

seams

thickness

and

on,

for

seam

no

the

DIAGRAM

ing

machine

should

does

quarters, after which

through

It will

course,

allow

attention.

the

operator

23

rubbing.

the back

fold the

This

depth

staying,it

all the

Close

on

to

however,

manufacturers,

close

attached

shears.

little previous to

to

the

to

as

Patterns.

receive

sliould

permanently

work

Shoe

and

skin
the

cut

When

the wings
at

vamp,

every
or

of
portunity,
op-

any

Desiarning,Cutting,

24

of

corner

quarter, will

the

left from

stock

After

getting
with

corresponding
the

purpose

width

preventing
this flyto mark

fly.

first

lining

for

of

three-sixteenths

come

for
for

Point

the

inch

Use

button-hole.

mark

it

scallops, thus

two

the cloth

on

of

edge

in this

illustrated in diagram

as

place

as

lower

that

12,

place

"C."

and

flylining,which

the

represents

an

that

will

scallop

"A," "B,"

at

diagram
at

25.

back

is set

case

the front

around

fly being solid leather,

This

in diagram

of

height

leather,

line "A"

Dotted

"H,"

point

same

top facing,so

around

solid from

of the

of

the

vamp.

juncture of the first

ever
coming into the

the

it from

is cut

the

clean

almost

fly,prick through

of the

bottom

at

come

the

Grading
cut

lines, "L,"

the

having

the bottom

finish the

will

of

the

facing and

of top

ofif where
to

of

and

turn

throat
out

and

about

ed
illustrat-

lining, as

26.

DIAGRAM

26.

in the
inch seam
taking the regulation one-fourth
the
leather
set
being
so
back,
only
lining
fly
lining,
teenths
three-sixTake
the
inch
seam.
requires one-sixteenth
from
the
inch
sheep fly lining pattern, so that
will come
the curves
right.This gives line "B," diagram 25.

In

cloth

Then

cut
a

allow

in

bottom

be

Slip

shearing.
around

inch,

as

of

means

that

as

line "E

the

top dotted

far up
Prick

per

and

25,

make

through diagram

diagram

25, the

so

correct

F."

the
which
the
24
one.

26),and

from

line "F
had

lining
at

without

"D."

at

the

laid out

long
This

any

strikes

E,"

bottom

F," it will

been
too

"F

to

and

one-sixteenth

Add

Measuring

tor
opera-

front

the

get width

to

as

line, "F

E."

line "A"

until

the

give

to

as

in vamping

fly back

fly around

would

back

the

dotted

so

(see "D," diagram

thrown

line "B," diagram

mark

"D"

at

the shoe
fitting

guide
the liningto

hand
the

the

away

at

be
runs

that

gives

line

by

found
too

place.
"P,"

VI.

CHAPTER

In

diagram

/hich

is

cut

DIAGRAM

is

27

cloth

from

AND

KLV

BUTTON

FACING.

TOP

made

the

and

the

fly lining,
button

This

seam

"A,"

is

lining;

"snipe"

cloth

line

dotted

stitched

but

from

27

"B"

is

when

on

the

evenly
stitch

closed

30.

the

to

on

the

showing

DIAGRAM

cloth,

of

part

piece

hole

DIAGRAM

sheep.

front

leather

lap, and,

at

being

28.

the

front

reaches

the

at

edge

of

intersection

the

cloth
of

the

and

cloth

sixteenth
With
in

shown

leather

at

off from

the

28

diagrams
button

of the

fly and

leather

at

quarter

is cut

fullness

or

to

be

cheaper.

At

"B")

it is cut

seam

in the

the

that

seamed
the

at

By linings use

top of the

out

with

"A"

to

top facings, as

do

lining

the back,

enough
and

will

of

as

the
to

with

the

by
back

this

surplus

top facing
it will cut

means

facing (see

of the
the

tween
be-

32.

This

seen.

the

spring

necessary

away

match

and

large quarter

the

is sometimes

bottom

under

one-

point.

DIAGRAM

lining

but

29.

the

fly laid

that

at

above
and

28 shows

it will take

"D,"

bottom

the

either of the

Diagram
top

Grading

Desiafnin*'-,Cuttino;, and

26

one-fourth

absolutelyprevent

wrinkle

inch
in

lining at this place.

Diagram

29 shows

the

top facing for the small

quarter

Boot

it is shown

and

and

Shoe

plainly

so

Patterns.

further

that

27

explanation

is not

necessary'.

Diagram
very

few

the

edge

the

be

to

it will

causing
stitch

around

leather
to

edge

on

shown

sheep

the

front

fly.
of the

plainlythat
liningof

the quarter.

in

diagram 30,
in diagram

hole

cloth

lining.

The

words

piece

time.

The

operator

34

get
as

after

out

changes

are

made

In

in

In

using

it will be

whole

ry
necessa-

31.
shown

in

clear

placed

diagram
the

top

with

the

to

even

shows

the

29

style

With

and

so

fly

ing
top fac-

get out

to

necessary

another

The

33.

to

foxing popular

is

presented

line shows

dotted

to

at

assist

the

this
the

finished

34.

getting

similar

inch

FilXING.

is shown

folding.

standard

swing

unnecessary.

diagrams

POPULAR

folding it.

is

of cutting at "A"

way

30,

one-sixteenth

runs

diagram

seem

DIAGRAM

edge

cloth

this design it will be

to

is

facing

top

33.

of

diagram

diagram

to

"snipe"

patterns, according

In

"A,"

edge
top facing at "A,"
to
point, giving sufficient room

The

further

represents

the

taking the

DIAGRAM

of

line

and

style of fly lining is

button

fly lining.

of the

shown

as

still different
a

in

end

that

top facing

where

on.

at

flylining as

use

A
32,

the

Dotted

At

that

so

it.

lining,

the

lump

no

explain

stitched

reach

full all leather

cloth

fly lining

on

seam

will

of

supposed
out

represents

30

words

this

diagram

dissection.

or

any

12,

foxing,

other

except

in

so

far

CHAPTER

WHOLE-FOXED

OR

VII.

SEAMLESS

KLY

For
from

whole-foxed

diagram

diagram

back

and

quarter

and

seamless
in

except

Use

35.

be

by

the

lino

vamp

quarter.
both

on

"A,"

Then

draw

36,
the

back

End

the

cost

of the
it

the

vamp

eighths inch,
This
ol

the

much

would

be
so

to

reduce

last, but
to

as

cut.

throw

to

take

the

line

at

with

12.

as

not

the

gore

out

heels

and

35,

to

through

of

toe

vamp

"A"

to
at

toe

under

the

standard.

If the
ered,
consid-

be

least

three-

of the

vamps.

the

bottom

around
so

lap.
it in

"A,"

standard.

down

stock

find

of

toe

factor

of the

of the

and

fold,

of

lap

the

inch

the

draw

for

Cut

35

the

toe

drop

amount

the

of

mings
lining, trim-

"B."

"B,"

line

were

it

front

distance

diagram

length

well

diagram

one-sixteenth

on

cutting

the

diagram

usual

the

draw

same

in

vamp

would

standard

about

the

piece representmg

the

of vamp

line

and

the
line

out

w^hich

on

line

standard

dotted

the

"A,"

at

allowing

take

around

diagram
striking

and

number

35.

of vamp

"A,"

lines

Mark

back

in

as

standard

and

get

doing

so

used

DIAGRAM

Decide

to

12

for

fly can

AND

cut

vamps

dissection,

diagram

of vamp,

button

QUARTERS

LININf;S.

or

12,

CLOTH

VAMPS,

as

to

cost

too

Designing, Cutting,and

^o

tern

allow

to

little extra

the

at

Grading

shank,

shown

as

"K,"

at

diagram 36.
Of

the

course,

standard

diagram
to

of

vamp,
12,

as

the

obtained

small

Now

diagram

quarter
and

cut

23.

Use

from

that

the

to

cloth

vamp

DIAGRAM

gram

12.

Here

will

be

except

the
if intending

the

small

amount

on

use

38.

of diagram
fit

got from

are

circular

in the

DIAGRAM

quarter

this shoe

linings of diagram

35,

the

use

quarters

shown

of?

cut

equal

an

^y.

top shoe

foxed

linings

and

taken

as

shown
from

in
dia-

39.

the

advantage

of

large

liningpattern. A cloth top is fitted easiest when

the liningis fitted "snug," the top facingcut from
sheejiwhen
leather and sealpossible and the flylining cut solid from
and

small

Boot

This

loped.

shoe, and
it will

in

shown

general

also

cloth

get the

laying

the

it for

on

case

facing cut

top

the

beading

as

QUARTERS.

quarters, mark

from

foxing

ofT

leather

fit from, in which

to

allowing anything
38.

not

diagram

31

of fittinga

way

have

to

CLOTH

To

Patterns.

liningof top

the

necessary

shape,

proper

the

reverses

uses

be

Shoe

and

diagram

around

diagram

standard

13.

See

12.

gram
dia-

39.
Dotted

lines show

13

DIAGRAM

best

for

leather
inch

one-twelfth

add

shoe

Where
when

about

same

it is

small

matter

possible,use
from

where

quarter

the
at

or

one-eighth of
for the small

leather

the

as

the shoe
fitting
No

the

the

be

an

a'ready been

little over

the

fittingthis cloth top shoe, use

So figure that
in the leather top.

will

41.

one-

dividers.

the

When
used

in diagram

is considered

inch, has

diagram,

standard
with

here

quarters

seam

DIAGRAM

since

cloth, and

eighth incii

the

one-fourth

40.

in leather

allowed

where

Since

come.

of the

whole

fly lining,

button

lining.

of button
from

quarter has

linings

inside

shoe.

whether

fittingcommences,

end
inch

the

the

same

the

guide

on

fly,place the lining

edge
to

of the

place

at

cloth

side,
out-

the end

of

the

Cutting,

Designing,

32

lining
of

eighth
This

give

from

the

toe

the

of

will

FLY

To

diagram
this

the

get

which

40,

the

at

down.

The

thrown

back

costs

trouble

the
and
The

(see

41

fly

lining

This
been

"backed

from

the

"A,"

outside
is

See

be

dotted

the

is

fly,

cut

using

point

down

to

hold

to

39,
This

other.
is

and

curve,

the

be

to

diagram

the

to

the

runs

shears.

quarters,

high

it

lining

hand

cloth

from

away

the

as

the

on

as

allow

to

but

back

set

it

line,

firmer

cloth

less

while

cloth

"A,"
lining

line

with

fly
"A,"

fly

"A,")
in

dotted

(see

front

the

line

dotted

of

lined

lining

and

line

the

having

the

cloth

the

of

B)

fly.

scalloped.
the

describes

up."
leather

the

cloth

and

the

also

trimmed

not

of

inch,

is

the

aids

shows

"A,"

lines

facing

top

shoe.

on.

Diagram
inside

front

an

cut

also

the

three-sixteenths

one

to

It

cut.

closed

of

tops

than

one-

beading.

should

without

from

more

to

being

the

cloth

fly.

the

it

at

vamping

in

straight
no

of

about

to

in

leather

of

shown

that

cut

line

leather,

top

notch

Notice

are

of

of

out

round

way

inch

the

use

the

the

lining

the

LININGS.

three-sixteenths

lining

nothing

is
is

lining

fly

cloth

fly lining

Keep

all

an

fray

not

Grading

seam.

edge

one-eighth
cloth

the

so

of

back

inch

an

will

away

the

at

and

Cloth

patterns

fitting

proper
that
and

is

of

"backed

fitted

as

cloth

up"
leather

that

has

may
shoes

be

not

cut

are.

CHAPTER

WOMAX'S

cut

it get

diagram

will

to
to

42.

Use

the

reduce

this,

for

standard,
same

In

the

old

unless

the
from

Some

boots.

In

factory,
this

ished
fin-

leather

be

to

trying

Of

of

of

the

is to

it

probably

lasts

put

terns
pat-

the

on

is useless

to

of patterns

is

all

similar,

and

patterns

for

This

are

be

set

one

lasts.

while

general

same

cut

will

be

must

the

use

same

this

course,

there

make

to

the

factory,

that

of progress,

part

wrong

differ

forward.

him

24

the

and
six

it

of

these,

d:?ne

button

poorly
boots

the

fitting button
cost

never

all

proprietor

the

for

pair

will
is

work

pairs

of

one

cents

system

of

set

same

In

lasts.

that

factory

the

use

it cost

With

patterns.

styles

styles of
that

of

of

factories

different

equipping

shoe

day

method

body

is

toe

is less

leather, and

In

understood

the

this

balls

for

styles of lasts, but

different

many

stated

be

provided

last.

discuss

only

it must

different

the

there

last, as

made

quarter

number

the

saying

that

small

to

why

one

any

straight.

if cut

facings.

and

linings

to

It is easier

point.

by marking

and

12,

ton
but-

gipsy

42.

apparent

in than

hst

fit

be

BOOT.

vamp

diagram

use

DIAGRAM

It

BUTTON

beaded

dongola

time

save

GVPSV

VAMP

woman's

To

boot.
around

BEADED

DONGOLA

Next

VIII.

have

less
at

in
tnat.

been

Designing, Cutting, and

34

ripped apart
is

of

man

sewing,

or

the

factory turning
for cloth

patterns

and

vampers

patterns.
had

never

width.

If
wave

his

vamp

shoes

The

cut

them

long

not

without
ends
be

first
of the

done

and

fine shoes

had

by "sliding"the
all widths

factory cut

same

anything

women's

out

shoes, but
but

"A,"

shoes,

"C," "E," patterns

in

Is it economy?

DIAGRAM

manufacturer

in the business, and

try it.

not

leather

to

This

day.

one

tacking,as they call it,the bottom

the operativessaid it could
not

Another
no

in

and

quarters,
would

revamped

large experience

wanted

ago

and

Grading

factory has

many

certain

curve

or

43.

stylesof
top

lasts

is used

on

and

patterns and

many

of them,

to
set of patterns is correct
as
why not, if the top of one
in
standard
and
hold
out
that
to
as
a
width,
getting
height,
style last
other, or new
they are the same
styles,whether
be
the
another?
same
or
By this method
patterns can
bility
liaand
confusion
for
and
used
not only save
top facings,
If a few
in patterns.
of wrong
cutting,but expense
be
used on
be
cut
by mistake, they nmy
top facings
wrong
the next
of shoes callingfor the same
case
styletop.

and

Boot

Before
and

patterns
will be

diagram

30,

gives diagram
For

as

Small

to mark

12

is

vamp
of

curve

will

is folded.
from

the

Use

diagram
As

to

the

put

low, and

may

along
be

expert

must

of the toe
without

line "C"

dotted

under

way

the

front

up

by
line

it will be after the

edge

once.

linings and

be

trimmings

trouble

arises

large

put

on

the

by adding a little
instep line. Common

all systems,

willing to

of the vamp.

regard

and

since

Conditions
to

theory.

But

and

so

in

last

seam

is

the

ard
standmust

sense

conditions

Just

vary.

vary,

the

results

putting

the

little too

to

of

out

up

strike

quarters
where

buttons

their proper

rise

to

If

vamps.

from

vamp
the

the

seamless

or

far down

remedied

top

be

whole

where

closing,and

on

with

used

as

the

cause

below

instep. The
in first

used

get outline,

44.

little too

will

straight line just

the

use

Dotted

quarter

with

shoes

are

positions,they
at

small

44,

12.

button

buttons

fly

of standard

toe

quarter

all the

the line of vamp

represents

and

shown,

recognized at

be

DIAGRAM

"D"

cessful
suc-

which

12,

diagram

(see

small

is shown

quarter

in

around

of vamp,

of

front

which

lines

by

button

diagram

use

shown

as

back

line

back

representing the
vamp.

the

use

42,

vamp

button

and

44)

adopted

as

illustrated.

of

diagram

per

(see diagram
At

lasts

of marking

43.

half vamp

standard

and

oO

methods

some

fly for diagram

for back

and

Patterns.

work

numbering
get button

dotted

this

concluding

manufacturers
To

"A").

Shoe

an

dropping
must

the

ern
govbuttons

Designing, Cutting,and

36

on

in

be

relied

their correct

positionsis

under

on

few

about

closed," "stayed" and

the

on

the

In

the

outside

on."

The

good

that

trimmed

stead

sharp

turn

round

of

on"

ings,
lin-

the

to

factories

many

bottom

cases

of shoes

closing"

the

ing
scallop-

guide

no

her

on

for the

skill.

at

In

much

more

other

while

There
for the

wrong
do

is but
who

one

it

been

bottom

of the

shown

45, 46,

in

diagram

she
in-

45,

to

as

dififer-

the

of

the

has

Get

remedy.

one

another

accustomed

become

rarelyunlearns, and
correctly. Scalloping is done
done

scallop

47.

manner

Provided

make

to

scallops. But how often are seen

gram
scallopsall "saw tooth," like diacloser
the
on
entirely by
swinging the
side of the scallopsthan
rapidly on one
trimis stitchingand
the sewing machine

with

caused

47,
shoe

the

time, and

same

(see diagram 46

round

end

or

the

scallops,as

of

sort

ence)

has

is "first

shoe

"second

it is almost

at

DIAGRAMS

to

about

shape entirelydepends

and

sudden

very

to

first startfactories,if the operator has learned, when

ing
at that branch, to swing the shoe
in a steady,even
curve

will get nice

in

the

is "closed

following words

poorly

so

it is stitched

the

After

beading.

first place in

the

"closer

as

safe

scallops:

is done

such

positive rule, and

all conditions.

words

observe

Grading

so

the

for

many

it is

too

the

swing

almost

shoe

learns

never

carelessly and

years.

scallops have

shape in closing on,

to

on,"

"closer

an

not

easy

been
matter

thrown
to

all out

bead,

or

of

turn

CHAPTER

LACE

SIDE

THE

SHOE

"side-lace"

A
shoes

ever

lumps

of

foot, made

shaped

lady, for

on

BUTTON

undoubtedly

showing

kind

any

is

by

CLIMAX

AND

shoe

worn

IX.

are

the

neatest

buttons

no

sides, and

on

last, gives

proper

of

one

there

the

on

BOOT.

or

well-

splendid

appearance.

be

must

and

nearly

very

to

set

the

last is not

correct

form,

front

bad

up

foot.

well-shaped
if you

boot
well

the

Try

at

are

fit oi

actual

fails to

show

However,
one

is difficult
Mark

given

for

large

side

line, "A"

for
to

being

which

to

diagram

12,

shown

"A,"

cut

if cut

fit, and

being

in

lasts

with

their

the

nice
the

that

being

foot,

and

the

shoe

that

pattern.

If

it is

see

never

48.

it

draw
come

culiar
pe-

easiest.

First

48.

Then
have

the

right it

cut

not

directions

as

diagram

to

to

way

foot, it is

of

one

obtained

particular

It is

side-lace

the

diagram

this

on

call it

side-lace

ball.

shoe

right

demands

correct.

The

foot.

of

standard,
and

the

shoe

children's

the

on

this

your

of
and

back

defects

around

as

doubt

last

the

up

of

misses'

tons
but-

fit the

to

is

last

no

are

crooked,

This

is the

This

some

all in

try women's,

to

last.

shaped

is

The

48.

DIAGRAM

shows

shoe.

there

seam

is lost.

shoe

for

is left open

lacing
the

correct,

of this

peculiar beauty

in this

comes

in

if the

and

over,

trouble

the

is where

Here

were

get

the

the

lace

well

for-

Boot

ward

the

at

foot

at

quarter

for back,

This

will

where

B.

stab

off the

Lay

the bottom

bottom

shown

as

back

50,

holes

BACK

diagram

quarter,

the

bottom
B

standard.
shank
shown

and

mark

in the

add

shank

if for

of the

around

round

the

back

of

dotted

large sides

of

an

little more

welt

add

quarters,

the

on

diagram

lines

"A"

"A"

49.

diagram

for

McKay
(diagram 49) evenly
or

taken

as

for allowance
The

from
for

the

the

allowance

side
in-

is also

at bottom.

one-eighth
put

as

49, front quarter, and

it last easier.

diagram 48

Next,

back

the addition

shows
make

to

in

line

the

another

guide for the

lining position as "L,"

of which

DIAGRAM

show

under

for front and

QUARTERS.

front and

in both

the

on

go

"H."

facing as

the
in

to

laps

quarter

lap B

at

39

the shoe

quarter

AND

getting out

allow

top of the

of the

KRONT

In

out

Patterns.

back

the

Get

punching

vamper.
then

Shoe

bottom.

easily. Mark

front

and

48

inch

to

to

the

(see diagram 51) and

counter

as

all around

it, which

from

all around

leaves

B.

Put

on

front

and

toe,

dotted

line

ing,
get lin-

bottom;
take

front
and

"C,"

ofT

ter
quarmark
after

Designing, Cutting,and

40

which
way

cut

from

out

dotted

piece from

the

Hning

See

line "C."

DIAGRAM

One

piece of pattern

for the

shoe,

as

one

will

with.

that

Next

"^hree-sixteenths
"D

do

D."

for both
without

the

ings
lin-

hole, and

the

sides
the

of

51.

get side facing,which

diagram

each

50.

is cut

DIAGRAM

other

Hne

Grading

52 only need

be

is

so

shown.

simple

an

eration
op-

and

Boot

In

centre

stitch it

and

DIAGRAM

53.
with

Close
a

the two

pair

of

on

cut

the

the

as

41

hole

shown

in the
in

tre
cen-

diagram

52.

linings(drill)back

scissors

DIAGRAM

when

Patterns.

tlie liningwith

fitting
place it on

line in the

Shoe

and

top and

front,after which
bottom

open

at

53.

the

liningsare ready for the top facings. To

around
standard
top facing mark
diagram 48 from

get the
H

to

H,

Designing, Cutting,and

4-

"H

of

one-sixteenth
until

the

at

front

and

diagram

inch

an

at

back

top. B

C,"

"C

bottoms,

will fit the

which

liningseams
to

quarters

it is one-fourth

and

E,

get the ends

is closed

"climax"
Ne.xt

take

by marking
of the

button

in

shown

quarter,

boot, known

one

so

the

as

mencing
com-

side, and

so

upper.

boot.

standard,

that the

which

outside,

the

peculiar button boot.

diagram 12,

very

around

lining patterns

same

the

around

same

vamp

Commence
and
may

down

the

fit,using

55.

DIAGRAM

This

as

lining,after

the

of the side stay at

stitching till clear

up

on

by the edges of

on

at the bottom

the

Use

54.

top facing

stitch the

lining

front

inch,

an

back.

53.

Then

keep

of

at the front

DIAGRAM

the

diagram 54, pointing off

from
of facing.
Then
B, diagram 54, cut under

by hues "A A" on

H," diagram 48, for width

is shown

which
at

Grading

well

as

"Climax,"

as

is

trimming patterns.
generally cut from

is used
The
vamp
grain leather.
This
gives the quarter by drawing a
plain, not beaded.
Fold the padotted line "A."
indicated
line
per
by
as
straight

stock, such

heavy

as

"

and

cut

out

the

quarters,

as

illustrated

in diagram

55,

and

Boot

line

folded

with

"B,"

at

cut

If

the

is

shoe

not

placing

b}'
then

as

While

the

gore,

in

diagram

56.

familiar

56,

given

be

to

are

ooints

close

diagram

on

to

the

E
gore

pierced

E,

diagram

lining

on,

55,

56.

diagram
and

stab

that

so

better

folded,

stood
under-

diagram

and

12

it

where

folded

is

56.

The

12.

be

may

56,

diagram

is

paper

standard

on

DIAGRAM

shown

it

one

55

piece,

gore

43

"A."

diagram

the

placing

Patterns.

at

dotted

shown

Shoe

After

complete

holes,

in

as

fitting
the

they

correct

getting
as

any

the
button

C,

diagram
placed

are

spring
outside
boot.

to

is

so

fitted,

CHAPTER

WOMAN

Next

take

standard,

diagram

the

shoe

is divided

Of

course

common

of

bottom

foot,

but

point

the

into

front

being

and

easier

if it is too

low

beaded

will

we

58.

folded
of

60),

for

height
of

of top

gore

in cloth,

but

seams.

would

the

on

the

at

that

the

the

shoe

will

shoe

will

go

yield

"C."

standard
"A"

and

front

get

shows

the

inch.

It

allow-

57.

of

back

an

be

may

line

out

laying

is

congress

of

the

and

quarter

dotted

line, while

of shoe

The

the

off

"C"

shows

the

bottom

governed

more

of

the

or

less

the

kind, width

any

first considerations,

the

is

lap

(diagram

goring,
the

by

the

width

used.
is simple.
it is only

serge,

come

lower

line

one

congress
or

that

Dotted

getting
be

be

to

teach

the

of

must

after

This

in

In

edge.

goring

where

"B,"

dissect

shows

59

B, dotted

at

"A"

line

if desired.

top

Diagram
shown

mark

quarters,

three-sixteenths

folding,
on

which

worn.

diagram

for

around

back

the

DIAGRAM

ance

after

Also

57.

would
the

goring,

However,
quarter,

diagram

Mark

congress.

outline,

get

sense

again,

when

and

in

CONGRESS.

leather

12,

illustrated

as

gore,

LEATHER

woman's

X.

linings
a

little

can

One

can

to

necessary

almost

short

on

see

be
the

cut

that

add
from

bottom

to

the
the

and

it

make

difference

outsides,
would

be

CHAPTER

BUTTON

To

Mark
12,

of

be

from

make

roll

need

vamp

diagonally

of
be

to

at

"C

C";

the

D,

at

make

part

the

'"A";
method
the

also

method

small

diagrarn

A, is the

top

quarter,

outside

E,

the

at

B, cutting
inside,

over

61

(diagrams

to

of

comer

gradually

it

reaching

allows

one

an

illustrated

as

adopted
at

to

roll

to

be

finished,

back,

line

to

sequently
con-

6L

nmning

the

an

the

small
about

turns

62),

and

and

fly at "A,"

button
bead

even

because

the

continuous

bead

even

in

B, diagram

it reaches

when

is

at

at

shoe

the

as

the

to

necessary

at

B,

as

62.

diagram

This

rolled

long.

so

roll until

even

61, gradually
in

shown

inch

an

is

61, until

diagram
of

an

diagram

be

course,

Add

nothing

from

top

three-sixteens
then

line

high

DIAGRAM

quarter

instance

higher,

well.

that
be

not

inch

an

inches

look

to

up,

it should

Roll

this

Dotted

it will, of

top,

one-fourth

will

the

in

say.

lines.

the

straight top

12.

about

finished

by

with

6i.

standard,

TOP.

ROLLED

boot,

diagram

seen

diagram
To

off

See

WITH

button

around

will

as

allow

BOOT

illustrate

inside.

over

XI.

diagram

front

up

the

63,

until

ing
reach-

63, it is full roll.

lining

can

be

operation

closed
of

of

This
on

to

stitching.

Boot

and

Shoe

Patterns.

DIAGRAM

62.

DIAGRAM

63.

47

Designing, Cutting,and

48
Therefore
the

"closing on"

the

will be

regular evenly beaded

of beading is no
more

shoe.

work
the

header

better

work
the

of

do

can

with

much

than

Grading

expensive than
After being closed on
the
a regular even
bead; but
job at this shoe if she will
no

more

the

liningstoward her, for then

is
beading
being done.
By referringto diagram 6i, it is easy

rolling

the whole

on

or

she

can

follow

to

large quarter, then

the

on

on

under.

be

found

This
that

Springing
cut

the
as

to

there

fly,if one

chooses, may
it may

vamp,

still

be done.

cheaply by straighteningthat
except

end

of the

slightly

or

64.

they go under the

is plenty of stock

is where

it appear,

line

small

button

DIAGRAM

cut

the
the

fly.
It will be noticed at P, diagram 6i, that the
largequarter and flyliningto match, are dropped,
quarter, and

how

see

cause

way,
more

and

it will

remaining,
It will
and

no

tainly
cer-

jections
ob-

wrinkles

ly
Diagram 64 will show very clearrespectivetops of large quarter and flyas to roll top.
Referring again to diagram 62, the heavy line all
round
is the button
flyproper, while the dotted line is the
back
the cloth liningin front at C C,
on
flylining,setting
and coming out flush with the top face liningat D.

at

the

the

throat

of the shoe.

Boot

While
to

of

though
in

solid

shoes

shaped

tops

where
But

would

one

the

know

button

on

of

the

"can't"

word

work

good

on

roll

at

in

They

tops.

room

make

the

lines

the

lining

again

the

and

round

cut

three-eighths

for

the

it
The

"C

top

A
C."

seamed

top

of

The

and

an

standard

down

who

man

did

not

sisted
in-

simply

had

become

perts
ex-

finish.

neat

L
of

the

61,
an

that
will

facing
it

shows

one-fourth
for

of

ing
mark-

by

Recollect

top

inch

where

edge

top

or

61.

than

diagram

H,

and

obtained

facing,

so

of

at

see

narrower

as

front
of

even

be

drawn
of

an

inch

allowance

to

quarter.

on

top

of

impossible.

He

help

diagram

one-eighth

the

height

the

the

inch

standard

and

is

A,

rolls

of

of

allowance

where

of

of
and

outside

the

top

61,

gives

bottom

standard

the

the

round

This

drawn.

are

kinds

65.

diagram

to

men's
wo-

successfully,

very

DIAGRAM

Referring

making
all

department.
his

tops,
results

get

can

Maine

was

finally

able
prefer-

roll

practically

was

his

and

of

it is
on

factory

rolled

are

fitting

the

one

large

State

it

that

say

help

boots

suppose

foreman

the

the

49

fly Hning,

napa,

At
in

to

proper

or

cases.

specialty

Patterns.

educating

unexpected

most

it is

sheep,
by

course

Shoe

point

this

on

use

and

shown
The

B.

facing

on

is

fold

D.

diagram
of

top

65
is

is

marked

dotted

line

CHAPTER

XII.

FRONT

Front
take

lace

dongola

diagram
Then

66, begin

slightly

to

be

well

wearing

few

to

as

the

at

open

made

when

The

so

but

pattern

cutter.

cut

with

separate

laster

is in
on

Thus
is then

lacing.

held

Shoes

correctly, or
the

fastened

pattern

shoe

laced
is cut

low

more

or

after
at

the

to

correctly, are
right.

It is

that

it is

back

to

them

their

too

the
gether
to-

being

they

cannot

their

normal

the
to

lasted.
trouble

whole

with

pleasure

asking

of

properly

the

laster
a

fact

laces

be

where

the

rule

find

to

by

fixed

that

cannot

responsible,
coming

it

no

the

previous

being lasted,
a

the

from

closely together

so

with

determined

fitter who

the

kind,

some

sufficientlywhile

condition.
The

them

draws

lasted,

of

cord

to

gradually

Often

top.

foot,

stretch

and

opinions

is directed

quarters

the

together

be

must

away

various

are

also

open

66.

cut

Attention

the

to

up

to

There

the

on

away

vamp

amount

given.

be

can

the

will
closer

be

on

foot

the

draw

diagram

it may

that

shoe

it will

boot.

in

it is first put

DIAGRAM

lacing;

shown

as
so

button

to

standard,

high instep, by leaving

lacing.

times

of

accommodate

to

fit

around

lines
vamp,

it is best

course

Mark

front,

the

away

C.

the

of the

lasted, and

it must

instep, as
less

cut

when

back

the

at

give

of

and

say

will

which

12,

SHOES.

next

come

McKay,

starting

since

shoes

LACE

buttons

last, provided

much

of the

Boot

laster to
handles

try
the

less trouble

to

remedy
before

shoe
between

Shoe

and

fault caused

it reaches

the last'ersand

themselves,

faults,unnecessary
be

could

avoided

by

boot, and

entirelyby

line L

some

There

him.

shows

roll

bottom

of top

top of standard

proper

if these

avoided, and

were

attention

the

top and

they

those

to

two

line of

front

top edge of lining,while

shows

The

dotted

boot.

This

facing.
button

be

would

DIAGRAM

curve

who

one

their employers

important points.
line "A," diagram 66, shows
Dotted
button

67.

DIAGRAM

two

Patterns.

also straight top.

For

the

line B
lace

we

lining,see

shows

68.

the

will make

diagram

67, and

far

so

the bottom

as

the

they resemble
is the

which

line

same

inch

from

near

the

top, C,

with

the

hand

There

bottom,

to

about

the

back

line

the front

as

shears

the

of the

end

liningwill

the

so

after the

front

but

left loose.

and

the shoe, and

be

to

facing is

Notice

slit,E,

the

the

part
This

marked

will enable

the vamper

until

cut

away

stitched

necessity of its going

the hand

to

shears,and is

lower

the

should

stitch

on.

the

operator

the

run

to

of
the
ofif

through

stitched

not

a neater

end

stitching

In

throw

to

at

68.

"close

on"

liningwithout
"table girl" to be cut in
and less expensive way
ready for the top facing.
back

liningsare closed at the back

diagram 69, in which dotted line "A"
facing line; "B" shows where the quarter
See

at

quarter

an

70.

facing, see diagram

the
lining the
facing on

at

The

of

guides, one at the top and the other at the

place the front facing correctly. The toe seam
inch
above
the
end
of
one-eighth of an

front

the

facing,
diagram 66.

one-eighth

have

not

In

boot.

the front

two

quarter.

front

considered,

are

button

of standard
about

away

bottom

DIAGRAM

the

Grading

liningof the
front edge of

it is cut
the

near

are

runs

shows

observe

However,

and

lines of the

front the line "A"

with

and

Designing, Cutting,

52

the

shows

the

is folded

top of

and

line

is

the

by

facing

best

not

to

of

cut

it

will

in

cut

just

the

in

quarters

the

on

skin

to

facing
add
the

full

pattern,

the

floor,

be

cut

it,

and

quarter.

as

then

the

fold

be

plain
the

girl

edge.

edge

stock

as

cutter

he

as

way

before

has

instead
it

cut

Diagram

else.

something

to

cutting

The

this

surplus

table

the

operator

labor,

hour

chine
ma-

will

72.

then

where

into

cut

so

and

the

hand

an

the

on

needed.

saves

It

shears.

allows

is

DIAGRAM

in

hand

rt

having

and

knife

which

pattern

many

as

with

as

material

away

down

trimming

purpose,

away

Grading

way

away

use

this

for

this

cut

to

the

all

edge

girl"

"table

and

Cutting,

Designing,

54

If

fold

putting

off,
72

is

wanted
the

is

of

ing
be-

in

the
the

shows

simply
facing

on

CHAPTER

CLOTH

Diagram
and

on

fold

on.

it

Of

course

this

in

the

shown

of

all around.

fold

facing

on

cloth

at

the

bottom

line

After
or

vibrating

becomes
on

the
with

closing

flat

anvil

necessary
her

the

on

ones

accustomed

with
amount

fingers.

V"

or

for

the

before

ing
be-

"A"

presents
re-

dotted

as

line

the

front

of

is the

front

of

facing.

Line

represents
"C"

73.

is back

the

of

foxing edge

it goes

top

fingers

it,she

can

irons

for

the

to

or

do

irons

Steady,
far

are

and

more

the

be.

header.

After

turning,

are

will

irons

no

by manipulating
Turning

with

line

well

as

all straight work.

to
no

Dotted

Line

"D"

where

iron

non-movable,

than

Line

folded

foxing,

facing

"

it is folded.

shows

be

quarter
"

for

cut

front

position.

Dotted

finished.

when

quarter

should

facing

DIAGRAM

facing

SHOES.

leather

patent

the

before

cloth

its present

front

WELT

AND

QUARTERS

represents
"]"",

is

placed

XIII.

for

an

operator
work

better
she

outside

suitable

better

where

can
or

roll

lining
punch-

is

required,and
work.
straiglit

ing out
on

use

outside.

the

outside

Do

The

operator

if the

patterns

them

by

and

the

"table

shoe

beaded

no

fronts

are

hardened

at

closing on,
facing on, it must

left extended

In women's

facingsis used,
table

The

girls,who
shoe

put

in.

will

be

is

where

there

is

trim

out

ready

now

of

be

facing

"fitting"

be

used

saved,

the

and

has
the

up

have

folded

lining front

afterwards

to

except

inside

be

to

here.

74.

way
the

glue

If the shoe

too soft material

no

front

trouble, and

use

folded, or

and
little,

shoes

no

can

stitched

be

the

will thus

that place.

if it be

but

DIAGRAM

facing be

is

cement

the

to
or

expense

knife

trimming

front, the

or

stitclied to
to

or

outside

the

correctly,there
girls." That expense

is not

be

to

are

paste

extra

no

no

paste

or

linings along

cement,

of

are

beading. Simply
given by trying the

operators

cut

when

outside

they
the

stitches

who

or

of I'oll is

no

correctly at

them

cement

any

turning

the

to

Use

facing.

or

can

not

Grading

work, but they

use

allow

quarters

stay,

hold

not

in

facingswhere

of the front

curves

the

Do

f("r-aniount

the gauge

and

turn,

crooked

on

substance

adhesive

otJTcr

sheared

for inside front

let the shoes

facingwith

hand

after the

vamped

off.

to

go

shears.

eyelets

are

By cutting the patterns according to this direction, it

the lining
found, when
to vamping, that
come
you

is ready to be
close

vamping
then

stitch

tongue,
to

and

Designing, Cutting,

56

back

the toe

(on the

thicknesses.
the tongue,

the

which

the

the

at

tack
will

the strain, if any,

liningsin

point

clear

hold

the

across

of the

end

shear

hand

no

of the

machine)

lump
Tlien

and

seam

little below

reduce

while

thrown

of

lower

end

juncture

the

tongue

will come,

if the

of

of the
serves

so

quarters

in proper

tongue

and

seam,

This

quarters.

througii both

After

work.

lap

is

many

and

position,
pulled up,

and

Boot

of

end

the

on

the

Shoe

Patterns.

it is stitched

where

tongue

57

the

fast to

lining.
The

getting

similar
dwell

woman's

to

upon

back,

of all is called

back

ball
on

the

to

Notice

in

which

so

often

the

throat

doing, mark

last does

your

Rather

for

while

and

mould,

"\'"

where

about

Another

calls instep
after

high point in

if that

see

to

of these

cause

straight.

your

foot.

wrinkles

the

last maker

on

standard,

place

One

too

shoes

is called

last carefully,and

your

last

your

come

strange

where

your

not

made

the

spring heel last,

represent

misses.

by

place

obtained

have

spring heel

position, of

measuring

is often

your

the

far

too

It is suggested,

Attention
from

taken

worn

curve

Mould

is the last.

lines

foot.

13-E

in shoes

too

measure

and

pair of side lace

fairlywell shaped

on

the

on

was

heavy

seen

is that the

you

seam

74, which

make

to

try them

then

front

the

diagram

so

heel, is

last, and

the

much

try the shape of the last from

to

way

However,

large heel

of the last.

measure

to

necessary

patterns.

by

so

of the last governs

very

shoes, caused

called, instep

also, that the best

the

to

seem

measure

boot

of button

in misses'

so

not

the ball

is

kind

of any

shoe

it does

course

measure

the attention
seen

misses'

that

Of

it.

the ankle

often

of

out

is in diagram

74.

instep.

an

WKLTS.

making

In

welts

except
round

vamp
the outside

which

should

McKay.
save
3-16

of

nothing.

In

for

getting
make

turn

curve

leg
may

look

shoe
all

shoe

empty
when

right

the

to

much

the

to

top,
If too

one

the

curve

be

foot.

the

heel of the foot working

be

much

crowded
shoe

the

words,
of

the

that

curve

top of the

leg of the

much

romided

sharper
If

up.

similar

substance

curve

the

will

in tire

back, it will result

some

and

up

in the

pattern.

is then

of the

in back

curve

ing
lastof the

heel

foot

will

leg

of the

down,
of

act

leg
and

the

somewhat

the

shoe.
on

clear

have

on

in
will

foot

In

other

the

ciple
prin-

bellows.

In such
and

back
on

or

see

the

not

ankle

ably
consider-

heel

the

out

the

when

eye

cotton
can

exclusively

leg

by the hand, will be

up

with

sharper

i)uts in the

one

will cost

welt, for in second

or

last stretches

foot, for the

is stuffed

shoe

in

than

is drawn

the

on

McKay

of the

can

one

vamp

of the

back

at the

as

same

if

vamp,

Kay
Mc-

the

the

pattern entirely and

for

heel

results

and

of the

up

the

out

the

straighter than
a

of the

quarters,

fit on

stock, the patterns for the welt

"turns,"

upper,

on

require about

outside

the

around

the

it is to

since

will

the shank

quarters, and

lap

the

near

all

3-16 smaller

about

be

coming
McKay,

as

it is,

pattern, just as

McKay

should

until

be left

But

use

which

the

case,

carries

the

the

foot

is

reallytoo
forward, leaving the heel
shoe

ward,
far forof

the

foot

moving

hning

and

lining

after

worn

from

can

trifles

and

up

metal,
then

It

the

profit

is

though

even

alter

has

shoe

through.

If

out.

the

on

shoes

idea

the
if

vamp

worn

good

comes

be

while,

the

little

heel
heel

the

set

too

nowadays.

you
all

cut

to

of

rest

it

the

examine

you

been

Grading

wearing

thus

down,

stocking
the

and

Cutting,

Designing,

58

be

will

of

the
it

find

patterns

vamp

bound,

large,

the

of

and

one

as

it

is

by

CHAPTER

MCKAY

XIV.

roll,

take

McKay,

top.

boots.

button

Mould

the

get

the

it is

heel,

not

vamp,

same

for

as

in

low

75.

attention

pay

high shoes,

in

as

the

carefully, though

last

to

necessary

standard

DIAGRAM

cuts

circular

oxford,

dongola

First

dropped

or

AND

QUARTERS

LININGS.

CIRCULAR

Next

FOXED

VAMP,

CIRCULAR

OXFORD,

boots.

or

the

to

of

height

floor

line

next

cut

is not

necessary.

After

front

the

on

having got
the

drawing

allow

to

the

low

the

shoe

See

lacing.

Next

lay off the

front

of

ofif the
of
if

diagram

the

possible,

by ending

75,

seems

the

of

the

"C,"

lacing,

top
to

seen

whole

prevent

Then,

allowing lap, lay

foxed

shoe

at
or

"B,"

advisable
back
a

or

75.

is

desired

foxing, then, allowing lap, lay ofif the

It

it,as

If it be

If

quarter.
at

for

open

under

76.

line.

vamp

quarter.

of the

top

diagram

the

be

to

DIAGRAM

the

standard,

cut

of

lump,
in

seamless

the

to

shoe

which

diagram
vamp,

end
as

ofl

lay
tom
bot-

foxing,

shown

is always

in

caused

76.
it is generally

best

Desi^ninff,Cutting,

6o

it be

that

diagram

to

from

finished

the

diagram

as

be

beaded

how

diagram

stock

WHOLE

same

with

front.

Diagram

points "A"

"B."

to

prevent

to

assist the

outside

where

quarter

allowance

for

as

will
the

to

operator

it. "C

give two
facing in

at

"H."

to

cement

Some

edge

has

foremen

the
been

out

got

on

folding, as

79

the

the

stock

of the

in

will be

seen

C"

shows

Notice

is cut

serves

At

on.

with

folding

or

quarter.

quarter

the

the

from

out

beading

It also

stitchingit

got

as

the

away

guide

front

allowance

the
for

78.

the line of the quarter

cut

away

cutting,and save all hand shearing. It

positiveguides D, E, for the operator to place
the rightposition;also a guide will be noticed

stock

save

for

fox

shows

DIAGRAM

so

is

line "A"

77.

thickness.

lacing facing

foldingon

allowed

whole

the

double

foxing
dotted

QUARTERS.

shows

standard
in

on

78

the

ence
Refer-

75.

foxing.

DIAGRAM

Diagram

diagram

The

75.

the

represents

jj

this is to

will show

jy

standard,

"C,"

at

seen

Gradins;

and

in

or

outside

insist

forewomen

stay

to

folded, to assist

the
the

that

quarter
operator

it is necessary
after
in

the

front

stitching it.

8i

Diagram
in

front.

These

lining

quarter
at

Referring-

"

"P."

foxed

diagram

to

and

tained
ob-

the

with

notice

75

fold

straight
of

ending

back

the

the

cloth

of the

on

lines

leather

lining

toe

"P."

DIAGRAM

This
there

is

is the cheap way

an

inside

in diagram

seen

which

may

"A"

be

the

to

quarter

front
hand

lacing

as

the cloth

seen

the

line

line of the

of

the cloth

from

the
throw

table
the

of

and

lining as

course

be

may

facing,and diagram 83, in

liningwith the facingattached.
facing as finished, while "B"

standard; "E"

in to

got

is cut

shearing or
glue used on

line the oxford,

is the

DIAGRAM

the

81.

lacingfacing on
82, which

represents

represents

or

quarter

the

represent
"O"

at

results

by

factory.
the

shows

himself

for

matters

individual

in each

"'O"

such

decide

must

one

Grading

and

Desi^nin^, Cutting,

62

work.

is the

of

point end

83.

"D"

standard,
back

the

There

lininganywhere.

is

where

liningwithout

should
There

be
is

the
any

no

cement

no

use

for

any.

the

the quarter liningand it is got

Diagram 84 shows
which
gives dotted
quarter by marking around,

from
line

and

Boot

"A."

Now

much

less

for McKay

counter

be

"C"

line

dotted

and

top

sewed.

the

is the

line

This

be

of the

shows, but, of

cloth

liningmust

down

on

"D"

at

the

top
for

should

work

dotted

line

line "B"

front

the

form, for instance, as

in such

course,

be

line "B"

and

quarter.

in any

cut

require

down

under

show

over

84.

standard, and

front

line may

line "C"
of the

of the

line of the

it will

Drop

on

cut

will

85

DIAGRAM

"A,"

turned

liningfor turn

differently. Diagram

cut

shown

then

back;

at

be

course

lining.

of the

three-sixteenths,as

about

ahead

the

at

63

is to

quarter

fitting,of

in

three-sixteenths

about
so

outside

the

as

Patterns.

Shoe

made

the

case

ted
dotback

correspond.

to

DidJs

DIAGRAM

The
the
or
comes

that
and

cut

corner

liningto
table
to

would
under

work,

where
be

be

out

at

"D"

tihe end

it is vamped.
there

the vamp.

if the

is for the

back

thrown
as

85.

without

of the
This

quarter

hand

any

lining quarter

also takes
was

It is best to add

of allowing

purpose

out

beaded

along

ing,
shearat "E"

the lump

clear

the front

down

edge

Designing,

64

of

the

lining,

quarter

project

the

from

afterwards.

quarter,

is

with

hand

is

too

be

edge

stock

trimmer

to

in

the

by
shows

the

be

fit the

and

stay

the

from

the

top;

cloth

(c)

stitch

the
the

around

(e)

roll

the

(f)

fingers;

to

the

the

on

all
the

lining

cloth

quarter,

tacking

stitch

close

and

vamp

top

of

to

through

prevent
the

the

be

can

and

it

trimmed

standard

off

to

the

mark

toe

much

quarters

the

lining.
inch

three-eighths
so

the

machine,

of

of
and

ters
quar-

inch

linings;
(d)

linings;

to

down

the

quarter

quarter
on

and

seam

the

of

the

close

three-eighths

stay

seam

quarters

round,

(a)

trouble

least

beading

If

successfully.

lining

heel

linings

cloth

top

the

the

close

lining

86.

stopping

(b)

lining

quarter

it

line.

with

them,

or

machine.

dotted

shoe

used

away

the

out

the

course,

DIAGRAM

To

in

used

trim

outside,

trim

to

it

let

to

as

to

the

on

way

of

then,

quarter,

86

seen

the

so

quarter

facing

practical

for

on"

Diagram

beaded

inch,

outside

the

only

the

"closing

be

be

allow

to

plain

will

of

shears,

soft

in

it

Grading

and

one-eighth

about

front

If

beaded

off

Cutting,

lump

tongue.

linings;

quarter

using

no

front;

then

Stitch

the

ahead
at

of

close

the

vamping

turning
eyelet,
tongue
end

of

point,

XV.

CHAPTER

To

make

quarter,

ing

at

operator

one-twelfth

about

allow

inch,

should

be

laced

slightly

that, having

piece

of

iron

when

lacing

all open
or

wood

the

shoes

Diagram

87

Diagram

88

shows

alike,

plug

is to

styles.

linings

all oxfords

they

are

for

all the

Diagram
marking
of

of

use

curve

the

same

set

just

the

they

lasted

best

to

way

wedge-shaped

facer's

and

bench,

wedge.
fit the

to

which
Use

vamp.

be

on

cuts

the

ings.
lin-

same

cheaply.

very

linings

same

in

as

88.

as

used

well

to

have

on

the

same

but

of

set

one

last, provided

outline.

shows
and

vamp

to

same

89

around

It is

the

oxford

neat

another

the

provide

to

DIAGRAM

preceding

quarter
close

can
are

Probably

around

circular

oxfords

the

87.

open.

lace

of

top

Hn-

the

on

operator

the

fastened

shows

It is called

the

so

DIAGRAM

do

the

of the

corner

outside

the

on

Before

knife.

trimming

close

may

and

operation,

one

lining
with

the

so

the

round

oxford,

bead

even

an

OXFORD.

BEAD

EVEN

AN

as

of

another

through
at

style of oxford,
standard

diagram

diagram

89 "B,"

lining patterns.

obtained

so

that

75,
one

at

by
line
may

Grading

Desioning, Cutting, and

66

cutting this style,(diagram 89), you

In

If
diagram 90, for half vamp.
"A," (diagram 90), it will give

the

DIAGRAM

lacing facing cuts

leather

or

nice

very

diagram

91

cheaply, and

very

style.
and

"D,"

piece of

The

as

inch

to

diagram

In

diagram

prevent

89, the

should

shows

thickness

much

inserted

by putting a piece of
(diagram 89) it makes

under

it is cut

91,

too

line

on

this the

the

be

edge

cut

as

of the

90.

DIAGRAM

facing.

vamp.

In

insertion

line "A"

dotted

folded

to

89.

in the vacancy,

cloth

be

paper

whole

referred

are

piece is

shown

one-eighth

about

at

lacing edge.

all round

In

by dotted

lines.

91.

DIAGRAM

get the facing in diagram 89 spring up

To
Cut

using

pattern
it

as

from

guide

the
in

hole

"D,"

fitting.

as

shown

in

justenough.
diagram 92.

XVI.

CHAPTER

SOUTHERN

NEWPORTS,

Diagram
instep in its
a

to

is

There

men's

The

buttoned

or

the

tongue

sprung

up

in

so

as

edges
front

to
at

shoe

together
in

"A"

of

draught

down

at

into

by

position

gores

^^

be

obtained,

the

heel

show
be

so

there.

of

from

is in

piece,
Use

only

of

being

Just

direction
be

only

get

be

stitches
draw

line

the

up

The

point.

cut

the

make

to

that

so

the

the

r\-"-

instep

not

few

that

at

right

should

curved

curve

could

simply

the

badly

which

"B,"

and

fitted.

give

the

congress

beside

would

foot.

the

on

132.

DIAGRAM

draw

adapted

be

can

instead

gore

gore

being

with

-"^

"

would

by

line

on

the

it will

cut

gore

If

instead

is shown

is easy

and

hand.

while

and

are

the

the

"A"

together

fit well.

gore,

by

130.

shows

131

hold

if the

down

fitting.

Diagram
whipped

"D"

It

folded

DIAGRAM

throws

gore

shoe.

shoes,

being

whole,

is cut

vamp

this

children's

or

wear,

The

the

represents

forced

being

hard.

to

It

cut.

without

too

lacing

no

low

position

correct

tight lacing

"A."

represents

130

CUTS.

LOW

AND

TIES,

to

leg
so

just above

hard

drawing
heel,

an

be

would

far
the

easier

gently

forward.
vamp

across

The
at

the

the

ankle,

fittingshoe
forced

back,

wrinkles

back

could

would

and

which
not

Designinc^,Cutting,

6S

Diagram
so

fit

to

as

shows

132

the

vamp.

line

"A"

shows

133

the dotted

the

135

shows

folded

at

Diagram
cut

this shoe

diagram
will

be

to

sheep

the

one-half

before

fold at "E,"
cement

or

the gores.

the gOre

close

130),one

the
row.

should

it is fitted.

then

to

put gores

glue, and

out

be
The

the

patterns

added
first

lining,

at

"E,"

operation

in where

long,
they be-

taking diagram

132

to

135.

lettingthe cement
edge of the leather
Next

lining,dotted

drill vamp

getting

After
to

sheep,
opening of

piece.

of the

inch

DIAGRAM

mark

gore

134.

three-sixteenths
fold

tongue

of the centre

In

130,

using

the

from

the line of the

"A."

to

liningcut

quarter

DIAGRAM

for

mark

133.

line shows

Diagram 134 shows

A
showing the edge

it being

to

correctly.

Diagram
at

Gradino;

used

pattern

DIAGRAM

and

and

close

tongue

set, stitch around

H

gram
(dialining to quarter

from

to

and

Designings,Cuttinsr,

70

button

ary

boot; in fact it is only

Gradino;

the

lower

part of

ton
but-

boot.

Diagram 96 is a "Southern
(1897) on the Pacific coast.

shoe

tie"
This

DIAGRAM

shoe
no

fit,and

to

table

yet

unusual

in pattern

purpose

of

if the

easy

it is sometimes

The
on

called

sewing

as

necessary

beading
of

must

that

on

peculiar

correctly, and

all the

propositions

in this work

uncalled-for

DIAGRAM

popular

very

is cut

pattern

cutting, advised

obviating the

is rather

95.

will notice

You

work.

and

"table

for the

are

or
fitting,"

as

considered

as

96.

"pasting," formerly

machines.
this shoe
what

necessitybe

where

the

is termed

lining is

"even

stitched

cord,"

as

the

J/q.?7.

DIAGRAM

ear,

where

the eyelet holes

shape precludes
is got
and

as

usual

lap; then

tongue

must

such

from

the
not

be

result.

the
tongue
too

are,

97.

will not
The

admit

standard, diagram 96,

last, after which

and

far to

lay out
The

quarter.
the

of roll. Their

rear,

or

the

line

vamp

back
shoe

of

the

will be

and

Boot

difficult to
shown

get

diagram

on

foot.

the

on

Shoe

Patterns.

from

with

tongue
is
to

standard,

the

no

the

the

Hne
in

seam

Hues

desired, better

the

is

vamp

98.

one-half

shows

98

of

97.

DIAGRAM

Diagram

outHne

The

71

tongue

be

Where

secured

obtained

as

This

fold.

being the

it.

can

the

seam

up

by cutting

is for

the

front

the

front

desired.

curves

i)/a yf.

DIAGRAM

lastinga

When

laster put

of the tongue,
holds

its

little
as

whole

paste
it then

southern

"tongue

in

between

dries

to

the
the

tie,"have

outside

shape of

and
the

the

lining

last, and

better.

curves

DIAGRAM

Diagram

99.

99

shows

the

100.

with

quarter

the

lines

vamp

dotted.

Diagram
the drill,and
the vamp.

100

the

shows
standard

one-half
in dotted

the

vamp

lining cut

lines shows

how

to

for

get

Diagram
manner

for

the

this

the

margin

place

fitted

be

to

it is

hning

in

cut

for the

will

by

on

such

of

leaving plenty

room

be

seen

of allowing

purpose

in.

preferable to
Stitch

first.

lining

vamp

Grading

close

to

in at "A"

It is cut

top.

quarter

through,

vamp
The

tongue

In
to

to

counter.

the

the

shows

loi

not

as

the

around

on

and

Designing, Cutting,

72

stitdh the
the

lining

tongue

lining on

tongue

to

^iCL.lOl.

DIAGRAM

the

the

tongue,

taken

not

quarters

to

the

Bead

loi.

the

stitch

to
on

tongue

the

stitch

the

vamp

down

loi,

two
to

the

the

fitting as

same

make

is

quarters,
the

buttons.

as

button
It

must

one

fly, and

being

Stitch

the

slit "A,"

gram
dia-

the

to

on,

leaving

the

quarter

vamp

lining

to

bottom.

102.

"Southern

"Southern

the

to

the

being

care

vamp,

lining.

vamp

stitch

quarters,

diagram

102

the

lining down

quarter

DIAGRAM

Diagram

of

front

through

the

"A,"

the

to

lining loose, then

lining from

101.

button."

tie," except
be
the

circular

long enough
other
vamp

the

It is about
the

is short,
makes

shoe
to

ing
requir-

fold

so

as

only taking
it cut

er.
cheap-

CHAPTER

STRAP

Canada,

and

seem

to

the

last

Oxford
A

shoe

last

is not

last

shank

be

for

done,

over

with

feed

well.

good

work

The
and
closer

be

on

good

should

outside

last

fitting a

dal
san-

it

then

edge,

in

in the

which

in

of

is out

bottom,

along

was

ing
turn-

date

edge

binder

that

see

is

operator

than

the

on

the

work

and

quite

gives
ance.
assist-

an

accurately,

very

needle

the

machine

does

nicely

very

fit the

to

necessary

the

one

the

spring

in

cylinder sewing

and

top

moves

binding

it will

on

down,

at

bottom"
some

way

clined
in-

136.

on

However,

results.

so

be

binder"
both

at

The

An

improvements

crude

other

the

especially

points

been

it fast

stitching

"English

on

foot.

should

judgment

the

and

stitching

depends

"rocker

of the

DIAGRAM

An

and

have

There

in

shoes

cut

the

on

sandal

real

proper

One

binding,

fit

shoe

on-e.

slippers, a

used.

by

and

its

bottom,"

with

deal

good

to

as

low

wear

fitting strap

"rocker

"binding."

formerly
it

good

though

mechanism

on

favorite

very

who

correct

"opera"

may

is the

the

other.

any

SLIPPERS.

been

ladies

is made

the

for

while

to

make

to

is required,
the

this

OPERA

has

Canadian

this

toward
toe;

Sandal"

most

prefer

AND

SANDALS

"Strap

one

XVII.

sews

side

under

little

of

the

binding.
Another

part

Some

fitters

then

trim

hand

shears.

outside

with

machine
the
seam

the

out

of

the

fittingon

paste

the

lining

the

edge

better

binding.
When

the
in

the

Some

strap
same

is

in

lining

of

the

lining

cut

knife
the

pieced
both

in the

ing.
lin-

edge,

to

outside

this

place

in the

the

trimming

factories
is

putting

nearly edge

stitch

to

stitch, using

coarse

piece

sandals

to

It is usually

before

outside.

of

with
to
on

the
the

lining by
brings

lining

the
and

Designing, Cutting, and

74

place it
or

the lump

reduces

low

in fact any

lacing,buttons
pincers in
shoe

cut

or

is difficult to make
cuts, and

low

if making

way,

or

behind

the

buttons

until they

on

to

before, the laster is liable

on

136

Diagram

Just
as

at

shows

whole

"A"-"B."

diagram

The

the sides.

It is

Another

vamp,

try

pieced,
separate (sea

afterwards

line "A."

at

the

on

vamp.

cut

136

Diagram

This

it

cut

makes

shows

very

straps being fastened with buttons

the edges.
on
generally bound

neat
on

138,

is shown

sandal

at

diagram
with

138.

its finished

it will be

seen

how

It is

other
an-

ance.
appear-

cheaply

cuts.

good

many

top of i)ution and

were

finished, for, if

the strap and

strap, one-half, is

compared
as
cheap cutter
Referring to diagram 139

across

Also

strap sandal.
and

DIAGRAM

boots and

lasters.

the
slipper,

cheap

the vamp

It

manner.

button

are

button

to

two

folded

137) and

it is stitched

where

and

cut

last, as

instep.

the

hug

it

make

pull with

to

137.

DIAGRAM

put

instep by

kind, they should

of any

sandals

put

the

ball of the

the

of shape in such

out

strap sandals, or

have

not

have

at

it is wrong

other

different

lastinga sandal,

In

reallyfirst class line of

them
lasted by the same

in

seam

held

that is not

shank,

be drawn

can

the

point.

that

at

shoe

some

the

the

such

with

if tlie strap is made

But

outside.

Grading

it where
used.

But

vampers

the

bottom

it is

rare

wrinkles, especiallydown

have

used

lining in the
using a fancy siitcli
if one
of the facing would
come
without
bad
such a lining is seen
the back
curve.
Diag'am 140 il-

lai-e boots,

sometimes

drill

the

lustrates
to

run

in which

manner

top and

the

the little outward

It will be

by

seen

at the

top

outside

reference

to

the tops fit perfectlythe

that

the tops of the

the

lining

match

other, while

each

be small

enough

the

be

D"

the

inch).

this swell

that

quarters
idea

linings. The

just below

sometimes

large enough

of the

seams

fit inside

to

"D
A

and

at
at

is

139.

liningsmust
and

seams

B."

"B

of the

seams

of the

DIAGRAM

It is all in

one-fourth

be

to

diagram

the

seams

at

quarters,

linings(supposed
the

liningswhich

wrinkles.

seen

as

75

the

out

get

to

top of the linings makes

the

Patterns.

facing to prevent
of the

lines

in the

taken

seams

no

sweeps

the

represents

Shoe

and

Boot

there

smoothly.
the

outside
the

This

tops of

the

that

so

quarters

liningsmust
does

it. It is

cloth

preferable to cut
linings
from
the two
straightacross
highest points,as it is easier
for the liningcutter.
They are closed on with a trimming
All sewing machine
knife so it costs nothing to cut it out.

DIAGRAM

companies
on

with

outside
Of
the

look

knife

"

so

a
as

of the stitch to
the

work

last having
at

have

now

the

one

on

wide
to

129.

throat

leave

prevent
women's

plate
"

wide

used

extension

in

closing
of cloth

fraying out.
slippers,reference
opera
it

already been

made,

peculiarityof

the

cut

it is necessary
of the upper,

to
as

to

only
illus-

Designing,

76

in

trated

with

seam

proper

and

in

top

the

the

will

bulge,

comes

vamp

for

lasting

for

turns,

are

more

methods

hardly

in
all

or

and
believe

the

shoe

owing
less

to

made

facilities
how

the

of

top

this

toe

and

of

fullness.

back

of

last.
three

that

cheaply

and

the

Allow

Nearly
People

turns

Mass.,
can

result
while

will

cause

must

should

than

all

be

be

not

where

place

opera

unacquainted

Haverhill,

will

upper

longer

is

side

the

three-eighths

sizes

conditions.

turns.

This

vamp,

the

length,

This

better.

the

this

it

in

cut

shows
if

boot,

reduced

being

under

Hne

seen,

button

straight

curved

readily

of

pincers

the

on

be

show

last

with

the

back

and

at

with

touched

the

and

foot,

shown

may

edge

bottom

dropped

be

not

As

as

and

the

hug

it.

is

while

Hne,

cut

stayed,

centre

to

full

to

It

129.

the

way

closed

it

diagram

Grading

and

Cutting,

possesses

produced.

inch
last

the

slippers
with
would

the

Desi^nin^, Cuttint^,and

78

one-half

and

age

one

Of

course

shape of
The

will

the

vamp

finished

line in

front

the
142

sides of the

ball

seems

in

be

to

plump

to

want

fingers.A

shoe

as

congress

not

serge

expected

from

to

it

The
as

stock

next

often

be very

will

usual, while
and

gives

be

an

same

the

on

cut

pulling down

lasted
will

pattern
does.

to

the

at

the

is drawn

serge,

down

Of

at

the

sides

never

become

course,

such

with

the

squatty,
a

shoe

is

stylish.

145.

ordinary patent tip (diagram 145)

diagram

the

straighter

144.

be

can

this

DIAGRAM

cut

pair cases.

it out.
more

lasting;but, being

easily. In fact,

60

on

somewhat

DIAGRAM

very

saved

shoe, but the lining,being

last, serves
cut

of serge

yards

Grading

146 is the
appearance

same

tip cut

in the

shoe

to
as

save

145.

Boot

In

tips

putting

eighth
then

the

inch
tacks

on

just

catch

is

it

shoes,
from

back

Shoe

and

the

well

DIAGRAM

to

of

edge
and

Patterns.

good

146.

the

have

79

them
all

vamp
deal

about

of

stock

one-

around,
saved.

for

CHAPTER

XIX.

MEN

In

width,

6 wide

front

and

button,

as

proceed

to

women's

get

add

diagram

obtaining

as

inch

of

stock

to

down

from

"A."

be

five

the

best

to

cut

any

the

assistance

of

the

of

such

be

getting

as

the

Make

heel

at

the

be

put

the

it in

getting

around
See
the

on

"B"

the

that

heavy
measure

line

floor

the

of

one-fourth

the

heel,

the

bottom

an

measure

of

the

leg. Generally

it is

is

and

shoe
The

shoe.
the

with

coarse
curve

in

eye

at

the
of

absence

curves.

find

curve,

front

at

the

fine

in

if very

and

from

when

prepared
back

Then

it.

heel.

of

back

it is to
must

last.

the

the

lasting.

obtain

to

inches

leg higher

when

leg

six

Kay
Mc-

up

mark

After

perpendicular

to

height

of

part
the

one-half

of the

After
ball

full

or

for

is added

over,

more.

heel

perpendicular

the

than

the

at

fine

lines

for

as

suited

mould

added

last

to

require

may

for

lect
se-

100X.

stock

mould

and

for

cheap,

for

drawing

last

back

the

inside
After

last

used

Erect

inch,

up

the

and

gives

eye

bottom

inch

DIAGRAM

bottom

the

the

the

to

one-half

This

looX.

the

described

After
an

last, draw
as

mould

one-half

best

central

as

with

be

to

8; also

or

fine,

be

Begin

probably
the

say

to

are

coarse.

paper

work.

it, and

be

it will

heel

the

size,

goods

selected

having

down

middle

if the
to

it is necessary

standard

wide
are

After

start.

course

goods

if the
sewed

man's

or

on

of

last, and

to

starting

SHOES.

of

the

out

the

ankle

girth
across

of

the

where

the back

require

will

the

When
it

is

of the

leg

shoe

in

greater

Shoes

made

wider

people, while the

Consequently in getting out
for stout

eye

judgment

Put

in the

it

when

curves

joint is much

of lasts

generally

are

thin

applies to

reverse

people.

be

patterns, this should

taken

than

ankle

that

joint pushes

it rests, acting upon

throat

in such

manner

just

below

the

running

the top of the

which

will

shoe

has

been

worn

certainlyresult

in

shoe

in

length

no

The

observed

ankle

jointand

the

counter

after

wrinkles

the

in lasts and

patterns will

appearance

both

of

is necessary.
with

it is easy

ofT and

be laid down,

common

in the vamps

the

is loaded
who

is

who

should
show

down

what
any

course

the allowance.

man

he

should

in it,of

of stretch

amount

same

determine

sense,

is great,

be

for

works

be

with

reallygood

means
on

with
a

that
of

factory, whether

good
good deal

saving
He

ness
busiways.

really
capable

also be
be

of

tude.
of lati-

in many

should

cess,
suc-

fund

of the

his end

of

man

to

patterns, should

shoes.
good in all his ideas of fitting

is necessary

allowed

in results

outside, is

or
doing the work
factor}'
factory experience, which
is also endowed
by nature

He

ditions
con-

so.

used

be in the

and

as

length
governed entirelyby
the factory cuts
nothing but calf,or

If the pattern

shoe

allowance

will settle such

two

or

four

allow

different

can

vary

stock

must

If
about

to

trial

good

in the

Better

the size stick.

factories

difference

allowance

man

the

times.

positiveallowance

in different

good

fullness

with

will be

over

small

of pattern, until
A

necessary.

points,and

stock

cause

the

extends

into

of better

try the last with

more

is found

and

few

the

and

foot.

Next
sizes

fullness

points if obviated

small

ankle

standing

upon

foot between

settle

probably

These

the

vamp.

ankle.

it inward.

the foot wrinkles

lengthwise of the

on

the

point against

the

at

thick, it will

joint,and

upon

of the

of the

curve

last is too

ankle

weight of the body

back

to

as

If the top of the

upper

the

for

shoes

back

the

on

the

out

which

women's

on

well.

or
straighter,

will be much

curve

some

will look

that the shoe

so

used

lesser

leg, to get the top

the

curv^e, which

of the

reason

The

be used,

must

throat
radius

larger

same

of

the* back

curve

of ankle

widths

getting the front of

After

he

comes.

joint as

consideration.

into

on

ankle

women.

the

on

of the

than

more

slant

the ankle

as

bone

to

as

prominence
in

than

men

so

deal

good

This

is ofT.

shoe

the

leather

the

up

heel,

ankle

the
swell

Then

seam.

the

toward

half the ball

as

back

and

foot the

the

on

8i

measure

where

larger

be

to

shoe

projectstakes

the

same

top of the leg in front, back

the

Patterns.

sufficient for front

adding

after

sharpest the

is

curve

Shoe

and

Boot

Designing, Cutting,and

82

should

except

have

now

laying

out

The

quarters.

standard

the
the

and

vamp

length

In this

ideas.

advances

they be originalor borrowed, they

thorouglilytried,and if found beneficial,adopted.

be

We

If he

his ideas.

whether

ones,

new

any

with

into the fittingroom

to go

Grading

measure

of

vamp

off

on

man's

shoe,

button

for

the

the
lap
governed entirelyby
of
about
five-eighths

is
the

of

lines

toe

on

four
inches
back
as
lastingand then measure
is
also
the
of
back
of
The
or
golosh
length.
height
vamp
of opinion in this standard.
matter
a
inch
one-third
line "C," allow
After laying out the vamp
of
the
for lap, which
by
gives the bottom
quarter ,shown
dotted line "D"; but when
reaching the front lap of vamp

inch

an

on

for

the quarters, allow

in

vamp

little surplus stock

stitched

being

DIAGRAM

it will stillfind' place to

standard, and

round

lOIX.

catch

the

soft, stretchy material.

if very

on,

the

that when

so

Then

on.

of vamp

toe

out

to

up

the

lap on
straight fold

cut

line "E."
It is

it takes

This
the

out

is

quarters

It is well
the

until

the

at the top

over

of

an

so

to

as

inch.

When

lining trimmed

lining is folded
just right to

make

line "B"
small

the

square
to

turn

the

off and
hand

by
a

so

smooth

shows

then

on
raw

the

the

lining.The

away.

top of

across

both
is rolled

teenths
three-sixsmall

ter,
quar-

the

lining and

edge,
folded

lap of

cut

upper

the

per

"A,"

at

The

about

around

down

left

the

inside

as

the

"D."

lining clear

down

that

bottom

quarter
at

comer

stitched

stitched

the quarters

out

off the

fly is reached,

the front is either

cloth

get

round

to

shows
a

stitched

are

to

Dotted

lump.

usually left

quarters

matter

easy

line "C"

and

vamp

an

loiX.

diagram
as

now

or

the

edge

small

cloth

will

be

quarter is

left

then

sometimes

finish,but

neat

Here

class result

at

illustrated

in

shown

way

This

had

get

the

makes

shoe,

button

gives a

little practiceit

first

expense.

until it reaches
the

is exactly the
which

point on
of the

rest

ted
dot-

as

large quarter

the

line "A"

in which

line "C"

"D,"

at

quarter

flyfrom

the

out

diagram 102X,
dotted

tit this

to

of the small

corner

front of the quarter

"B," when

less

Then

line shows.
as

much

the

Round

it has

cases

is folded.

folding, and

yet after the help has

and

in other

8-

unnecessarilyexpensive.

is

is

Patterns.

and

edge

raw

for

allowance

proper

Shoe

and

Boot

to

swing
is the

way

up

and

swing

quarter.
at "B"
pencilon point shown
get the spring in the fly,then the

Place

the

to

quarter

DIAGRAM

laid ofif by the

flyas
width

of the
If

leg

iron

will

folded

pattern

edge

to

projecta

by
by

Barber

hand
This

around

then

shears

the

little so

if the

outside

diagram 103X,

stretch

it gets

the

that it may

stock

be

to

advisable

to

as

the

over

shoes

turning

it is generally

being put on the

fly lining,allowing the
be trimmed
off closely

be

of

firm

character

or

soft.

fold
will

line "A."

is

allowance

the

to

stock

edge

dotted

half

about

plain, it

if the

flyis arranged
the

from

In men's

stitched

trimmer,

the

103X.

be

to

edge.
edge, the edge

the

of

back

top.

is

the

lengthen

along

the

even

as

generally

eye,

fly

and

at

button

spring it some,

DIAGRAM

102X,

the

on

be

the
seen

Lufkin

by

machine

all

reference

to

Use

102X

and

useful

to

diagram
is also

102X

and

Cutting,

Desiffninsf,

84

add

get

Grading

the

around

See

fly lining.

the

out

gram
Dia-

edge.

gram
dia-

104X.

folding

After

will

quarters
outside

the

lining

the

leaving

quarter,

to

on

It will

be

DIAGRAM

that

is left

there
and

over

make

The
closed

on.

inch

quarter

for

answer

A
way

the

but
or

bead

down

in

"A"

at

the

top

before
fit the

large
of

closing
fly

button

104X

diagram

in

the

inch

one-quarter

to

fold

stitching through.

is left

front, if

does

one

not

the

leave

to

necessary

being

off, after

trim

to

on,

it is not

course

on

to

care

one-

it

make

stay.

man's
as

"B"

margin
Of

by

stay

to

noticed

the

to

on

I04X.

in front

on

it

where

to

it is well

lining,

lining.

the

close

to

finished, but

when

the

to

is best
down

top

rolled

be
on

fly,it

the

button

may

straight
do

some

the

priced work,

top

be

cut

woman's.
like

not

side

also

it,

of the

fly.

however.
.

to

close

This
as

it

reduces

leaves

It does

in

on

very

an

the

pense,
ex-

cord

even

well

same

on

dium
me-

Designing, Cutting,and

86

stretchingso
calf,or

any

vamps

to

flank,

the very

best

fore

This

will

this

is

is

about

desired

on

the proper

of the

ofifthe lower

or

draw

the

in
so

vamp

top of the last.

this plan,

to

is got

vamp

in patent
as

out
with-

out

interlocking. An

locking
inter-

the heel

into

to

cut

in diagram

of the heel, as

of

one

io6X.

it sometimes

Round
stock

saves

cut.

DIAGRAM

Diagram 107X Shows

as
diagram looX, and the
how
an
interlocking vamp
the
sides or wings
leaving
and

the

heel,

"spring," and

the

other, is shown

comer

is easier

and

shoe

adhere

or

manner.

cut

the

to

some

the

to
necessary
be Jiandled
carefully.

to

heels

at

have

line with

standard

throat

to

it is best to

diagram looX,
regard to closingat the heel
or
reversing vamp,
so
as
the

closed

from

cut

gettinggood

and

prevented in

it is almost

shoe

In

vamps

If it be

in

bone

being

give it just about

leather

back

possiblemanner,

part

Vamps

lasted.

it is necessary
the

to

stretch, if not

interlock.

to

the

toe

about

now

being

skin, where
the

to

sure

are

made

small

keep

And

while

much

Grading

still have

I07X.

standard

from

the

outline; but

same

is got
of the

at

vamp

it also

the

first

as

high

last

same

shows

effort,also
as

possible

interlock.

them

In

making it interlock, the spring of the vamp

may
be just as the last would
call for it,for in this case
not
it
of opening, or
is governed by the amount
at
the
throat,
heel.
Get

the

First,it is
dividers.

at

Then

heel-

is measured
the

fold

up
as

to

necessary

place

twice, which
vamp

line of

fold

the

get

one

"F."

that one-half

from

shown

one-half

point of

gives you
See

at

F, by
dotted

in

vamp

the

the

dividers
This

the

following

throat
at

is the

measure

at

H, and

line P.

This

ure
meas-

width
from

findingit at K, which

way.

D, E, with
of the
E

to

gives you
gives the line to

Boot

Shoe

and

that

the

will not

waste

men's

Regarding

swells

which

cut

right

the

comb

In

left.

as

the

shanks

in

such

shoes

sides

at

will be

is

vamp

got
made

mostly

are

all

generally

are

have

made,

are

positions, relative

to

one

perfect shoe

and

wide

on

very

quite

saving

stock

some
same

have

to

of

closed

vamp

by

one

the heel, and

to

DIAGRAM

cise his

best

cuts

In

they

in each

often

the

with

tell which

open

selected
To
from

the

mark
the
a

one

in

that

which

deciding
few

selected

made

days

the

one

the

any

way,

and

the

closed
to

one

the

next

in

person

opposite from

peatedly
Re-

the

for

same

open

differently,

with

other

impossible

was

some

of shoes.

case

pair w^ere

goods

coarse

vamping,

same

the

one

after

closed

107X

diagram 108X, get

away

exer-

more

he

one

had

formerly.
get

diagram

correct

of

it

instance

one

the

on

vamp,

which,

contrary, and

than

put

shoes

two

was

cutter

or

In

leather.

right together

Afterwards

heel.

cutting by using either,

heels

the

the

the

case.

run

closed

some

in cutting
and

I08X.

practice this really saves

are

one

in

judgment

it is

that

reverse,

have

out

come

patterns

to

of

grade

shoes

vamp

lasts,

wide

manufacturers

large spread,

at

In

coarser

lasts, the

styles of

two

the

as

the

desired, but

vamp

possibleto get.

this way,

satisfactorily. It is said

any,

finest shoes

patterns

straight pattern.
This
not
give quite the
may

good

with

the

ball

heights

the

vamp,
outside

cutting

majority

is
cause
be-

the

of
preclude the possibility

to

as

of circular

inside, and

factories

Lasts,

the

and

the

left" vamp

"right and

dog"

price is obtained,

good

and

"

"bull

far to

so

much.

so

the "other
from

is

toe

out

for

vamps.

so-called

the

on

the

and

ing
carefullya reversin cutting will be

stock

any

87

result.

needed

if done

and

fold to get half of the vamp,

vamp

Patterns.

heel

and

the

surplus as

shown

very

if the

of stock

stock
to

to

draw

by marking

the fold line "A."

around

hollow

take

vamp,

toe

as

Then

line "B,"

by dotted

cut

is

vamp

fairlyheavy.

into the shank.

half-vamp got
it

as

seen

have

to

which

line "C."

shank, this spring

be

the

around

It

the toe
will cut

For

is

in

last

good as
plus
gives a suras

88

To

Designing, Cutting, and

Grading

liningfor

shoe, mark

the

out

get

the standard

gives lines "B,"

"C."

three-sixteenths

of

down

the heel

seam

from

inch

at

is to roll
the

to
on

of

shown

(see

take

fraying out;
small

teaches

full

top facing is

that

liningthan

the
on

the

lining down

stay entirelyloose

allows

the

shoe

with

to

It may
to

when

from

draw

by seaming.
liningwith good

standard

to

the counter,

caused

be,
add
when
a

as

the

the

outside

top of

shows
the

to

quarters

tom
botters
quar-

little,

be used, close

to

the

to

beside

This

will roll

quarters
a

tle
lit-

facing is used.

quarters

shoe

on

stitch

to

The

inside

an

line to the

back

it does

This

bottom.

Nothing

last.

is

little lower

lining,leaving lining

vamp

vamp

will then

with

away

generally vamped

the

terfere
in-

lump

through

results.

is sometimes

one-eighth
getting it out

say

rather

one-fourth

I09X.

It is usual

lining.

whole

the

when

by closing

roll is caused

extra

toe

only.

seam

sense

with

if

but

the

away
on

ofifthe

the

with

cut

Put

off

marks

lining project above

about

top of the

the

line "L," which

DIAGRAM

the

then

"E."

at

of

prevent

stay

"D")

let

Common

and

and

cloth

This

lap.

the bottom

Next

quarter.

around

gram
"A," dia-

quarter

seen

as

"A"

top facing is to be used, line

facing. When
closing the outside on

more

on

line

by line "F," for

Notice

over.

lining. If

and

all around

on

inch

gives Hne

vamp

line of vamp

bottom

top,

Add

an

from

as

the

through

and

109X,

which

looX,

diagram

the button

large

seam

in

the
inch
for

that it will be

case,
up

along

button

is to

be

essary
nec-

the

instep on

shoe.

This

taken

up

the

plies
ap-

front

of the fly
fittingthe shoe, and when a stay is to be made
from
lining to prevent the side of the vamp
bowing up at
that point in lasting. All such
trifles should
be
at
once
remedied

by the pattern

man.

CHAPTER
men's

The
deal

be

two

well

lasted.

In

shoe

shoe

to

be

drawn

should

driven,

and

the

sides

before

the

sides

of

tacks

the

at

side

tacks

the

ball

straight

the

toe

in, and

are

wfthout
line

the

of

is that

the

by

of

and

ball

are

lasted.

allow

the

lastcr

wishes

one

for

cloth

to

box,

liquid acetic

acid,

consistency.

Oil

As

to

lace

mixture

own

along
the

against

on

patch

of

glue

in

powdered
until

flour

rye

in

it is good

match

the

cloves

shoes,

Mark

and

vamp

the

at

have

the

simply

lining

to

around

quarter
front

top front,

standard.

is

of

the

it is of
to

the

right

mildew

prevent

mould.

or

at

adding

after

lengthwise.

recommend

would

the

lasted

work

to

prefer

I I IX.

his

use

be

or

fastened

heel

drawn

to

tack

be

upper

strained

vamp

toe,

the

last

having

stretch

more

the

over

the

should

it.

toe

DIAGRAM

If

last

hand

upper

that

some

good

consider

man's

the

of

which

on

place
a

well

end

so

matter

back

the

the

on

lasting.

first

It is claimed

of

out

got

The

is

shoes

prevailing opinion

back

be

can

congress,

written.

be

lasting.

and

of men's

lasting

could

not

lace

XXr.

is

to mark

if you

around
the

same

shoe,

the
as

the

to

and

quarter
in the

out

get
to

in

through

end

of

ter
quar-

inch

gives

This

get
the

button,

scribed.
de-

and

five-sixteenths

choose.

special

button

from

about

to

nothing

in the

back

just

boot

lOoX

diagram

Swing
end

less

or

There

is obtained

line.
bottom

more

vamp

standard

button

lace

for this,

as

we

the

quarter

standard.

The

out

except

the

front

Designinof,Cutting:,

90

line,and
the

that is obtained

liningshould

be cut

quarter, it is put
Common

There

is

patterns,

apply in
arbitraryset

all

of rules

shoe

whole

Then

vamp.

diagram

but

looX;

ofifthe front of the

the

slightly
at

leg, and

prevent

Next

leg

lay ofif the

all

out

the

lay

the

in diagram

Next

crimped.

each

making

it

under

the

this

and

See

in"

machine.

be

sharpened

at

should

be

thrown

which

the

dotted

the

throat,

forward,
line

shows

the

on

of the

centre

desired.

get

the

Then
cut

pieces.
and

quarter

quarter

This

may

crimping

lap

and

as

back

quarters

diagram 114X.
a

to

front

form

on

113X.

quarters, after which

the

get the crimp form, which

used

the

Get

gore,

11.3X.

the

the

under
reduce

point.

wide

as

for

hug

gore

side of the

standard

112X

"cut

to

that

out

taken

cut

change

the

diagram iiiX,

vamp,

will get out

we
use

other

make

to

be

congress,

If any

get
as

to

seam
a

signs.
de-

judgment-

First

DIAGRAM

of gore
use

no

it is

at

following with

vamp,

will

as

fullness

gore,

lap

so

Measure

gore.

laps and

seen

we

112X.

top, for the

out

as

DIAGRAM

and

quarters

as

any

out

is

there

vamp.

new

standard

the

makers.

next.

out

get

of leg,

top

taken

leg, and as
this point.

at

width

be

may

with

for pattern

on

up

of

same

the

to

giftgets

if used

cases

the

is wanted

applies

same

the front

facing on

front

natural

Rules

congress

measure

the

no

The
a

and

on,

cuts

sense

the

folded

Gradins;

quarter, while

under

away
If

in woman's.

principle as

the

from

and

be

or
as

quarter
wood

the

front

the
in

front

will

we

crimp, or

The

rather
seen

which

pattern

after they have

use

to

the iron

line should

front

diagram
quarter

been

of

the

leg

115X, in
cutting in

Boot

pattern,

and

stock

the
may

Shoe

and

full line the

work

shape

better

for

116X.

the

front

for

of it

DIAGRAM

centre

represent

the

line of the

fold

of

blocker.

the crimp.

make

less

or

the
on

ferent
Dif-

in it.

curve

more

front

quarter,

gram
dia-

line B, which

dotted

Dia.nsx.

will

91

I I4X.

blocking pattern
Place

to

with

DIAGRAM

Now

Patterns.

'

I I 5X,

piece
Mark

of

paper

around

and

will

the bottom

be

the

of the

front

from

pattern

fingeron

the
so

and

Desi^ninor,Cutting,

92

mark

spot marked

on

of the

front

quarter

which

mark

across

of

stock,

made

A
H

and

stock

be

to

This
which

shown

crimped, whether
It also depends
is well

to

governed
repeated

by

the

use

rule

deal

be

trials may

the

sharper than
will
the

front

the

see

that

cutting

in

P, after
amount

is

ti6X.

one

any

which

by the

or

who

man

far

as

on

it is to
on

the

be

brake.

crimps it. It
practical,
being

in hand.

case

get

can

largely depends

as

Sometimes

needed.

117X.

is

quarter

cutting-inform,
the

ger
fin-

front

the

to

diagram

by hand,

the

laid down

DIAGRAM

When

the

allowance

an

in

or
on

instances

in many

it

as

manner

machine

good

gives the
in

whereby

rule

the

crimped,

place

from

R.

place

the front pattern

I I6X,

time,

first

the

perfectblocker

Then

Then

after

that

set

K.

Mark

at

as

with

no

E.

to

swing again, keeping

the top

be

to

seems

to

line B.

DIAGRAM

There

swing

and

from

near

compare

from

and

estimated,

roughly

to

to

place marked

the

get another

to

as

Grading

crimp

pattern

by

crimped with the form

ter
expected that the cut-

it is

is made

curve

twisting

to

match

that

of

straightening the

or

leather.

Diagram
with

117X

edges folded

shows

around

all parts of
the

gore

so

whole

cut

lining

clearly that there

is

Designing,

94

These
smooth

to

The

lining.

give

the

and

so

the

in

simple

as

need

no

and

as

explanation.

cut

making
under

will
in

point

coming

down

so

as

prevent
the

lining

tightly

to

shoes.

congress

sometimes

in

This

that

at

119X
is

slightly

instep.

from
in

seen

pieces,

two

to

outside

ii8X

diagrams

cut

often

hard

Grading

points

is

the

up

too

the

at

lining

hitting

is

as

essential

are

point

of

preventing

last,
In

surplus
from

shoe

swells

little

two

and

Cutting,

is

shown

the

desired.

ing
lin-

congress
This

is

so

CHAPTER

In

reaching

the

the

al!

work
others

and

Some

end.

same

the

through
various

use

there

congress,

for

many

use

folding

fit and

fold

pasting

in

lot

of

ways

believe

Others

upper.

others

are

factories

machines

lining. Again

of the

of

the

cement,

edges

gore

by hand,

using

no

whatever.

cement

It

is by

comparison

that

only

we

able

are

arrive

to

at

deductions.

proper

First
front

fit

is fitted
in
is

and

then

quite

swinging

has

rising

frame,

treadle.

This

machine

operator

and

lining

edged,
use

blade,

times
Someing
fold-

the

"Marshall"

hung

on

fold,

or

and

quite expert

the

controlled

part,

one

the

where

and
a

falling, being

only

has

desired.

as

raw

steel

folds

become

can

lining

Some

point.

single thin

the

edge

raw

it is left

disputed

of

edges
left

or

shoe

The

congress.

the

folded

cheap

very

folder, which

an

cheap

common

closed,

seam

gore

but

men's

fitting

CONGRESS.

THE

LASTINi;

AND

FITTING

XXII.

at

to

by

time,

it very

work

rapidly.
"Shippee"

The
six

folders, three

folds

sizes,

two

size

same

being

as

and

size

In

alone

eye

manner

have

been
The

so

long

finish
a

the

the
teach

folding by

generally

the

This

gives
the

the

cement

good

lining
or

is

gore

pattern

those

the

guide

is taken,

pasting

one

tion,
operated
fit-

are

heated,

for

after

is folded

sometimes
In
the

who

heated

factories

some

is

quarter

had

worked
and

experts

rapidly.

the

by

being
in this

could

But

get

it must

operators.

who

men's

make

machine.

marked

where

lining

fold.

very

the

majority

around

at

being

the

work

favor

of

This

machine

or

become

had

in

be

measure

patterns

fingers, as

of

to

leg

the

bone,

operators

they

to

is the

quarters.

edges,

after

of the

edge

the

seen

do

all

The

retain

to

as

that

the

back

at

work

rubbing

with

and
task

lining,

in

size

be

must

perfectly.

I have

so

nice

fold

with

and

patterns-

factories

on.

front

of

each

that

so

pattern

gore

difference

accurate

is folded

lining

the

the

pressed

stitched

in

whole

the

as

the

10,

entire

the

and

flat iron
the

it to

other

machine,

very

keep

to

serves

the

does

it, or

to

the

constructed

The

10.

comprising

machine,

"gang"

foot, and

and

this

folds

is

each

say

entirely

put

machine

for

for

specially

cut

folder

with

quarters
the

cheap

are

be

to

seamed

there

of

piece

operator.

being

table, and

In
a

seem

congress

fitted

In
up

congress
red

chalk,

lapped

ries
facto-

some

the

inside

on.

front,
the

to

front

96

Designing, Cutting,and

(iuarter.

The

outside

and
back

in the

quarters

of lining and
who

front

the

on

quarters

and

the

seam

the

rubbed,
The

cements

times
some-

are

down

brings

lining
The

operator

seam.

sometimes

are

cementer

the

on

the

covering

on,

the

and

trimmed

are

table

or

the time

at

places the

machine

web.

rear

In

a
fitting

stitched

the

on

They
placed on

gore.

added, then

seam

of stitching put

row

the

and

edge

better

but it needs
finish,
the

quarters
the

on

are

avoid

then

another

up

rolled

makes

then

when

over

on

close
nice

very

edges of

the

stitched

and

stitched

row

then

operators
first and

of

side up

wrong

them;

they are

allowance

an

last method

the

fullness

often

so

shoe, be particularas

congress
the

folded

gore

of choice

before

to

on

line

gore.

To

on

This

edge.

have

folded

matter

folded

are

may

hold

to

on

it is

and

the

right side

when

folded

the

the gore,

the quarters

whether

custom

the quarters will have

fine congress

they lap on

where

edge
and

to

with

afterward.

the

stitcher,

clear

strap in the top of the front

web

and

they

stay stitched

alone

quarters

sticks the

she

Afterwards

inside back

shoes

closed

seam

edges

back

wrong-side-out, which

outside

closed, being vamped

hand

back

the

to

the

to

Cheap

laps are.

inside.

the

it goes

Then

open.

the

to

leaving the

manner,

stitches it where

lining

the

in between

It is cemented

quarter.

same

vamped,
through lining and
the

cemented

is also

gore

Grading

This

last.

does

position to
called waist

does

not

instepof the foot.

last, but

extend

up

shoe

position

too

far

that is not

to

last

ferent
dif-

the

so-

the

to

on

buttoned

instep

have
that

see

the

on

of

front

of the

necessarilyto

mean

measure

not

the

to

in the

seen

laced

or
Any
up
bring into prominence this fault if it exists in
the last. The
lining where
pieced by cutting it in two
of the gore, is often left loose
pieces,lapping at the bottom
In
and
sewed
not
together.
large factories in the
many
This
East the liningsare cut by dies and a beam
machine.
the
thicknesses
be
and
allows
to
cut
at
once
permits many

the front

cloth

will

be

to

laid out

the

of

means

When
a

the

The

almost

cut

This
seam

vamp

width.

The

dies

square

as

bottom.

be
gore

The
forward.
be pulled very hard
pulls the shank in hard after the heel has

counter

of the gore.

counter

what
some-

is thus
When

just forward
presses

held

the shoe
the

up

against

and

end
the

the

comes

vamp

the

seam

used
will

upper

between

at

if

stretch

laster

been

used

times
some-

tacked.
the back

ofifthe last wrinkles

will

how

the

toward

the

of the counter,
leather

the

on

corners

high as can
the
In lasting,

is

counter

and

with

upper

show

are

improvements are
making large savings daily.
is sometimes
shoes there
lastingcongress

counter

sides.

whole

like all such

expensive, but

showing

pulls down

hard

indicates

This

shank.

are

too

by

the

generallycut on a
a bal if the
lacingis
generally
the

around

quarter

about

edge and
top, while

the

is the

The

Creole

three

same

whole

not

is

congress

in

the

upper

crimp

one

on

The

back

where

front
and

seam

the

line

of

cut.

peculiar shoe, and though not

in large quantities. It is

125X.

provided large spready skins

employed. Since the shoe is
competent
but
the back
it requiresconpiece; having
siderable
seam
experience and judgment to place the pattern, for
to

and

cut

stitching
the

from

grades, is sold

expensive shoe

an

used

about

the

bal

seam

of

rows

inch

from

is put

seam

DIAGRAM

are

is
in

occurs

circular

four

or

distance

in

in the finest

made

cutting of

three-fourths

lower

the

often

same

some

the top of the vamp

which

of the vamp,

centre

by

shown

is often

loose.

too

with

finished

of place

out

This

shank.

in the

method

be drawn

to

straightline.

Another

too

ing
allow-

is stretched, thus

gore

shoe

part of the

downward

curve

lasted

just after they

last

the

on

lastingat the outside

much
the

shoes

how

Notice

forward

97

been

has

shoe

the

that

congress

lasted.
the

Patterns.

shank.

in the

down

Observe

Shoe

and

Boot

cut,

cutters

must

not

the

back

from

be cut
and

hip

that part of the skin

so

as

to

lx)nes.

pattern presented has long been

in

in

a factory
cheaply, still leaving stock for crimping.
In cutting a new
pattern it should be thoroughly tried
before being accepted and adopted, for every
kind of leather
to be crimped needs
It is not possible
a dififerent allowance.
the allowance
be without
to say just where
must
trial;such

and

cuts

matters

and

the

rest

deal

good

with

the

conditions

of the

factory

workmen.

It is usual

in fine stock

dongola,
crimp
be destroyed by
to

not

use

it wrong
the

edge

on

shoe,

any

side out,
of the

so

crimp

say

kangaroo

that the
form.

grain

or

will

Sometimes

Designing, Cutting,and

98

Grading

time, the grain sides being

pieces are crimped at one
placed against each other.
the cutting in pattern for the
Diagram 125X shows
line.
Creole
and diagram 126X
shows
the blocker
congress,
two

shows

various

lines caused

I, 2, 3,

in

up

the fold, and

of cutters

factories

there

cutting leather

all sizes and

the

allowances

the

show

the

points

on

for the

taking

"sorters," who
the

at

up

be found

to

are

same

quite a number
using blockers

into vamps,

throating them.

not

picking out

At
these

sort

up

time

the

another

table
into

vamps

after
qualities,

of

be

can

weights,
they

which

throated

This necessitates
lings
handtwo
by other cutters.
and two
operations of cutting.
In other
factories the cutter
them
cuts
complete, and

are

them

sorts

the

at

time.

same

The

DIAGRAM

better

one,

for if the

job

little

more

Again,
them

cuts

if the

he

finds
A

the

good

for many

other

govern.

finishes

cutter

may

interlock, the

is

should

have

two

closed

stock

best

many

cutters

the

seems

expected to complete his

cutting will be given a first-class

in

care

latter method

126X.

cutter

one

still conditions

vamp,

he

crimping.

In many

seen

by swinging diagram 125X

after which

shown,

as

lines B

dotted

sets

his vamps
of vamp

he

when

patterns,

heel, working

them

first
to

one

together

as

suited.
have

worked

in the

factory

same

working now
just as they worked
when
the
of
much
cost
not
so
shoemaking was
years
ago,
of an object as was
the quality turned
Now
the savout.
ing
of trifles assures
the success.
How
will
it
take
a
long
of poor
careless cutter, or one
judgment, to waste his daily
of the very best and closest cutters
found
are
wages? Some
in
and
are

some

years

small

neither

obscure

they

superior

Boys'

and

nor

are

factory
the

in

of the

out

some

people they

work

way

for know

town,

they

workmen.

and

youths' shoes

are

so

near

to

men's

in

princi-

pie
and

that

almost

no

is

difference

only

the

DIAGRAM

127X

Diagram
and

the

is

same

shows

the
draw

to

best

the

for

quarter,

men's

smoothly

and

lay

and

leg

than

vamps;

men's.

for

tongue
128X

as

it

men's

lace
be

should

12eX.

B
If

to

of

diagram

from

shoes.

of

smaller

style

DIAGRAM

stitched

height

99

127X.

in

shown

in

made

are

congress

Patterns.

Shoe

and

Boot

the

to

A.

put

on

foot.

This
as

tongue
shown

is
here

one

of

it will

CHAPTER

XXIII.

GRADING

There

are

has

some

Each

the

Reid

the

by

of

is

But
No

lasts

by

of

English

patterns
American

or

change

any

all

pattern.

of

sets

for
of

sets

width

grade

to

sole

1-16

patterns

are

across

the

inch

graded

are

without

and

for

wrong
between
slim

sizes
in

of the

only

inch

quarter

the

on

between
1-16

only
There

last

sizes

this

at

writing

whereby

last

factories

exactly

turns

If five

model

the

Thoug*h

by

So

vary.

and
in the

smallest

of each

the

If the

to

obtain

greatest

in

the

lathe

is laid

used

to

as

set

grade,

and

results

in

of

one-

the

soles

out

different

set

sizes
in

of

sizes

the

called

the
away

from

turning

lathe

is set

are

regular
but

operators

by adjustment

in

furthest

sizes
the

in

may

of the

almost

bring
fan.

out

the

est
largsize

model

different

from

also

sure

tories
fac-

difference

length

"fan"

all.

stick,"

"size

the

will
model.

the
on

no

length,

same

are

results, that

is

from

set, because

furthest

that

there

the

given points

the

given

are

from,

of

be

measure,

of

from

lasts

obtained

be

may

at

in

manufacturers

will

lasts

among
different

set

of

sets

different

tJhe machine,

lasts

means

lathe

turning

last

smallest
the

are

machine.
so

by

too

perfect system

same

results

largest

may

the

turn

positive

of the

girths

to

like

largest

determined

grade

sizes

though

is

this

the

grade

made,

any

the

different

last

that

assurance

be

may

manufacturers

same

that

larger

on

lasts

inch.

is not

model.

The

It makes

of

only

set

sizes, though

gain

sometimes

understand

smaller

tihe

graded

are

shoes.

sizes.

fit the

wrong,

grade

us

fitted

to

that

inch, leaving the

last

same

made

prove

is, sole

lasts

patterns

let

now

lathe

the

graded

women's

on
we

the

to

To

child's

3-16

proportion
"fan"

grade

above

be

are

wrong,

but

of

must

lasts.

full ball

anything

bottoms

if upper

but

that

patterns;

patterns

graded

fit them,

to

the

sole

fit the

not

sole

patterns

upper

fit them;

to

will

fit the

to

if the

made

they

the

The

and

sole

and

Cote,

complete

size

the

first and

the

matter

are

wrong

be

these

on

without

out

got

are

lasts.

to

improved

adapted

and

graded

are

them.

the

the

of

widths

parts.

patterns

the

obtaining

one

measurement,

Lasts

to

for

from

graded

centimeter

systems
e.xtra

claimed

machine

Cote

of

means

also, that

be

may

The

is

for

grading upper
patterns.
several
body
emspecial merit, and

to

known

machine

widths

machines

claims

It

patterns.
the

several

best

PATTERNS.

UPPER

the

levers

regulates
quite

the

different

Designing, Cutting, and

I02

other

manufacturers

in the

have

largestsizes

The
which

madhine

of the

for

prefer is
Hyacinthe, P. 0.

grading machine.
brought it out.
perfected form.
In
whidh

the

is

equally as
On

the

out

even

and

grade
scarcelywear
heig'htof leg may

Any

arranged

that it

so

pattern where

the

Another
been
and

has

fast

In hand
1-16

quite

also

system

and

Leather

have

the

known,

and

the

invented

not

often

of

"

system,
to

only

by the lasts.
These

are

and

anything
pivot joints,
"

on

of

on

grading.
but

it is

small

boot

the sale of it has

adapted

both

to

sole

teach

it

times

of

the

that cuts

some

years

the

the

by

nearest

show

now

and

expedite in

shoe

Shoe

Then

we

writer, which
of

correct

of bhe

slow

anything

any
manded
de-

as

upper

this is so, but

why

it is too

rush, and

in

ago

invented

because

the

proportional system,

gives 'fhe grades

push

the pattern

England.

I shall

machine

grading

London,
is

prove
that

one

zinc.

madiine,

as

attachment

illustrated

Record

I will endeavor

It is

have

we

rules

Radii

"

which

regular grade.

well

been

grading
of

he

its present

edge,

almost

the

on

run

cuttingor punching
it is graded.
as

do

best of results

not

in

grading.

pattern

There

as

leg is

original

board, iron, and

worked

gives the

St.

of

since

years

affect the accuracy

to

be

the

was

points all swing

as

Cote,

marking

can

pushed, is the "Hartford."

upper

with

so

machine

thin

one

patterns

upper

grading machines,
of getting stuck
account

binders'

on

The

can

appear

on

on

with

machine

widths.

will

Louis

then, however,

wheel

worn

well

Cote

of

nearly forty

tracing

sole and

Parrott's

not

fast, I prefer a diamond

works

W.

was

becomes

both

invention

Geo.

It

difference

set.

grading

It

place of
often

it,quite

Grading

I do

process.

that will

swer
an-

factoryis

a
adopted.
sometimes
Formerly upper
patterns were
graded by
thick
using
pastelboard, stacking up piecesenougti for a set

of whole

sizes, then

obtained

being
Thirty
of paper

and

had

pretty well,

being

done

10

last

ago

pencil drawn

rolled

tested

20

taken
were

were

and

sets

wholly by

on

hand

set

would

to

be

The

hand.

on

it,the last in the

with

way

knife.

its side

on

the

while
mean-

Then

pencil.
gra'ded. After

they

if they "came"

see

gotten

piece

out, the

cutting was

done

grading
ners'
by tin-

Then
carpenters'gouges.
from
1-16
to
up," anywhere
3-16 being
after Which
carpenter'scoarse
they
rasp,

small

"trued

off with
bound

around

manufacturer

straight shears, and

they

laid

was

little eadh
out

by

or

through all, the grade

the differential slant of the

gotten

was

been

years
a

being
pattern

by

cutting dow-n

anvil

few

with

wooden

mallet.

Some-

Boot

times

they

binding

When
from

of

grading

the
the

take

to

First
have

the

to

proportion.

this
draw

large

around

each

process

radiating

of
it

is

lines,

this

and

of

will

binding

the

near

do

the

result

This

woman's

button

careful

very

with

away

line

will

we

150.

immaterial

wholly

pieces
middle

instance

being

with

corner

for

the

the

get

diagram

quarter,

the

the

to

as

In

That

side

usual

quarter
the

sharp.

corners

lining
In

centre.

of

the

mark

is

standard

with

start

down

run

possfble.

possible.

as

to

represents

of

centre

graded

woman's

4-C

diagram
boot.

be

to

to

running

as

it

this

having

103

roll

thoug'ht

not

proportional

standard,

set

tinner's

thing

was

Patterns.

Such

machine

Shoe

through

run

smoothly.

with

on

were

and

the
from

where
is

all

cessity
ne-

the

you
matter

CHAPTER

XXIV.

GRADING

If

is to

one

hand

grade

dividers, and
a

can

pair costing $5.00

good

are

inches

but

results

good

will need

$2.00

from

the

insist

while

that

be

obtained

pair of proportional

$20.00

to

headquarters

Some

may

HAND.

one

pay

at

enough.

long,

BY

for

that

for

them;

drawing

they

tools,

is convenient,

length
from

six

pair

nine

be

must

equally
inches

in

length.

DIAGRAM

The
with

proportional
movable

which

the

the

line

on

leg

of

times
4

as

the

long

just

1-5

principle

grade

leg.

sizes
First

ofif with

the

fulcrum.

by
4

is located

the

long

of

the

are

is

short

have

set

the

So

end.

generally
the

long

end

end

and

laid

to
so

do

line

the
is

open

on

just

short

end

equals just

short

end

is set

These

on.
2

when
with

that

that

with

from

But

it is
so

when

so

out

instance

sliding centre
even

if the

same.

nothing

is

dividers

figures by

and

For

The

end.

long end,

just

we

long

pair of

lines

shiftingthe

divider, the
as

is simply

laid

on

Now
the

the

dividers
the

line

which

on

spaces

it is

the
aline.

on

divider

fulcrum,

set

to

marked

151.

one

to

tional
proporor

10,

commencing
the

figures

leg

on

rests

and
to

on

the

on

the

Boot

point of

the toe

"B."

at

whidi

draw

mark

around

the line "A"

the

it will not

course

from

short

come

ends

each

in

other

point
and

otherwise

Have

lines
could

one

the quarter
Use

centre

all around.

If

bottom

at

wanted,
as

as

at

the

lines

quarter

leg near

"D."

At

grade

and

they

Next

the

do

place

that
the

which

"H,"

with

ating
radi-

the lines
151,

as

will
at

seen

with

ready

needle

"A"

you

other, yet

or

continuous

from

the top draw

point

dividers

circles
is anywhere

curve

end,

the horizontal

will

at

as

"B"

corner,

positive

the

each

at

to

corner

call Hhe

we

break

is needed

set.

grade.

to

in what

sufificient to

one

At

each

to

line
is

measurement

not

give

it

so

rectly
cor-

the rest of the pattern.

one

long leg

the short

diagram

intersection

the

draw

to

of the

dividers

in the

"A," diagram 150, and on line i at "E."

Reverse
the dividers, being careful not

legs,and

and

result in the finished

lined

150

line
straiglit

of

Across

seen

Draw

Of

keep trying

"B,"

explanation.

same

place

the pattern, only

on

as

150 and

"A."

at

"C."

diagram

diagram

size stick.

to

diagram

interfere

get the

tain
ob-

152.

for

and

from

in

ruling,as

is shown

diagram
how

see

"C"

and

dividers

the

place it that

so

DIAGRAM

This

B,

at

the

the stick.

centre

judgment

lines, use
cross

the

152, after

to about

trying,but

fit from

long ends will

register2 sizes on

In laying out

the

point of toe

point

on

diagram

the first time

until the

will

the other

the standard

"A"

105

bulge. Then find one-half, as

length of the 4-C complete. Reverse
short end must
be just 2 sizes on the

the

not

Patterns.

of heel

centre

and

Shoe

"C," diagram 152, and

at

Next

and

150.

end

Then

of quarter

at

measure
measure

"K."

one
on

space

line

Reverse

to

the

the

move

from

from

centre

"E"

centre

dividers

to
to

and

Designing,Cutting,and

io6

line

to

up

line

on

space

On

17 and

sizes from

to understand

short

stick,if the dividers

the entire

end

length of

pair of small

the standard

the

run

in

For

the

Continue

1-16

17, when

that increases
as

that is the
153

of

well

as

end

the

size

on

short
the

ured
meas-

end

had
So

same.

the largerand

as

on

dividers.

sizes, change the

of the dividers

end

the sizes

dividers

are

set

will be

with

8
4, 5, 6, 7 and
just as they now

the
are

are,

2.

leg of the dividers half way between

one
place,and space out and in from
until reaching lines 18 and
all around

inch

an

1-8 inch
same

been

long

have

long end; reversing,and

is

whole

the sizes

decreases

or

short

get sizes 3 and

and

size in any

point.

correct,

4.

half sizes put

the whole
that

4 and

The

of the

While
line

on

the

one-

153.

dividing between,

obtained.

have

justas

answer

quarter
on

just one-fourth
end

took

ones.

Set the fulcrum

short

and

quarter

the model.

152 for the

DIAGRAM

Having

from

that since you

result would

dividers

expensive

inch

diagram
registeringtwo sizes
been long enough to

had

4 sizes the

measured

3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and

just 1-4

out

length of the standard

of dividers, the

more

with

on

size 8, four

It will be easy

so

18 mark

have

now

half the

and

i.

lines

leg.You

"L"

at

as

Grading

eadi

size,on

each

just 1-8 inch,

quarter makes

1-4

on

side,
which
both

as

is
and

gram
the ball of the last changes in sizes. Dia-

will show

lined part of the way

the

quarter

around.

spaced

whole

sizes

and

Boot

To

the

keeping

This
Should
the
on

as

desire
work

division,you

seen

at

grade

in

as

full

lining is

and

at

diagram
height.
that if you

use

top leave

it until

settingthe

dividers

of

At

the

grade

the

use
same
height you must
fly,{\yliningand drill lining.

One

less
be

can

the

on

on

seen

ters
quar-

top of the

the

on

only.

care

grade

front

the

lesser

ble.
possi-

the

at

153.

size,

4
as

of

8, making

or

in the

button

standard

matter

instead

"A,"

Remember

grade

then

set

the

use

107

their relative position

lesser

Patterns.

space

near

and

spacing

you

to

space

circles

last of the

top,
a

from

line

Shoe

and

thing to be said in favor of hand grading is that

the laps
grade the laps on all places where
the model
it
from.
If
be 5-16
pattern to work

all machines

left

are

lap
7

on

in that standard

8 woman's

or

it will be considerable

and

proportionally less

DIAGRAM

the

model

throws
with

Such

dividers.

Another
3 woman's,

hand

The

you

for,except by

use

at

present.
correct

the

The

when

into consideration,

laps

last very

and

machines

on

mould

it

been

trou'ble is that

call

is not

after which

have

how

set

with

the

on

on

do

size

standard

Radii

not

grade

system,

and

requirements

any

one

can

see

bv

and

size 8

the

all known

last
8

grade
uppers

as

the lasts

as

here

at

up,

of the lasts.

slow

to

illustrated

of the lasts
almost

fully
care-

graded

that is too

proportional system

as

this

another

carefully,
say size
in
ner;
grade
any man-

following the

we

the

much

grades

put the

standard

grades

possible. Place
how

he

always instructive.

are

get out

test

systems,

see

then

is to mould

test

then

make

as

and

tests

realize

not

unless

out

and

the

on

the size

on

sizes under

154.

would

of patterns

laps allowed,

no

or

One

size.
set

more

are
a

taken

glance.

Designing, Cutting, and

io8

In

diagram

"D";

at

scarcely

inch,

1-12

soft, stretchy

Do

kid

all

the

so

as

got from
which

the

select

used

and

lines do

no

1-6

then

and

all together.

practiced
takes
mis-

brush

or

shoes.
is 1-16

19 there

inch

patterns

alike, fold

are

piece of

155.

mark

the half vamp

around

Call

only

it

all

break

serve

to

154

will

of radiating

centre

as

as

154, after

diagram

from

work

lines sufficient to

injury,but

the

permits

all the vamp

as

and

formerly wlien

botli sides

the

the last,though the

for women's

had

we

the

the ball

at

is

grading

nowadays

as

working standard.
the point easiest to
Draw

lines.
many

hand

show

not

have

largeenough,

nearly all
by

quarters

two

tighteston

DIAGRAM

paper

the

where

be furnished
of the sole

grade

where

vamp,

to

shank

Therefore,
must

forgetthat at lines 18 and

Grade

folded

cut

were

of the

point only require

leather

and

not

grade.

its fullest measurement

centre

that

come

upper

be made

Curacoa

the

means

observed

largest sizes

to

"B"

at

measurement

It is often
that the

the

over

that

and

that

at

vamp

is at

last

is in the last 1-4 inch

quarters, while

two

is

the grade is really greater than

is in the sole.

grade

any

which

grade

the

just about

and

point,

"D"

at

yet

"B"

at

153

Grading

Too

curves.

make

sary
unneces-

apply

to

work.
The

lines

circular
corners

should

on

vamps

have

the

rounded
on

the

drawn

as

curve
or

to

It is best

same

lose the

until

quarters

of

amount

graded

larger sizes, while

sizes, and

diagram

vamps.

were

corners

in

same

we

the

the

stock
round
to

expect
amount

of

round

not

to

set

is out,

cut

ofif.

would

lap

be

the

stock

all

as

If

all

the

greater

same

in

dinary'
or-

the

on

all

folding the

edges.
Next

set

the

dividers

legs registerone-half

the

by diagram
standard,

152
as

so

from

that the long

"C"

to

"B,"

CHAPTER

GETTING

THE

LINING

FROM

Next
around

lines

radiating

draw

the

increase

also
fact

the

that

yet

from,

and

of

shoes

width

this

the

ways,

the

the

will

leg.

is not

be

must

will

be

for 3'ears

have

but

answered,
the

shoes

different
X^ext

the

of the

unless

in

spond;
corre-

it in all

require

the

of

aware

are

used

shoes

cut

to

different

the

to

parts

fittingroom,

or

the

other
lasts

the

on

words

the

that

so

they

fittingdepartment
patterns

cut

are

lasters
have

cannot
as

so

to

get
come

is

the

no

is

process

to

use

just

illustrate
the

in

same

grading

the
all

the

on

set, and

parts.
we

Centre

fly it

head

probably

lining, for

158.

In

shoes

the

that

how

must

we

be

and

nearly right.

There

on

the

together

somewhere

the

pulled

mark

157.

trouble.

endless

they

lasts

is to

right

DIAGRAM

there

centre

as

the

so

together

come

which

Though

as

out

got

and

always remembering

of patterns

set

WORKING

standard

after

quarters,

of the

grading

whole

they

the

the

157,

shown,

of

height

FLY,
INFANTS.

from

diagram
as

BUTTON

GRADING

lining

in

THE

AND

E,

get

shown

as

AND

will

we

XXV.

will

will
it to

make

get
one

very

the

fly

button

side, for
close

as

if centered

work

on

in

shown

both

in

the

sides.

diagram
cen:re

Use

of

1-32

grade

back

at

"A"

at

of

desires
these

to

Patterns.

leg,obtaining the
the full standard

159 shows
and

as

necessity

instructions

All

widths

the

in this

space

size,namely
Conceding that

to

that

8, first mould

next

from.

of

grade

to

grade

our

lasts

to

diagram. Any

the

supposed
girth.

in

lasts

first order

4 last and

all the

rest

who

one

from

158.

1-4 indh

get the quarters, vamp

Now

lined out

is similar

process

of women's

in

widths, and

balance

proportionalsystem should be able

kind of a pattern.
to apply it to any

this

use

to

DIAGRAM

same

1 1 1

fly.

by this system,
no

of

in front

Diagram
there is

Shoe

and

Boot

are

correct,

are

calls

get

out

for
a

that
E

much

other

grade
have

we

patterns,

standard.

liningand

pattern is very

to

From

parts

to

larger,of

the

all
1-2

that

grade
course,

Designing, Cutting,and

112

than

A,

an

from

sizes of lasts is 1-4 inch

Either
E

little from

or

too
to

the

thus, and

fit.

Or

the

grading

easiest and

best

and

ofifeach

it

on

to
on

down

or

the

to

get the

to

paper,

duplicateit

or

board
The

the

same

foregoing
result

as

as

taught by others, so
to the

diagram

cepted
ac-

was

got

were

did

board

or

mark

not

is to

Then

around

mark

this

course

aroimd

to

around

mark

down

cut

that, and

destroys

the set ready to get out.

so

your

If you

set of metal

your

does

method

the

Day
the

for instance
far

results in the

as

or

as

can

much

plained
lately ex-

yet there

of London;

proportional_sy stem

acquainted,

am

very

system

and
top of the leg,'

result entirely wrong,

160.

grading brings

of

method

illustrated by Mr.

difference,

gives a

cile
recon-

you

by hand, the

then

awl.

fine

Of

have

the

patterns.

and
some

metal

line and

with

is easy

from

159.

half size and

smallest.

the

same.

shoes

above

as

in

set

the outside

board

the

room.
fitting

of patterns

set

if the

blamed

were

laid to the

was

but you

want

can

of patterns

or

graded

How

of sets

way

size

the

grade

much

Thousands

by

sizes from

this process

piece to

the metal

the next

E, both

too

last.

DIAGRAM

cut

between

for years

lasters

is

in all directions,

Yet

the trouble

After

the A

other?

correct.

as

out

in A

get considerably

you

one

graded

from

ing
grad-

are

grade

A; yet the grade between

the

as

is obtained

grade

from

than

surface

the

to

greater

-width

gives it. You

large surface, and

very

much

of the last

mould

proportion

in

system

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as

Grading

be

seen

pays
not

no

is
as

tion
atten-

doing

this

illustrated

in

Boot

You

leg
be

will

of the

should

hold

should

be
shoe

the

on

smallest

top. This

at

good

fuller

than

infants'

grading

and

infants'

patterns

Then

is

best

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get

been

up.

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out

out

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as

all

This

set.

size

to

or

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getting

When

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out

stand-

out

get

file put

small

which

size

this

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on

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largest
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get

grade

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as

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the

from

smallest

result.

allow

difTerent

the

use

best, after

and

proper

working

when

use

160.

deemed

is
set

the

trueing
to

necessary

only

of infants'
for

them

tween
be-

bring

shoe.
appears

no

necessity

"proportional" system
in

the

many

size

proportional
a

to

results.

with

largest

largest size

obtaining

fear

There
the

leg

graded

small

out

the

with

has

the

proportion

method

smallest

mould

in

the

of

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as

through

flare of

most

generally supposed

good

satisfied

seem

last, varying

method

the

wrong,

In

top

DIAGRAM

of

course

clear

the

though

shoes,

machines

pieces

has

infants', where

but

a)t

sizes.

infants'

ard.

size

is of

5, which

size

Patterns.

character

all

in

much

Hand

the

general

same

of the

Shoe

that

see

'back

at the

and

cases.

any

of

going

further,

as

into
the

grading

rule

on

is carried

CHAPTER

THE

Next

OLD

with

the

Any

one

does

getting

the

quarter

the

throat.

when

reach

them

to

size

on

the

the

ideas
Of

size

bottom

the

the

lasts, but

the

individual

Some

that

body

much

grade

on

stock.

top

than

instep
(speaking

of trying
increase

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size

of the
that

of the

his

on

say

hand
to

they

want

by

grading

factory has

"o

its

the

7
any

also
own

or

can
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equipment

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and

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some

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ple
sam-

4,

or

sizes

resemble

say

the

1-2

keep

by
settle.

to

do

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not

down

large saving

method
in

height.

grade

from

larger

one

in

result

in

small,

very

purchase

if

course

it will

desire;

if

in

business

the

of

is decided

grade

generally

anything

leg

of

grade

the

Of

in

leg

other.

regulated

is

sHding

in

loses

or

and

difference

great

one-third

Then
to

gains

part

decides

say

be

patterns

of

2-3

particular place,

point
to

laying

point

the

is

detail

in

length,

size.

1-3

seems

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the

that

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each

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on

by

cut

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the

so

terns
pat-

stock

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and

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:n

from

Men's

bottom.

on

add

man's.

is

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as

definiteness

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shoe

to

reach

height.

according
a

leg,

the

whole

of

curve

curves,

on

witli

increase

have

not

in

In

all ways.

care

of

lines.

matter

front

of

and

patterns,

1-16

curve

has

always

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grade

is

it and

the

front

leg

is

of

quarter

height

the

which

they

is

much

who

buyer

shown,

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of

manufacturers

that

of

pieces,

of vamp

sizes

how

to

course

reach

quarter

that

stick,

end

grading
as

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up

the

joint

few

so

back

gradually

In

ments.
require-

to

around

space

quarter

pattern

of the

the

on

curve

it is like

what

mark

up

women's

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curve

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being put

inch

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character

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front

from

regard

you

judgment,

of

of

See

the

until

the

with

composed

needed.

themselves

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of lasts, for

inch,

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of

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out

make

say

more
are

of

1-8

bottom

Commence
much

practice.

gain.

inch

16

I-

need

times

at

and

satisfaction

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many.

combined

fully understand

instep

curve

the

by

of thumb,"

large quarter,

the

patterns)

used

itself, without

space

front

rule

partly

the

1-16

on

to

as

so

of women's

of

set

Then

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to

"rule

RULE.

diagrams.

your

along

line

Down

or

can

without

divider

and

with

of

you

well

as

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with

eye

system

system

Perhaps
just

inch

understand

not
a

INCH

1-16

by the

this

using

others,

it

old

"sliding" system,

certainly

bo

the

assisted

sometimes

some

OXE-SIXTEENTH

to

come

XXVI.

the
in upper

the
be

4
lated
regu-

machines.

of pattern

mak-

in

it

ing

is

of

maker

the

same

can

govern

Sometimes
he

lining
"

the

to

in

hand

size

set,

is

as

sets

of

widths;

and

simply

did

especially

often

done.
for

only

linings
sends

make

not

pattern

is

This

ter
quar-

the

that

tory,
fac-

pattern

but

alike,

small

orders

who

maker

pattern

of

part

manufacturer

on

and

accordingly.

ordering

has

in

satisfactory,

is

all

grade

outside

large

grade

his

sets

send

to

made

which

set

when

necessary

point

patterns

always

should

one

the

has

Patterns.

the

settling

factory

the

where

after

easy

Shoe

and

Boot

4-C

original

the

sets.

When

sizes

will

would
the

on

not

ends

run

the

of

be

much
So

also

in

all

get

them

get

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if

them
hand

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the

cut

In

instep

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of
Some

front

facings

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and

it

plain

side
the

use

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is

then

as

set

back

end

to

easy

then

facing;

straight

graded

shoe

and

patterns

is

width

lace

almost

it

involves

same

front

the

impossible.

is

want

of

if
it

it

quarter

if

one

machines

and

work

trouble

them

facing.

grade

ingly
correspond-

be

extra

the

on

full

as

est
larg-

more

must

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some

of

far

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that

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necessitates

width,

on

grading

perforated,

back

on

throat,

best
backs

but

grade

to

get

to

width.

grade

work.

but

turers
manufac-

some

vamps,

the

but

dividers

backs

Machine
be

is

front

with

the

as

same

the

fancy

on

course

top

the

from

are

of

outside

all

widths

they

of

The

generally

are

This

and

width

sizes.

the

hand,

by

work,
to

as

on

This

done

extra

back

quarters,

lengthened.
grading

in

them.

bring

grade

half

only

want

of

lengths

grading

so

grading

line.

the

changes

that

tips

the
it

same

is

well

the

perforations

edge
to

of

get

all

the

grade

tip,
will

if

to

not

except

CHAPTER

ONE

There

is

this

By

well.

of

even

got

only

standard
When

with

the

system

machine
and

sizes

may

moulded

entire

set

graded

which

last

that

proved

of

method

when

fit alike.

here

to

developed

referred

moulding

Having
turned

my

by the
model

good

lasts.

4-C.
of

Of

was

was

this

careful

in

inch

not

early

these

of

of

periments
ex-

moulding

to

last

I had

from

was

patterns

upper

set

shoes

make

to

making

to

the

quired
re-

as

made

on

woman's

7.
I

but

from,

experiments.
that

experiments

next

selected

and

of lasts

misses

11

that

last

the

factory

work.

is used

care

moulding
of

this

of

result.

correct

of

correct

of

amount

that

1-4

chapter

grade

I went

shoes,

making

not

the

From

straight grade
course

to

series

method

the

first

the

method

attention

In

the

161.

produces

correct

in

was

unknown.

reasonable

from

all will

forth

set

is

down

certainty that

DIAGRAM

equally

standard

or

up

lasts

smallest

or

and

one.

the
fit

will

largest

be

I demonstrated

tests

and

last, the

almost

was

all

far

so

only

sizes, provided

ten

any

the

and

ajbsolutelycorrect,

many

sizes,

\vhich

grading,

pattern

grade

but

then

the

is

that

that

it, and

grading

of

can

of ten

set

from

that

one

properly

Not

CORRECT.

method

one

system

graded

are

METHOD

is concerned,

grading

as

XXVII.

was

graded

lasts

right.
After
size

this

laid

all

7.

had

nine

aside

but

grades

the

size

between

11
or

and
ten

the

lasts.

man's
wo-

If

ii8'

Designing, Cutting,and

whole

14

in

measures

lines I termed
Now

the

of the

centre

chart,

and

I had

that

my

have

"

"

when
ninth
be

the

on

short,

grade

one

it

the

on

I got

lines

and

10

I,

it in

With

my

so

on

tack

up

to

I also numbered
dividers

the

on

grade

on

size

from

radii

the

7,

proceeded
I took

the

to

And

4 standard

my

size both

sides

except

back
the

I laid out
the

163
bulge
from

so

brought

on

the end

seen

that

so

centre,

Then

I drew

they were

as

same.

the

of

measure

Then

or

front.

run

measure

up
the

near

Then

the

line

on

the radii and

on

ruled

I had
out

run

one
i

up
out

line 3 and

on

the work.
to size 7,

just as the
the leg 1-16

top of

I had

the 4 and

7 out-

tops.

my

back

the

around

on

and

my
of

by

curve

vamp

straightline "A"

of heel
the

and

I took

lasts called for it,spacing at

each

according

long leg.
I merely

Then

before.

as

rectly
cor-

164.

of line

7.

14,

them

putting
pin in the

the top.

So

end.

taking measure

size 4 up

at

it,as
it

one-ninth, I took

on

on

short

would

grade

one

around

little radii, and

DIAGRAM

line

end

long

If I had

end.

intersected,placed

11

my

the

on

I wanted.

cut

4 and

the radii.

on

short

positionwith

lines 2, 3, and

grades

4-C standard, marked

diagram 162,

holding

nine

or

justwhat

was

Then
in

these

"Radii."

nine grades in a small chart, I could

^that is
proportional dividers on 9, or one-ninth
the short
one-ninth
the length of tlie long legs
legs
of the long legs would
result in oneany measurement

set

to

Grading

"A"

first drawing

from

size 4 standard, by
the

heel

of the vamp

forward

on

point of toe

to

diagram
to

taking 4 5-8
the

full of
inches

line B, for that

line to the centre

of the shank.

and

Boot

I measured

Then

end

for

Patterns.

I wanted

where

119

top of the

the

to

vamp

length.

I then
A"

"A

Shoe

divided

length of

the entire

standard

the

I drew

equal distances, after which

into three

angled line down

the

at

one-third,

rear

as

D.

at

seen

line

on

rig'ht
From

at E.
perpendicular line as seen
Now
divided.
divide
equally
gives
your
the straightline corresponding
largest size the same
way,
as to height at heel, diagram 164.

the

front

I drew

one-third

This

the

Next

cut

thirds

diagram 163, II.

the

Place

lap of quarter and

the

out

This

gives you
163, or

standard

of the 4 will be

164,

so

that

seen

at

A, diagram 164.

the

toe

The

correspond,as

lines at C should
the

from

to

K.

Next

lines L
lines upon

lines,as

each
at

seen

one

other.

O, and

upon

down

will have

with

the size 4.

is not

with

the eye, and

deficiency is made

up

is correct

to

or

upper

If
4

the

if the

vamp

by the quarter.

The

fit on

and

for vamp.

then

dotted
the

with
rest

be

pendicular
per-

straight

of the

line

rear

the

size 7 vamp

If it should

vamp

closely

little out

is deficient
entire

it
the

standard

the last.

foxing is desired, first lay out

standard,

7 until

the

through

mark

line, and

the other

corresponding
detected

Then

the

on

Mark
you

diagram
straightline,as
the straightlines

the front perpendicular

solid

slit the 4

are

of

another.

one

E, 164,

to

on

through.

see

size 7,

163.

B, 164; and

be upon
D

from

vamp

at

to

in

seen

the

on

heel end

DIAGRAM

should

hole

size 4,

as

vamp,

try the
It is much

means

easier

the

foxing in
just employed
than

the size
secting
in dis-

it appears;

but

Designing, Cutting,and

I20

like almost

become

practice to
It is the

nothing

but

same

one

can

as

that

see

boot

no

require

may

low

on

with

for

cut,

laps

are

graded,

but

low

off.

the

leg cut
fitting
qualitieson

the

to

process,

siderable
con-

expert.

process

high

insured

mechanical

other

any

Grading

We

cut

is
ways
al-

are

the last, and

any

only body

of the

the

size 7

pattern.

getting the large size

After

the size 4

standard, and

from

7 quarter

ard,
the size 4 stand-

large quarter from

large one, then place the 4 inside,as

all
illustrated
by diagram 165, dividing the difference
make
convenient
to
about
it more
around
equally,so as to
in
grade. It will be noticed that whole sizes only are shown
mark

around

the

DIAGRAM

165, but

diagram

would

diagrams
sizes would
The
to

the small

quarter

each

on

that

sizes, or

are
we

3 and

the

line.

2.

such

of the

engraver

fine work

positionsfrom
frequent enough only to

7 and

After

have

now

grades.

mark

on

grading

size 4 and
Set the

half

as

on

from
smaller

sizes

large
the

7. Of

then

the 4, get the

7 to 4,

the

break

course,

viders
proportional di-

dividers, and

the other

of size 4 until the necessary

a

do

obliged to

three

one-third

the

long leg

be

that the

so

lines at the various

Notice

on

done

was

represent.

that is four

on

not

cross

curves.

this

165.

run
are

on

with

one

divisions
the

inside

obtained,

say

There

of

set

well

is

often
In

and

facing,
In

is

parts

no

may

if

seen

on

continuation
make

to

one

can

be

preferred

of

full

positive
if

as

they

because

so

Yet
in

out

of

the

and

top

machine

comparison

all

and

any

the

there,

grown

rapid

purpose.

width.

one

that

grading.

machine

getting

as

across

the

out

get

assurance

had

lines,

the

every

dissection

the

quarters.

Ruling

when
set

laid

vamps

the

ruling

patterns

whole

the

as

answers

Then

the

with

do

corners.

method

this

together

all

set

keep

with

in

curves

between.

with

made

the

size

and

standard
on

the

of

rest

preferred,

fact,

short

break

to

grade

come

slow

whole

set

something
grading
with

this

method.
A

for

as

principle

same

largest

run

the

getting

will

and

required

is

largest

the

on

the

use

enough

fly

set

would

other

the

to

the

shows

166

grading

for

It

quarters,

idea,

the

that

all

is

the

121

quarters.

Diagram
out

of

toe

show

to

Hning

and

spacing

the

at

sufficient

165,

diagram
of

lines

are

Patterns.

Shoe

and

Boot

good

grading

oftentimes

people

many
who
fail

do
to

using

thoroughly

not

obtain

are

as

gfood

results

various

the

understand
as

thev

machines

them,
might.

and

CHAPTER

GRADING

WIDTHS.

At

the

SOME

the

time

invented

misses'

in

and

at

he

asked
but

him
it

how

Men's

lasts

the

to

meant

change

made

once

in

Grading
be

must

be

can

from

the

us

of

the

have

applied

both

to

that
No

of

grade

grade

is.

width

has

Not

on.
two

shoes

or

one

made

ence

Some
to

six

get

with
on

to

than

the

widths

by

is

complete

be

upper

of

of

shoes,

and

fussing
less

nothing
sets

up

of

and

in

and

tainty
cer-

and

down,

if each
answers

it is

in

ing
mak-

children's

on

only

the

of

width

they

that

widths

is used

the

has
inite
def-

what

also

of

widths

what

he

sole

and

three

crossing

ankle.

patterns
be

to

seem

dififer-

isfied
sat-

vamp

fitting.

expensive

lasts

certain

what

widths,

being

and

it be

person

with

one

width,

two

get

one

know

to

insole

only

and

last.

or

let

and

upon,

same

pattern

foot

unless

is

if it does,

for

used

use

cutting

there

whether

in

full

the

upon

widths,

worked

lasts

from

that

be

foot, then

the

last, and

in

that

the

let there

the

so

angle

an

particular.

every

and

straight
at

settled

the

or

There

means

across

it is
necessary

manufacturers

quarter

There

is often

ing
mak-

now

means

for

alike,

patterns

widfh,

more

in

in

infrequently

last

ball"

far forward

so

last

its own,

sets

who

measurements

ball, then

another

to

this

one

much

very

understood.

measure

himself

lasts

of

ishing,
fin-

ilar
sim-

very

all

before

definitely

and

grade

sole

well

diagonal

agree

doing

than

more

used

In

know,

manufacturers

If it

ball

foot, and

the

the

except

nearly

the

is

satisfied

means

when

not

been

not

are

settled

position

foot

should

one

some

for

have

both

they

did

graded

last

outside

certain

the

the

measure

by

the

positive position

has

understood.

to

been

the

"around

we

at

So

polishing.

lasts

point

measuring

heel, and

When

can

If

he

me

balls, and

inch.

left them,

generally

so

ball

told

grades.

If

let it be

inside

but

Lynn
the

said

of

sets

3-16 grade

the

in

one

he

there

peg

is not

positive angle.
let

of

definite

then

around,

and

OF

many

across

time

long

grade?,

accepted.

lasts

and

finer

widths

of

shaving

grade,

the

some

the

maker

1-16

turning

specialty

efforts

with

1-12

for

finest

turned

lathe

have

present

in the

system,

soles

graded
the

as

which

one

WIDTHS

Radii

last

women's

he

just

was

time

THREE

MEASURE.

were

children's

and

1-14,

lasts

that

graded

misses'

ONLY

HEEL

and

that

USE

PATTERNS.

women's

girth,

XXVIII.

to

complete

shoe
sets

manufacturer
of

patterns,

all

when

things

Feet
and

are

much

of the

are

ball do

Few

style shall

the

for

to

try

middling long

Some
this

overcome

that varied
A

but

majority of
much

too

connection

who

will

When

the

in like

more

of

set

last
at

No

any

is

how

to

them.

He

may

have

certain

just as

essential

To

get

necessary
proper

some

the

one
a

more

After
it is easy

model

will

heel

him

strapping

in widths

to

than

new

any

does

fit the

moulding
lasts.

know

not

has

width
in

ball

as

model

one

is needed

be

absolutely

how

to

get

have

or

standard

must,

correct.

And

will do

this

size of each
in

is

measure.

get up,

may

This

should

pattern

it is

pattern

what

standards.

either know

manufacturers

what

patterns from

size and

know.

gently
intelliings.
mould-

for lasts until he

does

last he

man

complete

used

repeated

measure

to

if his

be

to

until he

maker

decide

see

give

set

of upper

of the

progressiye last
enoug'h to

width

him

good fittingshoe

and

good

similar

models

Heel

who

extent,

in

friend

size of each

with

certain

measure

from

in

you

upon
the

the pattern

as

away

them

last model

standard
near

so

standards

last of

ing
tak-

ditions
con-

give

before

measure.

for

the

for

certain

the

does

from
a

heel

come

be

models, but he

get for shoes

by

is successful

difficulties.

marked

correct

make

found

is caused

all lasts of each

This

pattern from
a

that

capable of making

get

I have

toe.

of

widths.

factory,where

must

mould

each

time.

the

grade widths, it is advisable, after

to

that

sure

moulds,

knows

troubles

idea of the work

man

will

in another

positions. Nothing

correct

grow

last down

not

that

pattern

of your

lasts, to

be

carefully,to

it would

to

short

cutting

patterns

sense

preparing

measuring

curves

In

out

you

all wrong

common

help

in

trouble

different.

are

this

the

most

our

granted.

be

factory may

one

the

for

thus

as

one

wider

liable

are

being wholly on the

3-16 grade between

the last, the increase

lasts

the

seen.

widths

vamp,

all of

prominent manufacturers
by increasing the length
difficulty

of

in

again,

that

But

is often

prominent,

too

Then,

spring?

spring

toe

any

is, the parts back

insisted

have

toe

same

and

sides.

the

lace

lasts where

have

other.

the instep of the wider

far ahead

on

and

button

That

each

manufacturers

have

Again,
chance

in measurement,

as

by which

part.

resemble

width, the greater the

too

well

as

factories

rear

same

not

few

how

widths,

shape
readiness

for the

trouble.

sets

of the

to

patterns

adapted to size and shape of feet by moving the

have
and
leaving the lace to adjust itself,we would

more

two

in

much

it not

buttons

123

considered, provided lasts and

are

var}'

were

shoes

he

Patterns.

right.

are

Shoe

and

Boot

soon.

width,

getting out

terns
pat-

Designing, Cutting,and

124

Pattern
which
the

requires

fittingroom.
the

the

maker

should

in correct

are

heel

The
from

visit the

the

bottom

of

measure

should

be

the
1 1

width
should

last

on

inch

be 5-16, while

and

Where

then

well to be
holds

width
any

in

putting

pattern

notice

and

if buttons

is reckoned

the throat

at

the upper

and

the

to

counter

this measurement
less

run

of

is in

each

on

widths

the

the increase

rower
nar-

increase

should

be

200.

5-16,and on EE the increase would be

3-8,although in regular width grading generally
than

the

5-16 increase
grading widths
is generallyworn

to

In

fession
pro-

boots.

boot

wider

width

DIAGRAM

little more

quarter

on

on

room

pattern

4-C button

often

woman's

inches, and

1-2

5-16

work

failure.

the button

of the

curve

maker's

that

be

fittingroom

of the last at the heel.

under

turns

of

will

positions on

sharpest

become

years,

pattern

requirements

together,his patterns

uppers

few

thoroughly practical knowledge

Unless

with

harmony

within

making has,

Grading

for each

by

swell at the calf,and

width.

the top of the

on

slim

leg,AA
who

woman

the top should

not

or

AAA

scarcely

has

be increased

in

is almost

EE

or
wearing
proportion,whereas a woman
top of the leg
always fleshy and has a large calf,hence
this is
Of
should
be larger than
course
a
regular grade.
understand
in grading, but any
can
not
one
always done
lace for
the
button
that it is likely to 'be proper.
or
Again
an

fastening

and

to

comes

our

relief,for buttons

be

can

moved

be left open.

lacing can
The grading

of widths

in women's

shoes

is

matter

of

Designing, Cutting,and

126

wider

widths

will be

cut

widths

will be

left too

lining of the
line up
standard

as

lines will
of the

run

until

SS.

at

standard

until the throat

up

the two

make

At
on

the

the
each

leg

width
A

as

be

cut

keep all the

grading
none,
to

are

to

be

By

each

much

as

cheaply

larger
down

governed
these

you

inch

Then

line down

to

each

KK

the

the front

width, being

and

moving the
the instepline

on

horizontal

TT,

Then

and

space

line W,

draw
up

resting

it away

and

yond
befor

down

please.
is
as

generally preferred.
possible, it is well

widths

the

the
throat, shifting

strikes

at

as

side.

of 1-16

space

sihoes must

at

parent
ap-

202.

top of the leg draw

highest points

two

The
and

line.

DIAGRAM

the

rower
nar-

It is 'best to

is reached.

Then

curve

continuous

it.

on

of

curve

the

bottom.

simple

very

the throat

shown

as

to

so

dwell

i-8 inch
leg, spaced at KK
to guide by the spacing at

careful

and

is
to

the toe

necessary,
out

full at extreme

necessary

the front from

this point, and

at

of widths

grading

that it is not

under

Grading

the

same

height

widtlis.

narrower

If

the

sometimes

grade

and

Such

matters

entirelyby conditions.

general

rules

and, provided

widths
your

will all have

semblance,
family re-

women's
men's, 'boys',

and

and

Boot

lasts

misses'

Shoe

Patterns.

in width

or-raded 1-4 inch

are

inch, the patterns will fit all widths

Diagram
EE

down

to

bottom

the

in this

EE

EE

of
not

as

instep, across

diagram

to

to
at

seen

the

in

K, diagram

widths

very
in

rapidly,
diagram 201

line,thus

will

inch

to

the

the width

the

on

is

who

much

so

less

201.

and
all of

of the

In this,as

graded

methods

used

AA

on

at

The

well.

look

be

may

point of

the

end

quarters

at

Also

equal length.
line G

the
row
nar-

on

narrower

to

only 1-16

increases

vamp

it is also

point of

1-32

inch

to

width.

There

are

other

grading widths,
further.
the

as

the

one

any

is

drawn

been

them

keeping

and

is better.

that the EE

that the throat

see

pattern

shorter

that the

rapidly

too

Notice

X.

by
and

diagram

widths

wide

on

to

203.

seen,

same

of quarters

result of this method

noticed

in

perpendicular line has

you

is the

many

and

of patterns,

shown

at

the

quarter

all widths

The

often

method

the

on

in widths

way

it will be noticed

202

wider

quarter grows

quarter

top,

quarter graded up

at

202.

shown

method

diagram

the

to

necessarily cause

seen

as

DIAGRAM

In

front of the

the

I^ must

longer

grow

4 C

same

AA

grading.

now

than

The
have

to

from

graded

grading

200.
as

the

grading in width is not

"up" in the knowledge

work

the

so

shows

down

are

quarter

AA

the

diagram

202

and

makers

quarter

back,

1-12

alike.

length.

same

Diagram
4

the

trhe soles

and

the

Up

in standard

as

is graded

AA.

down

and

same

shows

201

127

One

legs of

case

sizes

may

do

but

method

it

seems

used

be, consequently
not

stand

with

like

to

unnecessary

by

many,

the different sizes further

the

results

forward

or

legs of the shoes

pitch.

makers

by pattern
in

in

illustrate

throwing

back,

as

the

in different

Designing,

28

In

the

grading

width

of

common

sense

In

in

alignment,

to

only

the

and

in

AA

and

inch

the

and

one-half

so

vamp,

is illustrated

Next

refer

the

width

inch

and

of
the

line
the

quarter,

front

of

necessity

the

of the

further

diagram

to

at

retains
for

the

lining
is

lining

Notice

that

at

grade

is the

same

the

At

as

is 1-8

and

the

of

widths

HHH

the

It is only

fold

on

diagram

line.

This

to

as

203

explanation
HHH

of

quarter
to

the

inch, while

length

graded
back

in

for

204

same

At
inch.

1-32

cut

from

previous

C.

monize.
har-

not

clude
pre-

explanation.

lining pattern.
grade

will

graded

the

work

you

204.

plainly

so

in

as

to

as

which

vamp

it is only

DIAGRAM

grading

the

it is

quarters,

curves

your

standard

at

by

quarter

showing

the

use

making.

pattern

of

been

free

made

successful

is shown

I have

likewise

curve

if it is twisted

extreme

graded

to

front

203

described

have

standard

diagram

is 1-16

grade

the

for

EE,

the

keep

to

In
4

down

lining

necessary

necessity

"

Grading

here

system

lasts, but

by the

entirely guided

and

Cutting,

match
the

quarters.

heel

at

the
near

is

the

where

the

1-16

dicular
perpen-

it meets

compare.

grade

in

grade

grade

lining
must

of

of the
bottom

The
vamp.

the

CHAPTER

XXIX.

BUTTON

GRADING

the

Probably
been
a

the

few

to

to

go

will

we

the

but

at

of

front, and

top

is

quarter

grading

In
the

in

along

of

the

the

front

front

diagrams

stock
on

shown
the

AA,

cut

back,

the

so

lines.
in

Cut

that
Next

diagram

place

ends

205.

button

each

fly as

far

back

of

lined;

as

see

A, B, C, D, E, EE.

these

requirements
Next

DIAGRAM

out

the

bottom

instep line, leaving plenty of paper

or

place

widths

around

the

is

Dia.20S.

205.

lines.
205

Next

first

the

flys, by marking
way

require

various

;])ia^OJ.

DIAGRAM

will

has

satisfactory it

so

matter.

short

width

properly

result

of the

fronts

this

the

each

cut

the

desired, to get

the

as

of

part

illustrate

bottom

and

grade

quarters

To

diagrams,

extra

well

difficult

most

fly.

button

FLY.

flies out,

they
get,

as

the

to

say,

and

205,

so

duplicate

in

the

cut

width,
cut

lines, leaving plenty of

diagrams

then

sweep,

fly

the

on

resemble

being

205,
of

back

of

cut

fly

it to

as

suit

etc.

front

as

seen

in

diagram

Designing,Cutting,and

Gradine

Dta^oj.

DIAGRAM

205.

DIAGRAM

205.

Di

DIAGRAM

205.

DIAGRAM

205

a.

2 OS.

and

Boot

206
the

one

leg to

width.

If

from

inch

suit your

the

careful

curve

is reached.

until

Then,

to

the

formed

other,

the 4 C

as

the

and

lioldingall firmlyin

one-

1-16 inch,
the

throat

the

grade
perpendicularline,
desire on the instepline.

down

the grade

reached

1-16

is about

legs in width

of

of each

place them

leg.
keep the front equidistantuntil
Just below that we will reduce
up

front

regarding the grade

Grade

slidingeach

have

we

of each

edges

131

down

space

been

not

of the

being

trifle by

has

Patterns.

the

ideas

own

opinion

an

half the width

other, with

the

upon

Shoe

on

we

place,drive

needle

through

the

Dia.^oi,

two

DAIGRAM

205.

HH.

Of

marked

placed in the

seen

at the

in

upon

diagram

the

other

and
207,
marked

bottom,

after

up

207.

about
the

which

"K."

original,which

Now

flies
and

one

upon

the

Have

backs

the lower

1-32 inch,

instepa
drive
you

206.

afterwards, they

course,

if desired
originalposition

through them all.

Again place the
being

DIAGRAM

more

two
by sticking

the

other, the

not

yet

ends
or

needles
them

remove

in this instance

is

cut

to

seen

through
all,and

may

pins

widest
line

lying back,

less, as

little further, as
the

all be

may

as

one

sired,
be de-

in

diagram
places
taking your
the

C, lay it down

on

the

132

Designing, Cutting,and

Grading

Dia^o7

DIAGRAM

DIAGRAM

DIAGRAM

207.

208.

DIAGRAM

208

208.

Designing, Cutting, and

134

KK

lay the

then

board, and

Grading

C, 205, with holes pricked

HH,

at

der
directlyunhaving the front, top and bottom
the
Now
the 205, mark
holes.
through
prick
4 C
your
of back
originalis all ready to get the corresponding curve

and

on

and

width.

each

Next

take
C

original4
HH

in the

original4
the

whole

in holes

back.
the

the

on

length.

EE

Next

Repeat

the

mark

the

around
than

back

use

the

operation with

each

of the

half way

down
the pins

finish the top

to

width, and

then

of
cut

of each.

See

the best

diagram
There

widths

pins through the

corresponding holes

little more

DIAGRAM

in

the

repeat the operation with

Afterwards

KK.

back

push
through the

down

after which

EE,
C

205, and

EE,

and

by

208.

results of width

grading

of flies

as

shown

to EE.

208

AA

are

those

who

after

little slippingand

the

much
use

experience grade
of the eye.

show
to
the grading in
hardly necessary
of
widths
generally kept all the
top facings,as they are
in width and merely grade in their length. The same
same
be said as to the flyliningsas they are
generallygot
may
the flies. If a small
from
lining is wanted, or if using a
It

large
the

seems

and

small

conditions

lining pattern,
of the

which

seems

factory will permit, it

advisable
is best

to

if
cut

Boot

both

them

just

at

correspond
cut

are

at

would

though

the

the

system

to

great

factor

as

apply
is

sense

careful

to

in

spacing

widths

1-8, 3-16,

1-6,

Have

any

made

them

them,

on

be

expended

in

be

scalloped,

it is

best

eye,

by

first
after

with

which
and

lay

Some

as

then

in

to

paper

by

test

proper

Low
model

cuts

width
will

you
the

grading
used

or

low
in

find
of

heel
cuts

grading

in

scallops

in

[the

lop
scal-

or

dime,

vider
di-

vamps

on

the

is

always

set

the

not

largest
the

in

patterns,
and

paper

and

vamp

test

width.

Use

cannot

one

get

pieces.
width

one

fairly
increase
In

quarters.

widths,

to

the

but

for

fly

desire.

of

size

would

bottom

from

kind,

work

they

soles

widths

may

the

out

you

cutting

bound

will

3-32,

you

then

cuts,

model

graded

they

so

prdbaibly

rear

the

1-12,

cent,

quarters

this

lows,
fol-

as

that

and

copper

carefully

of

be

can

by

the

of

set

1-16,

top

time,

the

have

laying

the

saves

with

trying

In

grade

cut

anything

test

of

be

intends

one

is saved

chisel

your

paper

carefully

as

of

proved

fit, comparing

the

at

be

may

just

aid

This

width

each

out

makers

pattern

correct,

lay

these

must

one

first, then

at

time

much

number

machines.

grading

of

the

out

the

deep

how

see

to

It

inch.

dividers.

setting

to

both

arranged

1-32,

perfect

and

cut

Common

If

and

steel,

1-3

very

when

from

but

to

emergency:

and

line

grading.

correctly.

sheet

front

could

man

convenient

very

5-16

1-4,

depend

always

is
from

for

ready

be

to

it

is

duplicates.

grading,

grade

paper

too,

exact

width

width

lasts

made

points

necessity

all

the

Then,

ordinary

in

the

that

see

grading

of

of

reduce

quarter.

are

135

thickness

Then

small

they

Patterns.

double

single.

the

once

seem

hints

as

with

Shoe

for

once,

quickly

as

and

you

end.]

well
too

using

grade

widths.

each

on

way

on

the

rapidly
the
the

from

lasts, but
in

machine
same

the

height
for

ple
princi-

APPENDIX.

CONVENIENT

RACK

here

diagram

The

and

number,
be, may
the

system,

Each

all

each

No.

find
"

Now

S-C."

then

set

is wanted.

"

12-B."

the

it intersects

"

letters
In

We

21.

look

we

over

We

is
the

look
at
at

find

We

look

on

line

we

find

the

set.

The

apparent.

numbered

the

at

and

D,

so

on,

resent
repbook

the

lowest.

Suppose

we

and

see

book

pigeon

21,

hole

on

line
have

we

indexed

holes

number

at

C," and

in the
of

to

recorded

in

"

it.

to

memorandum

small

with

cross

"

is

may

stranger

accustomed

one

proximity

No.

an

tinct
dis-

there

many

entire

numerically

is

line.

5, and

181

it is at

set

by

pigeon

have

to

how

arrangement

commencing

set,

to

figure

end

supposed

matter

no

by

as

of the

that

on

in immediate

hanging

it is in

the

at

is

of

arrangement

an

moment

hole

pigeon

top, while

want

well

as

simplicity

extreme

of

in

is

set

set,

any

placed

be

shown

Each

holes, for patterns.

PATTERNS.

FOR

12,

book
and

of
it.

that
where

INDEX

Pace.

Page.

Appendix

137

Beading,
Button

boot

the

46

top

...

Climax

Button

fly.Getting the

Button

fly,Grading

Buttons

36

about

rolled

with

boot,

Button

words

few

42

Mutton

shoe. To

Button

shoes

get

with

Grading

upper

Grading

widths

Grading

widths

at

Grading

widths

not

102
.

patterns

100

122

of

top

leg

'

generally understood

-4

122

16
...

the

110

right position

in

radii system

The

Grading,

12

linings for

out

seamless

vamps

vamp

Heel

measure

button

35
123

88

man's,

Half

35

Infants'

grading best

Hand

shoes.

on

113

Introduction

Cement,

Use

Climax

linings

Circular

glue

or

Lasting men's

iS- 59

Lasts, graded

lining, To
quarters

get

a
.

31.
of

sets

and

lasts

Congress,

man's

Congress,

woman's

Congress,

Kitting

Congress,

Lasting

serge

man's

avoid

Woman's

fullness

in

the

leather

rounded

Curve,

The

Dividers,

Dongola
Dongola

boot,

E.

vamp

97

Low

cuts

Low

cuts,

Low

cut,

How

cut.

How

bead

gypsy

boot

from

Oxford,

Fly, The
Floor

lining of

Foxed

lace

shoes,

drawing

Men's

shoes,

fittingthe button

shoes,

getting the

shoes,

getting the standard

shoes.

The

25
6

quarter
seam,

pattern. The

90

crooked

12

Men's
Men's
Misses'

Napa
New

59
for welts

57

89
89

the

to

80

perpendicular

the

back

S3

fly

80

of

curve

quarters

shoe, similar

Moulding

68
.

Men's

50

Front

69
.

the

Men's

shoe

Front

stitch

to

Congress

59

lace

'35

last the

Men's

quarters

Front

graded
to

11

the

line. Getting

how

pattern

32

16

67

33

Men's
.

no

through

Uxford

65

Fly linings

the

McKay

1 10

An

McKay

lady's

E., Working

Even

Lining, Grading

104

...

button

shoes

59

Linings, Vamping

Low

27

ladies'

95

proportional

beaded

for

77

Getting the leg

3
100

flylining

curve

95

20

loi

turning

last

Linings, Circular

off

of
.

97

.44

Corners

Leather

100
loi

the

Leg

man's

To

shoe,

Congress,

Creole

patterns

of

sets

width

Lasts, Trying
Last, Moulding

123

fit sole

to

14

The

89

shoes

Lasts, Grading

Lathe,

uniform

not

54

not

patterns

expensive

Congress

-3

--"

Cloth

Complete

Lap

59

corners

Cloth

required

42
.

vamp

Closing rounded

5^'

boot

button

Circular

paste

or

no,

80
.

82

of

woman's

57

...

last

flylining

49

.67

facts
...

Newport
Grading

by hand

."

Grading

by radii system

Grading

infants'

Grading

for

Grading

machines.

Grading,

The

half

too

.104

slow
....

sizes

107

Opera

no

Oxford,

slippers

75

McKay

59

106

The

correct

69

button

Cote

102

method

Grading, The

old

Grading, The

proportional system

one-sLxteenth

inch

rule

...

Pattern

grading machines

116

Patterns,

Grading

114

Patterns,

graded

I02

Pattern

making

upper
to

fit lasts

profession

10

100

100

124

Index.

Continued.
"

Page.

Cloth

Quarters,

3''

Fixed

Quarters,

Page.

54

Sandals

Strap

73

"

59

Tips
Front

Quarters,

and

back

79

39
The

graded

Quarters

down

to

AA

Cote

grading

machine

102

127
....

Tongue
Whole

Quarters,

Rolled

Rounding

boot

Button

top.

off

Sandals,

How

Sandals,

Strap

southern

tie,

whole

-71

60

with

46

corners

Top

facing

Top

facings.

Top

switch

27
Width

grading

of,

not

sary
neces-

134

21

fit

to

grading

pattern

on

machines.

The

72

loi

"

Sandal,

Two

strap
done

Scalloping

73

poorly

74

Vamping

through

36

Vamping

and

14

Vamp

28

Vamps,

Concerning

Vamps,

Grading

lining.s
hand

no

16

shear

work

56
....

allowance

Seam
Seamless

for

vamp

Sewed

linings

circular

59
men's

85

...

circular

McKay

vamp,

width

of,

grading

on

chine
ma-

...

Side

lace

The

shoe,

"Sliding"
Slippers,

not

37

Opera

34

Vamps,

75

Vamp,

correct

Men's

135
and

right

Seamless

left

whole

or

87

foxed

.28
...

Small
Small

linings,

Beading

quarters.

Southern

button

Southern

tie

obtain

To

the

16

off

12

Standard,

Dissecting

Standard,

Getting

the

height

Stitching

the

in

fly

The

closed

heel

87

shoes

S4"

Whole

foxed

Whole

quarters

Widths

Woman's

70

the
.

Standard

Welt

72

67,

Vamp,

have

57
28

vamp

60

family

resemblance

126

...

America

24

Woman's

leather

opera

Congress
slippers,

44
Of

the

work

75

on
.

UNITED SHOE
MACHINERY
MANUFACTURERS

LICENSORS

AND

FOLLOWING

NOTED

CO.

SHOE

OF

THE

MACHINERY

The Goodyear
Shoe Machinery
System,
The McKayShoe Machinery
Specialties
:
RAPID

STANDARD

UNIVERSAL

NAILING

TAPER

NAIL

STAPLE
NEW

RAPID

HEEL

ROTARY

HEEL
SPRING

MACHINE,

SLUGGING

LOOSE
TWIN

SCREW

MACHINE,
MACHINE,

TACKING

FASTENING

MACHINE,

MACHINE,

LOADING

AND

ATTACHING

TRIMMING

AND

RANDING

HEEL

TRIMMING

MACHINE,
MACHINE,

MACHINE.

The Consolidated,
and
Chase,
McKayGopeland,
BostonLasting
Machines,
The Daveyand McKayPeggers,
The Eppler
Welt System,
The GoddiiMetal Fastening
System.
ADDRESS

McKAY

SHOE

GOODYEAR
GENERAL

'r"=r

MACHINERY

SHOE

DEPARTMENT,

MACHINERY

OFFICES

AND

86

DEPARTMENT,

LASTING

MACHINERY

Lincoln Street,
Boston.
100-104

Bedford

Boston.
Street,

U.S.A.
DEPT.,111 LincolnSt.,
Boston,

UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CD,

'r-r

LIBRARY

OF

CONGRESS

iiil
III
III
IIII
ill
II
0

018

457

180

"

n-^^:"