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z
crest
c
a
still water
line (SWL)
trough
sea bottom
H
a
L
T
=
=
=
=
=
c
cg
d
k
u
w
ax
az
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
displacement of the water surface, varies with time and location, (meters, feet, etc.)
wave height, constant with time at a given location, (m, ft)
wave amplitude (m, ft) ( a = H / 2 for linear waves)
wave length (m, ft)
wave period, time required for one complete wave to pass a fixed point (seconds,
minutes, hours)
wave frequency = 1/T (cycles/sec = Hertz, Hz)
wave circular or radian frequency = 2/T= 2f (radians/sec)
wave celerity or wave speed, c = L/T (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
wave group velocity (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
water depth (m, ft, fathoms (fm) = 6 ft)
wave number = 2/L (m-1, ft-1, etc.)
water particle velocity in the x (horizontal) direction (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
water particle velocity in the z (vertical) direction (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
water particle acceleration in the x (horizontal) direction (m/sec2, ft/sec2, etc.)
water particle acceleration in the z (vertical) direction (m/sec2, ft/sec2, etc.)
Wave Displacement
= a cos( kx t )
Wave Number
k = 2 L
Radian Frequency
= 2 T
Dispersion Relation
2 = gk tanh( kd )
Shallow Water
d/L < 1/20, 0.05
d/(gT2) < 0.0025
Wave Speed
L
c = = gd
T
Wave Length
L = T gd
Wave Period
Group Velocity
T=
L
gd
cg = c
Intermediate
0.05 < d/L <1/2
L
=
T k
g
tanh( kd )
=
k
c=
L=
L=
cg =
Deep Water
d/L > 1/2
d/(gT2) > 0.08
c = cO =
gT 2
2d
tanh
L
2
2L
g tanh(2d L)
4d L
c
1 +
2 sinh( 4d L)
L
=
T
L=
T=
gT 2
2
2L
g
cg =
c
2
cosh (kd )
cosh (kz + kd )
= a
cos(kx t )
sinh (kd )
u=
cosh (kd )
sinh (kz + kd )
= a
sin (kx t )
sinh (kd )
w=
cosh( kz + kd )
sin( kx t )
cosh( kd )
sinh( kz + kd )
a z = agk
cos( kx t )
cosh( kd )
a x = agk
E = 21 ga 2 = 81 gH 2
E T = 21 ga 2 L = 81 gH 2 L
E = Ec g = 21 ga 2 c g = 81 gH 2 c g
gL
2