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City Center Tour

Timioaras center today is a successor of the Austrian military


fortress built in the eighteenth century.
. Circular boulevards surround a core made of the streets dating back
to the eighteenth century, most intersections being at right angle. The
circular boulevards set out the citys former walls and the narrow streets
in the middle are actually Timioaras inner city.
The houses on the right side of the street are built on the walls
of Timioaras first fortress, Castrum de Tymes (Timi fortress), built
by the Hungarian Crown somewhere around the 11th to 12th centuries.
We reach Libertii Square. It is now time to talk about the second
fortress of Timioara, which was built between 1732 and 1761
The middle of the square is dominated by 2 the Mary-Nepomuk
Monument, typical of Viennese Baroque creation, which was brought
from Vienna in 1756 by water. The sculpture was started by the famous
Rapahel Donner, but because of the artists death most of the
masterpiece was done by Wasserburger and Blimm.
The military administration of Timioara and the entire Banat had its
seat in Libertii Square and, therefore, it was for a long time called
Paradeplatz (The Parade Square). Thus, on the southern side of the
square (on the right, as we came from Alba Iulia Street) is the building
that housed 3 the Timioara Garrison Command (the New Generalate
1727). On the left side of the square the elegant building, specific to the
late Baroque with rococo influences, dominates, namely 4 the Military
Casino (the Commanders House).
On the northern side of Libertii square stands 5 the Old City Hall.
Built as the German community city hall in 1731, its faade was
rebuilt several times until it received its nowadays eclectic appearance,
in 1853. The architectural trend was constantly changing, and
therefore many buildings in Timioara have changed over time

according to these trends. The large room upstairs was famous in the
eighteenth century, being the most famous ballroom in the city where
every Saturday, they had parties
othe old Public Hospital (today a Clinic). Built between 1744 and 1757,
it is said that it was the first public hospital in the Habsburg Empire
(older than the Allgemeines Krankenhaus in Vienna .
the former Church of Misericordian Monks (1748 to 1753; today it is
Greek-Catholic), and behind it is the Misericordian hospital.
The Misericordians worked in this first hospital of Timioara, built as
early as 1735 to 1737. Also called the dark priests because of their
clothes, four of the six monks paid with their lives nursing the plague
infested patients. In the hospitals courtyard (today an ophthalmology
hospital) there is a portion of the wall of the Timioaras fortress, we
being on the western end of the former fortress.
We can now see on the left the building of a third hospital,
theMilitary Hospital.
On the opposite side, the front of the houses is dominated by 8 the
Cetate Synagogue, built between 1863 and 1865, in the so-called
Moorish architecture that then prevailed in the building of Mosaic
temples in the empire. The next large building still belongs to the
Hebrew community. Nearby there is also the first synagogue
in Timioara.
We keep walking on Gh. Lazr Street, turning to the right. We soon
notice an eclectic historicist building. It is 9Nikolaus Lenau High
School, with instruction in German. It was built exactly on the
foundations of the Rascian City Hall (i.e. .the Orthodox community
city hall, Romanian and Serbian), which later on sheltered the citys first
theater.Timioara is home to the largest German community
in Romania (over 7,000 people), but quite few young Germans still
study here.

On the corner opposite to Lenau High School, in an old modest building,


there is a famous Timioara landmark: 10the Revolution Memorial
Museum. Here, documentary materials about the events that took place
in December 1989, not only in Timioara, but throughout the country,
are archived.
We go forward to E. Ungureanu Street in order to reach 11 the Serbian
Cathedral (1744 to 1748), which until 1865 also served the Romanian
Orthodox Community. The exterior bears the imprint of the Baroque and
Neoclassicism (as all Orthodox churches in Banat were built in the same
way), but the inside is impressive. The altar painted by Constantin
Daniel in a style reminiscent of Biedermayer is perfectly complemented
by the warm tones of the decorative painting on the walls. In the same
courtyard there is also 12 the Episcopal Palace (today
the Serbian Vicariate Palace), with highly elaborated ornaments, made in
the Art Nouveau style, but interpreted in a special manner - Slavic.
These can be seen mainly on the primary side, facing Unirii Square, but
also on the side facing Gheorghe Lazr Strada, to which we return.
The last building on Gheorghe Lazr Street (on the right) draws our
attention with its fluid curved forms, and its decorative ceramic tiles that
indicate the Hungarian Secession (Szeceszi): 13 the former Discount
Bank, also called Steiner Miksa House, after its owners name. On its
faade, around the corner on Alecsandri Street, we can see the elegant
frontispiece, semi-round and with discreet lobes, on which the emblem
of the bee hive can be observed (a common motif for bank emblems).
We arrive in 14 Unirii Square. The intention of setting up this large
square with an impressive appearance was a real vision and fantasy
exercise of the Viennese court, the empires splendor having to be visible
from its borders. Unirii Square was characterized by the poet Franz
Liebhardt as Timioaras Baroque treasury. We can notice some
Baroque style masterpieces. Firstly, 15 the Holy Trinity
Monument (1740), known in Timioara as the plague statue. The name
is related to grim plague that haunted Timioara during 1738 to 1739.
Out of the 6,000 inhabitants of the city, around 1,000 died. Most were

settlers coming from Western Europe (Austrians and Germans) who had
arrived in Banat not long before. The pestilent air coming from
the Banat marshes was blamed for most diseases. This monument was
brought from Vienna, too, and is the most outstanding Baroque plastic
monument in the city. On the northern side of the square several onestorey buildings can be seen, typical of old Timioara. Thus, on the left
the House with lions is seen, with a tower on the corner, followed on
the right by Nikolaus Lenau High School. This building has housed for a
long time one of the most famous inns in Timioara, 16 La cei apte
Principi Electori (The Seven Electors). Next we see a series of four
Classicist houses they are 17 the Canons Houses (18th century),
recently renovated.
The pice de rsistance, however, of Unirii Square is 18 the Dome (the
Episcopal Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Banat Diocese). As a matter
of fact, the square has long been called Domplatz (the Dome Square).
This is an imperial foundation; work began under Carol VI in 1736 and
continued under Maria Theresia, ending only in 1774, several years
before the Empress death. Allegedly its construction involved famous
architects from Vienna, like Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach, but
also local engineers established in Timioara. Many Baroque works of
art can be admired inside, among which we mention the main altars
painting, signed by Michael Angelo Unterberger.
Another large building draws our attention on the squares southern side,
the one called by the people of Timioara 19The Baroque
Palace. Partially built in 1752, it already operated as an establishment
for the Landespresident (the Banat Governor). Today it houses the Art
Museum. It was the most luxurious building in the city. When visiting
theBanat, the Habsburg emperors used to spend the night here (Franz
Joseph lodged here several times). The highest level visits were received
in this place. Among the guests there are also Franz Liszt, Johannes
Brahms and George Enescu. Therefore the Art Museum is worth
visiting, where you can admire, among other collections, also the painter
Babas collection and recently restored eighteenth-century interiors. In

the vicinity there is a much newer building than the rest in the square,
but having its own charm: 20 Brck House (1911), one of the Secession
creations of architect Szkely.
We are moving eastward to Palanca Street. In front of us stands an
enormous building: 21 the Dicasterial Palace. Its dimensions are
representative for administrative buildings preferred by the neoabsolutist
system introduced after 1849. This palace with about 400 windows
(one for each day of the year) was made in the style of the the Palazzo
Strozzi in Florence.
Passing the Dicasterial Palace, turning left next to the House with Iron
Axis (visible right on the corner house edge), we get to 22 the
Evangelical or Lutheran Church (1837 to 1839, a Classicist structure).
The Lutheran community ofTimioara is made of Germans, Hungarians,
Slovaks and Romanians, and the religious service is held in all these
languages.
We reach the eastern edge of the old city. In front of us there is a part of
the circular boulevard that surrounds the Cetate district and the
Cardinal Points Fountain roundabout with the road leading to the
airport. On the right we can see 23 the Theresia Bastion. Today is known
simply as the Bastion, but until the 1892 demolishing of fortifications
decision it was only one of nine bastions of the city. This kind of
bastion-like fortress was typical in eighteenth centuryEurope. Timioara
Fortress had a triple wall and between them there were water channels.
The system was very efficient and it has withstood the 103 days siege of
the Hungarian revolutionaries in 1849, but it occupied a great lot of
space. The military land (triple wall plus esplanade, a grassy area,
without any trees or buildings) used to form a belt around the city, its
width being nearly 1.5 kilometers. Basically, although massive and
impressive, the present-day bastion is but a tiny remnant of the once
complicated defensive system. The best way to see the bastion and its
walls structure is by circumventing it on the left, then passing through
the arched corridor (where the double opening for the passage of motor
vehicles is) in the bastions courtyard.

From the Bastion, you can choose to go to Victoriei Square. This would
be a shorter version, thus starting with 30Deschan Palace, or you can
choose an excursion into the district east of the actual Cetate. On the
land cleared of the massive walls hundreds of new buildings emerged
after 1900. Even during socialism buildings were built on the open land
resulted from defortification.
Our tour starts with 24 the National Bank, the first building to appear in
this new neighborhood. It is a Secession building with some elements
belonging to classical orders (Ionic columns on two levels), the lion
heads symbolizing wealth and power. The next building following the
intersection with Cicio Pop Street is 25 the Post Office Palace(The
Main Post Office, 1911-1913). It has a more sober styling, typical to the
geometrized Secession, with more discreet decorations. We go on
Revoluiei 1989 Boulevard. We can see buildings in different styles;
some have only appeared in the 1930s and belong to Cubism. During the
time when these newer buildings hadnt emerge, on the empty lots
between the existing buildings corn was grown, which aroused the
Bucharest philosopher and politician Nicolae Iorgas ironic remarks,
who visited Timioara in the early 20s. We can soon notice
26 the Prefecture buildingon the other side. It was built in 1938, during
the days of royal dictatorship, and is typical for that period. It had to
command respect. This aspect was also used after the war, there being
the judeeana de partid (the partys county branch) of the Romanian
Communist Party (and, having this function, it was the target of the
December 1989 revolutionaries).
We leave Revoluiei Boulevard and go to C.D. Loga Boulevard. Apart
from the numerous elegant villas (1920s to
1930s), 27 Carmen Sylva High School stands out, built in the Secession
style, with outstanding neo-Roman and neo-Gothic elements. We return
past the Post Office at the intersection near the Continental Hotel.
On the other side we can see a very well done ensemble with four
1900s-style palaces / Secession, the most interesting being 28 Ciobanu
Palace. The Continental Hotel, just like 29 the Civic Park behind it,

emerged after the 1960s demolition of Transilvania Casern a building


that was not less than 480 meters long; the only thing that has remained
out of it is the military riding school, that is now functioning as a theater
room. Therefore, this park, too like many others in Timioara
emerged after the demolition of obsolete military objectives. On the
other side we can see 30 Deschan Palace; the Classicist fronton appeared
between 1802 and 1810, but when entering the courtyard we can see the
older part, a simple province Baroque with many arches, built around
1735. Further from the house with the guilds tree (tied to a known
legend which circulated throughout Central Europe) and 31 RomanCatholic Episcopacy Palace(1748), with richly decorated Baroque
portals we arrive in 32 St. Gheorghe Square. The name comes from a
church dedicated to St. Gheorghe which existed here in the past. Today,
in the square there is the monument of St. Gheorghefighting the dragon;
this monument is part of a series built-up by the Revolution Memorial
Association (on the alleys here, bloody street fighting occurred in
December 1989). The square is flanked by the buildings of old banking
institutions.
Continuing on Lucian Blaga Street we can deviate left on Bolyai Street
to visit 33 the Roman Catholic parish church from the Cetate
district (initially, the church belonged to the lower Salvatorian
Franciscans). Further, on the building at no. 1 a plaque reminds us that,
while living in Timisoara, Jnos Bolyai discovered in 1823 the
fundamental formula of the first non-Euclidean geometry.
At the end of the L. Blaga Street we can spot 34 the Huniade Castle on
the site of the oldest building in town. The original castle was built as a
royal residence for Carol Robert of Anjou, and was then enlarged by
Ioan Huniade. The building however suffered during time after every
attack, and had to be constantly rebuilt. The nowadays appearance dates
from 1856. This venerable building now houses the Banat Museum
with the history, archeology and natural sciences departments. In the
courtyard you can see the tower foundations of the
first castle of Timioara, uncovered by archeologists. A 35 street

lamp mounted in front of the castle reminds about one of the European
premieres: the introduction of electricity for street lighting in 1884, as a
complete system, thought for an entire city.
We are entering 36 Victoriei Square. This interesting ensemble, of a very
generous size, appeared after the demolition of the fortress walls the
three imposing fortification rings, which started in front of the theater
building. Between 1910 and 1914, beautiful Secession palaces emerge
that give Timioaras center its distinct charm. In the middle of the
square there is the Lupa Capitolina monument (the she-wolf
with Romulus and Remus), a gift from the municipalityof Rome in 1926.
A very imposing building is 37 the Palace of Culture. Today,
the Palace of Culture hosts four cultural institutions ofTimioara the
Romanian Opera House in Timioara, Mihai Eminescu National
Theater, the German State Theater and the Hungarian State Theater
Csiky Gergely. Initially built in 1873 by Viennese architects Fellner
and Helmer, it went through a major fire in 1920. With the restoration of
the faade an interesting change was introduced: the balcony is closed
with a large triumphal arch supported on three Byzantine columns. This
balcony earned some unexpected facets during the December 1989
Revolution. The buildings foundation, based on 1,600 oak pillars, is
remarkable we must not forget that the entire Cetate district is built on
the site of former marshes, and the soft soil could not withstand such
weights.
We take a look now at the Secession palaces bordering Victoriei
Squares sides: the one on the right (west) was completely built in 1914
and received the name of Corso, and the one on the left was called
Surogat; this side was closed only in 1963. On Surogat we can see in the
foreground, richly ornate, 38 the Lffler Palace (1912-1913, architect
Leopold Lffler). The faade facing the theater is decorated not only
with many statues, but with ... some bullets traces from the 1989
revolution, which are still visible on the triangular fronton. On the other
side, on the Corso, is 39 Lloyd Palace, originally famous because the
Agricultural Stock Exchange was housed here after 1948 it hosts

mainly offices belonging to the Technical University (Politehnica); the


staircase is very neatly decorated (and excellently renovated).
Next are other palaces in the Secession
style: Neuhausz, Merbl, Dauerbach, Hilt Palace, and
finally Szechenyi Palace. Excepting Merbl (whose owner was a
prominent architect) and Lloyd Palace, the others are made by Lszl
Szkely, chief architect of the city during that time, and a fervent
promoter of the Budapest influence Secession.
At the southern end, the square is closed by 40 the Romanian Orthodox
Metropolitan Cathedral. In the interwar period, many Romanians settled
down in Timioara. Erected between 1936 and 1946, it was soon seen as
one of the emblematic buildings of Timioara. One could write a lot of
books about the Cathedral, but we limit ourselves to some technical
data: the total capacity is of about 5,000 people, it has 11 towers, the
highest one reaches 83 meters; being only 32 meters wide, this explains
the buildings elongated silhouette.
Both the memorial plaques next to the entry and the triptychs and the
modern monument called Crucifixion from across the street remind of
the tragic moments from December, 17 and 18, 1989.
North-west of the cathedral is 41 the Piarist Complex, consisting of the
monastery church and a school, both created by architect Szekely
(together with A. Baumgarten), in the Secession style; their roofs have
undulations typical of this style. The school was returned in 2006 to the
Catholic Diocese of Banat.
On the other side of the cathedral (towards the east) we can see two
important buildings of the interwar period: 42 the Philharmonic (the
Capitol Hall) and 43 the City Hall (the new City Hall); the new
building of city hall was conceived and began before the First World
War.
Behind the park runs the Bega River, by-passing on the southern side, in
a broad circle arc, the Cetate district. 300 years ago the area would have

been unrecognizable: Bega together with the Timi river would regularly
flood the low plain in which Timioara lay, thereby maintaining a lot of
unhealthy marshes. Since 1728, the Austrians begin to drain the marshes
(excluding the floodable land around the fortress, which had a defensive
role) and to draw the Tisa-Danube navigable channel. The city was thus
linked to Central Europe via water and, at the same time, created the
preconditions for a healthy, fertile area for the Banat plain. Much
of Timioaras history is related to this river, which is today crossing its
center.

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