Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Disclaimer : This collection of info, links, etc., does not imply any endorsement or guarantee of fitness of a given
product or service producer, and also may be subject to errors or omissions.
Updated - 23 May 2015
SL55 AMG - The German Bentley
Overview
With the SL55 AMG, Mercedes has taken its legendary roadster and injected it with a major dose of horsepower that
elevates it to near super car status. With nearly 500 horsepower emanating from its supercharged V8, this drop top
can outdo most sports cars in a straight line, yet it's still docile enough to go for a top-down Sunday drive. The
ridiculously powerful SL65 AMG might overshadow the SL55 in the minds of some buyers, but unless you have regular
access to roads resembling the German autobahn, the real-world performance difference will go unnoticed 95 percent
of the time. If you're looking for the ultimate combination of open-air fun and unparalleled performance, the SL55
satisfies in ways few other cars can.
The SL Through the Years :
However, having said the aforementioned about the R230s in general (SL500s, SL550s, SL600s, etc.), perspective
changes when you start to look at the AMGs (SL55s, SL65s and SL63s). The AMGs being made in more limited
numbers, with supercar performance, improved quality and impressive appearance, this should keep values higher.
On top of that, as years pass, there are fewer models remaining on the market, due to accident write-offs, neglect
(too costly to repair at current values) and some get so heavily modified that normal buyers get scared off, that values
of well cared for examples with full dealer service history and only subtle mods, will fetch higher market values.
Due to the complexity, unreliability and replacement costs of the infamous Active Body Control (ABC) system, I
propose that, even considering my comments in the previous paragraph, that should one convert to an SL350 coilover system including front and rear sway bars and have them professionally (dealer) installed, your value will possibly
even increase over an ABC car, but at the very least, the conversion should not depreciate the cars value.
About 15 years old, SLs will become classy again to drive.
Details
Construction
Bonnet/hood
Boot/trunk lid
Front wings/fenders
Doors
Inner door shells
Front and rear bumpers
aluminium
aluminium
aluminium
aluminium
magnesium
composite
Engine Specs
NOTE : the SL55 AMG engine is bullet-proof, the only issue (minor) are occasional leaking valve cover
gaskets.
The M113 5.4L supercharged is a supercharged and twin-intercooled version of the 5.4 L (5439 cc) M113 5.4. It is
commonly referred to as "M113K" - where 'K' stands for Kompressor (supercharger). Output varies depending on year
and model. Video of the engine assembly :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XMlLgl79ek
My engine Handcrafted by
Bore x Stroke
Power
Torque
Maximum RPM
Firing Order
Compression Ratio
Supercharger Max. Boost
Air Filter Element
Oil Filter
Oil
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Gap
97.00 mm x 92.00 mm
494 bhp @ 6,100 rpm
516 lb/ft @ 2,750 to 4,000 rpm
6,500 rpm
1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
9.5:1
0.8 bar (12 psi)
K&N 33-2181 (2 required) +15hp
Mobil 1 10W30 Fully Synthetic (9.0 US qt (8.5 litres)
NGK PFR 5 R-11 (these are Platinum)
0.039 in (1.0 mm)
Spark PlugTorque
In-Line Fuel Filter
Poly-V-Belts
Cooling System Anti-Freeze
5-speed Auto
1st-3.59; 2nd-2.19; 3rd-1.41; 4th-1.00; 5th-0.83
MB Automatic Transmission Fluid (9.1 US qt (8.1 litres))
Final Drive
Ratio
Oil
2.82 : 1
Hypoid Gear Oil SAE85 W 90 (1.5 US qt (1.4 litres))
Suspension
Front
Rear
Double Wishbones and Coil Springs with ABC (Active Body Control)
Five-link with ABC (Active Body Control)
Steering
Type
Ratio
Turn Lock to Lock
Turning Circle
Power Fluid
36.2 ft
MB Power Steering Fluid (Pentosin CHF 11S)
Braking System
Electronically controlled 4-circuit with 4-wheel discs.
Front
Rear
Master Cylinder
Fluid
Electrical
Alternator
Starter Motor
Starter Battery
Consumer/Accessory Battery
14 V / 180 A
12 V / 1.7 kW
12 V / 35Ah
12 V / 70Ah
Wheels
PCD
Centre Bore
Std. M.B. Wheel Bolts
5 x 112 mm
66.6 mm
M14 x 1.5 thread pitch, Ball Seat, Thread Length - 25 - 28mm
Standard Original
AMG ultra-thin-spoke, light alloy, wheels (Style V)
Front
Rear
8.5 x 18
9.5 x 18
ET 30 mm
ET 33 mm
255/40 R 18
285/35 R 18
tyres
tyres
33 psi ? bar
34 psi ? bar
Note :
Mercedes-Benz wheel bolts have a Ball Seat, while most aftermarket wheels require bolts with a 60 degree
Taper Seat
Higher positive ET/offset = moreset-in. (i.e. if original has ET 38, and new has ET 28, then new wheel will sit
further out by 10 mm, and will be more flush with fender).
Minimum wheel bolt engagement inside hub is about 1 1/2 times the bolt diameter
i.e. 14mm diameter bolt
will require at least 21mm engagement inside hub (or another way, 21mm outside inner edge of wheel).
Currently Fitted :
Mandrus Manheim Painted/Gun Metal
Front
Rear
8.5" x 19"
9.5" x 19"
ET 25 mm
ET 25 mm
255/35 R 19
285/30 R 19
SKU: W-1985MAH255112B66
SKU: W-1995MAH255112B66
Front
Rear
All Season
All Season
NOTE: current A/S tyres are not as good as pure winter/snow tyres, but may be a good all round compromise
in areas where winter is not too severe. However, next tyre change, I will be fitting winter/snow tyres, for all year
round use (they will wear slightly quicker in summer driving, but Ill just change them more often).
Tyre Pressures
Most favour dropping cold pressures on their street tires somewhat to give greater stickiness and handling
characteristics. Lower tyre pressures have improved the cars ride quality, despite the increase in wheel sizes.
Front
Rear
33 psi (suggested going down to 28 psi for better ride with bigger dia. tyre)
34 psi (suggest going down to 29 psi for better ride with bigger dia. tyre)
Wheel Spacers
There are several wheel spacer options (but I dont use) :
5 mm
17 mm
21 mm
25 mm
31 mm
- $475 each
- $420 each
Dunlop Wintersport D3
- $475 each
(905) 279-7501
email : service@mississaugaautorepairs.com
Kleeman Specialists
Oakridge Auto Service (Michael Fraculj)
220 Wyecroft rd. #43
Oakville, Ontario
L6K 3B1
Canada
e-mail oakridgeauto@bellnet.ca
Phone [905]338-3131
Fax [905]845-7132
Wheel Spacers
H&R Trac Wheel Spacers
John Nguyen
Paragon Competition
1681 Langstaff Road, Unit 12,
Vaughan
Ontario
(905) 760-9222 (John and orders)
(905) 760-9996
Local Bodywork Repairs or Replacement
Sam DeMita (father) Anthony (son)
Sun Collision Centre
(905) 227-7571
Misc.
AutoFX (graphics, logos and decals)
113 Cushman Road
Unit 44,
St. Catharines
(905) 685-3266
www.autofxgraphics.com
autofx@mergetel.com
Niagara Appraisal Services
Wally Clark Enterprises Limited,
P.O. Box 2182,
Niagara Falls,
Ont., L2E 6Z3
(905) 356-4785
Appraisals
Turn on the ignition to key position 2 (standard display of the control system appears).
Press button (UP arrow) or (DOWN arrow) on the multifunction steering wheel until the FSS indicator with
(Single Wrench) or (Double Wrench) and the service deadline appears in the multifunction display.
Press the reset knob (1 button) for about 4 seconds. Picture below.
4.
5.
6.
6.
7.
.
This message appears in the tachometer, DO YOU WANT TO RESET SERVICE INTERVAL? CONFIRM BY
USING RESET BUTTON.
Lift off the reset button when above message appears.
Now to confirm, again hold down the reset button until you hear a signal and get message telling you when
next service is due.
Turn key off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx3aPGe77Qg
Fuel Filter
replace fuel filter.pdf
Headlights
headlight removal.pdf
headlight replace.pdf
Jacking Points
The contact points are squarish and have holes in the centre (position a Hockey Puck between the jack and the
contact point).
How To Video Link :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgsZmjkPCM0
Options
Different pads are available to suit cars with differing styles of locations, such as flat surface, pinch welds, locator pin
style, etc. Rubber pads are also available to insulate metal to metal contact.
Each pair of JackPoint Jackstands comes with either a standard or low profile jack pads. These pads will work on a
wide variety of cars with pinch weld or flat jacking locations.
Standard finish is a natural cast, textured with no coating, paint or glaze. Optional polished or powder coated .
Standard matte finish :
2) The Base and Pad should only be used with a properly operating floor jack. The jack must have a jack plate that is
between 3 and 5 in diameter.
3)Check to see if the floor jack will roll into the open side of the Base with the jack plate elevated as high as the top of
the Base. (base including handle or wheels less than 11.75 and jack lift arm less than 5.5 wide for clearance with
jackstand)
4) With the jack lowered, place the Pad on top of the jack plate
5)Position the jack under the vehicle so that the Pad aligns under the vehicles factory jacking location
6)Slowly raise the jack until the Pad contacts the vehicles jacking location.
7)Using the jack, raise the vehicle until it is high enough to slide the Base under the vehicle and locate the Base under
the Pad and jack plate.
10) With the vehicle resting on the base, you can remove the jack and repeat the process to install additional
JackPoint Jackstands.
Overview of OBD II
OBD II Technical History
Since the late '70's early '80's vehicles have been equipped with sophisticated electronics to control vehicle emissions
and performance. Through the years several systems have been used, and keeping up with the differences from year
to year was a real chore, to say the least. Multiple scanners that attached to the vehicles on-board computer systems
were needed, and it was not uncommon for the scanner to become obsolete from model year to model year. These
were the days of the "pre-OBD I "(On-Board Diagnosis-First design) systems. Beginning in '88 CARB (California's Air
Resources Board) and the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) required vehicle manufactures to include a "self
diagnostic" program capable of identifying an emission related fault in the On-Board Computer systems. The first
generation of On-Board Diagnostics came to be known as OBD I. The CARB conducted studies on the OBD I vehicles
and found that the system was not capable of detecting an emission related component unless it had failed. The
components that had not failed completely were unable to set a DTC. Also, it was found that some systems not being
monitored had failed and yet the vehicle would pass an Emissions Test as the failed part would not be a factor unless
the vehicle was being driven or under a load. The CARB and the EPA passed new laws that would address the
problems found during the OBD I case study. These new laws and requirements are known as OBD II. Since
mid-'94-'95 some vehicles were equipped with the second design, OBD II systems. In '94-'95 only select models were
equipped with this new system, and in '96 every vehicle sold in the United States were equipped with the OBD II
system. You might be asking, ok, so what? Well, this was the single and largest improvement made to diagnosis and
repair of the On-Board Computer systems since their introduction. The DLC (Data Link Connector) that a scanner
attaches to, is virtually the same for every vehicle, and the "Generic" DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Code) are the same
for every vehicle. The terminology was changed to terms that would be used by all manufactures. Before this, the
computer (PCM), for example, could have been called a Processor, ECU, Control Module, ECM, etc. To know what the
name of a part on a specific system was called or how it functioned, or was located, was tough when you worked on
multiple vehicle models.
Do you remember the early home computers? The box that connected to your TV set and allowed you to play games
and do light bookkeeping? Then the 286, 386, 486 computers each being a little faster and better than there
predecessor? Look at the OBD II system on your vehicle the same way, faster and "smarter" than any other system
used in computer equipped vehicles. This is good news for everyone. The vehicles perform better (fuel economy,
performance, longevity) and the "self-diagnostics" are simply amazing. If 20 years ago someone would have told me
that the on-board computer would be able to tell me that the fuel cap was loose or that a specific cylinder was misfiring
I would have laughed.
Does my vehicle have OBD II?
To determine if your vehicle is equipped with the OBD II system is fairly simple. The DLC (Data Link Connector) must
be located within three feet of the driver and must not require any tools to be revealed. Look under the dash and
behind ashtrays. All cars and light trucks manufactured since late 1995 should be OBD2 compliant. Two factors will
show if your vehicle is definitely OBD2 equipped :
There will be a note on a sticker or nameplate under the hood: "OBD2 compliant
There will be an OBD2 connector as shown below
Every OBD II vehicle has to comply to strict emission standards. When the vehicle is new, this is easily achieved, but
what about after 50,000 or even 100,000 miles? Every OBD II vehicle is required to able to determine if a fault within
the system that would cause excessive emissions to be expelled from the tailpipe in the form of a DTC.
The Generic DTC's are a list of mandatory trouble codes that must be present and able to be displayed should a fault
arise. There are many Generic DTC's and not all of them will be used on every vehicle. The ones used depends on the
yr/make/model/engine of the vehicle. The Generic DTC's are also designed to be able to be retrieved using a standard
OBD II Scanner or code reader.
The Enhanced DTC's are DTC's that are vehicle specific. Simply put these are DTC's that have been added by the
manufacture to further "Enhance" the diagnosis capabilities of the vehicle. Without this option every vehicle would be a
clone to one another. A simple example of an Enhanced DTC would be:
Ford Vehicles.
P1227
Waste-gate Failed Closed
Keep in mind that if your vehicle is '96 and newer, Federal Law requires that ALL vehicles (cars and light trucks) sold in
the United States MUST BE OBD II Compliant. This includes ALL Domestic, Asian and European vehicles.
Can diagnose/check engine problems in all CAN and OBD2 vehicles (1996 and newer) and many of the most
popular OBD1 (1981 to 1995) vehicles
Features unique patented all-in-one screen display and LED display for quick emissions check
Automatic refresh updates data every 30 seconds when connected to the vehicle - an easy way to verify repair
completion
Code definition can be displayed in English, French and Spanish
Can be Flash updated with a standard Windows PC
Features memory/battery backup for off-car review and analysis
Connecting
Connecting the OBD2 Code Reader is as simple as locating the DLC connector.
Reading the LCD Display
Before you start testing, take a good look at the LCD display. The illustration above explains what the various icons
mean and how the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) will be displayed. The unit is self-powered by three-AAA batteries
and will let you know when they are running low. When connected/receiving power from the vehicle, the CAR Icon will
display.
The OB2 code reader is a very simple tool to use. Once it is connected, turn the power on. Once the ignition is
switched to the on position, the code reader is checking the system for any stored DTCs.
The meaning of each DTC can be found in the manual supplied with your code reader.
Example:
the code reader displays a DTC PO309, Cylinder 9 misfire was detected.
Once you know what the problem is, you have to determine what's causing it. In this case the intake manifold gasket
was faulty. Once the repairs have been made, it is time to clear the DTC and check the system to verify the repair.
Clearing the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
Clearing the DTC is very simple. Press the ERASE button on the code reader. A message will display on the screen;
"SURE" for conformation. If you wish to clear the DTC press and hold down the ERASE button again until a message
appears on the screen "DONE". If you did not wish to clear the codes and hit Erase by mistake at the screen message
"SURE" simply press the link button to return without erasing any DTCs.
When you clear the DTC(s) from the PCM (Power train Control Module)you also clear ALL of the other gathered
information that the PCM has collected, including Freeze Frame, Drive Cycle data, manufacture specific enhanced
data end everything stored in memory is erased - just like if you cleared the Cache files on your PC.
The vehicle's PCM will need to re-learn the information that was erased. Don't be alarmed!! This is easily
accomplished just by driving the vehicle. All you have to do is get driving.
Mercedes Error Codes (1996 and newer Mercedes-Benz but not model specific)
Powertrain :
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0119 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0120 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0121 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0122 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0123 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input
P0124 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P0128 Coolant Thermostat Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1, open circuit bef cat right)
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
NOTE :
Readers
Scanners
Scantool
Simple generic hand-held scan tool devices are very helpful for reading/erasing generic codes, but cannot access
more specific vehicle system codes, nor can they reset the many parameters that the dealer Diagnostic unit is able to
process and adjust.
Some Mercedes-Benz Owners Comments On Handhelds (i.e Actron or Equus, etc.?) :
Q - Plan to upgrade my scanner (low end version). Saw these two: Actron CP9180 ($139) vs Equus 3160 ($200).
I have the Equus 3100, which does the job. Does some nice readout's too.
The Equus is a better unit. I have the Actron and it just does the basics including real time readouts of the ODB II
compliant sensors and also soome freeze frame ability. The Equus 3160 can actually get into some of the CAN
BUS functions that the Actron can not. Most Wally Marts can get the Equus 3160 with free site-to-store shipping
which makes returning the item a lot easier if you do not like it. The Equus can also diagnose ABS components
that the Actron can not. If I did not have the MB SDS I would get the Equus over the Actron in a heartbeat.
I have the Equus 3140 sold under the Craftsman label. I haven't had any trouble with it. The 3140 works on many
OBD1 vehicles but doesn't do ABS. The 3160 does ABS but not OBD1. I'm not sure why they don't have a model
that does everything. Instead you have to choose between ABS and supporting older vehicles.
Some people say CarSoft, but these days it appears their software has more bugs than the Rain Forest in it.
The system offers total diagnostic coverage of all engine, chassis and body systems.
2 Video Links :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3J37bJRaJg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNRXHX5rYM8
Drive :
ME2.8 (6,8 cylinders) (Motor Electronics)
ME2SFI (Motor Electronics)
ME2.7 (Motor Electronics)
MESFI (Motor Electronics)
MESFI2.8 (Motor Electronics)
ECM (Engine control monolith)
CDI & CDI2 & CDI3 & CDI4 & CDI5 & CDI6 & CDID & CDIV1 (Common Rail Diesel Injection)
CDID3 (Motor electronics)
FTC (Front Transmission Control)
AB (Air Bag)
ATA (AntiTheft Alarm)
PTS (Parktronic System)
EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch)
SEM (Security Module)
PSE (Pneumatic System Equipment)
OCP (Overhead Control Panel)
LCP (Lower Control Panel)
SAM (Signal acquisition and actuation module)
SAMFL (Front left signal acquisition and actuation module)
SAMFR (Front right signal acquisition and actuation module)
KI (Instrument Cluster)
ICM/IC (Instrument Cluster with Maintenance Interval Display)
SCM/SCCM (Steering Column Module)
DN (Dynamic Navigation by CTEL)
APS (AutoPilot System)
DAS (Driver Authorized System)
NSA (Night View Assist)
MFK (Multifunction camera)
RFK (Backup camera)
ASSYST (Active Service System)
CM (Compass module)
ASSYST PLUS (PLUS Active Service System)
Seat Modules & Door Modules :
DTCs and possible fault resolutions. The i980 also prompts you prior to clearing any fault. Unlike my other universal
OBDII scanners which require batteries, the iCarsoft i980 DTCs are specific for Mercedes Benz vehicles.
I own at least two other universal scanners and diagnostic tools none of which perform as well as the i980 has so far. If
you are interested those diagnostic tools are now for sale, PM me if you are interested. The iCarsoft i980 is not a
replacement for systems like Star Diagnostic System and other high power, high dollar systems but a very handy tool
for DIYers. I was very skeptical when I read advertising for the i980 capabilities, multi system, live data streaming and
DTC fault reset at this price point. The other diagnostic and scan tools I own have ALL been very disappointing, so I
initially thought the advertising claims where boastful and would not be fulfilled. The one thing that won me over was
the money back guarantee. I happen to live in the city the iCarsoft i980 was being sold, if it did not perform as stated I
was going to go directly to that address and return it in person! Fortunately, I have been pleased with the performance
so far and use it often just because it is handy + I cleared the dreaded SRS fault when I replaced my 10 year old
battery with a Bosch AGM.
If, you are in the market for a value priced diagnostic tool, check out the iCarsoft i980 Multi-System Scanner.
NOTE : good telling you faulty part, etc., but once installed, you cannot reset height setting using this tool and
have to go to dealer for Star Das setting.
Autel MaxiDiag Elite MD802 All Systems (around $400) - 4 System (around $250)
This later MD802 scan tool (old one was MD702) includes :
MD701
MD702
MD703
MD704
Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Honda, Acura, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Suzuki, Isuzu,
Hyundai, Kia, Daewoo, Mazda, Holden
Mercedes-Benz, Smart, Maybach, BMW, Mini, VW, Seat, Skoda, Audi, Opel, Land
Rover, Jaguar, Volvo, Porsche, SAAB, EU Ford, Vauxhall
Ford, GM, Chrysler
Peugeot, Citroen, Renault, Dacia, Fiat, Abarth, Alfa Romeo, Maserati, Lancia, EU
Ford
NOTE : Main difference from earlier one is addition of two on-screen buttons (OilReset and EPB Electronic Parking Brake).
MD802 - covers :
ENGINE | ABS | AIRBAG | AUTO TRANSMISSION + EPB+OIL SERVICE RESET+MAJOR ELECTRONIC MODULES!
Version 1)
Autel MaxiDiag MD802 For 4 System + DS model :
Only support for Engine, Transmission, ABS, Airbag 4 systems +EPB + OIL Service Reset and support data stream
function.
Version 2)
Autel MaxiDiag MD802 For All System + DS model :
Engine, Transmission, ABS, Airbag +EPB+OIL Service Reset & Electronic modules and support data stream function.
MD802 Features :
1. Ability to quickly Read and Clear codes in ALL modules for European, Asian, and Domestic vehicles 1996-present
2. One button Auto-Scan reads codes in ALL modules and displays them on the screen
3. Quick Erase feature allows all codes to be cleared with the push of a button
4. Live data graphing for the ECU
5. One tool to do it all. Reads and clears trouble codes on engine, transmission , airbag, and ABS failures
6. Global OBD II coverage (US, Asian, & European)
7. Turns off engine, transmission, ABS, and airbag warning lights for most USA Domestic, Asian, and European
vehicles
8. Supports all 10 test modes of the latest J1979 OBD II test specs, including Read Codes,Erase codes, Live Data,
Freeze Frame, I/M Readiness, O2 Monitor Test, On-Board Monitor Test, Component Test, and Vehicle Information
9. Enhanced OBD II Mode 6
10. OBD II code tips guide technicians to the root cause of trouble codes faster
11. Data graphing
12. View freeze frame data
13. USB cable included for product updates
14. One year of FREE software updates and upgrades included
15. Prints data via PC-link
16. Limited One (1) Year Warranty
This code reader is specifically designed for vehicles from the following manufacturers :
Audi
BMW
Ford (EU)
Jaguar
Land Rover
Mercedes
Maybach
Mini
Opel
Porsche
SAAB
Seat
Skoda
Smart
Sprinter
Vauxhall
VW (use VW Phaeton for Bentley)
Volvo
It allows car owners and mechanics to quickly read and clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) from several systems
on the car.
This code reader will read/clear codes from EOBD diagnostics systems (this covers engine, power-train and emissions
faults), and from the Airbag, ABS and Automatic Transmission systems on compatible vehicles.
NOTE : It will however, not reset "service due" or annual service indicators (but this can be done using MB indash menu - see elsewhere in this document).
Buyers Comment :
For the SL55 AMG, the MD802 is a nice OBDII scanner with a LCD screen for easy navigation and monitoring/
recording of some live data streams. It will not access most the modules in a Mercedes however and certainly can't do
the actuation's nor programming/coding DAS was made for i.e ABC settings and rodeo.
More Advanced Scan Tools - As well as Code Reading and Erasing OBD II, these Scan Tools can also carry
out resetting of various car systems including Active Body Control, etc. (similar capability to MB dealer Star
DAS).
The Autologic Solution from Autologic Diagnostics Ltd is a holistic approach to vehicle diagnostics for independent
garages.
Dealer-level software for eight premium vehicle manufacturers is combined with unrivalled technical support from
Master Technicians and specialist software engineers. The Autologic Solution gives independent garages the
confidence to undertake any service and repair work required and enables independent garages to specialise without
having to involve the dealer or call in outside help.
Providing complete coverage of all the vehicle systems, unique functions of Autologic include coding and flash
programming. These functions together with other features such as retrofits, conversions and fitment of aftermarket
products, surpass the functionality of other diagnostic tools as well as some dealer tool features.
Information is displayed on a large touch-sensitive screen through a simple menu structure, supported by help
screens. Autologic software packages are available independently or as multiple packages run on the same Autologic
hardware base unit.
Autologic MERCEDES-BENZ Technical Specification...
NOTE : Full details on Autologic MERCEDES-BENZ diagnostic capabilities are provided in the pdf document :
MERCEDES-BENZ Technical Specification
The Autologic diagnostic tool for MERCEDES-BENZ vehicles is without doubt the most comprehensive tool to be
made available to independent MERCEDES-BENZ specialists. It is unique in offering full fault code read and re-set,
dynamic data, activation of components, clearing and setting of adaptation values, coding and programming of control
modules (including SCN).
Programming of new control modules (including Airbag SRS systems) including SCN coding, system controls such as
adaptation reset and variant coding, initial startup of new instrument clusters (including odometer advancement), realtime reading of all dynamic data, ASSYST and ASSYST+ Active Service Systems, procedure for the fitting of
Mercedes-Benz accessories and D2B/MOST ring components and TV/DVD activation and region coding. ECU
programming.
Systems accessed by Autologic for Mercedes-Benz :
All Engines: LH1/LH2, V6, PMS, ME1.0, ME2.0, ME2.1, ME2.7, ME2.8, ME9.7, ECM 1 & 2, ME-SFI (SIM4), EVE,
ERE, HFM, CDIs 1-5 and CDiD (CDI6 in progress)
All Transmissions and selector modules, EAG, EGS, ETC, 7GTronic
ENR, ADS, AIRmatic and Active Body Control Suspension Systems
All Traction Systems: ESP/ASR/ETS/ABS/BAS & SBC systems
Sensotronic brake control (SBC 211, 219 & 230)
TPC Tyre Pressure Control
All EIS systems
All SRS and airbag systems
All body network modules e.g. OCP/UCP/LCP/SCM etc.
Roll-over bar and soft top
Central gateway and system diagnosis modules including ECU programming
ASSYST, ASSYST PLUS including ECU programming
DAS2 (Pre-97) modules for 140, 202, 210 e.g SKF (CCM) and KFB (CF) body controls, IFZ PSE, drive authorisation
systems
D2B and most command modules incorporating all subsidiary modules
Vito / Sprinter immobiliser (WSP) including key coding
Drive Authorisation System alignment of new control modules.
SAM (Signal Acquisition) Modules
Air Conditioning Systems
Instrument Cluster
Parktronic System
Keyless Go
TV Tuner activation
Star Diagnosis is also known as SDS or DAS by Daimler Chrysler, although the acronym DAS is also used for the
electronic key system. It briefly covers the J2534 system that Mercedes make available in the USA for updating and
configuring the emissions related systems on Mercedes vehicles.
Dealer Star Diagnosis (SDS) is a complex system that consists of various parts :
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Cables
DAS Software (The 'Star Diagnosis' program)
Optional MT measurement system.
Optional WIS (workshop information system) software
Over time it has been available in various forms, each new release containing faster/better hardware. The two ranges
of Star Diagnosis are known as the 'Basic' range and the 'Compact' range :
The Star Diagnosis Basic range has essentially a much lower specification ruggedised PC, and thus is not sold
with the ability to interface to the MT system to have WIS, or to use the latest wireless multiplexer. The current
'Star Diagnosis Basic' system is known as the 'Star Diagnosis Basic2',
The current Star Diagnosis Compact system is the Star Diagnosis Compact 3W system.
MUX = Multiplexer
SDS = Star Diagnostic System
"Compact C3" actually refers to the PC that runs DAS.
C3 / C4 actually specifies the computer or tablet used in the SDS environment,;not the MUX.
DAS / XENTRY are identical, no matter what MUX / System you use (the ONLY legal way to own DAS / XENTRY
is to have a licensed copy through Mercedes which is quite costly). Recommended to get a genuine or very good
clone Mercedes MUX using DAS and XENTRY; there is no better software than the Mercedes factory diagnostics.
The wired MUX is called a Type D (the proved Type D MUX has fewer problems than the wireless SD Connect
and Type D MUX looks likes this) :
The Type D MUX is recommended as the wireless MUX can be a setup hassle, depending on what type of
computer and hardware is used.
The wireless MUX is called SD Connect, but it is recommended to stay with a proven type wired D MUX (they
have fewer problems). The SD Connect with WiFi MUX's have more issues and the clone SD Connects still
have issues with newer cars and black listings. If you want to go this route, then I would advise buying the MB SD
CONNECT C4 with D630 laptop, because it connects via LAN Cable, not COM Port (as MB Star C3). Note, most
laptops have no COM port. Also used Laptop may have problem on Com port so that you would not
communication well. I got one from here :
http://www.obdii-diag.com/mb-sd-connect-compact-4-star-p-140.html
NOTE : Some of the Chinese clone multiplexers are very low quality and only last a few months under daily
use. There is a voltage regulator in many of the Chinese clones that is incorrectly spec'd during the build and it leads
to early burning out of the unit (many have replaced the voltage regulator for the correct spec'd part and have gotten a
longer life span out of the unit).
It is best to just purchase a used laptop that meets the above specifications, and use this computer SOLELY as a
DEDICATED computer for the MB STAR installation. It can be kept in the garage and used for these purposes. It really
doesn't even have to be connected to the Internet. One can also put the laptop on a dedicated cart, which allows the
computer, cables and a printer (if desired) to be rolled around the workshop/garage next to specific cars.
you want to preserve your external hard drive as a backup "master" copy of the MB STAR C3 software (in case
something goes wrong and it has to be re-installed).
performance of the MB STAR C3 system is MUCH better when it's installed on an internal hard drive than when
it's installed on an external drive (it's just unwieldy to have a USB drive hanging off the side of the computer
connected with a USB cable; much cleaner just to have everything inside the laptop case).
It will probably put icons for the VMWare player on the desktop, in the menu bar and in the Start Menu folder as part of
the installation process.
After that, you will have to restart your computer to complete the installation process, which is normal.
After you restart, everything should be installed correctly. It's a pretty typical Windows software install and it goes
pretty quickly and smoothly.
Remember, you're just installing the Virtual Machine PLAYER that the MB STAR C3 disk image runs inside of. So next,
you have to tell the Virtual Machine WHAT it needs to run. To do this, you have to go to the hard drive that you cloned
the external hard drive to (typically the E: or F: drive) in your "Windows Explorer" program or by double-clicking on the
"My Computer" icon on the desktop or in the Start Menu. From there, you will see an icon with the name something
like "DAS_2012.10.vmx" or something similar. This is the disc image file with the date of the cloned copy in the name
of the file -- in this case, corresponding to the October, 2010 copy/update of the MB STAR C3. The .vmx extension on
the file name indicates that the file is a VMWare virtual machine image.
Double-click on this file, and it should automatically launch the VMWare Player that you installed, and the MB STAR
C3 software playing in the Virtual Machine will ask your for an 8-digit password.
NOTE : Typically, with the Chinese clones you take the first 8 characters off of the serial number sticker that is
on the hard drive (it's the hand-written alphanumeric character string that is on the label on the hard drive
case) and type that in.
From there, it will start loading the MB STAR C3 software. After a minute or two, the main ("Desktop") screen of the
MB STAR C3 system will appear. You have the option to run the Virtual Machine full screen (recommended) or you
can just run it within a window on your screen.
The Desktop screen of the MB STAR C3 (see first image below) contains a number of icons, which correspond to the
various program elements that comprise the system. These individual programs generally correspond to the following
functions (various clones may have slight to moderate variations of what is listed below, depending on the vendor and
the extent of the clone) :
Xentry - the "master control program" which is the hub of the MB STAR C3 DAS system, serving as the gateway
out to most of the other individual key DAS modules
Star Finder - a program that allows (beginning with W210 cars, and all newer chassis) the user to pinpoint the
location of components on the car
EPC - the Electronic Parts Catalog (same as US users have access to online; the MB C3 STAR versions are
probably a bit out of date)
WIS - the Workshop Information System, a collection of all processes and documents pertaining to repair and
maintenance of all the vehicles
Star Utilities - a collection of utilities that help the user administer the MB STAR C3 system -- must be used VERY
carefully !!
Info - information about the MB STAR C3 system
EWA net - the administration program for the core, EPCnet and WISnet functions that tracks passwords and user
access
Star Browser PL 65 - a price list of MB parts prices (generally out of date, but often a good indicator of pricing)
SD Media - a collection of instructional information and video procedures for diagnosing and solving problems
TeamViewer 6 - a non-Mercedes remote access program that allows the vendor to control your computer if you
need technical support/assistance. Specific program varies by vendor.
So, after you've changed the system date in the Virtual Machine, you should double-click on the "Star Utilities" icon on
the desktop to begin the actual configuration of the MB STAR C3 installation. You will then click on the "StartKey
Manager". At this point, a dialog box will pop up, and you have to select the "Xentry diagnostic" option in the
Application menu.
The system will then provide you with several pieces of information, which you should write down. These bits of
information include :
HW-ID
APP-ID
Start Date
Finish Date
Then you will see a place to fill in a long alphanumeric string of characters, which is an overall system access
password. To obtain this, you have to provide the aforementioned bits of information to the vendor, and they will
generate the alphanumeric code for you. This is several dozen characters in length. You enter this alpha code into the
provided field, and if everything checks out and is correct, you will see a small box pop up that says "Saved
Successfully!". That means you are good to go, and you can then start and enter the MB STAR C3 DAS system.
From there, what you want to do is to fire up the Xentry software by double-clicking on the Xentry icon. The second
and third images below show the Xentry software in the process of loading, as well as its main screen.
User Comments :
Requires the Windows XP operating system (I WOULD NOT use Windows 7 or Windows 8).
One other thing....DO NOT enable the laptop's wireless connection with your wireless network, if you have one at
home. Reason being is that it will try to update itself over the Internet, which you don't want. The laptop is just fine
being operated in "standalone" mode as a separate machine. I use mine as a dedicated laptop for shop use only.
To say the Chinese HDD included with the Mux may have contained some 'malware' is a gross understatement. I
brought it up on an isolated access point and sat back with a packet sniffer to watch it. It captured network
information and attempted to send that data to a rolling pool of IP addresses somewhere in the mainland (very,
very sophisticated, someone spent a LOT of time engineering the hooks and payload generation on that one).
The HDD itself contained keyloggers, Trojans, malware windows services, hacked browser objects, infected
shared libraries/exe's, some really nasty low level network stack hacks hijacking DNS, and two rootkits.
I corrected the OS's environment, but, one (or more) of the viruses managed to infect several core shared libraries
of the Xentry application rendering it inoperable (I found a stripped D630 image on a Russian torrent site that I
loaded up on a spare HDD to get Xentry working cleanly). The supplied HDD still has a newer WIS/EPC that
works fine, but I usually opt to use a VMware WIS/EPC I built (for the on-screen real-estate). Though it would be
nice to have DAS/Xentry/WIS/EPC/StarFinder all functioning in one location (my next endeavor I suppose).
Regardless, the point to all this is to BE CAREFUL with any supplied software from China; treat it with kid gloves,
and under no circumstances put it on your home network or plug a thumb drive you don't want a virus on into it.
I think its worth adding that you can get refurbished Dell D630 for $150-200 - so as mentioned upthread its a
minimal investment to have a dedicated "shop laptop" so to speak rather than use your daily machine or anything
else you might need to connect to the laptop. I plan on getting a STAR system after the new year and going this
route, or maybe spending a few extra $$$ to get an old Panasonic Toughbook
Version 2 :
Around $50
W211/R230 ABS/SBC TOOL (Repair Code C249F)
-Repair though OBDII, no need to open ABS assembly! Easy to operate!
1. Using the battery without external power supply.
2. LCD-screen with instruction , easy operation
3. Efficient repair, 3 seconds
1. Directly through the OBD-11 repair SBC internal computer fault code C249F, no need to open ABS assembly,
convenient and quick fix SBC completed within 10 seconds of data, a key to complete the operation.
2. SBC to repair the data first four models: 25% -50% -70% -100% user choice.
3. Can use of SBC and use fixed number of year return to zero, clear the fault code C249F maintenance reached the
limit, do not have to replace the SBC brake system!
If using DAS to check and diagnose the ABS/SBC system in Mercedes Benz's W211 and R230, there is a faults
showed: CODE C249F, OPERATION TIME OF COMPONENT A7/3 IS EXCEEDED (SBC HYDRAULIC UNIT). The
above hints mean OPERATING TIME OF COMPONENT is exceeded, it's necessary to replace new SBC HYDRAULIC
UNIT, but no need with W211/R230 tool.
For Mercedes Benz's Safety Precautions had stated that before attempting to repair the brake system on its models
W211 (E Class) and R230 (SL Class), the Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) system must be deactivated first using its
STAR-DIAGNOSIS tester.
Deactivation of the SBC system is absolutely necessary before carrying out any maintenance work onthe brakes like
changing of pads, discs and fluids because the system is under a pressure of 140 bars. Mechanics who perform brake
services on these car models must have the proper tools to avoid the risk of injuries to themselves and damage to the
brake system.
Until the introduction of this inexpensive, convenient, light, safe and easy to use SBC tool is another alternative to the
STAR-DIAGNOSIS tester when working on SBC system. It can perform the tasks equally well which is efficient and
safety.
After the repair had done, the SBC system can be activated and restore back its pressure. The memory is erased
automatically.
Version 3 :
Handheld, user friendly, simple and easy to use
Compatible with latest CAN vehicles
Allows enable and disable of SBC system for safe pad and disk replacement
Clear errors from the SBC system after carrying our repairs
Updateable (return back to SP Diagnostics)
Overview:
The new SP Diagnostics SBC tool has been created to allow you to service and replace brake pads and components
used in the SBC systems which have been fitted on a number of Mercedes vehicles (W211 and R230) since MY2003.
The SBC system incorporates various systems which have previously been separate, ABS, ASR, BAS,ESP and ETS.
The SBC system can be "woken up" by opening a door, operating the central locking,depressing the brakes, turning on
the ignition or operating the park brake. When this occurs the system runs pre-checks which include a pressurisation
of the braking system. If the brakes are either being worked on or are dismantled when these pre-checks occur it can
lead to personal injury or damage to parts of the caliper and pad assembly. The SBC tool allows you to disable the
system during service and repair work, thus allowing a safer working environment for the user.
Version 4 :
Resetting ECU and Clearing Codes (Without a Code Reader/Scan Tool) - Hard Reboot
NOTE : even if you clear codes, you must fix initial cause of code being present, or it will just return.
Hard Reboot Procedure :
It doesn't sound right, but it works (recommended by one of the Jag mechanics on this website). There's no problem
touching the neg. cable to the positive pole when it's not connected to the neg. pole of the battery, but you have a
serious problem when you connect both poles on the same battery together (that's a short circuit to ground).
Remember, never let the smoke out of the box (an old electrical engineer joke).
I was told by a service manager at a Honda dealer, who is sharp as a razor, that you should disconnect both posts(in
case there are secondary wires), then bind them together for at least a hour, preferably overnight, so that all
computers and sensors are completely drained of their back-up power and all codes cleared throughout the vehicle.
NOTE :
As Check Engine Light codes are stored in non-volatile memory, they will not erase with above procedure
As windows, clock, sunroof, radio (write down your remember anti-theft code) are stored in volatile memory
and will be erased, so following above procedure, you will require to reset each
There are some codes that can be cleared with battery disconnection or will clear themselves (like a lean/rich
condition) after drive cycles and show that the parameters are no longer in the 'red' zone (I believe the evap.
codes fall into that category).
Most codes, however, require the manual approach with a scan tool. Better yet, invest in a scan tool for
future use.
Parameters Reset :
If shift points are incorrect, the following resets the tranny ECU, etc.
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
8.
9.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Turn off your stereo (make sure you have your stereo's Anti-theft code)
Turn off your heat/AC blower
Make sure lights are off
Make sure your doors are UNLOCKED.
17.
18.
19.
Open your trunk and disconnect the negative side of your battery
Wait 30 seconds
Reconnect the battery.
Turn the key to position 2 (DO NOT START YOUR ENGINE)
Reset your windows (you only have ONE shot at this, so you must not screw up).
Bring down both windows at the same time by holding the switches just before the click that brings them
down automatically.
Once both windows are all the way down, make both switches click by pressing them all the way down
(this lets the ECU learn that that is the end of the window track and it records it in memory).
Do the same closing the windows, by holding both switches and making them click once the windows are
all the way up.
Turn on your blower and make both sides go to 72 deg. by pressing both up and down buttons at the
same time (this will calibrate the ECU)
Turn on your stereo and enter you stereo code (if you dont have it, you can forget about listening to the
radio).
Open and close roof fully
Turn all you lights on and off, including your fog lights
Turn the key back to position 0.
Turn on your engine.
You will get 2 malfunctions (your ABS and ESP systems must be calibrated)
Calibrate your ABS and ESP systems, by turning the steering wheel all the way to your RIGHT and then
all the way to your LEFT. Then bring it back to the middle (notice the two yellow lights will disappear from
you dashboard).
Let your car run in idle for about 5 minutes
Then take it for a spin.
Remember your ECU is still getting all the readings from all the sensors on your car, so drive slowly first
then faster... and so on. (you are basically teaching your ECU how to handle your car).
NOTE : If you do the reset, it will erase it and reset to OEM set up. The ECU must basically recalibrate itself
and learn about all your car's systems from scratch (not such a bad idea). At first the ABS and ESP lights may
come on, but they will go away after driving it a couple times. No problems.
Oil Additives
I suggest, under no circumstances, to add any additives to the engine oil. A good quality fully synthetic oil,
changed as MB suggested, is all you require for engine longevity.
OilLevel check
Mercedes-Benz ?
AC Delco ?
Bosch ?
Engine Oil
Royal Purples API licensed motor oil delivers superior protection and improves performance in gasoline and diesel
engines. Royal Purples API SN licensed motor oil meets ILSAC GF-5 and Dexos11 performance requirements. For
those seeking enhanced performance in vehicles not under warranty, we recommend our HPS Series of high
performance motor oils with our proprietary Synerlec additive technology. Royal Purple motor oil is compatible with
other mineral and synthetic motor oils. Its available in the following weights :
0W-20
0W-40
5W-20
5W-30
5W-40
10W-30
10W-40
15W-40
20W-50
An DIY oil change is easy, but removing the engine cover/splash guard, while on stands, is a chore (investigate if
possible to reach oil filter without removing belly pan?) :
Drive car on to
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_4R0SFS-Q0
draining. It also saves having it on ramps, etc., and possibly not level when draining, and also saves much time having
to remove and refit so many bolts for the under pans.
It may be possible to permanently remove a small portion of the engine cover/splash guard to enable access to the oil
filter and doesnt need access to the oil drain. An aluminium panel could be screwed in place which would be much
easier to remove.
1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8
Burnt?
1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8
1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8
Oiled?
1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8
1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8
Sooty?
1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8
1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8
MB OEM - NGK ILFR6A (1/3 of cost of MB dealer, at around $7.50 each and exactly the same as the original
iridium factory plugs, but minus the MB insignia stamp)
NGK ? Laser Platinum
NOTE : 6 = Heat range (6 is almost smack in the middle of the full range of plugs, 1 = hot, 12 = cold)
Why Iridium?
Pry spark plug connector off the spark plugs using open-end wrench (get a "Mercedes spark plug wire removal
tool." Many brands, but they are basically open ended 17mm crescent wrenches that have a offset at the end.
Just place over the metal ends of the spark plug boot and using your valve cover for leverage, the boots easily
pop out. Will prevent you from breaking the wires if you pulled them by hand)
Check spark plug connectors, ignition coil connectors and ignition wires for damage, deformation and crack
formation
Remove one plug at a time and replace old spark plug for new, and tighten (do not over tighten). For ease, get
the swivel factory spark plug tool (MB part 112 589 01 09 00) ($50) - comes in extremely handy for the left-side
rear most spark plugs.
Tighten by hand and then torque to 10 Nm or no more than 1/8th of a turn
Do not forget to put anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads
Refit the coil-pack tightening to 8 Nm (do one at a time so there's no chance of getting a coil in the wrong
cylinder)
Add a little Vaseline or Dielectric grease around the coil boot so they slip into place easier.
The valve covers have letters on them such as A and B for which cylinder they go in and corresponding A and B on
the coils and plug leads (any other letters like G K H or L would be the different lengths of wires).
Make sure you hear/feel that snap when putting the wire back on the spark plugs.
Refit air filter housing ensuring the catches (#7) do not break off when fitting on to the throttle valve actuator
(#M16/6), as the catches can be sucked into the engine.
Remember to moisten the sealing ring, throttle valve actuator and retaining rubbers with liquid lubricant (Part # A
000 989 01 60).
Refit cover on face end of engine
NOTE : when removing the air filter housing, make sure that the intake lines (#6) are not twisted. If
removed incorrectly, the steel ring in the intake lines can become deformed and work itself loose when the
engine is running. Remove air filter housing (when removing the central rubber hose that connects the air boxes
to the main intake, make sure you push the upper tab (what you can see) and the lower tabs outward before trying
to pull it out or you'll break the tab(s)). You'll also remove the left-side breather hose as well (it's connected to the
main rubber intake tube)
Remove each coil pack by removing the screw 5/3 on diagram below (see below).
Pry spark plug connector off the spark plugs using open-end wrench
Separate the electrical connector of ignition coil of each cylinder
Refit the coil-pack tightening bolt to 8 Nm (do one at a time so there's no chance of getting a coil in the wrong
cylinder)
Add a little Vaseline or Dielectric grease around the coil boot so they slip into place easier.
The valve covers have letters on them such as A and B for which cylinder they go in and corresponding A and B on
the coils and plug leads (any other letters like G K H or L would be the different lengths of wires).
Make sure you hear/feel that snap when putting the wire back on the spark plugs.
Refit air filter housing
Refit cover on face end of engine
OEM # ?
Green Air Filter - Part # 2247 (2 required) + 15 hp. Constructed with 100% polyurethane on all four sides, this
high flow, oiled OE replacement performance filter will out flow stock paper filter for improved horsepower and
torque. Five layers of progressively finer mesh cotton gauze media provide maximum airflow for best
performance results. Washable and reusable for multiple cleaning cycles, the tall open evenly space pleats
provide excellent dust holding capacity for longer service cycle between cleanings. Integrated urethane bump
seal insures tight, no leak seal over the life of the filter.
NOTE : when removing the air filter housing, make sure that the intake lines (#6) are not twisted. If
removed incorrectly, the steel ring in the intake lines can become deformed and work itself loose when the
engine is running. Remove air filter housing (when removing the central rubber hose that connects the air boxes
to the main intake, make sure you push the upper tab (what you can see) and the lower tabs outward before trying
to pull it out or you'll break the tab(s)). You'll also remove the left-side breather hose as well (it's connected to the
main rubber intake tube)
Install in reverse order, ensuring the catches (#7) do not break off when fitting on to the throttle valve actuator
(#M16/6), as the catches can be sucked into the engine.
Remember to moisten the sealing ring, throttle valve actuator and retaining rubbers with liquid lubricant (Part # A
000 989 01 60).
Leaking valve cover gaskets in areas such as this, is typical and can usually appear in a few spots.
NOTE : when removing the air filter housing, make sure that the intake lines (#6) are not twisted. If
removed incorrectly, the steel ring in the intake lines can become deformed and work itself loose when the
engine is running. Remove air filter housing (when removing the central rubber hose that connects the air boxes
to the main intake, make sure you push the upper tab (what you can see) and the lower tabs outward before trying
to pull it out or you'll break the tab(s)). You'll also remove the left-side breather hose as well (it's connected to the
main rubber intake tube)
Remove each coil pack by removing the bolt on each (label each coil pack with masking tape so you know what
goes where as you'll be removing them)
Pry spark plug connector off the spark plugs using open-end wrench
Swing the coils and plug wires up to rest them on top of the engine (no need to unplug the harness).
Remove the valve covers (they come off with very little effort)
NOTE : there is a braided fuel line going to the fuel rails, which you need to disconnect, before you can
remove the left-hand-side valve cover. Undo it slowly (have a towel underneath it) and unless the car has
sat for a while, there will be some fuel under pressure.
Clean up the valve cover (some elbow grease and a soft wire brush will work)
The bottom of the valve cover has a groove cast into it so the new gasket will seat in and hold.
Remember to reseal the vent chamber on top of the valve covers (there is no rubber gasket for it; just clean off the
old liquid gasket and apply new liquid gasket)
NOTE : make sure the aluminium tube on the very right of the cover gets poked back into the grommet in
the supercharger plenum, otherwise it will throw a code. Its the tube that runs along the side of the body of the
car parallel with the valve cover on the left-hand-side and it turns into and goes under the intake plenum area near
the throttle body. Just don't pull on anything and you'll be alright. You need a mirror to see where it would fit back in
to the plenum but if you just poke it in there, you should get it in first time. As well as throwing a code, it will also
cause a bad idle. The reason why it comes off, is because you have to remove the bracket that holds it which is
bolted down on the corner of the valve cover, so make sure you plug it back in.
Bolt the valve covers down to spec (72 in/lb.)
The valve covers have letters on them such as A and B for which cylinder they go in and corresponding A and B on
the coils and plug leads (any other letters like G K H or L would be the different lengths of wires).
Finished
Vacuum Leaks
If your car develops a high pitched whistling sound in right side of engine when idling and low speed, which goes away
if a valve cover hose is removed and vented to the atmosphere, then suspect a vacuum leak. Make sure the throttle
bodies are tight and the the vacuum hose, under the right side cover, is hooked up.
The throttle valve, over a period of time, can build up a sticky oily residue. This can cause issues with low rev throttle
response, but easily rectified and only takes about 10 minutes. You need a medium-sized flat-bladed screwdriver, and
carburettor/injector cleaner aerosol.
Pull the black pipe off, so that you can see the throttle flap.
Wearing goggles, and using carburettor/injector cleaner aerosol, spray the metal flap, also opening the flap with
your fingers, so that the edges and intake area is properly cleaned. The excess cleaner will just evaporate away,
and as this is flammable the usual precautions should be followed.
Now, just refit the pipe and clip, making sure it is fastened correctly.
MAF Replacement
If MAF is found to be faulty, its easy to replace (takes less than 5 min) :
Pull the front air box cover up, and then towards you.
Pull off the 2 plastic air tubes.
Lift the whole air box up and off.
The MAF is the plastic housing that the air gets forced in from the air box.
Disconnect the wiring harness
Unclip the plastic holder and pry the holding clip back with a flat screwdriver.
Install in reverse.
MAF around $168 from Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts. The AM dealer quotes over $1000 for the
dealership to replace it. Cheapest place should be Bosch, as they made it.
Put one 20 oz. bottle of Chevrons Techron Concentrate Fuel System Cleaner (not Chevron ProGuard), into
the fuel tank
Just run through the entire tank
Oxygen sensors
Catalytic Converters
If you have any engine hesitation (at any rpm), there are a couple of inexpensive things that you can try :
check O2 sensors, although should be OK if no Check Engine light on (O2 or air mass sensor problems
always bring on the Check Engine light).
change the plugs with new set of new NGK
The O sensors are made by BOSH, so its very easy to find them on the internet, for around $100 each.
The O sensors are installed in treaded holes in the catalytic converters, and are pretty easy to change (but a little bit
fiddly to access). For the fronts, you just have to remove the bottom covers, then use a bent 22mm wrench and pull/
replace a connector.
Before we get started it's best to use googles or protective eye gear as fuel will spill out (about 4 oz). Now on to the
good stuff, Jack up the car and support it with Two jacks. The fuel filter is located right directly about your rear
differential, on the driver's side of the vehicle, you can't miss it.
Step 1 :
Release Fuel pressure. Very easy, just open the fuel filler cap.
Step 2 :
Cut the clamps off with the cutting pliers, all you want to do is break the clamps, not damage the rubber fuel hoses.
Step 3 :
Now loosen the four 10mm plastic bolts holding the fuel filter and fuel filter housing in place. On the 4th and last bolt
that's located under the hose it'll be a bit of a squeeze, I used the same ratchet to pry the hose up far enough for me to
squeeze in the socket and then reattached the ratchet and loosened the bolt off. Same practice will come in handy
when reinstalling the bolt towards the end of installation.
Step 4 :
Now that everything is loose, it's time to loosen the hoses connected to the fuel filter, don't remove them just yet!
Before removing any hoses place a catch pan underneath, then clamp the hose going from the fuel tank to the filter
(That'll stop any fuel from being released from that end, any fuel that'll spill will come from the filter to the connecting
hose that goes towards the engine. Now remove hoses and let the filter drain.
Step 5 :
Take the new clamps and install them into the two hoses.
This is the fuel line from the gas tank to the fuel filter.
This is the fuel line from the fuel filter to the engine.
Step 6 :
Remove fuel filter and install the rubber mounting brackets to the new filter.
Step 7 :
Install new filter, Take note of the "Direction Of Gas Flow" indicator, it should have an arrow pointing the direction of
gas flow, which should be installed pointing in the direction of the engine. Meaning gas flows from the gas tank, to the
fuel filter, to the engine. So have the arrow pointing in the right direction, and now do everything in reverse order and
your done.
Attach fuel lines to new filter, screw tight clamps, and finally bolt back the fuel filter bracket to the vehicle.
Finished product.
The remote control may have to be resynchronized, if the vehicle cannot be locked or unlocked. To synchronize insert
electronic key in steering lock. The remote control should once again be operational.
Synchronizing Steering Column Height/Easy Exit:
Steering wheel height - basically the same procedure as windows, etc., but with a caution. Move your steering column
down SLIGHTLY, and if you can then bring it back up to where it started (but not higher), then you need to reset the
column with the simple procedure below. HOWEVER, if it goes down slightly, but will not go back up at all, do not try
the reset - it probably will go fully down and not come back up! You may not be able to get into the car to drive, if that
happens. Get it serviced.
Run the steering column full down, and hold the switch down for about 10 seconds after it reaches the lowest position;
then run it back up fully and hold the switch up for about 10 seconds after the column reaches its upper limit of travel.
You may need to do this several times. That should reset the limits in the Halls' Effect generator, and your column
should function normally.
If the steering column will not move at all, it is either a broken nylon connector inside the column, a bad motor, or a
fuse problem.
Seats (easy exit) - try running them to the limits also; however, the seats slide back in the easy exit mode only if they
are pretty far forward in the first place. if they are back beyond certain limits (set by Mercedes), not sliding further back
is normal operation.
Not all cars have easy exit feature, and those that do must have the option selected in the MFD (instrument cluster)
menu.
Resetting Automatic Windshield Wiper Function (with a tip of the hat to mvmiler):
First, pull and reseat your windshield wiper relays (locations are on the fuse diagram usually found in the tool
compartment in your spare tire well).
With engine running and all passenger doors closed, starting at 0 turn on wipers to #3 position, then put the switch in
the 0 position then put it in the auto #1 (rain sensor position) then have someone splash water on the windshield as
the doors have to be closed to reset this function. Then they should function normally.
NOTE : short version for my Port Injected car documents (explaining why its better to avoid Direct Injection)
Preamble
The following information on Direct Injection does not concern your Port Injected vehicle. I felt it was an enlightening
exercise to provide Direct Injection details, in an attempt to point out its inherent disadvantages over Port Injection.
By explaining Direct Injection, in the following, I trust that you will come to realize how fortunate you are to be a Port
Injected vehicle, avoiding all the Direct Injection pitfalls.
Lets first look at the difference between traditional Port Injection engines that would never see intake valve coking
issues as long as a good top tier fuel was used. With a port injection engine the intake valves are always showered in
a fuel spray that kept the intake valves clean and deposit free :
Although this kept the intake valves clean, it was not the most efficient way to introduce fuel precisely like the direct
injection of today.
Port Fuel Injection - has fuel injectors that spray into the intake ports, and the air/fuel mixture is drawn in
through the intake valve.
Direct Injection - has injectors that spray fuel directly in to the combustion chamber, so the only thing the
engine is drawing in when the intake valves open is air. The air is mixed with the fuel directly in the combustion
chamber.
GDI is the new generation of fuel injection (port fuel injection replaced the carburettor somewhere back in the
80s). In a GDI engine, by squirting fuel right into the individual cylinder, the engine has the advantage of getting a
higher quality of combustion and an increase in combustion efficiency. This means that a smaller engine with directinjection can make as much power as a bigger engine without direct injection. By precisely timing and placing the
injection of the fuel into the cylinder, engineers have managed to ensure a more efficient combustion with less
pollution.
GDI or Gasoline Direct Injection has been around since 2002. VW owned the patent but in the past few years the
technology has become available to all manufacturers. As more GDI vehicles come to market, we are loving the fuel
sipping feature of this engineering design, but it comes at a very high maintenance cost.
NOTE : by 2015, some manufacturers are moving away from or modifying their Direct Injection setups. Ford
are bringing out the new 2016 Mustang Shelby GT350, with the Voodoo flat-plane crank V8 and only port
injection, while Audi/VW have modified their Direct Injection engines combined with Port Injection.
hesitation
stumbling
misfiring
hard starting
NOTE : The thicker the carbon deposit buildup on the valves, the worse the drivability problems.
21.
22.
The main reason (unique to GDI) is that fuel and added detergents are not hitting the back of the intake valves.
By injecting the fuel directly into the cylinder instead of at the back of the valve, the gasoline and detergents
cant clean the valve and port.
Second (applicable to port injection also, but made worse by GDI), leaner mixtures and higher combustion
pressures can make the problem worse over time. A direct fuel injection motor produces more energy from a
given amount of fuel and air than a port fuel injection engine. Todays engines operate on a ragged edge
between optimal efficiency and a misfire. There is not much room for error like hot spots in the combustion
chamber or a worn spark plug.When a hot spot or sub-optimal flame front is created due to turbulent air, the
amount of unburned fuel in the combustion chamber increases. When the valve opens during the intake stroke,
it might come in contact with these byproducts, and unlike the exhaust valve, the gases passing by are not hot
enough to burn it off.
Third (applicable to port injection also, but made worse by GDI), the intake valve goes into the combustion
chamber, regardless if it is port fuel injected or direct injected. When it does, for that small period of time, it is
exposed to combustion byproducts that can stick to the neck of the valve. If the last combustion cycle was less
than optimal, the intake valve is exposed.
This blow-by also causes pressure in the crankcase, that needs to either be vented to atmosphere or drawn back in
to the engines intake system to be burned off in the combustion process. The former is better for your engine while
the latter is obviously more environmentally friendly, but the byproduct of drawing the PCV air back in to the intake
system is carbon build-up (contains oil vapour, water vapour and other combustion gases).
On a port fuel injected vehicle this isnt usually an issue, as the fuel injectors are spraying inside the intake ports, on
the back side of the valves and parts of the intake ports and this effectively helps keep everything constantly clean.
However, on a direct injected vehicle, oil vapour residue continues to collect on the inside of the intake manifold, the
intake ports, and the intake valves and is never being washed off. This rapidly bakes on to the surfaces, to create a
very hard carbon build-up. 90% of the GDI carbon build-up issue, is caused by oil vapours from PCV induction.
Higher GDI Combustion Temperatures :
To compound the PCV issue, GDI combustion chamber temperatures are much higher, due to "stratified lean mode" of
air fuel mixture (30:1 to 50:1 air fuel ratios), the higher temperatures creating a much harder valve carbon deposit.
Injector Tip Deposits :
The other problem is the deposits in the combustion chamber and injector tip. The injector has a director plate on it,
creating multiple spray streams targeting the piston top. The piston top has a very specific shape so when the high
pressure fuel streams enter the combustion chamber the shape of the piston will properly distribute the fuel through
out the combustion chamber. When the deposit build up covers the injector tip, effecting the director spray pattern, and
changes the shape of the top of the piston, the engine is less efficient and less powerful. This condition can be
mitigated with the use high quality fuel tank additives such as BG's 44K (note, doesnt contact nor affect intake valves,
so only cleans injector itself).
Longevity Due to Much Higher Fuel Pressure Injection :
GDI longevity concerns, due to requiring significantly higher fuel inlet pressures than port injection (difference is
thousands of PSI). This puts a great deal of strain on every piece of the fuel delivery chain. This is not a problem on a
new engine, but 50,000 miles down the road, and it may be. Manufacturers have been relatively proactive in this
department by specifying robust, stainless steel fuel lines and connections, but that hasnt stopped fuel pump recalls
from already occurring. Some high-pressure fuel pumps, like those used with BMWs twin-turbo direct injection engine
in the 2007-2010 335i, the 20082010 135i, 535i and X6 xDrive35i, as well as the 20092010 Z4 Roadster sDrive35i
have been known to fail prematurely.
Engine Fire Risk Due to Much Higher Fuel Pressure Injection :
Much higher fuel pressure has a much higher risk of engine fires.
The Effect of Increased Percentages of Ethanol on Injector Longevity :
The percentage of ethanol in gasoline at the pumps is steadily increasing. Ethanol has a tendency to increase the
corrosion rate of the various metals used in an engine. Add the elevated fuel pressure and the fact the injector is
directly exposed to in-cylinder combustion events, then you have a higher chance of a problem or failure.
Furthermore, these in-cylinder injectors are very sensitive to fuel quality, due to outrageously tight tolerances. It is very
important to use high quality fuels and keep the filters clean.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Particulates Add to the Issue :
Many advanced GDI engines also include exhaust gas recirculation, in order to lean out the combustion mixture and
reduce in-cylinder temperatures, for certain combustion modes (reducing NOx emissions). Since GDI combustion has
the ability to produce far more soot than premixed combustion (port injection), the problem is magnified.
Hardened Carbon Deposits Damaging Downstream Components :
Very alarming, is the fact that carbon deposits bake and harden over time, then can dislodge and damage other
downstream components (turbochargers, catalytic converters, etc.). As a result, there are many disappointed early
GDI adopters with large repair bills.
Especially in the area of the neck of the intake valves, excessive carbon deposits have extremely negative effects. The
successful ignition of the stratified charge depends to a great extent on the correct development of the internal cylinder
flow, which ensures reliable transport of the injected fuel to the spark plug to guarantee reliable ignition at the spark
plug. However, a coating of carbon deposits in the neck region of the intake valve may interfere so strongly with the
tumble flow that ignition failures may occur there as a result.
Under certain circumstances, however, ignition failures can lead to irreversible damage of a catalytic converter
installed in the exhaust gas tract for purifying the exhaust gas.
Furthermore, the coating of carbon deposits in the neck region of the intake valve causes flow resistance, which can
lead to significant performance losses due to insufficient cylinder filling, especially in the upper load and speed range
of the internal combustion engine.
In addition, the carbon deposits in the neck region of the intake valve may prevent correct valve closing, which leads to
compression losses and thus sporadic ignition failures. This in turn could irreversibly damage the catalytic converter.
There is the potential for small particles to break away from the coating of carbon deposits in the neck region of the
intake valve and get into the catalytic converter. These hot particles may then cause secondary reaction and
corresponding local damage of the catalytic converter. For example, a hole may be burned in the structure of the
catalytic converter."
Improper Valve and Camshaft Timing :
Some direct injection vehicles with variable valve timing can expose the valve to combustion byproducts as the valves
adjust, which creates a scavenging effect to either pull or leave behind a small amount of exhaust gases in the
chamber to control NOX emissions.
Also, some turbocharged direct injection engines will leave the intake and exhaust valves open at the same time in
order to keep the turbo spinning to reduce lag.
Some direct injection engines have bad timing. The modern engine typically has variable valve timing and even
cylinder deactivation. The engine management system can control when, how long and, in some cases, how deep the
valve goes into the combustion chamber. If an intake valve is dropping into a combustion chamber with
combustion byproducts or unburned fuel, the valve might be exposed to the precursors that cause carbon
build-up.
Valve Guide Seal Leaks (Lower Viscosity or Non Synthetic Oils) :
Intake valve deposits form as a result of oil slowly seeping past the intake valve guide seals and down the valve
guides. A tiny amount of oil is necessary to lubricate the guides, but when oil reaches the hot surface of the valve, it
can stick and burn forming heavy black carbon deposits that gradually build up over time. The higher the mileage on
the engine and the greater the wear in the valve guides and seals, the faster the accumulation of black carbon
deposits on the intake valves.
Low viscosity motor oils (such as 5W-20 and 0W-20) may make the problem worse because they are thinner (to
reduce friction) and flow more easily down the valve guides.
Conventional motor oils also have a lower flash point than synthetic oils, which can also increase the formation of
deposits over time.
NOTE : The reason these aforementioned issues have slipped through to production, is that they wont show
up in a 500,000 mile torture test. These types of issues will simply appear after years of short trips (preventing
the engine from reaching operating temperature), bad batches of fuel, etc.
As we approach the efficiency limits of the internal combustion engine, the engines themselves (and associated
support systems) have become more complex. As with the transition from carburettors to electronic fuel injection, there
will be some overlap between relatively bomb-proof port injected engines and the unproven, first-generation GDI
engines.
BMW 335i after 40,000 miles :
Cooling System
NOTE : Engine Water Temperature should run right on 90 degrees C (200 degrees F).
Anti-Freeze
Antifreeze if it is blue is Texaco. You can find it if you shop around. Sometimes at Advance Auto Parts. If it is green you
have no idea most times but you can use the Prestone universal for now.
Best bet is to make sure the fluid is kept fresh ever year. If you are going to do it yourself. Make sure the shop doing
the belt service drains the entire system when the belts are done. Some guys don't drain the system at the dealership
so keep that in mind. The level is in the owners manual.
Check the overflow pipe for blockage from the tank to the outlet
It could also be a faulty tank cap
Or the top hose has lost its resistance and become weak (if hose is easily squashed and feels soft, replace it)
Cooling Fan
The cooling fan in the engine doesnt work at 100%, normally happens to the 95-98, minor problem but I think the age
has something to do with it.
Exhaust System
Transmission
Detach
R134a
Type SP 10 (Sanden)
A/C Drains
If some debris.
Trinary Switch
Trinary switches provide compressor protection against high side pressures that are too high or too low. There are 2
styles of pressure switch, binary and trinary.
The binary switch simply splices between the compressor clutch and evaporator thermostat and taps into the high
pressure line. When pressures exceed safe limits, the switch opens the circuit to the compressor clutch thus
disengaging the compressor until pressure return to normal.
The trinary switch operates much the same as the binary in that it shuts down the compressor when pressures rise.
However, the trinary also controls an electric fan on the radiator that pulls additional air across the condenser to bring
pressures down.
Evaporator
Evaporator
348 (1989-1995) A/C Charging (used here only as A/C system example)
I just recently performed the A/C service on my 1995 348, in doing so I discovered a product that works better than
traditional R134a. So I decided I would put together my first How to, for all of you do-it-yourselfers there on FChat.
The product I used was called Arctic Freeze Refrigerant R-134a+ It is made by Interdynamics; it replaces lost
refrigerant & oil to the A/C system and was developed for NASA. If you would like to do some reading up on the
differences of R134a to R134a+, here is a link to a .pdf file that I used.
http://www.originenergy.com.au/business/files/r134at.pdf
I can attest to it being a much better product to give your Ferraris A/C better cooling. A link to their website and
product page is below.
http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=7&PID=215
About R12 and R134
All 1993 and newer vehicles, are supposed to use Refrigerant #134a and 134a oil. R134 uses different oil than the
older R12 system, and since R134 doesnt get quite as cold, the R134 system typically uses more Freon.
Many manufacturers didnt want to redesign the A/C, so they continued to use the older systems, filling them instead
with R134, and retrofitting them with the newer style ports. Please be aware of the type of system you have before
beginning, an easy way to tell is looking at the Charge ports.
Charge port for an R12 system
If you have charge port for R12, take it to a qualified service centre (either to be converted to R134 or charged with
R12, which is unavailable to the public). Note - the cost of replacing all the failed parts from mixing the 2 different
types of refrigerant and oils will cost well into the thousands.
To refill a partially discharged system
You will need Freon, and the appropriate charge hose. These are available at your local auto parts store. Some cans
come with the hose, and a relatively useless gauge. The gauge is unreliable, and shouldnt be used to guess the
amount of Freon in the system, as its only measuring pressure, and not the level of the Freon. Pressure varies with
the outside temperature, and the temperature of the parts, and the barometer outside the car, making the gauge next
to useless.
Locate the dryer (on the 1995 Ferrari 348 the dryer is located on the passenger side of the trunk, under the
carpeting). It looks something like this:
On the top of it is a little glass window (verify that your Ferrari has this window).
If it does not, please take it to a service centre to be filled (they will carefully meter out the Freon and add the
exact amount).
Start the engine, and turn the Air conditioner on full.
First you must vacuum out the system to remove any moisture.
If the system has been wide open for some time (like if you had disconnected the A/C lines and left it that way)
then it is recommended for maximum performance, that you replace the dryer/accumulator. If you dont I advise
you spend additional time vacuuming out the system.
Vacuuming out the system requires an A/C vacuum pump, and also the R134 Charge hose. Both should be
available at a local auto parts supplier.
You should vacuum out the system for at least 5 minutes (longer if the system has been open for any period of
time).
Verify the system is holding a vacuum (this can be done using an A/C pressure gauge). If the system still had
Freon in it before you began, its generally safe to assume that there was no large leak, and that the system is
still holding vacuum.
Check the service manual, before charging the system, to verify the capacity of the air conditioning system (do
not overcharge the system). Most R134 systems will take somewhere in the range of 18-24 oz. of Freon. To
gauge the amount of Freon, first look at the capacity of the cans (most of them are 12oz).
If you have replaced the Compressor, or otherwise had the system cleaned with A/C solvents you must add the
amount of compressor oil specified in the service manual.
If you have not replaced anything, you should add 2-3 oz of R134 compatible oil (add the oil first, before adding
Freon).
1999 Ferrari 360 AC Recharge (but can be adapted for SL55 AMG)
Over the last month or so, my AC suddenly didn't feel as cold as I thought it did in April of this year. I figured it was time
to check the refrigerant level and refill if needed. I had seen the self fill "easy to use" bottles of R134a when walking
through Pep Boys and decided to give it a try to see if it was as easy as advertised. I'm happy to report that it is, even
on a Ferrari.
As my 360 is a 1999 MY with the charging ports behind the inner trunk lining instead of under the three screwed panel
under the driver side of the windshield.
Standing in Pep Boys, there were two choices that I liked...in the end, I went with the "idQ Arctic Freeze 134a+" that
included a short hose and low side quick connect fitting. No particular reason, I can't imagine there were any
differences between the different brands. My final decision was based on the quick connect fitting, the one that came
with the Arctic Freeze looked sturdier to me. $34.99 for the 18 ounce can and re-usable gauge.
Back in the garage:
1. Remove the inner trunk panels.
2. Locate the recharge ports. The low side fitting is what you will need to recharge the refrigerant. It is the smaller of
the two and as they are different sizes you should not mix these two up.
3. Facing towards the inside of the car, the low side fitting is on the passenger side of the car and is the one on your
left.
4. Remove the plastic protective cap. Also, prep your refrigerant by shaking the bottle and removing the safety tab if
there is one.
5. Now that you have everything ready, start the car and turn the AC on by setting the temperature dial to Lo and the
flow dial to Auto. Also, make sure the STOP button is out and not illuminated.
6. With the car and AC running, plug the quick connect fitting onto the charging port of the car. You should now see a
reading on your gauge.
7. The low side reading should be between 20-30 PSI. If your refrigerant level is low, simply squeeze the trigger on the
bottle to dispense refrigerant into the system. You will have to agitate the bottle, shaking or moving the bottle around
as you have the trigger depressed.
8. Check the reading by letting go of the trigger, the gauge will read 0 when you have the trigger depressed to
dispense the refrigerant. At 28 PSI, my AC now felt very cold again. I didn't have a thermometer to measure the actual
temp, but the air coming out was noticeable colder than before.
9. When you have completed refilling your system, be careful removing the fitting from the charging port as some of
the components and piping in the vicinity may have become hot to the touch. Take care not to burn yourself.
Very simple to do, ended up costing just $34.99 and about 30-40 minutes including panel removal time and
reinstallation. Just go out and buy one of these at your local Walmart or UK equivalent.
Then open the panel in the front boot beneath the windshield. the AC recharge low pressure port will be visible and it
will have the larger diameter nipple onto which you can fit the charger. Put it on, look at the pressure with the car
running and then add some if you need. Just be careful not to put too much coolant in. Too much and the compressor
gets strained and you could kill it... just be warned.
Revisit the hi-lo connectors and tighten up the shraeder valve and I can almost guarantee you that you won't have to
recharge the freon for a long time. The tool is cheap at your local autozone shop.
Rust Prevention
When youve got a mint-condition car, but you want to use it as your everyday car and cover about 10,000 miles a year
in it, youve got to work out how youre going to do that and still keep it looking good. You can lovingly wash and wax it,
but what about whats going on underneath the car, andhow do you keep the dreaded rust at bay?
The best way of protecting the car against the inevitable assault from water and, even worse, the tons of salt that
councils will no doubt be throwing down once the big freeze begins, is a full cavity wax injection with a full under seal.
Note : the combination treatment of Dinitrol 3125 with Dinitrol 4941 is considered more effective than Waxoyl.
Rust Inhibitor (POR-15)
Injecting something, even a good phosphate conversion etchant, is like prescribing sex to a nymphomaniac; at best it's
temporary relief. Also, most etchants need to be neutralised, usually by a thorough water rinse, otherwise the
phosphoric acid will cause rust to resume more aggressively.
You need to kill the rust, which the POR15 metal ready etch does, by converting it to zinc phosphate. You then seal it
with a coating that's impervious to oxygen and moisture, which the POR15 paint does. Then it can be repainted &
won't resume, as the paint further seals the surface. Bondo doesn't work because it doesn't block moisture. However,
you can use bondo over something like POR15, then the paint will seal the bondo well enough so that problems won't
develop.
Sandblast or grind out the rust affected areas, apply POR-15 followed with 2 coats of rubberised undercoating.
POR-15 dries rock hard. POR-15 flat black paint can be used as the top coat.
Rust Inhibitor (LPS-3)
Spray LPS-3 rust inhibitor spray on the inside of the door and look for a couple of used, galvanised doors.
Underbody Protection (Wurth SKS Stoneguard)
Without doubt, Wurth's water-based black undercoating. You can spray or brush it on. It goes on grey, then dries to a
PERFECT satin black match. Matches OEM Porsche, BMW, Mercedes and other European auto makers' "body
schutz" or undercoating.
Can be built up because it doesn't run on vertical surfaces. SKS is water based, fast drying and flexible when dry. May
be painted or left as applied. It is best applied with a Wurth SKS Gun, but may be applied with a brush.
11335 Wurth SKS Stone Guard - Beige, 1000 ml bottle
11336 Wurth SKS Stone Guard - Black, 1000 ml bottle
11337 Wurth SKS Stone Guard - Grey, 1000 ml bottle
11338 Wurth SKS Stone Guard Spray Gun
They now have the stuff in 14 oz spray cans (aerosol). Manufactured in Germany.
Ive been looking into which products would be best for weatherstrip maintenance and have decided to avoid siliconecontaining products altogether. Through a series of e-mails and research, my personal choices are :
303 Aerospace Protectant (with UV screening) for routine use on all exposed rubber and other select surfaces
DuPont Krytox Lubricants for problem areas that squeak (rubber and plastic alike), such as the header rail in
convertibles, cup holders, etc.
This product is widely available at a reasonable price. Shelf life is a minimum of five years. Two sources are Autopia
Car Care and Autogeek.
Krytox Weatherstrip Lubricant may be applied after the 303 treatment, if necessary :
treatment areas for Krytox should receive limited exposure to dust and dirt, as it may remain somewhat tacky
and can attract dust (it could also rub off on clothing if applied too heavily).
unlike the 303 product, Krytox is not wiped off after application, rather a thin layer is massaged into the rubber
and left in place.
available as both an oil and light grease, choice depends on area being treated and/or personal preference.
care must be taken not to get any on glass or painted surfaces, not because of potential damage but because
its difficult to remove once its on there.
reapplication isnt necessary nearly as often as with 303 Aerospace Protectant.
Shelf life is indefinite.
Part # ?
Cover your seats - cheap insurance. Retract the top and open the hatch. If there is dust or dirt inside the roof or
the hatch sills, vacuum it out. Get the remainder with detailers spray and a rag.
Clean excess gunk from ALL bits of the track with a Q-tip. I didn't use cleaner or solvent. Wouldn't recommend it.
Look hard. Find every bit of the track you can, from the top, from inside. Retract the roof a small amount to get
to the aft track bits. Be sure to get in (as best you can) to the diffusers/seals both fore and aft of the glass. The
rear is especially tough, barely possible.
Do the same for all moving parts of the hatch hinges and the lock flange. There hinge mechanism is pretty
complex. Actually quite cool.
Use the McLube oil on a Q-tip, to coat the tracks (not the sills, the black track), the hatch hinges and the flange.
You don't need a lot of oil, just coat the surface. Excess just attracts dust. Again look hard at the track. Find &
lube every bit you can - from inside & out, partially & fully retracted roof.
Cycle the roof and the hatch. Repeat the lube process.
For the moving bits of the diffusers/seals you can't reach, use the McLube spray with the red tube extension.
Both diffuser pieces have hinges. I think that the rear diffuser/seal (between the roof and the hatch) is the
source of 90% of the problems. So look closely - anywhere that hard plastic sits against a solid piece of the roof.
The McLube spray dries clean. It will not attract dust and grime. Its possible that the McLube spray would do the whole
job. No need for the oil. I'd consider trying that if your car is in a dusty environment. But since Porsche used a more
viscous product, I use the bearing oil.
Total time
Result
: about 20 minutes
: Silence. No issues.
NOTE : Don't wear jeans (you'll be leaning over the car a lot; easy to scratch your paint).
Mercedes has manufactured a repair kit (Part # A 230 750 01 11) for the hanging flap problem. When you get this kit
(see image below) and compare the replacement parts to the old ones you will see that the replacement parts are
superior in strength. MB dealer charges $575.00 to fix for a $60 part.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Repair-Kit-Convertible-Top-Flap-__2307500111_GEN_5C1313F8.aspx
Installing the Repair Kit (20 min per side)
If your Vario roof stops working one day, it could be that the trunk flap is not sitting tight against the trunk lid. Sensors
monitor the positions of these flaps, and these sensors might not be tripped by a flap that is sagging too low. I never
had problems with my roof not working, but after reading through various posts of others that had, i decided to check
out the condition of my flaps. To my surprise my passenger flap was sagging quite a bit (my drivers side was fine). I
then discovered that Mercedes released an updated part to resolve this issue. The new part is heavily reinforced and
will resist bending much better than the original part.
Also, don't bother with the adjusting screws as they don't work very well for adjusting the tension of the flap.
Remove the fasteners that hold the boot/trunk partition fabric in place. Use a flat head screwdriver and carefully pry
up the middle of each fastener. Then remove the bottom portion by prying it up as well.
Once the 2-piece fasteners are removed, there are snaps (behind the partition) that hold the rest of the partition
fabric to the base. Carefully unsnap these using just your fingers.
Remove the 2-piece snap fasteners at the corner of the partition fabric. Pry out the middle first, then release the
fabric.
Remove the grey covers that hide the mechanics of the partition hinges. Then remove the Torx bolts (one either
hinge) that holds the partition hinge.
Pull back carpet on sides to remove 1 Torx bolt on either side (its not attached at top; just wedged in). This panel is
overlapped by the boot side panels but only by half an inch so can be bent a little either side and coxed out. If you're
uncomfortable doing this, you'll have to remove quite a lot of the boot linings to get the side pieces off, and really it's
not worth it.
Remove two of the 2-piece fasteners from each side of the plastic piece on top of back carpet panel.
Then remove the carpet covering the back wall to expose the fuel tank. Now youll see the fuel sender opening and
the long black plastic piece (with screw fastenings) covering it. Remove all three screws and remove the black plastic
section.
The sender is a bayonet fit in to the top of the tank and only needs a quarter turn to remove, but make sure you
unclip the sender wire first. Before removing, the sender, remember to make a mark on the tank and sender to help
when refitting it as it only works in one position.
Next, unfasten the wiring harnesses and set aside (disconnect two plugs).
You will now need to make a tool to remove the sender unit. It should look like a small piece of wood with two screws
in it (as in image below) :
The screws on the tool insert into the peg holes on the top of the fuel sender (also found that with a pair of "bent
needle nose" pliers you can stick one tip in each hole of the fuel sender and just twist. No need to buy or make a tool
to turn the fuel sender unit).
Turn the fuel sender to the left (counter-clockwise) a few degrees. This will release the fuel level sender.
Remove the fuel level sender by carefully pulling it out of the hole (fuel level sender and float removed) :
Buy a pack of springs and choose best one for job. Try to pick one with a ready-made loop on one side (easier to
attach to the ring on fuel sender). Bend the other side of the spring, to hook behind loose baffle.
NOTE : Use a heavy duty coat hanger (a metal garden tomato stake works well) to hook on and pull the baffle away
from the front wall of the tank (hooked into a handy slot in the baffle plate, just below the bend).
Mercedes seem to have created the perfect car in the SL55 AMG, but carrying capacity is limited. To add a hitchmounted bike rack or tow a small lightweight utility trailer would be a nice feature, especially with such a heavy car at
4,310 lb. curb weight (just under 2 ton).
On researching everywhere, including Mercedes-Benz in Germany, SL (R230) forums, tow hitch manufacturers, etc., I
have been unable to locate a trailer hitch for the SL55 AMG.
A couple of manufacturers have offered to make one but I have to deliver my car to southern US. My next option is
either to purchase a CURT SLK trailer hitch and custom adapt to fit the SL55 AMG, or have a custom hitch fabricated
locally.
Found this on German site, but cannot locate supplier yet, but going to keep trying :
Google search phrase converted to German :
mercedes r230 anhngerkupplung anhngevorrichtung
mercedes r230 attelage
mercedes r230 trekhaak
mercedes R230 trkstang
mercedes R230 anhngertrk
mercedes r230 gancho de remolque
German
French
Dutch
Danish
Danish
Spanish
- 45 kg (100 lb)
- 450 kg ( 1,000 lb)
Set the hitch under the car and prepare to align it.
Use the level to mark the centre of the inner bumper just above the spare tire well (this will allow you to align the
level, trunk lock and hitch centres).
Once you have the centres marked and aligned, set the hitch in place and mark the two holes with the marker.
Pull the hitch away and drill the two holes.
Clean up around the well and areas.
You can now loose mount the hitch.
Make sure everything looks like it is going to fit then snug it up a bit.
Now drill the remaining two holes from inside the trunk using the metal backer as a guide (again, snug the bolts
and see that everything aligns).
Here is the hitch installed with all but the two bolts at the bottom of the well in place.
Tighten it all down and then put the bumper back on.
Jack up the car and drill the two holes from the bottom of the spare well (be sure to clean up the area of debris
and use a lot of silicon to seal the holes and bolts).
SLK Wiring
Press left and right inner fender(2) to side and unscrew bolt(3)
Unscrew bolts(9) on side in fender (on left and right 2 bolts each)
Disconnect rear bumper PTS (Parktronic) connector(X35/28) and press rubber grommet out of body together
with electrical lead
Only with a second person as helper, carefully remove rear bumper(1) sliding out of the left and right side
brackets(12) and moving carefully towards rear.
Installation is above in reverse, but ensure (with two persons) that the rear bumper is first inserted at side into
left and right brackets(12).
Roof Carriers
Malone HandiRack
Headlights
2003 Headlights
The headlight is a 2 piece. You can take it apart and reseal easily enough. Use the factory glue (oxybutyl glue)
which conforms well with heat applied and is very pliable.
Procedure :
NOTE : check to make sure the headlights did not lose any of the bottom tabs that let moisture in. There
should be one breather vent that must remain open.
If central locking failed and the boot/trunk will not open, try the following :
put the key in the lock and turn quarter turn clockwise; pulling the lever with the key in place should open it.
If locking has failed due to a minor air leak you may be able to briefly restore operation, by removing the fuse for
the pneumatic systems pump and reinstalling it. The fuse is shown here (It's the 20-amp fuse located in the rear
fuse box module. It is mounted under the storage compartment behind the right-side seat. You access the module
by removing the interior trim panel. To do that pull outward at the top left of centre and right of centre to release
two clips and then lift it upward and out) :
The hand latch is connected to the real latch mechanism by a metal connecting rod. The rod will just flip a small
catch on the real latch mechanism and cause it to release the the spring which opens the latch to the open
position. Possibly, this latch mechanism has a broken part in it which wont allow the hook to open or the small
spring loaded part inside the lock, is simply covered and stuck with road grime.
Does the central locking still work on the doors? If so, the locking pump must be good. Operate the roof (if you
have left the trunk cover locked allowing roof to operate) and stop in mid operation this will allow access to the
trunk, have a look for air leaks in the line to the trunk lock.
If mechanism is seized, smash the 3rd brake light and manually pull the mechanism. Clean and apply a good
splashing of WD40 togged it working. Replace and install a new 3rd brake light.
If you dont want to replace the 3rd brake light and all else fails, get the drill out, remove the license plate, drill the
hole, a finger opens the lock - 5 minute job. Get a rubber grommit to fill the hole, re-instal the license plate. The
license plate covers the hole.
NOTE : locking pump is located on the left side of the trunk/boot. Its a rectangular black box, with yellow and
black pipes coming out of it, surrounded by a rubber type housing (which seems to act like a gaint sponge which is possible part of the problem).
The pump for the roof is located either above or below(depending on the year of manufacture) the locking pump in the
same part of the boot, but looks very different.
Bolster wear from either lots of getting in and out or lazy entry and exit of the car, can be re-connolised but try to
buy well in the first instance, once a seat has been re-connolised its very difficult to do it again as nicely. Also
some cars have optional beading on the seats, this can tear very easily, please check condition carefully as they
can be repaired wellonly once.
Grime in the metal trim areas or the early cars can be difficult to clean correctly - please contact us for help, the
later cars had smooth finish interior panels which are very easy to maintain.
Door handles are famed for the outeroperation cables popping off or retaining clip breaking as the cable seizes
or gets tight, easy repair, (pending availability of the cables, sometimes its the inner door handle cable but
mainly its thedoor handle, just get them fixed as they pop offor get stiff.Its better than beinglocked out of your
own car.
Airbags
If airbag light come on it has come on
Keys
Replacement :
remove the
Leather Smell
Zaino does a great job in restoring the leather smell. I have used Zaino leather cleaner and conditioner with great
results. Great leather smell afterwards. In time it will lose the smell as it dries out. Keep up with the leather treatment,-at LEAST twice a year to keep some of that scent. Use Gliptone cleaner+conditioner or Swissvax products. Both leave
a nice smell and do a great job.
Leather Care
Quite common if the leather is not protected from direct sunlight. Most times, it should be possible to stretch the
leather and re-glue with a superior strength adhesive.
Note : synthetic alcantara has less of a tendency to shrink than natural leather (which shrinks with heat).
Another thing to consider is, how frequently you condition your leather. You should be conditioning the panels twice a
year (more frequently, may weaken the adhesive as the conditioner actually works its way down into the leather).
Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil
Known world wide for its ability to soften even cardboard hard leather. It is a complex blend of animal proteins,
collagens, with absolutely no oil fillers of any kind. Totally unlike all other leather products, it will not stain or discolour
leather. Simply spray or wipe onto the surface and massage into the leather with your hands. Allow for it be absorbed
into the fibres. Rejuvenator has a unique capillary action which forces proteins into the leather and dirt out.
Although its named Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil, it actually contains no oil fillers such as mineral or petroleum oil. The
formula is based on a natural old Swedish Secret and is a complex blend of proteins and collagen that actually restore
the tensile strength to the leather, not just sit on top and make it slick and greasy. It does not harm carpeting or
headliners and will also soften rubber door trim and vinyl. It also contains no Silicon and no wax.
For Best Results :
Apply with your hands, massaging the oil well into all the surfaces and natural folds of the leather, but you may
also use a soft sea sponge, or a soft paint type brush.
If possible, park the car in the sun with the windows rolled up to create a "steam room" for as long as practical,
several hours or a day. In cooler weather, or for long-term storage in a garage, cover the seats with plastic wrap,
and "warm" with a hair dryer.
Leather Shrinkage
Quite common if the leather is not protected from direct sunlight. Most times, it should be possible to stretch the
leather and re-glue with a superior strength adhesive.
Note : synthetic alcantara has less of a tendency to shrink than natural leather (which shrinks with heat).
Alcantara Cleaning
The synthetic suede used on the interior is called Alcantara. The manufacturers cleaning details are here
http://www.alcantara.com/#/en/menu/the_material/ma...
Seat Height
Seat Height (from ground)
13.4
15.75
Heated Seats
Faulty heated seat :
Make sure you have key dependent on, with steering wheel + seat activated to on, in the convenience
display menu.
Insert key to position 2
If car has panoramic roof, open fully and close fully twice.
Open fully and close all windows twice.
Move steering wheel up and down to its limits, followed by in and out to its limits
Finally take a deep breath, move the seat forward and back to the limits twice.
You have now re-synchronised the system.
Youll see a small white plastic pin on left side (I think theres similar on the right side too)
Take a small screwdriver and push gently the pin (it should move about 1/2)
Now at same time push the eject button
That way I fixed mine, while my dealer could not do anything
MB Dealer says that it is possible to replace original steering wheel with the later 2009 and newer flat-bottomed one,
but you also need the later airbag (see below) :
Audio System
Adjustment
The Bose system is fantastic but needs setting up. Obviously everyone has their own preferences but the majority of
people have found using the following settings as a baseline a great place to start.
Surround: Dolby Pro Logic ON
Use special tools (as shown in images). Tools from Amazon. They are made out of a very strong, smooth
plastic. They were very highly rated by most buyers and many shop owners claim to use them. I think I paid
under $20 for the set of 5 tools.
MY2002 (launch) up to MY2004, i.e. chassis # 089503 - for cars with the older stereo where the wood
goes all the way around the stereo.
From MY2005 onward - this wood trim stops just below the stereo.
The SL63 is similar to MY2005 onward, except the switch pack around the gearstick changed.
MY2009 onward version (but not in all cases) - not clear as to what the exact changes are.
SL Black series is again different (but this may just be because it has a AMG logo on the ashtray).
As per original SL55. Standard on SL55 up to somewhere in MY2005. Option code is H70 for other engines / later
cars.
The picture above seems a bit light, but it is much darker than the Chestnut Trim (option 733) shown below.
Chestnut Trim (Option code 733) :
Re-setting windows
Problems with windows not closing properly or dropping back down after sealing, follow these steps :
Sit in the car with engine running and all doors closed
Starting with the drivers window, take it all the way down with the switch
When its fully down, cycle the switch down, a couple of times (you will hear the relay click out)
Then take the window up with the switch (do not use one shot)
Cycle the switch at the top (meaning pull up, release, pull up, hold for a couple of seconds and release again)
Still sitting in drivers seat (using master switches) repeat for the passenger door and then each rear window in
turn
You may have to do the rear more than twice (make sure your seals are not grabbing or have come adrift)
Solution, is to use a CTEK trickle charger, with quick disconnect, plugged in every time car put into the garage. Make
sure you have to step over the charger cable each time you go to the car, or else you may drive away with the trickle
charger still connected (you can pay around $400 from Aston Martin for a CTEK with AM label) :
Cars such as Aston Martin use a three pin socket in boot/trunk, so you buy the three pin male XLR audio connector
from any radio shack place in the high street for about $5 and solder it on to the CTEK cable. Its only two pins to
solder (1 and 3, but you will need to get the polarity right - pin 1 is +ve?). Example : http://www.maplin.co.uk/
p r o f e s s i o n a l - q u a l i t y - 3 - p i n - x l r - c o n n e c t o r s - i n - l i n e - 2 1 9 9 0 3 ?
c=maplin&utm_source=endeca&utm_medium=endeca_search&utm_campaign=N60FL&utm_content=XLR
+Connectors
power source - battery, alternator, plus side, power side, hot or positive.
load device - any component that uses up voltage or has resistance to electrons flowing through a wire i.e.
motors, relays, lights, solenoids, coils, spark plugs, or ECUs.
ground return - provides a route for electrons (electricity) to flow back to the battery after use by a load device
i.e. wires, metal body panels, engine block, transmission or vehicle frame.
All are necessary and must be present in a circuit in order for it to operate.
The power source, load device and ground return are physical objects, but in addition, there are basic 3 intangible
properties of a 12 volt DC system :
Equations :
Parallel Circuits
Nearly all circuits designed for cars are parallel circuits, and fortunately the rules are basically the same as for series
circuits, with two exceptions :
Voltage will be equal everywhere on the positive side of the circuit and will not be divided between load devices.
Each additional load device lowers the total overall resistance of the circuit and increases amperage.
When the wire gage is decreased by 3 gage numbers, its cross sectional area is doubled and its resistance is cut in
half.
Wire Testing
The copper strands that make up a length of wire can sometime be the source of a voltage drop. Dont try to find with
your ohmmeter, but keep the wire plugged into the load, and voltage drop test the entire length of wire :
1. Set the voltmeter to read millivolts or on the lowest volt scale.
2. Put the voltmeter positive lead on the end of the wire closest to the battery.
3. Put the voltmeter negative lead on the other end of the wire.
4. Operate the circuit.
5. If the voltage drop is more than .100V (100mV), the wire, or connections are bad.
6. If excessive, remove the wire at both ends and clean the connections, retest.
7. If still excessive, replace the wire.
Plug the sealed beam leads into the fuse terminals in place of a new fuse.
Turn the circuit on and start looking for your short.
If normal load (in this case a bulb) is off, and the fuse is blown, installing another fuse would cause it to blow again. We
need some way to keep the circuit live while we test, and provide immediate feedback while we eliminate the short.
This is where this DIY tester comes in handy.
When you connect the headlight tester, if the short in the circuit is still present, the headlight will illuminate, telling you
that there is a short to ground on the feed side of the circuit in the wire between the fuse and the normal load (one
terminal at the fuse box supplies voltage, while the short provides ground).
This is a big diagnostic plus, since the circuit is live, and stays live as we start tracking the short, by wiggling wires and
wire harnesses. We'll know we've isolated or eliminated the short when the load starts working again. We are putting
the short to work, helping us locate the problem. The sealed beam lights because of the short. As soon as we
eliminate the short, the small bulb illuminates and the sealed beam will dim or even go out.
Connect your DMM between the engine and negative battery terminal
Safely disarm the ignition (on some distributorless ignition systems, the simplest way to prevent the engine from
starting during the ground test is to pull the fuel pump fuse)
Crank the engine for a few seconds.
If the voltage drop is excessive, repair the engine ground circuit and retest.
Next, connect the DMM between the negative battery terminal and the vehicles firewall.
Then start the engine and switch on all the major electrical accessories.
Too much voltage drop? Then fix the body ground and retest.
Because computer circuits operate on such low current, the standard ground tests may not reveal a marginal ground
on an on-board computer. Before you condemn any on-board computer, check its grounds first. Operate the computer
system and back-probe each computer ground terminal. If you measure anything greater than 0.10 V, trace that
ground circuit and locate the problem.
Sometimes, computer grounds are connected to a spot where they are easily disturbed or prone to corrosion, such as
a thermo- stat-housing bolt. Computer connector terminals also can corrode. Removing the connector and spraying
the terminals with electrical cleaner may be all it takes to eliminate the voltage drop. Experience shows that as little as
0.30 V on a computer ground terminal can cause trouble. Try pinpointing that with a test light.
Keep your eyes peeled for missing body grounds (if someone else worked on the vehicle, he may have forgotten to
reconnect body ground wires or cables). Remember that when the body ground is restricted, current tries to find
another route back to the battery. Under periods of heavy current flow, a restricted body ground may hamper or shut
off a component. For example, turn signals have been known to stop blinking when the driver steps on the brake
pedal. Testing confirmed that a restricted body ground choked off the turn signals. The ground could not handle current
from the turn signals and brake lights at the same time.
Relays
Overview of Relays
Here's a diagram of a Bosch relay. They come in many types, and are used in quite a few different vehicles.
When power is applied across the 85 and 86 terminals, current flows through a coil of small wire. This wire is about
100' long, and is usually 28 gauge wire. This builds up a magnetic field in the bar it's wrapped around, and the steel
plate snaps to it. When the power is off, the spring pulls the plate back away from the magnet bar. The "click" is the
plate slamming into the magnet as it turns on. It doesn't "click" when turned off, because the plate swings away from
the magnet without hitting anything.
Note: When the power is applied, the coil sets up a magnetic field in it's windings. When the power is removed, the
field collapses, and a reverse current of high voltage will "kick back" This is called counter EMF, and is how your
ignition coil works (if your fingers are across the coil terminals when the power is removed, you will get a shock).
Below are a couple of circuits to help understand how the relay works in real life. Relays are used to transfer high
current. A Lot of vehicles make use of the ground-to-turn-on circuit. If one if the relay coil terminals have battery power
all the time, the ground-on circuit is how it's wired. Most horn relays are wired in the ground-on method. The steering
wheel contact touches ground and turns on the horn. The horn relay is used because the 15-20 amps from the horn
would arc and quickly destroy the contacts in the steering wheel.
Relays are located throughout the entire vehicle. Relay blocks, both large and small, are located in the engine
compartment; behind the left or right kick panels, or under the dash are common locations. Relays are often grouped
together or with other components like fuses or placed by themselves. Relays are remote control electrical switches
that are controlled by another switch, such as a horn switch or a computer as in a power train control module. Relays
allow a small current flow circuit to control a higher current circuit. Several designs of relays are in use today, 3-pin, 4pin, 5-pin, and 6-pin, single switch or dual switches.
All relays operate using the same basic principle. Our example will use a commonly used 4 - pin relay. Relays have
two circuits: A control circuit (1 to 3) and a load circuit (2 to 4). The control circuit has a small control coil while the load
circuit has a switch. The coil controls the operation of the switch.
Current flowing through the control circuit coil (pins 1 and 3) creates a small magnetic field which causes the switch to
close, pins 2 and 4. The switch, which is part of the load circuit, is used to control an electrical circuit that may connect
to it. Current now flows through pins 2 and 4, when the relay is energised (below left).
When current stops flowing through the control circuit (above right), pins 1 and 3, the relay becomes de-energised.
Without the magnetic field, the switch opens and current is prevented from flowing through pins 2 and 4. The relay is
now OFF.
Normally Open relays (above) are the most common in vehicle applications. However, relay variations include three
and five pin relays :
3-PIN relay instead of two B+ input sources, has one B+ input at pin 1. Current splits inside the relay, supplying
power to both the control and load circuits.
A 5-PIN relay has a single control circuit, but two separate current paths for the switch :
When the relay is de-energised or OFF, with no current through the control coil (pins 4 and 5 have
continuity).
When the relay is energised or ON, with current flowing through the control coil (pins 3 and 5 have
continuity).
3 - PIN
4 - PIN
5 - PIN
Below are two popular standard MINI ISO relay configurations. The size of a ISO Standard MINI relay is a 1" square
cube. Both 4 and 5 pins designs are used.
5 PIN MINI RELAY
Circuit Identification
Relays are easy to test but often misunderstood. Using a 4 pin relay for our example, we must first identify the pins.
Some manufacturers place a diagram and pin ID on the outside of the relay case to show which pins are part of the
control circuit and which pins are part of the load circuit.
If the relay is not labeled, use an ohmmeter and check to see which pins are connected to each other :
You should typically find an ohm value of approximately 50 to 120 ohms between two of the pins (the control
circuit). If the coil is less that 50 ohms it could be suspect.
The remaining two pins should read OL (infinite) if it's a normally open relay, or 0 ohms (continuity) if it's a
normally closed relay. If the readings are correct, proceed to the next test.
Note: If none of the relay pins showed a coil value and all pins show OL or 0 ohms, the control coil is damaged and
should be replaced.
Practical Testing
Once the pins have been identified, energise the control circuit by supplying B+ to pin 1 and a ground to pin 3. A faint
"click" will be heard; although this "click" means the switch has moved (closed), it does not mean the relay is good.
The load circuit switch contacts could still be faulty (high resistance), and further testing is required. A common mistake
technicians make is they hear a "click" and assume the relay is good. Take the extra step and verify operation.
Operational Check With Test Light
Now start the second part of the test :
Energise the relay (control side) by supplying B+ to pin 1 and a ground to pin 3 (a click should be heard).
With the relay still energised, supply B+ pin 2 of the load circuit (the test light will be on).
De-Energise (remove B+) the control circuit at pin 1 (the test light at pin 4 should go off).
A test light is preferred because a test light will draw current through the switch.
2. Ground-side voltage drop, a commonly overlooked cause of electrical trouble, can cause most of these symptoms.
Any circuit or component is only as good as its ground.
3. The more sophisticated electrical systems become, the more important their grounds are. The number of electrical
components has increased exponentially and most do not have separate ground wires. Instead, these devices are
grounded to the engine or body. Rust, grease, vibration and/or careless repairs often restrict the circuit from the
engine/body back to the battery.
4. Many components such as engine sensors share a common ground. Therefore, a bad ground complicates
diagnosis because it affects several components at once.
5. Some shop manuals and diagnostic charts or fault trees recommend checking grounds last. In reality, it is much
quicker to check ground circuits before you climb that fault tree.
6. Its quicker and smarter to routinely check a circuits voltage drop than it is to memorise long lists of symptoms. If
experience has taught us nothing else, its that chasing symptoms is no substitute for routine and thorough volt- age
drop testing.
The presence of a bad connection (bulb) adds resistance, lowering the available voltage and amperage necessary for
the intended load devices (headlight or taillight) to operate. Replacing a headlight, taillight, or battery will not solve this
problem. The only way to repair this is to find the bad connection.
The trick is to find the bad connection without unravelling the wiring harness or removing parts. This is the done by
"Voltage Drop Testing".
Voltage Drops-Good or Bad?
Voltage drop tests are usually performed to test loads and locate circuit problems. As a result, we may have a
tendency to think of voltage drops as bad things. But voltage drops can be good or bad; it all depends on where they
occur in the circuit, and whether they operate loads, or simply waste energy.
Good voltage drops are essential. Loads wont work without them. Available voltage must be dropped across
the load, or it cannot work.
Bad voltage drops allow available voltage to be dropped at a high resistance elsewhere in the circuit; this
steals electrical energy from the load. A bad voltage drop in a circuit converts electrical energy into heat.
Unwanted resistance in the circuit reduces the amount of electrical energy delivered to the load.
Causes of unwanted resistance include: loose connections; corroded connections; broken wire strands; pitted relay
contacts; and other physical damage that resists current.
In a good circuit :
Around 12 volts should always present anywhere between power source and the load.
Around 0 volts should only show anywhere between the load and the ground return.
Poor electrical connections are the most common cause of electrical problems. "Voltage Drop Testing" is a simple way
to test for bad connections, switches, components, cables, wires, terminals, or relays, It measures resistance within a
circuit using a voltmeter (not an ohmmeter, as it can only tell you continuity, and not quality of connection). The major
advantage is that nothing needs be disconnected in order to perform the test. Remember, the circuit needs to be
tested dynamically, with current running through the circuit being tested.
If a minimal drop in voltage of 0.1 volts at the connector, this indicates there is no excessive resistance to current flow,
and thus the connector is good.
However, if the voltage measured across the switch is 0.4 volts, there is a problem with the switch, and it is causing
the light bulb to dim.
Simply cleaning the switch terminals and/or replacing the switch, will lower its resistance and increase the voltage
going to the bulb, thereby making it brighter. This method of moving the voltmeter test leads along them to locate the
point of high resistance will work on any circuit. The entire length of both positive and negative sides of the circuit can
be checked without disconnecting any wires or connectors.
Basics of Voltage Drop Testing
We can test available voltage with the load turned off, but available voltage will not tell us if the load will work in the
circuit, so we need to turn it on and then test it, as we can only measure voltage drops when there is current.
Step 1 Test at the Load
Ideally, the voltage drop across the load should be the same as (or close to) the voltage available at the load.
It isnt always practical to test right at the load, as you may not always have direct access to the load. For example,
you cannot connect your meter leads across the terminals of an in-tank fuel pump.
Step 2 Test the Circuit
To test the circuit for voltage drops, connect your meter leads to two points in the circuit that have the same polarity.
For example :
Connect one meter lead to a battery post and the other lead to the battery cable end (see illustration below).
Connect your meter lead between the positive battery post and the hot side of a fuel injector. Then turn the
circuit on and read the voltage.
Any voltage displayed on the meter indicates a voltage drop, and tells us exactly how much of the available voltage
never reaches the load. Assuming the meter leads are good, lower readings are better.
0.60 volt
0.0 volts
0.20 volt
0.20 volt
0.20 volt
0.30
0.5 volt (all accessories turned on)
0.20 volt
Starting Problems
Make sure your battery is in excellent shape without any corrosion on the terminals.
Rule out an ignition switch problem by direct shorting of solenoid, to get the starter to crank, thus bypassing the
key switch.Now you have narrowed down the problem to the solenoid or the key switch or wires in between or
the battery and its wires.
If the battery is weak, and you have corrosion on wires, weak contacts and high resistance in the key switch,
you get the primary coil juice to the solenoid to click, but not enough to make a complete circuit for the
secondary big current that shorts the solenoid and makes the whole this work by completing the circuit through
the starter.
If the solenoid is bad or overheated, the body of the solenoid expands and can change the bore diameter such
that the centre core that completes the solenoid circuit does not move freely, i.e. it clicks but no complete circuit.
Use a good remote battery, and wire one lead to the solenoid terminal that goes to the key switch and attempt to
trigger the solenoid directly with the loose wire on the other side of the battery.
If this works, you are not getting enough juice to the solenoid, which means your solenoid works, but not your
key switch or battery.
If you are hearing a "big click" coming from the engine compartment that is most likely your solenoid. The
solenoid is engaging but the starter is not turning. (The solenoid acts a both as both a relay to switch your
battery voltage to your starter which takes very high current, and as a mechanical plunger to engage the starter
gear to the flywheel of the engine.) There is nothing in series electrically, temp switch etc., between the solenoid
and the starter.
If the solenoid is making the "big click" then either, the starter is not receiving any or not enough battery voltage
to turn, or the starter has an intermittent open circuit.
You should be able to regularly leave your car sitting for longer than 3 weeks, without having the battery go flat,
but for added security, use a small automatic battery charger and mounting it inside the car by the battery and
plug it in when garaged to provide a maintenance charge on the battery. Investigate the condition of your
battery/charging system/electrical, if the battery drains at rest.
Italian cars with front batteries and rear engines, tend to suffer a lot of starter problems (that big cable that is
connected to your (+) pos. battery terminal goes directly to your solenoid, and the longer the cable, the more
voltage loss).
If your are jump-starting from another car, connect the (-) neg. cable going to the good battery directly to the
engine block, or if you have charged your battery, connect a jumper cable from the engine block directly to the
(-) neg. battery terminal.
If it starts, the ground strap going to the engine, is either damaged, corroded or missing (this is an non-insulated
flat mesh attached somewhere on the engine block to the chassis). Remove it, clean it up or replace it,
reinstalling, making sure all contacts are absolutely clean.
If it doesn't start, check that the solenoid is switching voltage to the starter (it must be done with a fully charged
battery).
The solenoid is the short cylinder attached to the back of the starter, with two bolts on the back and wires
attached (top one has the large diameter battery cable and a wire to the alternator, the other bolt has a cable or
flat mesh which goes inside the starter).
Duplicate what should be occurring in the solenoid, by using a couple of screwdrivers, to short these two bolts
together (careful not to touch any other metal on the car) and causing a direct ground to the battery. The starter
motor will spin, but will not turn the engine since the solenoid has not engaged the starter motor to the flywheel
(you will probably create lots of sparks due to the high current but it is still a safe 12VDC).
If starter spins, your solenoid is not transferring enough voltage to the stater (bad or corroded contacts inside or
outside the solenoid).
If starter doesn't spin, you have a bad starter.
Batteries (2)
Starter Battery (front) - replacement only available from MB dealer (around $200)
Systems/Accessory/Consumers Battery (rear) - replacement alternatives other than MB dealer
Dimensions :
Length - ? mm
Height - ? mm
Width - ? mm
NOTE 2 :
SL55 AMG dual battery systems are separate (according to the wiring diagrams). You require to
charge both separately (I checked that the starter voltage does not rise while charging the
system/consumers battery).
NOTE 3 :
when jump-starting only use front battery (never use rear one).
There are two batteries in the SL55 (front - starter battery only; rear - system/consumers battery used for everything
else).
The starter battery is dedicated to starting the car, so depletes quite slowly and seldom requires recharging. However,
the systems/accessory/consumers battery requires more frequent charging, as it continues to draw down while
standing, depleting rather quickly (about 0.14 volts per day).
It appears that Mercedes-Benz split and separated the batteries, as so many people store their cars for long periods,
which would have rapidly depleted the starting battery (lots of electronics in the car). These two batteries are
connected through a battery control module, which regulates the charging and discharging of the two batteries, as well
as handling load management. The battery control module measures the load capacity of the main battery, actual
current flow to loads, and can take active measures to stabilise the electrical system. These measures include
increasing idle speed, connecting the auxiliary battery to the system via a relay. or shutting off nonessential consumers
through the CAN Bus. This means that, under certain electrical conditions, some electrical features may not work,
while at other times they function normally".
If the car is used daily, then there are no no problems, but if car left sitting for a few days or more, the system/
consumers battery will be depleted with everything off-line, until it is driven a few miles, to recharge system. Note,
main starter battery (up front) holds its charge well (as its only for engine starting, and quickly replaces any lost
charge, as soon as its running).
Starter Battery
System/Consumers Battery
Headlight Bulbs
3mins
1min
1min
1min
1min
Parts Needed:
1) Bulb size 6418 -5 bulbs. 1-Glove box, 2-Each side foot rest, 2- Each Door.
2) Bulb size 2825(AKA wedge bulb) - 2 For the map light.
Tools needed:
1) Panel removal tool
2) Small Flat head screwdriver
The Map light has to be completely removed in order to replace the two bulbs inside, size T10.
Start by unclipping the two tabs that are placed towards the rear of the vehicle. You can start by using the panel
removal tool to help pry the map light open a bit then slide the small flat head screw driver in to unclip the tabs.
Then unclip the two side tabs, one on each side of the map light.
End result.
Fuse IDs
The alarm siren (mounted beneath the driver's side fender) can go off intermittently. This is due to its own 2 batteries
going bad. When they go bad, they leak battery acid all over the circuit board, corroding it, and leaving you with alarm
issues.
Fix 2 :
Alternator
Steering
Needs to be completed.................
S-Class
Four level sensors, one at each wheel measure the ride level of the vehicle
Three accelerometers measure the vertical body acceleration
One acceleration sensor measures the longitudinal
One sensor the transverse body acceleration.
At each hydraulic cylinder (4 of), a pressure sensor monitors the hydraulic pressure.
As the ABC controller receives and processes data, it operates four hydraulic servos, each mounted in series on a
spring strut, beside each wheel. Almost instantaneously, the servo regulated suspension generates counter forces to
body lean, dive and squat during various driving maneuvers.
A suspension strut, consisting of a steel coil spring and a shock absorber are connected in parallel, as well as a
hydraulically controlled adjusting cylinder, are located between the vehicle body and wheel. These components adjust
the cylinder in the direction of the suspension strut, and change the suspension length. This creates a force which acts
on the suspension and dampening of the vehicle in the frequency range up to five hertz.
The system also incorporates height adjustable suspension, which in this case lowers the vehicle up to 11 mm
(0.43in) between the speeds of 60160km/h (3799mph) for better aerodynamics, fuel consumption, and handling.
The ABC system also raises or lowers the vehicle in response to changing load (i.e. the loading or unloading of
passengers or cargo).
Each vehicle equipped with ABC has an ABC Sport button that allows the driver to adjust the suspension range for
different driving style preferences. This feature allows the driver to adjust the suspension to maintain a more level ride
in more demanding driving conditions.
ABC system is a fully active hydraulic system driven by a high pressure pump that also controls power steering.
These systems are prone to leaks and seeps but are overall very reliable with leaks at the pump being
uncommon.
The vehicle level is controlled using inputs from four level sensors and accelerometers.
By routing high pressure fluid, delivered through valve blocks, the system also has nitrogen accumulators for
dampening.
The valve blocks have valves with metal seats and these can be prone to leaking if the fluid has fine particles of
dirt in it. It may be necessary to flush the system in the event that valves are suspected of leaking or the ride
height changes after shutdown.
This uses several gallons of Pentosin CHF 11S hydraulic fluid.
NOTE : These systemsare complex and diagnosis and testing should be conducted before commencing any
repairs.
The ABC struts have quick release connectors, given where they are located corrosion often prevents removal
requiring the corresponding hard lines to be replaced. Never work on these systems when they are pressurised. In
many cases they are self bleeding but several test modes are available for these systems that can be used for
diagnostic purposes as well as insuring bleeding is complete.
The ABC pump keeps the pressure in the struts (should be at about 200 bar or 2900 psi) and valve stops (front and
back) need to make sure that the pressure is maintained. If the valve stops start to leak then the ABC pump has to
work harder to keep the pressure. Any one living in the cold climate would know that your HVAC system has to work
harder when a window or door is ajar. It is kind of similar to that. Valves leak pressure and then ABC pump has to work
harder to keep the pressure up and then it is an endless cycle which eventually takes the toll on the ABC pump. ABC
pump giving out means that your valves are probably faulty too.
Your valves get faulty because the hydraulic fluid eventually gets contaminated. There is a filter, but no filter is perfect
and since we are dealing with high pressure systems, the valves eventually start to leak and then it only stops when
ABC pump gives out.
NOTE : I will not here discuss any more of ABC issues, as its better to remove and convert to the European
SL350 or Black Series SL65 coil-over with sway bars suspension.
Some say that by leaving it set in the top height position, this locks the valves in position, keeps the pressure
up, and also reduces wear and tear on the valves
Others advise that the car should not be stored for over 24 hours in the 2 light, highest height position setting,
as this can promote strain on the system.
However, the consensus of opinion is that there is no problem raising and lowering as required (in fact the ABC
system continually automatically adjusts the ride height at varying road speeds), as this is not putting extra wear
on the system, and is in fact good for the ABC system.
Body roll during cornering is reduced by 68% with light off, while with light on in ABC Sport mode, body roll is
reduced by 75%.
In either mode, braking dive and acceleration "squat" is all but eliminated.
Body stabilising time after a rapid swerve is cut by 30%.
Summation :
NOTE : Get new later-style valves, as Mercedes has new and improved valves from around 2007.
The root cause for almost any ABC problem is dirty fluid. Once its worn/dirty it acts like liquid sandpaper inside
the ABC system, and starts to kill all those hundreds of elastic gaskets/seal-rings.
the ABC fluid (Pentosin) should be flushed every 3 years/35,000 km, along with a new 3 micron filter change
You can easily check your ABC oil quality using the dipstick from the reservoir (sits next to the fill cover which
contains the white filter). Take a white lint free towel and pat the oil from the dipstick onto it. Clean oil is green,
light brown in fair condition. IT SHOULD BE REPLACED BEFORE IT BECOMES DARK BROWN OR BLACK.
The system uses about 15-16 litres of Pentosinl (A00198924003-10, or Pentison CHF 11S). To replace you will
need about 10-12 litres.
Depending on load and driving style, the ABC system should last for 300,000 miles or longer.
The struts, don't go bad that often.
If the tandem pump dies, it lets out small pieces of rubber from the seals which clog up the valve blocks.
These valve block controls are electric BUT any dirt stops them in there tracks.
The problem with the ABC filter is, that it is on the return line, so when the pump fails, the fluid doesn't get
filtered until it actually returns, and the damage to the valve blocks is already done.
Replace your accumulators between 80,000-100,000 miles or about eight years (when the accumulators
start to lose charge and/or the diaphragm starts to breakdown, the hydrostatic shock in the system, is more than
enough to start blowing hoses).
NOTE : the ABC electronics can be removed from the car system by coding (if deleting for coil-overs)
The remainder of this document goes into more detail on how each component of the system works, how to recognise
when they fail, and what courses of action to fix them. There is also advice on how to reduce the ownership costs
related to the ABC system, how to maintain it, and other valuable information.
In most cases, I trip to a MB dealer or Independent (Indy) workshop with the STAR / SDS system will be necessary. Be
prepared to pay $100-150 for a "diagnostic fee", since it is necessary to get the error codes to know what action to
take.
The system consists of the following components: The exact location will vary on whether you have an CL or an SL
series. But the design is the same as well as the part numbers.
Going on a brief tour of the diagramthe ABC fluid starts its travel at the fluid reservoir(2). From the reservoir it is
drawn into the pump(1). The pump pushes the fluid to an assembly(52) containing a pulsation dampener(52a) that
reduces vibration, a check valve (52b) that regulates the pressure at 190 bars, and a pressure sensor (B4/5) that
reports the pressure to the control module. From there the fluid travels to the front and rear valve blocks(Y36/1 and
Y36/2) which manage the amount of fluid in the struts(40,41). Accumulators(4,14) are attached to each valve block to
store fluid and pressure for filling the strut. The control module commands the valves to open or close which allows
fluid to enter or leave the struts. When the fluid leaves the struts, it travels through a temperature sensor(B40/1), and
then through the oil cooler(9) and back to the reservoir(2). An accumulator (53) helps even out the spikes in the return
side pressure caused by the struts letting out fluid.
There is also the electronics side of the design.
The control module monitors all the sensors in the system and decides how much fluid should be in each strut. It
reevaluates 10 times per second.
All these sensors and valve solenoids are wired to the ABC control module. Failure of any of these sensors will disable
the ABC system, causing an "ABC Drive Carefully" or "ABC Visit Workshop" message on the dash. The message will
be in white or red depending on the severity. The error condition will also get logged for later viewing by diagnostic
tools. Electronic issues with the ABC system are rather rare. The majority of issues are hydraulic related.
Driving the car while the ABC warning message is on the dash can be very dangerous, especially at highway speed.
Hence the "Drive Carefully" message. The system is in limp mode allowing you to get the car do the workshop. It is not
to be ignored.
Should the ride height of any of the 4 corners of the car fall to an unacceptable level, the ABC system will display a
"Too Low" warning. You should pull over immediately or risk damage from the tires coming into contact with the wheel
wells, not to mention a possible accident that might occur from that happening. It is better to deal with the
inconvenience of having the car towed rather than incur expensive repairs to the car.
Mercedes dealerships and other workshops that work frequently on Mercedes vehicles will have the STAR Diagnostic
System, referred to as SDS or STAR. It is software that runs on a laptop along with various interface cables. It was
developed by Mercedes for their vehicles. It connects to the various control units on the car (like the ABC system), and
can retrieve error codes, examine the current values of sensors, execute diagnostic routines, calibrate sensors, view
the error history logs, etc.
The major ABC componentstheir purpose, how they fail, and what to do.
Pump
The power steering and ABC pump are integrated into one unit, referred to as a Tandem Pump. Although the two
pumps share the same pulley and shaft, they are separate components otherwise. It is possible for the ABC pump to
fail but the power steering pump is fine (and vice versa). But if one fails, both have to be replaced since they are one
unit.
The pump is lubricated by the fluid, so it is important it never run dry. If you are having fluid leaks be sure to keep a
close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. Should the fluid run dry the pump will be destroyed, and it will shed debris
with sharp edges into the ABC system. This will generate problems with downstream components for years to come.
There seems to be some consensus that the average life of a pump is around 60-80K. Like any component, some will
fail sooner and some may last much longer. Pumps cost around $2,500 to replace.
Integrated into the pump is a suction restrictor(Y86/1) or throttle valve. It is wired to the control module and open and
closes based on the voltage supplied to it. The opening and closing of this valve controls the rate of flow from the
reservoir into the pump.
The pump may fail one of two ways.
1
2
The pump failing completely should be pretty obvious to diagnose. The ABC "visit workshop" or "drive carefully"
message will appear shortly after the car is started, and the message will stay on. The car will not raise on command
either. SDS error codes will indicate inadequate or no pressure.
It is important to remember that when the ABC warning message stays on the dash, the ABC system is disabled,
effectively in "limp mode". The valves to the struts are locked closed, allowing you to drive to the workshop. The quality
of the ride is often described as a "tuna boat" ride, depending on what height the struts were locked at. The switch to
raise or lower the ride height will also be disabled.
If the pump is weak, you should also get ABC "Drive Carefully" and "Visit Workshop" messages, but they will be
intermittent in nature. If the pressure drops too low at any point, the ABC system disables itself and displays the
message on the dash. It stays disabled until the car is shutoff and restarted. In many cases you can restart the car and
the system will pressurize successfully, and the error message will clear. The car works normally again for a while.
There will also be pressure related error codes logged as well.
Some owners report the ABC system operates fine when the car is cold, but the error messages start appearing after
the car has warmed up. The reverse also seems to be reported. Temperature does seem to be a factor.
It is also suggested the suction valve may be the culprit, and not the pump itself. But unfortunately the valve is not sold
separately, it comes with the pump. Check to make sure +5 volts or more is present at the suction valve if the pump is
not producing pressure in order to rule out wiring or control module issues.
Some owners report a grinding or growling sound the pump goes bad.
It should also be noted that low pressure codes do not necessarily mean the pump. Accumulators can fail leading to
intermittent low pressures (when hitting bumps). The suction restrictor valve could be malfunctioning. The pressure
check valve could be malfunctioning. The pressure sensor itself could be malfunctioning.
There is a SDS diagnostic test to measure the health of the accumulators (pressure reservoirs). Before replacing a
pump, always run this test to rule out the accumulators being the cause of intermittent pressure problems.
The best way to know for sure if the pump is bad is to monitor the pressure while doing a rodeo. The rodeo will stress
the system, and even a good pump will see about a 1/3 pressure drop at times. So if the car can get through the rodeo
successfully, then the pump is probably fine. If there are still pressure related codes being generated after passing a
rodeo, I would recommend investigating some of the other possibilities mentioned earlier.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/r230-sl-class/895217d1397771677-abc-pump-information-change-partnumber-r-i-high-pressure-pump..pdf
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/r230-sl-class/888065d1397470652-abc-pump-information-change-partnumber-initial-operation-new-tandem-pump-ar32.50
Pulsation Dampener / Pressure Check Valve / Pressure Sensor Assembly
These three components are grouped together into the same assembly. They are the first set of components
immediately after the pump.
There is a pulsation dampener(52a) attached to the assembly, part number 2203270215. It is a black sphere. It is
similar in design to the other three accumulators in the system (nitrogen gas behind a rubber membrane), but much
smaller. Since the fluid flow from the pump is "choppy" given the nature of its design, something is needed to smooth
out these waves or vibrations in the fluid. This is the job of the dampener. Air behind the rubber membrane acts as a
cushion and evens out the pressure, much like a gas shock absorber removes road vibration.
There is also a check valve (52b) integrated into the assembly. It is a passive device, not actively controlled by the
control module. It will open when the pressure exceeds its designed limit (~190 bars), allowing any excess pressure to
be bled off. Its job is to regulate the system pressure.
Lastly, there is a pressure sensor (B4/5) attached to the assembly, and it is wired to the control module. A resistor
inside the sensor alters the voltage passing through the sensor based on the amount of pressure applied to it. At zero
pressure the voltage is around 0.6 volts. At full pressure it is at 5 volts. The control module monitors this voltage, and
infers the system pressure from it.
There is a inverse relationship between the voltage from the pressure sensor and the voltage supplied to the pump
suction valve. Then the voltage from the pressure sensor is low (the system needs more pressure), the voltage to the
suction valve will be high (open up the valve and give me more), and vice versa.
So what can go wrong with these components?
1) The pulsation dampener could fail. The rubber membrane inside of it eventually breaks down, and the dampening
ability is lost. You will hear a humming sound caused by the fluid vibration. The ABC system will function normally
though, although the vibrations will stress the system if not addressed. I don't believe the control module will notice
this, so no error codes or warning messages will appear. Just a loud annoying hum.
2) The check valve could be opening at too high a pressure. The control module should detect the overpressure and
shut the ABC system down and display an ABC error message on the dash. It should also log the error.
3) The check valve opens at too low a pressure. I don't think it is a likely scenario but it is theoretically possible. In this
scenario the control module will sense the need for more pressure and tell the suction valve on the pump to open up,
and meanwhile the check valve will constantly route all that extra fluid back to the reservoir in an endless loop. If the
pressure that this is occurring at is below the acceptable pressure to operate the ABC system, the control module will
shutdown the ABC system and display a warning on the dash. If this endless loop is occurring at a pressure above the
minimum but below the ideal, then the system will operate normally but the pump will be working extra hard. I'm
guessing the control module would not notice this situation. It won't be able to tell the difference between a weak pump
and a check valve letting off pressure too soon. But a constant 5V at the suction valve would indicate the pump is
working full throttle all the time.
4) The pressure sensor is not working correctly. It could fail. There could be a loose connection between the sensor
and the control module. It could be sluggish in responding to pressure changes. Or it could just be wrong about the
pressure it is sensing. The control module should be able to detect a loose connection or a completely failed sensor
and log an error code to that effect. That leaves the sensor reporting the wrong pressure. If the sensor is reporting
higher then normal, then the control module will be seeing what it thinks are overpressure situations, and will shut
down the ABC system and give a dash warning and log error codes. If the sensor is reporting lower pressure than
actual, then either 1) in extreme cases the control module will think the system is below normal operating pressure and
will shutdown the ABC system along with dash warnings and error codes. It could mimic a pump failure. 2) if a minor
case, the normal drops in pressure will be more exaggerated from the control module's perspective, leading to
intermittent "drive carefully" messages and occasional ABC system shutdowns.
5) Occasionally the o-ring that provides the seal for the pressure sensor will fail, causing a fluid leak. There is a repair
kit available (part number A2203201158) for approximately $80. Don't let the workshop convince you that you need to
replace the entire assembly, a $1,250 part. If the kit is not available, the shop should be able to improvise something
with a similar sized sealing washer (like those used for oil drain plugs).
Accumulators
The accumulators (#4,#14,#53 on the hydraulic diagram above), are often referred to as a "air cell" or "nitrogen ball".
They are black spheres that contain nitrogen gas (air) trapped behind a rubber membrane. Hydraulic fluid is allowed
to travel in and out of the sphere based on the pressure differential between the rest of the system and the air on the
other side of the membrane. The compressed air in the accumulator pushes back against the fluid and can either
absorb pressure or supply pressure.
There are three accumulators placed strategically in the system. The two larger ones(4 and 14), part number 220 327
01 15, are attached to each of the two valve blocks and they provide the pressure necessary to add fluid to the struts
when the valves open. The pump's job is just to keep these two accumulators topped off. These two are the most
critical ones that will cause problems when they fail. The third accumulator(#53), part number 220 327 04 15, is often
referred to as the "center" or "return" side accumulator. It is smaller than the other two and it's job is to smooth out the
spikes in pressure that result when fluid is being let out of the struts. These accumulators are often overlooked since
many techs do not understand their true function in the system. They are much more than just fluid repositories.
The pulsation dampener(52a), part number 220 327 02 15, is arguably an accumulator as well. The design is the
same. Its size and position in the system has it serving a different purpose though. It is to even out the vibrations in the
fluid from the pump. When it fails you get this classic humming sound.
These accumulators wear out. Like any sort of wear part, how fast depends on a lot of factors. 60K-80K miles seems
the norm from what I read. Your mileage may vary based on the age of the car, driving conditions, how clean the ABC
fluid has been maintained, and so forth.
So, what can we take away from all this?
1) The dampener and return accumulator are important in that they smooth out the system pressure. Keeping those
healthy will reduce stress on the system.
2) If the two larger accumulators(4 and 14, P/N 220 327 01 15) that provide pressure to fill the struts were to weaken
or fail, then there will be momentary drops in system pressure. It will be most noticeable when the car hits a bump or
drop in the road, which requires fluid to be added quickly to the struts to compensate. The control module is monitoring
system pressure and when it sees the pressure drop, it puts the "Drive Carefully" warning on the dash. When the
pump catches up moments later the message goes away.
Shop techs who hookup the SDS tool and see "low pressure" codes in the logs often conclude that the pump needs
replacement, when in reality one of the main accumulators have failed.
So how do you tell if your accumulators are in good shape?
There is a SDS diagnostic test for them. It charges up the accumulators and then measures how long to takes to
discharge. The workshop tech may not be aware of this test, or think to run it because he doesn't understand their
function in the system. Always run this test to rule out accumulator problems before replacing a pump.
Observing the dip stick levels. If an accumulator has failed, the accumulator will fill with hydraulic fluid and the air will
eventually work its way out. The fluid level in the reservoir will then drop. Now if you attempt to top off the ABC fluid,
the reservoir will start to overflow each time you shut the car off. The reason being the blown accumulator is causing
the ABC system to use more fluid to operate than normal. So the takeaway is that a sudden drop in fluid level (with no
leaks anywhere) may indicate an accumulator has recently blown. And if you can successfully manage your ABC fluid
levels at the correct marks on the dipstick, you accumulators are probably fine.
Visual inspection. The front accumulator is easily accessible and removable. The rear one on the R230 is rather
difficult as it is in the rear wheel well and the assembly holding the valve block and accumulator is rather difficult to pull
out. I believe the rear accumulator on the W215 model is more easily accessible. If you are pulling the valve blocks for
any reason, it is a good idea to inspect the associated accumulators. If they are good, the rubber membrane should be
near the entrance to the sphere. If they are bad or "blown", you can reach a considerable distance into it. Be careful
and don't use anything pointed that could damage the rubber membrane. Of course pulling any part in the system
does introduce risk of contaminants getting into the system. The risk/reward decision is up to you. And given how
relatively inexpensive the accumulators are (~ $150-200) relative to the labor involved, you should consider just
replacing them anyway as a maintenance investment if you have the opportunity.
There is a test being advocated on the internet that involves pushing down on the bumpers and making sure there is
minimal movement. But it is bogus. Even when working correctly the front will be stiff and the rear will have a lot of
movement to it. The reason why the test is bogus is that that when the car is shut off or the transmission is in park, the
shutoff valves are engaged, preventing any fluid from entering or leaving the struts. The struts are isolated from the
rest of the system, including the accumulators. I've seen more than one owner mistakenly convinced they have a bad
rear accumulator because of this bad advice.
To recap, there are two common symptoms that point to your accumulators failing. The brief "ABC Drive Carefully"
messages on the dash, and the reservoir overflowing a few minutes after the car is shut off.
Here are some DIY resources :
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1742594-r230-abc-rear-valve-block-accumulator.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1996449-abc-change-front-rear-pressure-reservoirs.html
Valve Blocks
The valve blocks job control the amount of fluid in each of the 4 struts. There are two valve blocks, one for the front
struts and one for the rear struts.
The main control valve (y1 in schematic, lower valve in picture) is a 3-position valve. In the outer position it allows fluid
to enter the strut, in its center position it closes off the strut, and in the inner position it allows fluid to leave the strut.
When the ABC system is active, this valve is doing all the work.
The other valve (y2 in schematic, upper valve in picture) is the shut-off valve that sits between the main control valve
and the strut. It's purpose is to lock the struts at their current fluid levels when the ABC system is not in operation.
When the car is not running or the transmission is not in gear, this valve is closed. When the car is put into drive or
reverse, the valve will open and allow the fluid levels to be managed by the main control valve. If the control module
senses a malfunction and disables itself, it will also close this shut-off valve for safety reasons.
So each valve block has 4 valves in it in total. These valves open and close based on voltage being supplied to them
by the ABC control unit.
These valve blocks rarely fail outright. What happens is that contaminants in the hydraulic fluid builds on the seat of
the valves, or the o-rings in the valve deteriorate. Either way, the valve no longer makes a good seal. As a result, fluid
slowly escapes past the shut-off valve (y2) and the main control valve(y1) and returns back to the reservoir. This
causes the strut to lower and the corner of the car to sag while parked.
It is important to remember that the car sagging after a couple of weeks is completely normal, according to
Mercedes. The tolerances in the design of the valve block will allow some leakage to occur over time. The height
should return to normal when using the ride height button.
It is possible (although rare) the car sagging is a fluid leak, such as the line between the valve and the strut, or a leak
in the strut itself. If the leak is severe enough to cause noticeable sagging while parked, there should be obvious signs
of the leak such as puddles on the garage floor.
When the car is running, the control module will compensate for any leaks in the valves. It is constantly monitoring
levels and adjusting as necessary. The sagging would only occur when the car is parked and shut off.
If you are having issues with a corner of the car not being a the correct level when running, or exhibiting other odd
activity, then you probably have a sensor issue or calibration issue.
Sometimes a "C1531"suspension strut moves although locking valve is closed" error code will get logged..most likely
while is stop and go traffic or idling at stop lights. It generally indicates the valves are sticking or jamming from being
held still too long. 2007+ model years have a software update to periodically move the valve a little to reduce this. So
you probably shouldn't get too concerned about these errors in your logs unless it is creating problems. Using the ride
height button may help in this situation to force the valve to move.
Unless the sagging problem while parked is severe, it is not an urgent problem that you have to rush to the repair shop
for. You can monitor the situation over time and decide when it has reached the point you want to fix it. In the
meantime be careful not to let the corner sink all the way down while parked, as the wheel well may come into contact
with the tires. Be sure to park with the wheels oriented straight ahead to avoid wheel well damage, and to start the car
periodically to pump up the strut.
You should also be sure to keep an eye on the reservoir fluid levels. If too much fluid leaves the struts, it may overflow
the reservoir. Then when you start the car and the struts are pumped back up, the system may be extremely low on
fluid, which may cause pressure problems and/or damage the pump. It would be wise to carry a spare quart of ABC
fluid in trunk for this situation.
If and when you have to fix the valve blocks, you options are to:
1) Filter the fluid (requires two filters) and perform a rodeo (a test that exercises the system) . Cost would be around
$200-300. If the cause is debris rather than an o-ring, then it may dislodge some debris from the valves, but the results
will be marginal and probably temporary. Sort of like trying to clean a fry pan by just running water over it. If the ABC
fluid is older that 40K miles, many on the forum would suggest replacing the fluid as well (about $250+labor).
2) Overhaul the valve assembly. This is not an approved MB procedure. Many members have reported success in
pulling the valves and cleaning them. Replacing the o-rings is also a good idea, but it may take some research to find
suitable replacements since there are no MB part numbers for them. There are also DIY write-ups and a youtube video
as well. Your local Indy shop may be willing to do this for you, with no guarantees of course. Parts cost would be
minimal and labor cost around $1,000.
3) Replace the valve block assembly. This will run you around $2,000. If saving money isn't a concern then this is the
best option to fix the problem.
Anyway, valve blocks leaking is a very common problem and is also the easiest component to diagnose. If the car
sags when parked, and there are no signs of fluid leakage, then you have a leaky valve block. There aren't any other
explanations.
I've read numerous reports where repair shop told owners they need new pumps or struts to fix this issue. If you are
told this go to another repair shop since the tech clearly doesn't understand the design of the ABC system and is
grasping at straws(at your expense).
Here are some DIY resources :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqkfz2LRoPQ
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1635269-abc-valve-cleaning-diy.html
Reservoir
It is a common to mistake the dipstick marks as "minimum" and "maximum" levels, especially since the marks
are labeled in German. So owners (and sometimes workshop techs) fill the fluid to the top mark by mistake
while the car is running, or they top off the fluid too soon after shutting the engine off (remember it it takes a
few minutes for the system to fully depressurize and the fluid to return). The end result will be the fluid
overflowing the reservoir. It won't hurt anything, but it will make a mess of the engine compartment.
1
An accumulator membrane has blown completely, releasing its nitrogen gas into the system. Then the system
depressurizes and the gas expands, pushing fluid into the reservoir and overflowing it.
The accumulator membrane is still intact, but much of the gas opposing the fluid has permeated the
membrane over time. As a result, it takes more volume of fluid in the chamber to reach the same pressure as
before. When the car is shut down and the system depressurizes, the accumulator dumps its fluid and the
volume exceeds what the reservoir was designed for.
So the take away is that the reservoir overflowing fluid out the dip stick cap is a pretty clear sign of one or more bad
accumulators. If you also find you need to keep your fluid levels somewhat below normal to keep the reservoir from
overflowing, it indicates your accumulators are worn out and will likely go soon.
Now if the level of fluid gets too low in the reservoir, the pump will start ingesting small quantities of air along with fluid,
leading to a loss of pressure and ABC warnings on the dash. The pump is lubricated by the fluid, so this will put
increased wear on the pump if not corrected. If you let the pump run dry, it will be destroyed in quick order.
So another takeaway is your first action on a ABC warning should be to verify you have adequate fluid levels to protect
the pump. Pull over immediately (seconds count) and check to make sure the dash message is not the result of losing
fluid. If the pump runs dry, it will be destroyed in a manner of minutes! Quick action can save you a $2,500-3,000
repair bill.
Here are some DIY resources :
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1899049-abc-fluid-filter-change-diy.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/r230-sl-class/888001d1397460364-abc-pump-information-change-partnumber-230-abc-bleed.pdf
Hoses
There is a considerable amount of hoses and piping traversing the vehicle. Each connection point presents an
opportunity for a leak to occur. Keep in mind the plastic panels under the car can mask many fluid leaks. A typical hose
leak repair will cost you $500 - $1000.
The exception is the high pressure expansion hose that runs from the pump underneath the engine just below the
crankshaft pulley, where it then double backs and heads to the pressure dampener/sensor/check-valve assembly. To
replace the hose requires disconnecting one of the engine mounts and jacking the engine up a couple of inches to get
it out. Due to the extra labor and it being a specialty hose, it is a more costly repair...around $1500. Unfortunately it is
also a common failure point. Some MB models had a recall on this part. Be sure to check if your car was part of the
recall.
Some people like to speculate that a hose blowing will cause the car to drop suddenly onto its wheels and cause a
crash. This is highly unlikely. The control module has to energize the shutoff valve for each strut to allow fluid to enter
or leave the strut. If the control module senses anything wrong (like a pressure drop), or the control module itself
would fail, then the voltage to the shutoff valves will be interrupted and the valves will close, locking the fluid in the
struts. Conceivably the line between the valve and the strut could fail, or the strut itself could fail, but I suspect these
parts are designed not to "blow" altogether, just develop leaks.
Now if the control module senses inadequate pressure to operate, or if any of the sensors provide in-plausible data,
the system will shut itself down for safety reasons. The offending sensor will be logged for later retrieval by the SDS
system.
Loose connections can happen - sometimes corrosion builds on the connectors, so pulling the connectors and
cleaning the contact points may help. In one case, an owner had an issue with a broken solder point. Bad sensors or
loose connections will often result in an error code with "fault in component" as part of the description. Values of 255
from a sensor generally mean "no reading" or "bad input".
Maintenance
Mercedes says this system is maintenance free. But nearly everyone on the message boards agree that the ABC fluid
should be replaced on a regular basis. How frequently is a subject of debate.
My personal opinion is that the fluid and filter should be replaced every 20,000 miles or 2 years, which ever comes
first. Or as another owner suggested, have the fluid changed with every other oil change. It will cost around $200-300
dollars to purchase the 10 pints of Pentosin CHF 11S fluid, and about $50 for a new filter.
There are DIY write-ups on the web on how to change out the fluid.
Here is an excellent description (message #6 of this thread) on why the fluid should be kept clean:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1899889-great-article-importance-abc-fluid-changes.html
It is somewhat biased in that it is from a company that sells a filter with a magnet in it, but I agree with their
conclusions. They concern themselves more with metal shavings, but the rubber debris that all the rubber components
shed over time also contributes to the eventual failure of components. The fluid also absorbs moisture over time which
will lead to rust accumulation within the pump. Ignore what the MB dealer tells you and flush this ABC fluid regularly!
You should check the fluid levels periodically since it may be your first indication of a hydraulic leak. Just because
there are not any drops of fluid on your garage floor means you don't have any leaks. The panels on the underside of
the car tend to collect leaked fluid and may mask leaks.
It is extremely important to keep contaminants out of the ABC fluid. Wipe the area around the dipstick clean, and use a
lint free cloth to check the fluids.
The fluid when new is light green and clear. If the fluid has turned brown, it should be replaced. If it has become black,
it is extremely dirty and it will lead to costly repairs. The valve blocks will develop leaky seals and the car will start
sagging overnight. The pump bearings will also be experiencing excessive wear and will lead to the pump failing
sooner than normal.
For checking the fluid levels, I recommend the following: 1) Take the car for a short drive to warm it up and purge any
air that might be in the system. 2) With the car running, check the fluid level on the dipstick. 3) Shut the car off, wait 10
minutes, and check the level again. Make sure the ride height is at the normal setting (no lights on the switch) when
taking the measurements. Note the two fluid levels and the distance between. If the difference between the two is
more then the distance between the two level marks on the dipstick, then you may have one or more worn
accumulators. If so keep a close eye on it. Letting the fluid level get too low will risk damaging the pump.
You should also drive the car regularly, at least once per week if not more. The reason being is all the hydraulic orings and seals do not do well with prolonged inactivity. Seals dry out faster. The o-rings in the valves become
deformed from being held in the same position for extended periods of time. Gunk gets the opportunity to settle and
harden. I understand that this is often the 2nd/3rd/4th car for many and only driven during summer months. Just
understand there is some "cost" to leaving the car sit over the winter. The most likely impact being corner sagging
issues will visit more frequently, in my personal opinion.
The system will purge itself of air in the system over time. If you were doing some work and want to get the air out
immediately, you can do so by using the ride height button. Cycling through the levels about 15 times is sufficient to
get most of the air out of the system. The air escapes through a pinhole in the dipstick cap. The rest will work its way
out over time. A rodeo procedure can help speed the process along, but it is NOT necessary.
Also, some shops or techs are under the mistaken impression that rodeos and/or flushes are necessary after replacing
components in the ABC system. It is not the case. Cycling through the ride height levels and adding back any lost ABC
fluid is all that is necessary.
Some message board owners have made a good point that doing a rodeo is rather stressful on the system.
Sometimes a hose will burst or a strut will fail during the test. It can be argued that the rodeo helped you find a
component that was about to fail anyway, but who really knows for sure. My point is use this procedure sparingly.
Costs of Ownership of the ABC System
This is a costly system to repair. Most of the components in the system have a useful life of around 70,000 miles or so.
Purchasing a car with 70,000 miles and owning it to 120,000 miles will be a costly proposition. It is likely you will have
to replace the following during this period of the car's life :
But there is some good news. With the exception of the pump, the other components of the ABC system (the valve
blocks, accumulators, and struts) are in easy to access locations, and replacing them requires only basic mechanical
skills. There are do it yourself write-ups and videos on the web, and support forums where other owners can provide
advice.
So if you are the adventurous type that doesn't mind getting his hands dirty, then you have lots of options to cut down
your repair costs. And you really don't have much to lose other than a tow bill and eating a little humble pie. If you don't
succeed, just put things back the way they were and get the car to a good Indy shop and have them do the
repair...hopefully with your supplied part.
Just returned from a test drive of the base SL (V6 SL350). It uses the engine found in cars like our E320, except here,
it is bored out to 3.7-l and horsepower jumps up to 245-hp, torque from 315 Nm (232 lb/ft) to 350 Nm (258 lb/ft).
Mercedes claims a 7.2 0-62 mph time for the SL350. I was expecting this car to be adequate in terms of performance
but surprisingly, it offers much more than adequate performance. Performance wont touch an SL500, but it sure isnt a
slacker unlike the SL280 and SL320 / 320SLs of the previous generation R129 SLs.
The steering was unusually light and gave the impression that it was vague, yet it responded quickly to driver input
and made the big SL handle pretty nicely. I had no trouble taking the car around the racetrack style country
roads here where handling is a necessity if you drive especially sporty and fast. Handling felt safe and secure
at all times. There was a little body roll but it didnt bother me much. I actually felt the heavy weight of the SL
is a plus for keeping the car on road.
The suspension was a fusion between softness and stiffness, more the former. It was easy to tell that the
suspension was tuned for comfort, it still did a good job of providing the basics and so much more for sporty
driving. At the end of the day however, this changes nothing from the fact that all SLs are cruisers at heart. SL350 up
to SL65 AMG, theyre all biased towards relaxed driving. I can summarize the suspension, handling and steering
qualities all in one word: smooth.
SL350
SL55 AMG
SL 63 AMG
SL 65 AMG
449
485
439
452
3,719
4,310
4,150
4,494
176
176
176
66
66
66
110
110
110
4,200
4,040
4,384
3719
NOTE : On the Black Series SL65 (with coil-overs), when you do a "quick test" via the dealer Star Diagnosis,
there are current fault codes in control units that say "this fault code can be ignored in Black Series models"
after the DTC.
It therefore appears quite possible, in a similar way, to retrofit coil-overs and sway/anti-roll bars to other SLs. Here is
the KW kit for the R230.
NOTE : There is a KW Variant 3 kit for the Non-ABC SL R230.
Once the whole kit is installed, and you have not forgotten the importance of the TORSION (SWAY) BARS, you can
get Bilstein or KW coil-overs.
Bilstein are more reliable than KW and you have the choice of Bilstein B3 or Bilstein B6 Sport kit for the SL55/63.
http://www.rebuildmastertech.com/
Appears to be using standard Mercedes-Benz parts from the SL350 (all available through your MB dealer network).
Clearing Warnings :
In Europe, Australia and Japan, the SL350 is sold with these parts as standard. In an an email reply I received from
"Rebuild Master Tech", following installation, you only need a Mercedes Star Das scanner to remove the ABC
option out of the car's computer. No module is necessary.
What is in the Box :
CO230K KIT (Front and rear OEM shock absorber, coil springs, sway bars, links, P/S Pump)
1 Prepaid return label for old CORES
Cost of the KIT is $2,500.00 plus -if applicable -a refundable U.S CORE DEPOSIT of $1500.00 =$4000.00
Conversion kits are a direct replacements for your vehicle's hydraulic ABC suspension and comes with a Power
Steering Pump and Sway Bars. They require no modification to your vehicle and are OEM designed to "bolt on"
without any welding or cutting.However, professionalinstallationmay be required.
It will take a minimum of 15hr labourand reprogramming the ABC out of the system, so that no warning lights
come on.
You can also drop of you car with Rebuild Master Tech in Florida and have them do the work for you (cost us $
$1,500 for labour).
It will take a 14 days till shipping (installation manual - video, is in the works).
The manufacturer'sOEMdesign is not altered. Offered is a hassle free, Lifetime Warranty.
Rebuild Master Tech is a Bosch Service Centre and have an 18,000 square ft. full Service Repair & Rebuild
Facility for all high-end vehicles.
If you are local, you can drop off your car forinstallationof the KIT (no corecharge; only us$1,500 Labour)
Mail in your 4 Strut Cores, 2 Valves & Power Steering Pump ahead (no core charge)
Order a Conversion KIT, which is shipped right out to you. Then you return cores, using box and prepaid
shipping label provided (us$1,500.00 refundable core charge required with order).NOTE : Core charges are
refunded within 14 business days of receipt of core.
Sl350 (R230) model years 2003-2008 (engine power increase from 2006 to 2008)
Front Conversion Parts
A 230 323 08 00
A 230 321 02 04
A 230 323 00 20
A 230 320 21 11
A 230 320 05 89
A 230 320 06 89
A 211 320 33 89
A 211 323 00 68
N 910 143 008 010
N 000 000 005 272
A 230 326 09 00
A 230 324 02 04
A 230 326 00 64
x2
x2
x2
A 230 320 05 11
A 211 320 33 89
A 005 466 40 01
N 000 000 000 437
N 913 023 012 002
A 140 990 06 51
N 913 023 010 002
NOTE : in above parts list, it appears that H&R lowering springs were supplied with new struts?
Front Conversion Parts
Front Damper/Shock Absorber Strut - A 230 323 08 00
Front Sway/AntiRoll/Torsion Bar - A 230 320 21 11 (note optional adjustable link #50)
Front Sway/Anti-Roll/Torsion Bar Rod Link Stabilizer - A 211 320 33 89 (same as rear)
4x
4x
Rear Sway/Anti-Roll/Torsion Bar Rod Link Stabilizer (left and right) - A 211 320 33 89 (same as front)
2x
2x
2x
2x
SL350 Power Steering Pump (single, not tandem ABC) - A 005 466 40 01
Note : # 10 is single SL350 pump, while # 75 is ABC tandem pump.
A 230 320 23 11
N 910 143 008 010
N 000 000 003 279
A 230 333 02 50
A 230 323 00 17
- Torsion bar
- Screws for torsion bar
- Hexagon nut (torsion bar to rod)
- Bushing
- Torsion bar linkage left and right
A 230 320 22 11
N 910 105 012 012
N 913 023 012 002
N 913 023 008 003
A 230 320 07 89
- Torsion bar
- Screws for torsion bar
- Nuts for torsion bar
- nut (torsion bar to rod)
- Torsion bar linkage left and right
Rear :
1x
2x
2x
2x
2x
Alignment
CASTER
Caster is the measure of how far forward or behind the steering axis is to the verticle axis, viewed from the side. An
example of caster in action is the front wheels on a shopping cart. They run a large amount of positive caster to make
the cart track straight without wandering. However, the method that the cart uses (displacement caster) is different
than how your car develops its caster angle (angled pivot), but the effect is the same.
Positive Caster is when the steering axis is in front of the verticle. In a road car, this would mean that the top of the
coilover would be pushed towards the rear of the car. Positive caster creates a lot of align torque (the force that
straightens the steering wheel when you go forward) which improves straight line stability of the car. Due to the
geometry of positive caster it also will increase negative camber gain (a good thing) when turning. As you increase
positive caster the steering will get heavier also, but with modern power steering systems this is rarely a problem.
Generally you want as much positive caster as you can reasonably get so long as the car is equipped with power
steering.
Negative Caster is when the steering axis is behind the verticle. This is generally only found on older vehicles due to
tire technology, chassis dynamics, and other reasons. Modern vehicles do not use negative caster. It will lighten the
steering effort but also increases the tendency for the car to wander down the road.
NOTE - Regardless of what caster setting you use, make sure that your caster is symmetrical. Running a
different amount of caster on one side will cause the car to pull towards the side with less caster.
TOE
Toe is the measure of how far inward or outward the leading edge of the tire is facing, when viewed from the top. Toe
is measured in degrees and is generally a fraction of a whole degree. It has a large effect on how the car reacts to
steering inputs as well as on tire wear. Aggressive toe angle will cause the tire to develop feathering across its
surface.
Toe-in is when the leading part of the tire is turned inwards towards the center of the car. This makes the tires want to
push inward, which acts to improve straight line stability of the car as its traveling down the road, particularly at high
speed (highway).
Toe-out is when the leading part of the tire is turned outwards away from the center of the car. This makes the tires
want to separate from each other. This improves turn-in response considerably but again, at the cost of tire wear.
Running toe-out in the rear is generally not recommended since it will make the car want to pivot (oversteer) at all
steering angles, but in the right setup it can help (auto-x / technical tracks).
NOTE - Due to the small amount of angle ran you have to take into account the dynamics of your particular
car. For instance, under acceleration and steady state driving a RWD car will be pushing the front along, this
means that when the bushings deflect in the control arms that the tire will want to toe-out. A small amount of
toe-in in the front will allow the tire to zero out. For a FWD car, the front wheels are pulling and the opposite
occurs. The bushings are compressed in the opposite direction and the tires will tend to toe-in, so a small
amount of toe-out is necessary to zero the angle. In an AWD car this gets complicated since the front is
pulling and the rear is pushing. Generally speaking a much milder toe deflection should be realized in this
situation, requiring virtually no change.
Rear Toe - Net Zero, maybe a touch of toe-in if you want a tamer straight line.
CAMBER
Negative Camber is when the top of the tire tucks inwards. For a road going car you typically want to maintain a slight
amount of negative camber (1 2 Degrees) to improve road handling. Camber improves handling by allowing the tire
to apply even loading when the body rolls going into a corner. Without negative camber the tire would load the outer
portion of the tire which would reduce overall grip.
Downsides to negative camber are increased inner tire wear since during normal driving conditions the tire will apply
more load to that portion of the tire. Large amounts of static camber will also generally reduce overall grip during
braking and straight-line acceleration.
Race teams will know how much camber to dial into their car from thermal tire data and driver feedback. At proper
camber settings the tire will exhibit stable and symmetrical temperatures across the tire surface during cornering.
Excessive heating on the inner or outer third of the tire can be indicative of improper camber angle.
Positive Camber is when the top of the tire extends outward, and the base of the tire tucks inwards. This is rarely ever
seen on a road car since it will reduce road handling capability. In special situations, such as NASCAR, positive
camber will be applied to handle heavy amounts of track embankment. If you are running a positive camber figure on
your street car then its highly recommended that you inspect your suspension for damage and/or adjust the camber to
a slight negative figure.
The SL55 AMG brakes are excellent. They should be convincing, not judder (even when hot) and brake in a very
controllable manner. Brakes are expensive, but on cars like these you should take no chances. Make sure the
servicing work has been done buy a reputable person (if shortcuts are taken, and the brake fluid has not been bled
through, this causes a blockage to form in the brake lines, which could be very dangerous, and resulting in brake line
replacement if you cannot clear the pipes.
Rotors will warp over time especially under stressful heated conditions. Heat buildup can be exacerbated by not
replacing the pads before they are thin. New rotors are smooth all the way to the edge, while worn rotors will have a lip
at the edge.
Warped rotors create a vibration while braking. In the front this can be felt through the steering wheel. In the rear there
will be a rumbling vibration. Typically the rotor can be machined, or turned, to remove the warping so long as the rotor
thickness remains within spec., but MB dealer will not do this and will only replace with new parts.
Rear pads usually only last 20,000 miles (due to traction control working on the rear brakes)
Front pads last longer at about 30,000 miles
Discs/rotors usually last at least two pad changes if not three or four.
The cost of a brake job (parts and labor), in dealer, if it's just pads is around $250, rotors and pads $750. They are
actually pretty cheap to have done relative to a lot of cars in the same class.
You can do the front brakes on an SL55 for $110/each for the front rotors and $200 for pads.
Note : Low dust pads tend to be more prone to overheating, cause brake disc wear, and judder
Consider renewing the brake pads when less that 1/3 of the friction material remains.
Both front and rear sets have the cutouts for wear sensors, but they are not located in exactly the same location
as the stock pads (not a big deal, as the sensor wire is long enough to reach the different sensor location)
You can reuse the stock shims on the front and put the new shims with the rears (the stock shims are quieter, so
reuse on rear also)
Coat the shims and back of the pads with some Permatex or similar anti-squeal compound.
Dealer replaces the pins, however, the reality is that it is perfectly acceptable to use the pins multiple
times and most people reuse the pins, throughout all pad changes, during the life of the vehicle.
Squealing Brakes (DO NOT fit pads other that OEM AMG dealer pads)
Usually caused by poor aftermarket pads.
For example, a SL55 owner chose Textar pads as he had used them on various cars previously. However, after
installing on the SL55, he noticed that after the first few stops, they squealed very badly, and once mildly warm, they
squealed every time below about 10km/h.
His solution was to revert to standard MB pads. No more squealing.
?mm x ?
?mm x ?
Method 2
You can also change the brake pads by disconnecting the consumer battery (boot/trunk) and pumping the pedal a few
times.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
Be careful to watch the fluid level and made sure the pistons do not extrude (even if the pads are down to a few
millimetres, the fluid level in the reservoir should not rise more than a few millimetres when the pistons are
pushed back)
On one side of the car there will be a sensor from pad to a locator on the hub - remove it.
Draw out the old pads
Remove the anti squeal plates and put them all to one side for now
Clean the pad sliding surfaces inside the calliper with a wire brush
If you have a brake squealing issue, you may want to put some anti-squeal compound (CRC Brake Quiet is
good or one made by Permatex) on the back of the pads before putting them on. Apply and smooth out a small
amount on the backing plates of the pads (only use a little, and let dry for about 10mins. before installing pads
This material will harden up, and conform to the calliper carrier and calliper and prevent brake squealing.
Liberally spread some anti squeal paste on the back and edges of the new pad steel backing plate (do not get
any onto the pad surface) and refit the anti squeal plates
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
Reinsert the spring plate/clip and retaining pins, and using a small punch, to tap the pins back into place from
the rear, and make sure that each pin 'clicks' into place. (Do not use grease or ant-seize on the pins. Just keep
clean and dry)
Check fluid level and top up if required
Remove the cotton wrapping from the brake master cylinder
Reinstall the wheel
Reconnect the brake module/pump wiring harness by plugging it back in
Start car (you will notice all sorts of red warning lights and messages on the dash, but don't panic)
While car is idling, step on the brake pedal several times to set the pads, while pedal is still depressed, turn the
steering wheel from lock to opposite lock TWICE. After about 30 seconds, all the warning lights and messages
will go away.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Follow the section for removing brake pads in Replacing SL55 AMG Brake Pads above
Get a stand (a large paint can is good) that will fit behind the disc with the top flat just under the calliper (this is
to rest the calliper on after the next step)
Behind the calliper there are two large 21mm bolts, holding it to the hub (these bolts are fitted with Loctite, so
they will be tough to undo, and you will probably have to use a long lever)
Rest the removed calliper on the stand you have ready and move away from the disc/rotor
Remove the small torx head screw holding the disc/rotor to the hub
If you are lucky, the disc/rotor will pull straight off.
If not, persuade it with a judicial blow of a large hammer, and failing that, try this method below (using an
improvised disc/rotor puller, wind the clamps up tight, then strike the disc/rotor on the hub face with a large
hammer, and "BANG": they fall off) :
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Follow the section for removing brake pads in Replacing SL55 AMG Brake Pads above
Get a stand (a large paint can is good) that will fit behind the disc with the top flat just under the calliper (this is
to rest the calliper on after the next step)
Behind the calliper there are two large 21mm bolts, holding it to the hub (these bolts are fitted with Loctite, so
they will be tough to undo, and you will probably have to use a long lever)
Rest the removed calliper on the stand you have ready and move away from the disc/rotor
Remove the small torx head screw holding the disc/rotor to the hub
If you are lucky, the disc/rotor will pull straight off.
As 7
Fit the new disc/rotor by following the above steps in reverse
Smear a film of copper grease on the hub face before replacing the new disc/rotor
Refit the small torx head screw holding the disc/rotor to the hub
Make sure you use some Loctite on the calliper bolts, and do them up TIGHT
Follow the section for replacing brake pads in Replacing SL55 Rear Brake Pads above, including plugging in
the SBC, and starting car, etc.
Time involved, was probably 30 minutes per side
Brake Fluid
2 pints of DOT4 brake fluid for flush.
Most of the brake system hydraulics will also last a long time with fluid changes every 1-2 years. Many enthusiasts
recommend ATE Super Blue fluid, as well as Speed Bleeders which contain a check valve and replace the stock
bleeder screw. Note that the S4 brakes have a separate bleeder screw for each side of the calliper (a total of eight per
car).
Retighten the bleeder and you're done (above not shown on an SL55 AMG).
Note : Going with shop manual, bleed the outer screw on each calliper first, then the inner screw (calliper
furthest away from the reservoir first, working back to the calliper closest to the reservoir), in this order :
1. Left Rear
2. Right Rear
3. Left Front
4. Right Front
Brake Dust
Try using Armour All Wheel Protectant aerosol spray (not wheel cleaner) to keep the brake dust at bay. It's pretty
amazing and you will find less brake dust on the wheels and it's easier to clean off.The key is to thoroughly clean the
wheels first, then thoroughly spray the Wheel Protectant liberally, then let it sit over night. If you miss spots on the
wheel you'll notice brake dust accumulating there. The brake dust seems to bead on the wheel and that's why blowing
it off with compressed air seems to work.
!
He rolls up the long driveway to Andretti Winery, hops out, and surveys the hardware. "Man, look at this. What a way
to start the day." His Indy 500 winner's ring glints in the sun, and the eyes which have softened over the years but can
still cut glass with their gaze dance from one exotic ragtop to another. "Where to begin?"
Mario Andretti has spent 40 years squeezing speed out of anything with wheels. We thought it would be insightful and
more than good fun to draft him into service as an MT test driver for a day. His experience in setting up and shaking
down race cars would be wasted, however, on econosedans or minivans. So serious machinery was a must. And
since it's summertime, why not four fantasy convertibles?
Naturally, said wheels had to get from our Los Angeles offices to Andretti's Napa Valley winery, so several members of
our editorial staff "graciously volunteered" to pilot them up and down scenic and twisty California State Highway 1,
which winds along much of the Pacific seaboard. Why the backroads of Napa and Highway 1 instead of a racetrack?
"That's not the way the buyers of these cars are going to drive them," notes Andretti. "Besides, what would be new
about me doing that?"
The Players
2003 Mercedes-Benz SL55 AMG
Mercedes-Benz SLs have always been elegant, luxurious, even sporty transport for two. But with the exception of
those early 300SL gullwings and roadsters, they've seldom been truly exciting. This notion finally has been addressed
in the form of the all-new-for-'03 SL500 (now on sale in the U.S.). We went a step further, convincing Mercedes-Benz
to send us its maximum-strength SL, the AMG-fortified version that comes to market this fall.
The SL55 AMG packs serious heat: a 5.5L supercharged, inter-cooled DOHC V-8, rated at 476 DIN horsepower in
Euro trim (as was our test car). It gets better: The U.S. version will be rated at 493 hp. Its max torque rating, an equally
impressive 516 lb-ft, shows up at just 2650 rpm. The blower is a helical screw-type unit connected to the crankshaft via
a V-belt and an electromagnetic clutch; the latter allows the supercharger to freewheel under light load conditions and
minimises overrun when the throttle is closed. This formidable power-plant is backed by a five-speed automatic
transmission equipped with a bimodal TouchShift function. The driver can choose gears sequentially via the shift lever
or by small up- and downshift paddles mounted on the back side of the steering wheel.
There's technology everywhere you look. The SL features M-B's new electrohydraulic brake system, Sensotronic
Brake Control, Active Body Control (with a Sport mode in AMG trim), and an Electronic Stability Control system. The
already well-crafted SL cockpit gets further upgraded, including exclusive AMG leather and Alcantara upholstery, plus
touches of aluminium trim. There's little required outside, as the SL's shape is a nice piece of work, but AMG adds
subtle body trim, badging, and wider-than-stock 18-in. alloys, and Pirelli PZero Rossos. We remain impressed with the
SL's one-touch retractable hardtop, which includes a power-operated wind blocker and a protective shell in the trunk to
cover your belongings while the top is being raised or lowered. All in, a superb bit of design and engineering.
2002 Ferrari 360
No sentence containing the words "fantasy" and "convertible" would be complete without Ferrari's 360 Spider. This
emotive mid-engine sports car was introduced last year as an expansion of the 360 Modena lineup. It's an aluminium
intensive machine, using light alloys for its body panels, engine, transmission, suspension, and chassis structure. Its
3.6L/394-hp cinquevalvole (five valves per cylinder) V-8 screams to lofty 8500 rpm. Our tester had Ferrari's F1
sequential/ manual six-speed gearbox, plus a snazzy set of newly optional two-piece modular alloy wheels. Any car
that turns its engine into a design element by showing it off through a glass panel on the deck is okay in our book.
2002 Aston Martin Vanquish
Much attention has been given to the Aston Martin Vanquish's selection as James Bond's new ride, but it's not
available in convertible form, Aston still makes the ever-elegant DB7 Vantage Volante. A 414-hp V-12 replaced the
former supercharged inline-six a few years back, and Aston has continued to give the DB7 subtle tweaks over time.
Our car was equipped with a five-speed automatic transmission that, much like the Mercedes, features Drive and
Sport automatic modes, plus the opportunity to shift semi-manually via the lever or buttons mounted on the front
surface of the steering wheel. The Vantage's power top requires manual latching, but is well padded and lined in
Alcantara suede.
2002 BMW Z8
BMW's retro-modern Z8 roadster also a recent Bond machine remains one of our favourite super cars. Like the
Ferrari, it makes extensive use of aluminium, but employs a space frame instead of a monocoque chassis. Beneath its
voluptuous alloy skin resides the underpinnings of an M5, a certain Good Thing. That includes the super-sedan's 5.0L/
394-hp V-8, six-speed manual transmission, suspension, and brakes. A Sport button allows the driver to request
sharper throttle tip-in, while Dynamic Stability and Traction Control are there when required or can be shut off if
desired. The superbly detailed interior is an artful blend of heritage-inspired and modern design cues. The Z8 is handbuilt in small quantities and is a sellout each year.
On The Road
Andretti's hands have a light yet sure grip on the banjo-style steering wheel. His eyes seek the apex yet look through
the corner in preparation for the next. "Fun. Fun fun fun!" is how Mario summarises the BMW Z8. "It's such a refined,
classic front-engine roadster. It's got the power of a muscle-car, but is so much sweeter, much more European." Since
the engine's torque peak comes at 3800 rpm, there's little reason to use every inch of the tach. Andretti doesn't,
shifting at around 5000 revs, letting the torque do the rest.
He likes the handling, too, but asks for even sharper turn in. "They've put some initial understeer into the package, but
it's still very tight, as you'd expect. I do like the fact that, even over bumpy surfaces, the Z8's suspension allows it to
maintain full contact with the road." Andretti's happy with the ride quality, but keeps coming back to the hand-built, M5
V-8. "There are just no holes in the power anywhere, and it's really fun to work it down low. It's `right there' and sounds
awesome." Mario comments little about ergonomics, but adds that the dash isn't exactly "self explanatory. The gauges
are in an unusual place, but I like that, and they're very nice."
Andretti's barely taken his finger off the Aston Martin's starter button, and he's already commenting on the intoxicating
sound of its sport-exhaust-equipped 6.0L V-12. "For me, the sound of this car gets a 10." Later, he says, "This car is
more conventional, not tuned to be an aggressive sports car, but it's still very neutral, very nice." Softish, front anti-roll
bars allow for quick turn in at the expense of some body roll. The Aston doesn't leap off the line, owing to its automatic
transmission's tall gearing and relatively heavy overall weight. "The mid-range torque is impressive," says Mario, "but
the transmission's lazy shifts let it down a bit. I also prefer some sort of paddle shifter on the back of the steering
wheel, as opposed to this car's recessed buttons on the front. You have to fumble around too much to find them."
The farther we get up SR 121, away from Napa itself, the more Andretti begins to hustle the Vantage. "It's subtle, but
once you get the feel for it, you can really get it going." The huge brakes, with their large callipers and drilled/vented
rotors, certainly do the job, but require a lot of pedal effort. Going back to the exhaust note of its smooth V-12, Mario
says he'd "consider the Aston Martin for the sound alone.
"Originally, I didn't like the concept of Ferrari's F1 gearbox," notes the man who's won numerous races in both Ferrari
Formula One and sports cars, "but the more I drive them, the more I'm convinced it's the only way to go. Lower speed
shifts still seem slow to me, but they're really good when you're on it." No wonder: Ferrari claims this generation of the
F1 system can shift gears in 150 milliseconds. In his racing days, Mario could do it in 20. Andretti offers no complaints
about the engine: "Isn't that amazing? 8500 rpm in a street car, so easy to drive, and again what a sound.
"Handling-wise," Andretti continues, "the Ferrari is always in the box. It never really reaches a terminal understeer or
oversteer condition." Most of the sports cars he raced were mid-engine, so it's understandable he'd be immediately
comfortable in the Spider. He also praises the steering's precision feel and feedback and obviously enjoys working the
brakes. "It's just so right there. It invites you to drive it faster and faster and faster." Indeed: Mario not so accidentally
misses our predetermined turnaround location, asking to hit "just one more corner." Okay, if you insist.
At full throttle, the SL55 AMG sounds like the devil gargling methanol. It doesn't whoop like the Aston or wail like the
Ferrari. Peg the pedal, and the Mercedes emits a polished, gutteral growl. Andretti's particularly interested in the SL's
supercharged V-8 and isn't disappointed. "As you can see, I'm smiling. The Mercedes is an awesome piece of tech. I
like the automatic's paddle shifters, to be able to monitor the revs. The acceleration is what you'd expect of 460-plus
horses."
Mario's quick to recognise the Mercedes place as a high-speed GT. "It's not nimble like a small sports car; you do feel
the weight and mass. But it's so surefooted and stable. Great steering feel, brakes as good as I've felt." He's also
impressed by the lack of body roll, a sign that the Active Body Control does its job without making the handling feel
artificial.
Unfortunately, the roads we're on are a little too tight to make the most of the SL55's long legs, as the trans or
supercharger is occasionally caught out of step in quick transitions. On longer stretches, its high-speed stability may
be the best we've ever experienced. "You need Spa or Monza for this car." He would know. The SL styling and interior
also proves to be Andretti's pick of the litter. "Front, side, rear it's modern and classic, with great subtleties in the
design and detail. You can tell everything was really worked on."
Conclusions
This may sound like a cop-out, but there are no winners or losers here only choices influenced by preference.
Aston Martin's customers don't buy these cars based on hard-number performance. Yet considering that the Vantage
is a gran turismo as opposed to a pure sports car, and the only 2+2 of the group, it has acquitted itself well. It's fast
and handles nicely, yet maintains an appropriately supple ride/handling balance. The warbling 6.0L V-12 is an
outstanding piece and will figure well into Aston's future product plans. The DB7 platform is now nearly 10 years old,
and it's beginning to show. In fact, its replacement is already being developed. Although the Vantage can't match the
whiz-bang technology and ergonomics in the Mercedes, we appreciate its appeal as an elegant if pricey premiumluxury convertible.
There's nothing not to love about the Z8. It's a classically inspired front-engine roadster that'll accelerate step for step
with the Ferrari, yet mellows to a well-mannered cruiser at 6/10ths. It packs a lion-hearted engine and a worthy, if
slightly conservatively tuned, suspension. The interior would fit well into any museum exhibit on design automotive or
otherwise. A little more-than-expected wind noise with the top up is our main gripe. Anyone who feels that German
cars too often tend toward a lack of emotion needs to drive a BMW Z8.
All these machines are athletes, but the Ferrari 360 Spider is the sprinter among a pack of distance runners. Its
amidship engine placement and lighter weight are just two indicators. The 360's power-plant is the smallest in this
field, yet it accelerated the second quickest, happily wailing its way to redline in every gear. It simply ran away and hid
in any sort of cornering competition. It served up the shortest stopping distance of the group, as well, with minimal dive
and superb brake modulation. The Spider's interior is comfortable and relatively quiet, and we're impressed with the
quality and engineering of its one-touch, self-covering top. Andretti summarises it succinctly: "The Ferrari is the one
here that invites you to attack the road." The 360 Spider isn't your friend or your sister: She's your mistress. And she's
hot.
Our expectations of the SL55 AMG were extremely high. Yet, this amazing road-eater exceeded them all. It's a
hyper-powerful, fine-handling GT that embodies liberal amounts of sports and muscle-car. Yes, it's heavy, and
not everyone is philosophically enamoured of so much hardware and technology. But it all works exceedingly
well, keeping the car safe, giving it high limits, and making it feel at least somewhat smaller than it is. Its
exceptional prowess never comes at the expense of ride, comfort, or luxury. The SL55 AMG is truly a super
car you can drive every day: the new king among front-engine luxury/performance roadsters.
encounter a squishy pedal while lapping Road America, even with all the electronic enhancements (Sensotronic Brake
Control) incorporated into this system.
Which brings us to this car's all-around dynamics. Mercedes refers to its "catlike handling reflexes," which is true, if
you envision a cat the size of a Siberian tiger. The key to the SL55's level cornering attitudes is the corporate Active
Body Control electro, mechanical, hydraulic, almost-active suspension, re-calibrated in this application for firmer
responses without compromising ride quality. Although this sophisticated system can't erase weight (it's always there,
always tangible) it manages that weight amazingly well, whether the car is clawing the pavement in a fast sweeper or
unkinking a set of switchbacks. This kind of activity is abetted by the SL55's speed-sensitive rack-and-pinion steering,
which seems to deliver a little more tactile information than the SL500's system, and by the availability of all that torque
for blasting off corners.
As you'd expect, the SL55 is posh-plus inside, with all the hedonistic goodies that distinguish the SL500, which is far
from a torture chamber itself, plus some AMG fillips such as a sport steering wheel, aluminium interior trim, Alcantara
suede atop the instrument binnacle and in the headliner, a superb 10-speaker audio system, silver-face AMG
instruments with red needles, and, the most seductive interior element, deep leather-clad power bucket seats with
serious torso bolsters, for those moments when the owner feels moved to rub up against the limits of adhesion.
Why rare? Check the bottom line. All of which makes this an unlikely toy for young guys prone to red mist. The SL55 is
an executive hot rod for folks with lots of disposable income and Kevlar-clad portfolios.
Buyers Guide
There's a lot of love for the venerable Mercedes roadster. One of the best of the breed is the SL55 AMG, so perhaps
now is the time to consider taking the plunge.
The SL55 AMG was the most powerful road car ever built by Mercedes when it was launched in 2002 and, clearly, one
of the best SLs ever. It arrived in the UK in the summer of that year, following on from the R230 SL500 on which it was
based, with 476hp from its 5.4-litre supercharged V8. The 89,040 SL55 covered 0-62mph in 4.7 seconds and had an
electronically capped top speed of 155mph.
There was immediate speculation about the SL55's true top speed from the moment it was launched. To prove the
car's potential, one German car magazine removed the electronic limiter and drove an otherwise standard SL55 to
202mph.
When Merc brought in its revised styling for the SL in 2008, it took the chance to drop the M113 5.4-litre V8 and
replace it with the M156 6.2-litre V8 to create the SL63. For this guide, we'll stick with the M113-powered SL55 that is
far more plentiful and popular. Even with this popularity, however, early SL55 AMGs are now into the affordable
bracket from around 16,000, which makes them a fine performance bargain.
Powertrain
The SL55 AMG's 5.4-litre V8 may have been based on the SL500's, but very little of the less powerful, nonsupercharged motor remains untouched. For starters, there's the belt-driven screw-style supercharger that sits in the
vee of the engine block. With Teflon-coated aluminium screws, the supercharger can spin at up to 23,000rpm when the
engine is at its limit. This rev limit for the engine is increased to 6,100rpm from the standard SL500's 5,600rpm ceiling.
To cope with this extra power and its associated stresses, AMG engineers adapted the crankcase to use special
transverse screws. The engine also runs with a strengthened block, uprated bearings and pistons with greater
resistance to heat and pressure. Also helping the motor to cope is an improved oil supply system with modified sump
and higher capacity oil pump.
The SL55's engine bore remains the same as the SL500's, but stroke for the AMG was increased from 84.0mm to
92.0mm, giving the 5.4-litre capacity that is 473cc greater than the SL500's. Other changes made by AMG include
cylinder heads with revised intake and exhaust ducts, higher-lift camshafts with longer opening durations and double
springs for the valves.
Mercedes also used the SL55 to introduce fully computer-controlled engine mapping for the first time on its road cars.
Along with the SL55's twin catalytic convertors, it managed carbon dioxide emissions of 340g/km, which were
considered very reasonable in 2002.
Problems with the M113 V8 are very rare as it's a strong engine. Check the oil and coolant fluids are clean to the level,
and make sure all of the visible pipework is in good condition as access around the engine is tight. The charge cooler
for the supercharger sits in the engine's V and uses its own radiator, so have this checked for leaks or corrosion. A
squeaky supercharger can be made quieter by squirting some graphite spray down the head of the supercharger. It's
not a complete fix, but the supercharger is a strong unit and should give no problems, even with an uprated pulley
fitted from established tuners such as Kleemann.
Much more of a worry is the five-speed automatic gearbox, which also came with paddle shifts mounted on the rear
side of the steering wheel. On any test drive, check the gear lever slots from Park into Reverse, Neutral and Drive
cleanly. If there's any hesitation, resistance or it needs to be given a shake to make it work, the plastic peg that
prevents the lever inadvertently being knocked into Reverse without the driver's foot on the brake is about to break. It's
a relatively easy part to replace and there are direct replacements made from aluminium available that cure the fault. A
Mercedes dealer may elect to replace the entire unit, which can add up to 1,500 in components and labour rates. The
gearbox also needs its fluid completely changed every five years.
The rest of the SL55's transmission is very tough, though watch out for cars that have been used on track as the
AMG's weight will give every component a hard time. In normal mixed driving, the SL55 should go 12,000 miles
between services.
"The engine is generally bullet proof and there are owners out there with galactic miles on their cars."
Comfortable ride and clever stability systems, but watch for hydraulic leaks
Mercedes fitted its ABC (Active Body Control) as standard to the SL55 AMG, which allows the car to corner more flatly
yet retain a comfortable ride. It uses hydraulically controlled servos connected to the springs and dampers and did
away with the need for anti-roll bars. This didn't stop AMG's engineers coming up with improved, stronger rear axle
mounts, a beefier steel subframe and better spring links.
Undoubtedly a clever solution, ABC now poses a worry for potential SL55 buyers as the pipework corrodes and lets
fluid leak away. In turn, this lets the ABC's hydraulic pump run dry, which is usually the first component to be blamed
for the system failing. Check the pipes carefully and budget for replacement if there are any signs of corrosion. In
doing so, you may save yourself the cost of a new ABC pump, so check for any signs of fluid leaking underneath the
car.
Another leak to watch out for is from the fuel tank caused by a faulty fuel pump. Again, most will have been replaced
under warranty by Mercedes, but some cars were missed and are spotted by a ticking noise from the tank when it's
less than three-quarters full.
The SL55 was blessed with improved brakes over the standard SL range, gaining eight-piston callipers biting into
360mm vented discs at the front. This set-up almost doubles the front pad face to 220 square centimetres compared to
the SL500. At the back, there are 330mm vented discs and early SL55s came as standard with multi-spoke 18-inch
AMG alloy wheels. Later cars were fitted with 19-inch twin-spoke alloys that are easier to clean and less prone to
kerbing.
You can expect the brake pads to last around 20,000 miles in normal driving, but they do wear more quickly than most
cars'. Discs will also need replacing more frequently than with many other cars of similar performance, but the ESP
and Emergency Brake Assist systems are reliable and hassle-free.
However, the Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) was subject to two recalls early in the SL55's life. One was for a
software update to the ECU and the other was to check for problems with the brake's hydraulic system. A check of any
SL55's history file should tell if this work has been required and carried out, so don't buy any SL55 without a complete
history record.
Finally, tyre wear should not be any worse than for a comparably quick and powerful rear-wheel-drive car. The front
tyres are 255/40 R18 and 285/35 R18 at the rear for earlier cars.
Svelte styling and that folding metal roof
The SL55 that is part of the R230 generation has a steel monocoque. However, Mercedes made extensive use of
aluminium for many of the body panels to help keep weight down. This means a thorough check of the body for dents
and parking dings is essential as aluminium is trickier and pricier to fix.
The SL55 uses the folding metal Vario-Roof that incorporates aluminium to help reduce weight. While the roof itself is
no cause for concern, the seal between rear windows and body is, which leads on to problems with the roof's electric
motor, the central locking and alarm. When these seals fail, it allows water into the boot where it gathers around the
roof's motor. To make matters worse, Mercedes surrounded the motor with foam to insulate the cabin from noise when
the roof was being operated. The foam acts as a sponge, holding water around the motor and causing it to fail.
When looking at any SL55, lift the boot carpet and feel for damp. Any signs of water are bad news and likely mean
you'll need to replace the electric motor. This is the root of all the stories about the SL's folding roof failing, even
though Mercedes tried to rectify the problem when the car was new. Some cars still suffer from this fault, so inspect
any SL55 carefully.
Mercedes finally cured the leaky roof issue in 2005 with redesigned seals and these may well have been retro-fitted to
an earlier car you're considering. While checking the roof, also listen out for any rattles when the roof is raised. It's not
uncommon for the roof to creak a little, but it can be the sign of poor alignment from the factory or, worse still, crash
damage.
Distinguishing features for the SL55 from the outside are the 'Kompressor' badges on either front wing, a deeper front
splitter, side skirts and dual twin tail pipes for the exhaust. All body panels are readily available for any crash repairs.
Owner's views
"After many years of driving different cars, I eventually realised for me, and possibly others, the compromises Porsche
and Ferrari make to obtain outstanding lap times at the track do not translate into good cars for the roads we have. So
I thought back to the 55 AMG and realised it did everything you would need in a road car."
"The engine is generally bullet proof and there are owners out there with galactic miles on their cars."
"The comfort is superb in an SL55 AMG. It's a heavy car and doesn't handle quite as sharply as some sports cars, but
the Merc is a great everyday car as it does everything well, so long as you buy a good one from the outset."
"On the inside, it's typically Mercedes: everything is close to hand and the fit and finish and switch quality are superb.
It's a tad Germanic-dull if you have sat in a Ferrari 360 or 430. If you feel the SL is lacking in occasion opt for the
panoramic roof that adds a special touch, but equally I love the Alcantara headlining with matching Alcantara on the
pillars and instrument binnacle."
My Buyers Checklist
Car & Seller Info
Sellers Name
___________________________________________
Address
___________________________________________
___________________________________________
___________________________________________
Telephone
___________________________________________
Car Make
___________________________________________
Car Model
___________________________________________
Asking Price
Date
$ ___________________________________________
___________________________________________
___________________________
Mileage
_________________Km __________________Miles
_________________________________________
_________________________________________
Interior Colour
_________________________________________
Yes / No
Automatic
Yes / No
Original Engine
Yes / No __________________________________
Yes / No
Yes / No
Any Accidents?
Yes / No
Emission Test?
Yes / No
Safety Test?
Yes / No
Why Selling
________________________________________
Inspection Tips :
Always inspect/take delivery of the vehicle in the broad daylight; never in the evening/night or in the rain.
A clean piece of cardboard placed under the engine/trans after the test-drive will help show fluid leaks.
Require seller have the vehicle pass all state inspections (safety, emissions) at a mutually agreeable shop (NOT
one of his choosing) before you pay for it. Old (>30 days) inspections are of absolutely no use to you.
Black smoke = unburned fuel (valves bad or out of adjustment? Carb out of adjustment?)
Blue smoke = burning oil (Accelerating: Piston rings bad? Decelerating: Valve seats/guides bad?)
White smoke = burning coolant! (Bad head gasket? Warped or cracked Head or Block? $$$)
=
=
=
=
Excellent
Good
Average
Poor
Make sure the VIN matches other VIN's on the vehicle and paperwork (original / no alterations)
Does the car stand level?
Visually inspect for rust, repairs, damage, alignment, mismatched paint, overspray (magnet detects filler)
Open and close doors / hood / trunk / tailgate for proper operation
Inspect grill / trim / rubber moulding for bends or splits, dings, missing parts and proper attachment
Inspect the windshield / wipers and side and rear windows for damages, pitting, repairs, wiper marks or cracks
Does the car bounces too much when you push one of the corners down?
Damaged rims?
Do tyres have irregular wear (alignment problem)?
Are wheels and tyres correct size and tyres have good tread depth / pressure?
2. Engine compartment
4
Inspect wiring
Look for water pump leaks
Any indication of poor repair work / lack of maintenance? (e.g. badly corroded battery terminals, very low oil level, etc.)
Check for smoke coming from the exhaust (slight water steam is OK)
Any warning lights stay on or come on while the engine is running?
Is the engine oil pressure too low at idle?
Is the engine idle and rev quality smooth when cold and hot?
Are there any noises (knocking, pinging, whistling, etc)?
Keep it running until the engine is hot, and check for exhaust smoke again
Check oil cap and dipsticks for signs of water. (oil off-colour, brown/grey/white or bubbly)
=
=
=
=
Excellent
Good
Average
Poor