Nt).

77

t)
j

NOTES FROt-..1THE SHOP

$3.95

No. 77

October, 1991

E D ITO

R . S:..._..::C.....;.().::._:::.L.....;.U~M~N.:....:...._
__

Sawdust
<Ii!or Donald B. P....,hk.
Design Dirt-dno"
Ted~k
Managing edh... D"UjIlo.< L, HIde:<
A.<Ddate-EdiLOr Terry J. StroIunon
Assistant Edilon>
DoIM

J._.....

Ridw-dS.P .......
Oo,don Gaippe

Proj<"Cto...;gnl"t Ki)n Munk.t

A..sislantArt o;,..,(or Rod StMkc...
1l1u5lr.llorso..-id fVl'yling

CwyChri.... .._

t"hri:; Glowacki
DirkVer~

KA,,, Sell Ulll

Shop~f3tl~ S~~Cuni'"

CimllallOll D....:tor U:t Bred""".

So.b!.aiptionManilJ1<"1' Slndy Boum
CircuiatioOl\na!ysl Jim Woodson
Kent A. Bockton
WOODS~lrmSOURCEBOOK
Marlt.tingDIrector _n
\Iuny
G,..phicsDirator JooSD)..rer
Project Supplies '-""Ii. ,\nn 00_
Uncia JOOM
W~h"""" Jffl) ea""'n. Sopv.
Gloria Sh'-"ChD.n

)/.....,.."andSaJ..

Ronold ....og

Do\ld SW,t<
Cul'lomers.MceMgr

Und.M~

C",mml'rScMl'<' J.nnie no8

~B_
Mlc$milll
Robe". Ru_,b
JoyJoh"",,"
tori Seibert
TammJJuht

Sourct'bookAAlvertising Je.n My....

CORPORATESF.~lCES
Coruroller Paul . Groy

Bo<;kk""l'illl: Unda O'Rourke

N..!,,"orkAdmlnislrator

_~I.

l)o ..
Ud .....
Admhii>traliwA..:IL CberyI A. Sron

BuildtDltMaiolt"!Wl<., Ken Grijlith

An'l>l. K"""",

STORE ~IAN>\GERS

v.,.. M.i" .... IA K..,! Wel'<h

"Bl'rlky, CA MI""" .. DelI",,,,,

uilding Curniture in a production

It w,,",oor,;alutian toaditemma-s-noone
(pro(e&iiiorud) ,;hOI' usually ;n\'<II'..... "iIf,I.-d ,lIh,ni>tOg in Wood$mitll. But alvery differem methodsand technlquesthaa
ItlP!<I,'v"r)onl' w,rn Ied ihe in(onnation thai
used in a home shop. TI,e biggest ta"Wr b nd\'trt"lOg can .;upply,
repetition. Production shopsemploya 101of
AI Ih",,;un. time. for the pasllWO years
Jigs. set-ups, and templates because they're we've lit "n exp<'riOlenLillg wi1h the format
doing the same lask over and over 10 OJ lj'I.\ \\"cN.I.. "jIJJt calRtog that is sent cut
produce multiple pieces of furniture.
\\Ilh t-OK-I, ISSUI',
BUI some of tho se methods can be very
Aller. tilde br:ull$(onning, we carne up
usefulln building a single piece of furniture with a ",lullOll w,' all liked . , .combine the
in a home shop. For example, both of the eurrem "lal"R ",;th the old version of the
projeclsin this issue require culling curved S",,,,,, book, .,lId make il ....en better.
shapes, It would be easy to draw the curve
The id,'11ls 10 mllke the new lVood.mlth
directly on the plywood. CUI il to rough Sou n:..I"jI}k U UJlI\ ersal -euree of tnforma.shape. and sand it til final smoothness.
lion for wood"ork"N
BUIwe decided to use a production shop
It has ''''pand''d U~tinJr.<for the project
method of making a template to CUI oul the 'UI)IJlie~ and IO(JI~ needed to build
shape, Granted, you have 10 spend a lot of lI'ood"",itl,I"OJl'CI'. And it has photoS and
time making a template, when you could dl.,;cripli(>n, III the I"ult'ct' in the past Ishave spent that time on the finished piece,
sues. just like the old ",wIOll.
BUIthere are two advantages to makilll:
11'<'0 we added two more sections.
templates, First, if you make a mistake, it There' 3 DiI'l'eIO!,)'ListingOI illIthecempawill be on the template rather Ihan on ex- nics thai rnakejust about e.,'tlrythingwood
pensive hardwood or plywood. Secood.you workers need. This Ustingwill continue to
cal) see and aller the shape of the template grow so )'0011 have easy accessto suppliers
before committing to the final shape, This is ifyou're looking (or so m~ing.
particularly useful in a design/build situaWe 've alrcad)' planned to expand the
tion. where you're designing al'you go.
Listing section by adding an index to the
\\le look this template method one step anicle:; and projects that have appeared in
further. In a horne shop. you mighl make all the past issues oIIVood$""th,
Ihe leOlplale 10 use only asa pattern. Thatis.
And there's one more addition to the new
after the template is made. irs only used to So"rcebook. TI,e Showcase section makes
trace the outline of the shape Then you a easy to orderwoodworklng c-atalogs. and
rough cut and sand down to the line.
informarion about tools and supplies.
Instead. we used the template as a guide (There's even a special order (orm for
10 actually cut the piece to final shape. This
ordering the items in the Showcase section.
lsdonewith arouter anda Oushlrim bit.The It's auached next to the catalog order form.
pilol be-dnog on the bit (ollows Ih~ edge o( Look on the back 01the <hcct thai has your
the leml'131elocuta ~riec(duplicate of the label on it.)
shape. Since you've SPI'llt aU the time 10gel
W~ all ho~ you like this new version of
the lemplate ~riecl, you might as well take the Woods", illt SOli rc~b<l(lk.
advant:Jge ofit.
NE\\' F\CES.Jim WoodsonhasjoinW our
staff asacirculationannlysl.)im ison~oCthe
WOODSMITH SOUJICEBOOK
few graduat~ in the counll)' with an M.B..~
\Vith thil;: i~liue. we're- inU'oducinganey,~and
in direct marketing. Thai provides him ,,;!h
eXjlal1dedversion oCthe catalogwe S(."doUl a strong background in th~ stalistical analy.
withcach i~suc, And it has a new name: the sis D~ded (or magn7inc circulation.
lVQ/ldJ<mitl,SOli"'

,,,,,,Ir

Long-time reade" wiD probably recog

ni?.e the SQllrcrbook name. For the past
several years We have publishw an annual
version of the SOll''ffbook. It contained
listings o( woodworking catalogs and lools.
and it also carried advertising.

\'(/ll<ld,mlth

AN01'ItER N.W F\CI;. Also joining u. i.

Tamml Juhl You might hear her cheerful

voice if you caU 10 ord ....""m~thing from the
ll'oodsmilh &>11"' iHlf)k.
NF.XT ISSI Ii Tht' nexl issue
of
1\'oodN""lh wiD ~ mailed during the last
week in Nov(mbcr.

No. 77

LOOK

INSIDE

Contents
Six tip~fro)lLfellow woodll1orkers:
ITips & Techniques I. f4l
L!J Jig for Cu.tting Thill Strips. 2)
1)

Right Hand Router Rules. 8) Pipe

ClantpExtender.~) TableTopfor Roller
Stand .. 5) See-Thru. CI(l.1npil~gBlock.
6) Starting Screuu in Tight Pieces.

I f6l The
clLJ"vedtop of t It i..~troditi(Inal
TalnOOlu' Clock was nlade by glu-

[Tambour Clock
~=-="":"":,_::"",,::,,,:,,,,':'_
_

1....

Tambour Clork

___J. ~

ing Vlnteer orer kerf-ben: Afasoaite. A

tinlely tecnniquefor a tilneles8 design.

[Kerf
Bending
:..:.:.::..::....:=-:::::..==~__
L.

Illzl the
The key 10 sucu.ssful kelfbellding is
spacing between the kelfs and cut-

_J.

ting the kelfs (ollie ,-lght dept): Use Ulis

technique to creaie classic designs.

IShop Notes
_....!..

L.

-l

111611)sal0ingFaceVelleerfromPlywood.
Drawing a Partial Ellipse. :2) Re-

Kerf Bending

page 12

3) Routing1dth a Pilot Slri[). 1;) Rabbeting

withou-tC/tipout.
We ,nade the "inlaid" legs all this
I CllJ'VedFront Table 11181 table
wit/lind doing any inlay. And

the Clu-vedaprons al'e kerf-bent plywood.

A classic project, but nlodel'll techniqltes.

ITalking Shop
~~....::.!

L.

-l.

112611)Resaw
Posilioning 0 Guide Block to
on the Band Saw. 2) Storing
Small Alnonnts of

LllTltber. ;1) Using

4) Table SaU' -

Slow-Setting Glue.
Working (Illthe Left Side or Right Side of
tile Blade I

1Wood Storage
....:..:._:=:____
L.

pageJ8

11281 te-51.
TVinnel''' of the wood storage
A two-part .ystem for storing
COIl-

___j.

and plYlcood. A fold-doom plywood wail rack. Using blLllgeecords l'Ul1!bel'

and also spring poles - to keeplloll.r

IUlllber Il~atly and Seclll'eiy in place.

IFlush
Trim Bits
:...:..:=-=~=-==__

I
L.

Sources

L.:....:....=-::...:..:

I r:i'nl pilot
Two.flush tlin! router bits. n'ilk the
bearing on tiw top or the/xltt(IlIl.

__j. ~

1'Olltiriga pattern is fast anti accuraie.

11311 Hardum
re and project: SILpplies
needed forthe pl'~iects ill this iSSltll.

___J

Woodsmith

F R 0 ~1 F ELL

f-----

0 \XI

WOO

R K E R ~

ques

JIG FOR THIN STRIPS

In 11'"",1,,,,,,11 1\0 71. YOIl

Hn:dly.lo makethe Jill e.,lvr
,how .. nu-thod of <"\Iltln~ thin 10u><.'.mounra handk-un lilt' I"P
.triP'on Ult'lablt.... where the ju;.1ahead of thp ,",,,. I ,'ul Ih,
'!'trip is cut between lht" btade handle from. piece II(2x I un the
&lld tI,\~(t"ll\t' 14\1' I pc l'fer to rip band "'''. and sc'rewed 11III th.thin "lrl~""Ing a -imple ji$t pl) .....MKIba-e
that'< between Iht blad... ~d
T" u-e the jig. 'Ian b) adju,;!
f( O~. SI.~'f II I 111, ji~SUJ> in~the !OIOP "'0 it prc)J('l'IS out
pons the strip as II'~
btinro:cut,
\nd iI has lUIadJuslllble ,lop that
"",",,('$the

------------~-------

Tips & Tee

CUnlNG

0 W

WI" p:lSt the blad.,.

from the side of the jill the same

dtsrance as the desired thickness of the strip, ~exl. 10PO';
tion Ih" table sa w rence. fiN ""I
Ihejig between we blade and Ih,

rip te nee with We 'lOP tou.:hing

th,' side of the leI.'Ih. Thl'll ,tid,
the fence 0\'eI' and lock II"'hen it

l11u<,h," IIw jig. see Fig. I a.

1'0 rl" thin >trip. place the
.ttKk In be <"\IIall3inst the jig
with Clnt rorm-r m front of the
"op Then ""'h both th~jig and
Ih. ~o ck Ihroug~ Ihe blade.
[)O" JfcCoIlor
S/JM)4UBom.Olfl()

To mak .. thls jig. fi"'l CUI a

pio.... of , ph""od6'",d"and

24 ~mJ.: 'I;"t..., the jig can be

u,,d 10 CIII "rip, of differem
thir kne ... '. I added an adju'-Iabl. _1011. To do Ih". CUI a
pil"'c of ~4'-thlck hardwood I"

THI(J(NtSS

Of STt..

widt' and 6lon~. see Fig. la.

To rna lilt' ,lOP ndjus(llble,

rut .1 v"q y.idt lind ~."h)ngslot
l't:'rltl'rt'(I'Jlt

AOAlS'TAlll

"0'

oru ('ctgl' (It the stop

....

L.~,

fora scr." ....,f,g 1. 1lt<'Il.driU

a pilt'l 1\"le in the back edge of
the j'g.lIld .1(;Ich uu- ,top with a
sheet mett1 y.TtW and wa-her.

RIGHT HAND ROUTER RULES

.'1ryinll ,,, firo:urtoul which

the roulcrfrom len In nghl l1Ii'

bil i,turning, And my index fin

direction to muve m) router \\"3}'. the bit cuts ()t.emlr into the ger points in the directi~n 10
alonJ! th.,'(I~e tit a workpiece is "ODd and doesn't bounce along move the router along the edze
ofttll
(.(.l1ftl"i!lR s(, I CCUll<" up the edge To help remember
of the workpiece.
with thi. 'impl(' wa) 10 hdp rl- this. I hold JII) riIIhl hand with
The rule is. s1ighlly diffel't'nl
member which direction 10rout. the knuckles up "Ioug IllI' ,~IS!I' when u~ing a fence 10guide the
Alllu""arclhelhumbandindex
10 be routed, Th"n I I'xlI'nd my router. such as \\!hen you're ('ul
finRI'rlm onyr,yht hand
ind(!}t finger paralld III 1111','(111" ling a dado. In Ihls case. you
F'c,r in"lilnL~t....hen rouling and curl my thumb .......1,11 I
want the rotation oflbe billopull
In
Ibis.ilu.tion.
my
thulnb
in
the rOIlier against th~f~nce.
Ihe Mitt 01 " ,"orkpi,.." Yo;th a
h,lOti h..ttl roUI," il' Sbt:sIIO feed dicalt'S the dirt't.'Uon lh, roul"r
To fil!W't' Oul ....here 10 po,;

tic)" tht' ft"lllt' in n:lation to the

rouu- r, exu-nd your thumb 10
CU.I, 90 angle with your
ind,,fin~,r.....'(. Fig.:!.
In 1101.case, if my hand were
Ih(router, my thumb should be
JIIaioht the renel. And my index
finll"r Indil'ales Ih. direction 10
JII(lv,lh. ,ouicralollllthe fence.
Ror/lltq C. HIt!/lmm

.\

J/'

."1 III

I\"I,..~AJlsfmiia

1
w(HtI(JUC(

EOOI

1HUMasHOWS
ORILflfTATJON Of.
flNCI TO ROUTt.

No 77

QUICK TIP
SCOW HIEUtII

CLAMP EXTENDER
.1 rl(ln't haV<'many long pil>!'
r~,mps. Sf>when I need an "XIm
one, I U~a ,h"rt (lamp and a
T,<haJ><'"clamp extender that
hOtlksonl()thl
t

xtrnd

c. ud of aelampt

jl~
n ....h.

~:'(.. "1st. 1.

To mak, th,' extender, cut a

'1rip of \luud abuut ~. wid,'. At

IIn~ end "ul a ....

t'-dl'<p dado

across 1111',uil)

(>('(' nrawing),
Attl.eothercnd ofthe strip, driU
a series or V."di3111c,'tcr hoh ..'!.-. Itt
apart '11,.n t.~UI a ...hc.rI I.:ro!'-~

piece and bolt it 10 lholanlt pi....r

to form a "T",
To U'"' the~xt"II(k-T, hook the
"T"-end on 00t' ,id., ot the """k
'0 be <ba,po.'Il Then hook the

clamp in the dado in Ih,' I'X'

tender
Ai' the clamp i,
tightened, usc the minimum
pressure re-quired to dray, th,'
PIl"Ct>" togeth~..T(lO nl',f,,'h I'r~:,...
sure ma)' cause th e clamped
pieces to 00..-,

Con "IS fI<a' ,Sr

\'''t ''fir'd . .,flJiC arltlUf,tt:t

,OIt ADJUSTMlI

no, OIIU. ttOUS

AND AnACH .. SWITH
toll AND WING NUl

lJ}1

f'("I'l"\Ao

,..ill .. Ioose.

~I!igun"'outawa)'tornak"
tM job little ,'lbier by puttinga
litth- hut candle .. a~on tit.,
th"ad,'" point oflhc smo .. ,
Ju'\l dip the point of the sen ..
into a pool of hot caodl" W3l<.
\\ 'hen the scl't'Wj,.lifu,d oul.the
..tax .. III_un to cool, Before it
haro('O,. ",i,tthe,;cre" into the
pilot h.. le""th }uur lingers.
If yuu haven't drilk-d a pilol
hok-, push the point into the
weed and twist it toget ltstarted.
TIlCn YOUcan II't go, The wax on
tilt' point ofthc screwwlllhold it
in place temporarily until you

scrcwu in.
JltllSo.Ylldrr'>l

WORlCPlla

Pl'llll.ltlUll

TABLE TOP FOR ROLLER STAND

,d,

1 mad, lhe ..
Ron. r SLmd [y..o~ .."'~uart ...uip...of wood a....
in l\OtlCUtr,t" '\0. 70.IJut ~ince spacers to 61under the piywood.
I dun't U'" it "rry day. I mad" a (Thisway, the plyw,"'" ,up .... t,
covertor chi." rl)II('r~that con- on tbe Roller 'iland', ,..,,1., nllt
v.'n, tht- ,tand into a table, sec on the roil",..., -e'C Fill, I..,)
J:jjil. 1. (r:,l,'(,,"~ ""It.' T}'I! X({."l~
To keep the top firmly in
idr (,('III{/ IN lI~f'(1I" (:l)1'l_'r a place, install two short pins (~~"
tnblr 1111II1llt ''r/u/~r ",hlf'.J
To nlnkt'lh(('flvc.'r. (,"ut a piece
"r plywood lar~e enouzb 10 fit
o'er th,' roll,',_ and the roller
rai) ...(nune i...
21'" x :t!') bc-ncut

dowels) in each or till' 'l~ll"'''''

Then drill hole, in the nails of till'
Roller Stand ror the pin<.
.lIhutll. 1\'"",/
Gm Hllfa "4 ~\', It /1" til/lith '"

0,
"" TWOOO fOP

.1

r J')1nlC to drive 3 screw in a

tiRllt pla{'" <an be a real chalI,'nll" - ~sped3l1y when it
comes to K('tling' the screw
started. Just when I get th~
sl"r('wdriver aligned in th,'
scrvw ,Iut and "'art to drive it.

SPACU $1'R['

r-

,
OWl DOWf&.
"NS 'NrO
SPAC'.

StIllIP'

SEET"RU CLAMPING BLOCK

When
gluing
suips of inlay, such

asmireredccrners.I
want to see under
the CbalPS
make
sure the strips don't
<hin as I tighten the
dumps. So I
a
piece or clear 1/.-"
l~exiJ:lasas a clampus. 1'W(j()lA$
inll block. see ~Ig.I
TOClAM. INlAY
To do this, I plac..
',' PUXtGVoS
ON WOIUCPIta
th .. inJar strip III
po'\uon on the wof"kpil'ce and
SEND IN YOU. TIPS
prI";"it into the glue, Then pbc,'
Ityou would like!o sharea
a pie1:e oi Plexigla, o'..r il and
lip or id<~ JU'I 'eod it 10
clampillotheworlqJit'Ce 0"",
1I0odo.' ,TopsandTed..
tb.. clamps are tighl. I ch,'t'k to
Dlqu~ 2200 Grand A,,,,_.
be su'" theinb)' hasn'l OIO'liI,
Ilcs M'JUlt'S.Iowa50312.
:\ot(': This technique al,o
\\' ,,'n p;cy (uponpubb
work, well when doing martiun) $15 to "100, dt.-pending
qUl'1IJ and patching venetr I
On the publi,n,-d leng'th of
ha,co'l bad problems with the
the lip, i'1<'&:i<' include an ex
glue sticking to the Pkxigla,
pl,,,,,,UI)n and a photo or

,0

u."

~:_~~;::::::======.::::::=~

Fro"""Plmllk

AOUU

SrI/ail "'"II m.lll,

\XI" ..xl-mlth

"ot"

<kelCh ("('11 dtawallt'wooe),

WEEKEND

PROJECT

our Clock
The double curve gives this clock a classic, graceful shape.
Building it involves a couple of techniques you rna)' not have used
before - ke7f bending and routing shapes with a template.

t first glance this Tambour Clock appears to be bend around the dooble-curve very easily. Instead, Ikerf
made from a solid block of walnut. BUI up close bent a piece of
Masonite for the top. then covered
you notice thai only the base is solid wood. \\'beo you this with a piece of veneer resawn from plywood, (J3()th
open the door on the back and look inside. you sec thai techniques are covered in this issue.)
the front and back of Ih.. case are plywood. And the top
Another challenge with this clock was cutting the
curved plywood front and back pieces to ideoUcal shape.
look$like plywood, bUI on the inside it's Masonite.
Wby all the different materials 10 make a dock that There's a simple trick [or this,ll involves culling me
looks like a solid piece or wood? COuJdn'lyou jusl make pans to rough shape first. then routing them with the use
of a template and a flush trim bil. (S'*' page 30).
il OUIof a solid block?
You could, and il" ould probably be a more straight
ctocx WORMS & Krr. Before building the clock. ii's
forw-dJ'dway 10 make the clock. But an arch-topped case besuo have the clock movement in hand. There are two
made from solid wood juS! wouldn't be as attractive, clock movements mal can be used. One is a quartz
mostly because there'd be a lot of end grain exposed. (battery-powered) movement, The other is a keywind
End grain mixed with Wee grain looks like Morse code (mechanical) brass movement with gong. Wood$nti4lt
- a series or lines interrupted by a bunch of dots.
Proj'ec( SlIpp/iea is o[enog both movements. along
TECHMQUES. Making the clock mostly from plywood with the clock face and hands, and kits for the plywood
presents several challenges, first. ." plywood doesn't and solid pieces. (see Sources on page 31).

V.

Woodsmith

No,77

MATERIALS
"CoseFrootO)
a Case BocI< (I)

~ 7'>'1.x17'1.

'\I,.7~ 171'.

TOP VENEER

C flier 8Iocl.> (2) ~ 2';.z d

D Case TopO)
3 ox 24 (llgh)
E End veooer(2) .4 x~. (II!;t1)
f TopVeneeI)
G Bose(1)

.4 24(11!;t1)

H feet(2)

",.1'1 41'<
"' 6'~.5

I DOOf(1)

"

'h.41?181,
CASfTOP

SUPPLIES
CASf FRONT

;;-

~. \Ii eOtOCls(5O)

16.1~ fh Wooclsc~(8)

"

FIl1fR BLOCK
@

I x I'Brosstinge$(2)
Broa doOr pull
8Ule1 eeren
'4 x \?'1lI\ WOOdlCfOW
Clocltmoverr'lent

END
VENEER

C1oc, Ioce hOnd$ and bezel

General frlIIIles' SeaIocei Seeler
Get>et", FW:lho$ Ro'/OI ~
(Sotll')

!CASE BACK

THE TEMPLATE

A V."-t!lick letllplult j, used 10$h3P<'the

Irontand back 01the dock. see TerupiMI'
[liamun b<-Iow. SIRC~thfo case front and
bad< arc TIl<' same sIu-. you can use Ih"
I~mpbte 10rul bolh pi..,~,.The only
dilkn:nce I>theopcnUlg In IMGa:;e back.
To rna." the template, begin ..ith a
PI""" of thin plywood or Ma<nnite ~.
wide and 17V.' 10nll Ul;I.a compes to
draw the 311:$ as 'hOWR. To <'Omplet<lthe
"'mpl.",_ cut on th~ WI:,!" side of the lil'"
for the arched lOPand for the deer ope
i~.
Then sand or fi~Ill!' ares smooth.
:'\".....to u-e the t""'pIate.1ay it on the
pi)"" ood workpiece and dra" a line

BASE

OVERAll DIMENSIONS:

8S 16"H

1814"W

FOOT

412"0

around the edge of the template. II

below. '\11<'1'this. roul(lt<ut out

.ide the line. Then auech the tcmplatt'lO
the blank and rout around the edge with a
nush trim bIt in th~ ,,'U(lr. rden') !)IIJlell.
drawing

TEMPLATE DIAGRAM
NOff:
CUT 1t.MPtATt 'ROM'

. THICK MASONJTt 01 "- YWOOO

--~l-

CASf

BACK

WAST(

CASE

FRONT

6~.

WArn

HOTlGUlN
....

No. 77

CTION

, PlICiS7'.-

a 11

~~~~~-L

__~

_t_

~~

....
7

CASE FRONT AND BACK

This whole dock is based on a doublecurved shape (or the from, back. and lOJl.
And that shape begins wilh a template.
n:'fPLATE.The idea isto make. template
as a l,'lIide 51,) you can use a router (0 cut the
(ronl and bark pieces 10exact shape.
J began making the template by drav.ing
the curved shape on a piece of V."-thick M..
sonite, (l<c(erlOThe Template and the Ternplaw Iliawrun on page 1. The diagram ineludes the outline of the double-curved
shape. and also the shape of the opening for
the back door.)
Mtcrlheoutlinc isd rawn.cut Ihe:I<:mplalc
10shape slightly oversize with asabre sawor
band saw. Also rough-cutout the opening for
the back door.
No w, wry can'fully fir Or sand up to the
pendl lines to produce a smooth. curved
shape. (Youwant the template-as perfect as
you can gl't ill

a.

3
NOTE:

l'IMPO.... y

SP"CIR lS SA.M{

WlOtlf AS
RUUalOC.IC;

fRONT AND BACK

The next stepis to CUllWOblankso( plywood
for the case from (AJand case back (B).page 7. Also cut one piece of plywood (411'2"
x 25W') for the lop and end veneer strips.
(Moreon thescstnpslater.) Note.Tcgerthe
~I color match. cut all three blanks (rom
the same piece of plywood.
To make Ihe case fronl (Al and case
back (B). fir>! draw the shape of the template entu both plywood blanks (again, reter
todrawingonpage 7).Thencul the front and
back to (OulI'hshape. I,.." outside the pencil
line /)01'" cut out the door opening yet,
rusn TRI" S\lO<mI, Ralherthan trying
to me and sand these pieces to shape, you
can use the template with a muter table and
a flush lrim bit 10j!et Il,e exact shape,

ROUIING

a.
1 ..

','

Of(P

RABBU

000.

0""""'"

R.U&rr 'NSf 0' cuaVfD

fOGfS ONLY

Anach the template 10 one of the blanks

using double-sided carpel tape. see Fig. L

Then mount a nush trim bil in the router
table. and rout around the prom. of the
shape. see Fig. la. 00 this on bolh the case
front and case back.

1)(l()ROPESING. On thepiece for tile back.

01>0rough cut the opening for the door. see
Fig. 1.Then use the template and flush trim
bit again to smooth the opening to shape.

RABBE:rEDGES.1l1('nexisteplsto

provide

a way to mount the case top. (The case lOpis

a piece of \!4"thick Masonite that's covered

1/4n

To get a standard ~.-d(!eprabbeting bit 10

r;ut a V~"-<Ieeprabbet, lmade a silll!l1e jigfor
the (Ou~rtable, The Ji,gis j~lita $!rip Of Ma'
sonJte'Cut l'4" wide. '(ben 3 Vl"..,ia. hole is
drilled neareneend. see rIg. A. below.
Drill the holv centered on \he "idlh oflhe
strip, leaving 1;1<' On each side llf ih" hole,
N.9w rv~ndolrth. end ortlleMP so there'"

also 3 \!\""idc band On lite end oCtIle slrip.

":Ill usc thejig. moUIII31\41" rabM:ingblt!n
the router table and adjust)t to lhed~red
'It<;igltt, Th~llposition the jigcNerthe bit~nd
press the hole onlO Ille bt>ating. ('{<>U'W!
fccUvely enlarged the bearing.) l\(lW clamp
thl' "tht'!" t'tld of tbe jig to the router table
fence and rUt" 1l1eV." rabbt't; see 1">&. B

'*

SECOND!

... en

Woodsmttb

with veneer.)
I used a rabbeting bit on the router table
to cut a V."-deep rabbet along the curved
edgcof each piece. see Fig.3. The only problem with this procedure is th"t most rabbeting bits cut a %.-deep rabbet. not Vi'.
YOUL...onbuy. special rabbet bit that has a
pilot bearing <il.ed 10cui 3 V4"-<leeprabbet.
see Fig. 2a. Or, you can replace the 1~lot
bearing on regular rabbet bit with a lanrer
bearing. (see Sources, pag(31). Or. you can
use. standard ~." bit and bearing' with the
jill' shown in the boxat ten,
CASE ENO:;' After rabbeting the edges, tile
next slep is to cut two filler blocks (C) 10fit
between the case front and back. set' Fig. 3.
These blocks hold the front and back 10gether. and provide a surface 10 mount the
veneer on tile end of the case.
,lSSlillBl. CASE.Now the case front and
back can be assembled as a unit. witll the
finer blocks glued between them. see Fog.3.
(I also used a temporary spacerwhiJe clamping the front and back to the filler blocks.)

No. 77

AnACHING

THE CURVED TOP

TIle ru",,-d 1"1'of Ille clock has two pans: a

k"r(.b(>nlpi<,, .. r ~ta....,nilethal serves a< a

CASE TOP

o:l...._

ba-e rttr a ...trip of Vl"lk'ff.

TOI'. '11)1Nk~ the bent top (D). begin bl
ripping3 striporh' Masonite to width lofil

C'UT SHOUlD lIAvt

1CIRf$ ARt
O('(P

.a,."

11....

between III<' rabbt'l' 00 the case front and

back. HIe strip should be .buuI24"lol1R.
IOiIU' (1"Th. Ic gel the Masonite 10 curve
around Ih~ ~hajlC'()flh~ fronland bark, J cut

seric, or kerfs on this piece. see Fig. 43.

(For more on kerf bending. see page 12.)
ATI \{ II rn C<\.~~Afler this

piece is kerfed,

il coo b- mounted imo ihe rabbets in !h('

C3'<' Fi~1 '!'rt'dd a bead or glue in the rabbets.Then "" k Ih" ""01 lapin place.,;pacing
the brads "tong Ih,' curve, """ rig. -tb.
"'\''') "I(xml. \\0"0 the lOPis attached,
-.and il -o I"" ""Un' b smooth.and so !h,'
\tasnmlr and pl)...ood are Hush.see F'l$lS.
You cfluld use a piettol ik'xible
',nr. r lu''U''t'r the lOPand encl.s, Bul (or the
"",I color match '" ilh the ""<I o(th e
I
,Iinod., strip .. Ive nevr off the same plywood
u-ed [or Ih"'"a" fronl/back. (This is easler

RWII

ILOCIC

''''.fN.

C'."'.

than il,;f.und, .... ,' Shop Nut<"5onpage 16.)

\11\{1I\h~H'R.To

TOPWNEU

SANO M,ASONm
ANDPlYWOOO

AJOOlYlWO

THIN (OAT$
OFCC)NTACT

'LUSH

attach the veneer.

SECONJ),
GlUlON

ct~(NT'O

firsl CuI Iwo end veneer strips (E). and

glut: IllI'l1I10Itl\' ends of the case (with conWt'l<"111<'01) ...-,. Joilt. G.NUH:that the grain
run ...r rl '(,fllill on 111C~'strips.
Then IIlu, outhe tol) veneer (1').slarting
.11 1111' "'I' c.f 11't- arrh and working down thc"
flared sid," ,"u" trim the sidl" and ends
Oush ",Ih Ihe '''". wnh a utilily Imi'e, and
IiIIhlly",nd all the ed~,,

BOTH

SUI'''CIS

~m"".

raoMlNDSOJ
_YUillJ.

J;""~-fiRST:

GlUf ON

om".,....

THE BASE
The d..ubk ....
'U"ed ca......j, muunledloa~,

thick hdnd" eod b.1" '. 111<base b>CreW,-d 10

Ih,' ,-a", In,", the bottom, for the best "I>'
pt'ardn,'(' 1 trit'd to match the color 01 the

'."

CLOCK
BASE

fa

bast' In Ih,' color .. I!ht' case from,

1111'C)'1ZE.To make the duck base (G)
flr-t cui a ,.i,",c 01solid wood to finished size
..;,0 it"'~II' Ic)ngcr and Y.!" wider than the bot-

./

s'.-

......

:.....,_

tom of Illt ,('hx' k c'".aSot". see l-;"jg 7.

HOIJU)(.II. :-:e ,1. 10ll;"e the clock a more

f).lll J'1'.
COUHTtR SUNK

lilli,hl'il apl"~;trunf.-e.1muted a Romanog~

around II", lrunl and ends (bul nOI the back)
,,(th,'

d",..k ba.,..: "'lh. ~'

..

'-

ROMAN
00"

SKAHKHOUS

Ruman ogCt.' bit.

GlUl'OOT
flUSH AT IACt(

,00T IS 'NSIT ~..- 'ItOM

fRONT AND SlOt: Of'

lAS( -

""'-'t.I'I~.!t
f~l".
Ihecl ..ck ba.se rt'5l~onapairof(eel
(II). "',. FiR I< Cilue Ihe,.. in pIact- 10 th,
butl"m oltt., 1>;,..... in...Uing them \ t' lrom

a.

0It1U ......

...

.... OfHOU

Ih.. "d ... nd fnml bUIfiu<hI"We backed~t'

..,..1'"1/1 ~

\TTUIlBA.'t:m c.~t:. \\oen the leet are

al""h,d. th, ba''_' <'an "" screwed w the

rase 1'odolh". ft~tdriUcounlersunkshank

hoi", 11110
Ihe bottom "I Ihe base. s.,e ~ig.
'j'
l1",,,.I'II1,,,'l'1lnl), clamplh .. b."" 10theeas.'
and drill "illIl hnlcs inlo th~ca~ using the
~hAnk hnlc, a, Kuid"". lW<'Fig. 93. Now
",'I'('W Iltl' b~""lo Ulecase.

l'<".77

OGEE

Non:
lIAS( AHO CASl

UI 'lUSH ATlACk

CASt IS INsn AN (OU"l

DISTA-He'ON 'JON'

ANO $10($

ACCESS DOOR
In order tohave eccessto theckckworks.J

added a door III ch" back of thr case, The

opening in the back of the case has already
been CUllO shape. So now the door hasto be
cuLto fit.
CUTTO SIZE. To make the door (I). first
measure the sire of the door opening. Then
cur a blank II.!' (ong," than the opening is
wid". and V~"tr/(ll'r than the opening is taU,
see Fig. 10.11lis will orient the grain of the
door horizontally - the same direction as
the case back. This size also aJJows fur a lip
on the sides and top of the door onere's no
lip on the bottom <'<lge.)
lAl' our AAC.Afterthe door blank iscutto
size. the next step is to layout the an: on the
lOP of the door, see rig. 10. Rough cut this
an: to shape with a sabre saw or band saw.
and then file orsand it smooth.
RABBET.To prevenl the door from falling
into the case. I added a lip around the edge
This lip is funned by routing a ." rabbet
around thi>sidt-s and top on the inside face
of the door. see Fig. lOa. Note: Drill Yrabbet
the bouom edge.
RQL'NDOVEREDGES.To soften the outside
edges of the door. I sanded a slis.~llroundover around
sides and lOp.see Fig. lOa.
Note: Do" '(round over till' bottom edge. or
any of the inside edges.
DOORc.\TCIL Now. to keep the door (rom
dropping open. r Installed a bullet catch at
the top ohhedoor. First, drill a hole into the
top of the door. centered across tbe width of
the door, see rig. I), Then lap the bullet
catch into the hole.

me

11

10

NOTE:

DOOR

00t'''r IIOIIT
ON SOTTOM
Of'DOOR

uaan

<!{

SAND SOfT R<)UNOoOvtlt

','
.........

ON SJDfS ANO TOP

/)-:::~~U
__
O~N~U~~'~_~~~.~~
.".

.'

oooa

2a~.

RA~IN
2 PASSES

Next, you have to add a screw in the lOP

edge of the door opening to act as a trap for
the bullet catch. see rig, 12
DOOR Pllu.. Before installing the door
hinges. screw the door pull to the door. see
Fig. 12. (You1l need il to g~llhe door open
when testing the hinlles.)
mxcr "ORllSES. To attach the door. I
used a dado blade \0 CUt moruses across the
bottom edge ofthe door for the door hinges,
see Fig. 13. Seith. dado blade to the same
heighl as the diameter of the barrel of the
hinge.This way, both leaves of the hinge are
mortised inlo the door - nol inte the dock
base, see Fig. 14a.

ATtAClI DOOR. \\C,th the hinge mortises

cut. the hinges can be screwed to the door.
Note: The barrel or .ach hinge should be

attached nush 10 theoinsidefaeeofthedcor,

see Fig. 14. \\'Ith One leal of each hinge al-

tached to the door. screw the other leal to

the base (G).se'" Fig. 14a.
.\PPI.YtlMSII.ll's casicSltoapply the finish 10 the clock before inslalting the clock
works For my clock. I wiped on a coat of
Gencrnl Finishes' Sealaeell and two coats of
Generalflnishes' Royal Finish (satin). Note:
If you plan 10 add the optional trim pieces
explained on the opposite page, glue them
on IwJor~fini.hing.

14

12

a.

000It

UASS WOOO$C!llW

..

INC)Tt: US( ClAMP

TO S1'tA.OY 000It
WHILE DRIWNG

'

'.1"u.us,
HlNaI ,

\,

CASt,AR

I!;)

eRASS
DOORPUU

13
a.

SECOIIIP:
IEP05moN FNCi AND
MAKf UCOftfJ) PASS
TO CClMPI.ITt MOltlSI

IfNCHVlSI

<,"

10

NOTE;

a.ctUH<J.

IOAJtO.
KHPS HlNGlS fWSH
TO 04J1'$H)( FACE
Of DOOR

No. 77

CLOCK WORKS

OptiONAL 'RIM

1110case is designed to hold two difkn'nt

kind. 01 clock work, - ,itlll'r a bathry
nperated quartzrnovement (shown here), or
3 br." keyv.'ind movement (l'I'" SQtll'C(",
pair" :11).There's also a dial with a hlllgcd
gt.1'-S ""l<'I3Itlch,-d to LIlt'trout ,,(th,' dock.
~ot~: The dil't'C'tionsbt low an-for in..w.
ling Iht, quartz clock movement flire<1I01l'
for In-wting the k.-ywind rouV,'Dt.'1lt and
I:"ng an- induded with th. clock kit,
t"T,U" wORKS" ntu, 1'0 install the
dOl'k works, Iin.t locat, th, centerpoant 01
tIll' <'3'" In>nt and dnll a VI h.,1e 81th;' point
[onh,shaftofth .. movement (that hold,lIw
hands) -ee Fig. IS. -Iben place the movement In,id. the case with till' ,h;ajl protrod
inlllhmugh this hole,
Nuw ,Iide the clock dial onto th,' fmnt of
th" ,,,-,,,'. ave"!'the hand ,Jaaft. Roth th, dial
and theworicsart: hdd tcthecase b~ thfl'ad.
iog Ill"mounting wa<ber and nut unto th~
shaft frum the front
'\II uw. Before you complelely IlI:ht, n
the mounting' OUl. adju,t the ,,."Illon Ilf the
dial un the front case 'I" there', an ,-qual
'pan: around the sides and tup "'Ih,' dial.

Also, 10 .. ake sure thl' dial " oriented

l)rt)pcrly. place a squan- all lh,' clock 1l;1'"
anti lint up the 12...00 and 6:00 milrkln.l~ nn
tl1<'dial. ;\0" tighten th~ mountinj( nut, and
tock the dial in p~ ",th ,,,,all bra', nails.
IL\~I_I!,\.'0 BF.ZEI..\\ltb tllt d,a) naib-d ill
pl.llre, 'lip the hour and mmure hands onto
the ,bait. Tben S<."CIJrt' thl' hand, to the ,haft
..,th the hand nul. f'1II3!I) IlIstallth, battery
"nd ad)u,t the clock 10 th......'rr ec1 bnae

lS

CROSS SECTION
"L

0':'

'~-1""....

~.

...,.,.,.....

I'"""'"' QUUTZ:ClOO<

,;

J-

I~i

(:~,.

- ..

J.~.
HOlt

ow.

C)tA$S

l,_

SHAfT

1/

IUD.

ONT

j~

lL_

.'

Ilhoughl it would ht' mce 10add

two decorative trim pieces 10
the ironl of the d",'~_All thai's
involved is ,,,ning 1"'0 triangular pR'(",.lrom a ronltaSling (or
complementary) piece 01
veneer;

Sincem) rlock~,...sW1lIIU! plywood.

I nude the trim

pieces out ofwalnut bur! _r.

set' Soarees, p.1gt' 31 If the bur!
veneer ,. mounted loa tlun base
piece, it looks thicker and
stands out a lilli, more'
'I1U'I IIIA.'KS. 10 make the
base pieces lor th, veneer.stan
by culling IW(I r,'clan..nalar

OPTIONAL FRONT TRtM PATTtRN

pI'e of ~-Ihkk
hard .. ood, S( e Ilg. Z. (I cut

the-e from sc-r.p Idl ov.'f frorn

the dock base.)
Now cut twoJl'C(:cs f Vl!l!eer
the -ame sue as the hatdlOOOd
pieces. and gllK a piece "I veeeerto each pi.'(~ 01h.rdwood.

l' .-

-....---

DRA" t',\m-IIS. Two Ihings

rnak.' tbe trim pire'" look good
on th,' front "I th" dock_ FiN,
th. t'UIV-s on lh,' inm match
the C'UlVt"$ On lht case

0>,'

blanksfrom.

OlY' V(H!'.

10 .... OWOOO lASE

(i1)nt.

A1~. Il' SP3C1IlR

betwt'ell the
tnm PIC("(" IIlId bczcl" equal to
the spaang be~
tbe trim
and thecurved cd<.oe01the case,
To gel th" pil'('t"S the proper
shape and sUe. iint dr"" a pattern on a Plf'" of cardboard
using Ih,' radii ~hown in t'ig. 1.
n T TO .,ft\I'f. AIII'1' rulting
th~~ardhoar" 1",1I"rn to siZl!.
drawanouUi,wurlh, 1.. 11~I1\On
each or lin' Inm blanks. 1be1I
CUI out tht trtanl:\llar trim with
th" band saw. oee F,g, 3.

a HARDWOOD

lASE
(VI OUT,..,IM"K'~
THlH SANOloolS
SMOOfH

~,-nIl~'-'
t"

Alter rutting
the PlCttS 10 r;Iupe I san<Ied a
bevd on aD thr\.., l-dgc. to htlp

blend th.. trim IOto Ihl.' clock

Wee, All L1I1, involvesis '-lIlW
th" .Jg ... ""th "hon k>nlllh01
d~el wnlppt'd wIth ~nclp"p<r .
S(,'C fig. ~
API'!.' Tn CA.'''' r" get the
trim pit:<'cs aligned properly.
fiM temponuily p(>SItion thrm
on the cas< lronL Then draw a
light pencil relerence marl.<
around t'3Ch~ ..
)(owawJy gltl('IO rru, bai.'k of
the trim pieces an,1 press them
in pbce with Icmd pn 'lIre lor
about a manut~. using th~ marks

CHAM.fER
AU (001.1 0' '.IM PI(eli
wrrH SANDINQ srtcK

t~tin.. tit. m up 1'f(01)l'rly,

!'",77

"

TECHNiQUE

WOODWORKING

Kerf Bending
O

humidity

10 bend
wood into a gentle curve,
I think kerf bending is the
easiest, It doesn't usc "l)tocial
equipmem as steam lx'nding
does, or a lot 01 forms and
clarupsaswitb benrlamlnations.
n's just a mailer of curling a
series of grooves (kerfs) 10
relieve the back of the curve,
This te<:hniqu('has been used
in general construction 10bend
plywood around cabinets or
solid wood around arched windows. BUIit can also be used in
furuitur e. The Curved Front
Table apron (page 18) and the
top oftheTambour Clock <PaRe
6) are a couple of examples,

f an the ways

But on a kerf.benl

piece.the ribs support the thin-

ner wood and prevent warping.

see J-ig, 2. Note: A kerfed piece
can be fragile until it's glued in
place. Don 'I giv~ in 10the temptation 10see how farit will bend,
(l've done thaI and brokenmore
than one kerfed plece.)
QUESnON: f/k"'fbelldmg
if{ sa MSy. II'h!1 UYJul,J a"YOllt
81eam bCI!(/ t!tick $trlps

or

Iaminat U,i'l $fnp~!

The main reason is appearance.

If you kerf bend. th~ kerfs that

are cut in the edge and back of
the wood arc visible,
Kerf-bent pieces also require

QUESTION: Hou: (IT" kerfe

IlJif'djor IXlI/dillY

".,,,,It

A kerf is just 3 stet, When you cut kerfs for

bending. you don't cut all the way through
the woodc--justpart of the way. tfyou make
a series of th("iI' deep kerfs side-by-side the
wood becomesflexible. and can be bent in a
curve. see photo.
\\'baLyour. doing is relieving one face of
the workpiece so you can bend it, The disWI"" between the kerfs, their depth. and the
wood you choose will dctcrmlnc the flexibililyo(the stock and the radiusofthe bend.

dexing. Thiscan be as simple as a penciltine

or just a brad or nail driven into an auxiliary
renee (see poge 15 for more on this)
kerf'. I'm (mill

Q~"'ON:

,1ft"1' rll/(;"O off fllox<

/tJl ,,';111 a tbi piec of

14.;ood.\V()ul(il'"

it

pil'rR O/'IMlI!-I"'(llld

bt

rnsirr

IWlld

(0 )u.~tliSP

(}

it?

1110ugh veneer will bend ea sily, il won't be

as <lmng as kerf-bent wood. This is because
the thin "web" that remains after the kerfs
are cut is supported b)' the "ribs" left beQUESTION: Do flu' kt~f.'''''~'''o
IH'CO'"
ltiSIl!1ll1y 8'J><lccri.
ant! if RO. 11'<1 ~ tim' tak tween the kerfs. see Ijg. 1.
Xf)'111- kind OJ'8,,. (';'11 jiy)()r IllU s II' 1
veneer. on the other hand. could <a$iiy
buckle and break jf it'~nOI supported.
One ofthe nice things abou; kerf bending is (Veneer can be wrapped around a solid
that Ihe spaCing between the kerfs doesn't piece that's cut 10 a curve. or even a piece
!ta!'e to be ~X.1CLThe piece will still bend, that's been kerf-bent, sec p3g(' 9,)
A piece nf unsupported veneer is also
But if you want the curve to be as uniform as
possible, you should use some rorm of in- likely 10warp (usually cup) wiLh changes in

1
KERf
\

:;-

L2

QllESTION: But ",""1 if Iii, ""rkpiece

/'mk.rfbelldillll

i$ll'l n/la('hrdlo~tI!Jlype

of .uppurt?

I. iuere ally ",all I rnll

s!I'<'1lgthell lilA! kcrfedpi<'Ct?
Oncwayto SDT:ngthcnthe kerfed piece, is 10

simply apply glue insidr the kerfs while

bending the piece 10shape. I usc hot-melt

glue 10do this.
There's another method that both
strengthens and hide. the kerfs. \'~Ih tile
piece held in its curved position. glue a
!<lightlyoversize thin veneerorplastic laminate 10 the kerfed side. see Fig. 3, Then
when the glue dries, trim the laminate flush
with tile edges of the workpiece,

IUaS STRfNG1KtN

RIB

WORKPItcE AND

PRfVfHT WARP

,_."2 7. ...

-: .:-,~", -~

Ill8S GIVIi SfR[HGfH

TOTHtNWm

oflhe clock ""PllOrt Ih, curved top and aJ$I>

hide the kerfs.

.--

a support piece. This piece adds

to the-strength of the bentpiece
and is usually 3 pan of the projcct, It may even hide-the kerfs.On the Tambour Clock. for example. the from and back

WEB

r' ."'_

OlUEvtNtfR
SUPPORt' 8lO(.I( _/

WOt-..Ismu h

OR lAM'NATt

TO KlRftD 5)01""'--

No. 77

KERFING DIFFERENT MATERIALS

In addition 10kerf spacing and depth. the
material you choose also affects how tight a
radius you can bend and Slillgel a smooth
surface. Mostrnaterialsused inthe shopcan
bekerf bent.And withsome materials (such
as plywood and particleboard). umaybe the
mll way 1(, bend them successfully.

Since lr's flexible 10begin with. Masonile

bendseasilywhen it'skerfed. Particleboard.

on the other hand. doesn't kerf bend as well.

It's made with larger. more loosely compressed particles and can break easily when
stressed - especially if Ih~ particleboard
surface is scored (such as when kerfing).
The composites do haw another advanSOUDWOOD
lage over solid stock and plywood. Th e'Y
As you mighl expect, the solid wood. that bend beuer in both directions, Since there's
bend the best using steam or Ihin lamina- no dominanl grain 10 split along. you can
lion, are also the best choice for kerf bend- bend the piece so the kerfs close in or open
ing. Woods$Ud\ as oak. walnut, mahogany. up. This mean. you can actually fonn an Scurve, <_ Fig. 6 and the Tambour Cleek).
and ash arc Oc){iblcand bend well.
Whatever Iype of wood is used. choose
ICE DE"'"
pieces for bending with grain that runs in a
QUESTION: N(lU' tllat rv seiectJ!d tne
fairly straight line. see photo CAl. Highly
figured woods which have unpredictable ",akri!ll I -a>l/ to bend. IIowdrep.l!ollld I
,.,tlthe kerfs?
grain patterns often break as they're bent,
Fortunately there are some simple rules
and guidelines ior kerf depth. Generally .the
deeper the kerf ls cui. the tighlcrthe radius
you can bend. Al the same time, the deeper
To minimize breakage. it's best 10 cut ~w the kerf is cut. the weaker the webs will be.
kerfs acl'O&< the grain, see FiJI.. 1. Then the What you want to do is cut the kerf as deep
fibers of the wood will bold ~\Cwhole piece as possible without weakening the wood.
together as they wrap around the curve. II
4
KRFED SOUD WOOD
you cut the kerfs ",il/. the grain. !hI' piece
may break along the grain tines as it's bent.
QUE~'TI0N: Does .1 matter luu the
kfr[..'( u re ()r1tntled itt rr/at;())l I,) tbe dirertim, 'if th" groin?

PLYWOOD
Hardwood plywood with softer Inner corn.
bends easier than softwood (fir) plywood.
There are lWO reasons (or this.
I~rsl. the [uce veneer on softwood plywood is thicker than that used on hardwood
plywood, see photo (B). And these thicker
veneers aren't as flexible as the thin ones.
Second. many hardwood plywoods use
lauan for some inner plies, sec photo <C).
Lauan (also called Phdlipine Mahogany) is
more Oexiblr than the fir plies used in 010"1
sottwood plyWoodSand bends easier,

For solid woods.this means leaving a web

that's about an I<I<"-thick,
see photo CA).For
plywood, the general rule is 10 cut deep
enough $0 you jusl barely .. cere the second
ply (the layer under ~lC(ace veneer). see
photo (C). And for Masonite, the kerf depth
should be about one-half (or a little more) of
the thickness offhe material. see photo (0).

'Act

KERf ED PLYWOOD

Pl. Y KEEPS

FRO,.

S(COND PiT

CRACKlNG
If KEltFS AJtt_ CUT

If'KljtfS AREan
THE SAME DIUcnON

ACROSS GRAIN,
WOOO IS FUXrau

A$ GRAIN IN S(CONO
Pl.Y S(COND PlY
WIll. fUX fASlLY
fAa PLY-

SECOND PLY

QUESll0N: Sho,dd!he ke".fsa(sobecu/

0(1'Oi<8 thefurr.gm;"

~"ply,"o()d?
If K"IRFS ~ a.rr
ACRoSS THE GRAIN
IN S(CONO Pt.Y,
SECOND PLY WON'" a

IfX[RfS ARECUT

Yes, but for differenl rea sons. II bas to do

with the ply that liest"",ea tlilhe face veneer,
see Fig. 5. NI('r plywood is kerfed, the web
Ibnl remains consist. of the thicker second
ply and tlw thin face veneer. see photo (C).
II plywood is kerfed a<TOS~the face grain.
kerf USllaUy.cUllingwilh thegrainweakens
the grain of Ihe second ply runs
the
wood. BUI with plywood. Ihe lace veneer
holds iLtogether (and allows It to Oex).

"'i",

COMPOsms
Composites such as particleboard and hard.
board (Masonite is one common brand
name) have an advantage over both solid
wood and plywood-there'~n!) grain direction LO worry about. see photo (0).

No. 77

wru.l"Hi CllAlN,

WOOl) CAN laEAK

WHlNltNT

vEar ruXIIl

SC:URVES

~~~~~~~~~Jilj[~~~~~r~~tcO
GEM !NWAIlD

ARSf pt.,
PStlY(NTS S(CONO
PLT "'OM <RACKtNO

IN OUTWAlID

.-l1li'1;

MASON:ITDOESN'T HAW

A OOMlNANT GRAJN..
SO"

\V()l"hm 1rh

CAN "IND 10TH WAYS

13

plywood mal' be 1t.!2"lhickor less, irs very

easy 10 sand right through the face veneer.
see fig. 8. So sand cautiously - cltecking

SANDING

If you spac e the kerfs (1)gether closely, you may still ex' re!l'Jlarly to see ifthe lIats have disappeared.
And again. don't use power sanders. They
perienee llats 10 some degree even if you can't 5(:'(' them. But tht'} can remove too much wood. 100 quickly.
maybecomevisible when you appl)'a finish.
FtNlSKlHG
QUES1l0N:

In, at'. the b,,1 Irll!1 10

QUESTION: 1I7urlnhoutfinu."illgkeq.
~'nt pieces? A,."Uwrt allY trick 10 that!

80 nd a way 1/"flat Irqm n ...nrk}l'~(1~

KERF SPACING
The spacing between kerfs (or the width of
the ribs) not onl)' wiD affe<.1the maximum

I usc a hardwood sanding block (nula power

sander). Take smooth, gradual strokes iol
radius that )"OU can bend, but aIM) hov" loy"ng the contour. and con,WlUy chock
~"'QOththe bent piece will look. The reason the .urfareoflhe work. Stop sanding a. soon
kerf spacing is linked to the smoothness of as all Ihe flats di;;appear- don't o"prsann.lf
the bend has 10 do with a problem that's you do. you may loose theunilormcurvc that
unique 10 kerfbending called "f1al~". see you've worked hard 10 create. And. if you
photo above,
oversand, you could weaken th e web or even
sand alltheway thn>u,Rhit.
QUESTION: II'/I.otMafla/.ond tunera
"'ben S'lI1dillj(plywood, there's another
J ')"~. ""u IZ~I/lis prnbrrnl?
problem. Sinee race veneers on hardwood
Flats are caused by the difference in flex;'
bility between Ill. thick rib. and the thin
webs.Asthewoed is bent around a form. the
webs are flexible and will bend in an auernpt
10 follow II", curve, But the ribs arc much
more rigidand WOn'l bend.Thiscreatesa

making the ribs so narrow that they1l crack

and break off.
QUESTION: 11'llnti.
0" ~~I Apnrillg In
Ar(

1.7;-r--------------~:;::-------:==:-:===:::::;::\~
MAX. SPACING fOR 1.1tA!>.WRV.

KERfSPACING

','

flat

surface on the face 01the curved piece.

Small OaLSC3n be easily removed by sanding. BUlthe wider the flal is.the more sandingyoull have to do. Toreduce this problem.
choosethe Ilghlest 'paring possible without

U.l5eU'IIE'11kerf bmldill,gl
gl neral ''1,/&>1

J like to apply. lighl coal of seater to the

kerf bent piece and then examine the surface clOS<?ly. To do this. J use a lighl source
from behind the piece. This lets me check
the-workpiece one more time lor Oats before
applying the final coats.
I also recommend a satin finish rather
than a high gloss.. The reason for this is if
there are any nat" (even small ones). th.y1I
show upmore with a gloss finish than with a
satin or mane finish~

b. MAX. Sr-A(SNG FOR 1, .. ltAo.cuaVt

-.

..

..,

'

ther (ll'Y

" ...1

In most cases, l SJ)aCc.' the kerfs about V,,'1 to

l'g' apart - even if Ute radius is large. It

might seem like alot of work 10cut kerfs so

close logetll~r (l!j;pedaU)'on a long piece),
but it'snot. CUllingkerfsis fasl work. It's sort
of a trade-off. If you spend a litll<- more time
kcrfing up front. you'lI spend a 101less time
sanding out Ilats later.
As a general rule. Ihe closer the kerfs arc
lOl(elher. the lil(htcr the radius you can
bend. see fil1. 7. ButmorC' important.closely
spaced kerfs provide a smooth L'WVe.
For exampte, I found that you could bend
'lfl"thkk stock around a 12" radius b)' using
y!" "Ilacing - but there were noticeable
flats, see Fig. 8Bychangingthcspacingto V,".I was able
10 bend a similar piece easier, so the 0.115
could hardl)' be seen. and easily removed
with lighl sanding.
Note: Unless the radius is extremely
large. Iwouldn't space the kerfsgreaterthan
~.". Any greater and you risk creating Oats
that you'll never be able to remove.

14

c.

MAX. $PACING .FOR 6- 1tAD. CURVf

1
fOR

NOTE:
.tST JUSUt.TS.

','

SPAcr 1URf5 t 4" TO ,,-

""AlIT

~-..,

HtAVY SANDING
(.AN CtIT "'OOUGH

,~vtNlIR

-flAT

..

KERFS
~

APART

_at

W1DE KERf $PAC'NO,

MOO
MUS11II2
SANPtO OfF 10 ACHlM

I 1

_ _.:A SMOOTH CUlt ..

FLAT

KERfS

"II

4""

APAIIT

\Xr.tc"bm it h

No. 77

.'

KERFING TECHNIQUES
There arc a number of ways l<J kerf a workpiec.... You can usc radial ann saw. t.abl~
saw. band saw, oreven a hand saw to do this
But no matter which saw you usc. it's best
to use an indexing system to keep th~ spacinJ( uniform, TIle more uniform the spacing
is. the more uniform ihe curve will be.
The type of'indexing system and howeasy
it isto usedetermine which type!)f saw to use
for kernng.
RADIAL AIIM SAW
When 1 need 10 CUI a lot of kerfs in a long
narrow board. Ichoose a rudial ann saw. It

lends itself he;:110 kerfing since the saw kerf

is on Ihe top or the workpiece where you can
see it. see Mg. 9. U's also eas)' to align the
kerfs to an indexing line drawn on the fence.
Draw an index line on the fence SO the
distance from the lineto the blade equalsthe
desired spacing between the kerfs. Then
align the end of the workpiece with tlte index

line and CUIthe fin;t kerf. Afi.r that. align the

edge ofthe just-cut kerfwith the index line to
make the next kerf. set' Fig. 9.
When kernn)! on the radial arm saw, be
sure 10 hold the workpiec, naL Otherwise
the workpiece may rise upand you'lI end up
cutting all the way through.
'AaUSAW
On the table saw. the same method can be
used by drawing the index line all the table
top or an auxiliary fence that's attached 10
the miter gauge. In either case. it can be dif
ficuh to see the mark - <0 1 usually use a
differenl method,
To index the kerfs. I drive a No. -1 screw
inlO the auxiliary fellC('and cut oCCthe head.
set' rig. 10.CThesbaftofaNo . .j screw has a
diameter jusl slightly less than W' to 6t the
kerf of. typical saw blade.) As each kerf is
cut, jusllift the board and place it over the
screw. see rill'. 10.

One advantage to using the table saw is

lha! you can kerf a L~~ workpiece. such as
.4.8 sheet ofMasonite.
Shop Note: In most cases- when you kerf
a worl,piecc.you'recutting acrossthe grain.
Because of this. Ifound that a 4O-tootll carbide-lipped combination blade worked best
for cutting kerfs on either the table saw or
tile radial arm saw.
BAND SAW

Cutting kerfs on a band saw is SOI1ofa COm

bination of both previous methods, An indexing line i.drawn on thp fenre (a" on th e
radial arm saw). But fortheband saw Iclamp
the fence Ix>/,,,,,r the blade and use It as a
depth stop a. the board is pushed into the
blade, see Fig. II.

Since the blade is so til in on a band saw.

you rna cui extremely thin. closely spaced
kerf" 'This means a smooth <'UTVcwith minimal sanding.

ct.n'

JAD.()f:f.4

SCUW

.AND USI ASINDfX."N ON

AUXl1JAAY fENCE.

CORNER BLOCKS - A KERFING ALTERNATIVE

There's another interestingway10bend ply.
wood or sotid wood around. very tight
comer - using a solid wood comer block
and. slngle large.> kerf (dado). reterto phOlO
on far TilIht. Using tbi;, mtotbod, the thin
outer face of iheworkptece Is the only pan
thaI actuaDy bends around the comer. For
S\J'1!Ilg1h.irs back,,<! up by the cornerblock,

Tudotbis,Slart

bycultinga blocKOr,or.d

$IOCKthaI'S shAped lome\,'UtI*.

You can CUI pte<:t'.set' photo on left Now make arnarkat

a radius on ate block'Wilh.citbI!N' band saw ea ch end to d~6n(' the kerf..

Next. waste awar Iltis marked secuon QI
ora sabre saw. then~
tbeCIIJ'Ve$!)lQ()th.
To determine tile wi<ltII oflbe $ingolekerf theworkpiet'e. seecemer photo. Note:1'est
fit's actually a dado). first pl:l<:ethe corner the 6t of tile comer block and sneak up on
lbe final width oftbe dado b)"takinga series
block on the piece to be bent,
Then, press down on the blocll CI) keep it ofculs.
("mally. apply Jl1uelo Ibe comerblockand
ftcm stiPi>ingand rock il in both direc:tioll1'
so the end of the block touch .. s: the work- ,I. DIPit in place.

I'
No. 77

15

SOME

TIP

FRO

SH0

1\1 OUR

Shop Notes

DRAWING A PARTIAL ELLIPSE

The top of Ihe Curved-From end C. Nowfind the cernerpoint
Table en page 18 is :!Cmi-cnlpti and mark lt R.
Next, draw a perpendicular
caJ- its shaped Iike an mal spli I
in half. To make one. you'll nee>d line Irom Ih, centerpoint (8).
to draw 3 partial ~1Jj""".All it Make it the same knglh .~ Ihe
takes is a pencil. 3 pil!Ceof thin width 01 th!' table top (11").
Mark the top end ofthis line D.
wire and a couple nails.
lAY OFT. Start by drawing a
The next step is 10 locale two
straight line aslong.slhe ICfIIlIh nailpolnts, Tod" this. usea ruler

of the template for the table lop

(33"). see Fig. 1.111en mark one
end 01the line A. and Ill" other

distance from point D 10 line AB .

and also to line BC. set' Fig. 2.
These are your nail points. mark
them N I and !112.
SAIL' ,,-x 0 ,,1R, So mum for
the hard part.The next step is 10
drive a nan or brad inlo N I. N2.
and D.1l1CU loop apiece of thin
wire (I used 32 gaug-,,) ~I:hlly
around all three nails. and I"isl
the ends together, NOle: Don'l
usestring.it stretchestoomuch.

or compass 10find the distance

from A 10 Il (or lIlO C. it should
bethe same).Thenmeasurethis

,i

WJDTHOf

'Ott
TOP

rAIU
fll,

....

\
LENGTH

SEt (HO Of 'R:UlD.

0"1/""0 ......

DlST.,.,a ON UHf
(... 1AND 1>inI1&Cl

ANDDaAW

AAa

..

STEPt

N.(EO(1)

UPtAct NAIl .T (0.

WJTH PfN(IL POM

.\

."

"1

cut a notch [or the wire 10 ride in

about ~ ..from the pencll tip. see
Fig. 3a. This will keep the wire
from sliding and make it easier
10 draw an accurate ellipse

N2 C

~ -<.l'Nt

the wire taut.drawan IIJ'C from 0

10A and from D 10C. sec Fig. 3.
Note: Uyou're using a pencil,

STP2

lMP1Att

DRA\\1NGA.
x EWPSE. Finally.
10draw the ellipse. remov" the
nail at nand replace it with a pen
or pencil point. Now. keeping

a.

NOTCHFOIl

MfASUR, ROM tAl to (&)

wrrH RUUJ OR COMPASS

fOR lfMPLAtt (l.JIlJ

RESAWING VENEER FROM PLYWOOD

I wanted the wood on tile lOP
and end, 01the Tambour Clock
on page 6to match the veneer of
Ihe 1)lywood I used for the from
and back of the clOCK.So I reosawed the veneer off a piece of
the same sheet ofplywood that I
used (or the front and hack.

side of the blade. see rig. I

\VIlat you'relrying todo iscllt off
the lace veneer plus a liule bit 01
the ply just underneath (called 8
crossband) which gives the lace
veneer some support.

PL)~VQOO U'.ASM.Til do this,

Ih. plywood over the blade.

1
\

UAvtTHIN
IAYfR: OF

TRIM OFF TItE Yf.NtER. Now

turn on the saw and s/ml'l!/ run

Then flip the piece end for end

slightly wider and a lillie longer and make a second cuI 10 rethan the finished size you'll need mow thP veneerand a thin layer
for your project. (Filr th, Clock ol the cressband. sec fiR. I.
top and end strips I used one
CtFAN OtT CROSSRAND. The
piC('('4 W' wideal.t! 25~"long.)
next step is [0 remove the
SAW SIlTl'P. Though the crossband from the bark. You
veneer could he resawn orr the need to do this for IWO reasons.
plywood ,,;th a band saw, this First.thethkknessofthcvenccr
lime ( decided to use the table haSIC)beconsisternsch wiUglue
saw with a combination blade. down smooth and Oal.Also, you
Start by raising the blade so it's don't wanl any olthe crossband
slightly higher than hall rhe 10 show along the edge of the
veneer once il'~S{lue(1down.
width of the plywood.
Now comes the ~icky panI removed Ihe erossband with
setting the rip renee so 3 thin a portable ""It sander. using a
layer can be cut off the waste 120 grit s.'1ndinghell sec ~Ig. 2.

CROSS
BANDON
~

start with a piece of plywcod

16

a.

'P"
Sl8l,ADIHUGtiTTOSUGKt'lY

lACk OF
YENEtR

MOM THAN HAt.f nt.f

WJDTHOf Plrwooo

(IA/oIP

VENa. to

.~

OlNO<

\'{Ioodsmnh

Nu.77

PILOT STRIP FOR ROUTER

When it came time to make And that makes the top largtn,
To make the pilot strip. cut a
the top (or the Curved- Front
Table shown on page 18, there small scrap of stock l\.'.?" wide
was a problem. J wanted we top and 5" long. The strip should be
to have the exact same elliptical

the same tllickn('~~as the tern-

shape as we ca~- only larger.

The best solution was to find a
way to use the same template
that I made for the c se parts.

plate (II." in OIl' case).

PIWI'STRII'. The technique I

came UP with is to tape a strip o(
wood LU the base of we router,

see ['lg. 1.This pilot strip keeps

0", router bita uniform distance
(rom th.. edge of the template.

Then tape the strip

the

(or trimming. see Fig. I.

USINC ,\ PIWI'STRIP.

Now. to

use the pilol strip. start by taping

the template to the workpiece

to

router base using double-sided

carpet tape, Position the edge 01
the strip so it just touches we
edge of the straight bit you use

O.
AVOIO ... ooc,HG"
.ROunR WttILl

TAW tOP

But a straight pilot strip won't

allow the bit to go into an inside
on page 25). Then set we router (concave) curve. In this case. I
on the template SO the edge o( use a round pilol. see Fig. 2.
the pilot strip rides og:IinSlwe
To make a round pilot. draw a
edge olthe template. sec Fig. I a. circle on the pilol stock with
Try not to "rock" the router your compass sella the distance
alollll"theedgeofthetemplaleas
you want to incre ase we remyou routtheworkpiece. Rocking plate plus half the diameter of
will increase the distance be- the bit. Now CUIout we circle.
Then drill a hote in the center
tween the template and we bit.
IN$IOE CURVES. This works of the pilol sli,l:hlly larger (han
well for routing straight stock the bit. Now attach the pilol to
and outside (convex) curves, the fouler base nlaking sure it's
such as we Curved-From Table. exactly centered over Ihe biL
and cuulng the workpiece
slightly oversize (refer to Fig. 26

PltOT
STRIP

o.

NTtR ROUND

pflOr OVUt

.fT

ROUT CONCAVl CURV6

WJTH AOUND PIlOT

1t0Ul1NG lOGE

RABBETING WITHOUT eHIPOUT

when routing. rabbet along
the comer of a piece of wood.
there's alway, a chance of
chipout .Ionglheolltsid.face of
the workpiece. see Fig. 1.
(There shouldn't be any chipout
along the 111.<,ri,' ef tlw rabbet
since the wood fibers behind

those being cui SUPl)Ortthcm.)

Along the outside face. the
6"",." aren't supported. If the
grain direction of the workpiece

runsat an angle. there's likely to

be chipout along the top outside
edge nf'the rabbet, see Fig. I.
Cl.A,'1 EOCEO R-ISIIET. Since

wood fitted in the rabbet.)

Typically. a V." x 11.," rabbet

ence is thai Iset we router table

fence $0 only Ills' Ilf the bit was
exposed. see Fig. 2. Thts fif't

mighl becui in a single passwith

straight bit on the router table. pass lightly skims Ih~lace and
all (aces of the legs on the Or in two passes. raising we bil greaOy reduces the chance of
any chipout along th e top oUI
Curved-Frout Table shown on between passes.
1WOP,\$ M11l00. For the side edge ofth~ rabbet.
page 18are exposed. it's lmporCurved-Front
Table, I used a
'Own. 10complete tile rabbet,
tam that rabbets with two dean
edges be cut for the comer in- two-pass method. But instead of reposition the Icm'.. to CXPOSl'
lays. (Normally.tbisisola prob- raising the bit between passes, I ~. 01 Ibe bit and make a clean
lem since chipout on the outside cut the fim pass with a straight full-depthcut al<lDgeach corner
face is often hidden by a piece of bit set at fuTlheight, The dilfer oruic leg. sec FiR.2.

o.

FIRST
PASS

UNSUPXMt1"tO
WOOOFlWtS
CAN cMl{JOUT
AlONG top

OU1'SCor

lOGE

NOTt:
ROU1Vt "fUll. f[NCf
.f.MOvtD fOR CUJtrTY

No. 77

LtG

STtP 1

sntAlGHT
BIT

cur
CttAH CUT ON "",SID"
OF RAlan- SJNCt
f16lRS AR SUPPO!tlrD

N/4RI'tOW .... I!LHI'

STfP2

MOVE ftNCi -yo COMPLE'tt RABen

Woodst\)I t h

17

HEIRLOOM

PROJECT

Curved ...Front Table

A curved apron and tapered legs with inlays are two of the chal.lenges
in building this classic table. But how do you inlay the legs? They're not
reaUy inlays, b-lLt a simple technique to give it the look of inlay .

here's something about this CurvedFrom Table

that bringsoullhecuriosityinanycrail.qnan.
How
an' the curved aprons made? Is a thick piece used and
thencut intoacurved shape? Or isitbent somehow? And
how about the 1(1(S.1'10 sure some kind of (ancy jig was
used 10 gel the inlays so tigbL
Not at aD. In (at't. both of these :leemingly complex
woodworking tasks have simpl~ solutions.
CVRVEO APRONS.The curved aprons of the table arc
made from p))'Wood.and have a series of saw kerfs cut
in the back 10allow the wood 10bend. (J{e've included a
separate technique article on kerf bending in this issue,

In what could almost be called a reverse inlay technique.] wasted away the wood from the It'8IO leave the
"inlay." Then. Iglued thin strips of t'Ontra$ling wood
where the wood bad been removed, lt's that simple.
WOO~. I used solid cherry for the legs, and cherry
plywood for the aprons and table top. And. (or the contrasting wood trim. I chose walnut, I also used some
~thick p)j'Woodto build the inner ease that the aprons
are ben! around.
01'110NS.Allhough I really like the look of the inlaid
legs and the inial' 00 the top of this table. it can be buill
withouuhis trim. Atable like this, (made ofsolid cherry)
appeared in the shop recently and looked quil~ elegant.
see page 12.)
TAPF.JlEOLEGS. The "inlaid"legsareanoth(>rcxampie
FlJll1SII. To finish the table. I wiped all One coal of
"fa simple solution t(ladiflicultUlsk - how doyou inlay General Finishes' Sealacell and two coals of their Salin
tapered strips on all four faces of each leg?
Royal Finish top coal.

18

No. 77

LEG DETAIL

EXPLODED VIEW

_1\,-_

.@TOP

BACI( TltIM

.e

TI

""TABlE TOP
/'!/ INLAY
FRONT
TRIM

6"

:
,
(i)

BEADING

APRON
INLAY

(lI)

TOP INLAY

!r

APRON
LEGCORE@

BOTTOM INLAY @...

OVlRAU
DIMENSIONS:
36'." W J( 141anD" 293."H

MATERIALS LIST
It legCore(4)

legToPlnIov(16)
C legBtmIl"lv(lCO)
o legCorn.flnlov(16)
E Leg BeocIng (1)
F Case TOP(8lrn.(2)

G ~BocI<l

It

H
I
J
k
l

Apton( )
AptO<'Irb(

Bock I)
ToP()
TOdeToPHoy

M BockTrm(l)
N FronITrIm(l)

4)

l~xl ,,-29
>a,1 ,co
~3
.x .-30(1lgh)
""x - 3O(Rgo)
1m x 33 - "PlY
~x3-CO

r-

J_~

CUnlNG
Ii, ,.

DIAGRAM

30"
I'.," .. 3'

-r .2..5"

ALSO.(OU~ro,

2." .... SHm Of

MAJOHrrt fOa

!.-

" , . ocr

~1'

4x48-~.PIY
x 48(1Ql)
4.32 -~.PIY
13i11x3C>-:lI.PIY
". -5<! (fIgn)

'x~."J6
"x~."5II(Rgh)

Gef'OrolFl'1C$hes SeoioceiSeoiet
GenorOl f<"llohes Royal FiI'li!h(Solin)

\. ~

...-

.....
o. It

19

TAPERED LEGS
Before slarting On
this table, you have
to decide if you wam

TOPOF ltG

C,

to add inlays and

decorative bl'ading

10 the legs. or net,

Tht' cover of this
issue shows a labh'
being buill wilhoul
these Iwl>;.lfyou don't want 10 add them.
you can Sian on the leg,; by cutting four Ie((
cores (A). J It," square and 29"1008. (1uS<.'<I
cherry (or the legs.) Then skip to the section
~l(,w "TAf"ER LEG CORES .... and then conlinuewith buikliolrthecascon page 22.
[1\IA\'S.Jf you want the inlai~ look (or the
legs. IrO ahead and CUI the leg cores (/\).
/\JUlougb tbeinlaid 1ej,'S(shown in thephoto
on page 18) appcar 10 be made (rom walnut
with cherry inlays. 1think it's easier 10start
with cherry cores and inlay walnut into the
comers and the lOP and bottom of the legs.
TOP RAllBET. Aftercutting the cores. cut a
wide. shallow rabbet around the top of each
Fig. I.Position the table saw rip fence so it's 6" away
from the (JIII.iil, edge of a dado blade. see
Ag. 1a. Then adjusl Ihe blade to cut to a
depth of Vg".
Ncwcutashouldoroneach fare of the leg.
using the rip fence 3S 3 SlOPand thc miter
gauge to keep the workpiece square. When
the should." are cui. waste away Ih~ remaining stock 10 the end of ihe leg.

DADO BLADr

NOff:

leg for the leg lop inlays (B)._

TAPER IC CORES, Afler the lop rabbets

step is to

are cut on all (our legs. the next

taper thelcg.. referto 111('Leg-Detail on page

19.I did this on the table saw using a tape,
jig set [0 begin the taper at the shoulder of
the rabbet, see rig. 2, (For more on taper
jigs. see 1V0001"",illl :>:". 61.)
8(JT1'(lM IWIRF.T, Once a taper is cut 00
Ihe legs. the rabbet can becut for the bonom
inlay. To do this, first position the rip fence

4 uc TCP

t'liT M'rTU-GAUGE

so BO:trOM 0; ISG
1$ FLAr AQAlH.sT RIP flNCi!
so it's 3" (rom the t)lI,,<idpe<l'!e of your dado

blade. see Fig, 3,

There's a potential problem here. Since
the leg is now tapered, ifl'ou CUI the bottom
rabbet with the mner gauge SCIat !j()', il
won'1be parallel with the bottom of the leg.
\\ 'hat you need to do is tilt the miter gauge
so the bottom cnd oCtheleg Is flataj,'llinsl the
sideonhe rip fence. Then, cut the rabbets as

you did for the ieg lOpinlay,

TOP ANI) BO'I'TO~I1~IAY, \Vith ihe legs
rabbeted. walnut inL~ypieces can be CUI 10
fil thernbbers. Start byeuttingenoughstock
(or sixteen pieces Of1"1(tOp inla)' (M) and
sixteen pieces of 1"1(bottom jnl~' (C),
To do this. first rC'S3W the stock ,;0 it's as

LEG BOTTOM
INIAY@

INlAY

)~ f

.....

l'
o
1.,.. .$t1tAJOtrr

......AN.
BOTfOM

_,,\,.

CUT TOP

,
.....

~4
... ,
,

lNLAVS

Tortr
R.A5BnS

CUt I ." Jt J ... RAset'S

ON (ORNUS Of LIO

CUTlNlAY

to fIT CORNER

_MIn

orr

t,

thick as the rabbetsare deep (~"). Thencut

the pieces 10 61the rabbeted areas and glue
them in place, sec F.g, 4.
Note: Since you'll be ,'utting away the
corners of each leg. this Inlay doesn'r have
tocxtend aU the way10thecomers=- luslla
the shoulders of the rabbet. see fig, Sa.
COR,"ER L''lAY. The n~Xl.srepis 10 rout a
II~"x 1'4" rabbeuhe length ofeach leg Iorthe
leg comer inlay (0). see Ag.Sa.1 did thisby
making [WO passes on the router table, see
Fig, 5, (For more infonnation on this, sec
Shop Notes. page 17.1
Nowcntsixreen leg comer inlays (D) 10
fit the rabbets.see Figs, 6alld lia.Then.glue
the strips to the legs and sand them flush,

Q.

INLAY

AfIPt. Y CLAMPS
WHRE. TAPIR. STARTS

C,

LtG CORi
FOR A TIGHT FIT,

PLANE A SUGm
CHAMit$tON
INSIDE CORNfR

..._
I !."

20

No. 77

BEADING
Th .... , Ill....mo ,..,'1 of Irim to add - till"
c11,'I)f3tJ\I' bt'adinR that c;()ttenc;the l1'3l1c;;;"
lion ""I"' ...nIh~ fL1t section a1lhelopoflhe

.,..,.......,~I

_
IVoI)ING
.

.',.

kog~and Ih, tapered lower section.

NOt'f IJ UIU.~ I1w ""ading fits in shalk,,,
dad",, ,'ul n,1U'the lOP of each leg. refer 10
1';11II l routed Ih,.... dadoes on ihe router

table, M'" 1';11-7, Youcould use. table saw.

bUI the ,'ham'" "I chipou! IS reduced i( you
use a ruul,'" (and Yllull gel a cleaner cui).
To locate Iht dadoes, start by positioning
Ih,' f~I1C1'011your router lablc47",," from lh.
,tlg~
III;, I'," '-trotighl bu see F'I,I(. 7a.
Then "". a b(lar<l10back upthrleg. and rout
the da'H"" on e...-hk~.see Fill. 7
n'T Kt. \IH 'I. Once the dadoes are cut,
till" ""xl "'1' s to make lh e beading (E)
~lnt.'\IIII~bcatilnlt: i~
...
mall (J..,.. ,. ~.c").it'.::;
~(" ...
t to -..tan With a '4o-idf' pit"Ct"and then cut
Ihe ""adil1!: 0" lhe edge of the '-Irip.
Fir-Hipa 'Irip V, thick (rog. 8). and tb<1l
u ... a \oj. ","",kJ" r bit on the router table
l(J rlulnd I'\'t'r both t"dJ(e~.sec Fig. 9. (Thi.s

",.,rI.

p",dun~., h"ll< ,ld , Now.the beadingcan

bt ,.,fdy rut olf II\(',odl(e o(t1""trip, see Fig.
II), I'(lsllilln Ih,' ["lie,' 10cui a 1I..widebead
on 11ll'wash' ,1<1,'of the blade.
,\lITF~ IW.AIUSI.1'<) U:~G11I. Nlcr Ihe
,trip, (IIr tlu- l ."adinl!i,cut. tile final >t~pi,
to miter ..ix1t.'t.'11.::tu,rt pieces to fil in 1hEdnd(K'~on tl'41t>...: "'(_'C Fig. 11. I cut these
)lj'''-I''

4111Jt ...Jllfll1

-'"If

.....
lOur It. I.WID(

USt alOCKlO
SUPPOlJUG
OuttlHO CUt

OAJ)()

,:o.lfADfNO

'." SftA.tGH' lIT

FIRST:

.,., 'Hef

..

neoc

t ...

$"'_
RAIlING

' ........

.,.

SECOND:

IIOIITfO

ROUT AN . - IOUNJ:)...OV(It
ON TWO (DGU Of STIJP

'AW
f(HCt

~. "
f'

---,.

~i

!
10

I lOUNo-ovot

THIIU>;

.','1Na

.RIP afADING OfF

11

arr

BEADING

(!)

WASTt $lJ)l
OfSTltlP

h()I)oOOill miter box. .;,('f>

box below
I cut the "'.'( ., one at a time and glued
them in pix,. l11i,,""> Icould woric on one
K.'lI., Ih, """,hnl( on ~noth,.,.Jtog was dry.
inR ("nte' Ill.' headinjl should fit tight
..ithnul ,!Jm!"'. bUI if they're kJ05t'. tape
them in plat:,. until the lllue dnes.)

...' .....
'4

-~

~:1
-- -11
r---

--FOUltTH:

TO m. lHlN
GLut IN DADOU

MITERING SMALL PIECES

\L\KE sox. Tu make Ih,' mikr
box.
start with R !lCmp of IVi"
trim vhort pieces such as the
h"adinll (0' the lells for the Ihlck hardweod, set Fill. 12.
Curved-Front Table? The Then. rut ""nt('r,'fIl(f'(IIlVc the
nu-thod I ">t'ls 10 make a minia- length of til(' ~"'P til hdld your
11Ir~mit",. box "ilh a 4S' kmlO woricl';(.'('(".",xt.lay Olll and <111
jIlIi,1<- a hand..;aw
Ihe ~5 kerl with., hand sa".

How rl() youaccurarely miter and

13

12
DADO
fOIIlIL&IIING

4" KII'
fOlUW

No, 77

the angled end and chi...'I. fil<,.

"rsand th..,piere fora J)t'rfl,(lfil.

WlDINOCAHI(
l'1tI.MM1D 01 SANOI"D
TO RNA1. ffT OH
AHGUO_

t ...ou.p

".,

CIfT~5'()N 1!l'1). You can al",

trim miters with this miter box,
Todothis.cuts4S angle 011 one
end. see Fig. 13.'I11cn positlon
the woricpiece so it extend, 0111

.s

CUt
ANellON
ONE (NO

rutting miter-. on :ernull

tnt rctI t3. ,,,-pit' iJ' fjf1u.. nn~ h
,ni",.fJ".r. Th", If''Ork..
tJ l,PId h!l ,'''',.Ring It into

If 'N Ill/'i"'"

Iliff"

Cl qrrHll't
'Ilt'l

roo,.

tlll 'tt ihp tap Of tJrt

TJt(' tlld o(tJie ,)~;t~t

1",,, U1 ~It((II all ~IIgit so i, (e"

be II.. djllr filial lrimming.

21

CURVED FRONT CASE

The tapered k'!!S"rl'
mounted '" a curved

casctharalsoactsas

a base unit for the

aprons The case
consists
of two
pieces of plywood
held logeth~r with
curved
support
'
blocks, refer to photo on Ih~ opposite pag1:.
The support blocks are notched to accept
the legs, and a series of hoi." are drilled in
Ihe case to aid in clamping on the aprons
later, refer to Exploded Vicw. pag~ 19.
,",,"IUTE.I started work on the <'3Seby
making a templare tu cut the -ease top and
bonom. There arc two reasons for this template. Fil'&. you only have 10lay OUI one 1.'1,
tipse - even though there are three pieces
with this shape on the table (the two case
pieces and the finished top).
Second. you can also U!;<, the template
along with flush trim or pattern bit (see
palW:Wfor more on these bits) to rot identical forms fOrlhe case, and to cut the top and
add an inlay strip (see page 2;;).
To make the template. start by layiogout
the ellipse dimensions on a piece of \14'"
thick Masonite. S<~Fig. 14.To allow for the
bacldegsand theinset back piece O),layout
the centerline of the ellipse t,( from the

14

back edge of Ille Masonile Now draw the

ellipse. (For a description of how 10do 1.hjs.
see Shop Notes. page' 16.) Finally. CUI the
template oul and sand the edges smooth,
C,ISE TOP AND BOTTOM. Aftcr making the
template.the next steals to CUI and trim the
case top and bottom (F) (rom W'-thick fir
ply-.l.ood.see rig. t4, To do this. trace Ille
outline of the templalC onlo the plywood.
Then. roughcuuhe lOp and bottom to..itbin
Wofthc pencilllne. see rig. Ha.
Now thetemplatecan be used with a flush
trim bit IU trim the plywood w match the
template To do this. firsl tape the template
10the blank with double-sided carpet tape.
ThCD.adjust Ille bil so the lx'3ling rides
againsl the template and trim the blank to

shape, sec Fig. 15.

top, see Fig, 16.

The notches for the back legs arc a titUe

different. They're narrower than the leg so
the legs slick out beyond the bock of the
case pieces, (This allows for tile c...se back
that'sadded later.) So cut these notches '-II"
narrower than ihe legs, see rig, 16.
CL\.\lP DOLES.Since the case top and bot10m arc used to support the curved aprons.
I drilled a seriesofholes inboth pieces to be
able toclampthe apronsinplace. To do this,
layout and drill twelve holes, see Fig. 16. (I
used. I V!,'-dia bit. buuhiscanvarydependingofthe size ofc1amps you use)
SUPl'OlO' BLOCKS. Once the damp holes
are driJled. work can begin on We support
blocks (G), These blocks act as spacersbetween the case top and bottom. and also as

screw blocks for the legs. refer to figs. 19

and 20 on the opposite page.
out (ourW-<leepnotchesalongtheedgesto
Make the support blocks by ripping a
accept the legs, To save time. lay our the pieceofstandard 21<4to 3"wide. Then cut off
notches on the lop only. Then tape the top four6"4ong blocks.
Next, center tWO blocks undereacl! of the
and the bottom together with carpet tape 10
cut the notches inboth pieces together.
middle 1,* notches that are laid OUI on the
To locale the two center notches, make case, The Diller two blocks are posiuoned
marks on the back edge ofthe case top, 7" in Oush with the back edge for the rear leg
from each end. see rig. 16.Then transferthe noiches.see Fig. 17
positions up 10 the Iront edge,
Now. trace the outline of the plywoodl'3sc
New. hold a leg on the mark anddraw the onto the blanks and cut out the support
thickness of the 1(1:toward the inside or th~ blocksalonglllis line
LAYOIJf NOTt'JES. Once the case top and
bonom are trimmed. the next step is to lay

, A.St~ TlM.Pl.An
ALONG (OOt 01- CASt: IU.NK
wn'H OOUlll-SfDD

a.

CA.IlPET TAPE

15

AlJGN TtMPLAn
'WSH wmt tACK
IDCE Of PlYWOOO

ro ~JCH
WITH ~

Tl4M Plywc!oo
T!MPlATf

TRtM IrT ON lOU'rot 1AaU

Ott: KAND HB.D ROUTtR

WI...

ctHTmJN.

n""""n

l'Ml'UTf,

""""

""

-:;_

r;:

,.-

ICUf'StoM ' .. ..1HIClCMASOMTI]

'i
~

'.,...necK PlYWOOO

rott CAS TOP

RUSIf

T.....

I: (/, T

ANOI5QTTOM

""..ott,

16

,i~ _,-,_-

""

USEUG$TO
LAYotn WlorH ~

15fT

11

CLN'ml HOltHES

CASE TOP/BOTTOM

t .~
1); ."
_.,.

22

2,1,.. ~

,._

-u,

_j
r
I

NOT:
LAYOUT NOTCH fOR aACK UG ./
,.- WI THAN ntlCkNlSS Of lEG

Woodsmith

....

3'

,t~"

@
SUPPORT
BLOCKS

No. 77

CASE

CQN1'r-aJro

After the support blocks have been CUtto

match the curve of the case lOPand bottom,
they can be screwed in place.
Since the apron (that's added later) is
glued only 10 the plywood 101'and bouom, I
set the support blocks back 111" frorn the
front edge. This won'taffect the support the
blocks provide to the 1<'In'though - they
will be notched along with the plywood top
and bottom 10accept the legs.
ASSEMBLE CASE. Assembly or the case
bl'ginS by screwing the support blocks one
aI a time to the bottom of the case.

To do thls, center a support block on a

notch and selll back W', see FIg. 18. Now
clamp the block in place and screw it to the
plywood. Note: I used two flathead screws
for each support block. and countersunk
them intctheplywood so the table lop (that's
added later) will sit (lat on the ease top.
After all four blocks are screwed 10 the
bottom. the 101'of the case can be attached,
Screwing illo the blocks is easy - but gel'
ling the top and bottom aligned with each
other is nOI $0 easy. Iflhecase top and bottom aren't square and allgned to each other.
the aprons won't 00 square 10 the table top
when they're glued on later,
To auach the (01' of Ihe case. start by placinglhe assembly 00 edge with the backedgc
resting on a Oal surtaee, sec Fig. 19.Then.

18

use a try square to

align One end of the
case. Once the 101'
and bouem
are
aligned. clamp them
together.
Then.
slide tbe square
slowly up thccurved
case, checking to
make sure the two
pieces are square with each other.
If they're nOI square at each support
block, you can shift the top Orthe bottom of
the case 10 bring them into square. When
they're clamped square. screw the lOpof the
case 10the support blocks.
cur NOTCfiES. Afterthe case is screwed
together. the notches can be cut to fit the
legs. see Figs, 20 and 21.
Icui these notches on tile band saw by
cutting the sides of the notch first and then
removingthewastewithaserieso(culs.
You
could also usc a hand saw 10 cui the sides,
and a chisel to remove the waste.
But whichever method you use. it's very
imporlaot thai the back of each notch be
parallt'l to the front edge of the case. tf it's
not, the Ieg-won'[ be pcrpendicularto the (01'
of the table. This can cause IWOproblems.
First, the legs can twisland won't be paralleltoeach other.Second. the aprons which

C(

are added tater, won't bun up against the

legs squarely. So. check the notchesoftcn as
you cut them,
AITI\Ctl

LEG~Once

the notches are C.Ul.

lhe next step is 10 screw the Ie!!,!10the case.

To do this. start by drilling a shank hole
centered through thefro1l1 of each support

block. see Figs. 20 and 21.

The next step is to locate a pilot hoi. in
each leg. To make it easier to do this. tum
the case upside down and place it on a Oal
surface. Then insert a leg ill a notch and hold
it in place. Next. reach through the back of
the case and push an awt or brad-poim bit
thn)ugh the shank hole so il leaves a mark
on the leg
Aftermarking each leg. drill a pilot hole in
the back of each I~g. Finally. spread glue in
the notches and on the back of the ICl!s.and
screw the legs to the case, making sure
they're perpendicular 10 the case.
CASEeonoM

PLAClCASf
ON fLAT

19

SCR.(W SUPPORT
'LOCKS TO aonOM
Of CASt

_',,(E

USt laY SOUARt

foAUONlNOS
Of CASE TOP

NTfIt 6I.OCK

AND BOnOit!'

ON LG lOCATIONS

.,.1'."",

WOODSCREWS

20A

...

an

NOTCH

-....

TOP TO BLOCKS

21

:l\" OUP

-aA A

CHtc1C FOR SQUUl

AS YOU SC1tIW CASt:

.>

,r
"

CUTl.OEIP NotCHES
lOll CtNTllt UGS, THEN
GlUE AND SCREW ucs
IN P\.ACEi

IACI( SiDE:
OfCMI
FRONT lEG

a.

.,'

'-IEARUGS

t.,,-

tJCTtND
PAST
CAS$: 501A(1(
WlUlffWSH

No. 77

Wo<x!smlth

23

APRONS AND BACK

At this point the leg,;
arc screwed to the
case. The next StCP
Is to add the apron to
the curved front.
The apron is made
from a single strip of
lII''''lhick chen)' ply
wood that's cut into
three sections t" fit between the legs,
IIPRON.13eg:inwork on the apron (II) by
cutti og a4-wide.Wlong stripof chen)' ply.
wood. (Nore: The foce grain or the plyw()od
should run the length at the strip.)
Before cutting the apron into sections, 1
added an apron inlay (I) strip (or appearance. To do this. routa 1,rtwiderabbctalong
the bouom edge. see 1lg.22. Then cut the
inlay strip to fit the rabbet, After it's glued in
place. sand the inlay Bush "ith the apron.
ClITSt:cnOl<S. Now the apron can be CUt
Imothree sections. To determine the rough
length or each section. run a tape measure
between Ihe legs a1anl! the curved case.
Then, 10 allow (or the thickness of the ply
wood and ior trimming later. add 1W' 10
each measurement.
Nowcut the suipin10 three sections. (1CUI
the IWO end sections 14"Iong and the middle
section 18"long.)
KF.I\F IINOrrr APRON. '!be next step is to
kerf and filthe apron sections. I started by
cutting kerfs in each section. spacing them

a.

roa INLAY

APRON

b.

' ... .J.~1 ...

_..
_.A:_

"......

I,"

X. Jj\

GlUI INLAYINtO ftABau.

TH(N cur APRONS
TO ttOUGH llNGl)f

.. =I. :"UAl.lV:';'~Ii.r.
!.t;.~~

",,!tON

~INlAY

_UNKl:RfIO

every \1',". sec Fig. 22b. (For more on kerf

ing. see page 12.)
To make it easier 10 fit the aprons between
the legs. I <out a 10' bevel on one end of each

apron, see Fig.23a. Then to get anidea of the

finallenj(lh. curl the apron around the edge
o( the easeand make a mark where the unbcveted end meets the leg. sec Fig. 23. "ow
cui this end at 10' auhe mark. Sneak up on
the finallength bytakingverybghtcutsumil
the apron just fit~between the legs,
Afler filting all three apron sections between the legs, they can be glued and
clamped to the case .ee f"tg. 24. I added
clampinll strips to orotecuhe apron and distribute the pressure evenly along the edge.

BlICK. The next step is to add the back. To

determine the len!:th o( the back, measure
the inside distance between the rear legs.
see HR. 25. Then measure the heiRhl (thick
ness) oi the case to determine the width of
the back. FInally. cut the back (J) 10size.

Since the legs protrude

1-11"(rom the back ofthe case. you need to lout
3 rabbet ulallt-aves a 1ts,t1lick
longue on the
edges of the back. CUI the rabbets On the
ends 10match the width o( the rear support
blocks. S(.'(! Fig. 25a.
Then cut rabbets along the topand bouom
edges of theback 0) to match the thickness
ofthe plywood in the case (W.), FinaDl'.l!luc
the back to the case.

n.sT ,,, APRON

StCTlON AND

Ro\B8ET EI)(;ES.

t ....

THlete

STRJPS UNOR CLAMPS KliP

ntlM tO,1T

OIST1111.1Tt PU,SSURE [VtNlY

2S

a.
C;,j,

~ 0

CUT !,Act( TO 1fT

BnwtfH LlGS

CUTAAa.ens

TO'"

11ilCKN.ESS

8AC~

CASE
lOP JlND

IOt;fOM

(1)
BAck

(~.nttCK
ft.lWOOO)

W,,,xlsmirh

Q)

Of PlYWOOD

24

CUTRAB8fT

---==.
'(

..i
~ <;

CUT (NO RA&SlTS

TO lNlCKNESS or
SUPPORT"lOCKS

No, 77

,.

TABLETOP
The last step is to
add the table top. I
mad" the top out of
cherry plywood. and
cove red the ply
wood edges with
strips of walnut. For
an accent, I also
added an inlay strip
of walnut along the perimeter OrlllC top.
TOP III,\NK. Slart work 00 Iheto!> (K). by
cutting a blank of .I"-thick plywood, see
Fig. 26. This blank is cut into a half-oval
shape SOit ....
;U overhanz the case by 1W.
Todo this. you couldmakeanewtemplate
that's 1\ri' larger than the one used (or
makiog the case, But there's an easier way
- just enlarge the size of the originaltem
plate onto the plywood blank by using acompass, we FIJI26. Now rough cut the top W'
outside of the pencil line.
That's greal {or gelting the lOP to rouKh
shape. But how do you use a router 10(rim
the top to final shape without a new ten..
plal~? Simpk:. Use a pilol suip to position
the bit th~ correct distanC<"(rom the (('01,
plate, see Fig. 200. (For more on thls, sec
Shop Notes. page 17.)
CllT GROOVE f'OR INLAV. Once you've
trimmed the top, the next step is 10 CUIa
groove for a top inlay strip (L). sec Fig. 27.
To do this. Iclamped the template 10 the lop
3J,'1lin.BUlthis lime mount a ~...' guide busninganda Vs"straightbil inlheroulenorout
a groove in the top, see Fig. 270. (For more
on guide bushings. sec page 31.)
INlA'. Afler routing the groove, an inlay
strip of walnut can be cur to fit, At (he same
lime, I cut the strips (or !he back trim (M)
and from trim (N) sincethey're allthe same
thickness (l;i;").
Rip the lOP inlay 10 V,'wide and glue il
inlOthe groove, see Step 1 in F'Jg. 28. (Note:
To make it easier 10 glue the inlay in place,
you ma)'wanlto plane_slight bcvelon each
face of the inlay.) \\'hen the glue dries, trim
the inlay flush with the top, (see box at bottom righl (or more on this).
TIUM.The next step is 10 glue on the back
trim (M). see Step 2 in Fig. 28. (I used tape
10 hold the strip ill place.) When the glue is
dry. cut the trim flush wilh the ends of the
top.Then.glue on the front trim (N).
AITACHT()P.Now the top can be attached
10 the case. Since both the top and the case
arc made from plywood (which WOO'I expand or contract with changes in humidity).
Isimply glued the top 10the case
To do this, position the lOPflush with the
back. and so il overhangs an equal amount
on both ends, sec Fig. 29.
fThlSH. After attaching the lOP,( sanded
the entire table and then wiped on one coat
of General Finlshes' Sealacell and two coats
of their satin Royal Finish lop coat,

No. 77

'''''"''.us

USE
TO DftA.W OU'TUNI1,,," URGIR
THAN TlMPlAn

ItOUGH
0UfSfD Of

CUT ~

CROSS SECTION

PfNCI. UNI

usc GUlOt IUSHtNG

OH Jtotnt:J,"TO ROUT
1'1" GROOvt.,
\
~ D(E9 rQlt INLAY

,"

GUIDE
BUSHING

&IT

,
I

,"

l(N4Pl,Att

28

TOP INLAY

ustTAPl

<p

TO MOlD TRIM
IN ~i.AC-.,

FRONT
TRIM

$
\

fiRST:

THIRD:

GWEIp.,(tAy

GWlnt.lM TO

'~GROO'"

FRONfmGf

AND ntlM fW$H

OF TOP

29

TRIMMING INLAY

~OlUrTOP

.-'

r-, ~

10 CAS!! ,

TO; ,"'- .j _

IOU..

I.~V
~

OV(RHANG

ON ao-n<
(NOS

i"- '"

"" f.>"

\.

..

!,.. '..
aACKtI)Gf

Of TOP TIlIM
tS'WSKWlTM
IACK.oFtASf

Wooc!sm'th

'AD
STltAIGMT NT -

INLAY STaJP

To t"im iil/IIJjwit}jOlit ~hipoq,t,tope p poir

pf pod$ cmto t/J~ )'!J1tter be&> with Zrpet
t.ape.1'Ir.en.(ldJlJ.~ta
$h'O.ight bitM it/sJll{$h
t(.ui< thellutfiJce,a>1drout l1i7tlo;vjlu~,-

25

COMMENTS

AND

QUESTIONS

Talkitlg Shop
GUIDE BLOCK POSITIONING

i.~,,"~
a/ mine Ihe thickness 01 the wood
xluno a that'scut,

workpiece as it's fed imo the

blade. This lets you compensate
Wood:~mith yOlt "tft'
flwthtxlfiJr r_wing woad""
At the same time. it allows you forblade lead (when 3 blade cuts
II" band ~au' .."mg a blort: to guide Ihe workpiece past the 10 one side).
BLOCK 1'OSl110:<. The guide
r./ampd aC""9.-id. th. blad.. blade - with one important
block should be positioned
Bllt I'm '101xuTI'i!owlopo:rilu))I differencefromaripfcDcc.SiDcc
it. Should the bl.orkbe ahead of, it's V'sltaped, you can pivot the about lIt6" ai.-ad of the front

Ln preuiov

direclly
In /ill'
1I';Ut, or belt;,,,!
IIt.'
ao It' blct de~
~I'.
A. Ttuisrn
Loyal.lI'iJJro".ill
A v-shapcd guide

f,T1'n
........
::::::r;
1

point of the teeth, This way the

block provides a swUng point
when you first fred the work inco
Ihe blade, see Fig. Ia,
The onc thing you don't want
10 do is position the guide be
hind Ibe saw blade, For the
guid~ block to be ef
[ective it should
guide the wood as

l1li.,.--------:::================:::,
r
y.lIlOCl< Ktl.PS

GUtOf WCNtKPffU

CI.

it's being cut -

PASt IU\Ot

"".trION

SAW8UO

IWXIt

'",-_

block serves two

differenl purposes
when you're resawiog stock on the
band saw. see Fig. I.
ram like the rip
fence on a table saw.
the position oi Ihe
block will deter-

OF BUlD(

not

afterwards.
Also, if Ihe guide
block ;S positioned
behind the blade,
and you try 10 pivot
the workpiece 10
compensate
for
blade It..ad, the
wood wiD bind between the blade and
Ihe guide block.

GUIDELINES FOR STORING LUMBER

Since I Yli'fd tl) build .()m~

crete basemen I or garage floor. store wood. But you might have
a problem if the attic is. lot drier
than your shop, "'hen you take
the wood down and start to use
it, it can expand as it adjuse.,.10
the extra moisture in its new.
more humid environment,
This is much like the problem
of bringing wood home from the
SlaCkingwood high enough off tumbervardandstartinztowcrk
the Ooor 10 allow air to move with il righl away. Sometimes
Creelyundemealh.
conditions in the lumber yard
There's no need to "sticker" are very different from your
these small amounts as is done shop. No matter where you get
when air drying or kiln drying your lumber, it's always best to
wood. ("Stickering" is the term let it adjust to the conditions of
used for stacking lumber with your shop for several days
slicksorstripsofwoodcarefully
before working' with it,
LllMBIiR RACKS. II you're
spaced between each board.)
Stickering increases the air going 10 build a wall rack thai
stores lumber hori20ntally. or
movement around the boardsa good Ihing for green wood, but sW'k lumber 00 blocks on the
not necessary once it's been floor, be sure the boards are
dried. Besides. it's a lot of welt-supported along their
trouble 10 do it right with small length. To prevent boards from
scraps of lumber, and suckered distorting (rom the weight of
wood takes up 0 lot more space. wood piled on top, I'd reeomATTICS ARt: DRY. Attics and mend that you space brackets Or
lofts arc often good dry places 10 supportsno more u,an32" apart.

(I<mber storage racks ill i>IY II may look Oaland dry, but consllf)p,l'm lookingforwardloChe crete is moist and porous, Mois.... IUl" o/tlte u'OQd .,/oruge eo- ture can pass through concrete
and "wick" into your lumber.
I~.~t
almollnce</ ill \Voodsmith
Under damp or wet condiNo. 7~.I'm '''p8Cially intereeted in u-oay[) to store S'J}1.a11 tions. wood can warp. And ifldt
loog enough. damp wood can
(J '11h1{"'.~()fl"lnb(7alld ~p..(f.
,,/'_ks tel! 1/"", III store rot. So I always make a point of

[A".
hundred3 0/ board feet, but
0"" says what 10 do WIth th
i!lIOr( ''''if.AllY idoox?

,II)

Oreg Scherer

Unl{/ lake, ,Ifi'l1IesQta

The results of the wood storage

contest on pages 28 and 29 of
this issue will give you some
specific idea. on how to store
small (or large) amounts of
wood. Inadditioo. here are some
Ileneralguidelines.
Small amounts of dry lumber
are besl storediusuhe way most
of us do il- infairly neal piles.
KEEP OFF A.OOR. Probably
the most important thing you
can do with scraps and small
pieces of stock is 10 keep them
off the Door. especially a con-

26

W..xxism ith

STORAGE 1IO."'ES. For short

pieces of wood. you mlghl try
storing them On end in box.
This takes up less space and you
can tell at a glance how long the
individual pieces are. Then you
won't hoyt' to $(11\ through the
pile to find one th~ right length.
~"TORiNGPLYWOOD.Plywood

usually gelS stacked on edge it lakes up a lot less space thai

way, I try to make" stand up as
close to vertical as possible (and
o(! the floor, too). Too much lean
ean bend it. especially if other
sheets are stacked with it. And If

it's len thai way long enough. it

lIIay nOIGanen outagain,

Of course, you can store plywood Oat, but it docs take up

more space. To avoid distortion.

be sure it's well-supported,

MARK SIZJo;S. One other sug-

gestion. Imakes pointof writing

the type and size on the end
grain or each piece of wood and
plywood. This saves a lot ohime
when searclting for a piece to fit
a particular need.

No. 77

e.

IIIlO8L1M't QUEmON'
Solving a problem (or
ovOidingone inth e fJl'StPl1lCe)
is part 01 every proicct- Bul
the best solutions aren'tn~
ways obvious - they ollen
come from one whO'$ raced
the problem before.
Ifyou have a problem, solu-

---------------------------------...,

SLOWSEftING

GLU

Anolller option would be to

use a bide glue or a powdered
o!lW!~mbly thai m",,1 be OOnP plastic (urea-formaldehyde)
resin glue. Both of these glues
01",,<time. nlll wht'll {ltselle/
101<k'oodll'Ol'kcrB' gil"" il ..,., set up slower than yellow glue
1/1' /lfJfnre 1<at! gel all tlu parts andarejuSlasstrong. (Hide glue
lJJgellt"". 1. there a .Iou..". .et and plastic resin glue are availa""yglur thai ha the .'rttl!gth 0/ ble at most hardware stores.)
yl'(lmvgl/(~?
Garrett Wade (161 Ave. of the
Ameeicas,
New York. NY 10012;
,Ul'luill lrillio"U!
.1118/1OI<"'ka,Indiana
800-221-29-12) sells a -Slo-Sel"
There are a c.'Oupleof glues you glue that gives you more work('3J] use in Illis situation, \Vhen
ing lime (20 to 30 minutes). but
everwe have problems getting a still achieves 75\11 of its sltength
complicated glue job together after clamping for 30 minutes.
quickly, we Q<ually switch from
nnrrrs CUiE. The other thing
yeUowwoodworkers'gwe (such you ('3J] do is thin Titebond yelas Tliebond or Elmer's Carpent- tow glue with about 5t water
ers'l!lue) 10. white all-purpose (one part water to twenty pans
glue (such as ~1mer's GI~AlI).
glue), explained Dennis Doyle

of the Consumer Products Lab

for Franklin Industries. manufacturer ofl'ltebond glue. That
will slow the set time about ~
When I asked Dennis if this
would affect the strength, he
said. "II won't have any signifi
cam e!fect 00 me strength olthe
glue joinl as long as you don't
mix in more than 5% water."
ATEST. To test this, I glued up
threesetsofbcards, The first set
didn't have any water mixed in
with the glue. The second set
had 5% water, and the third set
had 10'1 water.J didn't stick the
boards together rigbt away but
leI them sit open.
As expected, the first board
got tacky within minutes, The

RIGHT SIDE OR LEn SIDE?

Etoery picture r"f ,~el'lloj a the blade with the

icy 01 table saw rip fences (in-

SOllie of ttre mor~ eomplirated proj<cts/ build lIa.,' a lot

opposite

hand, see Fig. 3. You won't be

able to safely sec the blade at all
times. And at the same time, you
bittlally 11O"itjOlllhc1I1Orkp;ccc won't be pUlling enough prestoli,~1<1/1 oflhe blade, "~i,,g ntu sure against the fence as the
le/l hand ora pu.1t stick. 1.this workpiece is pushed through,
(l harlJ1Jt'S$ idio.Ii(Yltcrarll
or
ONE PiWtu.E.'l. The only disffllf)III(11 U1PJld l1lY II.UYS?
advantage Iseeloworkinglo the
Gil Sin, bel leftof the blade is that the major
table

~ho, lI't
workpUce UII lilt rig/a of the
blode(Il:/I o/Ihe rip/t'>lce).1 ha8011'

in

('/,;:!'T1j

,.

IIHe

ma~"e (oranothcrJ'e'dder)
can help, J USl write 10
Wu.mmith. Talking Shop.
2200 Crand Avenue, Des
Moin~.I()wa50312
second board tooka fewminutes
longer. And Illeglueon the Ihird
board was too min and runny.
Mer the glue Joints were pul
together and allowed to dry, I
broke the joints apart. The 10'1
board broke auhe glue line. but
the other two pulled splinters
from both sides of the glue line.
That's the Sign of a good glue

joint - one where the glue is

stronger than Ille surrounding

wood fibers

ably reads from I,,/tto-right and may 001 be reversible,

cludingmanyafter-marketfence
Regardless of which side of
systems) are designed to move
further to the right man the left. the rip fence you use,don 't stand
This means you won't be able dircctlybehind the workpiece as
10 cut as wide a board [0 the left you rip en the table saw. If a
as to the right of me blade.
workpiece should ever bind beAlso, if the from gulde rail for tween the blade and the fence, it
your rip fence has a measuring may be thrown back and could
tapeanached to it, the tape prob- cause a serious injur')'

Hill, New Jer.elf

I don't see any problem with

working 10 the left of me blade,
You should do whatever feels
comfonableand safe for you.
Right-handed woodworkers
usually feel more comfortable
working with the stock to the
righl of the blade (and left of the
fence) because they can use
their right arm to beuer control
the workpiece. see Fig. I.
And most left-handed woodworkers I know learn 10 work
right-handed. That is, to the
right 01 Ille blade. But SOmeare
more comfortable working 10
the left of the blade. see rig. 2.
Safety Notc: If you can't
switch hands comfortably .don'
reach over the (ence or across

No. 77

tion.qoes\ion,oreveoagrlpe,

~I

cIft
,~
~! \..

,-.

RIGHT
HANDED

Most n.ght-honlhld IIJorker8

pottitiOfI t/'~riPJ'<rn:6tl)Iheriglll
oft/Ie blade. Tllis wo.ythey ca1l
starni to o,,~ sidr and safely
Yllilk II", IIwk tI,rough the cut.

LEfT-

INCORRE<:T

HANDED

If you do plact lit_felIce toth~

posil i01l lite fence 10 Ih. IRJIof left ofllti!blade. doll ~ rwc/, o.ter
.<fthyourrightharni to push the
Ute 8<110 blnde. 8111thi co."'imit
Ihe .idU, 0/cut s.i"ce moetfeuce piece t/trough. YOIlmay not se
ro,lsertend/nrtlterl1l
tJte ng/lL tile blade at aU times,

Some lefthanded

WooJsnllth

ioorker

27

S HOP

TIPS

CONTEST

Wood Storage
W

hen the lips starred

coming in (or our wood
storage contest. it was obvious
rna! almost C'\'e!'Y woodworker
has differing storage needs -

usually dependent on IheiT

interests and the size 01 their
shops.

,,7jm rnal in mind.

we

looked (or ideas that were

adaptable 10 many situations,
rwo.r-mr S'STE~f. Our
faVOrit("WH~the-design sent in b)'
Richard Schillingol Falmouth,
Maim-. It's. two-pan system
that stores boards 00 shell
brackets suspended Irnm the
ceiling, and a rolling cart (or ply
wood lhalpark~behind the-shelf

chopping out mortises. it's ea.sier to CUI matching dadoes in

pairs ol2xfs far the posts. S('('
Fig, 2. Then Illue a pair oi 2x4's
together to create the mortises
tor the brackets,

The brackets can be glued

into the mortises. or pinned with
removable dowel"
PL.YW()()) CAKr. To store ply'
wood. a rollinB cart Is built 10 fil
behind the poSIs,

The 1)lywaod cart is made

from eighL2x4's. see Fig.1.11,."
cart is designed so large sheets
lean ajlainst the anld.'<! outsid
braces, whilethe ..naller pieces
fil bel ween the braces,

1
lOll POSTS to JOISTS
WJTtflAG 80ltS

SHIll BUCKElS

$TOstE
ROWNG PlYWOOD
CAll 81H1HO

!tACIC

posts, sec Fig. I.

SIIEL\1NG UNlT The

shelving

unit is built from pairs of 2x4'5

(or the posts, and brackets CUI

from 2x6s.
The shell brackets are cut 10
length first, with the bottom
brackets 27111"long. and all
others 2311!".Then the bouom
edge o( each bracket is tapered
to a triangular shape, see ~ig.
3.
The brackets are mounted to
the posts by cuuing tenons on

GWtlWO
2x4.
-TOOnHbt

O.

aonoM SUpPORT

fOR
EACHPO$T

the hack edgt', Uust cut a shallow rabbet on both sides or the
brackets. see Fig. 3.)
111(' tenons fil into mortises in
the posts, However, instead of

AIM 2.4". (4I,L

OnwtSlO~

2'

$100 CONTEST
SHOPMADI CLAMPS
\\11Illdo yuu doii you don't have
('Ilough clamP!' or can't find the
rWtl kind of damps for 11project? Ma!<t>yourown.Uyou have
piau' or idea. lor shop-made
clamps. tellus about them,
\\'e'll publish the best shopmade clamp dl'1;ignS in "" up.
coming issue of 1I'(IO.""tI~
Winners "~11roceil;e $100 and a

Woods",ifh Mas;erTrySqllare,
Duplicate or slmilar entries will
be Con";dl'r<:d in the order we
receive them. Send your ideas
(postmarked by November 1.
1991)t,o 1I'oad$)nith. Shop'lip~

SHllllaA(lCn
2.6

Cut NOTCW(S
IffORE
GLUING

ROlliNG

PLYWOOD CART

fNDVllW
10 CUTON lOP AND
_

aonOM Ql"8RA(.lS

$'rOA't SHORT

PlK(S urwtEN

.,.

ANGW>
IIlIACI

lACK
8!tACE

IItAW ....

Contest, 2'>..00 Grand Ave.. Des

Moines, Iowa 50312.

28

Wood;llll[h

No.7i

PLYWOOD RACK
Surting through ,;h."'I~ of ply

wood leaning 011 edge again,1 a

wall can be difficult,You have 10
hold up the sheets in front to get
auhose behind. ByIlle lime you
get three or four sheets into the
pile. you're holding quite a load.
Vin Brnico of Enfield. Connectieut solved lhis problem by
building a rack that holds up the
from sh.'C1Sas you search behind.see Fig. 1. And he can load

ItEMOVE En lott
ANO SWJNC 4ttMS

HfAvrourt
HlNGIS-""_

--

_.
-

UP TO OPEN ~CK

IlACI(
SUPPORT

mid rewove patl~beasily.

Whal makes this mel, unique

is the rack support attached 10
the hingt-d gate. see Fig. la.
\~lth the gale held open by the
rack support. sheetsin frontlean
against the gale as you sort

through the sheets behind, And

the rack support folds against
the gale when the rock is dosed.
The Ifdle is hold in the closed
position by IWo arms mal are

GATt

NOTli:

OPtflrl

GAT.HtD

RACK &OL.'JU)

UPRJGHT Ir

fOWAJ,l

RAC
SUPPORT

,AND H.OOR

CHAIN

the wall, SIJ Fig. I. The arms

lock emo the j!ale with pinned
slip-tenon loims, To open the
rack. removerhe pin (a boll) and
push thearmupagains; tile wall.

BUNGEE CORDS
Storing lumber and pl)'Wood
on end against a wall or between
studs savesspace-e-but howcan
you keep them from rallin!:over
without building a big rack?
Stephen A. Jorgensen
of

rs

49"

hinglod toamountingbrackeron

a.

PLYWOOD WHfN

SPRING POLE
Ne.xI. to keep the boards organized in neal vertical piles. he
glued rw'-diamclcr dowel. at intervals into the lx4s. SI.'C FIg. la,
Then he installed eyelets (or the

Here's another good way 10

1
keep plywood Slacked neatly
against a wall - use a spring
pole. see Fig. L Andre Camire
of New Bedford.
Massabungee cords 10book on.
cbusetts uses [his method \0
Bungee cords arc available in hold sheets of plywood in his
Grand Prairie. Texas uses
bungee cords.
h=.,---.
many diifercnllenRih. at hard- wall storage rack.
Since hissilop isin hisgarage, ware and ouldoorsopply stores.
Andre'sspringpolcsaremade
Jloor space is at a premium. So Gel cords that arc about 25~ from two pieces of conduit, one
he buill a "rack" o( lx4 pine shorter than the distance be- wilh an outside diameter just
board, anchored horizemally to tween eyelets when loose. This small enough so it fits inside the
NAIL
tile wall with eounterbored lag way.they11be lighl between the other. The larger piece is
bolts, see Fig. 10.
eyelets and hold lots (If wood.
plugged about a quarter o( the

SPitiNG
way down from the lop and a
spring is dropped in.see Fig. ta,
1
The 'mailer diameier ~nnduil
(you could use a dowel instead)
slides into UICbottom piece and
SlOPS against the spring.
To use the spring pole. the
spring iscompressedsc the pole
is short enough to iii between
IWO brackets mounted horizonIaUyfrom a wall. post, or stud, ').I._..IL--,=~
see rig. I.Then the ends of Ihe
pole are set into correspondtng
MOUNT
holes in thr upper and lower
lYnET'
IRINGH
brackets. When released. the
eursree
C""O
~.~..peWItS \(J;lP OFDOWns
;;prin!:tension locks the pole be""_$~ARAm>
tween the brackets.
No. 77

29

TOO

l S

oF

THE

TRADE

Flush Trim Bits

T

be key to using a router to cut shapes.

like the arched case on the Tambour
Clock (pa~ 6) or the tOP of llw CurvedFront Table ~
18), isn't In the router,
The secrer ism the bil-a nush trim biL
A flush trim bit has a cuning edge that's
aligned (Oush) with 3 ball bO!aringguide on
the end of the biL see bit on th~ left in photo,
As the bearing runs along a template, the bit
cuts the edge otan adja(enl workplece to the
exact same shape. sec rig. I.
rouowrsc A TEMI'!ATE,It's the perfect
bit to use with templates. It you cut the ternplate to the deslred shape, you can duplicate
lhat shape any number onimes.
To do this, first cut out the template to the
desired shape. Then lay the template 00 tbe
workpiece and draw a penciltine areund the
template onto the werkpiece.
'low use band saw or sabre saw to cut
out the workpiece about""" tothewasteskle
of the line. N~"t. attach tho template to the

piece to the same shape as the template.

(Note: !fyou usea hand-held router, thetemplate will have to be fastened 10 th~ Ixllf<)",
of the workpiece. \\'llh a router table, as
shown in rig. I. the template is mounted on

a substrate like plywood or particleboard, a

flush trim bit can be used to trim the laminate perlctt1y flush with the substrate,
P,\1TERNlilT. Flush trim bit' are great for
following templates or trimming laminates.
top oflhe workpiece.)
BUI wbat if you want toplungcthe flush trim
GUIDE BUSlnNGS? Why do I need a flush
bit into the center of a workpi(,<:~to rout a
trim bit? Can't I jusl use 3 straight bit and mortis. or form a reee ..' for an inlay? Won't
follow thetemplate with a routcrguide bush- the bearing get in the way? Yes. Then it's
ing? You can - but this call gClcoofusing.
timE' to consider a slil!h~y diif"rent bit -.
To determine the size of the template. you pattern biL (See opposite p"l(efor""urcesof
have 10 measure the distance between the both flush trim bus and pattern bus.)
outside edge of the bushing and the cutting
The ball bearing on a pattern bit is
edge of the bit. Then subtract this distance mounted un the ,haft rather than on theclId
from the desired size ofthe workpiece to find of the bit. see bh en the right in photo. I\llh
the size o[ the template. (This process is the bearing on the shar~ a pattern bit can be
shown in Fig. 27 on P'l8c 25.)
plunged into a workpiece. see r,g, 2,
That's the advantage oCa flush trim bitThere'sone tbingyou do have to take into
it wiU CUl the exact same size as your tem- consideration when plUDgiogwith a pattern
plate. Whatever size and shape you make bil- the depth of cut. For a shaJlow mortise
the template, that's the identical size and or recess, you have to add a spacer between
,hape of your final workpiece.
the template and the workpiece. see rig. 2.
workpiece, (Iuse double-sided carpertape.)
TRIMMtNGLAMtNATESANU \'ENEER.'i.
Pattern bits can also be used like ceavenTo trim the workpiece to final size, mount Though I like to use a flush trim bit to follow tional flush trim bits to trim outside edges to
a nush trim bit in the router or muter table a template, they're also commonly used 10 the sameshapeas a template, see F'IR,3.But
and raise the bit so the ball bearing"iU run trim plastic laminates (such as on kitchen I usually use a pattern bit in B hand-held
awtinstthetemplate, S(,'C rig. 1.Then, as you countertops) and veneers, Altff an over- router only .On a routertable, iI'Ssafertouse
rout, the cutting edge ,,;11 trim the work- sized piece of laminate or veneer is glued to 3 Bush trim bit with the bearing on the end.

FLUSH

TRIM

BIT

PATTRN

I'

ltMPLAJI

BIT

..
i'ii'

flALl

'(A.tHO

BEARING
_MOO1W

$PACm

WOR.KP1lC[

- -

IAU

)..

'"

TAAU

,- .

'1

,~

alTwm<

woalCPtta

USEPATTIRN

lfMPLAf't

OOUTElt

HAHDHOD
ItOUTIJt

WORKPIECE ./

SHOPMADE PAl I ERN 811

Hyou don't have 2 nosh trim or paltprn hit,
it's still pos.ibJe to rour shapes u<jug the
te<:hnlqueexplainedabove. You can convert
a straight bino worklike a pattern bit- just
add aballbearingguide and retaining collar,
see drawing at right and Sources, page 31.
To convert a "lJ1ljgbt bit into a pattern bit
use a ball bearing with an i""i(U di:lmeter
thatmatches the shaltofthe'lraighrbit.and
an QI!(k/1fr diruneter the '!'IDleas the ctlUing
dirun~er of the straight bh, Then, 10 kC<.'P
the bearing from ~Iidjng on the shaft while
Wu'~ routing, a ret;lining- ~Qllar ",th a set
:;creWltts on the shillt behind the bea,rin!t.

30

The....~r' 3 rollpl .. thi!lP" tn k<'t'pin mind

when using a concerted slr.ught bit fUI pat'
tern routil)j[.Flrsi.a straight bitcan measure
a f~w Iho~sandths of an loch III rg< r than lIS
nominal diameter (to allow for Sharpening).
Also, there's a larger fiUct on a StraiKhI bit
than on a pauern bit (5<.., drawing).
So to prevenllhe larg~r-diam~t"r CUtlers
from routing into Owtemplate. keep thetemplate separated from the workptece by "
spacer, refer to Fig. 2. above. And if your
wOrkpiece is thk kerthan the bit is long, <vut
the pattern in several passes-justl'edure
the Ihidmess of the spacers between cuts.

\VnoJsmtth

S11WGHT
OIT

1AU../
IUAING
RTAiNING

COUAJt

tl'-==-Jf1i~~:
~'llUT

Nll, 77

ECT

PRO

SUPPLIES

Sources

rro

(I) 51i$'Oia.Bra" and Glas<

nut Plywood
make CaS(>
Bezel with Roman NUIIl<-ral Top and Eod veneer, see page
\Yoodsmilh I'mjcet Supplies
16(or more 00 making these.)
Dial and MOUllIbIK Brad-- IlW
is o((~rinll quartz (batteryPre-Pllllchedfor MOvc1n~n1
WaJnu~
operated) and k~ywind move- Special BuUding and Mount 77722SSolid \Valnul (or
mrnl kilo rorlh,' l"ambourClock
ing tnstructions (or Kl'ywind Tambour Clock
SI2.95
shown on P<1l:I'6. Both kits inMovem ent (~Ole: Don't sIan (1 pc.)~'x5"x
19"for Base
buildlOl! the clock until you've (I pc.) :}," x 7' x 51-'!' (or Dour
dudl' the hlltdwnre 10 build the
dock and ,I palkm of the remread !he se instnKhon<.)
(1lX'.) ~. x 3' x.8W' (or Filler-.
p!a1<'lo mak,lh. trent and bkk.
wooo. To make thc Tambour .(1 pc.) ~,'x
1~I.. x9"(orF('t'1
Triangu1arShaped Trim
"011- \\'ood is nol included in Clock. > OIl could I!lu~ veneer or
either kit \\ re oUennl! the 6ex.ible-backed veneer ever 1M 777250ClockTrim_SS.95
"ood and veneer for the trim lOpand~ One (l<oblt-m,.ith (I pc.) ~ x 12" WalnUI Paper
separau I) Itt' belo....
backed Burl \'eneer
using lIcxi~ll'bkked".,_. "
I!oth kits ndud< Ih e follo,, thaI the cloth tor pap<-r baclunll .(1 pc ) Wx4'x I2"Sotid\"'I1
nul lL...-d.,. base (or venec....
will be exposed 011 rhe Iron I
ing hard" art.
.(2) lira"'" Hll1J.tfS. Jx Iedges of thr- dock Saun',"" 01 "'-e p;,~eII)
(1) Build (alch with Screw
veneerare listedin Ih,' AIt"male'
.OUTDI8ns
Catalog Se...1ion b.-l,,\\
(l) !,.-zoo Bra" Knob
(I) Ful~~ir.e "altern of Front
On pQJIe,. 610 II ""'d"",ribt'<l We used a few _perial carl"d eand Back Template and Trim
howtomakeUleTarnbourClock
lipped roul~r bils for Ihl' proQuam Movemenl
from plywood and solid "-lock. jl"t- in thi' i<<ue '1wy're avall
777100TrunbourClock
\\'c're off"ring Ihe wainul pi)" able (rom \Voodsmilh Project
Quant \lovemcnlKiI .....S24.95 wood and also the solid walnut. Supplies orthe <'aUlIOl!<
below.
AIl Hardware and Pauern (Note: Though U,.
Robbennll
Bib
01pl~
li'll-d Above
wood will be fairly c1"~h' colur ISI4400 "," RabbttioI! Bit.
.(1) Quant Clock Movement matched. the solid ,lock ""'Y be h' -hank .
-S2' Q,
(.\A baltrl)" nOIincluded)
sligluly darker >inc~walnut pI) 1512-450~' RabbelJJlR
Bit,
.$.."6.95
(I pr.) RI.1t.k
S<rpentine Hands wood tends 10be liJlht....incolor W' ,hank
Xote These bil' come .. ilh a
(1) S~Ilia. Bra', and GJ.r;< than <oUd"-lock I()ou WllIll.\00
can
<lain
them
an
lhe
same
)
bt>arinl!
10CUia W'....;t!e ~I
Bezel
Koman :\umeraI
IlW and ~founUngIlt:od,
:\ote You will ..bo need ~,' unly. To CUI a 1I,",id...rabbet.
\lasonile for II,, I"mplal~ and abo order the follo..-m~beving.
1\(0)"';00 \f""emml
777150 TambourClock I\e)"
ca.<etop. Tht:'('an' nol includcd. 150 1155 \ " Rabbning &ar.
..ind \I"\emrnIKiI .......$119.95
"'alnul Pl)wood
Ing. ~6"Insid.. Diametr. l'.'
.AIl Hard"a,,' and Paller.
777200 1\'3Inull'l)"1I.oOO lor
OUlside Oi.1Jnetcr ....... .$5.95
TambourClo.:k .__ ... 521>.9;
Ij"I4.'<I \))c)\'('
Trim 8ib
(2 pc ) 1." x 7(,' x III", \\.1 151<1
..885 W' flu<hTrim Bil.
(1) 1\(')'WindClock Mo'<meo~
GunKs un hour and hal( hour.
nul I'lywood (To Mak(' Ih.. I' Cut, It," Shank
$15.95
Front
and
lla,'k)
ISI2887
~t
FlushTrim
Bit.
Key inelud.od
(1pc.) :Y1"x41~'x25v,'.Wal
I" CUI ~"Shank
$17.95
(I pr.) Ulack Hands
TAMBOUR CLOCK

I~'''''''

'''I~

"'ush

C.,..

ORDER INFORMATION
To order 1' mail. use the form
.11CIo&-d....ilh cum.lll".;ue_
The order ronn Includes inf<>r
mation on handling and >hippmg ch:!rlli'$. and ,;ale, 1llJC..
St.'Dd ) our mall order 10:

\\Oocbmilh 'rolt:'C1 Supp1ie6

l~(). llox 10350

Ot.1I'101""" lA 50306

N,).77

For (a,u:-st scr.'a use our1 on

Free order Iinc ()pcn ~Ionday
through Frida), :; 00 AM 10

5:00 PM c.:cnlt3l rune

Berorc caUiIl)!. bavl' ) our
YlSA. Ma'l~r Card, or DisCO,<lt Can! read)

1-800-444-7002
.,.~

bJf'(t II)f"Mrtgf
0.11..-Dfmbu.IR91
Pntl.!&'

V.

'II.

GUIDI aUSHINGS

You11RIt-d a W' guide bushing

10Ill"ke Ihe Curved-From Table
top from rh e template You
<hould be able 10 buy bushings
for your router from the deale!'
wbo <!Oldyou the router
A uni,cl"!tal base plate .,.;th
bu,bing, 10 fil mo<1 popular
round bao;e roulers is available
from\Voodsmith Project SuppUC'<.nd th~Sources below
I:n;''('rsaJ Bushing Sel
5503106 tJniven;a) Rouler
Guide BushingSeI.. ....... $15.95
(I) Plastic Base Plale That filS
Mosl Round Base Roulers

Guide Bushings: fI'l6".7/16"

Shon. 7/}6" I...onll.and~'" I)ia.

(4)

ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES

8Y PHONE

BY MAIL

Pattern Bits
151 "160 J,.'z" Pattern Bit
(bearing on lOp), I" Cutting
l.enKlh. 114" Shank
822.95
\Y~recommendusingthc patIt'TTlbu above as an easy way 10
make duplicate shapes. But we
menuoned al the bouom of the
oppo,ile page that you can abo
makeapallt'TTl bil "ithastraigbt
bit. bearin~.andcolJar. Sowe'~
oIf,-ring the bit and partS:
lSI ,643W Suaigbt Bit l'
CuI. , Sh..nk _ ..__ ....$13.95
150 1206 Ball Bearing.
In 1>.a.. 1o' OuL Dia .........$4.95
150 1308 Retaining Collar
,"In. l>ia..
OUL Oia..S2.95
Inlny Bil
1511-603 It." Straighl Bit. V,"
Shank. ~b"D(-epCul......$10.95

~ ,,,,,In, h(J-rdu.~rt.'GIld aUI1p(tl'tf" tly belOlt",i ,,, tJ/~joilOtl'tlfg

tIlIW'11". Plto,'" coil tod. """ fltln I},,,.o totalog a. ",lonIlJlIU",.
loa. _ ....

.....
=-..,
at'~'r
__ "ill
..,,~

CJGd

.......

"ood ~;"'"'
.......
......"..
,~
I'fptrDI...~
n.ri ~"""'lIb.
~~S#"f

r~

1Mports.1DC'.
")!0-541-fJ,

( 'f. ,.. ""..

1.nC'bftl~
Yt 'orks.t.op.
1I'.,... ttJ~
Rn.tIT
u (; "B llllf~

W.,.hmtth

--..~-"I'I~~

n...-,t

11 " II1,.a4

~I

r,otl: J/"u.r ........

I'vta.. ~"

"

.~

V.oodailft
~lJ$3

q..1"rrri 1( ....
,.., t,lJ:...', .."V
~tU."S.LAcL

"'1~5

" 'II,. If u

~i"
..
IV\.."..-..u-;s..;;6

...

~~r;.,.w,

....

",

T""" I.-.

8')')o.?if ~
IlDaXF Btu. (f.:JiIIr B...

....

M~ItanJ-WC'
""J.0.441-._m
flo IJ Uc: d JI
1M"'~Scoft
6lZ~1~
~~Z

CIot'J,:

'tItI

.w.o."..........
,.mlll.

~f'IWr. Np,oJW.

H.",..sw"

31

LAS

LOOK

Final Details
Curved-FrontTable

" Tile apron (ill this Cur,)edPronl Tabl. i made fry illlagB. B"I .<1(' ued a difl"" III t, r/"'''I"' thnt' <1,111
kerf bendingchf!rry plywood. ThewpeTedregsmay ullyeasier. Thecoreofeach wg1$ rhrrr!1 willi
Wok Ilk,thry.,...madefrom.8oild Itui>wll<'illl rherry II1lay$ III tlu: tnp. bottom. and alollg th, I dg,

""1,,,,'

Tambour Clock

FlushTrimming

" A dn"' ... tit_ bork a//l1P Tambonr CIMk ali"",/;

a("ce.~~
to tll(' work. The toast i$ :fi.:.ed/Or(l ouartz or
lieYl('i,ut mooemeut .'ilit gtJ'lg (SllOU.Jll }rrrc).

32

.. Afl/~.slllril)~bit 1" 'hI' TOIl terlah/I" (, t.f,; IfOll ~h(tIIf"

a IL'QtkpieC'cto matcn a iemplnte. ShOll'1t here ;.., tIft'
curved back pkce/or tJu: Tambour C/(Jr.k.

\'(Ioodsml[h

."oJ. -1/....

"-'