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NO.

75

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$3.95

EDITOR'S

june, 1991

No. 75

COLUMN

Sawdust
Editor Donald B. P.,...bke
Oe<lJIIII>inct....Ted KnIIjeek
Managing EdIt.". Dou~
(.. Hicl<s
MsociateEditor TonyJ. SbvIunan
,,"";~IIF.dilJ>'" J"",.> ~1.
Dolan
Richard S. P"'_
(,,,,rdon Goippe
Proj-.'d OelJIp....r KeD Munktl
lliUSlnloN>D.. id KreyIing
CaryChriste~n

Rod Stoakes
Chris GI....... 1ri
Dirk Ver Steeg
Kurt Schull%

CirculalionOirec;lJ>rIJzBred.eson
SubscriptionMBnager Sandy &um
:-r""...tBndSales Kent A. Bu.kton
Grophlcs Director Jon Snyd~r
Projo.'CI SuppUos kslit Ann Gemhart
UndaJones
Wa.rcl1ouse J~ carson, Supv,
GlorinSh_n
RolUlld Long

Dnvid StoUI
C~Qml...SI,_1"Vi.ce-Mgr. UncL'l ~torrow
CustomerSenice Jennie Enos

Janice. K.et$tD\'t!:
C en e1I. BraJl'lOll
Mi. Smith
Robertll RUM!)

Jo)' Johnsen

ConlJ1lllcr Paul E. Gmy


~1dc .. pil18 Una O'Rourke
Nt>t\\'()rk:Administrator OouAlas ~I.
Udster
Administrative A$bL Ch(!ryl A. Scott
Sourcebook

J ITi.Jyn Pross
Jelln My.....

Shop MIlD3g\.'" s.e,'e CurtL'<;

Buildil18Moiotenlll1<C Ken Griffith


AtdIie NaU)le
Stu"' MIII1lII!......
1>c$~I.incs, 1A Mnt Wel.h
Berkeley,CA ~fi.had D<>Ha'''In

"L~

few years ago we remodeled the old

carriage house Ihnl


behind our
officebuildinjl. ;';1)" weusetheground noor
as a photo studio. and the upper Ooor as a

conference center
In the process of remodeling, we decided
10 tearup parior the ",,<kinKlol between the
two buildings anti put ln agarden.It's filled

with flowers-annuals
and perenn.ialsand
roses. And there's. brkkwalkwayand patio
area that .igzag. through tll~ garden 10
connect the twu buildings.
So, what does all of this have to do with
woodworkinll?
The patic is a gnoat 1)1a!:~I() relax, But
there was 110 where to ,iL So last year we
built some outdoor furniture - an Adiron
dack chair, a malching seuee, and a patio
table. (The photc on the cover o(
IVoodsmitl, No. 69 shows this hlmilu"... jn
tile patioarea in iront oftltc.;arriagc heuse.)
I had all the best inlenlionsor mOvillJllhi,
furniture inside last winter - bul didn't
quite make it before 111('fil'S1 ""'ow
\VeD. I thought. maybe thl> is a good Op'
ponunlty to see how .....d .. ood turnltunweathers the winter.

It made il okay ... but the wann redwood


to an unpleasantgray, Another
good opponunily, Ithoughl, 10"''\' how to
colortumcd

restore the color to redwood (urnitur<


''lith summer jusl around the-corner, 1'1"
set to work c1eaoing the furniture "ilh TSP
and oxalic acid. I hadn't dune thls before.
and was frankly a link> skepdcal that this
process would restore the redwood color
without having 10 sand down to new wood.
It turned out gre.~After refmiMing il
with a mixture of spar varnish and oil, it
looks like aged redwood - deep rich red
color rather than gray (more like the way
cherry ages).
PATIOTAIU'' About the same lime I was
workJng on this refinishing project, we
started 10 g-et. batch o( requests for plans
(or a patio or picnic table - usually aceompanied with the suggestion to "make it
dim-rem titan the typical 2x6 (construction
lumber) tablcsfound in most Slate parks."
So we decided to add to our collection o(
outdoor furniture with an ocllJ,gcmal patio
table, \Ve ineorporat~d an easy-to-make version o( monise and lcnon joinery on this
table. Basically, you create the mortise by

\Vood,mith

cuuing dadoeslntwo boards and join them


logctbl'r 10 produce the mortise.

Forth. cther outdoorprojectin this issue


(the (annal planl<!tS), Iswitched 10 a more
typical way ot making a mortise - using a
driU press to rough out the mortise, and
cleaning il up with a chisel, Then I cut the
tenons on a table saw.
But in the middle of this process, I decided irwould be (un 10 do a lillie hand work.
Igot oul my mortise chisels and chopped
away at the mortises (or a second planter.
J.-\PAl'''ESE SAWS. To cut the tenons. I
reached (ormy dozukisaw.lt'sa oiccwayto
cut tenons. And lthoughl it was aboullimc
we talked about the various Japanese saws
we use-e-especially for delicate joinery.
AUin aU, it's odd 10 dunk that this whole
issue actually SW1ed when I (O<gOtIOmove
the redwood furniture inside for the winter.
I'F.\I P'~CES. 1.<I$tyear we produced our
Iir st calalog - offering supplies (or
11'0011",,"/10pmjecls and back issues, At
that time
wert' able to store all of the
inventory in about 1,500 square feet of the
basement of our siore here in Des Moines.
That didn't last long. Now we've moved
into (and just about liUf'() 9,000 square
fool W;U'l'IIOUM' And w c veenlisted the aid
III ":.''1111 ctwtgclic peoplt'- Jerry, Gloria.
Run anti Dave -to pock and ship orders.
They've invited me 10 the warehouse to
work with them fora day. I'm not sure if they
jllst wanted me around for my sparkling personaUty,orifthcythoughtl might beableto
lose. ft'w pounds uying to keep up with
their pace.
liEU' W."-1I,'fD). In the last issue. 1 mentioned that we were looking {oreditors and
a marketing dlrector 10 fill positions avallable here at Woodall/itlt.
In addition, we're also in need of a project
designer. \Ve're looking {or someone who
can design furoitureprojects, aswell as projects for the shop (jigo and shop storage
projects). This position willalso require the
abilily to do the Iype of technical iIIustralions shown in WoodJImitlt.
I(you'reintcrested, write toTed Kralil:ek,
Design Oirt'clor, ll'ond>tmith, 2200 Grand
Ave.. Des Moines. TA50312. Ted wm send
more information aboulthe job.
NEXTISSI'. TIle next issue of WoodIt'" illl .. ;uarrive in late Julyoreariy AuguSL

w.

No.75

LOOK

INSIDE

Contents
ITips & Techniques

I. f4l
Six tip from fellow It'oodworker.~:
L!J 11 Thi/'d Balld/il/' I1/oullting
1)

Router Bi. 2) SCLI!' Sladi' GlI(II'Ci~, :1) .d


S(l/dIOI',~e Table Base. ~) Uhecking ':2'/2'
,11iters,5) Routing In J1It iple PaRRe,~. Patio Table
G) Table Is-Brackets.

IPatio Table

I f"6l1Ve
built 0 uniqu.e octaqona!
llsing two tlifferent toood -

.....

...J. ~

/Xlge 6

table

Cal-

ifo-rni(t redwood for the fra 1M and OO,'e,


and western cedarfor lire slats hI the fop.

IAccent Lamp
t,""-""'-

....!..

11121 Nolhin{J
/'ightells all area like a
lomp. And all
need 10 make this
!JOlt

...J

Aaent

Lamp is a lIIeekeluLl-I'e'l-eel'l'Il pro-

oided a source for the hardware, decoratioe


sirips. and ti lump shade,

IShop Notes
....
__

...:..

111611)Beating
Shop-Built Kerfillg Jig. 2.1 Pilaf
TI'(Ic/'x.il) Clalllping Solu-

...J

Accent Lamp

page

12

tiolls.~) Relllo!'ing (I Router Bearinq.

IRedwood Planter

1.

1181 pa,l't
Tne detaite ot theromere ore ontu
of what makes lit;,; Red uiood.
Planter (/ ('lassie for the qnrde or patio,
In keflpillg with the 11'111/;1;'''111.1 lank, it'

ssemblei wilh tradil ionat Illo/'ti,~e and


tenoll jOille'I'!/.

IJapanese Saws
1.:.

:,,:::,!~:":":'::"::"'~':"'_':'___

11241 Thel'e'SlIlo/'efoJapClII/iSeIiClII-'stholl
razo II a tp It,
It '110 II

..J.

1'1t

tl'l'(

I{'(, It 0II

I(

IiII'

lise them and offi'l' f'i/l'~UII II'h it'll ,~I!III'


to buy. Plus, we toke (/ look:(1I(I n'es/el'll
l'el':;io)1 of (I Jaj)arw~1' SClIl',

II)

I Sawhorse.

i; ~_"":"""':"""':""

11281 ('on
The results a,'e infor Ollr
test. ,hid the toin.ner

Reduuod Planter

~(tl/lhOI',~1!

...J.

are:

(I

Knock-Dount Sawhol'se, (I Foldiiu; Sawhorse, (ll1ci (I Conveniionol Sau-horse.

ITalking Shop

.........:.......:.......:...!:~__:.!:....

..J.

1301H(/ll'
do !lOll refiuisl: outdoorfuruiIIII'e? And hall' fa prevent S/I'pped
tenons toheu culling 01/ 1/11' tabte sal(~

1 Sources

11311 Harduiare
and project su.pplle
neededfor the projects in this issue.
Japanese

No, i5

SCUI),~

page 2.1

FRO

FELLOW

WOODWORKERS

Tips &. Techniques


THIRD HAND
I had a problem CVeJ)' time I
mounicd a bit in the router at
tached to my lI'otH(.<mitJ, router
table. It seems like I needed
three hand", one to hold the bit

it wouldn't drop IOf)low and


bottom oulin the ccller, and two
hands [or the wrenches that
tighten the C(llivl
To solve the problem, I used
SO

an ordinary

BLADE GUARDS
"lhird hand: see Fig. L Grasp
the cutting end of the router bit
in the clothespin. :-low set the
clothespin on the router table
with the bit in th, COUCL
Then adjust the router height
until the desired amount of the
bit is in the collet. And tighten
down the bit, see Fig.la.
lJo.,."rrl,1f R"I/II","

clothespin as a

HOlD lIT ON tAJ,Lt


WITH ClOfHtSPJN

Lo"cla>llL Colottu/o

o.

Carbide-ripped circular sa"


blades are expensive so I take
care to protect the It,,,(h from
damage when the blade is off the

To make a guard for a 10"


blade. startwith a3-footlength of

'*'" 0.0. plastic tubing,or ~,,;"


O.D.lUbing [or thin kerfblades,

saw for storage or to be sbarpTIlt'11. wt;dgt:We tube in a viM"


ened, To protect Uwteeth.I use and slit it open with a sharp util
3 piece of plastic tubing that I ilY knife, see Fig. 1. Now spread
bought at a hardware store. refer the tube apart and slip itover Ule
toFtII.2.ltcoSl<about20centsa
[OOl (Mail order catalogs sell
blade guard,; [or $10 or more.j

teeth. sec Fig. 2.

JOhl1 SU"tQ/u'"
B tt~Jla"(I

It. Tl'Ill';S$('r.

tHIRD HAND

SAWHORSE TABLE BASE

CHECKING 221/2. MITERS

I use sawhorsesfora variCty of hangers. see detail. Auach the Ihad a hard tin'" setting the

side 01 one piece 3g"c:linSl the rip

jobs. including when I cut down


4><8sheet> ef (1Iyw(Jod. BUI the:
plywood usually sags when laid
across two sawhorse'S. So I
devised an easy way to stop the

hangers so they11pinch thcends


of the 2x4s. Ihis way the Zx4',
will SillYin the hangers without
being screwed in place

miter gauge on fll)' tabl....saw to


cut exactJy 2"2l! when making

fence, 1\eJ<l place the mitered

horses. see Fig. I.


The support system consists
of two 6 f{'K)l2x4' ~ hung between
the sawhorseson metal Zx-tjoist

[or those times when my bench the miter gaUlle on test pieces.
is 100 hi,l!hand the flooris too low.
Here's how. First. (.'tI1 a piece
/{(II';11 ll"""ght
Q[ scrap in two aITlvl'.Then. to
Tr- '11(111" J\'I'U' J')i'~ell check the angle. place the long

triangle. An accurate cutcrcares


a 45' angle.
[)(u',d Bec

end of the second piece tighl


mitered cuts foran octagon,So I as:ain't the mitered end
the
developed aSY$ICm u<ing the rip first. ~eFig. I. 1'\0\\ check the
This system also makes a ter- f~nc~ and a plastic 45' drafting angle between the second piece
sagging b~'connecting the caw- rific temporary assembly tab1~ triangle to check tilt:3CCU~' oi and the rip fence with the plastic

,lf~tJdlllOU"',

(1IIt(,

I
~

.,

or

SECO!"D:

,..__

V
/~

~
sUO(

'N

-;'tl-\

.... TItWIGU

t
~

-w

... r-- ,:

\j
I

.-'"

I!lP

"H(r

f1"ST~

PiAClANGl(D

OGI'S lOGmwt

MfWt GAUGi SiT_/

AT 22.)", ANO\.i-

I,

.11

No. 75


ROUTING

MULTIPLE PASSES

Theproblem with my router is


grooves for a recent projI'Cl.T" Iypical of many. They have 100
do this. I routed the grooves in much play in the mechanism
two 1,/4"-deeppasses. BUI when I that controls the <lCJl{h elfcut, So
re-et th~ billO cut the second when you change the depth of
pass, the cut was slighlly off to th(' bit and retighten the mellor
one side of the fin!t cut. This lefl for the second pass. the bit can
a lillie step on one side of the cut at a sUghU)' different point
groove,seephoto.ltlookl'<i bad. than it did on the firslpaSS.
and the groove turned oul wider
To solve the problem, stan.by
than the router bit.
set ling the bit 10 cut the full
I had

10 rout some

"'l'-dcep

a.

deplh of the groove.


11,.n lav a Vi"thick

spacer (made of Ma
sonite or plywood)

on me router table to "raise" the


workpiece for a shallower depth
ofcut.see Fig.fa.Nowmakethe
first pass.
Then remove the spacer and
make the final full-depth cut, sec

~ig.
1b. By removing the spacer,

b.

fiRST PASS

SECOND PASS
(<<MOW Sl'ActlIl

WORKPIKf
W(MU(Pl1CE

[0 change the
depth of cut on the router before
making the second passs.
To make deeper groov..". use
1;\\'0 or three spacers and remove
one after each pass.

you won't have

111isworked,", well, I made a


permanent spacer by screwing a
pair of cleats on the ends of the
spacer, see Fig. I.n'l'Y overlap
the ends of the router table and
hold the spacer in place.
111is method also works when
routing multiple "asses freehand. Just attach a spacer 10
)'our router base plate when
making the- first pass.

Krill' P. Broun

De" ,!,lle,

.,fpl"

,/pm(;"

TABLE LBRACKETS
base need slots perpendicular 10
butcher-block style, solid wood table top to move independently about S4.00 for 3 36")ong piece, the bend. see Fig. 23. Slots in the
brackets on the table ends.
top. Bill [ ran into a problem of the table base.
the shortest Icould buy.
But the "L' brackets sold at
What makes il ideal for table however, should be parallel with
when I tried to find brackets to
attach the table top 10the base. my local hardware store don't brackets is that there are holes the bend. see 1;".2b.
To make table brackets, cut
\Vood expands and contracts allow (or any wood movement. opposite some of the slots. see
across the grain "ith changes in So I decided to make my braek- Fig. I. To allow the wood to th~ sI~",1angle with a hacksaw
humidilY. Since my top is made ets out of sloued steel angle. see move across the grain. the into tVl"long segments, sec
of thick solid wood. I needed Fig. L 1be hardware store sells brackets on the sidesofthe table Fig. l. '[ben screw the brackets
10the table base. To attach the
top. use a screw and a washer in
1
,2_J SlOrs.N
each sial

.1 recently built a table with a

brackets that would allow

r-

nI)

it as framing for shelves, It cost

eAACKUS
AUOWWOOO
TOMOvt

RU88AlfJ'(UIf/pr

Cle~(,/u"d. OMo
SIND IN YOU. ftPS

[ vOU would like to share a

or

tip
idea, just send it to
lI'ood.miJ)., Tills and Techniques, 22QO Grand Ave.. Des

Moines,Iowa~J2.

a.

We will pay upon publica


SIDE
aRACI(ff

NIl.

75

lNO
81lACKn

Wood.mith

tion $15 to $100 (depending


(In the published length of the
lip). Please incJudt an explanation and a sketch or
phOIO(We11drawa new one).

FEATURE

PROJECT

Patio Table
It's nor JUSt rhe shape of this Patio Table that's unique. The joinery that
goes into buiWing rhe table is similar co what you'd find in an indoor table.
Yet aUthe joints are made with just a table saw and a router.

r"fhis ratio Table isn't shaped lik!' a standard


~i;icnic table.andit's nOI buill like 011('either.
Making it involves culting thre e joints; lap joints.
mortise and tenons. and splined miters, Not the
joinery you'd expect to findin an cutdoorproject,
JOINERY.BUI Ill" biggcst dwlengc i. not in
making the joints forthe base, The mainchalltnge
comes in accurately culling UI('miters for dIe frame
around the top, With sixteen miters to C'UI. any
error gelsmullipli<'d when the frame isassembled,
So the secret is 10 take your lime and make a
test frame from scrap wood firsL Then. when
you're done. you11have a table for outdoors that's
built with the craftsmanship of indoor fumiture.

Stl'I'IJES. I used clear heart redwood (or the


table base and top frame. White oak and cedar
are good alternatives.In fact.I made the topslais

of western red cedar - they add contrast and


hold down the cost,
TIlt' main joinlF in the table have no hardware,
they're assembled wiUI moisture-resistant glue.
Keeperstripsand screwshold tht-lOpslatsin place.
The top itself is secured 10 i.bebase with threaded
inserts and machine bolts, (fbis makes it easy to
break the table down for stOrage in the winter.)
To reduce the effects of the elements in the
summer, the table is finished with mixture of
sparvamish and tung oil. see Sources. page 31.

No. 75

EXPLODED VIEW
OVERAU DIMENSIONS:
481/4''W x 29"H

c:iY"

j/

, I=~~~
SPUNE

-SLATS

CROSS ~
BRACE

~.
~

1J

5~5~==;::::==;:)..._:~Y
--.
H KEEPER
STRIPS

ARM~
G

r...,...~

.li.- " , \>'J~


MACHIN!
1!Ol~

NOTE:

rs ARE CUT
OvtISJU. THIN
TRtMMfO to Frr

...(y

$l.A

CROSS SECTION

flAT
-WASHlR

LEG

CROSS

IRACI

FOOT
~

.ax I' ....fh


WOODSCttlW

CUnlNG DIAGRAM

MATERIALS
TOP
A F,ome{8)
8 ClOSSBtoce a)
C SiaI.(4)

o SIa!s(4)

E Slats (4)
f SloI5(4)

G Slols(l6)
II l(ee;:>elSlIips(4)

1 Splines(S)
BASE
J Armsa}
K Feel(2)
l tegs(4)
MPods(4)

'2

1',x4.:!O
11?x.4A61:.t

'\1,.2'"
9 Rgh
'II. X 2'~'12ilgh
l;,. 21<& 14Rgh
'\I 2'-t-17 J?gh

l~x 2'~' 19RQh


loll. '\Ia- d51lgh
'12.6 4Rgh
1%.2~,4?
21r',. J 42

11k.4 26+.

'x~.-4

SUPPUES
(4) <t.. Thcd Insem & 1",' Mach BoII$
.( 16) '8. 1'/,' Fh WOQOsctEolNS
.(1lO) -6 x l' fhWOOdsclews (64)Brods

No. 75

Jt

I.

It ,11..,.. )(

.2

S,,,", 60'"

.' :~ ,.".

{Two

Boo"

[.,

ft.,

' ~'

2. -. 6(' '.,")($'"...l- %- (Two 800nf


,

Ia
l

!Z2

c~,
...x 7' ."1.

re ;'
t:-4

ad. Ft. fo(h)


j

I g i ! IS i I
1.'

.
11,.x-71 ....r- 96" (S.3 Ikf~Ft.,
"

Boafds:. 5.3 ad. Ft. loch)

2 A 6 t I \.I)" x st.,... 06" (a ad.

k'

lv"zu,t

.....

t,, 31,.,.). 96"' (Th....

'2.411

S lid. Fr.loth)

I ,g

ij

96* (5.3 ft.d_, F",

G
G

TABLE TOP
The lOPof the table

fRAME

is an eight-sided
frame joined with

o.

-.O'----~~

I"

spliced miters,

SECTION

(ooHTNlmm)

~~~~~=
~
,.
frame,
a pairofimer'
To strengthenthe

oreat" foW'op<'ning
that are later filled with the top slats.

..... " ..:: e- :-.

11.'~;i:"i~.

TOPFUME
.~
k on II"!IOPbycullmge",

;,.,.
Startwork
..Ifram I'
sections (A) from a 2x610 [OUIl" lengths of
22" Then rip these 10 finished width (4").

)1JTERl;.To check Ihal tile miler gauge is


set at the exact angle, Ifirst made a series of
test cuts on eighl pieces of 4"widc scrap
plywe'od. (Also.sec the lip on page 4.)
Then. 10 guarantee that ail the sections
"ere identical in length. I attached an auxiliary fence In my miter gaug" and clamped a
stop block 10this (<,nee.
Once the IC!Opieces form a perfect octagon.
mil,,,.all eight sections 10IC1lg\h.S(!C Fig. I.
KERFS",'II) sruxes, To strengthen the
[oints, I used VZ',lhick splines,The splines fit
in kerfs centered on the thickness oi the

22',,' ""'..._Ii<;""-

-,

....... OH
80111 11(0$

,,:1:::

\
ROVY-POCkm-

'0'

",'.-l ')~,

I '

,~

on the table saw m;ing a dado blade and a


special jig. sec Shop NOI"". pagc' 16.
N<"xt. make {he- splines by resawing
cn()u~h stock to fi1. the kerfs, Then cut Ole
splines 10width and length, refer 10 Fig. ~.

.....
I

~o'

--1

receive the cross braces. refer

10

WAXED
PAl'1'

t
s=r

,,'

NOTE:

UPSIOf-OOWN

ONPlTWOOO

WORKSOMAct

~~_u.-

10 within IN' "~fthe IaYOUIlines. Then I


cleaned up to the lines wilh a chisel,

a.

OWE AND SCUW


CROSSIaACts TO JaAME

APPtY OlUETO
LAP JOfNlS

CROSS .IlACES

li~~'
~~~:._~~-=l~~[~
__~:::::=~;:=~~~~~~
PlYWOOO

r-:-r---:;;;;;;;-;;;:::-----------::;::::=====;::::===;::::;::::"l
cuno m

uf2x61O dU5lellgth. aod also 10 filial "idth.


ILUP I,\PS. Now lay oul halflap ioims on
4
the end. and center of ('och cross brace, see I-...J

is cot on the
top of one brace and the bollom of the other
\SS~IHLV.I assembled the lOP upside
down on 8 half sheet or plywood. see Fig. 3.
Spread some plastic resin glue in eacb saw
kerf. then add the splines. (See page 31 for
more on outdoor glues.)
Clamp the frame pieces10the plywood as
you work your way around the table, Then
glue and screw the cross braces imo the
pockets, see Fig. 3a.
TRIM SPUNES. Once the glue dries. trim.
the" sand the splines!lush with the inside
and outside edges o(th~ frame. see Fig. 4a. '-

0,

fig. 2. Nole; TI'e ccnlerhalflap

ASS(fI(IU FItAM

Figs. I and 3. I roughed-out these pockets


using the router wilh a strnighl bit. routing ~."

To make th e c roMS braces (8). firstdry-assemble


rhe frame and measure between the
extremes of each pocket.Then curtwo pieces

-1'0'

HAlF lAP ts-oN lOP Of ONE


ClIOSS IlIA AND JOn'OM
Of OTl4lR (-oSS MACl

on the undcn;id{' of (our o( ihc frame sec10

3'

'=-:i

i 'bn ,- :
NOTE:

. h-

:-laIC: For maximum strength. orient the


grain o( the spline across the joint line.
I'OCKElS.TIle next step is 10CUI"pocIleIS

tions

2',,"

ON UNGTH Of<.OSS 1AAct5

.6'~---

' . rEf

(ur~FOa
HAIl W'$ CQ<ItlllD

'...: c' :.

..

__"'2"'12 ___

r==:
'
f

JOlt SPUNIS

'....

.'

.__~
~===========::::J

CROSS BRACE

o~

...... -..;;~;;;..

CUT'''''>Iot ... ,
clNn...,ON Tl4OCkN["

IN FOUR........
5(~CT1~IO~N~$~QH(~"!_

frame sections.see FIR. lao I CUi thesekerfs

.'"

SPUN<

SHoULD lX1'I.NO
N"I'OHO IOTH.too-u
OF ftAM( stCJ10HS

0'

/ SAND
OR....,.._
ft.U$K 10 1NSIDt ANO
OUTSrMllAMf IQGU

--1
\Xlo<xhnllth

No. 75

TABLE TOP

C'-",r

EO

equal ",,wide spacing between them, see


FIg, 1. To determine how wide each slat
should be, fiNt measure across the widest
part 01the opening. (All four openings must
be the same size.)
Then. to alluw fornine 1Jl!"wideJ('dPS. subtract I
from thls measurement, Finally,
divide this figure by cigbt to obtain the
desired width olthcslats, (In myca se. 21Jl!".)
Naweoough :Y~"thickstocklorall32 slats
can be cui to this finished width, refer to the
Cutting Diagram on pllge 7.
n,"TOROlIGH 1.'1GTILWith thestockfor
the slats ripped til uniform width. the)' can be
CUtto length. To mlnimizcwaste.I started by
first culling them to five differenl rough
lengths. refer to pans C,[).E.F. and C; in the
Materials U"on page 7
M.E.lSl'11.E
.\''1" m. The procedure for cutting Ihe slats 10 finished lengUI is the same
(or each of the four openings. So for each
opening. fin.1 cut 3 45' miter across the outTOP SLATS
side end of Ihefic.> ./"'rt~.tsial blanks. see
Each 01 the four ooenlnzs contains eight Fag. 7 and the Exploded Ir.cw on page 7.
NexL po:;itiorllilit slats elVer the C-JlX"nin,g
slats, TIl<'slat. start oulas blanksol differing
with 3 VJ;"thi.:k temporary spacerposhioned
lengths thai are individually cuI to fi~
on both sides oi each slat Now make a pencil
RIP SLATSTO IIIOTII_ The top slats
(C.I).E.F.G) filint" the frame openings with mark on the inside end of nil eig'" slats to

With the tOI'frame assembled. the next step


isto round over the edgos.
ROlNI).()I'ERS. To round over the outsidr
edges of the frame. [ used a II." round-ever
bit. routinll in 8 counter-clockwise direction.
S<!<! rig. 5.
For the top i>lairu edges of the frame and also the tOPedges ofthe cross braces=[used a 1'' " round-overbh, routing in a clockwise direction, see Fig. 5.
1Wl8f:rS. When the top slats an' added,
they're held in place by a series o( keeper
stripsauached 10the underside ofthe frame.
refer to I'ill_g, '111"slat. nc-';!011 ledge rabbeted into the frame. The ledge is formed by
routing a ~.-wide rabbet olonl1the bottom
inside openmgs 01the frame. see Fig. 6_
\lakt' at 1.:L'l tWlipasse. to rout !.Iw 1"deep rabbet.leaving a ~"-thick tiptosuppon
the slats. see Fig. 6:1. TI,eD SQuare up the
Comers with a chisel.

v.r

ROUT ,,"

ROUND-OVUt
em 1NSIDt IDOlS

indicate where itmeets the edge oflhp cross


brace, see FiK_1. Then cress-cut each slat to
finished length 311he pencil mark.
AAU8rS. The slats should fil in the openings now, bUI theywon'lbe Rushwith the tap
surface 01the table frame. To gel them Hush.
cut rabbets on theendsoteach slat. see Figs.
8 and 9. I cut the rabbets with a dado blade
on the table saw.
ROt St),Ol'lillS. Now round over all fOllr
tOPedges of each SL11with a """ round-aver
bit in the router table, (~o!e: The bearing on
the router bit has to b<- removed (or muting
the rabbeted ends, S<'<' Shop Not''''. page 17.)
I.NSTi\ll. 11IE ~lATS. Next, to maintain a
unifunn space between the slats, I tacked
them in place. 0)\" al a time. through th~
rabbeted ends. see Fig. 9, Position the WIIlporary \11" spacers between each slat as !.IIeY
arc tacked down. refer to Fig, .
KF.FJ'ER Sl1!J1'S, wnen ali Ihe slats have
been tacked in place. rill enough :It,"thick
stock for keeper strips (Ii) 10 a finished
width or 314" ee Fig. 9. Then cut each
keeper strip to fil. and screw them under the
slots, S,(, Fig. 10,Note: Don't glue the keeper
strips ill place, Thls way it's no problem 10
replac...damaged or broken sial' later

NOTE:

Of OUt-SIDE tOOlS

ROUT ~.

I,,"

IN.StDf lOOtS OF-

l.[OO[

fOUR OPiNJNO$

10

SLATS

.,

RABBil

i- OfEP AROUND_

CROSS SECTION

.ono,,",

fAC'l' UP

"'00
.'~

ROUT I _.. lOUNO-OVt:.


ON lOP AND aonOM

NOTE:

cur

tcl(PtJl STili'S

to Fff ACftOSS

(NOS Of SLATS

>'WI........

TABLE BASE
When the tabletopis
complete. work can

begin 00 th~ base.


11,. base bas four
legs joinl-d to crossshaped arm (top) and
foot assemblies.
I 'tatted b), makingtht.-nrmsand feet
from three identical blanks. (rwC) of the
blanks are the (eet. The third blank is rippcd
in ltalfto become a pair of arms.)
"""b blank ismade (rom two 2x4s thnt arc
glued together. sec ~lg 12.Start by planing
(or resawing) one face of each 2x4 (to 1%")
to provide a dean. fiat gluing surf.u:c.
There's a trick to fomling the mortises
iIl
t ~ f
E3<:h blank. Befcre gluilll( the planed ...."" 0
the 2x4s together, cut lI.l"-dcep notches
across each faco. _I-lit. 11.Then. when the
pieces are !!lued together. the notches form
mortises. see r,g. lJa. Shop Tip.To keep the
dadOt'>alignt.'IIwhilt'youregluingupilie2x4",
fil dIe mortises with k'ffll)()rat)"1L'IlOIIS."
A(terthe pieces <Ireglued together. ripthe
assembly to 3" wide, see Fig. 12.

11

ARM/FOOT

BLANK"

Q.

..,..-

NOTE:
OWE UP nlRtl-

~
'\

tD(NTICAlllAHkSOf FOI lACK fOOT#


AND A oo.D fOItTHl AlMS

_::::::==========~
,",
..0--31.,..,-....,

L
_:~
r---r-------------------==-=-====---,
12 NOTE:
c- _,~ 2'"
O':.":~
~ .=.s
ctNn. fOOTe..
.....;J
i" ;....__..".
__- _
UPON OOlTOM fOOT
FOItH~W'ON-~"

lACHfOOT

.- .__.-

_ .... ~,

......-"
).

IFEn
Q.

Once the blanksarecur to size.setone blank


aside (for tllC arms) and continue working
on the other iwo (for the feet).
IIAlF lAPS. The rwo feet are joined into a

cross shape with half-lapjoints, refer to "lit.

17.To make identical "self-centerinn" half


laps. I used the rip fcnc(' as a stop logt'mer
with an auxiliary Ience screwed to the miter
gauge. (Shop xote: lt's okay 10use the miter

gauge with the rip fcnc(' since you're not


culling all the way tbrough the wood.)
To make tbese half laps. fin;! lay out the
position of a 2(\', "widen"ICh centered on the
length o( one fot blank. see Fog. 12/l.
Then. to (,."\11 the notches. make ("'e) cuts
on each piece.turning the piece end-for-end

tween the first two cuts with additional cuts.


CltAlItf'ER!j. When you're donecauing the
notches that form the half laps. layout and
cut a decorative chamfer on the top ends of
each foot. 8<'" Fi~
rs, 13and 133.
Note: 111echamfers are cut with the bal(
lap notch doo-n on one foot. and Ihe hall-lap
between cuts, Thisdefines tile outside limits notch "1' on the other. see Fig. 12.
PADS. To keep the table (tiel dry. I glued
of the notches, Then clean out the waste be-

:V,lhkk pads (lit) to the bottom ends of


each fool. see Figs. 14 and 143.
~"-"lIBL FEET. 'Vith the pads in place.
the feet can now be assembled into a crossshaped unit. I used plastic resin glue and
clamped the two pieces together, Finally. to
minimize splintering, I softened the upper
edges (and also the outside ends) o( the feet
with.
round-over bit,

13

14

Q.

v,

fOOT
fOOT
CurTO

SAM( WlDl14 "'-.


AS fOOT
-

..__
-fOOT

Q.

...

_L

NOTE:

cur W'J'tH DADO


;,AGlNG DOWN ON ON! fOOT.
CMAMlfftS ARt

AND FACING UP ON o"..at fOOT

[0

?'

45'

No. 75

TABLE BASE

COI'.rINtI"O

ARMS

To make the arms. start by ripping the remaining glued-up blank into IWO lW'thick
pieces, Do this by fin;! ripping one w finished
size. then ripping the other to match lite firs!.
Note: Unless your saw can CUI 3' deep.
you'll have to make LwO P3."'" 10 rip each
arm. see Fig$. 15.1 and ISb.
IlAl.F.1AJ'S.To cut the notches that form
the half-lap joint, first lay our the position of
the notch cente re>d on the lc.lIR\h of one of
lite arms. SI'e Fig. IS. Then cut the notches
using the same procedure as on the feet.
CHA.\lFER.When thi- arms are cut 10
finished si7'<:. CUIa 45' chamfer across the
ends of eacl m. J\gain. orient the chamfers
in relation to the center hnlflaps. see rig'. IS.
ASSEMBI.E & ROUND O\IF.R. Now glue and
clamp the arms together at the lap joint
Then complete the arms by routing a V,'
round-over on the lower edges, see fig 17.
LlGS
To make lite ~

15

alP IWMINJNG UM}FOOT BlANK


TO (:AlAn TWO ARMS

RtplACHAIM

a'r=,..!!:IN~fWTOT:!A!!:S$!.:"~I...._

I....

..COND'ASS
b PROOUCiS
ONE AI.M
a

NOTE:

1OT10MINOS
Of AIlMS AJt(

awnRNOTCH

CHAM......

-'OR KALFlAP

ON f.A.CHAR.M

16

r~,,
LJ,r-t

start by cutting four leQl!lhs

..

of2x6 10finished dimensions, see ~ig.


IS.
TENos".Mter the legs are cut 10 si1.e. the
tenonscan beCUI on eachendofthe legs.see
Fig. 16. (Note: Since the arms and feet are
different thicknesscs.thetenonsat the top of
Ihe legs are a different length than the
tenons at the bottom of the legs.)
To l'UL the tenons, I used a dado blade to
make a sh(lUhl~r cut on each piece wilh the
end of th~ h'l( butt<'d 10the rip fence. Then 1
made multiplepasses complete the tenon.
ROtfNUOI'ERS, Before assembling the
base,rout a 1'." round-overon the edges (bul
not the tenons) of all four legs. see Fig. 17.

DRIlL ~ SHANK HOlES

17

FO. MOUNTfNG tOP

.....

I'..'_'

c'

f.. IROUT ',"


ftOVNO'()VEIl

<D
LEG

ONLOWfR
26'."

fOGES Of AIM
AHDUPPlR

tDGESOJfW

'0

,\ssE_\tBLETlI a,s.:. T03SS('01ble thewble

-'--

base. first glue th~lcgs.oneala time. intothe


mortises in the feet assemblr, sec Fig. 17.
Then glue the ann aSSl'mbly onto the top
ends of the legs.

AnACH

THE TOP

""ath the table base assembled. the table top


can beattached to the base.
COl'NTERIlORf.$.>\l'm S1~\.\1\ 1l0LES. Begin

bydnlling aceu nterbore and shank hol~ near


lilt' chamfered end and centered on the
width of each arm. see Figs, 17and 18.
nnlF.AllEI> h"'SERTS.Now positiou the lOP

3'

_t_

1~ ~- _.,.J

31.,-

ROUT ~~..
ROUNO-QVEIl ON
AU (oots OF lEGS

b--

1.'~:::lJ--I'-P:'>:::;:7--I"",,,;::-----::=========:::::l
TOP fACE UP
a.
.I.

r<:;,e;~

r"""""'~~;;:"

and base upside down and center the arms


on the cross braces. Make a punch mark
through each shank hole to indicate Ihe 1<JCao
tion of" holeiora threaded lose". see I-Ig.18.

Then drill holt><for the inserts, set' rlj1. 1Sa.


L\'ST.\U.NSF.R'~. \\"athaU the boles drilled,

install the threaded Inserts in the cross

brace s, (Forsourcesofbollsand Inserts, see


page 31.) Finally. anach the base to the top
with r"u;"x II'.!" machine bolts. see Fig. lSa.

No. i5

I!AS( ARM

arossluCU

\V",>dsmnh

11

WEEKEND

PROJECT

Accent Lamp
There are three challenges to building this lamp - getting
the cord through the post rapeling a short piece and adding decorative
strips - and all have surprisingly simple solutions.
I

ny lim" you build a lamp with a post,


you're f.,ctd with the question of how to

I!ct the electrical cord through the post.


Instead of using ao extra long drill bit. or
drilling a hole from both ends, Iglued up the
po,1 from several pieces and I<..ft a chana e 1 in
the center for the electrical cord.
TAPER. Another challenge with this projo!cl
W,", to lind a safe way to cut a taper 011all (our
sides of the short post. To do this. I came up

with a surprisingly simple jig that auto maticall y


sets the taper - und is safe to use. It's just.
square block of wood with an off-center dowel

((or more information. sec page 13)

12

After I made the origin.llampout of


walnut with brass strips (as shown in the I,hulo
above). we made severa! variations u$ing
different woods: oak and mahogany-s-and decorative strips made out of a variety of metals
and contrasting woods.
t'~I~H. To prot ect both the lamp and the d..,_
orative strips, 1used a spray can of Defl Satin
Clear Wood Finish and sprayed ",I two coats,
HARDWARE..
You should be able to purchase
most of uie hardware. the electrical supplies
and the lamp shade at a local lighting store, 0:
W/md.mill, I'mj,et SU/lIJlie. Is offering a
hardware kit and the shade. see page 31
WOOD.

\XIoodsmuh

No. 75

POST
I began work on the lamp by making the
tapered post, Insieadof using solid stockand
drilling a hole the length of the post for the
electrical cord. it's easier 10 glue up four
pieces. S(>(' rig. 1.This way you can build in
a channel Cor the electrical cord.

r-""'T---------------------------,

tL'T po;.'T !'IF-ellS. Star! by ('lllling tWO


POSI sides (1\) from .".Ihkk stock 10 a

,., .. 1tMPOAARY

a.

POST SIDE

s-.
..---

__..

SPACER

'."

....
10"

fini$hedwidlhof2" and rough l.ngthoC 10".


'Ire rig. 1.Theil. cut twopost spacers (B)
from \!'t'thick stock 10 the same It-nllth as
the sides but only 'V."wide.These spacers
POST SPACER
are sandwiched between the sides (/\) to
---.--(!)
provide the channel for the cord. This also
will create a POSIthat starts out as a perfecl
square. see Fig. Ia,
r--.-==~:::----'
eWE-UP POST.The Irick in gluing up the
TAPER JIG
3
post is assembling alltill' piecesso the edges 1-_2_J
arc flush, This forms the square channel (or
the cord in the center.
To do Il,is. I inserted a short length of Vz"
dowel in each end as a temporary spacer.
Then I glut'tl and clamped the sides and
sparers together a$ a unit, see Fig. 1a, Afler
the glue dries. cui the post to a finished
length of9\1".
TAPERJI\.. The next Slep is 10CUIa taper
NOTE,
onallfour sidesofthepcst. Todothis,l made
ROTAn POS1'llIID' ~
a simple jig 10hold one end of the lamp POSI
&ElWitN CIlT$.
JfGPOsmON
away from the rip (cnc~ as it's fed through
OOESN'TC_
the blade. refer to Fig. 3.
Thejia i$ju.la2" x 2" block nhcssme size
as the end ofthe lamp pcsn. see Fig. 2 The
trick is to mount a V:!" dowt"l()ffl"P"/t'rol1lilc
block 10create an angle 10taper the p<JSL
CITTAI'ER.To use the jig. firsl insert the
dowel in Ihelol) end OJthe lamp post, see Iig.
:1. Now po:;ition Ih, rip fence so the bottom
end of Ute post filS tight between the saw
blade and the Ieucc. S<'C ~ig.:Ia.
Then place the post agrunst the rip fence.
sec Fig. 3. (NOlI!; lfyourtablesawhasashort

DOwn

2"

2"-~~

a.

ft.'11CC. you"1Ineed toclampor screw an auxiliary fen", 10 II",rip fence first so the post is

supported through the entire cut.) Once the


saw is set up. CUi Uw fiTSllapet. (For M(,'ly.
I used 1Ipush block. see Fig. :i.)
Since this jig works orr the dowel in the
endofthe posi.allyou have tud .. isrolnl('th,'
POSIbetween cuts, So aft('r making the firsl
rul. rotate the post 90' and make another cut.
(Note; Do 111)' rotate the ji~ between cuts,
Alwayskcepthcedge nl the jiglhal's farllt''''l

away from the-dowel againsllh. rip fence.)


DAJ)()$ }-'ORINlAY. Once a taper is cut Oil
ali iour sides of the post. CUIshallow dadoes
for ioL~l'strips near the bottom. I did this on
the table sawwnh a V.' dado blade, see Fig.
lao Use the rip fence as a slop by selling il
'hi' away from the saw blade. '111." angle the
miter gauge 10 match the angle of the
tapered post. and push the post over the
blade. sec fiK 4.
Shop NOJe:Since thislsnota through CUI.
it's "kay to use the rip fence.". stop.

No. 75

.'P

f'(Nef:

.,

,:

..

'."
t.

..""
I

TA...

JJG

i! :

J '

.......

,,"

1,1.....

0(" CUT

NOTE,
ANGU MrrtR GAUGE.
so 10TH rOGES
Of POST 'OUCH

,_ .. 0'.A00 &lADE

FEN ATeO'M'OM

SUPPLIES

MATERIALS
OVERAll DIMENSIONS (WITH SHAl>E)
ll'W x 19"Hx 12"0
A Post Sides (2)
x2 . 9'.-2
& PostSpocel$ro

C I'IoJfo,m PIeces (A)

1,'x~.9""
,
2'", <W6

o f'OO'IeI'!eces (4)

'h xl"

E F&&I(4)

,.

1-1

.7

-\fa X ''A'll". 24- (.9 14. ft.)

r
L

q 8d FI or;', 'lh!c~ WdOVl


6 Sq, Ft of ',?' Itlld<Wo:r.ut
(5) 12' 81ossS1ups{O.06<! x vi)
(1) I Ol Tube 01 "INlonl Gaua
(1) 6 foot lJI'\&Cord o'\d PI\Jg
(1) II'StraJg~1 FlxllJl& ~("t'I.Ps.)

(I) l'-dlO S1ee1Wosh...-{-IllsP;P&)


(l)lod<Wosh&rond ~I (fn$plP&)

(I) 11""-00 BlossChecl<Ring


0) 7' Shade Horp wjltl FlnIol
(1) Push-llvoogh lomp'Socl<er

(1) LQmp$hQde

...,. x. 3" 30" (.6 Sq. ',.)

WooJ,mirh

:. I

(4) No 8x ~ AolneodWOQdsctews
(2)No.8x 11;,'FlOtheodWoodscre-.",
(l)Conof~I'SoII"CIeo<Wood
rll'liSh

11

LAMP BASE
Once the lamp POStls complete. work can

On

begin
theplatform
base. The
up (rom
a !!tl"thick
thatbase
sitsi<built
on a Vz"thick

frame, reft'r to Fig. II.


Both the platform and frame are made by
joining four mitered pieces to form squares.
Instead of mitering short pieces to (orm the
squares, it's "aJerto Sian.with longer blanks,
CtTRI.\NKS. First, cut a blank for the pial'
form pieces (S('C Fig. 5). and a blank for the
frame pieces. see Fig. 6.
Mm:R STl P. After cutting these blanks
to size, cut four mitered pieces off of each
blank. To do this, I first.screwed a long fence
to the milergau~ losuppon thepiecc>. Then
I st~the mlter gaUl(C 10 45' and clamped the
blank to the fence so it wouldn't "creep" as
~c miter is cut. New miter nne end or each
blank. see Step I in I"tg 7
PlATI'tlRM PIELa To cut the platfonn
pieces (C), measure &W' (rom the mitered
pointofthd>lankandnlakeamark. Then align
the mark with the blade and clamp the blank
to the f.n,'p, see Step 2 in 1-!g.7.
You can cut four mitered piecce'S to identical lengths by using the rip fence as a step
see SIcp2 in fill. 7. Clamp a block W the rent'C,
and then position the fence W the block
bulls aJ(ainst the pointed end of the blank.
(The block keeps the cut-offs from binding.)
After making the cut. unclamp the blank,
lum it over. slide the poiruagainst the block.

_.-I

14

_.- ---

1-~---':,,:,!,",~2~'~'-;-~-;~~~
~ t
2',,-

"'"'"

WIGTlt

"11'00fOR

-'-

""AL"'"01 CIIt

--t;T

@--

PIECES

MtTUONE

..---::::

j..

11'l'r-

I'"

:/

-,

fRAME

PIECfS

.,...

..-I

-j

r-

<L.+_=:-=~

____

-r-

k:

,-""PLATFORM

SlIP!

... 30"

~ 11"1"'

"'"

r-

....

,'1..*

STP 2

_Of

tAC>f .... ""

SlOP

fIlOCl(

I
IUT1' ~K
AGA,lNST
STop atOQ( Af40 ADJUst
FENCETO WI JIIKf: to l.INOT'H

NOTE:

BUrP' WIlL cur


THtouGH

aoTTOM

HAll- OF 'ENCI

and make unother cut, 'Iheo repeat this-procedure (qrthf' remaining pieces,
CL1' ~'R.o\.\1PIECES. To cut the frame

pieces (D) to length. make a mark 7" from


the mitered point,Then repeauhe same procedure uSNIforthc Illatfonn Iliccl'5.
GU F.tl'. The next step is to glue up th~
pieces 10 form the platform and Irarne
squares. (For more on this, see page 17.)
I'\ATFORM I'RO~'lJo:'Next. an angled cut is
made on the face (If the platform to "raise"
the center section with V4"ohighshoulders.
while also leaving a V,"lip at the base.
To do rhls, firsl mljuslthe blade for a V.".
deepcut, and rut kerfs til (ann ihe shoulders
oflht>raised center section,see Fig. S.
Tosupport the pillt(nrm (ortheanJlil>dcut.
IU5<d an auxilial')' renee, S!'<: Fig. 9. Sci the
blade I ilIG high. lilt it to nn II' angle, and
move 111<' rip renee \I," {rom the blade. TC\'t
this cut on a scrap piece, and then cut Ul"
platfonn. see ~iJl.9. (Save the 1""1piece for
clamping the decorative strips later.)
SafelYNote: TIle narrow edge 01the platform can slip lmo the o!><,ningalong the
blade. TOpreYl."OlUli., I made a wooden (zero
ctearaneel insert that fils tight to the blade.
ROI Nil O\ER FtIA~IF..As [or the bast
frame. rnund over the top edg(' with a \14"
round-over bit. see Fig. 10.
ASSE\llll.Y. To assemble the base. flr.;1
sere" the frame to the platform. see fIr:. 11.
Then glue on four I",;qual'('feet (E).

.,'

WASTl ......

9
Sf(

&LAD(

17,..... K1GK.

THlHllU
TO 11"

a,

%lao
CI..UdtA.NCI:
1NSlRT

I,'

11

."

a.

ROUHO-OWa
..".

.-

DIULLHOUS
" fROM
INSlDE lOGE

Woodsmllh

N.). 75

DECORATIVE STRIPS
After the base is assembled.the next step is
to cut and miter 14"wide decorative strips.
The strips fil in the dadoes in the post. and
around the shoulders of the base, see Fig. 12.
I chose brass {or the strips, but you could
use thin suips o{ contrasting wood. see
photo on Conteots page. (For sources o{
brass. see page 31.) Whether you usc wood
or brass. youll need five VI6"lhick strips.
each 12".Joog.lo make one lamp.
MrTERnG.Toaccuralely cut and miter the
strips, I made a simple jig. The jig has a V.
wide greovealonz the edge 10hold Ihe strip,
see Fig. 13.Then One end is mitered 3145'.
and a shallow kerlis CUi near the other end.

8.<\sESTRIPS.To use this jig. place 3 suip


ofbrass in the groove and miter one end wnh
a file. using the mitered end o( the jig as a
guide {orthe file. see Fig. 13.
Then hold the strip against the base ofthe
lamp and mark therough Icngt)l. Since brass
is ea.y to file. l cut the suip oversize (about
Vs"too long). Then I mitered the cut-orr end
with a file. Note: Sneak upon the final length
by periodically checking Ihe 61 of rhe strip
againstthe base.
curs STRlPS.When the fil is exact, rough
up the back or the strip with sandpaper and
glue it in place (see Shop NOles on page 17
for more on litis). I used an "instarn" glue 10

(j: :~-

13

12

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ASSEMBLY

I(

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aASlSTRlPS

Before assembling the lamp. I applied Ihe


finish. I sprayed on two coats or Deft Satin
Clear \'load Finish 10 the POSIand base.
Ailer Ihe finish dried. I screwed the post 10
the base with two NO.8x lIr," {lalheadwoad
screws. see r,g.15b.
IIARIJW;\RE.Nexi comes the hardware.
(IV()()(/"",itil P>'())trtSl'pplil'. is offering a
complete hardware kil for lhis lamp. see
Sources on page 31.) To install ihe hardware. start by screwing Ihe threaded base o{
the tighl socket onto the straighl fixture
pipe. sec iCIg.lSa.
Theil. slide the pipe through the "harp"
and the ll.1i~iameler check ring and slide
this assembly into the square hole in the
post. see Fig. 15. Next. use a Ilatwasher.lock
washer. and nullo secure the f~~lure pipe 10
the base, see Fig. ISb.
\\1RING.The nextsteprstcuiread
the wire
through the pipe and up lnto the base orthe
socket Then 10 provide strain rcllcf for the
cord. tie a knot near the cut cnd of the wire.
Now separate the IwOwires and strip V'z" of
the insulation {rom each wire. see Fig. ISa.
Next. wrap a wire around each O{the
socket screws and tighren the screws. see
Fig. lSa. To complete the assembly. push
the light SOCkClinto its base so the tabs lock
in place. Now add the lighl bulb and shade.
f'mally. before you Ium the lamp 00. make
sure \0 plug it in.

14

STlUP ~

rt /C.. -

.__

IoIIT"JIG

IltMn(.ON

IN.'''

glue on the strips (see Sources. page 31)


Continue fitting and gluing on one suip at "
time until the trim on the base is complete.
1'("'''S'I'R.lPS. Since the post is tapered.th ,.
inlay strips that fit in the dadoes of the IlOst
require a compound miter.
To make this compound miter, first cut
each suip 10 length and file a miter on both
ends. Then place" strip on Ih~JigS()\lle.uip
is 5li~hlly skewed (about 2') and refilo the
angle to a compound miter.see rIg. 11.
Nt'x\.lum the strip end-for-end. skew it in
the upposite direction, and 61eanothert'Om
pound miter. 1)0 this (or loath of the posi
suips and glue them into Ihe dadoes.

PUSH
otJTtR
SUMlNTO

aASE.m.

WIRING 1$

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OHtO FIXTUA,(

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POST
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~

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b.
PLATfORM

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it

FRAME

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15

SOME

TIP

FRO

51-lOP

OUR

Shop Notes
KERFING JIG
With thai much blade ex- mitered frame sections, The Ii"" raise the saw blade to the
building the frame (0" the tOPof posed I wanted my hands in a other two parts of th" jig are desired depth, Thenposhlon the
th~ Patio Table (page 6). The safe position. bUI <till in rcntrol .;implyplyv,ood strips that hold jig against the rip fence anti rut
frame sections 01 the table top of the workpiece, The:jig Icame the jig together and create a jll.1 the fence so the blade is
roughly centered on the thickare nlitE'r('n then joined with up with securely supports thC" -"""kct for the workpiece.
To make the kerfing fig. glul' ness ofthe jig. see Fig. 2.
splines that fit in kerfs. But workpiece as it runs vertically
To ensure the kerfs arc
they're 110t just any ~plincs.al(lDg the rip renee It als<) pre- the two plywood sides 10 the
thesesplinesare l"cl" thickand 4" vems chipoui at the back end of mitered cutoffs with a third cut- centered on the thickness, cut
offtemporarily held in place as a each kerfin two passes.just turn
long. \\'hkh means cuuing
the cui,
~tejigaroulld backwards for the
some pr~uy serious kerfs. (I
~L\IO"C;1lIE JIG. Two of the spat'('r. S('(' Fig. I.
I SL'IGTIIEJIG.Tocut a kerf on second pass (without removing
used a lItwid.- d.d" blade seue pieces needed to make this jig
the workpiece), see FiR. 3.
arc cutoffs from the already- the end 01a mitered workpiece,
CUIZ"d",,,.)
I11IJl into a problem as Iwas

-<UTOffS fl()l4\
fRAMl SKnOHS

Glut PlYWOOD
SlOES TO fA.AM[

CVtOm

l
ROUTER BEARING TRACKS
Alter rounding over the Patio
Table frame (J);lge9).1noticed a
shallewtrnck" leil by 11ll'muter
bit bearing. see Fig. I. \ line of

I'R~'YE'TINGA TKACK. 0 ne
y,<ay to prevent a track WiUl a

handheld router i~to use an


edge guide. see ~ig. 2.The wide
edge distributes the pressure
more evenly so the bearing

wood fibers in the ,;urI redwood


had been compressed,
I'v{: seen this on otherwoods.
dCX'sn'l press into the wood.
and on plywood with softwood
:-':Q(': When usi~ an edge
inner pi...... (Somctilll{,s it's not guide. adjust the llUide SO it's
obvious until finish is applied.) flush with the bearing.

To steam out a bearing track.


PUt~ledampclolhonlh~aff~
track, there's a simple way to re- area of the workpiece. Then, wiUl
move it And it doesn't take a 101 a medium heat settting. slowly
ofextra sanding, either
1110 the iron over the cloth.
Keep th(' clorh damp and
Restore the compressed wood
fibers to their original shape by check the wood often to avoid
usingatlampcloth and ahot iron. scorching, Then, once the track
see Fig. 3. Steamcauses the libel's b raised, sand Ih" workpiece
smooth as you normally would,
to swell back 10 surface level.
RE}IO\'II'G A TR.~C" I( )''''''

can't avoid a router bearing

_ClOTH'SIRON

WORJ(PIfC(_

HOTlRONOH

DANoPCLOJH
RAlS(S
COMPltl$$(I)

,(eras

tOOl GUl'Df DlSTRllUTH

ltAalN<i LlAvtS UGH1


""lItACK" OF COMPRtSSEO
WOOOmlRS

16

DAMP ClOT'H

PRlSSUIt(~E
rvtNlY
'rtlAN PilOt lu.RrNO

No. ;5

,,

CLAMPING SOLUTIONS
.1 came across some Interesting solutious 10 a couple Qf
damping problems that WP experienced while making the Accent Lamp shown on page 12_
CLAMPING THE BASE
The firsl problem was how to
keep the small mitered piece, of
the [ra11lc and platform square

when gluing up.


To solve 111;. I made a simple
form, see Fig. I By repositioning the cleats, it can be used for
both the frame and platform.
~1.<\K.:f'C)R't. To make this
form, draw an accurate square
Ill. same silk as the frame to be
clamped Oil the plywood base.
Then CUI fourdcats to fitaround
Ille square.Next. position three

of the cleats Ilush with the lines


and screw them in place.
cu t;uP. To glu~up ure assembly. apply Illuc to aU [our
pie<'.e!land set them in the form.
111en. either screw or clamp the
fourth dent in place.
CLAMPING THE STRIPS
The second problem was how 10

clamp the deceratiw strips onto


tile shoulders of the lamp base
during glu{.-up. see Fig. 2. Since
ure shoulders arc only V." wide.
h's tougilgetting aclamp 10 hold.
CIA" N~G BU)CK.So I used a
CJ...\.\lP S'I1llPS. To usc the
blocks.
apply glue 10 one strip
teSI piece I'd CUI"""U""S<!uing up
dleprolilciorlhepl.iJonn. Turn- and posltion irnnto til. shoulder.
ed over, this piece is a mirror Then place a block on this and
image ofthe pL1tform-a perfect also the opposite shoulder. and
clamping block. see Fig. 3.
clampacross the blocks, sec Fig .

FQAMr

ts CLAMP(D

SQUAU WHEN 'OURTH


C1.f.AT is ADOO

33. Repeauhls procedure fortiit'


remaining three strips.
To clamp the lower strips.
trim the blocks narrower. This
transfers the clampingpressure
10 their luwer,dges. set' Fig. 3a.

-.

I
nJM SCAAPS TO TRANSllll
PUSSURr TO lOWUt SHIPS

REMOVING

A ROUTER BEARING

Withoul abearing. you haveto


bit helps llUide the bil along the use an edge guide or a router
edge: of a workpiece. But some- table with " fence 10 guid~ Uw
tioll'S the bearing gels in the way. work. 011the l"'atioTable .13Is. I
As 1 was building the Patio used the rouicr table.

.The pilot bearing on a router

Ilut there was another prob-

Table. I needed 10round 0\.." tile


rabbeted ends of the lOP slats.

lem -the throat openingon the

BUI the bearing prevented the

fence is too wide for the slats. So

the workpiece. sec ~ig.I.


Itt:~tll\'EBEAAh'iG.
So hook the
bearing off the bit by removing
Ille screw that holds it in plat-e,
see Fig. 2. Note: On some router
bits you C(III~,remove the bearing-il hcldsthecunerin place.

get hung up in the opening.

cuner from making contact with the comer of the workpiece can

No. 75

~\lXIUARY I'ENCE.To gel

around this problem. 1 made an


auxiliary fence from Masonite
with a smaller opening. Then I
clamped this to the router table
fence, see rag. 3.
Woodsmith

SURING

AtMOvto

17

OUTDOOR

PROJECT

Redwood Planter
This versatile redwood planter fits into almost any garden or
patio arrangement. There are four design options to build, and each has
an adjustable shelf to accommodate plants of differen.t sizes.

ne oflhe most inlerestingthingsaooulthedesign


of this planter is the options. The basic planter is
a square unlt, Building one that's twice as wide gives il a
different look. And by adding one with longer legs, you
can create an attractive grouping (see photo above).
AD1t1SL1BLE SlIELF.

Another nice thing about this

planter is something you can't even see from the outside


-the sheIL Il'sadjustable like the shewesin some bookcases. so you can change the height of the sbelf to fit
different-sized polled plants. This means the same
planter can show offshort plants in the spring and taller
plants in the summer.
Also. the slab that make up the shelf have W1PSbetween them. So rain watercan't accumulare in the bortom
and harm your plants. Or the planter.
CONSl'RI'cnOS. Since a planter has 10 be strong and
stand up to the weather. I used water-resistant plastic

18

resin glue in the mortise and tenon joints that connect


the legs and ralls.
For the sides. I did SOll1ethingdif("rent. The side slats
have to be able 10 expand and contract with changes in
humidity, so Ihey aren't glued in place. They're held
between the ralls with tongue and groove joints.
\\'01)1).1 builnhe planter out of redwood. II's an aurae
tive. straight-graioed wood that's resistant 10 rot, But
there are other woods, like western red cedar and
northern white cedar. thai also stand up well to the
weather. Or you could build one of fir or pine, then
palm it (see Details. page 32),
nxrsu. To keep the redwood looking good
throughoulthe year. I finished it with a combination of
spar varnish and lung oil.Th is seal. the wood and allows
light sheen to build lip. For more on this finish, see
Sources. page 31.

\V()(x!>mitb

No. 75

EXPLODED VIEW
OVlRALL DIMENSIONS:

....ry4

SHELFlAT

SHELF SLAT

...

0 I

1','

{~.

d:, ~~

~~.

r,
--'-

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CR.OSS SECTION
(TOPYllWJ

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:/"

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,
z

./

~~

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CROSS SECTION
IS10rVllW1

SLAT
OPTIONS:

;..1-----32h'

""'---0--:."
~I

......
t---

I"

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'-~;;;;;fJ
"'t:;;:;:;;:::;:;:;:f1
''I ',I
" II

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.1

18-',-

311.,-

25' ,.

191'"

10',,'

'

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SINGLE UNIT ISQUARE]

WOOD
A legs(~)

2J/AX21/~191~

8 !l00l$(8)

1~.2h-16'"
"'_x3\o:>11
-1'4 x 3~~
l'4x 2Y1 IS;-.

D ~lfSlols Cd)

E Cleo's (2)

II

I.

DOUBLE UNIT

1.1

- lL
'-

,w.

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MIDDLEHEIGHT

(RlCTANGU)

MATERIALS

C Side SIoIs( 16)

....
TAll HEIGHT

CUnlNG DIAGRAM
U" (31..'1-"31..,"). 96- (10.614. ft.,
b: Z2JZ'2< z lZZJZlll; ztZZZ%ltZ;"""'tZ1 'm::z&,-r~;;~Zt;;;)I7W{?Z01
2.4

t' 1,,- .. 3-.,-)

72- (lWO IOAROS .4 &d. Ft~(Oth)

b,...,.z;~n' .I,,;, ,t
I

II"

'Jit6 (~!c
51')"".'2" (3 1Sd.

n.,

bTJ,;zz 1.,,,,~,;, ,f1'02l

SUPPUES

(4) SOeIf SupPOrt PIns


Epoxy QlWater-Resistonl GIlX'

such osPlosttC i?ell<l GI\Je


Outdoor Finish or Outdoor POlot
(fa

ITlOI1O lnIO<matton

SourCEISpago 31 )

()(l

Inshas, see

F ~ i ~.
I ~+-~-:.-+I-~:---II-"":~---lI--7~-+I--=-~__,~
19

LEGS
When I bought the

as sltaighl as possible. you11nccd 10 estab-

4x4 redwood POSIS lish two Oat sides that meet at a 90' comer.
to make the legs. I
SQUi\IlE. FlAT SIDF.S.To do this. begin by
..~
learned something
placing the Oauest sideof each piece against
the rip fence. Now trim a narrow strip off the
about redwood 4x4 POSISare rarely opposite side (A). see lOPdrawing in F'1g. I.
kiln dried. So they're (Because the post. are too thick tocut all the
likely to be wei on way through in one pass, you 11have 10 turn
the workpiece end.fer-end and finish trimthe inside.
WET RF.O\\'OOO. \\'orking with very we! ming the first sllip wilh a second pass.)
Nexi. 10 cui side (8). position side (A)
wood can be a real problem. So 10 avoid
having the llOsts twist or bend as Ihey dried down on the table and rip off another narrow
strip, again in two passes, see second draw
ou~ I dealt wilh the llO.LS in three stages,
l'ir$l. 10 speed up the drying lime. I jug in fig. I. Side (A) and (13.) should now be
trimmed an <'qualamouru (V." 10 W') of dry flat and 90' to each other.
Ct'l'TO I'1NISIlED SIZE.Nowyou're ready
wood offall (our faces, Then I rough (''UI each
leg 2" longer than the finished length 10 10 cut the leg to finished thickness. To do
this. set the rip renee 2V. (rom the blade.
allow (or some checking on lite ends.
NC.Xl.I put the wood aside for a lew days. Then. with side (A) against the fence. rip a
(Don'l PUI il out in the sun. or burry the sllip (rom side (e). see third drawing. rig. I.
Then roll the leg one last time. making a
process -Ihal'n create more problems.)
",nally. J lrimmed all lite posts aeain.this pass with side (B) against the fence. see
timeto finaldimensions. To make the pieces fourth drawing in Fig. 1.

With the blanks CUi square. the legs can


be trimmed to finished length. see Fig. 2.

Once the
legs are cut 10final size.layoul the locations
01 four mortises on each leg. see Fig. 2. (II
helps 10 mark the top of each leg and make
allyour measurements from that end.)
Then, using the drill press. J bored the
mortises VII;" deeper than the desired
length of the tenon. see rlg.3a. 'Thisway.the
tenon won't bottom out in the mortise. and
the assembledjoim willpull tOIlNhertiJ!htly.
TOdo 11Iil>.first drill a VI hole at each end
of Ihe mortise. see ~ig.
3. (I used a special
mortising bit. see page 31.) Then drill a series 01overlapping holes in between the end
holes. Now "mill out" the mortise by $liding
the workpiece from side 10 side, see Fig. 4.
\Vhen uie morusesarcdrilled out, square
up the ends and clean up the sides of the
morrises with a chisel. see Fig. 5. You can
leave the ends round. buuheuyou will have
to round off the edzes of the mating tenens .
IA\'OUT A.'iDCl T1lIEMOlmSES.

........

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NOTE:
ORIU.
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Woodsmlth

LEGS ...'-'"II

'. JE!;.

OF.CORAl1\'
CVI'S. After cleaning up the ~
~
mortises 1 made a series of decorative cuts
Onlhe legs. Begin by rutting a sial around
the top end of the legs. This isaclually a%"
.....t.:
dado thar's cut around alIfOUrsides.(p
/ ~..."
To make this continuous dado. first ser ,..,.....:;;> ./''
your dado blade 10CUI II." deep, TIleD posl- ~
lion the rip fence 1~" (rom the blade. see
Fig. 6a. Sbop NOIC:Using an auxiliary fence
>,'
on your miter gauge will give you better control 01 the leg. and also prevent chipout as
'0.
you cuI Ill. dadoes, S<.'<1 Fig. 6.
Wilh the end of the leg butted to the fence.
CUI the dadoes on an four sides 01each leg.
~WI)I)I)CflA"ftER.

The next step is

table.
stopped
chamfer
Utere.
the topI cut
andthis
bottom
of the
legs on
Ute 100.
router
Stan by setting the height o! the chamfer
bilsoi"sr;,~GabovelherOUlerlablc.seeFil!.
&I. Then a1i~'I1the face of the fence so it's
Hush with the bearing on the bit
To indicate the extremes of the slopped
chamfer. I mad" lWO marks on each leg.One
mark (S" from the lOp end) indicates where
10 plung~ the rOUI~rII)stan the chamfer.
The second mark (ISVi' from the top) indicates the Slopping point Then I made a reference mark: 011 the router fence 10indicate
the centerpoint of the router bit,
Now tum on the router, and with a pivoting motion. plunge the leg against the fence
so the first mark on the leg lines up with the
mark on the fence. see fig. 8. Then slide the
Iej!10the lefLWhen the second mark Onthe
leg lines up \Ooilhthe reference mark on the
fence. SLOP and pivot th~ leg away from the
fCJ1c~.SCt FiIl.9.
TOP CH,\\ltERS. Once the corner
chamfe rs are completed, )'OU can CUI the
chamfers on the lop end of each Iej!.This is
aJ$Oa :"lb"widfcllamfc:rsoy()u don', have to
th,mlle'lhe
router bit.
Fig. lOa.
To make cuning
the sec
chamfers
more accurate.lusedaS" X 8"""uarepiecc of'l""'lhkk
ply'\\'cw.rl as

push block, SRi'" '-:-"IJ.!, )()

10,..

push block keeps the legs square 10 the

routertable fence.and helpspreventchipout


on lite back edge or the cui.
Now cut the chamfers Onthe top of each
leR.holdingthe leg finnly 10the router table
f.nce and plywood push block. Again. f<t!d
the I~gfrom rightto left.
ROTTO" OlAMPERS. Finally. 10 prevent
the legs from splintering when the box is
dragged across the ground. I routed smaller
chamfers Onthe bouom ends of the legs. To
do this, set the heighl of the router bit to
~16". see l'ig. lOa. Then feed the legs over
the bit. sec Fig. W.

~( . 7S

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10

rout the decorative "stopped" chamfers on


the outside corner oi each leg. see Fig 7.
(No te: TIle outside comer is the comer
formed by the sides without mortises.)
You could MIt this chamler wiUt a handheld muter. But since I was going to chamfer

~'L\

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l_~=~~~~~~d
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t ''"'f:-------::::----------l~-I

SIDES
Once the legs are
cemplete. you can
start work on the
sides. Each side eonsists of two rails and
four slats held in
place with longue
and groove joints.
--I RAIL"-I started by
resawing (from 2x4 stock) enough pieces
for the railJ! (B) to I V4"thick.Thcnt"Uteighl
rails to final width and Iength, see Fig. 11.
"'_"O~~.The rails havea I"long tenon on
each end tofitthemortises in the legs. Toset
up the saw, posltien 1111'rip fence as astopso
the outside edge of a dado blade is I" from
the fence, see Fig. 12a.
Now, to create 3 centered tenon, make a
pass on each face of a piece of scrap rail
stock. Slowly sneak up on the final thickness
of the tenon until itju$1 fusthemortise.Then
the tenons can be cut on the rails by making
a series ofpasses over the dado blade.
To create shoulderson the top and bouom
edges. re-set the height ofthe dado blade to
\14". Then stand the workpiece on edge and
make a series of passe" over each edge.
TO!o;Gt.ES. Once the tenons are cut on the
rails. the saw can be set up to cut a tongue
along one edge. This tongue hold. lite slats
in place, sec Fig. 13a.The V,"-thkk tongue
iso(fnteronthethickncsso(th"rnil-it's
set back ~." from the face.
To make thetougue.the dado blade has to
be "buried' in a wooden auxiliary fence so
only V4" of the blade is exposed, see Fig.H.
"1"11 raise the blade lV." above the table.
Now. with the Iace side onne rail down, cut
one side of the tougue. see Step t.
Then. lower lite blade and cut the other
side. leaving a Vi'thick tOI\l,.'Ile.sec Step 2.
t'IIA~n"R TIlE RAlLS. The last step in
making the rails is tochamlerlltrw ofthe four
edges (,11)/ the edge closes! to the tongue).
Chamfer lite orher edge 011the tongue side
with the fence set back 114" from the bi~ sec
Slep I.Fig. IS.For the remaining edges. align
the bearing Hushwith the fence, sec Slep 2.
SI;\'JS, Arter Ih. tongued
rails are
complete. Ih~ groc>v<.fisiR'" (C) can be
made 10 6t between the rails. refer 10Fig. 13.
(There arc (our slats on each side.)
To determine the width o( each slat,
measure the shculder-to-shouder length o(
a rall (l4W') and subtract \oi" to allow for
expansion. Then divide by four. (This made
each of my slalS 3Vt wide. see Fig. 16.)
Now cut tile slats to length to equal the
distance between the mortises on th~ legs.
GROOVE TIlE SI,.\TS. \Vitll tile slats CUI to
size.cura V."...idcgTOOVein the ends lO fit tile
tongues on the rail. see F'lI!. 16. (l:ote:Offset
the groove %" from the fronl face, see I~g Ilia.
CHAMFER. To complete the side slats.
chamfer all (our edges on the (ace side.

11

"

' .... " lAc" OFfSEI"


TONGUl,

L--_-=-__

22

RAILS

SURG. t3

(CUTOORl)
NOTE:

12

13

curttNONS

tomMOImSU

.-<::'.

c:

.d-

t ~."

,1

I
UG
lN5101

WK'

-f.:

_L

....

......

, .,

J~
C; tv

t.

f---+.-f

......

114

'r

11!

_./

,.....

III ;
",;',

1
.__

Sll atT \. 4" FROM

'ENet TOCHAMID
l'KJ$1I>O'

F(NCr

~'/7\';

r:

\'

,~,'

./
:I
~

16

:~~~
,...ct

WmtRHC[
TO CHAMlIH

TONGUf

' ,,"\'1
I

'I 2

DON'T CHAoMf'EA
'''SlOI lOG, \

THlSElOG ...

",(.

S(T lIT fWSH

'\ \ \,

II

15

1,.." .x. IJ....

r-Qf'S(T

SIOl

OFF-ClNTER tONGur

'AC!!

4"

r.:

HOLDS SLATS IN "LAC:!

I
J

,,'
[,.:

\
~!;h
V

11....

~
I

II,

ClHTtR TtHONS
....--OH IlAJIS

IlAJl

'"

firP
I
~

C~'R

a.

,"

IW1S ARE aESAWN I' ."THICK

--r:

l
,'to_

'

.'\

,.J

'1,.

a.
2tlo" __..I

t.t

,,"
SlAT

','

NOTE:

cur A TOtAl

s"."_'"

Of 16 SLAtS

Wooosnuth

r--

ASSEMBLY
After aUthe pieces are cut.the plantcrcan be
assembled, But first. I laid out and drilled

of the side units. then connect these by

Next, clamp the side assembly together


usi~ Iwo pipe damps, see Fig. 18. Lay the
assembly on the pipe clamps with the inside
1,1," holes 00 each leg (or pin supports.
(acing up. This way the clamp pressure wUl
Pt=<HOLES.The pins support an adjustable
shelf. refer to rig. 20. To position the holes.
be centered directly on the mortise and
tenon joints. see Fig. 18. Now. assemble
stand the legsupand markthe inside comer
another side the same way.
so the sets arholes ..ill face each other (that
is. mirrored sets). Then drill Vi'-deep holes IOI1g\IeS of the rails. (!he slats need room to
ASSE.MBJ. TIlE I'IANTEII.Finish assern01 the locations shown in ~~rg.
17.
move with c1,anges inhumidity.) Then apply bUng the planter by connecting the two
ASSEMBl SlOES. The easiest way to as- glue to the other two tenons and 10 the mor- completed side units with the remaining
semble the planter is 10fin;tpullogethe.rtwo
lis.e" of anotht..-Icg,andfit the pieee5logethcr. rails and slats.
adding rails and slats {orthe other sides.
Begin by applyiJlg glue 10 the tenons on
the ends of two rails, and in the mortises in
one leg. Insert the tenons. making certain
the tongues on the rails face each other.
Next,sude (butdoll 1glue) the slats onto the

LAYOUTHOW
'OR PLN SU9POftt'S

17

18

o.

NOTE:

ASstMali 0PP0Sm
StDU Ran

... t,

ADJUSTABLE
,-------,

SHELF

Arter assembling the


sides. enly one step
remains before the
planter is complete -

ance, (lbismade my cleats 15V."long.)


SIA1$. Nex~cut the shelf stats (D). To
aUow water to run of{ between the slats. I left
VI" gaps between each sial. see Fig. 19.
making
the adSo. to determine the width of each slat.
justable shell. The subtract :V," from the length of the cleat (for
sbelf consists of four the three 1,1," IIOp5). Then divide this measand two cleats, urement by (our (for the four slats). In my
L-_-=-v
-' slats
we ~ig.
19.
case, this made each $lot3'V4" wide. sec Fig.
ClL\1S. Cut the cleats (E) from 'I',"thkk 19.
stock 10 a width of 2lr!'. To determine the
To determine the length 01 the slats,
length of the cleats (E). measure ll.~
dis- measure from the drilled side of on. POSIto
tance on the inside of the planter from side the drilled side of the opposite post and subslat to side slat and subtract ~" for dear- tract W. (My slats are 1~4"long.)

---

19

131.."

-_

.'\S!;t.\WLY.1 romplcoc-oth(.'shelf~s..",,",bl)'

by screwing the dears to the sla.ts.The screws


go through the cleats and are centered Onthe
widthofeach SL1~"'"Fig.l9a.
To put the shelf in place. upone end down
into the planter. Then set the ends of the
cleats on the shelf pins and lei tbe other end
of the shelf drop into place, Sf!(! Fig. 20.
~lNI$H.To finish the planter. I used an
equal mixture of spar varnish and tung oil.
see page 31. It seals the wood and darkens it
only slightly SOthe deep nod tones of the
redwood remain visible. It also build. up a
soft sheen after two l'OaIS.

20

SHElf SLATS

o.

c~

SKEtf C1AT
.UTSON
PiN

CUAT

Nil. is

\'if oodsmuh

23

TOO

TECH~IQlJI:S

L S

Japanese Saws
W

,lIld lb. That third bevel across


the tip ot each toeth on a Iaf).1nc,,... w i.j!I'(l<md al such a
Sleep .nRI~ that each loolh is

h~n f fiNI pkk,'(j up a

) apan~'(' saw. 1 was


'11Irig1l('(1.II was '" lighl. and
and thv teeth were

thin.

like. knife point.


(.fm,,; 'TOOl-.n. If youwant
10 Iry iljapan<"<' saw. where do
YIIU brRin' I starred with a
dozuki (th,' japant>Se version of
a b .....k .......' I wanted to see how
It "Quid work on CUlling
d..,,,.. l-, tlLy,orbgreaL)
On..., III'. thai out of my S)'<I,-m.1 i>.'llan to u-e the dozuki for
'mall trimmillg;oo". and graduall) 1)...< ,m, comfortable y,ith
Ih, '11U1I-trukc and the fine teeth,
II......
much should you pay for

in"redibly sharp. I thought I


would ruin Ih(' thin I,..-Ih with
the fin-I ...tmke. ~1u~ic.'1\"
was not
th,y,a,lou ' n.t hadto learnto
u,,' rl1\,,....
Youha\'rtoadju>t yourthiDk

'nlland ....,.-u;Kh.,'CllIOmake
the 6rsl,-UI.)apan'_ '3w"hav~
long. thin handle-, usually
"'"TlIl'I'<"I y,'Ih rallan You bold
tht-m mt.r,-,Iik a hammerthan a
""'''
....
u-m-aw
(l 'J', ()'

1'1U. .,TItO,,'_ Bul

Iht' bi!: diffrr,nct " Ihat Jap3nt~~c.,ay,.~ cut on the p,,11


slrok. TIll' 1"('lh art 3Ill!Ied back toward
you, so a~ you pull they dig into the wood
\\oil)l only IIII' lis:hl~$1 pressure.

i~
under ten-um. it can be considerablythin-

ncr and Illlul"'~n'tlakt' ncar ule e.ffort to USt'


- nil o( whirh nu-an...more accurate cuts,
But, )lo\II\l\\,t, to make some adjustments
\\1lydld Ilw,lap;lnc>t! design their saws 10
CUIon die pull stroke? Aclually. when you in your appruarh IIIajapruw"" saw, CUlting
Ihink nboul it. Ih. question should be, why on Ih,' Ilull .Iruk" wilh 3 thin, liRbl saw
mean ...rl,fingillS: 11(1\\'\'OUl1Uki the sa". ho\\
00 \l,'('~t'rn ....'W~Cl.lton the push SlJ'Okp?
for u we-n-rn sa" blade 10 <'UIon the push much Iln ......urv )'t,U"I",pl)'.and evenhow you
: tll~'
"'I. iJ,!:ill ell vour
bcdv.
'Irt.kt". Ih. bl.d. h"" 10 be thick, Sliff. and u .....
.
n rm. \\ilh Ih, firs' ,wkt. vou tak~.
qUilt' ...tront:: '() it ~(Jn.btKkk \\'hen forced
) IIUllf ...1hoy, >harp the l('tth art'. and ho ..
Ihn.lIllh Ih,' ,,,,,,d. '' ~ig.I.
qUK'kl) L)h, -Ion' th."Ouah wood ..-i!h ,urTht"pull 'Lr..k. of japanese <aWSactuaJJ)
mak, ... m"re ><,n,,. ,\" lho teeth are puDreI pri,illwl) lild., rrort.
f.ach ,rv".:ul loom on a jap:U1t'''<' sa'"
Ihruullh Iht .... od. II pulb th .. blad., under
{I n ...ion. in ('(k,"' ..tr.u.:htmin,g
il Out and af- ha, thrt I.' b ..\c-l.... .-hiTt" \\t-:-lem- .. t}'lt

fordin\()l1'\'~'rcontrol. AI<o. sinceth. blad"

WEsnRNSTYlf
lHKK Il.A.Dl

..I':

IUCKllNQ..I';

../

'.""NT. /' .

!loll 1""',

s{."("

F~

fa

deform. I would buy ,I saw in th" S:W 10 $40


ranee (For ""'.Un,l .... ':'t4.'t.' pal-f{. 31.)
HI'J'I.I(E.o\IJU;

111"".". On.

of the b<'SIap-

pn>a<h..,. "10 lI<t a "''' with a replaceable


blade....... fij{. Z Ont am'lIll'~hl'n.' i< that
,om, 1", pb(''3bl. hlad., C.II Ix- in,..rted
.nto Ih(' lL,ndk- .1 an _k
.. hich Y"U m<I)
lind ""'I<"rlo .. ork..... Fill 3_
<.. I oIM'nod I~ .lIo...,.. ifilfits)OUtSlyl ..
..I " ..rk II )OUtik< a hllhl I"ueb y,ith a fill('
,-ul. \ ..1111pn.bubl) hke japanc<c saw"

OO%UKIIIACI(SAW

BACKS?A,=,W,--""

NlCU$AOY TO

"_/

cro~,,'Ultt,th h l\

o"' w~(l"n'l buythemost expensiv,.;Jl"


ahhuugh tlu- b<'a"ty I,)f the belief
Sfl"'~
i~
''-'1111l'hll{ C)lIl' of th ...
reasons for the
hi.llhcr pril'<' in Jilpant'~ ",'W$ is that they
have thinner black, -lIre!ll in the hands of
experience. but alco (~asy to break or

LOOSlN s(1tlW to
MOVlIlADI

CUTS ON IllUlLSll1tOKI

,J

/..

p.'N .....

""

NOn:

c:aoss SlOT

AUOWS aI.AD{ 10 at
MOUNTlO At ANGlE

a.

WESTERN CROSSCUT

......

.........

9USH

_
)

THIRD
IIVlL

JAPANESE CROSSCUT

=- ?PIIU

.J

c:; ::t
WOttKPlKI

No. i'i

DOZUKI
One of the mostpopular Japanese sawsisthe
doeukl (DOlE-oukey) backsaw It's the
most simtlar (0 iLS western COUDter,Mlr1. and
a good one 10 Slart with lt consists of a thin
blade that's supported by a metal "back"
along the top edge of the blade. And il has a
high numberoftecth per inch, u~uaIJyabout
26. TIle u-eth have almost no sri. so Ih,'Y CUI
a verv narrow kerf. This makes lhe dozuki
<'SpeCiallyltood for doing fine work.
Dozuki mean> "shoulder" in Japanese.
and
the original purpose ofthe

Sl"'...:~cuish()ul(letl;on tenons, see Fig. 4.


But because the blade is so thin. It's ideal for
cu[ting dovetails and other precision Joinery.
GRIt'. To IISCthe dozuki, hold il in one
hand. see FigA. You can use a lighlgripand
s llll have good control. To help keep the saw
aligned when rutting. extend your index finger on the side ofthe handle.
<:ROS$.c~Tl1NG. To start a cut, aligo the
blade just to lite waste side of lite CUI line at
the far comer oflhe workpiece. (Note: Use
your thumbnail or knuckle as a guide.)

fXnND tNDIX. flNG 1

TOIMPtovt

a.

Since the width of the blade and the strip

along the back of the dozuki limithow deep


you caucut, you'll needaditlerenucehnique
10 rulthrough stock that's thicker than the
width of the saw blade.
Todothis. start a kerfon one face.see Fig.
5. Then. without Slopping the cUlting motion. rotate the piece 90' and continue the
kerf along the cut line. see Fig. Sa. Keep
rolating the piece until you have a continuo
ouskerfalhhewayaround.
Now.deepen the
kerf on each face until you've CUIthrough.
CUTTING SEQUENCE

CONTROL

""

SHAUOW
KERF ON
AU'ACU

HOtDDOZUXl
WitH ONt.RANO
ROTAn:
WORl<Plta TO

CUTCOHr'HVOU5 )(JtJ

RYOBA
Ii nolhing else.a ryoba (R\'E.uh.bah) $3W will
considerably lighlen your lool box. 11131's
because it can replace two western saws, a
rip saw and a crosscut saw.
Ryob:omeans "double" and refers 10 the
blade-ilhascrosSCtlll""lh
on one side, see
fig 6. And ripping I('('lh on the other. see
Fig. 7. Ryoba saws come in several diCferenl
lenglhs-lhe
longcrthc saw. the longerthe
teeth. The longesl saws (13" or more) arc
designed for limber Imming. The teeth on
the medium length saws (I l" 10 J2") arc de-

signed forcarpenlry work. 111e shorter saws


(7" 109Vl1 an' for joinel')'
GRIP. The I')'obacan be held in nne hand
lik.. the dozuki, or "'lh bolh bands. see Fig.
6. \\'hen using both hands. try a "golftype"
grip with one or bUilt index fingers extendrd. \\'hile it may seem awkward at first.
I find usin)! this grip helps keep III. saw
aligned. Ialso notice that when ripping thick
stock, using both hands is less tiring.
RIPt'INC TECHXIQI'E. like the dozuki
backsaw.the smallerryoba sawscan be used

US( CiltOSSCUf UtrK

WHlNCUlT'ING
ACROSS GUtlN

for doing fine work. And when you need 10


do a particularly accurate CUI. tty ripping
with the saw in a vertical position. see Fig 7.
To do this, first Is),OUl3cut line on the top
And bouom faces of the workpiece. Then.
hold the piece so il extends ofi the bench.
Start the cut using the teeth near the handle.
then turn d,e piece overand continuethe kerf
from Uleotl,crside. Now turn lhe piece over
several times to advance thecut, As you near
the end oflheclIl. move the fulllenglh oflhc
saw vertically through the wood. see Fig. 7.
U.s JU,PPINGTEmf TO

CUT1NON ( ....roo

CUT TtNO~ CHUXS

WmiSAWlN
VIJITICAl POSmON

N .,
')
'(1,

\VooJ.mith

25

KUGIHIKI
U,ually, wh"n 1counu-rbon- a -;en....to hide
the head.J 61111>,' hole "'ith a dowel or plug.
But a]Il" II1uiJ1Rlh, dowel in the bole, I'm

eermcn. BUIIhl"\,aJ'l' important differences


b<'l",~:n Ihis '3" and other croSS<U1saws.
'O'~:I. The fir.\1difterence is the teeth on

l,te,'II with th" problem 01 trimming il flush


\\11h Ih" ",rl .. ". II" problem because I
want to "v"id "'rulching Ih.>surface ollhl'
wOri<pit'l"I'wheu trimming.
()nt 'I'ay to 'i(,I\!~'lhi~
problem is to U~ a
kuJlihiki (C()I'l!h ee- HF~:.k('().a Japanese
Ou...h cut "'\Ir,.
Fig. 8. The name means
"Iu rut Ilall," (..IM.:I~n
nails or dowels). The

the kugihik] haVl'no '<'I-theycuta kerf the


"'lIle width'" Ih,' bl,,,le. Thi. is both good
and bad. 11'<R"od because the teeth "'(In',
~,ntchIh, .un"... of Ih(' workpiece. Bul it
abo ml'nns Ih. blad.. can bind in Ill(' kerf
Illb i""'1 a pn,bll'lll when cutting dowels.

<.;t_~

kugihiki [,

"''1'0'....'111"~II'with 2IJ.261eelh

Ilow(",,(,.11 )otl nll,h..nlt It tenon, the bindInR ran bt- S(.\t_ n" (smce a tenon is longer
and IlIick,.,. Ihan. dow..l), see Fill. 9.

ru':>.IHIJ-.Anolhfr difference between

the kugihiki lind "I her eros-cut saws is the


blade i, much more ntlOblc.This means
car ...mu,1 b.ldken 10nol bl'l'akor"kinlt'"the
bladl' - .. SIriU'" limitation in a blade Iilal
o(len bind, in Ihl' k"rl
Since a kugihikl rf"I, $.10and i> lridey 10
us." il 'nalfll), 1,"'llh" fin,1 Iapaaese saw

I'd buy. In lar~ IIYIlU have a dozuki, uy Oush


cullinll ",111 it ~'
us teeth are set, thev
won't bind in the kc n.Just be carerul to protect ihe V.(Jrkpil",(t' from-cratches,

8
NOTE:
rtmtWlUNOT
KUl(H Sl.al-ACl

GRIJI SA,W
WltHONli_

TlCAOUOH ftNON

AZEBIKI
Thtrt ....aJJtJthcr rvobe ..t\ lc ~'" that has no
din-e I"t .....l. rn t'QUlvaIt"lll_ It'~ called me azebiki ,1'.11-1,hII~.~ k.~,),..,..~i)!.W. It has a

In \~

tlJ.!tlt 'lttlatIOltt.

~) It .. htlptuJ \\ ben

vou'n dlilns: funlTII11T:boat, or home repair


work t>-"nu~ )fl1ll"fln u...._It in ('Iu~spaC'( ....
,h,," d..ubh...'tI~,'dblad.. cPfllr,ffl on Iht' 'AililutJI dan'.iij!lnJ,l"II.IT(UJ1din~...urfaees,
Tbr- ./Ibiki', curved blade allows you 10
,nd ,,[" I"n~ neck IJk" Ih. ryoba.lh, 32<biki h", ..""",ul 1''I.'th on one sid. or I"l 'I.tI rill in II", middle 01 a board (or an)'
bL"k and nppinJ( I.,thun the olherside.
wurk ,urftll"', IIk<' ,I wall or the floor). se~
t NIQI''_' Io\1l!\I" Ilito UZt'biki is most o(lt'n
Iig. te), Alit}..i,H.'(illl;t"" rip tt>eth on ullesidc
lIM'() Ie. rut nlt)11iSt't\ 311(1groove~ in 111(' 311<1('nl ...",ul 1(.'t'lll(111tfll" other. tile- azebiki
middl""1 "lx,,,d. lIntblidinJl dovetail<. But l"an ('tit" hll tllt' J,truin or ac..ro~ it.
I ~J-':(,nil V.l-lflkJ Ttl ~u13 mortise or:1
bt'rnu~' elr it,'Iniqllt ..llAPf'. '\!11a11si7..t".UJI(l
Ji~hl v.(ilothl.it rail aJ~1 be: tl"(_'() to makt~l'"Ul!'1 ,lui ill II...middl."fa board. ,1aJ'I by making

10
Of

STAt' ... ,
WITH $(itlU

0,

a '<ties ollil:hl ,,,I'


X"'IX'"a1olllllht>cut
line tu 1:'eI Ille kerf ntabTIsht'd.Then apply
Ill......pn'''u!'\' a, Ihe k, nllCh d<t'J)t't'.
T tJ (l~.tr OUI Iht" ....awdu ..t, it lu.'Jp:;:to rock
the azcbiki in ,h., k,'rf .., Yuucut , sec Fig. 11.
This isone of til" real ilclvanlagesof a curved

bl.cI, nVNa ,mllghl bL,d ... A rlozuki cancul


lItl"lV'", inmid l",n<'1 lJut ii' ,lmighl blade
won', d"orlh" ",wdu,1. IlWC'JrVl'<l bladeo(
Ih., at~biki,hOI,,-v,r.liIl" 111l's:lwduSI(lUIo(
Ih,' k.,n 1~li, OInk," III\' rullinl( ra;;I~rand
tht ....i\\("3,i4'( efl ('("1101)

11

IJGHT 'ASSU

No. 75

CUnlNG GUIDES
Among the tools you might find in a traditional) apanese toolbox an: block gauges or
cutting guides. These are small wood or
steel blocks that help start a saw cutting at
the proper angle. set' Fog. 12. I like using
them will, )apan<,:' saws. and thl')' can be a
big help witll western saws. 100.
I have two sets of blocks in my toolboxone for culling miters and dovetails in !I:l".
thick stock and another for cUlting both
joints In ~"'Ihick stock. (Note: Each guide
am be used lor only one thickness of stock.)
One block in each set guides cuts for 45
and 91)' see photo.The second block guides
10' cuts for making dovetails. see Fig. 12. I
made tile guide blocks from oak. but any
dense-grained hardwood would work well.
)IAKINGTIlF. GliIDES. To make a set of
guide blocks. start out ...ith a 12"long piece
of stock, t'V."thkk, WId2"wide.lbe length
is longer than you need lor two blocks. but
tile extra lengtb makes it safer to cut the
gT'OOV(>S and angles.
First. cut three groove-sIn fit over the edge
olaworkpiece.Tndothis.scllhedadoblade
for the thickness of the <lock you will be
working on (for example. 'l'l'J.
The next siepis to cuuhe I>ieepinto ),'llidc
blocks with anllk>d sides To do this, I used
Ilw table saw. First. forlhe~5' /90' llUide.IiIL
the blade to 45' and make a cut close to one
cnd. see Fig. 13.Then sei tile blade back 10
90' and make a cut 2" from tlte firsL Next.tt)
cut the dovetail block. reset the blade for 10
and then make two parallel cuts about 2"
apart. (Aguidewith two parallel angll>d sides
will let you cut both angles of tit, tails and
pins byjust turning thcguide block around.)
I)SJN(;TIlE GIIIl)ES.To use a guide block.

HOLD oa (!,AMP CU1TJNC


G,,"o( ON WORXPIKI

CJ

KElP MAOt fWSM


WITH aUIDE TO

lSTA8U$1oI KERf

13

ClNTfR GIOOvtS
ONSfDES

0,

(\~e~~~r~

.
....~

GUlO[

10'

IDOmAn.
WAn,

oovrrAII.

,.

GU'"
-WASTll

..,.".;...;""

Nuw start your cut, k,'Cpiog thl' saw blade


set the groove in the block over the edge of
the workpiece where you want to make. cut, flush against tlte block until the kerf is wd~
Yeucanclampthccurting gulde In the work- established. Then you can remove the
piece. or jusl hold ibc block in place as you block. or keep it there to complete the cut ir
your saw blade Is wid,' vnough
saw. see Ftg.IZ.

EAST MEETS WEST


Ou arecem visitLO mylocalbardwa<eslure.

western S3W~.this
has long. sharp.

( discovered some wcst(!""'llyle saws with saw


JapaneSM"tylc teeth, see photGatri!1hl.
Instc:ld uf havill!! twO l><w~ll;"S on most

three-bevel Japanese
t('Clh. see photoatlell.
One manufacturer, S(aIlley. calfstheir lineof
hybrids Short Cut" saws. and make!' them
in Pennsylvania, The lin(' includfs panel

I~
litis claim py timing h"w long it
look IDmake a cut willllhe lSb400g 1"001
Box" saw. and !hen Ilming !he=cul
",it,h
a IljIdilional western crosscin saw, The
saws. backsaws, and a 1'oolllox saw.
<;tanley has mad,' some chang 10 Ihe "Tool Box" sawdid makt'illbto)lgb wiU15(1.
lraditlonal .IaJ)<lMre crosseur too1b desil:n. fewer 5!tokes. but it look me rnesamc
The most obvious change i~
Iilat tile teeth length oflimc as with lhe tr.d1tional sawpofntdown.1lO1back like a lllpane8<' saw, or ~ullingon both.Irak"" k hardwork,
The-S1ltf.Ict!eflby the "Tool Box" saw is
forward like a westem.saw. Thi, meanslbe
Sh(.rl ell/" <'1110'Ittth Ita'. 1/1''''' 61'1" Ik bladecurson both the push and plill woke. vllJ'jI rough. But on Ill. whole. I like it Cor
1I18'kingnl1lgh cuts ia hardwood and for cut1,1;,JOI""" 8#8<I'r3. BlIttlltll TJ(I17l.t$1'YUa'" which5lan.le>.'sayseutsthc'W"od5O\Jaster
ung-COIlSIlUCtiongradcIwnbef.
d(~"'/l/o" ftfll 1)011,IIUS), and pUU(lfJin/(r.jJ. than con~tioJlll] ~ws.

Nu.7~

li

CO~TEST

SHOP

-----------!

Sawhorses
R

c<pont;<.10 the sawhorse


contest (announced in
'~'(H~/A)UfIJlNo. 73) was surprising, WI' thought we were
Iamillar with must types of
sawhorses, bUI couldn't believe
thl" widt \'a.ril'iy lA't'recc.ved,
Hundreds or rl~actc:r.o. sent in
their sawhor-e plans. They
ranged (rom simple boxes 10
compl ..x dt.,Ij{o,,-,th.lt ....ere more
lil, .. "rkbench modules,
nlR~r (,liCIt'" Then carne
the chall"nll"
h"...10 make
on!<oro(allthl,and "",uaU\' pick

The differences

between

knock-down sawhorse.
What I like most about thi,
folding model is that it goes 10getherquiddy. And when
ir. assembled, it's almost

the

three group' arc mainly related


to stab ility, load-beartng
strength.and portability.
R)\(()CK,I)OWl\, Our favorue
knock-down sawhor'l' Is the

like a having a conven-

simplest to build - )'IIU jusl


draw the pattern onto plywood
and cut il OUI. refer 10 Fill, I
And since it knock ...do w1\t'!'>
~rfM(or~m('()n~ ..ilh brrated

SHARPINING tiPS
Oil:-.tont... warerstones. grinding
wh(~+, and ,.j)arpcnllll1alds- howdo
you {)(I!OU11'. tht.'n1>,,(, they're easily accevvibl .. and can be cleaned up
qukkl) , If \ Oil have aJI)' storage ideas.
or .n) WllClU(.' ,harpcmng lip", we'd

n"~1o."''T10liAL. U you
don't mind giving up

storage space. you can

Uk,' 10 ..." them


\\ "11 publi-h th< ~sI sharpening
ti~and ..(orage idea...in upC'Oming i~
!!t-u(.
... \\ uuu- ....\\ ill receive S 100 anda
11'",.1." It" \t."tcrTry Square
plical~ or ,imih.r entries will be con<lden-d In the order w. receive them,
Send your ,harp! nlng lips and
sto"'lI(.' id"as (posunarked no later
than July IS, HillI) 10 :ihop 'lips Conrest, 1\',",11",,;1/1. 22(~) Grand Ave"
lle,; \10inc._.l_O_W_3f~_);_1l_2_, .-:.

no-

SAWHORSE
....

1
S",
.L

The problem wilh most knock(town ~,\\llllO~~lS they're not


v"ry <Iurdy-Ihey wobble ifyou
put much ((Ire...on rhem,
But Ih(' d'''''j(1l ,,'nt in by Joe
TOrTe>:of Mad........ CaUfomia
minimi74'" thi"problt'm by using
a 'I o( tab-. thaI fil in <10.. to
-lock 'Ih,' Pt,...<t." log<'lhcr.
('O'omtl mo, To mak .. a
";l1l:I" <3who........d...,. th...pat,
1t'fD din'CIly onlo ~,-thick ply.. 00<1 and CUt!>ut the pil'tt>o If
you'", building more than one.
ust' the .....
a templale.
"-""F\tR.' ~EQlEliCE. Start
by in",rtjnjl th~ cro" brace into
th(' hole. in the leg~, Then.
malch Ih(' ,Iot< in the top to the
legs. Rnd <lid"Ih~ lOPin place.

.304'.-0

CROS5BRACE
6\."

END
UN!T5

,l)
"..

-"

....

-]
TOP RAIL

I ","

..
_.s,"

2".-

CROSS
BRACE

..,

15' ~..

.. ". ........

,-~

....-i-: '"

..

...

1..

,'

",'

- .. ,

a.\

"

)"

,....

0_
..,._.,
2.~ Sl..-W

.,'

SltDnMA

TOP RAIL

3':"j

.. .....

pi''''h.'

18

NEXT CONTEST

tional sawhorse,

build a coO\'ellliona] saw


SlOtagt' space.In compari-on tl' horse, refer 10 Fig. 3.
These sawho ...ses are
the other group" the knockdown de<ign i< probabh the typi..'ally made from COlimost limited in ,lability and <truction lumber. 2>;6'5,
some: ..........
hoN'"\ to '('''3ttJl? here sIMlgth (ThoughaCll'rbuildinll 2x4', and lx6'" Thi:. 011('
(W~I,riginallv had Ihc; s.'hl-dulcd a pair. \\-e wert" ..."Urpri~"(1ht)'4 i,no exception. And ifyou
10 fill one 1XI$I~ of 11',,,.,,,,,11,, strong they actually are.)
make more than one, thty
bul you can .......
wh.t happened.)
FOUlDOG,The folding '3'"
can be stacked on lOp of
II'e quickly noticed most
horse we rho",' i, 'iJ(llifi,'.,ntly each other,
plans fit int"on.o(!h~~groups:
Stronger than the knock-down
Since it's made from
knock-down sawhorses, folding version, refer to ~ig.2,Alld~ince larger dimension stock.
it folds up neatly, it doesn't take it"lhe strongest and InOSI
sawherse-; and conventional
up muel1 uiore S)J3C(' 111311
a <table of all three types.
sawhol''SC''.

KNOCKDOWN

I.l.lybt Ihar, why you see beatupold sawhorses Uk" this still in
U\.;t' on construction sites.

"

....,.

''''.''-'':

'

.,
t
__
I~
..
"

_../

No, 75

---=-=-==

FOLDING SAWH0r-RS-,-E
2

SAWHORSE
fOLDED

END VIEW

'6-,

CUT l1.t:t'".w'IOE

DAOO~.on:P

..

'

TOP RAILS

$ll OfT All C _./

(I."

part to thlssawhorse isthe hardware. when it's folded up. there


isn't enough clearance to install
the bolts or hinge SCI1.'WS.

aDOAI ADOING ......

NUT

-'6----4-1

~O\\'the

BRACfS

leg'C<Iilbebolted 10the mils and


the hinge pins re-installed

CONVENtiONAL

GWE LtG 10 RAIL

c.

IOlTS

To ,;olvp this. JiM screw the


hinges to the top rails. Then remove the hinge pins.

SCUWHNGES
IN PLACi

b.

lOP squeeze lOP


Touseil.juSI
enos. The I ricky

'-.)
,.toO

I( you

CONS1lIt

SUDlfAllS

One reasonwe
the fold
ing sawhorse sent by Don Paul
of Arthur. North Dakota is the
unique way it folds and unfolds.

pick it up by reaching
under the
rails. the legsclose
up,
the
rails tozerher and the legs
spring open.

COONTtRStHIC $11HOlf ..,," OftP

.....

... WOOD
SCit(WS

o.

fOR HlNCE
MOUNnNO

AITACH CHAIN
W1TH II x 1'f..t-

--,

tlld)

SAWHORSE
3

SIDE VIEW
'.

END VIEW

__

SfE OffAJl A

TOP RAIL
(b6)

SU
OUAlL.

A well-built conventional sawhorse gets its <lability from leg:;


thaI are splayed from end to end
and from side to side, To make a
sawhorse like this means cutlillg ccmpouud miters,
01.Lf I'a\'oritc design

END
BRACES
LEGS

(1.6)

(2.0<4)

CUT 10 Frf

/
20' CUT ON aOlM (NOS

g(l$

around this. 11came from Rick


Schertz of MOWl!'dQUa,Illinois.
set' Fill, 3. The legs (II'(' >playl!<!
(]Illy from side to <iric. BUI it's
gOIend tc end stability too-not
from compoundcutson the legs,
but from notches in the lOP mil
tt
1HE NOTeR, The
tricky part 10 this sawhorse is

b.
S'''''

SECOND:

fIRST:
GlUt AND NAil
UGS IN PLACE

t-

'-~

ITlll<;

SECOND:
G.WtAND

SCREW END
au.CB TO
LEGS

,'Ullil1l1lhl''' angl<'<i notches, I

cut tIlt' .IId, tor limits of the


notch wllh handsaw and re-

.a

JC. II"..
WOODSCUW

mll\,t,('ltU'Y.ll'tl'WJ:':lh~a:chi~:Iot':I~._-====================================~
....~';1./')
' --

\VooJsmith

29

COMMENTS

AND

QUESTIONS

'Ialking Shop
WEAIHERED

FURNIIURE

Alt~r we buill the redwood


Adirondack fumiture last summer. we len it out on the patio,
This spring I OOtiCl'(!\hat some
otthe redwood had turned gray,

ItWiveme the opportunity to test


a couple methods (or 1"i'St0ri,pg
outdoorfumiture,
I(you like the gray color redwood takes en, you canjust rinse
and lilllllly,;crub the wood 10 remove any dirt, see photo A.

c,~f.:STEIMEl'IIOn.

To

re-

mc>vc'Ih,> gray and lighll.'ll IIw


wood. I tried a "deck cleanerbrightener" available at most

horne centers,

StEPPED

In most cases, you simply


spray or brush the product on,
Alt"r letlinR the soluuon work,
scrub tlte wood with. stilfbrush
and then rinse (not shown),
lWO.sTF.P METHOD,Another
method 1 tried (and preferred
since it offers more control) is
recommended by the California
R,'wood Association.
To remove the dirt and gray,
SlTUbthe wood with a solution 01
011'> cup trisodium phosphate
(!'Sf is a common cleaner) per
gallon of water, see B. Then,
rinse and repeat ifnecessary.
Now, to lighten the color,

brush on a solution of t-olCUP oxalic acid crystals dissolved in


one galJonofwater. (rsPaodox
alic acid are both available at
hardware stores.) Then leI the

solution dry and rinse, sec C,


RFl1<IU, \I'hen the wood is
completely dry.youcan refinish,
sec U. I applied two coats of the
original finish, see page 31.

SOUrnONs.we temporarily

the problem by ndjl.sting the tip


teuce or the r'dJ1f011 your saw,
[( they're not adjustable, Y""

SHOULDERS ON IENONS
cuuenonson the table saw. Kct:p

the ....orkpiece beued agrun$l the ""lvet! the problem by clamping


rip fence as YOIl make a rut. And a block to the fence, sec fig, 3,
make sure sawdust doesn 'I build This method doesn'tcompletely

up along the fence between

can attach an auxiliary fellCP to


the rill (enee,S('t' Fig. 4. Then by
placing shims between the

eliminate th e problem, but it


doesminimize it,
For a more permanent solu- fences. you can bring the auxiliplece mayalso b<' part ofthe probIcm. If the ends aren't square, it tion, you may be able to correct ary fent'" go'teI the table top,
won't butt flush to the fence So
FlHCt 1$ NOT90
each CUI you make will be a
1
to rUlE
2
different distance from the end.
I'm hat1illgl'ro1fblt' C"l(tl;llg
Thiscauses stepped shoulders .
SETUP. I(your technique and FdIST CUTS
.tiJll~'ith(Jjll(lt'''i!d
feUf"'X U~;
11!l(J
dntl bl(1.ap (IU 'tit! Iltblr ~/llfl. workpiece check out, but you're ....MADE
fA,C[ OF...._
Ttu fitfJ' rut.~art ox, J'1l1 J,'11I;-',' still !telling stepped shoulders, ON
WORKf>lta
.-....
your rip fence is most likely the
111/(1(" tilt IIY)"~'pirX" t)Jl (dgr
problem (as il was in my case).
"",l'llflk,
tiel' 4,'(1 and
The face of the fence is prob~/''''J,/,Jl'r ('utA. tIff' .'(ltCJ"Idt.t,.-,'"
ably leaning ("'''tllvi the blade
r(,lll" IJllt It "1'"",,. \\'IIot y;I'fl",t~
- irs not 90' to the table. (It'S
Bwl'1rllIl1;'"
hl'! III '1,1. \/It:I,ig~11l shown exaggerated in Fig.!.)
Iel<J)t'ri('11Ct>d Ihe same problem But yuu won't notice Ihis probAUJaI..lAAY FlNCf ANO
...hen making the ICR$ for the lem until you CUl a tenon with
3
NOTE: IoIAKl MOCK
Stfl,MS MING FENa 90"
4
,-=::::!~~5UOHT1.Y HlGHtlt THAN
(our shoulders, Here's why.
Patio Table in this Issue,
F::::!..... TOrAW
DIJ'II< Of CUT
When you CUI the (wide) F
"I~ 1~()8I..b\I,
A "stepped"
shoulder is created when the shoulder. on the faces of the
four shoulders of a Wnon don't piece, the piece contacts the
I
align, ntis Call be caused b)' fence near the bottom.see ~ig.
But when you fliPlh~pil'Ceon
several sttuatiuns. the '0'.3)'
you're using til., table saw. U,e rdstelorut the (narrow) mouItk-n;.
.condition of the workpiece, and it contacts the fence higher up.
111ispushes the piece away from
the way the table saw is set up.
TECIlXIQl~, There are two the saw blade creating' stepped
\hings 10 remember when you shoulder, see Fig, 2,
cuts,

11U; WORKPIECE.The work-

"-..-.,

~t"

3(1

\V"odsmlth

:-Jo. 75

PROJECT

SOlJrCeS
ACCINTLAMP
\'loodsmith Project Supplies
is offering a hardware kit for the
N:ceot Lampshown on page 12.
The kif includes all the electrical
pansand support hardware. The
brass inb}' strips. "'in~antghle.

and shade can be ordered separately, see below. (Nole:This kit


does nut include wood, assembly screws. or finish.)
Accent Lamp
775100 Accent Lamp Hardware Klt
S7.95
(1) Six FOOL Coni and FlU)!

(Gold Colored). UL Approved


(I) Slraight Fixture Pipe, II"

Long, W'LP. Thread, 'Illru!d<>d


Both Ends. Brass-Plated
(I) B=$ Hex Nut and Sleel
Lock washer, fitsF'ixturePipe

SUPPLIES

(1) Steel\Vasher, 1"Dia.


(I) Check Ring. Brass-Plated.

I~"Dia,
(1) Shade Harp. Two Piece.
Bras.. PIated,7"
(1) Ught Socket, Brass-Plated,

Push-Through On-Ofl S"iICh,


ULApproved
(I) finial Cap.Brass-Plated

IlRASS STRIPS. The l.amp


shownonpage 12hasdccorativc
brass strips, w. bought theorig-

inal strips from a hobby shop.


\Voodsmith Project Supplies
is also oflcring the brass strips,
775150 Brass Accent Strips,
.064"1'hick. V,I' \~lde, 12" u'OI:.
Box of "'i8ht_ ......$5.95 per box

INST,\l\T GU E. Mer some experimenting, we found out that

It should stand up 10 most outMORTISING .ITS


door conditions and is available
epoxy glue didn't hold the brass To drill the mortises for the Red at home centers. hardware
strips to the wood very well. So wood Planter, we used special stores, or the sources below.
we tried using a variety of "in- mortising bits mad" by Vellllont
FlXtSH. To finish these outAmerican,
These
are
similar
LO
a
doorprojects.l
applied twecoats
stant" (l:yanoacrylate) gluc$.
The one we chose sets up in 20 Forsmerbit. but have a long Gulf oi a 50/50 mixture of Meto SOseconds and heldthe brass to pull thechips<>ul (If a mortise. Closk.'y'~ Man 0'\"8r Satin
strips securely in place.
We use them on the drill press, Spar Varnish and McCloskey's
Stain Con[l'ol1er& \'{ood Sealer.
This instant glue has the con- see Fig. 3 l1l1 page 20.
Woodsmith Project Sup- (Thisisa thinned down tung oil.)
sisteo~'y of cold honey so it fills
offering three individual These productsare sold at home
gaps. \" e recommend you also plies L~
order the solvent to remove glue sizes of there bits (you need a centers and hardware stores, or
from your hands and clothing.
\,<~.bit for the Planter), or ihey
can be ordered (rom The Wood
775210 Special 'T Glue, 2 uz, can be purchased as a set,
workers' Store, see below.
PAD1T.On the back cover
boule,
$9.9S 278-647
8il
$8.95
775220 Ultra Solvent, 2 ot.
278-650~ 8it
,. $9.95 we're showing a pine Planter
bonle
~
S4.95 278653 ~~"BiL
SIO.95 Box primed with a coat of Rust!.o\.\lP SHADE. Lamp shades
278-654 Set of3 8its $28.95 Oleum's light gray I'lood Saver
Printer. Then it was sprayed
can be purchased at many deOUtDOOR
GLUE
with two coats of Rusl.Qleum's
partment stores. Finding a
AND
FINISHES
birch white Wood Saver Enamel
square shade may be more diffi
cult. but we found oursata local Since both the Patio Table and from an aerosol can.
Rust-Oleum's Wood Saver
ligbtingshop, \Voodsmith Pro- Planter are Ukel)' 10 sitout in the
rain
and
sun,
Iwanted
touseglue
products
81'<' available at many
ject Supplies is offering the
high quality square linen shade and finish that would stand up to paint stores and home centers.
shown in the photo on page 12. thc'$C: conditi(lf1~,
JAPANESE SAWS
775-175l.amp Shade, 12" Sq.
EPOXY. A two-part epoxy glue
x 8" lIigh. White Linen ... $27.95 is the strQngesi wru(!fJlroofglue, Japanese saws (shown on pages
but it's expensive and cured 24 [0 26) are availablefrom Ille
PATlOTAJlU
epoxy won't come of! anything follo,",ing catalogs. Please call
\Voodsmith Project Supplies very easily . It's dilficulllo scrape each company lor a catalog or
is offering ihe threaded insens off squeeze-out mihou! tearing more information.
up splimers of soft redwood.
and bolts for the Patio Table.
Tbe kptm. "'00U0 Constantine'"
~~
Patio Table
PI.AS11C RESIN. Another op- ~
ooo.s37-7820
Gam-u
lVook
tion is a rnolsture-resistant plas- Rida Japant.ti('
775-300 Patio T.bl~ Hard~221-2942
ware l<it
$2.95 tic resin glue (such as Weld- Tool, tee.
41s.&h17t1O
Gri:nI)Impom.
(4) li'l6" x 111!" Macbinc Bohs wood Plastic Resin). Plastic Th(!\\'QO(~'
~1...s.537
resin is an inexpensive tan Stort
(4) Washers
\\~OQdt'T"afi
powder that's mixed with water.
612-123-2t99
t<lO-:J2S..lI""
(<l) !j{1~"Threaded Inserts

It."

ORDER INFORMAIION

ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES


Si)Iliiar

"(lrd~(I(lrntl"d$uppl;'~

Illlly

JUJ/Olllld i" tJlelollou'i~lg

ce,taIO(}$.Pll!(ls, rnll cacl, compa" y for a cata log ar mformation,


llrid$le CiI)'Toot Wor1<.,
~

/n.knd Glilt

C(JnsWltioe~tt
ltlO-~
14(' "'J> Pu,.-'., Srn
J,. rlJ~'GI.tW./",
.,." . ~ar "'G r" . ,
PftJ.II ~

S,,,,,,...

~.I"
,j.(..,~

C'rlIf'llotl\lln '~tWld
Sc!nin (, .
~).l.~,1,7
/.AI'HP ,'tIrt.,. n,._/nl
I ,.,." I'!.,
Jl~ ,.
Gilt,

Nn. is

l.elc:htutl$t \Vork.<iliops
1100-32 H1840

La rnlJ Part 1"lIto"t


t:lwf', nfY'tJud

Meist'i

lHAlI'rl

Ha:rd\\-"1lJ"e

1IOI.I-HI-!I810

\\'oodatd\
1lOO-22S-1 ts3
J,,_tU til~. Tltfrtk~
J~. ,VU'It.Iu"9 8i1.

R""in GINA'"
,,,.. WoocI.wr1<crs' s.u...
P!(Ulhr

BYMAI'L
Til order by mail. use the f<lnn
enclosed whh a C1.IJTCflt issue,
The order {onn includes iafcrmatlon on bandling ~ shipp;og charges, and sales tax.

Send yourrnall order

tc)l

612....23-2199

301-~
l..a" p Pfjrl . $IIud ....

"'nod !j,ol .. r, PtcuiJt

Wl;>OdsmithPro;ertSupplies

Woodwork ..... SupplY

Des Moines. lA 50306

rlt rWiJ,.,j lilt .-rf

Wood ".""'"",Supply
31$..>97

-3i<3

S,.,,. VdI'W"JI

.')w"

RUI" GI'f'f"

of ~~8'
Mexico
(n",

VISA, Master Card, or Dis-

P.O. Hox t 0350

ready.

1. 00...447002
NI/(t:

i"ri"".ochft1

'Q<J""I(Jf'

~ftf'AIff!"I(> 711M.

~9292

I"

For la>te<t service use ourTl'>U


Free order line. Open Monday
through Friday. 8:00 AM to
5:00 PM C~OLraITIme.
Before c:alHnll, have your
tQ_Card

tu'NPP~
Paluon RtIl'd",~.&.uf.

l~f(JlU (;/ ..,,~ TltrtotiN


I.AR(~!;.
,'anruJr,

."PHONE

Cl J,.".~

Woodomnh

31

~----------~~~~~~~------A

LAST

LOOK

Final Details

... All ACCCltt l.Att/'p

lot)~'1!flood i"S' obovt n"!I'


.rltertgo" display it, C/wosethe woods (1) ('(Jillm.<I
or l'OOml"ate If);fl, ot her ,u rnu lire;" Illf rOUI't.

Til'" Pla/t/t." Box i~uuie Jj'o", pi", 111('/1


11(11111,11 "/,;Il'. B'lt tllf 1Xl;1'( dorsf"( ",(J, uu drr
rat ,.. r),nu1.I' }"Cd ranfS 0'1 ,1,# It'g~d"d M,tl, A"t1I~.

Japanese Saws

Patio Table

The blad

0'11 Japan'$t 8al<'$ arerervthin

alii/

jlexibl(. Tbis mea"~ tht'!1produce finr kerf. nnd


{lit" Utiliprf.ix tight-jittingj<Jillt".

32

Spli"'~ (m lite ''OI',w78 ofl)'1ll PutW Table areflt


jt<.<lfurgood look s. 77u,!/(J/~o .,lrel1gt}II''' Ih' mit"n;
.lId make if M.iPTlna_mIJ/e fhe eight4fjru'lifi'(l m~.

\'(/oodsmuh

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