Replacement of the bass and volume controls of the Klipsch ProMedia

Ultra 2.0 speakers

Overview:
Both the bass and volume controls use a linear taper, 50K resistance potentiometer. The bass control is
single-gang, the volume control is double-gang + rotary switch. This document describes replacement of
both potentionmeters with new potentiometers and a seperate toggle switch that takes the position of the
power LED on the faceplate. To accommodate the new components the faceplate is modified.

Components used:
- Jaycar RP8516 (bass pot – 9mm single-gang linear 50K pot)
- Jaycar RP8710 (volume pot – 9mm double-gang linear 50K pot)
- Jaycar HK7734 (bass and volume knobs)
- NKK G12JPF (illuminated toggle switch)

Tools/other used:
- Screwdriver (say 6mm Phillips and 2mm flat, or thereabouts)
- Soldering iron, solder, wire (thin as possible)
- Hot glue gun
- Drill, drill bits 2.5-12mm, spade bit 10mm
- Spanner/wrench 10mm
- Light sandpaper

Initial disassembly:

1. Turn the speakers off, remove them from mains power, unplug all cables from the main speaker.

2. Remove it's dust cover.

3. Remove the ten screws that secure the faceplate.

4. Remove the faceplate.

Note: The faceplate is leashed to the main body by wiring. It is best to lay the unit on it's side from here on.

5. Remove the three pieces of packing material.

6. Remove the glue from the power LED and free it from the faceplate.

7. Remove the glue that anchors the speaker wiring to body.

8. Remove the glue from the body where it secures the main PCB.

9. Remove the tape from the body where is secures the main PCB.

10. Remove the two screws that secure the rear-mounted PCB.

11. Slide the main PCB out from the body.

Note: Use a pen or similar object to push the main PCB out from behind.
Potentiometer removal:

1. Remove the knobs from the bass and volume potentiometers.

2. Peel back the adhesive pads from the PCB, exposing the solder points of the potentiometers and their
bracing.
3. Unscrew the nuts and remove the washers from the bass and volume potentiometers.

Note: Steps 3,4 apply to the bass potentiometer.

3. Apply the soldering iron to the two brace solders and use leverage to free it from the PCB.

Note: Either of the following...

4.a) Apply the soldering iron to the three potentiometer solders and gently pull the potentiometer and
bracing from the PCB.

4.b) Flex the potentiometer back and forth to weaken/break the pins then use the soldering iron to remove
what remains.

Note: Steps 5-7 apply to the volume potentiometer.

5. Apply the soldering iron to the two brace solders and use leverage to free it from the PCB.

6. There are several small clasps that hold the body of the potentiometer together. Using the flathead
screwdriver, pry them back.
7. Gradually disassemble the potentiometer. Remove what you can by hand, then use either method 4.a or
4.b for the rest, section by section.

New potentiometers:

Reference: Switch contacts in blue, pots as red/green/purple, bracing mounts as yellow.

Note: Because these potentiometers will be mounted contacts away from the board, you will need to swap the red/purple
sides to maintain a clockwise action.

1. Solder new wiring to main PCB board.

Note: Unlike these pictures, make sure the wiring is kept as low and backward as possible to allow space for the new
potentiometers.

Note: Make sure that the wire doesn't poke through the opposite side of the PCB, otherwise it will be difficult to
reassemble the unit.

2. Surround solders with hot melt glue.

3. Solder wiring to potentiometers.

4. Attach potentiometers to frames.

Note: In this case I added some hot melt glue between the frames and potentiometers to prevent slipping.

5. Solder frames to main PCB.

New switch:

1. Sever the LED wiring. You could new wire for length, but if you cut close to the LED it shouldn't be
necessary.

2. Connect the two leads from the LED and the two leads from the old pot switch as per the switch wiring
schematic.
Faceplate modification:

Information: the following picture shows the original faceplate holes in solid, and the new, larger holes in dash. The
original knobs have a diameter of ~9mm, these new parts ~12mm. The 2.5mm LED is replaced with a 4mm diameter-
bushed toggle switch. Since the LED hole is so close to the jacks, it is drilled with matching tops rather than matching
centres, so there is enough space for the toggle switch.

1. Cover the speakers to prevent plastic from entering them.

2. Start with the bass and volume holes. Find the drill bit the size of the holes, then use the next larger bit to
enlarge them. Gradually step up the bit size until the holes are large enough to accommodate the new knobs.
The bits will generally self-centre, and the plastic is thin enough to hand drill.

3. To prepare the old LED hole for the switch, use an electric drill and a bit the size of the hole to widen the
hole downwards. The idea is to enlarge the hole away from the two above it, to allow enough space for the
new switch.

4. Unlike the bass and volume holes, the LED hole is surrounded by thicker plastic. To get the switch as close
to flush at the front as possible, countersink the hole using a spade bit. In the above picture a regular large
drill bit was used to start.

5. Lightly sand the outside edges of the new holes as necessary.

6. Secure the switch the the faceplate by applying hot glue around the bushing then position the switch on
the faceplate and hold it there until the glue cools.

Finished product – before and after