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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LVIV
October - December 2009

Lychakivske
cemetery
A History in Stone

Political framework
Everything you never
wanted to know about
Ukrainian politics

In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.


The New York Times

2
www.inyourpocket.com

9 772076 230506

CoNteNts
What to see

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Essential Lviv
Churches & Cathedrals
Museums

26
27
29

Lychakivske cemetery

29

A History in Stone

Contents
The Basics

Getting around
5

Arriving, Money and more

Political framework

8
Everything you never wanted to know about
Ukrainian politics

Culture & Events

10

Galleries, cinemas, culture centres

Where to stay

11

A fine selection of places to spent the night

Dining & Nightlife


Cafs
Nightlife
Bars, pubs and clubs

lviv.inyourpocket.com

14
19
21

Mail & Phones


Planes, trains & car rental

32
33

Business directory

35

Banks, Lawyers, Foreign representatives

Shopping

36

Where to go shopping in Lviv

Lifestyle directory

37

Lifestyle, Health & Sports

Maps & Index


Street register
Old town map
City map
Country map
Index

38
39
40
42
43

October - December 2009

arriViNg

foreWorD
Welcome to a city of unique old-world charm; the
scene of an accident where East broadsided West,
but left only a dent. With its remarkably preserved
Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and
hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian city with a
European soul.
Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture,
the city boasts many of the countrys brightest and
best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also
Ukraines Mecca - there are magnificent and inspiring
churches and cathedrals on just about every corner.
Although Lvivians have the reputation as churchgoers, they havent forgotten how to party. Pubs,
clubs, restaurants and coffee houses are plentiful,
and its usually a local whos stoking the celebration
into the early morning hours.
Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history.
Founded by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his
son Lev in 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire,
Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. The dubious
HitlerStalin Pact of 1939 granted control of Lviv to
the Soviet Union. This occupation spurred numerous
resistance movements in the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated and controversial Ukrainian
Insurgent Army. With the fall of the Soviet Union in
1991, freedom was finally seized. Lviv continues to
be a shining example of independence, and Ukraine
owes much of its contemporary identity to the stream
of patriotism which emanates from this radical
western gem.
On April 17, 2007, Ukraine and Poland were chosen to
co-host the Euro 2012 football competition. As one of
Ukraines host cities, Lviv anxiously awaits the fanatical joyous surge expected to fill the city. However,
due to bureaucratic hurdles planners have made only
trivial progress on the necessary new stadium, road
reconstruction and airport expansion. It may take a
miracle to save the citys chances to host. In Your
Pocket will continue to monitor the situation.
We are proud to offer this mini-guide designed to
highlight the very best Lviv has to offer.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Publisher
Neolitas-KIS Ltd.
Nyzhnioyurkivska 3, Suite 25
Kyiv 04080, Ukraine
tel./fax +380 44 467 78 20
kyiv@inyourpocket.com
Registration No. KB 14928-3900P
Neolitas-KIS
Company Office & Accounts
Denys Rynsky
Drahomanova 6
Lviv 79005, Ukraine
tel.: 0 32 243 11 88/0 67 341 70 34
Printed by Express-Polygraph, Kyiv
Published 4 times per year

Lviv In Your Pocket

Europe In Your Pocket

By bus
All international buses arrive at Stryiskyi Avtovokzal; however,
some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, may
make a first stop in centre not far from Shevchenka prosp.
Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket offices
and schedules are located on the ground floor. Upstairs youll
find a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To find the
left-luggage office, head downstairs from the central hall.
Getting to town Stryiskyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far
from the city centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option;
depending on your haggling skills, fares are available for as
little as 40Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus No.
5 to Shota Rustaveli Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1Hr.
Though it may be cramped, marshrutkas No. 7, 37, 57 and 71
shuttle passengers to centre for 1.50Hr. Bus No. 18 connects
Stryiskyi Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Train Station.

By car

Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special


In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with
the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy
Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement
in our next Russian guides and online at russia.
inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now
get your hands Sarajevo In Your Pocket when
visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team
- who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and
Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy,
and to Venice.
We welcome enquiries from anyone who would
like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either
by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send
us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial
Editor Brigham Marriott
Researcher Natasha Martisova
Layout & Design KIS Ltd.
Photos Lviv In Your Pocket
Cover photo: Natasha Martisova
Sales & Circulation
General Manager
Alla Zhylina, alla@kis.kiev.ua
Kyiv Managers
Ludmila Mednikova, mila@kis.kiev.ua;
Yuriy Ivaschenko, ra@kis.kiev.ua
Lviv Representative
Yuriy Sokyrko, lviv@inyourpocket.com
Odesa Representative
Iryna Baklanova, odesa@inyourpocket.com
Maps
DNVP Kartographia, 2009

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS
2003-2009. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to


sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the
car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are
allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This
document should be carried along with your drivers license
and your cars registration papers at all times. Automobile
insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy
green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to
avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than
the former, however if you dont speak Ukrainian or Russian it
is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something
which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two
weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.

By plane
When travellers refer to the Lviv International Airport its usually in the context of either a twisted joke or terrifying tale. We
found a sleepy port lacking in up-to-snuff conveniences, but
staffed by friendly Lvivians. The signature massive potholes
that once dotted the runway have been repaired, and as the
city gears up to host Euro 2012 the airport will surely transform into something more familiar and welcoming.
Laid out in sectors 1-4, getting around the airport is quite
easy. Sectors 1 and 2 are located in the main terminal and
handle international arrivals and departures. Youll also find
the main tourist information booth, an information desk,
customs, a VIP hall, telephones, lost and found, car rental
booths, first aid, 24 hour police services, waiting rooms, news
stands and a bank. The information booth was closed on
our visit, but the information desk located through the door
beneath the flight departure schedule was open and staffed
by a knowledgeable and friendly English speaking local. Most
domestic flights arrive at sectors 3 and 4 located in the
smaller terminal. As you exit the bus and enter the terminal,
wait for the luggage cart to pull up alongside and retrieve your
bags. If you happen to miss out on the cart, proceed to the
baggage room inside located adjacent the Sixt car rental. A
caf and airline ticketing and information booths can also
be found in this terminal.
The toilet is definitely the airports most elusive feature (if
we had room in this guide wed draw you a map). Its actually located across the parking lot from the main terminal.
Look for the little white brick building with a red roof next to
the Satellite Caf. The attendant will ask if you need paper,
just nod your head yes and save it for later if you dont need
it right away.
Getting to town Follow the heard of fellow travellers through
the terminal corridors to the waiting gauntlet of cabbies.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Lviv Train Station


The 70 Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for Ukraine, but
the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1 Hr) or marshrutka 95
(1.5 Hr). Its about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 by trolleybus/
marshrutka on one of Ukraines bumpiest roads.

By train
With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down
trains and suspicious glances, arriving to Lvivs central
rail station can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy
movie. Once the nostalgia has worn off, exit the platforms
by proceeding down the stairs then follow the exit signs to
the stations halls.
A currency exchange ( ), ticketing booths ()
and schedules are located in the main hall. There is also a
floor plan displayed of available services if you happen to
get disoriented. Purchase international tickets from booth
No. 2. (Quiet please, the street dogs huddled in the corner
are trying to sleep.)
A restaurant (open 11:00-23:00), Express Bank with Western
Union, telephones and resting hall () No. 1 are located in
the left wing. Admission to hall No. 1 is 3Hr per hour and the
Internet can be accessed for 6Hr. A caf and ATM are also
on site. Additional ATMs, a kiosk selling snacks and beverages and a bar are located in the corridor connecting the
left wing to the main hall.
The bulk of stations services are located in the right wing.
Entering from the main hall youll find a barber shop, an
agency offering excursion services and resting hall No. 2.
This hall has two cafs, newspaper stands and a pharmacy.
Entrance is free of charge.
Proceed through the corridor past hall No. 2 for a currency
exchange and a news stand that sells maps of Lviv. There
are three left luggage ( ) areas/lockers
available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the only
post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the size of
your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police services
are also located in the right wing.
Toilets are scattered throughout the building. The easiest to
find are located in the corridors leading to the platforms.
Getting to town Getting from the station to centre is relatively easy. Taxis are abundant near the main exit. A gauntlet
of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. A trip to centre
should cost around 30Hr and Lvivs cabbies are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other major Ukrainian
cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies is bustling with
busses and mini-busses, most of which connect to outlaying
cities, towns and villages. Your best public transport option
is tram No. 1, which heads directly to centre. The same tram
with a different name, No. 9, takes passengers in the opposite direction from centre to the train station.

October - December 2009

BasiCs

BasiCs
Lviv, Lvov, Lww

Basic data
Lviv
Population: 725 200
Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 88.1%, Russian 8.9%,
Polish 0.9%, Belarusian 0.4%, Jewish 0.3%, Armenian
0.1%, other 1.3%.

Ukraine
Population: 46 143 700 (January 2009)
Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%,
Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%,
Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish
0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%
Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe,
slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile
steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains
are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south.
Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov
Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km,
Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west)
362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km
Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug,
Danube
Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m
Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time
zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries
Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in
Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw,
10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.

Ukraine on Google Map


Its finally happened! Ukraine
is available on Google Map.
Currently all oblast capitals
are detailed with street names
and house numbers. In Your
Pocket has begun the daunting
yet exciting task of creating
links between Google Map and
the establishments listed in
our guides. Visit our web site
(www.inyourpocket.com/country/ukraine.html) and play
around with this handy addition. If only we could get city
authorities to include Roman alphabet transcriptions on
street signs, then there would be absolutely no confusion. Whats that you say? They promised to do this
before the Euro 2012 football competition. Well keep

Climate
100

20

75

10

50

25

-10
-20

Rainfall, mm

Temperature, C

30

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Lviv In Your Pocket

Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names. The


city was known as Lww when the Poles ruled, the AustroHungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish residents
referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many languages have
their own spelling and pronunciation. This is the case with
Lviv (Ukrainian) and Lvov (Russian). As the city immerged to
become the centre of Ukrainian language and culture in the
1990s, the Ukrainian version became increasingly common
and useful, i.e. using Lviv while searching the Internet will
definitely result in more hits.

All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine,


must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must
be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not
be renewed if lost.

Disabled travellers
Lviv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High
curb drops and steep steps are the rule and public transport
system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair
symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in
question specifically caters to disabled guests.

Electricity

Alcohol
Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to
boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign
brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka,
which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if
offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon
can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall
odds are against you and your stomach. Whether its Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some
point. A modest cheers (budmo) will do for a foreigner.

Borders
Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland,
Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour
at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because
Ukrainian wheels dont fit European tracks and thus have to
be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American
travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and
cant be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their
embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).

Customs
If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of
customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two
litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of
tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs
duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask
you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid
bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague
of ours was told by a customs officer to declare her wedding
band. She declared the value of the ring, and - to make a long
story short - she ended up paying a $200 bribe in order to
avoid an outrageous duty.)
A person can bring in food products free of customs duties
and taxes if their total value does not exceed 50. However,
food products should not total more than two kilograms,
and there should not be more than one package of the
same product.
Goods with a total value of less than 200 may be brought in
free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods
is greater than 200, but less than 1000 they will need to
be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the
value of the goods is greater than 1000, the goods will be
subject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration requirements for imported cargo.
Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any
international alert and you have documents which prove your
right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will
need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the
State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values
Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (Smolskoho 10,
tel. 0 322 75 80 81/72 79 91.)

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two
round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner
Russian sockets are being replaced by their European
cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap
adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more
foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Lviv, so
bring your own.

Floors
Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first
floor and so one.

Money
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced
the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Dont
be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You havent
been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the
USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past!
Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100,
200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia
bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100
kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and
1Hr coins. Youll have no problem finding currency exchange
points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If its
travellers checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around
Lviv and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and
MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There
have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale
restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before
charging it.

Roads
Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy the
Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are 60
km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads and 130 on highways.
A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine.

Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you
the target of crime. Lviv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in
most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble.
Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds,
so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or
loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted
attention, especially from the police. By the way, its a good
idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport
and visa with them at all times.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Language
The countrys official language is Ukrainian. Since independence in 1991, it has become much more popular and
widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and
Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian
truly predominant.
The following is a list of some of the most common words
and phrases a person is likely to need.
Hello
Goodbye
Please
Youre welcome
Thank you
Excuse me
Yes
No
Enjoy your meal
Cheers!
I dont understand
I dont know
Help!
Hospital
Ambulance
Where is?

(vi-TA-yu)
(do po-BA-chennia)

(bud LAS-ka)

(PRO-shu)

(DIA-kuyu)

(VY-bachte)

(tak)

(ni)

(Smach-NO-ho)

(BUD-mo)
(Ya ne rozu-MI-yu)

(Ya ne ZNA-yu)

(dopomo-ZHIT)

(li-KAR-nia)

(shvyd-KA)
...?
(de zna-KHO-dytsia)
Right, left
,
(PRA-vo, LI-vo)
Do you speak English? ?
(Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-skoyu)
Days of the week
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Numbers
1
2
3
4
5
6

(o-DYN)
(dva)
(try)
(cho-TY-ry)
(pyat)
(shist)

7
8
9
10
100
1000

(pone-DI-lok)
(viv-TO-rok)
(sere-DA)
(chet-VER)
(PYAT-nytsia)
(su-BO-ta)
(ne-DI-lia)

(sim)
(VI-sim)
(DE-vyat)
(DE-syat)
(sto)
(TY-sya-cha)

Market values
How do costs compare to back home?
list of local prices to give you an idea.
McDonalds Big Mac
15.00Hr
Loaf of white bread
2.80Hr
Snickers bar
4.00Hr
Litre of vodka
25.00Hr
Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 4.00Hr
20 Marlboros
8.00Hr
Public transport ticket
1.50Hr
Dry-cleaning and
25.00Hr
pressing one mens shirt
1 litre of petrol (euro 3)
7.80Hr

Heres a handy
1.30
0.24
0.34
2.12
0.34
0.68
0.13
2.12

$1.87
$0.35
$0.50
$3.12
$0.50
$1.00
$0.19
$3.12

0.66 $0.97

Official exchange rates (as of September 27):


1 11.82Hr
US$1 8.01Hr

October - December 2009

BasiCs

BasiCs

Political framework
To understand Ukrainian politics, imagine a carnival
complete with clowns, freaks and a main attraction where
magicians make billions of hryvnia disappear from taxpayers pockets. That said, lets get down to the nitty-gritty.
Ukraine is a republic consisting of 24 provinces (oblast)
and the Autonomous Republic of Crimea. Also, the cities
of Kyiv and Sevastopol have special status. The Central
government consists of executive, legislative and judicial
branches.

Executive branch

The president is elected by popular vote for a five-year


term and is eligible for a second term. Viktor Yuschenko,
co-leader of the 2004 Orange Revolution, is the current
president. The president is responsible for issuing decrees
and orders, and preventing any actions of the legislative,
executive and judicial branches of power that directly or
indirectly infringe [upon his interpretation of] the fundamental Law of Ukraine. In other words, the president ensures
that nothing is ever accomplished - a duty Yuschenko has
excelled at throughout his presidency.
A new circus is coming! Presidential elections are scheduled for January 17, 2010. As it stands, the main candidates
will be Viktor Yanukovych, Yuliya Tymoshenko, incumbent
Viktor Yuschenko, Volodymyr Lytvyn and dark horse candidate Arseniy Yatseniuk (hes the nerdy-looking guy on the
striped billboard ads).

Legislative branch

The unicameral supreme council, known as Verkhovna


Rada, consists of 450 deputies and is presided over by a
speaker. Elections were last held in 2007, and five parties
passed the required vote threshold of 3%. The current make
up of this bitterly feuding, fund sucking, time wasting branch
is as follows: The Party of Regions (175 seats), led by Viktor
Yanukovych, is extremely popular in Ukraines industrial,
Russian-speaking, eastern oblasts; Yuliya Tymoshenko
Bloc (156 seats) is led by the current Prime Minister, whose
popular slogan is Theyre betraying/talking/ blocking. Shes
working.; Our Ukraine/Peoples Self Defence (72 seats), led
by President Viktor Yuschenko, has been losing support
steadily since 2004, but maintains a base among voters
in the west; the Communist Party of Ukraine (27 seats)
continues to be popular with pensioners and disillusioned
citizens; Lytvyn bloc (20 seats) is led by current speaker
Volodymyr Lytvyn, a man with gorgeous silver hair.

Judicial branch

The legal system, based on civil law with judicial review of


legislative acts, is topped by the Supreme Court and the
Constitutional Court. We thought of adding a joke here,
but realized that everything that happens in these halls of
justice is far too disturbing to laugh at.

National holidays 2009


January 1
January 7
March 8
April 19
April 20
May 1-2
May 9
June 15
June 28
August 24

Lviv In Your Pocket

New Year
Orthodox Christmas
Womens Day
Easter Sunday
Easter Monday
A day off for the workers
Victory Day
Trinity
Constitution Day
Independence Day

Smoking
Youre never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and
in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just
doesnt seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap
selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city.
Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places
and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is
the responsibility of each company to provide a designated
area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special
places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the
business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every
business has begun to enforce it.

Toilets
Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic
subject in Lviv. Make it a rule to go before you leave the
hotel and after each caf/restaurant you visit and you
should be fine; pay toilets are in short supply in centre. If
you think you can just pop in to McDonalds and take care
of business, think again. You must first place an order then
open the bathroom door by punching in the code located
on the receipt. Good luck.

or = ladies

or or = gentlemen

Tipping
Lviv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule
exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their
bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner!
Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent,
so read the fine print or ask.

Visas
Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra,
Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Mongolia, the
U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth
of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can
enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone
else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian
embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can
be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying
depending on the type and length of visa requested. Many
Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days
of the week, so call ahead.
Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the
exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must
obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration
card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to
register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid
in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional
information, call (+380 322) 75 24 63.
Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU,
Andorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can
apply for 30-day single and multiple entry business and
private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an
invitation, or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state travel vouchers. All visitors are required
to purchase national medical insurance, and must register
their passports with local police within three days of their
arrival (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process).
Transit visas are also required. For more information, call
(+380 322) 37 52 03.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the


EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S.
can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all
other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate
or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form
and photos. All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days
need an invitation and visa. For more information, call (+380
44) 280 77 21.
Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S.,
Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American
countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90
days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa
at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call
(+380 44) 234 00 40.
Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European
Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel,
Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may
enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are allowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must
apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For
more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380
322) 97 08 61, Hungarian (+380 322) 64 58 22, Slovakian
(+380 44) 234 06 06.
For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone
numbers see Foreign Representations. In many cases, the
consular section is responsible for issuing visas and is located
apart from the embassy - save yourself time and confusion
by calling before you go.

Working in Ukraine
For most of the past decade, many foreigners took advantage
of Ukraines relaxed regulations and didnt bother getting
work permits or even visas. Times have definitely changed,
and stricter requirements and regulations have forced many
of us to play by the rules. Many companies continue to pay
in cash under the table, but will offer assistance obtaining
extended visas. If youre planning to work in Ukraine for
a long or indefinite period, it may be beneficial to obtain
either permanent or temporary residency. For permanent
residency you must be sponsored by a relative with Ukrainian
citizenship or prove Ukrainian heritage - this can be done by
providing the Office of Passport Registration and Immigration
(VVIR) with the birth certificate of a parent or grandparent
born in Ukraine and documents proving relation, i.e. your
birth certificate, parents birth certificate, marriage licence
showing change of name, etc. Though often complicated
and time consuming, local and multinational companies
can procure temporary residency for foreign personnel. No
matter what category you fall into, plan on big hassles and
a lot of time spent at VVIR, the Housing Bureau (ZhEK) and
the police station.

Street smarts
Street
Square
Avenue
Boulevard
Bridge
Embankment
Highway
Lane
Descent

(vul.)
(pl.)
(prosp.)
(bulv.)

(nab.)
(shose)
(prov.)
(uzviz)

lviv.inyourpocket.com

(VU-lytsia)
(PLO-scha)
(pro-SPEKT)
(bul-VAR)
(mist)
(NA-berezhna)
(sho-SE)
(pro-VU-lok)
(uz-VIZ)

In Your Pocket Online

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response has been incredible, nowhere more so
than in Riga, where the famous rip-off joint Lord
Pub has garnered so many comments from angry
readers that at one stage earlier this year our
system couldnt cope: we had to reconfigure it to
accommodate all the feedback. All of our venues
- and most of our features - are now open forums
ready for your comments. If you have something
to say on Warsaws raunchiest nightlife venues,
say it at inyourpocket.com. If you want to flaunt
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board what our readers are telling us. While we vet
all comments before publication, if you provide a
valid email address we usually approve the vast
majority, no matter how vitriolic or controversial.
So if youve been ripped off, or simply enjoyed
terrific service, let everyone know. If you want to
contact us direct, you can do so at readersmail@
inyourpocket.com.
October - December 2009

10

CUltUre

Where to staY

Art galleries

Culture centres

Art-11 C-3, pl. Rynok 37, tel. 0 32 274 03 67. QOpen

British Council H-3, Universytetska 1, Lviv National


University, tel. 0322 39 45 52. Q Open , Mon, Thu

12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free.

Dzyga C-3, Virmenska 35, tel. 0 32 297 56 12. QOpen

14:30 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 15:00, Wed 16:00 - 19:00.


Closed Sat, Sun.

Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform C-3, pl. Rynok


40, tel. 0 32 297 51 93. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00

Goethe-Institute H-3, Universytetska 1, Lviv National

10:00 - 22:00. Admission is free.

- 16:00. Admission is free.

University, tel. 0 322 39 47 67.

Gerdan C-4, Ruska 4, tel. 0 32 235 70 46. QOpen

Lviv State Palace I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 2, tel. 0 32


275 32 47. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00.

Chaos C-4, Ruska 12, tel. 0 67 670 03 87. QOpen

Theatres

Lviv Art Gallery A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. 0 32 272 39


48/261 41 60. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admis-

Akademika Hnatiuka 11, tel. 0 32 272 68 41/272 68


55. QOpen . Closed Sat. Tickets 3-8Hr.

12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free.

11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission is free.

sion 5Hr, children 2Hr. Friday is free for students.

Lviv Palace of Arts A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. 0 32 272 89


33. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free.
Pory roku C-3, Virmenska 23, tel. 0 32 235 44 65.
QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free.

Cinemas
Kinopalace B-3, Teatralna 22, tel. 0 32 297 50 50/297
50 05. Q Tickets 10-24Hr.
Kinopalace Kopernyk B-5, Kopernyka 9, tel. 0 32 297
51 77. Q Tickets 10-24Hr.
Kyiv C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 8, tel. 0 32 272 67 73.
QTickets 10Hr.

First Ukrainian Theatre for Children and Youth A-4,


Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre A-3, Lesia Kurbasa
3, tel. 0 32 272 49 14/272 48 24. Q Tickets 20-30Hr.
Lviv Regional Doll Theatre C-2, Danyla Halytskoho
pl. 1, tel. 0 32 235 58 32. Q Tickets 5Hr.
Maria Zankovetska National Academic Ukrainian
Drama Theatre B-2, Lesi Ukrainky 1, tel. 0 32 272 05
83/272 07 51, www.zankovetska.com.ua. QOpen .
Closed Mon. Ticket price starts at 7Hr.

Solomea Kruszelnicka Opera and Ballet Theatre A-3,


Svobody prosp. 28, tel. 0 32 242 17 90/242 11 63, www.
opera.lviv.ua. QClosed Mon, Tue. Tickets 25-125Hr.

Voskresinnya Theatre H-2, Henerala Hryhorenka pl.


5, tel. 274 13 00. QOpen . Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu.
Tickets 10-30Hr.

The boom is on for Lvivs hotel industry! Throughout its


history, the citys stunning architecture, rich history and
exciting dining and entertainment options have drawn
travellers in hordes. However, there will soon be a new
reason to visit. In 2007, Lviv was chosen as a venue
for the Euro 2012 football competition, and the city
must gear-up quickly if it hopes to meet demand. New
establishments will serve to compliment existing hotels
and hostels, which offer a full range of comfort, style
and service. Tired of hotels? A number of agencies offer
renovated flats that can be rented on a nightly basis,
and are considerably cheaper than many hotel rooms.
The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in
general are definite plusses.

fax 0 32 295 90 00, reservation@citadel-inn.com.ua,


www.citadel-inn.com.ua. Located near centre, Citadel is
actually a 19th Century fortress. Encased in such a unique
old-world atmosphere, its easy to shrug off contemporary
problems and just relax. Staff is very courteous and adept
at serving foreign clients. Twenty-six elegant, ultra-comfortable rooms are available and come standard with air
conditioning, cable TV, safe, mini-bar, bathrobes, slippers,
hair-dryer, telephone and Internet access. The romantic
Garmata Restaurant serves succulent European and Ukrainian cuisine. Guests are also welcome to enjoy the sauna,
gym and conference and banquet rooms. Q26 rooms (24
standards 990 - 1200Hr, 2 suites 2500Hr, extra bed 200Hr).
POHARUFLGKDW hhhh

Grand Hotel B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. 0 322 72 40

42, fax 0 322 76 90 60, reservation@ghgroup.com.ua,


www.ghgroup.com.ua. Grand is extremely adept at meeting the needs of western travellers. Located on Lvivs main
thoroughfare, the hotel was completely renovated in the late
90s and has an elegant appeal. Rooms come with classic
interiors, modern amenities and views of either the quiet
courtyard or of bustling Svobody prosp. The breakfast buffet
served in Grands renowned restaurant is included in the room
charge, as is a membership to an upscale fitness centre that
features a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, massage service,
solarium, aerobics hall and gym. Disco Bar Platinum and Grand
Club Casino offer intriguing entertainment opportunities. The
professional staff is fluent in English making for a no-hassle
experience. Q61 rooms (9 singles 85, 43 doubles 105,
junior suites 120, 9 suites 150, apartment 250, extra
bed 30). PHARFLGKDW hhhh
32 295 95 99, reservations@leopolishotel.com, www.
leopolishotel.com. Located in a newly renovated 18th Century structure just steps from historic Rynok pl., Leopolis is a
nose ahead when it comes to class. The attention to detail
here is impressive. All rooms are unique, stylishly designed
and come with classy touches such as heated tile floors, antiallergenic features, stereo systems that weave throughout
the rooms (there are even speakers in the shower), highspeed wireless Internet, soundproof triple-pane windows,
etc., etc. A complimentary buffet breakfast is served in one
of the two elegant restaurants and the bar nestled in the
cellar is a popular after work hang-out for business travellers.
The hotel is currently expanding into the adjacent building.
Scheduled for completion in 2010, this new wing will bring
the room total to 90 and will include a spa centre and three
conference rooms. Q43 rooms (20 superiors 170, 19 junior
suites 190, 3 suites 340, 1 apartment 440, extra bed
30). PHR6ULGKW hhhhh

lviv.inyourpocket.com

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi internet access

Cream of the crop


Citadel Inn H-4, Hrabovskoho 11, tel. 0 32 295 77 77,

Leopolis B-3, Teatralna 16, tel. 0 32 295 95 00, fax 0

Lviv In Your Pocket

Symbol key

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Opera A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. 0 32 225 90 00, fax

0 32 225 90 01, reception@hotel-opera.lviv.ua, www.


hotel-opera.lviv.ua. Opera is perfect for both business trips
and romantic getaways. Located at the start of Svobody
prosp., the 47 newly remodelled rooms come equipped with
air-conditioning, telephone, filtered tap water, refrigerator
with mini-bar and satellite TV. Many rooms have spectacular
views of the Opera House and the ancient cityscape that
lies beyond. The restaurant on the ground floor serves a
complimentary breakfast, and for lunch and dinner head to
the exclusive Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor. The
exquisite menu and popular summer terrace make this one of
the most intriguing and definitely the most romantic venues
in the city. Excellent conference facilities are available. Q47
rooms (8 singles 700 - 800Hr, 29 doubles 950 - 1050Hr, 5
junior suites 1250Hr, 5 suites 1990Hr, extra bed 300Hr).
PHAR6ULKW hhhh

Upmarket
Dnister G-3, Mateika 6, tel. 0 32 297 43 17/0 32 297

43 05, fax 0 32 297 10 21, bron@dnister.lviv.ua, www.


dnister.lviv.ua. Set half way up St. George hill overlooking
picturesque Ivan Franko Park, Dnister offers the absolute best
views of Lviv. With 150 rooms it is also one of the largest hotels
in the city. Value for hryvnia doesnt actually kick in room-wise
until superior and lux (definitely worth splurging for); standard
rooms are reminiscent of what can be found in a stateside
motel. Built in 1983, the hotel was completely remodelled in
1999 and has since garnered the reputation as one of Lvivs
premier business and conference centres. Seven conference
halls are available with the largest accommodating up to 200
participants. They also offer group discounts: the larger the
group the bigger the discount. Staff is courteous, professional
and English speaking. Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel.
The restaurant is elegantly arranged and offers scrumptious
European cuisine. The hotels gem is the Panorama Bar located
on the ninth floor. From the bars telescope its possible to get a
close up peep of Old Town or eaves drop on hikers mulling about
Vysokyi Zamok Mount. Q118 rooms (15 economy 500Hr, 50
standards 600Hr, 20 superiors 850Hr, 26 businesses 950Hr,
7 suites 1500Hr). hhhh

Door smarts
A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing
moments in front of a foreign door.
Pull

Push

Open

Closed

October - December 2009

11

12

Where to staY
Eney K-4, Shymzeriv 2, tel./fax 0 322 76 87 99, eney@

mail.lviv.ua, www.eney.lviv.ua. This quaint hotel is located


in a tranquil niche next to a botanical garden a short cab
ride from centre. Rooms are decked with stylishly modern
dcor and come standard with air conditioning, satellite TV,
Internet, bathrobe, toiletries, safe and mini-bar. Relaxation
and entertainment options include a dry sauna, billiards and
a small outdoor pool (open throughout the summer months).
Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served at the
hotels restaurant, which features Ukrainian, European and
Japanese cuisine. Reception staff is extremely professional,
courteous and multi-lingual. Q15 rooms (5 singles 580
- 780Hr, 5 doubles 780 - 980Hr, 2 triples 1180Hr, 2 suites
1280Hr, 1 apartment 1680Hr). PHARLGKXCW
hhh

Eurohotel J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, tel. 0 32 242 40

02, fax 0 32 275 72 24, info@eurohotel.lviv.ua, www.


eurohotel.lviv.ua. Located a brisk 15 minute walk from
centre, Euro Hotel has an elegantly remodelled interior and
rooms. A safe, mini bar, Internet access, satellite TV and
air conditioning come standard in the rooms. The hotel also
features a modern business centre, a conference hall that
accommodates up to 50 and interpreting services. Various
package deals are also available and come with extras
such as guided city tours and airport transfer. Reception
speaks fluent English and is adept at meeting the needs
of foreign tourists. Located in the lobby, the restaurant
is currently metamorphosing from a gaudy sushi joint to
a more appropriate European restaurant. Q 92 rooms
(6 singles 450Hr, 30 standards 550Hr, 46 superiors 650Hr, 5
junior suites 850Hr, 4 suites 1250Hr, 2 apartments 1650Hr).
POHARLGKW hhhh

Swiss Hotel C-5, Kniazia Romana 20, tel./fax 0 32

240 37 77, info@swiss-hotel.lviv.ua, www.swiss-hotel.


lviv.ua. Swiss offers 18 suites, each of which is uniquely
decorated. All rooms come equipped with satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe, hair dryer and slippers.
Breakfast is served in the Italian restaurant and is included
in the price. Other services include room service, city tours
in a variety of languages, a childrens room (free for hotel
guests), nanny services for small children and a conference
hall with multimedia equipment. Q18 rooms (singles 600
- 750Hr, doubles 800 - 850Hr, junior suites 1200Hr, suites
1600Hr, apartment 2520Hr). PHARLGKDCW
hhhh

Vintage Boutique Hotel C-4, Staroyevreiska 25/27,

tel. 0 32 235 68 34, fax 0 32 235 70 24, info@vintagehotel.com.ua, www.vintagehotel.com.ua. Vintage


is located on one of old towns most alluring streets. The
recently remodelled rooms are elegant and come standard
with satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe,
Wi-Fi and slippers. The lux room is stunning and the twins
and doubles are comfortable; however, the singles tend
to be a bit claustrophobic. Many rooms offer fascinating
contrasting views of the surrounding ancient architecture. A small business centre is at your service, and the
complimentar y buffet breakfast is served in the caf.
Q12 rooms (3 singles 550Hr, 6 doubles 750Hr, 3 suites
1300Hr). PARLK

Zamok Leva G-5, Glinky 7, tel. 0 32 297 15 63, fax 0 32

237 82 51, info@lioncastle.lviv.ua, www.lioncastlehotel.


com/en. Located in one of Lvivs most elite neighbourhoods,
Zamok Leva offers guests serenity and comfort. The castle,
constructed in 1898, was the brainchild of architect Arthur
Schlein. Fourteen rooms of varying comfort and elegance
are available and come equipped with refrigerator, cable TV,
DVD-player (upon request), Internet access and telephone.

Lviv In Your Pocket

Where to staY
Other services include covered parking, laundry, baggage
storage, and complimentary newspapers and magazines.
The restaurant offers an original mix of Austrian and European
cuisine. Aside from the main dining hall, the VIP room can
accommodate up to eight, the terrace is a romantic hotspot
and the summer courtyard is set next to a tranquil park.
The hotels conference hall seats up to 30. Q14 rooms
(1 standard 650 - 700Hr, 4 standards superior 500 - 550Hr, 4
business standards 700 - 750Hr, 3 junior suites 800 - 850Hr,
1 suite 1200 - 1250Hr, 1 standard in basement 300 - 350Hr).
HR6FLGKDCW

Mid-range
Natalia 18 B-2, Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 7,
tel./fax 0 32 242 20 68, natalia18@svitonline.com,
www.natalia18.ho.com.ua. The quiet ambiance of this
quaint hotel is a distinct contrast to the bustle of the lively little
square that lies beyond the threshold. With only 22 rooms,
its easy to feel at home and the friendly English speaking
staff knows how to accommodate. The tastefully remodelled
rooms are equipped with air-conditioning, satellite TV, mini-bar
and telephone. Natalias restaurant is set in a comfy basement and features reasonably priced Ukrainian and European
cuisine. The salmon in a honey sauce is a local favourite.
Q22 rooms (3 singles 400Hr, 15 doubles 580 - 630Hr,
4 suites 800Hr). POHARLGK hhh

Prestige F-2, Yaroslava Mudroho 33, tel. 0 32 244 41

78, fax 0 32 244 41 79, www.pristige-hotel.lviv.ua/index_en.html. Dont let the name frighten your pocketbook,
Prestige is actually good value for hryvnia. Located a short
cab ride from centre, rooms were recently remodelled and are
elegantly furnished. With only nine rooms and one apartment,
this hotel is regularly booked; advanced reservation is the
way to go. Breakfast is served in the caf on the ground floor
and starts at 65Hr. Amenities include satellite TV, air conditioning, safe, mini bar, laundry service, 24 hour room service
and guarded parking. Q10 rooms ( standards 380Hr, junior
suites 480Hr, suites 980Hr). PAR hhh

Staryi Krakiv (Old Krakow) H-2, Shpytalna 21, tel. 0

32 297 16 30, fax 0 32 255 09 95, staryikrakiv@ukrpost.


ua, www.staryikrakiv.lviv.ua. Turning on to Shpytalna vul.
is like stepping into the aftermath of a massive explosion.
The street has been completely demolished. Unfortunately,
the only access to this hotel is by foot. However, the reward
for the twisted ankle and dust on your shoes is a clean,
newly remodelled room at a great price. Staff is friendly
and speaks some English. The complimentary breakfast
is served in the cosy courtyard caf. VAT not included.
Q10 rooms (4 singles 330Hr, 4 doubles 380Hr, 2 triples
440Hr). RGKW hhh

Vienna B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. 0 32 244 43 14/244


43 15, fax 0 32 244 43 16, wienhotel@mail.lviv.ua,
www.wienhotel.lviv.ua. Viennas location, competitive
prices and welcoming staff makes for an attractive combination. Even in the slow season rooms are hard to come by,
so book ahead. All rooms have a cosy welcome home appeal, offer enthralling views of Lvivs lively centre and come
equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV and Internet access.
The summer patio, part of the celebrated Vienna Coffe House
restaurant, is one of the hottest venues in town. A billiard hall
is also available. Q20 rooms (10 singles 450 - 520Hr, 4
doubles 500 - 570Hr, 2 triples 580Hr, 2 suites 750 - 820Hr, 2
junior suites 640 - 690Hr). PARLKW hhh

lviv.inyourpocket.com

15/7, Konopnytskoi Str.


+380 32 276 07 13
+380 93 948 93 26
hostel.leocity@gmail.com
www.leocityhostel.com

Budget
George C-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. 0 32 272 59 52, fax 0

32 297 11 44, info@georgehotel.com.ua, www.georgehotel.com.ua. Hotel George was founded by George Hoffman in
1901. The structure itself is a fine example of Neo-Renaissance
architecture and was designed by famed Viennese architects
Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. The interior was restored in 1991 meaning that a touch of Soviet remains, i.e. the
lift really takes your breath away. The deluxe and semi-deluxe
rooms are spacious, have been remodelled to the local taste
and come standard with telephone, cable TV, Internet access
and a refrigerator. Many rooms have romantic views of Svobody
prosp. and Lvivs historic centre. Tourist class rooms come at a
bargain rate, but youll have to share a bathroom and shower.
The service is up to standard and English is not a problem for
most of the helpful staff. Q72 rooms ( economy rooms 250
- 300Hr, standards 420 - 508Hr, junior suites 630 - 680Hr,
suites 710 - 760Hr). PHARKW hhh

Out of town
Vezha Vedmezha Tsotsora natural boundary, Volosyanka

village, Skolivskyi district, Lviv Region, tel. 0 67 474 44


74/0 97 410 53 10, fax 0 32 276 16 61, info@vv-hotel.
com, www.vv-hotel.com. If you need to flee the city or just
want to get high on crisp mountain air, this is the place for you.
Located in a picturesque nook of the Carpathian Mountains,
not far from the Slavske ski resort, this cosy castle features 25
uniquely furnished suites. The Vezha suite is the pride of the
hotel, and features a romantic fireplace and breathtaking panoramic views. All suites are equipped with satellite TV, telephone,
safe, mini-bar and hair dryer. Specialising in corporate teambuilding events, attendees may choose from a variety of activities such as the medieval themed Brave Heart programme,
mountain rescue, rafting and much more. One final note of
interest: Vezha Vedmezha won in The Brightest New Hotel
category at the 2008 Ukrainian Travel Awards. Q26 rooms (20
doubles 600 - 720Hr, 4 suites 900Hr, 1 superior suite 1500Hr,
1 apartments 1800Hr). PHA6LGKDC hhhh

U Burgera I-4, Ivana Franka 73, tel. 0 32 276 12 51, fax

0 32 296 65 69, info@burger.com.ua, www.burger.com.


ua. We were a touch confused when we first entered the hotel:
theres a beer tap mounted on the reception desk. Im sure
were not the first visitors to wonder Where the hell are we?
Since we had a few minutes to kill before our tour, we ordered
a couple pints of Lvivske Premium and enjoyed. Rooms are
comfortable and come in various themes. For example, the
lux room sleeps up to four and looks like something Elton
John would decorate. All rooms are equipped with satellite
TV, Internet and telephone. General services include transfer
from the airport and rail station, travel services, interpreter,
car hire, room service and parking. A small conference hall
is also available. Q18 rooms (10 standards 375 - 450Hr, 5
junior suites 525 - 600Hr, 3 suites 750 - 1200Hr, extra bed
100Hr). PHARLKW hhhh

2, 8, 10 bed dorms Internet Wi-Fi Guest kitchen Tourist desk Cable TV DVD
Common room Linen included Security lockers Frige Washing machine Dryer
24h security Towels Airport transfer Luggage storage Iron/Ironing Board

Vezha
Vedmezha
Hotel resting complex
Medieval castle in the heart of the breathtaking Carpathians

Tsotsora natural boundary, Volosyanka village


Skolivskyi District, Lviv Region, 82663, Ukraine
reception: +380 67 47 444 74, booking: +380 97 410 5 310
email: info@vv-hotel.com, www.vv-hotel.com

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Hostels
Kurmanovicha Kurmanovycha 9, tel. 0 67 314 66 61,

hostelling.lviv@gmail.com. Although this hostel is located


a bit from centre, it has its pluses. Situated in a recreation zone, its just a 50 metre walk from Levandivka Park.
Twenty-five rooms can accommodate up to 120 travellers.
Conveniences are shared, but hot water is available 24/7. A
relatively large car park is available. Discounts from 10 -15%
are offered to groups larger than 20. Breakfast and parking
are not included in the rate. Q25 rooms (2 doubles 60Hr,
19 quads 60Hr, 20 dorm beds 60Hr). RL
Leo City I-4, Konopnytskoi 15/7, 3d floor, door code
7, tel. 0 32 276 07 13, hostel.leocity@gmail.com, www.
leocityhostel.com. Locating the building that houses this
hostel is easy. The trick is finding your way into the hostel
itself. Its actually located on the third floor, and you may need
to call reception for someone to show you the way. Once inside,
youll discover competitive rates on newly remodelled rooms.
Choose from a ten or eight bed room, and one private room.
The freebie list is extensive and includes coffee, tea, milk,
breakfast, towels, linens, Wi-Fi, luggage storage, maps and
advice. Q 1 double 34, 18 dorm beds 11 - 14. ARW
Retro Hostel Shevchenko C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 16,
tel./fax 0 32 240 37 61, sun.hotel.2007@gmail.com.
Ideally located on one of Lvivs most central thoroughfares,
Retro has a lot to offer. Choose from a single bed in a private
room to a bed in a room with 13 potential new best friends
and everything in between. Most rooms are spacious, and all
rooms come with air conditioning and security lockers. Prices
are competitive and the staff is very pleasant. A wide range of
amenities are available including airport transfer, 24 hour reception, Wi-Fi and Internet access, breakfast (for an additional 2
euros), parking, tours, kitchen, bar, restaurant, barbecue area,
pool table and hot tub. Q14 rooms (4 doubles 5, 2 triples
5, 2 quads 5, 52 dorm beds 3 - 4). JARW
The Kosmonaut A-4, Sichovyh Striltsiv 8, tel./fax 0 32
260 16 02, info@thekosmonaut.com, www.thekosmonaut.com. The Kosmonaut has become Lvivs most popular
hostel for one simple reason: Aussie owner Eddie and his staff
genuinely care about each and every guest. The enthusiasm
they exude for their city is infectious. They know all the hotspots
and never hesitate to let you in on where to go and what to do.
Youre sure to find yourself in the company of a fascinating and
eclectic crowd of fellow travellers. We sat down for the complementary breakfast of baked apple, tea and toast and quickly
found ourselves swapping life stories with two Peace Corps
volunteers, a Dutch pensioner, an AWOL American soldier, two
stranded Russian journalists and a Croat in town to find a Geiger
counter. Accommodation options include 12, 10, 6 and 4 bed
dormitories and one private room. A communal kitchen, free
Internet and Wi-Fi and laundry are also available. Q1 double
26, 1 quad 9 - 12, 28 dorm beds 9 - 11. LGW

October - December 2009

13

14

restaUraNts

restaUraNts

Lvivs dining scene is a reflection of the citys incredibly


rich and diverse history. Every corner of global cuisine is
represented (French, Greek, Italian, Viennese, Jewish,
Asian, American, Latin, etc.), and local Ukrainian and
Halytska (Galician) restaurants are among the finest in
Ukraine. In the historic centre, youre never more than a
couple steps away from your next dining experience, and
the standard of service is excellent. With so many establishments to choose from, we hope that this guide serves
as the solution to the overwhelming question: Whats for
dinner?

Symbol key

Ukrainian
Hors C-4, Staroyevreiska 5, tel. 0 32 235 41 57, www.

hors.com.ua. Hors was the Slavic god of the winter sun whom
ancient Lvivian pagans associated with healing and survival. The
stairs leading to the restaurant have been described as fifteen
stairs to the 15th Century. You are not entering a basement, this
is actually a renovated section of an ancient catacomb and the
rocks that line the base of the arched walls were set in the 15th
Century. The unique mysterious atmosphere is definitely worth
checking out, but dont get too distracted as the menu offers
its own intrigue with items like salmon with spinach, steaks and
dishes dedicated to the Slavic gods. Live music is performed
Thursday-Sunday. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PAGW

International Varenyky Fund (IVF) C-3, Kathedralna

pl. 3, tel. 0 32 272 60 96. Currently, IVF is a bit tricky to


find. Its front door is buried in a mesh of scaffolding - part
of an attempt to reconstruct the buildings faade. My hippy
aunt, still suffering acid flashbacks, may well have been the
interior decorator. Pelmeni are ordered individually, and go for
142 kopeks per unit. Varenyky come stuffed with a variety
of tasty fillings including mashed potatoes, cheese, cabbage
and cherries. Many of the main dishes are priced per 100
gram so ask the server for approximate size in order to avoid
confusion when the bill arrives. Menus in English are available
upon request. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PAG

Kentavr C-3, pl. Rynok 34, tel. 0 322 72 05 12. Kentavr

is the mythical god with the head and torso of a man and body
of a horse. Oddly enough, Kentavr has no connection to this
restaurant or its cuisine, but it is a pretty kick-butt mascot.
The dining area has a laid back atmosphere with inspiring
paintings, some of which are the work of local painters and can
be purchased. Ukrainian and European dominate the menu.
Varenyky, pork dishes of all shapes and sizes and savoury
fish dishes are some of the highlights. Rich desserts, such as
the chocolate Praga cake, four types of strudel and cheesecake, go great with the speciality teas, which arrive to the
table in fancy pots. Brunch is served daily from 11:00-13:00.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PALEGSW

Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa G-2, Kleparivska 18,

tel. 0 32 242 25 94, www.robertdoms.lviv.ua. Robert


Doms, an aristocratic young Swiss man, brought his brewing
talent to Lvivske Brewery in the 1850s. Every morning a young
Lvivian maiden named Zosia would bring Robert a five litre
tankard of the previous days brew, which he would guzzle (a
crude but effective means of quality control). With the help of
his extremely thick beer-goggles, Robert soon fell in love and
married Zosia. The pub, located in one of Lvivske Brewerys
cellars (a 15 minute walk from centre) is a fitting tribute to
Robs contribution to Lvivs beer industry and to his and Zosias
touching romantic tale. The energy here is unmatched in Lviv
and live music echoes through the cellars halls nightly. With
hearty Ukrainian meals served for up to six, the fantastic menu
encourages a communal dining experience. Who knows, guzzle
enough fresh brew and you too might hook-up with your own
Zosia. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . AEGS

Lviv In Your Pocket

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child friendly

S Take away

V Home delivery

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

I Fireplace

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

L Guarded parking

E Live music

B Terrace

W Wi-Fi internet access

Kryjivka C-4, pl. Rynok 14, tel. 0 32 254 61 18/0 95

260 45 46, fax 0 32 54 61 18, www.kryjivka.com.ua.


When the uniformed guard opens the peep-hole to this theme
caf/restaurant and says Slava Ukraini (Glory to Ukraine),
thats your cue to respond Geroyam slava (Glory to its heroes). This was the greeting used by soldiers of the Ukrainian
Insurgent Army (UPA) as they waged guerrilla war against the
Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 1943-49. Its also your
ticket past the guard. Once inside, youll find a fascinating and
jovial bunker complete with grenades, rifles and other military
antiques. Just as the UPA was immensely popular in Lviv, so is
this eatery dedicated to the memory of their sacrifice. Tables
can be scarce, so book ahead. Traditional Ukrainian dishes
and spirits add to what is certain to be a lasting memory of
your visit to Lviv. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. . AW

Porokhova Vezha D-3, Pidvalna 4, tel. 0 32 276 51

62. This popular eatery can be a bit tricky to find. Its located
across the street from the Dominican Cathedral in the ancient
looking fortress with the two smirking lions perched on the
steps. Enter through the north side. Locals and travellers alike
are attracted by the reasonable priced Ukrainian favourites
and snug atmosphere perfect for enjoying a glass of wine.
The summer terrace with shashlyk grill is a popular cooling-off/filling-up point for hikers ascending and descending
Vysokyi Zamok Mount. English is in short supply, but the
servers are charming and patient (theyve seen your kind
before). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . GS

Veronika C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 21, tel. 0 32 261 44 56,

www.veronika.lviv.ua. On a day when most eateries were


deserted, Veronica only had a couple tables available in the
basement. The interior is tight but classy and the soft lighting
adds to the romantic ambiance. The menu is mostly European
with some Ukrainian and a sprinkling of other world favourites.
Choose from four varieties of fondue, an impressive selection
of fish dishes and mouth watering breads and desserts baked
fresh on site. With western classics such as the European
breakfast croissant with ham and veggies, this is winning
choice for breakfast. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . AGS

Vezha Kramariv (Merchant Tower) B-3, Svobody

prosp. 16-18, tel. 0 32 272 39 39. While feasting in this


restaurants tower, its easy to imagine what supper would
have been like at the home of a medieval merchant. On the
third floor youll find bear skin rugs, a stuffed beaver, a jack-alope minus the horns and other sorted items, which add to the
motif. The summer terrace is one of the most popular warmweather spots on Svobody. The Dutch KaasDoop fondue is
large enough feed a small partisan army, the barbeque items
are in high demand and the chefs original creations - such as
the salmon steak stewed with sour cream, apples and bananas
- are definitely stimulating. We sampled the stewed pork (tasty,
but a bit on the greasy side) and the baked veal medallions
(tender and served with a mouth-watering compliment of fresh
vegetables). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. . PTAIGW

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Armenian

European

Krakivska Brama B-3, Krakivska 5, tel. 0 32 236 72

Amadeus C-4, Kathedralna pl. 7, tel. 0 32 261 50 22.

73. Though European, Carpathian (Hutsul) and Ukrainian are


all represented on the menu, the delicious authentic Armenian
is what sets this place apart. We recommend taking a seat in
the basement near the flavourful mangal (grill), where chefs
meticulously roast Lulya kebab, mutton shashlyk, sea trout
and other traditional delicacies. If you would like to keep the
good times rolling after hours, it will set you back 150Hr per
hour. Also, its definitely worth keeping this eatery in mind
for breakfast; the omelettes and crepes come with complimentary tea and toast. Banquets can be organized for up to
50, and tour groups are welcome to place orders in advance.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. . PAUIGS

Chinese
Pan Tao Krymska 28, tel. 0 32 225 77 40/225 77

30, www.pantao.com.ua. Pan Tao is a stylish restaurant


with an impressive and exotic kitchen. Sample some of the
Orients finest culinary traditions including Peking Duck, a
signature frogs legs dish and a variety of delicious desserts.
With more than 100 vintages from all over the world, its no
surprise that the sommelier is one of the more popular staff
members. Flavourful and relaxing, the tea ceremonies are
worth savouring till the last drop. .QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
PAEGS

Czech
Praga (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. 0 32

260 24 42, www.praga.lviv.ua. The interior of this popular


Czech restaurant is decorated in Art Nouveau and is set-off
by reproductions of the tastefully provocative art of Alphonse
Mucha. An English menu is in the works. For now, just close
your eyes, point to an item and you wont be disappointed.
The professional English speaking staff is at your service to
help with your selection. Praga knows how to roast (especially pork) and all dishes swim in rich flavour. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00.. PTAEGSW

Price guide
The average price for a main course:

more than 20 per person

15 - 20 per person

10 - 15 per person

less than 10 per person

lviv.inyourpocket.com

When the roof is shut on the summer terrace its impossible


to see the sign to this popular restaurant located in the
heart of old town. If you get turned around, just look next
to the Diamant Jewellers workshop. With one of the most
eclectic menus in Lviv, its hard to go wrong and the pork steak
Amadeus comes highly recommended. Familiarity in service
standards, a fantastic breakfast/brunch menu and a posh but
not too over the top atmosphere make this a popular expat
haunt. .QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PA

Atmosphera C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. 0 322 55

08 32, www.atmosphera.lviv.ua. For Ukrainians, atmosphere is everything. Current dining trends represent a revolt
against the drab stand-up Soviet lunch counters and cafs
that were once the only option. Atmosphera offers creative
Euro cuisine to go with the ultra-chic ambiance. The menu
features steaks (pork and veal) and intriguing dishes such as
Mafaldine pasta with cold smoked salmon, red caviar, cream
and parmesan cheese. This venue also houses a business
meeting room and a popular pub/club. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. . PAESW

Darwin B-3, Shevska 6, 5th floor, tel. 0 32 294 82 05.

The name Darwin was chosen not only as a tribute to the


father of evolutionary theory but as a symbolic statement
announcing the embodiment of the evolution and refinement
of Lvivs restaurant scene. Located on the fifth and sixth
floor of a renovated historic structure, the elegant atmosphere is framed by enticing views of surrounding ancient roof
tops. The menu contains one of the most elaborate seafood
selections found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea
bass and savoury salmon dishes. Theres also an enticingly
unique offering of game such as wild boar under cherry
sauce and wine basted venison. Being a popular cigar club,
the finest smokes are available and smoking is permitted
throughout the restaurant. Popular with locals and tourists
alike, Darwin tends to be busy on the weekends making advanced booking the way to go. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .
PAGW

Europe C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 14, tel. 0 32 261 19

71, www.restourant-europa.com. With its tasteful atmosphere, Europe is perfect for a relaxed or romantic meal. The
menu is simple but exquisite; even with the limited selection
youll have a hard time deciding between the succulent fish,
meat and poultry dishes. The wine card and cocktail selection
are scanty so go with food on your mind. A minimum bill charge
of 250Hr applies for using the private dining area. Located
upstairs (watch your step) it can accommodate up to 10, but is
lacking in elbow room. Great breakfast specials are available
daily. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PTALGW

October - December 2009

15

16

restaUraNts
Brewery
Kumpel D-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. 0 32 242 17 80.

The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two large


vats where Kumpel beer is brewed. Its definitely worth
your time to sample all three varieties (dark, light and
red). We were particularly impressed by the incredibly
fresh and lively light. The menu is loaded with steaks,
seafood and beer munchies. For exceptional service,
just push the little call button. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
. PAGBS

Fashion Club B-4, pl. Ivana Pidkovy 1, tel. 0 32 272

88 91. Fashion Club is fronted by one of Svobody prospects


largest and most popular outdoor seating areas. The ambiance of the restaurant area isnt quit as fashionable as one
might expect, nevertheless, the kitchen is open `round the
clock and whips up a plethora of European: English breakfast
for late night partiers/early-birds, Italian antipasto for lunch
and T-bone steaks and filet mignon for dinner. The club is
located in the back, attracts some of the more talented local
DJs and is open nightly from 11:00 to 5:00. No cover-charge
Monday through Wednesday. Thursday is ladies night and
Friday through Sunday attracts a diverse and vibrant crowd.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. . PAS

Garmata H-4, Hrabovskoho 11, tel. 0 32 295 82 22,

www.citadel-inn.com.ua. Located at the enthralling Citadel


Inn, this elegant restaurant offers an inspiring panorama of
Lviv, excellent European cuisine and a spacious dining hall
with unforgettable ambiance reminiscent of 19th Century
Austria. The walls are decorated in various historical themes,
and the engrossing decorative rugs display ancient maps of
Lviv. Though this is one of Lvivs romantic hotspots, it is also
ideal for banquets, business meetings and hooking up with
friends. The citadels cannons are fired on special occasions,
and a childrens room is also available. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
. PALGSW

Grand Hotel Restaurant B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. 0

32 272 40 91, www.ghggroup.com.ua. Known for its attention to detail and service standards that cater specifically
to foreign travellers, Grand Hotel Restaurant is perfect for both
romantic dinners and lively business luncheons. Ukrainian and
European cuisine make up a menu highlighted by the kitchens
own creations. For a memorable bite of Lviv, try the Grand
Hotel pork (stuffed grilled pork served in a coconut milk and
pepper sauce) and the Grand Hotel cake (a secret recipe chocolate cake). Located on Lvivs main strolling prospects, the
summer terrace is one of the citys most popular dining spots.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PAULEGSW

Kupol A-6, Chaikovskoho 37, tel. 0 32 261 44 54, www.

kupol.lviv.ua. Imagine that your Polish-Ukrainian aunt has


invited you for dinner. By the way, the year is 1955. Kupol
blends a homey atmosphere, traditional Polish cuisine and
antiques from the early 20th Century to create one of Lvivs
most unforgettable dining experiences. Add to that reasonable prices and limited seating andwell, youd be wise
to book ahead. The pork in cranberry sauce is particularly
popular. The separate banquet hall accommodates up to 20.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PAGSW

Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya Halychyny (The Most


Expensive Galician Restaurant) C-4, pl. Rynok 14, tel.

0 50 430 87 83. At first we thought that the word Expensive


was a mistranslation, but then we opened the menu Dont be
frightened by the prices, if you show interest in the restaurants
Masonic theme, your waiter is likely to give you a 10 times

Lviv In Your Pocket

restaUraNts
cheaper discount card. Besides, we are convinced that the
food and fascinating ambiance are well worth the insane prices.
As we entered, an attendant dressed us in the Masonic apron,
and then introduced this fascinating cult. It was quite revealing
how influential the Masons have been in shaping world history.
Benjamin Franklin, George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Peter
the Great and local heroes Mykhailo Hrushevsky and Ivan Franko
were all Masons. This place is brimming with fascinating symbolism, relics and tales, and the menu aint bad either. The European
fare drips with authenticity; this is perhaps the only place in town
where you can find a classic Caesar salad. The centrepiece is an
antique piano on which a pianist performs Friday - Sunday from
20:00 - 23:00.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. . PAGW

Vienna Coffe House B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. 0

32 272 20 21, fax 0 32 272 24 52, www.wienkaffe.


lviv.ua. At Lvivs epicentre youll find the Vienna Hotel and
the popular Vienna Coffe House. The venue is split in two
with a caf on one side and an elegant restaurant/banquet
room on the other. Order anything on the menu with the
word Viennese attached and you wont be disappointed.
The Viennese schnitzel with mushroom sauce could be the
best schnitzel this side of the Danube. Its easy to become
glued to your seat on the relaxing summer terrace, a perfect
location for sipping rich coffee and gorging on apple strudel.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PAGW

Georgian
Staryi Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) J-3, Pekarska 28, tel. 0 32

276 61 11. Georgians are known throughout Eastern Europe


as masters of the grill, and the chefs at Staryi Tiflis uphold this
stereotype. Chicken wings, lamb, pork, veggies and even beef
tongue are all roasted to perfection over open flames. Whenever pouring snifters of cognac, a friend of ours from Tbilisi
likes to joke, Its always useful to keep a bottle of French or
Armenian cognac around the house - you need something
to clean the glasses out before pouring the good Georgian
stuff. Indeed, Georgians are extremely proud of their cognac
and aromatic wines, and Staryi Tiflis has some of the better
brands on hand. They also keep some French and Armenian
behind the bar in case you notice some spots on your glass.
.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGSW

Halytska
Restoratsiaya na Valoviy D-4, Valova 25, tel. 0 32

272 59 73. You can always tell how refined a restaurant is


by the number of forks set near the plate: this place had four.
The dining area is decorated with classic prints and exciting
original paintings by local artists. The chefs dedication to
flavour, aroma and presentation is tremendous; go with the
understanding that quality takes time, and that all available
Galician and European dishes are well worth the wait. The
menus highlights include one of the citys best seafood
selections, Hungarian style veal goulash and the Lviv pie,
which is so sophisticated it must be ordered 24 hours in
advance. Private celebrations can be booked for up to 40.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PAUIEGS

Lev B-3, Tetralna 16, tel. 0 32 295 95 00, www.leopolisho-

tel.com. Everything about the Leopolis Hotel is stunning and


superior, and the hotels restaurant is no exception. Amazingly,
this could be the best value for hryvnia in town. In the west, when
we go out for a cream-of-the-crop experience we expect to pay
cream-of-the-crop prices; youll be shocked at how affordable this
place really is. Highlights include a Carpathian meat kebab, juicy
mushroom risotto, rich lamb chops and a zesty sea bass. Servers are well acquainted with western standards and speak fluent
English. .QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA6IEGSW

lviv.inyourpocket.com

International
La Rouge C-6, Saksahanskoho 11, tel. 0 32 240 34

76. Just a stones throw from the hectic historic centre, the
prevailing atmosphere can be described as hushed. Skip
the Ukrainian and order from the European menu. The chefs
were trained by an Italian master, and their command over
classic Italian recipes is noteworthy. The lasagne Bolognese, cannelloni Rossini and ravioli with salmon all feature
La Rouges handmade pasta. Other specialties include
eggplant parmesan and captivating seafood, pork and veal
dishes. A classy banquet hall can accommodate up to 40,
and a VIP hall is available for 15. . QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
PAGS

Italian
Valentino C-5, Ostapa Nyzhankivskoho 20, tel. 274

50 61, www.valentino.lviv.ua. Valentino fills in the gaps


left by many of Lvivs restaurants, i.e. the Italian chef has
put together a stunning menu of authentic favourites.
Renown for their extensive wine card, the classic
atmosphere and scrumptious cuisine make this an obvious
choice for those with Italian on their minds. QOpen 07:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 02:00. . PTAGESW

Japaneese
Sushi Kappo-IN D-6, Levytskoho 8, tel. 0 32 245 31

09. Sushi Kappos ultra-relaxing atmosphere literally put me


to sleep; the charming waitress had to startle me awake in
order to keep me from falling face first into the plate. The
previous night had been a wild one (as is often the case in
Lviv) and Kappos zesty selection of sushi was just what the
doctor ordered. Located on the edge of centre, its well worth
the 10 minute walk. QOpen 10:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 23:00. . PLGS

SushiYA C-5, Soborna pl. 17, tel. 0 32 235 61 58.


Sushi restaurants have spread through Ukraine faster
than a medieval plague and SushiYA has become one
of the most recognised and respected chains of the lot.
Always conveniently located, the service is unobtrusive,
the atmosphere pleasant and the sushi invitingly more delicious than the reasonable prices might otherwise suggest.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PAGS

Yapi B-4, Svobody prosp. 6/8, tel. 0 32 272 28 01,


www.egoisty.com. The only English that appears on
Yapis menu is their slogan, compliments of Bobby McFerrin, that reads Dont worry be happy. The menus vivid
photos make language redundant: just point to whatever
looks good and the colourful friendly staff will take over. The
restaurants interior resembles the stereotypical Japanese
caf seen in films with glass tables suspended from cables,
glass chairs framed in steel and hints of neon. Inviting lunch
specials, an imaginative sushi selection and a unique array
of salads sets this sushi joint apart. The second level seating
offers a unique perspective of Svobodys pedestrian traffic.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PAGBS

Yapona Hata C-4, Staroyevreiska 4, tel. 0 32 297

51 17, www.yaponahata.com. The name suggests a


Japanese take on the Ukrainian khatas that dominate the
countrys low budget dining market. We were understandably
surprised by the relatively high prices, but (as we say in the
West) you get what you pay for. The location is exceptional and
the inventive sushi choices more than justify the blow to your
wallet. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. . PAGBSW

lviv.inyourpocket.com

October - December 2009

17

18

Cafs

restaUraNts
Fast food & Sandwiches

Jewish

Bistro B-317 A-4, Kosciuszka 6, tel. 0 32 72 87

Synagogue. This Jewish restaurant is located downhill from


the ruins of the Golden Rose Synagogue, the oldest synagogue
in Ukraine. The outdoor seating is exceptional and helps make
this a dining hotspot. Here are a few things to know before
you go. 1. There are no prices listed on the menu as you are
expected to barter. Being a foreigner, theyre likely to just quote
you a reasonable price. 2. For the right price you can secretly
arrange to have your waiter smuggle in some pork dishes.
How kosher is this place? 3. They offer a fantastic selection
of salads, vegetable dishes, Galician desserts and traditional
Jewish breads. 4. For a taste of Lviv youll never forget, try the
homemade vodka. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . A

47/243 93 17. B-317 is pricier than some of the competition, but the portions are large and everything is tasty
and fresh. The creamy mashed potatoes and pork cutlet,
just like grandma used to make, are a delectable cure
for those low-budget hunger pains. Traditional Ukrainian
is served up behind the counter and they also do pizza
(delivery available). Get a 20% discount after 20:00.
QOpen 8:30 - 22:00. . PS

DeMandjaro C-4, Halytska 10, tel. 0 32 297 01 71,


www.demanjaro.com. The selection is quite impressive
for a fast food joint. Choose from pizzas, burgers, steaks,
shashlyk, potatoes, ice cream, cakes, etc. Items are listed in
Ukrainian only, but luckily for us words like steak, burger
and pizza dont need a translation. Though popular with
poor students and budget minded families, the entrance
and outdoor seating area happens to be on Halytska vul.,
one of Lvivs most classy and romantic streets. Also at
Staroyevreiska 4, Doroshenka 19, prosp. Chervonoyi Kalyny
36. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. . PTAUGS

Hit-Caf A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 7, tel. 0 32 261 67

88. Hit offers up familiar western favourites including


pizza, spaghetti and club sandwiches; tempting grill and
meat dishes like steaks and kebobs; and a splattering
of traditional Ukrainian treats such as borsch and pickled
herring under a fur coat. Its possible to satisfy your
hunger for less than 30Hr under an atmosphere a step
up from the standard fast food joint. Also at B-6, Jokhara
Dudaeva 7, tel. 0 32 261 17 72; F-4, Kyivska 7, tel. 0 32
237 77 67; F-3, Mytropolyta Andreya 8, tel. 0 32 237 77
21. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. . PTA6

Kartopliana Khata D-5, Lychakivska 4-6, tel. 0 32


242 05 26. This is a cowboy, Indian and Che Guevara
themed fast food joint where patrons can order a baked
potato served in small bowl and topped with scrumptious titbits. Burritos, spicy wings, barbeque ribs and
traditional salads are also on hand. A popular lunch spot,
this is a nice choice if youre in a rush. . QOpen 09:00
- 22:00. PAGS

Puzata Khata A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 12, tel. 0 32

244 87 28, www.puzatakhata.kiev.ua. Albeit a lowbudget, family-friendly, la carte eatery, Puzata Khata
has a knack for establishing itself in prime locations.
This is true of the Lviv restaurant sandwiched between
Svobody prosp. and Ivan Franko National University. All
restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of
traditional Ukrainian dishes. The interiors are inventive
and usually combine a 19th Century theme with a touch
of local flare. Fill your gut for only a few bucks! QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. Also at Horodotska 300 (open 08:00
- 22:00). . PAIGS

Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu C-4, Staroyevreiska, near the

Latin American
Alpaca C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. 0 32 272 50 41.

Alpaca has your Latin cravings covered. For those who like it
spicy, try the jalapeos rellenos - they kick like a painted Tijuana
burro. This is a fine choice for the whole family. Mom and Pop
can choose from one of five variations of Margarita and the
kids will love the nachos, burritos, enchiladas and the surprise
souvenirs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. . PALG

Out of town
Santino Shkilna 10A, Navariya, Lviv region, tel. 0 67 923

Alekstra C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. 0 32 225 63 09.

Alekstra is popular for its extensive mix of Ukrainian and


original fare, and the fresh baked cakes, cookies and original
sweets are coveted. This is a good choice if youre looking
to unwind with a pot of tea or cup of coffee. The ambiance is
typical, as is the quiet outdoor seating, pop music and Fashion
TV. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTUGB

Cabinet D-4, Vynnychenka 12, tel. 0 32 272 05 12.


Cabinet is the embodiment of Lvivs coffee culture: laid-back,
intelligent and delicious. The defining feature is the quaint
library, which contains a small selection of works in English
(mostly guides and souvenir coffee table books). The coffee is distinctively rich and the offering of Ukrainian cuisine
hearty. This is a perfect pit-stop for those perusing the
areas numerous sites of interest including the Arsenal Museum, the Dominican Cathedral and the Assumption Church.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AW

57 01/0 67 603 69 95. Nestled in a forest overlooking a


breathtaking lake, Santino is located just beyond the city limits in
the charming village of Navariya. Youll need a car to get here, and
once youve arrived just look for the distinct one-story building
with a terrace surrounded by quaint pavilions, stone paths and
glorious nature. The restaurants main hall features large bay
windows that frame the stunning lake below. The assortment
of dishes is selective yet tasty. Plan on at least 30 minutes for
the food to hit the table, but with this kind of serenity you wont
be in a rush. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PALG

Caf 1 C-4, Kathedralna pl. 5, tel. 0 32 242 33 69.

Seafood

www.cukiernia.com.ua. The menu opens with a quote from


an unknown author ...only the sweet eaters are considered
to be the most important members of society. Indeed, with
a name like Cukiernia (sweet shop) youre guaranteed to leave
with a sugar buzz. They dont miss a page from babushkas
cookbook and bake up everything from cakes and rolls to strudels, pastries and cookies. The tasty selection of crpes and
the Viennese breakfast make this a hotspot for brunch. Local
kids swarm like ravenous bees in the early afternoon for ice
cream, sundaes and shakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AS

Panorama A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. 0 32 225 90 09.

Located on the seventh floor of the Opera Hotel, Panorama offers


an unmatched view of the Opera House and of Lvivs historic
centre. The summer terrace and the tables closest to the view
are extremely popular. Booking ahead will insure a spectacular
evening. The eclectic menu reads like poetry: Veal medallions
with forest mushrooms and black truffle sauce. The Caesar
salad has procured a cult following and the crab soup is unbelievably rich. If youre hoping to spark a new romance or just kick start
an old love, this is the obvious place to start or finish your evening.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTALEGSW

Steak House J-4, Pekarska 31, tel. 0 32 276 67 06.

The smell of fermented grapes is sure to perk your nostrils


as you enter this small but inviting caf. The focus here
is wine, and the simple yet delectable dishes such as ravioli and quiche Loraine compliment the full-bodied reds and
delicate whites. Ideally located in the heart of the old town,
tables can sometimes be hard to find, but any wait is well
worth it. Wonderful English speaking service is available.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALGB

Cukiernia C-4, Staroyevreiska 3, tel. 0 32 274 09 49,

Double Coffee C-5, Rudanskoho 1, tel. 0 32 74 22 48,

www.doublecoffee.com. ua/eng. This popular Eastern


European caf chain catches your eye with its wonderfully
illustrated menu. The selection of coffee and coffee cocktails
is impressive as are the tempting dishes and snacks: crpes,
sushi, soups, salads, pasta and sweets. For something familiar and quick for breakfast, try one of the delicious omelettes
with crunchy toast. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.

Frantsishka B-3, Krakivska 18, tel. 0 32 255 08 96.

Steak house is a nice twist on the low budget lunch/dinner


counter in that it offers a freshly grilled piece of carcass
to go with all the usual la carte salads and side dishes.
Theres no English menu available so allow us to introduce
some vocabulary that will help with your order: for a beef
steak say steak z yalovychyny, for a pork steak steak z
svynyny and for grilled chicken steak z kuryatyny. Their
specialty, the lambada, is a massive, spicy pork steak
garnished with crisp lettuce, pineapple, sweet peppers
and corn. . QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. S

Lviv In Your Pocket

Welcome to Ukraines coffee capital! Life for Lvivians


revolves around the caf, and its no wonder that there
is an endless selection of establishments to choose
from. Indeed, its theoretically possible to visit a different
caf everyday and never see the same place twice. No
matter where you end up, youre sure to find a charming
atmosphere, rich aromatic coffee and a loaded menu. The
city also boasts a variety of must-visit theme cafs that
brilliantly introduce and preserve the citys diverse history
and culture. If youre a coffee lover, youve come to the right
place. For those that are indifferent, prepare to get hooked.

Frantsishkas mellow atmosphere is perfect for washing


away the previous nights regret(s). Milk cocktails and the
most extensive selection of tea in the city calm the upset
stomach and sooth thumping headaches. A small yet inviting
selection of cakes and sweets are on hand to compliment
the thick aromatic coffee. The only problem kicked in when
the chirpy overtly bright yellow canary began to serenade the
coffee grinder. Our initial impulse was to strangle them both,
but we quickly fell back into the calming mood and all was
well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. UGBS

lviv.inyourpocket.com

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Pizza
Celentano C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. 0 32 235

56 84, www.pizza-celentano.com. This established


pizzeria chain champions democracy by granting patrons
the choice of their own favourite toppings from a wide
range of possibilities. Various salads, crpes with different
fillings and pasta dishes are also on offer. Do the roof of
your mouth a favour and let the extremely hot pizza cool
before consumption. Friendly service and speedy delivery have become this in-and-out pizzerias trademarks.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Kopernika 9; prosp.
Svobody 24; Slovatskoho 16; Volodymyra Velykoho 123;
Vyhovskoho 47a; Horodotska 141. . PGS

New York Street Pizza A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 5, tel.

032 272 27 57/260 19 43, www.pizza-nys.com.ua.


When I asked for onions on my pizza the server looked at me
as if I had a second head growing out of my ear. Onions on
pizza? Dont be ridiculous. I rescanned the toppings list to
make sure I wasnt the butt of a practical joke. Indeedno
onions. You can top your pie with imitation crab sticks and
corn, but no onions. I settled for salami and mushrooms and
it turned out to be quite tasty. Though Ukrainian Street
Pizza would be a more fitting name, this is a nice pick for
those in a hurry and short of cash. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Also at Tershakivtsiv 5; Volodymyra Velykoho 5; Stefanyka
4; Henerala Chuprynky 36. . PGS

Freska B-3, Krakivska 9, tel. 0 32 272 49 85. As you

take your seat the charming server will place on the table a
cute little bell that you can ring for service. Revered for their
classic Lviv-style coffee (rich and aromatic) and extensive
tea card, theyre even more renowned for their uniquely delectable candies, cakes and chocolate fondue. The pleasant
atmosphere and summer terrace perched on Krakivska vul.,
a lively pedestrian thoroughfare, make this a fine choice for
indulging in a locals favourite pastime of lounging for hours
on a caf stool. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PGB

Gasova Lyampa C-3, Virmenska 20, tel. 0 32 235 75

50. To find this fascinating eatery, head up Virmenska until


you see the unmistakable bronze statue of a dude sitting
next to a lamp. This is Ignacy ukasiewicz, founder of the
Polish oil industry and inventor of the kerosene lamp. The
restaurant/museum housed within is a tribute to the mark he
left on history. (An interesting side note: ukasiewicz was not
a resident of Lviv by choice, but was exiled here by Austrian
authorities wary of his membership in a Polish revolutionary
organisation.) The scene is always energised and the menu
items, especially the fish dishes, wont leave you indifferent.
This is yet another great addition to the citys captivating
theme scene. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. S

Italiyskyi Dvoryk (Italian Yard) C-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel.

0 32 297 53 66. This romantic hotspot is located within the


Kornjakt Palace on Rynok ploshca (Market Square). Lvivians,
visitors to the palaces museum and random pedestrians
are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee lovers oasis.
Completely severed from the complexities of the outside
world, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. Mellow music, delectable fragrances and
stunning art and architecture make for a truly special caf
experience. The coffee is rich and tasty. Throughout the
summer patrons beat the heat by sipping frosty beers, cool
cocktails and frothy milkshakes. If it all looks familiar, youve
probably seen this courtyard in one of the many local and
foreign films that shot scenes here. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 1Hr. UEB

October - December 2009

19

20

Nightlife

Cafs
Kvartyra 35 (Flat 35) C-3, Virmenska 35, tel. 0

32 297 56 12. This hipster hangout is located above Pid


Klepsydroyu caf (you actually order off the same menu). The
feature that sets this snug loft apart is the live Jazz featured
just about every night. We arrived late Saturday afternoon
and a jazz pianist was already pounding the keys. Some
locals had smuggled in litres of beer in plastic bottles, but
this is blatantly unnecessary. The menu has everything you
need and then some. We had a cappuccino and a feri-fire
(flaming rum doused with an espresso) and did our best to
blend with intellectuals, artists and university kids trying
hard not to fit in. Seating is limited, but its worth waiting for
a free table. Once settled, youre likely to discover swift and
cheery service. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Admission 40Hr on
Thursdays. PALEGSW

Despite not having a menu in English (coming soon), this has


become a popular expat hang-out. The service is exceptional
and the atmosphere is smart and inviting QOpen 10:00 22:00. PAEGSW

Sonata C-4, Valova 13, tel. 0 32 274 42 29. If Sonata


doesnt already have a motto they should consider: great
prices and friendly ambiance! The aroma of roasting Krakiw
pork fills this quaint two level caf. The soups are scrumptious, the salads are tasty and their Varenyky (Ukrainianstyle dumplings) is top notch. The popular outdoor seating
is located across from the caf at Halytska pl. and offers a
close up view of King Danilos horses ass. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. PGS
Svit Kavy C-4, pl. Katedralna 6, tel. 0 32 297 56 75/0

Mapa C-4, Halytska 4, tel. 0 32 272 55 69, www.mapa.


lviv.ua. This a logical launching point for your romp around Lviv.
Not only do they offer tasty treats and desserts, you can also
order maps, atlases and sightseeing booklets in Ukrainian,
Polish and English. Plan your day while sipping coffee or tea in
the comfy interior or on the trendy veranda. Service is friendly
and in English. The cakes are flavourful but dont be fooled
by their recognisable names, i.e. the tiramisu is actually
chocolate cake with a cream cheese filling. QOpen 08:00 23:00. PTAGBW

95 523 13 18, fax 0 32 272 72 83. An ideal location, limited


space and great coffee mean that you might have to wait for a
table. The caf is actually divided into two sections that have
separate entrances next door to each other, so if one place
is full hop over to the other. The smaller room sells beans to
go and displays an interesting array of antique grinders and
other coffee paraphernalia. The fact that the place is tightly
packed intensifies the awesome aromas. A small yet delicious
selection of cakes and treats is also available. QOpen 08:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGBS

Masoch Caf C-4, Serbska 7, tel. 0 32 272 18 72, www.

Teatralne B-3, Teatralna 23, tel. 0 32 272 36 96. In

masoch-cafe.lviv.ua. This titillating theme caf/restaurant is


dedicated to writer and original freak Leopold Ritter von SacherMasoch who was born in Lviv in 1836. Masoch enjoyed playing
the role of the slave and insisted that his dominatrixes wear
furs. In fact, the word masochism was coined from his name.
The menu, which can be purchased as a souvenir (in Ukrainian only), is loaded with fabulous and unusual dishes. If your
husband is having difficulties deciding on a meal, hes probably
too distracted by the pornography that appears on the menu
and you should order for him. Hes sure to appreciate the bulls
testicles in an oil and sweet pepper sauce. They boast the best
fondue in town and the waitresses will handcuff and whip you
free of charge. On your way out the door, dont forget to reach
into Leopolds pocket for this cafs version of a fortune cookie.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PASW

Pid Klepsydroyu D-3, Virmenska 35, tel. 0 32 297 56


12, www.dzyga.com. This trendy caf is located where the
sidewalk ends on Virmenska vul. We went on a Friday night
and had to wait 20 minutes for a table. The main hall and
upstairs seating are cosy and buzz with animated banter. In
contrast, the outdoor seating offers a tranquil vantage point
for watching sunsets through the narrow crag created by the
inspiring architecture that lines Virmenska. The menu is brief
but inviting; for a taste found nowhere else on earth, try the
pig fat in chocolate. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GW

Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu C-4, Ruska 4, tel. 0 32 294

91 53. Through an alleyway, under a staircase and beyond


a decrepit yard youll find a hidden coffee house where
everything seems to be slowly caving in on itself. (If youre
looking for sparkly, new and trendy keep walking.) Though they
welcome outsiders, everthing is geared for locals. However,
the service and coffee are first-rate and the atmosphere is
one of a kind. We noticed that most of the food items were
being warmed up in the microwave: stick to coffee or beer,
enjoy the ambiance and then get out before the whole place
turns to ruble. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PGS

Praga Caf (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. 0


32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. The twisted ornamental
steel is a nice touch of Art Nouveau, the coffee is loaded and
the aroma of fresh cakes and sweats gnaws at the belly.

Lviv In Your Pocket

what once was a theatre, youll now find a smart and spacious caf with a menu chock-full of tempting original European and Ukrainian dishes. The porterhouse and tenderloin
steaks are popular with out-of-towners, and the mushroom
stuffed trout in cognac sauce and the Norwegian salmon with
strawberries are but a couple examples of the chefs originality. Teatralne can accommodate special occasions; from
small birthday parties to banquets of 50 (a special banquet
menu is available). Other highlights include rich desserts
(tiramisu, banana flamb, apple pie, etc.), excellent service
and street side seating with calming views of historic centre.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PGS

Valente C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 27, tel. 0 32 94 87

15. The tiramisu, Praga cake and euphoria cake are all
unrelentingly gorgeous. The laid back atmosphere provides
the perfect compliment for the frothy cappuccino. Indeed,
this is a fine choice if you just want to unwind with pleasant
conversation, i.e. you wont be bombarded with dance music
and Fashion TV. This is also one of the more spacious coffee
shops youll find in centre. Place your order at the counter
and divchina (girl-waitress) will bring your order to the table.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PUG

Virmenka C-3, Virmenska 19, tel.0 32 97 56 37. At

Virmenka youre not going to get tableside service, nor service


in English. However, if youre bold enough to approach the burly
woman scowling from behind the counter and say coffee,
budlaska (please), you will get an exquisite espresso, the
kind that coats the bottom of the cup with a heavy aromatic
sludge. The spinning box on the counter is the menu, but
everything worth having is in plain view (wine, tea, beer, cakes,
etc.). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. AG

Zoloto Polubotka B-4, Svobody prosp. 25, tel. 0 32

255 00 42. Tucked away in a quiet courtyard just off Svobody prosp., this cosy cafs most notable aspect is its quite
reasonable prices. Flipping through the menu, our Ukrainian
colleague mumbled, A typical mix of Ukrainian and who knows
what. She must have been referring to the shrimp under
mayonnaise. Its definitely worth popping in if you need a
break from the crowds and/or are in the mood for something
from their affordable selection of coffee and coffee cocktails.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTGS

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Lvivs clubs attract a diverse crowd, and you should be


able to blend in quite easily. The great thing about partying
in Eastern Europe is that the locals are arguably more
awkward on the dance floor than we are in the west, so
shrug off you inhibitions and convulse to the beat. Warning: Locals are overtly friendly and often invite foreigners
to party at their table. Weve learned from repeated experience that its impossible for a westerner to keep pace with
locals when it comes to shooting horilka (vodka). Slow
and steady wins the horilka race.

Bars & Pubs


1000+1 Night A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 6, tel. 032 272

25 01. Imagine chilling in a Bedouins tent, a fragrant haze


from the hookah hangs like cobwebs from the ceiling as a
seductive belly dancer floats about the room. Welcome to
1001 + 1 Nights. Choose from three private rooms (25Hr
for two hours) or enjoy the lively general hall. The menu is
highlighted by eastern and Middle Eastern favourites and
specialty desserts. Tea ceremonies are popular as is the
Lebanese coffee. A meagre 70Hr per hour will keep the party
going after last call (23:00), and you can arrange a private
belly dance for 150Hr. Discounts are available for returning
customers, ask your charming English speaking server for
details. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW

Archive Pub A-3, Furmanska 6, tel. 0 32 225 58 86.

Archive is Lvivs version of your friendly neighbourhood pub.


Its not uncommon to see whole families converge for lunch
at the weekend: dads gulp beers, moms gossip and kids
frolic under tables. Evening ushers in a new crowd, but the
mood remains relaxed even when local football matches
are shown. Dont leave without trying one of their signature
beer cocktails: beer and Fanta is a Ukrainian classic, but the
Devils Brew (beer, cognac, salt, pepper and lemon) and the
Island Paradise (beer, vodka, Malibu, gin and pineapple juice)
are sure to leave an unforgettable impression. If you can still
talk after downing one of these unique concoctions, order
from a menu full of munchies, soups, salads, steaks and
desserts. It can be hit and miss with the food - the soup was
scrumptious, but the wings were salty enough to kill a horse.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGSW

Beer Garden I-4, Ivana Franka 29, tel. 0 32 276 21 76.

This eatery/beer house can be a bit tricky to find. One might


expect that with an even number address (26) the establishment would be located on the even number side of the street
- not the case. When you reach 28 Ivana Franka look across
the street and youve arrived. A popular locals hang, the offering of brew bursts at the keg welds compared to the scant
selection of Ukrainian fare. However, flavour swirls up from
the grill, fills the halls and rushes through the open courtyard
tying knots of anticipation in the guts of eager patrons. The
wings, ribs and shashlik are all worthy of mention. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. PILGBS

Dublin A-4, prov. Kryva Lypa 5, tel.0 32 272 88 74,

www.dublin.com.ua. Wow! A reasonably priced Irish pub.


This must be a first for Ukraine. Tucked away on a pedestrian
alleyway, this a great place to meet-up, suck on an Irish steak
or just sip a tasty import and watch sports. The only thing
amiss on our visit was Axls screechy voice blaring throughout
the pub as the bartender insisted on playing a Guns N Roses
video. Yet another reminder that nothing in life is perfect,
especially here in Ukraine. We vowed to come back later in
black ski masks, wielding clubs and hockey sticks, rob the
Guns N Roses DVD and replace it with some U2, but those
types of plans never pan out. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GB

lviv.inyourpocket.com

October - December 2009

21

22

Nightlife

Nightlife

e
b
o
t
e
c
a
l
p
the
for change.

Fest B-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 19A, tel. 0 32 274 56 69.


This out-of-the-way hole-in-the-wall attracts all walks of life.
We found ourselves sandwiched between the longhaired,
tattooed bassist of a local heavy metal band, two gussied-up
university girls, a geek texting on his IPhone and a businessman in a flashy suit slugging shots of homemade vodka and
slurping borsch. With the Red Hot Chilli Peppers playing on
the juke box, we flipped through a selection of beer snacks,
sausages, soups, sandwiches, etc. The menu is also full
of historical titbits: news clippings from local Ukrainian and
Polish papers. The most intriguing is an article written by
Metropolitan Andrey Sheptytsky in which he praises the
Nazis as liberators. This gives you an idea of just how much
locals of the day despised the Soviets. Anyhow, the eclectic,
rough around the edges feel definitely justifies a return trip.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PE
Korzo Pub C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 10, tel. 0 32 225

70 92. This Lvivian version of the neighbourhood pub will


definitely raise your spirits and inspire fond memories of
back home. Theres always a game playing on the LCDs;
however, cheers of the winning goal are likely to be drowned
out by the lively chatter. Paulaner, Murphys and Pilsner Urquell
are available on tap. The menu offers everything from tasty
beer snacks to satisfying Ukrainian and international meals.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PE

Piano Bar B-4, prosp. Svobody 13, tel. 0 32 272 76

65. Piano Bar has an elegant caf appeal and is an excellent


venue for those looking to escape with a cup of Lviv-style
coffee or a cocktail. Located at the Grand Hotel, the service
standards are intently tuned to the needs of the foreign
traveller. The menu is simple, but familiar and includes
canap with caviar, chicken sandwiches, hamburgers and
fish selection for beer. The desert selection is stunning and
is highlighted by Grands own secret recipe chocolate cake.
Despite the elegant ambiance, prices are quite reasonable.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PALEW

Praga Pub A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. 0 32 274

12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. Czechs drink more beer per


capita than anyone on the planet. That being said, they
expect only the best from their breweries and Praga Lviv
taps into this tradition by serving fresh from the source
Budvar, Kruovice and other classic Czech brews. The pub is
located in the basement of the Praga complex, which includes
a restaurant and caf on the ground floor. Its welcoming
neighbourhood appeal and occasional boisterous crowds
make this an enticing venue for meeting-up, winding-down
or viewing a big game. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAEG
BSW

Berlin city of change.

Rumba Bar C-4, Staroyevreiska 4, tel. 0 32 235 70

62. Located in the heart of Old Town, Rumba offers two


inviting and contrasting atmospheres. Upstairs its dance,
house music and Fashion TV. The basement is mellower and
stages live music every Saturday and Sunday (usually a guy
playing a keyboard, singing his heart out). A hefty selection
of imports is on tap. Have the barman slice you off a hunk of
the specialty pork leg jerky, youll be hooked. The dishes are
quite possibly the most inventive in town. For example, the
Mykhaylivska plate is stuffed chicken wings, pork ribs and
homemade sausages and the very confused Rafters Dinner
is a schnitzel in a potato cake with Mexican homemade vodka.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAIEGBSW

Twenty years after the Wall came


down, the city still pulsates with
history, creativity, variety and
diversity like nowhere else on
earth. This is what makes Berlin
truly unique.
To find out more, visit
www.mauerfall09.de

www.inyourpocket.com
Lviv In Your Pocket

be open, be free, be berlin.


www.be.berlin.de

lviv.inyourpocket.com

lviv.inyourpocket.com

October - December 2009

23

24

Nightlife

Nightlife
Picasso J-5, Zelena 88, tel. 0 32 275 32 72, www.

A conceptually new
epatage night club
located in Lvivs picturesque
old town

16-18 Svobody Ave., Lviv


tel.: 0 (32) 272-39-39
www.galleryclub.info

Clubs
Cult Club B-5, Chaikovskoho 7, tel. 0 32 242 22 42.

Cult is a tribute Lvivs icons past and present. A wall of


fame wraps completely round the main hall. Though you
may only recognize a couple faces like pop star Ruslana
or former Arsenal defender Oleg Luzhny, the charismatic
ambiance is unforgettable. Prices on Ukrainian and European fare are reasonable; however, many items are priced
per 100 grams, so ask the server the approximate size
of the dish in order to avoid confusion. Cult is perhaps
best known for the live music (mostly jazz and blues) that
is staged nightly from 21:00. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00.
PAIEGSW

Gallery B-3, Svobody prosp. 16-18, tel. 0 32 272 39


39, www.galleryclub.info. Gallery is an entertaining blend
of trends and cultures; classic and hi-tech; glam, RnB and

Lviv In Your Pocket

picasso.lviv.ua. By day, Picasso is a popular caf known for


its flavourful coffee and tasty treats. By night, it metamorphoses into one of Lvivs most vibrant and popular clubs.
Concerts, retro parties and performances by top DJs fill an
eclectic calendar. Face control is the rule: ditch the dirty
trousers and comb your hair you filthy degenerate! The
last Sunday of the month is Latin night. Book a table Friday
and Saturday for a meagre 30Hr. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.
PIEBW

Pozitiff Lounge I-4, Zelena 14, tel. 0 63 777 12 22,

disco. Refined French cuisine and excellent service ensure


that the house is lively and diverse. Locals have designated
this club their unofficial hookah hangout, and a mix of exclusive aromas is omnipresent. Also, Gallery has been known to
put on intriguing events, i.e. Night on Spiked Heels was a
titillating fest where ladies who dressed in provocative attire
were ushered in free of charge. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. Sun
Open 11:00 - 06:00. Admission 50-70Hr. PALK

Metro I-4, Zelena 14, tel. 0 32 242 07 88, www.metroclub.com.ua. Those who think that theres no metro in Lviv
couldnt be more mistaken. So what if it wont transport you
around the city, Metro is one of Lvivs most popular clubs.
Progressive and cutting edge, the Red Phone hall spins
Euro Hit Parade and the impressive dance floor is usually
packed with a diverse group of partiers, expats included.
QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Admission 20Hr for girls, 30Hr for
boys. PESW

lviv.inyourpocket.com

www.pozitiff.ae. Theres no room for negative vibes at


Pozitiff, and an upbeat mood is guaranteed. Throughout the
day and into the early evening, the club adorns the guise
of an inviting caf where patrons sip coffee, hammer out
business deals or feast on lip-smacking lunches. At 20:00,
this deceptive mask is stripped away, and the club flaunts
its true colours. The set schedule is as follows: Thursday
- RnB Party, Friday - Electro Day, Saturday - Hause Empire.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PAEBSW

Sophia Grand Club C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel.

0 322 72 90 00, www.ghgroup.com.ua. Sophia Grand


Club is the pinnacle of Lvivs nightlife. Everything you need
is under one roof: Disco Bar Platinum, Alpaca restaurant,
a billiard hall and even a fitness centre. Owned and operated by the Grand Hotel, the complex is geared for first
rate entertainment and relaxation. Platinum is the place
to be for dancing, cocktails and European cuisine (open
21:00 - 06:00, closed Mon, Tue); Alpaca offers some of the
most authentic Latin cuisine in the city (see the Where to
Eat section for more information). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
PTAULEGW

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Cigar House
Fortuna I-4, Hrushevskoho 12, tel. 0 32 260 20

25. This is not your ordinary smoke shop. As you enter,


youre bound to be impressed by the extensive selection
of pipes, hookahs and other paraphernalia. But dont let
this distract you from your ultimate goal of finding the
perfect smoke. Proceed down the small corridor leading
to the smoking lounges. To your right youll find Lvivs Holy
Smoking Grail: Fortunas humidor. From Gurkha Special
Edition Limited Estate Reserves, to Auroras and Monte
Cristos (Arnold Schwarzeneggers signature smoke) this
is easily the citys finest cache of cigars. You dont need
to be an oligarch to enjoy this club, however. The general
hall is open to all, and you can order a stogy for as little
as 22Hr. Youre out of luck if youre hoping for a snifter of
cognac to enhance the experience. Fortuna sells tobacco
only. Discount programmes are available; ask the gracious staff for details. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Split Club Lviv B-5, pl. Mickiewicza 6/7, tel. 0 32 242


22 00, www.split.lviv.ua. Split is a one-stop-shop for all
your dining, drinking and entertainment needs. The Irish
pub blends with a stylish restaurant that serves Ukrainian,
European and Japanese cuisine. The restaurant also features
a private dining room where an itamae whips up inventive
sushi dishes for up to eight. Drinks are complimentary in
the VIP hall. Splits strip club is renowned for its incredibly
talented dancers and is open from 22:00 - 04:00. The
clubs specialty is the aqua show, in which the dancer takes
a shower! Private, lap and table dances are also available.
A 50Hr admission applies for the strip club. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00. PTAILEGSW

October - December 2009

25

26

What to see
Lvivs old town is so densely packed with mesmerizing,
inspiring and unique attractions that travellers often become paralyzed with fascination and never leave. Known
as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts
many of the countrys brightest and best museums, art
galleries and theatres. The uncommonly preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden
ancient niches are sure to propel your mind through a
vivid collage of centuries gone by.

Essential Lviv
Arsenal D-4, Pidvalna 5,

tel. 0 322 72 70 60. The


city arsenal and its adjoining
defensive walls are visible
from Arsenal vul. Construction on the original two-storied stone building began in
the 14th Century, but was
not completed until 1555.
After nearly two centuries of
toil this original structure was
completely destroyed by fire
after only 16 years of operation, and the contemporary building
was constructed in its place from 1574-75. When the Swedes
invaded in 1704 the arsenal took a beating, but all holes were
patched within two years. In the 18th and 19th Centuries
the arsenal was refortified and lost some of its original form.
Most recently, two of the upper floors were restored and now
house a museum. Parts of the exterior have been excavated in
order to reveal original walls, windows and roof. The distinctive
defensive trench has been also been preserved. Throughout
its working history the arsenal served as Lvivs defensive
backbone. A smelting-house was located next to the arsenal
and cast weapons for storage and for sale. The swords forged
in Lviv gained the reputation as some of the best in Europe. In
the 18th Century the arsenal was also used as a prison. It was
here that Polish authorities imprisoned haydamaks, Ukrainian
peasant rebels resisting Polish tyranny.

Ratusha (City Hall)

C-4, pl. Rynok 1. The first


city hall was established
on Rynok ploscha (Market
Square) in the middle of the
14th Century. Constructed of
wood, it was levelled by fire in
1381. A new hall was erected in the early 15th Century.
The contemporary building
is a conglomeration of the
15th Century structure and
three major expansions. The stone tower that hovers above
the hall is the second of its kind. The original was erected in
1619, but by the beginning of the 19th Century was deemed
unstable and demolished. The 65 meter high replacement is
a replica of the original. Pace yourselves, its 306 steps up
to the viewing platform. In 2008 a local pornographer boldly
used City Halls roof as a backdrop for photos, which were
splashed all over the Internet. This embarrassment led local
authorities to implement stricter security measures including
the installation of surveillance cameras. Smile youre being
watched by a Ukrainian security cop.

www.inyourpocket.com
Lviv In Your Pocket

What to see
Chorna Kamiany tsa
(Black Stone House)

C-3, pl. Rynok 4. This


exceptional archi tectural
monument of the 16th-17th
Centuries is matchless not
only in Lviv, but in the whole
of Europe. Construction on
this alluring structure began
in 1588 and incorporated
locally mined, vibrant grey
sandstone. The imposing
black colour is a product of long-term absorption by the stone
of dust, dirt and smoke that swirled about the market (coal
was used to heat homes until the 1960s). The name Black
Stone House didnt always apply, it was previously known
as Kyiv Stone House and Doctors Stone House. In 1926
the building was bought by the city and a branch of Lvivs
historical museum was soon established.

Italiyskyi Dvoryk C-3,

pl. Rynok 6, tel. 0 322


74 33 04. This romantic
hotspot is located within
th e Kornjak t Pala c e on
Rynok pl. Lvivians, visitors
to the palaces museum
and random pedestrians
are magnetically drawn to
this open-air coffee lovers
oasis. Completely severed
from the complexities outside, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian
Renaissance. The mellow music and delectable fragrances
make for a truly special caf experience. If it all looks familiar,
youve probably seen the courtyard one of the many local and
foreign films that shot scenes here. Concerts are occasionally
staged here; the courtyard is known for its uncanny acoustic
resonance. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission
1Hr, students and senior citizen 0,5Hr.

Kornjakt Palace (King


Jan III Sobieski Palace)

C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. 0


32 274 33 04. This is a
unique monument of the
Renaissance period, one of
only a few existing in Ukraine,
and is the largest structure
on Rynok pl. Until the late
16th Century the area on
which the palace stands
was occupied by two smaller
buildings, which were purchased by a Greek merchant named
Constantine Kornjakt. He subsequently ordered the reconstruction of the two houses into a new grandiose edifice.
Fragments of the older structures have been preserved and
include the Gothic hall (an unmatched sample of Lvivs Gothic
influence) and the cross-sectional support beams that hold
the third floor ceiling. Following Kornjakts death, the house
was taken over Jakub Sobieski, the father of the future Polish
king Jan III. From this time on the house served as a royal
roost. In 1634 the residence was occupied for a short time by
Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and
seized the Russian crown.The Polish-Russian Eternal Peace
Treaty (anything with a name this lofty deserves to fail) was
signed at the palace in 1686. Since 1908 the building has
housed a museum. One of the brightest expositions of any
of the citys museums, the Royal Chambers, can be found
here. The palaces Italian Yard is a Lvivian favourite and is
not to be missed.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Ploscha Rynok (Market Square) C-3/4. Time

and space gush through old


towns veins and swirl round
Rynok ploscha: a cobbled
whirlpool of colour and sound.
With its stunning palaces,
fountains, statues, crowds,
cafs and pack of lethargic
stray dogs Rynok Square is
the heart of this magnificent
city. Throughout the Middle
Ages stone weights and balances clanked with each sale,
livestock pleaded and villains writhed in pain at the punishment
stake. Amazingly, within this relatively small area there are 45
protected architectural monuments. Each structure has its own
captivating history, but the oldest and most commonly wowedabout are Chorna Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) and Kornyakt Palace (also called King Jan III Sobieski Palace). Regardless
the era, the government has always kept a keen eye on the
square. The imposing structure in the middle is City Hall

Ruska Street C/D-4.

Ruska vul. has been an established thoroughfare since


the Middle Ages. Connecting Rynok ploscha (Market
Square) with Pidvalna vul.
(Rampart Street), the street
is so narrow that only one
street car can travel at a time.
Blending a fascinating array of
architectural styles, Ruska
is one of the most striking
streets in the old city. For centuries this remained Lvivs centre of
Orthodox Christianity. During Polish rule, this was the only street
where an Orthodox believer was allowed to own real estate. From
Ruska there was a passage to an old Jewish ghetto. Residents
constructed walls and a gate, which was secured at night in order
to protect from pogroms. If theres a building that stands out its
No. 4. Constructed in the 16th Century, an old-Austrian style caf
called Synia Pliashka sits in the court yard and the building itself
is currently occupied by the Gerdan Art Gallery.

Churches & Cathedrals


Uspenska Tserkva (Assumption Church) B-3,

Ruska 7. This vibrant example of Renaissance architecture


has served as the centre of the Orthodox Christian faith for
centuries. In the middle of the 16th Century, the Assumption
Brotherhood was founded here along with a printing press
and a school. The church has experienced many episodes of
ruin and reconstruction. The first Assumption Church was constructed of wood in 1344, but was destroyed by fire during an

lviv.inyourpocket.com

attack on Lviv by Polish feudal


lords in 1350. The second
church was built of stone in
1421 and experienced a
relatively peaceful existence
until it too was levelled by
the great fire of 1527. (With
the exception of City Hall and
one other structure, the fire
of 1527 devoured the entire
city.) The replacement was
completed in 1559 and, you
guessed it, was completely destroyed by fire in 1571. The
danger posed by fire was apparently driven home and the
cathedral constructed in 1591 has survived until the present.
Also located on the premises are Kornjakts Tower and the
Chapel of Three Prelates. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.

City tours
Chudo Tour B-4, tel. 0 32 236 70 06, www.chu-

dotour.com.ua. Chudo Traine starts every hour from


Ploscha Rynok (near the city council entrance). QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.

Kamianyi Lev B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. 0 32


245 22 20. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.

Lemberg Tour C-3, pl. Rynok 2, tel. 297 53 59,

lemberg-tour@ukr.net, www.tourinfo.lviv.ua. Lemberg Tour manages tourist information centre on Rynok


Square and provides Lviv city tours and tours around
Ukraine. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Ofit Service G-2, Ivana Ohiyenka 13, tel. 0 32 272


26 83, fax 0 32 272 26 86, info@ofit-travel.com.ua,
www.ofit-travel.com.ua. Ofit Service provides Lviv city
tours in English, Polish, German, French, Spanish and Ilalian.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Prime Excursion Bureau Kyiv, Schekavytska

30/39, suite 4, tel. 0 44 227 77 78/207 12 55/0


99 550 00 00, info@primetour.ua, www.primetour.
ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00

Wseswit B-5, F. Lista 3/3, tel./fax 032 297 05 68, wseswit@wseswit.lviv.ua, www.wseswit.lviv.ua. Wseswit
provides incoming tours to Lviv and Ukraine, reservation of
airline and railway tickets, transfer arrangements. Carpathians, health-resorts of Carpathians, Morshyn, Truskavets,
trips to Crimea, reservation of hotels and car rent are also
available. Ticket dilivery is free around Lviv. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A6UL

October - December 2009

27

28

What to see
Sobor Sviatoho Yura
(St. Geor ge Cathedral) G-3, Svyatoho Yura

pl. 5. This Greek Catholic


cathedral, constructed in
1744-1761, is a remarkable
example of Rococo architecture. Located at the height of
St. George Hill, the cathedral
dominates the surrounding
area, but doesnt clash with
the landscape. The main
faade is set-off by a portal watched over by St. Athanasius
and St. Leo (works by renowned sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel).
In the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt where celebrated
figures of the Ukrainian church are entombed. A park is nestled
behind the palace and features a distinctive bell tower, which
houses a remarkable bell. Cast in 1341, it is the oldest bell
in Ukraine. The cathedral grounds are extremely calming and
its hard to imagine that hard times once prevailed. Following
the death of metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky in March 1946,
Soviet authorities coerced church leaders to denounce Rome
and join the Russian Orthodox Church. Justice prevailed in
1989 as the Greek Catholic Church re-established itself and
resumed operation of the cathedral. The last major event to
take place at St. George happened 2001. While visiting Lviv,
Pope John Paul II lived in the Metropolitans Palace. QOpen
10:00 - 17:30.

Virmenskyi Sobor (The


Armenian Cathedral) C-

3, Virmenska 7. The history


of Lviv is a tapestry woven by
more than 100 nationalities.
Armenians began inhabiting
the city in the 14th Century
and quickly established their
own quarter complete with a
small cathedral completed in
1370. This original building
perished in the fire of 1527.
The structure that stands today blends a few architectural
styles including Old Russian, Gothic and Armenian. The original
bell tower was erected in 1571, but was later toppled by the
Turks during a siege. The 19th Century version of the bell
tower is a restoration of the original. The courtyard provides
a tranquil setting for the decorative column and figure of St.
Christopher. The neighbouring buildings are those of a former
Armenian bank, established in the 17th Century, and Lvivs
oldest pawnshop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.

The Bernardine Cathedral and Monaster y

D-5, Soborna pl. 1-3. The


Bernardine Cathedral and
Monaster y is one of the
most inspiring sites in Lviv.
The area around which the
m onas ter y s tan d s h as
evolved over the years, but
the monastery itself remains
as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin
envisioned. Constructed in
the 17th Century, the cathedrals faade is protected by statues of the sacred order of
Bernardine and the niches of the second tier hold images of
Mary, Jesus and apostles Peter and Andrew. Be respectful, of
course, but dont be afraid to drop in on a prayer session. The
cathedrals magnificent interior is stirring. Originally located
outside the city walls, the monastery had its own defences.

Lviv In Your Pocket

What to see
A section of the original protective wall remains and can be
viewed from Pidvalna vul.Much speculation exists concerning
controversial events that have taken place within the monastery and its cells. One of the more famous cases concerns
a letter missive (sanction of trade) addressed to Dracula.
QOpen 10:00 - 11:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission is free.

The Dominican Cathedral D-3, Museina pl. 1. The

foundation of the Dominican


Monastery dates back to
the second half of the 13th
Century when Constance, the
wife of Lev I of Galicia, commissioned the construction
of a small wooden church in
gratitude for the generosity
of the local Dominican monks.
Eventually destroyed by fire
in 1408, a Gothic-era stone
church was constructed in its place. The monastery, which could
accommodate more than 100 monks, experienced its heyday
beginning in 1612 when it become the central monastery of
the Eastern European Dominican Order. In 1742 cracks were
detected in the cathedrals arch. An emergency meeting was
convened and all rescue options were exhausted. Demolition
commenced in 1749. Construction on the new cathedral, designed by architect Jan de Witte, began shortly after. The bell
tower was constructed in 1865. During the Soviet era the site
was used as a regional archive and as a school for would be
printing workers. After restoration in 1972 the Dominican Monastery opened as a museum dedicated to the history of religion
and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. Religious
services have also resumed. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.

Kaplytsia Boimiv (The


Chapel of the Boim
Family)C-4, Katedralna

pl. 1, tel. 0 32 274 40 47.


Constructed in the early 17th
Century on the grounds of
what was a city cemetery;
this quaint structure was
originally intended for use as
a crypt by the Boim family.
George Boim, a Lviv merchant
and moneylender of Hungarian origin, started the project and his son, Paul-George, put the
finishing touches on what would become a permanent feature in
Lvivs stunning centre. The side of the chapel is decorated with
fretwork that gives the impression that the entire structure has
been turned inside-out. Fresco portraits of George Boim and
his wife Jadwiga can be viewed from Halytska vul. The site has
been protected by UNESCO since the 1970s. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr.

The Latin Cathedral

C-4, Katedralna pl. 1, tel.


0 32 272 56 82. This is
a spectacular example of
ancient Lvivs Gothic influence. Officially known as the
Archcathedral Basilica of the
Assumption of the Blessed
Virgin Mary, its understandable why most just call it the
Latin. Constructed in 1360,
a relic was incorporated into
the first foundation stone by King Kazimir the Great. Both the
interior and exterior have evolved throughout the centuries,

lviv.inyourpocket.com

but the sanctuary and altar have remained unchanged. The


cathedral was severely damaged in the fire of 1527. During its
restoration in the 18th Century, Baroque forms replace those
of the Gothic era. The marvellous stained glass windows were
incorporated at the end of the 19th Century. A cemetery
once existed on and around what is now Katedralna ploscha
(Cathedral Square). In 1765 all burials were relocated and
further burials forbidden. The cemeterys chapel, the Chapel
of the Boim Family, remains on the site and is a protected
historical monument. Pope John Paul II attended mass here
on June 26th, 2001. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission 2Hr.
Photography is prohibited.

The St. Peter and Paul


Church of the Jesuit
Or der B-4, Teatralna

11. Located with its back


turned to Svobody prosp.
and the monument of Taras
Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more
mystical places in Lviv. Much
like the Jesuits themselves,
the structure is meant to be
kept an enigma and random
tourists will find it difficult to gain full access. The church
was constructed in the beginning of the 17th Century and is
modelled after the classic Church of the Ges in Rome. The
size of the church is impressive: 41metres long, 26 metres
high and 22.5 metres wide. Lvivs founding Jesuits are historically characterised as aggressive missionaries who quickly
established a devout following. The sect was also known for
its savvy in the area of property development. When they first
settled in Lviv in the 16th Century they possessed absolutely
no property. When Austria ordered the abolition of the Jesuits
1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned property worth up to
one million thalers (big bucks for that time). A section of the
premises is currently occupied by the Lviv Scientific Library
and is used as an archive. QExcursions starts every hour
from 13:00 until 18:00 and can be ordered in Ravlyk Salon
(Svobody prosp. 15, tel. 298 25 95). Exhibition admission 3Hr,
students 2Hr. Underground excursion 9Hr, students 7Hr.

History in Stone

Arriving in a city for the first time, most sane travellers dont
head straight for the local cemetery. But Lviv is unique in
many ways, and one of the citys most distinctive, beautiful
and historic locales is the Lychakivske Cemetery. Believe it
or not, this is an ideal location to begin your exploration of
Lvivs diverse history, fascinating culture and stunning art:
what Pre Lachaise is to Paris, Lychakivske is to Lviv.
Officially established in 1786 by Austro-Hungarian authorities, the first burials actually took place in the 16th Century.
Since then, more than 400,000 inhabitants have been laid
to rest beneath these hallowed and enigmatic grounds.
Grave markers hold mournful tributes inscribed in Ukrainian,
Russian, German, Polish, Armenian and Latin - evidence
of the citys diversity and turbulent past. Throughout the
19th Century, plots were reserved by elite and middleclass
families, artisans, scientists, spiritual leaders and politicians. For obvious reasons, this trend shifted during the
Soviet era, and resulted in a fascinating contrast: wedged
between ancient chapels and elite family crypts stand
simple monuments, tributes to departed communists.

Museums
Brewing Museum G-1, Kleparivska 18, tel. 0 32 294 80
65. In recognition of the 290th anniversary of one of Europes
oldest breweries, the Brewing Museum was opened to the public in 2005. Six-hundred square metres of the brewerys historic
premises were specially renovated in order to host this unique
museum. The collection contains a plethora of exceptional
beer utensils and brewing hardware that represent various
epochs. Admission includes a trip to the tasting hall: a titillating
bonus for all fans of Lvivske () beer. Excursions are
available in Polish, Russian and Ukrainian, and descriptions
in English under each exhibit make it enjoyable for the rest.
QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 15Hr.

Johann Pinzel Museum D-5, Mytna pl. 2, tel. 0 322

75 69 66. This museum presents 32 sculptures of the


world-renown 18th Century Lvivian sculptor Johann Georg
Pinzel. Often referred to as Ukrainians Michelangelo the
beauty and mastery of his work justifies this distinction.
Little is known about the sculptors life and controversy
continues to hover around his identity, but doesnt that
make his art all the more alluring? If youve decided that you
dont have time to visit a museum while in Lviv: skip lunch,
head to Mytna pl. and discover the essence of Ukrainian art.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Communal graves of soldiers and freedom fighters can


also be found. The most renowned is the grave of the
Lww Eaglets. The Eaglets were Polish child soldiers who
defended Lviv during the Polish-Ukrainian War (19181919). Lviv was ultimately seized by the Soviet Union in
1939; the grave was desecrated and turned into a dump
in 1971. Despite opposition by Ukrainian nationalists, the
site was restored and reopened in 2005.
Lychakivske is a protected historical monument. This is a
much deserved designation, as it rivals many of Europes
ancient necropolises in not only size, but in the beauty of
its sculptures. Visitors are often stopped in their tracks by
the remarkable statue of an angle gazing sadly towards
heaven. Grief, strength and sacrifice are the dominant
themes represented in these gripping monuments. Plan
on spending at least a few hours if you hope to see them
all, and for those with time limitations the sculptures
located at the graves of Armenian Archbishop Samuel
Stefanowicz, Dr. Jzef Torosewicz and actress Regina
Markovsky (Sleeping Beauty) are not to be missed.

October - December 2009

29

30

What to see
Lviv Art Gallery A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. 0 32 261 46 47.
With 24 halls and more than 400 works from leading French,
Italian, Austrian, German, Russian, Polish and Ukrainian
masters, this is the largest and arguably finest art museum
in Ukraine. The collection of Polish art is unmatched outside
of Poland. Pieces in this collection date from the 16th to
20th Centuries and include impressive works by leading
19th Century masters Artur Grottger and Jan Matejko.
The pride of the museum, two world art masterpieces, is
Georges de La Tours Payment of Dues and Tiziano Vecellios Portrait of a Man. The halls on the first floor regularly
host thematic exhibitions. Last entrance one hour before
close. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10Hr.

Lviv History Museum C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. 0 322 74

33 04, www.lhm.lviv.ua/eng. Founded in 1893, this is one


of Lvivs oldest museums. Originally located in a chamber of
City Hall, the contemporary museum is spread out among
four unique architectural monuments dating from the 16th18th Centuries. The collection is composed of more than
330 thousand exhibits that offer fascinating snapshots into
the lives of those who inhabited Lviv from ancient times
up to the present. The main branch can be found at Rynok
ploscha (Market Square) in the Kornjakt Palace. During the
17th Century the palace served as a royal roost for Jakub
Sobieski, the father of Polish king Jan III, and Wladyslaw IV,
the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the
Russian crown. The collections highlights include ancient
furniture, pictures, silver ornaments and the Royal Chambers.
The museums second and third branches are also located
on the square in buildings 4 and 24. The fourth branch is
located at the Arsenal on Pidvalna vul. 5 and is dedicated to
the regions history of weaponry. Excursions in English can
be difficult to rustle up, but most of the exhibits speak for
themselves. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission
8Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr

Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics C-1, Uzhgorodska

pl. 1, tel. 0 322 72 28 86. Its appropriate that this


museum of ancient relics is located in one of Lvivs most
ancient churches. St. John the Baptist Church was originally
built in 1250, a time of profound transition and growth in
the newly established capital of Galicia. Though it has been
reconstructed numerous times, an antique feel prevails. The
museum opened in 1993 as a branch of the Lviv Art Gallery.
Artistic works, sacral relics and archaeological findings tell
the enthralling story of ancient life in the region. Dated to
the second half of the 14th Century, the collections Lviv
Virgin and Child is one of the oldest existing Ukrainian icons.
QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts B-4, Svo-

body prosp. 15 (pl. Rynok 10), tel. 0 322 272 78 08.


Known for its unique collection of Ukrainian cultural artefacts,
this celebrated museum houses more than 83 thousand
items. The stunning rugs and tapestries, delicate wooden
crafts and ancient musical instruments provide vivid frames
into the lives of the regions past inhabitants. The clock
exhibit is the largest and most valuable in Ukraine, but its
the vibrant assortment of embroidered national attire that
really stands out and tends to bring touring groups to a sudden halt. The collection of jewellery is also impressive and
features a remarkable silver episcopal baton dated to the
11th-13th Centuries. The main exposition is located within
the former premise of a Galician-era bank. A second branch
featuring fabrics, porcelain, Dutch wares and furniture from
the Renaissance to the beginning of the 20th Century is
located at Rynok pl. 10. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 5Hr, children 2Hr.

Lviv In Your Pocket

What to see

Museum of Historical Valuables C-3, pl. Rynok 2,

tel. 0 322 72 06 71. This museum recently opened in 2005


following the restoration of the enthralling Bandinelli Palace.
The current exhibitions constitute only part of what will be a
much larger display and include a stunning display of gold and
silver jewellery, pottery and miscellaneous civic articles. The
building itself casts a shadow over the exhibit; to stroll the
newly renovated palace halls is worth the meagre charge of
admission. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission
3Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr.

National Museum B-3, Svobody prosp. 20, tel. 0 32 272

80 63. The National Museum was originally established in 1905


as a private collection for the church by metropolitan Andrei
Sheptytsky. It was later transferred to the city in 1913. Throughout its more than 100 years of existence an extraordinary 130
thousand exhibits have been collected. The museums pride is
also Ukraines largest display of Ukrainian sacral art, which dates
from the 12th-18th Centuries. Icons, sculptures, manuscripts
and decorative carvings immortalize Ukraines religious past.
The museums branch located at Drahomanova 42 houses a
collection of Ukrainian modern art. Most notable are the paintings
of renowned 20th Century Ukrainian masters. Tours are available
in English, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 17Hr, students 6.50Hr.

The Ancient World and the Middle Ages C-4, pl.

Rynok 24, tel. 0 322 72 08 74. The building that houses


this branch of the Lviv History Museum is a fabulous example
of 16th Century Renaissance architecture. The collection
spotlights the history of Western Ukraine from ancient times
to the Middle Ages and includes introductions to Lvivs foundation in the 13th Century by King Danylo Halytsky and the plight
of western Ukrainians under the rule of controversial hetman
Bohdan Khmelnytskyi. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed.
Admission 3Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr.

The Pharmacy Museum Pid Chornym Orlom C-3,

Drukarska 2, tel. 0 32 235 70 41. If you havent noticed by


now, Ukrainians love pharmaceuticals. Theres a drug store
on practically every corner of every city! The foundation of a
museum dedicated to the apothecary is very fitting. The Pharmacy Museum is located in a drugstore established in 1735 by
a military pharmacist. The drugstore remains in operation and
continues to mix its signature Iron wine used to treat anaemia.
This distinctive angular house on the corner of Drukarska
and Stavropihiyska hosts an exposition of more than 3,000
articles. The most curious of which are the pharmaceutical
scales located in the opening hall. The second hall was originally
used as a stockroom and currently displays pharmaceutical
instruments from a variety of epochs. Within the third hall youll
discover an ancient laboratory that was reproduced on the basis
of pictures and engravings. An apartment house belonging to
one of Lvivs 16th Century petty bourgeois has been reconstructed in the internal court yard. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission 5Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr.

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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

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PRAGUE
December 2008 - January 2009

Aug - Sep 2007

Uupis

A brief sojourn inside Vilnius


distinctly eccentric
independent republic

Better by
design

Stunning souvenirs,
stylish shopping and
local crafts on display

Vingio Parkas

From Tolstoy to rollerblades,


the citys favourite park is
pulled apart and examined

The Great
Outdoors

Feel the burn, catch the


waves, take a hike

Gastro Tourism
Northern Ireland on a
plate

After the Battle


Warsaw Uprising 70
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The Mouth of
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The Weapon Museum Arsenal D-4, Pidvalna 5,

tel. 0 32 235 86 61. Establishing a weapons museum at


the Arsenal was a no-brainer for city planners. Its a brisk
walk up the hill, but the fascinating array of swords, daggers, spears, lances, fire-arms, armour and other military
equipment make the climb well worth it. The collage of
locally crafted weapons and armour really stirs the imagination. The museum has also acquired samples of ancient
weapons from around the world. Chronologically organised
by weapon type, youll have no problems finding your own
way around and your whacky uncle will definitely spring at
the chance to be photographed in authentic knights armour.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 8Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

lviv.inyourpocket.com

October - December 2009

31

Mail & PhoNes

32

Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so


often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive
at its intended destination. The post office remains a
throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by
the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you.

Express mail
DHL E-3, Chernivetska 9, tel. 0 32 242 64 00, fax 0 32
242 64 01, www.dhl.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
FedEx Naukova 5A, office 215, tel. 0 32 298 16 05,
www.fedex.com. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.

TNT Bohdana Khmelnytskoho 212, corp. 2, tel. 0 32


242 02 50, www.tnt.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
UPS Horodotska 205, tel. 0 32 238 43 55/297 07
48, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. A

Comparative rates for sending a package


maximum 500g.
Frankfurt
London
DHL
330Hr
330Hr
TNT
353Hr
353Hr
FedEx
240Hr
240Hr
UPS
382Hr
382Hr

weighing a
New York
330Hr
403Hr
245Hr
400Hr

Airline ticket offices

There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Lviv


- direct numbers (which do not differ from the Lviv fixed line
numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers
(these should be preceded by 0 and the operators code).
SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone
calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You
do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to
use the local providers service. SIM cards are available in
special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on
the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at
these same locations.

Aerosvit Lubynska 168, Lviv International Airport, tel.

Beeline I-5, Ivana Franka 78, tel. 0 32 244 44 10,


wwwbeeline.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00.

Kyivstar C-4, Valova 11, tel. 0 32 240 88 88/290 11


90, www.kyivstar.net. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.

Closed Sun.

Postal rates
Letters (<20g)
1,50Hr
3,85Hr
5,39Hr

Postcards
1,50Hr
3,85Hr
5,39Hr

Public internet access


Maximum C-5, Kniazia Romana 2, tel. 0 32 235 29 51.
Also at Melnyka 18. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 4-8Hr per hour.
Pozitiff I-4, Zelena 14, tel. 0 32 294 90 51. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00.

Chorna Medeya H-3, Petra Doroshenka 50, tel. 0 32


261 02 50. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 6-9Hr per hour.

Roaming
To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine dial 38 followed by the
city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone,
use the operators code instead of a city code.

The Lviv
telephone code is +380 32 (or 322)

Airports
Lviv International Airport Lubynska 168, tel. 0 32 229

MTS C-6, Tarasa Shevchenka prosp. 24, tel. 0 32 240


00 00, www.mts.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat

Car rental

10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

UTEL C-5, Halytska pl. 7, tel. 800 500 11 88, www.


utel.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00.

Fixed line telephone

Central Post Office A-5, Slovatskoho 1, tel. 0 32 261


53 21, www.ukrposhta.com. Q Open 08:30 - 17:30.

0 322 29 80 24, lviv@aerosvit.com, www.aerosvit.com.


QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lunch time 13:00-14:00.
Austrian Airlines Lubynska 168, Lviv International
Airport, tel./fax 0 32 297 60 90, tel. 0 32 297 62 91,
www.aua.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Carpatair Lubynska 168, Lviv International Airport, tel.
0 32 297 62 66/229 81 57, lviv@carpatair.com, www.
carpatair.com. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Lunch
break 12:00 - 13:00.
LOT Polish Airlines A-4, Sichovych Striltsiv 5, tel. 0 32
297 11 55/297 50 57, www.lot.com. Also at Lviv International Airport (open 11:30 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 15:30), tel.
69 29 85. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Ukraine International Airlines Lubynska 168, Lviv
International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. 0 322 98 69 77,
sale@avia.lviv.ua, www.flyuia.com.

11:00 - 17:00.

Using a telephone

Post

Lviv In Your Pocket

Mobile phones

Life B-4, Svobody prosp. 6/8, tel. 0 32 272 69 46, www.


life.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun

Express mail rates

Within Ukraine
Abroad

gettiNg aroUND

To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a


long-distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and
then dial the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another
town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Lvivs city code (32) and
then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait
for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city code
and number itself.
Ukrainian city codes
Cherkasy
47
Kirovohrad 52
Rivne
36
Chernihiv
46
Kyiv
44
Sevastopol 69
Chernivtsi
37
Kyiv Region 45
Simferopol 65
Dnipropetrovsk 56
Luhansk 64
Sumy
54
Donetsk
62
Lutsk
33
Ternopil
35
Ivano-Frankivsk 34
Lviv
32
Uzhhorod 31
Kharkiv
57
Mykolaiv 51
Vinnitsa
43
Kherson
55
Odesa
48
Zaporizhya 61
Khmelnytsky 38
Poltava
53
Zhytoymyr 41
The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an
0 if dialing from another Ukrainian town.
International country codes
Australia
61
Germany 49 Poland
48
Austria
43
Greece
30 Romania 40
Belgium
32
Hungary
36 Russia
7
Bulgaria
359 Ireland
353 Spain
34
Canada
1
Israel
972 Sweden 46
Czech Rep.
420 Italy
39 Turkey
90
Denmark
45
Japan
81 Ukraine
380
Finland
358 Moldova 373 UK
44
France
33
Netherlands 31 USA
1
The above International country codes should be prefixed
with 0-0 if dialing from inside Ukraine.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

81 12, www.airport.lviv.ua. Lost & Found tel. 229 83 19.

Avis Lubynska 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. 0

32 220 18 38, lviv@avis.com.ua, www.avis.com.ua.


Also at Pidstryhacha 6, tel. 0 32 297 05 10. QOpen 06:00
- 24:00. AUL
Europcar Lypynskoho 36, tel. 0 32 294 89 94, lviv@
autodrive.com.ua, w w w.europcar.ua. Also at Lvi v
International Airport, tel. 0 32 229 87 87. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00. A
Hertz Rent a Car Lubynska 13B, tel. 0 32 297 00 52,
lviv@hertz.ua, www.hertz.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. PAL
Sixt rent a car Lubynska 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. 0 32 237 18 17, www.sixt.ua. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AL

Long-distance Buses
Stryiskyi Avtovokzal Stryiska 109, tel. 0 32 294 98
17. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Trains
Lviv Holovnyi Train Station F-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel.
0 32 748 20 68.

Taxis
In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your
arm out on any street if you dont believe us. Metered
taxis dont exist, so youll have to haggle over the price
with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in
getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount
before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having
bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help
you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed.
Express tel. 0 32 221 65 65
Radio Taxi tel. 0 32 240 44 55
Vashe Taxi tel. 0 32 243 82 43
Virazh tel. 0 32 233 81 14

lviv.inyourpocket.com

International train schedule


From Lviv
City
To Lviv
Dep. Arr.
Dep. Arr.
15:23 08:21
14:36
05:47
ADLER
(on odd days)
(on even days)
17:05 22:32
(5) BAKU (2)
22:45 05:37
09:53 20:43
(1-7) BELGRADE (1-7) 07:30 10:31
01:08 09:09
(7) BERLIN (6)
21:13 22:55
10:26 05:08 (2,3,5,6,7) BRATISLAVA 14:10 10:31
(1,2,4,5,7)
21:20 11:17
(1-7) BUDAPEST (1-7) 18:43 10:31
23:35 19:30 (4,6) BUHAREST (1,6) 06:26 08:04
until September 5
23:35 19:30 (1,4,6) BUCHAREST (1,3,6) 06:26 08:04
from September 5
07:19 15:38
( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 13:41 23:44
23:59 05:25
( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 22:39 06:03
19:00 09:00
15:49 04:54
MINSK
(on even days)
(on odd days)
08:37 09:10
(1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 15:46 13:57
04:20 04:52
(1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 21:20 00:10
10:57 09:56
(1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 22:13 20:52
07:19 06:54
(1-7) PRAGUE (1-7)
21:09 23:43
07:19 09:26
(1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7) 19:24 23:44
23:35 06:00
(1,4,6) SOFIA (1,3,6) 19:30 08:04
23:12 05:25 (1-7) ST.-PETERSBURG 12:45 15:19
(1-7)
07:19 20:45
(1-7) WARSAW (1-7) 07:15 23:44
23:59 10:26
(1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 17:35 06:03
07:19 20:25
(1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 08:35 23:44
10:26 06:58
(2,3,5,6,7) VIENNA
12:28 10:31
(1,2,4,5,7)
21:20 07:16
(7) VENICE (3)
21:20 10:31

Domestic train schedule


From Lviv
City
To Lviv
Dep. Arr.
Dep. Arr.
20:10 13:04
(1-7) CHERNIHIV (1-7) 20:52 10:13
16:45 23:00 (1-7) CHERNIVTSI (1-7) 07:35 12:59
10:26 15:47
(1-7) CHOP (1-7)
20:26 02:23
07:00 12:45 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK 13:30 08:20
(1-7)
16:23 16:50
13:49 14:33
DONETSK
(on even days)
(on odd days)
04:17 07:02 (1-7) IVANO-FRANKIVSK 18:15 21:05
(1-7)
17:05 11:45
(1-7) KHARKIV (1-7)
19:11 14:45
14:39 10:15
(1-7) KHERSON (1-7) 16:33 12:08
06:35 13:00
(1-7, ex 2) KYIV (2-7) 17:05 23:29
22:47 07:26
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
22:15 06:33
20:10 06:13
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
08:56 17:58
19:27 10:34
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
16:04 06:43
08:37 18:27
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
18:46 04:24
01:08 04:14
(1-7) LUHANSK (1-7) 17:47 21:08
19:34 07:50
(1-7) ODESA (1-7)
19:00 07:10
09:36 12:20
(ex. 3) RIVNE (ex. 3)
09:44 09:50 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 13:12 14:09
14:52 21:02
(1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 04:49 11:40
21:20 04:03 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 01:35 10:31
04:50 11:19
(1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 15:54 23:00
15:33 15:47 (1-7) ZAPORIZHZHIA (1-7) 11:50 11:52

October - December 2009

33

34

BUsiNess DireCtorY

gettiNg aroUND
Accountants & Consulting

Domestic flight schedule


From Lviv
Days
Dep.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:20
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00

Arr.
11:35
19:15
21:30
08:00

City
KYIV (VV)
KYIV (VV)
KYIV (VV)
KYIV (PS)

To Lviv
Days
Dep.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00
1 2 3 4 5 67 08:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:20

European Business Association G-4, Stepana


Arr.
09:20
15:20
09:05
21:30

Bandery 6, office 3, tel. 0 32 261 29 28, fax 0 32 261


22 68, lviv@eba.com.ua, www.eba.com.ua.

J&L Consulting H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 11, tel. 0 32


297 05 97, fax 0 32 297 05 95, j-l@j-l.com.ua, www.
j-l.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PricewaterhouseCoopers E-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel. 0


32 242 53 05, pwc.ukraine@ua.pwc.com, www.pwc.
com/ua.

International flight schedule


From Lviv
Days
Dep.
6 10:30
1 5 18:15
2 5 16:00
4 7 15:40
1 4 13:00
1 10:40
7 16:30
1 3 5 7 13:30
1 2 4 5 07:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:55
7 09:10
6 12:40
2 5 08:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 06:45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15
1 3 5 18:25
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40

Arr.
13:30
19:10
17:00
17:35
15:00
13:45
17:55
16:20
09:05
15:10
11:20
14:05
09:30
08:00
16:45
19:45
16:00

City
ATHENS (5V)
DORTMUND (W)
FRANKFURT (PS)
ISTANBUL (TK)
ISTANBUL (7W)
MADRID (PS)
MILAN (PS)
MOSCOW Vnukovo (UT)
MOSCOW Domodedovo (7W)
MUNICH (LH)
NAPLES (PS)
NAPLES (VV)
ROME (PS)
TIMISOARA (V3)
VIENNA (OS)
WARSAW (LO)
WARSAW (LO)

To Lviv
Days
Dep.
7 11:40
1 5 14:50
2 5 11:10
4 7 12:35
1 4 16:00
1 14:50
7 19:00
1 3 5 7 09:55
1 2 4 5 09:50
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:25
7 16:45
6 15:10
2 5 10:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 15:25
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:15
1 3 5 16:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:25

Arr.
14:10
17:45
14:10
14:40
18:00
19:20
22:25
12:40
11:50
12:15
19:00
18:25
13:45
16:35
15:35
17:35
13:45

Airline Codes: LO LOT Polish Airlines, LH Lufthansa Airlines, OS Austrian Airlines, PS Ukrainian International Airlines,
7W Wind Rose, TK Turkish Airlines, UT UTair, V3 Carpatair, VV AeroSvit, W Wizz Air, 5V - Lviv Airlines.

Banks
Erstebank B-4, Svobody prosp. 5, tel. 0 32 298 90
86, www.erstebank.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.

Prominvestbank B-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 2, tel. 0 32


272 79 75, www.pib.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Raiffeisen Bank Aval A-5, Kopernyka 14, tel. 0 32 297


06 75, www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.

Ukreximbank B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 4, tel. 0 32 297 01


77, www.eximb.com/eng. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Ukrsotsbank B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 10, tel. 0 32 244

05 01/244 05 58, w w w.usb.com.ua/en. Evening


cashiers office until 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.

Lawyers

Georgia B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. 0 322 97 40 98/59

Arzinger G-4, Henerala Chuprynky 6, tel. 0 32 242 96


96, mail@arzinger.ua, www.arzinger.ua. QOpen 09:00

Germany D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6, tel. 0 32 275

- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

71 02, fax 0 32 276 28 40.

J&L Consulting H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 11, tel. 0 32

Hungary Kniagyni Olhy 116, tel. 0 322 64 58 22/64

297 05 97, fax 0 32 297 05 95, j-l@j-l.com.ua, www.


j-l.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

56 22, fax 64 15 23.

Lviv Regional Laweyrs Bar D-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6/8, tel. 0 32 272 16 24. Q Open 09:00

Kazakhstan G-2, Yakova Rapoporta 6, tel. 0 322 25

- 18:00.

Soldatenko, Lukashyk & Partners C-3, Virmenska


18/18, tel. 0 32 272 26 42, www.slp.com.ua. QOpen

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Foreign representations
Austria C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 26, tel. 0 322 61 20
14.

Belarus E-3, Gorskoii 2, tel. 0 322 37 27 30/99 24


60, fax 99 24 60.

Brazil E-2, Cholovskoho 2, tel. 0 322 97 11 51/97 65


08, fax 0 32 97 11 77.

Canada D-5, Akademika Bohomoltsya 2, ap.4, tel. 0 32


297 17 72, fax 0 32 260 11 54.

Czech Republic B-4, Antonovycha 130, tel. 0 32 297


68 93/297 68 94, fax 0 32 297 68 96.

Lviv In Your Pocket

lviv.inyourpocket.com

32 32, fax 76 94 84.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Italy C-6, Johara Dudayeva 2, tel. 0 322 72 27 56.


57 67.

Lithuania H-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel./fax 0 32 298 89 35.


Mexico D-6, Akademika Bohomoltsya 15, tel. 0 322
75 95 95, fax 0 322 25 77 56.

Netherlands G-5, Akademika Sakharova 42, tel. 0 32


297 19 06.

Poland I-5, Ivana Franka 110, tel. 0 322 97 08 61/97


08 62.

Russia K-4, Levytskoho 95, tel. 0 32 275 24 63/275


05 77.

Officials
City Council C-4, pl. Rynok 1, tel. 0 32 254 60 06, fax
0 32 274 40 85, www.city-adm.lviv.ua.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs D-4, Volodymyra Vyn-

nychenka 18, office 118-119, tel. 0 32 235 64 78/98


62 55, www.mfa.gov.ua/mfa/en.

October - December 2009

35

36

shoPPiNg
Antiques
AntiqUA D-4, Valova 25, tel. 0 32 242 04 23/0 67 948
48 97. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Arsenal Salon D-4, Pidvalna 5, tel. 0 32 275 30 55.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Art Vernisazh B-2, Teatralna 23A, tel. 0 322 72 00
54. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Gothic Hall C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. 0 32 272 60 91.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Military Collectioner C-4, Staroyevreiska 8, tel. 0 32
235 45 22. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Stara Kramnychka C-3, Virmenska 18, tel. 0 32 297
51 57. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Books
Globus C-5, Halytska pl. 12, tel. 0 32 274 01 77.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
NTSh C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 6, tel. 0 32 279 85 80.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
The Book House B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 8, tel. 0 32 274
41 64. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Ukrainska Knyharnia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 8, tel.
0 32 272 16 30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Fashion
Adidas B-5, Chaikovskoho 5, tel. 0 32 297 91 61.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A
Arber A-1, Viacheslava Chernovola prosp. 9, tel. 0 32 297
53 27, www.arber.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
Colins C-4, Katedralna pl. 3, tel. 0 32 235 67 88.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
Motor B-4, Svobody prosp. 5, tel. 0 32 272 35 45.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. A
Reserved A-2, Shpytalna 1, tel. 0 32 294 91 83.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
United Colors of Beneton A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 9,
tel. 0 32 297 51 22. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A

Flowers
Bohemia Fleur A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. 0 32 272 07
91. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Dimos Flowers B-3, Lesi Ukrainky 19, tel. 0 32 297 52
45, www.dimos-flowers.com/en. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

Flower Waltz I-5, Oleksandra Arkhypenka 28, tel. 0 32


276 83 30, www.flowers-waltz.com.ua. QOpen 09:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A

Gifts & Souvenirs

lifestYle DireCtorY
Secunda B-4, Petra Doroshenka 1, tel. 0 32 297 19 87.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A

24-hour pharmacies

Fitness clubs

S.T. Dupont Paris A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. 0 32

Apteka #12 G-3, Ivana Ohiyenka 5, tel. 0 32 274 85


35. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Ellada F-4, Melnyka 18, tel. 0 32 298 16 62. QOpen

Tsikava Kramnychka A-6, Stefanyka 15, tel. 0 32 261


00 01. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Apteka #2 A-3, Tyktora 3, tel. 0 32 272 50 48. QOpen

Eurosport I-4, Yevgena Petrushevycha 1, tel. 0 32 276


33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. C

Jewellery

D.S. C-4, Halytska 19, tel. 0 32 274 20 06. QOpen


00:00 - 24:00.

Amphora C-5, Kniazia Romana 6, tel. 0 32 225 52 67.


QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. 0 32 297


40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

Tico C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 3, tel. 0 32 272 50 87.


QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

272 06 05.

Diamant B-4, Katedralna pl. 8, tel. 0 32 272 45 22.


Firmovyi Magazyn I-4, Shota Rustaveli 4, tel. 0 32
275 08 74. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.

Aphrodita J-3, Lychakivska 45, tel. 0 32 275 50 49.


QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Kleopatra B-2, Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 28,


0 32 272 09 80. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00

Elite D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 4, tel. 0 32 275 68


92. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

- 18:00.

Kids
Antoshka B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 5, tel. 0 32 298 60 67.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
Orchestra J-4, Dorosha 10, tel. 0 32 255 00 99.
Pelikan Horodotska 168, tel. 0 32 244 19 19.

Perfume & Beauty


Brocard A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. 0 322 72 28 55.
Also at Svobody prosp. 35, tel. 260 13 57. QOpen 10:00
- 22:00. A

Cosmo A-3, Svobody prosp. 47, tel. 0 32 272 85 73.


Also at B-5, Voronoho 2, tel. 272 66 83. QOpen 08:00
- 21:00. A

Eden B-3, Korniakta 1, tel. 0 32 274 10 69. QOpen


10:30 - 20:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Legrand B-5, Kopernyka 7/1, tel. 0 32 261 61 70.


QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Billiard & Bowling

K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevskoho 27/2, tel. 0 32 237 30 20.


QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Berkli K-5, Kerchenska 15A, tel. 0 32 276 14 69.


QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 30-36Hr per hour.

Swimming pools

Billiard Centre G-1, Kleparivska 30, tel. 0 32 233 32


94. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 30-40Hr. VIP hall - 60Hr.

Aquapark Kniagyni Olhy 114, tel. 0 32 263 60 55.


QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 20-40Hr.

Classic E-4, Turgeneva 80, tel. 0 32 238 13 98. QOpen

Dynamo G-4, Vitovskoho 53, tel. 0 32 238 64 16.


Q06:00 - 08:15, 13:30 - 15:00, 19:15 - 21:30. 25Hr per hour.

Mi 100 Naukova 7, tel. 0 32 244 71 96. QOpen 00:00


- 24:00. 90-165Hr. TA

Eurosport I-4, Yevgena Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. 0 32


276 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 70Hr per hour.

Ostrava Bowling E-5, Yevgena Konovaltsya 103, tel. 0


32 295 38 86. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 60-120Hr per hour.

Children - 40Hr.

14:00 - 04:00. 45Hr per hour.

Dentists

Europhoto A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 5, tel. 0 32 272


85 45. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun

K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevskoho 27/2, tel. 0 32 237 30 20.


QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Shopping Malls
Na Rynku C-3, pl. Rynok 32, tel. 0 32 272 09 30.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Prostir Medical Centre A-3, Svobody prosp. 33, tel. 0


32 242 15 90, www.prostir.lviv.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 19:0,

Ortadent Assistance G-3, Zamknena 6, tel. 0 32 297


07 47. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.

Arta C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 25, tel. 0 32 279 74 96.

Lviv In Your Pocket

- 13:00. Closed Sun.

- 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A

- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A

Skrynya E-3, Horodotska 179, tel. 0 32 298 94 50.


QOpen 10:00: - 20:00. AL
lviv.inyourpocket.com

Lviv Regional Diagnostic Centre K-3, Pekarska 69B,


tel. 0 32 275 49 90. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Victoria C-3, Danyla Halytskoho pl. 3/1A, tel. 0 32


297 56 19. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00,

Lviv Regional State Dental Clinic K-3, Pekarska 69A,


tel. 0 32 275 55 61. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Photonova A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. 0 32 272 70


08. Also at B-3, Shevska 1, tel. 297 56 57. QOpen 09:00

09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Amator B-4, Svobody prosp. 1/3, tel. 0 32 272 78 29.


QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A

11:00 - 18:00. A

Intersono E-5, Antonovycha 102, tel. 0 32 237 69


92, www.intersono.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Mon

Medical F-3, Horodotska 85/227, tel. 0 32 240 37 67,


www.medikal.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00

ABM-Vitadent I-4, Skelna 1/9, tel. 0 32 260 23 57.


QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Baransky Photostudio C-5, Kniazia Romana 12/14,


tel. 0 32 276 98 40. Also at I-4, Zelena 2. QOpen 09:00

Private clinics

Lel C-3, Drukarska 4, tel. 0 32 297 56 36. QOpen 09:00

Photography

Alfa Omega H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 18, tel. 0 32 272

Bila Skelia I-4, Skelna 1, tel. 0 32 275 79 80. QOpen

Beauty salons

Closed Sun.

Magnus A-2, Shpytalna 1, tel. 0 32 244 42 65, www.


magnus-store.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL

66 33.

00:00 - 24:00.

09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Dry cleaners
Eurochystka A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 17, www.

Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. 0


32 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. 80Hr per hour.

Tennis
Dynamo Yaneva 10, tel. 0 32 263 24 20. QOpen 07:30
- 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L

Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. 0 32 276 33


28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. 60Hr per
hour. AL

Ukraina F-4, Melnyka 18, tel. 0 32 237 73 32. QOpen


07:30 - 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L

Translators & Language courses


International House K-5, Zelena 109, tel. 0 32 225 51
90, www.ihlviv.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

eurochistka.com.ua. Also at I-4, Ivana Franka 61, tel. 0


32 276 27 79; A-4 ,Hnatiuka 6. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Language Fast D-6, Levytskoho 3/1, tel. 0 32 275 16


19. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Chysto A-4, Petra Doroshenka 15, tel. 0 32 298 94 74.


QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Franka 33, office 4, tel. 0 32 243 69 16, cim-lider@ukr.


net, www.lider.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.

1 = 11.68Hr; US$1 = 8.01Hr


(27 September 2009 official rates)
lviv.inyourpocket.com

Lider - Centre of Foreign Languages I-4, Ivana

Runa Agency of Foreign Languages B-5, Chaiko-

vskoho 12/12, tel. 0 32 298 69 69, www.runa.org.ua.


QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

October - December 2009

37

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Stara
B-2, H-2
Staroyevreiska C/D-4, I-3
Stavropihiyska
C-3, I-2
Staroznesenska
K-1
Staryi Rynok pl.
B-2, I-2
Starytskoho
F-4
Stepana Bandery F-3/4, G-4
Stefanyka A-5/6, B-6, H-3/4
Stetska
C-6, I-4
Storozhenka
E-2
Strimka
I-1
Stryiska
G/I-5
Studentska
J/K-5
Sviatoho Yura pl.
G-3
Svobody prosp.
H-2/3
Sydora Holubovycha
F-3
Tamanska
H-2
Tatarska
H/I-1
Teatralna
B-2/4, H-2, I-3
Tekhnichna
G-3
Tershakivtsiv
J-3/4
Teslenka
H-1
Tobilevycha
F-4
Tomashivskoho
B-6, H-3
Torhova pl.
A-2, H-2
Tsekhova
H-1
Tugan-Baranovskoho J-3/4
Turetska
H-5
Turianskoho
F-1
Tutunnykiv
I-5
Tykha
B-5, H-3
Tyktora
A-3, H-2
Ulasa Samchuka
I-5
Universytetska
H-3
Ustyianovycha
G-3
Uzhhorodska
C/D-1, I-2
Vagova
A-2, H-2
Valova
C/D-4, I-3
Vasylevycha
J-4
Vasylkivskoho
E-4
Venetsianova
H-4
Verkhatskoho
J-3
Vernyhory
F-2/3
Vesela
B-1, H-1/2
Veteraniv
G-1
Viacheslava Chornovola prosp.

A-1/2, H-1/2
Vicheva
C-2, I-2
Vicheva pl.
B-3, H-2
Virmenska
B/C-3, H/I-2
Vodohinna
J-5
Volodymyra Antonovycha

E-4/5, F-4
Volodymyra Ivasuka J-4/5
Volodymyra Korolenka J-2/3
Volodymyra Vynnychenka

D-2/5, I-2/3
Voloschaka
H/I-5
Voloshyna
C-6, I-3/4
Voloska
I-5
Vuzka
J-3
Viytovycha
F-3
Vyshenskoho
K-3
Vyshyvanoho pl.
I-5
Vysokyi Zamok
D-1, I/J-2
Yakova Rappoporta
G-2
Yaponska
F-4
Yaroslava Mudroho
F-2/3
Yaroslava Prstaka
G-2
Yasna
E-2
Shevska
B-3, I-2
Yeroshenka
E/F-1
Yeroshenka
G-1
Yevgena Konovaltsya

E-4/5, F-4
Yevgena Petrushevycha I-4
Zakharievycha
F-4
Zaklynskyh
K-1
Zaliznychna
E-2/3
Zamarstynivska
B-1, H-1
Zamknena
G-3
Zamkova
C/D-1, D-2, I-1
Zankovetskoi
J-3
Zarytskyh
H/I-5
Zdorovjia
F-4
Zelena
I/J-4, J/K-5
Zernova
A-2, H-2
Zhovkivska
I-1
Zhukovskoho
F-4
Zhyzhky
B-2/3, H/I-2
Zolota
F-1, G-2
Zvenyhorodska pl. B-2, I-2

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4MP

Lviv In Your Pocket

Henerala Hryhorenka pl. H-2


Henerala Hrytsaia
J/K-5
Henerala Tarnavskoho

J-4/5, I-5
Henerala Yunakieva E-1/2
Henerala Zasiadka
G-5
Heroiv UPA
E/F-4
Hertsena
C-6, I-4
Hlibova
H-4
Hlyboka
F/G-4
Holovatskoho
F-3
Hopsova
E-5
Horodotska

A/B-2, A-3, E/G-3, G/H-2
Horodynskyh
E-5
Hrabovskoho
G/H-4
Hrebinky
H-2
Hretska
H-5
Hryhorovycha
B-6, I-3/4
Hutsulska
J-2
Hvardiyska
G-4/5
Illariona Sventsitskoho I-5
Ivana Bohuna
G-4
Ivana Fedorova

C-3/4, D-4, I-2/3
Ivana Franka
D-5/6, I-3/4
Ivana Franka pl.
I-5
Ivana Gonty
B/C-2, I-2
Ivana Gorbachevskoho F-5
Ivana Karpyntsia
G-5
Ivana Levynskoho
F-4
Ivana Ohiyenka
G-2/3
Ivana Pidkovy pl.
B-4, H-3
Ivana Rutkovycha
I-5
Ivana Sharanevycha E/F-2
Johara Dudaieva B/C-6, H/I-3
Josypa Slipoho
J-4/5
Kalicha Hora
A/B-6, H-4
Kameniariv
G-3
Karaimska
I-1
Karmaluka
K-3
Karpatska
J-4/5
Karpinskoho
F-4, G-3
Kastelivka
F-5, G-4
Katliarska
H-2
Kerchenska
K-5
Kharkivska
K-2/3
Khimichna
H-1
Kholodnoho
K-5
Khorvatska
G-2
Khotynska
F-3
Khudozhnia
E-4
Kleparivska
G-1/2
Klionovycha
D-6, I-3
Kniahyni Olhy
F-5
Kniazha
J-2
Kniazia Leva
C-2, I-2
Kniazia Mstyslava Udaloho

A/B-2, H-2
Kniazia Romana C-5/6, I-3
Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla
pl.
B-2, H-2
Kniazya Sviatoslava pl. F-2
Kobylianskoi
I-4
Kokorudza
F-4
Kolbera
G-4
Kolessy
H-4
Koliivschyny pl.
D-4, I-3
Komarova
E/F-2
Komaryntsia
G-5
Konopnytskoi
I-4
Konotopska
E-5
Kooperatyvna
F-2/3
Kopernyka

A-5/6, B-5, G/H-4, H/I-3
Korduby
J/K-1
Korniakta
B-3, H/I-2
Koroliova
J-5
Korotka
E/F-3
Kortumivka
G-2
Kostiushka
A-4, H-3
Kostomarova
I-4
Kotliarevskoho
F/G-4
Kotliarska
A-2, H-2
Kotsubynskoho
H-4/5

Opryshkivska
J-1
Ostapa Nyzhankivskoho

C-5, I-3
Ostrohradskyh
G-5
Ostrozhskoho
K-3
Ozarkevycha
F/G-3
Ozheshko
E-5
Paliia
I-4
Panchyshna
K-5
Panteleymona Kulisha

A-1/2, H-1/2
Paparivka
I/J-1
Parfanovychiv
J-3
Parkova
I-5
Pasternaka
E-4
Pavla Kovzhuna B-5/6, I-3
Pavlyka
J-4
Pekarska D-5, I/J-3, J/K-4
Peremyska
E-5
Pereyaslavska
J-5
Perova
F-3
Petra Doroshenka

A-4/5, B-4, G/H-3
Pid Dubom
H-1
Pidvalna
D-3/4, I-2/3
Pidmurna
B-2, H-2
Pidzamche
I-1
Pisha
C-2, I-2
Piskova
K-3
Pochaivska
K-1
Pogulianka
K-5
Pokhyla
G-5
Polischuka
E-4
Politekhnichna
G-4
Popovycha
B-6, H/I-4
Povstanska
E-5
Profesorska
G-3/4
Prosvity
D-4, I-3, J-2
Pryrodna
F-5
Pylnykarska
B-1, C-2, I-2
Repina
K-3
Rizni pl.
A-2, H-2
Rodyny Krushelnytskyh

J/K-5
Romanchuka
J-4
Rudanskoho
B/C-5, I-3
Ruska
C/D-4, I-2/3
Rusovyh
F-4
Rybna
C-2, I-2
Ryleieva
G-3
Rylskoho
J-4
Rymlianyna
D-5, I-3
Rynok pl.
C-3/4, I-2/3
S. Ludkevycha
I-5
Sadovskoho
K-3
Saksahanskoho
C-6, I-4
Samiylenka
I/J-4
Sarjiana
E-4
Schekavytska
E-2
Schepkina
G-3
Sechenova
F-3
Selskyh
E-4/5
Serbska
C-4, I-3
Severy
I-5
Sheptytskyh
F-3
Shevchenka
E-1, F/G2
Shevchenka prosp.

C-5/6, I-3/4
Shevska
B-3, I-2
Shkilna
I-1
Sholom-Aleikhema
H-2
Shopena
H-2
Shota Rustavelli
I-4/5
Shpytalna
H-2
Shukhevycha
C/D-6, I-3
Shymzeriv
K-4
Sianska
B-2, H-2
Sichovykh Striltsiv A-4, H-3
Simsotrichchia
H-1
Skelna
I-4
Skliana
F-1/2
Skovorody
K-3
Slovatskoho
A-5, H-3
Smal-Stotskoho
E-4
Smerekova
B/C-1, I-1
Smolskoho
J-3
Snopkivska
I-5
Soborna pl.
D-5, I-3
Solodova
K-3
Solomii Krushelnytskoi

G/H-3
Sorokhteya
E-1

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D-5/6, I-3
Akademika Filatova
J-3
Akademika Hnatiuka

A-3/4, H-2/3
Akademika Kravchuka J-3
Akademika Krypiakevycha

K-3
Akademika Liulky A-1, H-1
Akademika Pavlova
J-4
Akademika Romana Kuchera

G-2
Akademika Serhiya
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E-5, F-4
Albanska
K-5
Anatoliya Vakhnianyna K-5
Aralska
K-5
Arkhitektorska
G-3/4
Azovska
K-5
Bankivska A-4, B-4/5, H-3
Barvinskyh
J-2
Baturynska
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Bazarna
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Beryndy
B/C-4, H/I-3
Bibliotechna
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B-1/2, H/J-1, H/I-2
Bohdana Lepkoho
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Boi-Zelenskoho
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Bolharska
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Borysa Romanytskoho G-4
Brativ Mikhnovskyh F-2/3
Brativ Rohatyntsiv C/D-4, I-3
Brativ Tymoshenkiv
G-4
Briulova
G-4
Brovarna
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Cathedralna pl. B/C-4, I-3
Chaikovskoho

A/B-6, B/C-5, H/I-3
Chekhova
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Chereshneva
I-4
Chernihivska
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Chernivetska
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Chervona
F-5
Cholovskoho
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Danyla Halytskoho pl. C-2, I-2
Dekarta
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Denysa Lukjianovycha G-4
Detka
B-1/2, H-1
Dmytra Bortnianskoho E/F-2
Dmytra Danilyshyna A-2, H-2
Dmytra Dontsova
J-3
Dmytra Huni
F-1
Dmytra Vitovskoho

G/H-4, H/I-5
Dniprovska
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Dolynskoho
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Dorosha
J-4
Drahomanova
C-6, H/I-4
Drohobycha
A-4/5, H-3
Drukarska
C-3, I-2
Dvortsova pl.
E-3
Dzherelna
H-1/2
Dzherelna
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Dzyndry
H-5
Fedkovycha
E-3/4
Ferentza Lizta
B-5, H-3
Furmanska
A-3, H-2
Galileia
K-4
Gazova
A-1, H-1
Glynky
G-5
Gogolia
G-3
Gorskoii
E-3/4
Grunvaldska
F-4
Haidamatska
I-1
Halytska
C-4, I-3
Halytska pl.
C-4, I-3
Hanny Barvinok
E/F-5
Hartmana Vitvera
J-3
Havryshkevycha
C-3, I-2
Henerala Chuprynky

E/F-5, F/G-4
Henerala Hrekova
G-1

Kotsylovskoho
J/K-5
Krakivska
B-2/3, C-3, I-2
Krekhivska
G/H-1
Kremenetska
E-5
Kropyvnytskoi pl.
F-3
Kryva Lypa prov.
A-4, H-3
Kubiyovycha
I-5
Kushevycha
H-1
Kvitky-Osnovianenka
F-2
Kvitneva
F-5
Kyivska
F-4
Kyryla i Mefodiia
H/I-4
Lazneva
A-2, H-2
Lemkivska
H-1
Leontovycha
G-2
Lesi Ukrainky
B/D-3, I-2
Lesia Kurbasa
A-3/4, H-2
Levandivska
E-1
Levytskoho
D-6, I/K-4
Liainberha
H-2
Lipska
E-4
Lisna
K-2/3
Litnia
H-5
Lobachevskoho
I-1
Lukasha
G-5
Lutskoho
E-1/2
Lva Tolstoho
I/J-5
Lychakivska
I/K-3
Lypneva pl.
E-4
Lysenka
D-3, I/K-2
Lystopadovoho Chynu G/H-3
Lyzhvjiarska
H-5
M. Slobodivny
J-4
Magazynova
F-2
Maiera Balabana
A-2, H-2
Maksyma Kryvonosa

D-2, I/J-2
Maksyma Zalizniaka
E-4
Mala
J/K-3
Malaniuka pl.
B-5, H-3
Marka Vovchka
F-2/3
Markiyana Shashkevycha pl.

G-4
Martovycha
B/C-6, I-4
Mateika
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Mechnikova
K-3/4
Medova
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Melnyka
E/F-4
Mendeleeva
H/I-4
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H-2
Meretyna Bernarda
F-3
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F-5
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Modesta Sosenka
F-1
Morozenka
F-2
Morshynska
F-5
Muliarska
A/B-1, H-2
Muravy
G/H-3
Museina pl.
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Mykhaila Hrushevskoho I-4
Mykhaila Verbytskoho G-4
Mykhaila Yatskoho
F-1
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Oleksandra Olesia
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Oleksy Dovbusha
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Oleny Stepanivny
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45

Krasnodar
Novorossiysk

FEDERATION

Pr

o li

Kuban'

E A

35

S
K

Yalta

B L

Sevastopol

300 km

100
50

Museum of Ethnography and


Art Crafts
30
Museum of Historical
Valuables
30
Na Rynku
34
Natalia 18
12
National Museum
30
Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya
Galychyny
16
New York Street Pizza
19
NTSh
34
Ofit Service
27
Opera
11
Orchestra
34
Ortadent Assistance
36
Ostrava Bowling
36
Panorama
18
Pelikan
34
Photonova
34
Piano Bar
23
Picasso
24
Pid Klepsydroyu
20
Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu
20
Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu
18
Ploscha Rynok (Market
Square)
27
Porokhova Vezha
14
Pory roku
10
Pozitiff Lounge
24
Pozytyv
31
Praga
15
Praga Caf
20
Praga Pub
23
Prestige
12
PricewaterhouseCoopers 35
Prime Excursion Bureau 27
Prominvestbank
35
Prostir Medical Centre
36
Puzata Khata
18
Raiffeisen Bank Aval
35
Reserved
34
Restoratsiaya na Valoviy 16
Retro Hostel Shevchenko 13
Rumba Bar
23
Runa Agency of Foreign
Languages
36
Rus'ka Street
27
S.T. Dupont Paris
34
Secunda
34
Sixt rent a car
32
Skrynya
34
Soldatenko, Lukashyk &
partners
35
Solomiya Krushelnytska
Opera and Ballet Theatre 10
Sonata
20
Sophia Grand Club
24
Split Club Lviv
24

St. George Cathedral


28
Stara Kramnychka
34
Staryi Krakiv
12
Staryi Tiflis
16
Steak House
18
Stryiskyi Avtovokzal
32
Sushi Kappo-IN
17
SushiYA
17
Svit Kavy
20
Swiss Hotel
12
Teatral'ne
20
The Ancient World and the
Middle Ages
30
The Armenian Cathedral 28
The Bernardine Cathedral
and Monastery
28
The Book House
34
The Chapel of the Boim
Family
28
The Dominican Cathedral 28
The Kosmonaut
13
The Latin Cathedral
28
The Pharmacy Museum Pid
Chornym Orlom
30
The St. Peter and Paul
Church of the Jesuit Order 29
The Weapon Museum
Arsenal
30
TNT
31
Tsikava Kramnychka
34
U Burgera
12
Ukraina
36
Ukraine International Airlines
32
Ukrains'ka Knyharnia
34
Ukreximbank
35
Ukrsotsbank
35
United Colors of Beneton 34
UPS
31
UTEL
31
Valente
20
Veronika
14
Vezha Kramariv
14
Vezha Vedmezha
13
Victoria
36
Vienna
13
Vienna Coffe House
16
Vintage Boutique Hotel
12
Virmenka
20
Voskresinnya Theatre
10
Wseswit
27
Yapi
17
Yapona Hata
17
Zamok Leva
12
Zoloto Polubotka
20
Zolotyi Vepr
17

Varna
25

250
200
150
100

Kentavr
14
Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa
14
Kinopalace
10
Kinopalace Kopernyk
10
Kleopatra
34
Kornjakt Palace (King Jan III
Sobieski Palace)
26
Korzo Pub
23
Krakivska Brama
15
Kryjivka
14
Kumpel
16
Kupol
16
Kurmanovicha
13
Kvartyra 35
20
Kyiv
10
Kyivstar
31
Language Fast
36
La Rouge
17
Legran
34
Lel
36
Leo City
13
Leopolis
11
Les Kurbas Lviv Academic
Theatre
10
Lev
16
Lider - Centre of Foreign
Languages
36
Life
31
LOT Polish Airlines
32
Lviv Art Gallery
10, 30
Lviv History Museum
30
Lviv Holovnyi Train Station 32
Lviv International Airport 32
Lviv Museum of Ancient
Relics
30
Lviv Palace fo Arts
10
Lviv Regional Dall Theatre 10
Lviv Regional Diagnostic
Centre
36
Lviv Regional Laweyrs Bar 35
Lviv Regional State Dental
Clinic
36
Lviv State Palace
10
Magnus
34
Mapa
20
Maria Zankovetska National
Academic Ukrainian Drama
Theatre
10
Masoch Caf
20
Maximum
31
Medical
36
Metro
24
Mi 100
36
Military Collectioner
34
Ministry of Foreign Affairs 35
Motor
34
MTS
31

inyourpocket.com
Europes online city guide

50

Oblast names are the same as their respective centres


except were labelled.

150

b
Danu
0

Darvin
15
DeMandjaro
18
DHL
31
Diamant
34
Dimos Flowers
34
Dnister
11
Double Coffee
19
Dublin
21
Dynamo
36
Dzyga
10
Eden
34
Elite
36
Ellada
36
Eney
12
Erstebank
35
Eurochystka
36
Eurohotel
12
Europcar
32
Europe
15
European Business
Association
35
Europhoto
34
Eurosport
36
Fashion Club
16
FedEx
31
Fest
23
First Ukrainian Theatre for
Children and Youth
10
Flower Waltz
34
Frantsishka
19
Freska
19
Gallery
24
Gallery of Ukrainain Military
Uniform
10
Garmata
16
Gasova Lyampa
19
George
13
Gerdan
10
Globus
34
Goethe-Institute
10
Gothic Hall
34
Grand Hotel
11
Grand Hotel Restaurant 16
Grand Sophia
36
Hertz Rent a Car
32
Hit-Caf
18
Hors
14
International House
36
International Varenyky Fund
(IVF)
14
Intersono
36
Italian Yard
26
Italiys'kyi Dvoryk
19
J&L Consulting
35
Johann Pinzel Museum
29
K.M.K.
36
Kamianyi Lev
27
Kartopliana Khata
18

Free downloads, videos, comments


and exclusive features: all online at

200 mi

BULGARIA

Constanta

30

Mouths of
the Danube

Reni

Izmayil
Galati
Braila

1000+1 Night
21
ABM-Vitadent
36
Adidas
34
Aerosvit
32
Alekstra
19
Alfa Omega
34
Alpaca
18
Amadeus
15
Amator
34
Amphora
34
Antoshka
34
Antykvar
34
Aphrodita
36
Apteka #12
36
Apteka #2
36
Aquapark
36
Arber
34
Archive Pub
21
Arsenal
26
Arsenal Salon
34
Art-11
10
Arta
34
Art Vernisazh
34
Arzinger
35
Assumption Church
27
Atmosphera
15
Austrian Airlines
32
Avis
32
Baransky Photostudio
34
Beeline
31
Beer Garden
21
Berkli
36
Bila Skelia
34
Billiard Centre
36
Bistro B-317
18
Bohemia Fleur
34
Brewing Museum
29
British Council
10
Brocard
34
Cabinet
19
Caf 1
19
Carpatair
32
Celentano
19
Central Post Office
31
Chaos
10
Chorna Kamianytsa (Black
Stone House)
26
Chorna Medeya
31
Chysto
36
Citadel Inn
11
City Council
35
City Hall
26
Classic
36
Colin's
34
Cosmo
34
Cukiernia
19
Cult Club
24
D.S.
36

45

UKRAINE

A
M

National capital
Capital of Autonomous Republic
of Crimea and oblast' centre
City, town
Airport
International boundary
Autonomous Republic of Crimea
and oblast' boundary
Road
Railroad

HUNGARY

Mukacheve

TA

Chernivtsi

ZAKARPATS'KA
OBLAST'

Uzhhorod

NS

Kerch

Feodosiya
Simferopol
Yevpatoriya

Kherson

Odesa

Mykolayiv

Chisinau

k
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AUTONOMOUS
REP. OF CRIMEA

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DO VA
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Berdyans'k

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RUSSIAN

naDonu

Rostov

Novocherkassk

Taganrog

Zaporizhzhia

Marhanets'

Nikopol

Kryvyi Rih

Kirovohrad

Uman
Kamianets'Podil's'kyi

Kolomyya

Vinnytsia
Berdychiv

Ternopil'
R P Drohobych
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Khmel'nyts'kyi
H
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Izyum

o
Cherkasy

Lubny

Pryluky
Brovary
Novohrad
Volyns'kyi
Kovel

OBLAST'

VOLYNS'KA
Lublin

Brest

Kremenchuts'ke
Vdskh.

Romny

Konotop
Nizhyn
Chornobyl'
Korosten'

a ts'
P r ipy

Dn

Pinsk

P O L A N D

Poltava

Sumy

Kharkiv

Belgorod

UKRAINE

Kursk
Shostka

Chernihiv
Homyel'

30

25

Warsaw

Slovians'k
Lozova
Kramators'k Stakhanov
Luhans'k
Pavlohrad
Kostyantynivka
Alchevs'k
Horlivka
Krasnyi
Dnipropetrovs'k
Luch
Yenakiieve
Shakhty
Donets'k Makiyivka

Starobil'sk

50

40

35

RUSSIAN FEDERATION

De
s na

Su
la

B E L A R U S

Vorskla

n
Sa

uh
country map
.B

K er

iNDeX

October - November 2008

43

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