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TDS-447
Edition: March 6, 2015
Previous Edition: February 24, 2009
Original Date: August 17, 2006
Fixate G-100 PR polymer is recommended for low to medium viscosity styling applications. Fixate
PLUS polymer is recommended for medium to high viscosity gels as it is itself a viscosity builder. Fixate
Superhold polymer is recommended when formulating styling products which require a hard, stiff hold.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. / 9911 Brecksville Road, Cleveland, Ohio 44141-3247 / TEL: 800.379.5389 or 216.447.5000
The information contained herein is being furnished
for informational purposes only, upon the express condition
that the User makes its own assessment of the appropriate
use of such information. While the information contained
herein is believed to be reliable, no representations,
guarantees or warranties of any kind are made as to its
accuracy, suitability for a particular application or the
results to be obtained herefrom.
Lubrizol Advanced
Materials, Inc. ("Lubrizol") cannot guarantee how any
products associated with this information will perform in
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
Page 2 of 9
Fixative Polymer
Carbopol Polymer
Homopolymers
Carbopol 940
Carbopol 980
Fixate PLUS
Fixate G-100 PR
Fixate Superhold
Clear Hair Gel
>90 wt% water
Fragrance
Copolymer
Carbopol Ultrez 21
Preservative
Solubilizer
Polarity
High polarity
Medium
Low
Non-polar
Solubilizer
HLB >14
Solubilizer Blends
HLB 17 + HLB 8
HLB 17 + HLB 10
HLB 17 + HLB 12
HLB 17 + HLB 8 +
HLB 12
Polarity
High
Low
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
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Developing desirable and pleasing fragrances is an art. A simplification of their complex composition is
shown in Figure 2(3,4) below. Figure 2 shows 3 levels of odor classes based on the ingredients volatility
or vapor pressure at room temperature. Typically the top notes of a fragrance (25 wt%) vaporize or
volatilize at a much faster rate than notes in the middle (25%) and bottom levels (50%). Fragrances
also contain solvents and/or high boiling carrier fluids. The purpose of these solvents / carrier fluids is
to solubilize the fine aroma chemicals of different polarity and prolong the fragrance release from the
composition. Examples of typical solvents include propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. Examples
of high boiling carrier fluids include diethyl phthalate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl acetate, triethyl citrate,
and isopropyl myristate. Solvents and carrier fluids may interfere with other ingredients and potentially
can cause haziness in water-based systems such as styling gels.
Figure 2 Typical Fragrance Composition
~25% TOP
~25% MIDDLE
~50% BOTTOM
Odor Class
Relative Polarity
Relative Solubility
Floral
High
High
Fruity
Medium
Medium
Menthe
Medium
Medium
4
5
6
7
8
9
Spice / Herbs
Citrus
Woods
Woods
Medicinal
Animal
Medium / Low
Low / Non-polar
Low / Non-polar
Low / Non-polar
Low / Non-polar
Low / Non-polar
Medium / Low
Low
Low
Low
Low
Low
Examples
Jasmine, rose, lilac, and
carnation
Esters, aldehydes, and fruity
lactones
Peppermint, spearmint, and
menthol
Spice oils (Eugenol)
Terpenes, d and llimonene
Cedar and sandal wood oil
Pinene
Camphor and thymol
Ambergris, civet and musk
Polarity: Fragrance polarity is a physical property of a fragrance compound that affects its solubility in
both water and oil. The polarity of a material results from an uneven partial charge distribution between
atoms of a compound. Electronegative atoms such as nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur have a tendency to
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
Page 4 of 9
exhibit partial negative charges. Fragrance compounds containing these atoms (alcohols, aldehydes,
ketones, ethers, esters, etc.) are more polar and will likely be water soluble or water dispersible.
Molecules whose atoms have equal or nearly equal electro negativities have zero or very small dipole
moments. Atoms, such as carbon and hydrogen, have a tendency to be more neutral or have partial
positive charges. Examples of this class of compounds are mineral oil and silicone oil which are nonpolar (water insoluble).
Solubility Parameter (SP): SP is a measure of the cohesive forces of a molecule. SP is often used
as a tool to solve problems caused by fragrance ingredients in emulsion products and surfactant based
cleansing products(1, 3-8). Solubility parameter ranges from 5 for silicone oils (non-polar), to 23.4 for
water (polar). The higher the SP number, the better the water dispersibility or water solubility of the
material. Figure 3 provides a list of fine chemicals with their respective solubility parameter.
Figure 3 Solubility parameters of select fine chemicals indicating their relative polarity
23.4
Water
14
Propylene Glycol
12.6
Ethanol
12.3
Vanillin
11.8
Benzaldehyde
9.62
Linalool
Citronellal
8.83
8.03
Pinene
7.09
Mineral Oil
5
Silicone Oil
0
10
15
20
25
Polarity (SP)
Fragrance Solubilizers: Solubilizers used for fragrances in water-based systems are typically
nonionic surfactants. The key criterion in selecting a suitable solubilizer or solubilizer package is the
HLB (hydrophilic/ lipophilic balance) value. Another equally important property will be the solubility
parameter of the fragrance contained in the formulation.
Fine ingredients with a solubility parameter > 9 are readily soluble or dispersible when using a
fragrance solubilizer that has an HLB >14. If a high HLB solubilizer doesnt work with a particular
fragrance, one can assume that the fragrance may contain a large quantity of oil soluble components.
Thus, it is best to choose a blend of high and low HLB solubilizers for the solubilizer package. The use
of a blended system will help to solubilize both the low and high solubility parameter fragrance
components.
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
Page 5 of 9
Experiments
I. Baseline study - experiments using a single solubilizer: A simple styling gel formulation was
chosen for the baseline study to understand fragrance interactions using five individual fragrances of
known solubility parameter, six widely used fragrance solublizers, and Fixate PLUS polymer. Table 2
lists the five fine aroma ingredients with their solubility parameters (SP).
Table 2 Fine aroma ingredients with known solubility parameters
Fragrance
Phenyl ethyl alcohol
Benzaldehyde
Linalool
Citronellal
Pinene
Odor Class
Floral (Rose)
Fruity
Floral (w/spicy)
Floral (Rose)
Wood
Table 3 shows six types of commonly used solubilizers of known HLB ranging from 14 to 19. They were
screened at 2:1 ratio of solubilizer to fragrance.
Table 3 Solubilizer List
Solubilizer
INCI
HLB
Supplier
Trade Name
Polysorbate 20
16.7
Uniqema
Tween 20
Polysorbate 80
PEG - 60 Hydrogenated
Castor Oil
PEG - 40 Hydrogenated
Castor Oil
15.0
Uniqema
Tween 80
17.0
BASF
Cremophor RH 60
14.6
BASF
Cremophor RH 40
Steareth-100
18.8
Jeen
International
Jeecol SA-100
Oleth-20
14.6
Lubrizol
Chemonic OE-20
Surfactant
3
4
The details of the simple styling gel screening formulation are found in Table 4.
Table 4 Simple Styling Gel Formulation
Part A
Deionized Water
Carbopol 940 Polymer
Fixate PLUS Polymer
Glydant Plus
AMP Ultra PC 2000
wt%
Q.S
0.50
1.67
0.35
pH 7
Part B
Solubilizer
Fragrance
Propylene Glycol
Deionized Water
0.20
0.10
1.00
1.00
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
Page 6 of 9
Preparation Procedure:
1. Disperse Carbopol polymer in water with mixing.
2. Add the remaining ingredients of Part A in the order listed. Neutralize to pH 7.0 with AMP Ultra PC
2000
3. Mix ingredients in Part B in order. Mix for 5 min or until mixture appears clear.
4. Add Part B to Part A with mixing.
5. Mix vigorously to allow fragrance mixture uniformly distributed.
II. Experiments using solubilizer blends
The simple hair gel formulation in Table 4 was repeated using Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer at 0.5 wt%
TS with a non-polar fragrance which comprises citrus, fruity, woody, musky, medicinal, menthol, and
floral. The solubilizer consisted of Cremophor RH 60 (PEG-60 HCO) and Transcutol CG
(ethoxydiglycol) from Gattefosse at various ratios (25/75, 50/50 and 75/25 wt/wt ratios).
III. An Optimization study
An optimization study was conducted using a design of experiments (DOE) based on seven variables
including solubilizer packages containing high HLB 17, high/low HLB blend of 17/8 mixture, and high/
medium / low HLB blend of 17/8/12 mixture. The details of variables are shown in Table 5.
Table 5 Variables used in the optimization study
Ingredient
Category
Fixate Polymer
Preservative
Fragrance Type
Fragrance Level
Carbopol
Polymer
Solubilizer Blends
Description 1
PLUS
Superhold
G-100 PR
Glydant Plus
Kathon CG
Germaben II
Phenonip
High polarity
Med polarity
Low polarity
Non-polar
0.1 wt%
0.3 wt%
Ultrez 21
940
980
S1
S2
S3
S4
Solubilizer:
Fragrance ratio
1:1
2:1
3:1
Description 2
0.5 wt% TS (with 0.5 wt% TS Carbopol polymer for high viscosity gel)
0.5 wt% TS (with 0.5 wt% TS Carbopol polymer for high viscosity gel)
1.0 wt% TS (with 1.0% Carbopol polymer for high viscosity gel)
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone
Diazolidinyl Urea, Methyl- and Propylparaben, /Propylene glycol
Methyl-, Ethyl, Propyl-, Butyl-, and isobutylparaben, Phenoxyethanol
Floral (rose) with a touch of citrus
Fruity (strong green apple) with musky notes
Fruity, spicy, floral and musky notes
Citrus, fruity, woody, musky, medicinal, menthol and floral
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
Page 7 of 9
Clarity, % T
80
SP 11.79 (Phenyl ethyl
alcohol, Rose)
60
SP 11 (Benzaldehyde)
40
20
SP 8.83 (Citronellal,
Rose, Floral)
SP 8.03 (Pinene)
0
SA-100
Oleth 20
HCO 60
HCO 40
Polysorbate Polysorbate
20
80
II. Experiments using solubilizer blends: The major components in the floral odor class (eg. Phenyl
ethyl alcohol, SP = 11.79) are either water soluble or water dispersible due to their relatively high
polarity. As expected, clear gels were easily obtained with floral fragrance using PEG-60 HCO. In
contrast, musk (from the animal odor class) is relatively non-polar and it was very difficult to obtain clear
hair gels with fragrances containing a considerable amount of musk. Figure 5 illustrates the importance
of the solubilizer blend formulating approach. A solubilizer blend of ethoxydiglycol and PEG-60 HCO at
25:75 wt/wt ratio offered clarity (>75% T) in the presence of a musk-based non-polar fragrance in the
gel formula with 0.5 wt% TS Fixate PLUS and 0.5 wt% TS Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymers.
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
Page 8 of 9
Figure 5 Hair gel clarity using blends of ethoxydiglycol and PEG-60 HCO as the
solubilizer for non-polar fragrance
C l a r i t y, % T
80
60
40
20
0
Ethoxy
diglycol,
100%
Blend-2,
25/75
Blend-2,
75/25
Blend-2,
50/50
PEG 60 HCO,
100%
III. Optimization study: A large number of experiments were carried out in the optimization study
(DOE) to understand the clarity aspect of styling gels using several variables:
Based on data generated from the design of experiments, the preferred solubilizer blends for typical
fragrance classes are provided for different Fixate and Carbopol polymer combinations in Table 6.
Table 6 Preferred solubilizer blends and fragrances for Fixate/Carbopol polymer systems
Fixate Choice
Fixate PLUS
Polymer
and Fixate
Superhold
Polymer
Fixate G-100 PR
Polymer
Preferred Solubilizer
Blends (Refer to Table
5)
Preferred Fragrance
Preferred ratio of
solubilizer/ fragrance
Preferred Preservative
.
Viscosity, mPa s
Clarity, %T
Preferred Solubilizer
Blends (Refer Table 5)
Preferred fragrance type
Preferred ratio of
solubilizer/ fragrance
Preferred Preservative
.
Viscosity, mPa s
Clarity, %T
Carbopol Ultrez 21
Polymer
Carbopol 940
Polymer
Carbopol 980
Polymer
S4
S4
S4
High polarity
High polarity
High polarity
1:1
1:1
1:1
Glydant Plus
~90,000
Up to 95
Glydant Plus
~60,000
Up to 89
Glydant Plus
~50,000
Up to 89
S2
S4
S4
Low polarity
High polarity
High polarity
1:1
1:1
1:1
Kathon CG
~30,000
Up to 95
Glydant Plus
~25,000
Up to 80
Glydant Plus
~20,000
Up to 80
TDS-447
Use of Fragrance with Fixate Polymers
Page 9 of 9
With the exception of the Fixate G-100 PR polymer and Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer combination, all
systems exhibit better clarity with high polarity fragrance blend S4 and Glydant Plus as the
preservative.
The combination of Fixate G-100 PR polymer, Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer, and low polarity fragrances
yielded better clarity using the S2 solubilizer blend (refer Table 5) and Kathon CG as the preservative.
Overall, Carbopol Ultrez 21 copolymer provides higher clarity systems when compared to the Carbopol
homopolymers.
Summary of recommendations for choosing additives for making high clarity hair gels:
Thickener: Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer > Carbopol 940 polymer > Carbopol 980 polymer
Fragrance polarity: High > medium > low > non-polar
Fragrance level: 0.1 > 0.2 > 0.3
Solubilizer blend package (Refer to Table 5): S4 > S3 > S1 > S2
Preservative: Glydant Plus > Kathon CG > Germaben II (Phenonip may cause haze)
Processing Guidelines
Refer to Table 4 and procedure. Prepare microemulsion of fragrances and solubilizers separately,
shown Part B. Mix Part B until mixture becomes clear. Add microemulsion to Part A with good
agitation. Mix vigorously to allow fragrance mixture to be uniformly distributed.
Acknowledgements:
S.J. Herman is acknowledged for providing five fine aroma ingredients with known solubility parameter
for this work.
References:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Chemistry and Technology of Flavors and Fragrances, D Rowe, ed. Boca Raton Blackwell (2005).
www.iff.com.
S.J. Herman, The Art and the Science Fragrance, Chemtec, Aug 1992, p. 458.
www.Stephen-herman.com.
Steve Herman, Cosmetic and Toiletries 121 (4) 59-67 (2006).
C.D. Vaughan, Using Solubility Parameters in Cosmetics Formulation, Journal of the Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, Sept/Oct. 1985, Vol. 36, pp. 319-333.
7. C.D. Vaughan, Solubility Effects in Product, Package, Penetration, and Preservation, Cosmetics &
Toiletries, Oct. 1988, Vol. 103, pp. 47-69.
8. S.J. Herman, Smells Great! Whats The CLOG P?, Global Cosmetic Industry, Mar. 1999, p. 22.