NO.

58

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$3.50

Wrodsmith
Number 58

August, 1988

Edit", Donald B. Peschke

Oe$Igij Direct'" Ted Kralicek
ManagingEdrtOf Douglas L. Hicks
AssistantEd,I'" Douglas M. Uclster
Project Designer Ken Munkel
TechnlcalIllustrators David Kreyling
Cary Christensen
RodStoakes
Chris Glowacki
CustomerSeMce Sandy Baum, Mgr.
Jackie Stroud
PatKoob
Lisa Thompson
Computer 0pera1)Ons Ken Miner
Administrative
AssIS. Cheryl Scott
JeanC.rey
BuildingMaintenance Archie Krause

Sawdust
AB011l' THIS ISSUE, How high should a
QheSIof drawers be? That's a good question. And one that's actually very difficult
to answer.
When you set out to build a chest of
drawers, there are two major steps: building the chest itself, and then building the
drawers to fit, So it would seem easy to
say, "WeU, I'd like to build a chest 30" bigh
with four drawers."
But the design of any woodworking projeet is a combination of art and science. The
art is the aesthetics of the design. The
science is figuring out how to make all the
pieces fit togethel',
Okay, Don, it sounds like you're about

to get into a treatise on design. Let's skip

all that and gel down to the lutty gritloy,
In a nutshell, I'm always amazed at the
amount of basic planning required to build
what I think should be a simple chest of
drawers. It seems like a never-endingseries of details and decisions,
About a year ago, we were building the
seven-drawer lingelie dresser fOl' issue
No. 53. 'Ve wanted to use dovetails to join
the drawers, but since there were so mallY,
The Woodsmith Store
we decided to use a router and dovetail jig
rather than cut them all by hand,
0peratOoos Steve Krohmer
Just about that time we received a tip
MarketingManager Steve Dozier
(rom William Schultz, a 'subscriber from
Albuquerque, New Mexico. He had built II
SioreManagers:
dovetad jig aOO made his own template
SI. Louis. MD Jon Behrle
using a box joint jig.
8erkei<ly. CA Michael DeHaven
Doug Hicks decided to build the jig to
Des Moines.IA Kent Welsh
see how it worked. fn the middle of that
WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114) is pob- process, Ken stopped by and mentioned
lished bimonlhly (Februal)l, April,June, Au that he. always wanted to build a jig that
gust. October, December) by Woodsmith used cams instead of wing nuts to hold the
Publishing Co .. 2200 Grand Ave., Des workpieces in place. Then Ted made a few
comments and changes. Soon we-had a new
Moines, IA50312.
WOOdsmith is a regiStered lrademark 01 approach to a dovetail jig.
Unfortunately. we didn't have enough
WoocIsmilhPublishing Co.
\tCopyright 1988 byWoodsmith PubUshing room in that issue to show the jig. So we
waited until we began bua(ling the comCo. AllRights Reserved.
Subscriptions: One year (6 issues) $12.95, panion piece (the cherry dresser ShOWIlin
TwoYears (12 issues) $22.95. Canada and this issue) to show the dovetail jig.
Since we had the dovetail jig, we wanted
Foreign: add $2 PIlr year, U.S. fundS only.
1.0
build the drawers fOI'the dresser with
Single.copy price, $3.50.
it,
This automatically sets some parameSecond Class Postage Paid at Des
ters fOI' the ~ize of the drawers.
Moihes, Iowa.
When you use a dovetail jig, the pins
Postmaster:
Send change 01 address
notice, to Woodsmilh Publishing co., 2200 and sockets are cut with a template that's
based on increments of '1',01'. (This dimenGrand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312,
BACK ISSUES: All back issues of sion actually comes from the V..-<lia.
Woodsmith are still available. For a free guide bushing that's used to guide the
booklet desclibinglhe contents and prices of route)..) But the layout of the dovetails has
all back issues, just send us your name and to be in multiples of v,," because at tbe
minimum YOII need one socket and two
address 10 the address above.
SAMPLE COPY: We willbe happy to send a balf-pins (one On top, one on the bottom)
free sample copy of WorxJsrnfth !o anyone to make a joint.
I'm getting a little sidetracked hers.
you thinkwould enjoy it Just send us his/her
Back
to the design of the dresser ill this
name and address.

issue. What it gets down to is that the

height of the ease is actually determined
by the drawers, which are multiples of "/.".
But it would be too easy if that were the
only consideration,
In addition to the dovetail layout, you
have to allow for the clearance above each
drawer. MOl'" planning ahead. Also, since
we wanted to use plastic glide strips (to
help the drawer slide in aOO out easily), we
had to allow for the thickness of the strips
in determining the height of each opening.
There's one last detail: the thickness of
the stock. We list the thickness of 414 stock
as "y",". (4/4 is the designation for lum-

bel' that's 1" t.hick when it's rough

8a\V'l1.

Then it's planed down to final thicknes.s,

The National Hardwood Lumber ~ia.tion sets the standard of "v. thick for
most hardwoods.)
aut in reality, the stock you use may be
a different acti(ql thickness - usually it's
somewhere between y.," and "YI,r, You
have to take this into account when adding
in the thickness of the rails that are between each drawer,
So, detennining the heighL of a dresser
is not easy. The dimensions we show in the
plans may seem odd. POI' example, the
basic case for the dresser is 25',),,,," high,
an odd dimension. But it's actually just the
sum of all these details.
SOUltCflBOOI\. IT you've been subseribing fOI' awhile, you'll remember the WoodItmitlr $OI,rceboi>k. We began publishing it
in 19&1, (but it didn't come out last year).
The basic idea behind the Sm,roobook is
to provide information for woodworkers.
Rather than add advertising to Woodsmith, we decided to publish the Sourcebrxik. It's a listing of companies who have
mail-order catalogs, or offer information 0)1
tools and supplies for woodwersers.
Thi~ year's So"rcelXJQk, will be mailed
free to all active WoodS1nilh subscribers
(lIS of September (988). Pel like to invito
you 1.0 use the Solt1'cebook if you're looking for catalogs 01' other information, It's
an easy way to order a lot of information,
PltOTEcrrvS COVER. For quite a few
years we've added a protective COvel' to
IVood.~mit1. U was a convenient way to
show the covers of back issues.
But we gpt to the point thai there were
more back issues available than there was
room to show them, With this issue, we've
added an expanded version of the protective cover, and we were able to add an expanded order form and some information
about the kits shown in the past issues.
NEXT MAILING, The next issue of Woodsmith (No, 59) will be mailed tlwing the
week of October 31, 1988,
WOODSMI1'H

T_i(!s & Technigu_e_s __

__

TRIMMING SOLID EDGING

TABLE SAW DUST BAG

In order to t'U~down on sawdust and chips

~Iowing all over my shop, 1 added a dust
bag tQ the bottom of my table saw.
I startro by cutting a piece of 'l(," plywood to bolt W the bottom of my table saw
cabinet.

handle on the wing to keep the router from

gouging the work. I've found the best technique to prevent chipout is to move the
route r laterally and take small bites.

I've noticed thal WoodsmiUt has printed a

variety of techniques for trimming solid
wood edging flush afUlr it's plU"J">OSely apCharles E. Brasuine
plied a little proud of the adjacent surface,
Petaluma, C(IlijWllia
This is otten the case ,,~th table tops, countertops, and plywood panels.
MORE ON PILOT BITS
I use my router with an auxiliary base
to trim off the extra edging. To do this, I!Jditor'. Note: h: Woodsmith No. 56 1<Ie
start by removing the plastic base plate featu)'ed, al1 <>,ticle about pilot bit sets.
fi"Onl the "outer and mount a two-layer Aft6)' it apJXXtI"<l(! we ,-ecei'ved II c,mpl. tips:
base made from '1.0" Masonite.
I use the "screwdigger' bits aU the time
and have found a solution to the problem
NOTE: SCREW DOWN
of the bits slipping' up into the collar ,ifthe
AUXIUARY aASE IN
sua
set screw isn't extremely tight.
UNf WITH ROUTER
USE

...

HAHDtfS

f.of---+-lt"~---\j
"SCUWDIGGER"

Then, 1 visited a local building center

and found a funnel-shaped furnace air duct
reducer made from sheet metal. There are
a variety of shapes and sizes, but get one
with a flat shoulder that runs around the
bottom.
Now cat an opening in the plywood panel
with a sabre saw to secept the sheet metal reducer. By cutting carefully, you "",1
get a snug enough fit SO that the reducer
can just be pushed inlo the opening and
held without fasteners. (If neOO$$3'")',it can
be strewed in place with a couple of sheet
metal screws from the inside.)
~ly wife sewed up a cloth bag with a
drawstring \0 catch the chips, but a plastic
garbage bag and large rubber band or
"bungee cord" would also work.

GARBAGE SAG

HElD TO

Rrot,ICER WITH
LARGE RUfl8.ER
~NO Oft
BUNGeE COftD

an

ALE RAT

ON 6rt FOIt SET

BlOCK ftANDLE

SCREW TO SlT ON

'I'he top layer follows the ,.. dius of the

router on one end, but has a wing that
l)'Y filing a nat spot On the drill bit for
sticks out about 6" beyond the router on the set screw to sit on. ITthe bit C8Jl't turn,
the other end. After cutting this piece to it isn't as likely to slide out of position,
size, T used the plastic I"(lUW' base as a
Keum Pommier
template to mark the location of the bit
hole and SCrew holes. Then I glued a block
Sfm"" Falls, Smtih D~kQta
as a handle to the top of the wing.
Next. cut a sub base to shape with " 9()0
I found some of the same problems with
point and glue it to the top layer so that i~ ~he "Scru-Drill" bits that, 1'l00ds",ilJ! menstops short of the bit. By making tbe sub tioned in the article - the weakness and
base come to a 9()0 point, you can easily instability of the thin pilot bit section.
work into Ute COt11er or a workpiece that, Rather than trl~l1g to replace the broken
has edb"ng on two sides.
0" bent original pilot bits, I substituted
1'0 use the jig, screw it to the bottom of twist drill bits.
t.he router and mount a stl'aight bit, Then
The #6 "Seru-Drill" uses a r,.o" t'vist
adjust the depth SOthe bit just touches the bit. The #8 bit accepts a '~.,Ntwist bit.
work surface.
And the #10 bit takes a 0/,." twist bit.
Using a twist bit means you have to stop
occasionally and unclog the flutes sin ee the
exit- are blocked by the shank section Oil
Oneside. But it's a small disadvantage compru-e<1 to tbe ease of one-step drilling,
f.,a"'Y Albrecht
Lenem, Kansas
Sf NO IN YOUR

The bag

If you'd like to share a woodworking tip with other

readers of Woodsm;rh. send your Idea 10:
Woodsmlth. TIp" & Techniques. 2200 Grand

doesn't catch aU of the dust

(the,.,,"s still some that goes out the back

<J( the saw1. but it's a big improvement
(>\"<'1" .. h;.t used to end up On my floor.
Mbriey H. Grt/.Ju""
Belle"il/e, Ontario

\VOOD MITH

IDEAS

Now, place the router so the wing is on

the work surface and the bit hangs slightly
over the outside of the edgin~ strip. Move
tbe bit slowly into the strip keeping one
hand securely pressed down on the block

Ave.. Oes Moines, Iowa 50312.

We pay a minimum a! 510 lor UpS,IIIl<IS15 or

mere for special techniques (that are accepted

for pubflcation,. Please give 8 complete sxplanatIon yO\lr idea. If a sketeh i. needed, send il

0'

along: we'll draw a new one.

H_o~eChest

____

AN HEIRLOOM FOR THE FUTURE

Probably the most interesting p<ut about
..
.....
"
_.
building this hope chest is the corner joint,
.-......._.....
.
It's a variation of a tongue and groove, but .............
,

'

the corners are beveled and shoulders are

added to both ends of the bevel. It sounds
complicated, but it's actually easy, And it
produces a unique joint that adds a lot to
the overall appearance of the chest,

..

",

."~'''~~''
''.

".

,".,"

END PANELS

[ began work on the chest by edge-gluing'

enough 1I4 stock ('0/,. actual thickness)
to make two end panels (A) that were
roughly 18" wide and 21" long. After the
glue dries, plane 0)' belt san(l the panels
nat. Then cut them to finished size: 17'
wide by 20" long, see Fig. 1.
Shop Note: rt:. important that these
panels be planed 0)' sanded to a ''''iform
thickness across their width. If they're not
perfectly uniform, the shoulder cut on the
outside of the joint will look wavy.
CUT DADOES. After the e))d panels are
to si7.e, you can hegin work on the COl1Ier
joint.. Start by cutting ~"wide dadoes on
the inside fate of the end panels. (Although
this joint is traditionally called a tongue
and gl'WL'e, it's actually a tongue and dado
since the groove runs across the grain.)
To cut the dadoes, set the rip fence so
the distance from the fence to the outside
of the saw blade equals the thickness of
your stock, minus 11<" (tq allow for the
shoulder), see Step ~ in Fig. 2. Since J used
"l'Itthick stock, I set the fence "loG"
from the outside of the blade, Then cut a
'l'Id'deep dado at both ends of the panels.
ROOT DADO. Next, I used the router
table to rout a ~ -deep dado on the other
face of each panel (the outside face). 'Phis
dado will law form a shoulder alongside
the corner angle, see Corner Detail.
'ro rout this dado, mount a o/l straight
bit in the router table and set the fence so
the outside of the bit is in line with the
dado you just cut on the saw, see S>I)2.
ROUTANGLE. AiteJ the dadoes are cut,
switch to a chamfer bie to rout a 4~angle
along Ule outside end of the panels, see
Step 3. To get uniform VI' shoulders at
both ends of the chamfer, sneak up 011 the
final eut by raising the bit a little at a time
until both shoulders equal '11'.
fRONT AND BACK

Next, work

call

begin

011 the

RGU~E1

EDGE GLUE lYIO END

1f""'""="",,J:::::P~AN~ElS

RlOM 41.. STOCK

CORNER DETAJ!,
$ttOUIDER

END PANEL

'NO
PANEL

END DETAil
1(1' DADOES.

VI.~Ollie ON INSIOE ----....._

FACE-OF Bom END PANELS

AGUR.E 2

RIP
HNCe

n'Ont (B) and

back (C) panels. Again, these panels are

edge-glued Irom 4/4 stock, and planed to

a uniform thickness.
CUT1'0 SIZE. 'The length of both panels

is the same (35~">, but the width varies

WOODSMITH

since a drawer fits under the front panel

(B). First, cut the back panel (C) to a width
of ]7", see Fig. 3.
Next, cut the front panel (B) 6Vil 1'lSS
in width than the back panel, see Fig. 8.
(This measurement takes into consider .. tion the 5'h" drawer height, a v..' g"dp
above the drawer, and a '0/,.' filler ship
below the drawer, refer to Fig. 10.)
TONGUl:. AftN the panels are cut to size,
cut a rabbet on the end of each piece to
create a 'h"-Iong tongue to fit in the
dadoes on the end panels. r cut this on the
router table, see Corner Detail ill Fig. 8.
Sneak up on the cut until the tongue fits
snugly into the dado.
RUNNERANDSHELF GROOVES.There'S
one more step on the front and back
panels. Two v..-wide grooves have to be
cut on the inside faces of these panels to
hold tray runners and a shelf, see Fig. 3.

FIGURE 3

~~

"

GROOVE !lETAlt

When the shelf is complete, the basic case

can be assembled. Start by gluing the front
(B) and back (C) panels to one end panel
(A). To help hold the assembly square,
slide the shelf (D) into the grooves from
the open end. After the glue dries, glue
the other end panel in place.

TRAY RUNNER
GROOVl:

~
GIlOOvtS fOil
PlYWOOD SHf11

Once the grooves are cut, a plywood shelf

(0) can be made, see Fig. 4. To determine

ASSEMBLY

'-

EPGE atUIl
... FRONTJaACK
FROM 414 SlOCK

SHELF

the width of the shelf (from front to back),

dry-assemble the chest and measure the
inside distance between the end panels.
Then add 'fl' for the two V.."-<.leep dadoes.
The length of the shelf is equal to the
inside width of the case. (There aren't any
tongues on the ends of the shelf.)
TONGUE. Now rout rabbets on the front
and back edges to form tongues, see Detail
in Fig. 4. Again, 'sneak up on this cut until
the tongue just fits the groove.

FRONT
PANEL

SET DADO BlAM

~~W1DE

.
.'

BACK
PANEL

-l
l.

.-1.
.. I ,

]r.!

FIGURE 4

DETAil

cur so

AND aACK EOGES -~

TO FORM 'I....
TONGUES

TOP TRIM

After the case is assembled, two runners

(E) are added to bold a stiding tray.

RUNNERS. Cut the runners to a width of

\VOODSMITH

IN

ueaEl FRONt

RUNNERS AND TOP TRIM

'VI', see Runner Detail ill Fig. 6. Then cut

rabbets along each edge, forming a tongue
centered on the runners that fits the Yo..
grooves in the front and back panels,
After the tongues are formed, cut the
runners to length to fit inside the case.
Then glue the runners into the grooves.
Shop Note: It's difficult to clamp the runners. So 1wedged a length of scrap between the runners to PI"eSS them in place
until the glue dried.
TOP TRIM. The final step is to add W'thick trim strip (F) around the top edges,
see Fig. 5. Cut the trim strip 1V..' wide
and round over the bottom outside edge,
see Trim Detail in Fig. 5. Then, miter the
pieces to length, and glue and nail them to
the top of the case.

tONGUE

FITS

;It
.... 0

'AROUND

OvtR

TRlM DETAil

AVOID NAIUNG
lltM IN LOa(
OR HINGE AREA

END PANEL

@
TRAY
RUNNERS

SHEtF

,I

RUNNER DETAil

THE BASE FRAME

FIGURE 7

LAY OUT
"PArrtRN

Am.

ctnTlNG

TO LEI'iG'iH

ORlll I ~ HOlE
8(FORE tAYlNG

our

fIGURE 8

<D

/" -MOLDING
:
STRIP

PATTEItN

110"".
T....

STep 1

fENCE

J/

l'I'l l! ""'-"'i,
CROSS SECTION

J.o

STEP 2

J ''I,~
r~t:;;:-JJ..

1111:1

II~ "1,,'--;

oK

L.. '0/ .;"

F" -

ORIU i~"SHANK

HOlES TO AnACH
BASE TO CASE

rU
I

"''''lllIlf

stock to

~ml'~'
E
stRAIGHT

"'. "IT-

fIGURE 9
CUT10 fiT __ .

OPENING'

'\

:-' .--

/
c

Q)
FRONT FIlLER STRIP

Once the case was complete, I began work

on the b<I$C.The base consists of a scrollcut kickboard frame with a molding StrIll
glued on lop of it, refer to Fig. 8.
KICKBOARD FRAM&. To make the kickboard frame, cut the fl'QntJbackpieces (G),
and two Sides (H) fI'om 414steck to a width
of 4%", see fig. 6, Then miter both ends
of the front/beck pieces so the length of
each piece (from long point to long point)
is tv.' longer than the width of the assembled ease. Next miter the side pieces
so they're 1Vi' longer than the depth of
the case, (This creates a frame that is %'
la,-ger than the case on all four sides.)
KERF A.NO SPLINE. '1'0 help keep the
miters aligned while clamping, 1cut 3 kerf
in each miter and added a spline, see
Comer Detail in Fig. 6.
SCROLLWORK. Before gluing the frame
together, I cut a SCl'Q1Idesign along the
bottom edges. Start by drilling J"-4iametel' holes near the end of each piece, J 1/."
up from the bottom edge, see Fig. 7.
Next, make a poster board half-pattern
following the dimensions in Fig. 7. (Or
send for the patterns, see page 24.) Then
trace the pattern on the workpiece and cui
it out with a sabre saw or band saw.
ASSEMBLY, When the scrollwork
has
been cut and sanded, glue the kiekboard
frame tcgether.
~fOLDINGS1'RIP.1'0 complete the base
frame, 1 made a molding strip (1) that's
glued to the top edge of the frame, see Fig.
8, Sta.t by cutting two pieces of 414 stock
ror the sides to a rough length of 22". Then
cut the front and back pieces to a rough
length of 38'.
Before cutling tbe pieces to finalleu!,>th,
I routed a Roman agee profile along the
lop edge, see Step 1 in Fig. 8. Then cut a
rabbet along the bottom edge, see Step 2.
Shop Note: This rabbet should be I/,/'
less in \\;dth than the thickness of your

-118 )I 1 %. '"
WOOOSCRW' KlCKBOARD

SIOE-~'

create

a Va' shoulder

(llAt},"

in my

ease). see CI'OSSSection in Fig. 8.

MITERMOLDING.After the rabbets are
cut, miter the pieces so the shoulder of the
rabbet fits against the inside edges of the
kickboard frame, see Fig. 8. Then glue the

molding strips in place.

ASSEMBLY. To attach the case to the
kiekhoard frame, drill o/i.' shank holes
completely through the base molding, see
Fig. 8. Then tum the ease upside down and
position the base on top of it. Now chill
pilot holes, and.screw the base to the case,
see Fig. 9.
FD.LEll S'l'R1P. After the base ftame was
screwed to the ease, I added a ""ont filler
strip (J) to the bottom of the draw...' opening, see Fig. 9. It's positioned to create an
\1,;' shoulder where the ends of the strip
meel the end panels (A). (This corresponds
with the V." shoulder on the come r jOint.)
WOODSMlTH

AGUR( 10

DRAWER GUIDES

'!'here are a rew more details to take rare

of. First. drawer guides are moonted inside the ease to a lip created by the molding .trip:; (1). see Fig. 10. These guides
""","sl of a runner and a side guide,
To make the drawer guides. first cut the
runners (I.) lr "ide and the side guides
(M) I" Mde. Then cut both to length to fit
between the back edge of the filler strip
(.1) and the cabinet back (C), see Fig. 10.
Now glue the runner (L) to the top edge
of the molding .1til' (I) on the inside or
the kickboaI'(I frame, see Fig. 10. Then
glue a side guide (M) on top of the runner.
Make sure both the runner and ";de guide
are glued tight <\Ifainstthe end panel
I'lU.R STRU'.To complete the drawer
opening, I glued a vertical filler strip (K)
at each end of the opening see Fig. 10.
(Note that the gr.un on this strip runs the
same direction as the front of the ease.)
Glue the strip" to the ends of the opening
50 they're nush "ith the front panel (8).

1 DRAWER

:K)
VERTICAL

RUfR STRIP

fanTom
{'00lN1HOI

sniP
GLUE.UIIIN'.

onSMITN

KICICIQARO

TO UP ON
1NSlDE Of CASE

ROOt' 11

SIDE

TRIM

20"."-

S'DE

___.,.;-

"', .

yo

I
UD PANS.

The lid for the chest is made from solid

w,

2'_

MOtOING

THE LID AND TOP FRAMJ

stock. and topped with a scrolled frame.

rn~ uo, Start.by edge-gluing' enough
414 stock to make a lid blank (N) that's
l1lughly 28" wide and 39" long. 'Vben the
blank Is dry and planed Oat. cut it 111.'Iarg~r (in both dil'ection..) than the ease,
see Fig. II.
ROtrr PllOFIt.il. Next. rout a Roman
egee prolile around all four edges lea\ing
a \I.. ~houlder. see Edge Detail in Fig. 11.
SCROu..EO FRAME. '!'he scrolled frame
on top of the lid COll-<Ists of three piece,;
that are mitered at the back eemers, '!'he
back piece (P) i.cut to a width of So and
then mitered to length (from long point to
long point) >'0 it's 1V," I~$$thttn the length
of thP tid. see ~'ilt.J I.
The two side pieces (0) are cut to a width
of :r. Sine(: these pieces are only mitered
on the buck comet, first cut. miter on 000
end of ea('h piece. '!'hen trim the other end
straight I\() tho distance from the long point
on the mil." 10 the !'ront edge is lil." less
than the wirllh of the tid, see ~'ig. 11.
SCIIOI.LWORK.Afte. the pieces are cut
to .ize. the 8(:1'011design can be cut as was
don.' em the kiekboard. Drill out the I"
holt", make A pattern (see Fig. 12) and
ttanl'rcr it to th. workpiece. Then cut out
and .and the d,,,,ign.
Al>-'<EMBLtl FRAMF. After the design is
<Ilt out, gill<' the miwred ends together
a"d ~"
the three-sided frame down to
the lid with oversized shank boles, see Fig.
11. Note: Don't glue the frame down. '!'he
lid mu.,t be allowed to expand and contract
" th than~l" in humidity.)
To k""JI the back miter !'rom opening, I
pn"'llriU(~1 holr. and drove two 4d finish
-w,. throUb'" each ,joint, see Fig. 13.

GUIDE'\

(ClOSS 5ECI1ON)

EDGE GlUE UO
RC4
STOcK

"'4

SET

SIDE

TRIM
'.- lOMAN
00 .. 811

1yo

.' ,

IlOIU. ,.

."

.1

-.-.

-,7 ...

IlIA.ICOU
~
~
_2....

10",[

....

HOU

'1

3"

:::;;---,

BACK TRIM
{IWf

AU. SIDES

'-

"'''-1

-k
TO.

<,:

....

_ ...- ,,
.,~ ->

l'

'8'...

,.- ON

fIGURE 13

.,I...

4'1,'

j,."

.'

~"PlUG

FIGURe 12

aAQ(

FltOM _.

..

,.,.
"'1M

.4 "

r-

SlOE TRIM

(fULL 'ATlHN)

.,
7

FIGURE 14

THE TRAY

All that's left 011 the chest are the tt-.lYand

tbe drawer. J started on the tray.
DSSIGN.The tlllY is actually a tt-a ditional
dovetailed drawer, but with a twist. On a
typical drawer, the front faces the D.'ontof
the case. But on this tray, I had to construct it SO the front actually faced the side.
The critical measurement on the tray is
its depth (from front to back inside the
case). Since it's easier to cut a drawer front
to a precise length than it is to make the

SIDE

X~

BOTTOM
(v,." ptYWOOO. CUT

FRONT

ro

FIT)

~@

SIDE

18"'/..

overall drawer length a precise fit, 1 j"S\

NOTE,
TRAY 510S FACE FRONT
AND BActe OF CHEST

W'
DOVETAILS

STEP 1
'I

turned the drawer sideways in the case.

CUT1'Ji1:! I'IF;Csg. Start building' the tray
by cutting. tray front and back (Q) (Which
are really 0)1the sides) and two tt-.lYsides
(R). All four pieces are cut from ~" stock
to a width of 3~", see Fig. 14.
To determine the exact length of the
D'Ontiback pieces (Q), measure the inside
depth of the cabinet (n'Ont to back) and cut
the tray's Ji'Ontiback y",' less. Then cut
the tray's side pieces to a length 01' 2()".
sour DOV!lTAU.s.After the pieces are
cut to size, rout Vi' dovetails to join the
(OUI' pieces. $00 pages 20 to 2J.
sorroa, Now, cut grooves fOI' the v."
plywood bottom (S) and then cut the bottom (S) to fit, see Detail in Fig. 14.
THE DRAWER

STEP 2
NOTE,
ItOIJT INDS ARST
TO PtttVEtfT

NOTE,

CH1PQUf

CUTMean

Next" I built the drawer, 'l'his time, it's

oriented in the traditional direction.
I started by making a rabbeted drawer
front ('1') from 414stock. To determine the

width of the D'Ont, measure the height of

the opening and add %" (for two %" rabbets). 111><1 subtract V,." (for clearance).
M for the length of the drawer front,
first measure the width of the opening.
Then add %" for the rabbets and subtract
1'1' (for Y,,f' clearance on both sides),
pnOFlLE EDGE.After the drawer front
is cut to size, rout a shouldered round-over
on all four edges, see Stell J in Fig. 15.
'Ihen rout. 0/..' rabbet around the back.
Shop Note: I routed the rabbet in two
passes. First. set the fence for a shallow
bac/aoard$ (left to right) scoring pass to
prevent chipout, Then move the fence and
make a full %"wide cut.

IN

TWO 'ASSES.

seemr

D@AWER

BACK

CUT OTHER PIl!CES. When the drawer

front is complete, cut the sides (U) and

back (V) to size from 'h"thick stock.

PUllS

V," RA8&ET ON
AU FOUR SiDES

JOINRY. \Vhen all the pieces are cut,

rout dovetail joints Oil the COMlet'S (see
page 22). Then cut grooves for the drawer

bottom (W), and cut the bottom to lit.

1'ULl.S. Before assembly. I drilled shank
holes to mount U10carved (or brass) pulls,
see Fig. 16.
If you're using carved pulls, you have to
drill corresponding holes in the back of the
pull. To do this, clamp the pull in place and
mark the pilot holes on the pull with an
awl. Then dl;1I the pilot holes in each pull.
WOOD SMITH

FIGURE 17

HARDWARE

DETAIL

The only thing left; to complete the chest

is to add the hinges, tid support, and lock.
H.INGES. To mOlmt the hinges, first rout
mortises in the top edge of the chest, see
Fig. 17. Then screw the hinge down so the
pin is centered on the edge of the trim.
Next, center the lid (N) on the case and
mark where the hingeis located. Alter outlining the flap on the bottom of the lid, rout
an enclosed mortise to accept the hinge .
LID supPOnTS. Alter the hinges are
mounted, you can add the lid supports at
each end of the chest, see Fig. 17.
LOCK. l~inaUy, I added a lock. Tbe lock
mechanism is mounted so the keylU/l<t is
centered on the width of the chest. (Note:
The keyhole is actually off eente: on the
lock mechanism, see Fig. 18.)
To mount the lock, cut a aeep mortise in
the front panel, see Fig. 18. Then, with
the lock in place, mark the outline of the
flange and rout a shallow mortise for it.
Now, locate the posticn of the keyhole
in the front panel, drill and clean out the
opening, and press the escutcheon in place,
To locate the strike plate, tape it on top
of the lock and close the lid. There are two
prongs that will leave marks on the lid.
After outlining the strike plate, rout two
mortises (one for the plate and a deep one
for (he lock tongue).
FINlSB. I finished the hOI)() chest with
General Finishes' 'l\vcrStep Sealacell.

UD

CASE
A
B
C

End Paneols (2)

'0/'(10 x 17- 20

Fron, Panel (1)

Bade Panel (1)

"/,6

Sholf (')

Troy Runners (2)

1011._35'/.
1)/16 X 17 - 3SV.
'AN ply. 191/. x 34.
''1'00 x 0/..- 34$;'
,/.. xl'/16-10ft.

Drawer RUl1ners (2)

"1" x 2 - 180/.

Side Guides (2)

'/,. xl -

"Ii.

uo
N Ud (I)
0 Side Trim (2)
P Bock Trim (1)
DAWI1II1UIY
0 T.. y m."!mack (2)

,
S

v
W

T"", Side< (2)

1iay i!<>ltom (I)
O'C..... f... t(l}
Oro~r SidctS (2)
Oro\Wt Batie (1)
Boltom (1)

Onrw."

\\ ':lOOSMITH

O"N

CfNTER I.ID

ONCAse",

--

l'A"

1ROUT MORnSES
SuGHn y t.SS

I 'It LONG.
W

lJ4-

rO"N

DON~
MOImSE

THAN KALf mE

WIDTH HINGE

END PANE.L

OUT BACK

lHI(KHESS Of

EDGE

KNUCKLE

CROSS SECTION
Non;,
LOCK
MORnSE

o Ce:NTER
UNE

wla SE

OFfSfT
ON CHEST

Of CHST
ROUT OUT

atmR

SHAUOW
MORTISE
FOR PlATE

MORTISE

ON nUCKNE$.S
OF FRONTPANEl

ROUT
DEE~

MORT'ts1i
""'100<

r-..::::--,_:>lONGUe

$Mlf {OJ (:I.It from

24~
43" ,,,"I
01 Jf." plywood.

Troy 8olfom (S) and

Drawer 8oHom CW) cut

I
'M.-

SUGH1I.Y
PASTW

f<on!ma,k (~)
'0/,0. x 4~ - 37%
Sides (2)
"1'0 x 4"1. - 21"1.
Molding
'o/'6x-l4-10ft.
f<ont Fill., S,,; p (1) 10/'1 X ''116-3411.
x 511,0 _ 1
Vert. Filler Strip (2)

G
H
I

fOOl OF ntlM

CUTTING DIAGIIAM

Owrou Dim.: 37o/."w x 21 .."d x 217/."'h

Top Trim
BASe

SHOULD

TOP 1ltlM

MATERIALS LIST

CENTfR PIN
ON SACK

leV.

'0/,. x 21'/t

- 37'1,

'0/,. x 3-

20'1..

't. x 5 -

36',4

y, X 3'/2 -

18/,6

fron"! 48'" JC. 48'" ~t

of V." ptywoocI

p
11

7';''' 96"
H

Fj:

"
B

0
L

~ X SV..- 321/a
'/ .." ply. 1BV.. X 32

v"x 5'1..-19

...l

;;x3'h-20
'/4" ply. 181/,6 X t 9Y"
171'6 X 6 - 33'1..

vzmzwmzzd

___

C_h_err_yDresser
AN HEIRLOOM FOUR-DRAWER CHEST

AbouL a year ago (in Woodsmit/, No. 53),

we featured plans fo. a seven-drawer lingerie dresser. Since lJlat time we've received many requests for another project
of the same design.
Thi$ cherry FQur-dr~werdresser is designed with the same heirloom quality.
And as with the lingerie dresser it's also
built with frame and panel construction,
dovetailed drawers, and a solid-wood top.
SIDE fRAMES

1 began building the dresser by assembling

the two frame and panel side names. Each

side Ii-ameconsists of a top and bottom rail,
two stiles, and a v.," plywood panel,
Start work by cutting four rails from 41<l
stock (0/,." to '0/001' actual thickness), Gilt
the top rails (A) 3" wide and the bottom
rail, (B) 3% wiele. Then cut all fow' rails
to a common length of 141',/', see Pig. 1.
CORNERS. While cutting the $ide frame
stiles (Gl, r also cut the front and back f~ce
stiles (I) and Ii:). These face stiles oe
joined to the side stiles to form an 1.,shaped corner assembly, ,:efEll' to Fig. 6.
STILllS. All of these stiles are cut Irom
414 "rock. Rip the four side stiles (C) 2%"
wide, and the four face stiles (0, E) 1'l('"
wide, see Fig. l. Then cut all eight pieces
to a common length of 25'0/..t'.
Note: Thls length depends Oil tne number and size of the drawers. Since I W>U1ted
to use a dovetail jig to make the drawers,
r had to make the drawer heights a multiple of %", refer to page 20. Once the
drawers, rails, and clearance between each
drawer were added up, the lengtb of the
stiles came to 2.~"y,(.
JOINERY

AlWr all of the rails >U1dstiles are cut to

finished size, the joints that hold then, 1.0-

gether tan be cut,

....
DADOS.Before assembling the frames,
r switched over to \\,0.'[< on the ft'On~and
back face stiles (0, E). The fu'St step here
is to layout the position of the four 1/,'
dadoes that at" needed to hold the ralls
and runners that support the drawers,
Shop Note: At this point, things ean get
a tittle cOlllltsing since you need mirrored
sets of pieces. 1'0 avoid confusion. I stood
the foul' face stiles on end as they would
appeal' in the dresser, see Fig, 2, Then I
marked the '-roP" of "'10h piece and put
an "X" em the outside edge of each piece.
Once the pieces are oriented, the dadoes
can be laid out, The first dado on .11 four
face stiles is located %" down f1'OI1\
the top

end. Then three more dadoes are laid out

to accommodate the three difl'E\l:entdrawer
~izes,500 the layout shown in Fig. 1.
AlW,' laying out the dadoes, raise the
dado blade to a height of \4" and set the
rip fence as a stop ",.. Irom the inside of
tile blade. 500 Fig. ~. Now check that t,J",
blade matches tbe layout line and then cut
the dado,
Next, turn the workpiece end for end,
check the layout line on that end, and CUI.
a dado on the bouom end.
After cutting tbe dadoes on both ends of
aU four pieces. move the fence until the
dado blade matches the other layout lines
and cut the remaining' dadoes.

GlIOOYEFOil PANELS. &'tal't by cutting

a !I.,"-deep groove on the i"8id~edges of
the rails (A, B) and the side stiles (G) to
hold the plywood panels, see Fig. 1. Center this groove on the thickness of the
workpiece,
Shop Note: The lXl"els are made from
v... plywood. But most hardwood plywood
actually measures less than v.,' thick. So
cut the grooves just wide enough to accept
the actual thickness of the plywood panels.
TENONS. Atb!r cutting the grooves, r cut
stub tenons 011 the ends of all foU)'rails to
fit into the grooves ill the stiles. '!'he length
of the tenons matches the depth of the
grooves (~l
and the thickness matches
the width of the grooves, see Fig. 4.

10

WOODSlvUTH

CORI'IERJOIN'l'. When all the dadoes are

cut, you can begin work on the joint that
holds the face stiles (D, E) to the side stiles
(C). This is a combination of a rabbet with
a tongue and groove joint, see Fig. 4.
The first step is to cut a groove on the
inside face of the face stiles (D, E). Position the lip fence SA> the distance to the outside of the blade equals the thickness Of
the side stile (C), see Step 1 in Fig. 5.
(Note; Be sure this groove is cut on the
face with the foW'dadoes.)
RABBET NEEDEO. The next step is to cut
a rabbet next to the groove. This rabbet
is not really part o[ the joint. it's to hide
part of the joint. That is, without the rabbet, the dadoes (in the face stiles) would
be eXI>OSed
on the sides of the dresser,
To prevent this, r cut a rabbet the same
depth as tbe dadoes on lhe inside face of
each face stile (D, El). The side stile (C)
then fits into this rabbet; and hides tbe
dadoes, see Fig. 4.
ClTI' RABIlET. To cut the rabbet, ,,,ii\(!
the dado blade %" high, see Step 2 in ~'ig.
5. Then a<ljust the fence so tile inside edge
of the blade is aligned with the bottom of
the dado. (YOU may want to sneak up on
the cut, using a test piece.) Now stand each
face stile on edge with th~ outside ("X'~
edge down, and cut the rabbet. Afte, the
(:lit is made, the dadoes should have disappeared up to the groove.
BACK RAIl8E'l'.To complete the back
face stiles, cut a rabbet on the back edge
for the plywood back, see Step
(Note
the rabbet position in relation to the "X",)
TONGUE. The last step is to make 8
tongue on the side stiles (C) to fit the
groove in the face stiles (0, E). To make
this cut, lay lhe stile flat on the saw and
raise the blade high enough to produce a
tongue that fits the groove, see Step 4.

a.

roa

IRGURE 2
RABBET
MARl( "X... Pl.YWOODGACK::>
ONOUfS,IOE
~

(;---..
Top

WOODSMITH

III

t 1
1f

,'If .:

~,,:
..

@
@

1-

fRONT
FACE
STILE

"<>UK<

USE fliP

STOf'

A
AGAINSI

DlSlANC,

L~

FJlOHII
.ACK.~~CE
r",t";\
~~

ONLY

.-1

DE"'" OF

e-, "

STRIPOf WOOD
ONtO EDGE to

flROlCT GROOVE
WHILE ctAMPlNG

'-

...-"

...__.___

MAKE SURE SlOE )_

FRAMl IS fLAt FROM
CORNE TO COQNER

GROOVfON
"0Nl1BAQ(
FACE snLES

WIO'Tli Of
TONGUfj ~

'-.J

nus
s.~~

r;-.....

CHECK FOIt PROPEIt AUGNMENT

OF TOP/80TTOM tAil OAOQES

TOP EDGESlOE SIII@

MEASutfME'NT
MAY VARY

~__
-

'0./

......_,.........
<,

t::
NOTE,

,- @---

CARp( TA.. A

~
LENGTH OF
TONGUE MAtCHeS

~1_""5>

P1~

L FRONlIBACK
~
fACE STILE D

INStOt COAHU MUST 8t SQUARE AruUST ClAMP PlfSSURE IF

,.?~~

"I

fWSE DADO
SlADE Jh~

-~-: ,I

FIGURE 6

NKfSSAI!Y

WffH

nn DOW" -_

,- I-snus

,Jr'.

L{:J_EL

HIGH

NOTE,

_L ~ .\,-.

1/,,"

I'I,VWOOD

o~ ')

OUTSIDe OGe

BACKFAa!

LOWEA OJAOO
BlADe 10
'It" HtGH

cur

D"EPTHOF'

00 Nor

aNTE_EO

OUTSiO.',~E
1")(')
MOVE FENCl

.........
S
GStOOVE _

.r -;-...

+:1:
3

~V

ON Sloel(

......,

R3l
CUT
TONGUE
TO fIT

"Al)()

~.~

"-

I!<ICIC"'SS OF_
SlOE STiLt ('~'.'

'....

I-

AUGN

<,

@
TOP

F-~___

y.xv.-

IJ__<-,

IN.SIOE
ANQ-

OUTSIDE
'OG~.t:!,,1

SET II....
&lADE

_':;S

E~S
Of StiLE
1 fOR POSmON5)

DADO

SlOi!

Y OVl

,S

ii(":

DOSOO

snu

I1..Ai

STilES

RABBET/GROOVE @
JOINT
C

I~
f-9--~ I/,L!
.~.._,_ B,~f--~

'I.OADO
1IlAIlE,
'Y."H~

SIDE fIIAME
FAa

sn~
c'"t- .

/@-'I

t.

ASSEMBLY IS
POsmONOBETWEEN

Hl.ONJFAce

RONT/BACK
FACS STIlES

'..
.
1-- -

"

FIGUR.E4

FiNCEAS

~I/."

OUTSIDE EDGES

/J-

DETAil
CUT 'tWo MIRRORED
ssrs OF 'ACE $11lES

MARX"X"'ON

i-,--' c

1.~
f.-.w--J

t r

_\.

<,

- - t-

.~

:v,. 'I.'"

i~

RAaIIET fOR
ft.YWOOO BACK

'I."

--

'(." 1/.'"

FRONT
FACE
STILE

1-'

-'1 'I.-

ASSEMBLY

Now that all the comer joint>;are cut, <b'yassemble a frame to take measurements
[01' the plywood J)llnels (F). (Cut the panels
so there's a 'AG clearance on the height
and width, see Fig. 1.)
Next, the D'3l1les can be assembled in
two steps, First, I glued the corners,
!.'TILE TO S1'U,f:,Start by gluing a side
stile (C) to a faee stile (D, E) to Conn the
four eorners, see Fig. 6. Make sur. the
dadoes face in, and cheek that the corners
are perfectly square.
FRAMES. Alter all fOUL' corners are assembled, glue and clamp them to the rails
(A and )3) and the plywood panel (F) to
Corm a side frame, see Fig. 6.
Shop Note; Before gluing these frames,
double-check to make sure you have two
mirrored sides and the '''roP'' label on all
four stiles is actually on the top. Once
everything is lined up, glue each side assembly together with the pieces flat
againSt the clamps and the ends flush.

flOf' VIEW)

B~K
FACE~S

..

20"

,/""

511GHn y

~,

;;

11

FRONT/BACK

RAILS

Once the side frames were complete, I

began work on the drawer support pieces,
CUT RAILS. Start by cutting eight JloQnt
and back rails (G) to sise from 414 stock,
see Fig. 7. Then cut two rabbets on the
front edge of each rail to create a tongue
that fits into the dadoes that were cut on
the face stiles (D, E), see Detail in Fig. 7.
Next, drill a countersunk shank hole in
the two top front rails, see Fig. 7. These
holes are used later to screw the drawer
divider (J) in place, refer to Fig. 9.
ASSEMBLY. Now glue and clamp the rails
into the dadoes on the front and back face
stiles, see Fig. 8.
FACING STRIPS

<ENIr.ED

After the rails are glued in place, facing

sbipa can be added to the front edge of the
front rails. There are two different sizes of
facing strips, see Fig. 8. The top 31111 bottom strips (H) are wider (10/.,'') than the
two mid<Uestrips (1) (''Vi,,).
CUT (lRQOVF..s. After cutting the sbip"
to rough length, CUt a groove on the back
face of each strip to iit onto the tongue on
the front rails, see Fig. 8. The groove on
the top and bottom strips (8) is offset on
the width, The groove on the two middle
snips (1) is centered on the width.
Then cut all the facing strip" to length
to fit between the front stiles and glue
them in place, see Fig. 9.
ORAWEn DIVIDER. A vertical divider (J)
is added to divide the two top drawers, see
Fig. 9. Cut the dividerl~ wide and to
length to fit the opening between the top
two facing strips, (Measure at one end
rather than the middle in case the rails are
bowed.) Then screw it in place so it's
centered on the opening.

QPENING

DRAWER GUIDES

NOTE:
GlUE UP TOfIJ'BOllOM

RAlLS AR$T.
CHE<:K UNIl'
FOR SQUARE
FIGURe 9

Q)
DRAW"
O1VIOEJI

118.x 1 '1,.

'" 1"000SCREW

,
PRE-ORIU ~,"

PIlOT HOLE
IN

DRAWlR

aont

ENOS

OM'"

IN lOP

RGUR

@
,,//'

OUTSIDE
GUIDE

D.ETAIL

a:

DETAil

SHANK
HOlE

r"h~
#8)( 1~
", WOODSCREW

12

Next, drawer guides are mounted to the

rails, There are two tyj)(j$ of guides those along the Outside of the cabinet and
those behind the drawer divider (.1), see
Fig. 10. Both types consist of a runner (K,
M) and a side guide (L, N).
OUTSIDE CUJl)ES- To make the outside
guides, first, cut eight runners (,K) 1'I."
wide. Then cut them to length to fit be-tween the front and bsck rails, see Fig. 10.
Next, cut eight side guides (L) from lit
stock. To determine their width, measure
from the inside corner to the edge of the
front stile and add 'Id', see Detail. Then
cut them 2'h" longer than the runners so
they hallg over 1y." 011 each end.
Now screw a side guide to the top of a
runner (to make a complete outside drawer
guide), and glue this unit to the front and
back rails, see Fig. 10.
MIDDLE ORAWER GUlDES. The middle
two drawer runner" (M) are cut 2" wide,
and the guides (N) are cut v..' wider Will
WOODSMlTH

--

the thickness of the d~...wer divider. Centel' these guides on the runners and screw
them down. Then mount these units behind the divider, see Detail in Fig. 10.

AGURE 11

CHAMFERS
\Vhen aUof the drawer guides were glued

in place, [ routed stopped chamfers on the

four comers of the cabinet using a chamfer

bit v.'ith a pilot. To stop the chamfers at
the top and bottom, clamp a stop block
flush with each end of the stile, see Fig.
11. (Option) You can also rout a chamfer
around the inside of the frame by using a
V -groove bit and a special guide on the
router, see Wood$mith No. 49, page 23.)

RGUR 12

BASE

After routing tbtl chamfers, [ began work

on the base. The base i. a bullnose frame

glued on top of a kiekboard frame.

BULLNOSE J'RAlItE. To make the bullnose frame, cut a frame front (0) and two
fl-ame sides (P) to a width of 20/'/', see
Fig. 12. Then rough cut the front 43" long
and the sides 23" long.
Before cutting the pieces to final length,
rout a bullnose edge on the pieces, First.
rout a V.' round-over on the top edge, see
Step 1 in ~'ig. 12. Then, to rout the bottom edge, switch to a V," round-over bit
raised 0/,," above the table, see Step 2.
After the pieces are routed, miter the
front piece (0) on both ends so the length
is 2'1." longer (from long point \(I long
point) than the cabinet's width. Then miter
each side piece (P) on one end and cut them
J V," longer than the cabinet's depth.
Now glue the miters together \(I form
the three-sided frame, (Hold the pieces on
a Oat surface until the glue sets.)
KlCKBOARD. The rest of the base eonsists of a kickboard front, back, and two
sides, Cut these pieces to a width of 3W',
see Fig. 13. Then miter both ends of the
kickboard front and back: (Q) so the length
of each piece is W' shorter than the bullnose name. Next, miter both ends of each
kickboard side (R) so the length is \4"
shorter than the bullnose name sides.
t<ER1' AND SPLINE. To help keep the
miters aligned while clamping, cut a kerf
in each miter. '!'hen cut a spline to fit the
ked', see Joint Detail in Fig. 13.
ASSJ;:MBI,.Y.
After the joints are cut, glue
the kickboard frame together. Then glue
the bullnose frame to the top of the kick.
board, see Fig. 14. One final step is to glue
a Giler strip to the top of the kiekboard
back, see Detail in Fig. 14. This strip
creates a 'I.' rabbet for the cabinet back.
BASI' TO CASE. To attach this base as
sembly to the cabinet, drill shank holes
oompletely through the bullnose frame,
see Fig. 14. N",1;, turn the cabinet upside
down and position it on the base. Then drill
pilot holes, and screw the base to the cabinet, see Fig. 15.
WOOOSt.flTH

ill

8!JJJ.l'jOS~ fRAME

~~

OiECK CORNfftS
Fest $QUARE

~~~~.

=,

FIGURE 13

f====;'K~IC~K~8~O~A:R!):::F:RAM:E~===iI'I
~'h'
;:;

,N'. ../'

AU. FO~UR
CO.NUS
MJTtREO AND

ilDE

....f - _",k

.~

-==:;

-41W

THIRO:

KlCKBOAJD

SACt<2

~ACK
<,
~

J. .

~o
-_

ARST:
GLUE AND CLAMP

eUUHQSE fa.AMi TO
KICQOAJlO FRAME

"

CUI Sl'UNE TO

0 "'"

IlACl<SOfSOlll
faAM~~~

'>0.

y,;'~...,

U~C~
,./

~~V')
-_ - W ,

'A" OViRHANG

CORNER
DETAil

~'K

c-I~

t::::.c ?:.=

'II'

m SAW KUF

: ADDRIJ.EII
SllllPTOlOPOF

DRill y....
SHANJ<HOLES [
FORMOUNTlNG~

-_

't

...,
SECOND

>~,

"7'''''W

r..._t"

II

__ 'v.. _
~I

&_'\If\0." "

'20~,j_

,..._- /

AU. PIECES"'4 STOCK

to CASE

l-f

//

@FRONT

AGURE 14

/,1 c>

@BACK

../

JOINT DETAIL
A.

o~_ ../

RJUERSllIIPFOltMS
A. vi' IA.8UT

fOil: BA(JiCPAml ...........

fRONT AND SlDS

DETAil i' \ I"'"

CROSS
5ECt1ON

')

ck..
FRAMING

,/~'. . ~

..~,
13

MOUNT TOP FlUSH WJTH

.... ~. SIDe O' CASE fl!,AM-

NOTE:
EDGE GLUE
4/11 enA.,

FORM lOP

GW& ~NG

RESAW A

To complete the cabinet, I started work on

tbe solid-wood top (S).
IjIJlLl) UP TOP, Begin by edge-gluing 414
stock to make a blank that's 23' wide and
4;~ long. Mer it's dry, plane it flat and
cut it to finished size: 2Y....longel' than the
csbinet's width and lv.,' wider than its
depth, see Fig. 16.
ROUTPROFILE.Next, rout the two sides
and the front, creating the same bullnose
profile as on the base frame - except the
'I." round-over is on tJ ie top edge.
ATl'ACHING TOP. in order to fasten the
top to the esbinet and to create a screwing
surface fOI" the plywood back, 1 added a
fiDel' strip on top of the top hack rail, see
Detail A ill Pig, 16. Now, to secure the
top, fil'SLcenter it on the cabinet (flush wiLh
the back). and clanJp it down. Then drill
angled SCrewholes up through the top rails
and drawer guides, see Detail B.
After drilling these holes, remove the
top and enlill'll" the shank boles so the top
can expand and contract with changes in
humidiLy. Then screw the top in place.

TO ~. THICK

MOLDING STRIPS

__-+

STOCk '1'0

NOTE:

THE DRESSER'S TOP

TOP HANGS OVER 1'14" ON

SIDES AND RilONT

-1

-211/," __

TOP

STRIPS

ON FRONT AND SlOES WHERi:

c,ASE MEETS lOP AND
SASE FRAME UN IT

RGURE" 17

.0UTt.
TAttlE
FENCE

ll/J~WIDE STl!IP
effORE' IIOUnNG

ROUT '/''''

cove

ON ONeEDqE_
MAKE SEVERAL PASSES

r-''''"~/

t 'hS\ ,ill, j V"

SUP WA$lE

TPP DRAWERS

DRAWER
FRONT
DETAil

(MAkf TWO)

-er:

, j;
"--"".,

LFRONT

171

.~.y/
@

36"

FRONT

~".L/
~~,
\ C/ r~c
'I."

3:

FOR DRAW!R

'"
80nOM

14

~.

r-1Z-BEVEl
L

r \

I-~",~"=~~"\

MIDPULQ,RAWE8

BOTTOM

FROM STOQC

LEAVING A W' X %,..

WIDE MOlDING STRlP

STOPSON 80nOM
OF DRAWER SAW

M;l.CHlN~CUT

COVErAllS

To dress up the cabinet, 1 added molding

strips above the base and below the top.
To make these molding strips (T), start by
resawing some l1h" wide stock to r})t'
thick. Then .'Out a Yf cove on one edge,
see Fig. 17. Finally, trim the molding off
the outside edge, see Fig. 18.
MITER.Now miter Lhe molding stlips to
at around the front ana sides of the cabinet and glue them in place, see Fig. 16.
DRAWERS

AMl' the molding strips are in place, the

only thing lell, is to make the drawers.
CUT'l'II Pf8CES. Begin by cutting the
drawer fronts (t), Y, CCl 11'0111 414 stoek
SO they',-e y,,' less in both width and length
than the openings in the cabinet. (This ill
Va.' less in length than the distance between the drswer guides (L, N). You can
cut them ~ghtly longer and sang them
after assembly, refer to page 23.)
Next, cut the drawer backs (V, Z, DD)
Irom ~. stock the same size as the fronts.
Then cut the drawer sides (W, A.A, EE)
from \4" stock the same width as the
fronts, and to a uniform le.ngth of 180/.
JOINERY.Once all the pieces are cut to
size, rout dovetail joints on each corner
(see pages 20 to 21). and cut grooves for
the plywood drawer bottoms.
Before assembly, cut a notch on the bottom edge of each back piece to fit around
a drawer stop pad (which is added later,
see Fig. 20). Then cut the plywood bottoms
(X, BB, FF) to tit between the grooves.
RAIS!::TIlE PANELS. To complete the
drawer fronts, I made chamfer cuts to
create a raised panel effect, (see W0<Jd..
WOODSMITH

S'I.mh, No. 53). Then drill holes for the

drawer pulls, see Figs, 21 and 22.

ASSEMBLY. Finally, the drawers can be
glued up with the bottoms in place.
GLIJ)E Sf RIPS. '!'here are a few more
details, to complete the drawers. To help
the drawers glide smoother, I added nylon
snips to the drawer runners, see Fig. 21.
TIleS(! strips also raise the drawer to create
a slight gap below each drawer front.
Shop Note: AfI.er the glide strips 81'e in
place, the top edges of the drawer may
have to he planed down fo.a smooth fit.
DRAWERSTOPS.To stop the drawers
from being pushed too far into the cabinet,
I glued a drawer stop pad to each front
rail, see Fig. ZO.
Also, to prevent the drawers from being
pulled all the way out, I screwed [Ul'II'
buckles to tbe back of the Cront rails above
the pulls, see Fig. 22.
FINISIL To complete the cabinet, J added
a v.' plywood back and then finished the
entire dresser "ith General Finishes' TwoStep SealaceIJ system.

I"GU.~l<

\T

WIOTHOF RA!IET

'.!

CUTDRAwtR PUll.
SCREWS:y."tONG

"-...__ ORAWEitfRom IN
CLOStO POSITION

DRAWER Sf Of'

, STIll.

CUTTING DIAGRAM

t4'1.

IV,. X 3 _

3._ 14~.
2-$/. - 2S't.

8
C

B<lttom Roils (2)

SIde stll .. (4)

l~/I')(

mnl Face Stn .. (2)

Sad< Fa S~).. (2)
Sid. Panel. (2)

'''/,.x I y.. - ,S'o/t.

I,

SlOE FRAMES

E
f

I _)

-,

Qv.erall Dim,: 417/."w )( 21 V."d .. 30Jo/i."h

1.3/16.)(

~I

MATERIALS LIST

A TopR.;), (2)

'A" Fh WOOOSCREWS~--.......

AnACH BACK WITH #6)(

I~

lo/,ax l.i-25';y..

V.I' ply. 14lo/,. x 20'1.

INTERIORFRAMING
G

Fronl/Back Raih: (8)

H Top/~Im.faring (2)

R.n l'o<;n9 (2)

Mid.

ORrwor Dividor (T)

OvHlde Runnel'S (8)

Outstde Gujd~ (8)
Middle Runnen (2)

l
M

N /MIdI.G.id.. (2)
BASE/fOP
o Frome front (I)

FromoSidos(2)

10/,. x 1',4_

38

',.x 1'1.-36'4

'0/ x '0/,.- 361/,

'0/,. x l'/,-6V..

':Y;. xl'I,

15-'/&

~ x '%, - 18Y.
'o/to.x 2_15'1/.
'Ii 'X 't.- 18.

20/. _ .,1'7,4
'o/i.)C2%-21Y.
lo/iq

J(

Kkkboordfr./Sock (2) 'lit x 31/2-4lV.

KidtboardSide(2)
''Y,,, x 31/, - 20Y.
S Top (1)
1:JjI',o J( 21 V._417/.
T Molding Strips: (6)
% j( 0/, - 15 ft.
TOP DRAWERS
U ",,"IS (2)
lY,. x 6'/,- 17'"1/~2
V 8od<s (2)
'A x 6'/, - 17'/~
W Sid.. (4)
'12)(6'A1- 18$/.

''tift x 9y,." 96'--<

80....... (2)

MIDDLE ORAwtR
Y f",nl (1)
Z Bod< (')
AA Si.... (2)

88 _(')
BOTTOM DRAWER
CC ""nt (1)
DO Bod< (1)
EE S;.... (2)
FF Sanom (I)

GG CABINET BACK

WOODSlI.flTH

'1,." ply. 'V,.

x'" -

'V,."

x 5"''' 96~
(tWO 60".0$)

'I 7'/0" 96'

cc

I . I

v
,

lI

v
, :,

~:

v.- .x 911," 9O"II:::=ii"==O:::!~==;,;;:.

'~222~

"[Z'

, ,

AA

w
Iltt'li'

"A

~%j

I,,,~

tm
Fa

=:::.I'z2 ZZ:2Z:2:E:22:2Z,"Z,;;Ji:Z=2
Ztz:EZZZZ:2Z:22::lI!;:z;attE=zt.;::l

181t" x 17

36

Y2x7-36
'It x 7 - 18"/.
F

BB

FF

GG

')Ito. x 7"/._36
'.4 x 7'4-36

~
~
F

'I." ply. 189'/,. X 3S~

,/''' ply. 37'/. x 260/.

GRAIN DlIIKTION

c:::::>
l5

Dovetail Jig

SHOP-MADE JIG FOR CUTIING HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS

When I first started to build this dovetail
jig, I thought the advantage was going to
be the low coot. Dovetail jigs are priced
from $50 up, but you can make the one
shown here for about $30. All you need is
some standard offthe-shelf hardware, five
board teet of hardwood, and a piece of v...
MasO.lite to make your 0\'1'0 "comb" template. (A kit is also available that includes
a pre-cut plastic template,
Sources,
page 2<1).

'"*'

SOLVING DESIGN PROBLEMS

As Iworked on the design, Ibegan to think

about what I didn't like about the dovetail
jigs I've used before. The main problem
I've had with other jigs is the system for
holding the workpieces tight to the jig. (If
the wood shifts even slightly, the joint
won't fit together eorrectly.)
On most jigs the workpieees are held
with metal bars. The bars are tightened so there are 2" wings overhanging on each
down with wing nuts or knobs. But you end. (The wings are used for clamping the
just can't tighten them enough to keep the jig down to a bench or table, see photo.)
wood from moving around as you rout.
CUT TO wnrra. Once the base is asAnd, on some of the jigs, the metal bar sembled, trim it down to a finished width
of 6', see Fig. I. IVhen trimming the u'Ont
bends as the wing nuts are lightened.
CAMS. To solve these problems, the jig
edge, make SU,!'e it's eXQt!"90 to the top.
ORlU. BOL'$. Afte!' the base block was
shown here 1I5e1 cams. They're much easier on the fingers and work faster than trimmed, 1 dlilled six holes in it. First,
wing nuts. And you can apply considera- <bill two 'helia. pilot holes in the top, II';'
bly more pressure down against the workfrom the front edge (see Fig. 1), to hold
pieces. (We've cut well over 100 joints with stop blocks that are added later (refer to
thi$ jig, and 1 haven't seen a workpiece Fig. 19 on page 19).
shift out of position yet.) It's also easier to
The other four holes are for the t,/'
quickly change the pieces if you're doing a threaded inserts that will accept eye bolts
number of joints.
for the cams. refer to Fig. 7. However,
befo!'e drilling the holes for the inserts, I
PRESSURE BARS. However, witb all that
pressure building up from the cams, you counterbored 'V,.di.. holes 'It" (Ieep to
need strong bars that won't bend. (I used
1%thick hard maple to make the bars.)
BASE

The first step UI making the jig is to build

the base. It's built up from three pieces of
"'4 hardwood (;y". to '0/,,' actual thickness). (Note: YGU could also use one piece
of 8/4 stock and one piece of 414 stock.)
It.'s important to Use a tight-grained hardwood such as maple so the threaded inserts
won't pull out.
CUT AND GLUE BASE PIECES. f began
by cutting two base top pieces (A) to rough
dimensions of 6th' wide and 19" long and
laminating the pieces together faee-to-face.
After this blank is dry, cut iLto a finished
length of 18", see Fig. 1.
Next, I cut a base bottom piece (B) from
414 stock 1;0 a rough width of 6Y,' and
finished length of 22.' Then screw and glue
this piece onto the bottom of the top blank

16

make a space fm' the springs that hold the

pressure bars away from the jig, see Detail
in Fig. 1.

After counterboring, [ drilled a y,'.<Jin.

hole to accept the threaded in5(O!1..Thi~
hole has to be 2" deep so the eye bolt can
be screwed all the way through the
threaded insert, refer to Fig. 2.
Shop Note: Most 0/,,1' (inside diameter)
threaded inserts tighten into a W-d.ia.
hole, but some require a smaller diameter
hole. Drill the holes to match the specific
inserts you have.
M:OUNT JNSERTS. Aft;m. the holes are
drilled, tighten the inserts down $0 they're
set v... below the surface, see Detail in
Fig. i. To do this I tightened two nuts
against each other on a
bolt and then

0/0.

SECOND,
GlUE

FIRST,

TOTOf'flec:es

GLUE TOP PIeces

TOGTHfR.
THEN CUT TO

ANIS'HEO...... G'I'H

TRiM TO
CORNEas

FINAL WIOTH

,
SECOND.
DRIlL 'h~HOlE

WOODSMlTfl

screwed on an insert. To help the insert

cut into the maple, T rubbed some candle
wax on the threads of the insert and
tightened down the bolt with a socket
wrench, see Fig. 2.

PRESSURE BARS AND CAMS

When all four of the threaded inserts were
screwed in place, Ibegan work on the pressure bars and cams, These pieces are cut
from three blanks that measure 2" wide
and iT long, see Fig. 3. (Note: These
blanks can be b,ult up from two pieces of
4 f4 stock or one piece of 8 f4 stock - just
so they'l-e about 1~" to 1%" thick.)
PRESSURE-BARS. To make the two pressure bars (C), cut two of the blanks square
(1%0" x 1%" and to a finished length of
Iv'. Then drill o-dla. holes l' from each
end to accept the eye bolts, see Fig. 3.
CAllIS. The four whistle-shaped cams (0)
can be cut from the other blank. r started
by squaring up one edge of the blank and
then cut it in half lengthwise, see Fig, 4LAY OUT CAMS. Next, I made a poster
board patten) of a cam. To achieve the
gradual tightening action of the cam, the
rounded bottom of each cam is made from
two diffe,-ent radii (%" and 1"). These radii
start at two different center points (v."
apart), and interseet at the bottom. (These
two radii create the cam action that exerts
gradually increasing pressure on the bar.)
After tl'l111sfeITingthe patterns to each
workpiece, 1 drilled a !(F-diameter hole
(centered on the l' radius centerpoint) in
each cam to accept axle pins, see Fig. 4.
CI1I' SLOT. Before cutting the earns to
final shape, cut a o/hl....wide slot through
each end of the cam blanks to accept the
eye bolts. [ did this by standing the piece
up on end 0)\ the table saw and backillg it
with a 2x4 block, see Fig. 5.
Cut a I:y,."-deepslot centered on each
end, see Step 1 in Fig. 5. To widen the slot
to 'Yi,', move the rip fence slightly away
from the blade and repeat the cut. Then
turn the piece around SO the opposite face
is against theience and make another cut.
Continue moving the fence slightly and
cutting on opposite sides (Step 2) until the
0/,," eye bolt slides into the slot.
CU'I' TO SIIAPE. Once the eye bolt fits
tbe slot, cut and sand each cam eo Iinal
shape . Also, slightly soften all of the sharp
edges, see Fig. 6.
CUTAXLE PIN. Next, I cut a piece of '1>."
rod to act as an axle pin through the eye
bolt, see Fig. 7. (Shop Note: You can cut
tbis from a long rod, or nOOln the unthreaded section of a !(", boll)
EYE BOLT. The eye bolt is just a standard 0/,( X 5' eye bolt purchased Dooma
hardware store. After using the jig for
awhile, J discovered that the eye section
started to uncurl when extreme pressure
was applied to the cam. To prevent this, I
had it welded shut, see Fig. 7.
WOODSMlTII

DRIVE ,." I.D. INStRT

BELOW SURfAce 1/1'

(TWO PJECES)

fIGURE 4

.~

~F:U~~~SI:Z:E:C:AM:::PA:n::E:RN:_

I-

3"

O~lU'I.."
DlA. HOLE

CANt

__

1/,"'--1

'x

~I-....

,.

MARK CENTER OF
...- t- RADIUS AND
DRIU '){' 0lA. HOO

RAOIUS

,.

.,"''

RADIUS

8'

CUT C/I.N, SIAN,X IN HAll.

THEN DRAW lwO CAMS ON EACH peEeE

FIGURE S

DETAil

AlP
FENct

WASTE

FIGURE 4

AGURE 7

'h" II lV."I'
ROD ACTS
AS AXI. PIN

SUGMTI.Y SAND
AU. SMAR,
EDGES

---Y,.lC

$~

En 8QlT

17

AGURe s

"COMB': TgMP!.A!E
NOTE: M.AU: tEMPlATE FROM- 14" MASONltt
fIIE-MADE trMPlAl'{,

TEMPLATE

After the jig base block and esms were

OR PURCHASE

complete.l began work on the "comb" template that guides the router. Note: We're
offering a pre-cut plastic template in a kit
(see page 24), but you can make your OWh

SEE SOURCES, PAG!; 2~

fi'Olll ~"

fiGURe 10~

FIGURE 9
AUXlUARY feNCE

Iln.~
..~

~--

- -f) .

NOTE:
MO'IE fENCE: SO KEY IS
EXACTLY ~r.."FROM,~.-,
DADO BLADE

CHAM'"
TOP _..
EDGES

G~UtA 7/10'INOEXING KFf INTO

AItST NOTCH IN FENCe

fIGURE II
AU~UARY FENCE

DETAIL

.....

~
6'ACK UP WORKMECE
wrTH IMSONnt

v...

TO PREVENt

CHI POUT

___..~'

AGURI! 13

lIN.GlE BRACKU

( wAST<

CUTOff

WASTE
WIOTH Of St,OT
SHOULD MATCH

CUT TEMPlATE
f'lU$H Wlnt 910$
Of BASE

,- .;.-",,,-_ .,
.

VI,

!\faRonite.

This template must be extremely accurate or the dovetail joint won't fit together
correctly, I found that the most accurate
method of cutting the notches in the comb
was to use a box joint jig. (To build a box
joint jig. see Woods",;!" No. 42.)
CI)T N01'C1IES.Start by cutting a piece
of Masonite 4" wide and 24" long, see Fig.
S, The next step is cutting the notches.
Since a W' dovetail hit uses a 11",' (outside diameter) router guid& bushing, the
notches have to be exactl\' 0/0." wide.
(Check the width cut by youI' dado blade
by making a noteh in a test piece and see
if your guide bushing fits.)
When the notch width is C01'1'OOt, raise
the blade 1" high and then screw a tall
auxiliary fence to tbe miter gauge. Now,
stand the Masonite on edge and cut a notth
6" from One end, see Fig. 9.
U'lJ)Il~G 'KBY.After the first notch is
cut. cut a
indexing key and glue it
into the notch in the fence, see Fig. 10.
Once the glue dries, trim the top of the key
slightly and chamfer the edges so the
workpiece will slil) over it .easily.
Then, move the fence OV(~l'and screw it
to the mitel' gauge so the key is ir.J.<Ictly
11.. " from the dado blade. (Note: This distance has to be extremely accurate and
may take some "fine tuning." The box. joint
jig shown in Woodsmillt No. 42 has an adjustable fence that makes this adjustment
easier.)
cor RIlMAIN1NC NOTCHES.Ooce the jig
is set. up, place the first notch over the key
and cut second notch in the template.
(Note: I backed up the workpleee with
another piece of v.i" Masonite 00 prevent
chipout.) Then continue this process until
fourteen notches are cut, see Fig. U.
To cheek for aeeurscy, measure the dislance from the fil':lt notch to the last. Since

CUT OFf

3"

OlAMFftR OF
HOU; IN~am

lONG

"...--MACHIN SCREW.
lfAVE A 1'R
lONG' STUD

t.here are fourteen ?/j,..If,,\\ide notches and

thirteen 'I.."-wide pins, it should measure

11"Yo"", see Fig. 8.
ROUNOTHl: PINS. Once all the notches

STUD

DETAIL

COUNtQSINK HOlS
lEMPlAlf fOR 'Il' )C IIi'
_-Fh
MAQiINE
SCR~S

I/.{'_~

POSmON
ltM.PlAtE RUSH

WITH ENDS OF &ASE

18

BRACKET
mAil

are cut, ] filed the front end of each pin

round, see Fig. 12. (Note: The back end of
the notches on most commercial templates
are also rounded, but they don't have 00
be to eut dovetails.)
CU1'TO LENGTH. To cut the template to
length, place it 011 the base block with the
middle pin centered on the length, see Fig.
13. Then mark and cut the template the
same length as the top of the base.
BRACKETS. The template is attached 00
Lhe block with angle brackets. These can
be made from 4' x 4" steel corner brackets.
WOODSMlTJ:l

"...

Start by haeksawing one "leg" on each

bracket to 2" long ee Fig. 14.
Then cut a 1'1.... long slot up trom the
cut-off end. Depending on the brand of
C0111erbracket you buy, you will probably
be cutting up through a mounting hole. Cut
the slot to width to match the diameter of
the hole. On some brackets these holes OJ'"
offcenter and the slot should be cut off center to match.
Aftel the slots are cut, position the
brackets on the ends of the template and
countersink holes in the template for rnachine screws, see Detail in Fig. 15.
STtJDS. Once the template is screwed to
the brackets. two studs are mounted in the
base block to position the braekets. To do
this, position the template flush with the
ends of the block and mark the slot positions on the front of the block, see Fig. 15.
The studs are created by lightening two
machine screws into the block and then cutting off thllir heads, see Detail in Fig. 15.
(']'he diameter of the stud" should match
the width of the slots in the brackets.)
Shop Note: Before tightening the SCl'eW
into the block, th"",ad two nuts onto the
screw to act 3$ stops for the template, see
Detail in Fig. 15.

DETAil

RABBET

"

..,11.
suues
OF

Vf"--v,."

MAKE MUlTlelf
PASSES
TO REMOVE
RfMAlN'IHG

CUT STOP SlOCK

Off EACH END

tiOlES

TO OlEATE
SLOT

STOP BLOCKS

The only thing left to make are the stop

blocks. These IlOO;liollthe workpiece" in
relation to each other and to the template.
COT THE IlABBE't. Start by cutting a
piece of stock to a width of 2>,11'and length
of fr. Then cut a o/,,'-<leepby l'wide l<ll>bet along one edge, see Steps I and 2 in
Fig. 16. Next cut the piece to a finished
width of i%N, see Step 3.

SCIlAP

SUPPORT BlOCk <,

ANAL ASSEMIl.L.r

8ND NOTCH.When Clltting dovetail s, the

two workpieees have to be offset 'lo"N from
each other. To allow for this offset, cut a
'1lowide notch at both ends
the stop

or

block to produce a o/,.Iong finger, see

Fig. 17. After cutting the notches, check
the length against the-comb template - the
"finger" should be exactly .IS lOng as the
'luidlli of a pin on the comb.
Shop Note: It may be easiest to cut the

SHOUtoER OF STOP
BtOCK IS 6"<4" fROM

fingers just a hair longer than 'ltn and

file them down to exact size.

___"'0 x

SCREW DOWN SO

CENTER OF BASE

'1~

PAN HEAD
SCREW

ADJUS1'MENT SLOT. To make tbe blocks

adjustable, J cut IN.long SCl'eW slots by
drilling a series of 0/, holes, SC<l Fig. 18.
Then cut a stop block off each end.
FINAL ASSEMBLY

After the stop blocks are made, you can

assemble all tbe pieces, see j;'ig. ~9. '1'0
start, screw the stop blocks down wiQ1
sheet metal Screws into the pre-drilled
boles so the shoulder of each stop block is
611< from the center of the jig. (This may
have to be adjusted later, see page 20.)
Then add the springs, bats, and cams,
And finally, the template is held tightly to
the studs with washers and wing nuts.
WOODSMITH

flAt WASHER-

WEAl!

WING NUT TO AT STUD-

19

Dovetails: Ste~
...
By...
Ste~_
Cutting tight dovetail joints with
a router and template is easy but it requires a littJe planning
ahead. It's best to plan the dimensions of tbe cabinet opening
ahead of Lime to accommodate
drawers that are joined with
touter-cut dovetails. That is, the
width (height) of the drawer front
has to be a multiple of YO", (This
produces a joint that's symmetrical both on the top alld bottom
edges, see the photo.)
Once the wid~h of the drawer fronts is
determined, cut the drawer's side and back
pieces to the same width. (Note: All of this
assumes that the drawers are flush f!"Ont
drawers. See page 22 for infonnation on
making rabbeted front drawers.)
LENGTH.AS for length, cut the pieces to
fit the cabinet openings (taking into eonsideration any clearance). Also, to make
sure the cor ners ru-e squa re, check that the
drawer front and back ru.. equal lengths,
and the drawer sides ., .. equal lengths.
LAIlEL P.ECES. Once all of the pieces -e
cut to finished size, lay them out and label
the bottom edge of each piece. Also, number matching corners, sec Step 1.

Next, mount
the "comb" template 011 the jig.
Everything is okay if the bottom
edge of the drawer side is
centered on the first notch of the
template, see Step 4. Now hold
the template down (flat) on the
drawer front and tighten the
wing nuts, see Step 5. (The location of the stop nuts on the studs
may take some adjustment, see
box on l>age 21.)
ADD 'rEMPLATE.

ALIGNMENT

ROUTER SETUP

Setting lip the jig takes some trial and

error, SO don't start with the finished
pieees. I work with scrap that's the same
thickness and width as the drawer pieces.
MOUNT PIllCES. Start by mounting a
test drawer side under the />'OI.t pressw ..
bar and a test drawer top under the l())l
pressure bar with the bottom edges Light
against the left-hand stop block and the insides Jacing out, see Step 2, (This can be
confusing since it's opposite the way the
pieces will be in the drawer.)
After the drawer ft'Ontis clamped down,
repcsition the drawer side so its end is
level with the drawer Iront, see Step 3,

The router is guided in and out of the template with the aid of a guide bushing, see
Step 6, This is II metal "collar" that mounts
to the router base, see Sources, page U.
Next, mount II Vi' dovetail bit in the
router, making sure the bit is centered in
the collar of tbe guide bushing, If it's not,
adjust the router's plastic basi! slightly. As
for the depth Of lhe hit, I start with it 'h
deep (from the base), but. this may vary
depending on the bit, see box.
ROUTING THE PIECES

Now the pieces can be routed. To prevent

chipout, start by making a light scoring

RETAil

"'

s",o..

14
~

SO"f't'o!:;l
AU. PlEaS A~E
INSIDE FAClNG UP

" .z

31

DETAIL

FRONT

JIG

g "
~ "
"

I'

SAS.
SlOE

'\

MAKE

DllAWEJ!

ENOS lEVEL

S,""

Start by layi',g mu (Jw 4,,",<>:. pieces

ClamI' " drawer side under [I'QIU
Next, loosen the front, pre8.~ure '''",
2
3
1
on a bench. 'witit the ;'t~ide8 Jacblll
bar. Then clamp " dl'(uooi' Jron'
a,nd ,-epositWil Ihe drcl'ver side so tJU)
1<1'.To (W()id cm(fusion, label,all pieces top of jig tight to the dl'llwer side, follsilies top end is perJecUy le~'CI1
with th_ top oj
<!

and n"",bel' tlte 1Iudcltillg CQ!'IIers.

,,,.
"<I/.

BOTTOM

EDGE

\~

AI>JUSl A8Il
I
....sTOP BlOCK
:
\._ r- ----1
~
"'9T;
I

~ I

c~~')
_

face ou: a1ld boUo>ns to the wft,.

tJw dl'(,wer

/>'On/..

TOP VIEW
Place template over studs IUui check
I/UJJ, tlte bottom edge oj the dT(lwer
side is C8l1te.ro un litefirst. notch. If il1.
not, IUljust. tile stop b/lJeJo.

4
20

E1ul oj drawer fron; s/UJu/.d start mu

Mmill! ""I' {/l.ule busMng onto IJw

5
celltere(i bel{vein, front anli back oj 6router. '1'11" T(lise bit '1/ from router
notef, at bO(1t. elu/s oj jig. To adjlc:St, base as a starting point. It may have
/0

c/UI'lfIe position oj the stop ",ds.

be adjusted slightly late.'.

WOOPSMITH

pass from right to left, see Step 7.

Then gently move the router in and out
th'" OOVErAll BIT
of the fingers, moving from left to light,
see Step 8. You should be able to feel the
guide bushing stop at the beck of each
notch. After routing, but before removing
the pieces from the jig, cheek that you've
l'OUllld each socket evenly, See Step 9.
ROUTING RRMA1NlNG JOINTS. At, this
point, you've routed the joint at the left
MAl<E UGHr PA:_SS
front corner of the drawer. (It's marked
1'0
PREVENT
CHIPOUT , ...
No. 1 in Step 1.) Next rout the right rear
corner joint,(marked No.3) using the same
To p..elJe>!I. c/lipout 011 d''(!~<>e>'
side,
procedure. Mount the drawer side on the
s/art.
by
maicblg
a
ligllt
pass
from.
o-ont of jig, the drawer back on the top of
jig - with the bottom edges _"ainst the 1'igllt to wft.. This "V" groove est/,blishes
stop on the liif! and the inside. facing out. a. clean shoulMr liM.
The other two joints (No. 2 and 4) are
routed with the pieces tight against the
stop block on the rigltt side of the jig.
Again, always claml) the drawer side to
tbe jhmt of the jig, the inside of the
pieces facing out, and the bottom edges
a".rinst the stops (this time on the right).
IVben routing on the right side, follow
the same procedure. Make a light passs
from right to left and then move the router
in and out of the notches from left to right.
BO'M'OMGROOVE. When all the joints
are routed, aU that's left is to cut the
FinaUy remove (lie (mllpiate alld
grooves for the draw." bottom, see Step
check (hat (,I( of (lte 8()(Jk~ts mid pin.5
10. Cut the g.-oove so it's centered Oil the
bottom socket of the drawer front, Then it (,re It"iform. Opposi1e .ioints al'e cut. on
mil be hidden by a pin on the drawer side. the ,wilt suie of the jig.

..woo the router from wft to

8 Next, 100rkinDin
mut oul of the
right

1I0tehell. PI<$h the 'rOIUe" into _" ,,,,teh

,,,,tit. the bushing hits tlte bottom of .tolelj.

R"

eonOM

FENCE

StO'

SOCKET

TAlII.
-SAW

aUjoints are routed, cut bot10 After

tom groove
PW;Se..~
0)1, S<ltQ l?l

t1QO

to ",atcl. drawer bottom thickness. Center tire gl'O(JlJe on the bottom sock~t.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
S<!ttingup to make router-cut dovetails is
always a trial and en-or effort, There's usually lots of fiddling around with trial pieces
and l'eadjusUng to get II perfect fit.
roo LOOSE.If the joint is so loose ehat
the pieces wiggle around when they're put
together, the depth of eut, is too shallow,
see first photo below. Increase the depth
of cut about
and try again.
roo 'ITGB'I'.Ifa trial cut is so tight that
the pieces can't be tapped together, the
router bit is extended out too fur from the
router base. Decrease ehe depth of cut
about Vd and tlJ' again.
roo DEEP. If the pins on the drawer
sides go too far into the SOCketson the
drawer front, the sockets are too deep, see
middle photo on right. To correct this,
move the template out (toward you) by
turning the stop nuts on the studs counterclockwise. (Be sure to adjust, the nuts on
both ends of the jig.)
Note: You may want the pins to be
recessed from the ends of the sockets about
.ot. This helps when sanding the joints
flush later. (See Tips, page 23.)
roo SHA/..WW. If the pins don't go far
enough into the sockets, move the template in (away from you) by turning the
stop nuts cloekwise.

v..,..

WOODSMITH

OFFSET.After the joints are cut and

tapped together, sometimes the top edge
of the draw." Iront doesn't align with the
top edge of U,e side, see third photo.
If both the top and bottom edges.are offset equal amounts, there could be a couple
of things wrong. FiJost, the edges of both
pieces have to be light against the stop
block. There might be some sawdust between t.he workpiece and the stop block.
Second, the offset on the stop block may
not be exactly
If it's a little more
than that, you might try adding a layer or

Va..

two of masking tape to the "finger" on the

stop block.
Note: The end of the stop block should
be centered on the first notch of the template, see Step 4 on page 20. If it's not, the
top edges of the two pieces will be aligned,
but the joint won't be symmetrical on the
top and bottom edges.
OTHER PROBL.ThfS. M,ost other problems are usually caused by the pieces not
being clamped down in the jig so they are
flush across the top, or because they move
out of position as they're being routed.

roo LOOSE. If joint. 'is too 'tOO DEEP. If'Jli'1$ go deep,

OFFSET.

loose, incr<!'<l$8bil depth.

align, they may 'wt haw

mow> temp!a:te toward you..

If th pieces cUm't

roo TI(;llr. lf (I!8 joint is 'roo SHilLWW. If 110t deep been tight against stops. 0,
I()() tight, decrease depth.
81Wagk, 'nU1ve toward jig.
sU>p offset may 1wt be 'h<'.

21

-RABBETED

RABBETED DRAWERS

"ONT

Making the dovetail joints fOJ' a drawer

with a ,-abbeted front is a little different
from routing a flush front draw.", You
have to take into eonside ration the lip
around the outside of the drawer front,
LAYlNG 0\11'. When you layout
the
pieces, the width of the drawer's back and
sides has to equal the .hOld(ler-Io,shm"4er
width of the drawer ll'Ont instead of the
cverall width, 'lee Step 1. And the length
of the back equals the shoulder-to-shoulder
When l<l!lblfl oul fOl' a Iy,&betell
Out lite rabbet (, lile dral""" P,(lIIt length of the front, not the overall length,
d.'(llver, lIU) width of /JIB sid..< and
}i1"$l, Then, fm' a ''4" rabbet. slip /l (I cut the rabbets bej'ore routing,)
back shouid equo! lite shoulder-to- II." spacer between the boUo", ec/ge of 11",
Note: Once again, it's best if the cabinet
MwaUkr dimensun; Qf lite fro>1t.
draUNJrfront and /I", stop block,
is designed so the width of the drawer back
and sides is a multiple of 'I.",
;;; ~.
DETAil
SPACER. When clamping the drawer
.rt<: i~?:-DRAWE'~
FRONTt
(r(JnLto
the jig, you also have to take into
~
fRONT....
lJ
consider.. tion the rabbet. '1'0 correctly position the shoulder ill relation to the template, [ put a spacer between the drawer
front and the stop block, see Step 2.
To determine the thickness of this
spacer, suotr .. ct the width of the rabbet
D'9m 'V,," (since a pin plus a notch - Yo").
For a %" ,.. bbet then, you will need " y,'
spacer, see Step ~
END ALIGNMEI'fl'. On the end of the
To keep tile ..IUflddelof rabbel alig>1e<1
Cui the ,~(l(;ket. in
drawer fron: drawer f,'ont. the sltouJde,' of the ,.. bbet
luitlt [ron! of jig, clamp U:lltp"mrg
('iI mouillg TOuter p'Om left I" ,ight. (not the end) has to be aligned with the
mbbeled. piece under fron: bar alld In'i,,!! Work ill (l'ut out .0 Ih~ IIUicif &"sltill{l (,'Ontof the jig. '1'0 'let this up, cut a match."ul oj' draUl1r fro>11.Itp tigltt.
bottom . ou! ilt all of tlte l/ol""e.<,
ing rabbet in " piece of scrap ana clamp it

~\Al'

II,.

-'.Mu(O /~

r.

under the front pressure bar, Then bring

...

-,

~~~

~~-;.
~

~~ ~.::,JV

11

To cut groove for bot(61". it a stl'ip

nemoue 11,. drawe r front mul 'lIPlace
5 'willt
6
a pi.c~ of
Then.
oj'Mo,sonile
the botU"" oj' a block
euds of ih d''!};lool' sitl.
a.ut
fence.
'ubbe!
,!a

8""0.1',

l)i/l8 61t tile

.((nU) M all. a

1'OU! the

fl,"''' fron: dllllvel ..

LEAVE FENCE
AND BlOCK IN
SAME POSJTrON

(I,.

to

ckmlp It)

Theu. nm the

.hmllder gai,wt tile MaSOIlite,

AS~"#~

IU U
I

l,_)

11

RABBfTED

- TAP PfNS
INfO SOCKETS
UNTtl SlO IS flUSH

ORAwtR FIlOWY

To ",d the bottom {lroove on V'C ;,..

Tap drallJCI'sides iulo </1'0'''''' front
1
8
'umil
I},e pins fit flush with the
side of lite clrcuvcr sides (wd ow;k.
leave lite rip fence a'ut Masm,ile ,,,,,,c... S/tollktel'. Tlte back join! is cuI the same

in the .ame posiuor:

22

as for a. fill.h fron/, drawer,

the rh.. wer front up ti~ht agai,,~tthe ,-abbet in the scrap, see Step 3,

ROU'I'ING SIDEl;, AIle,' ,'Outing the

drawer n'Ont (Step 4), remove the front
from the top of the jig and replace it ,vith
a piece of S"'I'8I),see Step 5. Then bring' the
drawer side up tigbt against the front of
the jig and the scrap, Since tile side piece
doesn't have a rabbet in it, you can rout it
without a spacer,
BACK CORNERS, The back comers
(where the drawer back meets the sides)
al-e eut with the flush dovetail technique,
see page 20,
BonOM

GROOVE

The rabbet also has to be considered when

locating the groove for the bottom in all
the pieces, To do this, I just avoid the nil)..
bet by making a little fence for the table
saw that fits 1mder lhe rabbet, see Step 6,
Then the groove will be cut the same distance from the shoulder on the drawer
5-ont as it is from the bottom on the back
and Sides, see Step 7,
When cutting a groove for a v.r plywood
bottom, r do it ill two steps, First. adjust
the fence !IO the cut will be slightly offcentered 011 the bottom socket. After
making a pass with aUthe.'pieces, move bhe
fence slightly until the groove is centered
on the socket and wide enough to accept,
the V.," bottom, Then make another pass,
WOODSMITH

__

T_i~sfor Dovetailing. __

DEPTHsmING

GAUGE

One of the most difficult things about setting up a router to cut dovetails Us adjusting the bit to the correct height. If the bit
is just a hair too high, the joint will be too
tight; just a hair too low, and it's too loose.
BUILD A GAUGE. Once the bit is set to
the correct, level, it's worsh taking a few
minutes to build a simple depth-setring
gauge. Then, whenever you use that bit,
you can easily sel it to the correct height.
When the .router was set up and ready
to go, before cutting the dovetails, T flrst
mad. a gauge (for future use) by culting a
notch in a long scrap of hardwood. (Strut
with a long block and cut it sholter later.)
But there's a problem here. You can't
run the router over the block because the
guide bushing around the router bit blocks
the bit from cutting. (It's not a problem
when using" template since the template
keeps the bushing up of[ the workpiece.)

DAll(,) FI.RST. To get around this problem, start by cutting a %-wide dado
across the block. Cut it alittle deeper than
the height of the bushing, see Step 1.
!'tOUT DOVETAILNOTCIl..After cutting
the dado for the bushing, rout a wide
dovetail-shaped notch across the block. To
do this, 1 clamped the block in a vise and
ran the bushing against the teft shouldel'
of the dado, and then back out against the
right shoulder, see Step 2.

NOTE,
UNPWG ROUTER

WHEN SfmNG
DP1'H OF BIT
WHEN
lI<SEf1lN<;

RAtSE !o1T UNT1l.

+-_

EVeN WITH TOP

Of""'~TCH

WOODSMITH

USING TffE GAUGE.

Now, whenever you

want to set up to rout dovetails, put the

block on the router base and i'!lise the bit
until it's even with the top of the notch.
FmlNG DOVETAIL JOINTS

How tight should a dovetail joint be? A

good fit shouldn't be so loose that you call
push the pieces together with your hands.
It should take SOme l;gltt tapping to get
them together.

around the pins and also in the sockets. I

usually use a small rutist'~ brush to do this.
Tile problem is that there are a lot of surfaces to COverand the glue can start setting up before you can get the drawer assembled. It's a good idea to have SOmehelp
to spread the glue quickly.
SANDING THE JOINT SMOOTH

The perfect dovetail joint should fit together tight, flush, and there shouldn't be
a lot of excess glue squeeze-out. That's the
ideal. But in reality, there may be some
finishing work to do on a dovetail joint
after assembly.
In fact, since I know the joint won't be
perfect, I plan tbe fit of the joint so it has
to be sanded down exactly smooth. The
only question here is: Should the joint be
Mel: HAROWOOO
cut so the 1)ill$ stick up a little from the
BlOCK Ovt~ENnRE
surface, or so the cUlis oj lite socke/.$ stick
JOINT WHEN TAPPING
up a little?
PIECESTOGnHER
DltAw..
SANDING PINS, ff the joint is cut so the
FOONT
pins-stick up, you have to sand the ,q/tOl.e
However, even with light tapping, it's drawer side to keep it a uniform thickness.
best to apply even pressure across the If you only sand down the face of the pins
wbole joint to prevent the pins from split- (neal' the joint), the middle section of the
ting out. r place a block of hardwood over drawer side will be thick and cause pro.
all the pins on the drawer side and then lems when it's time to fit the drawer in the
tap until the pin. are seated in the bottom cabinet.
of the sockets.
SAN'DING ORAWEB J;JNIJS. If the joint is
STANLeY HAlttMJl. Instead of using a.. cut SO the pins are deep, then you only
steel hammer 01' wooden mallet, I've found have to sand the ends of the sockets (the
that a Stanley "De8(1Blow" hammer works ends of the drawer from, and back). But
nicely for most joint assembly tasks. These this creates another problem, The front
hammers are made of black plastic and the and back ru-eusually cut to length to fit the
head is filled with oil and shot They Call opening in the cabinet $<I there will be a
be used with quite some foree and still not small gap on either end. If you sand after
dent the wood. They're available at most the drawer is assembled, the gaps can
hardware stores and home centers,
easily get too large.
NO Cl-AlIfPS. One advantage of having
tight fitting joints is that you won't need
clamps to hold the drawer togethe)' while
the glue dries. (Clamps can sometimes
have the negative effect of pulling the
drawer out of square.) If the joints are cut
with a tight fib, just check the drawer for
square as soon as the joints are tapped
home. Then allow the drawer to dry on a
Oat surface,
GLUING DOVETAILJOINTS

How much glue should be applied to a

dovetail joint? And whet" should you ]lut
it - on the pins or in Ille sockets?
TIGHT JOINT. If the joint fits tighUy, you
don't need much glue. I usually squirt one
dot of yellow glue on the b<t~k side of each
pin. Then when the pin seats in the socket,
the glue sort of squishes its way around
the pin and the socket.
LOOSEJOINT. If the joint is a little loose
you may need to brush the glue all the way

However, J usually follow this second

method and cut the joint so the pins are
about V,," too deep. But 1 take this into
consideration when measuring and cutting
the drawer front and back to length. Ifthe
pins ate set V.," too deep, the length of
the drawer front and back will be shortened v's' when both ends are sanded.

23

Sources
THE
WOOOWOllKRS'
srone, (see
address above). Drawer pults (6), brass
with ceramic rosettes, 3' bore, Order No.

eyes from coming uncurled.

Cut four 'h," x 1%" steel pins from
a Vi' steel rod or [rom the unt.hreaded
You L<an order the hardware for the hope
part of 0.4" carriage bolts.
chest from }VOOfismHh a.~a kit (see box (!;1808. Paue; I~eu,;',i"gBuuon (6), tan
plastic,
Order
No.
08802.
G.nmul
Fillbelow), 01' from the following source:
Make two 2"' x 4" brackets from 4" x
TIlE WOODWOrua:RS' STORE, 21801 Inislle:;' Sen/(ll;!Jll, Sealer, 0,,1<)1' No. P301O;
4" COmer brackets, see page 18.
GUID& BUStliNG. ')'0 use the dovetail jig
dustrial Boulevard, Rogers, MN 55-314; Satin Finish, Order No. P3011.
you need a V,." outside diameter guide
612428-2)99 (Catalog: $2.oo.) (Note: The
lIfEISEL HABOWA.RE SPECIALTIS, P.O.
design of some of this hardware is slightly Box 258, Mound, MN 55364; 800441-9$70 bushing, Bushings are made to fit specific
different from that in the photos and in the (Note: $25 minimwn order. Catalog: routers, so cheek with a dealer who carries
HOPE CHEST

Woodfnlulh kit.) Desk B1dt Hinge.s (1 pair),

solid brass, 1V:t long x 2" wide, Order
No. 01238. i.Jill S"fYPO>'ls (1 pair), br3SS

6'h" long, 011le1' No. 01205.

CllIlst Lock, includes key and escutcheon,
Order No. 03304, Carved Hartlw(I()(l Pulls
(2), 1%" high, 4%" wide, Chen-y, Order
No. B12OO;'Valnut, Order No. B l2oo;
Oak, 0111er No. B1204. AnOLhel' option
would be to use brass pulls (see photo
below): Sl"(W! Puils (2), :r bore, 4%"
overall, Order No. Ell2.3.

$l.oo.) Glide Stlil), self-adhering plastic,

Vi' wide, sold in 10 ft. lengthij (approx, 13

It. needed). 0111cr No. '16<1.

plated,

DRESSER

You can order the dresser hardware

Woodfnnilh (see below), or from:

(I'om

accessories for your router. /\ universal

bushing' set is available from:

WOOOCRAI!1' suppx,y

DOVETAIL JIG

We aloe also Om~ljngkits of 1)lU~Sto build

the dovetail jig (~ box below). You can
probably find the hardware at a local hardware store for around $15.00, but this price
doesn't include the I)l"(l-{;ut plastic template. The template can be made from v,r

CORP.,

41 Atlantic

Ave., P.O. Box 40()0, WObUi'Il, MA 01888;

800-225-1153 (Catalog: Free), Rotder Guili<

8,,,,hing S6t, with universal base plate,

Order No. llV 12.

OOVt."lAIL BITS. The jig is designed to

work with ill' diameter ('/.o" shank)
dovetail bit. (Note: The ~" "cfel'S to the
widest diameter at the bottom of the bit.)
Masonite, see page 18.
Since a dovetail bit has to make a full cut
If you buy the hardware locally, use the on tile fil'St pass, I'd recommend a twolist in the box below as a shopping list, but flute, carbide-tipped bit. IVe'I'e offeling a
there are some things you will have to (10: bit (see box OOIow), 01" one can be pur \Veld the eyebolts shut to prevent the chased through most tool suppliers,

WOODSMITH KITS
HOPE CHEST

on the hope chest, Order Kit #58C, Hope

Chest Pattern, st.oo.

WOOflsmilh is offeJing two hardware kits

for (he hope chest. One has carved cherry

DRESSER

pulls, the other solid brass pulls.

KIT #68A. Hope Chest Kit (Wood Puil$)
($34.95) includes:
(l pair) Solid Cherry Hardwood Pulls,
2'~' x 9%", see photo below. These
pulls are hand carved in the Amana
Colonies in Iowa,

(I pair) Solid BI"OSS Hinges, 1 V.'

long, Z' open width, \\~tJjscrews.
(1 pair) Lid Supports. one right-hand,
one left-hand, bl"OSS plated, with bl'8SS

screws.
(1) Chest Lock, key, strike plate, and
keyhole escutcheon.
(1) Full-size Patterns of scrollwork.

Hope Chest Kit (Brass Pulls)

(~.95) includes all of the items in Kit
#58A, except the pU,lIsare made of Solid
Brass, 2%" x 4'/.', see phot:o abQve.
PATTERNONLY. If you only want the
fllU-si1.epatt.en1S of th~ scl'lllwol'k de.~igns
KIT N!l8B.

24

W()()(ismilh is also offering a ki~ of hardware for the dresser.

KIT#581>. Dresser Kit (~6.95) includes:

(6) Solid Brass Drawer Pulls, with 00ramie rosettes, 3" bor e.
((I) PIastic Buttons (drawer stops).
15 reet of Glide Strip, sell-adhering;
pressure-sensitive plastic, 'I." wide,
DOVETAIL JIG

We've also put together two different kits

to build the dovetail jig.
KIT #58e. Dovetail Jig Parts Kit ($34.95)
includes:

Template. plastic, o/i'I" x 4" X IS'/.

(4) Eye Bolts, 0/,01'x 5", lvith eyes
welded shut.
(4) Threaded Inserts, 0/,,,' inside dia.
(4) Compression Springs, %" x 2"'.
(4) Steel Pins, ~" x 10/.".
(2) Pan Head Screws, No. 10 x 'Y.('.
(2) Machine Screws, v.{' x 3".
(8) Hex Nuts, '/'1'.
(2) 'II" Wing Nots with washers,
(4) Fh. Macliine Screws, V" x 14".
(4) Fender Washers, 0/0," x 10/,r
(1) Dovetail "Comb"

(2) Corner Brackol." 2" )( 4"

aluminum with slot and holes.

tN,

IJ'>8F.Dovetail Jig Parts and Wood

Kit ($54.95) includes the parts in Kit lIffiSE
plus all of the wood (hard maple) needed
to build the jig:
(1 pe.) 1%" x 6" x IS" (Base top).
(2 pes.) 1%" x 1%" x 15" (Bars).
(I pc.) 1%" x 1%" x 16V:." (Oams),
(1 pe.) "y.,' x bW x 2.2" (Base).
(l pe.) "II." x 2'4" x S" (Stops).
lOT

TEIIWLA'r ONLY. If you want the plas-

tic "comb" dovetail template only. Order

Kit #58C, Dovetail Template, $24.95.
OOVETAILorr. We're also c)ffeling a
double-fluted, carbtde-tlpped 'A' dovetail
bit. It's a high quality bit with a 11." shank.
O)"d.1"Kit #58H, 'J," Dovetail Bit, $1{;.75.
ORDERING

0'

INFORMAnON

To 0111erany the kits, write yonr order

and yow' name and address on a piece of
paper (or, if available, use the order form
on the protective covel' of this issue). Send
YOIU" orden and payment, (110 charge cards
or phone orders, please) to:
Wood.mith Kits

P.O. Box 10350

nes Moines, 1A 50006
Please speeify the kit number on the outside of t.he envelope. Allow 44> weeks for
delivery. Postage and handling are free.
(Iowa residents add 4% sales tax.) Plio es
of these kits ru... good through December
31, 1988.

WOOOSMITH