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Review Article
Garmen t d yej ng
] N
Garments arc e ither prepared directly from processed fabric or the grey fabric i s converted i nto garmcnt fol lowed by
processing. Out of these two. the latter has gai ned undue importance to tack le present day scenario more effect i vely. Thi s
paper reviews the reasons behind this new chal lenge a s well a s other technical aspects related t o dyei n g of garments.
Keywords : Dyeing, Garment. Garment accessories
IPC Code: Int. C l
1 I ntroduction
469
Rotary Machine
470
low
l iquor dyeing
machi nery
w i t h compromi s i n g
acti on.
Recent
deve l op ments
in
these
mac hines
doors,
variable
cage
speed
and
operat ion
1 6. 7
on
laundry
mac h i neries.
paddle
and
rotary
dye i n g
been
supp lemented
w i th
automated
and
control
and
l i nt
fi l ters
have
also
been
t i l t i ng
l oading
and
equipments
v i z.
(i)
side
paddle
Rotary
dye i ng
considerable
mac h i ne
has
evol ved
sop h i sticated
and
of
h ig h l ighting
features,
modern
viz.
w i th
more
in
version
(i)
out
with
optical
the
bas ket
speed
centri fuge
system
ensuring
that
the
w i thout
the
need
d i rect
down
assistance,
i nto
chamber
with
no
mechanical
process' .
Other
devel op ments
i n c luded
paru:meters,
m i c roprocessor
control
on
f 1 nslllg an d a fter-treatment" . . . .
Special requirements of garment dyeing , viz. ( i ) good
level dyeing properties, (ii) higher migration and
diffusion properties to assist seam penetration, and
(iii) suitabi lity for short/automated process, have
necessitated the use of reactive dyes 26 . This
requirement is met particularly with less reactive,
monochlorotriazinyl dyes with their high temperature
application to optimize diffusion and migration, low
reactivity to optimize level dyeing and ease of
automation using linear addition profiles for both dye
and al kali additions " , 2(,. Further details of garment
dyeing with fibre reactive
dyes have been discussed
'
elsewhere 3}. 35
Vat dyes have li mitations when severe chlorine
fastness is required. Hot pigmentation technique is
generally employed in which the dye is dispersed as
an insoluble pigment under alkaline conditions at
60-80C. After a level ling period, dye is reduced to
47 1
472
C H A K R A BORTY et at. : G A R M EN T D Y E I NG
d'late co I ours on I y 1 (, .
and 1I1terme
1 0 Polyester G a rment Dyeing
474
1 1 .7 Interlinings
Recent
A dvancements
in
Garment
Dyeing
Sectors
CHAKRABORTY
el
475
38.
( 1 988) 30.
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
( 1 988) 29.
20
21
22
I N D I A N J. F I B R E TEXT. R E S . , D EC E M B ER 2005
476
& Lambert A H . Am
23
Harper R J
24
& Settle J H . Am
52
P.
( 8 ) ( 1 996) 64.
53
Rucker J W. Freeman H S
25
Gurc D C
26
54
27
55
Kochavi
56
1 969.
57
Harper R
59
Ltd ). 1 968.
60
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
D T.
61
62
63
35
37
38
64
65
( 1 992 ) 1 7 .
40
41
H arper R J
& Lambert A H .
42
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
Tex/. Prog. 1 9
Lewis
68
69
M u rray A
Rehani T R . Colourage. 7 ( 1 99 3 ) 3 1 .
71
73
70
72
Color. 88 ( 3 ) ( 1 972 ) 9 3 .
61.
P, Mall Made Tex/ lndia. 3 ( 1 99 8 ) 1 29.
Shah D L, C/othsline. 6 ( 1 996) 5 3 .
Chong C L & M a C W. Alii Dyest Rep. 85 ( I I )
66
67
13.
43
J & Lambert A H , Am
(2) ( 1 988) I .
36
39
( 1 990) 24.
58
Tex ! Chelll
Color. 24 ( 1 0) ( 1 992 ) 2 1 .
Texl Prog. 1 9
74
75
76
Lal R A . Cololtrage, 8 ( 1 99 3 ) 2 7 .
Dey
77
R e e d W. Am Dyesl Rep. 7 6 ( I I ) ( 1 9 8 7 ) 3 5 .
( 1 996) 1 5 .
78
79
80