ARTICLE REPRINT

THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE MEDIEVAL CITY OF RHODES

TO A SITE OF CULTURE AND CITIZENS' EDUCATION *

GEORGE DELLAS - KATERINA MANOUSOU-DELLA

Architects of YPPO

Rhodes can be considered as a formal example of a diachronic Mediterranean city

adapted in the European model, which characterized the creation of the medieval urban

centres. The harbor of Rhodes was an important turning-point of Eastern Mediterranean,

favorable for the grounding of boats with tradesmen and pilgrims for the Saint Places.

Rhodes' conquest by the Ioannites Knights of Jerusalem in the beginning of the 14th century

signaled a new season. The created urban landscape is characterized by the sovereign

elements of the fortified Western European medieval cities but maintained up to today the

memories of the big Hellenistic "ippodameia" and of the Byzantine city which it succeeded.

Medieval Rhodes is characterized as a centre of economic and cultural influences of our era in

the crossroad between East and West.

In 1985, the restoration works of the residences and the urban interventions began

with the Office of Programmatic Convention of the Ministry of Culture, TAP and the

Municipality of Rhodes, while from 1995 we cover a fertile period of a big scale of restoration

works of the Ministry of Culture and the 4th Ephorate of Byzantine Antiquities, in the

monumental nutshell of all historical periods of the city. The objective of the "Supervision

Committee of the Monuments of the Medieval City of Rhodes" of TDPEAE, that function

from 1998 as the institution of realization of a dynamic restoration program of the European

Union, is to be given the new dimension of the monumental space with accent in the

diachronicity of the urban web, according to the modern perceptions for the integration of

monuments in the life of citizens.

Important w o r k of this last period is:

a. The historical valorization of four religious complexes.

- Particularly the restoration and valorization of the imposing ruins of the big gothic

church of Virgin Mary of Bourgou, after the suppression of the road axis, that crossed it from

north to south and its function, as a station of historical retrospection and communal space

of special cultural activities, as concerts of Byzantine and medieval music, gave an improved

quality of the contact of residents and visitors in the modern life of the city.

- In the complex of Saint Apostles and of the Old Mess, a space of periodical

exhibitions of the Municipal Art gallery was organized, as well as a Municipal refreshment

stand and in the visiting church and the underground crypt a presentation of the history and

the restoration of the historical complex, activities that are useful in the city and are

embraced with enthusiasm by the residents.

* Due to publisher's error, only the first four photographs were printed in the book
 - The restoration of the monastery of Saint Augustine and its shaped courtyard,
transfers the visitor to a medieval monastic environment, charged with memories that
emerge from its history and its architectural phases.

b. The restoration of the land department of fortifications and the rehabilitation of the
ditch's free space, led to the growth of various activities at the length of an archaeological
walk, with the inventive initiative of users. It was towards this aim that the organized
operation of spaces of cultural events contributed, such as the theatre "Melina Merkouri", the
exhibition spaces in the ramparts of Saint George and of dell Carretto and in the complex of
rooms of the gate d' Amboise. The organization of land archaeological and exhibition spaces,
as in the watering and storage galleries of the infrastructure of the Hellenistic Ippodameia city
during the celebration of the European Days of Cultural Heritage in 2000 on the subject
"Immortal W a t e r " strengthens the reading of history of a diachronic space.

c. The restoration of the marine department of fortifications and of three docks of the
two central harbors (of Mills, Naillac and Saint Nikolaos).

The experimental integration of the archaeological relics in the communal space of

passage and walk, with the configuration of a lowered square before the central marine gate
of the medieval harbor, is successful and contributes to the sensitization of the citizens
towards their protection - valorization.

d. The restoration program of "Restoration - Valorization of monuments of religious

and urban architecture of the medieval city", in the context of which advanced and important
interventions were completed:

- The courtyard of the restored church of Archangel Michael was changed to a small
communal square with a krini and a living-room under an old "gramithia"' and gave life to an
isolated neighborhood.

- The restoration of the church of Saint Ekaterini, or Ilk Mixramp, with the recently
conserved and unique murals, can elect the rhodish knightly painting art of the 15th cent.

At the same time, a network of uses of the restored monuments started being
developed at a city level; thus, they began to form reference points among the residents.

- The restored mansion of the 18th -19th cent, with its introvert shady courtyard and
the Moslem krini, which is located in a medieval public building with a quadrilateral aithrion
(atrium), known as building Villaragut, provides the visitors with the chance to become
acquainted with the urban architecture and the way of life during the Ottoman domination.

- In the particular case of knightly Hostel of Saint Ekaterini, the use was studied at the
same time with the completion of restoration and the configuration of the internal spaces of
the monument. The integration of the "Centre of Educational Archaeological Programs" of
the 4th EBA enriches the character of the bombed and downgraded residential district, in
which the educational activity of the Municipal School was maintained up to today. The
temporality of the monuments and the overdraft spaces of region, where the foundation of
the imposing Hellenistic fortification of the big port dominates, is also expressed in the
content of the educational programs that are produced specifically for Rhodes. In terms of
educational importance, the experimental operation of visiting worksites, along the walk of
the ditch, is also important, as it sensitizes the public with regard to the significance of age,
deterioration from natural and social elements and the need of permanent conservation of
the monumental structures.

A part of the under restoration fortress of Saint Nikolaos, in which a model of the
fortress and an informative audiovisual program were placed, is open to the public since
September 1998. In June 2002, in the context of "Open Days" of the Ministry of Culture, the
southern part of the extensive excavation of the dock of the Mills became visiting, while at
the same time it hosted the educational program of the 4th E.B.A. "History of an excavation.

From the initial planning to the final presentation" that had the enthusiastic correspondence

of the public of Rhodes.

After 2000, it has started the new widest program of the Supervision Committee of

Works in the Monuments of the Medieval City of Rhodes, organized in two separate works:

the urban and religious monuments inside the walls and the fortification complex.

Big scale works are being developed in urban units and are characterized by the

general objective of integration of the archaeological spaces in the current urban web. This

perception leads to the promotion of the systematic archaeological research as an integral

part of the work. There has been a progressive revision towards the old perception of the

explicit delimitation of the excavated archaeological sites with continuous fencing, which

separates them completely from their environment space. On the contrary, we should

underline the significance of organizing the archaeological walks between the fragmentarily

maintained monumental and archaeological sites in wider regions, aiming at the

comprehension of their continuity and the diachronic appointment of historical stratification

of the city.

Initially, it is programmed to advance total interventions with "pilot" character in two

selected and completely determined regions, which are developed in the boundaries of the

traditional bargain of the city of the Ottoman domination, in the two ends of the central axis

of the knightly city, the big square (magna et communis wide).

The most important monuments of the first period of the restoration program are

located within these parts.

In the first part of the north-western region of the medieval city and of Kollakion, a

wide program of valorization of monuments and archaeological sites has developed:

- The restored orthodox monastery of Saint George of the 14th - 15th cent, with its

four-arched, 'tetrakogho', catholic and its cells, a characteristic example of a diachronic

monument, gives the possibility of a parallel appointment of the remains of middle-Byzantine

church and the atrium of an early-Christian basilica, on an ancient crossroad of the Hellenistic

Ippodameia city. The integration of the centre of the scientific meetings, which is an

operation that appears particularly attractive, can guarantee its valorization. However, it

maintained a corresponding activity during the Ottoman domination as lerodidaskaleio or

Medresses.

- The mansion of the 18th and 19th cent, is restored, in direct contact with the

monastery of Saint George and it will constitute a single totality, which will contribute to the

important use of a small centre of scientific meetings.

- The conservation of the small church of Saint Mark selected the infrequent

architecture of free cross with dome, its building phases and included it in the monumental

group of Saint George, of the mansion of Ottoman domination and the institution Marc de

Montalembert with its historical garden.

- The configuration and valorization of the excavation of Saint loannis, which is under

development, in combination with the recently decided restoration of the imposing neoclassic

school, in the centre of the north-western region of Kollakiou, constitute the most important

masterpiece of the region, that aims in their integration in the mesh of the archaeological

visiting sites and in the life of the city, with new uses of them.

- The restoration of the minaret of the biggest and most beautiful temple of Souleiman,

the conservation of its rich decorations is shortly completed, in order to be attributed again

to the adoration of the Muslims of Rhodes.

 The small and cute mosque of Hamza bey is under restoration and will enhance its

architecture and could constitute a small centre of the neighborhood, as the mosques always

did.

- The only building on the road of Knights that has not been restored by the Italians is

the Spanish Lodging. Today, the bigger room of the urban building of Rhodes is being

restored, in order to accommodate a visiting and completely equipped lodging so that the

visitor can conceive its architecture and function.

- The restoration of the neoclassic residence of cadi, or the old Moslem court and the

valorization of the Byzantine tower of the south walls of Kollakiou above which it was built,

give the possibility to the public to become aware of the Byzantine defensive architecture of

Rhodes, as well as new uses to be included, as sites of periodical exhibitions and probably

special accommodation.

- In the centre of the traditional bargain in the commercial road Socratous, on a floor,

the Aga mosque was built in the beginning of the 20th cent. Today, it is restored so as to

accommodate an important exhibition of the history of the Muslim monuments of Rhodes

and of the recent restoration and conservation of the masterpieces that are in them.

- The Siantrivan mosque was built in the 2nd half of the 19th cent, on the ruins of a

former mosque, near the central square of Ippokratous and it is being restored with a parallel

conservation of its rich painting decoration that will be admired by the public, as soon as it

will be completed.

In the second part of the region of Saint Panteleimona of the ovriaki district, a

complete intervention began a long time ago, starting from the repair of public residences,

the beneficial to the public buildings, the construction of underground networks and the

restoration of the pavements but also the configuration of squares. Within the developing

program the monuments of the neighborhood are being restored, as well as all the

archaeological sites, the ones that had been revealed earlier, but also those that are brought

to light today, are being shaped.

- The excavation of the complex of Panagia Nikis at the north-eastern corner of the

fortifications next to the church of Saint Panteleimonas, which was recently revealed, is also

being restored so that it will be freely visitable by the public that will have the opportunity to

experience the history of the monument that has been destroyed three times during the

medieval times, mainly by the attacks of the Rhodes' besiegers.

- The consolidation and configuration of the abandoned Anonymous church in the road

Kisthiniou, elected a downgraded, for many years, corner of the city and gave the reason for

an archaeological research on a complex of churches, which probably are related to Panagia

Nikis and Saint Panteleimona.

- The Synagogue Kahal Salom, which functions as a visiting monument and as a space

of adoration of the few Jews of Rhodes and of the many visitors, is being repaired and

conserved. The Jewish community numbered a lot of members before the 2nd world war,

when it was vanished.

- The protection of the ruins of the church of Saint Ekaterini, as well as the remains of

the existing mural with a modern awning, gives the stain of our era and shifts the interest of

the visitors for the diachronic archaeological site around the pansion of Saint Ekaterini, for

the configuration and valorization of the residues of the Hellenistic fortification and the

Jewish buildings of the synagogue and Alliance that where bombed in 1943.

In the context of the completed "Project of protection - valorization of the

monumental complex of the medieval fortifications of the city of Rhodes" that was approved
in October 2002 with the decision of the Ministry of Culture, the future of intervention of
total upgrade of the fortification complex is worked out, for the next 20 years at least.

In this planning the marine walls are also included, with the three fortified docks and
the Byzantine fortification as a dynamic element that is maintained in the archaeological sites
or incorporated in newer constructions.

The valorization axes of the land fortifications is the space of the ditch, in the interior
of which there are attempted alternations in the exploitation of its archaeological, natural and
monumental character.

The theatrical operation is considered as absolutely compatible with the character of

the exploitation of the spaces of the ditch. Theatric performances or even street theatre is
possible to be adapted to the various parts and widening of the linear evolving walk.

The integration of an organized theatrical installation, of high quality of planning and

construction, results in a social and cultural need for the city of Rhodes. The integration of
the new permanent land theatre "Melina Merkouri" has just been completed, in the context
of the exemplary intervention that is under development in the sectors of Italy and Provence.
The space of sighting diffuses in the natural landscape, harmonized within the wider
operation of the archaeological site, so as to allow the optical escapes that it always had,
towards both sides of the walk.

For the completion of the configurations in the seabed of the archaeological site, with
the embossed remnants of the Hellenistic infrastructure, deep engraved from the systematic
medieval quarrying, the role of its many users is particularly important, citizens of Rhodes and
visitors.

The completion of the environmental measures, that have been forecasted with special
scientific programs for the total of the bulky embanked fortification constructions but also for
the space of the ditch where these are appointed, is expected to restore the disturbed
balance in the monumental complex.

On the other hand, the fortress of Saint Nikolaos is overloaded with serious
environmental problems, such as the marine wind, the intense undulation and the sensitive
geological constitution of the ground, that are faced with complex and interdisciplinary
collaborations and attribute apart from the serious analytic documentation and mapping of
the pathology problems, to the completely specialized and argued proposals.

We apply proportional examples of complex studies in urban mansions and mosques of

the 18th and 19th cent, with complex loading organism of stone masonries and timber and
with rich wood carving and painting decoration. The same process is also followed in the
knightly urban and ecclesiastical monuments.

Particularly useful in the case of Rhodes is the study of the historical mortars, including
new mortars compatible with the old ones, are proposed, enriched with modem materials
that improve the behavior and extend the life of the monuments of Rhodes.

The prospect of transformation of the monumental space in regions in which the

citizens have the possibility to live, move, have fun and to be educated, is decisive for the
future of the exceptional sample of World Cultural Heritage that represents the fortified city
of Rhodes.
BIBLIOGRAPHY

Relevant to the history and the monuments of Rhodes:

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Ch. I. Papachristodoulou, "History of Rhodes", New Publication, Athens, 1994.

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K. Manousou-Della, G. Dellas, "The building Villaragut in the medieval city of Rhodes", History and

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