6.9 and 7.3 idi diesel stall after starting (especially after hotsoak/cool-down) then hard start.

Air intrusion into the fuel supply system.

Usually, the source of the fuel leak can be determined by the time from when
the engine starts to when it stalls. On 6.9 engines with a firewall-mounted
water separator, the engine will start and run for upto a couple of minutes
before any air which may be in the separator reaches the injection pump. The
6.9 water separator is prone to leaks, both fuel and air. The best cure for this
is to replace the OEM seperator with an aftermarket one (much cheaper--$30$60 vs. $180), or remove it and its hoses and connect the line from the tank
to the one running to the lift pump.
Since it's not recommended to operate a diesel engine without a water
separator, replace the fuel filter with the 7.3 type filter/water separator
assembly. You can either purchase the header and sedimate bowl from Ford
or a wrecking yard and install a new 7.3 filter. Another option is the Racor fuel
filter/water separator kit. This kit contains a filter which fits on the original
header and has a water sedimate bowl which screws onto the bottom (@
$35). The filter can also be purchased separately (@ $20), and you would
want to keep a spare on hand as the replacement filter would not be available
at your local parts store.
The 7.3 filter/water separator can develop fuel/air leaks at the fuel heater and
restriced filter sensor or the filter drain (all three are servicable) and water in
fuel sensor o-ring. The air bleed Schrader valve can leak on either filter.
The next common area for air leaks on both the 6.9 and 7.3 engines is at the
injector return cap o-rings and hoses. This will cause the engine to stall after
about 30 seconds of running if the air is able to travel into the fuel filter. On
6.9 engines the return line from the filter should be long enough to loop
about four inches above the filter.
The 6.9 can be modified to have a check valve at the fuel filter return to
prevent air from entering the filter. A 7.3 Econoline filter outlet fitting (E8TZ9C402-A) can be installed in place of the original outlet fitting. An early 3/16"
7.3 filter return orifice with a "flapper" valve can be installed into the port
ment for the E-van's restricted filter sensor.
On 7.3 engine the filter return orifice contains a check valve. This check valve
is usually a rubber flap inside the fitting, and if this fails air is drawn into the
filter as the fuel cools and contracts. This can be detected by removing the
fitting and trying to blow through it from the hose barb end. If you are able to
blow through it from this direction, it needs to be replaced. Seal the threads
on the orifice with Loctite 515 Gasket Eliminator or PST. There are two
different flapper valve orifices--3/16" and 1/4"--and the correct one needs to
be used with the coresponding hose size or leaks may occur.
Starting in 92 a 1/4" filter orifice was introduced without a flapper valve using
a spring and plastic check ball. The spring-and-ball and flapper orifices are

not interchangable; they have different headers. Also, the correct size return
lines hose needs to be matched to the injector caps and the proper clamps
used--not worm-gear, this will distort the hose; either OEM spring clamps or
fuel injection system screw-and-band type. When replacing injector return orings on one injector, you should replace all on that cylinder head as they
tend to leak after they have been disturbed. Use silicone dielectric grease to
aid in reassembly and some times it helps to install a third o-ring between the
return cap and injector line nut to keep the cap in place.
On the fuel supply lines at the filter inlet, filter outlet and injection pump
inlet, there are seals which can allow air to enter the fuel system if they
become deteriorated or dried out, even if there are no visible signs of fuel
leakage. If there is a leak on the line between the filter and injection pump,
the engine will seem to try to start, then become hard to start. Note that
there are seals of the same type on the injection pump return line at the
injection pump and at the return line collector fitting on the rear of the engine
(some applications).
Less common areas for air leaks are the injection pump outlet check valve
and the fuel lift pump, but both have been know to happen. Using clear hose
on various sections of the fuel suppy and return systems can usually pinpoint
the area of the air leak. Install the clear hose at the suspect areas, start the
engine to purge any air, then allow to cool. Watch these hoses for large air
bubbles or pockets when starting the engine to determine the origin of the air
leak. Also allow the engine to come up to operating temperature to look for
air leaks which may occur when the system is hot. These may migrate into
the filter and cause a hard start concern.
On the top of the pump there is a return check valve the return fuel line is
connected to this fitting a spring and a glass ball are inside this may have dirt
or something keeping it from closing.
After sitting overnight engine starts and runs then stalls and is then hard to
start.Classic sign of air intrusion from leaking return line o-rings. After it has
sat overnight and the engine is cold, remove the fuel filter. if it is not full, you
need return line o-rings.
the reason it is more noticeable when the you are low on fuel is that you get
a better siphon effect on an empty tank than you do on a full tank. get a
return fuel line kit.