Professional Documents
Culture Documents
166
lonelyplanet.com
COUNTY WEXFORD
pop 131,750
If youve fallen for the coast by the time you reach the estuary dividing the two counties, theres a handy short cut on a car ferry. Otherwise, follow the River Barrow to New
Ross, where you can board a coffin ship and put yourself in the flapping shoes of hapless
Famine migrs.
0
0
COUNTY WEXFORD
To Carlow
(4km)
Tinahely
Tullow
Shillelagh
y
ane
Sl
Ballon
N80
CARLOW
N9
Kilmichael
Point
Carnew
N11
Gorey
Kildavin
Bagenalstown
Ba
Borris
re
No
Enniscorthy
Nire
Valley
Hook
Peninsula
Saint
George's
Channel
Curracloe
Castlebridge
N11
E30-25
Wexford
Dunganstown
Kennedy
Homestead
la
ne
River
Blackwater
Ballyhogue
N30
Ferrycarrig
Oulart
E01-11
Clonroche
The
Rower
New Ross
Vinegar
Hill
River
KILKENNY
POPULATION: 218,142
N11
Enniscorthy
St
Mullin's
Inistioge
Cahore
Point
Blackstairs Kiltealy
Mountains
Graiguenamanagh
Ferns
e Gap
Brandon Hill
(516m)
Courtown
E01-11
Poulshone
Ballycarney
Scullogu
Dungarvan
Kilfane
River
Mt
Leinster
(796m)
Gowran
nn
N25
Foulksmills
Wexford
Bay
Curracloe
Beach
Wexford
Wildfowl
Reserve
Wexford
Harbour
Rosslare
Point
River
R736
Rosslare
R734
Barrow R733
Strand
Wellington
Campile
Murntown
E01-11
Bridge
N9
Dunbrody Tintern
Kilrane Rosslare Harbour
Abbey & Castle
E30-25
Abbey
Greenore
Clonmines
Tagoat
Yola
Point
Ballyhack
Arthurstown
Farmstead
Bannow Cullenstown
Waterford Passage Duncannon
Folk
Park
Tacumshin
Duncormick Bridgetown
SaltmillsBay
East
Windmill Lady's
Bannow
WATERFORD
Island
Kilmore Tacumshin
FethardLake
Lake
Ballyteige
Quay
Waterford
on-Sea
Carnsore
Bay
Airport
Baginbun
Carne
Templetown
Point
Head
Forlorn
Waterford
Dunmore
Point
Harbour Churchtown
East
Hook
Slade
Tramore
Peninsula
Saltee
Bay
Hook Head
Islands
John F Kennedy
Arboretum
St George's
Channel
Johnstown
Castle
Tuskar
Rock
N80
Leighlinbridge
HIGHLIGHTS
Arklow
Brittas
Bay
M11
WICKLOW
Bunclody
Inland, the magical history tour continues at Enniscorthy and Vinegar Hill. The National
1798 Rebellion Centre narrates the bloody year when county Wexfords pikemen and croppies fought 23 battles against the English. Elegant Lismore has a more aristocratic past, while
prehistoric remains hide among the heather in the Nire Valley and Comeragh Mountains.
10 km
6 miles
To Dublin
(56km)
N81
r
ve
Ri
East of the estuary, gazing across at Tramores more refined neighbour, Dunmore East, is the
extraordinary Hook Peninsula. Its history of marauding Vikings, lighthouse-keeping monks,
a shipwrecked Norman, and shadowy knights sects arrived from the Crusades, has long attracted grail hunters and conspiracy theorists. Visitors will find themselves drawn, trancelike,
down the flat, lonely promontory towards the oldest working lighthouse in the world.
River Barrow
Irelands sunny southeast cosies up to the Gulf Stream, making it the countrys warmest,
driest area. Nonetheless, the tourist trail mostly bypasses Counties Wexford and Waterford,
which is, of course, great news for anyone with a few days to spare and a love of quiet
roads with sea views. The largely coastal counties are lined with sandy seaside spots, from
Kilmore Quay, a fishing village of thatched, whitewashed cottages, to Tramore, where the
5km beach is overlooked by the Holy Cross Church and the Big Dipper.
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D 167
40
St
ck
on
M
rpe
r's
Ha
St
Sights
Originally a beach where provisions were
boated into the city, the Bull Ring became a
centre for bull baiting in medieval times: the
towns butchers gained their guild charter
20
St U
pp
er
St
St
Ge
or
ge
Up
pe
r
28
St
Lo
er
22
St
ng
Ki
i ty
Bri
de
St
TOILETS
La
Trin
n's Rd
Groga
24
te
ys
ua
in
Pe
St
ter ' s
C3
B1
B1
B2
ul
B3
Pa
t
Al l e n S
10
TRANSPORT
Ardcavan Coach Company Bus
Stop...................................39
Bus Station.............................40
Mace (Bus Tickets)..................41
Wexford Cabs........................42
St La sce
nt
a
29
iett
enr
uth
39
So
St
11
38
St
Mary
19
TOURIST INFORMATION
SOUTHEASTERN STROLLS
ne
An
Cr
The
B3
B2
A2
B3
B4
B3
B2
B2
B2
C3
B3
t
n S
25
35
Ro
13
INFORMATION
St
Allied Irish Bank.......................
1
cis
Bank of Ireland.........................
2
an
Fr
County Wexford Tourism........
3
Main Post Office......................4
My Beautiful Laundrette..........5
National Irish Bank...................6
Office 1....................................7
Readers' Paradise.....................8
Tangiers...................................9
Tourist Office........................10
Wexford Book Centre............11
St
A1
B3
B3
B3
To N25; Johnstown
Castle & Gardens (7km);
Rosslare Strand (12km);
Rosslare Harbour (20km)
we
ai
hM
Sou
POST
y
ua
eQ
us
Ho
St
ENTERTAINMENT
Cineplex.................................34
Theatre Royal.........................35
Wexford Arts Centre..............36
Wexford Festival Opera.........37
Wexford Festival Opera Box
Office.................................38
tom
Jo
hn
St
l St
MONEY
yS
s
Cu
33
12 Qua
n
mar
Corn k e t C o mmo
6
37
1
t
te S
15
's Ga
hn
Jo
S ch o o
23
36
MEDICAL SERVICES
uay
lQ
Rd
DRINKING
Centenary Stores....................32 B2
Sky & the Ground................(see 28)
Thomas Moore Tavern...........33 B3
in
Ma
's
tte
arlo
Ch St
32
7
St
St
n
Joh
42
gh
Hi
LEFT LUGGAGE
No
31
30
rth
No
Upp
er J
ohn
St
Bri
d
for
ex
W
rcia
Lo
we
r
18
C4
B3
B2
B2
C4
C3
B2
B2
e
mm
Co
9 La
rs
Trimm e
14
e
To Ferrybank Camping &
Caravan Park (600m);
Wexford Wildfowl
Reserve (5km); Curracloe
(13km); Dublin (135km)
EATING
Caf Gusto............................24
Cappuccino's..........................25
Dunne's Stores.......................26
Greenacres Food Hall.............27
Heavens Above......................28
La Riva...................................29
Vine.......................................30
Yard.......................................31
dg
org
e
A1
B2
B3
C4
A2
D4
B2
King
3
Westg
ate
16
ne
y
Sla
21
well R
d
27
Se
lsk
Ge
SLEEPING
Auburn Terrace......................17
Blue Door...............................18
Kirwan House.........................19
McDonald's...........................20
McMenamin's Townhouse.....21
Talbot Hotel.......................... 22
White's of Wexford...............23
We
llin
St
ll S
Redmond
Pl 41
26
Hi
Spa
INTERNET ACCESS
LAUNDRY
O'Hanrahan
200 m
0.1 mile
in St
Ma
34
17
rth
Rd
St
Orientation
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Ab
The Vikings named it Waesfjord (meaning harbour of mud flats) and its handy
location near the mouth of the Slaney encouraged landings as early as AD 850. The
Normans captured the town in 1169; traces
of their fort can still be seen in the grounds
of the Irish National Heritage Park.
Cromwell included Wexford in his Irish
tour from 1649 to 1650. Around 1500 of
the towns 2000 inhabitants were put to the
sword, including all the Franciscan friars
the standard treatment for towns that refused to capitulate. During the 1798 Rising,
rebels made a determined, bloody stand in
Wexford town before they were defeated.
Re
dm
l
al
W
History
wn
To
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0
WEXFORD
Pl
BOOKSHOPS
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D W e x f o r d T o w n 169
St
ar
WEXFORD TOWN
Information
lonelyplanet.com
on
gt
lonelyplanet.com
Lo
we
r
168 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D W e x f o r d T o w n
Activities
Sleeping
Accommodation for October, when the
Wexford Festival Opera takes place, is often
booked out months in advance.
BUDGET
about 2km southwest of town. Even hackers will appreciate the views of Wexford and
the harbour.
Right across the river from the centre, council-run Ferrybank is in a windy location but
has fantastic views of town. Facilities include
a heated pool next door, laundry facilities and
a childrens play area.
Kirwan House (%21208; kirwanhostel@eircom.net;
3 Mary St; dm/s/tw/q 22/38/52/44) This basic hostel,
popular with both workers and backpackers, is okay once you get used to its shadowy interior and eccentric atmosphere.
Dorms have en-suite bathrooms, and theres
a dishevelled garden at the back of the old
Georgian building.
Tours
Guided one-hour walking tours (%087-614 0790;
adult/concession/family 4/3.50/10) leave at 10.30am
and 2.30pm Monday to Saturday year-round
from outside the office of County Wexford
Tourism on Westgate.
MIDRANGE
lonelyplanet.com
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D W e x f o r d T o w n 171
Eating
Caf Gusto (%24336; 106 South Main St; snacks & mains
4-9; h9am-3pm Mon-Wed, 9am-5pm Thu-Sat) This
bright little caf is good for a big breakfast
or New York bagel, and lunches such as burgers, goujons (strips of fish or meat coated in
breadcrumbs and deep-fried) and salads.
Cappuccinos (%23669; 25 North Main St; breakfast
5-8; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6.30pm Sun) From
the full Irish to bagels, paninis, wraps and
naan, the imaginatively named Cappuccinos
is perfect for breakfast or a snack. Wexfords
teens come here to tuck into desserts and
the many hot drinks.
Vine (%22388; 109 North Main St; mains 16-20; h610pm) The open kitchen serves fragrant Thai
dishes in this 1st-floor restaurant, a land of
fairy lights, mirrors and metal flowers.
Yard (% 44083; 3 Lower George St; mains 17-25;
h8.30am-10pm) The latest venture from Centenary Stores owner is a cool, intimate restaurant with low lighting, dark furniture,
Air on the stereo and candles on the tables,
alongside contemporary European cuisine.
Heavens Above (% 24877; 112-113 South Main
St; mains 18-25; h5-10pm Mon-Sat, 4-9pm Sun) For
those wanting an eat-out treat without too
much formality, the atmosphere is just right
at this dark-wood-and-candles restaurant
above the Sky & the Ground. The large
portions will appeal to fans of fine meat,
seafood and vegetarian dishes.
o La Riva (% 24330; warrengillen@dol.ie;
Henrietta St; mains 18-28; h6-11pm Mon-Sat) At this
1st-floor bistro, entered via a staircase lined
with rave newspaper reviews, the beautifully presented Irish-Mediterranean dishes
are prepared from organic, locally sourced
ingredients. Admire the creamy soups,
fancy sauces and the glittering views of the
night-time quay.
For self-caterers, theres a Dunnes Stores
(Slaney St; h8am-12am), or you could put together a gourmet picnic at Greenacres Food
Hall (%22975; 7 Selskar St; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat),
which has a great selection of cheese, meats,
olives and wine.
Drinking
Centenary Stores (%24424; thecstores@eircom.net; Charlotte St) One of Wexfords livelier spots, this
former warehouse is a pleasing mix of old
and new, with friezes on the ceiling above
the plasma screens in the bar. Its Guinness is
the best in the vicinity, and the nightclub is
170 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D W e x f o r d T o w n
172 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D A r o u n d W e x f o r d T o w n
TRAIN
Getting Around
Most newsagencies sell parking discs (per
hour 1.20).
For a 24-hour taxi service, call Wexford Cabs
(%23123; 3 Charlotte St) or AA Cabs (%40222). Most
fares around the centre are 5.
Irish country furniture, a horse-drawn caravan and a small Famine exhibition. Theres a
pleasant 15-minute walk around the lake.
The castle is 7km southwest of Wexford
town en route to Murntown.
admission free, guided tours on request; h9am-6pm midAprSep, 10am-5pm Octmid-Apr), which protects
the birds feeding grounds, has an observation tower, assorted hides and a visitor centre
with detailed exhibits. Winter is a good time
to spot the brent goose from Arctic Canada,
and throughout the year youll see numerous
species of wader and wildfowl.
The reserve is over the bridge from Wexford on the Dublin road. Head north for 3km,
before taking the signposted right turn just
before the Mazda garage. The visitor centre
is another 2km along the lane.
Curracloe Beach
Over 11km long, Curracloe is one of a string
of deserted beaches that line the coast north
of Wexford town. The high-octane opening
scenes of the Normandy landing in Saving
Private Ryan (1997) were filmed here. Many
of the birds found at the Wexford Wildfowl
Reserve can also be seen here in the Raven
Nature Reserve. Its 13km northeast of Wexford
off the Dublin road. If youre discreet you can
pitch a tent in the sheltered dunes.
Hotel Curracloe (%37308; www.hotelcurracloe.com;
s/d 45/80) is a small family-run hotel with a
staid, but snug, interior and traditional sessions on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights.
Its a 30-minute walk from the beach.
ROSSLARE STRAND
%05391
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D R o s s l a re S t r a n d 173
film set
Duncannon (p178) gradually sloping
beach ideal for paddlers
Rosslare (left) sand-and-stone strand,
Entertainment
lonelyplanet.com
174 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D R o s s l a re H a r b o u r
ROSSLARE HARBOUR
%05391 / pop 1050
Rosslare Harbour is a busy port with connections to Wales and France from the
monolithic Europort ferry terminal. Its not
particularly pretty or pedestrian friendly,
but if youre waiting for a ferry, or have just
arrived and are too green to go on, theres
plenty of accommodation and restaurants.
The ferry port is the main focus of the town,
where you will also find Rosslare Europort
train station. A road leading uphill from the
harbour becomes the N25 and takes you to
the B&Bs and hotels. Further along this
road are Kilrane and Tagoat, where there are
more sleeping and eating options. Theres a
Bank of Ireland (St Martins Rd) with an ATM and
bureau de change, just off the N25.
Sights
This twee but interesting-all-the-same Yola
Farmstead folk park (%32610; Tagoat; adult/child/
family 6/4.50/15; h10am-6pm, last admission at 5pm
May-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Mar, Apr & Nov) is a
Stena Line Express (%33115; www.stenaline.ie; hMaySep) sails between Rosslare Harbour and Fishguard in Wales (adult 30, motorbike and
driver 67, car and driver 117 to 222, two
hours, two sailings per day). Check-in is about
one hour before sailing. Stena Line also runs
its Superferry (adult 30, motorbike and
driver 52, car and driver 92 to 182, 3
hours, two sailings per day) year-round.
Irish Ferries (%33158; www.irishferries.com) sails to
Pembroke in Wales (3 hours, twice daily).
Single fares start at 29 for a foot passenger,
49 for a motorbike and driver, 89 for a car
and driver. Between April and December there
are ferries to Cherbourg, France (19 hours,
up to three a week) and, between April and
September, less frequent sailings to Roscoff,
France (18 hours). Single fares are from 56
for a foot passenger, 90 for a motorbike and
driver, and 99 for a car and driver.
For more information see p719.
BUS
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D S o u t h o f R o s s l a re H a r b o u r 175
CAR
KILMORE QUAY
%05391 / pop 400
176 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D S a l t e e I s l a n d s
lonelyplanet.com
SALTEE ISLANDS
Once the haunt of privateers, smugglers
and dyvars pyrates, the Saltees now have a
peaceful existence as one of Europes most important bird sanctuaries. Over 375 recorded
species make their home here, 4km offshore
from Kilmore Quay, principally the gannet,
guillemot, cormorant, kittiwake, puffin, aux,
and the Manx shearwater. The best time to
visit is the spring and early-summer nesting
The long, tapering finger of the Hook Peninsula is an undiscovered joy. There are no
blockbustingly major visitor attractions, but
around every other bend is a quiet beach, a
crumbling fortress, a stately abbey or a seafood restaurant. In good weather, its a fine
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D H o o k Pe n i n s u l a & A r o u n d 177
Tintern Abbey
On the way to Fethard-on-Sea is an early
13th-century Cistercian abbey in 100 acres
of woodland. William Marshal, earl of
Pembroke, founded Tintern Abbey (% 562
650; Saltmills; adult/child incl guided tour 2/1; h10am6pm mid-JunSep, 10am-5pm Oct, last admission 45 min
before closing) after he nearly perished at sea
Fethard-on-Sea
pop 330
Hook Head
The journey from Fethard to Hook Head takes
in a hypnotic stretch of horizon and sea, with
few houses between the flat, open fields on the
narrowing peninsula. There are views across
Waterford Harbour and, on a clear day, as far
as the Comeragh and Galtee Mountains.
About 5km northeast of the lighthouse,
ghostly Loftus Hall, built by the Marquis of Ely
in the 1870s, gazes across the estuary at Dunmore East. The English-owned Loftus estate
once covered much of the peninsula.
About 3km further on, turning left at a
small roundabout brings you to the village of
Slade, where the most activity is in the swirl of
seagulls above the ruined castle and harbour.
Further south, dramatic Hook Head is
crowned by Europes, and possibly the worlds,
oldest working lighthouse (%397 055; adult/child
5.50/3; h9.30am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Sat
& Sun Nov-Feb), staffed until 1996. Its said that
lonelyplanet.com
The Moorings (%389 242; Duncannon; s 35-40, d 7080) In a line of cottages with twee names, the
Moorings ticks the friendliness and valuefor-money boxes. Large bathrooms and sofas
abound, and angling can be arranged.
Glendine Country House (%389 500; www.glendine
house.com; Arthurstown; s 75-85, d 110-130) Run by the
Crosbie family in a creeper-covered former
dower house, this guesthouse is homely rather
than stately. Bay windows overlook the estuary and grounds populated by deer, cattle
and sheep. Rooms range from crisp modern
affairs to those stacked with period furniture.
Organic fare and home-baked treats such as
cream teas are on offer.
Dunbrody Country House Hotel & Restaurant
(%389 600; www.dunbrodyhouse.com; Arthurstown; with
breakfast & dinner from s 160-225, d 270-400, restaurant
meal 48-60) Kevin Dundons (see boxed text,
lonelyplanet.com
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D H o o k Pe n i n s u l a & A r o u n d 179
BUS
Dunbrody Abbey
Dunbrody Abbey is a beautiful 12th-century
ruin on the western side of Hook Head, beside the R733 about 9km north of Duncannon, southwest of the village of Campile.
The Dunbrody Abbey Visitor Centre (%388 603;
www.dunbrodyabbey.com; adult/child 2/1; h10am-6pm
Maymid-Sep), as well as allowing entry to the
Cistercian abbey, contains the ruins of Dunbrody Castle (adult/child 4/2), a craft shop and
178 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D H o o k Pe n i n s u l a & A r o u n d
180 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D N e w R o s s
FERRY
NEW ROSS
The big attraction at New Ross (Rhos Mhic
Triin), 34km west of Wexford town, is the
opportunity to board a 19th-century Famine
ship. The town, which developed as a 12thcentury Norman port on the River Barrow,
also advertises itself as the Norman gateway
to the Barrow Valley. Its not especially pretty,
but the eastern bank has some intriguing
steep, narrow streets and St Marys Church.
A group of rebels tried to seize New Ross
during the 1798 Rising. They were repelled
by the defending garrison, leaving 3000 dead
and much of the place in ruins.
The tourist office (%421 857; The Quay; h10am6.30pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Mar) is inside the
Dunbrody Visitor Centre, where theres also
a small caf. Surf the net at Solaak Inventures
(%420 807; 5 The Quay; per hr 4; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat,
1pm-12am Sun).
lonelyplanet.com
murrough.com; MacMurrough; dm 14-16, d 34-40; hMarOct; p) Brian and Jennys farm hostel is in a
%051
ENNISCORTHY
%05392 / pop 3240
Information
The local tourist office (%34699; Mill Park Rd;
h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Easter-Sep,
9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-Easter), inside the National
C O U N T Y W E X F O R D A r o u n d N e w R o s s 181
1798 Rebellion Centre, has free leaflets containing maps of the town and area.
One-hour guided walks (5) of the town can
be booked for a minimum of five people at
Castle Hill Crafts & Tours (%36800; Castle Hill).
At the bottom of Castle Hill, on and around
Abbey Sq, are the main post office and two
banks. Internet Cafe Plus (%43676; 2 Templeshannon; per hr 2; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat &
Sun) overlooks Enniscorthy Bridge.
Sights
Its worth visiting the excellent National 1798
Rebellion Centre (%37198; 98com@iol.ie; Mill Park Rd;
adult/child 6/3.50; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat
& Sun Easter-Sep, 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-Easter) before
182 C O U N T Y W E X F O R D E n n i s c o r t h y
Eating
Baked Potato (%34085; Rafter St; snacks & meals
5.50-8.50; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) One of a cluster
of caf/s doing a brisk trade in homemade
cakes, pies, sandwiches, and daily specials.
De Olde Bridge (%38624; 2 Templeshannon; snacks
lonelyplanet.com
Sleeping
Shopping
The Enniscorthy area has been recognised as
a centre of pottery since the 17th century. One
of the oldest potteries is Carleys Bridge Potteries
(%33512; fax 34360; h9am-12.45pm & 2-5.30pm MonFri), on the road to New Ross. The free Slaney
Bus ireann (%05391-22522) stops on the Shannon Quay on the eastern bank of the river,
FERNS
%05393 / pop 950
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D 183
MT LEINSTER
The highest peak in the Blackstairs is Mt
Leinster (796m), which has magnificent
views of Counties Waterford, Carlow, Kilkenny and Wicklow from the top.
The car park at the foot of the mountain is signposted from Bunclody, 16km
northwest of Ferns. From there, its a steep
1-hour-return walk. Coming from the
Kilkenny side of the mountains, follow the
South Leinster Scenic Drive signs from Borris. The last few kilometres are on narrow,
exposed roads with steep fall-offs.
Mt Leinster is home to some of Irelands
best hang-gliding: contact the Irish Hang Gliding & Paragliding Association (http://ihpa.ie).
For guided walks in the Blackstairs Mountains, contact Brian Gilsenan (%05393-77828).
Ordnance Surveys Discovery map number
68 covers the area.
COUNTY WATERFORD
pop 108,000
Activities
lonelyplanet.com
WATERFORD TOWN
History
In the 8th century Vikings settled at Port
Lirge, which they renamed Vadrafjord
and turned into a booming trading post.
To consolidate their presence there, they
adopted a ferocity that made Waterford the
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COUNTY WATERFORD
To Kilkenny (24km);
Carlow (48km);
Dublin (116km)
Bansha
To Limerick
(56km)
Clonmel
Ballymacarbry
Monavullagh
Mountains
N72
Lismore
Tallowbridge
r Colligan
Rive
Ballyduff
N72
Villierstown
Dungarvan
Seefin
(728m)
Dunganstown
WEXFORD
N24
N9
Curraghmore
Gardens
Waterford
N25
Kilmacthomas
Waterford
Airport
ire
Blackwater
Blackwater Valley
Cappoquin
rN
Mt Melleray
Cistercian
Abbey
Knockanaffrin
(753m)
e
Riv
R672
Nire
Valley
uir
rS
Clogheen
N25
Portlaw
Knockmealdown
Mountains The
Vee
Gap
River
Mullinavat
Carrick-onSuir
Newcastle
Ballyporeen
E30-25
i ve
Fourmilewater
Ardfinnan
KILKENNY
Piltown
N24
st
Ea
r
Ta
ir
r Su
Rive
ver
Ri
Burncourt
N76
N9
Booley
Hills
N76
Cahir
N8
TIPPERARY
E301-8
N24
10 km
6 miles
To Wexford
(32km)
New
Ross
River
Barrow
Passage
East
Crooke
Duncannon
Tramore
Stradbally
E30-25
Clonea
Ballinacourty
Dungarvan
Bay
Helvick
Head
An Rinn
(Ring)
Annestown
Bonmahon
Tramore
Bay
Great
Newtown
Head
Ballyhack
Dunmore
East
Waterford
Harbour
lonelyplanet.com
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D W a t e r f o r d T o w n 185
LAUNDRY
Orientation
Waterford lies on the tidal reach of the
River Suir, 16km from the coast. The main
shopping street runs directly south from
the Suir, beginning as Barronstrand St and
passing through John Roberts Sq before
becoming Broad St, Michael St and John
St, which intersects with Parnell St; this
then runs northeast back up to the quaylined river, becoming The Mall on the way.
Most of the sights and shops lie within
this triangle.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Lighthouse
CORK
E30-25
Youghal
E30-25
To Cork
(20km)
Ardmore
Youghal
Bay
Knockadoon
Head
Ardmore
Bay
INTERNET ACCESS
Mine
Head
St George's
Channel
184 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D W a t e r f o r d T o w n
186 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D W a t e r f o r d
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
WATERFORD
INFORMATION
Allied Irish Bank............................. 1
Main Post Office............................2
Snow White Laundrette.................3
Tourist Office.................................4
Waffle House.................................5
Waterford Book Centre..................6
Waterford e-Centre.......................7
C4
C4
B5
B4
B5
B4
B4
Rice Chapel..................................17 B6
Theatre Royal.............................. 18 C5
Waterford Heritage Survey...........19 B4
Waterford Museum of Treasures..(see 4)
SLEEPING
Avondale..................................... 20
Brown's Townhouse.....................21
Granville Hotel.............................22
Mayor's Walk House....................23
Portree Guesthouse......................24
Rice Guesthouse...........................25
Tower Hotel................................ 26
C5
C6
B4
B5
A4
B6
D5
EATING
47 The Bistro................................27
Bodga!.......................................28
Caf Lucia....................................29
Haricot's Wholefood Restaurant...30
Paddy Gonzales...........................31
B5
C5
C5
B4
C4
200 m
0.1 mile
Saturday market...........................32 B4
Wine Vault.................................. 33 C5
DRINKING
Geoff's.........................................34 B5
Katty Barry's................................35 D5
T&H Doolan's..............................36 B4
ENTERTAINMENT
Forum..........................................37 A4
Garter Lane Arts Centre...............38 B4
Kazbar.......................................(see 28)
Ruby's..........................................39 C6
Waterford Cineplex......................40 B5
TRANSPORT
Altitude (Bicycle Hire).................. 41 A5
Bus ireann Station......................42 A4
Euro Lines..................................(see 42)
Suirway......................................(see 42)
To Kilkenny (48km);
Dublin (167km)
Rice
Brid
ge
ay
ry
St
42
St
24
Qu
Ma
Brid
ge
Gra
tta
n
Dock
Rd
er c
Henrietta S
t
Excha
ng
St e
Keyse
r St
Conduit L
a
Al
St
Stephen
r S
t
Ri
Jo
People's
Park
21
er
at
W
Ma
no
ve
's
hn
Sou
th P
de
Rd
sy
's
es
Gd
ns
Jail St
as
om
Fra
ncis
We
St
lling
St ton
St
e S
t
cause of punitive taxes imposed by the British. Revived last century, the business now
employs 700 people, among them highly
skilled glass-blowers, cutters and engravers.
The glass is a heavy-lead crystal made from
red lead, silica sand and potash.
Bus 3C runs there from opposite the Clock
Tower every 15 minutes (1.50).
39
s tl
St
rk
Rd
Pa
St
St
28
n
Joh
nn
rd
ill
r
He
a
Lomb
tH
en
nv
Co
o
an
M
ill
ll
Ma
's
La
Ca
M ic h a e l S t
r' s
hn
Jo
Pe t e
25
17
34
La
B akee- La
City Sq H ous
sL
Mayor's Walk
La
Walsh
s Sq
n St
Gree
rt'
Newpo
St
Pa
el
rn
Spr
ing
Hi l l
es
Ja
Th
'
kin
en
Th
t
's S
le
Doy
ck
rra
Ba
Apple
Market
t
wS
Ne
Greyfriars St
Broad St Barronstrand St
St
P en
Hano
ve
St r
ros
e
La
h an
Rive
The
r Suir
ts Q
Quay
uay
O'
Co
nn
Mea
ell
4
gher
St
Qua
12
y
7
ll
hi
22
er
30
Co
m
m
Geo
1 al Qu
38
u
rges
S
ay
Thoma s
Pa ra
36
S
de Q
t
32
15
uay
J
John
Custo
31
m Ho
37
Roberts
use
8
2
19 Sq
Qu
e
6
High St
29
a
Gl
St ay
en
13 ew
Morg
City
Square
33
N
an St
16
Bailey's
Shopping
40
26
Centre
St Patrick's
Ballybricken
11
10
Patrick St 27
18
Gate
Green
41
ll
5
Dunne's
a
a
9
L
3
14
y
M
Lad
Cathedral
Store
e
35
Rd
Alexande
Square
23
Th
r St
St
el l o w
La
L o w er Y
20
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D W a t e r f o r d T o w n 187
To Waterford
Airport (7km)
To Waterford Regional
Hospital (2.5km);
Dunnmore East (20km)
CHURCHES
Plunkett
Train
Station
lonelyplanet.com
188 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D W a t e r f o r d T o w n
OTHER BUILDINGS
snail.
Sleeping
Waterford is bereft of budget accommodation, but frequent buses to Tramore allow
you to base yourself at one of the budget
options there.
MIDRANGE
Eating
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D W a t e r f o r d T o w n 189
Drinking
The nightlife relies heavily on the students at
the Waterford Institute of Technology, many
of whom disappear home at weekends.
T&H Doolans (%841 504; 32 Georges St) A licensed establishment for over 300 years,
historic Doolans is a popular place to watch
sport on the box and live bands with names
like the Shamrocks and the Dead Beats.
Geoffs (%874 787; 9 John St; mains 4-8; hfood
served noon-8.30pm Mon-Sat) This cavernous pub
with creaky wooden floors and rock music
pumping from the speakers packs in a lively
student crowd.
Katty Barrys (%855 095; Mall La) Dont be
discouraged by the plain exterior and sidestreet location; this small, friendly place
serves a smooth Guinness.
Entertainment
Clubs and slick bars are concentrated around
the Apple Market area. The best are Rubys,
where cover bands play for free, and Kazbar,
both on John St.
Garter Lane Arts Centre ( % 855 038;
boxoffice@garterlane.ie; OConnell St) This is a much
complimented theatre in an 18th-century
building, staging art-house films, exhibitions,
music, dance and plays.
Theatre Royal (%874 402; the Mall) Stages theatre,
musicals and dance.
Forum (%871 111; www.forumwaterford.com; The
Glen) The mighty Forum hosts everything
from gay club nights to the Irish kick-boxing championships. Its venues include the
Gallery Theatre.
Waterford Cineplex (%843 399; Patrick St) This
five-screen complex shows mainstream films
for 8/5 per adult/child.
Tours
GENEALOGICAL CENTRE
If you have ancestors from the county, Waterford Heritage Survey (%876 123; Jenkins La; h9am1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri) may have the
details you need to complete the family tree.
lonelyplanet.com
190 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D D u n m o re E a s t
Getting Around
AIR
DUNMORE EAST
%051 / pop 1550
Strung out along a coastline of red sandstone cliffs and discreet coves, Dunmore
East (Dn Mr) is a special spot. The views
across to Hook Head lighthouse in County
Wexford are magnificent; the main street
is lined with thatched cottages; and the
working harbour is overlooked by an unusual Doric lighthouse (1825) and cliffs full of
screaming kittiwakes.
Dunmores most popular beaches are the
south-facing Counsellors Beach, among the
cliffs, and Ladies Cove in the village. They can
get busy with day-trippers from Waterford,
20km northwest.
In the 19th century, the town was a station for the steam packets that carried mail
between England and the south of Ireland.
Sea Safari (%086-813 1437; adult/child 30/20;
hnoon, 1.30pm & 3pm Easter-Sep), run by the vivacious winner of RT reality TV show Cabin
Fever, offers one-hour trips in a high-powered
10m rib around caves, shipwrecks, fishermen
and seals.
Dunmore East Adventure Centre (%383 783; www
.dunmoreadventure.com) hires out equipment for
windsurfing, canoeing, surfing and snorkelling. Two-hour tasters to week-long activity packages are available in these sports and
others, including archery and rock climbing.
If you fancy shark fishing or exploring
wrecks off the coast contact Dunmore East
Angling Charters (%383 397).
There are great views of town from the 18hole golf course (%383 151; week/weekend 25/35).
Sleeping
Brookside (% 383 893; alanpriest@eircom.net; Ballymabin; s/d 50/70; h Apr-Oct; p ) A friendly,
English-run B&B with a modern feel to the
en-suite rooms.
lonelyplanet.com
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D T r a m o re 191
TRAMORE
Sights
Tramore Bay is hemmed in by Great Newtown
Head to the southwest and Brownstown Head to
the southeast. Their 20m-high concrete pillars
were erected by Lloyds of London in 1816
after a shipping tragedy: 363 lives were lost
when the Seahorse mistook Tramore Bay for
Waterford Harbour and was wrecked.
The Metal Man, a huge 18th-century sailor
made from iron, stands at Great Newtown
Head. In white breeches and blue jacket, he
points dramatically seawards as a warning
to approaching ships. Legend has it that if
a girl hops around the base of the statue
three times on one leg, she will be married
within a year.
There are good views of the heads from Guillamene Cove, where a sign dating back over 60
years decrees that the beach is for men only.
A SNEAKY SHORTCUT
If youre travelling between Counties Waterford and Wexford, cut out a long detour around Waterford Harbour and the River Bannow by taking the car ferry (%382 480; http://homepage.eircom.net
/~passferry; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat & 9.30am-10pm Sun Apr-Sep, 7am-8pm Mon-Sat & 9.30am-8pm Oct-Mar).
The boat runs between Passage East, about 11km east of Waterford town, and Ballyhack in
County Wexford. Both are pretty little fishing villages with thatched cottages and neat harbours,
and the five-minute crossing is a short burst of pleasure.
Theres a continuous service throughout the day. Tickets for pedestrians cost 1.50/2 single/
return, for cyclists 2/3, for cars 8/11. Return tickets are valid for an unlimited time.
Suirway (opposite) runs three buses daily Monday to Saturday to Passage East from Waterford.
192 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D T r a m o re
Activities
Sleeping
Newtown Caravan & Camping Park (%381 979;
www.newtowncove.com; Dungarvan Coast Rd; camp sites
23; hEaster-Sep) About 2km out of town, this
Eating
DUNGARVAN
%058 / pop 7800
Nestling beneath the Monavullagh and Comeragh hills, market town Dungarvan (Dn
Garbhn) has a picturesque waterfront ringing the bay where the River Colligan meets
the sea. Overlooking the bay are the ruins of
a castle and an Augustinian abbey.
St Garvan founded a monastery here in
the 7th century, but most of the centre dates
from the early 19th century when the duke of
Devonshire rebuilt the streets around Grattan
Sq. Modern Dungarvan is the administrative
centre of Waterford.
Dungarvan has some great restaurants and
makes a convenient base for exploring western County Waterford, the Ring Peninsula
and the mountainous north.
Most of the banks are on Grattan Sq. Internet access is available at Sip & Surf (%48658;
Located behind the post office, this gastropub with the feel of a smugglers haunt serves
locally caught fish in slurpcious portions, as
Davitts Quay; per hr 5; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am5.30pm Sat, 2-6pm Sun) and for free at the library
(%41231; The Quay).
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D D u n g a r v a n 193
century British army barracks house a visitor centre with various exhibits. Admission
is by guided tour.
Waterford County Museum (% 45960; www
.dungarvanmuseum.org; St Augustine St; admission free;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat Jun-Sep) is small but
Sleeping
The Whitehouse (%41951; Youghal Rd; s/d 35/60;
p) Willie and Olive White, parents of the
local musician Ollie, run a friendly budget
B&B with a conservatory, 10 minutes walk
from the centre.
Caseys Townhouse (%44912; 8 Emmet Tce; s/d
40/60) Theres a real sense of house-pride
in this tranquil B&B in an early-1900s town
house. Breakfasts are huge and delicious,
with a scrambled-egg-and-smoked-salmon
escape from the Irish fry-up.
Mountain View House (%/fax 42588; www.mountain
viewhse.com; OConnell St; s 55-70, d 90-100; pi)
194 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D R i n g Pe n i n s u l a
An old leather tannery has been miraculously transformed into one of Irelands
most innovative restaurants. Top chef Paul
Flynn creates seasonally changing dishes
(described as modern Irish food with a
continental twist), like whole baked hake,
wild-rabbit lasagna with lemon, sage and
hazelnut butter, and roast lump of lamb
with feta cheese and mint. Everything is
served so beautifully that its almost
almost a shame to eat it.
Entertainment
RING PENINSULA
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D A r d m o re 195
The bare bones of a seaside village overlooking the strand, Ardmore may look pretty but
insignificant, but its claimed that St Declan
set up shop here between 350 and 420. This
brought Christianity to southeast Ireland long
before St Patrick arrived from Britain to convert the heathens. Above the popular resort
are a finely preserved 12th-century round tower
and some cobweb-banishing cliff walks.
Guides to the local area are available at Ardmore Pottery (%94152; h10am-6pm May-Sep, 10am6pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr).
In a striking position on a hill above town,
the ruins of St Declans Church stand on the site
of St Declans original monastery alongside a
cone-roofed, 29m-high, 12th-century round
tower, one of the best examples of these structures in Ireland.
ARDMORE
%024 / pop 415
Eating
lonelyplanet.com
196 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D C a p p o q u i n & A r o u n d
LISMORE
%058 / pop 790
Information
The helpful tourist office (% 54975; lismore
heritage@eircom.net; Main St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
10am-5.30pm Sat, noon-5.30pm Sun May-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm
Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) can be found inside the Lismore
Sights
One of the neatest and prettiest edifices I
have seen, commented William Thackeray in
1842 about the striking St Carthages cathedral
(1679). And that was before the addition of
the Edward Burne-Jones stained-glass window,
which features all the Pre-Raphaelite hallmarks: an effeminate knight and a pensive
maiden against a sensuous background of
deep-blue velvet and intertwining flowers.
Justice, with sword and scales, and Humility,
holding a lamb, honour Francis Currey, who
helped to relieve the suffering of the poor
during the Famine.
The cathedral also contains some noteworthy tombs, including the elaborately carved
MacGrath family crypt dating from 1557. A
tour leaflet (2), aimed at kids but fun for all,
leads you round the buildings oddities and
wonders, including the fossils in the pulpit!
From the Cappoquin road there are
stunning glimpses of the riverside Lismore
Castle, which is closed to day-trippers but
available for groups to hire from 4000 per
night. You can visit the three hectares of
gardens (%54424; www.lismorecastle.com; adult/child
7/3.50; h1.45pm-4.45pm Apr-Oct, from 11am Jun-Aug),
thought to be the oldest in Ireland, divided
into the walled Jacobean upper garden and
less formal lower garden. There are brilliant
herbaceous borders, magnolias and camellias, and a splendid yew walk where Edmund Spenser is said to have written The
Faerie Queen. The contemporary sculptures
dotting the gardens have been joined by a
contemporary art gallery (%54061; www.lismore
C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D L i s m o re 197
the castle.
The original castle was erected by Prince
John, Lord of Ireland, in 1185. After a stint as
the local bishops residence, it was presented
to Sir Walter Raleigh in 1589 along with 200
sq km of the surrounding countryside. He
later sold it to the earl of Cork, Richard Boyle,
whose son Robert, known as the father of
modern chemistry for devising Boyles Law,
was born here.
Most of the current castle was constructed
in the early 19th century. During its rebuilding, workmen discovered the 15th-century
Book of Lismore and 12th-century Lismore
Crozier, both in the National Museum in Dublin. The book not only documents Irish saints
lives, but also has an account of Marco Polos
voyages. The castle is owned by Peregrine Cavendish, 12th Duke of Devonshire, who also
owns Chatsworth in Derbyshire, England.
In the old courthouse is the Lismore Heritage
Centre (%54975; www.discoverlismore.com; Main St; adult/
child 4.50/4; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5.30pm Sat,
noon-5.30pm Sun May-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr).
The fascinating interpretive centre, which features an audiovisual presentation, takes you
from the arrival of St Carthage in AD 636 to
the present day, via the discovery of the Book
of Lismore behind a wall in the castle in 1814
and John F Kennedys visit in 1947.
lonelyplanet.com
198 C O U N T Y W AT E R F O R D N o r t h e r n C o u n t y W a t e r f o r d
Foleys (%53671; Main St; mains 10-24; h9am9pm) This pub serves a good selection of
steak, fish and homemade burgers, with extra
temptations such as cheese sauces, in relaxing
surrounds with peacock wallpaper, leatherbacked benches and an open fire.
cottage.com; Nire Valley, Ballymacarbry; s 120-170, d 170250) This 19th-century ancestral home next to
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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the above - Do the right thing with our content.
Sleeping
Some of the most scenic parts of County Waterford are in the north around Ballymacarbry
and in the Nire Valley, which runs between
the Comeragh and Monavullagh Mountains.
While not as rugged as the west of Ireland, with
which it shares the same 370-million-year-old
red sandstone, this mountain scenery has a
stark beauty of its own and doesnt attract much
tourist traffic. Its also a great area to catch traditional music and dancing, whether in pubs like
Melodys Nire View or around kitchen tables.
Lord and Lady Waterford dwell at Curraghmore Gardens (%051-387 102; fax 051-387 481; Portlaw;
www.lonelyplanet.com