Underneath

the Kilt
Edinburgh 2010

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 Contents
6-7 Introduction
8-11 Accomodation
12-13 Public Transport
14-19 Food & Drink
20-29 history & sights

30-35 Museum & Art

36-51 Literature & Film

52-59 Shopping & Fashion

60-77 Entertainment
78-81 Surrounding Areas
82-87 Highlands
88-90 Scottish vocabulary
91 About Us
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Photos on this page by Sanna Giovanoli

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 Introduction
Text by Raphaela Schedel, photos by Sanna Giovanoli

Sure, you all want to know what‘s underneath the

kilt. It was probably the reason why you opened this
book - but not so fast. This is not a dirty magazine but
a travel guide about Edinburgh. Shame on you and
your nasty thoughts!

Nevertheless: In this city it‘s not unusual to see men

in kilts. They are not a cliché but a reality in Edin-
burgh as well as in the whole of Scotland. As the
capital of a stunning country, Edinburgh is like the
moon among many stars. The town has the perfect
mixture between dark and mysterious on the one
hand and modern and energetic on the other.

As a tourist we all know that it‘s kind of a must to

do some typical tourist things. The first thing to do
is to see all the famous sights of a town. Especially in
Edinburgh there are so many sights that it might be
difficult for you to see all of them. Edinburgh Castle,
Arthurs Seat, Calton Hill, The Royal Mile, The Grass-
market, Greyfrairs Churchyard. And so on.

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Secondly there needs to be an entertaining pro-
gramme. Here is where opinions differ: For those of
you who love the thrill, Edinburgh holds scary gra-
veyards, evil spirits and dark undergrounds for you to
discover. Others again want to visit museums, learn
more about Scottish history or just simply want to go
shopping. The rest just wants wild party nights out.
(That‘s probably the largest group).

Be assured that all of your desires will be fulfilled:

Most of the museums are for free, there are plenty
of shopping malls, streets and little shops and as for
the nightlife there are so many pubs and clubs that
everyone will be taken care of.

If not you have the choice to come to Edinburgh

when a festival is running and lucky you: There are
lots of festivals during the whole year.
If you finally have enough of this varied city you can
visit Edinburgh‘s beautiful surrounding areas.

A little too much right now? Don‘t worry. We made

this guide for you to make your trip to Edinburgh
unique and unforgettable. So go on discovering this
guide. It will be a help for you. (Don‘t you dare say
something different) Keep this guide always by your
side and enjoy your time in Edinburgh: City of end-
less opportunities.

Your Travel Guide Team

P.S. Oh, right. What is underneath the kilt..? That‘s up

to you to explore.
7
 Accomodation
Sweet dreams

Text & Photos by Julia Nickenig

There are many hostels and hotels in Edinburgh not overstretching young
people’s budget. Here is a selection with the most important information (All
prices as at March 2010, seasonal changes possible.).

Hostels

Budget Backpackers
37 Cowgate, Edinburgh EH1 1JR
+44 (0)131 226 6351

Located near Grassmarket this friendly hostel is in

the neighbourhood of many individual stores, pubs
and clubs.
It offers self-service kitchens, a dining room and
a chill-out room. Internet terminals and Wi-Fi are
available. The reception is open 24h a day.
Dorms from £8.50, Twins from £17.00; linen included,
breakfast: £2; lockers in every room
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 High Street Hostel
8 Blackfriars Street, Edinburgh EH1 1NE
+44 (0)131 557 3984

The first independent youth-hostel in Edinburgh is

located in an over 400-year-old building in the heart
of the city centre.
A self-service kitchen, a dinner party-lounge and a
quiet lounge make your stay comfortable and rela-
xing. Internet terminals and Wi-Fi are available. The
reception is open 24h a day
Dorms from £13, Double from £45.50 for two per-
sons; linen included, breakfast £1.90,
lockers in every room

Princes Street East Backpackers

5 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA
+44 (0)131566 6894

The hostel is situated in a small street just off Princes Street – the main shopping
street of Edinburgh. It is a 5 minute walk from the railway station.
Guests can use the two self-catering kitchens, relax in the video lounge and en-
joy free tea and coffee. Around the clock you have the possibility to buy drinks,
sweets, phone cards, toiletries, etc. at the reception. There are 3 internet termi-
nals, Wi-Fi is available throughout the hostel.
Dorms from £11, Double from £30 for two persons; linen included; lockers in eve-
ry room

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 Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel
9 Haddington Place, Edinburgh EH7 4AL
+44 (0)131 524 2090

This five star hostel is a bit more expensive but very

comfortable and tidy. It just takes few minutes to
walk to the main attractions of Edinburgh.
Besides self-catering facilities there are a bar and a
restaurant offering full dining.
Internet terminals and Wi-Fi are available. The recep-
tion is open 24h a day.
Dorms from £16, Double from £51 for two persons;
all rooms have en-suite shower and WC.
Linen included; breakfast £4.25, lockers in every
room
Wheelchair-friendly rooms are available on request

Hotels

Herald House Hotel

70-72 Grove Street, Edinburgh EH3 8AP
+44(0)131 2282323

The two star hotel is situated in Fountainbridge, two

kilometres from the major tourist attractions.
Rooms are small but clean and tidy. They are equip-
ped with Colour TV, wireless internet access, telepho-
ne, hairdryer and tea/coffee making facilities. A bar
offers snack and drinks.
Double rooms from £45, breakfast included
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 Jury’s Inn Edinburgh Hotel: 43 Jeffrey Street, Edin-
burgh EH1 1DH; +44 (0)131 200 3300

The hotel is centrally located in the Old Town of Edin-

burgh.
Although the building might not look very attractive
from the outside it is very comfortable inside.
High speed internet access, Satellite TV, Voice Mail
and a tea/coffee tray are available in all 186 rooms.
You can enjoy full dining in the restaurant or have a
drink and a quick lunch at the bar.
Double rooms from £59, wheelchair-friendly rooms
are available on request

The West End Hotel: 35 Palmerston Place, Edinburgh

EH12 5AU; +44 (0)131 225 3656

A ten minute walk away from the city centre, this

hotel offers private hotel rooms as well as shared
rooms. All hotel rooms are well equipped including
flat screen plasma TVs, hair dryers and tea/coffee fa-
cilities. Shared rooms are available in different sizes
and are a cheap alternative for low budget travellers.
Guests can prepare their own meal in a self-service
kitchen or visit the modern bar.
Internet access is available.
Double rooms from £70, Triple rooms from £105,
Quad rooms from £120 breakfast included
Shared rooms from £10 per person, breakfast £3.00
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 Public Transport
Cruisin’ around

Text & Photos by Sanna Giavanoli

Going upstairs on a double-decker bus while the bus driver is showing off his
skills can be a shaky adventure. First you have to find the bus stop you need. Bu-
ses only stop at every other stop in the city centre. Arriving at the right stop you
may see a queue. Join the end of the line, otherwise you might get a disappro-
ving glance. When you get on the bus, have the exact fare ready; the bus driver
won’t give you any change. After taking the ticket, the really courageous person
dares to go upstairs now. But take care, don’t break your neck! Once safe on the
second floor, enjoy the view. Don‘t forget to say thank you to the bus driver, when
you leave the bus, even if you don‘t know where he got his licence.

Buses are the best way to move through the city, its surrounding areas and even
the whole country. There are several bus companies, specialising in different are-
as. Lothian Regional Transport is the main provider of bus services in the city
and runs mainly double-decker buses. Most of the routes go via Princes Street.
Lothian Buses run the night buses too. For travelling further afield Scottish City-
link goes to cities across the UK. The Flybus links the city centre to the airport in
twenty minutes. There are also diffrent open top double-decker buses for tourist
sight seeing. The tours start at Waverly Station in the city centre.

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The Waverley Station is
one of the main train
stations in Edinburgh.
Travelling by train is qui-
te expensive compared
to the buses and there
aren’t many areas co-
vered by rail further in
the north.

In 2007 the council deci-

ded to rebuild the tram
rails through Edinburgh.
After being absent from
the city‘s streets for 50
years the trams will con-
nect Leith to the airport
at great cost and energy.
This is the first phase of
the new Edinburgh tram
system due in 2014. If
you want a long, angry
conversation with a local,
just mention the trams.

If you prefer travelling

by car, there are a lot of
the legendary black ta-
xis. You can also rent a
car if you want to go out
of Edinburgh, but please
mind that in the UK peo-
ple drive on the wrong
side of the street

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 Food & Drink
Don’t ask, just dig in

Text and photos by Janine Glozat

Brave as a Scotsman - Scottish Taste-Adventure

The Scots are proud people. The harsh climate of the Highlands and a history full
of violent conflicts hardened them. Mid-European stomachs can share in that
bravery the Scots have shown over hundreds of years when they taste the typi-
cal Scottish cuisine. But it is not only an adventure for the stomach, it is also an
exciting rollercoaster for the taste buds. Steel yourself, grab a napkin and dig in.

Haggis

A brown bowl with a sleek surface beside neeps and

tatties which is Scots for turnip and potatoes – if this
description fits what is on your plate you may be
about to taste haggis. Inside of the bowl you find a
mass similar to mincemeat. The consistency and the
taste may remind you of black pudding. On your visit
in Edinburgh you definitely have to take this taste-
adventure in one of the hundreds of pubs or bistros
in the city where haggis is offered on the daily menu.
Although haggis is a traditional recipe, it has also
moved with the time: For a snack you can get a “hag-
gis to go” in some takeaway places. And even Vegeta-
rians do not have to abandon the phenomenal taste
by enjoying a veggy haggis from the supermarket. If
you have absolutely fallen in love with haggis, don´t
worry. You can even order original haggis from the
Burgh on www.haggis.de.
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Readers with a weak stomach who want to build a
fair-minded judgement by tasting haggis should not
read this preparation beforehand. Brace yourselves.
So, you take a sheep´s stomach, wash it inside and
outside and fill it with a pre-cooked stuffing of in-
nards of pig or beef, onions, spices and oatmeal. After
closing it with needle and thread the whole bowl has
to be cooked in water for a minimum of three hours.
You eat it warm and – not unimportant – without the
sheep´s paunch.

Cock-a-leckie-Soup

A day in Auld Reekie which is one of many names for

Edinburgh can sometimes be very cold. With frozen
hands and shivering knees you might be glad for a
hot cock-a-leckie-soup. This concoction is not as ex-
ceptional as haggis but it is a long-established star-
ter on festive days like the anniversary of the famous
poet Robert Burns.
The recipe was invented in the 16th century, whe-
re people tried to create a filling dish from the little
food they had. So they took a chicken, leek, prunes,
spices and sometimes other cheap vegetables and
cooked it together. By now, there are over 100 mo-
dern variations of this soup with all kinds of ingre-
dients like avocado or risotto.
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 Hog Roast Rolls

Another meal which re-

quires mental stability
while eating it can be
found in a shop called
“Oink” on Victoria Street.
It is known as Hog Roast
Rolls and you can be ab-
solutely sure that the fil-
ling of your roll is fresh.
You even meet the pig
from which your pork is
taken because the who-
le sucking-pig lies in the
window of the shop.
Besides pork you can
also add apple or chilli
sauce, onion stuffing and
even slices of haggis. For
a perfect snack on an
exhausting day in Edin-
burgh enjoy a real tasty
Hog Roast Roll while the
sucking-pig lasts.

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Slàinte, Cheers and Good Health - Besides the uisge beatha!

Single-Malt-Whisky, Grain Whisky, Blended Whisky, peaty, smoky or fruity – after a

few days in Scotland you will be an expert in tasting nearly 15,000 sorts of Scot-
tish Whisky (at least your head felt like it was 15,000) and you ask yourself what
else to drink now? Do not be afraid, there is still more taste to be discovered,
some more, others less. But decide on your own. Here are some suggestions.

IRN BRU

“Made in Scotland, from

Girders” – You think this
is only an advertising slo-
gan? Just have a look at
Scottish people: they are
uncommonly strong and
persistent. To leave no
doubt, just have a glass
of this bright orange,
very sweet and incom-
parable tasting drink af-
ter a party night. With its
32 ingredients like sugar,
ammonium ferric citra-
te, caffeine and quinine
it kills every hangover. It
is even so effective that
in some countries it is
categorised as a drug.
But that can´t keep the
Scots away from their
most popular soft drink,
especially after a night of
whisky tasting.

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 Scottish Ales

Doing a pub tour around

Auld Reekie without
tasting Ale? Impossible.
First you have to decide
how strong your beer
should be. It differs from
3.5 to 6 percent of alco-
hol content. Real Scot-
tish ales are strong beers
but you can also choose
a light one from one of
the various breweries in
and around Edinburgh.
Most ales are smooth
and malty with a dark
colour. Their taste is soft,
nearly sweet and that´s
why ales are even loved
by women. And don´t be
afraid that your ale is not
fresh because of a low
head: this beer is drawn
with less carbon dioxide
than a pilsner beer.

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Cider

Imagine a wood pa-

nelled, narrow pub. A
rugby game is shown
on a television in a dark
corner. Bulky guys sit at
the counter, drinking -
cider. Yes, cider. Forget
the smooth summer
evening in a bistro in
Provence in France, ci-
der is a famous drink in
the whole of UK and you
can find it in nearly eve-
ry Pub in the Burgh. Like
beer, cider here is drawn
on a tap like ales. And
if you cannot quit with
beer, just order a Snake
Bite and the Bartender
will mix you the cider
with a shot of light beer.
Cheers!

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 history & sights
Places to know, Places to go

Text & photos by Sylvia Kasmann

History is all around

When walking through the streets of Edinburgh, you feel as if you have just tra-
velled 600 years back in time. The ancient castle which has dominated the city’s
skyline since the seventh century lets Edi glow in the light of long gone kings. The
cobblestoned streets and winded alleys seem to be shaped by old stories from
Edinburgh’s founding days to the modern times. Medieval houses guard those
streets and not few of them were sites of murder, theft and betrayal. You simply
cannot escape history while visiting Edi. We know that history is not everybody’s
thing but you do not have to listen to dull stories told by someone who looks as
ancient as the things he talks about to learn something about the city. Instead,
you can stroll around the capital and have a look at its many sights which reflect
Edinburgh’s history in an illustrative way. Edinburgh wears history on its sleeve.
You will learn about Maggie Dickinson who was hanged but lived another 40 ye-
ars after that. About the most faithful dog in the world, Bobby, that did not leave
his master even after the latter’s death. About the creepiest poltergeist haunting
in Edinburgh, about a king on a donkey, and many other things. So just have a
walk through Edi, you will see that it’s worth your time.

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The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile is a real

ragbag of sights. It leads
from Holyrood Palace up
to the Castle and is one
mile long (the Scots are
not really the most crea-
tive people when it co-
mes to naming things).
You can find a lot of his-
tory on it, like at St. Giles
High Kirk or the Castle, as
well as a lot of shops that
lure you with cashmere,
tartan, tweed and Celtic
jewellery.

Holyrood Palace

You can find the Holyro-

od Palace at the east end
of the Royal Mile. It is the
official residence of the
Queen when she stays
in Scotland, so watch out
for the British flag while
visiting it. If it is hoisted,
she is in town. However,
Holyrood has not always
been a royal home. Ori-
ginally, it was an Abbey,
build in the 12th centu-
ry that was expanded
throughout the years.
Since the 15th century
it has been serving as a
residence for monarchs
and accommodating fa-
mous people like Mary,
Queen of the Scots.
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 The Parliament

Whilst in Edi, you have to see the new Scottish Parliament Building, finished in
2004. It is a spectacular example of modern architecture situated next to Holy-
rood Park. The architect, Enric Miralles, wanted to design a building that would
seem to grow out of nature. Therefore, he threw some leaves on a piece of paper
and decided that the newly established Scottish parliament should look exactly
like that. If you look at it today, it is easy to see the natural influences, like the leaf
shaped buildings and grass covered roofs. Go there, it’s worth a visit.

St. Giles High Kirk

This church is located in the middle of the Royal Mile

and has been one of Edinburgh’s religious centres
for 900 years. It was named in honour of the pat-
ron of Edi, St. Giles. The kirk was founded during the
1120s when the royal Scottish family made efforts to
spread Christianity. It played a decisive role during
the Reformation in Scotland as one of its priests was
John Knox, who was the founder of the Presbytarian
Church. He was buried in the graveyard of the ca-
thedral, which was turned into a car park a couple
of hundred years later. Besides the historical impor-
tance, St. Giles is an interesting piece of architecture
as well. Its gothic style and colourful windows create
an atmosphere of warmth and mystery.
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Edinburgh Castle

The most popular attraction in Edinburgh is of course the castle. This mighty
fortress is the city’s symbol and, together with the Old and New Town, part of the
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its most prominent characteristic is that it is built
on a huge rock which was created by volcanic activity approximately 340 million
years ago. There have been settlements on this rock since 900 BC. The first histo-
rical reference to Din Eidyn, a fortress on the rock, stems from 600 AD. The castle
has often been in the centre of the never ending quarrels between the Scots and
the English. It has been repeatedly invaded by the English and recaptured by the
Scots. If you are planning to visit it, you should have a lot of time on your back as
it offers many different museums to illustrate its history.

Grassmarket

The Grassmarket is a small area of central

Edinburgh, southeast of the castle. From
the 15th to the early 20th century it used
to be a market of horse and cattle as well
as place of public executions. The most
famous story about Grassmarket is that
of half-hanged Mary Dickinson. Today
you do not encounter any (supposedly)
dead people dangling from the gallows,
but a lot of students, lively pubs, cool
clubs, individual second-hand shops and
cheap hotels. The young cannot miss
Grassmarket.
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 Greyfriars Kirkyard
If you are a person who
is into mystery, you have
to go to Greyfriars Kir-
kyard. This graveyard is
situated on the southern
edge of the Old Town. It
is prominent for two en-
tirely different things: the
most vicious poltergeist
haunting in Edinburgh
and the most faithful
dog in the world. Buried
in this graveyard is Geor-
ge MacKenzie, who died
in 1691 and during his li-
ving days once executed
100 men in one day. He
was not very popular in
Edi, as you might guess,
and even after his death
he tried to murder peo-
ple, or so it is believed.
A more heartwarming
story is that of the dog
Bobby. When his master
died and was interred
on Greyfriars Kirkyard,
Bobby sat at his master’s
grave everyday for 14
years. There is a memo-
rial dedicated to him in
Greyfriars Kirkyard and
also a statue near its ent-
rance. It is the most pho-
tographed sculpture in
Edinburgh.
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Arthur’s Seat
When you are walking
through Edinburgh, you
cannot help noticing
the huge hill that is very
close to the city’s centre.
Arthur’s Seat is the main
peak of the group of
mounds that form Holy-
rood Park, which is basi-
cally wild Highland land-
scape in the town. It is
251 metres (823 ft) high
and climbing it might
be a bit tiring. But if you
should start seeing stars
in front of your eyes, just
think of the magnificent
panoramic view that you
will be rewarded with
when you get to the top.
There is no other place
in Edinburgh that deli-
vers such an excellent
picture of the whole city.
So climb it, it’s worth the
effort.
Photos on this page by Sanna Giovanoli

25
 Calton Hill

Another prominent peak is Calton Hill, which is quite close to Arthur’s Seat. It
offers a fantastic view of the city as well, but unlike Arthur’s Seat, Calton Hill
harbours several buildings and monuments. There is for example St. Andrew’s
House, which has accommodated part of the Scottish government since 1999.
Moreover, you can find the National Monument up there, which is a memorial to
those who died in the Napoleonic wars and many more. Therefore, Calton Hill is
the perfect mix of relishing a great view and history.

Photos on this page by Pamela Kölbl

26
The Heart of Midlothian

When hearing this phrase, most people will think of Edinburgh’s football club.
However, we do not talk about sports here, but about the only spot in town on
which you are allowed to spit without earning any disgusted looks.
The Heart of Midlothian is a heart shaped mosaic in the pavement near the West
Door of St. Giles High Kirk on the Royal Mile. Together with some bricks it records
the position of 15th century Tolbooth, which used to be an administrative cen-
tre, a prison and a site of execution. It was demolished in 1817 and back in tho-
se days, Edinburgh was in the middle of the Scottish county Midlothian, which
changed due to political amendments.
Being a prison and a place of execution, Tolbooth was not very popular amongst
the people of Edinburgh. Especially criminals were not at all fond of the place
and expressed their dislike by spitting on it. This became a fashion in Edinburgh
that is still valid today. Whenever people are unhappy about the local policy or
about anything else, they spit on the heart shaped mosaic while passing by.
As a tourist you do not even have to be mad about anything at all to be allowed
to spit on it. There is a legend saying that if you do it, you are destined to return
to Edi. However, some tourists do not seem to get the real message of the heart.
Once there was a guy who got so carried away by the romantic shape of the
mosaic that he proposed to his girlfriend on it. Here is a piece of advice: do NOT
imitate this, standing in a puddle of spit while proposing is not the best way to
start an engagement! Nevertheless, feel free to spit on the heart, it might bring
you luck.

27
 New Town

Old Town

West End

Old and New Town

Did you know?

Edinburgh’s Old and New Town have been part of the UNESCO World Heritage
Site since 1995. The medieval Old Town stretches from the Castle down to Holy-
rood Palace. It is characterised by various alleys called “closes” and tall buildings
that can be up to 14 storeys high. The Georgian New Town is located north of the
Old Town and was constructed from the late 18th to the end of the 19th century.
It is distinguished by an uncommonly high concentration of neo-classical buil-
dings. The contrast between these two parts of Edinburgh bestows this city with
its unique flair.
28
The Royal Botanic Garden

Text & photos by Anne Becker

The Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh, founded

in 1670, is the second oldest institution of the town
and with seventy beautiful landscaped acres one of
the most respected gardens in the world. Discover
known and unknown plants in a centre for research,
conservation and education. But before you can en-
joy it, please help to protect the garden plant with
a footbath on the entrance. Visitors of all ages can
relax between exotic and tropic rainforests, arid
and mountain lands, Victorian palm houses and the
world famous rock garden. Take a light snack at the
Terrace Café and be surprised by the panoramic view
of the city centre.

29
 Museum & Art
aMUSEuMent par excellence!

Text & photos by Anna Katharina Laschke

Beside shopping malls and other touristy entertain-

ment, Edinburgh`s cultural landscape offers various
opportunities for all art lovers or ‘thirsty-for-know-
ledge-ones’ to spend their leisure: Meet famous Mo-
dern Art at the Dean Gallery, dip into Scottish History
at the National Museum or be consumed by visual
illusions at Camera Obscura - everyone to his own
taste! Select your favourite and get aMUSEuMent
started!
“Your journey of discovery starts here…”
– The National Museum of Scotland–

The Royal Museum, housed in a magnificent Victori-

an building of the 19th century on Chambers Street,
and The Museum of Scotland were merged into The
National Museum of Scotland in 2007. Various arte-
facts of past and present life are exhibited on the six
levels in the modern part of the Museum today: St-
arting on the ground floor with the Beginning - the
first three billion years of Scotland`s history with
origins and evolution of the Scottish landscape, flo-
ra and fauna – further on with the Early People, the
Kingdom of the Scots, Scotland Transformed, Indus-
try and Empire up to Scotland: A Changing Nation
on the sixth floor. The collections tell you the “story
of Scotland, its land, people and culture.”, supplemen-
ted by objects from around the world, encompas-
30
sing archaeology, geology, natural history, science, technology and art, which are
presented in The Royal Museum.
Walking through the exhibition may feel like exploring a maze: Your tour is not
predetermined and the room layout offers various ways to discover the museum.
Every single room holds its own surprises, especially the so-called “Discovery-
Zones” for children as well as enthusiastic grown-ups.
Even if you may not be that interested in museums, it is worth a visit: The correla-
tion of modern architecture and the historical samples of the exhibition creates
a unique atmosphere and is definitely worth seeing! And don`t forget to spend
some time on the wonderful terrace on the seventh floor, where you will have a
splendid view over Edi`s Old Town!

Address: Chambers Street Edinburgh EH1 1JF

Contact: Tel: 0131 225 7534
Website: http://www.nms.ac.uk/default.aspx
Opening times: daily 10am-5pm
Admission: free

additional offers: shop, café, special exhibitions, events and shows, guided and
themed tours, touch or signed tours for visually impaired,
school visits etc.

31
 “Welcome to Huntly House – Edinburgh`s Local History Museum!”
– The Museum of Edinburgh–

If you are interested in learning more about the history and development of the
city of Edinburgh, this museum will be your favourite spot! An amazing ragbag
of Edinburgh silver and glass, Scottish pottery, shop signs and other significant
artefacts, like the original plan of the New Town of Edinburgh designed by ar-
chitect James Craig in 1766, gives an impression of what Edi`s people might have
seen, heard or even smelt. Enjoy the history-charged atmopshere of antiquarian
Huntly House, while you`re wandering through the centuries.
Address: 142 Canongate Edinburgh EH8 8DD
Contact: Tel: 0131 ​529 ​4143
Website: http://www.​cac.​org.​uk
Opening times: Monday-Saturday: 10am-5pm
Sunday: closed
Admission: free

additional offers: shop, pre-booking services for

groups, events and resources for families, Baby changing
facilities, induction loops in exhibition space etc.

“Lose yourself in our eclectic mix of old toys and memories.”

–Museum of Childhood–

Opened in 1955, the Museum of Childhood was the first museum in the world,
which specialised in the history of childhood. Created from a Western European
perspective of childhood, it assembles objects telling of childhood past and pre-
sent, for example toys, dresses and interior decoration.
Ideal for those who appreciate traditional exhibitions in local museums with a
cosy atmosphere.

Address: 42 High Street, Royal Mile Edinburgh

EH1 1TG
Contact: Tel: 0131 529 4142
Website: via www.edinburgh.gov.uk/
Opening times: Monday-Saturday 10am-5pm
Sunday 12am-5pm
Admission: free

additional offers: shop, temporary exhibitions and events,

workshops for children and adults

32
Money, money, money...!
– The Mus£um on the Mound–

Ian Rankin`s favourite new museum, located in the heart of Edinburgh`s centre,
was opened in 2006 and “takes a fresh look at money”: Objects of art and design,
technology, crime, trade and security are assembled to tell all features in the sto-
ry of money.
Address: The Mound EdinburghEH1 1YZ
Contact: Tel: 0131 243 5464
Website: www.museumonthemound.com/
Opening times: Tuesday-Friday: 10am – 5pm
Saturday-Sunday: 1pm – 5pm
Holiday Mondays: 1pm – 5pm
Admission: free

additional offers: Shop, special programmes for school vi-

sits, visit to the archives on demand, Baby changing faci-
lities etc.

HiStory - Step into “The People`s Story”

The People`s Story is housed in the Cannongate Tolbooth, a former tax collecting

house, court and prison, and tells the hiStory of the ordinary people of Edin-
burgh, their lives, their work and their leisure from the late 18th to the end of the
20thcentury. A mixed collage of oral history, written sources, historical artefacts
and replications will convey the “sounds and smells of the past” to the visitors,
getting “a glimpse of the occupations and hardships from yesteryear.”
In short: A little familial museum, recommended to those, who are interested in
nostalgic exhibitions and aren`t afraid of reading!
Address: Canongate Tolbooth Royal Mile
Edinburgh EH8 8BN
Contact: Tel: 0131 529 4057
Website: via www.edinburgh.gov.uk/
Opening times: Monday–Saturday 10am-5pm
Sundays (in August only!) 12am-5pm
Admission: free

additional offers: wheelchair accessible, facilities availab-

le for visually impaired, nappy changing facilities etc.

33
 “Get ready for five floors of hands-on, interactive fun!”
–Camera Obscura and World of Illusions–

Another ‘must’ on any visit to Edinburgh is the fascinating and amusing Camera
Obscura and the World of Illusions – fantastic views over Edinburgh and an “ama-
zing range of optical experiences” included! Definitely a unique opportunity to
see the city and to get to know more about its history!

Address: Castlehill The Royal Mile

Edinburgh EH1 2ND
Contact: Tel: 0131 226 3709

for further information about Admission Charges and

Opening times please check out website: www.camera-
obscura.co.uk/index.asp

34
Life is short, art is long! – smARTful Edinburgh!

Addicted to the Arts? Then don`t miss experiencing Edinburgh`s art scene! Not
only official museums, like the National Galleries of Scotland, but also private gal-
leries and ateliers as in Stockbridge with their temporary exhibitions are a sight
to see! So enjoy drifting through a proper universe of past and present artworks
and learn more about the ARTistic side of Scotland`s capital city!

“There‘s more to Da Vinci than codes and more to Warhol than cans.”

Situated right in the heart of Edinburgh the National Gallery Complex is made
up of three interconnected buildings: The National Gallery of Scotland, which is
“home to a major part of Scotland`s sensational national collection of fine art”,
the Royal Scottish Academy Building (RSA), which is one of Europe`s “premier
venues” for international exhibitions, and the Weston Link, which connects the
two buildings and offers areas for learning, shopping, eating and drinking! So
spend a little while strolling around in these peaceful surroundings and discover
masterpieces from Raphael and Rembrandt to Rubens!

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery, the first pur-

pose-built portrait gallery in the world, is currently
undergoing a major refurbishment and is actually
closed. Following the planned reopening in 2011
more portraits will be shown “within the context of
various historical and thematic exhibitions” and will
reveal the “fascinating stories behind the sitters and
the artists.”  
The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and the
nearby Dean Gallery will be your favourites, if you
cherish modern and contemporary art in all its vari-
ous forms. And even if you`re not that keen on visit-
ing art-exhibitions – enjoy the beautiful surrounding
parkland with the sculpture works by important ar-
tists or rummage in the wonderful galleries shops!

for further information please check out Website:

www.nationalgalleries.org/
www.museumonthemound.com/
www.nms.ac.uk/
www.edinburgh.gov.uk/
35
 Literature & Film
For book worms and film nerds

Where Book Lovers have to go

Text and photos by Melanie Schütte

Why Edinburgh is THE book-city

Edinburgh was the first UNESCO World City of Literature. This is not the only rea-
son why you should have a look at the widespread history of literature in this city
during your stay. There are a lot of opportunities for literary interests. Discover
the places where famous authors found inspiration for their stories on a litera-
ture tour. Learn more about them in the National Library and finally go shopping
in the unique antiquarian bookshops.

The Writers’ Museum

Start your literature adventure with a visit to the Writers’ Museum. You can reach
it easily from Royal Mile going down Lady Stair’s Close. Even the courtyard is just
worth having a look at. This place is called Makars’ Court and also known as the
‘walk of fame of literature’. The inscriptions carved into stones commemorate all
famous Scottish writers from the 14th century to the present.
The museum is quite small but a comfortable place because of its homely ar-
chitecture. Built in 1622, it was home of one of the city’s wealthiest families. The
permanent exhibition is dedicated to three famous Scottish authors: Robert
Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. A comfortable couch on the
second floor invites you to sit down and have a look at the books of the three
authors.

Writers‘ Museum and Makars‘ Court

Lady Stair‘s Close, Edinburgh, EH1 2PA
Monday - Saturday 10am - 5pm Sunday 12 - 5pm (during August only) Admission free
36
Robert Burns – The
Greatest Scot

Let’s start with the most

celebrated Scottish Poet:
Robert Burns. Of course
you don’t have to know
all poems of this world-
wide celebrated author,
but at least the most
popular one: Auld Lang
Syne (engl.: old long
since) is traditionally
chanted at Hogmanay
and became one of the
best known songs in the
English speaking world.
A lot of Burns works are
in Scottish dialect. Regar-
ded as a pioneer of the
Romantic Movement,
Burns was even voted
as the greatest Scot in a
public vote TV-Show in
2009. And because the
Scots love him so much
he has even got his own
holiday called Burns
Night or Burns Supper
celebrated 25th of Janu-
ary. This day is not just
celebrated in Scotland
but also everywhere in
the world where Scottish
migrants live. The supper
includes traditional Hag- ming soup, neeps and
gis, a toast to the author tatties, a main course
accompanied by whisky of Scottish salmon or
and one of his songs or Aberdeen Angus beef
poems. If Haggis turns and rounded off with a
your stomach, try a war- Scotch Trifle.
37
 Scott Monument: 287 steps
to the top

A 61,1 meters tall Victorian Go-

thic spire that reminds you of
a space rocket, dominates the
south side of Princes Street - the
Scott Monument. Completed in
1844 it is dedicated to another
Scottish writer who became
well-known throughout Euro-
pe because of his novels. He
was the first English speaking
author who had success ab-
road. He is also responsible for
two major trends that carry on
this day. Scott invented the mo-
dern historical novel and reha-
bilitated the public perception
of Highland culture after years.
That makes him a lead figure
in the development of Scottish
history.
The monument incorporates
statues of three Scottish Mon-
archs, 16 poets and 64 of Scott’s
characters in its architecture.
From the top of the pinnacle
you have a panorama view over
Edinburgh’s historic Old and
New Towns.

Summer (April - September inclu-

sive): Monday - Sunday 10am-7pm

Winter (October - March inclusi-

ve): Monday - Saturday 9am - 4pm
Sunday 10am - 4pm

Admission: £3

38
Robert Louis Stevenson: How Deacon Brodie,
Mister Jekyll and Dr. Hyde come together

The third of the three authors in the Writers’ Muse-

um is known for his novels like Treasure Island. By the
way the biggest part of the exhibition in the Writers’
Museum is dedicated to him. You can see a cabinet
there made for him by William Brodie. Yet this guy
was not only a cabinet maker and respected mem-
ber of the Town Council. After work he became one
of the most notorious thieves in the city’s history. He
would break into his customers’ houses because he
had copied their front door keys during his working
hours.
This story inspired Stevenson and his friend W.E.
Henly to write four plays but none of them became
as famous as the novel “The strange case of Dr. Je-
kyll and Mr. Hyde” published by Stevenson himself in
1886. The story became such a successful bestseller
that the adjectival expression Jekyll and Hyde is part
of the English language today.

39
 National Library Scottish Storytelling
Centre
Scotland’s biggest library is located just a few steps
from Writers’ Museum. As one of UK’s five copyright This is a special place.
libraries it receives a copy of every text published in People can learn the art
the UK. This leads to wonderful treasures and ma- of telling stories, or as
kes the National Library the world centre for study the Scots say, spin a yarn,
of Scotland and the Scots. If you don’t need to study here and participate in
this place is worth a visit due to the frequent public many year-round events
exhibitions of the library’s collection and the rolling like workshops and
programmes which are mostly free admission. speeches. There is also
an open exhibition on
57 George IV Bridge Scotland’s Stories offe-
Opening Hours red. This free permanent
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 9.30am – 8.30pm exhibition tells the rich
Wednesday 10am – 8.30pm story heritage from folk-
Saturday 9.30am – 1pm
tale and tradition to mo-
dern bestsellers. You can
Exhibition opening hours
Monday – Friday 10am – 8pm also have a break in the
Saturday 10am – 5am café and use the library.
Sunday 2pm – 5pm

43-45 High Street

Monday – Saturday 10am –
6pm

40
Elephant House – Birthplace of Harry Potter

If you like to write maybe there will be inspiration for you just like it has been for
some authors before. The most famous is Joanne K. Rowling, creator of the Harry
Potter novels.
Here is the story: After her daughter’s birth and the separation from her husband,
Rowling lived in Edinburgh without a job and without much money. To save the
heating costs she used to sit in a café. In the Elephant House, she had her favo-
urite spot at a window you can identify from the outside as the one with two
houseplants in it. From here you have a view to the Castle and to George Heriot’s
School. When you see the architecture of this building you can easily recognise
Hogwarts. Rowling sent her own kids to this school after she became a millio-
naire thanks to the success of her novels.

This place is called a gourmet tea &

coffee house and restaurant and has
itself established as one of the best
ones in Edinburgh. Open seven days a
week you can have breakfast, lunch or
dinner here. They serve a large selec-
tion of tea and coffees as well as cakes
and main dishes.
Situated near the Grassmarket oppo-
site the National Museum it is a good
place to either start or end your city
tour.

Elephant House 21 George IV Bridge Mon-

day–Sunday 8am–10 pm
41
 Experience Literature- Edinburgh Book Lo- Literary Pub Crawl
a different Sightseeing vers’ Tour
Tour This tour is also led by
This guided walking Allan Foster and focused
The best way to get a tour starts at the Wri- on the literary pubs. With
feeling for Edinburgh’s ters’ Museum and leads a pint of beer and some
connection with its his- through the history of music you can have an
tory of literature is a Burns, Scott, Steven- unforgettable night.
guided literature tour. son and many more. It
Gaining an overview of is lead by Allan Foster Departs form the Mitre
hundreds of years of his- who wrote two books Pub, 131-133 High Street
tory or learning about about Edinburgh’s liter- May to September – every
details– it’s up to you. ary scene. Enjoy this tour evening except Mondays
7.30pm
with a real expert.
October to April – Saturday
evenings only
Departs outside the Wri- £10 Adult, £9 Student/
ters’ Museum
Senior
May to September – Every
Saturday and Sunday at
2.30pm
(2.30pm Daily during Edin-
burgh Festival Fringe)
October to April – Saturday
at 2.30pm
£10 Adult, £9 Student/
Senior

42
Edinburgh Literary Pub Trainspotting Tour
Tour
Irving Welsh became
The ingredients are sim- famous in 1993 with
ple: pubs, laughs and his novel ‘Trainspotting’
literature. A duo of two about a group of young
actors will lead you heroin addicts. This book
through 300 years of provokes shock and
Edinburgh’s literary his- debate but Welsh be-
tory. came the voice of the
British youth culture
Departs from the Beehive of 1990s. The 1996 film
Inn (in the Grassmarket) version reached a wider
May to September daily audience. For real fans
7.30pm the city even offers a
October, March, April
Trainspotting tour which
– Thursday till Sunday
7.30pm leads through the dis-
November, December, trict of Leith and shows
January, February – Friday the key locations of the
7.30pm film.
£8 Adult, £6 Students
Various tours offered, so
for further information see
www.leithwalks.co.uk/
Rebus Tours
This tour is based on the
character detective ins-
pector John Rebus from
Ian Rankin’s detective
stories. The author is fa-
mous for always weaving
real places and events
into his stories. He also
made his own home –
Arden Street –the home
of his fictional inspector
Rebus. Another common
element is that the Ox-
ford Bar is the local bar
of both – Rebus and Ran-
kin.
The theme of this tour is
politics and corruptions
contrasting the time of
the Act of Union in 1707
with the present day. A
good chance to disco-
ver the alternative Edin-
burgh.
Hidden Edinburgh Tour
Saturday from the Royal
Oak pub in Infirmary Street
at 12pm
Body Politic Tour
every Saturday from the
Royal Oak pub in Infirmary
Street at 3pm £10
www.rebustours.com
43
 Where Book Lovers should go

Text & photos by Kerstin Mahler

Having been on a literary journey through Edinburgh you surely want to get
yourself a book that you could take back home with you.
You, of course, could go to the big Waterstones Stores in Princes Street, but for
real book lovers, the side streets are much more interesting. Here you can find
second hand bookshops. They are not only worth a visit because they often sell
bestsellers cheaply but also because the atmosphere of some of these shops is
quite unique.
One of the most impressive second hand bookshop is the Old Town Bookshop in
Victoria Street near Grassmarket. The narrow room is crammed full of books from
the bottom to the top. It gives you the impression, that someone was set the fol-
lowing task: Fill a small space with as many books as possible. So you stand in the
shop in awe and secretly ask yourself how someone could ever reach those top
shelves. If you have the overview you could find exotic titles like Birds in Britain
Volume 41, Portraits in oil and vinegar or Games and sports in the Army but also
well known books like an Ian Rankin novel.
While being at Grassmarket you should stroll down West Port. Here are several
second hand bookshops next to each other.
If you are a fan of fantasy or science fiction the Transreal Fiction Bookshop in
Cowgatehead is just the right location for you. You’ll find everything from Adams
to Tolkien.
Also highly recommendable is the Broughton Street Bookshop. It is located in
the New Town and provides a wide range of quite cheap bestsellers. Additionally
there is another very interesting life story to discover as Brian Rafferty, who runs
the shop, suffers from the Aspergers Syndrome (a form of autism).
If you just want to get yourself a cheap book though you should pop into one of
the charity shops, like Oxfam or PDSA (Pets in need of Vets). In one of these you
can buy donated books for a small amount of money and do something good at
the same time.

44
Addresses and opening
hours

Armchair Books
72–74 West Port
Edinburgh EH1 2LE
Open: 11.00am to 7.00pm
(approximately).

Broughton Street Book-

shop
44 Broughton St
Edinburgh, EH1 3
Open: Monday closed, Tu-
esday to Friday 11.00am to
7.00pm, Saturday 10.00am
to 6.00pm, Sunday noon to
6.00pm.

The Old Town Bookshop

8 Victoria Street
Edinburgh, EH1 2HG.
Open: 10.30am to 5.30pm
Monday to Saturday.

Transreal Fiction Bookshop

7 Cowgatehead
Edinburgh EH1 1JY
Open: Monday to Friday
11.00am to 6.00pm, Satur-
day 10.00am to 6.00pm.

Waterstones
13-14 Princes Street
Edinburgh EH2 2AN
Open: Monday to Friday
9.00am to 8.00pm Satur-
day 9.00am to 7.00pm Sun-
day 10.00am to 6.00pm.

45
 The Book Festival

Text by Kerstin Mahler

It seems that there could not be a better treat for a book lover then the Book
Festival in August. There are author events, debates, workshops and most impor-
tantly, of course, loads of books. Many Very Important People have visited the fes-
tival in the past years. National and international authors like Ian Rankin, J.K. Row-
ling, Henning Mankell and Cornelia Funke are only a few names that could be
dropped related to the festival. It takes place in Charlotte Square Garden which
is not usually open to the public. You can experience the magical atmosphere of
the Festival in Charlotte Square Garden by sitting on the lawn with a book you
just bought in one of the two independent bookshops, whilst having a snack
and listening to live music.

46
Aaaaaaaaaaaand action!

Following the footsteps of Ewan McGregor and

Tom Hanks

Text and photos by Friederike Ebel

Imagine you are on a shopping tour on Princes Street,

looking in the windows, chatting with your girls, ab-
solutely amazed by the city. Suddenly you hear some
hectical steps behind you, and just as you’re turning
around, three thin, pale boys nearly bring you to fall
by running down the street. As you follow them with
your eyes, you think: “Was that really Ewan McGre-
gor?”
With a bit of imagination or the help of whisky and
beer, you could really feel like being a part of Danny
Boyle’s “Trainspotting”, which was shot in Edinburgh
and Glasgow in 1996. It deals with heroin abuse and
the problems of young people who grew up in Leith,
an economically depressed area of Edinburgh in the
80s.
You may recognise some houses or crossroads while
walking down Edinburgh’s most famous shopping
paradise, Princes Street, but there are a lot more
places which are worth a visit for a Trainspotting fan.
Just stroll down Leith Walk, the main street of Leith.
Irvine Welsh, the author of the novel, was born in this
quarter of the city, which is known for its troubled
past, drug addicts, unemployment and a high crime
rate. Today Leith is about to become the new fashio-
nable quarter of Edinburgh, but you can still feel the
special atmosphere, which made the book and mo-
vie so authentic. At the end of Leith Walk you’ll arrive
at “The Foot of the Walk”, a pub where some drinking
scenes with Ewan McGregor were filmed. Feel free
to sit down, grab yourself a beer and clink glasses to
Mark, Spud, Sick Boy, Tommy and Begbie. But be care-
ful not to copy the movie figures too much, the bar-
man might get angry when you start throwing beer
glasses like Begbie did in the movie.
47
 In addition, some parts were filmed on the train
tracks between Edinburgh and Glasgow, so if you’re
on a one day visit to Glasgow, don’t miss thinking of
Mark and Sick Boy lying in the grass, watching trains
go by and talking about Sean Connery films.
As a real Trainspotting addict, you can join the
Trainspotting tour, which is offered all year around.
For further information check out the programme of
the Trainspotting tours on www.leithwalks.co.uk or
call 0131 555 2500.
Prices: about £4, all tours take around 2 hours
mail@leithwalks.co.uk

If you’re not that interested in drugs, alcohol, sex and

crime, but in adventure and tension, there is an old,
mystical place near Edinburgh, which played an im-
portant role in the 2005 blockbuster “The Da Vinci
Code”. Do you remember Tom Hanks and Audrey Ta-
tou alias Professor Langdon and Sophie Neveu ente-
ring a church, placed in romantic surroundings, just
to find out the secret of the Holy Grail? This scene,
full of magic, was filmed in the 15th century Rosslyn
Chapel, which is not far away from the capital. You
can reach the chapel by bus. It is seated near the
little village of Rosslyn and is only about 30 minu-
tes away from the city centre. There may be pictu-
res of the movie popping into your head when you
enter the romantic church, and while you’re walking
around the nave you’ll probably empathise with the
excitement Robert and Sophie felt by discovering
who Sophie’s ancestor was. When you are climbing
down the stairs to the chamber where Langdon and
Sophie were expecting the Holy Grail to be arranged
in, you will feel a prickle in your belly and your feet
may tremble.
So enjoy your visit and keep in mind to walk the little
path down to the Rosslyn Castle, an old hulk of ma-
sonry next to the church. It is the perfect backdrop
to take some nice pictures and to enjoy the beautiful
48
landscape. So sit down on a weather-beaten castle
stone, relax and just soak up the magic of Rosslyn
chapel. It will leave a strong mark in your memories.

Admission Price
Adults £7.50 Concessions £6.00
Under 16s (with their family) Free
Under 16s in a school group £4.00

Opening hours:
Mon-Sat: 9.30 – 17.00
Sun: 12.00 – 16.45

49
 A Sean Connery view on Edinburgh

An elegant man is leaning against the bar. His eyes

are brown, his hair black. The suit he wears is of the
best material. All of the women in the room glance
him with interest. One of them will spend the night
with the stranger. The man smiles, lifts his eyebrow
and then, very slowly, turns to the barman: “I have it
shaken, and not stirred! “

Everybody knows that famous sentence from James

Bond, who was first played by Sean Connery in 1962.
After his James Bond period, Sean Connery develo-
ped into an actor with a strong character and ap-
peared in a lot of famous movies such as “The Name
of the Rose”,“The Hunt for Red October” and “Finding
Forrester”.
But this man, known for being someone men want
to be and women want to be with, has not always
been that high-flying. He was born in the Edinburgh
of the 1930s, not in one of the nice quarters but in
Fountainbridge. The factories made the area dusty
and dirty.
The Connerys weren’t very rich and lived in an old
tenement at 176 Fountainbridge with no hot water
and no bathroom.
At age 13, the young Connery left school to earn
some money for his family by delivering milk around
the city.
You will have a lot of problems seeking the Connery’s
former home today. It was knocked down in the
1960s to make way for a new bottling plant. Today
Fountainbridge is unrecognisable from the area that
Connery grew up in. You’ll need a lot of imagination
to fancy the streets, shops and houses of his child-
hood. There is also McEwans brewery, where Sean
Connery’s father worked.
The world renown Edinburgh College of Art sits at
Lauriston Place. In his young years the actor was also
a bodybuilder and because of his athletic physique
and of course good looks, Connery earned some ex-
50
tra money by posing nude for art students. Some naked pictures still survive of
the man voted as the Sexiest Man Alive in 1989 and the Sexiest Man of the Cen-
tury in 1999.
Take the time to visit the King’s Theatre at Leven Street. It is one of the most im-
portant and historical theatres of Scotland and the starting point of Connery‘s
career as an actor. In addition to his model jobs and the bodybuilding, he picked
up some extra money by helping out backstage at the King’s. This is where he got
interested in acting.
Even in the evening Connery’s footsteps echo around Edinburgh. When the ac-
tor, who is now living in the Caribbean, comes to visit his city he likes to have
dinner at the Italian restaurant “Ciao Italia”, which is close to the Royal Mile at 64
Southbridge. If you are really lucky, the person at the table next to you may be
Connery himself. Ask him questions about Scotland. He is very passionate about
Scottish politics and its history.
So enjoy your trip to Connery‘s hometown. Maybe you can feel a bit of the passi-
on he feels for his city yourself.

Did you know…

There’s a small tho-
roughfare that is named
after Sean Connery? It
runs past the site of the
tenement at 176 Foun-
tainbridge where Sean
Connery was born.
“When I took a taxi du-
ring a recent Edinburgh
Film Festival, the cabbie
was amazed that I could
put a name to every
street we passed.
‘How come?’ he asked.
‘As a boy I used to deliver
a milk round here,’ I said.
‘So what do you do
know?’
That was rather harder to
answer.”
Sean Connery, in: Being
a Scot
51
 Shopping & Fashion
Shop till you drop

Shopping that suits everyone!

Text & photos by Desi Ilker

The second most visited tourist destination in the United Kingdom, Edinburgh
offers a shopping experience like no other. It’s a place with a variety of shops and
malls and whatever you’re looking for, the city has something to suit. Edinburgh’s
shops are not only best known for traditional Scottish souvenirs, but also for an
increasing number of designer stores and funky boutiques providing a wide ran-
ge of opportunities. You’ll be spoilt for choice.

The medieval buildings which elegantly dominate the city are already asto-
nishing eye catchers. What is also recognizable about Edinburgh are its inha-
bitants wearing stylish clothes with screaming colours. Let’s have a look which

52
shopping areas are the most worth seeing and which stores bear a hand to fill
Scottish wardrobe:
The main shopping quarter is Princes Street. It’s a shopper’s paradise with a diffe-
rence. It combines shopping and sightseeing at the same time. On the north side
you’ll find the most favourite department stores, such as Zara, Gap, H&M, Top-
shop, Jenners and many others, opposite you’ll see the spectacular Edinburgh
Castle. A block away from Princes Street you’ll find George Street. Flooded with
boutiques, bars and restaurants, it’s the city’s most stylish street. St James Shop-
ping Centre is the place extending the fabulous range of stores on Princes Street.
It is home to stores like Next, Republic, River Island and John Lewis.
The best place for Scottish souvenirs is the Grassmarket. Popular for its deep his-
torical background, it offers a large variety of interesting things to see and do.
Also worth visiting is the Royal Mile, where you can’t avoid shop windows de-
corated with scary-looking dolls wearing traditional tartan and kilt outfits. Here
you’ll find finest cashmere and first-class tartan as well.
Amongst all this tourist kitsch, the beautiful St. Andrews Square offers much for
all those who are looking out for chic clothes, designer stores and exclusive bou-
tiques. Like the multi-coloured tartan patterns found in the boutiques and High
Street stores, Edinburgh mixes different kinds of shopping: From tourist kilts to
high class design.

53
 Shopping off the beaten track

Text & photos by Stephanie Haupt

Keep your eyes open all you bargain hunters and fa-
shionistas out there

Powerful men in kneelength-skirts in tartan patterns

- better known as kilts – that´s what you may have in
mind when you are think about Edinburgh´s fashion
scene.

Of course there are a lot of traditional Scottish fa-

shion stores all around the city as mentioned before.
So don´t be surprised if you see hairy legs just co-
vered by ancient skirts from the 16th century, even if
it´s f-f-freezing cold outside.
But that´s not the only thing the fashion world of
Scotland´s capital has on offer for all you shopaho-
lics. Here you can also find real fashion treasures and
the hottest fanciest clothes besides the bog-stan-
dard shops you can find in every city. When strolling
around your eyes will glaze over at the kinds of fa-
shion you can choose from .

So if you are interested in an individual and unique

fashion experience you will love the second-hand
shops all around Edinburgh. One of the best stores
for cool vintage and retro clothing is Armstrongs (83
The Grassmarket & 64-66 Clerk Street), stocked from
floor to ceiling with great stuff. There you can find
beautiful dresses, jackets and tops as well as great
accessories for a costume party. Belts, bags, hats and,
of course, exatraordinary shoes from all periods of
time will complete your look. And the best part is
they are affordable, even on a small budget.

If you not only want to save money but also want

to support aid organisations you can have a look in
one of the many charity shops especially in Nicolson
Street, Clerk Street and Stockbridge. There you can
54
find a huge variety of modern and vintage stuff. Ex-
actly the right spots to find desirable fashion.

If you’re more interested in new, yet special clothes –

just a bit different – try a visit to Victoria Street with
its funky and pretty cool stores like SWISH (22 Victo-
ria Street) – easily found because of its purple façade.
There you can snatch up playful dresses, rocking t-
shirts and huge variations of bags.

Great places to find young and modern clothing are

the various shops in Cockburn Street. You definitely
should go to Pie in the sky where you will find a huge
range of unique dresses, cool shirts and pretty stylish
jewellery.

55
 For more – just take a look at some of Edinburgh´s fashion hotspots
yourself. It´s definitely worth it!

Edinburgh´s Fashion Hotspots off the beaten track:

Accessories

Fabhatrix
(13 Cowgatehead)
If you are a hat-lover, this shop will be the perfect place to go. Here you can get
hats in every colour, size and style with an innovative and individual design.

Herman Brown
(151 West Port)
This shop offers great vintage accessories like sunglasses, sweet jewellery and of
course gorgeous shoes. And for all of you who can´t get enough they also have a
small range of 1950s-1980s clothes.

Individual Clothing

Electric Cabaret
(7 Forrest Road)
This shop is the very best place to get punky, emo, scenster and gothy clothing
at good prices.

Joey D!
(54 Broughton Street)
Interesting and extraordinary fashion recycled from vintage clothes and unusual
materials made by designers.

Cookie
(29 Cockburn Street)
Unique and different are the clothes you can get here. Edgy t-shirts, casual bags
and beautiful dresses a little higher up price range but still affordable.

Godiva
(9 West Port, Edinburgh)
Very individual and cool clothing created by local design talents, that´s what you
can get at this small boutique.
56
Totty rocks
(40 Victoria Street)
Fancy underwear with playful quillings, sweet dres-
ses and jewellery, cool knee socks and tights, which
will awaken childhood memories in you.

Ragamuffin
(278 Canongate)
For every lover of knitwear and woollen clothes you
should have a look at this shop. It not only offers
hard-to-find designer clothes from Scotland and the
rest of Europe but also a more affordable in-house
label.

Charity and second-hand shops

The Rusty Zip

(14 Teviot Place)
This Rusty Zip is the little sister shop of Armstrongs
where you can get funky and fabulous vintage
clothing for almost everyone.

Barnardos Vintage
(116 West Bow)
This boutique offers a wide range of retro and desig-
ner fashion and accessories from different eras.

British Heart Foundation

(102 Nicolson Street)
Oxfam
(116 Nicolson Street)

Marie Curie Cancer Care

(11 St Patrick´s Square)

Did you know…

…that Edinburgh offers one of Europe´s most successful student-run charity fa-
shion shows called ECFS every year? For more information and dates have a look
on www.edinburghcharityfashionshow.com
57
 Shops you shouldn´t miss!

Ready for an unforgettable sugar rush?

Just visit the I <3 CANDY store

Who can resist delicious cupcakes in glowing pink

or tasty colourful bonbons? You can´t?! Then you are
exactly right at the I <3 CANDY shop near Princes
Street.
While visiting the cute store in 38 Hanover Street you
will immediately feel like being in the land of plen-
ty with rivers of creamy chocolate, trees made out
of delicious fudge and waterfalls made out of slus-
hee…

The distinguished range of sweets is credited to the

shop owner who tries her best to find sweets which
are special and hard to get. Thus the store is cram-
med full of as many different eye-popping kinds of
goodies. For example traditional Scottish treats like
lemon macaroons and vanilla fudge, retro sweets
such as flying saucers as well as yummy chocolate
and delectable handmade cupcakes. All can be ac-
companied by a nice pot of tea or coffee.
But the special thing about the shop is not only the
wide range of sweety sweets but also its cosy atmos-
phere. Light pink wallpaper, affectionately selected
souvenirs accompanied by retro music of the glori-
ous 50´s create a nostalgic candy paradise at its best.
That´s why you not only see sparkling eyes of child-
ren in the shop but also people of all ages pouring in
to rediscover lost goodies from their younger days.
This shop is definitely a childhood dream come true,
so dive into a wonderful world of candy and memo-
ries by visting the I <3 CANDY store.

And even if you can´t make it to the shop by yourself,

don´t worry! You can order the sweeties via internet
right to your home! So have a look on their website:
www.ilovecandystore.com
58
Christmas the whole year round?

Just visit Ye old christmas shoppe in Edinburgh

Santa Claus, Christmas baubles, fairy lights and small glistening angels are things
you can actually only buy or see in the pre-Christmas period. In Edinburgh that’s
different!
In the the city you will find a small shop stuffed full of everything you need for a
festive and wonderful Christmas time. And the best part is that the shop is open
365 days a year, everything is duty-free and most of the products are local and
handcrafted.
And even if you are visiting the shop in summer you´ll immediately see yourself
sitting under the Christmas tree with a whole lot of presents. The peaceful and
cosy atmosphere will surely overwhelm you.
So if you can´t wait to get cool christmas souvenirs you are just right at Ye old
christmas shoppe which you will find at 145 Canongate.

59
 Entertainment
Let me entertain you!

The Fringe effect

Text & photos by Ruth Amelung and

Anna Katharina Laschke

The streets are roaring and every last alley, nook and
cranny are crammed with masses of exhilarated peo-
ple. A nice mid- summer breeze carries the sound of
laughter, clapping hands and jubilant cheers to every
corner of the capital. And with that the festival sum-
mer has officially begun. Every year people from all
over the globe flock to Edinburgh to visit any of the
12 cultural spectacles the European festival hotspot
has to offer.

60
So if you already happen to have plans, especially for
the weeks of August, consider rescheduling because
all eyes will be on this city that knows like no other
how to throw a festival.
The Edinburgh International Festival lures millions of
inspired visitors to its shows every year. Three weeks
from around mid- August, it is host to the ‘who-is-
who’ of international theatre, opera, music, drama
and dance promising world class performances and
outstanding exhibitions.
The Fringe, the world’s biggest arts festival, holds the
pole position in the Festival hit list. Originally it was
established as a protest by eight theatre groups who
were not invited to the inauguration of the Edin-
burgh International Festival; yet felt that they should
have the right to perform. The idea of the Fringe was
born and from 1947 alternative performers could
participate and present anything they wanted - as
long as they found a venue. Today around 270 ve-
nues are nearly bursting and over 30.000 individual
performances turn the city into a colossal stage.
Also part of the Edinburgh festival is the Royal Edin-
burgh Military Tattoo. It is the biggest music festival
throughout Scotland and takes place on the Esplana-
de, right in front of the Edinburgh Castle. The name
Tattoo is said to be derived from the Dutch language
meaning “last orders”. Military bands, British armed
forces and the Commonwealth are still the center of
the musical attention and perform an entertaining
mix of parades and military ceremonies.
The complete festival program will be published
three months in advance, tickets and reservations
are available online.
61
 Did you know, there are more

Science Festival 2 weeks around april -inventions

and innovations in science and technology

Bank of Scotland Imaginate festival 6 days in May

-theatre for youngsters

Edinburgh International Film Festival 10 days in June

-innovative and exciting cinema

Jazz and Blues Festival 1 week beginning of august

music -from old and new artists

Edinburgh Art Festival one week beginning of Sep-

tember -modern and contemporary art

Edinburgh Mela Festival beginning of August - peo-

ple, places, identities reflecting the world

The Fringe

Edinburgh Military Tattoo

Edinburgh International Festival

International Book Festival 2 weeks in August -lar-

gest in the world

International Storytelling Festival 10 days in October

( traditional and contemporary storytelling)

Edinburgh Hogmanay (New Years) 5 days of celeb-

ration

For further information please check out

http://www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk/festivals
http://www.edfringe.com/
http://www.eif.co.uk/

62
Celebrating the New Year at Edinburgh’s Hogmanay

Text by Fred Gratzer

Come to Edinburgh to take part in one of the most important and traditional
festive days in Scotland.

To celebrate New Year’s Eve‘ at Edinburgh’s famous Hogmany, which is Europe’s

biggest winter festival, is really exciting. During the four day celebration, which
lasts from 29 December to 1 January, you and further more than 200.000 enthu-
siastic revelers have the opportunity to enjoy over 20 events around the city cen-
ter. Visitors are getting spoilt by live music stages in Princes Street, giant screens
and laser and light shows and finally you will certainly be impressed by the spec-
tacular midnight fireworks which illuminate the sky.

The celebrations begin with the spectacular Torchlight Procession which starts
at 6.30pm on 29 December on Parliament Square leading along Princess Street
and Waterloo Place to end up at Calton Hill. Hundreds of torch carriers will be
accompanied by the pipes and drums in both traditional and contemporary out-
fits. By visiting the festivities of the Night Afore International on 30 December,
you will get a foretaste for the next night’s Hogmanay celebrations. With enjoy-
ing the carnival of street theatre, Scottish dancing, music, bagpipes and ceilidhs
you will be in high spirits for the following day.

The highlight of Edinburgh’s Hogmanay celebrations on 31 December is the

street party, which claims to be the biggest New Year celebration in the world.
Music and dancing takes place along the entire length of Princess Street and at
Waverley Bridge. The concert in the Princes Street Gardens, where famous artists
perform after 9 o’clock, is the music centerpiece of Edinburgh’s Hogmanay and
is really worth to be visited. If you aren’t tired after celebrating the New Year in
the “Home of Hogmanay”, you can follow the tradition to enjoy the sunrise from
Arthur’s Seat. Joining Scotland’s capital on New Year’s Eve’ will be certainly an
unforgettable experience.

Facts: more information at www.edinburghshogmanay.com Tel.: +44 (0) 131 5293914

The main party area is ticketed after 8pm on 31 December. Advice: book in advance!

63
 Sports in Scotland

Text by Fred Gratzer

For dedicated sport fans Scotland has much going for it

Sport plays an important role in the Scottish culture. Because of the alternating
climate, all-weather sports like football, rugby union and golf have the most im-
portant local value. You might already know that Scotland has its own unique
sporting competitions and governing bodies, such as the Scottish Football
League, the Scottish Rugby Union or Cricket Scotland. Even for international
competitions like the Football World Cup Scotland delegates its own represen-
tatives.

Football (Soccer) is the national sport number one in Scotland: It has a very long
tradition and a huge number of spectators and participants. The first ever in-
ternational match was between Scotland and England in 1870. In the Scottish
Premier League (www.scotsprem.com) Glasgow Celtic and the Glasgow Ran-
gers dominate the competition, but there are also two teams representing Edin-
burgh: Hearts F.C and Hibernian F.C. Scottish Premier League matches take place
on weekends an occasionally on week nights during the season (August to May).
The derbies are especially worth seeing and always promise suspense and great
amusement for fans and audience. Even if the game turns boring, watching the
die-hard supporters in full flow is entertaining enough.

One of the most emotive events in Edinburgh is the Six Nations Rugby Union
Championship. It runs annually from February to March. All of the Scottish rugby
fans look forward to the clash against England, called the Calcutta Cup, which
has been contested since 1871. During the rugby games at Murrayfield Stadium,
the whole city of Edinburgh is invaded by fans from all around Scotland who
cheer on the Scottish national team.
If you get the chance to attend a Rugby Union competition or a football match
in Edinburgh, you will be provided with suspense, excitement and tradition. But
even a visit to one of Edinburgh’s countless pubs, which broadcast the competi-
tions, gives you the feeling of the great atmosphere.

Finally Scotland is the “Home of Golf”, and is famous for its more than 550 golf
courses. Edinburgh is home to one of the oldest Leith Links, where the rules of
the game were formulated in 1744. Further popular sports in Scotland are Cri-
cket, Curling and Shinty, a traditional game of the Scottish Highlands.

64
Pubs showing sports: Murrayfield Hotel Edinburgh
18 Corstorphine Road
The Cambridge Bar EH12 6HN Edinburgh
20 Young Street Tel: +44 ( 0) 131 337 1844
EH2 4JB Edinburgh
Tel: +44 (0) 131 226 2120,
info@cambridgebar.co.uk

Bow Bar
80 West Bow
EH1 2HH, Edinburgh, Midlothian.
Tel: +44 (0) 131 226 7667.

Rules of Rugby: www.learnrugbylaws.com

65
 One night in Edinburgh…you’re in for a real treat!

Text & photos by Ruth Almelung

Daytime Edinburgh has already captured you with countless breathtaking sights,
scary myths and funny stories as well as a good and affordable coffee in one of
the cosy corner cafés. Let’s go out and find the real fun in the capital while ex-
ploring Edi’s diverse nightlife scene. The days when you had to go all the way to
Glasgow to chase the fun are long gone. Edinburgh’s nightlife is pulsating and
very well set to cater for all tastes.
Ladies, unpack your heels, Gents, have a drink and then go and check out:

“Espionage”

Edi’s biggest nightclub

Five levels invite you to

copious dance sessions
in spacious underground
vaults and chill-out time
in several bars. Occasio-
nally it hosts live- perfor-
mances. House, Hip Hop,
RnB, Charts and whate-
ver the dj’s feel like will
make you want to move
your feet!

Address: 4 India Buildings,

Victoria Street;
admission free; open Mo-
Sun, 10.30 pm- 3am
Tel: (+44) 131 477 7007
Visit: www.espionage007.
co.uk for recent updates

66
If you’re up for a retro-
chic night out, you’ll feel
awfully comfortable at:
“Cabaret Voltaire”
translating music into
party
The exclusive, twin-roo-
med venue witnesses
different exciting events
from Killer-Kitsch to Edi’s
only remaining regular
house night “Ultrag-
roove”. It also features up
to 30 concerts a month
with different artists
who choose the cosy yet
exclusive atmosphere
for a really extraordinary
up-close and personal
experience.
Address: 36-38 Blair Street;
admission free; open Mo-
Sun, 11 pm- 3 am
Tel: (+44) 131 220 6176
Please check out: www.
thecabaretvoltaire.com for
special events
Indie Kids should not
miss “Citrus Club”, grand
nights in jeans and shirt
Being on the scene for
years, Citrus has estab-
lished a steady clientele
ranging from students
to older folks who ap-
preciate a casual night
out. Featuring gigs from
eclectic artists to reggae
and ska as well as punk
and rock bands, the al-
ternative soul will feel
at home while relishing
on cheap drinks and a
few hours off the main-
stream.
Address: 40-42 Grindlay
Street; admission free befo-
re 11 pm-11.30 pm., depen-
ding on event, after that
prices may vary between £
6-10; open Mo-Sun, around
10.30 pm.- 3 am., depen-
ding on event
Tel: (+44) 131 622 7086
See www.Citrusclub.co.uk
for more
“Opal Lounge”, luxuri-
ous, cutting-edge club
with that bit extra
Attracting a more pre-
tentious audience, well-
known local djs compose
an exquisite atmosphere
with the latest tunes of
dance, club favourites,
soul, RnB, funk and oldies
while the bar offers the
best drops of Champag-
ne and Whisky.
Address: 51 George Street;
open Mo-Sun, around 10.30
pm- 3 am.; admission varies
from £ 2- 8, depending on
event; guest list and table
reservations possible
Tel: (+44)131 226 2275
Don’t miss the latest news
on: www.opallounge.co.uk
67
 Looking for some fun Always a good address More Fun:
“Paris Hilton Style”? Get to pop in unannounced
yourself on the guest list would be : The Hive 
of : “The City Nightclub” 15–17 Niddry Street,
“Lulu Nightclub”, Edi’s that is also popular du-
most elegant late-night ring the week Electric Circus
venue As they say, “the stylish 36–39 Market Street,
Gorgeously decorated in state of the art party
Swarowski’s finest, you’ll venue” attracts hip stu- Opium
find sophisticated and dents and trendy pro- 71 Cowgate,
classy young professio- fessionals to themed
nals who see and want nights and occasional The Liquid Room
to be seen. promo events. Sublime 9c Victoria Street,
dj’s get the party started
on more than one huge Base
Address: 125 George Street; dance floor. 69 Cowgate,
open Mo-Sun; admission
free before 10pm, otherwi- Lava and Ignite
se between £5-10 Address: 1a Market Street; 3 West Tollcross,
Tel: (+44) 131 225 5005 open Mo-Sun 11pm-3am
Events, bookings and info ; admission between £4-7
on: www.luluedinburgh. Po Na Na
depending on event 43b Frederick Street,
co.uk Tel: (+44) 131 226 9560
To keep you updated: www.
cityedinburgh.co.uk

PS: Some Clubs may re-

quire smart dress; drin-
king age is 18; prices vary
between £2-4 a pint (de-
pending on admission)
and there is NO smoking
in public areas throug-
hout Scotland!

Check out http://www.edinburgh-pubs.co.uk/clubs.html or The Skinny (co.uk),

a free monthly magazine naming music, films, clubs, theatre, digital, reading, co-
medy, art, fashion and listings from A-Z for more detailed information.
68
Give it up for our next Artist

Text by Ruth Amelung

With a large student population, the city centre of Edinburgh is packed with cool
places for a wild night out. Don’t make the mistake and just check out the usual
crime scenes of the diverse nightlife but know that Edinburgh has another enti-
rely different but just as exciting culture underground.
Find one of those dingy-looking pubs or a traditional downstairs den, which are
of course spread all over downtown and encounter some of the best live-music
there is. It doesn’t matter if you enjoy rock, folk, blues, jazz, country or RnB, almost
every night of the week a venue features some kind of live music.

One of the most popular live music bars is the “Liquid Room”. The underground
vault beneath Victoria Street is also known as one of the most popular night
clubs in the city and offers brilliant live gigs and concerts on some nights of the
week.
Address: 9c Victoria Street
Tel: (+44) 131 225 2564

For those of you who prefer the up- beat jazzy rhythm of a sax, piano and drums
“Eighty Queen Street” is the right address. Looking like a club but hosting live-
jazz three times a week, open-mic on Wednesdays and guest bands on Saturdays
it very much acts like a proper live-music venue.
Address: 80 Queenstreet and 8 Morrison Street
Tel: (+44) 131 226 5097

Looking for something you have not heard before? Check out “Bannermanns”
where new and mostly unheard-of bands often celebrate their debut.
Address: 212 Cowgate
Tel: (+44) 131 556 3254

Also you shouldn’t miss a Thursday night at the “Antiquary”, one of these rather
dusky, downstairs pubs that throw the utmost lively open-folk sessions.
Address: 72-78 St. Stephen Street
Tel: (+44) 131 225 2858

Also a very popular thing to do around here is open-mic, giving everyone a shot
at showing what they’ve got- sound-wise. It is always fun and very rewarding,
and despite the possible shyness at first, your friends will have trouble getting
you off the stage afterwards.

69
 The spooky side of Edinburgh

Text & photos by Pamela Kölbl and Janine Glozat

The vaults and Mary Kings Close

A town under the town – could this be true? In fact

there is one in Edinburgh directly beside the Royal
Mile. The vaults are situated in tunnels built in the
17th century underneath the South Bridge which
is in the city centre. In the early days of the bridge
many businesses grew in these underground spaces.
After a while the bridge began to leak and the busi-
nesses were forced to move out. The function of the
vaults changed and the damp vaults started to be-
come home to the extremely poor, especially the
Irish immigrants. A place where real people lived,
worked and died. But a lack of light, heat, water and
air made this area uninhabitable. Today the very dark
and still damp vaults are spaces for the public to ex-
plore and they haven’t lost their original atmosphere.
Some people say with its spooky past it is the most
haunted place in Britain. So, are you brave enough to
discover what exists down there?

For example at Mary Kings Close or with one of the

several tours offered on the Royal Mile:

2 Warristons Close
EH1 1PG Edinburgh
Phone 0845 070 6244
www.realmarykingsclose.com
info@realmarykingsclose.com

70
The Grassmarket

With its pubs, second

hand shops and restau-
rants this place is cur-
rently a busy student
area. You can enjoy the
medieval atmosphere
with a brilliant view of
the castle while having
a pint. But what did this
market use to be? In the
late 17th Century the
Grassmarket was used
to conduct public han-
gings. In the middle of
the market you can still
find a circle where the
executions took place. It
is also known for its mur-
derers Burke and Hare
who killed numerous
people, mainly unk-
nown Irish immigrants
and sold the bodies to
medical schools to pro-
vide material for dissec-
tion. Another place with
a dark and bloody past
where nobody exactly
knows what else happe-
ned behind the curtains.
So, let your imagination
run wild and get into a
medieval mood.

71
 Mackenzie Poltergeist

„Bluidy Mackingie, come

oot if ye daur, lift the
sneck and draw the bar!“
the kids used to sing
while they played on the
street close to Grayfriars
Kirkyard. There George
Mackenzie, a successful
and tough advocate in
the 17th century, was
buried after his death
in 1691. But not only his
dead body was laid to
rest in this cold ground
- also a lot of his victims.
Bloody Mackenzie was
known for his strict ver-
dicts. Once he killed 100
men on one single day
and a lot of people died
during their jail term
because of the horrible
conditions of detention
he had ordered. Most of
them were also buried
in Grayfriars Kirkyard.
And so the dead soul of
Mackenzie cannot find
peace in this place. It sur-
vives as the well known
Poltergeist and scares all
people away who want
to disturb or chase him.
So come and visit Ma-
ckenzie at his dark and
frosty grave on Candle-
maker Row.

72
 Tours back in time

The best way to feel

the spirit of these cree-
py places is to join one
of the numerous tours
around the city. It does
not really matter which
tour you choose - ghosts,
underground, terror, wit-
ches - every tour will let
you go back in the time
when 25,000 people
had to live between Ho-
lyrood Palace and the
Castle and the old town
of Edi was more a slum
than a quarter. But most
of them are not for the
faint-hearted. Do not be
afraid of not finding an
operator. There are a lot
of tour vendors on the
Royal Mile. You cannot
miss them because they
will not miss you.

http://www.mercattours.com/ghost-tours.asp

http://www.realmarykingsclose.com/

http://www.auldreekietours.com/

http://www.edinburgh-royalmile.com/famous-scots/burke-and-hare.html

http://farm.imdb.com/title/tt0066871/

73
 Everybody dance now!

Text by Sylvia Kasmann

Fast rhythms, exuberant dancing,

sweaty faces, and a lot of fun. This is no
description of some fancy night club,
but of an important part of Scottish
culture: ceilidh.
Ceilidh is a traditional Gaelic dance
that is accompanied by Scottish live
music. So if you join a ceilidh night, you
will get a real taste of Scottish culture.
Now you might think of elderly peo-
ple dressed in kilts who are waltzing
to some bagpipes tunes. But you are
severely mistaken. Mainly young peo-
ple visit these ceilidh nights that con-
sist of couple and group dances. They
may start slowly but do not be fooled
by this. After a while the speed acce-
lerates and you might have problems
keeping up. But don’t worry, there are
always nice Scots around who will help
you. Ceilidh is the perfect opportunity
to get into contact with some locals in
Edinburgh as you will have to switch
partners repeatedly in the course of
the night. Conversations will develop
easily and maybe you can get some
insider tips concerning Edi and its sur-
roundings.
If you go to a ceilidh night, you will
experience a fantastic atmosphere of
Scottish music and playful dancing.
At some point it will become impossi-
ble for you to stop laughing because
you are either stumbling over your
own feet or just enjoying yourself
very much. So if you would appreciate
some change to the usual night clubs,
74
The Gift of the Scottish Pub

Text by Anne Becker and Sharne Plummer

The way I see it, everyone has a gift. I discovered my

gift fairly late in life, well, perhaps not late but defini-
tely not until I was of legal age.

I like to think of myself as something of a connois-

seur of alcohol and pubs. If I’m honest Scotland’s
pubs are topping my list for atmosphere, character
and personality.

I’m fairly confident I’m not alone when I say that ha-
ving the infamous Whisky or a pint in a Scottish bar
is quite high up on the “must do” list of anyone tra-
velling to Scotland. It’s hard to avoid the plethora of
warm, inviting pubs with friendly faces inside.

Whether it be for a quiet beverage with friends or an

all night bender Edinburgh will be able to cater for
you.

Edinburgh is full of traditional pubs like Port of Leith,

Canny Man’s and Café Royal where you can talk to lo-
75
 cals in a friendly atmosphere with original Victorian
style interiors. Edinburgh locals use their neighbour-
hood bars as a social centre to meet friends, watch
sports, listen to live music or just relax with a wine or
one of the long beer brewing heritage originals.

However, if you are in the mood for a party don’t miss

Bramble or Amicus Apple or one of the many other
cool, stylish bars with occupants dressed to impress.
These bars come fully equipped with DJs, a young
trendy crowd and state of the art cocktails. All over
the new town, particularly on George Street, you will
find many of the city’s most fashionable cocktail bars.

As Edinburgh is a city with more than 700 pubs and

has more bars per square mile than any other UK city
it can be a bit tricky to know where to start. If you are
travelling alone or need a little guidance, there are a
multitude of pub crawl tours only too happy to assist.
These tours vary in price and cater for a variety of age
groups. The most common location to pick up one of
these tours is the Royal Mile. In summary, Edinburgh
is certainly a drinking town par excellence.

I feel I need to mention the two words most com-

monly uttered the morning after a really good night
– hangover cure – the Scots believe Irn Bru and a fry
up can relieve the symptoms of a hangover. Conside-
ring they are experts in the field I fully support this
approach.

76
Whisky in the jar

Text by Anne Becker

If you want to have a wee dram of the world’s famous

drink, that keeps Scotland warm in the winter and
genial in the summer, don’t miss a trip on The Scotch
Whisky Experience right opposite the Camera Obs-
cura at the beginning of the Royal Mile.

There you can enjoy a single malt whisky tasting. Choose between the Silver,
Gold or Collection Tour and experience for yourself the varying aromas and whe-
ther you like fruity, sweet and smoky flavours. Enjoy a tutored nosing and tasting
of their selected dram within the world’s largest collection of Scottish devil water.
For the cheapest tour an Adult pays £ 11 and Concessions £ 8,50. This one inclu-
des a dram of Scotch Malt whisky, a Glen Cairn whisky tasting glass to take away
plus a discount voucher for their shop. Under 18’s are given a soft drink.
In 1736, the word whisky developed from the Scottish-Gallic word uisge beatha,
spoken uschkeba and means water of life. A real scotch whisky shouldn’t have
less than 40 % of alcohol and a regular maturing of three years in an oak wood
barrel. In Scotland, there are 99 active distilleries and 31 inactive. Twenty five
of them are in the Highlands. From south to north the flavour gets heavier and
smokier. The region of Speyside is the main production with 48 active distilleries.
The upper-class of Edinburgh taste their devil water at the Scotch Malt Whisky
Society in Queen Street. They buy the barrels, casks and butts from the distil-
leries and don’t dilute with water to 40 %. These whiskies are not reduced and
can get up to 68%. If you are standing at the bar upstairs, don’t wonder about
the number on the bottles. They are all limited. The first number stands for the
distillery and the second for the cask. If you want to take part on this tasting, you
must be a member. The tasting and nosing begins with the lightest one from the

Lowlands, developing to a little heavier, but sweet

aroma from Speyside and the Highlands, with much
more flavour and ends with a smoky and peaty drop
from Isla. For every taste you need 15 minutes, to let
it work its magic.
After your trip to Edinburgh, you should not miss
buying one of over 300 different Single Malt, Grain
and Blended scotch whiskies on The Scotch Whisky
Experience, to remember such a truly breathtaking
experience.
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 Surrounding Areas
Escaping the city

Leith - the new upcoming “Hot-spot”

Text & photos by Pamela Kölbl

With modern houses by the port, many different

pubs and restaurants and the new shopping centre
“Ocean Terminal”, it’s easy to see why Leith is known
as the new trendy neighbourhood. A lot of people
know the cult hit-film “Trainspotting” from Danny
Boyle (based on Irvine Welsh’s novel 1993), but few
realise that the story was set in Leith. The film is about
a generation in the 1990s who were caught up in the
drug scene, once known as a problem area. During
the last 10 years many changes have occurred and
the district has become quite ambitious in impro-
ving its reputation and social scene in Edinburgh.
There will be more changes in the future. Leith also
sees itself as distinct and separate from Edinburgh.
Locals proudly call themselves “Leithers” rather than
Edinburgh residents. So, if you want to experience an
adventure, just start at the top of Leith Walk and head
the whole way down to the harbour. Don’t forget to
stop at one of the charming Swedish pubs like the
Victoria Bar. Due to its location it is filled with local
residents and you’ll have an extensive drinks menu
with Lagers from all over the world. After having a
pint with a real “Leither”, the Leith Walk will lead you
to the historic port of Leith where you can, among

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other things, visit the “Royal Yacht Britannia”.This ship
was home to the Queen and the Royal family and is
today a popular tourist attraction. Across the street
you can have a different shopping experience in the
Ocean Terminal based on the waterfront. Apart from
having over 70 stores under one roof, you’ll also find
a great selection of bars, restaurants, spa, cinema and
an indoor skate park. Be careful as you may find your-
self with an empty wallet. If you are still not tired of
discovering, don’t miss a good dinner in one of the
seafood restaurants around the harbour.

Did you know that you can listen to live-music whilst

enjoying a pint in a pub on the Leith harbour?

The Waterline
Shore, Edinburgh, Midlothian EH6, Phone: 0131 554
2425‎

Did you know that Leith has its own arts festival
which takes place every year in June?

www.leithfestival.com

Did you know that you can find on the top of Leith
Walk the best fish & chips restaurant of Leith “The Tai-
lend”?

The Tailend:
12-14 Albert Place, Leith Walk, Edinburgh, EH7 5HN
Phone: 0131-5553577

Victoria Bar
265 Leith Walk, Edinburgh, Midlothian EH6 8PD
Phone: 0131-5545706‎

Royal Yacht Britannia

Ocean Terminal, Leith, Edinburgh, Midlothian EH6
6JJ, Phone: 0131 555 5566

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 Chill-out zone

Text by Pamela Kölbl

Beaches around Edinburgh

Edinburgh is not only a vibrant city, it has much more to offer. If you like to have a
break you don’t have to travel far from the city to enjoy a fresh breeze at the sea.
As Edinburgh is situated on the coast you’ll discover tranquil beaches where you
can find a place to relax beside the sparkling water.

Portobello Beach

With its short distance from Edinburgh, this beach is the “town-beach” and well-
attended on the weekends. The long promenade invites you for a walk in every
season of the year. In the summer you’ll find a lot of surfers, swimmers and sun-
bathers who enjoy the expansive sandy coast. Don’t miss a first class lunch in
one of the pubs right by the beach or simply have an ice-cream at one of the
ice-cream vans.

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Cramond

This small beach has a charm of its own. You can wander along the coast on a
footway or you can cross the pedestrian bridge to Cramond Island. Be mindful of
the tides, as you may stay overnight when the tide comes in. This beach is easily
reached by bus or by car. If you like to have a pint and a good dinner near a fire-
place before you go back to town, don’t miss the village pub “The Cramond Inn”.

Gullane Bents

This picturesque expanse of beach with its sandy dunes is situated next to the
little village of Gullane. It’s easy to get there by bus and by car as it is only about
15 miles from Edinburgh. As well as watching the gorgeous surfers, it is also po-
pular for its breathtaking views of Edinburgh. It’s just a short walk to the cosy
village where you’ll have a large choice of pubs, cafes and restaurants.

Did you know that you can find an old Roman ruin on the coast of Cramond?

81
 Highlands
No Englishmen around? - Just fight with each other!

Text & photos by Raphaela Schedel

Imagine, on a really hot July-day in 1746 you‘re walking around through the won-
derful nature of the Highlands. You see the mountains, the Lochs, some red deer.
But you‘re not here to enjoy the nature. You are here to fight. To battle for your
life.
You are wearing a kilt and a huge sword. You are running into your enemy and
hopefully you are the one who beats him to death. Otherwise...

Battles are daily bread for the Scottish people. The history is full of it.
Up to this day, no one knows exactly, why they fought that much. But it‘s sure
that combat is in the Scots‘ blood. They just love to fight each other, and for cen-
turies the English.
So if you are this kind of person, who likes bloody battle stories then you are
totally right for the Highlands.
There are hundreds of clans in the Highlands. They still exist nowadays. And they
are very proud of their history as well as of the battles. Just to mention a few: The
MacDonalds, The Frasers, The MacKenzies and so on, revel in their blood-stained
history.
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All of them used to battle each other all the time, out of the most implausible re-
ason you can imagine. And they did not stop till most of the soldiers died. Some
of the tour-guides even affirm that some warriors took „Magic-Mushrooms“ to
daze their mind and to displace their fears. Thus it sometimes happened, that
they struggled even naked. (Aye, it DID happen!)
But of course the most hated enemy was the government in London. If there was
a problem with the English - and of course there were plenty of problems with
the English - they always allied together and fought their heart out.
The most important battle for the Scots is the Battle of Culloden (1746). It was
the last revolt of the Scots against the English and sadly also a huge loss for the
Scottish nation. You can ask every child in Scotland about it. This defeat goes
deep.
Regarding Scottish History you shouldn‘t miss the chance to get to see the batt-
lefields, to feel the atmosphere and to behave like a real Scottish soldier. (On
second thoughts, try not to pick a fight with red coats.)
So set off to the Highlands, where you can explore a world of battles, pure testo-
sterone and brave men.

Famous Battles Parties involved

Battle of Stirling Bridge England vs. Scotland („Braveheart“)
(11. September 1297)

Battle of Bannockburn England vs. Scotland

(24. June 1314)

Battle of Killiecrankie Jacobite Royalists (Highlanders & Irish) vs.

(27. July 1689) Orange Covenantor Royalists (Highlan
ders & Lowlanders)

Massacre of Glencoe Clan MacDonald vs. Clan Campbell

(13. February 1692)

Battle at the Culloden Moor British Army vs. Jacobites and French
(16. April 1746) Army
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 Dipping into a Highland adventure for a day

Text by Julia Nickenig

Beautiful lochs, great mountains, historic castles - a

trip into the Highlands is unforgettable.
Explore the wildlife with sheep, goats and highland
cows grazing in the meadows and enjoy the calm-
ness of nature. You will be impressed by the amazing
landscape surrounding you.

The Highlands are the mountain range located in

the north-west of Scotland. They are home to 650
000 people living in Inverness, the northernmost city
in the UK, in small villages or even in the middle of
nowhere.
Due to its natural beauty thousands of tourists come
every year to spend some relaxing days in the moun-
tains.

Loch Ness, famous for its legendary monster Nessie,

is the most visited place in the Highlands. With an
impressive depth of 226 metres it is the largest loch
in Scotland by volume.
On your way to Loch Ness you will pass another su-
perlative - Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the
British Isles. It is 1344 metres high and simply known
as “the Ben”.
Many locals and visitors refer to the Highlands as
the real Scotland. Indeed you can see traditional
culture there. The Gaelic language has survived and
although everybody understands English the native
folk are still able to speak the old language.
If you are there in summer don’t miss the chance to
see one of the Highland games that are held in diffe-
rent villages. You can observe competitions in discip-
lines like throwing the hammer or tossing the caber,
as well as enjoy music and dances in traditional kilts.
Since Queen Victoria first attended the games in Bra-
emar in 1848 the Royal Family is traditionally a guest
of the spectacle.
84
85
 There are several agencies starting their Highland tours in Edinburgh.

Here are some examples. For more information please ask in the tourist office.

Highland Experience Tours:

+44(0)131 226 1414
www.highlandexperience.com

Highland Explorer Tours:

+44 (0)131 558 3738
www.highlandexplorertours.com

Gray Line Scotland:

+44(0) 131 555 555
www.graylinescotland.com

86
The Scottish Kilt

Did you know…?

- the history of the kilt dates back to the

16th century

- its origin lies in the Highlands – in the

rough land kilts were more practical
than trousers

- most clans have their own pattern

- it is knee-length and shouldn’t touch

the ground when the wearer kneels
down

- most people don’t wear a kilt in eve-

ryday life but on formal occasions and
sport events

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 Scottish vocabulary
Scottish Vocabulary

The Scots are very proud of their own country being separated from the Eng-
lish. Of course they also formed their own Scottish slang (out of the Gaelic lan-
guage) which has over 25,000 different words and can sometimes be very hard
to understand. As a little help for you, we have collected some Scottish words.
Have fun with the pronunciation, it could be difficult.

Scottish Slang English

Alba The Gaelic name for Scotland
Aye Yes
Ben Mountain
Bonny Beautiful
Cannae Cannot, can‘t.
Chaynge No idea
Cludgie Toilet
Druthy Thirsty
Glen Valley
Burgh Town
Hing aff us Leave me alone
Hogmanay New Years Eve
Howff Pup
Laddie Young Man
Lassie Young Lady
Loch Lake
Piece Sandwich
Pockle Swindle
Naw No
Nippin Nagging

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It‘s a braw bricht moonlit nicht de nicht.
It‘s a beautiful bright moonlit night tonight.

Nocht Nothing
Raj Crazy
Sassenach The English, Strangers in general (insul
ting)
Scaffy Cheap and tacky
Wee Tiny

And for those of you who sometimes want to get a little rude we have also coll-
ected some words. Attention: You should not forget that most of the Scottish
men are quiet athletic and easy to anger. But of course you can give it a try and
see what happens.

Scottish Slang (rude) English

Cheb Breast
Dobber Idiot
Dokey Penis (rude)
Eeejit A Fool
Fud Vagina (rude)
Goosed Fucked
Hackit Ugly
Mad rocket A person who is crazy
Moroculous Extremely drunk
Numptie Moron
Smeekit Drunk
Windae-licker Feeble-minded
Ya Bas You Bastard.
Yer Maw cares. Who gives a shit.

For more Scottish Words use this website:

http://www.scotsdictionaries.org.uk/
89
 Useful Information

Telephone Numbers

Police 0131 311 3131

Emergency/Fire Department 999
Tourist Information 0845 225 5121
National Rail 0845 748 4950
Edinburgh Airport 0870 040 0007
Traveline 0871 200 2233
Lothian Buses and
Airlink Airport Bus 0131 555 6363
Mobile Phone Emergency 112
Taxi 0131 228 1211
Car Hire 0845 293 8400

German Embassy
23 Belgrave Square
London, SW1X 8PZ.
Tel. (+44)- 20 / 782 413 00
Fax. (+44)- 20 / 782 414 35

Important service numbers:

Emergencynumbers for EC-/Creditcard:
Euro-/Master-Card, Visa: +49-69 / 7933 1910
EC +49-1805 / 021 021
American Express +49-69 / 75761000
Diners Club +49-5921/ 86 1234
ADAC +49-89 / 22 2222

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Last Words
All good things come to an end. And so does this travel guide.
Now that you‘ve read this guide - hopefully you did because otherwise
you might have missed some important facts - and we hope that you en-
joyed it!
For more information about what‘s going on in Edinburgh please see the
attached websites and addresses.

Your Travel Guide Team

About us
Layout/Design: Sanna Giovanoli

Editor: Ruth Amelung

Writers & photographers:

Sharne Plummer
Julia Nickenig
Melanie Schütte
Fred Gratzer
Kerstin Mahler
Desi Ilker
Anne-Kathrin Becker
Anna Katharina Laschke
Raphaela Schedel
Janine Glozat
Stephanie Haupt
Friederike Ebel
Ruth Amelung
Sylvia Kasmann
Sanna Giovanoli
Pamela Kölbl
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