Creative Stamping

Creative Stamping for Walls & Furniture
The authors and publisher, ImagineQuest Information Products Inc. (ImagineQuest), have
made every effort to produce a high quality, informative and helpful book. However,
they make no representation or warranties of any kind with regard to the completeness
or accuracy of the contents of the book. They accept no liability of any kind for any losses
or damages caused or alleged to be caused, directly or indirectly, from using
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None of these owners has authorized, sponsored, endorsed, or approved this publication.
ImagineQuest has not received any remuneration in return for including
any company or product in this book.
Paint and product colors depicted in this book may vary slightly from
manufacturers colors.
Creative Stamping for Walls & Furniture is Copyright 2003
ImagineQuest Information Products Inc.
All rights reserved worldwide.
First Edition 2003. ISBN 0-9728292-0-2
Some clip art images copyright Clips Ahoy.
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Coral Springs, FL 33065
[page 2]

Dedicated to those who find joy in making
a creative impression in their homes.
[page 3]
Table ooff Cont

ents
Contents
Introduction..........................................................................6
Stamping 101........................................................................10
Project 1: Colorful Collaged Hallway.............................19
Project 2: Blissful Bedroom Seascape.........................27
Project 3: Quick & Easy Botanical Collage....................34
Project 4: Metallic Swirls on a Faux Finish...................38
Project 5: Mediterranean Spicy Squares......................42
Project 6: Floating Layers of Roses...............................46
Project 7: Natures Shadowed Impressions.................50
Project 8: Pearly Painted Motif........................................56
Project 9: Heat-Embossed Bronze Trees......................60
Project 10: Dry-Embossed Roses...................................65
Project 11: Paste-Embossed Pretty Purses..................75
Project 12: Easy Embossed Velvet Swags....................80
Project 13: Pearl Pigment Roses.....................................84
[page 4]
Project 14: Platinum Enamel Medallions......................88

Project 15: Gold Leaf Sunbursts....................................93
Beyond Rubber: Unique Techniques & Designs for Making
Your Own Stamps..............................................................97
Appendix A: Rubber Stamp Retailers............................110
Appendix B: Preparing and Priming Walls...................121
Are you ready to make a decorative impression with our

unique creative stamping techniques?
Everything you need to know is in the pages that follow....
[page 5]
IInt
nt
ro
du
ction
ntro
rodu
duction
by Marney K. Makridakis
Why Stamping?
In the past few years, the rubber stamping industry has boomed unlike no other art
or craft business. Crafters all over the world are using rubber stamps and the
abundance of associated stamping products to create beautiful cards, handmade
gifts, and one-of-a-kind pieces of art. It seemed only natural to apply these
wonderful products to home dcor projects.
This book contains projects that you wont see anywhere else. Youll learn
fabulous, EASY ways to dress up your walls and furniture using specialized
techniques with a variety of stamps - rubber stamps, foam stamps, and even
stamps you can make yourself!
But why should you attempt to create these wall and furniture projects yourself,
rather than simply buying wallpaper or purchasing hand painted furniture? I have
four great reasons for you:
1.
Save Money!!! Each project is clearly labeled with the supplies

needed to complete the project. In just about every instance,
the total youll spend on supplies per project is much less than
what you would spend for premium wallpaper or a professional job.
Youll get professional results for a fraction of the cost. And the
more projects you do, the more money youll save, since many
of the supplies are repeated from project to project.
2.
Save Time!!! My step-by-step instructions are designed

specifically for YOU, the busy home decorator who would
love nothing more than to decorate her home all day, but
doesnt have much time.
[page 6]
Ive given you lots of time-savers and quick-fix tips to help

you along your way...tips that other do-it-yourself books
dont include. All to ensure that youre producing top-quality work
in the minimum amount of time.
3.
Customize Your Home!!! By creating these special hand-stamped

finishes yourself, youre creating one-of-a-kind items that you cant
find ANYWHERE else. You can choose the colors, stamp designs,
textures, and styles that will make these items fit your dcor perfectly.
This book is packed with resources (both retail stores and Web sites)
that will allow you to get a handle on all the stamping products and
designs you can choose from. Youll be astonished at the variety!
4.
Enjoy yourself!!! When you can create a breathtaking finish

on the walls of an entire room quickly, easily, and inexpensively,
its really the perfect excuse for you to spend some quality
time with the most important person in your life -- YOU!
These projects offer you the opportunity to relax, listen to some nice
music, and let your creative spirit splash around a bit. And at the
end of it, not only will you feel more relaxed and connected with
your home, youll have FANTASTICALLY impressive results, to boot!
How does this book work?

This book starts out with a Stamping 101 section. While the individual projects
clearly walk you through each step of the project, I recommend you read
Stamping 101 first. It will give you a basic context for the different products youll
be using. And it is organized simply so that you can refer back to it as many times
as you need.
The bulk of this book is The Projects section, which contains over 150 great
ideas for your walls and furniture, organized into 15 specific projects. The first 2 are
basic stamping projects applied to actual rooms, so you can glimpse a real context
for basic stamping design.
[page 7]
The next 6 projects are variations of basic stamping that demonstrate how stamps
can be combined with paints and inks to create spectacular dcor.
The final 7 utilize a variety of advanced stamping techniques and products, such as
embossing powders, pastes, enamels, gold leafing, and more! The techniques are
more involved , but with my easy instructions, they are no more difficult than the first
set. (Really!)
Each project starts off with a Supplies Needed list. In most cases, these
supplies are readily available at fabric, craft, home improvement stores, and on the
Internet. In some cases, youll need to visit a specialty rubber stamping store or
Web site to find the product you need.
To make it even easier for you, when possible, weve included over 200 links to over
150 product and manufacturer Web sites. These links are indicated in underlined
blue. When you see a product or manufacturer name in underlined blue, simply click
it and youll be taken right to the appropriate Web site.
In Appendix A, weve also included a list of rubber stamp specialty stores, organized
by state. Between the geographic list and the Internet sources, Im confident youll
be able to find any supply item you need, quickly and easily.
After the Supplies Needed section, the next section is The Steps. The steps
are ordered sequentially, and are illustrated by photographs so that you can follow
along as you design and create.
Its recommended that you read through the entire project steps before beginning
the project. This will give you a better idea of what youre doing, from the get-go.
After The Projects, the final section is Beyond Rubber: Unique Techniques &
Designs for Making Your Own Stamps. While it is quicker to purchase stamps
ready-made, I really wanted you to have the information in this section, as well.
This section gives you everything you need to know to take the next step and
explore stamping in a highly personal way. Creating your own stamps is a great
way to personalize designs, and its a lot of fun, too!
[page 8]
Throughout the book, keep an eye out for our friendly icons that offer various bits of
information, including:
Sit n Summarize summaries on topics for quick reference

Ancient Wisdom little known facts of home and style through the
ages to inspire you along the journey
Marneys Memo my favorite ideas on how to use the techniques

in each project in other diverse ways...over150
ideas in all!
p
s
gge
Finally, S t a m n ! indicates helpful hints given as you work through the steps.
st
Su
So, without further ado, lets move on to Stamping 101. Dont worry - its a really
quick read and youll be on to The Projects in no time!
Heres to you and your new decor!
[page 9]
SStamping
tamping 101
All stamping is based on a very simple process: select a stamp, ink the image
thoroughly, and then press the stamp firmly onto the desired surface. Its that
simple!
The Construction of a Stamp
The stamps we will be using in this book are made
from either rubber or foam. The stamps are mounted
on a block of wood that you hold while you position
the stamp (right).
Some stamps are mounted on a block of acrylic
plastic, instead of wood. Usually, the image appears
on the wood block so you can identify the stamp easily.
A rubber stamp mounted on

wood.
A less expensive alternative to mounted rubber

stamps is to purchase unmounted stamps
(below right). Unmounted stamps come in sheets
and are purchased directly from stamp manufacturers.
You can then cut the image from the rubber
and mount it to any block of sturdy wood, placing
a foam material between the rubber and the
wood. You can purchase foam sheets at
a craft store for this purpose, or even use
foam shoe inserts!
An unmounted rubber stamp.
Mounting your own stamps takes a bit more time, but can save you a good
deal of money.
In addition to foam and rubber, well also show you how to make your own stamps
using a variety of materials in the section of this book titled, Beyond Rubber:
Unique Techniques & Designs for Making Your Own Stamps.
[page 10]
Thinkin About Inks

There are three basic types of stamping inks: permanent (also called water-proof
or archival ink), pigment, and dye.
Each ink has strengths and drawbacks that determine which is best for different
kinds of projects.
Permanent ink is water-proof and archival, which means that it contains no acidic
properties that can alter surfaces after long periods of time. It is light fast and stain
resistant, and is the most durable of the inks. You do not need to varnish a surface
stamped with permanent ink.
The down side is that permanent ink does not offer the options that other inks do.
The color palette is quite a bit more limited, and the ink cannot be combined with
additive products for various special effects.
Pigment ink (or embossing ink) is the only ink that can be used with embossing
powders or other materials that need to stick to a stamped image. The pads are
very juicy and the ink is slow-drying, which allows you the time you need to work
with such products.
Pigment ink also is generally the best choice if you are looking for a soft image,
i.e., for a faded, metallic, or shadowy look. Pigment ink takes about 12 hours to dry,
and should be covered with a polyurethane varnish in order to make it waterproof.
You can heat set the ink with a heat gun to make it dry quicker.
Dye ink is the most quick-drying of the options. It is the best choice when you
are working quickly, and also when you are looking for a very precise, vivid image.
Dye ink is available in endless colors. Dye inks that produce special effects have
recently come on the market, as well. For example, youll see chalk-finish and
shadow inks introduced in these projects. These inks appear more like pigment
inks, but have the quick-drying feature of dye ink.
Dye inks are not water-proof, so you will need to apply a polyurethane varnish to
seal the design.
[page 11]
Other Ways to Add Color

With foam stamps (right) you can use paint to add
color to the stamp.
Acrylic craft paint is the best option to use. Acrylic
paint is not recommended for rubber stamps unless
the design is very simple (no detailed lines or shapes)
and the stamp can be cleaned up immediately.
Paint will not work with embossing powders or other
specialty additives that we will be using in the projects
in this book, such as Pearl Ex powders and UTEE.
Another method of adding color to stamps prior to
stamping with them is to use water-based markers
directly on the rubber. Use the markers to ink
specific areas of the rubber image with the colors of
your choice.
A foam stamp and acrylic

craft paints.
Markers dry very quickly, so you can revitalize the colors on the rubber stamp by
holding it to your mouth and exhaling a burst of warm air on it before stamping with
it again.
1.
How to Apply Ink to a Stamp

If the stamp is smaller than the ink pad, the
easiest way to apply ink is simply to pat the
stamp (rubber down) directly to the pad (photo #1).
If the stamp is larger than the ink pad, you should
place the stamp on a surface and tap the pad
to the rubber, being sure to cover the entire
area you want to ink (photo #2).
2.
[page 12]
Another way to apply ink to a large stamp is to

roll a brayer over the pad, and then roll it again
over the stamp (photo #3). This covers the
stamp very thoroughly with ink.
3.
You will find that with permanent and dye inks,

it is more effective to use a tapping motion
when you ink a stamp.
With pigment ink, it is generally more effective
to use a pressing motion when you ink a stamp.
After very little use, youll get the hang of this
right away.
Hints for Stamping on Walls

Once a stamp is inked, all you have to do is press the stamp to a surface. When
you release it, an impression is left with the ink, in the shape of the design of the
stamp.
With walls, it is especially important to press firmly as you stamp. If you are
sitting down working on a stamping project (a card, for example) you have the
assistance of gravity as you press on the stamp. This isnt the case on a wall.
A good trick is to use one hand to position the stamp in the right place. Bring your
other hand on top of the hand holding the stamp and apply a good amount of
pressure with both hands.
Just be sure to keep the stamp very still so the edges of the design do not blur or
smudge.
Stamping gurus say it is a big no no to rock the stamp when you stamp it. But
using large-sized stamps on vertical surfaces is an exception. If you are handling a
large stamp, youll find that if you rock it very slightly, youll have better luck getting
the entire image to transfer to the wall.
[page 13]
The Techniques
There are so many stamping techniques out there! But we have selected these 15
projects to serve as an effective representation of the many ways you can use
stamps to enhance your dcor .
Each project includes lots for ideas on ways you can vary the steps or go above
and beyond to take the skill presented in the project to a more advanced level.
Consult the chart below for the basic skills we intend to demonstrate with each
project:
PROJECT #
PROJECT NAME
SKILL
Project 1
Colorful Collaged Hallway
Basic stamping; layering

multiple rubber stamp
images; blending with inks
Project 2
Blissful Bedroom Seascape
Using foam stamps and

acrylic paints to create
borders and murals
Project 3
Quick & Easy Botanical Collage
Basic stamping with 3

stamps & 3 colors
Project 4
Metallic Swirls on a Faux Finish
Using pigment ink and a

background stamp to
enhance a faux paint finish
Project 5
Mediterranean Spicy Squares
Stacking tile stamps to

create a large-scale
design; using dye inks
in conjunction with a
faux paint finish
Project 6
Floating Layers of Roses
Layering rubber and

foam stamps; creating
solid patterned backgrounds; floating images
with multiple stampings
[page 14]
PROJECT #
PROJECT NAME
SKILL
Project 7
Natures Shadowed Impressions
Using shadow stamps

and chalk-like inks to create
a repetitive design in
tandem with faux paint
finish
Project 8
Pearly Painted Motif
Using Radiant Pearls to

color a repetitive design
Project 9
Heat-Embossed Bronze Trees
Introduction to thermal
(heat) embossing and
detail embossing powder
Project 10
Dry Embossed Roses
Using dry (stencil)

embossed papers in
conjunction with a foam
stamp and faux paint finish
Project 11
Paste-Embossed Pretty Purses
Using embossing paste

with stencils, foam stamps,
small sponges, and
dimensional
embellishments
Project 12
Easy Embossed Velvet Swags
Introduction to embossing
velvet
Project 13
Pearl Pigment Roses
Using Pearl Ex, Perfect

Medium, and
dimensional
embellishments
Project 14
Platinum Enamel Wall Treatment
Introduction to Ultra Thick

Embossing Enamel
(UTEE)
Project 15
Gold Leaf Sunbursts
Using gold leaf flakes

with rubber stamps
[page 15]
Before You Stamp

Before you begin any of these projects, its very important that you prepare and
prime your surface. To make it easy for you, weve provided a very handy (and
quite comprehensive) guide to preparing and priming surfaces in Appendix B. Its a
resource youll be able to use time and time again as you undertake wall dcor
projects.
All of these projects are stamped upon a painted surface, so after you prepare
and prime, the next step is painting. We used latex (water-based) paint for all of
our projects. We like BEHR Premium paints because they have the durability and
saturation of alkyd (oil-based) paint, but the easy cleanup of latex (water-based)
paint.
Paint comes in several finishes: matte, satin, semigloss, and hi-gloss. We used a
satin finish (sometimes called eggshell, pearl, or velvet finish) for these projects.
Satin is the happy medium between matte and gloss. A satin finish provides a
handsome, subtle sheen to highlight your stamped work.
Some of the projects require an even coat of paint in one color before the
stamping begins. You can always add a second coat if it is needed to provide
adequate coverage. This may be the case if you are painting over existing paint or
if you prefer a deeper shade of the color with which youre painting. Multiple coats
will always make the shade appear deeper.
Other projects give instructions for special finishes, such as sponging, dragging,
and faux fresco. These projects require a glazing liquid that is mixed with the paint,
such as BEHR Faux Glazing Liquid.
After You Stamp

Whether or not you must varnish your surface after completing the project
depends on the kind of ink used in the project. Dye and pigment inks need to be
washed in order to be waterproof, while permanent inks do not. In each specific
project, we advise you as to whether you should complete the project with varnish, or
not.
[page 16]
Varnish comes in several finishes, including matte, semigloss, and glossy. These
finishes may be identified by different names, depending on the brand you are
using.
More often than not, youll use matte varnish (sometimes referred to as flat). In
most cases, it is doubtful that you would want to create a glossy finish on your walls.
However, you should know that it is an option for you, if you want to go that route.
There are many different brands of polyurethane varnish. If you are going to be
varnishing several walls, it is far more economical to buy the varnish from a home
improvement or hardware store, rather than a craft store. You can even buy varnish
in a spray can and simply spray the wall with it.
Whatever varnish you select, just make sure it is waterproof. Protecting your design
is the most important reason for using a varnish.
Cleaning Up
There are many different stamp cleaners on the market. They come in both spray
bottles and applicator top bottles, and are always identified by the type of ink for
which they are intended - pigment, dye, or permanent.
Stamp scrubbers are pads specifically designed to get into all the tiny crevices of
a rubber stamp. They are sold at stamping and craft stores and are worth the low
price.
If you dont have a scrubber, stamp on a paper towel pre-moistened with with
cleaner, and then use an old soft toothbrush to get into the crevices. Stamp repeatedly on a dry paper towel until there is no trace of ink left.
Pigment and dye inks can be removed with stamp cleaner or with a do-it-yourself
mixture of about 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid in 1 cup of water. Put this mixture in
a spray bottle and spray liberally on the scrubber or paper towel you will be using to
clean the stamp.
Another option for cleaning stamps with pigment and dye inks is to use baby wipes.
Simply wipe across the stamp and then stamp a dry paper towel until the ink is
gone. This is a quick way to clean stamps, and the moisturizers in the baby wipes
keep the rubber supple and soft.
[page 17]
Permanent ink (or any ink marked as multi-purpose)

requires a special solvent- type cleaner. If the cleaner
has an applicator top bottle, such as the one pictured
here (right), you simply rub the applicator top on the
rubber and then stamp a dry paper towel repeatedly
until it stamps clear.
Never immerse rubber stamps in water. After cleaning,
store stamps lying flat, rubber side down, away from the
sunlight.
Everyt
hing e
lse you need
veryth
else
to know is in t
he page
s
the
pages
th at f
o l low
....so let
s get
fo
ow....so
lets
star
ted!
tarted!
A cleaner with an
applicator top makes
cleaning stamps a
snap! (Fabric &
Permanent Ink Cleaner
is by JudiKins.)
Get ready to enter the wonderful world of stamps and inks!

[page 18]
Proje
ct 1:
Project
way
Colorful Collag
Hallw
Collagee d Hall
A lively stamped finish makes an impression in this stairwell!
For our first project, were introducing two design layouts that add splash and
character to walls in hallways or stairways, as shown here. Select your own stamps
and colors to make these techniques work in absolutely any room...from bedrooms
to kitchens to bathrooms to formal dining rooms! And can you believe that NO paint
is involved...just ink pads!
You can use these two designs one their own, or together. For the narrow stairwell,
the blended collage design (above left) could be a bit heavy, if applied to both walls.
So, we selected one stamp design from the collage and used it repeatedly in
varying colors, to create a linear pattern on the opposite wall. Whether you are
stamping, painting, or wallpapering, selecting one wall to hold a different design is
always a great way to break up pattern and provide contrast.
[page 19]
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
White latex paint for base coat

Permanent ink in medium brown (We used Archival Ink by Ranger
in Sepia.)
Pigment ink in golden yellow, orange,yellow-green, garnet red, and
dark and light brown. (We got all of our colors from the ColorBox
Paintbox 2 Pigment Ink Option Pad by Clearsnap. Each small
rectangular ink pad is removable to be used individually.)
Variety of rubber stamps of images you love (See photo below for
product names and numbers of the ones we used.)
Paper towels
Polyurethane varnish
Paint brushes for the white base coat and varnish
1. Time Dreamer #1609-I by

Stamp Oasis
2. #E-2065 by Silver Crow Creations
2.
1.
Clockwise, from bottom left :

Paintbox 2 Pigment Ink Option Pad
by Clearsnap, Sepia Archival Ink and
rubber tamps, labeled by number:
3.
5.
6.
3. #E2000 by PSX
4. Sun Compass Large #H59-245
by Stampa Rosa
5. Big Maple #A2494H by
Rubber Stampede
4.
9.
7.
10
10.
8.
6. Swallowtail #E1131 by
Impression Obsession
7. Sheet Music #2120-K by Raindrops on Roses (1-800-245-8617)
8. #I-20218 from the Renaissance line by Stampa Rosa.
9. #K-1781 from the Home Decor line by PSX
10. Antique Map Background #S1712 by Hero Arts
[page 20]
1.
THE STEPS:
1. We created our design on a blank white wall
(photo #1). If necessary, prepare and prime wall,
and paint with white paint.
2. Apply permanent ink to the map background
stamp by tapping the ink pad on the rubber
(photo #2).
m p ! permanent ink makes a solid image

a
t
S
t n that dries quickly, and pigment ink
s
e
g
makes a softer, saturated image. For
Sug
As we explained in Stamping 101,
this project, we used permanent

ink for the background map. We
wanted it to be a very sharp, crisp
image since it is the stamp that serves
as the starting point for the entire
design. We used pigment ink for
all the remaining stamps, to achieve
the rich, saturated, blended look we
wanted. Feel free to experiment with
different types of ink.
2.
3.
3. When the stamp is sufficiently inked, press it to

the wall firmly (photo #3). When you remove it from the
wall, the ink will have left an impression (photo #3a).
The character of this collage design
p
m
a
in the random placement of stamped 3a
S t s t n ! isimages.
3a.
However, if you dont have
e
g
a lot of experience in visual composition,
Sug
facing a whole blank wall can be
overwhelming. Our solution is to create
a basic cluster of designs that you like.
Then, you can repeat the designs over
the entire wall, taking advantage of the
fact that you dont HAVE to replicate the
cluster exactly. Enjoy the freedom!
[page 21]
4. Now, begin composing a collage of designs. Follow the progression below

(photos #4-#4d) to see how we built up our basic collage:
4.
4a
4a.
First, we stamped a sun

compass in dark brown
pigment ink, right in the
middle of the map.
Next, we stamped two

leaves in yellow-green
pigment ink, placed
to the bottom right of
the map.
4b
4b.
4d
4d.
Then we stamped a butterfly

in light brown pigment ink
below and to the left
of the two leaves.
4c
4c.
Continue stamping...
to build up a basic
collage of images.
easy rule of thumb when making this collage is to not place

mp ! An
a
t
images
stamped in the same color right next to one another. This
S
t n project uses
s
e
several shades of brown, red, and green. Varying the
g
Sug
placement of the color is an easy way to ensure balance in the
composition...no art training needed!
[page 22]
5. Once you have created a basic

collage, you can start repeating
the elements across the wall
(photo #5). Dont worry about
positioning the elements in exactly
the same place, relative to another,
as you work. Just use your basic
collage as a guiding point, and feel
free to change the positions of the
stamps and/or colors as you like. If
theres a big white space, fill it
with a stamp...if theres too much green
in one area, stamp your next image in
red or brown.
5.
For the background inks, we used ink pads

from the ColorBox Paintbox 2 Pigment Ink
p
m
a
Pad by Clearsnap (photo #5a). The
S t s t n ! Option
small
size
of the pad makes it easier to apply
e
g
g
u
ink in the small areas between images.
S
However, with a bit of control, you can follow
these steps using a larger pigment ink pad.
5a
5a.
A little ink pad goes a long way. We did our entire wall with this
option pad, and the ink in the pads never ran low. However, if you are
stamping multiple walls in a large room, dont worry if your pad starts
to lose ink after a while. All ink manufacturers make re-inkers (liquid
ink in small bottles), which save you from having to purchase an new
inkpad. Just follow the re-inkers instructions to apply drops of
ink to the pad, and your pad will be good as new.
6. The next step is to begin adding the blended
colors to the background. Blending three colors
works very well. We chose gold yellow, orange,
and light brown. Start with the lightest color you will
be using in the background (in this case, golden
yellow pigment ink.) Use a small twisting motion
with your wrist to press the pad directly to the wall,
twisting slightly as you press. Repeat several times
within a small area (photo #6).
6.
[page 23]
Focusing on a single 6-8 square area

p
at a time works very well. Since you will
m
S t a s t n ! be applying three colors of ink within
ge
that square, only cover a part of it with
S ug
the first color. You can always go back
and add more of that color, later.
7. Use a dry paper towel to rub the spots of
ink in a circular motion, blending the color so that
none of the ink pads dark lines (from the edges
of the pad) are visible (photo #7). Leave a bit of
white space around each stamped image as you
work. This gives each image a highlighted halo
that makes it stand out.
7.
8.
8. When the area is completely blended, apply

the ink pad of the next color directly to the wall
with the same pressing and twisting motion
(photo #8). Use a paper towel to blend the ink in,
just as you did in step #7.
blending the second and third colors, you can either use a new
m p ! When
a
t
towel, or continue to use the paper towel you used to blend the
S
t n paper
s
e
first
color.
In the latter case, a bit of the previous color will join with the
g
g
u
S
color you are blending, which is a nice effect. Also, you can use a
damp paper towel to blend in select areas, which softens the intensity
of the color, adding more depth to the wall.
9.
9. Apply the third color of ink to

the area, using the same technique
as with the previous colors. Then,
go back with a paper towel to blend
any areas that still need softening.
At this point, youll have a 6-8 area
with a well-blended background, with
white areas highlighting each stamped
image (photo #9).
[page 24]
m p ! If, after youve blended the colors, there is an area where the color
a
t
S
st n seems too pronounced, or an area that seems too empty, go ahead
e
g
and stamp another image to fill the gap or lessen the contrast
Sug
of the color (photo #9a).
10. Repeat the blending process for the rest of the wall (photo #10).
10
10.
9a
9a.
11. Next, we stamped the opposite wall of the stairwell using one single image from
the collage. The image was repeated in horizontal lines across the wall. We used
three colors -- dark brown, yellow-green, and light brown -- and alternated each row
(be sure to clean the stamp between colors). Follow the progression below
(photos #11-#11b):
11
11.
We stamped a single row of

Kokopelli images in light brown.
11a
11a.
11b
11b.
Then we stamped another

row directly beneath the first
row, this time using
yellow-green ink.
We continued stamping until the
wall was covered with rows!
[page 25]
m p ! to create a bit of uneven character, you also could

a
t
S
t n use a yard stick to lightly mark lines straight across
s
e
g
Sug
using a pencil. After the ink is dry (about 12 hours),
While we simply eyed the horizontal lines, in order
you can use an eraser to erase the pencil line.

12. Allow the stamped images to dry for at least 24 hours. Do not apply varnish
before then, as the pigment ink will smear.
13. Apply polyurethane varnish in the desired finish to seal your design.
Marneys Memo
In this project, I used ink pads from the ColorBox Paintbox 2 Option Pad by
Clearsnap. As we mentioned earlier, each ink pad is removable to be used as an
individual ink pad. But whats really great about the Paintbox configuration is that
you can place a stamp directly on the entire pad collection to get several colors at
once on your stamp. This is especially effective with large stamps.
You can even rearrange the ink pads to choose which colors you want next to one
another. Its a great way to add even further interest to a project like this one. Just
make sure to clean your stamp before re-inking, so the wrong color of ink doesnt
end up directly on the pad.
Another variation on the blended collage design is to create the blended background before stamping the wall with the rubber stamps. The overall look becomes
more smooth and subtle, since the images arent highlighted with white around
them.
You can use this same blended collage technique on furniture, too! Visualize how it
would look -- with your own color scheme and stamp design choices -- on tables,
wooden chair backs, stools, desks, bookshelves, and more!
Keep reading for more great stamping designs for your walls and furniture...weve
only just begun!!!
[page 26]
Proje
ct 2:
Project
Blis
sful B
Blissful
Bee droom
Seascape
Imagine if the tranquility of the ocean
could be captured in the heart of your
bedroom (or bathroom, or kitchen,
or den)!
Well, with basic stamping know-how
and easier-than-you-could-imagine
decorative painting, it can be yours!
This fun project is straightforward and
easy. It requires minimal supplies,
simple clean-up, and (youll love this)
you can complete it in a single day!
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
A calming scene graces the walls of this

stamped sanctuary.
White paint for base coat

Clear Pool paint by BEHR, satin finish
Acrylic craft paints (We used Accent paints
in Larkspur Blue, Coral Blush, Purple
Crayon, and Wild Hyacinth; Baby Blue
by Americana; and Glazed Carrots and
Turners Yellow Folk Art paint by Plaid. These
brands are available at craft stores such as
Michaels and A.C. Moore.)
Ocean-themed foam stamps (Ours are
from the Chunky Stamps line by Duncan.)
Sponge brushes or cosmetic sponges
(1 for each color)
A wide, long-bristled soft paint brush (often
called a dragging brush or faux finish brush)
Paint brushes for the white base coat and
varnish
Clockwise from left: dragging

brush, sponge brushes,
Dolphin, Life Preserver,
Star Fish, Shell, Sea Horse,
Wide Shell, Gold Fish, Fish
(all foam stamps by
Chunky Stamps), acrylic
paints.
[page 27]
THE STEPS:
1. We created our design on a blank white wall.
If necessary, prepare and prime wall, and paint
with white paint.
2.
2. We used foam stamps and acrylic paint for

this project. The easiest way to apply the paint
to the stamp is to use a sponge brush or cosmetic
sponge. Lightly dab medium blue paint on the
appropriate raised areas of the life preserver foam
stamp (photo #2). Then apply light blue to the remaining
areas.
3.
3. Press the foam stamp firmly to wall (photo #3).

When you release the stamp, the two paint colors
will have left an impression (photo #3a).
4. Apply dark orange paint to the star fish stamp,
and press the stamp on the wall next to the
the life preserver image (photo #4). When you
release the stamp, the impression of the star
fish remains (photo #4a).
3a
3a.
5. Repeat stamping the life preserver and star fish in a

horizontal line according to the desired pattern. We
alternated 5 life preservers with 5 star fish, and continued
the line around a corner (photo #5). We spaced the images
about 1.5 apart. We eyed our stamp
placement, but you can measure and mark the
exact spacing prior to stamping, if you prefer.
5.
4.
4a
4a.
[page 28]
6. Next, we created another horizontal line of alternating designs, this time using
two shell stamps (photo #6). Our second row was placed 18 higher than the first
row. Apply salmon pink paint to one of the shells and stamp it on the wall 3 times
(photo #6a).
6a
6a.
6.
7. Apply medium blue paint to the other shell,

and stamp it on the wall 3 times, next to the
salmon-colored shells.
8.
8. Continue stamping in the same alternating

pattern, until the row is complete (photo #8).
p Stamping in horizontal lines

m
a
St s t n ! in a repeated pattern produces
an even, streamlined look that
ge
g
u
is calming and pleasing. An
S
alternative is to stamp the
images randomly on the wall.
This will create more pattern
and thus, a higher energy
given off by the wall.
9. After creating the rows of stamped images,

the next step is to paint the ocean, to which
you will later add stamped images. In the area
you have designated for the ocean apply Clear
Pool paint with the dragging brush (photo #9).
Use long, sweeping strokes to create an upwards
curve. (Note that the color is very pale, and so
these strokes will be very subtle.)
9.
[page 29]
m p !in mind, as you create

a
t
S
t n the strokes for the
s
e
g
waves (photo #9a).
Sug
Keep the end result
9a
9a.
You are going to create

a succession of curves
(just like the waves
you used to draw in
elementary school!)
with several peaks that
act as waves. The
basic pattern for your paint strokes is:
You may even want to lightly draw this simple pattern on the wall,
to give you guide for your paint strokes.
10. While the strokes of Clear Pool paint are
still wet, dip the tip of a sponge brush into the
medium blue paint. Use the very edge of the
brush to apply thin lines of blue paint on top of
the Clear Pool paint (photo #10). Apply several
strokes at random everywhere that there is
wet Clear Pool Paint. (The lines will appear
very stark, but dont worry, well be blending
them, next.)
10
10.
p To achieve a sense of movement

m
a
S t s t n ! in the water, apply the thin lines of
darker blue so that they are going
ge
g
u
S
in the same direction as the original
strokes of the Clear Pool paint.
[page 30]
11. Drag the dragging brush over the

darker blue lines, brushing in the same
direction as the painted wave. This will
blend the darker blue with the pale blue
(photos #11 and #11a).
11.
m p Youll find that if you go over a

S ta s t n !curve several times, the blending
ge
happens naturally. No fancy
g
u
S
moves are required...just brush the
dragging brush back and forth a
few times, in the same direction as
the wave. The result is rich with
depth and variation (photo #11b).
12. Repeat these
steps until you have
covered the desired
surface with ocean
(photo #12).
11b.
11a.
13. Allow the paint

to dry completely,
about 30 minutes.
14. The next step is to use foam stamps to add designs to the ocean.
We used two fish, a dolphin, and a sea horse (photo #14).
12
12.
14
14.
[page 31]
15. Stamp the dolphin twice, using medium blue paint, as shown in the progression
below (photos #15-#15b).
15
15.
15a
15a.
15b
15b.
16. Apply two different colors of paint to one of the fish stamps, using one color for
the fishs body, and another for the fins, as shown in the following progression
(photos #16 and #16a).
16a
16a.
16
16.
17
17.
17. Apply paint to the other
fish and the sea horse, and
stamp the images on the
wall (photo #17). Repeat
as desired, until you are
happy with how life under
the sealooks!
[page 32]
18. Allow paint to dry completely. To protect your design, apply a polyurethane
varnish in the desired finish.
And thats how quick and easy it is to create a
seascape right on your wall!
Marneys Memo
Oceana isnt your thing? No problem! You can use foam stamps to create all kinds
of atmospheres. Create an English Garden ambiance using rose stamps in
multiple sizes, and stamps with trellis and fence designs. Create an exotic
Asian Ambiance using stamps with Asian characters and those of simple lilies,
ferns, and bamboo. Bring festive patriotism to a sun porch or breakfast nook by
stamping American flags, picnic baskets, and other Americana in bold primary
colors. Stamp playful images of dolls and dresses in a young girls room, or
perhaps in your laundry room! Check out the foam stamps at your local craft store,
and see what ideas YOU come up with!
[page 33]
Proje
ct 3:
roject
Qui
Quicck & Easy
Bo
tani
cal Collag
Botani
tanical
Collagee
For this project, were going
to show just how easy it is to
create a wonderful, soft and subtle
design on your walls with just three
stamps and three inks!
This botanical design is extremely
versatile. It can add flair to
casual rooms (bedrooms, family
rooms) as well as bring
sophistication to formal rooms (living
rooms, dining rooms).
A neutral free-form botanical design is the perfect

backdrop in casual and formal rooms, alike.
Best of all, its so easy and quick! And it creates a custom design for your walls for
a fraction of the cost of designer wallpaper.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
Citronelle paint by BEHR, satin finish

Three different leaf rubber stamps
(Ours are from Rubber Stampede; see
photo at right for product names and
numbers)
Pigment ink in three colors, two green and
one brown (We used ink pads from the
Tuscany ColorBox Petal Point Option Pad
by Clearsnap. Each petal-shaped ink pad
is removable to be used as an individual
ink pad.)
Paint brush for the varnish
Clockwise, from left: Pigment

option pad by Clearsnap, three
stamps from Rubber Stampede:
Big Maple #A2494H;
Fern Frond #A2490E; Liquid
Amber #A2497H.
[page 34]
THE STEPS:
1. Prepare and prime walls, as necessary.
3.
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Citronelle

paint. Apply a second coat if needed for
adequate coverage or desired depth of color. Allow
the paint to dry thoroughly.
Determine which color you will use for each
stamp. We used brown for the Big Maple, dark
green for the Fern Frond, and light green for the
Liquid Amber. We used pigment stamps for this
project because the color is softer and more
subtle than with dye or permanent ink. This
allowed us to achieve the soft floating look of
the images. Just remember that pigment ink
takes longer to dry - so be careful not to smear
your work as you go!
m p Start stamping at the top of

St a s t n ! the wall and work down. This
ge
reduces the risk of smudging
g
u
S
the stamped images.
4.
4a
4a.
3. Select one stamp and apply ink to it by gently

pressing the ink pad to the stamp (photo #3).
4. When the stamp is sufficiently inked, press
the stamp to the wall firmly (photo #4).
When you remove the stamp from the wall,
the ink will have left an impression (photo #4a).
5.
5. Repeat these steps to apply ink to the other

two leaf stamps and stamp them to the wall in
a random arrangement surrounding the first
impression you made (photo #5).
[page 35]
mp
images at once, for example,
S ta s t n !Maple
and
then
proceeding on to the next
e
g
g
stamp, its easier to switch among
Su
Rather than stamping all of the
the stamps as you go so you have

more control over the composition. Step
back from time to time and look at the
overall design. If there seems to be too
much space between two images, just stamp
another leaf between them. Since each
stamp is only used with one color, you have the
flexibility of using any stamp at any given time.
6. Repeat until the entire wall

is filled and you are pleased
with the design (photo #6).
6.
7. Allow the stamped images

to dry for 24 hours. Do not
apply varnish before then,
as the pigment ink will smear.
8. Apply polyurethane varnish
in the desired finish to seal
your design.
And your gorgeous wall is done!!!
Ancient Wisdom
The use of leaves in home dcor has been trendy for a long time! Leaves were one
of the most popular motifs in the Georgian period, named for the long reign of
Englands three King Georges I, II, and III. During this period (1714-1795), the leaf
motif was especially prevalent in ornamental furniture and was a symbol of wealth
and prosperity.
[page 36]
Marneys Memo
Hopefully, this project has given you an idea of how easy it is to use stamping in
dcor -- just ink, stamp, repeat!
I recommend you visit a craft supply or specialty rubber stamping store and browse
the rubber stamps. Youll get a good idea of the kind of images you could use for
this kind of simple design.
To find a rubber stamping store near you, just enter rubber stamping retail store
and your location in a search engine, or consult our list of selected stamping stores
by region in Appendix A.
Or, to browse through an even greater inventory selection, check out a stamping
Web site that carries stamps by many manufacturers. My favorite is Addicted To
Rubber Stamps, which has over 250,000 stamps and accessories. You can have a
ball looking through their stamps, searching by theme, manufacturer, or size. You
have to see this site to believe it...I encourage you to check it out.
And consider the ways you could use this simple random design on furniture and
other dcor items, such as:
- Coffee tables
- Picture frames
- Dining tables
- Window sills
- Desks
- Lamp shades
- Chair seats
- Wood floors
- Headboards
- Bookshelves
- Chair backs (right)

- Armoires
- Baseboards
- Storage bins
- Chair rails
- Decorative boxes
- Chests
- End tables
- Foot stools
- Cabinets
Stamped images on this chair back add
rustic, hand-made charm.
[page 37]
Proje
ct 4:
Project
Metalli
irls
etallicc Sw
Swirls
on a FFaux
aux Finish
This stylish and dramatic finish
consists of a swirl stamp with
metallic ink applied to a faux
faded fresco finish.
The whimsical stamp works
with the classic finish because
they both are based on circular
shapes. As youll see below,
the finish is applied in a circular
A highly textured finish creates a soft and sophisticated
motion. The soft metallic
backdrop for formal rooms.
swirls echo that motion to
create a cohesive, eye-catching
design.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
Holland Blue and Summer Pear

paints by BEHR, satin finish
Glazing medium (We like BEHR
Faux Glazing Liquid)
Clockwise from left: Swirl stamp by
Large swirl background stamp (We
Denami Design, sponge, Champagne
used a large stamp by
Encore ink by Tsukineko.
Denami Design)
Pigment metallic ink (We used
Encore Metallic Ink in Champagne
by Tsukineko. We highly recommend
Encore pigment inks when you need a metallic pigment ink. The color
saturation is excellent while remaining soft to the eye.)
Paint brush
Sponge
[page 38]
THE STEPS:
1. Prepare and prime walls, as
necessary. Prepare a mixture of
glazing medium and Summer Pear,
according to the ratio given in the instructions
on the glazing product.
2. The first step is to use a dry brush
technique to apply the Holland Blue
paint to the entire surface of the wall.
Dry brushing creates a very textured
surface using very little paint. Dip the
tip of a large household paint brush into
undiluted paint and scrape off as much
as possible. Brush on to the wall, making
criss-crosses in varying directions (photo
#2).
Continue working in the same way,
adding more paint to the tips of your
brush only when very little paint is released
when you are brushing. Continue to brush,
adding tiny bits of paint until you are
pleased with the effect.
2.
3.
3a
3a.
3. Dip a sponge into the mixture of glaze

and Summer Pear and apply over the
still-wet blue paint in a circular motion
(photo #3). Dont cover up the blue paint entirely,
rather let the textured finish of the blue paint show
through in some spots (photo #3a). Allow the paint to dry thoroughly.
m p ! In this example, we applied the Summer Pear paint

a
t
S
the Holland Blue was still wet. This creates a very blended
s t n while
e
g
look
where
the two colors mix together. If you want more definition
Sug
between colors, simply allow the dry brushed blue to dry
completely prior to sponging the Summer Pear.
[page 39]
4. Apply the metallic pigment ink to the swirl

stamp (photo #4).
4.
mp
pad and apply it to the
S t a s t n !ink
stamp (see photo #4),
g e the
g
rather
than pressing the
u
S
It is often easier to hold the
stamp on the ink pad.

This is especially the case
with large stamps, such as
the one we use in this
project.
5. Apply the stamp to the top of the wall

(starting at the top and working downward
reduces the risk of smudging your work).
First, place it in the appropriate position
(photo #5) and then use two hands to
apply pressure with a very slight rocking
motion. When you remove the stamp, the
metallic ink will have left an impression
(photo #5a). If there are areas that didnt
get stamped completely, dont worry - that just
adds to the aged look of the finished product.
6. Re-ink the stamp, and apply it
vertically below the first image
(photo #6). When you have
completed the first column of swirls,
begin another column (photo #6a).
Our columns are spaced about
6 apart from one another.
Repeat until the entire wall is
filled and you are pleased
with the design.
6.
5.
5a
5a.
6a
6a.
7. Allow the stamped images

to dry for 24 hours. Do not
apply varnish before then,
as the pigment ink will smear.
[page 40]

And thats it! Your friends will think your wall was
professionally painted...only youll know the truth!
Ancient Wisdom
Fresco is an ancient art that originated in Italy. Fresco artists painted on wet
plaster using pigments and water. The result is a soft, subtle color blend with
dramatic depth. Even though it is an ancient art, its one of the hottest
finishes for walls and ceilings of both old and new homes.
Marneys Memo
I really love this project because it is so versatile for both walls and furniture in
any decorating style. The faux faded fresco background makes it perfect for the
so-called classical styles (Traditional,Traditional Romantic) while the metallic
swirls are a lovely modern touch for Contemporary style dining rooms and living
rooms. And with a little imagination, you can adapt it for other styles simply by
changing the color scheme! Heres what I mean:
European Country style: Faux finish in bright yellow and blue, swirls in deep
forest green
American Country style: Faux finish in red and pink, swirls in bright sky blue
Formal Contemporary: Faux finish in eggplant and gray, swirls in silver
Rustic style: Faux finish in two warm terra cotta colors, swirls in metallic copper
Traditional Romantic: Faux finish in terra cotta and pink, swirls in gold
Casual Romantic: Faux finish in peach and cream, swirls in mint green
Spiritual: Faux finish in two tones of pale gray, swirls in white or silver
Eclectic: Anything goes!
For more information about decorating styles, check out our comprehensive
home decorating book, Awaken Your Interior Designer.
[page 41]
Proje
Projecct 5:
erranean
Medit
diterranean
Spi
cy Squar
es
Spicy
Squares
This technique is a great way
to add a rich, exotic touch to
any room.
Like project 4, Metallic Swirls
on a Faux Background, this
technique is built upon a
textured paint finish. While
the stamped design clearly
takes center stage, the
background gives the surface
its dimension and soft, aged
feel.
Add some spice to your living space with this elegant

and exotic design!
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
Nutmeg Swirl paint by BEHR, satin finish

Glazing medium (We like BEHR
Faux Glazing Liquid)
Large and small decorative tile
stamps (Ours are from the Renaissance
line by Stampa Rosa; see photo at right
for product numbers and links.)
Clockwise from bottom left:
Permanent ink in dark red and blue (We
Corner6 REN-CO46, Tile4
REN-T065, both by Stampa
used Archival Ink by Ranger in Crimson
Rosa (both are available at
and Cobalt. Rangers Archival Ink is our
AddictedToRubberStamps.com),
recommended choice for permanent ink.
Cobalt Archival Ink,
It goes on smooth and is extremely durable.) Crimson Archival Ink.
Sponge
Optional: polyurethane varnish and paint brush
[page 42]
THE STEPS:
1. Prepare and prime walls, as
necessary. Prepare a mixture of
glazing medium and Nutmeg Swirl,
according to the ratio given in the instructions
on the glazing product.
2. Using the sponge, apply the glaze
mixture to the wall in wide overlapping
circles (photo #2). Continue until you
have covered the entire wall. The end
result will be softly textured, with some
areas darker than others (photo #2a). Allow
the paint to dry thoroughly.
2.
2a
2a.
3. Ink the larger tile stamp with Cobalt

ink (photo #3).
4. Press the stamp firmly to the wall in
the appropriate position (photo #4),
keeping in mind that this stamp will be
one of four corners making up a larger design
(photo #4a).
3.
4.
4a
4a.
m p !In this project, we use a single tile stamp four times to create
a
t
S
s t n a larger design (photo #4a). Alternatively, you could use a larger
e
g
stamp to create a similar design all at once. The background
Sug
stamps by Stamp Rosa (available at AddictedToRubberStamps.com)

are great for this option.
[page 43]
5.
5. Re-ink the stamp and press it firmly

on the wall directly next to the first image
(photo #5). Be sure to turn the stamp so
that the same corner of the design will face
inward for each of the four images you
stamp. Repeat until all four tiles are
stamped (photo #5a).
6. Ink the small corner stamp with Crimson
ink and press the stamp so that the bottom right
corner of the stamp lines up with the top left
corner of the large design you created with
the four tile images. Repeat until you have
a small Crimson corner stamped at each
corner of the larger design (photo #6).
7. After stamping the four Crimson corners,
start the procedure over again to stamp the
four Cobalt tiles. Continue repeating the
design so that each small Crimson corner
joins a larger tile image (photo #7).
5a
5a.
6.
8. Repeat until the entire wall is finished.

Since you are using permanent ink, the
ink dries very quickly. The ink is water-proof,
durable, and totally fade-resistant, even if a
varnish is not applied. However, you may
want to apply a varnish if the wall is in
an area where it may be stained easily.
That way, you can simply clean stains
with a damp cloth.
7.
Voila! A highly detailed

Mediterranean-style
finish. Pretty easy, eh?
[page 44]
Marneys Memo
Though this specific project focused on a Mediterranean look, there are lots of
ways you can adjust it for your own needs. Here are some ideas to get your
imagination going:
- Use the same (or similar) tile stamps, but alter the color scheme.
Consider soft pastels for a romantic look. Or make a dramatic statement
by only using black and white, or any two colors with high contrast....one
color for the background, and another color for the tiles.
- For a less textured look, simply apply the background paint in a single
color with a roller. The tile images will stand out even more.
- When you stamp the tile four times
to make the larger square design,
consider alternating the colors for
interest. Or apply more than one
color to the single tile (near right).
The easiest way to do this is to ink the
Each square was
stamp with an multi-colored ink pad,
inked with two colors...
such as the one shown here (far right).
You also can tap individual ink pads on
a single stamp to ink it with several colors.
using a multi-colored
ink pad. (Brilliance
3-Color Stamp Pad
by Tuskineko.
- Create a lace-like effect by painting the wall in a creamy off-white, and

stamping the tiles in bright white. Use a very pale pastel or tinted white for
the small corner stamps that join the larger squares.
- This project uses one stamp to make a larger,
more elaborate design. You can use the same
technique with a non-square image. For example,
stamp a flower eight times with the stem always
pointing in the middle (right). You can create a
simplified kaleidoscope-like effect by doing this
with absolutely any image.
One stamp can

create an intricate design!
[page 45]
Pr
oje
ct 6:
Proje
oject
Floating La
yers
Layers
of R
oses
Roses
This pretty, feminine design
is perfect for bedrooms,
bathrooms, kitchens, and
informal dining areas.
If you want to dress your
walls in patterns, this is
a much cheaper method
than wallpapering. It
looks intricately hand
painted, but its actually
done with only two stamps!
A pretty pattern of layered roses exudes a cozy, feminine feel.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
Pecan Delight paint by BEHR, satin

finish
Rose background stamp (Ours is from
PSX; see photo for product number)
Large rose foam stamp (Ours is from
the Chunky Stamps line by Duncan)
Dye ink in dark pink (We used Garnet
Vivid! Ink by Clearsnap)
Bright red and mint green acrylic craft
paint (we used Accent paints in Holiday
Red and Seafoam Green)
Two cosmetic sponges
Paper plate
Polyurethane varnish and paint brush
Clockwise from lower left: Vivid!

Dye Ink by Clearsnap, Stamp
#K-3108 from PSX, Seafoam Green
Accent acrylic paint, Holiday Red
Accent acrylic paint, rose foam
stamp from Chunky Stamps by
Duncan.
[page 46]
THE STEPS:
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Pecan
Delight. Apply a second coat if needed for
adequate coverage or desired depth of color.
Allow paint to dry thoroughly.
3.
3. Apply pink dye ink to the background

roses stamp using the ink pad directly on
the stamp (photo #3) or using a brayer
(photo #3a). We used dye ink in this project
because it dries quickly and the color intensity
is generally the brightest of all ink choices.
4. Press the background stamp firmly
to the wall surface. First, position the
large stamp and then use two hands to
apply pressure with a very slight rocking
motion. When you release the stamp,
the ink will have left an impression.
3a.
5.
5. Re-ink the stamp and stamp the next

area on the wall (photo #5).
This particular stamp has
m p !a gradient-like design, with larger

a
t
S
at the base of the stamp,
s t n roses
e
g
working up to smaller buds at the
Sug
top of the stamp. We varied the
placement of the stamp so that the
roses did not line up exactly. This
scattered roses of different sizes
along the background. We even
overlapped the stamp image in
places. If you choose to overlap
the stamp, do so sparingly in
selected positions. If there is
too much overlap, the color and
designs will look muddy.
5.
[page 47]
6. Repeat until the entire area is covered with

the background image (photo #6).
6.
7. Allow the ink to dry before proceeding.

(Dye ink dries completely in about 20 minutes
or less.)
7. Squeeze a bit of the red and green
paint on a paper plate (photo #7). Using
one cosmetic sponge for each color,
tap the wide end into the paint, and then
lightly rub the raised area of the foam
stamp with the appropriate color. We
used the green paint on the leaves
(photo #7a) and the red on the rose
petals (photo #7b).
7a.
7.
7b.
mp
with the
St a s t n ! paint
cosmetic sponge,
ge
g
u
be sure that the
S
When you apply
paint only gets

on the raised
areas. If any
paint drips in
the cracks, use
a cotton swab to
remove it.
8.
9.
8. Press the foam stamp

firmly to wall (photo #8). When
you release the stamp, the two
paint colors will have left an
impression.
9. Determine the basic placement for the roses (i.e., how far apart you want to
space them). Re-apply paint to the stamp and stamp more roses on the
wall (photo #9).
[page 48]
10.
10. After you have stamped

several roses on the wall, begin to
create floating layers by continuing
to make subsequent impressions
without re-applying the paint (photo
#10). Depending on the effect you
want, you can get up to 4 stampings
from one application of paint.
11. Allow the paint to dry (about an
hour, or less). Apply polyurethane
varnish in the desired finish to seal
your design.
Thats it! The result is soft, sweet, and feminine...and the multiple
stampings in step #10 add highlights and depth.
Marneys Memo
While this project used a background stamp to
create a splash of layered roses, its easy
to visualize how the project can be simplified
to only use the large rose stamp. The design
shown here (right) uses dynamic,
whimsical colors with the stamp and creates
a simplistic hand painted look.
A large foam stamp such as the rose we used
in this project is also great for creating a border,
like the one shown here (right). This is a
great idea if youd like to add a stamping touch
to a room but dont want to do the entire wall.
Use the rose foam stamp on its

own creates a simple, eye-catching
design.
Create an accent border

with a single stamp.
Or consider adding a stamped border to furniture...

try stamping headboards, storage chests, chair backs, desk tops, shelf linings,
table legs, counter tops, floor perimeters, picture and mirror frames, and more!
[page 49]
Proj
Projee ct 7:
Natur
es
atures
Shado
wed
Shadow
Impr
es
sions
mpres
essions
If subtle, understated
designs are your style,
then youll love this quick
and easy project!
This design makes use
of a shadow block stamp
Soft, sweeping shadow blocks and butterflies soothe the
to create textured blocks
eye to create a comforting atmosphere.
with varying shadows and
highlights. Throw in
special chalk-like inks and a glazing technique,
and the result sets a soothing, dreamy atmosphere
in any room.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
Hazelnut paint by BEHR, satin finish

Clockwise from lower left:
A shadow block stamp (Ours is by
#B35 by Great Impressions,
Hero Arts; see photo at right for product
Background Template
number and link)
H2190 by Hero Arts, Fresco
Small butterfly stamp (Ours is from Great
ink pad in Tuscan Earth (available
Impressions; see photo at right for product at AddictedToRubberStamps.com) ,
light brown pigment ink.
number)
Brown chalk finish dye ink pad (We used
a Fresco Chalk-Finish ink pad in Tuscan
Earth (available at AddictedToRubberStamps.com.)
Light brown pigment ink (We used an ink pad from the Tuscany
ColorBox Petal Point Option Pad by Clearsnap, but any light brown
pigment ink is fine)
Glazing medium (We like BEHR Faux Glazing Liquid)
A wide, long-bristled soft paint brush (often called a dragging
brush or faux finish brush)
Polyurethane varnish and paint brush
[page 50]
THE STEPS:
3.
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Hazelnut paint.

Apply a second coat if needed for adequate
coverage or desired depth of color. Allow to dry.
3. Dip the very tips of the bristles of the dragging
brush into the glazing medium. Tap the bristles
on a paper towel or piece of newspaper to remove
as much glaze as possible. Then drag the brush
across the wall in randomly-spaced horizontal straight
lines of varied lengths (photo #3). When the
glaze dries, it leaves dimensional streaks that
add interest to the background. Allow to dry fully.
Its entirely up to you to decide how
p
many streaks you want to create with
m
S t a s t n !the glaze. You may want a highly
ge
textured finish, in which case you can
Sug
make multiple draggings across the
wall in varying directions. Or you may
choose a more subtle approach, as
we did for this project. We created
only a few streaks in selected spots.
4. Apply the Fresco ink to the shadow block
stamp (photo #4).
4.
5.
6.
5. Press the stamp firmly on the wall (photo #5).

Re-ink the stamp and continue to stamp the
shadow blocks in a random arrangement. You
can create a sparse arrangement by stamping
it a limited number of times, or you can stamp it multiple times more closely
together for a more patterned effect.
6. Apply light brown pigment ink to the small butterfly and stamp the butterfly in
the middle of a shadow block arrangement (photo #6).
[page 51]
7. Re-ink the butterfly and continue

stamping, until it has been stamped
in each arrangement of shadow
blocks (photos #7 and #7a).
7.
Because it is pigment
m p !ink, the butterfly image

a
t
S
s t n will be gentle and
e
g
soft. For an even
Sug
more faded look, dont

re-ink the butterfly stamp
after you stamp it on
the wall. Instead, continue
to use the stamp until the
ink is completely gone. Each
subsequent butterfly impression
will be lighter and lighter for
a faded effect.
7a.
8. Allow the stamped images to dry for 24 hours. Do not apply varnish before
then, as the pigment ink will smear.
And thats how easy it is to create this subtle shadowed finish.
Sit n Summarize
Dragging, the painting method we used for the base coat in this project, is the
technique on which many more advanced faux finish techniques are based,
including the following:
- Faux wood washing
- Basket weave
- Faux oak
- Faux beech
- Faux pine
- Faux malachite
- Faux tortoiseshell - Combing

- Floating marble -Two-tone
- Faux moire
strie
[page 52]
Marneys Memo
Okay, I have to warn you....now that youve been introduced to to shadow

stamps, you are going to get addicted!
Shadow stamps were first introduced by Hero Arts and, though imitations have
surfaced, Hero Arts continues to have the best selection. Browse through the many
pages in their shadow stamp inventory and then check out my favorite shadow
stamping techniques, below. I tell you, the love affair has just begun....
- Think of a shadow stamp as a way to frame an image, in order to draw the
eye to that image. Shadow stamps are most effective when the image being
framed is relatively the same size as the shadow stamp.
There are lots of interesting ways to use individual shadow stamps, which
are stamps with just one shadowed block as opposed to multiple blocks.
Try stamping the shadow block in a light color and then stamp images that
are slightly smaller right in the middle of the shadow block.
Craft stores often have assorted small stamps sold at great markdowns mini flowers, leaves, herbs, animals, smiley faces, butterflies, fish, etc. While
just randomly stamping a hod podge of such stamps on the wall could look
cluttered and ununified, if you frame each image with a shadow stamp, the
entire wall will look crisp and clean.
- Whenever you use a shadow stamp, you can get different grades of
color by using the second or third stamped impression. The ink will
get lighter with each subsequent stamping.
- In this project we used Fresco Chalk-Finish inks. For a slightly more
saturated look that still captures the muted subtlety of the shadows,
I recommend the Shadow Inks that Hero Arts makes specifically
for use with these stamps.
[page 53]
(Marneys
Memo, continued)
These dye inks create light washes, coming in colors such as soft leaf, soft
rose, soft stone, and soft wheat. I also recommend experimenting with
metallic inks, such as Encore Ultimate Metallic inks by Tsukineko. Soft,
shimmering metallic shadows are rather magical!
- Apply ink to only the frame of the shadows to create a soft edging to
surround a design, rather than a solid shadow behind it. To do this, dab or
brush only the edges of the shadow stamp against the ink pad.
- Layer multiple shadow stamps upon one another. Try stamping a small
shadow inside a lager shadow. Or use a background pattern (such as the
one we used in this project) and stamp it twice, so that the two configurations
of shadows overlap.
You can make a shadowed background as intricate as you like! Just be sure
to use a pale color of ink so that the surface isnt overwhelmed by color and
pattern.
- You can use shadow stamps by themselves to create
geometric patterns on your wall, without even layering
another design on top of them.
For example, check out this stamp (right). Stamping with
this stamp allows you to get perfectly-spaced squares
without having to deal with rulers or masking tape.
You cant beat that! Stamp this stamp repeatedly to
create any of the following:
Background of
Twelve Solids #G2057
from Hero Arts.
- a border
- a frame around an entire wall
- vertical columns of colored squares
- horizontal rows of squares in a single color
- colored squares that even fill an entire wall
[page 54]
(Marneys
Memo, continued)
- Also, consider inking the different squares of background stamps, such

as the one shown on the prior page, in different colors. Place pieces of
paper over all the blocks on the stamp, except for one, and then press the
ink pad on the stamp. The papers act as a mask, allowing ink to be
directed only to the desired square. Switch out your mask papers, and
repeat.
When inking individual blocks on a single stamp, you can create a noticeable
pattern in the colors, or just create random blocks of various colors to
cascade across your wall.
- You can create a negative image on a shadow stamp for a really
wonderful effect. Its easier than you would think...just ink the shadow
well and then press an un-inked stamp of any design directly on the rubber
side ofthe inked shadow stamp.
This removes the ink to create a negative image on the shadow stamp.
So, if you stamp a small rose on the rubber side of the inked shadow
stamp, what remains is an un-inked area on the shadow stamp, in the
shape of the rose.
Then, use the shadow stamp itself on the wall. The negative image will
show through the shadow, revealing the color of your base coat of paint
beneath.
- A variation on the negative image technique that I just mentioned is to
take a pointed tool (such as a pencil, dried-out pen, toothpick or the end
of a paint brush) and draw your own design on a shadow stamp, after
you have inked it.
Try drawing swirls, lines, spirals, squares, and other shapes. The negative
of what you draw will show when you stamp it on your surface.
I told you it was addicting! Now if youll excuse me, I think my shadow
stamps are calling me....
[page 55]
Proje
ct 8:
roject
Pearly PPaint
aint
ainteed
Motif
After you stamp an image on a
surface, you can color it in using a
variety of art supplies, including
markers, colored pencils, and paint.
This project introduces you to the
wonderful world of Radiant Pearls.
You apply them with a paint brush,
but they have a look unlike any
paint youll see! They come in
luscious vibrant colors and dry
to a beautiful satin pearl sheen
(see closeup, right).
Enliven a repetitive design with Radiant Pearls!
The vivid,
pearlescent
sheen of
Radiant
Pearls!
If youre repeating a stamp across your wall,

adding Radiant Pearls is a great way to punch
up the design and add interest to a repeating motif.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
Clear Pool paint by BEHR, satin finish

Stamp to repeat across the wall, with
areas to be colored in (Ours is a
whimsical dinette set image from
Graphistamp; see photo for product
number)
Black permanent ink (We used
Archival Ink by Ranger in Jet Black)
Radiant Pearls in desired colors (We
used Sour Lemon, Wild Orchid
Petal Pink, and Christmas Rose)
One paint brush per color
Optional: polyurethane varnish and
paint brush
Clockwise from bottom left: Jet Black

Archival Ink, Stamp from Graphistamps
Kathy Bubaris-Tortora line #51080,
Radiant Pearls, paint brushes.
[page 56]
THE STEPS:
1. Prepare and prime wall, as necessary.
4.
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Clear

Pool paint. Apply a second coat if needed for
Allow to dry.
3. Ink stamp thoroughly with Jet Black Archival
ink.
4. After determining the design placement you would like to create on the wall,
press the stamp firmly onto the wall to create the first image. Continue to stamp
the image until you have covered the area to your liking (photo #4). Be sure to
re-ink the stamp before each new stamping in order to get a good, solid
image.
5. Determine which color of Radiant Pearls will be used for which area of the
stamped image.
many stamps, the image on the back
m p !On
a
t
the mounting block is colored in, to give
S
s t n of
e
g
you
some guidance for the ways in which
Sug
you can use color with the stamp (photo #5).
5.
Feel free to use this as a helpful tool, or to

come up with your own coloring ideas.
6. Next, apply the Radiant Pearls with a paint brush. Follow our progression in
photos #6-#6d, on the following page. Use only one paint brush per color. Do not
mix Radiant Pearls with water. You can work directly from the bottle, or place a
bit of each color on a plastic paint palette.
m p !If you dont have a plastic paint palette, you can make one
a
t
S
out of a CD that you dont want (you know, the free
s t n yourself
e
g
ones
youre
always getting in the mail). Dont worry about
Sug
wasting Radiant Pearls, because they never dry on plastic.
They only dry on porous surfaces.
[page 57]
6.
6c.
6a.
6b.
6d.
mp
S t a s t n !your paint brush. Youll be surprised at how little you need. The
texture, when wet, is a bit gelatinous. By simply moving a very
ge
small amount of liquid with your paint brush, youll be able to
Su g
When you first begin painting, use very little Radiant Pearls on
cover your area quickly and evenly. With just a bit of practice,
youll master it!
7. Continue to paint in the rest of the images with Radiant Pearls, until the entire
wall is complete.
8. Since you used permanent ink, it is not necessary to apply a polyurethane
varnish. Radiant Pearls will dry beautifully on a painted sheetrock or wood surface
in about 12 hours, and will retain their color and form. Leaving such a wall unvarnished is a nice effect, because the Radiant Pearls have a bit of texture, which
provides visual and tactile interest. However, you may want to apply a varnish over
the Radiant Pearls if it is in an area where it may be stained easily.
Thats all there is to it!
[page 58]
Marneys Memo
While were working with Radiant Pearls, I thought Id give you some of my
favorite ways to use this really fantastic art medium. If your interest is piqued
(and I bet it will be!), experiment with these methods in your home dcor !
- Add even more shimmer to Radiant Pearls by dipping a paint brush loaded
with Radiant Pearls into Pearl Ex powders from Jacquard, which are great
pearlescent powders that can be added to any liquid medium for special
effects (we introduce Pearl Ex in project 11, Pearl Pigment Roses).
- Another great product to mix with Radiant Pearls is 3-D Crystal
Lacquer from Sakura Hobby Craft. Apply 3-D Crystal Lacquer over the
Radiant Pearls and the image will become three-dimensional and take on
a glowing effect. Fantastic!
- You can apply Radiant Pearls directly to the rubber on your rubber stamp
if you want to apply color to the positive (raised) part of the stamp
(whereas in this project, you applied color to the negative area). This
is best done with a stipple brush (a brush with long, coarse, tightlypacked bristles.) Rub the brush in Radiant Pearls to get it loaded, and
bounce the brush rapidly on area on the rubber stamp you want to color.
To keep the image detail intact, use a very thin layer of Radiant Pearls.
You can add as many colors as you would like, blending them together
with the stipple brush. Press the stamp to your surface and the positive
part of the stamp will be transferred with the awesome Radiant Pearls.
And clean-up is simple, too -- just wipe off the stamp with a wet cloth.
- An advanced technique is to use bleach with Radiant Pearls to create
sophisticated highlights and shadows. Use a synthetic brush (NOT
a natural brush) to paint bleach on areas you want to receive highlights.
After the bleach dries (2 minutes or so), paint over the area again with
Radiant Pearls. You can dilute the bleach to different strengths to vary
how light or dark the bleached areas are.
Have fun!!!
[page 59]
Proje
ct 9:
Project
Heat-Embos
se
d
Heat-Embosse
sed
Bronze Tr
ees
Trees
Embossing refers to any
technique used to raise an
image above the printing
surface. Were going to
Bronze embossed trees majestically stand out on a deep
be introducing several
violet background, creating a sophisticated backdrop for
embossing techniques,
formal dining rooms, living rooms, and bedrooms.
and were starting with the
one that is most commonly used with rubber stamps: heat embossing (also
called thermal embossing).
Heat embossing involves melting embossing powders using an embossing (heat)
gun, which blows very hot air out of a pointed nozzle. Heat guns cost $15 and up,
with models that have special features costing about $30. Embossing powder
sticks to pigment ink, which means you make the powder form the shape of the
stamp by stamping it with pigment ink and then pour embossing powder over it.
Just follow our easy steps, below!
This technique will result in a highly elegant custom-embossed surface, perfect
for absolutely any room!
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
Muted Plum paint by BEHR, satin finish

Tree stamp (Ours is from PSX; ; see
photo for product number)
Bronze embossing powder (We used
Detail Brass Embossing Powder by
PSX)
Fan paint brush (see lower right photo)
Dark brown pigment ink (We used an ink
pad from the Tuscany ColorBox Petal
Point Option Pad by Clearsnap, but any
dark brown pigment ink is fine)
Embossing (heat) gun

Stamp #K-1457 from PSX, heat
gun, Detail Brass embossing
powder, dark brown pigment ink.
A fan brush.
[page 60]
THE STEPS:
3.

2. Paint walls with even coverage of Muted
Plum paint. Apply a second coat if needed for
Allow to dry.
3. Apply dark brown pigment ink to the stamp
(photo #3). The stamp we used is very
intricate, and so it is especially important to
ink thoroughly, so that all the little lines have
been covered with ink.
4.
4. Firmly press the stamp to the wall (photo #4).

Use two hands to add pressure to the stamp.
5. Dip the bristles of the fan brush into the jar
of detail embossing powder (photo #5). With
such an intricate stamp as this one, its
important to use detail embossing powder,
as opposed to regular embossing powder.
5.
6. Lightly brush the fan brush over the stamped

image. The powder will stick to the ink, so the
powder will be left in the shape of the stamp.
You can blow on the image to
m p !help remove unnecessary embossing

a
t
Dont worry, the powder
S
s t n powder.
e
g
will stick to the ink so you wont be
Sug
displacing any of the necessary
6.
powder. You also can use a separate

paint brush to wipe away powder
from outside the image, but do not
wipe the paint brush over the image.
Blowing on the powdered image will
not displace the powder, but brushing
over it will!
[page 61]
7. After the inked areas are sufficiently covered in

powder and you have cleaned up the areas that
do not need the powder, you will use your heat gun
to melt the powder. A heat gun is a tool that forces
very hot air through a small nozzle. It is kind of
like a hair dryer, except it is designed to concentrate
the air in a small area (a hair dryer, for example, will
blow the powder away before it melts it). Turn
the heat gun on and let it warm up for about 10
seconds. Then bring it to the image, holding it
about 4 away from the surface of the wall
(photo #7). Hold the gun in one spot until you
see the powder melt. Then, move on to the next
area and allow the powder to melt. Move slowly
through the whole image until the powder has melted
on the entire image.
7.
7a.
unmelted powder
melted
raised design
With most powders, it will be quite obvious as to where the powder

m p !has
a
t
and where it has not. Some powders are more subtle
S
t n and melted
s
e
you have to catch the embossed areas at a specific angle to
g
Sug
see the difference between embossed and powdered areas. With a
metallic powder like this brass powder, the areas that have
melted appear very shiny and dramatically stand out (photo #7a).
8. Repeat this process for the next image: ink the stamp, stamp the wall, apply
embossing powder to the design, and then emboss with the heat gun. Continue
until the entire surface is completed to your liking. To keep the images embossed
to the touch, do not cover with a varnish.
Ancient Wisdom
The person said to be the first to commercialize the making of rubber stamps was
J.F.W. Dorman, who learned the process from an inventor and then started his own
business in Baltimore in 1865. He made his stamps in the middle of the night, with
his wife standing guard, in order to keep the process a secret.
[page 62]
Sit n Summarize
Embossing powders come in all varieties. For example:
- PSX manufacturers embossing powders that have glitter and tweed mixed
in with the powder (called Tinsel and Tapestry lines, respectively).
- Ranger has an entire line of gold embossing powders, Ancient Golds,
that includes both translucent (see-through) and opaque (solid) varieties for
every gold finish you could imagine.
- Judikins has an extensive line of powders that melt to a lustrous, gem-like
finish, in such varieties as Jade, Lapis Lazuli, and Malachite.
- Clear embossing powder can be used over colored ink. This produces a
subtle, professional-looking embossed image. If the stamp is very intricate
or detailed, use Detail Clear embossing powder.
- Some clear embossing powders have subtle additives in them, such as
Judikins Diamond embossing powder, which has a small amount of white
glitter in it thatmelts clear with a hint of sparkle.
- Interference embossing powders, such as Embossing Pearls by Ranger,
create a two-tone effect. When viewed at one angle, they are clear and
show only the color of the ink underneath. But when viewed at another angle,
they mix with the underlying ink color to create dramatic and luminescent
prism-like effects.
- Try Rangers Embossing Antiquities, that offer texturized faux finishes.
Examples include Verdigris, Cement, Ochre, and Terra Cotta.
- Another interesting Ranger product are the Embossing Puffs embossing
powders. They puff up high for a furry, flocked look.
[page 63]
Marneys Memo
I guess by now you get the picture that there are lots of different options when it
comes to embossing powders. And there are lots of ways to use them besides
as wall dcor, too. Maybe one of these ideas is just what your home needs...
- Emboss leaf images on a paper lampshade
- Emboss a collage of Roman numerals around the edge of a dining table
- Emboss Asian motifs paper window shades
- Emboss a scroll design on table legs
- Emboss teddy bears across a toy chest in a childs room
- Emboss a vase with flowers on the back of wooden chairs in your breakfast room
- Emboss postcards and travel images on thick paper and use as placemats or a
paper tablecloth
- Emboss the perimeter of kitchen cabinets with spice images
- Emboss roses on concentric circles on a round breakfast table
- Emboss inspiring words on a bedroom dresser or vanity
- Emboss medallion or fleur-de-lis motifs on a china cabinet or hutch
- Emboss a row of flowers around a wall at chair rail height
- Emboss images of Victorian women in a powder room
- Emboss map images on richly colored papers and then wrap office items with the
paper - pencil cans, storage boxes, file trays, etc.
[page 64]
Proje
ct 10: Dry-Embos
se
dR
oses
roject
Dry-Embosse
sed
Roses
Dry-embossed papers are used to create a mixed media effect for a border design.
While not technically a stamping process, we wanted to introduce you to another

way to emboss images so that they appear raised from this surface. This technique
is called dry embossing, or stencil embossing.
Dry embossing is done on paper, producing the look that youve seen in embossed
fine stationery or embossed wallpaper. It involves lightly punching a design on the
underside of a piece of paper, so that it is raised on the front side of the paper.
The punching on the underside is done by tracing
a stencil using a tool called a stylus (see photo,
right), which is a pointed tool with a very small ball
at the end of it. While any stencil could work if you
manipulated with care, brass stencils are
recommended for embossing, because they are
very durable.
Youll need a light source as you trace. For best results,
you should use a light box (see photo, right) but you
also can use a sunny window.
A stylus.
A light box.
[page 65]
In this project, weve combined pieces of dry embossed

papers with traditional foam stamping to create a
unique and classy motif to be used as an interesting
border over a wall that has been painted with a dragging
faux finish.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F

Clear Pool and Holland Blue paint by
scissors, Krylon Silver Leafing
BEHR, satin finish
Pen, white acrylic paint, light
Glazing medium (We like BEHR Faux
box, Nicole Stencils #1008,
Glazing Liquid)
decorative scissors, rose foam
A wide, long-bristled soft paint brush (often
stamp by Chunky Stamps
from Duncan.
called a dragging brush or faux finish brush)
A light source (A light box is preferred for
best results, but you also can use a window
with light shining through. Our light box is
by Nicole Stencil Classics, a Sbars
Company, available at A.C. Moore. )
Stylus
Brass stencil in rose pattern (Ours is by
Nicole Stencil Classics, available at
A.C. Moore; see photo at right for product
number.)
Masking tape
Pieces of white card stock (We cut pieces
from large sheets of card stock, each piece
approximately 2x4)
Rose stamp (Ours is from the Chunky Stamps
line by Duncan)
White acrylic craft paint
Cosmetic sponge
Decorative scissors (Available at craft stores)
Krylon Silver Leafing Pen
High-quality glue or paste (We used YES! glue by Hoftcraft. We also
recommend Perfect Paper Adhesive by USArtQuest.)
[page 66]
THE STEPS:
1. Prepare and prime walls, as necessary. Prepare a mixture of glazing medium
and Holland Blue paint, according to the ratio given in the instructions on the glazing
product.
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Clear Pool paint. Apply a second coat if
needed for adequate coverage or desired depth of color.
3.
3. While the Clear Pool paint is still wet, use the

dragging brush to apply the mixture of glazing
medium and Holland Blue over the Clear Pool
Paint. Dip the dragging brush in the glaze mixture
and then drag the paint brush straight down the wall,
starting at the top. The brush will leave long, thin
streak marks of the darker blue, blended together
with the lighter blue (photo #3). This creates a
wet-on-wet streaked look. Continue until you have
used the dragging brush on the entire wall, to create
the desired effect.
You can touch up areas with the dragging
brush to add a bit more of the dark blue

mp
S t a s t n ! color to specific spots. But dont over-blend
ge
the colors. The beauty of this finish is the
Su g
dark streaks that are clearly defined from
the lighter undercoat. Dont worry if the
dragging lines arent straight or if there
are parts where the streaks arent
perfectly blended. Those imperfections
add to the character of the finish.
4.
4. While you are allowing the paint to dry, you can work
on dry embossing the pieces of card stock. Using
decorative scissors, cut a piece of card stock to the
desired size (photo #4). Ours were about 2x4. The
decorative scissors create a fancy border around the paper.
[page 67]
5.
5. Use masking tape to tape the brass stencil to one

side of the paper (photo #5). Keep in mind that this
will be the the underside of the finished embossed
paper.
p Rubber stamping stores and Web sites sell

m
a
S t s t n !low-tack masking tape that is useful when
taping stencils to paper because it is easily
ge
g
u
removable and wont leave any marks on
S
the paper. If you dont have low-tack masking

tape on hand, just press regular masking tape
to your clothing a few times to remove some
of the tackiness.
6. Turn the paper over and place it on the light board

(photo #6). If you like, you can use masking tape to
tape it to the lightboard. The shape of the stencil
should show through so you can see it clearly. An
alternative is to tape the paper to a sunny window
with the stencil directly next to the window. The stencil
will show through to the side of the paper facing
toward you.
7. Use the stylus to trace around the stencil (photo
#7) to press the paper around the edges of the
illuminated openings. Because the brass stencil is
quite durable, it will not buckle as you apply pressure
to the stencils edges.
A traditional stylus (photo #7a) has two ball
burnishers, one on either end. One has a larger ball
and one has a smaller ball. The smaller ball is
required for working with very intricate stencils with
small spaces between the lines of the design. The
two points produce different looks, so just experiment
to see which look you prefer.
6.
7.
7a.
[page 68]
m p !you find the perfect amount of pressure

a
t
S
s t n with which to move the stylus. If you
e
g
press too hard, you will puncture the paper,
Sug
It might take a bit of practicing until
and if you press too gently, you will not

create a defined design. The amount of
pressure required varies from paper to
paper. Therefore, you should practice a bit
with the same paper you are using for
your project.
8. After you have traced around the entire design, turn the paper over and remove
the stencil from the paper to reveal the embossed image (photo #8). Repeat this
process for all of the papers you will be using in your design.
9. Use the Silver Leafing pen to outline the decorative edges of each pieces with a
silver border (photo #9). Wait for the silver leaf to dry before handling the papers.
8.
9.
[page 69]
10.
10. After making sure that both the

paint finish on the wall and the silver
leafing around the papers are
completely dry, use high-quality paper
glue to affix the papers directly to the
wall in the desired design (photo #10).
Make sure that all the corners are
pressed down and that there are no
wrinkles or bubbles in the paper.
Provided that they are glued well, the
papers will maintain the embossed
shape indefinitely, adding an effective
tactile element to the wall.
11. Repeat until all the papers are glued

to the wall to your liking. You will be
stamping roses in between each paper,
so be sure not to glue the papers too
close to one another.
12. Use a cosmetic sponge to dab white
acrylic craft paint onto the rose foam stamp (photo #12).
13. Press the rose foam stamp to the wall between two pieces of embossed paper
(photo #13).
12.
13.
[page 70]
14. Re-apply paint to the stamp and continue to stamp roses in between each
embossed paper.
15. Use the Krylon Silver Leafing pen to add decorative dots around the design
(photo #15).
Thats it! No final varnish is needed.
15.
Ancient Wisdom
The first patent process for embossing paper was undertaken in England in 1796.
However, decorative embossed paper was not seen for quite a few more years.
The first decorative embossed papers are thought to be those manufactured as
table clothes and paper hangings, produced by Montgolfier in 1829.
[page 71]
Marneys Memo
If you are interested in experimenting with dry embossing, your first stop should be
the Web site for Dreamweaver Stencils. They manufacturer brass stencils that are
intended for dry embossing projects, and the selection is quite inspiring.
Dreamweaver also produces a line of embossing pastes, which we will be using in
the next project, Paste-Embossed Pretty Purses.
In the meantime, take a look at a few stencils and how
they could be used in home dcor :
- Emboss this geisha design (right) on small
papers and intersperse them with Japanese
papers folded accordion style into simple
fans and Japanese characters stamped on
the wall.
- Emboss this checkerboard (right) on pieces
of paper and then stamp images in each square.
Repeat the images directly on the wall in soft,
faded inks.
- Use this stencil to emboss a bouquet on
several pieces of very thin paper and glue then
to the wall.
#LL300 from
Dreamweaver
Stencils
#LJ811 from
Dreamweaver
Stencils
#L522 from
Lasting
Impressions.
Then use the stencil to apply paint in the same

design, placing each painted design between
two embossed papers.
Top it off with some small stamped flowers and you
have a fascinating mixed media garden on your wall!
[page 72]
(Marneys
Memo, continued)
- A sophisticated variation of the above suggestion is to emboss on vellum,

a white or colored paper that you can see through - often found in formal
invitations.
Embossed vellum comes out beautifully, but the weight of the paper is a bit
different from regular paper, so just practice the dry embossing on a piece of
scrap vellum before using final cut pieces.
Also, when adhering vellum to the wall, do not use glue, because the glue
lines will show through. Instead, use a strong double-sided adhesive tape,
such as Terrifically Tacky Tape by Art Accents.
- For a romantic look, consider layering several pieces of embossed vellum
in different pastel shades amongst floral images stamped directly on the wall.
Or emboss long strips of vellum and then weave the strips together (like
basket weaving at camp, when you were young) for a very textured look.
- You also can add color to a dry-embossed image by turning the paper over
after you have embossed the design with the stylus, and leaving the stencil in
place to apply color.
Here are some of my favorite ways to add color to dry-embossed designs.
(Note: all the tools mentioned here can be found on the
Stencil With Style Accessories page.)
1. Use your finger or a finger dauber (right) to rub some
ink from a stamping ink pad that you then apply to the
embossed design.
A finger dauber has a small spongy tip that slips on your
index finger. It makes this technique SUPER easy!
A finger dauber.
(Available at craft
and stamping stores,
and online at
Stencil With Style.)
You can simply apply one color, or apply multiple colors

for a painted effect. If you are applying multiple colors
of ink, start with the lighter colors you want to add, and
then work to darker as you go.
[page 73]
(Marneys
Memo, continued)
A no-fail trick is to start with lighter colors at the edge of

the stencil and work in. This gives you an attractive
highlighted frame.
When you use the finger dauber, you can either tap
color on to the embossed area, or lightly rub it on
2. Use pastels or chalks with a stencil brush (a small
brush with very coarse and tightly packed bristles;
see photo, right) to apply color the stencil.
Colored chalks are very inexpensive, and do as
good a job as artists pastels. Chalks are an
easy medium to work with, but there are a few
tips to keep in mind.
First, be careful not to let the chalk dust build up
around, or sneak under, the bridge of the stencil as
you work. Blow on the area or use a large soft artists
paint brush brush to remove the excess chalk dust as
you work.
A stencil brush.
(Available at craft
and stamping stores,
and online at
Stencil With Style.)
Also, if you use chalk, you need to apply a finish to the paper
so that the chalk doesnt just rub off. You can spray
the paper with a craft finishing spray or with regular
hairspray to seal the chalks, but still maintain the
embossed quality.
Another effect is to top a chalk-colored embossed design with translucent
embossing paste by Dreamweaver Stencils, which well be introducing in
project 9, Paste-Embossed Pretty Purses.
3. Use colored pencils, watercolors, watercolor pencils,
or crayons in the same ways mentioned above.
[page 74]
Pr
oje
ct 11: PPast
ast
e-Embos
se
d Pr
etty Purses
Proje
oject
aste-Embos
e-Embosse
sed
Pretty
This project is another twist on the embossing
process. Like project 10, Dry Embossed
Roses, this project uses a brass stencil as the
basis for an embossed image. In this case,
however, you will emboss with a special paste
to create a translucent raised image.
Well combine that image with stamping and
embellishments to create a sweet and fun
design that could be used in a whimsical
romantic bedroom or in a childs room. The
design works for a young girl, as well as
a teenager. It also would be right at home in
any room that needs a fun, feminine spark perhaps a laundry room, breakfast nook, or
hobby room.
Fun and frilly, this design creates a unique,

free-spirited backdrop for lighthearted
casual rooms.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
Ballet paint by BEHR, satin finish

Pink , purple, and blue acrylic craft paints
(We used Accent paints in Light
Fuschia, Hyacinth, and Larkspur Blue,
all available at A.C. Moore and Michaels.)
Purse brass stencil (Ours is from
Lasting Impressions; see photo for product
number.)
Translucent Embossing Paste by Dreamweaver
Purse foam stamp (Ours is from the Dress
Up collection from Chunky Stamps line by
Duncan)
Liquid Pearls Dimensional Pearlescent Glue
by Ranger in Petal Pink and Lavender
Lace
Stickles Glitter Glue by Ranger in Crystal and
Lavender
Three cosmetic sponges
Plastic knife or spatula
Masking tape
Clockwise from bottom left,

Stencil #L9053 from Lasting
Impressions, cosmetic sponges,
plastic knife, Liquid Pearls and
Stickles, acrylic paints,
Translucent Embossing Paste by
Dreamweaver , Dress Up
collection from Chunky Stamps
[page 75]
THE STEPS:
3.
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Ballet paint.

Apply a second coat if needed for adequate coverage
or desired depth of color. Allow the paint to dry
thoroughly.
3. Plan out the grid that youll be making on the
wall (shown in photo #3). You will use the cosmetic
sponges as stamps, themselves. The wide end of
the sponge is in the shape of the square, and you
can dip it in paint and then use it to stamp squares
on the wall. Youll be creating a grid with the squares,
alternating between colors. Decide how large
you want the openings in the grid to be (they
should generally be about the size of the purse
stamp and stencil), and how far apart you want
the stamped squares to be.
4. Pour a bit of the Light Fuschia and Hyacinth
paints on a paper plate. Dip one sponge end into
the Light Fuschia paint and then stamp the square
on the wall (photo #4).
5. Dip the other sponge end in Hyacinth paint and
stamp the square next to the Light Fuschia square
(photo #5). Continue alternating colors of squares
until you have made a horizontal line across the entire
wall (photo #5a).
6. Next, repeat this process to stamp squares in
vertical lines that intersect the horizontal lines
(photo #6). Allow the grid to dry completely.
4.
5.
5a.
6.
[page 76]
7. The next step is to create the paste-embossed

purse images. Dreamweaver makes opaque
and translucent embossing pastes that are
spread over a stencil and then dry to a raised,
embossed finish. In this project, we use the
translucent embossing paste, which dries to
create a see-through effect. When it is dry, the
image will be three-dimensional, but you
can see the color of the base coat of paint
beneath it. Position the stencil in the center of
one of the grid openings on the wall. Use masking
tape to adhere it to the wall to help you keep very
still as you work (photo #7).
7.
Translucent embossing paste can be used on its own, as we do in
m p !this project, or it can be mixed with color or other additives. You can
a
t
S
s t n add glitter, liquid ink (re-inkers used for ink pads work well), acrylic,
e
g
paints, and Pearl Ex powders to add color and shimmer to the
Sug
paste. These products offer lots of flexibility to create just about any
embossing material that you could imagine.
8. Dip your plastic knife or spatula into the jar of
embossing paste and then apply the paste across
the surface of the stencil. Smooth it over the
stencils cut out areas as if you were icing a cake
(photo #8). Use a light touch to scrape off the
excess paste, smoothing as you go.
p If you are using a plastic knife for this

m
a
S t s t n ! process, use the serrated end of
the knife to apply the paste, and then
ge
g
u
use the blunt flat back of the knife to
S
8.
9.
scrape off the excess paste.
9. Remove the stencil immediately, being very

careful not to disrupt the paste as you remove
the stencil (photo #9). After the stencil is removed,
the paste is left in the shape of the stencil (photo #9a).
At this point, the translucent paint is white, but it will
dry clear.
9a.
[page 77]
10. Repeat this process to add an embossed purse

in every other opening in the grid (photo #10).
12.
11. Clean the stencil and knife immediately by soaking

it in warm water and scrubbing with a rubber stamp
scrubber, nail brush, or vegetable brush.
12. Allow to dry thoroughly (about 45-60 minutes).
Once the paste is dry, it is translucent and
completely hard to the touch (photo #12). If you
added color to the paste, at this time the color will show.
You also can provide color after the paste
p
m
a
S t st n ! is dry. Simply reposition the stencil over
the dried embossed paste and add color
ge
g
u
of choice - such as Radiant Pearls, stamping
S
13.
ink, or paint.
13. Use a cosmetic sponge to apply blue paint to the

purse foam stamp, and then stamp the image in the
empty openings in the grid. We alternated the angle
of the purse in each opening (photo #13). Allow
the paint to dry.
14. After the foam stamped images are totally dry, you get to have fun applying
dimensional embellishments to the design. We used unique dimensional glues
called Liquid Pearls and Stickles to add sparkle and pearlescence to both the
translucent paste-embossed and paint stamped images. Follow our progression
of the embellishing process in photos #14-14e, below.
14.
14a.
Fill in the dots on the purses,

alternating with pink.....
...and lavender Liquid Pearls.
14b.
[page 78]
14c.
14d.
Outline the
border of the
purse with
Crystal
Stickles.
14e.
Outline the lines
in the purse with
Lavender
Stickles.
15. Allow the Liquid Pearls and Stickles embellishments to dry. No varnish is
needed for this project.
Now, how much fun was THAT???
Marneys Memo
In this project, you used a cosmetic sponge not as an applicator, but as an actual
stamp. Keep in mind that anything that you can hold and to which you can apply
paint or ink can be used as a stamp. Your home is probably filled with stamps and
you dont even know it!
Take a look at some of the things Ive used as stamps....and this is just the
beginning!
- Jewelry pieces
- Hard candies
- Rubber bands
- Casette tape boxes
- Pears/apples cut in half
- Bottle caps
- Hair brushes
- Flower buds and petals
- Hair pins and clips
- CDs
- Sewing spools (see right)

- Chunks of swiss cheese
- Crackers with interesting patterns
- Nuts and bolts
A sewing spool can be
used as a stamp to create
- Buttons
a circle with a hollow
- Kitchen sponges
opening.
- Leaves
- Vegetable slices
- Doll faces (the resulting stamped image
is the negative of the face.)
[page 79]
Proje
Projecct 12:
Easy Embos
se
d
Embosse
sed
Vel
vet Sw
ags
elv
Swags
No fabric is more luxurious than velvet,
and it becomes even more sublime when
embossed with elegant images. Just
think of the satisfaction to come from
embossing velvet swags yourself, and
using them for a spectacular fabric
wall treatment.
The proper term for this process should
actually be debossing, because the
design is concave, rather than raised.
The look is achieved by pressing fabric
Stunning embossed velvet swags dress a wall in
on a rubber stamp and then using a
elegant finery.
regular household iron to apply heat to
the back side of the fabric. The heat makes the velvet take on the shape of the
stamp, and as long it is not machine- or hand-washed (dry clean only) the velvet
should hold the design for many years.
While this particular project is best suited for formal rooms, such as dining rooms or
living rooms, you can adapt the color scheme and stamp image to fit with
absolutely any room in your home!
Ancient Wisdom
Single-pile silk velvet is said to have originated in the Middle East in the late 13th
century. It quickly spread to weaving centers in Europe so that by the early 14th
century, velvet was incredibly popular. Developments in weaving technology that
took place in the mid 14th century led to voided velvets (with patterns cut into the
pile). Modern methods for embossing velvet are an effort to reproduce the look of
this special medieval weaving technique.
[page 80]
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
Summer Wind paint by BEHR, satin finish

Rayon or silk velvet fabric (Velvets made
from acetate will not hold a design for more
than a day or two.) Determine ahead of time
how wide and long you want each swag to
be, so you can purchase the appropriate
amount of velvet.
Rubber stamp with a bold, clear design (Ours
is from American Art Stamp; see photo for
product name and number. Many rubber stamps
will not stand the heat of the iron. For best
results, use stamps specially formatted for
ironed fabric embossing, such as those
made by Hot Potatoes.)
Scissors
Iron and ironing Board
Spray bottle with water
Table measure or yardstick
Optional: fabric pencil
THE STEPS:
Clockwise from left: iron,

velvet, scissors, Polynesian
Flower #M6048 from
American Art Stamp.
3.
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Summer Wind

paint. Apply a second coat if needed for adequate
coverage or desired depth of color. Allow the paint
to dry thoroughly.
3. Measure and cut the velvet fabric into
strips of the desired width and length (photo #3).
Ours were 4 wide.
5.
4. Place iron on the highest steam setting and

allow it to preheat.
5. Place the stamp on the ironing board, rubber
side up (photo #5).
[page 81]
Before you begin, consider
6.
want to emboss, mark the top and

bottom of the stamp on the
underside of the fabric. As you
are working, you can align those
lines with the stamp to ensure
that the embossed images are
evenly spaced.
7.
m p ! using a fabric pencil to mark

a
t
S
s t n the placement of the embossed
e
g
images. For each spot that you
Sug
6. Place fabric right side down directly on

the rubber stamp (photo #6). Spritz the
back of the fabric (which is now facing up) with water.
8.
7. Place the iron firmly on the back of the fabric

and hold straight down with firm pressure for
10-15 seconds (photo #7). Hold the iron
straight down; do not move from side to side.
8. Remove the iron and turn over the velvet.
The impression of the stamp will be left in the
fabric (photo #8).
9.
9. Repeat the process to fill the entire swag

with the desired design. In our example, we
alternated the direction of the Polynesian leaf
every third stamping (photo #9). After the
swag is complete, emboss the other swags
in the same manner.
10. Hang the swags on the wall in the desired arrangement by using a staple gun
and stapling the fabric at the top and bottom of the swag. For a more
inconspicuous adhesion, use a fabric glue such as SOBO Premium Craft and
Fabric Glue by Delta. Release a small line of glue along all edges of the swag, and
then place the swag on the wall, smoothing it down as you go.
And thats all....super quick, super easy!
[page 82]
Marneys Memo
I bet you are really surprised at how easy it is to emboss velvet. Now that weve
gotten your imagination going with this fabric wall treatment project, why stop there?
Here are some other great ways to use embossed velvet in your homes dcor :
- Throw pillows
- Slipcovers
- Rugs
- Drapes
- Blankets
- Linings for drawers and cabinets
- Tablecloths
- Placemats
- Table skirts
- Bedding
- Valances
- Covers on drawer pulls
- Box covers
- Chair cushion covers
- Wall hangings
- Lampshades
- Table runners
- Piano covers
- Mantel scarves
- Trash can covers
- Guest towels
- Drapes for fireplace screens
- Pet beds
- Bed skirts
- Blinds
- Picture frames
- Folding screen panels
- Throw blankets
Get the idea? Why do I have the feeling Ive created a monster....
[page 83]
Proje
ct 13:
Project
Pearl Pigment
Roses
This sweet design is made all the
more magical because it changes in
appearance, depending on the angle
at which you view it.
The medium behind the magic is
Pearl Ex. Pearl Ex is a powdered
pigment that can be used in a variety
of ways to add that extra something
to projects. It can be brushed or
rubbed on materials to give them some
colorful shininess, or mixed with paints
Romantic roses bloom in shimmering glory in this
and other liquid media to add shimmer fascinating wall finish.
and sparkly pearlescence. In this
project, we actually paint with Pearl Ex, with help of a clear pigment ink pad.
This dreamy design is perfect for informal rooms with a romantic touch. Because
the Pearl Ex changes its appearance based on the lighting it received, this project
would be especially effective in sunny rooms.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
Prairie Sunset paint by BEHR, satin finish

Rose stamp (Ours is from PSX; see photo
for product number)
Pearl Ex powders from Jacquard in
Duo Green-Yellow, Duo Blue-Green and
Duo Red-Blue
Small artists paint brushes (1 per color,
plus 1-2 extra)
Clear pigment medium, such as
Perfect Medium OR any clear embossing
ink pad (available at all craft stores)
Liquid Pearls inGold Pearl
Spray fixative

clear embossing ink pad, Pearl Ex
powders, Liquid Pearls, Stamp
#D2513 from PSX, paint brushes.
[page 84]
3.
THE STEPS:
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Prairie Sunset
to dry thoroughly.
3. Press the stamp into the clear pigment ink
pad (photo #3). Press it firmly to ensure that the
surface is sufficiently ink.
4.
4. Press the stamp to the wall as if it you were

stamping with regular ink (photo #4). When you
release the stamp, the clear ink will remain
on the wall in the shape of the stamp. While at
a distance, the clear ink appears to be
invisible. When you are close up, you will be able
to make out the shape of the stamped image.
It is colorless but has a bit of a sheen and a
slightly gooey appearance.
5. As soon as possible, apply the Pearl Ex powders
to the stamped image. First, determine which
colors of Pearl Ex you will use for which parts of
the design. We repeated the same color usage for
the entire wall: Duo Green-Yellow on the stem and
leaves, Duo Blue-Green on the left half of the
blossom, and Duo Red-Blue on the right half of
the blossom. Dip a paint brush into the first color
of Pearl Ex and tap it on the rim of the jar to remove
the majority of the powder (photo #5). Youll be left
with just a slight dusting of powder on the brush.
5.
6.
6. With a light touch, brush the powder to the part of the

design that will receive that color (photo #6). Very
little powder is needed. Do not allow powder to get
on parts of the design that will receive other colors.
[page 85]
7. Use a dry paint brush to brush away all excess powder. You can brush vigorously
- the powder will remain adhered to the pigment ink.
mp
S t a s t n !brush throughout this process - try to keep
it clean and dry. After using it on the wall, you
ge
can brush it vigorously against an old towel to
S ug
You will use this brush as your clean up
remove the excess powder so it is clean the

next time you use it to remove powder from
the wall. If necessary, exchange this brush for
another during the process.
8. Repeat these steps to apply the other colors to the design (photos #8 and #8a).
Youll notice that the Duo colors change depending on the light hitting them and in
the angle in which you are viewing them. Use your clean up brush to brush away
excess powder as you go (photo #8b).
8.
8a.
8b.
8. Load the stamp with the clear ink again, and press the stamp to the wall, this
time flipping the direction of the rose.
9. Repeat the previous steps to stamp and color the image until the wall is finished
to your liking. In our example, we created repeated parallel horizontal lines.
[page 86]
mp
S t a s t n ! Pearl Ex, you can save time by stamping the image multiple
times, and then applying the Pearl Ex to several images at once,
ge
one color at a time. The Perfect Medium will stay juicy for a long
S ug
Once you are comfortable with coloring the stamped images with
time, so youll have plenty of time to apply the Pearl Ex. Be sure to
re-ink the stamp with Perfect Medium each time you apply it, and
be careful not to mix up your brushes in different Pearl Ex colors
as you work.
10. After you have finished coloring the stamped images, its time to apply a
sealing finish. Brushing the surface with polyurethane will smudge the Pearl Ex, so
a better alternative is to use a fixative spray to seal the design and make it
waterproof. Apply the spray according the the directions on the product you are
using.
11. Squeeze a drop of Gold Liquid Pearls
in the center of each rose (photo #11). When
it dries, it will add attractive dimension to the
wall.
11.
Marneys Memo
I like to mix Pearl Ex with household or acrylic paints to add a bit of shimmer to the
original paint color. Its a really easy way to add a hint of sparkle to your walls,
without having to buy specialty paint. You also can mix it with glaze medium, gum
arabic (the material used to make watercolors), and glue to make other materials
you can use as paints. Consider mixing some Pearl Ex with glaze medium and
then painting bold strokes on a solid color wall. Add Pearl Ex to regular acrylic paint
and use with foam stamps. Rub a bit of Pearl Ex powder (you dont have to mix it
with any liquid) on chairs or other wood furniture and seal with a spray fixative for a
fun touch to breakfast and hobby rooms. A very little powder goes a long way, which
makes buying a small jar of Pearl Ex a really sound decorating purchase!
[page 87]
Proj
Projee ct 14:
Platinum
Enamel
Medallions
Part medieval, part
modern, these threedimensional medallions
are a wonderful eclectic
addition to a room that
crosses borders between
decorating periods and
styles.
A wall finish of three-dimensional medallions crosses over from

classic and modern style.
Who would have thought that you could recycle unwanted CDs to make something
like this? This look is a great way to make a bold dcor statement while adhering to
classic design. And its a lot of fun to work with UTEE (short for Ultra Thick
Embossing Enamel), which is like embossing powder but dramatically thicker.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
Hazelhurst paint by BEHR, satin finish

Decorative stamp (Ours is from Uptown
Design Company; see photo for product
number)
Black permanent ink (We used
Clockwise from bottom left: Jet Black
Archival Ink by Ranger in Jet Black)
Platinum Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel Archival Ink, Platinum UTEE, CDs,
heat gun, Rangers Melting Pot, CDs,
(UTEE) by Ranger
Epoxy Glue, Fleur-de-lis #E31030 from
Melting Pot by Ranger (preferred) or
Uptown Design Company, Scissors,
a heat gun and clear pigment ink
Rub-n-Buff.
Discarded CDs or CD-ROMs
Rub n Buff Wax Metallic Finish in Antique Gold
Industrial-strength adhesive such as a 5-minute Epoxy Glue
Scissors
Wax/freezer paper
Optional: tweezers
[page 88]
THE STEPS:
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Hazelhurst paint. Apply a second coat if
needed for adequate coverage or desired depth of color. Allow the paint
to dry thoroughly. Note that the vast majority of this project actually takes place
away from the wall. You wont return to the wall until the medallions are completely
finished, when you adhere them to the wall with Epoxy glue.
3.
3. Preheat the Melting Pot by turning it on to the

UTEE setting, which is the highest setting (photo #3).
When the preheating light goes out, it is ready.
4. Determine the basic shape you would like for

the medallions. We cut each CD in 4-5 pieces,
random in shape and of varying sizes. For a more
ordered look, you could cut identical shapes from
the CD, or cut shapes that will be placed in a definitive
pattern. If you heat CDs with a heat gun, they become
very easy to cut...you can, in fact, cut them with accuracy
and precision using regular craft scissors. Place the
heat gun about 4 from the CD and heat until you can
see the CD material begin to buckle, or bend, slightly
(photo #4). Use the scissors to cut the CD in the desired
shape. If necessary, repeat to cut the rest of the CD. Cut all the CDs in this manner.
4.
If you are not using the Melting Pot, you can still do this project, but
that it will take quite a bit longer, and you dont have as much
mp !note
a
t
control
over the look of the end product. Apply a clear pigment ink
S
t n pad (clear
s
e
pigment ink pads are often labeled simply as embossing
g
Sug
pads) directly to the CD. Pour UTEE over the CD and tap off the
excess. Heat the powder that has stuck to the pigment ink with the
heat gun until it melts completely. After it has melted, quickly turn
off the heat gun and pour more powder on top of the still-wet molten
UTEE. Tap off the excess powder and heat this second layer of
UTEE until it is completely melted. Repeat these steps, adding
and heating layers of UTEE, until you have built up layers to
achieve the desired finish. Then continue with step #8.)
[page 89]
5. Pour UTEE powder in the Melting Pot to the Fill Line

(photo #5). Place the cover on the Melting Pot and
wait until the UTEE is entirely molten and liquid.
5.
6. While the UTEE is melting, prepare a work surface

with wax/freezer paper, and the stamp and permanent
ink close at hand.
will be dipping a CD piece in the Melting
m p !You
a
t
and once you remove it, you will need to be
S
s t n Pot
e
g
able
to ink the stamp and stamp the CD quickly.
Sug
You may find it easier to ink the stamp prior to
removing the CD piece from the Melting Pot,
at which point all you need to do is stamp the CD.
Experiment to determine a system that works best
for you.
7.
7. Dip a CD piece in the Melting Pot to cover it with

melted UTEE (photo #7). There are lots of ways with
which you can experiment to vary the appearance of
the resulting medallions. The Melting Pot has a deep
end (the back) and a shallow end (the front). Try dipping
it in different areas of the pot to experiment with different
thicknesses of the melted coating. See how thick you
can get the UTEE by dipping repeatedly in the deep
end. Vary how much of the CD piece you want to leave
showing in the medallion. In this example, we left a lot of
the reflective CD surface on each medallion, but you
can cover most or even all of the CD surface. To
accomplish this successfully, simply use tweezers to dip
and manipulate the CD piece.
8.
8. When you are satisfied with the coating of UTEE on

the CD piece, remove it from the Melting Pot and place
it on your wax paper work space. Work quickly so that
the stamp is pressed into the image before the melted UTEE dries. After inking the
rubber stamp with permanent ink, press the stamp firmly into the melted UTEE on
the CD piece (photo #8). Do not remove the stamp; let it sit in the hot, soft UTEE
until the UTEE hardens (about 2-4 minutes).
[page 90]
9.
9. Test an unstamped area of the UTEE with your

fingernail to ensure that it is hard. Then, simply lift
the stamp off the UTEE surface (photo #9). The
stamp will pop off cleanly, and will be ready to be
re-inked for the next medallion.
10. Repeat this process to make the remaining
medallions.
11.
11. After you have made all the medallions, the

next step is to apply Antique Gold Rub n Buff
Wax Metallic Finish to antique the medallions.
Apply a very small amount of Rub n Buff on
to each medallion using your finger or a soft
rag (photo #11). It has a paste-like consistency
and a little goes a long way. After you have rubbed
it across the entire surface, allow it to dry completely
(about 10 minutes).
12.
12. After the Rub n Buff has dried , use a clean

cloth to buff the medallion. The Rub n Buff
finish stays in the etched parts of the medallion
but buffs to a matte finish on the smooth
parts (photo #12).
13. After you have antiqued all the medallions,
use a strong adhesive, such as a 5-minute
epoxy glue (which is made by several
manufacturers and available at home
improvement and craft stores) to attach the
medallions to the wall accordingly to the
instructions on the glues package.
13.
with different placement

p Experiment
m
options
for
the
medallions before you
a
S t s t n !glue them down.
Do you want them
ge
g
u
spaced
randomly,
as we have done?
S
Or perhaps you want them in a straight

row at the top of the wall, or at chair rail height?
[page 91]
Marneys Memo
UTEE is a remarkably versatile product and I think youll find that once you start,
youll never stop thinking of new ways you could use it to make beautiful items for
your home. Here are some of my favorite ways to use UTEE:
- Use small square pigment (embossing) ink pads to create a metallic
mosaic on a side table or coffee table. Simply press the ink pad
squares directly to the table, which leaves embossing ink in the shape
of a square. After applying your squares of ink, you can pour the UTEE over
each square of ink. Tap off the excess powder, and the UTEE remains in
the shape of a square. Then, simply melt with your heat gun. One coat of
UTEE creates a bumpy effect that looks like a linoleum tile. Two coats of
UTEE create a smoother finish (just apply the second coat of UTEE powder
immediately after you have melted the first coat and it is still warm.) UTEE
comes in gold, bronze, platinum, and you can alternate these colors for a
metallic mosaic. Add black and white UTEE for contrast, or create the
mosaic using only black and white tiles. UTEE also comes in interference
colors which look clear from one angle and then take on a color when viewed
from another angle. Have fun experimenting with the different ways you can
arrange tiles using this method.
- Stamp a design on a wood surface (such as a table, chair, or headboard)
and then cover with a coat of clear UTEE. It will protect the design but add
an interesting smooth finish. Great for contemporary homes!
- Apply pigment (embossing) ink to regular wooden drawer pulls or knobs
and cover with UTEE for wonderful cheap and easy metallic pulls and knobs.
Stamp small designs in the UTEE while it is still hot to add interest. Mix
several colors of UTEE together, or add regular embossing powder to
the mix, for a kaleidoscopic effect. This is also a great project for a
lamp base. You can make a stunning lamp base by using either one color
of UTEE or mixing them up. For a metallic marble look, pour several metallic
colors of UTEE on a paper plate or tray and drag a stick or pencil through the
powder to create subtle lines in the design. Then roll the lamp base (that has
been covered in pigment ink) through the powder, and then melt. Awesome!
[page 92]
Proj
Projee ct 15 :
Gold L
eaf
Leaf
Sunbursts
This fiery finish will add a
burst of energy to any room!
The stamped images are
covered entirely in gold leaf,
resulting in a striking
presentation that reacts
boldly with light.
A gilded stamped design gives any room the royal treatment!
The gold leaf not only adds

shimmer, it also adds texture.
Its an impressive wall techniques that will baffle your houseguests...they wont
be able to figure out HOW the heck you did it! (Its up to YOU whether you choose to
disclose how easy it truly is!)
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
F
F
F
F
F
Aphrodite paint by BEHR, satin finish

Gold leaf flecks or sheets (We used
Amys Magical Gold Leaf Flakes,
available at speciality rubber stamping
or by contacting the company directly at
724-845-1748.)
Large sun and small border rubber
stamps (Ours are both from PSX; see
photo for product names and numbers. )
Liquid tacky adhesive (We
recommend Duo Embellishing
Adhesive by USArtQuest.)
1 sponge brush
Small artists paint brush
Paper or plastic plate
Clockwise from bottom left: #C-513

by PSX, #K-1781 from the Home
Decor line by PSX, Amys Magical
Gold Leaf Flakes, Duo Embellishing
Adhesive by USArtQuest,
sponge brush, small artists paint
brush.)
[page 93]
THE STEPS:
3.
2. Paint walls with even coverage of Aphrodite

to dry thoroughly.
3. Pour a bit of the tacky adhesive on a paper
or plastic plate. Dip the sponge paint brush in
the adhesive so that one side of it is covered
in the liquid (photo #3).
4.
4. Lightly brush across the rubber surface of

the large sun stamp (photo #4). Make sure
that you cover all raised rubber areas.
As you apply the adhesive to the
m p ! stamp,use a skimming action by

a
t
S
s t n lightly brushing the surface of the brush
e
g
against the very top part of the rubber.
Sug
5.
This reduces the amount of adhesive

that gets in the rubbers cracks and crevices
for a clearer design and easier clean-up.
5. Immediately press the stamp to the wall

(photo #5). The best way to do this is to position
the stamp with one hand, and then use both
hands to apply even pressure. When you release the stamp, the tacky adhesive will
remain on the wall, in the shape of the design. If you will not be making subsequent
stampings with the adhesive, clean the stamp thoroughly before moving ahead.
The adhesive cleans up with plain water, but make sure you get
p
m
all of the crevices. The easiest way is to take a wet rag or paper
S t a s t n ! into
towel
and continuously blot the rubber until the adhesive has been
e
g
g
removed. A wet dishwashing scrubber gets the job done quickly.
Su
Then use a small pointed object (a fingernail cleaner works well)
to clean out dried bits of adhesive that are stuck in the crevices.
[page 94]
After you complete step #5 for the first time, its a good idea to
p
m
go ahead and clean the stamp. This will give you plenty of time to
S t a s t n ! experiment with the leafing process without worrying about the
ge
adhesive drying on the rubber. Once you are comfortable with all
S ug
steps of the process, you can work efficiently by making several
successive stampings by repeating steps 4 and 5, until you have
stamped all the images. Then, move on to leafing all the images.
6. Wait 2 minutes to allow the adhesive to cure.

Then, place the leaf flecks over the design area,
lightly patting the flakes down with your index finger
as you go (photo #6). Youll see the flakes flatten
and adhere to the design as you go. (Note: If you
are using sheets of gold leaf instead of gold flecks,
simply place the sheet down directly on the
stamped area.)
7. After you have tapped over the entire area, use
your index finger to burnish the leaf by rubbing
back and forth very quickly (photo #7). You also can
use the back of a spoon as a burnisher. As you
burnish, the flecks that did not adhere to the image
will brush away. (Note: If you are using gold leaf
sheets instead of flecks, the process is the same.
You will notice that the leaf flecks from the sheet
breaks off into flecks as you burnish.)
8. Since a wall is a vertical
surface, you will probably see
some stray flakes around the
design after you have burnished
the whole area with your finger.
Use the paint brush to vigorously
brush away any the flakes (photo
#8) so that you are left with a
clean image (photo #8a).
6.
7.
8.
8a.
9. Repeat these steps to add

the rest of the sun images to the
wall.
[page 95]
10. The next step is to add small gold leaf borders in between the sun designs,
following the same steps you used for the suns. Use the progression in photos
#10-#10d as a guide:
10.
10a.
10c.
10b.
10d.
And thats the mystery behind the gold leaf magic!
Marneys Memo
Once you get the hang of this technique, youll start seeing
possibilities for gold leaf everywhere! Just keep in mind
Dream is #KC9031-H by
that the technique works best with stamp designs that are
American Art Stamps,
Believe is #W-646 by
relatively solid. Word stamps (right) work great with gold
Paper Parachute.
leaf...and they are a great way to personalize walls or
furniture. You can even use sets of alphabet stamps to stamp
your own quotations. Alphabet sets come in all shapes, styles and sizes....do a
search for alaphabet at AddictedToRubberStamps.com to see a sample!
[page 96]
B
eyond Rubber: U
nique T
Beyond
Unique
Tee chniques
aking Y
our Own Stamps
& Designs for M
Making
Your
There are many materials you can carve in order to make your own rubber stamps
to use in dcor projects.
Popular materials include erasers, foam, rubber, wood, potatoes, and sponges.
You can carve a design into an object (such as a chunk of rubber) or you can cut
pieces out of an object (such as foam) and then arrange and attach them to a wood
block to use as a stamp.
This section:
- Walks you through the process of making stamps with each
of the six materials mentioned above
- Includes 12 original designs that you can transfer
to your carving block of choice to create your own
stamps.
Making Stamps with Rubber: Available Rubber Materials
If youre interested in carving your own stamps, a really great
way to start is to work with the Speedy Stamp products from
Speedball (right).
You can buy a stamp carving set that has everything you need
to make several stamps, including two carving tools (a #2
V-shaped blade and a #4 U-shaped blade) tracing paper, and
a Speedy Stamp block.
The Speedy Stamp block is a very smooth rubber
surface that is really easy to cut...even intricate designs
come out quite lovely (right).
Speedy Stamp carving

set from Speedball.
An intricate design
carved in a Speedy
Stamp block.
[page 97]
Besides being very soft and easy to cut, the Speedy Stamp material picks up ink
and toner in the same way that Silly Putty does, which makes transferring images a
snap!
This stamp carving set is a great value and If you are new to
carving stamps, we cant recommend this great product
highly enough.
For a greater challenge, you can carve pieces cut from
sheets of industrial rubber (available at Home Improvement
stores). Or - for something more readily available - you can
carve red rubber or white vinyl erasers (right).
Transferring an Image to Speedy Stamp Block
Vinyl erasers can be used

as stamp blocks.
Whether you are carving a Speedy Stamp block, a rubber eraser, or from rubber
sheets, the process is basically the same. The first step is to transfer an image.
With the Speedy Stamp block, this is really easy, because the material picks up ink
and toner.
Use a pencil to draw your design on paper, or trace it onto tracing paper (photo #1).
Make the pencil lines clean and dark. To transfer the design, center the drawing or
tracing face-down on the block and rub the back of the design with your fingertip or
the back of your fingernails (photo #2). Be sure to rub all areas that have pencil
markings. When you remove the paper, the drawing will be transferred to the block,
and will be your guide for carving (photo #3).
1.
2.
3.
[page 98]
Transferring an Image to Rubber Erasers

Most rubber and vinyl erasers pick up ink and toner in the same way that the
Speedy Stamp block does, so the process is usually the same. If you are drawing
directly on the eraser, a soft pencil (#2) will transfer better than harder leads. The
image will most likely be much fainter than it will be on the Speedy Stamp block.
This is no problem - all you need to do is just outline the design with an ink pen so it
will be easier to see.
Transferring an Image to Industrial Rubber
If you are transferring an image to a piece cut from sheets of industrial rubber, you
will need to use transfer paper (also called graphite paper or carbon paper),
which you can find at art and craft supply stores.
Place a sheet of transfer paper with the transfer side down on top of the rubber.
Then, place the paper with your design on top of the trasnfer paper. Use a pointed
object (a working or dried-out pen, stylus, or small round stick) to go over each line
of the design. Each line you trace with the pointed object with be transferred to the
face of the rubber.
Carving Images in Rubber
When approaching the carving of your design, remember that every design has a
positive area and a negative area. The positive area is the area that will remain
raised. It is the part of the design that will receive the ink and will transfer that ink
to the surface. The negative area is the area that is cut away.
Take this design as an example. You could approach the carving of this stamp in
two ways. In the example of the left, you would carve out the shaded areas so that
the scroll design, itself, would be stamped on the surface. In the example on the
right, you would carve out the scroll design, so that the background area would be
stamped onto the surface, leaving the original surface to show through in the scroll
design.
[page 99]
While there are many tools that you can use to carve, the two that are most handy
are V-shaped and U-shaped carving tools. Before carving on the surface with your
design, practice with a scrap of the material you will be using.
Lets walk through practicing using a V-shaped blade:
1. Hold the tools handle so that the V is upright.
2. Carve by pushing the handle forward, away
from yourself. Youll see the blade fill with small
strings of the block as you carve.
3. Now work to perfect the angle with which you
hold the tool. Aim to hold the carving tool at an
angle, as parallel as possible to the design
(right). This will allow you to make horizontal,
shallow cuts.
Hold the carving tool as parallel

as possible to the design, and
carve by pushing the handle
forward, away from your body.
Keep in mind that your goal is to peel the block,

rather than gouge it. If you hold the tool at too
steep an angle, you will probably end up digging deeper than you need to.
(Hint: If you dont see the upper edges of the blade above the rubber, you
are digging too deep.)
On the other hand, if you dont carve the block deep enough, your edges will
be ragged. Spend a bit of time practicing the angle that gives you the best
results. Practice carving in long, continuous lines as much as possible.
m p ! If holding the handle horizontally is difficult,

a
t
S
s t n you can level your handle by simply pulling
e
g
your arm toward your body until your wrist
Sug
drops off your work surface, which automatically

positions the handle and blade correctly.
Now lets move to your design...
[page 100]
1. Start by carving the perimeter of your design with

the V-blade (right). Carve right up next to the marking
on the surface. Use light pressure for carving thin lines
and heavier pressure for carving thick lines.
2. After carving the perimeter, move on to other lines
in the design. Whenever possible, carve away from
your image. When following the curves of your design,
rotate the block itself, rather than rotating the
carving tool.
Carve the perimeter of your design
with a V-blade.
p To make rotating the carving block easier,

m
a
S t s t n !try placing a small piece of paper between
the image and the work surface. Use your
ge
g
u
non-carving hand to turn the block as you
S
following the curves of your design.
3. Use carving blades to your advantage. A V-blade

makes a different cut than a U-blade. Select which one
is most appropriate for the work you are doing.
For example, if you are carving a solid star image,
place the V-blade at the inside corners and carve away
from the center, out beyond each point in the star.
As a general rule, V-blades are great for carving the
outline of designs, and the wider U-blades are handy for
carving out larger areas within the design (right).
see your carving process better, you can ink the
m p ! To
a
t
of the block with a brown or dark blue dye ink
S
t n surface
s
e
pad.
This
allows you to see the contrast between the
g
Sug
surface left behind and the portions you have carved
away, and youll still be able to see your pencil or
transfer design through the ink.
[page 101]
4. After you have finished carving the stamp, you must determine if you
want to mount it on wood. Small, simple stamps carved into Speedy Stamp
blocks or erasers can be used on their own as stamps. More intricate
stamps, or any stamps on sheet rubber, should be attached to wood blocks
using a strong glue (such as a 5-minute epoxy glue). Place craft foam or
another foam material between the rubber and the wood to act as a cushion
(see our previous instructions for mounting stamps.)
Carving Images in Other Materials
Sponges are wonderful material for stamping
with a weathered, rustic look. Regular kitchen
sponges in their hardened state are very easy
to carve into (right). You can carve a design
freehand, or use the image transferring methods
we mentioned in the previous section.
Carving potatoes is another great way to
achieve a rustic look. Cut a potato in half and
then draw the design with a pencil or transfer
the design using one of the techniques we
mentioned earlier. The potato will take the
ink or pencil quite well. Carve using V- and
U-blades, according to the same instructions
given for carving rubber.
A stamp carved from a regular kitchen

sponge creates a textured, rustic image.
A more advanced project is to carve into blocks of wood, which is an ancient fine art
know as wood cutting (below left). The steps are exactly the same as
transferring and carving a rubber block, but the carving requires much more precision. Still, if the process appeals to you, you might want to give it a try. Woodcuts
reveal subtle, weathered images that would be perfect for the walls in an Arts and
Crafts style or Early American style home (below right).
[page 102]
Making a Stamp with Foam

You can use regular craft foam (available at art and craft stores) to make stamps,
but the process is slightly different from the other methods we have introduced.
Foam is not deep enough to actually carve into to create a design. Instead, you cut
the design out of foam and then attach the foam to a wood block. The foam
piece(s) become the raised part of the stamp. This is a very quick way to get a
stamp that makes a very solid impression.
1. Start with the desired image on a regular sheet of paper. It can be a design you
draw yourself, one of the original designs at the end of this section, clip art from the
computer, or artwork from any other source.
2. Use a small amount of spray adhesive to attach the
design to a sheet of foam. Cut the design out with a
pair of scissors or an X-acto knife (right). As you cut,
arrange the cut pieces of foam in the appropriate
fashion on your work space, so that you dont lose
track of the design.
Cut the image out of foam with
3. You will need a block of wood to which you will

an X-acto knife.
attach the rubber pieces. Go to your local hardware or
home improvement store and ask for scraps of wood.
MDF (medium density fiberboard) is perfect for this
purpose because it is strong, durable, easy to cut,
and it does not warp. Place the pieces of foam on the
block of wood in the appropriate arrangement and use
a pencil to outline the shapes (right). This allows you to
determine the exact arrangement before the final
adhesion of the foam to the block.
You also can use foam core for the backing of a stamp, Use a pencil to outline the foam
cut to be slightly larger than your design. A foam
pieces on the wood block, prior to
core-backed stamp is harder to handle than a wood
permanently adhering them.
block, but if you dont have access to scraps of wood,
it is a viable alternative.
[page 103]
mp
well. Lining up the foam shapes on both sides of the wood
S t a s t n !as
outlining them to be perfect mirror images of one another is
g e and
g
u
not essential, but it is quite helpful. Youll be able to see the exact
S
You may want to outline the shapes on the other side of the wood,
shape of the stamp facing you on the reverse side of the block
as you position the stamp on your surface.
4. Apply contact cement to both the foam pieces and to the side of
the block to which you will attach the foam pieces. Use a small piece of
cardboard to spread the adhesive evenly over the block and larger foam
pieces. Do not use another kind of adhesive as it may either deteriorate
the foam or not provide a strong enough bond. Allow the adhesive to
dry until it is tacky (about 30 minutes).
5. When the contact cement is dry and tacky, pick up each foam section
and position it carefully on the block, using the outline as a guide. Use
tweezers to pick up the small pieces. Allow the stamp to dry (about
an hour) and then your stamp is ready to use.
6. Use the stamp with any rubber stamping ink or paint.
Sources for Designs
The sky is the limit, when it comes to finding sources for designs. Type clip art and
the desired design in a search engine to print out clip art that you can transfer to
your stamp-making material of choice. You can adjust the size so that the image is
the perfect size for your decorating needs. Look at wallpaper and wrapping paper
samples for images you can cut out and/or modify for your needs. Trace real leaves
on tracing paper to design a stamp directly from nature.
Weve provided 12 original designs on the following pages. For each design, we
offer two alternatives for carving. Determine which portion of the design you want to
be the raised part of the stamp, and select the design where that portion is
shaded. Use the shaded areas as a guide to help you know which portion to carve.
You can change the magnification to print these designs out at different sizes.
Consider using one motif in several different sizes in a room. Using the same
design unifies the look of the room, while the variances in shape add interest.
[page 104]
The Designs
Sunburst
Swirl
Symmetrical
Medallion
Shell Scroll
[page 105]
Asian Dream
Flower Kite
Sectioned
Leaf
[page 106]
Whimsy Daisy
Scandanavian
Tulip
European Crest
[page 107]
Oriental
Crest
Detail Scroll
[page 108]
Happy Nature Scroll
[page 109]
A
ppendix A:
Appendix
Rubber Stamp Retailers
(representative list of U.S. specialty stores)
(ARIZONA, cont.)
ALABAMA
Sandys Corner
410 W. Gurley St.
Prescott, AZ 86301
(928) 708-9111
The Rubber Stamp Lady

7914 Memorial Pkwy. #B-7
Huntsville, AL
(256) 880-1106
Sir Stamps-A-Lot
186 Oxmoor Road - C-1
Homewood, AL
(205) 943-9129
ARKANSAS
Paper & Ink
1862 Crossover Road - Ste. 1
Fayetteville, AR
(501) 973-2770
ARIZONA
Ink it!
225 N. Gilber Rd.
Gilbert, AZ 85234
(480) 632-6801
Katies Closet Art Stamps
7150 N. 58th Ave.
Glendale, AZ
(623) 937-3750
Libbys Highway Rubbery
7835 E. Broadway
Tuscon, AZ 86710
Sassy Stamper
6486 Highway 179 Ste. 111
Sedona, AZ
(928) 284-0456
Scraps N Stamps
1910 W. Northern Ave.
Phoenix, AZ
(602) 558-0760
(CALIFORNIA, cont.)
CALIFORNIA
A Little Bizaar
31768 Casino Dr., #107B
Lake Elsinore, CA
(909) 471-0882
Bird Nest Designs
692 Whiting St.
Grass Valley, CA
(530) 273-4225
Cracker Jack Too!
16 E. State St.
Redlands, CA
(909) 793-2200
[page 110]
(CALIFORNIA, cont.)
(CALIFORNIA, cont.)
Only the Best

21267 Stevens Creek Blvd., #312
Cupertino, CA
(408) 255-2556
Stampers Warehouse
101 G. Town & Country Drive
Danville, CA
(925) 362-9595
Oskadusa
243 N Hwy. 101, #6
Solana Beach, CA
(858) 755-2323
Suzi Finer Artworks

238 S. Robertson Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA
(310) 360-1800
The Paperie
534 Fifth Ave.
San Diego, CA
(619) 234-5457
Violets Rubber Stamp Inn

2692 Loma Vista Rd., Ste. A
Ventura, CA 93003
(805) 648-7610
Positive Impressions
3739 6th St.
Riverside, CA
(909) 788-4287
COLORADO
The Stamp Addict

7151 El Cajon Blvd, Ste. K
San Diego, CA 92115
(866) 667-5060
Stampin on Cloud 9
403 S. Myrtle Ave.
Montovia, CA
(626) 358-2886
The Stampers Station
200 Union St., Ste. B
Orcutt, CA
(805) 937-4163
Creative Impressions
2520 West Colorado Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO
(719) 577-4858
DELAWARE
Creative Stuff
1304 Old Lancaster Pike
Hockessin, DE
(302) 235-1350
White Swan Rubber Stamps
116 Delaware St.
Historic New Castle
New Castle, DE 19720
(302) 323-1616
[page 111]
FLORIDA
(FLORIDA, cont.)
A Small Cleverness
868 Blanding Blvd. #113
Orange Park, FL
(904) 272-0503
Oblique
4450 Bonita Beach Road - Ste. 4
Bonita Springs, FL
(941) 498-9343
Claires Collectibles
78-B San Marco Avenue
St. Augstine, FL
(904) 825-1122
The Owl & The Pussycaat

15881 S. Tamiami Trail #4
Fort Myers, FL
(239) 489-4311
Country Images
3101 S.W. 34th Ave., #704
Ocala, FL
(352) 237-5411
Romances
32641 Radio Rd. #101
Leesburg, FL
(352) 315-0333
Dianas Creative Stamping

402 Canal Street
New Smyrna Beach, FL
(386) 423-4233
Sarasota Stamps
4245 Bee Ridge Rd.
Sarasota , FL
(941) 378-4673
Everything Scrapbook & Stamps

9585 W. Palm Beach, FL
(561) 333-3004
Scrapdoodle
6235 N. Davis Highway, Ste. 117
Pensacola, FL
(350) 494-2767
Impressive Ideas
Boynton Beach Mall
801 N. Conbress Ave. #207
Boynton Beach, FL
(561) 742-2490
Sentiments
1881 W. State Road 434
Longwood (Orlando), FL
( 407) 831-3181
Impressions from the Heart

2501 Howell Branch Rd.
Casselberry, FL
(407) 671-1008
Stamp Augstine
11-A Aviles St.
St. Augstine, FL
(904) 829-1560
[page 112]
(FLORIDA, cont.)
(FLORIDA, cont.)
Stamp & Deliver

3133 S. Ridgewood Ave.
S. Daytona, FL 32119
(239) 767-3636
Treasure Cay
30226 US Hwy. 19 North
Clearwater, FL
(727) 784-0880
Stampers Junction
7211 Atlantic Blvd.
Jacksonville, FL
(904) 725-1253
Violettes Art Stamp & Scrapbooks

4604 Cleveland Hieghts Blvd.
Lakeland, FL
(863) 644-0801
Stamping Wild
7019 W. Broward Blvd.
Plantation, FL
(954) 584-8111
GEORGIA
Stamps & Memories

38 E. Magnolia Ave.
Eustis, FL
(352) 589-4399
Stamp Til Dawn
295 Towne Center Circle
Sanford, FL
(407) 688-9940
Tamp A Stamp
3637 S. Westshore Blvd.
Tampa, FL
(813) 839-6588
Three Crafty Ladies
1620 Periwinkle Way
Sanibel Island, FL
(239) 472-2893
Angel Art Rubber Stamp Gallery

422 E. Crogan Street
Lawrenceville, GA
(770) 995-2333
Old Town Crafts
101 E. Weed St.
St. Marys, GA 31558
(912) 882-9000
Rubber Stamp Fantasy
136 S. Park Square
Marietta, GA
(770) 590-8500
Scrapbooks and More
(Inside Paper Rose Studio)
1991 Hwy 54 West
Fayetteville, GA
(770) 632-8623
Stampart Jubilee
4300 Paces Ferry Rd.
Atlanta, GA
(770) 431-7888
[page 113]
HAWAII
(ILLINOIS, cont.)
Creations Unlimited
95-1249 Meheula Pkwy., D-16
Mililani, HI
(808) 623-4661
Rubber Stamp Rendezvous

625 N. Blackhawk Blvd.
Rockton, IL
(815) 624-4954
ILLINOIS
Stamp Shack
123 S. Washington
Naperville, IL
(630) 420-2254
Carolina Moon
1952 River Rd.
Des laines, IL
(847) 297-9622
Creative Scrapbooks & More
2561 W. Gold Rd.
Hoffman Estates, IL
(847) 882-8142
Ink & Stamp with Sue
303 S. Main
Galena, IL
(815) 77-STAMP
Stamp Thyme
201 S. State Street
Lockport, IL
800-STAMP 93
The Stampers Corner
3 S. Batavia Ave.
Batavia, IL
(630) 406-8642
INDIANA
Nickelbys
219 Coffin Rd.
Long Grove, IL
(847) 634-6552
Creative Stamping
2647 Highway Ave.
Highland, IN
(219) 923-5044
The Papery
124 Calendar Avenue
La Grange, IL
(708) 352-9508
Ink Angel Rubber Stamps &

Memory Albums
2104 Station Ct.
Elkhart, IN
(574) 295-4573
The Pretty Palette

218 W. State St.
St. Charles, IL 60174
(630) 587-6141
Lady and the Stamp

209 Broadway
Chesterton, IN
(219) 926-9063
[page 114]
(INDIANA, cont.)
(MAINE, cont.)
Smoky Mountain Stamp Camp

601 Glades Rd. #27
Gatlinburg, IN
(865) 436-4292
Stamps & Stuff, Inc.

475 US Route One
Freeport, ME
(207) 865-6685
Stampin Paradise
9719 E US Hwy 36
Avon, IN
(317) 209-6003
MARYLAND
The Village Scribe Shoppe

31 N. Kringle Place PLz.
Santa Claus, IN 47579
(812) 937-4590
Wishful Thinking
59 East Main St.
Nashville, IN
(812) 988-7009
IOWA
Expressions With Heart
107 High AVe. West
Oskaloosa, IA
(866) 672-1730
Outstamping Designs
215 Fifth St.
West Des Moines, OA
(515) 277-5719
MAINE
Rubber Chicken
19618 Clubhouse Rd.
Montgomery Village, MD
(301) 948-0644
The Queens Ink
1641 Rte. 3 North
Crofton, MD
(410) 451-4440
MASSACHUSETTS
Absolutely Everything
103 East Main St.
Georgetown, MA
(978) 352-7570
Artastic!
Sudbury Crossing
423 Boston Post Road
Sudbury, MA
(978) 579-9880
Artbeat
212 A Massachussets Ave.
Arlington, MA
(781) 646-2200
Creative Dimensions
85 Benton Ave.
Winslow, ME
(207) 873-5249
[page 115]
(MASSACHUSSETS, cont.)
By-the-Bay
Foster Square
2655 Main St.
Brewster, MA
(508) 896-1858
Colorful Creations
45 North Main St.
Falmouth, MA
(508) 495-1847
Rubber Stampleton
On the Common, 5 South Blvd.
Templeton, MA
(978) 939-5737
Stamp of Approval
Zero Faneuil Hll Square
Boston, MA
(617) 720-4609
The Stamp Lady
136 Andover Street, Rt. 114
Danvers, MA
(978) 750-6655
Keep Stampin and Scrappin

3047 W. 12 Mile Rd.
Berkley, MI
(248) 544-7322
Paradise
218 N. Main
Romeo, MI
(586) 355-1403
Stamped in Time
640 Romence Rd., #115
Portage, MI
(616) 324-2390
Stampeddler Plus
145 N. Center
Northville, MI
(248) 348-4446
Stampers Rendez-Vous
116-C N. Whittaker
New Buffalo, MI
(616) 468-1817
MICHIGAN
Stamp Friendszy
1729 Plymouth Rd.
Ann Arbor, MI
(734) 996-4312
A1 Stamps
1214 S. Garfield Ave.
Traverse City, MI
(231) 946-1530
Stamp On It
437 Butternut Dr.
Holland, MI
(616) 393-8596
Art & Soul

436 N. Main Street
Milford, MI
(248) 684-8777
The Paper Center

at Heritage Papers
5400 36th Street SE
Grand Rapids, MI
(616) 942-0280
[page 116]
(MICHIGAN, cont.)
(MISSOURI, cont.)
The Stamping Grounds

228 West Fourth St.
Royal Oak, MI
(248) 543-2190
Stamp & Art Specialties

115 N. Main St.
St. Charles, MO
(636)940-9900
The Write Stuff

65 Macomb Place, Studio E
Mt. Clemens, MI
(586) 463-8054
Stamping Ground
7709 147th St. W.
Apple Valley, MN
(612) 997-2324
MINNESOTA
The Stamp Patch

826 SW Blue Pkway
Lees Summit, MO
(816) 554-3300
Create-A-Card Studio
39629 State Hwy 18
Aitkin, MN 56431
Stamping Ground
7709 147th St. W
Apple Valley, MN
(612) 997-2324
Unique Impressions
Engler Block Mall
1335 W. Hwy 76
Branson, MO
(616) 393.8596
MISSOURI
NEVADA
Brass Butterfly
5360 S. Campbell Ave., Ste. D
Springfield, MO
(417) 885-7060
Las Vegas Art Stamps

3626 Pecos McLeod #7
Las Vegas, NV 89121
(702) 367-0411
Prints Charming
3051-C Lusk Dr.
Neosho, MO
(417) 455-2828
Viva Las Vegastamps

1008 E. Sahara Ave.
Las Vegas, NV
(702) 836-9118
Red Lead
10041 Manchester
St. Louis, MO
(314) 822-8288
[page 117]
NEW MEXICO
Stamp A Mania
1800-A Avenida de Mesilla
Las Cruces, NM
88005
(05) 524-7099
NEW JERSEY
Luna Studio
4 Mine St.
Flemington, NJ
(908) 806-6366
Sparta Stationery Plus
39 Woodport Road
Sparta, NJ
(973) 729-8787
My Favorite Things
Two Halstead Ave.
Harrison, NY
(914) 835-3908
Stampin and Scrappin Time
396 Main Street Rte. 31
Bridgeport, NY
(315) 633-5325
Stamps to Di For
349 W. Commercial St.
Piano Works PMall
East Rochester, NY
(716) 248-2420
The Ink Pad
22 Eighth Avenue
New York, NY
(212) 463-9876
NEW YORK
Crafters Workshop
116 S. Central Ave. (Rte. 9A)
Elmsford, NY
(914) 345-2838
The Stamping Ground

14 East Broadway
Port Jefferson, NY
(631) 331-5553
NORTH CAROLINA
Creative Gatherings
244 W. Main Street
Goshen, NY
(845) 294-9093
Dragonfly Rubber Stamps & Gifts
2 Elmwood Avenue
Adamns, NY
(315) 232-3249
Blue Ridge Stamps

2064 Hwy. 70
Swannanoa, NC
(828) 298-6600
Carolina Art Stamps
5820 Hwy. 74 West
Indian Trail, NC
(704) 821-5250
[page 118]
OHIO
TEXAS
Creative Stamping Center

137 S. Prospect Ave.
Hartville, OH
(330) 877-7577
Eccentricities
1609A Spring Cypress Road
Spring, TX
(281) 288-0585
Stamps N Memories
6318 Market Avenue North
North Canton, OH
(330) 433-0101
Imprints
4919-B Camp Bowie Blvd.
Ft. Worth, TX
(817) 731-3233
OKLAHOMA
Memory Depot
4107 S. Capital of Texas Hwy.
Brodie Oaks Shopping Center
Austin, TX 78704
And Bear Makes 3

4603 S. E.29th
Del City, OK
(405) 672-6404
Stampers Anonymous
2607-A S. Memorial Drive
Tulsa, OK
(918) 270-1930
PENNSYLVANIA
Adventures with Stamps
30 Lynmar Ave.
Campbelltown, PA
(717) 838-1120
Stamp Fanci
460 Perry Hwy.
Pittsburgh, PA
(412) 931-1109
Stamp-ede
1720 S. Queen St.
York, PA
(717) 852-8555
Novel Approach, Inc.

607 Friendswood Drive #15
Friendswood, TX
(281) 992-3137
Stamp Antonio Arts

2211 N. W. Military Highway
San Antonio, TX
(210) 342-6217
Stamp Asylum
2001 Coit Road - #165
Plano, TX
(972) 696-1224
The Stamp Act
5024 Coniphan Drive #9
El Paso, TX
(915) 833-9500
[page 119]
(TEXAS, cont.)
(VIRGINIA, cont.)
Rubber Stamp Kingdom

5448 Burnet Road
Austin, TX
(512) 452-1213
Stamp It!
317 Laskin Road
Virginia Beach, VA
(757) 425-0721
Stamp n Hand
200 S. 4th St.
La Crosse, WI
(608) 784-1234
Stamp n Memories
4640-9A Monticello Ave.
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 425-0721
Sensational Stamps
2114 Park Brook
Katy, TX 77450
(281) 578-1347
Stampers Paradise
2135 General Booth #136
Virginia Beach, VA
(757) 563-989
VIRGINIA
WASHINGTON
Artfully Scribed
719 Pine Street
Herndon, VA
(703) 78-STAMP
Cecil & Bird

8805 N. Harborview Dr.
Gig Harbor, WA
(253) 853-4515
Color Wheel
1374 Chain Bridge Rd.
McLean, VA
(703) 356-8477
WISCONSIN
Craft House/Studio Art Shop

313-C Neff Ave.
Harrisonburg, VA
(540) 432-0695
Handcraft House
Rt. 29
Madison, VA
(800) 207-0534
Picture This
6000 Hwy 93
Eau Claire, WI
(715) 830-9555
Please note that this list is not
a complete listing of all stores, but
merely a representative of some of
the many rubber stamp
specialty stores across the US.
Use the Internet or your phone book
for a complete list of stores in
your area.
[page 120]
Ap
pendix B:
Appendix
Pr
eparing and Priming W
alls
Preparing
Walls
PREPARING YOUR WALLS
Preparing your walls basically consists of two parts: cleaning the wall and
making any necessary repairs.
Cleaning the wall is essential because paint will not bond to dirt, grease, dust, or
to a shiny surface. Additionally, there may be existing glossy paint or wallpaper
that needs to be dealt with.
Repairs are done mainly for aesthetic purposes, to ensure that the wall appears
flawless before you begin your paint job. This can take a little time, but it is worth
it in order to achieve a fully professional result.
If you are creating a highly textural finish, such as dry brushing, it is less important to complete every single repair exhaustively, because this technique hides
imperfections very effectively.
Cleaning Dust and Dirt: To clean walls of dust and loose dirt, you can vacuum the
wall gently with a vacuum cleaner or use a soft cloth or brush.
Cleaning Grease: If the walls are greasy, wipe them down with a damp cloth and
a mild cleaning agent. Our favorite recipe for such a cleaning agent is to mix a
bit of ammonia with dishwashing detergent and then add about two tablespoons to
a quart of warm water. Be sure to go over the walls again with another clean cloth,
this time using only plain water.
Do not wash raw wood or unpainted plaster. Continue reading for instructions
for preparing these surfaces.
Repairing Peeling Paint: Using a scraper, scrape off any portions of paint that
are peeling, loose or that have bubbles. When scraping an area, stop where the
old paint is holding up well.
[page 121]
Then, you will need to add a thin coat of spackling compound to the spots that
you have scraped away. This will eliminate the ridges between a scraped
surface and the old paint that remains. When the spackling compound dries,
sand the area using medium sand paper, and then give the area a brushing with
fine grit paper to finish it off.
Repairing Cracks and Holes: Brush away loose paint and debris from holes and
cracks with a dry rag. Wet the rag slightly and moisten the edges around the
hole or crack, and then fill with spackling compound using a spackle blade to
smooth it out.
You may need to apply more than one coat, once the spackling compound dries.
When the final coat is dry, sand it with a piece of fine sandpaper.
Preparing a Glossy Surface: Oil-based paint (also called oil-based enamel, or
alkyd paint) surfaces are very non-porous and it is difficult to adhere paint, or
even primer, to them. One option is to use a sanding block (a piece of sandpaper wrapped around or glued on a block of wood) and work in a circular motion
along the wall, trim, and woodwork. After you have sanded, wipe down the walls
with a damp cloth and allow them to dry thoroughly.
Another alternative is to wash the surface and then use a primer specifically
formulated for glossy surfaces. We recommend Bulls Eye 1-2-3 by Zinsser.
(Keep on reading for more information about primers!)
Preparing to Paint Over Wallpaper: If you are going to be adding a stamped
design to your wall, do not paint over wallpaper.
There are several methods to remove wallaper from your walls. Remember
that it usually takes a full day to strip wallpaper from an average-size room.
Many new wallpapers are strippable, which means they can be removed without
chemicals or water. To check if your wallpaper is strippable, use a putty knife (or
a dull kitchen knife) to pull up at the corner of a seam near the bottom of the wall.
Does the paper pull away easily as you gently pull it with the knife? If so, you
have strippable wallpaper and should say a quick prayer of thanks to the
wallpaper goddesses, because your job will be easy!
[page 122]
To remove the paper, grab the lower corner of a strip and pull it away until both
corners of the strip are free. Hold the bottom edge with both hands and pull until
the whole strip is off the wall. Repeat until you have removed all strips. If the
paper is not coming off easily in some places, use a razor knife to make a series
of horizontal strips in the wallpaper, about 10 inches apart from one another. Then
you can loosen the smaller section of paper and pull it off.
The walls in most homes that are less than 50 years old use drywall, also called
plasterboard, which are sheets of chalk-like substance covered with thin
cardboard.
When you remove strippable wallpaper, the paper surface of the drywall may
come up. If this happens you should stop immediately because it means that the
drywall was not properly sealed. If you find yourself in this situation, glue down
any loose pieces with regular white glue.
Then, fill in the uneven areas with spackling compound and sand the finish to
make it smooth.
Note that there is a difference between peelable wallpaper and strippable
wallpaper. While strippable wallpaper can be stripped completely in pieces,
peelable wallpaper has a vinyl top coat that can be peeled off, while the backing
remains on the wall.
This backing must be removed with the technique for removing washable
wallpaper, which is described below. Even if the backing is in good condition, do
not leave it on the wall. Neither wallpaper glue nor paint will adhere to it.
Removing Washable Wallpaper: This job is messy but with older wallpapers, it is
the only way to get the job done, except to rent a steamer to steam-strip.
(If you are interested in steam-stripping, you can rent a steamer at major home
improvement stores, or look up Wallpaper Removal in your phone directory to
find local companies that either rent steamers or will come and do the job for
you.)
In order for water to penetrate the paper when you remove it, you have to break
through the plastic film that covers the wallpaper by using a scoring tool to make
small holes in the wallpaper. After making these holes in the paper, spray the
paper liberally with a spray bottle until the paper is soaked.
[page 123]
Spray water directly into the slits so that the water can saturate behind the
plastic film. After soaking for about 10 minutes, you should be able to scrape off
the paper with a putty knife. Finally, be sure to wash down the walls to remove
any residue from the glue before you paint.
Removing Wallpaper with a Stripping Solvent: You can buy wallpaper removal
solutions from a home improvement store such as Home Depot or Lowes.
These solutions will save you time if you are facing a large room, or if you are
dealing with multiple layers of wallpaper to strip.
There are many different kinds of removal solutions, but the majority of them are
mixed with hot water and then applied to the wallpaper with a broad brush or
sprayer. You should plan to wear gloves and goggles when working with these
chemicals.
You usually have to wait about half an hour for a solvent-based stripping solution
to become fully absorbed through holes youve made in the wallpaper. When
pieces of the wallpaper can be scraped off with your fingernail, you will know that
it is ready. At that point, use a spackling knife to scrape off the paper until you
have a smooth surface.
When the wallpaper is removed, sand the surface with medium grit sandpaper
before applying your first coat of primer. For an even finish, create a sand block
by gluing a piece of sandpaper to a block of wood, and sand in a circular
motion.
SELECTING AND APPLYING PRIMER
Applying primer is very important because it creates a bond between the paint
and the surface you are painting.
If you are painting on a raw surface, one that you have repaired, or one that has
a glossy finish, your paint job will be uneven and coverage will be spotty if you
dont prime your surface. Priming ensures that the paint will be absorbed evenly.
Primer is available in different varieties and each one has a specific purpose.
Weve given you some of our recommendations, but keep in mind that there are
many different brands available for each type of primer. You can ask for
recommended brands at your home improvement store.
[page 124]
Priming new drywall or concrete: If you are painting over new drywall or
concrete, you must use a latex primer, which is water-based. If you use an
oil-based primer (also called an alkyd primer), the surface of the drywall will be
too bumpy to create a smooth paint finish.
Priming raw wood: If you are painting over raw wood (wood that has not been
cured or dried out), use shellac as a primer. Shellac is a heavy-duty, alcoholbased sealer that will seal the resins in the wood. If they are not sealed, the
resins will bleed through the paint finish. We recommend B-I-N by Zinsser, which
is a stain-blocking shellac.
While other primers are applied in the same way as regular paint, you should
apply shellac using a foam brush. Be sure to get plenty of shellac on the brush
and apply good coverage over knots in wood. Also, remember that shellac is
toxic, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Priming new wood or plaster: Use oil-based primer, also called alkyd primer, on
new wood (wood that has been cured but not stained or painted), as well as on
plaster. Do not use latex primer, as it is water-based and will soak into the wood
and raise the grain, making an uneven surface.
Priming surfaces with existing paint: There are two reasons to prime a surface
that has existing paint. If you have made any repairs to peeling paint, holes, or
cracks, you will need to apply latex primer before applying your base coat. (Refer to the previous section on repairing peeling paint, as well as the subsequent
sections that follow.)
Most walls with old paint need some kind of repair in the preparation stage, and
therefore fit in this category.
The second reason to prime over existing paint is if the existing paint is alkyd (oilbased) and you will be working with latex (water-based) paint.
Dont know if the existing paint is oil- or water-based? Try this:
[page 125]
1. Apply a small patch of latex paint to the wall in question.

2. Let it dry overnight.
3. The next day, try to scratch the paint off with your fingernail. If it
comes off easily, it is oil-based, and you will need to apply primer
before painting.
As we mentioned previously, to apply primer on oil-based paint, you have two
options. You can either sand the surface before applying a latex primer, or you
can clean the surface thoroughly and then apply a special primer intended for
glossy surfaces, such as Bulls Eye 1-2-3, a water-based primer by Zinsser.
This product also works well for priming glass, tile, and formica.
Priming surfaces to which you have made repairs: Refer to the previous section on
repairing cracks and holes, sand your surface, then apply latex
(water-based) or alkyd (oil-based) primer. Matching latex primer to latex paint,
and oil primer to oil paint makes for easier cleanup, but it is not essential.
Taking the time to prime with a flat alkyd primer before applying latex paint
provides a better seal for the paint. Painting professionals swear by oil primer if
they use latex paint, but in our opinion, the combo of latex primer and paint is the
most viable, easy option for the do-it-yourself painter.
Priming surfaces from which you have stripped wallpaper: Follow the previous
tips for removing wallpaper and then apply latex (water-based) or alkyd (oil-based)
primer, as explained above.
Priming non-porous surfaces: Priming surfaces to which glossy latex paint, vinyl
wallpaper, or varnish have been applied requires a high-adhesion acrylic primer,
such as DTM Bonding Primer by Sherwin-Williams. Its manufactured to be a
metal primer, but it can be used to prime any non-porous surface.
High-adhesion primers are relatively new on the market and are excellent time
savers because they save you from stripping these paints, wallpapers, or
varnishes from the surface.
Priming metal: Vinyl Etch Primer by Resene is another great metal primer. You
must remove all rust from metal prior to priming it.
[page 126]
Priming laminate: If you want to paint over laminate, the best option is to use
a metal-adhering primer such as Vinyl Etch Primer by Resene. Note that it is not
practical to paint over laminate countertops because the wear and tear they
receive will not hold up to any primer on the market. You can, however, paint
laminate cabinets.
Priming a Stained Surface: Water, smoke, crayons, and grease can leave bad
stains that need to be handled with a specialized primer. Use a stain-killing
primer for these surfaces. We recommend Cover Stain by Zinsser. It comes in a
can, as well as in an aerosol spray, which is great for spot priming bad stains.
Sit n Summarize
Heres cheat sheet to help you select your primer:

concrete:
formica:
glass:
glossy painted surface
laminate:
metal:
new drywall:
new plaster:
new wood:
oil-based painted surface:
raw wood:
repaired painted surface:
stained surface:
tile:
vinyl wallpaper:
latex (water-based) primer

bonding acrylic primer, i.e., DTM Bonding Primer
etch primer, i.e., Vinyl Etch Primer by Resene
etch primer, i.e., Vinyl Etch Primer by Resene
latex (water-based) primer
oil-based (alkyd) primer
oil-based (alkyd) primer
primer for glossy surfaces, i.e., Bulls Eye 1-2-3
shellac, i.e., B-I-N by Zinsser
latex or alkyd primer
stain-killing primer, i.e., Cover Stain by Zinsser
[page 127]
Now, Its Your Turn

Hi Michael here.
I sincerely hope that Creative Stamping for Walls & Furniture has met your needs
Ive dedicated my company, ImagineQuest Information Products Inc., to creating
high-quality e-products that will make it easier than ever for you to put lifestyle
enhancing ideas into action.
But were always looking to improve. We want the next edition of Creative Stamping
for Walls & Furniture to be even better! Thats why Id love to hear from you.
Were there any areas of this book that you feel exceeded your expectations?
Were there any that fell short? Go ahead, we really do love hearing the good, the
bad, and the ugly. So
Just click on this link to share your thoughts mjh@home-decorating-madeeasy.com....
Youll be doing us and future readers a great service!
Thanks
[page 128]

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