Steel Patinas and Finishes - Ebook

Copyright 2010-11, Bill Worden, Steel F/X, LLC, All Rights Reserved. Distribution Prohibited.
Steel Patinas & Finishes

by Bill Worden, Steel F/X, LLC
A Comprehensive Guide to Steel Patinas, Coloring and

Special Effects.
Products, Tips, Tools, Tricks & Techniques That Will Elevate Your Work To a Higher
Level and Lead To Increased Profits & Customer Satisfaction.
Volume I
January, 2011
Revised June 2012
http://www.steelf-x.com/ - Steel F/X Main Website
www.steelfxpatinas.com/supplies.html - To Order Products, Patinas & Supplies.
1.800.710.1273
Steel Patinas & Finishes

Table of Contents
1. Safety, Warnings & Common Sense!
2. Proper Storage of Chemicals & Solutions
3. Work-Station Organization
4. Required Supplies, Equipment & Tools
5. Hot-Rolled vs. Cold-Rolled
6. Easy Dross Removal
7. Steel Surface Preparation
8. Sequencing & Timing of Patinas
Disclaimer
The information contained in this book is from the experience of the author. It is his
opinion that you can experience the same, similar or better results but should not be
considered a guarantee of any sort.
The results of the products mentioned in this book are that of experience by the
author and may vary depending on your level of experience, practice, patience,
artistic abilities & persistence.
Restriction of Liability
The author does not know the buyer, nor the buyers expertise, motivation,
dedication, or ability to follow through on the concepts & methodology contained
herein.
The author makes no claims, promises or guarantees that you will achieve your goals,
hopes, dreams, or wishes by adhering to the suggestions or techniques mentioned
within this book or with the products, tools & techniques used by the author.
No warranty of any kind, implied, expressed, or statutory, including but not limited
to the warranties of non-infringement of third party rights, title, merchantability,
fitness for a particular purpose and freedom from computer virus, is given with
respect to the contents of this book or its hyperlinks to other Internet resources.
Ownership
Contents of this book are written by the author and are copyrighted. You may print
the contents for your own personal use, but source/s must be shown and author must
maintain credit. Electronic Sharing of this book is prohibited. Failure to comply is
punishable by applicable law.
INTRODUCTION
The goal of this book is to share the knowledge and experience of metal-finishing
that I've gained over the past 35 plus years. In 1972, before many of you were born, I was
introduced to silversmithing and jewelry-making. The processes, chemicals & substances
used in that field for polishing and finishing was my first foray into coloring metal.
Some years elapsed before I got into making custom bits and spurs, many that were
inlaid or overlaid with silver embellishments. That was in the mid-90's and I purchased a
CNC plasma-cutting system to cut out pieces and parts for the bits and spurs.
By the time I got my Plasma-cutting System installed, I became so enamored (& sidetracked) with metal-art that I never cut out a single spur band or cheek-piece! So, from
2006 til the present, I have cut signs, silhouettes and architectural elements and done my
best to come up with methods of polishing, staining, and applying patinas & clear-coats to
my work. I felt from the very start that powder-coating, although it has it's place, was a
little too ordinary. I wanted my work to stand out among the crowd. And, it's my hope
that you will pick up some valuable tips, tricks & tidbits within this book that will make
YOUR work stand out, increase your customer's selections and ultimately make you more
profit per piece than you could make otherwise.
I will do my best in this book to put myself right beside you, in essence explain things
as if I were working right along side you at your shop, backyard, garage or wherever you
might be producing your own 'works of art'.
Q & A.
If you have questions, please feel free to call me for some personal attention or
Here's my contact information:

Bill Worden
Steel F/X
www.steelfxpatinas.com/supplies.html
bill@steelf-x.com
1.800.710.1273
Cell: 435.668.7244
Fax: 435.251.8111
Now, Let's get Started!
CHAPTER ONE
SAFETY, WARNINGS & COMMON-SENSE
Always Wear Rubber or Nitrile Elbow-Length Gloves When

Working With Patina Solutions or Acids of Any Kind.
Always Wear a Respirator That is OSHA/NIOSH Approved for Organic Vapors. I use
either a NORTH or 3M Half-Mask with replaceable pancake cartridges. Since
I wear glasses, I use a NORTH or 3M Full-Face Mask when spraying ClearCoatings.
Always Wear Approved Eye Protection. Either Safety Glasses or Goggles OVER
your Prescription Eye-wear. I've been to the ER with a piece of steel in my left
eye. No fun at all.
SAFETY, WARNINGS & COMMON-SENSE
Always Wear Splash-Protection Headgear When Transferring Patina Solutions,

Acidic Liquids or any other Caustic, Corrosive or Otherwise Dangerous Liquids.
Pretty handy when grinding, too.
Always Wear Hearing Protection with a minimum 25db rating, when Grinding or
Polishing Metal. In my methods of applying patinas, high pressure (150+p.s.i.)
Clean, Dry Shop-Air is a MUST! Unless you want to go deaf, the hearing
protectors are a real necessity when Force-Drying your steel between patina
steps!
CHAPTER TWO
PROPER HANDLING & STORAGE OF CHEMICALS AND
SOLUTIONS
This chapter will address the liquid chemicals, acids, patinas and paints that I use in
my shop. It may or may not cover all the products that you have in your particular
workspace. Please read all labels, MSDS, (Manufacturer's Safety Data Sheets), and follow
the recommendations by each respective manufacturer.
As for the Steel F/X Patina Liquid Solutions that I have blended and use in my shop,
it is important to keep them in the original, properly labeled containers when not in use.
It is, by all means, okay to transfer them into a clean plastic spray-bottle or dripbottle, but make sure that you label those smaller bottles with the contents. Never use the
same spray-bottle to add a different solution to, as there is always some leftover solution in
the pick-up tube or spray head.
The Liquid Solutions that I use and recommend are all photo-sensitive, so you should
store them in a cool, dry place when not in use. Keep them in a spot where they are not
subject to freezing, also. If you utilize chemicals from another source, please follow their
recommendations, as mine might not be applicable.
It almost goes without saying...Keep Away From Pets, Children & Unauthorized People!
When transferring a Patina Solution to a smaller quart-sized spray-bottle, please use
a clean, plastic funnel & do not overfill. The acids that make up the 'recipe' of each patina
are intrinsically, inherently dangerous when they are ingested, inhaled or splashed on your
skin. They're not as dangerous or potent as battery-acid, but you still need to treat them
with respect & caution.
Never Mix Two Or More Solutions Together!
CHAPTER THREE
WORK STATION ORGANIZATION
Organizing and maintaining your work area is of course a matter of personal
preference. There are certain basics though, that should be considered. I know from
personal experience that when all my chemicals, tools, air, water and bench are organized ,
I turn out better work. When I let myself get a little unorganized, I usually forget
something that causes me to have to start over.
Due to the very nature of the metal-finishing process, considering the liquids
involved, I'd highly recommend that your work station be located outdoors. Full-sun or
shade, it doesn't really matter, but located in an area that is not subject to high winds.
My personal preference for a work table is nothing fancy. It is a simple, woodtopped workbench that sits just outside my shop door. See photo below.
This Patina Bench was built by D. Jones & the photo was submitted to me recently.
CHAPTER FOUR
REQUIRED SUPPLIES, EQUIPMENT & TOOLS
A height of 28 - 34 is perfect for me, but you might find a height that suits your
situation better. I don't recommend a steel topped table for a couple of reasons.
1) You will be placing your steel art in a near-vertical position & the steel-on-steel is a
little slick, especially when wet.
2) Mild Steel, of course, will rust & you will be using high-pressure air & lots of water in
the neutralizing & rinsing stages. You don't want to blow any contaminants from the
work-bench onto your art piece.
In the next chapter we'll discuss the tools and provisions that you will need to get
started. Please read all the way through the book as it contains tips & tricks that you may
miss if you get started too quickly. I don't want you to waste chemicals, steel or your time,
so try to glean all the tidbits of information that you can before you actually start applying
the patinas to your work.
10
CHAPTER FOUR
Now, we're going to make sure we have all the necessary supplies, tools and
equipment to fully set up your work station for applying patinas.
First, you will need a garden hose & spray-nozzle. Trust me on this: don't use one
of those fancy self-coiling hoses. And, don't burden yourself with a 5/8 or 3/4
Contractor's Hose that's 100' ft. long and takes two men & a boy to move around.
The Best Hose for what you're going to be doing is a 15' 25,' 1/2 hose, like the ones
they use on R.V.'s. They're light, relatively kink-free & won't tangle you up like a cow in a
wire fence.
Spray heads come in a bazillion different configurations, too. Notice the one on the
left picture. It's my favorite. Tip: Keep a spare or two on hand. Believe me, you'll be
glad you did. It has many spray settings, but has two that I use the most: 'Shower' &
'Mist'. The sprayer in the right picture will ruin your work, guaranteed! Don't waste your
time with this type of sprayer.
The type of process that we'll be learning here is 100% Spray Method. Immersion is
an option that you're certainly welcome to experiment with, but I've tried it & don't like it.
In fact, I wouldn't even recommend it considering the fact that it sucks. It is such a waste
of space, container sizes that are never quite right, contaminated solutions, reclaiming
nightmare of straining & re-bottling left-over solution, etc., etc. I'm not a fan of it, if you
haven't noticed.
Let's talk about your Air Supply. You've got your water situation covered, now let's
11
discuss the importance of Clean, Dry, Oil-Free Shop Air. You will need 25' 50' of 1/4 Air
Hose with a High Quality Nozzle. If you have an automatic Oiler coming off your air
compressor, get rid of it. You will need a minimum of 125 psi Air, at the nozzle. (I set my
regulator at 160 psi.) I'd also encourage you to have a compressor that puts out at least
20 cfm.
CHAPTER FOUR
Not Recommended!
Very Good Nozzle
Best Nozzle
Both types of these recommended nozzles should be available at www.gemplers.com

and probably other sources as well.
The one on the right is made by Guard-air & is my favorite by far! They are
available in several different lengths, but you want the shortest one possible for the Patina
Work-Station. They use Vortex Design which accelerates the air-flow. They're the only
ones I'll use.
Not Recommended!
Highly Recommended!
12
Note: Air Supply Line From Compressor Can Be 3/8 or 1/2 but I highly recommend
1/4 hose at your work-station.
CHAPTER FOUR
This is the type of Air Filter/Water Separator/Regulator that I use. One on the
outlet of my Air Compressor and one where my work-bench, 1/4 Air Line & Nozzle are
located. The photo above/right shows the Quick-Connect Compression Fittings & Hose that
I use in my shop. Makes it really easy to add lines & fittings as your needs change.
I would highly recommend a Pressure-Regulator/Water Separator/Air Filter
mounted to your Air Compressor & another one on the outside of your shop, where you
connect your hose, in case you need to increase or decrease your air pressure.
13
CHAPTER FOUR
Selecting The Proper Air Preparation Unit

Air Preparation units are key elements in a compressed air line. Clean, regulated,
and/or lubricated compressed air is essential in all industries and applications. Air
preparation units prolong the life of tools, machinery, pneumatic controls, pneumatic
valves, etc., reducing maintenance and downtime costs. Each application should be
carefully reviewed; failure to do so can cause equipment damage or injury. The following
are common components of air preparation units.
Filter An air preparation unit designed to remove harmful contaminates such as pipe
scale, rust, and other airborne contaminates from a compressed air line. Such contaminates
can build up on internal surfaces which shorten the life of pneumatic devices
Coalescing Filter An air preparation unit designed to remove liquid or oil aerosols and sub
micron particles from a compressed air line.
Regulator An air preparation unit designed to regulate compressed air. They provide
pressure regulation for the various requirements of pneumatics devices and applications.
The variety of sizes and designs increase accuracy for the particular application.
Filter/Regulator An air preparation unit that combines the features and benefits of a
filter and regulator in one unit. Commonly called a Piggyback, this unit is an excellent
space saving unit for applications were space is limited.
14
CHAPTER FOUR
Great, now we've got our bench, water supply & air supply ready to use.
The next thing we'll need is Quart-sized Spray-bottles and the Patina Solutions.
The Spray-bottles HAVE to be plastic (HDPE) High-Density Polyethylene or Polyethylene
Terephthalate (P.E.T.) Do not use glass or metal spray-bottles!
Ultra-High Quality Chemical Resistant Spray-bottles, Funnels, Organic Vapor
Respirators, Tack Rags, etc. will be available on the Steel FX Website @
http://www.steelf-x.com/Supplies.html or call me @ 1.800.710.1273
ALWAYS USE SPLASH-RESISTANT FUNNEL WHEN TRANSFERRING LIQUID PATINA SOLUTION

FROM GALLON BOTTLE TO SPRAY-BOTTLES OR DRIP-BOTTLES!! WEAR RUBBER, LATEX
15
OR NITRILE GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION IN THE FORM OF GOGGLES OR FACE SHIELD!
We'll discuss the use of these different types of applicator bottles on the next page.
TIP: Always label your Applicator Bottles with a Permanent Marker as to the contents &
don't ever use it for anything else, even if you've rinsed it out & think it's clean. It's not!
Chapter 5
Hot-Rolled vs. Cold-Rolled
In this short chapter we'll discuss the Pros & Cons of readily available A36 Mild Steel
sheet & plate and it's properties only as it pertains to Patina Finishing.
Hot-Rolled Steel:
PROS
Relatively Inexpensive
Readily Available
CONS
Mill-Scale Removal Is a MUST!
Heavier Dross (Usually)
Shorter Consumable Life
PROS
Saves Time & $$ on Clean-Up
Longer Consumable Life
Much Easier to Polish
Less Dross than H.R.
CONS
More Costly Than H.R. Or P&O
PROS
Less Expensive than C.R.
Less Dross than H.R.
CONS
Oil Removal & Surface Preparation
More Costly Than H.R.
Cold-Rolled Steel:
P&O
Pickled & Oiled:
16
Chapter Six
Easy Dross Removal
Let's assume that you've been using your Plasma-cutting System for some time and
have all the settings and cut parameters pretty much dialed-in. When I first started
plasma-cutting, I needed a 30 lb. Jack-Hammer to get rid of the dross! Obviously, I didn't
have all my settings right & really struggled with the clean-up.
Even when your cut parameters are optimum, and especially if you're cutting HotRolled steel, there's bound to be some necessary dross removal. I truly believe I've tried
every grinder wheel on the market. Some of 'em more than once! Then, I finally
discovered a combination that is so dang quick, my clean-up time is next-to-nothing!
Here's what I use in my shop, and until something even better comes along, I'll
continue to use! I use a Makita 4-inch Grinder with a Norton AVOS Backup Pad & a
Norton 36-Grit Twist-On Disc. See Photos Below. AVOS is an acronym for: Allows Visibility
Over Surface. You can actually see THROUGH the disc as it's working! Amazing!
Makita 4 Grinder
NortonAVOS Backup Pad
NortonAVOS Discs.
Insert video link here:

WARNING: Please, please wear Safety Glasses and/or Goggles or Full-Face Shield when
using! This system will spit out chunks of dross like little high-velocity shrapnel. I wear a
leather apron as well. You don't have to 'bear down' with a lot of pressure...let the
abrasive do the work. I think you'll be astonished at how well it works for dross removal.
17
Chapter Six
Easy Dross Removal
If you are using primarily H.R. (Hot-Rolled) Steel, there is another little trick I'd like
to share with you.
Disclaimer: Use the following method with extreme care and use every recommended
safety precaution mentioned earlier in this book. Rubber Boots, Splash-Protection, EyeProtection, Organic Vapor Respiratory Protection, Rubber Gloves.
Warning: When mixing ANY Acid with Water, ALWAYS remember the AAA RULE!!
AAA = ALWAYS ADD ACID!
NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. THE RESULTING SPLASH POTENTIAL IS MUCH HIGHER THAN
ADDING ACID TO WATER.
Okay, with that said, here's the trick that only took me 5 years to figure out! Some
of you may already know it, but for those of you that don't, it's a real time saver.
In a Polyethylene Tub, sized large enough to hold your piece or pieces of plasma-cut
hot-rolled steel, mix up a 1:1 (50/50) Solution of Muriatic Acid and Clean Tap Water. No
need to stir, mix or play in it. Just mix it together, adding the acid after the water has
been put in. Put in enough that it completely covers the steel. I've had 20 or more pieces
in this tub, stacked on top of each other, many times. I usually put in 8-12 gallons of
Muriatic Acid & at least that much water. As evaporation takes place, which is mostly
water, not acid, just add more water. Depending on the amount of dross, you may want to
leave your pieces submerged for 24 hrs. or more.
This is a photo of the tub I use. It is a 250 Gallon Tub made by Rubbermaid
18
Chapter Six
Easy Dross Removal
Do Not Use A Metal Tub! And, here's a TIP: Keep your Acid Tub at least 50' or more
from any tools or anything else made of steel that you don't want ruined! The vapors,
while not terribly potent, will rust everything in sight! Keep a plastic or wood cover on it
when not in use and for Goodness Sakes, keep all children and pets away from it.
Muriatic Acid is not as scary or caustic as Sulfuric Acid (Battery-acid), it's used to
clean alkali & phosphorous deposits off concrete surfaces, swimming pools, etc., and you
can buy it at any hardware store for about $7 a gallon. But, it's still very dangerous,
especially if you're careless.
Now, you can carefully immerse your piece or pieces into the tank, complete with
the dross. It won't matter if the dross side is down or up, just make sure it's completely
submerged. Depending on the severity or amount of dross, you may have to leave it in the
tank for 12-24 hrs.
When you remove the piece of steel, be ready with the garden hose & nozzle set on
Shower mode and completely rinse BOTH sides of the piece. Now, it's imperative that
you move the piece to your work-bench and force-dry the piece with your shop air. You'll
notice now that when blasting the dross side of the piece with your air nozzle, most of the
dross will just blow right off. Dang, I wished I would've learned this about 5 years ago!
If you don't force-dry it right away, the piece will form flash-rust, which if left to
air-dry for a day or two, especially in the summer, will be harder to polish/sand off than
the original mill-scale!
MILL-SCALE REMOVAL
Your Acid-Bath will work extremely well for removing ALL mill-scale, too.
Depending on the strength or ratio of your mixture, anywhere from 15 minutes to
several hours & all traces of mill-scale will be removed. It's important though, to
remove your piece/s from the Acid-Bath and rinse forcefully with water to flush all the
blackish residue off. Then, it's also very critical to force-dry with shop air to prevent
any rusting, which can be almost as hard to remove with abrasives as the mill-scale
would have been.
19
Chapter Seven
Steel Surface Preparation
We're almost ready to apply Patina to your first piece. But, there's one more critical
step to accomplish. We've got to get the front side of the steel polished out & superclean! Don't worry, it's not that hard. If your piece is 3' wide & 2' tall, it's gonna take us
about 5 minutes or less. And, the better the polish, the brighter the polish, the better the
Patina will look.
If your steel surface is matted or dull, the Copper F/X, which is the foundation for
almost all the other patinas, will be pinkish..kind of salmony pink. And, in some cases,
that may be the effect your are after.
But, let's say we want a bright, shiny, new-penny copper look on the piece of art.
That's what we're going to prepare for right now.
Clamp your piece to your favorite work-bench or fab-table, gear up with the proper
PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), grab a hold of your 4 grinder & put a Norton Flap
Disc on it. If the steel is Cold-Rolled, go right for the 120 grit disc. See photos below.
4 - 4-1/2 Grinder & 120-Grit Flap Disc. Photos NOT TO SCALE
20
Examples of Polished Steel ~ Now Ready for Patina
21
Chapter Eight
Sequencing & Timing of Patinas
Copper F/X
Let's say we want to give our piece a bright copper-plated finish. We have the piece
of steel polished and placed in a near-vertical position on the work-bench. The first thing
we'll do is spray the piece with the garden hose nozzle, set on Shower. This removes
any grinding or polishing dust from the surface.
We don't want the piece dripping wet, setting in a puddle of water, so gently blow off
all excess water with you air nozzle, leaving the surface of the steel wet.
Now, with your quart sprayer, filled with Copper F/X, quickly and evenly spray the
solution onto the steel, staying away from the surface about 6-8. The Copper Plating is
instantaneous. No need to go back over any area that you've already sprayed with
Copper FX.
Immediately rinse with water. Rinse well, with the shower head and rinse both sides
to avoid any further etching on the back side of your piece.
Now, it is important to quickly force-dry the piece with shop air, so no flash-rust will
start to form on top of the copper-plating.
If we're not going to add darkening, bronzing effects with the Pewter F/X or flameheated effects with Torch F/X, your piece is ready for thorough drying, tack-ragging &
clear-coating.
22
If your work is to be just copper-plated, then the following information is relatively

immaterial. But, if we're going to add some more color, in the form of bronzes, goldenbrowns, reds, blues & blacks, this chapter will explain the sequencing.
BRONZING: (Using Pewter F/X on TOP of Copper F/X)
As shown in the photos above, darker bronze highlights have been added to the
copper-plating. This is very easy to achieve. As soon as you've neutralized (rinsed) the
Copper F/X, blow off any excess water, (it's okay if the surface is still wet) and spray, drip
or dribble the Pewter F/X into small areas at a time. You won't flood the whole piece
with the Pewter F/X, just work in areas that you want to darken. You'll see almost
immediate results and you need to be ready to neutralize (rinse) when the level of bronzing
is to your liking.
It's far better to rinse too soon than to wait too long & have the bronzing too dark.
You can always layer (add more solution) to darken the desired areas in steps or stages.
When you get the level of darkening or bronzing that you like, rinse, rinse, rinse. You want
to rinse BOTH sides of your work & immediately force-dry with clean, dry shop air.
NOTE: Do NOT use a heat-gun to force-dry your work! The heat will inevitably darken the
tone & hue of the patina that you've just applied. And, depending on the quality of your shop
air and whether or not your air compressor is equipped with a dryer and/or cooler, even the
shop air can get pretty warm. That's still far better than a 1250 degree heat gun. Heat is the
enemy here because of the flash-rust & darkening that will occur.
Chapter Eight
23

TORCH F/X:
(Torch F/X Over Copper F/X)
As shown in the photo above, Torch F/X has been applied in specific areas OVER
the base patina, which of course is Copper F/X. Those are the only two patinas used in
the above photo.
Although the photograph shows primarily a 'flame-blue' color, the initial reaction of
the Torch F/X will be reds, quickly turning to varying shades of blue.
It is VERY important to apply, either by spray-bottle or drip-bottle, very gingerly.
You can actually wash away the copper-plating to reveal your underlying steel if you
spray or apply to vigorously. A very gentle spray in a very small area to start is the
preferred method. It won't take long at all to 'get a feel' for the proper amount & duration
of time needed to get the effect that you want. It will take a little bit of trial & error,
maybe even a few do-overs before you find the technique & finesse that you are most
comfortable using.
Again, when the color you want is achieved, rinse well (neutralize) and force-dry
your piece. If you let it air-dry, it will darken, flash-rust, change colors & be ruined. The
whole key to patina application with acid-based solutions is being organized, working
quickly, rinsing & drying in an expedient method. Then, after complete surface drying is
achieved, your piece will be ready for sealing and/or clear-coating.
Chapter Eight
24

BLACK F/X
(Black F/X Over Copper F/X)
As shown in the photo above, the darker 'mottling' or spots are done with
Black F/X. Black F/X is one solution that you will use very, very sparingly. It will
instantly turn your copper-plating or even bare, polished steel solid black if you're not
careful.
There are several creative ways to apply the Black F/X, but the method I use the
most is to lay my piece of steel flat on my work-bench. Then, with the spray-bottle set on
the finest mist possible, I hold the bottle upright several feet above the steel, spray a fine
mist and let it rain down on the steel.
Chapter Eight
25

I've even been known to set the Black F/X spray-bottle to stream, stand back 810 feet & bounce or ricochet the stream off the work-bench, letting the droplets 'splash'
upward, onto the steel.
Of course, with this method, your piece of art should be vertical or leaned back a
few degrees. If you're too aggressive with this trick, it will splatter too much Black F/X
and it will run down the piece, leaving runs that don't look too artistic or attractive.
26
Chapter Eight
RUST F/X
(Applied to Clean, Bare Steel)
In the photo above, Rust F/X was applied to H.R. Steel with the mill-scale still in
place, then the edges were lightly sanded to reveal the steel below the rust patina.
Typically, you will spray or dip your clean, bare steel with Rust F/X and DO NOT
RINSE! Let it dry for 12-24 hrs. You can then apply more for a darker rust, or wet the
piece with water & let air-dry til you get the degree and color of rust that you want.
When using Rust F/X, you will NOT need to Force-Dry with shop air.
27
Note From Author:

Thank you for purchasing this e Book on Steel Patinas & Finishes.
I hope that you have gleaned at least one or two tricks or tips that will help you
improve your craft & increase your profits. Metal-working is very rewarding & my hope
is that you will keep trying new things & develop your own style & signature work.
Along with this book as a guide, you now have unlimited toll-free phone support by
calling me at: 1.800.710.1273
My email is: bill@steelf-x.com
All my best and to your continuing success,
Bill D. Worden,
STEEL F/X
28

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Copyright 2010-11, Bill Worden, Steel F/X, LLC, All Rights Reserved. Distribution Prohibited.

Steel Patinas & Finishes

A Comprehensive Guide to Steel Patinas, Coloring and

Steel Patinas & Finishes

Here's my contact information:

Now, Let's get Started!

Always Wear Rubber or Nitrile Elbow-Length Gloves When

SAFETY, WARNINGS & COMMON-SENSE

Always Wear Splash-Protection Headgear When Transferring Patina Solutions,

Never Mix Two Or More Solutions Together!

Very Good Nozzle

Both types of these recommended nozzles should be available at www.gemplers.com

Selecting The Proper Air Preparation Unit

ALWAYS USE SPLASH-RESISTANT FUNNEL WHEN TRANSFERRING LIQUID PATINA SOLUTION

NortonAVOS Backup Pad

Insert video link here:

4 - 4-1/2 Grinder & 120-Grit Flap Disc. Photos NOT TO SCALE

Examples of Polished Steel ~ Now Ready for Patina

If your work is to be just copper-plated, then the following information is relatively

Sequencing & Timing of Patinas

Sequencing & Timing of Patinas

Sequencing & Timing of Patinas

Note From Author:

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