How to build a Greenhouse

This is the imperial (ft and ins)version

Click here for the metric version   Page 1 of 2  

ARTICLE CONTENTS   -   User Comments/Photos

Description
STEP 1. The greenhouse base
STEP 2. The side walls
STEP 3. The roof frames
STEP 4. The end walls
STEP 5. The windows
STEP 6. The doors
STEP 7. The greenhouse cover
Materials and quantities

Description
This greenhouse, approx 8ft wide x approx 10ft long , is lightweight, portable (can be fixed more
permanently if required), inexpensive and easy to construct. The cover is clear UV-resistant
polythene film. This greenhouse is ideal for those areas with a tendency to have just enough
winter frosts to be annoying.

Lumber and lumber size. The lumber used in this project is 'sawn' also called rough sawn or
rough lumber. That means that the lumber has not been dressed (surfaced, planed or gauged). If
you prefer to used dressed lumber, then the sizes (width and thickness) of the lumber will differ.
For example; a piece of 2"x 3" lumber when dressed will end up being approximately 1 1/2" x 2
1/2". If you use dressed lumber some measurement adjustments will need to be made to
compensate for the difference in lumber size.

Where to place the greenhouse.

Pick a site likely to get the winter sun. The site should not be in an area likely to be boggy and
should be level or in a place that is easy to make level. If the site is below a hill or slope, then it
might be necessary to put in a drain (open, tile or scoria) to re-direct any water flow away from
the greenhouse site.

STEP 1. The greenhouse base

Once the level greenhouse site has been determined, make the base which is constructed out of
4"x4" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber.

Make a rectangle 94-1/2" x 118" as shown in the drawing above. Fix the lumber together in the
corners by using galvanized nails and nail plates.

Check that the two diagonal measurements are equal. If they are not, make any necessary
adjustments. When the diagonals are equal, then the base is square.

Check that the base is level, either by using a spirit level and a straight edge or by using the
water level method

Secure the base in place by driving stakes into the ground around the perimeter.
Nail the stakes to the base and cut flush any stakes protruding higher than the base lumber.

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STEP 2. The side walls

Construct all the framing out of 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber.

On a flat piece of ground, make two side wall frames as per dimensions shown in the drawing
above.

Make the diagonal measurements equal (in the same way as with the base in Step 1) and when
the walls are square, cut and fix the bracing members in place. (See above drawing.)

Stand the two side walls upright and temporarily prop up in place on top of the base. Fix the
bottom plate of the side walls to the base boards with galvanized nails.

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STEP 3. The roof frames

Cut all roof frame pieces as per dimensions shown above. Use 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-
resistant, sawn lumber.

In all, cut 5 rafters @ 74-3/4", 5 rafters @ 51-1/2" and 5 uprights @ 12-7/8" all with end angle
cuts as shown in drawing.

Also cut five triangular gussets 19-5/8" x 19-5/8" x 19-5/8" from a sheet of 3/8" treated plywood.

On a flat piece of ground, make up the five roof frames to the pattern and dimensions as shown
in above drawing. Ensure the two furthest points are 94-1/2" apart and then nail the triangular
gussets in place with galvanized flathead nails spaced about 2" apart, one gusset to each roof
frame.

Lift the 5 roof frames in place on top of the side walls, one roof frame to each end of the side
walls and the other three spaced evenly in between. Fix the roof frames to the side wall top plate
with galvanized nails.

Temporarily prop the two end roof frames plumb (vertical).

Nail the fascia board (1x6) to the top of the roof frames as shown in the drawing below, making
sure all the roof frames are vertical and parallel with each other.

Fix the window support plate (2"x3") in place under the roof frame apex and behind the fascia
board. (See drawing below.)

Brace the roof on the side that has no windows. Nail metal strapping from the apex of both end
roof frames down to the middle of the side wall top plate.
STEP 4. The end walls   Page 2 of 2  

Ensure side walls are plumb (vertical)

For all wall framing lumber, use 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber.

Cut studs (a) to size and fix in place. They should be 27-1/2" apart to allow for the door.

Cut top plates (b) and (c) to size and fix in place.

Cut bottom plates (d) to size and fix in place.

Measure, cut and fix the bracing members (e) in place.

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STEP 5. The windows

For the windows use 2"x2" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber for the top and
bottom frames and 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber for the side and middle
mullions.

Angle cut the bottom of the window frame 30 degrees (the same pitch as the roof).

Make two windows as per dimensions above. Fix in place with two butt hinges on each window
screwed to the top frames of the windows and the window support plate.

Fit a window latch to each window.

Measure, cut and fix a row of nogs* (*blocking, short pieces of lumber set between the rafters)
below the window and in between the roof frames as per the above drawing.

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STEP 6. The doors

Make the doors (2, one each end of the green house) as per above dimensions.

Use 2"x2" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber for the frames and cut the gussets
from 3/8" treated plywood.

Make the door frames up on an even piece of ground. Ensure frames are square and then nail the
gussets in place on both sides of the doors.

Hinge the doors in place and fit handles or padbolts of your choice.

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STEP 7. The greenhouse cover

Cover the greenhouse with UV-resistant polythene.

Hold the coverings in place by laying thin battens (strips of wood) over the polythene (ensuring
the polythene is taut) and nailing the battens to the greenhouse studs, roof rafters or any other
solid member.

Cover the doors and windows also.

Most hardware merchants or garden suppliers only stock the standard plastic polythene that is
not UV resistant but they should be able to advise you where to get the polythene required for the
greenhouse covering.

One source that might be worth looking at for cover (USA) is Tyco Plastics

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Materials and quantities

Item Description
330ft of 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber framing; rip down for battens, doors and windows
Misc nails, plates, strapping, hinges, handles etc
36ft of 4"x4" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber base
10ft of 1"x6" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber fascia
4ft x 8ft x 3/8" thick treated plywood gussets
350sq ft ultra-violet-resistant polythene covering

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User comments/photos

My wife and I love to spent time outside in our ever expanding garden so we thought a greenhouse, using
your plans, would be a great addition to our planting hobby. The greenhouse plan was simple, well laid
out and easy to understand. I am sure that we will enjoy it for many years to come.
Kevin & Valerie Cowan   Upstate South Carolina   Photo
Hi there, A lot of good projects and plans to find here. Here is a pic of our Greenhouse.
It works really good. Costs were around 160,- Euro.
Thanx Alex & Stefan   Photo
Hi. Just a few photos of the greenhouse I built according to your plans last fall. Only modification was to
add 6 inches to the wall height. Did not have treated lumber for 2 by 3's so stained it with a green
preservative (copper napthenate). I covered it with a clear (translucent) woven poly. cheers,
Andrew   Photo
I thought I would send in two pictures of my greenhouse I built with your plans. I am in America, so I had
to convert to English measurements. Thanks for the inspiration. We love it!
M. H.
Austin, TX, USA   Photo
I have just completed a greenhouse from you plan, and I am very happy with the results,
I used PVC panels rather than Poly. Photo attached,
Ken Taylor