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SomeTipsfortheLongDistanceTraveller
GhaithAbdulAhad
AKurdishfriendofmineinSulaymaniyahinnorthernIraqrecentlypostedanimageofa
handdrawndiagramonhisFacebookpage.Withlittlearrowsandstickfiguresandpictures
ofatrainandboatortwo,thediagramshowshowtogetfromTurkeytotheGermanborder
intwentyeasysteps.AfteryouvemadethethousandmiletriptowesternTurkey,thejourney
properbeginswithataxitoIzmironthecoast.Anarrowpointstothenextstage:aboat
acrosstheAegeantoaGreekisland,costingbetween950and1200.Anotherboattakes
youtoAthens.AtrainlookinglikeamangledcaterpillarleadstoThessaloniki.Walking,
busesandtwomorewormliketrainstakeyouacrossMacedoniatoSkopje,andthenthrough
SerbiatoBelgrade.AstickfigurewalksacrosstheborderintoHungarynearthecityof
Szeged.ThenitsontoBudapestbytaxi,andanothertaxiacrossthewholeofAustria.Atthe
bottomofthepagealittlebluestickfigureisjumpingintheairwavingaflag.Hehasarrived
inGermany,sayinghellotoMunich,afterajourneyofsomethreethousandmiles,taking
perhapsthreeweeks,atatotalcostof$2400.

MigrationisthetopicofalmosteveryconversationinthecafsofBaghdadandDamascus
intownslargeandsmallacrossSyriaandIraqandbeyondalongwiththeprosandconsof
socialaidgiventomigrantsindifferentcountries.Thebestroutesarecommonknowledge,
andinformationonnewdevelopmentsanduptodateadvicespreadsquicklyonsocial
media,viaViber,WhatsAppandFacebook.ThesedaysallyouneedtoreachEuropearea
coupleofthousanddollarsandasmartphone.Itsasignificantchangefromthelate1990s,
wheninIraqatleastUNsanctionscombinedwiththeconditionsofSaddams
dictatorshipmeantitwasbarelypossibletogetby,existencedependingongovernment
handoutsandmeagrestatesalaries.FewhadthemoneytoreachEurope.Tensofthousands
leftIraqbutmostlanguishedindullAmmaninJordan.MostpeopleIknewwantedtoleave,
andmostfailedforlackoffunds,willorsimpleluck.
Iwasoneofthosewhofailed.Ihadfinishedmydegreeinarchitectureandwasdesperateto
continuemystudiesinViennaorBeirut,oratleasttogetahalfdecentjobinAmmanor
Dubai.Iwasamilitarydeserter,soIhadnohopeofobtainingapassport:myonlywayoutof
Iraqwasbyprocuringfakedocumentsorfindingasmuggler.Itriedforthreeyears.Ispent
nearly$3000thenafortuneonfeestosmugglers.Iwasliedto,betrayed,andconnedout
ofmoneyIhadborrowed.ForninemonthsIlivedwithmybagspacked,readytogo,and
everynightImadeacalltothesmuggler,whokeptlyingandsayingthatthenextdaywasthe
day.Eventually,Igaveupandunpackedmybagsandwaitedanotherfiveyears.
Fordecades,thepathsthatledoutofwar,destructionandpovertyintothesafetyoflifein
Europewasacloselyguardedsecret,thepropertyofsmugglersandmafiaswhocontrolledthe
routesandhadamonopolyonthenecessaryknowledge.Theyconductedtheirillicittradeout
ofdingycafsinthebackstreetsofAksarayinIstanbulandfortheluckyfewwhoreached
GreecethedistrictofOmoniainAthens,wherethosewhohadgotthatfarwerehandedon
fromonenetworktoanother,tobeliedtoandmanipulatedagain.Afterall,theyhadno
choicebuttohandovertheircashinexchangeforapromiseandahope.
Thisyeareverythingchanged.AtrickleofmigrantshadalwayscrossedtheAegean,an
undesirableroutenotbecauseofchoppywatersandunsoundboatsbutbecauseofthe
thuggishGreekpoliceandtheremoteprospectofgainingasyluminAthens.Thetrickle
turnedintoastreamwhenthenewSyrizagovernmentrewrotetherules.Thepolicyusedto
be:returntheboatsevenifweputlivesindanger,acoastguardofficialonLesbostoldme.
Withthisgovernmentits:No,letthemcomein,andhelpthemiftheyneedhelp.Turkey,
too,wasnowturningablindeyetothemigrants,andtheoldsmugglersnetworksandtightly
controlledbordersintoEuropegavewayundertheweightoftensofthousandsofpeople.
SyrianspreviouslydisplacedacrossJordan,LebanonandTurkeywerejoinedbyIraqis
mostlyyoungSunnisfleeingIslamicStateandShiamilitiasalongwithasmallpercentage
ofAfghans,EritreansandPakistanis,allescapingtheirownconflicts,allseekingoutthenew
routesinthehopeofbetterlives.ThemobilisationtechniquesusedintheArabSpring,which
broughtthousandsofdemonstratorstoagivenplace,werenowbeingusedtoorganisethe
newwavesofmigration.Thiswasnolongeranexodusofthewretchedanddowntrodden
thoughmanystillwerebutapilgrimage,predominantly,oftheyoung,educatedandmiddle
class.ThebreakingdownofEuropesborderslefttwogroupsofpeopleangryandstruggling
tofindawaytorestoretheoldorder:thesmugglers,andEUofficials.
*
EarlyonemorningontheislandofLesbos,ashortgreyhairedmanparkedhismotorbike
underapinetreeandsatdownonapebblybeachlitteredwithabandonedlifejackets
orange,redandblue.Thecarcasesofrubberdinghieslaynearby.Inthedistance,ontheother

sideofthechannel,theTurkishmountainsweregloomy:thedaywasovercast.Themancame
tothebeacheverymorning,andsatandwaitedforthemigrantsboatstoarrive.Occasionally
hescannedthehorizonwithapairofoldmilitarybinocularsthathungfromhisneck.Twoof
hisfriendssatatatabletheyhadsetupalittlewayback,drinkingcoffee.Theywereall
fishermen,butnow,likemanyothersontheisland,theyhadbecomescavengers,rippingthe
outboardmotorsoffthearrivingdinghies.Thelawoftheseastipulatesthatyoucankeep
whateveryoufinddriftingin.
SometimestheysendthemwithbadChineseengines,themansaid,outofconcernnotfor
themigrantssafetybutforthepricethefindwouldfetch.Forthethreementhemigrants
werenauseatingfilthfromoverthere,butwitheachoutboardmotorbringinginacoupleof
hundredeurostheywerehappytoformareceptioncommitteeofasortforthenewarrivals.
Businesseseverywherewereflourishingthankstothecurrentexodus.InKaraky,theold
portareainIstanbul,outdoorsupplyshopsthatuntilrecentlywereclingingonthroughsales
ofafewfishingrodsweresuddenlydoingaroaringtradepeddlinglifejacketsanddinghy
motors.
Asthesunclimbedhigherfourdotsappearedonthehorizon,headingoutfromtheTurkish
coastinawellmarshalledline:anoperationconductedwithmilitaryprecision.Thedots
grewintoboats.Threetackedtotheeastandoneheadedstraighttowardswherethemanwas
waiting.Asingleenginewasntanythingtocomplainabout:itwasstillearlymorningand
whoknewhowmanymorewouldcomeoverthecourseoftheday?Buthalfanhourlaterthe
boatseemedhardlytohavemoved.Somethingswrong,themantoldhisfriends.Through
hisbinocularshecouldmakeoutredandbluedotsandarmsfranticallywaving.Theengines
broken,hesaid.
Thethreemenjumpedonthemotorbikeanddroveofftotrytocatchupwiththeboatsthat
hadheadedtotheeast.Bythetimethebikecaughtupwiththem,alongtrainofpeople
menstompingunderbackpacks,womencarryinganddraggingchildrenwasmakingitsway
intoavillageafterclimbingthecliffsbelow.Therewereahundredofthem,orafewmore,the
cargoofthethreeboatsthefourthwasbeingtowedtoshorebytheGreekcoastguard.The
men,womenandchildrenfilledthevillagestreets,takingoverthepavements,restingonthe
grass,changingthelandscape.Eventuallytheygathereduptheirbelongingsandstartedtheir
walktoMytilene,Lesbossmaintown,whereallmigrantsarerequiredtoregisterbefore
beingtakentoAthens.
ThelongmarchintoEuropehadbegun.ThiswasacaravanofethnicclustersAfghans,
Arabs,Kurdsallthreadedtogetheralongthetarmac.Theorderoftheclusterschanged
dependingonwhowasrestingandwhowasmovingonsometimestheyspreadoutovera
kilometreandsometimestheycametogetherinamass,intimidatingthetouristsandthe
locals.Twogroupsofwalkersmeteachother,travellinginoppositedirections:ontheone
side,headingawayfromtownandintothewildernesswasagroupofEuropeanpensioners
GermansandBritsalldressedinbrightoutdoorgear,stoutbootsandTshirts.Theyall
lookedanxious.Intheotherdirectioncamethemigrants,marchingtothetown,many
leavingtheircountriesforthefirsttime,alltiredfromthedangerouscrossingbutendlessly
chirpy,alltalkingabouttheirplansforthejourneyahead.Theydidnthavetimetoadmire
thescenery.IfIwasatouristherethiswouldhavebeenagreatplacetovisit,saidaman
walkingwithhisdaughterastheypassedthroughanotherpicturesquevillageandits
orchards.Maybeonedaywecouldcomebackwithyourbrotherandsister.
HisnamewasKhaled.Hehadsadeyesandhisprematurelywhitehairwascutshort.He
didntseemconfidentofwhathewasdoing,andkeptaskinghisdaughterifshewasOK.She

lookedabout12.Sherarelyrespondedbut,unlikehim,shewasntfazed,andjustkeptgoing.
TheyattachedthemselvestoagroupofSyrians,butsatafewfeetawayandwalkedalittle
waybehind.HesaidtheywereheadingtoDenmark,wherehisbrotherinlawlived.Hespoke
inathickIraqiaccentbutsaidhewasfromMayadin,aSyriantownclosetotheIraqiborder.
HeandhisfamilyhadfledafterIslamicStatetookcontrolofMayadinearlyintheyear,buthe
wasuncomfortabletalkingaboutthesituationinhishometown.Hiswife,anotherdaughter
andasonwerestillinTurkey.
OntheGreekislands,itsforbiddentotransporttheillegals.Theyarentallowedonbusesor
intaxislocalswerethreatenedwithfinesforpeoplesmugglingsotheyhavetowalkthe
fortykilometrestotheregistrationcentres.WhenatallblondeGreekgirlcamealongtooffer
Khaledandhisdaughteraride,helookedoversheepishlyatthegroupofSyriansandsaid:
Wearrivedtogether,itwouldbeashametoabandonthem.Wewillwalkontogether.After
anotherhourunderthesun,though,thedaughterwasgrowingvisiblyweaker,sowhenthe
Greekgirlofferedarideagainheaccepted.Inthecar,Khaledbecamemoreanimated.He
askedhisdaughtertobringoutherKindle,andshepassedoveratablettoshowtheGreek
somepicturesoftherestofthefamily.
TherewerepoliceatthegatesoftheportatMytilene.Itwasearlyafternoon.Hundredsof
migrantshadsettledinaqueuemanyhadbeenheresincethenightbefore.Thosestill
walkingafterthemorninglandingsatthebeachwouldntarrivebeforedark.Here,aLibyan
fatherandfivechildrenhadmadeahomebetweentwoparkedcars.TwodozenSomalisand
Afghanswereatthewatersedge,thoughmostjustsatinthemiddleoftheroad.Eachperson
hadtobeprocessedandthentakentoacampinadisusedplayground,wheretheywaited
beforebeingtransferredtoAthens.
TheGreekgirlpushedthroughthecrowdsandtalkedherwaypastthepoliceline.Shecame
backafewminuteslaterandtookKhaledandhisdaughterinsidewhereadoctorfromthe
InternationalOrganisationforMigration,aUNaffiliatedbody,inspectedthegirl.Thedoctor,
anItalianwomaninherfifties,hadbeeninmanyplacesofcrisis,buttherewassomething
aboutthewaythefatherheldhisdaughtershandthatmadehercry.Sheaskedthefatherfor
hispassportsoshecouldexpeditetheirclaims.Hefroze,andsaidtheydidnthavepassports.
YoureSyrians,right?
Yes.
Thenitwonttakelong.TheGreekshookhandswiththemandlefttheminside.
Soonafterwards,Khaledcamebackoutandcalledtoher.
Imsorry,hesaid.
Whathappened?sheasked.
Ilied.IamIraqi,notSyrian,hesaid.Mydaughtertoldmeitwaswrongtolietopeoplewho
havebeenhelpingus.Iwasscared.WeareShia,andtheSyrianswetravelledwithwereall
Sunnis.Imsorry.Ithadbeenasounddecisiontokeepquiet:scufflesbetweenethnicgroups
arecommon.Butitwasnttheonlyreasontolie.Syriansgetpreferentialtreatmentinmost
places:inGreece,theycanstayinthecountrylongerafterreceivingtheirpapersitsone
monthforanAfghan,fourforaSyrian.
TheblondeGreekbelongedtoasmallgangofpeopleworkingtosubvertEUbureaucracy.
Theymetinaroomonthegroundfloorofabuildingstillunderconstructioninavillageon
theoutskirtsofMytilene.Thegangincludedafloristwhospentherhardearnedcashonfuel

soshecouldferrywomenandchildrenacrossthehillsandintothetown,twodoctorswho
hadvolunteeredtotreatthenewarrivalsinthemorningonthebeachesandsmugglethem
intoMytileneatnightunderthecoverofdarkness,acoastguardofficialwhoworkedinthe
mainreceptioncentreduringthedayandwhointheeveningswhenhewasntplaying
volleyballwouldgoouttohelpthemigrants.Theleaderofthegangwasanimposingpriest
withachestlengthwhitebeard:FatherPapastratis,whowalkedarounddragginganoxygen
bottleandtubesstrappedtohisnostrils.Hewas58butlooked70hehadhardlyanyuseof
hislungsandhadhadtwostrokes.Hesmokedanoccasionalcigarettewhenhissonwasnt
looking.
LongbeforethecrowdsinBudapestandViennastarteddonatingfoodandclothingtothe
refugees,andwhilethelocalgovernmentonLesboswasstillworkingoutwhattodo,this
gangofsixwasrunningitsownunofficialreceptioncentre,providingfood,shelterand
medicinetothenewarrivals.Thefloristtoldmethatmanypeopleontheislandwere
descendantsofrefugeesdrivenoutofTurkeydecadesago.Shespokewhiledrivingdown
fromthehillswithanotherfamily.OnthebackseatofherRenaultamotherclosedhereyes
andfellasleepwithachildonherlapnexttoherwerethreemorechildrenbetweentheages
ofnineand14.ShetookthemintoFatherPapastratissreceptioncentreamanhadarrived
fromAthensandwasunloadingacarpackedwithpots,astoveandbagsofpasta.Hesetupa
mobilekitchenastheroomfilledup.Costaswasananarchistwhohadbeenfeedingthe
homelessinAthensforacoupleofyears.TheMarxistandtheOrthodoxpriestmadeanodd
team.
UnlikeFatherPapastratissbuilding,thegovernmentrunreceptioncentreinthedisused
playgroundwasamiserableplace,withrubbisheverywhere.Fightswerebreakingout
betweenSyrians,AfghansandSomalis.TwoEritreanwomenwerecomplainingofsexual
harassment.Themanfromthecoastguardthepriestseldestsonstoodinthemiddleofa
crowdofpeopleallshoutingdemandsathim:aSyrianfamily,themotherillwithcancertwo
AfghanscomplainingthatsomeSyrianswouldntletthemchargetheirphonesanAfghan
womanwhosaidherchildhaddiarrhoeaandneededpills.Everyonewantedtoknowwhen
theycouldleavetheisland.Whyareyoutreatinguslikethis?someoneasked.WhatcanI
do?hesaid.Theywantmetobetheirmother,theirfriend,theirpsychologist,andImjusta
coastguard:thisismadness.FucktheEU.
*
FollowingtheroutelaidoutbymyFacebookfriend,mostofthesemigrantswouldstopbriefly
inAthensandthentravelontoThessaloniki.Itsasixhourwalkfromthetrainstationthere
totheMacedonianborder.Nexttoadesertedpetrolstationusedbynoone,sincefuelis
cheaperontheothersideoftheborderisatwostoreymotel,aplacetorest,buyprovisions
andchargeupyourphone.Presumably,thisplacewasonceasdesertedasthepetrolstation
butnowitwasamoderndaycaravanserai,thelobbystackedhighwithoverpricedcanned
food,trainers,backpacksandbottledwater.TwoelderlyGreekcookswereladlingoutbeans
andricefor10aplate.Everytable,chairandcornerwasoccupied.AgroupofSyrianssat
smokingandnatteringawaynexttothematablefullofEritreansdrankbeerinsilence.The
patronofthemotelwaschargingroundinarageshoutingorders,behavingasifhisfine
establishmenthadbeeninvadedbyverminratherthanclients.Businesswassogoodthat
neighbouringtavernasandplaceswithroomstolethadallhungoutsignsinmisspelled
Arabicinthehopeofluringinsomeofthenewclientele.Mostofthemigrantshadmoneyto
spendanddidntmindtheprices.Theyhadcomewithafewthousandeuros,cashfrom
housesandcarssoldbackhometofundthejourneytoEurope.Beingcharged5foracanof

Cokewasatrivialexploitationcomparedtothethousandorsoeuroseachhadhadtopayfor
atriponaninflatabledinghythatwouldhavecost15onaferry.
Fromthemotel,themigrantsfollowedatrackintoopenfields.Thousandshadbeenthisway
alreadyandtheearthwaspackedhard.Womeninheadscarvesandanklelengthskirtstrod
carefully,shepherdingtheirchildren.BehindthemwasagroupofSyrianhipstersinPanama
hatsandTshirts,universitygraduatesfromHomsandDamascus,oneofthemanetwork
engineerwhoplannedtogotoBritain.TherewasaSomaliincowboyhat,leathertrousers
andanecklacehewashighonhashishandspokeingangstaEnglish.
TherewasalsoaSyrianfamily:father,motherandthreelittlegirls.Bassem,thefather,was
carryingtheyoungestgirlonhisshoulders.Hehadoncebeenawelloffmerchantinthe
outskirtsofDamascushisfamilyownedalargeamountofagriculturalland.Whenthe
revolutionbeganin2011heusedhismoneytobankrollthefightersandbecamea
commanderinthesubsequentcivilwar.Ispent$300,000onweaponsandammunition,he
said,andIlostmanyfriends.Iregretitall.WhenhisareawasbesiegedhefledtotheBekaa
ValleyinLebanontolielowbutsoongotintotroublewithHizbullah.Hisbrotherwas
detainedandhewasnearlycapturedhimself.FromLebanonhewenttoTurkey,wherea
fellowrevolutionarycumsmugglerpromisedtogethimandhisfamilyonaferrytoItalyfor
10,000.Thecomradetookthemoneyandvanished.Ofallthemoneyhedlost,hesaid,that
hurtthemost.Hespokecalmly,wasntbitter,butsaidhefeltashamedthathedhadtosell
hiswifesjewellerytogethere,onlytomakehisgirlssleepinfields.
TheGreekpolicehadabandonedtheborder,havinglearnedearlyonthatratherthantryto
stoptheflowitwasbettertoletitmoveasquicklyaspossible.Afterall,noonewantedtostay
inGreece.ItwouldtakeweeksfortheMacedonianstolearnthesamelesson.Forthisgroup
ofmigrants,theobviousroadaheadwasblocked:aLandRoverandfiveMacedonian
policemenstoodintheirway.Soseveralhundredpeoplehadtomovealongtherailwayline
tofindaplacetospendthenight.Somelaidoutsleepingbagsunderabridge,othersputup
improvisedtentsmadefromplasticsheetsandsticks.Inthemorning,asmorepeoplearrived
toturntheimpromptucampintoavillage(womenfromSierraLeone,aYemeniina
wheelchair,manymoreSyriansandIraqis),afewselfappointedscoutswalkedupanddown
theborderlookingforasafepath.Totherightofthepolicewasariverthatcouldntbe
crossedandtothelefttherewerehillswhich,itwassaid,werepatrolledbybanditswhowere
demanding200fromanyonetheycameacross,havingboughtthearea.TwoyoungKurds
freshfromthebattlesofKobaniwentoffintothehillstoseeiftheycouldfindawaythrough.
AtabendinatrackjustbeforeanabandonedGreekpolicepost,oneofthemspottedapath
throughthebushes,leadingtoMacedonia.Wordwassentthatawayhadbeenfound.
Anhourlateracolumnofpeoplewalkedthroughthesunflowerfieldstowardsthehills,the
miseryofmorningreplacedbyelation.WhentheyreachedtheturningtheKurdishboys
helpedeveryonethroughthebushes,andthenmovedtotheedgeofthehilltowatchthe
Macedonianpolicebelow.Theyspenthoursrollingandlightingcigarettes.Twopoliceshifts
werechanged,adogwasbroughtin.Whatifweallspreadoutinalineandranatthe
border?oneoftheboyssuggested.Theideaofstorminganinternationalborderseemed
insanetomanyoftheolderrefugees,buttherewasnootherway,andwhennightfellthe
wholecrowdrandownthehillintoMacedonia.
AndthenitwasdownhillallthewaytoGevgelija,thenearesttown,where,inanabsurd
reversalofthegame,theMacedonianpolicepolitelyprocessedeachmigrantandgavethem
thenecessarypaperstomovefreelyacrossthecountry.Aftertheyhadwaitedtheirturn,I
bumpedintotheSyrianhipstersatthebusstation.Theyweretalkingexcitedlyandlookingat

GoogleMapsontheirphones.Nextstop,Skopje,onesaid.Theyhadtheirrouteallplanned
out,acrossSerbia,HungaryandAustria.OneofthemwasthinkingofheadingforDenmark.
Itwouldnttakethemlong.
*
Isawsomeoftheothersoncemore,inLojane,avillageofmostlyethnicAlbaniansonthe
MacedoniansideoftheborderwithSerbia.Heremigrantswouldregroupandwaitandtryto
makearrangementsforthecrossingofanotherinternationalborder,anothergameofcatand
mousewiththepolice.Thistimethingsweretougher:therumourwasthatitwasntsafefor
peopletoloiter.Thevillagesquarewasemptyapartfromafarmerwithastallofmelonsand
tomatoes,andthreeoldmeninblackcapssittingonabench.ThenaSyrianfamilycameinto
thesquare,thefathercarryingachildandthemotherholdingthehandsoftwolittleboys.
Theywerewalkingfast,attheheelsofateenageboy,anArab,whowasleadingtheway.They
enteredanarrowsidestreetwhichturnedintoatrack.TheywalkedpastadarkredAudiwith
nolicenceplatesthatwasparkedontheverge,fourmensittinginside,watchingthem.The
familyheadedintothewoodstowardsSerbia.Ataturninthetracktheyvanished.Itwasonly
whenIsawanotherfamilydoingmuchthesamethatIunderstoodwhatwashappening:they
wereallbeingguidedbyaprevioussetofmigrants,peoplewhoknewthetricksofthisborder
andwhocouldbepaidtotakeonesafelyacross.Theoldsmugglingnetworkswerestillthere,
readytoreemergeatanysignoftighterbordercontrols,totakeadvantageofthedoit
yourselfmigrantswhocouldntquitefindtheirway.
*
Notallsmugglerstoilatthedirttracksonthefrontiersbetweennations.NabilisaSwedish
Iraqiwhosemaintalentismarketing.Hisjobhasbeenmadedifficultlately:whoneedsa
smuggleriftheycanfindtheirownwaytoEurope?Hemadethedecisiontocaterformore
exclusiveclients,thosewhowanttosparethemselvesandtheirfamiliesthehardshipofalong
trekthroughtheBalkans.
ImethiminthelobbyofahotelinBaghdad,havingtoldhimImightneedhisservices.His
hairwasdyedjetblackandgelled.Heworeablueshirtwithwhitepolkadots,apairofRay
Banshangingathischest.Hehadtoldafriendofminebeforeourmeetingthathedressed
likeaEuropeantoimpresshisclients.
So,doyouwanttohumiliateyourselfbytravellingtoEuropeonfoot?heaskedme.Or
thesalesmanspitchwindingupwouldyoupreferaguaranteedwaytogetaSwedish
passportinsidetwoyears?Forthesumofjustfourbundlesabundleis$10,000he
couldarrangeforoneofhisladyfriendsinMalmtomarryme.(Wehavetopayherabundle
inadvance.)TherewouldbeaweddinginBaghdad,withpictures.Thenonceyougetyour
visa,arrangedthroughacontactattheSwedishembassyinaneighbouringcountry,youpay
usanotherbundleandahalf.OnceinSwedenyousettledownandrelax.Thegovernmentwill
giveyouahouseandasalary.Justsitandwaitandtheyllhandyouyourpassportinayearor
two.
WhatifIpayyouthemoneyandIdontgetthepassport?Iasked.
Iguaranteeyouapassport.Ivedonethesameforalotofpeople.
WhatifIgiveyourfriendthemoneyandshedoesntturnupforthewedding?
Iamyourguarantor,heassuredme.
Therewas,hesaid,acheaperoption,whichcouldbearrangedthroughanetworkofcorrupt

officialsatoneoftheEuropeanembassiesinBaghdad,theItalianandthePolishbeingthe
bestbets.WecangetyouaSchengenvisathatwaybutwecantguaranteeyouapassport
afterwards.Thedodgyvisawouldcostmeamere$18,000.
Vol.37No.198October2015GhaithAbdulAhadSomeTipsfortheLongDistance
Traveller
pages3941|4506words
ISSN02609592CopyrightLRBLimited2015

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