CHAPTER 13

REPAIR WORK
CHAPTER LEARNING OBJECTIVES
Upon completing this chapter, you should be able to do the following:
Explain the removal of broken studs and taps.
Describe the repair and inspection of pumps.
Explain the procedure used to straighten shafts.
Describe the inspection of constant-pressure governors.
Explain the uses of in-place machining equipment.
Explain the purpose of METCAL.
Explain the purpose of the quality assurance program.
Explain the purpose of the planned maintenance system.
In this chapter well discuss some of the different
jobs you may encounter as an MR. Well also discuss
some of the things you need to know before you start
the job, such as quality assurance, calibration, and
planning.

CALIBRATION
Calibration assures us that the parts we manufacture
will fit together as they should. The increased
complexity of ship systems has made it necessary to
improve the accuracy of measurements. The Navy
addressed this problem by creating the Navy Metrology
and Calibration (METCAL ) Program. This program
ensures the traceability and accuracy of instrument
calibration. To operating personnel, this means that any
instrument used for quantitative measurement must be
calibrated.

JOB PREPARATION
There are a number of things you must do before
you actually start a job in a machine shop. If you ignore
these things, the job may turn out to be inaccurate. Even
worse, it may be perfect but still not useable because of
improper documentation. Well now discuss some of
the things you must do to prepare for the job.

Simply stated, you must always be sure the

instruments you use for quantitative measurement are
calibrated. Never use an instrument with an outdated
calibration sticker. If you suspect a measuring
instrument has been damaged, be sure it is taken out of
use and calibrated. For more information on the
METCAL program refer to Instrumentman 3 & 2,
NAVEDTRA 10193-D.

As with any shop equipment you must observe all

posted safety precautions. Review your equipment
operators manual for safety precautions. Also read any
chapters of Navy Occupational Safety and Health
(NAVOSH) Program Manual for Forces Afloat,
OPNAV Instruction 5100.l9B, that apply to the
equipment.

QUALITY ASSURANCE
The philosophy of quality assurance (QA) is unique
in that it does not recognize degrees of success. QA is
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pass-fail. In our educational system, a student who

answers 99 percent of the questions correctly will get
straight As. By contrast, an MR may manufacture 99
percent of a part perfectly, but the part ends up in the
scrap bin because of the 1 percent done improperly. The
part must be redone and the costs are additional time,
effort, money, and embarrassment to the machinist.
Quality assurance is used to lay out procedures in
which we assemble and disassemble components and
repair their parts. All MRs must be familiar with QA
since it is something they will use every day on the job.
Refer to your type commanders quality assurance
manual, which is developed according to
SECNAVINST 4855.1, for information on the quality
assurance program. Engineering Administration,
NAVEDTRA 12147, also contains a chapter on QA that
is condensed and easily understood.

Figure 13-1.Part made in a machine shop.

Once you have the job planned, be sure all

documentation is properly recorded from the start of the
job until the finish.

PLANNED MAINTENANCE SYSTEM

REPAIR JOBS

Maintenance is one of the most important jobs you

will do in the Navy. The degree of accuracy to which
you can machine a part is often directly related to the
condition of the machine tools you are using. If
preventive maintenance is not done properly, or not
done at all, your equipment may be put out of
commission until it can be repaired.

The Navy supply system usually provides

replacement parts for most equipment, but occasionally
you will need to make parts such as shafts and gears.
(See fig. 13-1).
A major portion of the repair work done in
shipboard machine shops involves machining worn or
damaged parts so that they can be placed back in service.
For example, you will machine the sealing surfaces of
leaking valves and pumps, remove broken studs, and
repair bent or damaged shafts. Repair work is usually
more difficult than manufacturing work because of
alignment problems in the machining operation.

Preventive maintenance includes actions to prevent

equipment from failing, such as taking oil samples,
changing the oil, greasing, cleaning or replacing filters,
or simply cleaning each machine before and after its
use.
Information on the planned maintenance system is
found in Ships Maintenance and Material Management (3-M) Manual, OPNAVINST 4790.4.

SHAFTS

PLANNING WORK

If you work in a machine shop, some of your

common jobs will be to manufacture, straighten, and
stub shafts. We will discuss them in the following
paragraphs.

Occasionally you may be fortunate enough to have

a TRS (technical repair standard) to give you
step-by-step instructions for a job. Unfortunately there
are very few TRSs for machine shop work. You
normally have to plan the steps for each job.

Manufacturing a New Shaft

In figure 13-2, the circled numbers show a sequence
of operations by which a shaft might be made in a
machine shop. The manufacturers technical manual for
the equipment that contains the shaft will normally have
this information. Look at figure 13-2 as you read the
following material.

To start with, you will need to research technical

publications or blueprints for job specifications. If a job
is as-per-sample, you may need to draw your own
blueprint. Decide which machines are required to make
the part and calculate all necessary dimensions. Choose
the most logical sequence of machining operations so
that the part is machined in a minimum of setups. Be
sure the correct material is on hand for the job.

Select and cut a piece of round stock at least

1/16 inch larger in diameter and 1/8 inch longer than the
shaft. Face and center drill each end of the stock. In

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Figure 13-2.Steps in making a shaft.

facing, be sure you face the workpiece to the correct

length for the shaft, which in this example is 20
11/16 inches. Most of the linear dimensions in figure
13-2 are given in the form of mixed numbers of proper
fractions; this indicates that you can use a rule to
measure the dimensions. However, the linear position
of the grooves at numbers 11 and 12 are in decimal
fractions; you must measure these with an instrument
more accurate than a rule. When you manufacture a new
shaft, you must take all linear dimensions from the same
reference point to ensure the correct lengths.

3. Use procedures similar to those described in

step 2 to machine surfaces 3 through 6. Be extremely
careful to accurately measure the diameter of the
beginning of each cut to ensure that you hold the
dimensions within the range provided in the illustration.
4. Turn the workpiece end-for-end and machine
surfaces 7, 8, and 9 as described in step 2.
5. Set a 3/16-inch parting tool in the toolholder,
position the tool (by rule measurement) to make groove
10, and make the groove.
6. Set the compound rest parallel to the axis of the
workpiece to lay out grooves 11 and 12. Place a sharp
pointed tool in the toolholder and align the point of the
tool with the shoulder between surfaces 7 and 8. Then
use the compound rest to move the tool 1.152 inches
longitudinally as indicated by the micrometer collar on
the compound feed screw. Feed the tool toward the work
with the crossfeed until a thin line is scribed on the
surface of the workpiece. Now swivel the compound
rest to the angle required to cut the chamfer, and cut the
chamfer. (Calculate the angular depth from the given
dimensions.) Then use a parting tool between 0.053 and
0.058 inch wide to make the groove.

You can machine this particular shaft in two lathe

setups and two mill setups. In the first lathe setup, do
the plain turning required on surfaces 1 through 6; then
machine surfaces 7 through 12 in the second lathe setup.
Machine keyways 13 and 14 in the first milling setup;
and then change the cutter to machine the Woodruff
keyway (15). To machine the shaft, take the following
steps:
1. Turn the workpiece to a 2 3/16-inch diameter.
Check the diameter for taper and make corrections as
necessary.
2. Set hermaphrodite calipers to 11 3/32 inches and
lay out the shoulder between the 2 3/16 inch diameter
and the 2.050 inch finish diameter. Using the crossfeed
handwheel with the micrometer collar set on zero, feed
the tool in 0.068 inch (one-half of the difference
between 2.050 and 2 3/16). Make a short length of cut
at the end of the shaft and measure the diameter with a
micrometer. Adjust the crossfeed handwheel as
required to provide the 2.050 + 0.000 - 0.001 diameter
and complete the cut to the layout line.

7. With a fine cut file, remove all sharp edges from

shoulders and grooves.
8. Remove the shaft from the lathe, mount it in the
milling machine, and mill the keyways to the required
dimensions.
Straightening a Shaft
In many cases, bent shafts can be straightened so
they have less than 0.001 inch runout. Before you try to

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straighten a shaft, however, always be sure the leading

petty officer of the shop is informed of the operation.
Use the following steps to straighten a shaft:

the diameter of the shaft at the point where the center

rest will be used. Carefully align the center rest on this
spud.

1. Mount the shaft between centers in a lathe. If the

shaft is too long, mount it on rollers.

3. Mount the undamaged end of the shaft in a

4-jaw chuck and zero in the shaft near the jaws of the
chuck Use soft jaws or aluminum shims to prevent
damage to the shaft surface.

2. Clamp a dial indicator on the compound rest,

locate the area of the bend, and measure how much the
shaft is bent (runout). To determine the area of the bend,
run the dial indicator along the shaft longitudinally. The
greatest variation of the pointer from zero indicates the
bend area. With the dial indicator set at this point, rotate
the shaft and note the amount of fluctuation of the
pointer. This fluctuation is the amount of runout. Mark
the longitudinal position of the bend and the high side
of the bend with chalk or a grease pencil.

4. Position the previously set center rest under the

shaft so the center rest is between the chuck and the
damaged end of the shaft.
5. Cut off the damaged portion of the shaft.
6. Face, center drill, and drill the end of the shaft.
The diameter of the hole should be about 5/8 of the
diameter of the shaft; the depth of the hole should be at
least 1/2 times the hole diameter.

3. Remove the shaft from the lathe and place it on

a hydraulic press. Place a V-block on each side of the
bend area and turn the shaft so the high side is up. Move
the press ram downward until it touches the shaft. Set
up a dial indicator so that the contact point contacts the
high side of the shaft as near to the ram as possible.

7. Chamfer the end of the shaft liberally to allow

space for weld deposits.
8. Make a stub of the same material as the shaft.
The stub should be 1/4 inch larger in diameter and 3/8
inch longer than the damaged portion of the shaft plus
the depth of the hole drilled in the shaft. This provides
ample machining allowance.

4. Carefully apply pressure on the shaft with the

ram. Watch the pointer of the dial indicator to determine
how much the shaft is sprung in the direction opposite
the bend. When the indicator reading is 0.002 or 0.003
inch greater than the amount of runout, release the ram
pressure.

9. Machine one end of the stub to a press fit

diameter of the hole in the shaft. The length of this
portion should be slightly less than the depth of the hole
in the shaft. (A screw fit between the shaft and stub can
be used instead of the press lit.)

5. Set up the shaft between centers and check again

as expiained in step 1. Repeat steps 2, 3, and 4 until the
runout is decreased to within acceptable limits.

10. Chamfer the shoulder of the machined end of

the stub the same amount as the shaft is chamfered.

If the first attempt produces little or no change in

runout, spring the shaft further in the second operation
to overcome the elasticity of the shaft so that it bends in
the required direction. Its better to make several tries
and gain a few thousandths of an inch at a time than to
do it in one or two tries and perhaps bend the shaft too
fur in the opposite direction.

11. Press (or screw for a threaded fitting) the stub

into the shaft and have the chamfered joint welded and
stress relieved.
12. Mount the shaft with the welded stub back in
the lathe, and machine the stub to the original shaft
dimensions provided by the drawing or blueprint.

Stubbing a Shaft

REPAIRING VALVES

You can repair the damaged ends of shafts by

removing the bad section and replacing it with a new
stub end. Always check to see if your type
commander allows stubbing of shafts. Use the
following steps to stub a shaft:

To repair valves, you must have a knowledge of the

materials from which they are made. Each material has
its limitations of pressure and temperature; therefore,
the materials used in each type of valve depend upon
the temperatures and pressures of the fluids that they
control.

1. If a blueprint is not available, make a drawing

of the shaft showing all dimensions.

Valves are usually made of bronze, brass, cast or

malleable iron, or steel. Steel valves are either cast or
forged and are made of either plain steel or alloy steel.

2. Begin with a piece of scrap stock (spud) of the

same material as the shaft. Use a lathe to machine it to
13-4

Alloy steel valves are used in high-pressure,

high-temperature systems; the disks and seats of these
valves are usually surfaced with a chromium-cobalt
alloy known as Stellite. This material is extremely hard.
You will find information on the commonly used
types of valves and their construction in Fireman,
NAVEDTRA 12001. The information in the following
sections applies to globe, ball, and gate valves, but the
procedures can usually be adapted to repair any type of
valve.
Repairing Globe Valves
Figure 13-3.Examples of spotted-in valve seats.

Begin with an inspection of all parts of the valve for

wear and alignment and, if you find them defective,
repair or renew them. However, most valve repair is
limited to overhaul of the seat and disk, and we will
concentrate on those procedures.

of the seat and disk. You also will use this process to on
seats or disks you have machined.

Make a close inspection of the valve seat and disk.

Look for erosion, cuts on the seating area, and proper
fit of the disk to its seat. In a normal overhaul, you will
grind-in the seat and disk, or lap the seat and machine
the disk in a lathe. When the parts are in such bad
condition that the normal procedure will not work, you
must machine both the valve disk and valve seat in a
lathe. If the disk and seat appear to be in good condition,
use the spotting-in procedure described in the next
paragraphs to be sure.

To grind-in a valve, apply a small amount of

grinding compound to the face of the disk, insert the
disk into the valve and rotate the disk back and forth
about a quarter turn. Shift the disk-seat relation from
time to time so the disk will be rotated gradually in
increments through several rotations. The grinding
compound will gradually be displaced from between the
seat and disk surfaces, so you must stop every minute
or so to replenish the compound. For best results when
you replenish, wipe the old compound off the seat and
the disk before you apply the new compound. When it
appears that the irregularities have been removed,
spot-in the disk to the seat as described previously.

SPOTTING-IN.Use this procedure to visually

determine whether or not the seat or disk make good
contact with each other. To spot-in a valve seat, first
apply a thin coating of prussian blue evenly over the
entire machined face surface of the disk. Next, insert the
disk into the valve and rotate it a quarter turn, using a
light downward force. The prussian blue will adhere to
the valve seat at points where the disk makes contact.
Figure 13-3 shows the patterns of prussian blue on a
correct seat and on imperfect seats. After you have
noted the condition of the seat surface, wipe all the
prussian blue off of the disk face surface, then apply a
thin, even coat on the contact face of the seat. Again
place the disk on the valve seat and rotate the disk a
quarter turn. Examine the resulting blue ring on the
valve disk. If the ring is unbroken and of uniform width,
and there are no cuts, scars, or irregularities on the face,
the disk is in good condition. If the ring is broken or
wavy, the disk is not making proper contact with the
seat and must be machined.

When you first spot-in a machined valve seat and

disk, the scat contact will be very narrow and located
close to the edge of the bore. Grinding-in, using finer
compounds as the work progresses, causes the seat
contact to become broader until it looks like the correct
seat shown in figure 13-3. The contact area should be
a perfect ring, covering approximately one-third of the
seating surface.
Avoid over-grinding. It will produce a groove in the
seating surface of the disk and it may round off the
straight angular surface of the seat. You will have to
machine the surfaces to correct the effects of
overgrinding.
LAPPING.Lapping serves the same purpose as
grinding, but it works only on the valve seat and it
removes slightly larger irregularities than grinding. In
this procedure, you will use a cast-iron lapping tool that

GRINDING.Valve grinding is the method of

removing small irregularities from the contact surfaces
13-5

Always use a fine grinding compound to finish

the lapping job.
When you complete the lapping job, spot-in and
grind-in the disk to the seat.
Abrasive compound needed to grind-in and lap-in
valve seats and disks is available in Navy stock in four
grades. The following list shows grades and the
recommended sequence of use:
GRADE

Figure 13-4.Lapping tools.

has the same angle as the valve seat (fig. 13-4). You will
use the lapping tool and grinding compounds in almost
the same way you used the disk in the grinding process.
However, you NEVER use the valve disk as a lap. The
following list shows the essential points you must keep
in mind while using the lapping tool:

Coarse

To lap-in seats that have deep cuts and

scratches or extensive erosion.

Medium

To follow up the coarse grade: also

may be used at the start of the
reconditioning process where damage
is not too severe.

Fine

To use when the reconditioning

process nears completion.

Microscopic
fine

To finish lap-in and do final grind-in.

Do not bear heavily on the handle of the lap.

Do not bear sideways on the handle of the lap.
Shift the lap-valve seat relation so that the lap
will gradually and slowly rotate around the entire
seat circle.
Check the working surface of the lap; if a groove
wears on it, have the lap refaced.

USE

REFACING. The seat of a valve may be so

deeply cut, scored, or corroded that lapping will not
correct the condition. If so, you must machine it, or, in
an extreme case, replace it with a new seat.

Use only clean compound.

Replace the compound often.

Many valves have removable seats that are

threaded, welded, threaded and welded, or pressed into
the valve body. In view A of figure 13-5, the valve
seating surface has been welded so that it has become

Spread the compound evenly and lightly.

Do not lap more than is necessary to produce a
smooth and even seat.

Figure 13-5.Valve seat construction.

13-6

Figure 13-6.Typical seawater ball valve.

an integral part of the valve body. In view B, the seating

surface has been welded so that it has become an
integral part of the seat ring. The seat ring is threaded
into the body and then seal-welded. If you must renew
the seating surface of A, you need only machine away
the existing weld material and then rebuild the seating
surface with successive deposits of new weld material.
Then you can machine a new seating surface. If you
must renew the seating surface shown in view B, first
machine the seal weld from the ring and remove the ring
from the valve body. You may then either install a new
seat ring or remove, rebuild, and machine the existing
seat surface.

Figure 13-7.Typical ball stop swing-check valve for seawater

service.

handwheel to completely open or close the valve.

Others are operated by planetary gears that use a
relatively small handwheel and opening force to operate
a fairly large valve. The gearing does, however, increase
the time needed to open and close the valve. Some ball
valves have a swing-check located within the ball to
give the valve a check valve feature. Figure 13-7 shows
a ball stop swing-check valve with planetary gear
operation. Ball valves are normally found in the
following systems aboard ship: seawater, sanitary, trim
and drain, air, hydraulic, and oil transfer. Portsmouth
Process Instruction 4820-921-339D contains repair
procedures for ball valves. In the smaller types, you will
normally replace parts rather than machine and rebuild
them.

After you have completed the machining, spot-in,

and lightly grind-in the seat and disk. Then respot the
seat and disk to be sure contact between the two is as it
should be.
Repairing Ball Valves
Ball valves, as the name implies, are stop valves that
use a ball to stop or start the flow of fluid. The ball,
shown in figure 13-6, performs the same function as the
disk in a globe valve. When you turn the handwheel to
open the valve, the ball rotates to a point where the hole
through the ball is in line with the valve body inlet and
outlet. When you shut the valve, the ball rotates so the
hole is perpendicular to the flow openings of the valve
body, and the flow stops.

Repairing Gate Valves

Gate valves answer a need for a straight line flow
of fluid with minimum flow restriction. Gate valves are
so named because the part (gate) that either stops or
allows flow through the valve acts somewhat like the
opening or closing of a gate. The gate is usually
wedge-shaped. When the valve is wide open, the gate
is fully drawn up into the valve. This leaves an opening
for flow through the valve that is the same size as the

Most ball valves are the quick-acting type; they

require only a 90-degree turn of a simple lever or

13-7

pipe in which the valve is installed. Gate valves are not

suitable for throttling purposes because turbulence
makes it difficult to control flow. Also, fluid force
against a partially open gate causes it to vibrate, causing
extensive damage to the valve.
Gate valves are classified as either rising stem
(fig. 13-8) or nonrising stem valves (fig. 13-9). In a
rising stem gate valve, the stem is attached to the gate,
and the gate and the stem rise and lower together as the
valve is operated. In a nonrising stem gate valve, the
stem is threaded on its lower end into the gate. As you
rotate the handwheel on the stem, the gate travels up or
down the stem on the threads while the stem remains
vertically stationary. This type of valve almost always
has a pointer type of indicator threaded onto the upper
end of the stem to show the gates position.
With this basic information on the principles of the
gate valve, you are ready to learn about repair
procedures and the manufacture of repair parts.
You should use lapping to correct defects such as
light pitting or scoring and imperfect seat contact. Use
a lapping tool designed for the type of valve to be
reconditioned. NEVER use the gate as a lap.
USC the same lapping process for gate valves that
we described earlier for globe valves. But with gate
valves, turn the lap by a handle extending through the
inlet or outlet end of the valve body. Insert the lapping
tool, minus the handle, into the valve so you cover one
of the seat rings. Then attach the handle to the lap and
begin the lapping work. You can lap the wedge gate to
a true surface by using the same lap you used on the seat
rings. In some cases when a gate is worn beyond repair
and a shim behind the seat will not give a proper seat,
you may need to plate the gate or seat.
NOTE: A shim has to be applied behind both seats
to maintain the proper angle.

Figure 13-8.Cutaway view of a gate stop valve (rising stem

type).

As another alternative, you may weld repair the

damaged gate, then use a mill or lathe with an angle
plate or fixture to machine it to its original specifications. Plating has one advantage over welding; the
selective brush plating method does not heat the gate.
When you build up metal by welding, it always heats
the surfaces and can cause loss of temper or other
weaknesses in the metal.

governor maintains a constant pump discharge pressure

under varying conditions of load. It is installed in the
steam line to the pump. It controls the amount of steam
admitted to the driving turbine, thereby controlling the
pump discharge pressure.
Two of the most common types of constantpressure pump governors used by the Navy are the
Leslie and the Atlas. The two are very similar in
operating principles. Our discussion is based on the
Leslie governor, but most of the information also
applies to the Atlas governor.

Repairing Constant-Pressure
Governors
Many turbine driven pumps are fitted with special
valves called constant-pressure governors. This
13-8

Figure 13-9.Cross-sectional views of gate stop valves (nonrising stem type).

13-9

Figure 13-10.Constant-pressure governor for main feed pump.

Figure 13-10 shows a Leslie constant-pressure

governor for a main feed pump. The governors used on
fuel oil service pumps, lube oil service pumps, fire and
flushing pumps, and various other pumps are almost
identical. The chief difference between governors used

for different services is in the size of the upper

diaphragm. A governor used for a pump that operates
with a high discharge pressure has a smaller upper
diaphragm than one used for a pump that operates with
a low discharge pressure.
13-10

Two opposing forces are involved in the operation

of a constant-pressure pump governor. Fluid from the
pump discharge, at discharge pressure, is led through an
actuating line to the space below the upper diaphragm.
The pump discharge pressure exerts an UPWARD force
on the upper diaphragm. Opposing this, an adjusting
spring exerts a DOWNWARD force on the upper
diaphragm.
When the downward force of the adjusting spring
is greater than the upward force of the pump discharge
prcssurc, the spring forces both the upper diaphragm
and the upper crosshead downward. A pair of
connecting rods connects the upper crosshead rigidly to
the lower crosshead, so the entire assembly of upper and
lower crossheads moves together. When the crosshead
assembly moves downward, it pushes the lower
mushroom and the lower diaphragm downward. The
lower diaphragm is in contact with the controlling
valve. When the lower diaphragm is moved downward,
the controlling valve is forced down and open.
The controlling valve is supplied with a small
amount of steam through a port from the inlet side of
the governor. When the controlling valve is open, steam
passes to the top of the operating piston. The steam
pressure acts on the top of the operating piston, forcing
the piston down and opening the main valve. The extent
to which the main valve is opened controls the amount
of steam admitted to the driving turbine. Increasing the
opening of the main valve therefore increases the supply
of steam to the turbine and so increases the speed of the
turbine.
The increased speed of the turbine is reflected in an
increased discharge pressure from the pump. This
pressure is exerted against the underside of the upper
diaphragm. When the pump discharge pressure has
increased to the point that the upward force acting on
the underside of the upper diaphragm is greater than the
downward force exerted by the adjusting spring, the
upper diaphragm is moved upward. This action allows
a spring to start closing the controlling valve, which, in
turn, allows the main valve spring to start closing the
main valve against the now-reduced pressure on the
operating piston. When the main valve starts to close,
the steam supply to the turbine is reduced, the speed of
the turbine is reduced, and the pump discharge pressure
is reduced.
At first glance, it might seem that the controlling
valve and the main valve would open and close
constantly and the pump discharge pressure would vary
continually over a wide range. But this does not happen
because the governor prevents such excessive opening
or closing. An intermediate diaphragm bears against an
intermediate mushroom, which, in turn, bears against

the top of the lower crosshead. Steam is led from the

governor outlet to the bottom of the lower diaphragm
and also through a needle valve to the top of the
intermediate diaphragm. A steam chamber provides a
continuous supply of steam at the required pressure to
the top of the intermediate diaphragm.
Any up or down movement of the crosshead
assembly is therefore opposed by the force of the steam
pressure acting on either the intermediate diaphragm or
the lower diaphragm. The whole arrangement prevents
extreme reactions of the controlling valve in response
to variations in pump discharge pressure.
Limiting the movement of the controlling valve in
the manner just described reduces the amount of
hunting the governor must do to find each new position.
Under constant-load conditions, the controlling valve
takes a position that causes the main valve to remain
open by the required amount. A change in load
conditions causes momentary hunting by the governor
until it finds the new position required to maintain pump
discharge pressure at the new load.
A pull-open device, consisting of a valve stem and
a handwhcel, is fitted to the bottom of the governor.
Turning the handwheel to the open position draws the
main valve open and allows full steam flow to the
turbine. When the main valve is opened with the
handwhcel, the turbine must be controlled manually.
Under all normal operating conditions, the bypass
remains closed and the pump discharge pressure is
raised or lowcrcd, as necessary, by increasing or
decreasing the tension on the adjusting spring.
CONTROL AND MAIN VALVE.If there is
leakage in the generator through the control valve or its
bushing, steam will flow to the top of the operating
piston, opening the main valve, and holding it open,
even though there is no tension on the adjusting spring.
The main valve must be able to close off completely or
else the governor cannot operate properly. The only
remedy is to disassemble the governor and stop the
steam leakage. In most instances, you must renew the
control valve. If the leakage is through the bottom of the
bushing and its seat, you must lap the scat. A cast-iron
lap is best for this type of work.
Rotate the lap through a small angle of rotation, lift
it from the work occasionally, and move it to a new
position as the work progresses. This will ensure that
the lap will slowly and gradually rotate around the entire
scat circle. Do not bear down heavily on the handle of
the lap. Replace the compound often, using only clean
compound. If the lap should develop a groove or cut,
redress the lap. Continue lapping only long enough to
remove all damaged areas.
13-11

Figure 13-11.Critical dimensions of the Leslie top cap.

When you install the control valve and its bushing,

remember that the joint between the bottom of the
bushing and its seat is a metal-to-metal contact. Install
the bushing tightly, and when it is all the way down, tap
the wrench lightly with a hammer, to ensure a
steam-tight joint.
When the controlling valve is installed, you must
check the clearance between the top of the valve stem
and the diaphragm. It is absolutely mandatory that this
clearance be between 0.001 and 0.002 inch (fig. 13-11).
If the clearance is less than 0.001 inch, the diaphragm
will hold the control valve open, allowing steam to flow
to the main valve at any time the throttle valve is open.
If the clearance is more than 0.002 inch, the diaphragm
will not fully open the control valve. This means the
main valve cannot open fully, and the unit cannot be
brought up to full speed and capacity.
When the main valve seating area is damaged, it
must be lapped in by the same process. ALWAYS lap in
the main valve with the piston in the cylinder liner to
ensure perfect centering.
If the damage to the seating surfaces is excessive,
you must install new parts. Use parts supplied by the
manufacturer if they are available.
TOP CAP.If the top flange of the top cap of the
governor becomes damaged, you must be extremely
careful when you machine it. Consult the manufacturers technical manual for the correct clearances.
(See fig. 13-11.)
All seating surfaces must be square with the axis of
the control valve seat threads and must have the
smoothest possible finish. Before you start the
reassembly, be sure that all ports in the top cap and the
diaphragm chamber are free of dirt and other foreign
matter. Be sure that the piston rings are free in their

grooves and that the cylinder liner is smooth and free of

grooves, pits, and rust.
When installing the cylinder liner, be sure the top
of the liner does not extend above the top of the valve
body. The piston must work freely in the liner; if there
is binding, the governor will not operate satisfactorily.
Renew the controlling valve spring and the main valve
spring if they are weak, broken, or corroded, or if they
have taken a permanent set. Renew all diaphragms if
necessary. If you use the old diaphragms, install them
in their original position; do not reverse them.
Follow the instructions in the manufacturers
technical manual when you reassemble the governor.
All clearances must be as designed if the governor is to
operate satisfactorily. Check each moving part carefully
to ensure freedom of movement.
When you have reassembled the governor, test it as
soon as possible so that you can make any needed
corrections.
Repairing Double-Seated Valves
On a double-seated valve, the extent of damage
determines the kind of repairs you can do. Normally,
you can lap it or weld-repair it and remachine it to fit
the body. The normal seat angles are the same as those
in globe valves, and the spotting-in procedure is the
same. You can hold most valve disks on a spud or mount
them on a mandrel and cut them the same way as a globe
valve. In this case as in the others, it is best to consult
local quality assurance directives and local procedures
when you repair this type of valve. Also, in most cases
the blueprints will show ND (no deviations) and must
be closely adhered to, as far as type of weld and quality.
In all cases, shop LPOs should be able to provide the
necessary information.

13-12

weld-repair the plug cock and machine it back to

blueprint specifications. If you need to repair the
strainer body, you will usually hone it, and in some
cases you will use an oversized O-ring. Consult local
type commander and QA procedures for the best
method. Check with the shops leading petty officer
before you undertake any repair procedures.
Repairing Pressure Seal Bonnet Globe Valves
The repairs you may do on pressure seal bonnet
globe valves (fig. 13-12) usually are limited to repair of
the scat and disk and the manufacture of silver seals.
Sometimes you may manufacture parts or be involved
in a weld-repair. Always follow your controlled work
package carefully.
Figure 13-12.1500-pound pressure seal bonnet globe valve.

Repairing Duplex Strainer Plug Valves

The most common reason to repair duplex strainers
is scored or chipped O-ring grooves or scored or
scratched liners. In some cases you may need to

REPAIRING PUMPS
Fireman, NAVEDTRA 12001, provides a description of the common types and uses of pumps aboard
ship. You will do most of your pump repairs on centrifugal pumps, so well limit this discussion to that type.
Figure 13-13 shows the internal parts of a centrifugal pump. Look at the arrangement of the impeller,

Figure 13-13.Two-stage main feed pump.

13-13

Figure 13-14.Stuffhg box on a centrifugal pump.

In some pumps, the shaft sleeve is pressed onto the

shaft with a hydraulic press, and you must machine off
the old sleeve in a lathe before you can install a new
one. On centrifugal pumps, the shaft sleeve is a snug
slip-on fit, butted up against a shoulder on the shaft and
held securely in place with a nut. The centrifugal pump
sleeve-shaft-shoulder joint is usually made up with a
hard fiber washer. It prevents liquid from leaking
through the joint and out of the pump between the sleeve
and shaft.

casing wearing rings, impeller wearing rings, shaft, and

shaft sleeves in particular.
The operation of a centrifugal pump wears away
both the area of the shaft that goes through the packing
gland or mechanical seal and the casing-impeller
sealing areas. They must be renewed from time to time
to maintain the efficiency of the pump.
The shaft, casing, and impeller in a centrifugal
pump are designed so they can be renewed without
replacing them. The shafts have tightly fitted renewable
sleeves, while the casing and impeller have renewable
surfaces called casing wearing rings and impeller
wearing rings. You can see the arrangement clearly in
figure 13-14.

The impeller wearing ring is usually lightly pressfitted to the hub of the impeller and keyed in with
headless screws (also called Dutch keyed). To remove
the worn ring, withdraw the headless screws or drill
them out and then machine the ring off in a lathe.

When it is necessary to renew these parts, the rotor

assembly, consisting of the pump shaft, the impeller and
its wearing ring, and the casing rings, is usually brought
into the shop. The following paragraphs explain the
method you should use to replace these parts.

The amount of diametrical running clearance

between the casing rings and the impeller rings affects
the efficiency of a centrifugal pump. Too much
clearance will let too much liquid leak back from the
discharge side to the suction side of the pump. Not
enough clearance will cause the pump to freeze.
Before you install a new wearing ring on the impeller,
measure the outside diameter of the impeller wearing
ring, and the inside diameter of the casing ring. (See
fig. 13-15.) If the measurements do not agree with the
lit and clearance data you have on hand, ask your

The repair parts generally are available from the

ships allowance, but you may need to manufacture
them. Before you proceed with these repairs, consult the
manufacturers technical manual and the applicable
blueprints to get the correct information on vital
clearances and other data.
13-14

Figure 13-16.Removing a broken stud with locking pliers.

Figure 13-15.Impeller, impeller wearing ring, and casing

wearing ring for a centrifugal pump.

5. Remove the shaft assembly from the lathe.

6. Make the impeller rings. The size of the inside
diameter of the impeller rings should provide a
press fit on the impeller. The outside diameter
should be slightly larger than the inside diameter
of the casing rings.

leading petty officer for instructions before you go any

further. Sometimes it is necessary to take a light cut on
the inside diameter of the impeller ring to get its correct
press fit on the impeller hub. The difference between
the outside diameter of the impeller wearing ring and
the inside diameter of the casing wearing ring is the
diametrical running clearance between the rings. If
this clearance is too small, correct it by taking a cut
on either the outside diameter of the impeller ring or
the inside diameter of the casing ring. You also need
to check the concentricity of the two rings. If they do
not run true, machine their mating surfaces so they do
run true. Be sure you keep the specified diametrical
clearance.

7. Press the impeller rings on the impeller and lock

them in place with headless screws, if the
blueprint specifies it.
8. Mount the shaft assembly back in the lathe and
machine the diameter of the impeller rings to
provide the proper clearance between impeller
rings and casing rings. Blueprints and technical
manuals list the clearance as either diametrical
or radial clearance. Diametrical clearance is the
total amount of clearance required. Radial
clearance is one-half of the clearance required
and must be doubled to get diametrical
clearance.

When a pump like the one shown in figure 13-13

needs repairs, usually only the shaft assembly and
casing wearing rings are brought to the shop. To renew
the wearing rings and resurface the packing sleeves on
this type of pump, take the following steps:

REMOVING BROKEN BOLTS

AND STUDS

1. Clamp the casing wearing ring on a faceplate

and align the circumference of the ring
concentrically with the axis of the lathe spindle.
(You can hold the casing rings in a 4-jaw chuck,
but it may distort the ring.)

When you must remove a broken bolt or stud, flood

the part being worked on with penetrating oil or oil of
wintergreen. Soak the area for several hours or
overnight if you have time. A good soaking may loosen
a bolt that will otherwise have to be drilled out.

2. Take a light cut on the inside diameter of the

casing ring to clean up the surface. Do this to all
casing rings.

If enough of the broken piece protrudes, take hold

of it with locking pliers, as shown in figure 13-16, and
carefully try to ease it out. If you cannot turn the bolt,
soak it further with penetrating oil. If the oil doesnt
loosen the bolt, jar it with light hammer blows on the
top and around the sides. This may loosen the threads
so that you can remove the bolt with the pliers.

3. Mount the shaft assembly between centers or in

a chuck and align its axis with the lathe axis.
4. Machine away the impeller wearing rings. Be
careful not to cut into the impeller.

13-15

Figure 13-19.Removing a broken bolt and retapping the hole

to a larger size.

Figure 13-17.Removing a broken bolt with a prick punch.

If a bolt has been broken off flush with the surface,

you may sometimes back it out with light blows on a
prick punch or center punch, as shown in figure 13-17.

Figure 13-20.Removing a broken tap with locking pliers.

To drill out a broken bolt and retap the hole, file the
bolt smooth, if necessary, and centerpunch it. Then
select a twist drill that is a little smaller than the tap-drill
size for the particular bolt that has been broken. As
shown in figure 13-18, this drill will just about but not
quite touch the crests of the threads in the threaded hole
or the roots of the threads on the threaded bolt. Carefully
start drilling at the center punch mark Crowd the drill
one way or the other as necessary so that the hole will
be drilled in the exact center of the bolt.

The drill in figure 13-18 has almost drilled the

remaining part of the bolt away and will eventually
break through the bottom of the bolt. When this
happens, all that will remain of the bolt will be a
threaded shell. With a prick punch or other suitable tool,
chip out and remove the first two or three threads, if
possible, at the top of the shell. Then carefully start a
tapered tap into these clean threads and continue

Figure 13-18.Removing a broken bolt and retapping the hole to the same size.

13-16

Figure 13-21.Removing a broken tap with a tap extractor.

Figure 13-22.Using a plug weld to remove a broken tap.

tapping until you have cut away the shell and restored
the original threads.
In cases where it is not necessary to replace the
capscrew or bolt with one of the same size, use a drill
larger than the broken bolt to drill out the old bolt, as
shown in figure 13-19, view A. Tap the hole first, and
then finish it with a bottoming tap as shown in view B.
Replace the original capscrew or stud with a larger size.
Never do this without the concurrence of your QA
office.
REMOVING A BROKEN
TAP FROM A HOLE
To remove a broken tap that protrudes from a hole,
generously apply penetrating oil to the tap, working it
down through the four flutes into the hole. Then grasp
the tap across the flats with locking pliers. Figure 13-20
shows this operation. Carefully ease the tap out of the
hole, adding penetrating oil as necessary.

If the tap has broken off at or slightly below the

surface of the work, you may be able to remove it with
the tap extractor shown in figure 13-21. Again, apply a
liberal amount of penetrating oil to the broken tap. Place
the tap extractor over the broken tap and lower the upper
collar to insert the four sliding prongs down into the four
flutes of the tap. Then slide the bottom collar down to
the surface of the work so it will hold the prongs tightly
against the body of the extractor. Tighten the tap wrench
on the square shank of the extractor and carefully work
the extractor back and forth to loosen the tap. You may
need to remove the extractor and strike a few sharp
blows with a small hammer and pin punch to jar the tap
loose. Then reinsert the tap remover and carefully try to
back the tap out of the hole.
Each size of tap requires its own size of tap
extractor. They come in the following sizes: 1/4, 5/16,
3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8 and 1 inch.
When a tap extractor will not remove a broken tap,
you may be able to do it with the plug weld method
shown in figure 13-22. Place a hex nut over the tap and

13-17

Figure 13-23.Metal disintegrator removing a broken stud.

have it welded to the tap. Use a nut with a hole

somewhat smaller than the tap diameter to avoid
welding the nut and the tap to the job itself. Allow
the weld to cool before you try to remove the tap.
When the nut, tap, and job have come to room
temperature, it often is helpful to quickly heat the

immediate area around the hole with an oxyacetylene torch. This quick heating expands the
adjacent metal of the work and allows you to
remove the tap more easily. If the heating is too
slow, the tap will expand with the metal of the
work and there will be no loosening effect.
13-18

METAL DISINTEGRATORS
Sometimes you cannot remove a broken tap or stud
with the usual methods we explained earlier in this
chapter. In those cases, you may use a metal
disintegrator to remove such a piece without damaging
the part. This machine uses an electrically charged
electrode that vibrates as it is fed into the work and
disintegrates a hole through the broken tap or stud. The
part to be disintegrated and the mating part that it is
screwed into must be made from a material that will
conduct electricity. Figure 13-23 shows a disintegrator
being used to remove a broken stud.
You can find the specific operating procedure for
the metal disintegrator in the operators material
furnished by the manufacturer. However, we will
explain several steps in the setup for a disintegrating job
that are common to most of the models of disintegrators
found aboard Navy ships.
First set up the part to be disintegrated. Some
disintegrator models have a built-in table with the
disintegrating head mounted above it much like a drill
press. On a machine such as this, you need only bolt the
part securely to the table and be sure the part makes
good contact to provide an electrical ground. Align the
tap or stud to be removed square with the table so the
electrode will follow the center of the hole correctly. If
there is misalignment, the electrode may leave the tap
or stud and damage the part. Use either a machinists
square laid on the table or a dial indicator mounted on
the disintegrating head to help align the part. If the part
will not make an electrical ground to the table, or if the
model of machine you are using is designed as an
attachment to be mounted in a drill press spindle, attach
the disintegrators auxiliary ground cable to the part.
The diameter and length of the part to be removed
determines the selection of the electrode. As a general
rule, the electrode should be large enough in diameter
to equal the smallest diameter of a tap (the distance
between the bottom of opposite flutes). If you plan to
remove a stud, the electrode must not be so large that a
slight misalignment can cause it to burn or damage the
part. Use a scribe and a small magnet to remove any of
the stud material not disintegrated.

Figure 13-24.Gate valve reseater.

disintegrating head vibrating and a selector switch for

the heat or power setting. The position of this switch
depends on the diameter of the electrode being used.
Some models have an automatic feed control that
regulates the speed that the electrode penetrates the part
to be removed. Regardless of whether the feed is
automatic or manual, do NOT advance so fast that it
stops the disintegrating head and the electrode from
vibrating. If this happens, the disintegrating action will
stop and the electrode can be bent or broken.
IN PLACE MACHINING
There are times when a job cannot be brought to the
shop and the MR must go and do the job in place. Some
examples of in-place machining include the repair of
globe and gate valves, the resurfacing of pipe and valve
flanges, boring valve inlay areas, and general machine
work.

A free-flowing supply of clean coolant is an

essential part of the disintegrating operation. The
coolant is pumped from a sump to the disintegrating
head and then through the electrode, which is hollow,
to the exact point of the disintegrating action.

There are a number of machines you can use on

these jobs. For example, you can use the gate valve
grinder shown in figure 13-24 to reseat gate valves.

Different machines have different controls that you

must set. However, most have a control to start the

13-19

Figure 13-25.Portable boring bar.

Figure 13-26.Versa-Mil.

Figure 13-25 shows a portable boring bar. You can

use it to bore the inlay area of high-pressure steam
valves.
Figure 13-26 shows a Versa-Mil. You can use it to
mill, shape, grind, and drill in place. You can mount a
feed table to the base of the Versa-Mil that allows you
to hand feed the machine. Only your imagination limits
the different setups you can make with the Versa-Mil.

13-20

There are a number of companies that build in-place

machining equipment and it is not feasible to cover all
of them. We have only given you a brief overview of
the types of machines you might use. Refer to your
machine operators manual for specific operating
instructions.