Part Linear Wave Theory BRN

8/12/2014
CE 769
Coastal and Ocean Environment
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan

Assistant Professor
Department of Civil Engineering, IIT Bombay.
email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Wave generation by Wind
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014

Why wind generated waves are important?
Distribution of energy as a function of wave periods and types

(Fig. 9.4, Garrison, 2001).

Development of waves
Due to the energy transfer from the wind to water surface, the water
particles motion is initiated and initially small capillary waves of few mm
high are formed.
When the wind is continuously blowing over the water surface, the waves
grow and become gravity waves.
First waves grow in both length & height, later, when they reach height
limit, they grow predominantly in length, if more energy is available.
The size/characteristics of the waves resulting from the energy transfer
are governed by;
velocity of the wind (W);
fetch (F) or distance over which the wind blows;
the duration (D) of time that the wind blows.
8/12/2014

Development of waves
Definition of Fetch

Limited waves
Fetch limited
If the wind duration exceeds the time required for waves to propagate the
entire fetch length.
Duration limited
If the wind duration less, then the wave growth reaches OAC.
Fully developed sea-state
If both the fetch and duration are
sufficiently large, a fully developed sea has
been generated for given wind velocity.
Fetch, F
The state of the sea, in which the input of

energy to the waves from the wind is in
balance with the transfer of energy among
the different wave components, and with the
dissipation of energy by wave breaking.
8/12/2014
Seas
Swell
Next...
Small amplitude wave theory
8/12/2014

General
There are variety of wave types exist;
-Storm waves, flood waves in river
-oscillations in harbour basins, tidal bores
-hydraulic jump in estuaries
-waves generated by ships
-tsunami waves by landslides/earthquake/
underwater explosions
A general solution is not possible, from
mathematical point of view, as the boundary
conditions vary.
Assumptions made in various wave theories
define the limits of validity.
The primary difficulty in water wave theories is
one of the boundaries, free surface elevation, is one
of the unknowns !.

Assumptions
The motion is assumed to irrotational;
Hence, a single-valued velocity potential function (x,y,z,t) exists &
has to be found from continuity & momentum eqns.
The fluid is incompressible therefore, the density is a constant.
and the continuity equation exists as,
The continuity eqn is expressed in terms of , as;

Laplace equation
The momentum eqn is given as;
Bernoulli equation
8/12/2014

Assumptions
The fluid is homogeneous, ideal and inviscid;
Surface tension is neglected (surface waves
are longer than the length where surface
tension effects are important);
Pressure at the free surface is uniform and constant (no pressure is exerted by
the wind and the aerostatic pressure difference between the wave crest and trough is negligible);
The particular wave being considered does not interact with any other
water motions;
The bottom is stationary, impermeable, and horizontal (bottom is not adding or
removing energy from the flow or reflecting wave energy);
The waves are long-crested and the wave amplitude is small.

Definition of domain
8/12/2014

Boundary conditions (BC)
Bottom BC
The seabed is assumed to be horizontal, fixed and impermeable boundary,
hence, the velocity normal to it is zero.
Kinematic Free Surface BC

The difficulty in water wave theory is one of the boundary, free surface
elevation, is unknown.
The free surface is given as; z=(x,y,t) and its derivative with respect to t is;
Where;

The kinematic free surface BC becomes;
Dynamic Free Surface BC

This BC is given by Bernoulli equation, in which the pressure is considered
as constant (=atmospheric pressure).
Periodic Lateral BC
This BC is given by;
8/12/2014

Periodic
lateral BC
2 =0
Periodic lateral
BC
and are obtained by the solution of 2 =0, with application of boundary

conditions.

Linearization the Boundary conditions
(1) Linearization of DFSBC: The nonlinear DFSBC is given as;
- The convective inertia term is neglected.

- At the free surface, z=, the above equation becomes;
or
- with assumption of small amplitude waves;
8/12/2014

Linearization the Boundary conditions
(1) Linearization of KFSBC: The nonlinear KFSBC is given as;
- The convective terms are neglected.

- The slope components, / x & / y , are assumed to be small &
neglected;
-
Finally, the normal component of the fluid velocity at the free surface ()
is assumed to be equal to the normal velocity of the surface itself.
So, the approximated KFSBC is;

Solution of the linear water wave problem
The solution of Laplace equation is obtained through separation of
variables, in which the solution is expressed as product independent
variable terms;
Function that
depends only on x
Function that
depends only on z
Function that
depends only on t
As the solution must be periodic, we specify T(t) =sin t, where, is angular

frequency of the wave.
To find the , we use the lateral periodic BC;
sin t =sin (t+T)
(or) sin t =sin t cos T + cos t sin T
Which is true for T=2, or; =2/T
Angular frequency
Now the velocity potential becomes;
8/12/2014

Substituting the equation into the Laplace equation & dividing through ;
The x can vary independently of z and vice versa.

The only way in which the two functions will be equal is if both parts of the
equation are equal to a same constant, for a different sign;
&
where, k can be real or imaginary.
This is an ordinary differential equation & can be solved separately.

The value of k, can be real, k=0 or imaginary.

Possible solutions to Laplace equation, based on the separation of variables.
The solution is spacially periodic & physically meaningful, only if k is real &
nonzero.
10
8/12/2014

Application of BC
Now, we have the velocity potential as;
Applying the periodic BC;
Which is satisfied for cos kL=1 and since sin kL=0, leading to kL=2 or;
Wave number
Keeping only A terms; as,
& apply bottom BC;
on z=-d

Application of BC
For this equation to be true for x & t;
Applying this in and dividing with D terms; we get,
Or,
where;
Applying the velocity potential into the DFSBC;
The terms within the brackets are constant; therefore, is given as a

constant times periodic terms in space and time plus a function of time.
Now, can be written as;
now; G becomes as;
11
8/12/2014

Application of BC
The velocity potential now takes as;
Is this corresponding to a moving wave ?.
The pictorial representation of the is given as;
-At t = /2, the wave form is zero for all x,
at t = 0, it has a cosine shape and at
other times, the same cosine shape with
different magnitudes.
-This wave form is obviously a standing
wave, as it does not propagate in any
direction.
-At positions kx = /2, and 3 /2, and so
on, nodes exist; that is, there is no motion
of the free surface at these points.

Application of BC
Considering another solution of Laplace equation, the & will be;
The differs from the previous solution in that the x and t terms are 900 out
of phase. The associated water surface displacement is, as given above;
As the Laplace equation is linear & superposition is valid, we can add or
subtract solutions to the linearized boundary value problem to generate
new solutions. If we subtract the above from the previous , we obtain,
for progressive
waves
And the corresponding will be;
12
8/12/2014
Next...
Properties of Waves
Properties of linear waves

Dispersion relation
The , after applying DFSBC, takes form;
Substituting the equations of & into KFSBC,
We get,
Dispersion relation
Applying the values of =2/T and k= 2/L in the above equation;
and rearranging the terms;
Celerity / speed of wave
Similar algebraic manipulation gives another relationship;

Wave length
13
8/12/2014

Wave length, L
In the wave length equation;
or
In addition, the wave length equation is a iterative equation;
The wavelength equation is a iterative type and one can start with L0 as
initial value.
where,

Classification of water waves by depth
The gravity water waves are classified into three categories, depending upon
their water depth to wave length ratio, (d/L);
The hyperbolic functions present in

the equations have asymptotes that
leads to simplified forms of
equations.
Function
Large kd
Small kd
cosh kd
ekd/2
sinh kd
ekd/2
kd
tanh kd
kd
cosh(kd)
sinh(kd)
tanh(kd)
14
8/12/2014

Classification of water waves by depth
Shallow water: The dispersion relation,
reduces to;
Function
Large kd
cosh kd
ekd/2
Small kd
1
sinh kd
ekd/2
kd
tanh kd
kd
So, in shallow water, the speed of the wave is solely depends on water
depth.
Deep water: The dispersion relation reduces to,
Where,
and

Water particle velocities
The horizontal and vertical components of water particle velocity (u and w,
respectively) can be determined from the velocity potential; as,
surface deep water particle speed
phasing term dependent on

position in the wave and time
particle velocity variation over the vertical

water column at a given location
& for particle velocity variation caused by the
wave moving from deep to shallow water
Where, =(kx-t)
15
8/12/2014

Water particle accelerations
The horizontal and vertical water particle
accelerations (ax and az, respectively) can be
determined from the velocities; as,
Where, =(kx-t)
ax
az

Water particle displacements
The displacement components of the water particle are obtained by
integrating the velocity w.r.t time;
&
Assuming the non-time varying parts as A & B in the above two equations;
Squaring and adding them together will lead to;
Which is a equation of ellipse with semi-axis A & B in x-z directions.

Shallow water
Deep water
16
8/12/2014

Water particle displacements
d
d
L0
d
(c) shallow water, d/L<0.05

(b) Intermediate water
0.5>d/L<0.05
(a) deep water, d/L>0.5

Pressure distribution under waves
Substitution of the velocity potential into the linearized form of Bernoulli
equation yields the following equation for the pressure field in a wave;
Hydrostatic pr. variation
Dynamic pr. due to waves
17
8/12/2014

Energy
The total mechanical energy in a surface gravity wave is the sum of the
kinetic and potential energies.
The kinetic energy for a unit width of wave crest and for one wave length is
equal to the integral over one wave length and the water depth of one-half
times the mass of a differential element times the velocity of that element
squared, as;
Apply
u&w

Energy
If we subtract the potential energy of a mass of still water (with respect to the
bottom) from the potential energy of the wave form, the potential energy due
solely to the wave form will be obtained. Potential energy per unit wave crest
width and for one wave length is;
i
Thus, the kinetic and potential
energies are equal and the total energy
in a wave per unit crest width E is;
ii
the avg. energy per unit surface area is;
Also called as energy

density or specific energy
18
8/12/2014

Summary of linear wave characteristics

Summary of linear wave characteristics
19
8/12/2014
Problems related to linear waves

Problem 1
Given: A wave with a period T = 10 sec is propagating over a uniformly
sloping sea from a depth d = 200 m.
Find: Wavelength, L and Celerity, C at the following depths;
(a) d1 = 150 m
(b) d2=50m
(c) d3=5m
Solution:
For d1=150m;
d1/L0= 0.9615 > 0.5 & hence, d1 is deepwater.
So, L1=L0=156m
&
For d2=50m;
d2/L0= 0.3205 < 0.5 & >0.05, hence, d2 is intermediate water.
L2=L0tanh(kd) =151.17m
&
C2=L2/T = 15.12 m/s

Problem 1
For d3=5m;
d1/L0= 0.032 < 0.05 & hence, d3 is shallow water.
L3=L0tanh(kd) = 67.63m
& C3=L3/T = 6.76 m/s
Summary:
Depth
Description
Wave length, L
(m)
Celerity, C
(m/s)
d1=150m
Deep water
156
15.6
d2=50m
Intermediate water
151.17
15.1
d3=5m
Shallow water
67.63
6.76
20
8/12/2014

Problem 2
Given: A wave with a period T = 8 sec, in a water depth d = 15 m, and a
height H = 5.5 m.
Find: The local horizontal and vertical velocities u and w, and accelerations
x and z when = (kx-t)=600, at following elevations below the SWL,
(a) z = -5 m
(b) z= -9
(c) z=-14
Solution:
For z=-5m;
&
Get the values of u & w and a x & a z for various z values and tabulated them.

Problem 3
Given: A wave in a depth d = 12 m, height H = 3 m, and a period T = 10 sec.
The corresponding deepwater wave height is H0 = 3.13 m.
Find: (a) The maximum horizontal and vertical displacement of a water
particle from its mean position when z = 0 and z = -d.
(b) The maximum water particle displacement at an elevation z = -7.5
m when the wave is in infinitely deep water.
(c) For the deepwater conditions of (b) above, show that the particle
displacements are small relative to the wave height when z = -L0 /2.
Solution: (a) for z=0m;
Step 1: Calculate L0 & L
Step 2: Calculate A & B
21
8/12/2014

Problem 4
Given: An average maximum pressure p = 124 kN/m2 is measured by a
subsurface pressure gauge located in sea 0.6m above the bed in a water
depth d = 12 m . The average wave period is 15sec.
Find: The height of the wave, H assuming that linear theory applies.
Solution:
Step 1: Calculate L0 & L

Step 2: Rearrange the pressure formula !!
We know that,
and also know that;

Apply in p and find H.
22

Part Linear Wave Theory BRN

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Part Linear Wave Theory BRN

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

8/12/2014

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan

Wave generation by Wind

Wave generation by Wind

Distribution of energy as a function of wave periods and types

Wave generation by Wind

Wave generation by Wind

Wave generation by Wind

The state of the sea, in which the input of

Wave generation by Wind

Small amplitude wave theory

Small amplitude wave theory

The continuity eqn is expressed in terms of , as;

Small amplitude wave theory

are longer than the length where surface

tension effects are important);

The waves are long-crested and the wave amplitude is small.

Small amplitude wave theory

Small amplitude wave theory

Kinematic Free Surface BC

Small amplitude wave theory

Dynamic Free Surface BC

Small amplitude wave theory

and are obtained by the solution of 2 =0, with application of boundary

Small amplitude wave theory

- The convective inertia term is neglected.

- with assumption of small amplitude waves;

Small amplitude wave theory

- The convective terms are neglected.

So, the approximated KFSBC is;

Small amplitude wave theory

As the solution must be periodic, we specify T(t) =sin t, where, is angular

Now the velocity potential becomes;

Small amplitude wave theory

The x can vary independently of z and vice versa.

where, k can be real or imaginary.

This is an ordinary differential equation & can be solved separately.

Small amplitude wave theory

Small amplitude wave theory

Applying the periodic BC;

& apply bottom BC;

Small amplitude wave theory

The terms within the brackets are constant; therefore, is given as a

Small amplitude wave theory

Small amplitude wave theory

And the corresponding will be;

Properties of linear waves

Applying the values of =2/T and k= 2/L in the above equation;

and rearranging the terms;

Celerity / speed of wave

Similar algebraic manipulation gives another relationship;

Properties of linear waves

In addition, the wave length equation is a iterative equation;

Properties of linear waves

The hyperbolic functions present in

Properties of linear waves

Deep water: The dispersion relation reduces to,

Properties of linear waves

surface deep water particle speed

phasing term dependent on

particle velocity variation over the vertical

Properties of linear waves

Properties of linear waves

Which is a equation of ellipse with semi-axis A & B in x-z directions.