ItMa 2014 07

ITALIA!
Issue 116 July 2014 4.40
NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com
HOLIDAYS PROPERTY FOOD WINE CULTURE PEOPLE
PERFECT TUSCANY
! ay
IN
W
mily holid
ore yourself with a visit to the spectacular

landscapes of rural Tuscany
A fa
to Sardinia
worth
2000
Venice in a weekend
Discover the best of La Serenissima
SICILYS HIDDEN HILL TOWNS
Explore the island shaped by Etna
LAKE GARDAS BEST
SWIMMING SPOTS
Property ideas to maximise your budget

THE UKS AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY
COOKING
WITH GINO
Quick Italian dishes
to cook at home
Issue 116 July 2014 4.40
07
9 771744 796054
W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !
Welcome!
Cover image iStock photo. This image Marina Spironetti
Catholicism is such a driving force

across Italy it is hard to visit the
country and not experience it. It is
there in the Madonna shrines set into
the street, the epic religious buildings
and in the large Italian families that
give the country such a sense of
community. But what about other
beautiful religious buildings and
communities? I had a letter from a reader this week about
the many vibrant Jewish buildings of Italy and the trip she
spent exploring them. Ive also just returned from Ischia,
where the town of Forio has a distinctly mosque-like
quality to its buildings due to the number of pirates who
settled here. This had me thinking beyond Catholicism.
Do any other readers have different experiences?
Of course history brings the gods of the Romans to
Italy. Turn to page 48 to discover the ancient city of
Syracuse in Sicily and its historical delights. Were also in
Sicily for Jane Giffords tour of the island dominated by
Etna, on page 38. And if you want to tour south Italys
island wines, join me on page 89 for some great whites.
If your spiritual ideal is bathing in the clear waters of
Italy, turn to page 64 for a guide of the wild swimming
spots around Lake Garda. Partnered with a picnic of some
good Italian cheese and salumi, and a chilled glass of
something, it certainly sounds like my idea of heaven.
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THIS MONTHS CONTRIBUTORS

SEBASTIAN
CRESSWELL-TURNER
is a writer, translator
and Italia!s bilingual
correspondent.
But this month he
is taking a break
from Gazzetta and
indulging his love
of walking and where better than in
Tuscany? He reports from the picturesque
Chianti Hills, which he explored on a trip
with Hedonistic Hiking, on page 55.
GINO DACAMPO has

been busy in the
kitchen researching
his new book, Pronto!
Showcasing some
simple and tasty
recipes, as well as
shortcuts for big
avour in quick
Italian meals, you can get a taste of the
new collection with four of his recipes
beginning on page 80. Leave it to Gino to
make his food look just as good as he does.
LAURA SANTTINI is
a cook, author and
restaurateur. Her
family established
Belgravias Santini
restaurant, a
favourite of Frank
Sinatra, which
Laura now oversees
alongside her work as a food developer
with her range of avour enhancing
powders and pastes. See the range at www.
laurasanttini.com or nd them in Waitrose.
July 2014 ITALIA! 3
71
80
64
IN THI
July 2014
PROPERTY
20 HOMES IN UMBRIA
The Green Heart of Italy is much adored by
discerning visitors and foreign homebuyers,
says Fleur Kinson.
60 PROPERTY FOCUS: LE MARCHE
That perfect combination of mountain and
sea is easy to find in Le Marche, Italys most
up-and-coming region.
60
48
HOLIDAYS
30 48 HOURS IN VENICE
Marina Spironetti discovers the authentic
pleasures of Italys most fairy-tale city.
38 IN THE SHADOW OF MOUNT ETNA
Jane Gifford explores one of the worlds
largest and most active volcanoes.
48 DISCOVER SYRACUSE
Gretta Schifano found an abundance of
archaeological sites to explore.
55 HIKING IN TUSCANY
Sebastian Cresswell-Turner joins Hedonistic
Hiking for a taste of their walking tours.
64 WILD SWIMMING
Michele Tameni highlights the best spots to
take a dip on and around Lake Garda.
4 ITALIA! July 2014
71 SPECIAL PLACES TO STAY IN ITALY

Alastair Sawday selects six Italian homestays
where you really feel part of the family.
75
CULTURE
29 SPEAK ITALIA!
Tamsin Smith examines the effects of Ethical
Purchasing Groups on how Italians buy food.
70 FERRAGAMO
Freya Middleton charts the rise of Salvatore
Ferragamo and his luxury goods company.
FOOD & DRINK

75 4 TAKES ON COFFEE
Weve got some great coffee-based recipes for
you all luxurious, yet so simple to make.
78 CHEFS NOTES
Laura Santtini explains how slow cooking is
central to the Italian kitchen.
80 PRONTO!
Gino DAcampo reveals some simple shortcuts
for cooking quick Italian meals.
84 BUY ITALIA!
We taste the best Italian dried pasta.
89 DRINK ITALIA!
Hannah Bellis tries some island whites.
84
IN THIS ISSUE
LAKE GARDA
p30
p64
p55
VENICE
TUSCANY
p60
UMBRIA
LE MARCHE
p20
ASCOLI PICENZA
ROME
p46
PUGLIA
p38
SYRACUSE
p10
SICILY
p48
MORE ITALIA!
7 PHOTO OF THE MONTH
Enter your photographs for your chance
to win a bottle of Nino Franco Prosecco!
9 LETTERS
Readers share their stories and pictures
from their experiences in Italy.
10 VIEWPOINT
San Nicola, in Puglias Tremiti
Archipelago.
12 NEWS
All the headline stories from
Italy this month.
16 TOP PICKS
Picnics, sunglasses and special
reader offers.
18 EVENTS IN JULY
Highlights from across Italy for
your forthcoming visit.
36 COMPETITION
Win a 2,000 family holiday to Sardinia.
ON THE COVER
44 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
Save 25 per cent off the shop price when
you subscribe to Italia!
46 PAST ITALIA!
The golden mosaic ceiling of Romes Santa
Maria in Trastevere.
86 ASK THE EXPERTS
Insider knowledge on living,
working and travelling in Italy.
92 BOOK REVIEWS
This months new releases.
94 GETTING THERE
Plan your ights to Italy from
the UK and Ireland.
98 MY ITALIA!
Charlotte Jaconelli and partner
Jonathan Antoine nished as
runners-up in Britains Got
Talent in 2012. What is she up
to now?
p55
p36
p30
p80
p38
p64
p20 p60
ITALIA!
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CONTRIBUTORS
Rachel Beckwith, Louise Cassell, Sebastian Cresswell-Turner,
Gino DAcampo, Dan Fox, Jane Gifford, Fleur Kinson, Freya Middleton,
Adam ONeill, Laura Santtini, Alastair Sawday, Gretta Schifano, Chris Short,
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READERS PHOTO
COMPETITION!
W
IN
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NI
N
PR O F
OS RA
ECC NC
O& OR
CH UST
ILL ICO
ER
Send us your favourite photos from your Italian travels, and each month the
best photo will win a bottle of Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco and cooler*!
THIS MONTHS WINNER
Leslie Toth, Heidelberg,
Ontario, Canada
We have many sweet memories
of Italy, from driving experiences
noboody drives like the Italians
to unforgettable restaurants and
fascinating accommodations.
THIS MONTHS
RUNNER UP
Rachel Markwick
We recently spent a week in
Rome followed by a week in a
small town near Viterbo. On
the morning after our arrival
in the village of Bassano in
Teverina, we were suddenly
surrounded by Fiat 500s as
there was a rally of a local
owners club!
HOW TO ENTER Email high-resolution (300dpi) jpegs of

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entering the code italia10 at checkout.
Please note: Any photos you submit must be
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July 2014 ITALIA! 7
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LETTERS TO ITALIA!
Share all your Italian experiences with us by sending your photos
and letters to italia@anthem-publishing.com youll receive
a gourmet gift set if youre chosen as our Letter of the Month winner
ETTER
NTH L
BLOGGING IN UMBRIA
JULY
2014
OF T
I am a regular reader of Italia magazine and

enjoy the mix of features, gossip and travel
articles. Just a year ago my partner and I bought
an apartment in Umbria and I have been blogging
about our Italian experiences since January this
year there are 12 postings to date. In many ways Umbria is at the
heart of all that my partner and I love about Italy. It has an attractive
landscape, a great climate, terric traditions in food and wine and
endless opportunities to indulge our art historical and cultural
interests. Not only all of that we can easily travel by road or rail to
Rome, Florence or indeed any other part of the country. Perfect.
A friend suggested you might be interested in having a look at it.
You can see it at umbriaandtuscanyunravelled.blogspot.co.uk
Ian Cox, email
but they were isolated and barren.

Next I went to Penne, which has
a marvellous medieval feel. I was
shown ats of two English couples
but while both were stylish, both
also had old roofs, all leaking and
falling in. They advised me not to
bother and I was inclined to agree.
What should I do?
MO
HE
Umbria is a beautiful region, Ian, that doesnt receive nearly as

much coverage as its more well-known neighbour Tuscany. Im
glad you found it and youre enjoying being part of the life there
we look forward to following your progress!
Umbria is at the heart of all

that I love about Italy
Check out this blog about Umbria for some
great stories about the region
Chris Gray, email
ITS A DOGS LIFE

A friend of mine lived on the
Amal coast for 30 years. She
moved back to the UK 18 months
ago, with her canine pal Luigi.
After being used to sunning himself
in the Med, Luigi has adapted to
the UK climate and is happily
frolicking in the woods now great
to know that it is possible to make
these journeys with our dear pets!
Mary Samson, email
So happy to hear Luigi is enjoying life in the
UK! Indeed it is possible to travel with a pet.
But do check with a vet what arrangements
must be made vaccinations, pet passports
and so on before you set off.
ALL MAPPED OUT

Ive been meaning to ask for ages
whether the map of Italy you
use in each issue, highlighting
the locations of topics covered, is
available to buy as a poster?
Tess Lesley, email
Sorry, Tess, that map is our own creation but
we dont have it available in poster format. We
can only wish you luck in nding another one.
GOOD TIMES IN
ABRUZZO?
Our letter of the month (when based in the UK) will win a 25
voucher to spend at www.delicibo.com, recently launched to
complement the Chestereld-based Calabria Cucina & Delicibo Deli.
delicibo.com
provides a
wide range of
artisan Italian
food and drink
items for your
enjoyment at
home.
I have just visited Abruzzo with

the dream of nding a house and
moving to Italy. I ventured out with
three estate agents and was shown
properties near the Italian national
park needing work, but which can
only can be described as ruins. The
next agent took me to habitable
houses just beneath the mountains,
Dont give up, Chris. Try different estate agents,

ask to see references from past clients about
their selling experiences. And do more research
on the internet, read about those who have
found rewarding properties it is certainly
possible as the stories on our pages testify.
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July 2014 ITALIA! 9
VIEWPOINT
100,000 visitors come to San Nicola in the Tremiti Archipelago
in Puglia in the summer season. Ferry services from the mainland
operate from Termoli, Foggia, Vieste, Rodi Garganico and Capoiale
The Isole Tremiti are an archipelago in the
Adriatic Sea, and their name relates to
their seismic hazard tremiti translates to
tremors. The area is known for its crystalclear waters and pleasantly mild climate.
Of the five small islands, San Nicola is
the smallest but also where most of the
areas population resides as a small tourist
centre that is home to only a small handful
10 ITALIA! July 2014
of restaurants, but surrounded by 30km

of stunning sea. The island was used as
a penal colony during Benito Mussolinis
Fascist regime and also boasts a fortress
that was built to protect against pirates
and invaders. Dont let this small islands
size fool you though, because there is so
much to do here that youll find yourself
!
spending more than a day exploring it. Q
July 2014 ITALIA! 11
NEWS
THIS MONTH
July 2014
In Italian news this month, the reforestation of the peninsula,

Davids failing ankles, the lack of maintenance of the nations
artistic heritage, and is red wine really good for you?
Photography iStock Photo and PA Photos unless otherwise stated
AN ARBOREAL
RENAISSANCE
Italy is experiencing sustained reforestation,
according to a recently published inventory.
The Inventario Nazionale Forestale reports
the most pronounced new growth since 2005
in agricultural regions such as Molise and Sicily,
which have seen areas of woodland increase by 17
and 16 per cent respectively. Presenting the ndings, Dr Enrico
Pompei identied old farmland, especially in hilly, southern
areas, as the new territory trees are colonizing. CO2 absorbed
by forests in Italy is equivalent to half the emissions from the
transport sector, claimed Dr Pompei, though he warned of
the risk of forest res from densely-packed young trees.
Bristly Italy is now 35 per cent forest, roughly three times
the proportion of balding Britain, but some way behind
hirsute Sweden, Europes woodiest nation, at 75 per cent.
SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS
WORLD CUP WILL BE A FAMILY
AFFAIR FOR PRANDELLIS TEAM
Cesare Prandelli, head coach of the Italian
national football team, has welcomed
players families into their training camp
in Brazil. While acknowledging the novelty
of the decision, he hopes that the presence
of children will bring harmony and
happy moments. Italy always enters the
World Cup under intense scrutiny and high
expectations, though they are considered
outsiders this time around. The Azzurri last
won the tournament in 2006.
EERIE ISLAND AUCTIONED

Poveglia in the Venice Lagoon has become
the creepiest state-owned property yet
sold. The island, believed to be haunted by
the spirits of plague victims and asylum
inmates, is set to be possessed by an Italian
businessman. Luigi Brugnaro secured a
99-year lease with a bid of 513,000,
seeing off the local Poveglia Association,
who are spooked at the prospect of private
ownership. Brugnaro has vowed to restore
the deserted island to public use,
committing 20 million in investment.
Bristly Italy is now 35 per cent forest, roughly three times the proportion of
balding Britain, but some way behind hirsute Sweden, Europes woodiest
nation, at 75 per cent
DAVID STILL STANDING ON
FRACTURED ANKLES
Bad posture can lead to joint problems in
the ttest of us, and standing slouched
against a tree stump for over half a
millennium seems to have caught up with
Michelangelos statue of David.
Scientists have discovered microfractures on the lower part of
both legs, likely caused by
vibrations from visitors and
passing trafc, and the poor
quality marble from which
David is sculpted.
However, calls to
move his ve and a
half tonne frame
from the Galleria
dellAccademia
to a dedicated,
earthquakeproof home
have been
rejected
by Florences
museum authority. Spokesman Marco
Ferri asserted that even if there
is an earthquake of 5.0 or 5.5 on
the Richter scale, Florence will stay
in one piece. And David would be
the last to fall, simultaneously
reassuring art lovers while also
tempting fate.
ARTS SWELTERING SPRING

Romes Borghesi Gallery has become a hothouse threatening to wilt the works of Raphael,
Rubens, Titian and other artists. Air conditioning failing during the spring heatwave, which
director Anna Coliva blames on a chronic lack of maintenance... due to a lack of resources
has left the gallery with little option but to open the windows. Yet this risks exposing the
paintings to the capitals unltered trafc fumes, and diesel particulates will only dull the
stark, baroque contrasts of Caravaggios Madonna of the Palafrenieri. Its not the rst time
heat has caused such problems part of Florences Ufzi Gallery was closed in 2012 because
of high temperatures, and the Sistine Chapel has new aircon to protect Michelangelos
exquisite frescoes from the heat rising up from 20,000 visitors per day. But funding cuts
are increasingly blamed for putting Italys artistic heritage in as precarious a position as its
economy.
S...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPE
MEDITERRANEAN DIET JUNKED?
Southern Italians are choosing junk food
over their traditional menu of sh, olive
oil and plenty of fruit and vegetables,
according to Italys state broadcaster, RAI.
An advert promoting the World Expo in
2015 cited statistics claiming that half
the population of Campania is overweight.
It ended with the provocative question,
When will the Mediterranean diet come
home? Stefano Pisani, the trim mayor of
Pollica, branded the advert an offence to
the dignity of the people.
ACTORS SWEARING PRIMER

Better known for delivering Jane Austens verbose
dialogue or playing a stuttering king, Colin Firth has
professed his love of punchy Italian insults. In an
interview promoting his new lm, The Railway Man, the
actor used a word perhaps too rude, even in Italian, to
be repeated in a magazine with a bilingual readership.
But the actor and his Italian wife have won praise for
his pronunciation of terms like guraccio (inelegantly
translating as poor gure). The lm star says his uency
with the romance language would be good enough for an
Italian movie, as long as Im playing an Englishman.
NEWS
RED WINE NO ELIXIR

AFTER ALL
The benecial effects of
resveratrol, the supposed
miracle compound found in
chocolate, peanuts, berries
and red wine, have been
debunked, at least as part of
the Tuscan diet. Researchers
led by Dr Richard Semba of
Johns Hopkins University,
Baltimore, found no positive
correlation between high levels
of resveratrol intake and longevity,
in a study of 783 over-65-year-olds
in Tuscany, between 1998 and 2009. The
ndings have quashed the excitement over
recently published results of the remarkable effects
of the antioxidant on mice. Although the rodents
enjoyed a host of health benets on a proportionally
far larger dose, Dr Semba found nothing to suggest
that humans would too. But oenophiles can still take
heart in wines other polyphenols. Flavonols derived
from the grapes pips, rather than the skin, are still
thought to moderate blood pressure and counter
damaging free-radicals. Reds rich in tannins are the
best source, for those who have the palate.
HARRY HONOURS THE FALLEN

18 May marked the 70th anniversary of the capture of Monte Cassino,
a crucial objective in the Italian Campaign during the Second World
War. Prince Harry paid his respects with other dignitaries, including the
Prime Minister of Poland, as well as 50 veterans of the Polish II Corps,
who nally secured the summit after multiple assaults by the Allies.
Standing 81 miles south-east of Rome, Monte Cassino dominated one of
the few viable routes to the capital. Atop sat the historic abbey, established
by Benedict of Nursia in 529 AD. Despite the Germans declaring the
building would not be occupied, the Allies suspected it was being used as
an artillery observation post and obliterated it with heavy bombing during
February 1944. However, the rubble was occupied by German paratroopers
and provided excellent cover for the defenders to hold out for nearly three
months. In all, an estimated 250,000 died during the battle.
Researchers led by Dr Richard Semba of Johns Hopkins University,

Baltimore, found no positive correlation between high levels of resveratrol
intake and longevity, in a study of 783 over-65-year-olds in Tuscany
ESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PR
LONDON ART WEEK
GIRO DITALIA GOES TO IRELAND
London Art Week, launched last year,

is the platform that unites Master
Drawings and Sculpture Week and Master
Paintings Week. This collaboration brings
together some 50 specialist dealers
from across the ne art disciplines and
three major London auction houses.
Special exhibitions and other events will
be staged by all the participants. The
2014 event will be held from 4 to 11
July a date for collectors, curators and
enthusiasts from all over the world.
The Giro dItalia, Italys premier cycle

race event, had its most successful Big
Start ever last month in Northern Ireland.
Stage 1 involved a team time trial around
Belfast, Stage 2 saw the opening road
stage, again around Belfast, and Stage 3
took the riders from Armagh to Dublin.
Hundreds of thousands of spectators lined
the route and everything imaginable had
turned pink to welcome this famous event.
The nal stages took place in Veneto, the
home of Italian cycling.
MORE MIGRANTS DROWN EN ROUTE TO ITALY

Tragedy has struck yet again in the Mediterranean with the deaths of at least 17 people
after their boat sank. The vessel was thought to be carrying approximately 400 hopeful
migrants when it sank in May, between Libya and Sicily. The Italian coastguard was able
to rescue at least 200, but the number missing remains unknown. In a separate incident,
the Libyan Navy rescued 340 migrants when their boat got into difculties not far off
Tripoli. Libya is struggling to cope with the ow of migrants from all over Africa passing
through its porous borders, and thousands are said to be massed on its coast, awaiting a
chance to sail to Europe. Both the Italian and Libyan governments see this as a problem
Europe must tackle collectively, as many migrants seek a new life in the north of the
continent, merely passing through Italy, should
they make the perilous crossing.
The lavish wedding of Kim

Kardashian and Kanye West
took place amid condemnation
from local politicians
WEB WATCH
Pets on Holiday
KIM AND KANYES FORTE AMORE

Marriage is like a fortress besieged,
wrote Lon de Tinseau, perhaps
predicting the paparazzi
encirclement of the Forte di
Belvedere in Florence on
24 May. The wedding of
Kimberly Noel Kardashian
and Kanye Omari West
took place amid lavish
celebrations, but also
condemnation from local
politicians. The happy
couple paid 300,000
to hire the venue, which
mayoral candidate Achille
Totaro sees as part of a
wider sell-off of Florences
monuments. The Palace of
Versailles was rst choice
but the seat of French kings
refused permission. Although
smaller, the Belvedere is an
opulent expression of status
and wealth. It was built in the
16th century by Grand Duke
Ferdinando I deMedici, to
be a secure refuge in case of
civil unrest. It is unclear what
attracted Mr West to the bulging
and heavily buttressed star fort.
RESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STO

CARLUCCIOS PASTA FESTIVAL
Carluccios restaurants are currently
hosting a Pasta Festival that runs until
20 July, celebrating all things pasta!
There are limited edition pasta varieties
available in all stores, as well as
appearances by Antonio Carluccio himself
to do signings of his new book, Pasta as
featured in the May issue of Italia! We had
the opportunity this month to pop down
to our local Carluccios for an informative
evening learning how to make pasta from
scratch more of which later
PETSINITALY.LAVIGNAALPACAS.COM
Have you ever wondered about the legal practicalities of taking
your pet to Italy? Do you need some advice on your pets health?
Or perhaps you want to nd out how to adopt a dog or cat in
Italy? This website offers everything you need, as animal lover
Fiona Tankard uses her decades of experience to advise you on
everything you could possibly want to know.
INAMORADA.COM
If youre looking for
some ne Italian
tailoring for your dogs,
then look no further.
Inamoradas philosophy
is to create an exclusive
line of canine haute
couture, and one look
at their website tells
you theyve achieved exactly that. All dogs, big and small, will
look their Sunday best in one of these stunning outts that look
like theyve come straight off the runway.
EN.ESCAPIO.COM/PET-FRIENDLY-HOTELS/ITALY
It can be tricky to nd a pet-friendly place to stay in Italy,
but this fantastically useful website resolves those problems
completely. With easily
navigable menus and
a visually appealing
homepage, this should
be anybodys go-to
for the best hotels
that Italy has to offer
people and their
faithful companions.
TOP
FOOD & PRODUCTS
TRY THIS!
ITALIA!S
Top picks
Its the season for al frecso eating and

sunglasses And special reader offers
TUSCANY AL FRESCO
BOARD WITH
VINTAGE PRINT
An acacia food board,
perfect for this summers
picnics, barbecues and
al fresco eating. 400
x 300 x 20mm. See
stockists for prices.
www.tg-woodware.com
CARLUCCIO'S PICNIC HAMPERS
This summer, make your al fresco escape in

true Italian style with a delicious Carluccios
picnic hamper. Simply collect on the day and
enjoy the true taste of Italy in your chosen
patch of green. Priced at 45, each picnic
hamper serves two and contains generous
portions of delicious regional Italian dishes,
made fresh on the day and presented
in a smart and reusable cool-bag. www.
carluccios.com/picnics @CarlucciosCaffe
www.facebook.com/carluccioscaffe
WEAR THESE!
MONDELLIANI
The Eolie eyewear collection from Mondelliani is

inspired by the seducing beauty and colours of the
Aeolian Islands. The frames are inuenced by the styles
of the 1960s and 1970s; the lenses are designed with either
a tone on tone colour combination, or colour contrast, to give a sense of personalisation to the
glasses and their shape. Mondelliani sunglasses are priced at 185 and sold at Wolf & Badger
(Notting Hill and Mayfair), Auerbach & Steele (Kings Rd) and Kirsten Goss (Holland St, W8).
VISIT THIS!
EAT THIS!
WELCOME ITALIA
Discover the avours of Italy! The
Welcome Italia show takes place at the
Royal Horticultural Halls, London SW1,
on 26-28 September 2014. The UKs best
Italian chefs, led by Francesco Mazzei,
will cook delicious signature dishes that
will transport your taste buds to Italy.
As well as cookery demonstrations,
there will be seminars and wine-tasting
events to introduce you to the origins of
Italian products. Bookings are open now.
Admission to the show is 10, but you
can get in for 5 by quoting the exclusive
code Italia. www.welcome-italia.co.uk
TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONT
Top 3 Italian
Italy is more famed for its wines than its

beers, but they do have a proud brewing
tradition none the less Ocado kindly sent
us samples of their Italian best sellers
Images Ocado www.ocado.com
LAGER BEERS
BIRRA MORETTI
Like so many brands, Birra Moretti
is now owned by Heineken. The
company was founded in Udine in 1859
by Luigi Moretti, but was acquired by
Heineken in 1996 and the brewing plant
in Udine was sold to the newly formed
Birra Castello SpA. Birra Moretti is the
main brand, a 4.6% ABV pale lager
launched in 1859; followed by La Rossa,
a 7.2% strong dark lager. Other brands
include Doppio Malto, Baffo dOro, and
Sans Souci. www.birramoretti.com
WIN!
PARMESAN CHEESE LAMP GRATE

Grate news for cheese lovers, design admirers and readers
of Italia! magazine. The Parmesan Cheese Lamp family from
www.parmesancheeselamp.com has a new member the
Parmesan Cheese Lamp Grate. And we have two of them to
give away free to Italia! readers.
Priced at 245, with its stylized stainless steel interior and
retro iron wire, this is the most stylish variant of the Parmesan
Cheese Lamps. Like all other Parmesan Cheese Lamps, the
Grate has the same proportions and details as a Parmesan
cheese. So, does it smell? Does it melt? Is it heavy? Three times
no. The lamp shade is made of plastic and only the size and
details are identical to a real Parmesan cheese.
To be in with a chance of winning one, simply email us at
italia@anthem-publishing.com with the subject Parmesan
Cheese Lamp. The winner will be drawn at random on 10 July
2014. For full terms and conditions, please see page 6.
www.qucina.nl
www.parmesancheeselamp.com
www.facebook.com/ParmesanCheeseLamp
@ParmesanLamp
NTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS
PERONI NASTRO AZZURRO

The Peroni Brewery was founded
by Francesco Peroni in Vigevano,
Lombardy, in 1846. It has been based
in Rome since 1864 (six years before
Rome became the capital of Italy) and is
now owned by the SABMiller group. Its
premium lager, Nastro Azzurro, which is
5.1% ABV, was launched in 1963 and is
now the companys most successful brand,
both in Italy and the UK. Crafted with the
Mediterranean palate in mind, its perfect
for summer. www.peroniitaly.com
PERONI GRAN RISERVA

DOPPIO MALTO
Created in 1996 to celebrate the
150th anniversary of the foundation of the
Peroni brewery, the Gran Riserva Doppio
Malto is one of the highest quality beers
in the Peroni portfolio. It has an intense
gold colour and, being a double malt lager,
a much fuller avour than youd expect.
It is also deceptively strong 6.6% ABV
so don't be fooled by the smaller 330ml
bottles, this one packs quite a punch.
www.peroniitaly.com
NEWS
EVENTS IN JULY 2014

Summer celebrations at the Festa della Madonna, the Notte Rosa and the Festa del
Cristo degli Abissi Music at the Umbria Jazz Festival, the Vasto Siren Festival and
the chance to see Nile Rodgers play in Lucca. Its all going on in Italy this July
1
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4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
FESTA DELLA MADONNA

BRUNA
2 July
Matera, Basilicata
You might want to wear
some ear plugs if you
plan to attend this
annual celebration,
which is in honour of
the towns patron saint,
Maria Santissima della
Bruna, with a procession
beginning at dawn that
slowly meanders through
the town. The display
features oats, street
parties and an evening
reworks display, said to
be one of the loudest in
Europe!
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15
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17
18
19
20
21
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24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
NOTTE ROSA
4 July
Adriatic Coast,
Emilia-Romagna
Think pink! Pink Night
in Emilia-Romagna is
seen as the Italian
summers New Years
Eve, with a amboyant
summer carnival in
celebration of nothing
more than the colour
pink. Attracting more
than 50,000 visitors
for a huge party and
pink reworks display,
many buildings and
monuments are bathed
in pink oodlighting
while the streets are
lined with pink streetlamps. Well leave you to
work the dress code out
for yourselves...
ALTA MODA ALTA ROMA

7-11 July
Rome
One of the major events
in the fashion industry,
this sees designers
from all over the
globe gathered in one
place with celebrities,
journalists and socialites
all paying witness to the
latest winter collections.
A central courtyard
hosts a series of catwalk
shows and displays,
making this a must for
anybody interested in
the fashion world.
UMBRIA JAZZ FESTIVAL

11-20 July
Perugia
Attracting more than
200,000 people each
year, the Umbria Jazz
Festival is a ten-day
event steeped in live
jazz music performed
by artists from all over
the world. Now in its
41st year, many of the
performances are done
outdoors and will also
include elements of
rock and roll, Cuban and
world music, so fans of
any music genre are sure
to nd something to
enjoy here!
DISFIDA DEGLI ARCIERI

DI TERRA E DI CORTE
13 July
Fivizzano, Tuscany
This event harks back
to medieval days, as
a procession marches
through the streets of
Fivizzano with many
people dressed in
medieval attire. Later
on, ve archers (one
from each of the towns
ve zones) line up to
sling their arrows at ve
targets. In the week
before the festival, each
zone holds a dinner for
its members and puts on
a show for visitors and
townspeople.
U FISTINU SANTA
ROSALIA
15 July
Palermo
This is one of the most
famous and popular
festivals in Sicily, in
honour of patron Saint
Rosalia whose miracle
rid the town of plague
in the 17th century.
The week leading up to
15 July sees Palermo
become a natural openair theatre, featuring
musical bands, Cuban
dancers, parades and
reworks, as well as
a cultural feast that
includes tiny snails and
ice-cream puddings.
CHIC FEATURING
NILE RODGERS
15 July
Piazza Napoleone, Lucca
Its time to get your freak
on! For one night only, as
part of Luccas Summer
Festival, Nile Rodgers,
disco genius and founder
of Chic, is performing
a show to thousands of
spectators who want
to re-live the disco era
of years ago. With the
perfect setting in Luccas
bustling town square,
the warm summer night
makes this a concert you
wont want to miss.
FESTA DEL CRISTO

DEGLI ABISSI
26 July
San Fruttuoso, Liguria
During the ceremony
VASTO SIREN FESTIVAL
for this traditional
24-27 July
religious festival, the
Vasto, Abruzzo
towns bells will switch
This music and arts
off all electric lighting,
festival is host to
FESTA DEL REDENTORE
leaving the village lit
intimate concert
20-21 July
only by eerie candlelight.
experiences within
Venice
A procession then leads
historic venues such as
The Festa del Redentore
to the sea, where the
the Palazzo DAvalos, a
is an annual festival
priest, accompanied by
15th-century palace on
that was started in
boats, throws a laurel
a hill overlooking the
1577 to thank Jesus for
wreath into the sea to
Adriatic Sea. Visitors can the underwater statue of
answering the prayers
experience local culture, Christ. In the evening, a
of the plague-infested
food and wine as they
city. A favourite among
mass takes place on the
enjoy performances of
Venetians, hundreds
beach in dedication to all
alternative rock and indie those who have lost their
of people load into
gondolas and illuminated pop music by performers lives at sea.
from Italy, the United
boats decorated with
States and Europe.
owers and balloons to
enjoy a dinner of local
cuisine and wine. Then
at 11.30pm, the reworks
display begins.
PALIO DELLE BARCHE

27 July
Lake Trasimeno, Umbria
An exhilarating event to
witness, this one! The
historical re-enactment
tells the story of rivalry
between two historic
Perugian families. On
the last Sunday of the
month, a race takes
place involving 160
contestants on four
teams, who must race in
water, then on land, and
back in the water again!
It includes a gruelling
run up the steep steps
to the fortress that
overlooks Passignano,
carrying an extremely
heavy boat. Spectators
are guaranteed a great
atmosphere.
Guillem Lopez/Alamy
Festa del Redentore, Venice
SERATA DI SUONI E
SAPORI NELLULIVETO
28 July
Limone, Lake Garda
The picture-postcard
town of Limone is wellknown in Italy for its
lemon gardens and olive
groves. On this evening
of sounds and avours,
a food fair takes place
amongst the olive groves,
combined with the
music of various local
ensembles, making this
a truly authentic Italian
experience. During the
holiday season, the
Tourist Board offers free
guided walks of the area.
Please note that the dates of all events are subject to change. If you plan to attend, check events are going ahead before you travel. All attempts are made to present the correct details.
L I V I N G I TA L I A !
Homes in
Umbria
nug in the very centre of the Italian peninsula,

with Tuscany and Le Marche as bedfellows,
Umbria is an enchantingly serene region of
expansive rural vistas and captivating ancient
hill towns. Spacious and leafy, Umbria promotes
itself as the green heart of Italy. But more than a heart,
it seems to be the countrys spiritual soul. Many of Italys
most revered saints and mystics came from Umbria (St
Francis, St Clare, St Benedict, etc.), and the region is home
to some of the nations most gorgeous religious buildings
(Assisis radiant basilica, Orvietos
show-stopping cathedral, etc).
Confronted with a landscape like
Umbrias, who wouldnt feel a sense of
divine inspiration? The dreamy lie of
the land here seems naturally to incline
the mind to higher things. With softly
undulating mountains lining the
distance and smoothly rounded hills
nearby, your eye is continually drawn to
the upward-climbing land and the sky
beyond it. Umbria is a bucolic vision
of heaven, prettily cloaked in olive
groves and vineyards, in open elds and
woodlands. And perched atop its hills
are its exquisite medieval hill towns,
appearing like pale-coloured fairytales
in the distance.
LOOKING UP AND OUT
Umbria arguably has a greater
abundance of perfect ancient hill
towns than any other region of Italy.
Unchanged for centuries, and offering a very high quality

of life, these skyward-reaching settlements are treasure
troves of art and architecture where pedestrian-friendly
old alleys and cobbled streets open onto perfect piazzas
lined with beautiful buildings. Meanwhile, the wide vistas
seen from balconies, roof terraces and ramparts provide a
pleasing counterpoint to the snug intimacy of the resident
community. Thinly populated, with fewer than a million
inhabitants, Umbria easily absorbs its many annual visitors
from afar without feeling overcrowded. It somehow pulls
off the impossible trick of being
adored by tourists yet remaining
unspoilt. Deep tranquillity and a sense
of space are its abiding features.
Like every Italian region, Umbria
sees a fair bit of internal geographic
variety. In its central stretches, fertile
valleys unfurl between rounded
elevations, but the regions northern,
eastern and southern extremes climb
higher, fracturing into crags that
can be bald or thickly covered in
forest. Umbria is one of the very
few landlocked Italian regions,
but it makes up for this with some
splendid lakes chief of these being
Lake Trasimeno, a warm, shallow
playground ringed by pretty elds and
appealing little towns.
But the sea is never too far away,
at only about 90 minutes to the
Delightful Todi, with its rich heritage,
Mediterranean in the west and the
offers choice properties to buy
Adriatic in the east, and road and
All photographs iStock Photo unless otherwise stated
A tranquil paradise of undulating countryside crowned with perfect medieval hill towns,
Umbria is much adored by discerning visitors and foreign homebuyers. Property prices are on
your side at the moment and its a great time to buy, says Fleur Kinson
Assisi
LAKE BOLSENA
Type of property Country House
Number of bedrooms 5
Price 900,000 ono
Location Orvieto, Terni
Contact www.homesitalia.co.uk homesitalia@yahoo.co.uk
Set in the hills above Lake Bolsena, in the beautiful Orvietano
countryside. Renovated about 15 years ago, it has a full-sized
swimming pool, mature garden and nine acres of land, with
the possibility of buying another nine acres with stables. The
main house is approx. 550m and there also two grain silos to
be renovated. The house also incorporates two independent
apartments. On the ground oor there is an entrance hall,
three reception rooms, a kitchen, storeroom, bathroom, and an
independent apartment off the entrance hall. On the rst oor
there are ve bedrooms three with mezzanine oors four
bathrooms, and an independent apartment made up of living
room, kitchenette, bathroom and bedroom with mezzanine oor.
Stunning landscapes abound around Spoleto
rail connections are surprisingly

good, given the regions relatively
sparse population.
MARKET PAST AND PRESENT
The earliest foreign buyers started
trickling into Umbria about 30 years
ago, many of them simply seeking
Its not unreasonable to expect prices in

Umbria to begin a very gentle climb upward
lower property prices than those in
Umbrias increasingly fashionable
neighbour Tuscany. What many
discovered as a bonus to the lower
prices was that they found Umbria
even more enchanting than its betterknown neighbour. Prices in both
regions rose steadily for a long time
Orvieto can be found to the west of the region
CASALE LE ROSE
Type of property Farmhouse
Price 550,000
Location Paciano, Perugia
Contact www.ilcastelloditara.com info@ilcastelloditara.com
Casale Le Rose is a charming 19th century farmhouse of
approximately 200m on two oors with garden and pool. The
garden, which is over half an acre, has vines and olives as well as
a little orchard and pool area. Everything is easily manageable.
The house was beautifully restored, underoor heating put in and
all the original features maintained, including the old terracotta
tiles. There are three bedrooms, two bathrooms, living room and
kitchen on the rst oor. The ground oor was converted into
a little guest at, an art studio and a laundry room with cellar.
There is also an out building full of potential and even the option
of purchasing an adjacent plot of land with building permission
for a one bedroom apartment.
afterwards soon establishing nearparity.

The onset of international
economic woes in 2008 saw a sharp
decline in foreign buyers in Umbria
and the market remained slow
throughout the ensuing recession.
But economic difculties havent hit
Italian property markets as hard as

you might expect. This is not a nation
prone to boom-and-bust dynamics
when it comes to property. Italians
tend not to over-build, thus they
protect the value of existing homes,
and unlike the British they tend
not to view properties primarily as
cash cows to be milked as much and

as often as possible. Stability, with
gentle rises and sinks, typies the
Italian market.
Property prices in Umbria have
certainly drifted down since 2008,
but not by a disastrous amount. With
improved economic times apparently
happening around us now, its not
unreasonable to expect prices in
Umbria and elsewhere in Italy to
begin a very gentle climb upward
again in the not-too-distant future. So
now is a very good time to look for a
home in Umbria. Your money will go
further than it would have done a few
years ago and also than it might do in
a few years time.
NUMBERS AND ADVICE
So what exactly might you expect
to spend? Surprisingly, its not
impossible to get yourself a home
in Umbria for less than 100,000.
Small, restored apartments in quite
desirable places can certainly be
had for this amount. For around
150,000, there are small twobedroom houses to consider, and
three-bedroom apartments in some
charming medieval towns. Small
country houses get going at around
200,000, and larger farmhouses
at around 300,000. Large, fullyrestored farmhouses with pools
generally ask from 700,000 to 1
million or more.
And if youre lucky enough to
have several millions to spend, you
might pick up a luxury country estate
with dozens of bedrooms.
OUR LIFE IN UMBRIA
Continued on
page 26
irabel and Bertie Capstick from Warwickshire bought a two-bedroom

house overlooking Lake Trasimeno in 2012. They spend three months
there every summer, and enjoy several two-week visits at other times
of the year. Before we discovered Italy, we spent many years holidaying in
France, Mirabel says. We almost regret doing that now, because as soon as
we made our rst trip to Italy we realized that this was the place we would
always love most and we never wanted to go anywhere else! The landscapes, the
architecture, the food, and the happy, friendly Italian people enchanted us. At
rst we made lots of trips to Lake Como and Lake Garda. Weve both always
preferred the calm of lakes to the wildness of the sea. Then we discovered the
smaller and sleepier central Italian lakes places like Bracciano, Bolsena and
Trasimeno and we decided to start looking for a house to buy.
A friend advised us to put in an offer below our vendors asking price and
see what happened. What happened was that we ended up with a lovely house
for a very good price! We knew that Umbria was one of the more popular parts
of Italy for overseas buyers like ourselves, and we hadnt been certain whether
we would be able to afford to buy in the region. But we were. In fact, we found
quite a few properties that seemed very reasonably-priced indeed.
Our house is in a village less than a mile from the lake. We have a beautiful
tree-dappled walk down to the water. Lake Trasimeno is quite shallow, which
means the water gets lovely and warm during the summer, and its a delight
to loll about in it. The house was habitable when we bought it, and fully
functional, which was great because we didnt really want to get bogged down
in a restoration project. Some friends of ours have restored a house in Italy, and
while they had a very good experience of doing it, we knew that all the waiting
and mess wasnt for us!
The best thing is our terrace. Its huge, and very private. We can gaze
down to the lake from it, and even watch the sunset over the water from
there at certain times of the year. The lakeside towns and villages are really
charming, and there are some wonderful restaurants. Theres a sort of Trasimeno
community among all the people who live round the lake. Its really lovely how
that body of water unites us all. We have lots of friends across the area fellow
inglesi like ourselves, but also plenty of local Italians. Were picking up the
language fast! Which is great, because were thinking about maybe retiring out
here eventually.
UMBRIA REGIONAL GUIDE
3
1
2
INTRODUCTION
Umbria is known as the green heart
of Italy, thanks to the fact that more
than 30 per cent of the region is made
up of woodland. This is a tranquil and
historically rich region, landlocked
on all sides by Tuscany, Lazio and
Le Marche, and situated right in
the middle of Italy although the
Mediterranean and Adriatic coasts
are both only around 90 minutes
drive away for those who just cant
keep away from the seaside. It is
pleasantly uncrowded: Umbrias
population density stands at half the
national average. Yet although it has
a low permanent population, visitor
numbers here are high tourists ock
to Umbria each year, but magically,
seem to be easily absorbed without

creating the hustle and bustle found
in other regions. The region remains
a peaceful, spiritual place, and plays
host to a wealth of ne historic
buildings, among them Assisis basilica
and Orvietos cathedral. The regions
peace is further enhanced by the
fact that Umbria is not criss-crossed
by major roads, although the A1
motorway glides past its western edge.
Rail and bus links are good, but a
car is essential if you want to get off
the beaten track. Umbria is also well
served by airports in both nearby
regions as well as ights to Umbrias
capital, Perugia. Politically, Umbria
is divided into two main provinces:
Perugia in the north and Terni in
the south, and geographically by the
valley of the River Tiber and the Valle

Umbria. Geologically, Europes main
faultline runs through Umbria, as
evidenced in the earthquake of 1997,
which destroyed frescoes in Assisi and
affected other towns in the region.
PERUGIA
1 Umbrias capital, Perugia, has a

signicant historical heritage as well
as being a vibrant university city with
two academic establishments. Its an
attractive medieval hill town, with a
3,000-year history that has witnessed
occupations by the Etruscans and
the Romans, among others. Perugia
also boasts some of Europes bestmaintained medieval streets, with a
host of superb palaces and piazze too.
A stylish and vibrant city, Perugia
is the venue for a variety of lively

festivals, especially during the summer
you wont want to miss the famous
chocolate festival! It is the gateway
to Umbria for most UK visitors arriving
by air since the advent of budget
Ryanair ights to its airport a few
years ago. While properties here can
be on the pricey side, holiday rental
returns can be great, and bountiful
with students and businessmen eager
for lodgings on a regular basis.
ASSISI
2 Just half an hours drive from

Perugia and visible for miles around
is the pink and cream hilltop town
of Assisi, an iconic vision known
throughout the world. Its another
medieval jewel and a designated World
Heritage Site, where you will nd the
Basilica of Saint Francis and other
Franciscan sites. Its a beautiful, mustvisit destination with year-round rental
potential and it offers a fantastic range
of property, although its prices reect
its desirability. It attracts streams
of pilgrims in search of religious
experiences, but theres so much more
to see in this cultural haven.
understandably among the regions

pricier towns for properties.
LAKE TRASIMENO
TERNI & THE SOUTH
3 Head west and youll nd the

Umbrian Riviera, Lake Trasimeno, with
its mild microclimate, delightful islands
and imperious castles. Its the fourth
largest lake in Italy and a magnet for
watersports enthusiasts, shermen
and cyclists. The views are serene and
this is a popular spot for a second
home and a great location for getting
welcome holiday rental returns.
ORVIETO & TODI
4 The tiny medieval town of Orvieto

is south of Perugia, high on the
remains of an ancient volcano. The
Etruscans were the original settlers,
but it is the medieval architecture
that denes the town. Todi is halfway
between Perugia and Terni another
small but beautiful ancient town,
famous for its historic heritage,
architecture, good food and wine.
The surrounding area is dotted with
interesting places to visit and lovely
countryside. Both Todi and Orvieto are
Perugia, Umbrias capital city and a place

where great holiday rentals can be enjoyed
5 The area to the south and

southeast of the region around the
town of Terni is the least populated
part of quiet Umbria. Terni itself is
the areas major city, but is largely
industrial, as the majority of its
medieval architecture was destroyed
during World War II. It has two
interesting claims to fame: as the
geographical centre of Italy there
was a plan in 1867 to make Terni the
countrys capital, which, as history
shows, was unsuccessful. Also, the
citys rst bishop was the martyred
St Valentine who became the
patron saint of lovers worldwide.
The surrounding area is largely
mountainous offering up unspoilt
valleys, rivers and meadows, and this
area is a prime location for trufe
hunters, a much-loved ingredient of
the local cuisine. A must-visit nearby
town in the area is Narni, another hill
town with a very ancient and
rich history.
The charms of Assisi attract religious tourists

and those after good rental returns
LA COLONNA
Type of property Apartment
Price 230,000, negotiable
Location Todi, Perugia
Contact Welcome Service
www.welcomeservice.it
info@welcomeservice.it
Mrs Paola +39 339 653 1677
Beautiful, antique, fully restored apartment with panoramic
terrace in the historical centre of Todi. The apartment shows
the original wooden beams and terracotta tiles and measures
approximately 100m on two levels. It features a large living room
with replace and kitchenette, one and a half bathrooms, one
large bedroom, and one study/bedroom with direct access into the
roof terrace. Furniture included.
NARNI
Type of property Country House
Price 800,000
Location Narni, Terni
Contact www.homesitalia.co.uk homesitalia@yahoo.co.uk
This 16th century country house (approx. 300m) is surrounded
by about three and a half acres of garden with olive trees and a
small vineyard. The view from the house is magnicent. The house
is on three levels, but since it was built on a hill, the lower level
still opens out onto the garden, allowing for a large amount of
light. On the lower oor the house has a spacious living room
with large French windows leading out onto the garden; on each
side of this room is a double bedroom with en-suite bathroom.
On the ground oor there is the main entrance hall, a large
reception/dining room with replace leading onto a large patio, a
kitchen and a bathroom. The rst oor is made up of two double
bedrooms, a single bedroom and a bathroom with shower.
Assisi is a magnet for religious tourists and

one of the most popular towns in the region
Marc Wisbey of Itili.com advises

that Prices are as much as 25 per
cent lower in Umbria now than they
were in 2008. Most in demand are
family homes of 400,000 and under.
Buyers should not be shy of asking
for discounts on properties they think
they cant afford; Italians arent. One
property in our area that came onto
the market for 1.4 million a few
years ago nally sold for 450,000
recently to an Italian! Builders and
geometras are keen for work, so a
restoration project could be a good
idea. Better still, there are lots of
semi-completed restoration projects,
that need relatively little to complete
to the buyers specications.
Adriana Benedetti of Umbrian
Property points out that not every
cheaper parts of Umbria. For the very

lowest prices, you should generally
look to the regions eastern and
southern edges, where higher, wilder
elevations see the least expensive
properties. Consider a handsome town
such as Gubbio or Narni and their
surrounding areas, or go for Umbrias
high, wild southeast corner with its
proximity to lovely little Norcia and
the nearby Sibillini Mountains. Note
that theres excellent value-for-money
to be had in some of Umbrias more
popular localities. Lake Trasimeno
near the Tuscan border, for example,
often has some surprisingly modestpriced homes in its vicinity.
Perhaps Umbrias two most
attractive areas are the Vale of
Spoleto in the central south and the
Theres excellent value-for-money to be had

in some of Umbrias more popular localities
part of Umbria has been affected
equally by the slump in foreign
buyers. Prices have dropped quite
signicantly in the northern areas of
Umbria, she says, where there has
been a well-established presence of
ex-pats for a long time now. In the
south, prices have kept more stable,
only dropping when owners need to
repay a mortgage, for instance. So
like everywhere else, it pays to look
around to nd the best savings.
TOWN AND COUNTRY
On the subject of location, lets take a
look at what tend to be the pricier and
Upper Tiber Valley in the far north.

Both contain extremely beautiful
landscapes of green and gold hills
ceding to fertile valleys, and both
have particularly enticing little towns
scattered around. The Vale of Spoleto
area gives access to many of Umbrias
most exquisite ancient hill towns
places like Assisi, Montefalco and
Spoleto, as well as lower-elevation
gems such as little Bevagna. The
Upper Tiber Valley, meanwhile, is
well-situated for Perugia, Citt di
Castello, and delights such as Arezzo
and Sansepolcro across the border
with Tuscany.
CASA AMATA
Type of property Village House
Price 180,000
Location SantArcangelo, Magione, Perugia
Contact www.ilcastelloditara.com info@ilcastelloditara.com
Floral delights in Spello, a hill town

where bargains can be found
Perhaps, like many buyers, you

want a property actually inside one
of Umbrias perfect medieval hill
towns rather than in the surrounding
countryside. Homes in these gemlike places are not as expensive as you
might expect. Well-known hill towns
such as Orvieto, Assisi, Todi, Spoleto
and Perugia offer a superb quality of
life, with a warm local community
and a lively calendar of public events.
But there is also a second league of
During the summer months, you

could expect to get at least 1,000
per week for rental of a country
house with a pool and considerably
more if its a very large property.
The rural rentals season runs from
May to October, with spring and
autumn weeks more difcult to
ll. Umbrias prized hill towns,
meanwhile, have the advantage of a
longer rentals calendar, with more
visitors throughout the non-summer
This property was selected and lmed to appear in the new

BBC series Escape to the Continent perhaps you saw it on the
Umbria edition in April as the surprise property. It is certainly a
surprising property, as it has lots of potential with its total area
of 230m, part of which is to be restored. It is situated in a little
characteristic hamlet right near the lake and two steps away
from the town of SantArcangelo, where all services are available.
Divided into three oors it is made up as follows: cellars and store
rooms on the ground oor; living room, kitchen, bathroom and
two bedrooms on the rst oor; two bedrooms and bathroom on
the second oor. Private garden and well.
For the very lowest prices, you should look to

the regions eastern and southern edges
fabulous hill towns which havent
yet become quite as well-known
and where prices are slightly lower
places such as Montefalco, Spello,
Trevi, Montone and so on. The only
way to choose among them is to visit
Umbria and explore as many of its
wonderful hill towns as you can.
HOLIDAY RENTALS
Most of Umbrias ancient hill towns
offer excellent rental prospects. Assisi
is one of the worlds great religious
pilgrimage sites, with Christians
coming here at all times of the year
and needing somewhere to stay.
Umbrias capital Perugia also offers
especially rich rental pickings, both in
the short and medium term. Tourists,
students and visiting businesspeople
are all potential rental clients here.
Buyers in the countryside should
note that Umbria is one of Italys
best regions for rural holiday rentals.
months. A two-bedroom apartment

in an Umbrian hill town might get
you 300-500 per week more if
its large or luxurious.
Umbria shows no sign of losing
popularity. Throughout the recession,
numbers of foreign buyers might have
been down, but visitor numbers never
were. The charms of Umbria peace,
space, beauty, history, quality of life
are unlikely to become less desirable.
And Umbria wisely safeguards those
charms, restricting building and so
on. This is an utterly enchanting
and unspoilt corner of the world that
looks set to remain so. Q!
USEFUL CONTACTS
CASALE DEL CARDINALE

Type of property Luxury Countryside House (rental)
Price from 3,100 per week / from 3,500 per month
Location Acquasparta, Terni
Contact Welcome Service
info@welcomeservice.it
Mrs Paola +39 339 653 1677
A 13th century renovated castle surrounded by 11 hectares and
a one hectare fenced garden, provided with pergolas and porch,
innity pool, spa, gym, soccer eld, BBQ, wi, cellar and parking.
www.homesitalia.co.uk
www.ilcastelloditara.com
www.itili.com
www.umbrianproperty.com
ZZZ RPHV W
Umbria, my birthplace! I am a licensed real

estate agent that acts as a mediator and does not
surcharge the owners rental prices. No fee for you
on holiday rentals
It is not only a job, but rather a deep passion!
6)28%07 Villas, Houses, Farmhouses.
Daily, weekly, monthly rentals

'90896%0 %'8-:-8-)7 cooking,
Italian language, car rentals, excursions

7%0)7 Farmhouses, Villas,
D\VFRP
Are you planning your
Italian holiday?
Take a look at our new

website and choose
from our many beautiful
holiday homes.
Get 5% discount by
mentioning Italia! when
you book.
homesitalia@yahoo.co.uk
Apartments, Plots of land

4634)68= 1%2%+)1)28
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Mrs Paola
Il Castello di Tara
For a mans home is his castle
Italy has a green heart: Umbria being its centre with an abundance
of historical medieval hamlets, hills dotted with olive groves and
grape vines divided by stunning lines of ancient Cyprus trees
with elds of bright yellow sunowers. The birth place of the
Renaissance art movement, home to Saint Francis the patron
saint of Italy, stunning walled cities not to mention the
delicious home-made food which is Tipico of the region
and of course excellent wine
Truly the ideal location for your new home.
Fall under the Umbrian spell and buy the house of your dreams!
We will assist you right from your initial property search
through to completion (and after too!).
Visit our website or come and say hello; we are based in the
beautiful hilltop village of Panicale.
www.ilcastelloditara.com
0039 0758378011
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The love of art ows through every Italians blood, and you too can be
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Visit the Cinque Terre, Puglia and Umbria 7 nights from 1499.00 per person plus ights.
Forte Village Ideal for Families

Sitting on long stretch of golden sands surrounded by lush gardens,
Forte Village provides intimacy for those looking for privacy.
Families are well catered for with Forte Villages nine sporting
academies, a Barbie Activity Centre as well as 21 different
restaurants, some run by Michelin starred chefs.
www.tuscansecrets.com
01344 627586 sales@tuscansecrets.com
S P E A K I TA L I A !
GAZZETTA
ITALIA!
Ethical purchasing groups Gruppi di Acquisto Solidale (GAS) are an

Italian-based system of purchasing goods collectively. Tamsin Smith
examines their effects on the ways in which Italians buy food
Pesa meno la
spesa GAS
Il fenomeno dei GAS che sta crescendo in lItalia unisce
due delle passioni pi intense della nazione: il cibo e la
compagnia, con i bonus extra di risparmiare soldi, salvare
il pianeta e migliorare la salute e il benessere. Come non
provare ammirazione e perch non lo stiamo facendo tutti?
GAS i Gruppi di Acquisto Solidale sono nati a
Reggio Emilia nel 1994 e ormai si sono sparpagliati per
tutto il paese, con un totale di circa 100,000 membri
e 900 gruppi dalla Valle dAosta no a Sicilia. Tutto
iniziato come reazione alla situazione non etica e insana
delleconomia globale e del consumismo, poi la felice
unione di consumatori e produttori proseguita portando
solidariet nella produzione e nellacquisto del cibo.
Lidea che familiari, amici e vicini di casa si mettono
insieme per creare un gruppo e cercare contadini locali che
producano cibo genuino e bio in un modo etico. Insieme il
gruppo pu comprare in grosse quantit, permettendosi di
acquistare a prezzi pi economici e di mangiare meglio, via
via facendo nuove amicizie. Nel frattempo il contadino
stimolato a continuare a coltivare verdure e allevare animali
in un modo bio e etico, sapendo di poter contare su clienti
regolari che lo apprezzano e che torneranno per rifornirsi la
settimana successiva.
GAS necessita che il cibo provenga da piccoli
produttori locali e bio che rispettano lambiente, gli animali
e i lavoratori. La fede e la solidariet fra gruppo, contadini
e ambiente sono i valori etici principali sui quali il sistema
si basa: un concetto ammirevole se si pensa al livello
di popolarit raggiunta dal sistema e la partecipazione
enorme di persone che ne usufruiscono quotidianamente.
Come spiega lorganizzazione, La merce cessa di essere
solo prodotto e diventa anche strumento di relazione tra
soggetti.
Anche prima di sedersi a tavola tutto il processo di
fare la spesa diventa un momento sociale, da godere con
gli amici, e pure il cibo dona pi soddisfazione e felicit
quando si e stati presenti alla sua nascita, crescita e
preparazione. Invece di dover subire i corridoi e casse di
un supermercato ostile si va in campagna per recuperare il
pane, verdura, carne e formaggio da una fattoria locale; si
nisce sempre per chiacchierare con il contadino davanti ad
un bicchiere di vino poi si torna a casa con un bel cestino di
roba fresca, economica e buona, da godere senza dubbio
in compagnia.
Sustainable shopping
The GAS phenomenon spreading throughout Italy essentially
combines two of the nations favourite pastimes: food and
socialising, with the additional bonuses of saving money,
rescuing the planet and improving health and wellbeing.
Whats not to love and why arent we all doing it?
GAS Gruppi di Acquisto Solidale began in Reggio
Emilia in 1994 and has rapidly spread across the country, with
an estimated total of 100,000 members in 900 groups from
Valle dAosta to Sicily. It began as a reaction to the unethical,
unhealthy trends in global economy and consumerism, and
by bringing together consumers and producers it advocates
solidarity in food production and acquisition.
The idea is that like-minded family, friends and
neighbours club together to seek out local farmers and growers
who produce healthy, organic, ethical food. Together the group
can buy in bulk and place regular orders, thereby negotiating
better prices, enjoying better food and making new friends
along the way. Meanwhile the producer is encouraged to
continue his ethical ways, growing organic vegetables and
keeping his hens ethically, knowing he has regular clients who
appreciate him and will be back for more next week.
GAS-approved food must be sourced from small,
local, organic producers who respect the environment,
their workforce and livestock. Trust and solidarity between
neighbours, farmers and the environment are the core ethics
on which the system is based: an admirable concept when one
considers the extent to which this phenomenon has taken off
and how many people adhere to and benet from it on a daily
basis. As the organisation explains, food stops being a product
and becomes a tool for building relationships.
Even before you reach the table the whole process of
shopping becomes a sociable activity to be enjoyed with
friends, with increased joy and satisfaction gained also from
being able to watch your produce being planted, baked or
reared. Far from the dreaded supermarket aisles and cash tills
you have the pleasure of collecting your weekly orders of bread,
veg, meat and dairy from a nearby farm, inevitably having a
chat and sharing a glass of wine with the farmer before heading
home with fresh, hearty, affordable fayre, to be enjoyed no
doubt with friends.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR

TAMSIN SMITH read Italian at Oxford and lived in
Tuscany from 2002 to 2005. For 11 years she has
worked organising music tours in Italy and visits
frequently, both for work and pleasure. She also
works as a translator and copy editor.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise from
top left: Most
people arrive
during Carnival
season or in the
summer; your
preconceptions
about what
Venice is will be
realised; but the
Grand Canal is
not always so
busy; sunset over
Venice; gondolas
sans tourists;
back street;
lantern
48 HOURS IN
Venice
Follow regular contributor Marina Spironetti as she heads off
to the Lagoon and discovers the authentic pleasures of Italys
most fairy-tale city
Photography Marina Spironetti
e all seem to have some idea of Venice in our mind even

before visiting. Once you arrive, you are able to nd what
you thought would be there the streets are indeed full
of water and the gondolas oat elegantly along the canals.
She is little changed from the times when Goethe called
her the market-place of the Morning and the Evening lands and, should
Marco Polo come back from his journeys today, he would be surprised only by
the motor boats and a few other signs of modernity.
Still, it can sometimes seem as if the place exists only for tourists, offering
very little of that authenticity that can be sampled in other Italian cities.
When one is pushed bemused into gondolas and launched directly into the
Grand Canal together with thousands of other visitors, one almost feels like
the unaware gurant of an enormous theatre performance. Still, the real city is
there, beneath the surface, and its well worth seeking out.
A QUESTION OF PERSPECTIVES
First of all, make sure you choose wisely when to go. Most people show up
either during Carnival or in the summer, but Venice is one of those places that
is best to be discovered in winter. It has fewer tourists and that melancholic
atmosphere that has enchanted poets and artists. It is a seasonal city, and in the
coldest months she lays bare, without her make-up on.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
BEST COFFEE IN TOWN 1

Torrefazione Marchi,
Rio Tera San Leonardo 1337
+39 041 716371
www.torrefazionemarchi.it
One of two coffee roasters left in town
(and the only one that still sells directly
to the public). Real coffee lovers should
try the caff della sposa, made with eight
Arabica blends, or the Veneziano (made
with coffee, cocoa and milk foam). Also at
Caf della Sposa, Fondamenta Ormesini.
PRECIOUS VENETIAN FABRICS 2

Antica Tessitura Bevilacqua
Santa Croce 1320
+39 041 721566
www.luigi-bevilacqua.com
In the times when the city called herself
the Most Serene Republic and ruled over a
quarter and a half of the ancient Roman
Empire, this was also the place where the
Orient began a land of silk, brocades,
exotic spices and scents. To catch a glimpse
of those long-gone times, marvel at the
workshop of the Antica Tessitura Luigi
Bevilacqua, where gorgeous brocades,
velvets and damasks are still handmade on
original 17th century looms. The tools and
the techniques have been handed down
from one generation to the other for 300
years and the quality is still the same as
was required by the Doges. So close is the
similarity to the past that it is very difcult
to tell a modern product from one made
centuries ago.
SHOP FOR UNIQUE SOUVENIRS 3

Franco Furlanetto Remi e Forcole
San Polo 2768/B
+39 041 520 9544
www.ffurlanetto.com
Oars and oar-rests for the traditional
Venetian boats, as well as scale models to
bring back home. Take a walk to San Polo
to see how Signor Franco Furlanetto creates
these very special objects. He is one of few
remer left skilled craftsmen specialised
in oars and oar-rests a profession unique
to Venice.
ALL THE WORLDS A STAGE 4

Tragicomica
San Polo 2800
+39 041 721102
www.tragicomica.it
Venice is the city of Carnival. Regardless
of what time of the year you come to visit,
you can still bring a piece of this magic
event back home. Tragicomica is one of the
citys bigger mask and costume merchants.
Faces stare at you from all directions as
you enter the shop and the feeling is
almost overwhelming. All the masks are
painted by an artist trained at the local
Accademia di Belle Arti.
32 ITALIA! June 2014
The view across the lagoon
DONT MISS
CAFF FLORIAN
The legendary
Caff Florian, in
Piazza San Marco,
is Venices most
famous, and
oldest, caf. First
opening its doors
in 1720 and
once the haunt
of Lord Byron,
it never fails to
attract a crowd.
Do go inside to
see the opulent
interior.
The most evocative way to get

into the city is by train: when the
uninspiring atland of the Pianura
Padana suddenly gives way to water,
you know you are in for something
absolutely unique. Water on both
sides; water everywhere. You are
crossing the bridge that links Venice
to the mainland 3,000 yards long
and supported upon 222 arches. Once
you arrive at Santa Lucia station, you
must proceed by water or by foot.
If you are a rst-time visitor,
youll probably head to San Marco
rst. Napoleon called it Europes
nest drawing room, and rightly so.
The Basilica di San Marco and the
Palazzo Ducale are at the eastern end
Up there, far away from the hordes

of photographers and all the souvenir
sellers, you will be able to see just
how compact the shape of Venice is.
To the north of you is the majestic
backdrop of the Alps, right beyond
the Treviso plain; down to the south
is the Adriatic Sea; all around you is
the Venetian lagoon, sprinkled with
little islands.
By an interesting paradox of
perspectives, you wont be able to spot
a single canal from the campanile
only a horizon of red-tiled rooftops,
chimneys, towers, TV aerials, roof
gardens It is not a large city. You
can see it all easily, from one end
to the other. From up there, all the
By an interesting paradox of perspectives, you

wont spot a single canal from the campanile
of the square, while the campanile,
the citys tallest building, stands in
the centre of the piazza.
Make sure you go all the way
to the top of the bell tower its
probably the nicest way to understand
the modern topography of the city.
overwhelming grandeur is gone.

What is left is rather a sense of
medieval intimacy.
AWAKEN THE SENSES
As touristy as it might be, a trip to
the Canal Grande, Venices central
WHERE TO STAY
Always take time to look up
Discover some secrets
CIPRIANI 5
Giudecca 10
Fondamenta San Giovanni
+39 041 520 7744
info.cip@belmond.com
www.hotelcipriani.com
On the tip of the Giudecca island, the
Cipriani is the address to go to do Venice
in style: a harbour for your yacht, a private
boat, a swimming pool and a personal
trainer at your disposal are just a few of
the facilities available. Needless to say,
this is where you have a higher-thanaverage chance of rubbing shoulders with a
lm star, especially during the lm festival.
PALAZZO ABADESSA 6
Calle Priuli
Cannareggio 4011
+39 041 241 3784
info@abadessa.com
www.abadessa.com
Another luxurious address in a historical
palazzo in one of the most charming
districts of Venice. 12 impressive rooms,
some of which are extremely spacious.
Perfect for a romantic getaway.
A sh market
artery, is something you cannot

omit. Most of the gorgeous palazzi
facing the canal were built between
the 12th and the 18th centuries.
You can either do it on a gondola (as
long as you realize its going to be
budget-breaking), or on a vaporetto,
sottoportico (an alley that passes under a

building), you stretch your arms and
you can touch both sides of a calle (a
Venetian street). Robert Browning
was delighted to nd one so narrow
that he could not open his umbrella.
The tiniest is supposed to be the Calle
Few other cities in the world can offer you

the same tactile experience as Venice
a rounded 230-passenger boat, which
in a place like Venice is the equivalent
of a public bus.
From the moment you board,
you realize how the senses seem to
be much more alert in this city the
sense of touch, in particular. Few
other cities in the world can offer
you the same tactile experience.
You instinctively hold onto those
mushroom-shaped metal things
on the boats side to balance when
the boat abruptly draws alongside
the quay. You lean on its bridges,
you stroke them. The marble of the
bridge of Rialto has been polished
by centuries of hands. You have to
bend in order to walk through a
Stretta, behind Campo San Polo,

which, as its name (Narrow Street)
implies, is only 65cm wide.
And then, again: you grab the
gondoliers arm, you clutch the bricole,
the wooden poles the gondolas are
moored to. Your ngers stroke the
beautifully sculpted forcole, the oarrests, similar to works of art. They
have to be sharpened according to the
gondoliers height and weight and
also by taking into account the way
he rows. Being in Venice is a constant
tactile experience.
SCENT OF A CITY
Like the tide six hours up and six
hours down is how a Venetian
DONT MISS
GILBERTO PENZO
This is your
chance to
pick up that
miniature
gondola youve
always wanted.
Gilberto Penzo
is a maker and
restorer of
wooden model
boats. Youll
nd him hard
at work at Calle
Seconda dei
Saoneri. www.
veniceboats.com
BOSCOLO BELLINI 7
Lista di Spagna 116
+39 041 524 2488
customer.service@hotelinvenice.com
www.boscolobellini.hotelinvenice.com
Just a stones throw from the Santa Lucia
train station, this elegant hotel is ideally
located for your Venetian stay and it
wont break the bank. Recently renovated,
it offers classical Venetian-style rooms
with a very welcome modern twist. The
extremely friendly and helpful staff is the
icing on the cake.
HOTEL MORESCO 8
Sestriere Dorsoduro
+39 041 244 0202
info@hotelmorescovenice.com
www.hotelmorescovenice.com
Just a short walk from the train station,
it offers a quiet but central location.
Rooms are well equipped and beautifully
decorated. Excellent breakfast.
LA VILLEGGIATURA 9
Calle dei Botteri
San Polo 1569
+39 041 524 4673
info@lavilleggiatura.it
www.lavilleggiatura.it
A private house turned into an elegant
maison de charme. Six rooms individually
furnished with precious textiles and
vintage furniture. The rooms on the third
oor are pleasantly spacious a bonus in
a city where extra space is a luxury. The
two attic-rooms are cosier and perfect for a
romantic getaway.
June 2014 ITALIA! 33
WHERE TO EAT
AL VECIO FRITOLIN 10
Calle della Regina, Santa Croce 2262
+39 041 522 2881
www.veciofritolin.it
It used to be an ancient fritolini, a sort of
Venetian-style sh and chips place where
people could buy a portion of fried sh.
Even nowadays the spotlight is on sh
which comes fresh every day from the
Rialto market.
Price range O
CASA BONITA 11
Cannareggio 492
+39 041 524 6164
This family-run, no-frills place is lled with
Venetians on any given day of the week.
The perfect address to sample some of the
best specialities of the Lagoon. Another
excellent place for sh lovers.
Price range O
OSTERIA BANCOGIRO 12
Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122
+39 041 523 2061
www.osteriabancogiro.it
Perfect to drink an ombra at very fair
prices. You can stay longer for dinner;
the menu changes regularly, according to
the season and the freshest ingredients
available try bigoli local fat spaghetti
with calamari, cardoons and dry tuna eggs
or the very traditional fegato alla veneziana
Venetian-style liver with onions.
Price range O
TAVERNA DEL CAMPIELLO REMER 13

Campiello del Remer, Cannareggio 5701
+39 041 522 8789
www.alremer.com
This one is little complicated to nd
you have to locate the Church of San
Grisostomo rst, then take the little alley
almost opposite it, which will lead you to
the hidden square right where the Canal
Grande bends. The atmosphere is pleasantly
old-style with vintage chandeliers, musical
instruments hung on the brick walls and
old copper pots hanging down from the
wooden beams. Between 5.30 and 7.30pm
if you buy a glass of wine you can help
yourself to the free buffet as well (anything
from bruschetta to big bowls of pasta and
risotto). After happy hour, an excellent a la
carte restaurant with live music.
O
Price range O
PIZZERIA AI BARI 14
Santa Croce 1175
+39 041 718900
A place that will not leave you
disappointed. Perfect to have a tasty,
inexpensive pizza or to sample some of the
Venetian specialities. Very friendly service.
Price range O
Always agree a price before embarking
DONT MISS
SKYLINE BAR
If you are
looking to
splurge on an
aperitivo in the
city that made
elegance an art
form, head over
to the Skyline
Bar in the
Hilton Molino
Stucky Venice,
at Giudecca
810. The feel
is casual, the
dcor stylish,
and the view
from the ninth
oor terrace,
overlooking the
Grand Canal all
the way to Piazza
San Marco, is far
from ordinary.
saying describes the allegedly

volatile personality of its people. The
uctuations of the tide dramatically
change the aspect of the city from
the acqua alta (high water) when a
couple of inches of water laps into
the lowest parts of the city for a
few hours, to the pitiless low tide,
revealing all the green, slimy secrets
of the canals. For the 1997 Venice
Biennale American artist Mark Dion
looked into the canals of the city and
catalogued his nds, nding anything
from light bulbs and used appliances
to historically signicant fragments of
stoneware with Islamic designs.
Low tide is occasionally associated
with that infamous smell. It might
worry the queasy tourist, but it
gives the Venetian amateur a sort of
reluctant pleasure. Locals have never
been particularly bothered. Back in
the days of the Republic, they used to
burn incense sticks to take away the
whiff, but up until the early 1900s
even the well-to-do families were
reported to regularly bathe in the
Canal Grande.
VENETIAN-STYLE TAPAS
After getting lost in the ligree of the
The gateway to the Orient
citys small canals, look out for one

of those yellow signs pointing you to
Rialto and head to the food market
there ideally from Campo San
Giacometo to Campiello de le Becarie.
The mercato has been a permanent
feature since the 11th century. Head
there early in the morning, observe
the hustle and bustle of vendors and
locals, stare at the shermen running
around in their Wellington boots.
Start with the vegetables, fruit and
herbs stalls, and end with the buzzing
sh section.
When it comes to food, Venice
stands out from the rest of the
country with a cuisine that is
essentially unique. Together with
polenta and rice, sh is one of the
basic ingredients of the Venetian
diet - particularly baccal (stocksh)
and sarde (sardines). Other local
delicacies include oca in onto (goose in
its own fat), raw seafood and polpette
(meatballs).
The different avours of the
city can be sampled in a bacaro,
Venices answer to a tapas bar. Very
few are left most of those that
remain are in the Rialto area. They
offer an array of cicchetti, small bites,
1
11
7
10
9
13
12
3 4
14
usually displayed on the counter in

a tempting way. They can consist
of just about anything: boiled eggs,
anchovy rolls, crab claws, grilled
vegetables, sundried tomatoes, squares
of fried polenta and the unmissable
sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines
in marinated onions, garnished with
pine nuts and raisins). Wine usually
comes by the glass Venetians call
it unombra a shadow. Drinking
places come in all shapes and sizes,
from holes in the wall with standing
room only to the new and trendier
lounge bars. The wine-growing area
that stretches from Veneto to Friuli
is after Piedmont and Tuscany
one of Italys strongest, with good
whites like Tocai and Soave backed
up by solid reds such as Valpolicella.
Even in the humbler establishments,
the house wine is often surprisingly
rened and the Venetians have
the reputation of being among the
heaviest drinkers of the country!
Once your stomach is full, treat
yourself to a night-time walk, for
thats the best time of the day to
discover Venice. The day-trippers
have all left and you will have the city
to yourself. Q!
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
Marco Polo airport is 13km from the
city. EasyJet ies there from Gatwick,
Luton, Southend and Manchester. From
there you can either take a motoscafo
(expensive: calculate some 100) or
a shuttle bus to Piazzale Roma, which
takes about 30 minutes. Alternatively,
y to Treviso with Ryanair (www.ryanair.
com), which is 30km away. There is a
regular bus service linking the airport
to Venice. Buses from Marco Polo and
from Treviso are operated by ATVO
downloadable timetables at www.atvo.it
GETTING AROUND
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Public transport in the city means by
water, by the canal-cutting vaporetto.
The only canals served by this waterbus
are the Canal Grande, the Rio Nuovo and
the Canale di Cannaregio for everything
else you will have to walk. Gondolas
were once used by everybody now they
operate for tourists (and weddings).
Before getting on board make sure you
agree with the gondolier on where you
want to go and how long you expect it to
take, in order to avoid arguments at the
end of your ride. Ofcial rates start at
80 for a daytime 40-minute tour.
DONT MISS
THE CAMPANILE
No trip to Venice
is complete
without an
elevator ride
to the top of
the San Marco
bell tower
the mighty
campanile. At
just under 100
metres high,
on a clear day
its majestic
position offers
breathtaking
views of the city
and lagoon.
Laundry hanging
between houses
KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES

(full meal per person, not including wine)
Up to 25
O
O
26-50
O
O
O
More than 50
O
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ardinia is known for its

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those looking for privacy.
Families are especially well
catered for at Forte Village, where
there are nine sporting academies:
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golf, CSKA basketball, rugby,
cricket, boxing, tennis, cycling and
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Forte Village is also a source
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body and mind.
Food is a passion here too in

Sardinia, and Forte Village offers 21
restaurants, some run by Michelin
starred chefs such as Gordon Ramsay,
Rocco Iannone, Giancarlo Perbellini
and Antonello Arrus.
The prize is four nights at the
Forte Village for two adults and two
children aged under twelve years
old on the date of return from the
holiday. The prize includes breakfast
and dinner in the hotel every day.
The holiday must be taken no
later than 22 July 2014, or after 24
August 2014 but before the end
of September 2014. The prize can
also be taken from the opening of
the Forte Village in May 2015 but
no later than 19 July 2015. There
are no ights or transfers included.
The prize is offered in partnership
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HOW TO ENTER
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Q What is the capital of Sardinia?

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To enter, answer this question and email your response to
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The closing date is 1 July 2014. Please note that the prize is
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TERMS & CONDITIONS There is no cash alternative and the cost of a single
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please enter OPT OUT into the subject line. The winner will be chosen at random after
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For full Italia! competition rules, see page 6.
IN
THE
Shadow
of Mount Etna
Images Jane Gifford 2014
On a clear day, the snow-clad peaks of Mount Etna dominate the landscape. Jane Gifford sets
out from Taormina to explore some of the lesser known places in the shadow of one of the
worlds largest and most active volcanoes
Etnas snow-clad peaks dominate the landscape. I set out to explore some of the lesser known
places in the shadow of one of the worlds most active volcanoes
mid the designer shops

and swanky hotels of
the afuent Sicilian
resort of Taormina,
palaces with jasminescented gardens are perched high
above the sparkling blue Ionian Sea.
A Greco-Roman amphitheatre dating
back to 4th century BC looks out
over the town along the north-eastern
coast of Sicily.
I head inland, through fragrant
citrus groves, where blood oranges
are the local speciality, mindful of a
taxi-drivers advice on how to drive
in Sicily.
The key to successful driving in
Sicily is sempre diretto. Keep straight
on and dont hesitate. To Sicilians,
stop means go. Above all, relax,
relax, relax!
The Peloritan Mountains rise
steeply to the north and Etnas lofty
slopes are to the south. I climb
Etna through a blaze of wildowers
until the atmospheric little town of
Castiglione di Sicilia appears above
me on a craggy ridge. Like many
other towns in Sic y, Casti ione was
founded by survivors of the sacking
of the Greek island of Naxos.
A maze of narrow medieval
streets leads to Chiesa SantAntonio,
a black and white lava-built church
adorned with white lava angels.
Etna overlooks me from
the end of via Regina
Margherita. I climb
the stairs to 12th century Chiesa San

Pietro and the Basilica Maria Catena,
to be astounded by spectacular Rocca
del Leone, a huge rocky crag with a
massive Norman castle built into it,
topped with the ancient remains of
Castel Leone, a fortress dating way
back to 750BC which gives the town
its name.
I drive higher still through
vineyards and orchards, following
signs to Etna Nord. Eventually
cultivated land gives way to black
volcanic ash and outlandish waves
and peaks of solidied lava. Recent
ows are bare of vegetation.
Birch trees are the rst colonisers.
Their white trunks look fabulous
against the black lava. Etnas snowy
craters loom ever closer. Up here
there is only bird song, the sound of
wind in the trees and distant volcanic
rumblings. New fumaroles open
up regularly, releasing plumes of
sulphurous gas.
At Rifugio Cirelli, I park up and
go walking through this strange
landscape of cinder
cones a ava with
far-reaching
views to
the coast.
Further
Clockwise from
left: Northeast
coast of Sicily
from Taormina;
shing boat in
Santa Maria La
Scala; Novara di
Sicilia Judas
tree blossom;
Riposto; Novara
di Sicilia War
Memorial
Randazzos economy is in the grips of hard times. Many buildings are in need of repair,
though their iron balconies are still adorned with flowers
Clockwise
from top left:
SantAlo, wild
orchids in thanks
for saving village;
SantAlo, cherry
blossom & vines;
Santa Maria La
Scala; Randazzo,
Chiesa Santa
Maria; descent
into Novara di
Sicilia
KEY TO
RESTAURANT PRICES
(full meal per person,
not including wine)
Up to 25
O
O
26-50
O
O
O
50 +
O
round the volcano, at Rifugio

Sapienza, you can take the chairlift
even higher up Etna Sud, but its far
busier. I prefer the silence and the
mystery here.
Its a good idea to come off the
mountain via SantAlo, where many
vineyards and small-holdings offer
agriturismo. At a tiny church in
the middle of nowhere, a moving
bronze statue gives thanks for sparing
SantAlo from destruction in the
eruption of 1928, which consumed
the neighbouring town of Masoali.
Back on the coast, you can take
a short trip south to Santa Maria La
Scala, a tiny shing village with a
beach of black volcanic sand. The
little wooden shing boats have eyes
painted on them to ward off evil.
I eat grilled freshly caught sh on
the narrow quayside at La Grotta,
while watching two men putting out
nets close to the harbour. Both are
standing. The younger man throwing
out the oats; the old boy rowing.
There are many freshwater
springs here which washerwomen
once used to scrape a living. The
name La Scala is derived from
the stairs they would climb to the
town of Acireale above. I return via
Riposto, which is famous for its

marina and sh market, then follow
the Lemon Riviera along the coast.
This is a very long beach of pale
grey volcanic sand popular with
line-shermen. It is hedged in with
mimosa and has excellent views along
the shore to Taormina.
Around the opposite side of
Etna, medieval Randazzo, enclosed
by 14th century city walls, has also
miraculously survived destruction
by Etna, only to be badly damaged
during WWII. Nearly three quarters
of the buildings were destroyed or
damaged in the war.
Once a prosperous place full of
baroque and medieval palaces, it
is clear that Randazzos economy
is in the grips of hard times. Many
buildings are in bad need of repair,
although many wrought iron
balconies are still lovingly adorned
with owers.
The dark black interior of the
current cathedral, 13th century Santa
Maria, with its vast lava-stone pillars,
is sombre in the extreme. When
interspersed with white and the
occasional red, as in nearby Chiesa di
San Martino, lava makes an attractive
building material. Inside Santa
Maria, however, the impression is
overwhelmingly gloomy.
WHERE TO EAT
CASTIGLIONE DI SICILIA
Piazza Antonio
La Dispensa dell Etna O

+39 094 284258
Mob +39 339 806 7303
www.ladispensadelletna.eu
Great home-cooked traditional food and
local wines by the little lava-stone church
on Piazza Antonio.
SANTA MARIA LA SCALA
La Grotta, below Acireale O

Very basic but totally authentic just turn
up for the freshest of sh and seafood
traditionally caught in the bay only hours
before you eat it.
NEAR RANDAZZO
Etna Quota Mille Restaurant
Etna Quota Mille, Contrada da Marzarola
O
www.etnaquotamille.it
info@etnaquotamille.it
+39 095 518 7293
Mob +39 328 428 3799
Agriturismo with a great local reputation
for food. Views of Etna and Randazzo.
Accommodation in a traditional farmhouse.
Plus swimming pool.
WHERE TO STAY
CASTIGLIONE DI SICILIA
Hotel Federico II
Via Maggiore. Baracca 2
Castiglione di Sicilia
www.hotelfedericosecondo.com
info@hotelfedericosecondo.com
+ 39 094 298 0368
Nine well-equipped rooms in a medieval
building right in the heart of the old town.
SANTALFIO
Agriturismo Case Perrotta
Via Andronica 2, SantAlo
www.caseperrotta.it
casaperotta@casaperotta.it
+39 095 968928
Accommodation and popular food in
traditional farmhouse with views of the
coast and Etna. Sicilian home-cooking.
Cherries and wine produced on the farm.
NEAR RANDAZZO
Hotel Feudo Vagliasindi, Contrada Feudo S.
Anastasia Strada provinciale 89
Randazzo
+39 095 799 1823 / +39 338 835
7266 / +39 392 554 1470
www.feudovagliasindi.it
info@feudovagliasindi.it
Accommodation and food in a grand villa
on an estate producing premier wine and
olives amongst vineyards facing Etna.
As you begin your descent to the town you can see across to the opposite coast and to the
volcanic Aeolian Islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea
Nearby Bronte specialises in
pistachios. Like the local vines, the
small grey pistachio trees are kept
low, their twisted branches hanging
down to the soil around them. Some
90 per cent of the pistachios used in
Italy are grown here, with a festival
during the rst ten days of October.
Situated 2,500 feet up Etnas ank,
Bronte has been devastated by
eruptions three times so far, but each
time it has been rebuilt. It remains
hemmed in by lava ows.
Today it is an unassuming little
town full of exceptionally steep oneway streets. The Duchy of Bronte
was gifted to Admiral Nelson in
1799 by King Ferdinand IV, who
was rescued from Naples on Nelsons
agship ahead of the Napoleonic
invasion. It remained in Nelsons
family until 1981, when it was sold
to Bronte town council. Apparently
Nelson never visited Bronte but
he had a great admirer in Patrick
Bunty, a Yorkshire pastor, formerly
from Ulster, who, in honour of his
heros success, changed his name to
Bront and whose daughters went
on to become the celebrated authors
Charlotte, Emily and Anne.
The volcanic slopes between
Radazzo and Bronte are dotted with
black lava-stone farm houses,
where cattle graze on pasture hedged

with prickly-pear cacti. Yellow
broom and cherry trees add a dash
of welcome colour in spring. There
are stunning views of snow-capped
Etna soaring above it all. Delicious
strawberries grown in the fertile
volcanic soil are a speciality and the
vineyards produce excellent red and
white wines.
My nal mountain drive crosses
the Peloritan Mountains on a switchback ride through glorious scenery
to the little baroque town of Novara
di Sicilia. As you begin your descent
to the town you can see across to the
opposite coast and to the volcanic
Aeolian Islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Novara is another town of ancient
origins that was repopulated by
the Normans. There is a ne 19th
century bronze of David clutching
Goliaths head on Largo Bertolomi
and, to my surprise, a lovely little
opera house from the same era on
via Bellini. Wild cyclamen and the
carmine-pink blossom of Judas trees
brighten the hillsides in spring and
the town is overlooked by Rocca
Novara, a striking bare white rock
that stands sentinel at the end of the
Peloritan range. Q!
Clockwise from
left: Novara di
Sicilia; Castiglione
di Sicilia
Rocca Leone;
Lemon Riviera;
Castiglione di
Sicilia; Lava ows
and Etna
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PA S T I TA L I A !
SANTA MARIA,
TRASTEVERE
This ceiling detail in Romes Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere
perhaps the rst church in which Mass was openly celebrated
would appear painted, such is its intricacy, yet it is not
iStock photo
he Basilica di Santa Maria in Travestere was the rst church in

Rome to be dedicated to the Madonna and has a rich history that
dates back to the 4th century. One of the most notable aspects of
this feat of architecture is the gilded wooden ceiling covered in
glowing golden mosaics that are so intricately detailed you would
think they were paintings rather than perfect assemblages of tiny pieces of gold,
glass and stone. Visitors can witness the Assumption of the Virgin, created in
1616 by Domenichino and a 12th-century mosaic of Jesus and the Virgin Mary.
This ceiling is such a work of art that many visitors have reported making more
than one trip to the basilica just to view it in all its splendour again. Q!
The faade of the
Duomo at Ortygia
Images Gretta Schifano
Syracuse
A city that was once famed and feared throughout the Mediterranean,
Syracuse offers an abundance of archaeological sites to explore.
Gretta Schifano ew down to Comiso to discover them
Gretta at the Greek

amphitheatre
S
The Roman amphitheatre,
Neapolis Archaeological Park
yracuse was one of the most powerful cities

in the ancient world and at one point even
rivalled Athens. Syracuse is in the southeast of
Sicily and was founded on the island of Ortygia
by Corinthian settlers in 734 BC. By the 5th
century BC it had an empire stretching around the
Mediterranean and was a thriving artistic and cultural
centre. The Roman philosopher Cicero said it was the
most beautiful city in the world.
Syracuses most famous citizen is probably the
great Greek scientist and mathematician Archimedes,
who was born here in 287 BC. Archimedes worked
for Hieron II, tyrant ruler of the city from 270-216
BC. One of Archimedes best-known inventions is the
Archimedes screw, which is still used today for pumping
liquids. He also invented war machines which helped to
defend the city when it was besieged by the Romans for
three years.
Despite Archimedes inventions the Greek
domination of Sicily ended in 211 BC when the
Romans defeated Syracuse. The city was then ruled by
a succession of powers over subsequent centuries: the
The main historical sites of Syracuse

are concentrated on the island
of Ortygia and the Neapolis
Archaeological Park
The market at
Ortygia
Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and Spanish have all left

their mark. In 1693 a huge earthquake destroyed around
50 towns in the area and killed half of the population.
This disaster was the catalyst for the regeneration
of many of the affected towns and cities, including
Syracuse. In the years that followed the earthquake many
structures were rebuilt with limestone in the Sicilian
baroque style.
Syracuse today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
and a fascinating place to visit. The city is served by
both Catania airport and the new airport at Comiso,
which offers direct ights to London with Ryanair.
I travelled to Comiso with Ryanair when I went to
Syracuse in April and I was pleased to see that the
budget airline now gives every passenger an allocated
seat. Ryanair now also allows passengers a small handbag
as well as a cabin bag. These new ights and the
popularity of the Inspector Montalbano TV series, which
is lmed in the area, have led to an increased interest in
this part of Sicily.
ORTYGIA
The main historical sites of Syracuse are concentrated on
the island of Ortygia and the Neapolis Archaeological
Park. The original city of Syracuse was founded on the
island of Ortygia and this is the heart of the city today.
Ortygia juts out into the Ionian Sea and is linked to
the mainland by a couple of bridges. The island still
has the ancient Greek street layout and is partly
A hole from a wooden
scaffolding pole
pedestrianised. Its interesting architecture, narrow

streets and elegant squares make it a great place to
explore. The locals go about their everyday business here
against a background of ancient ruins, baroque palaces
and places where legends began.
The Temple of Apollo covers a large, fenced-in area
of Piazza Pancali as you enter Ortygia. Built in 565 BC
its the oldest Doric temple in Western Europe. The
temple has been used as both a mosque and a church,
and its ruins were discovered in 1860 inside an old
Spanish barracks. The barracks and other later structures
have now been removed to reveal the remains of the
original temple. Theres a colourful fresh food market in
the streets around the temple from Monday to Saturday
starting at 7.30am. Its an interesting and friendly place
to wander around and some of the stalls have cookery
demonstrations.
At the centre of Ortygia is Piazza del Duomo, an
expansive, rectangular piazza surrounded by elegant
baroque palazzi, which were rebuilt after the 1693
earthquake. The piazza sits on the site of the ancient
acropolis, the heart of the city, and has been used as
Looking out to
sea from Ortygia
harbour
The citys main water supply in

ancient times came from the
Fonte Aretusa, a freshwater spring
next to the sea
a location for the Inspector Montalbano TV series. My
guide, Lucia Iacono, tells me that the cathedral on this
square is the best place in Sicily to see the story of the
island. When I go into the cathedral I understand what
she means. The building is like an encyclopaedia of
the citys history, from its baroque faade to its Spanish
oor, Renaissance ceiling, Norman font and, encased
in the walls, Doric columns dating from a 5th century
BC temple to Athena and then Minerva. Im amazed to
learn that the cathedral has been in continuous use as a
religious place since 480 BC.
The citys main water supply in ancient times came
from the Fonte Aretusa, a freshwater spring next to the
sea. Theres a legend that the Fonte Aretusa was created
by the Greek goddess Artemis when she changed the
nymph Arethusa into the spring. Today the spring
bubbles up through the surface of a pond where papyrus
plants grow. The pond is enclosed by a wall and is a
popular meeting place on summer evenings.
NEAPOLIS ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK
The Neapolis Archaeological Park was set up in 1955 to
preserve some of the ancient sites of Syracuse including
the Greek and Roman amphitheatres, the Greek stone
quarries and the Altar of Hieron II. The Spanish took
many of the stones from these ancient monuments
to build defensive walls in the 16th century but the
remains are still impressive.
The Greek amphitheatre was at the centre of
The Temple of
Apollo, Ortygia
A supporting pillar
at the quarry
HOW TO GET THE MOST FROM

YOUR VISIT TO SYRACUSE
STAY ON ORTYGIA
If youre staying in Syracuse its best to
book somewhere on or very near Ortygia.
I stayed a couple of minutes walk from
the bridge to Ortygia at the comfortable
Grande Albergo Alfeo, which has free
wi and good breakfasts.
GO THIS YEAR
This year is the centenary of the annual
Greek theatre festival, which takes
place in the ancient amphitheatre every
May and June. The productions are
organised by the Istituto Nazionale del
Dramma Antico who will be staging the
Oresteia by Aeschylus and The Wasps
by Aristophanes this year from May
9th to June 22nd. You can book tickets
through the INDA website at www.
indafondazione.org
HIRE A GUIDE
If you go to the Neapolis Archaeological
Park its a good idea to book an ofcial
guide as the ruins are quite spread out
and explanatory signs are thin on the
ground. The website for the ofcial
Syracuse tour guides association is www.
guidesiracusa.tk. Rates start from around
130 for two hours. Entrance to the park
costs 10 but EU residents who are under
18 or over 65 get in free so take your
passport or some form of ID with you if
you qualify for a free ticket.
BE AN EARLY RISER
It gets very hot in Syracuse in the
summer months so the best time for
sightseeing is rst thing in the morning.
Make sure you take water, sunscreen and
a hat with you, especially when visiting
the archaeological park where most of the
ruins are in full sun.
GO TO CHURCH ON SUNDAY
It costs 2 to visit Syracuse Cathedral but
its free to go in on Sundays. If youd like
to go inside the cathedral, or any church
in Italy, you need to be careful about
what youre wearing. There are often
rules forbidding vest tops or shorts in
churches and its best to have shoulders
and legs covered.
Syracusan life for centuries and is still used today.

Also built in the 5th century BC, the theatre could seat
up to 16,000 people. Today 7,000 seats remain but its
still the third largest ancient Greek theatre in the world.
The theatre was created by carving stone tiers out of
the hillside in a horseshoe shape. The tiers are divided
into ten named sections and some of the original Greek
section names can still be seen, carved into the stone
tiers. In ancient times those sitting in the auditorium
would have been able to see the Temple of Athena in
Ortygia below. Some of the greatest Greek playwrights
staged their works in this theatre: Aeschylus premiered
some of his tragedies here and it was the birthplace of
comic Greek theatre. This year is the centenary of the
annual Greek theatre festival which takes place here
every May and June.
The Roman amphitheatre was built after Syracuse
fell to the Romans. It feels more compact than its Greek
counterpart and it seated around 18,000 people and was
30 metres high. In contrast to the horseshoe layout of
the Greek amphitheatre the seating here encircles the
stage. This is because the Roman performances here
DETAILS FROM THE NEAPOLIS ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

GROTTA DEI CORDARI / ROPE-MAKERS CAVE
Local rope-makers worked in this cave from ancient times until recently. The cave was
good for rope-making because of its humidity. Winston Churchill came to paint here
every morning when he came to Syracuse on holiday in 1955.
VOTIVE NICHES
At the top of the Greek amphitheatre are votive niches carved into the rock. These
would have contained statues, images and offerings to the gods.
GREEK INSCRIPTION
The different sections of the Greek amphitheatre were designated by the names of gods
and well-known people of the time such as Queen Philistis, wife of Hieron II.
SUPPORTING PILLAR
A 40 metre-high stone pillar once supported the quarry roof and now towers over fruit
trees, caves and other, fallen pillars in the Latomie quarry.
HOLE FOR WOODEN SCAFFOLDING POLE
A hole left by a wooden scaffolding pole used by the Greeks in their quarrying of the
Ear of Dionysius cave.
Greek inscription at
the amphitheatre
Legend has it that Syracuses

tyrant ruler Dionysius used the cave
to imprison his enemies and listen in
to what they were saying
were ghts and battles which could be watched from
any angle.
The Greeks quarried extensively here for the white
limestone they used for their monuments. Incredibly,
they quarried around ve million cubic metres of
limestone around Syracuse using only hand tools
and wooden scaffolding. The remains of the ancient
limestone quarry (Latomie) today are bursting with
olive and fruit trees. The caves created by quarrying
were used by the Greeks as prisons. One of the caves
is known as the Ear of Dionysius (lorecchio di Dionisos).
This 23m-high cave takes the form of a giant S shape
and any sounds made within it are amplied around
the gardens outside. Legend has it that Syracuses tyrant
ruler Dionysius used the cave to imprison his enemies
and listen in to what they were saying. You can actually
go inside this cave and I found it incredible to see the
marks of the tools on the cave walls and to think of this
huge space being chipped out by hand.
The vast Altar of Hieron II was built in the 3rd
century BC and was used for public sacrices to Zeus.
At 198 metres long its the biggest Greek sacricial altar
known today, although only the base remains. The altar
was used once a year at a festival to sacrice hundreds of
oxen. The animals were killed one at a time, the meat
cooked on a sacricial re and then eaten. Our guide
Lucia says it was a kind of sacred barbecue. Q!
Gretta travelled with Ryanair from Stansted to Comiso.
The ropemakers cave
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I TA L I A ! P R O M O T I O N
Creative
holidays
With an artistic heritage second to none in the western

world, a painting holiday in Italy with specialists
Tuscan Secrets is not to be missed
TUSCAN SECRETS
The y and op holidays
become less appealing, instead
we are now looking for more
mental stimulus.
Italy offers a wide range of
special interest holidays from
language lessons, to cookery,
hiking to music, photography
and painting.
With its picturesque
landscape and unique history,
Italy provides an ideal location
for painting holidays. Italy has
held a long tradition with art,
course provided as well as some

local excursions.
Our tutors will call and
speak with every customer
before they travel and in fact
they can be called for advice
during your enquiry stages.
CONTACT DETAILS
TUSCAN SECRETS
www.tuscansecrets.com
sales@tuscansecrets.com
01344 627586
Art, and the love of art, flows through

every Italians blood
the home of the Renaissance
and of course the birthplace of
Giotto, Michelangelo, Raphael
and Caravaggio, to say nothing
of Leonardo. In fact, art and the
love of art ows through every
Italians blood it has to be
contagious.
Tuscan Secrets customers
can visit the Cinque Terre,
Puglia and Umbria. We build
small groups of 8 to 14 people.
Using family owned, local
hotels where food and wine are
a cornerstone of hospitality.
Non-painting partners can also
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single travellers, there is often
no supplement.
Chairs and boards are of
Main image: Gardens

of Villa Bichi Borghesi
Above left to right:
Sebastian makes
pasta; octagonal
Oratoria della
Madonna delle Nevi;
into the hills of the
Montagnola; picnic
lunch in courtyard of
Villa Bichi Borghesi;
happy hikers relaxing
over lunch
A Hedonistic
All photos Sebastian Cresswell-Turner unless otherwise stated
HIKING TOUR IN
Tuscany
Good food and wine, and just enough exercise to counter the effects
What better way to enjoy Tuscany? Sebastian Cresswell-Turner joins
Hedonistic Hiking for a taste of their upmarket walking tours
Setting off from Nevi
uestion: what do you

do if you wish to
take a holiday during
which you will be
spoilt rotten
by a series of
delicious meals, but from which
you nevertheless wish to return
home leaner, stronger, healthier and
happier than before?
Answer: you go on a gastronomic
walking tour in Italy.
It was to cater for just such
demands that Jackie and Mick
Parsons set up Hedonistic Hiking
seven years ago. As I discovered,
their guided tours involve so much
enjoyable exercise in the fresh air
that you can eat and drink what you
like without feeling guilty; and,
furthermore, you sleep like a log
afterwards. It is a magic formula,
and although my own experience
with them was a tailor-made affair
with a small group that lasted just a
few days rather than the usual week
or so, I wished it could have gone on

for ever.
Only minutes after landing in
the highly civilised small airport
at Pisa, we were welcomed by
Jackie, the co-founder of Hedonistic
Hiking, and her colleague Annabel,
and our luggage was loaded into
their minibus, from the back of
which a bowl of ripe strawberries
and various other delicacies were
produced; and after a two-hour drive
south-eastwards into the hills of
Chianti, we arrived at the Palazzo
Leopoldo, a grand medieval hotel in
the small Tuscan centre of Radda.
My own room had a view over the
old town walls to the countryside
beyond, all glowing green after
recent rainfalls.
Shortly afterwards we assembled
in the lobby for an early-evening
welcome drink of prosecco. As
Jackie now explained, half the point
of these holidays is that you have
no decisions to make. Everything is
Time for a pit stop?
arranged for you; the walks are all

accompanied; picnics are waiting
at specially selected panoramic
spots; the menus for the meals in
restaurants are chosen in advance
oh, and wine is included in the
price.
All of which was promptly
demonstrated at dinner that rst
evening, in an excellent local
restaurant called La Botte di
Bacco (meaning the Winecask
of Bacchus). As each of the four
courses appeared, Annabel talked us
through them and the wine-waiter
was on hand to discuss the two highquality Tuscan wines he produced.
After the end of the meal, it was a
happy group that made the short
walk back to our hotel.
Breakfast the next morning was
the only time we had to decide what
to eat, and already I found myself
dithering over the huge spread laid
out in the hotels dining room. But
these holidays involve sticking to
Main image: A
downhill walk
towards lunch
Above left to right:
Church at Badia a
Isola; owers at
Villa Bichi Borghesi;
friendly resident;
rural delights
abound; enjoying the
at; lunch at Ristoro
di Lmole; Tuscany
in bloom; use your
boots!
I had failed to bring the small rucksack which

Hedonistic Hiking rightly advise is essential
a timetable, and by nine oclock
we were in the minibus, driving
down into the Elsa valley, where
the days walking started with
a visit to the early Romanesque
church at Badia a Isola. From here,
leaving the turreted medieval walls
of Monteriggioni outlined behind
us, we walked up into the wooded
hills of the Montagnola region to
the west of Siena, following an old
strada bianca (white road).
Having packed in a hurry before
leaving London, I had failed to bring
the small rucksack which Hedonistic
Hiking rightly advise is essential.
After only a few minutes walking
uphill in the sun, I had taken off
my waterproof top and was annoyed
at having nowhere to put it. I was
also thirsty, but my fault again
having had nowhere to put the
waterask that had been offered to
me back in the hotel, I had turned
it down. I also wished that I was
wearing shorts, as the other walkers
were. So I learnt the hard way that it

is essential to have the right kit.
As the road continued up into
hills thickly wooded with holm
oaks, conversation tended to ag,
and we appreciated the wisdom of
taking things slowly and gently;
because even if you are t, uphill
walking is tiring; and most of the
people in these groups tend to
be aged forty-plus. Every once in
a while our guide Jackie, who is
herself as t as a ddle, tactfully
paused to let us reassemble.
Soon, however, we reached
the top of Monte Maggio, below
which the Tuscan landscape spread
out majestically. Then the descent
towards lunch; back into the woods,
past farmhouses surrounded by
poppies and irises, and past shaded
glades thickly carpeted in latespring owers; until, hungry and
thirsty, we arrived at the imposing
Villa Bichi Borghesi, where Annabel
had laid out a picnic on a table
We had left London barely 24 hours before,

but already friendships had formed
in a courtyard of one of the
All photos this page Palazzo Leopoldo Hotel
stable blocks.
We had left London barely 24
hours before, but already friendships
had formed. This, indeed, is one of
the best aspects of walking holidays,
namely that the shared adventure
brings you together. And now we
had earned our lunch. Two types of
pecorino; Tuscan ham; wild boar
sausages; artichoke hearts in olive
oil; asparagus; unsalted Tuscan
bread; all washed down by wine,
both red and white.
Lunch over, there was time to
relax or dream while Jackie read an
excerpt from A Day in Tuscany, an
account of life in wartime Italy, after
which Valentina Bichi Borghesi,
the wife of the owner of the villa,
showed us round its formal gardens
before she and her husband gave us a
tasting session of their own estatebottled wines. It was then off to look
round La Suvera, a nearby castle,
part-medieval and part-Renaissance,
which is one of the two hotels

where Jackies guests stay on the
longer version of the Tuscan tour,
and where the outrageously grand
rooms are stuffed with innumerable
precious artifacts.
These tours being as much about
food and culture as walking, it was
now time for a cookery lesson; and
so back into the minibus and off to
the Borgo San Chimento, just round
the corner from La Suvera. Here,
in the old kitchens of the Villa San
Chimento, untouched for a hundred
years, a charming Italian cook called
Orietta taught us how to make
ravioli and tagliatelle, and it did not
matter that she spoke hardly a word
of English. Suddenly an element of
competition set in, and witty quips
aside, we were all very keen to prove
our worth.
Later, while Orietta turned our
creations into a proper meal, and
while swallows itted about above
the villa, we consumed prosecco and
The Palazzo
Leopoldo Hotel
bruschetta al pomodoro outside, before

returning to the kitchen for a feast
that would not have been out of
place on Masterchef.
And later still, after another
minibus ride back to our hotel
in Radda, some of us had an
amaretto or two in the Bottega di
Giovannino, the only place that was
still open in this quiet town after
ten oclock on a Saturday night.
The next morning we were
back in the minibus at nine oclock,
heading north for a serious walk in
the Monti del Chianti, with views
over the Apennines which form the
spine of Italy. Walking uphill on the
rough tracks here, we heard cuckoos
and skylarks, and by the wayside
I found whole clusters of the rare
early purple orchid growing wild.
During a pause in a pine forest on
the Monte San Michele, Jackie read
a story about bawdy nuns from The
Decameron by Boccaccio, a rough
contemporary of Chaucer, and, still
chuckling over it, we carried on

downhill to a last lunch.
Like many of the best
establishments in Italy, the Ristoro
di Lamole looks entirely anonymous
from the outside. But from our table
on the covered veranda, we had one
of the most impressive views from
any restaurant in Italy. As for the
food the bruschetta al pomodoro
was perfect; the burrata was soft,
runny and creamy, just as it should
be; the risotto made with a naturally
black rice called riso di Venere (rice
of Venus) was a revelation.
Then, all too soon, it was back
to Pisa. Here, sitting on solid
marble benches in the garden
outside the entrance to the airport,
and regretting that we had to leave
newly-made friends so soon, we
killed the two-hour wait for our
ight with the help of a couple of
bottles of excellent Chianti, courtesy
of Hedonistic Hiking.
That, surely, is the way to go. Q!
Chapel at La Suvera
prepared for wedding
The turreted walls

of Monteriggioni
MORE INFORMATION
PRICES AND BOOKING
Hedonistic Hiking offers a variety of
tours in Italy from about 2,000 for
7-8 days, all costs included except air
fares. For prices and availability go to
www.hedonistichiking.com.
WHAT TO TAKE
q&NNCV@KJHMFANNSR
q6@SDQOQNNESNONQI@BJDS
q2L@KKQTBJR@BJHMVGHBGSNB@QQXV@SDQ
bottle, waterproof top, etc.
q2GNQSR
q'D@CFD@QRTMFK@RRDRRTMBQD@L
P R O P E RT Y F O C U S
500,000-750,000
FARMHOUSE
LE MARCHE
PROPERTY FOCUS
That perfect Mediterranean combination of mountain
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A substantial four-bedroom, fully-restored farmhouse with panoramic

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Price 675,000 (562,000)
Contact www.magicmarche.com
info@magicmarche.com
+39 331 381 9509
KEVIN GIBNEY
WWW.PROPERTYFORSALEMARCHE.COM
Isnt it time you got

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The recently completed Casa Mercatello apartments are to be found in the historical centre of Mercatello
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A great opportunity to purchase a share in this unique home, adjoining the magnicent
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A 13th century, three-storey restored farmhouse in Mercatello sul

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P R O P E RT Y F O C U S
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Have you ever dreamt of owning a luxury villa, set within beautiful grounds, and complete
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Contact www.appassionata.com
ifh@appassionata.com
+39 331 541 3225
250,000-500,000
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great views, a pool, an olive grove, two pergolas, four bedrooms (two en
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to the mountains. All this at a down-to-earth price of just 499,000. All
sterling transaction welcome.
Price 499,000
Contact Property for Sale Marche
info@propertyforsalemarche.com +39 347 538 6668
Le Marche: The new Tuscany

More affordable
Just as beautiful
Le Marche Property Sales & Restoration Management

With over 40 years of property experience, Magic Marche has built a
reputation for integrity and professionalism.
We sell restored, unrestored and partly restored properties including:
farmhouses, townhouses, apartments, grand palazzos,
B&Bs and rental businesses.
Restored
629.000 (524,000)
Code: 345
Magic Marche
We are at your side from your first viewing, until the keys are in your hand.
www.magicmarche.com
Restored
299.000 (247,000)
Code: 571
Tel: +39 331 381 9509

Email: info@magicmarche.com
Y All Property Types, All Budget Ranges

- Habitable / Partially Restored
- Fully Restored / Finished
- Ruins to Custom Restore

- Apartments / Townhouses
Y Guaranteed Fixed Price Contracts

for Restoration Works
Y Detailed & Accurate Property
Descriptions
Y Superior, Professional Service
www.propertyforsalemarche.com
+ 39.347.5386668
P.IVA 01534470438
Spiaggia Giamaica
Wild Swimming
Where better than Italy to enjoy swimming in the pure clean
water? Michele Tameni highlights the best spots, including
these recommendations for the waters of Lake Garda
The swim at Giamaica has smooth rock slabs, and further round you will find
n the centre of Lombardy are

hills covered with prestigious
vineyards and picturesque
villages, but best of all are the
wonderful chain of sparkling
lakes that run through the valleys and
landscape. The stunning blue Lago
di Garda is the most beautiful among
them. Its open southern shore lies
between gentle morainic hills planted
with vines and olive trees. From the
mid-point onwards the lake narrows
quickly; the hills become mountains
and there are dramatic vistas from the
sometimes precarious lakeshore road.
In spring and summer, the coastal
roads become increasingly congested,
and the beautiful villages on its banks
are crowded with tourists, but there
are still hidden beaches where you

will nd the authentic avours of this
Italian lake.
The picturesque village of
Sirmione, for example, is famous for
its Roman and medieval remains,
with the striking Scaliger castle as a
popular tourist destination, but it also
hides a very special beach just below
the remains of the fascinating Grotte
di Catullo. The swim at Giamaica has
smooth rock slabs, and further round
you will nd the Lido di Bionde with
crystal-clear waters, a pontoon and
magnicent views.
Below the ruins of a fortress, you
will nd the white rocky spurs of
Manerba and the Spiaggia della Rocca
di Manerba: a fantastic beach,
Spiaggia della
Rocca di Manerba
LAKE GARDA SOUTH WEST
SPIAGGIA GIAMAICA/LIDO DELLE BIONDE 1

When the lake level is lower in the summer,
large slabs of sandstone emerge from the
lake, creating a beautiful smooth white
rock beach surrounded by crystal-clear
waters. Behind is the famous Roman villa
Grotte di Catullo. If the lake level allows
you can walk around to Lido delle Bionde:
a beach with a pier, a small bar and a
magnicent lawn shaded by olive trees.
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the Lido di Bionde, with crystal-clear waters

Rocca di Sirmione
SPIAGGIA DELLA ROCCA DI MANERBA 2

Beautiful pebble beach under a white cliff,
above which stands a fortress. The walk is
interesting: you enter a forest and then go
up a charming hillside with stunning views
of the lake. The water is a magnicent
green-blue colour and the forest provides
shelter from the sun. It is also common to
see hawks soaring near the cliffs.
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VALLE DELLE CARTIERE 3

A magnicent series of natural pools
situated in a small canyon with warmcoloured rocks: not easy to access.
Upstream, near the ruins of a paper mill,
other quieter pools are easily accessible.
It is a great place to explore follow the
paths downstream for more pools.
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LAKE GARDA WEST
BOGLIACO 4
A narrow shingle beach with an impressive
hidden entrance. Beautiful hotel terrace.
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LE FONTANELLE, GARGNANO 5
Le Fontanelle is a supervised lido beach
with free access in the middle of an olive
grove with lawns and benches. The beach
is pebbly, but the view from the park is
particularly pleasant.
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LA PIAZZETTA, GARGNANO 5B
A picturesque beach in the historic centre
of the village, overlooking a small square.
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TORRENTE SAN MICHELE 6

Gorges with small pools, waterfalls
and large boulders from which to dive.
Upstream, part of a high waterfall ows
into a funnel of rock. Below, a beautiful
blue pool and a small channel glistens in
the warm sun.
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LE SPIAGGE DI CAMPIONE DEL GARDA 6A

Explore the village too; it is in a stunning
location, on a small strip of land topped by
huge walls of rock. Good beaches hidden
among olive trees.
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PORTO DI TIGNALE 6B
A narrow beach slightly hidden and
therefore usually not too crowded. Walk a
little way along the shore south to nd a
fun tree to dive from.
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Bogliaco
Gargnano
The wind increases and picturesque villages such as

Campione
Spiaggia della Rocca di Manerba
Bogliaco and Gargnano seem squeezed between mountains and water

The beach at Gargnano
surrounded by an evergreen forest

and owering meadows.
The ancient villas on the west
coast, including the eccentric hillside
estate of Il Vittoriale degli Italiani,
lead us to the town of Toscolano in
the Valle delle Cartiere, along old
industrial areas now taken over by
nature. Here, the river glides through
orange coloured rocks creating pools
interspersed with waterfalls.
Continuing north, the lake
narrows, mountains become taller,
the wind increases and picturesque
villages such as Bogliaco and Gargnano
seem squeezed between the mountains
and the water. The old town with its
narrow streets is charming and runs
downhill towards the harbour where
there is an attractive, pebbly lido,

Le Fontanelle.
The western coastal road (S45
bis) provides beautiful views with
mountains overlooking the calm
waters. Visit Campione del Garda,
a small town situated in the Alto
Garda Bresciano Park. Campione is
a favourite spot for wind and kitesurfers, though recent redevelopments
have blurred its charm. However, you
will nd beaches and rock ledges for
jumping and diving. Turning your
back to the beach, head for the river
gorge of San Michele, where deep
pools, waterfalls and narrow channels
form an aquatic playground.
It is worth taking the SP38
(signed Tignale) that leads from
Porto di Tignale
Visit the village of Limone and swim within sight of this picturesque town or relax
Punta San Vigilio
the lake to the green highlands

of Tremosine, where the views are
absolutely spectacular. The road
follows the back of the mountain, and
then along a narrow and impressive
gorge carved by the River Brasa.
Churchill called it the Eighth Wonder
of the World and it featured in scenes
from the James Bond movie Quantum
of Solace.
Next head towards Trentino on the
north side of the lake. Visit the village
of Limone and swim within sight of
this picturesque town or relax among
the green meadows of Riva del Garda.
Continuing around the top and
down the eastern shore, stop at the
Spiaggia delle Lucertole near Torbole,
before getting to the well-known
historic town of Malcesine on the

north-eastern side of the lake, in the
region of Veneto. Enjoy the sunset
from the Baia delle Sirene park and
then have a drink at the harbour-side
Taverna Punta San Vigilio. Q!
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11.90, including P&P, with
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LAKE GARDA NORTH & EAST
LIMONE SUL GARDA 7

A large, well-looked after beach near the
centre of this pretty village, lined with
restaurants and hotels. There arent many
trees, and it can get busy, but the water is
a gorgeous colour.
Once in Limone, coming from the south, turn
right before the pizzeria Torcol and follow the
road to the harbour car park and park. Turn
back slightly and to the left you will see the
entrance to the beach. Another narrow beach
is located further south, and is accessible
from a small street next to the football pitch
just follow the signs.
RIVA DEL GARDA 7A

Relaxing area with an immaculate beach
full of greenery and trees and equipped for
all sorts of activities. Magnicent view.
From Limone, head north on the SS45 bis
lake road about 10km and park on the road
shortly after the entrance to the village.
Explore the streets of this pretty town
and visit the Museo Civico, which is wellsignposted. Go eastwards along the shore of
the lake until you cross a bridge over a canal
and there you will nd the beach.
SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE 7B

A fantastic rocky beach hidden under an
enormous cliff overlooking the lake.
From Riva del Garda head to Torbole and
continue on the eastern Gardesana (SR249)
south towards Malcesine. After 2km, and the
second tunnel, there is a small car park. Park
and walk back along the tunnel to nd a
path down to the beach.
Limone sul Garda
among the green meadows of Riva del Garda

Limone sul Garda
LAGO DI TOBLINO 8
About 15 minutes north of Garda this lake
is enchanting. Surrounded by reeds and
hills there is also a fairy tale castle that
rises from the mists.
From Riva del Garda continue for about
20km on the SS45bis heading to Trento,
until you reach the lake. Pass the castle and
park at the next turn.
PUNTA SAN VIGILIO 9

A picturesque harbour with shoreside
taverna, a long public beach and the
beautiful olive-grove Baia delle Sirene park
with pay beach and picnic areas. There
is a romantic, relaxing atmosphere and
unforgettable sunsets.
Head south towards Garda along the eastern
Gardesana (SR249). About 2km before
Garda, at the left bend, Punta San Vigilio
is signed on the right. Park and walk down
the beautiful tree-lined avenue. On the right
you will nd Baia delle Sirene and its beach
(payment before 6pm, free afterwards) and
at the bottom to the left the harbour with
Taverna San Vigilio. Reach the free public
beach by going down the stairs on the left
and along the stone wall.
FA S T FA S H I O N
MY MOTHER IN LAW REMEMBERS shopping for

shoes at Ferragamo in Florence many moons ago and
Salvatore Ferragamo would be there with his leather apron
around his waist. The shop is still the same, located in
the magnicent Palazzo Spini Feroni, built in the 13th
century by Geri Spini, in the most elegant area of the
city. It is today the agship store for their international
fashion brand. Ferragamo is still family-run by Salvatores
children and some of the grandchildren. After Salvatores
death in 1960, at the age of 62, his wife Wanda, who had never worked in her
life, and their youngest child was only two years old, immediately took over
the companys reins and has never looked back. She expanded the brand to
clothing and other accessories, and it has gone from strength to strength.
The Ferragamos are considered to be one of the leading Florentine families,
but neither Salvatore nor Wanda were native Tuscans. Salvatore hails from a
Salvatore Ferragamo
small village called Bonito in the Campania region in Southern Italy and was
the eleventh of fourteen children. He made his rst pair of shoes for his sister at
nine years old, for her to wear to communion. At eleven he was apprenticed to
a shoemaker in Naples and later opened a small shop in his parents house.
At fourteen he went to America, following two of his brothers who were in
Boston working in a cowboy boot making factory. He convinced them to go to
California and they opened a shop in Hollywood doing shoe repairs and later
making custom made shoes. Thirteen years later, in 1927, Salvatore returned
to Italy having made his name among the stars and the rich and famous. His
shoes were renowned for creativity in design and innovation, but he was always
interested in the engineering of the shoe for comfort, to the point of enrolling
in anatomy classes at the university of California. One of his inventions was the
steel arch lifting the weight from the ball of the foot to the arch.
He chose Florence as his home due to the long standing excellence in
leather craftsmanship in the city. During the war years, due to the lack of
leather and steel, he used cork and rafa and hemp. He invented the wedge
heel in the 1930s for greater comfort
and increased elegance. His clientele
included Greta Garbo, Audrey
Hepburn and Ingrid Bergman, to
name a few. In 1936 he rented two
shops on the ground oor of the
Palazzo Spini Feroni; two years later
he bought the whole building.
Wanda, his wife, was 20 years
younger than Salvatore. She too
was from Campania and was a great
partner and support to him when
he was alive and a born matriarch
for the family and company after his
death. Their eldest daughter, Fiamma
Above: Ferragamo boutique
Here: creativity in design
(1941-1998), followed in her fathers
creative footsteps and designed the
ABOUT THE WRITER
Vara grossgrain ribbon at shoe in
FREYA MIDDLETON is a private tour guide and writer who lives in Florence, Tuscany.
1978, which is an icon in the Ferragamo You can read her blog online or learn more about her tours at www.freyasorence.com
!
history and a staple in the stores today. Q
Photos Freya Middleton
His shoes were renowned for creativity in design and innovation, but
he was always interested in the engineering of the shoe for comfort
SPECIAL PLACES
TO STAY IN ITALY
Alastair Sawday selects six Italian homestays, B&Bs where
you really feel part of the family, from his new book,
Sawdays Special Places to Stay: Italy on sale now
MASSERIA
SERRALTA
eniamino, a talented architect, and Maria, who has a profound

interest in local tradition, have together restored their 17thcentury trulli with the sort of sensitivity that would make the
most exacting restorer proud. Four guest suites, housed under four
conical roofs, are fresh, cool and stylish with whitewashed walls, pretty
blue shutters and an elegant mix of antiques and funky modern pieces.
Outside, mulberries, olives, prickly pears and lavenders have been
newly planted, and a jasmine-shaded pergola with a vast stone slab
of a table has views over the Murgia Plateau to the shimmering sea
the spot for a sunset aperitivo!
OTHER INFORMATION
PRICE From 90 per night
WEBSITE
www.masseria-serralta.it
ADDRESS SC 86,
Contrada Serralta 39,
70010 Locorotondo, Bari
TEL +39 0804 431193
VILLA ANNA MARIA
repare to escape to an unusual and atmospheric haven. Step

into the entrance hall, decked in marble and graced with
columns and chandeliers, and nd bedrooms, each themed, the
most curious being the Persian and Egyptian, and some seemingly
untouched since the 17th century. Claudio and his wifes collection
of treasures adorn every room; nothing is done by halves. These hosts
care more about people than money, welcoming guests to truly share
their home. Play billiards or table tennis in the games room and
explore the woodland paths that snake through the garden.
OTHER INFORMATION
WEBSITE www.villaannamaria.com
ADDRESS SS dellAbetone 146,
56010 Molina di Quosa, Pisa
TEL +39 3282 334450
LA TRAVERSINA AGRITURISMO
elaxation reigns supreme here with shady terraces, cats dozing

on windowsills and roses gently slinking up the walls. Theres
more than a touch of The Secret Garden about the half-hidden
doors, enticing steps and 230 different varieties of plants. The house
and farm have been in Rosannas family for nearly 300 years, and for
Rosanna, creating this paradise was a labour of love that she gave up
her career as an architect for. A real home from home, bedrooms come
with baskets of goodies, and in the evenings everyone eats homegrown food together.
OTHER INFORMATION
WEBSITE www.latraversina.com
ADDRESS Cascina La Traversina
109, 15060 Stazzano, Alessandria
TEL +39 0143 61377
LEMONS GUEST HOUSE
his 18th century village house is thoughtfully lled with Erica

and Massimos cherished items, from a 10th-century portrait
in the dining room to St Francis in the hallway, each piece ts
perfectly. Find a book-lled rst-oor sitting room, before beamed
bedrooms, both comfortable and elegant some with masterfully
restored frescoes and one with a roll-top bath. Spend a lazy morning
eating a home-made breakfast in the shade of the pergola, then later
slip into the sauna or jacuzzi, an oasis of calm. Sculptors can use the
studio, while sandy beaches are a 15-minute drive and Pisa is just
30 minutes away.
OTHER INFORMATION
WEBSITE
www.lemonsguesthouse.com
ADDRESS Via del Pizzetto 1,

55045 Pietrasanta, Lucca
TEL +39 0584 772402
AGRITURISMO DELO
OTHER INFORMATION
WEBSITE
own in the valley below is Delo di Mizzole, taking its name

from the Greek delos, meaning luminous... an entirely apt
description for the 14th century farmhouse thats been in
Mariantonias family since 1894 and is caressed by the sun all day
long. Surrounded by hills and mountains, the silence here is supreme,
and relaxing bedrooms have spectacular views of terraced olive groves.
Ettore and Mariantonia are warm and hard-working hosts; her loves
include dancing tango and cooking and she is happy to offer classes
in either! Go for a walk or a swim before dropping down for the high
cultural delights of Verona, just 5 miles away.
www.agriturismodelo.it
ADDRESS SC 86,
Via del Torresin, Novaglie,
37141 Verona
TEL +39 0454 858380
FIND OUT MORE
ANTICA OLIVAIA
his beautifully restored 17th century stone house exudes

warmth and character. Inside, rooms are pristine, from exposed
walls, to reclaimed shutters and a wrought iron four poster
bed. Marco and Daniela have an infectious enthusiasm for their new
life in the countryside. A chance to get to know the hosts and chat to
other guests, dinners are social occasions, with Slow Food and olive oil
from the estates 300 ancient trees, and organic veg from a synergistic
garden. Views are stunning over the countryside of Umbria and
Tuscany, hike, ride, or try something different oil or cheese tasting, a
pottery class, or a massage in the olive groves.
For more information and

booking details for all properties go
to www.sawdays.co.uk
OTHER INFORMATION
WEBSITE www.anticaolivaia.com
ADDRESS Localit San Bartolomeo
17, 05018 Orvieto, Terni
TEL +39 0763 215262
Sawdays new Special Places to

Stay Italy is on sale now, priced at
15.99. To buy a copy and for more
information go to the website at
www.sawdays.co.uk
4 TA K E S O N C O F F E E
takes on
4COFFEE
iStock photo
Weve got some great coffee-based recipes for you this month all luxurious, and yet oh so
simple to make. Try these, then visit www.seriousaboutcoffee.com/recipes to nd more, and
learn how to make the perfect biscotti and desserts to complement your creations
4 TA K E S O N C O F F E E
2
Superfoodie Iced Coffee
Caff superfood con ghiaccio
Sweet and Salty

Hangover Cure
Rimedio dolce-salato per
il dopo-sbronza
You can detect blackcurrant notes in many

coffees, so it makes sense to pair the two.
Weve used a blackcurrant tea that also
contains blueberry and acai berry to really
ramp up the goodness in your glass (available
in supermarkets). Note: Matcha is a powdered
green tea that is absolutely packed with
antioxidants. However, if you nd you dont like
the earthy taste of it on its own, this recipe is
the perfect drink for you.
Recipes and images DeLonghi www.seriousaboutcoffee.com
SERVES 1
Preparation
15 minutes
100ml strong brewed blackcurrant tea

1 shot of espresso
ice
1
/8 tsp Matcha tea powder
1 tsp agave syrup

Let the blackcurrant tea brew for at least 10 minutes.
Add the espresso to the tea and then, along with a scoop
of ice, add it and the rest of the ingredients to a cocktail
shaker (or large kilner jar with a well-tting lid and seal)
and shake hard but briey, to chill.
Strain into a tall glass over good quality cubed ice to
serve and drink straight away. (Dont allow the ice to
dilute the drink.)
Getting lost salts and sugars back into the

body when youve overdone it will help you
feel better straight away, and this drink also
contains a little protein alongside the caffeine
to help you back on your feet without
making anyone drink a raw egg! If you like salt
caramels, then you will love this.
SERVES 1
Preparation
5 minutes
1 shot of espresso
240ml ice cold milk
(you could use almond milk to make this dairy free)
to 1 tbsp smooth peanut butter
tsp agave syrup or 1 tsp sugar syrup
coarse sea salt, to taste
Blitz everything together in a blender and strain to serve
in a tall or hurricane glass. Can be served over cubed ice.
Garnish with a sprinkling of coarse sea salt.
4
Decadent Iced Coffee
Decadente caff con ghiaccio
Cherry Espresso Martini

Caff espresso con vodka
alla ciliegia
This is also dangerously good with 30ml of

bourbon added to it, a great way to nish a
long, lazy brunch.
SERVES 1
Preparation
5 minutes
Cherry vodka is perfect with coffee, bringing

out the red fruit notes in many coffees. Kahlua
coffee liqueur is a classic match for coffee in
cocktails. If you cant nd cherry vodka, try this
with cherry liqueur instead.
200ml almond milk

2 scoops quality vanilla ice cream,
made with real vanilla
2 shots of espresso
Blitz all in a blender, serve over ice as desired. Garnish
with a couple of whole coffee beans.
If you use normal milk then you might want to add a little
honey, say a teaspoon or so.
SERVES 1
Preparation
5 minutes
1 shot of espresso
30ml cherry vodka (we use Davna Czeri, a Polish
cherry vodka, but you could also use Cherry Heering or
Adnams cherry liqueur)
20ml Kahlua
Shake all ingredients hard over cubed ice. Strain into a
coupe or martini glass.
CHEF'S NOTES
At 60C the proteins in

the meat, such as collagen,
start to melt
Laura Santtini describes the time-honoured tradition of slow cooking, and

how it is central to the philosophy of the Italian kitchen
he popularity of slow cooking
is mainly down to the fact
that such meals are generally
easier to make and are very cost
effective because they use cheap
cuts of meat. The cuts best suited to slow
cooking are the harder working muscles and
meat with a high fat content, such as shin
of beef, pork belly and lamb shoulder. Such
cuts improve in texture and flavour when
they are cooked for long periods of time at a
low temperature, because they contain a large
amount of connective tissue and at 60C the
proteins in the meat, such as collagen, start to
melt, turning the meat rich and gelatinous,
adding superb flavour.
There are lots of examples of Italian
slow cooked dishes. There is cacciucco, a
slow-cooked fish stew from Tuscany and
Liguria; ciambotta, a vegetable-based stew
from southern Italy; ollito misto, a mixture
of slow cooked meats in a meat broth from
northern Italy; and brasato al barolo, the
Piemontese dish of beef braised in Barolo
wine. All of these dishes, and Italian
cuisine in general, are characterised by their
simplicity, with many dishes only having a
handful of ingredients. Italian cooks like to
let the quality of the ingredients shine rather
than hide them behind elaborate cooking

techniques and fussy flavours. So when
making a traditional It lian stew or casserole,
apart from the meat, the other ingredients
can be as simple as a basic soffritto base of
onion, carrot a c ery, tomato paste, r
wine, herbs and seasoning. Oh, and
more
crucial ingredient cooking time and lots of
it. But nothing else; t let the ingredients
sing for themselves.
The idea of slow cooking is all well and
good but sometimes in our hectic, modernday lives there is not even enough time to
throw ingredients in a slow cooker before
we rush off to work. That is why I created
Bomba! XXX tomato pure. It combines
tomatoes with a soffritto base and rich Italian
red wine and is triple concentrated for an
intense, rich flavour you can add to soups,
stews and sauces to get that authentic slow
cooked flavour in a fraction of the time.
The first recipe here is leg over lamb,
which cooks slowly for up to six hours, if y
have the time. The other is my chicken and
orzo stew, where slow-cooked flavours are
delivered fast. And if you really dont have
any time to cook at all, try frying up the
leftovers of a roast dinner just add a good
squeeze of Bomba and a splash of hot water!
Chicken and Orzo Stew

Spezzatino di pollo con orzo
SERVES 4-6 PREPARATION 15 minutes COOKING 90 minutes
2 tbsp olive oil
flat leaf parsley, chopped (to serve)
6-8 skinless, boneless chicken thighs
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan

and fry the chicken in two batches, on
both sides, until golden, adding extra oil if
needed. Remove and set aside.
2 onions, sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
125ml white wine
400ml chicken stock
400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp Bomba! XXX tomato pure,
or another tomato pure
2-3 sprigs thyme
2-3 sprigs rosemary
1 bay leaf
the juice and zest of 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground pepper
175g orzo pasta
250g kalamata olives
1 tsp honey (optional)
In the same pan, fry the onions until

softened, then add the garlic and cook for a
further minute. Pour in the wine, stirring to
deglaze the pan. Add the stock, tomoatoes,
tomato pure, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf and
lemon juice and give it a good stir.
Return the chicken to the pan, season with
salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Cover
and cook for 45 minutes.
Now add the orzo, olives and lemon zest
and simmer again for around 15-20 minutes
until the pasta is cooked to al dente, stirring
regularly to prevent sticking.
Before serving, check the seasoning and stir
through the honey if you need to balance
the acidity of the tomatoes. Serve sprinkled
with the at leaf parsley.
Leg-over Lamb
Cosciotto di agnello
SERVES 4-6
PREPARATION 15 minutes
COOKING 6 hours
2kg leg of lamb
4 garlic cloves, each cut into 3
3 anchovies (optional), each cut into 4 pieces
2 sprigs of rosemary, cut into 2.5cm lengths
3 tbsp olive oil
salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
4 red onions, cut into quarters
350ml red wine
125ml port (if you dont have any, increase the wine to 475ml)
1-2 tbsp herb or berry jelly (mint, rosemary, redcurrant, sage)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar (thick type)
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 tbsp chopped fresh sage
1 tbsp chopped fresh mint
Preheat the oven to 120C/Gas Mark . Make slits in the lamb and
stuff each hole with a piece of garlic, a piece of anchovy, if using,
and some rosemary, using your nger to push them right in.
Heat the olive oil in a large casserole, add the lamb and brown it
well on all sides. Season with salt and pepper, and add the onions,
red wine and port, if using. Mix the herb jelly, balsamic vinegar
and fresh herbs together, and spoon over the lamb. Cover with a
tight-tting lid and cook for around 5-6 hours, until the meat is
falling off the bone.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR

If I were to be so frank I would print the words
Cognitive Cook, because my work is all about
exploring the inextricable link between avours
and feelings. For me it is about learning to
taste what you feel and feel what you taste, it is a desire to
understand and recognize the ingredients that affect the avour
of your life both in and out of the kitchen.
Laura Santtini, author and restaurateur www.laurasanttini.com
E AT I TA L I A !
Pronto!
Best-selling TV chef Gino DAcampo reveals some simple

shortcuts for cooking quick Italian meals with all the avour
and just a pinch of effort
Cod llets with

salami, cherry
tomatoes and
rosemary
Merluzzo alla
napoletana
I like this recipe as the ingredients
remind me of my home in Naples.
You can substitute the salami with
chorizo or pancetta if you prefer.
SERVES 4
COOKING 15 minutes
500g baby potatoes, skin on
30g salted butter
3 tbsp olive oil
From Pronto! by Gino DAcampo, photography by Matt Russell, published by Kyle Books, 19.99 (hardback)
100g salami Napoli, skin removed, cut

into 1cm cubes
4 cod fillets, each about 150g, skin on
100ml white wine
300g cherry tomatoes, halved
1 tbsp fresh rosemary leaves,
finely chopped
salt and black pepper, to taste
Put the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover
with boiling water from the kettle, add 1 tsp
salt and boil for 10 minutes. Drain, cut the
potatoes in half and set aside.
Heat the butter and oil in a large pan over a
medium heat and fry the salami for 2 minutes.
Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon.
Add the cod, skin-side down rst, and cook
for 4 minutes. Gently turn the llets and cook
for a further minute. Lift the sh out and onto
a warm plate, cover with foil and set aside.
Add the wine, tomatoes and rosemary to
the pan and let everything bubble away for
2 minutes. Add in the cooked potatoes and
continue to cook for a further minute to heat
through. Season with salt and pepper.
Spoon the potatoes and sauce into the centre
of each serving plate and gently place the cod
llets on top. Serve immediately.
Fresh lobster
with chilli, garlic
and olive oil
Aragosta aglio, olio
e peperoncino
This recipe is a bit more
extravagant, not in terms of
preparation but in terms of cost.
There arent many ingredients here
as I want to keep things quick
and simple and not take attention
away from the lobster that has
to be the star of the show.
SERVES 4
COOKING 1 minute
2 large whole live lobsters
(approximately 1.5kg each)
the juice of 2 lemons
8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
tsp dried chilli flakes
salt, to taste
Fill a very large pot with boiling water from
the kettle. Add 1 tbsp salt and bring to the
boil. Plunge the live lobsters into the boiling
water and cook for 10 minutes exactly.
Meanwhile, prepare a very large bowl of cold
water, adding in a few ice cubes if necessary.
Remove the lobsters from the boiling water
and drop immediately into the cold water for
3 minutes. Remove and drain.
Preheat the grill to the highest setting.
Place the lobsters on their backs on a large
chopping board and, holding them steady with
your free hand, use a large, heavy knife to cut
from the top of the head straight down to the
end of the tail. Turn them over and use the
same technique to cut through the shell on
the back. By now you should have each lobster
separated in two halves.
Twist the claws away from the body and use
a large knife to cut the shells by holding the
knife in place and banging the top of it down
with the other hand. Pick out the esh and
place on top of the lobster halves.
Squeeze the lemon juice all over the esh and
drizzle over the oil. Spread the crushed garlic
over the lobster esh and sprinkle over the
chilli akes. Season with salt.
Place the prepared halves, esh-side up, under
the hot grill for 1 minute. Dont overcook
the lobster otherwise it will be chewy. Serve
immediately accompanied with a fresh salad.
E AT I TA L I A !
Pork chops
with sage and
cannellini beans
Maiale burro e salvia
Italians love to cook with canned
beans and will always have a good
stock of them in their cupboards.
They are so versatile and there
is no need for long soaking and
cooking; its all done for you.
White cannellini beans are a
staple: their mealy texture and
nutty avour is great with pork.
SERVES 4
COOKING 15 minutes
4 tbsp olive oil
4 x 200-250g pork loin chops
4 sprigs of thyme
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2 x 400g cans of cannellini beans,
drained
50ml white wine
1 tsp vegetable stock powder
100ml water
100ml double cream
50g unsalted butter
16 small sage leaves
salt and white pepper, to taste
Heat half the olive oil in a large frying pan
and cook the chops with the thyme for
4 minutes on each side.
Meanwhile, pour the remaining oil into a
medium frying pan. Grate in the garlic and add
the beans. Stir and cook for 2 minutes. Pour
the wine over the beans and cook for a further
2 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Sprinkle the stock powder over the beans, pour
in the water and gently cook for 1 minute.
Pour in the cream and continue to simmer for
3 minutes.
Meanwhile, transfer the pork chops to a plate.
Season with salt and pepper, cover with foil
and set aside.
Melt the butter in the pan used to cook the
chops. Add 12 of the sage leaves and fry for
1 minute until crisp. Set aside.
Shred the remaining sage leaves and stir into
the beans. Season well with salt and pepper
and divide between 4 serving plates.
Place the pork chops on top of the beans and
drizzle over the sage butter. Top with the
crispy sage leaves.
Rare roast beef

with minty potato
salad
Insalata di manzo
e patate
This is a delicious salad. I love the
combination of the cold dressing
and salad with the warm beef and
potatoes. If you have any leftover
beef from your Sunday roast this is
a great way to use it up.
SERVES 4
COOKING 30 minutes
300g small waxy new potatoes
8 mint leaves
400g beef fillet
2 tbsp olive oil
8 tbsp mayonnaise
1 small garlic clove, peeled
1 avocado
10 radishes, quartered
175g chargrilled artichokes in oil,
drained and quartered
6 spring onions, finely chopped
salt and white pepper, to taste
Preheat the oven to 200C/Gas Mark 6. Put
the potatoes and half of the mint in a medium
saucepan, cover with boiling water from the
kettle, add 1 tsp salt and cook for 10 minutes.
INFORMATION
Meanwhile, put a frying pan with an ovenproof

handle over a high heat.
Rub the beef with the oil and put in the hot
pan. Sear on all sides until browned, and then
transfer to the oven to cook for 8 minutes.
Put the mayonnaise in a bowl and nely grate
in the garlic clove. Chop the remaining mint
leaves and add to the mayo. Add a little water
to create a runny dressing and season with salt
and pepper. Set aside.
Drain the potatoes and leave to cool.
Transfer the beef from the oven to a plate and
season with salt and pepper. Cover with foil
and set aside to rest at room temperature.
Meanwhile, halve the avocado and remove the
stone. Peel off the skin and cut the esh into
rough chunks. Halve the cooled potatoes.
Pronto! By Gino DAcampo,

photography by Matt Russell, is
published by Kyle Books. Price: 19.99
Use a long sharp knife to cut the beef into

thin slices. Arrange them over a platter and
scatter the prepared radishes, artichokes
and avocado on top. Drizzle over the mayo
dressing and sprinkle over the spring onions.
B U Y I TA L I A !
DRIED PASTA
There are more varieties of dried pasta available than there
are days of the year So what weve tried to do this month
is provide something for everybody
ou dont have to go to too many lunch parties where pasta is being

served before you hear the old one about how it was in fact the
Chinese who invented pasta and the Italians who stole the idea
a few thousand years later. Marco Polo then turns up in the explanation,
the idea being that he was the rst person to bring back a bag from his
holidays This just isnt true. For one thing, we dont even know if Marco
Polo ever actually went to China. It has been suggested that he never
ventured farther than Persia, and that the stories he told Rustichello da Pisa
(who wrote The Travels of Marco Polo) about the Orient were collected from
people he had met there. And for another thing, the Italians (or at least the
Sicilians) were making pasta a long time before Marco Polo certainly for a
century before his time and maybe even for 500 years, or more. Its possible
that the recipe arrived in Sicily with the Arab conquests of the 9th century,
though the Sicilians were already cultivating wheat and in quantity in
ancient times, so it may be even older than that. It may have been invented
by the Etruscans But it certainly wasnt the Chinese.
LIA! E
Paccheri are a typically

Neapolitan pasta. The name
apparently derives from the
Ancient Greek and the word
still exists in the local dialect,
where it translates as openhanded slaps. The idea of that
is supposed to be that paccheri
tubes are so large that they
slap around the sauce. They
have excellent colour and a good,
rough texture to pick up the
sauce. We felt they warranted a
rich and thick meat-based coating,
and we happened to have some of
the nduja we featured last month
still in the fridge, so we used that
in an absolutely fuss-free sauce
(fry off some onions, maybe a
little sage, no salt theres plenty
in the nduja).
TO
DI R
S CHO
From Puglia Shop Online

www.pugliashoponline.com
Price 3.75/500g
JULY
2014
IT
ICE A
TENUTA MARMORELLE
PACCHERI
1 CARLUCCIOS
GARGANELLI
PRIMAVERA
2 RUMMO ORGANIC
WHOLE WHEAT
FUSILLI NO. 48
From Carluccios
www.carluccios.com
Price 3.95/500g
From Ocado
www.ocado.com
Price 1.85/500g
Garganelli are egg-based

pastas made by rolling a
square noodle into a tube.
Representing the colours of
the Italian ag, these from
Carluccios include a plain egg
pasta alongside tomato and
spinach avoured pastas. They
would work well with a grilled
vegetable sauce but are plenty
avoursome enough to stand
on their own, with a drizzle of
oil and a little hard cheese.
Whole wheat pasta, while

rich in dietary bre and
a good source of complex
carbohydrates, is not to
everyones taste, but if it is
to yours, Ocado is the place to
go for the imported Rummo
brand. If it isnt, why not
give it another try? Pasta
makers have come a long way
in recent years in improving
the taste and texture of their
whole grain products.
VERDICT +++++
VERDICT +++++
VERDICT +++
A voluminous pasta best suited to a rich sauce. Just

right for Sunday lunch, with a bottle of robust red wine.
The best ingredients in good

quantity. Ideal with veg but
also very nice on their own.
An ne contribution to
our table from the online
supermarket.
4
6
3 SUMA ITALIAN
ORGANIC WHITE
MACARONI
From Suma
www.suma.coop
Price around 1/500g
Italian organic pasta made
by Iris Bio in Lombardy, a
workers cooperative since
1978. The pasta is produced
just 10km from the farm
where the wheat is grown,
using bronze dies (pasta
shaping tools) which help
to create a texture that
holds a sauce better than
conventional methods. Add to
hearty winter soups or light
summer salads.
4 SAINSBURYS
TASTE THE
DIFFERENCE
MILLERIGHE
From Sainsburys
www.sainsburys.co.uk
Price 1.25/500g
Millerighe can translate as
a thousand lines and this
is the difference between
this pasta and the paccheri:
it has lots of little lines. We
tried this one with an nduja
based sauce too in fact,
this was the prototype for
the recipe we now believe we
have perfected! Being lined,
though, means it will take a
lighter sauce too.
6 DOVES FARM
5 GERARDO DI NOLA
GLUTEN-FREE
PASTA RANGE
ORGANIC PASTA
From Something Italian
www.something-italian.com
Price 3.50/500g each
The Gerardo di Nola range is
now available via Something
Italian. Buy individually or
take the whole hamper
containing one paccheri, one
half paccheri, two spaghetti,
two linguine (all 500g), and
three 400g tins of tomato
llets, for 39.50. We tried
the mezzi paccheri with
a jar of Seggiano tomato
pasta sauce from the same
supplier. Quick, simple and
very tasty.
From Doves Farm

www.dovesfarm.co.uk
Price 2.49/500g
Weve already provided
something for the whole
wheat fans, something
for the vegans and dairyintolerant Now heres our
choice for the gluten-free
brigade. Gluten-free pasta
is usually either horrid or
horridly expensive, so this
Doves Farm product is quite
a nd. Made with maize
and rice, and suitable for
vegetarians and vegans.
VERDICT ++++
VERDICT +++
VERDICT +++++
VERDICT ++++
The choice for vegans, and

anyone who is egg- or lactoseintolerant.
A versatile pasta often used

with mushroom and rootvegetable based sauces.
A superior, highly consistent

texture that will bring out
the best in all your sauces.
To say you wouldnt know

its not wheat is a bold
claim, but its not far off.
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
JIM AND LEA MCKNOULTY

run Casa Mercatello, a
service that helps people
nd property to own or
rent in the Apennine town
of Mercatello sul Metauro.
As well as nding property
they can also assist you in
all aspects of your visit or
relocation. www.casamercatello.com
ANDREA REDIVO ZAGLIA is
the manager of Properties
in Italy, an Italian-based
estate agency specialising
in properties in the
Veneto region, Venice and
Euganean Hills. For more
information call him on
+39 349 452 0481 or
visit his website at www.propertiesinitaly.net
TONY BASSETT is the
manager of Tuscan Secrets,
a UK-based agency whose
services includes nding
and booking independent
hotels, villas, farmhouses
and special interest
holidays. Email tony@
sunninghilltravel.co.uk
01344 627586 www.sunninghilltravel.co.uk
LAURA PROTTI is dual
qualied as an Italian
avvocato and English
solicitor. She has extensive
experience in Italian
property law, international
private law, contract
law, succession law, and
taxation, and has assisted
with the drafting and updating of books and
articles on Italian Law. www.leplaw.co.uk
MARK SWIFT
is Marketing Manager
at DeLonghi UK and
has a wealth of knowledge
about coffee. DeLonghi
make some of the best
coffee machines on the
market today to see
the full range of options
for home coffee machines see their website at
www.seriousaboutcoffee.com
QUESTIONS
& ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help with all your questions about Italy.
Email your questions to italia@anthem-publishing.com, or write to us
at our usual address, as given on page 6
LONG TERM RENTS
BUYING IN VENICE
We are interested in moving to Le Marche, but

would rst like to experience what it is like to
live there. Could you recommend a small townhouse
or apartment that we could rent on a long term
basis, to get a real feel for the region?
Joanna Chisholm, by email
Le Marche is a beautiful region! Often

referred to as the undiscovered version of
Tuscany, its full of authentic hilltop towns,
medieval villages, beautiful countryside and
family-run trattorias, all relatively untouched
by tourism.
A great base to explore the region is
a small, authentic medieval village called
Mercatello sul Metauro, where weve happily
owned our property for a number of years. The
town is historic, unspoilt and quaint, with
several bars, restaurants, churches and delis,
and yet central enough to be a great base for
travelling around Italy.
The local community of 1,500 are very
friendly, and although little English is spoken,
its easy to communicate and its a great way
to ensure you improve your Italian! Visiting
the neighbouring towns and villages is just a
short, scenic drive away, whilst Italys major
cities and airports are within driving distance
as well.
There are several local rental options
in the area, please email us direct at ciao@
casamercatello.com for more details.
Jim & Lea McKnoulty, Casa Mercatello
iStock Photo
THIS MONTHS
EXPERTS
Buying in Venice
We are frequent visitors to Venice for Carnival

and would like to buy a small place there
where we could stay in the winter and rent out for
the rest of the year. But were told that property in
Venice is prohibitively expensive. Is this really so?
Louise Chapman, by email
Venice is indeed one of the most popular

tourist destinations in the world, and as
such, property prices have not seen the decline
that has been experienced in other parts of
Italy and Europe as a whole.
This has proven La Serenissima to be a
very wise investment location. Properties are
still affordable for the discerning buyer, and
with holiday home occupancy rates that can
reach 80 per cent or higher annually, the rental
return on your investment can prove to be
more than fruitful.
Be open to options in your search as
well. A property in need of some updating
and renovation may be more negotiable than
one that is showroom ready. Also take into
consideration the proximity to amenities
which your potential guests will desire ie.
restaurants and cafs, grocers, the main tourist
sites, and public transportation.
With so many properties in Venice being
used as holiday homes, the tourist has a vast
selection to choose from. While you may fall
in love with a particular property because it
has a canal view, it is a good idea to bear in
mind your potential guests experience and
seek to strike a happy balance between what
you love and what they will enjoy.
How accessible is your property? Is it on
the fth oor without a lift, which would
require your guests to carry their luggage up
numerous ights of stairs? Is it located in one
of the more remote areas of the city, which
may offer a lower selling price, but will be less
attractive to your guests because of the effort it
would take to reach it?
A knowledgeable and successful estate
agent will be your best ally in the successful
search for your holiday property. A good estate
agent will know which areas of the city are
ITALIA!
legal
expert
Andrea Redivo Zaglia, Properties in Italy
DEEPER INTO TUSCANY
We have been to Florence and Pisa but would

like to see more of Tuscany. Can you suggest
some good places to go?
Mark Whitehead, by email
There is an important east-west road

between Florence and Pisa you may
have used it to get to the airport. This marks
an interesting geographical boundary too. To
the north you have very rugged, mountainous
land; to the south, rolling hills.
Between Pisa and Florence is one of my
favourite small cites in Tuscany. Yet despite
being a small city, Lucca has a big history that
comfortably predates Roman times. Traces of
the Roman amphitheatre can still be clearly
seen. It still has its medieval walls, upon which
today people run, jog and even cycle. The city
is just full of wonderful palazzo buildings that
reect its rich history, a history in which its
wealth was created primarily by the silk trade
and banking.
Directly north of Lucca is the Serchio
Valley, nestled between the rugged Apuan
Alps and the Apennines. This was a erce
battle ground during World War Two, when
guns were placed in the hilltop villages to slow
the Allied troops who were advancing north.
Thankfully, today we can enjoy these historical
medieval hilltop villages and discover
traditional food served, at traditional prices for
the locals rather than for the tourist trade. I
should also include Ponte del Diavolo, which
has a most wonderful legend as to where its
shape comes from The bar just opposite the
car park here serves wonderful pasta.
If we travel south from Florence we have
to include the iconic Siena, home of the Palio
as well as Montepulciano and San Gimignano,
Arezzo and Cortona the latter dating back
prior to the Etruscans. Cortona overlooks Lake
Trasimeno where Hannibal ambushed the
Roman army.
Although Tuscany today is seen as a
single state, its history is still evident from
the time when it was made up of individual
republics, each with its own dialect and each
using different ingredients to create differing
food styles and tastes. Despite having visited
Tuscany innumerable times, each time I go, I
still discover more of its secrets and I know
it still hides many more.
LETTING
OUT RENTAL
ACCOMMODATION
We have read in Italia! that

setting up a B&B involves much
bureaucracy; does this also apply to
letting out rental accommodation?
Barbara Briers, Munich
Any rental agreement,

including tourist ones, must
be formalised in writing, even if it
is going to last for a few days only.
The rent can be freely
determined by the parties and
therefore it is only subject to
market rules.
A deposit and security are
not mandatory, but it is standard
practice to request them.
If the duration of the contract
exceeds one month it must be
registered with the relevant tax
authorities. The registration
costs must be divided 50 per
cent between the tenant and the
landlord.
It is also important to bear
in mind that the owner must
regularly declare the rental income
to the Italian tax authorities even
when the owner is not permanently
resident in Italy.
The taxes paid on rental income
may be deducted from those due
in the United Kingdom by taking
advantage of the double taxation
treaty between Italy and the UK.
Laura Protti, LEP Law
iStock Photo
more popular with tourists, and will also be

able to help you nd those which will suit
your needs, as well as holding appeal to a
potential holiday guest.
Laura Protti is the founder of LEP Law.

She is dual-qualied as an Italian avvocato
and English solicitor, and specialises in
assisting British and Italian clients with
matters relating to Italian law. Visit her
website at www.leplaw.co.uk for more.
offee
Corner
NESPRESSO
PODS
I see that even Caf

Direct are now selling
coffee pods. Is the Nespresso
pod the coffee of the future?
Andrew Johnson, Winchester
Why Nespresso? Each single-use Nespresso

capsule is guaranteed to keep the coffee fresh
for up to 12 months. All the coffee grounds
remain in the capsule even after use, making
it simple, clean and fuss-free to use. You dont
need a course as a barista in coffee making
to enjoy the highest barista-quality coffee at
home. With more than 20 varieties, including
speciality promotions and limited edition
avours, you have plenty to choose from. With
its distinctive coloured aluminium packaging,
this can be a great way to offer personalised
coffees at dinner parties.
You can only buy Nespresso capsules
from Nespresso Boutique shops, or from the
Nespresso website. This is to ensure that
Nespresso maintain the strictest and highest
quality control and maintain exclusivity by
becoming a member of the Nespresso club.
If you prefer to choose specic coffee
varieties and control the coffee making process,
you may prefer another product, such as a
traditional Italian coffee machine, or a Bean to
Cup machine where you can prepare all your
favourite coffee shop drinks using fresh beans
and fresh milk all at the touch of a button.
Why not visit our coffee website www.
seriousaboutcoffee.com and click on the
Products Find your
machine. You just
need to answer a
few questions and it
will automatically
by analysing your
answers will determine
what your ideal coffee
machine would be.
Mark Swift,
DeLonghi
Tony Bassett, Tuscan Secrets
NEXT MONTH IN
ITALIA!
AMALFI VIEWS
Take in the coastal vistas, exquisite food and crystal waters on

a gourmet road trip along the Amal Coast
Hidden trails of Sardinia

Self-guided walks to discover
Contents may be subject to change. Main image Hannah Bellis
Enjoy the thermal water of Ischia,

healing pools & garden delights
Spend 48 hours around Lake Orta,
northern Italys tranquil lakeside
Piedmont property secrets an
Italian home amid the mountains
PLUS Cycling in the Dolomites, best wines
from Valpolicella, secrets of Italian vegetables
from the kitchens of Rome and more!
PICNIC TIME
Mario shares recipes
for the ultimate
Italian hamper
Subscribe & save money! Turn to page 44 to ensure you never miss an issue!
DONT MISS ITALIA! ISSUE 117 ON SALE 10 JULY
iStock photo
D R I N K I TA L I A !
ISLAND
WHITES
Match the sunny weather with wines grown on Italys
southern islands. Hannah Bellis investigates the
under-appreciated wines of Sicily and Sardinia
icily is a region composed entirely of islands, from giant Sicily itself to

the smallest of the satellite Aeolian Islands that make up the region.
Sardinia is the same. Isolated from the mainland, and exposed to the
gastronomic inuences of the Arabs, its no surprise that these islands
have their own wine identities too. The most notable is Sicilys history
with Marsala. More land is dedicated to vines on Sicily than in any other region,
and more than half of that is Catarratto, a key blending wine in Marsala, as well
as the base of several of Sicilys DOC wines, and only grown in Sicily. When
More land is dedicated to growing vines

on Sicily than in any other region
treated well it has a rich and spicy personality not too different from a Viognier,
but that is not why it is so prevalent here its exceptionally stable and can resist
the stresses of the strong sun of the south. The popular vines of Sicily have been
chosen for their stability rather than their avour, and are often decient in some
way so they need to be blended to create character. As well as Catarretto, Inzolia
and Grecanico are the key native grapes, and increasingly Chardonnay is grown as
it balances blends so well, and is a very successful vine to grow here!
Its quite a different story on Sardinia. Here they have a DOCG wine
Vermentino di Gallura, and Vermentino is certainly the islands star grape. Ive
always been more familiar with this variety from its Ligurian plantings, and
was happy to address that with the tastings for this months column. Ligurian
Vermentino is more delicate than its full-bodied Sardinian counterpart the
strength of the southern sun intensies the grape, and the granite soils make
the vines struggle for roots that concentrate the aromas even further. If, like me,
youve not tried the Sardinian variety, summer is the best time to correct that.
REGALEALI BIANCO
SICILIA 2013
AVITO GRILLO
2012
From Berkmann Wines

www.allaboutwine.com
Price 12
This aromatic wine is
composed of three local
grapes Grecanico, Catarratto
and Inzolia with 12 per
cent Chardonnay by venerable
Tasca dAlmerita. In the
hands of skilled winemakers
like the Tasca family,
blending can produce a well
balanced wine, and that is
what you nd here. Aromas
of citrus and green orchard
fruits are balanced on the
palate by a light acidity and
lingering mineral nish with
touches of sharp grapefruit.
Its a wonderfully youthful,
fresh, summer wine.
From Marks and Spencer

www.marksandspencer.com
Price 65.94 for a case of 6
Theres no blend here this
is 100 per cent Grillo, a really
classic Sicilian grape, often
used in Marsala, but fallen
out of favour in recent years.
You can taste a little of the
Marsala element here too
aromas of honeysuckle and
pear expand to ripe peach
on the palate and a touch
of sweet citrus. Its a dry
wine but these aromas bring
a lovely sweet nish on the
palate. Deliciously different,
and this would also help it
partner with strong spicy
avours like nduja or spiced
Italian salami.
CALA SILENTE
VERMENTINO DI
SARDEGNA 2013
From Great Western Wine
www.greatwesternwine.co.uk
Price 13.95
Ive enjoyed this in the 2012
vintage and the 2013 is even
better. Its a lovely golden
green in the glass, with
aromas of stone fruit and
even a little tropical lychee
and lime. It is more subtly
fruit on the palate, which
stops the tropical notes from
overpowering. Instead you
get sweet lemon with hints
of almond and pine nut, with
tropical fruits coming in the
nish. A very enjoyable and
balanced white, but perhaps
a tad expensive unless you
buy a case so do that!
ERUZIONE 1614
CARRICANTE 2012
Price 18.50
Carricante is grown around
Mount Etna, and tasting this
I wish it was more prevalent.
On the nose there is less fruit
than in others here, just a
little green apple with lime
and a hint of honey. The
palate is unusual too, with
a non-salty minerality that
comes from the complexity of
volcanic soil. There are also
herbal complexities that the
strong sun usually knocks out
of Sicilian wines rosemary
and mint that linger with
the minerality. A very stylish
wine, that could develop even
further if you want to keep it.
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
Seared octopus on white

beans dressed with lemon
juice and good olive oil
Summer picnics the

screw top makes it perfect
for impromptu drinking
Partner this with roast

tomato crostini drizzled
with oil-heavy pesto
Serve with lobster in a

lemon and herb butter
match quality with quality!
D R I N K I TA L I A !
ITALIA! DISCOVERY OF THE MONTH

Villa Solais Vermentino di Sardegna 2013
Price 10.95
V
SCO E
H DI
NT
From Liberty Wines

www.libertywines.co.uk
Price 11.99
Youll nd Vermentino wines
across the south, but a cooler
summer meant than 2012
was a good year for Sardinia
growers, so youd expect a
2012 Sardinian wine to be
good. True to form, this one
is a great example of this
grape, expressed creatively
by relatively new winemaker
Gavino Sanna. On the nose
you nd aromatic jasmine,
sweet basil and ripe pear
expanding with pineapple in
the mouth, balanced with a
fresh acidity and a long nish
of orchard fruit. Gavino Sanna
is clearly one to watch.
JULY
2014
MO
HE
From Liberty Wines

www.libertywines.co.uk
Price 12.99
Here is a wine showing off
Sicilys Catarratto grape in a
good light, blended half and
half with Viognier, which
helps bring out its best
characteristics. With aromas
of tropical fruit and a little
spice, it is very rich in the
mouth, with tropical fruit
pineapple, orange, melon
and papaya but balanced
by a freshness that stops it
becoming too fruit-cocktaily.
You need to serve this nice
and chilled, but it will enliven
and refresh your palate after
a hot day in the sun.
VERMENTINO DI
SARDEGNA 2012
OF T
RY
POLENA
DONNAFUGATA
2013
Its been a hard month to choose our discovery of

the month, because there are different wines on offer
within the island white bracket. And I did hesitate
at selecting the Villa Solais Vermentino di Sardegna
because it is (heavens!) a screw cap, and I still have a
few old prejudices about these. But there is no denying
that at 10.95 it does offer exceptional value for
money, and I suspect that in the summer, when we are
more inclined to open a few bottles, price is more of a
consideration and with a price like this, and a screw
cap, Villa Solais is extremely easy to open! And there
are some sophisticated nuances here when you do.
The aromas are, as youd expect for a Vermentino, all
pear, apple and citrus, but these expand on the palate
with almond, and hints of sage and even mint, with
a salty minerality to refresh in the long nish. Some
of these subtleties must come from the 30 per cent
Nuragus blend, a less respected Sardinian grape, as this
shows more character than most other Vermentinos.
Perfect with shellsh Id serve it with pasta vongole.
The aromas are all pear, apple and citrus,

but these expand on the palate
QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
Enjoy with a lightly spiced

crab and mango salad
summer in a glass
Mussels cooked with pesto

and tomato, and fresh
crusty bread for the juices
iStock photo
Wine labels in both Sardinia and Sicily are almost entirely made up of
cooperatives, due to land distribution systems of the past. Cooperatives used to
sell their produce to be used as cheap blending wines for noble French varieties.
Vines were selected for yield not avour, and it was only when the market
started to collapse when France found new cheaper sources for blending wine in
the 1980s that the focus began to shift to expressing their native vines in their
own right, and a growing expertise in viniculture has been developing. Thirty
years later we are starting to see some exciting wines, but they are still pretty
unknown, which means that prices are competitive. Explore these regional wines
and you can nd some great bargains!
BOOK REVIEWS
IN PRINT
In this months selection of books we nd some special places to stay
in Italy, some out of the way places to swim, and a phrase book like no
other to help you nd your way around
WILD SWIMMING: ITALY
Michele Tameni, Wild Things Publishing, 16.99 (paperback)

Italy has an abundance of stunning waterfalls, lakes and hot
springs that just beg to be explored. There are hundreds of
beautifully scenic areas where people go to cool off in the Italian
sun, or just make new adventures. With this new guide, seasoned
traveller and waterhole-explorer Michele Tameni offers his advice
on the best places to visit on those days when city life just isnt
doing it for you. You can go to the well-known areas popular
with Italian locals, such as the Fiume Savio in Central Romagna,
or you can venture off the beaten track and nd those more
secluded spots to give yourself ultimate privacy. Whats more,
many of these areas offer spectacular views over the surrounding
Italian countryside and mountains, including tiny villages such
as Bogliaco, which seems squeezed between the mountains and
the water. With dozens of colour images, this book is enough
to make anybody jealous of those lucky Italians who call these
areas their homes, but you know what they say: if you cant beat
them, join them!
KS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS..
JUDGES
OLIVE ODYSSEY
Andrea Camilleri, Carlo Lucarelli and

Giancarlo de Cataldo, Maclehose Press,
12.99 (hardback)
Three short crime stories on offer here
from three of Italys most respected
and prolic writers of crime ction,
including tales of assassinations and
the questionable motives of a small
Sicilian town. Dont let the small
size of the stories fool you though,
because each one will reel you in, and
packs a bigger punch than the last.
Julie Angus, Greystone Books,

15.43 (hardback)
Olives are so Italian, but they did not
originate there. Canadian-born author
Julie Angus ventures to Syria, making
various stops along the way, to trace
her Syrian familys roots in olive oil.
With her husband at her side, she
begins in Spain and covers a vast
amount of territory as she sets out to
prove the healthy benets of olive oil
in our diets.
MARCO POLO ITALIAN PHRASEBOOK
Marco Polo, 6.99 (paperback)
When we venture to lands unknown, the last thing we want is to be lost in

translation. But fear not, because this Marco Polo phrasebook will have you
covered for everything you could possibly need, from asking people to take your
photo to enquiring about pharmaceutical items. Hopefully youll never have
to use the phrase La mia valigia stata danneggiata (my suitcase has been
damaged) but just in case, Marco Polo has got your back. And if you like to
express your frustration verbally, there is even a handy guide on curse words for
you to really get your point across! The cheat sheet at the front of the book can
be cut out and tucked into your pocket, ready to be pulled out at a moments
notice when you need to ask for the bill or nd out if anybody speaks English.
As far as translation guides go, you cant do much better than this. Its small,
but compact and wont leave you stranded on your next trip to Italy.
AL DENTE: A HISTORY OF FOOD IN ITALY
Fabio Parasecoli, Reaktion Books, 25 (hardback)

In this fascinating guide, Fabio Parasecoli takes us through the history
of Italys relationship with food, right back to the Romans, discussing
the origins of olive oil and the importance of sun-ripened tomatoes.
He even looks at men and womens relationships with Italian food,
discussing their roles in its production and consumption, which may
raise a few eyebrows among modern readers. By no means is this the
sort of book that you can pick up and glance at when you get the
chance, but the stories that are interwoven into the pages are essential
reads for any budding connoisseur or general foodie.
.
ALASTAIR SAWDAYS SPECIAL
PLACES TO STAY IN ITALY
Alastair Sawday, 15.99 (paperback)
Throughout Alastair Sawdays portfolio
of properties to stay in Italy, not
one has been included that he hasnt
personally inspected and stayed in
himself, giving you only the best
places to choose from. With budgets
to suit every person, this fantastic
guide will guarantee you nd that
special somewhere to call home, even
if only for a few nights.
GETTING THERE
ITALY FLIGHT GUIDE

Let Italia!s ight guide take the hard work out of planning your trip. Just pick your ideal
destination from our handy map of Italy and locate the corresponding number from the list
DESTINATION
ORIGIN
OPERATOR
DESTINATION
ORIGIN
OPERATOR
O Alghero
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Bristol
Cork
Dublin
East Midlands
Knock Ireland West
Leeds Bradford
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Bristol
Dublin
Edinburgh
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Stansted
Manchester
LDN Stansted
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
Ryanair
Thomson
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
easyJet
BA
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Meridiana, Ryanair
easyJet
Thomson
Aer Lingus
AirOne BA, easyJet,
Thomson, Norwegian
easyJet
easyJet, Thomson
Ryanair
Ryanair
Flybe
Vueling
BA, CityJet
BA
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, Flybe
Aer Lingus
easyJet
O
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Liverpool
LDN Gatwick
Air France, Alitalia

easyJet
Alitalia, BA
easyJet
BA, Flybe
Thomson
easyJet
Aer Lingus
Thomson
easyJet
Thomson
easyJet
BA, easyJet, Meridiana,
Thomson
Monarch
easyJet
Thomson, Monarch
Thomson
easyJet
Jet2
easyJet, Meridiana
easyJet
Ryanair
AirOne, easyJet
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
easyJet
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2, Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair, Jet2
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
BA
easyJet
Ryanair
Jet2
Jet2
2 Ancona
O
3 Bari
O
4 Bergamo
O
5 Bologna
O
6 Brindisi
O
7 Cagliari
O
8 Catania
O
9 Comiso
O
10 Florence
O
11
O
Genoa
12
O
13
O
Lamezia
Milan
LDN Luton
Manchester
Dublin
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
LDN Gatwick
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Dublin
Edinburgh
13
Milan (continued)
14 Naples
O

15 Olbia
O
16 Palermo
O
17 Parma
O
18 Perugia
O
19 Pescara
O
20 Pisa
O
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Bristol
Leeds Bradford
LDN Gatwick
LDN Luton
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Belfast
Bournemouth
Bristol
Cork
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow Prestwick
Leeds Bradford
Liverpool
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Every effort is made to ensure that the above information about ights between the UK, Ireland and Italy is correct at the time of going to press, but do check before you plan your trip
13
O
O
24
4
O
26
O
17
O
11
O
25
O
23
O
5
O
10
20 O
O
2
O
O
18
.1(&(-
./$1 3.1
21 1NLD
O
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Glasgow Prestwick
Leeds Bradford
Monarch
easyJet
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
Jet2
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Manchester
Birmingham
LDN Stansted
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Leeds Bradford
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
Alitalia
BA, easyJet, Norwegian
BA, Alitalia
Monarch
Ryanair
Jet2, Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
Ryanair
Monarch
Ryanair
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Jet2, Ryanair
BA
BA, easyJet, Monarch,
Thomson
BA
easyJet
easyJet
Ryanair
easyJet, Jet2, Monarch,
Thomson
Jet2
Aer Lingus
Jet2
Jet2
BA, easyJet, Monarch
Monarch
Flybe
22
O
23
O
24
O
25
O
3Q@O@MH
3QHDRSD
3TQHM
5DMHBD3QDUHRN
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Southend
LDN Stansted
Manchester
26
O
5DQNM@
Newcastle
Dublin
Edinburgh
Leeds Bradford
LDN Gatwick
Manchester
Southampton
19
O
21
O
15
O
1
O
3
O
14
O
6
O
7
O
12
O
O
22
O
16
8
O
9
O
AIRLINES
q DQ+HMFTRVVV @DQKHMFTR BNL
0870 876 5000
q HQ.MDVVV kX@HQNMD BNL
+39 091 255 1047
q KHS@KH@VVV @KHS@KH@ BNL
0870 225 5000
qALHA@AXVVV ALHA@AX BNL
0905 828 2828
q!QHSHRG HQV@XRVVV A@ BNL
0844 493 0787
q"HSX)DSVVV BHSXIDS BNL
0871 666 5050
qD@RX)DSVVV D@RXIDS BN TJ
0905 821 0905
q%KXADVVV kXAD BNL
0871 700 2000
q)DSVVV IDS BNL
0871 226 1737
q+TESG@MR@VVV KTESG@MR@ BNL
0871 945 9747
q,NM@QBG HQKHMDR
VVV LNM@QBG BN TJ
0871 940 5040
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VVV LDQHCH@M@ HS
0871 222 9319
q-NQVDFH@M HQKHMDR
VVV MNQVDFH@M BNL
0843 378 0888
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q&K@RFNV/QDRSVHBJ0871 223 0700
q*MNBJ+353 94 936 8100
q+DDCR!Q@CENQC0871 288 2288
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q+#-"HSX020 7646 0088
q+#-&@SVHBJ0844 335 1802
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q+#-+TSNM01582 405100
q+#-2NTSGDMC01702 538500
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q,@MBGDRSDQ0871 271 0711
q-DVB@RSKD0871 882 1121
q2NTSG@LOSNM0844 481 7777
Always check with your airline
before planning your ight.
Some of these operators may charge a premium rate for phone bookings. Check before you call.
H2SNBJOGNSN
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Properties in
Venice & theVeneto

Find your dream home with Properties in Italy
Full assistance with legal advice & restoration
English speaking staff

email: info@propertiesinitaly.net
Properties
& holidays
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www.propertiesinitaly.net
www.reyitaly.co.uk
FOR SALE
Gravedona
New residence with swimming pool.
Only 400 metres from lake, 1-2 bedrooms.
Sunny private garden and terrace.
Great investment.
PRICE 160,000.00
Immobiliare Porticciolo Domaso
info@immobiliareporticciolo.com
44(0)7837509292 / 0039 320 691 5809
Dulux
Weathershield
white masonry
paint available
in Italy
Firefly
De Benetti & Co.
italian & international lawyers

professional legal advice in :
Property Acquisitions & Resales

Wills & Inheritance
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Studio legale Avvocato De Benetti
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Please email for

prices & delivery
www.debenettilaw.com
weathershieldtoyou@gmail.com
email: info@debenettilaw.com
Lovely village house in Piedmont,

Italy. Fully renovated character
property on edge of village, walking
distance village cafe and shop.
Four/ve bedrooms,
three bathrooms, walled garden,
covered terraces, views, central
heating, woodburners.
Perfect family or holiday house.
Full information
www.fontanilehouse.com
or carriejordan1@me.com
Or find me on eBay
Complete pool and garden maintenance services.

Property Maintenance and Management.
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FOR MORE INFORMATION www.pugliapoolsandgardens.com
or call Chris on 0039 393 215 8114
Buying a property in Puglia?

Visit us as casapuglia.com. We act
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gardens
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Design, Construction and
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Outstanding personal service,
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THE FINAL WORD
My Italia!
Charlotte Jaconelli and partner Jonathan

Antoine nished as runners-up in Britains Got
Talent in 2012. What is she up to now?
DO YOU EVER WAKE UP THINKING IT MUST ALL BE A DREAM?
Oh denitely, thats the only way you can describe it. No

matter how much experience you have and how much work
you put into it you can never get used to what youre doing.
WHEN DID YOU FIRST DISCOVER YOU COULD SING LIKE THAT?
Ive always gone to theatre school on a Saturday since I was

four years old, but I didnt really start to sing until I was 12
years old when I took singing lessons, which was when I rst
realised that I wanted to concentrate on my singing. Then
about a year later I started performing in my local area.
YOUR SOLO ALBUM IS OUT IN JUNE, CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT WHAT TO EXPECT?
Its an eclectic sort of grouping. I wanted to keep hold of what I did with Johnny
and still have that classical crossover. Ive also included some bigger pop ballads.
HAS GOING SOLO ENABLED YOU TO PUT YOUR OWN STAMP ON THIS ALBUM?
Its enabled me to pick songs that mean something to me and are my

favourite kind of songs to sing, so I have been able to put more of an
emotional connection with the songs.
WHICH PART OF ITALY IS YOUR ITALIAN SIDE OF THE FAMILY FROM?
I am Italian on my Dads side, who is from Cambiago, a tiny little village in

northern Italy, northeast of Milan. I cant speak uent Italian but I can get by,
and its a perfect excuse to always eat pizza and pasta!
DO YOU VISIT ITALY OFTEN? WHICH ARE YOUR FAVOURITE AREAS?
I went to Italy every year on holiday until I was 14 and after that Ive been
more or less most years but not so much recently because of work. But it was
nice that when I nished Britains Got Talent, me and Johnny got to lm a
documentary in Italy and I went to places that I havent been to before. But I did
go on holiday there with my family last year in the summer, which was the rst
family holiday Ive had since the show nished. My favourite areas are Rimini,
because its where my family have always gone on holidays, and Milan.
OUR READERS ARE OBVIOUSLY BIG FANS OF ITALY. WHAT IS IT ABOUT ITALY
THAT APPEALS TO YOU AND WHY DO YOU THINK PEOPLE LIKE IT SO MUCH?
You can go somewhere and you always guarantee youre going to bump into a
nice person. Its a good atmosphere wherever you go and its very open, so you
can always have a friendly conversation, which I dont think you get in England
because its very populated and there are so many different people. But Italy has
a relaxed environment and I love it. Plus, you can always guarantee great food!
DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS TO VISIT ITALY IN THE NEAR FUTURE?
I have no plans yet but I would love to go back to Italy later this year,
hopefully for a holiday later in the summer.
Charlottes debut solo album Solitaire is released on 9 June 2014
through Sony Classical
WHATS
YOUR
STORY?
If you want to
tell the story
of your
relationship
with Italy
whatever it
is get in
touch with us!
Send emails to
italia@anthempublishing.
com with the
subject line My
Italia and a brief
description of
your story.
Since becoming
runner-up on
Britains Got Talent
in series 6, Charlotte
has been busy, and
has now gone solo,
with her rst album
coming out in June
Romantik Hotel Turm, Vls am Schlern
Arrive, feel well, enjoy

On the banks of a lake, high up in the mountains, on the shores of the sea, near the bustling village square, in the
middle of the green woods The location of the more than 200 privately-run, historical Romantik Hotels & Restaurants
in 10 European countries 22 of them in Italy is always something extraordinary. Regional specialities, typical local
architecture, as well as a distinctive climate and unique qualities of the people shape the character of each hotel
and restaurant just as the individuality of the hosts. Spa hotels in 5 countries and numerous restaurants awarded
with a Michelin star are the epitome of well-being and indulgence on the highest level.
RO M AN TI K
WELLNESSSPA
2014
ROMANTIK
2014
Get your Romantik

Hotel Guide 2014
online now!
www.romantikhotels.com

ItMa 2014 07

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ITALIA!

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