FilamentYarnsandTexturing

Slide1

FilamentYarnsandTexturing

Thevastscopeoffilamentyarntypes,classifications,andendusesarediscussedinthismodule.Specialattentionispaidtoproductionstepsand
thevariouswaystotexturefilamentyarns.Compositeyarntypesarediscussedinadditiontohowthequalityoffilamentyarnsisevaluated.Finally,
importantfabricconstructionanddesignfactorsinfluencingtheoptimaluseofcertaintypesoffilamentyarnsareaddressed.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide2

ALittleHistory
Rayonwasthefirstmanmadefilamentfiber,developedin
the1890s.
Nylonwasfirstproducedinthe1940sandsoonfollowedby
thepolyestersandpolyacrylics.
Polyolefins andpolyurethaneswereproducedduringthe
1950s.
Today,almostallmanufacturedfiberscanbeusedin
filamentforminfilamentyarns.
Acrylicandmodacrylic areexceptions theyaretypically
usedinstapleform.
Filamentyarnsarecomposedofoneormanycontinuous
filaments.
Filamentyarnsareassembledwithorwithouttwist.

Rayonwasthefirstmanmadefilamentfiber,developedinthe1890s.Nylonfiberwasfirstproducedinthe1940s,whichwassoonfollowedbythe
polyestersandpolyacrylics.Duringthe1950s,thepolyolefinsandpolyurethaneswereproduced.Today,almostallmanufacturedfibersmaybe
usedasfilamentsinfilamentyarns.Acrylicandmodacrylicareexceptionstheyareusedtypicallyinstapleform.Filamentyarnsarecomposedof
oneormanycontinuousfilamentsandareassembledwithorwithouttwist.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide3

FilamentYarnUses

CarpetingandCarpetBacking
IndustrialTextileProducts

ApparelFabrics

tirecordandtirefabric
seatbelts
industrialwebbingandtape
Tents
fishinglineandnets
Rope
tapereinforcement
womenssheerhosiery
Underwear
Nightwear
ankletsandsocks
varietyofapparelfabrics

InteriorandHouseholdProducts

bedticking
furnitureupholstery
Curtains
Bedspreads
Sheets
Draperies

Filamentyarnsareusedheavilyincarpetingandcarpetbacking.Becauseofhighstrengthrequirementsinmanyindustrialtextileproducts,
filamentyarnsareusedinawiderangeofproducts,asseeninthisslide.Manyapparelfabricssuchasunderwear,nightwear,outerwear,socks,
andhosieryalsocontainfilamentyarns.Manyfilamentyarnsarealsofoundininteriorandhouseholdproductssuchasbedticking,furniture
upholstery,curtains,bedspreads,sheets,anddraperies.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide4

FilamentYarnClassifications

Filamentyarnscanbeclassifiedasflatortextured.Flatfilamentyarnshavealltheirfilamentsalignedparalleltotheyarnaxis.Texturedyarnshave
individualfilamentslyinginacurled,twisted,snarled,orcrimpedconfiguration.Themostcommonmethodsoftexturingarefalsetwist,airjet,and
stufferbox.Thesemethodswillbediscussedlaterinthemodule.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide5

YarnDefinitions
Flatcontinuousfilamentyarnsareformedusingverysmooth
andstraightcontinuousfilaments.Canbemultifilamentor
monofilament.
Texturedcontinuousfilamentyarnsareformedusing
continuousfilamentsthathavebeenmodifiedtogivebulk
and/orstretchproperties.
Spunyarnsareformedusingshortornoncontinuousfibers.
Shortstaplespunyarnsutilizefiberslessthan2.5incheslong.
Longstaplespunyarnsutilizefibersfrom2.5upto18inches
inlengthinsomecases.

Flatcontinuousfilamentyarnscanbemonofilament,whichcontainonlyonesinglecontinuousfilament.Fishinglineisagoodexampleofa
monofilamentyarn.Flatfilamentyarnscanalsobemultifilament,withtheyarncomposedofmultiplefilamentsbroughttogethertoformone
continuousstrandoffilaments.

Texturedcontinuousfilamentyarnshavethefilamentsmodifiedinsomewaytogivebulkand/orspecificstretchproperties.

Spunyarnsareformedusingshortornoncontinuousfibers.Theyarnisheldtogetherbytwistingthefibersinordertoproducenecessaryfiberto
fibercohesionandadequateyarnstrength.

Shortstaplespunyarnsutilizefiberslessthan2.5inchesinstaplelength.

Longstaplespunyarnsutilizefibersfrom2.5upto18inchesinlength.However,themostcommonrangeofstaplelengthis2.5to6inches.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide6

FlatMultifilamentYarns

VerySmoothSurface

RoundCrosssectionalshapedfiberstypically

Produceverycompact,smoothyarns

EndUsesInclude:
Seatbelts,tirecord,andtirecordfabrics
Apparelwithcloselypackedyarnsforreducedairandwatervaporpermeability

Havelittleelongationdependentuponfibertype

Flatmultifilamentyarnscreateaverysmoothfabricsurface.Roundcrosssectionalshapedfibersaretypicallyused,producingverycompactand
smoothyarns.Endusesfortheseyarnsincludeseatbelts,tirecord,andtirecordfabrics.Apparelfabricsneedingcloselypackedyarnsforreduced
airandwatervaporpermeabilityalsouseflatmultifilamentyarns.Thistypeoffilamentyarnhaslittleelongation,dependinguponthefibertype
thatisused.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide7

TexturedFilamentYarn

Termgiventofilamentyarnwhichhasanoticeablygreatervolumethan
conventionalyarnofsimilarfilamentcountandlineardensity.
Theyarnshavearelativelylowelasticstretchunlessspecificallydeveloped
forstretch.
Sufficientlystabletowithstandwetfinishing.
Apparentvolumeisachievedthroughphysical,chemical,orheat
treatments,oracombinationofthese.

Texturedfilamentyarnshaveanoticeablygreatervolumethanconventionalfilamentyarnsofsimilarfilamentcountandlineardensity.Theyarns
havearelativelylowelasticstretch,butcanbedevelopedspecificallytoimpartstretch.Theyarnissufficientlystabletowithstandwetfinishing.
Theapparentvolumeoftheyarnisachievedthroughphysical,chemical,orheattreatments,oracombinationofthese.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide8

FlatFilamentYarnFabric

Thefabricshowncontainsflatfilamentyarn.Thefabriclusterishighandthefabricisverysmoothandtightlyformedgivingitagoodcovering
property.Noticethattheindividualyarnsaremultifilament.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide9

TexturedYarnFabric

Thefabricshownwasmadeusingtexturedfilamentyarn,givingthefabricalowerlusteranddifferenttexture.Noticehowtheindividualyarnsare
bulkierandmoreopeninstructure.Thefabrictendstobemoreabsorbentandsofter,sinceitcontainstexturedyarnratherthanflatfilamentyarn.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide10

SpunYarnFabric

Noticethefuzzysurfacecreatedbythehairinessofthespunyarnsinthisspunyarnfabric.Thelusterissubduedandthefabrichasasofthand,
goodabsorbency,andcomfortfeatures.Noticealsohoweachindividualyarnistwistedtoprovidenecessarystrengthtotheyarnandfabric.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide11

SpunYarnFabric

Thefabricinthisphotographwasformedbyweavingfilamentyarnsinthewarpdirectionandspunyarnsandnoveltyyarnsinthefillingdirection.
Noticethefilamentyarnsareverysmoothandlustrouswhilethespunyarnscreateamoredullappearance.Thenoveltyslubtypespunyarns
produceavariablelookacrossthefabricwidth.Therandomslubsareveryvisibleineachindividualyarn.However,theslubyarnisonlyrandomly
used,notineveryfillingyarninsertion.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide12

YarnIrregularities
FilamentYarns minorirregularitieswillshowup
asdefectsduetochangesinluster,dyepickup,
irregularyarntwistoryarnspacing.Variationsin
thedegreeofdrawingduringmanufacturingwill
showupasdifferencesindyeabsorptionand
residualruptureelongation.
SpunYarns arelessuniformandcanaffordmore
irregularitieswithoutresultantfabricsbeing
defective.

Filamentyarnsarelessforgivingwhenitcomestoyarnirregularities.Evenminorirregularitiescanshowupasdefectsduetochangesinluster,dye
pickup,irregularyarntwistoryarnspacingintheresultingfabrics.Variabledrawratiosand/orvariableyarntensionsduringyarnandfabric
processingcancreatefabricstreaksduetodifferencesindyeabsorptionandresidualruptureelongation.Unlikespunyarns,theinternalmolecular
structureoffilamentyarnscanbealtered,leadingtoirreversibleyarnvariationsandoffqualityfabrics.Spunyarnirregularitiesarelessuniform
andaremoreforgiving,whencomparedtofilamentyarnirregularities.Beingproducedfromstapleorshortfibers,spunyarnshaveanatural
unevennessandwillpullapartbeforeanymoleculardamagecanbedonetothefibersintheyarnbyvariabletensionlevelsduringfabric
processing.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide13

FilamentYarnIdentification

Therearevariousfactorsusedindescribingandidentifyingfilamentyarns,whicharelistedinthisslide.Somewillbeelaboratedoninmoredetail
insubsequentslidesbecauseoftheirimportanceasfarasinfluencingfabricproperties.Manyofthefactorsincludenumericaldescriptions.The
yarnnumberiswrittenasanumberfollowedbyaslashandthenthenumberoffilamentsintheyarn.A100/1yarnusingthedeniernumbering
systemdescribestheyarnasbeing100denier,asitsyarnnumber,andtheyarncontainsonlyonefilament,makingitamonofilamentyarn.A
150/34yarndescribestheyarnasbeing150denierandcontaining34filaments,makingitamultifilamentyarn.A400/68descriptiondenotesa400
denieryarncontaining68filaments.Variousfibercrosssectionsareavailableinfilamentyarnsthatinfluencethelusterandfiberstiffness.To
determinethedenieroftheindividualfilaments(dpf),dividetheyarndenierbythenumberoffilamentsintheyarn.Forexample,thedpfofa
1460/188yarnis7.77.Thesurfaceofafilamentyarnhasaspinfinishthatisaverylowpercentageoftheweightoftheyarn.Itisusuallysometype
oflubricantoilwithantistatadditives.Lusteroffilamentyarnscanbecontrolled,whichtypicallyisaccomplishedbyaddingtitaniumdioxidetothe
polymerbeforeextrusion.Asmallamountoftwistisaddedtofilamentyarnstokeepthefilamentsintactandfromseparatingwhichwouldleadto
filamentbreakage.Airentanglementortwistsubstitutecanaccomplishthisatlesscost.Thefirstdigitindescribingayarnrelatestothenumber
ofplies.A1/70/48denotesasinglesyarnwhile2/220/110denotesatwoplyyarn.The2/220/110yarnwillhaveanoveralldenierof440and
overallfilamentcountof220.Someapplicationsoffilamentyarnsrequiretighterandsmootherfabricsusingflatfilamentyarnswhileotherfabrics
requiretexturedyarnswithmorebulkandvolume.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide14

FilamentYarnNumberingSystems
Denier anumberindicatingtheweightingramsof
9,000metersofaspecificyarn
Tex anumberindicatingtheweightingramsof1,000
metersofaspecificyarn
Decitex anumberindicatingtheweightingramsof
10,000metersofaspecificyarn
Note:Thesenumbersrepresenttheyarnlineardensity.
Thenumbersaresometimescalledtheyarncount.These
aredirectnumberingsystems,meaningthatthe
representativeyarnnumberswillbecomelargerasthe
yarncrosssectionalsizeincreases.

Inthedeniersystemofyarnnumberingthedeniervalueequatestotheweightingramsof9,000metersofthegivenyarn.Texisayarnnumber
indicatingtheweightingramsof1,000metersofaspecificyarn.Decitexisayarnnumberindicatingtheweightingramsof10,000metersofa
specificyarn.Notethatthesenumbersrepresenttheyarnlineardensity.Thenumbersaresometimescalledtheyarncount.Thesearedirect
numberingsystems,meaningthatheavieryarnswillhavehigheryarnnumbersandfineryarnswillhaveloweryarnnumbers.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide15

GlassFiberYarnNumberingSystems
TwoSystemsGenerallyUsed:
1.TexSystemaspreviouslydefined
example:a68yarndesignationnumberwouldrepresenta
yarnweightof68gramsper1,000metersofyarn
2.100yardcutsperpound
example:a75yarndesignationnumberwouldrepresent
7500yardsperpound
Note:Bothsystemsareindustryrecognizedidentifications

Texisthenumberingsystemgenerallyusedwhenworkingwithglassyarns.However,onsomeoccasions100yardcutsperpoundisusedto
designatetheyarnnumber.Forexample,a75yarnnumberdesignationmeansthatittakes7500yardsofaglassyarntoweighonepound.As
noted,bothsystemsareindustryrecognized.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide16

MultipleNumberingSystems

WorstedCountYarnNumber(Nw) 40
EnglishCottonCountYarnNumber(Ne) 26.6
DenierYarnNumber 200
TexYarnNumber 22.2
Decitex YarnNumber 222

Becausetherearenumerousnumberingsystemsaroundtheworld,therecanbeagoodchanceofrecommendingthewrongyarnproductwhen
tryingtoreplaceanexistingyarnortryingtodevelopafabricsimilartoanexistingfabric.Thefollowingexampleisanillustrationofthisproblem:

Observethedifferentyarncountslisted,eachoneusingadifferentnumberingsystem,whilerepresentinganequivalentyarnsizeoryarnthickness.

WorstedCountYarnNumber(Nw)40
EnglishCottonCountYarnNumber(Ne)26.6
DenierYarnNumber200
TexYarnNumber22.2
DecitexYarnNumber222

Imaginemeetingwithacustomeranddiscussingtheuseofatexturedpolyesteryarnasasubstitutefora20/1(Ne)yarnthatiscurrentlybeing
used.IfoneassumesthecustomerisusingEnglishcottoncount,whichisverycommon,arecommendationofa266deniertexturedyarnwouldbe
made.However,ifthecustomerisaworstedwoolfabricproducer,theyarnyouneedtorecommendisactually398denier.Suchalargedifference,
basedonthesedifferentyarnsizes,wouldaffectfabricweight,drape,andsimilarproperties.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide17

YarnCountConversions

CommonNumberingConversionstoDenier:
Denier=5315 Ne
Denier=9xTex
Denier=.9xDecitex
Denier=7972 Nw

Showninthisslidearecommonconversionfactorsthatallowonetoconvertfromoneyarnnumberingsystemtoanother,inordertoavoida
problemliketheonejustillustrated.Ifitisdesiredtodeterminethedenierequivalentofa20/1cottoncountyarn,dividetheconstant5315by20,
whichequatesto266denier.However,togetanequivalentdenierassumingtheyarnisa1/20worstedcount,dividetheconstant7972by20,
whichequatesto398denier.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide18

YarnDenierExamples

Theyarndeniervaluerepresentstherelativethicknessoftheyarnoryarnsize.IntheUnitedStates,denierisusedforallfilamentyarnsexcept
glass.Itisalsousedformanufacturedstaplefiberusedinstaplespunyarns.AlmostallothercountriesusetheTexnumberingsystem.Thesizeof
theyarndeterminesspecificfabricpropertiessuchasweight,coverortheabilitytoseethroughthefabric,strength,andappearancetonamea
few.Onemustrememberthatalargerdeniervaluerepresentsathickerorheavieryarnandasmallerdeniervaluerepresentsathinnerorfiner
yarn.Itisimportantthatyarndenierremainsuniform.Otherwisefabricdefectssuchaswavyfillinginwovenfabricsandbarreinknitfabricscan
occur.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide19

FilamentProperties

Thereisnonarrationforthisslide.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide20

DPFandItsInfluence
HigherDPFleadstostifferandcoarserfabric.
LowerDPFleadstosofterandmoreflexible
fabric.
Forasilklikefabric,lowDPFwouldbethechoice.
Foratentfabric,ahighDPFwouldbepreferred.
LowDPFyarnsaremoreexpensiveandshouldbe
usedinopenfabricconstructionstogetthefull
benefit.
WiththeuseoflowDPFyarns,lessyarncanbe
usedwhichcanbeasavingsfactor.

DenierperfilamentorDPF,isthedenierofeachindividualfilamentinthetotalyarnbundle.Assumingallthefilamentsarethesamedenier,a160
denieryarncontaining80filamentswouldhaveaDPFof2.ThehighertheDPF,thestifferandcoarsertheresultantfabricandthelowertheDPF
thesofterandmoreflexiblethefabric.Ifasilklikefabricispreferred,alowDPFyarnwouldbeused.Ifatentlikefabricisrequired,ahighDPF
yarnwouldbeused.Forthegreatestadvantage,lowdpfyarns,beingmoreexpensive,shouldbeusedinopenfabricconstructionswherethe
filamentscanblossomorexpandtotheirfullbulk.Withtheuseoflowdpfyarns,lessyarncanbeusedwhichcanbeasavingsfactor.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide21

CrossSectionandLuster
Someyarnscontainfilamentwithdifferent
crosssections.
Crosssectionaffectsthelusteroftheyarnas
iteitherdiffusesorincreasesthelight
reflection.
Crosssectioncanaffectcertainfiberfunctions
suchasmoisturetransport.
Crosssectioncanaffectfabrichandand
appearanceofthepileinplushfabrics.

Filamentfibercrosssectionandlusterhaveacloserelationshiprelativetotheireffectonthefabric.Someyarnsconsistofacertainnumberof
filamentswithonecrosssectionandotherfilamentswithanother.Thisconditionisnormallynotedinthenameattachedtotheparticularyarn.
Crosssectionhashadaprimaryfunctionofeffectingthelusteroftheyarnasitappearsinthefabricandthecrosssectionisintendedtodiffuseor
increasethelightreflectionasseeninamirroreffect.Thereareanumberofspecialcrosssections,suchaschanneled,whicharedesignedtogive
theyarnandresultingfabriccertaincapabilitiessuchasmoisturetransport.Othercrosssectionssuchasribbonshaped,canaffectthefabrichand
andappearanceofthepileinaplushfabric.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide22

CrossSectionsandEffectonFabric

Themostcommoncrosssectionusedisroundwhichdiffuseslittleifanylightreflectiveeffect.Octolobal,witheightsidestothefilamentcross
sectionhasthegreatestdiffusingeffect.Thecrosssectionalsohasaneffectontheflexibilityofthefabricwithafabricusingtrilobalfiberhaving
lessflexibilitythanafabricusingroundoroctolobalfiber.Fibercrosssectionalsoaffectsfabriccoverortheabilityoflighttoshowthroughthe
fabric.Roundfiberswillbunchclosertogetherinafabricandproducepoorercovercomparedtotrilobalandoctolobalfiberswhichdonotpackas
closetogetherinthefabric,spreadingoutmoreandcoveringmoreareainthefabric.Showninthisslideareseveraltypesofcrosssectionsand
theiruses.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide23

CrossSectionsandFunctions

Showninthisslideareseveraltypesofcrosssectionsandtheiruses.

Hollowforinsulationandwicking
Clovershapedforbulk
Octolobalforglitterreduction
Multichannelforbulkymicrodenieryarns
Trilobalforluster
ModificationRatio,alsoknownasaspectratiochangingorvaryingtheinnerandouterdiametersofatrilobalfiber

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide24

YarnLuster
Referredtointermssuchasbright,semidull,dull,or
fulldull.
Mostcommondullingagentusedistitaniumdioxide
withmorebeingaddedtoreducetheyarnluster.
Moredullingagentyieldsaharsherfabricwithmore
frictionorabrasionabilityonthesurfaceofthefabric.
Combiningayarnwithalowamountofdullingagent
witharoundcrosssectionyougetametalliclike
appearance.
Combiningayarnwithalowamountofdullingagent
withatrilobal crosssectionyougetafabricwitha
lustrouseffectsimilartosilk.

Thelusteroftheyarnbundleisdifferentfromthereflectivenatureoftheyarnaspreviouslymentioned.Thelusterreferstotheactualphysical
stateofthefilamentsand/oryarnbundle.Thelusteriscommonlyreferredtointermssuchasbright,semidull,dull,orfulldull.InEurope,theterm
matteisusedinsteadofdull.Themostcommondullingagentusedistitaniumdioxide.Themoreaddedtothepolymer,thedullertheluster.The
moredullingagentusedtheharsherthesurfaceofthefabric.Thiseffectalsoleadstoahigherfrictiononthesurfaceofthefabric.Whenayarn
withalowamountofdullingagentiscombinedwitharoundcrosssectiontheresultisametalliclikeappearanceoftheyarninthefabric.
Combiningayarnwithalowamountofdullingagentwithatrilobalcrosssection,resultsinafabricwithalustrouseffectsimilartosilk.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide25

FabricwithHighandLowLusterYarns

Occasionallyhighandlowlusterfilamentyarnscanbeusedincombinationwitheachothertoproduceadesiredappearanceinafabric.For
example,thefabricshownhasadiamondshapeddobbydesign.Thewarpyarnsareofhigherluster,andbypermittingsomeoftheseyarnsto
floatinthemiddleofthediamonddesign,aspecialeffectisproduced.Allthefillingyarnsareofdullerlusterwhichmakesthewarpyarnsstand
out.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide26

FilamentYarnManufacturingSteps

FilamentExtrusion(MonoorMultifilament)
FilamentDrawing(FOY POY UOY)
ProducerYarnPackaging
ThrowingandTwisting
Repackaging
MultiplePlyingofYarns
Texturing
CombiningFilamentandSpunYarns
HeatSettingYarns

Toproducefilamentyarns,thefilamentsareextrudedinmonoormultifilamentform.Beingveryunstableatthispoint,thefilamentsmustbe
drawn(elongatedorstretched)toacertaindegree,dependingupontheirenduse.Atthispointtheyarniswoundontosuitablepackagesfor
subsequentprocessing.Yarnmaythengotoathrowsterfortwisting,repackagingand/orplying.Yarnscanremaininflatfilamentformorbe
textured.Thefilamentyarns,flatortextured,maygoontofurtherstepswheretheyareformedintosometypeofcompositeyarn.Common
compositeyarnsaresingleanddoublecoveredyarnsandcorespunyarns.Filamentyarnscontainingthermoplasticfiberscanbeheatsetto
differentdegreestoproduceyarnswithhighstretch,highbulkorboth.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide27

FilamentExtrusion

Atextrusion,apolymersolutionisforcedthroughtheholesofashowerheadlikedevicecalledaspinnerette.Theextrusionprocessiscalled
spinning.Thethreetypicalmethodsofspinningaremelt,dry,andwet.Meltspinninginvolvesmeltingpolymerchipspriortoextrusion.Dry
spinninginvolvesusingasolventtodissolvethesolidpolymermaterialandthenresolidifyingthepolymerbymeansofevaporationofthesolvent
oncetheyarnisformed.Wetspinninginvolvessolidifyingtheextrudedpolymerinawetbath.Spinningmethodsarefiberspecific.Nylon,polyester,
andolefinfibersaretypicallymeltspun.Somerayontypefibersaredryspunandsomearewetspun.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide28

EngineeredYarns
Averyconsistentyarnisformedthrough
extrusion.
Thespinnerette holesizedeterminesthe
filamentdenier.
Thenumberofspinnerette holesdetermines
thefilamentcount.
Thespinnerette holeshapedeterminesthe
fibercrosssectionalshape.

Averyconsistentanduniformyarnisformedthroughtheprocessofextrusion.ThespinnerretteholesizedeterminesthefilamentdenierorDPF.
Thenumberofspinneretteholesdeterminesthefilamentcountandtheholeshapedeterminesthefibercrosssectionalshape.Allofthese
parameterscanbealteredtoproduceadifferenttypeofyarnwithdifferentproperties.Therefore,filamentyarnscanbeengineeredtosuitdesired
propertiesneededinthefinaluseoftheyarn.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide29

SlitFilmYarnExtrusion
Yarnofaflat,tapelikecharacterproducedby
slittinganextrudedfilm.
Theextrudedfilmisusuallyapolyolefin.
Theextrudedfilmisdrawnbydrawrollers.
Thefilmthengoesthroughaslitter/embosser.
Sometimestheyarnsaredrawnafterslittingto
formthedesiredwidthandthickness.
Theslityarnsarethenplacedonaspool.
Spoolsofyarnthengotoweavingtoprovide
fillinginputortowarpingtoformaloombeam
forweaving.

Inadditiontoextrudingfilamentsforyarnformation,apolymerfilmcanbeextrudedandthencutintonarrowstripstoformwhatisknownasslit
filmyarn.Aslitfilmyarnisatypeoftapeyarn.Theextrudedfilmisusuallyapolyolefin.Theextrudedfilmisfirstdrawnbydrawrollersandthen
passesthroughaslitter/embosser.Attimestheyarnsaredrawnafterslittingtoformthedesiredwidthandthickness.Theribbonlikestructure
producesayarnthatmaybe.003inch(0.008cm.)thickandabout0.25inch(0.6cm.)wide.Usuallytheydonothaveacylindricalshapeunless
twisted.Theslityarnsarethenplacedonaspool.Spoolsofyarnthengotoweavingtoprovidefillinginputortowarpingtoformaloombeamfor
weaving.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide30

SlitFilmYarnFabric

Noticetheflatstructureoftheyarninthephotographandthewidththeyoccupyinthefabric.Manyofthesetypefabricsareusedindustcovers
forfurnitureandingeotextileapplications.Theymaybeseeninfabricssurroundingconstructionareasforthepurposeofcontrollingrunoffand
erosion.Otherendusessuchasinteriorfurnishingincludeupholsteryfabrics,wallcovering,andprimarybackingfortuftedcarpets.Theyarealso
usedinpackaging,bags,sacks,andbalewrappers,aswellasinartificialturf.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide31

ConversionofTowtoStapleFibbers
FilamentsfromMultipleSpinnerettes Forma
Tow
TowIsCutintoShortorStapleFibers
StapleFibersProduceSpunYarns
ManmadeStapleFibersCanBeBlendedwith
NaturalStapleFibers

Itisworthmentioningagainthatmanmadestaplefibersfoundinmanyspunyarnsoriginallywereintheformofcontinuousfilamentsbefore
goingthroughacuttingprocess.Alargenumberofextrudedfilamentsformabundleoffiberscalledtow.Thetowiscutintostaplefibersandthen
thestaplefiberisformedintoaspunyarnasa100%yarnorblendedwithotherstaplemanmadefibersorstaplenaturalfibers.Aspreviously
mentioned,themanmadefiberweightisdenotedbythefiberdenier.

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FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide32

DrawingAnimation

Theyarnshowninthisanimationhasfilamentswhichhavenotbeendrawnorstretched.Inthisstate,themolecularstructureofthefilamentsis
veryamorphous,meaningthelongpolymerchainsareveryrandomlyarrangedwithineachfilamentstrand.Noticeastheyarnisstretchedor
drawn,theyarnsizeorthicknessdecreases.Atthesametime,theyarnbecomesmorestable.Asthefilamentsarefurtheredstretchedthefilament
yarnreachesapointwhereadditionalstretchingordrawingbecomesmoredifficult.Atthispointthepolymerchainsareinacrystallinestate,with
thechainsbeinginamoreparallelarrangement.Differentdegreesofdrawingcanbeprovidedfordifferentendusesoftheyarn.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide33

YarnOrientationforTexturing

Arrangingthepolymerchainsinfilamentyarnstoamoreorganizedandparallelarrangementisreferredtoasyarnorientation.Thisyarn
orientationismadepossiblebymovementoftheyarnstrandthroughtwogodetrollersrunningatincreasingvelocities.Adrawratiocanbe
calculatedfromthevelocityratioofthetworollers.FullorientationofthepolymerchainsproducesaFOYorfullyorientedyarn.Partialorientation
producesaPOYorpartiallyorientedyarn.NodrawingatalloftheyarnwillproduceaUOYorunorientedyarn.Manytexturingcompaniestoday
usePOYyarnasthefeedyarn.POYyarnscanbepurchasedatalowercostcomparedtoFOYorfullydrawnyarn.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide34

CommonYarnOrientationTypes

Thetakeupspeedsanddifferentelongationvaluesfortheproductionofdifferentyarnorientationtypesareshowninthisslide.Whenchanging
fromloworientedyarnstohigherorientedyarns,thepackagetakeupspeedsincreaseandtheyarnelongationvaluesdecrease.ThelettersFDY
representfullydrawnyarn.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide35

YarnOrientationandApplication
LOY/POYyarnsinsufficientforenduses
HOYyarnshassufficientphysicalproperties
forawiderangeofapplications.
FOY/FDYyarnsaregoodforflatyarnsofhigh
strength

LOYandPOYyarnsarenotrecommendedforsomeendusesduetotheirhighelongationandlowstrength,butcanbedrawtwisted/drawwound
toproduceflatyarnswithacceptablephysicalpropertiesorcanbefalsetwistedorairjettexturedtodrawandcrimpthefilaments.HOYisflatyarn
withsufficientphysicalpropertiesforawiderangeofapplications.FOY/FDYyarnsaregoodforflatyarnswhensufficientphysicalpropertiesare
desiredforhighstrengthapplications.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide36

Texturing
Definition: Theprocessofcrimping,imparting
randomloops,orotherwisemodifyingcontinuous
filamentyarntoincreasecover,resilience,abrasion
resistance,warmth,insulation,andmoisture
absorptionortoprovidedifferentsurfacetexture
thatcanreduceyarnluster.
TwoGeneralTypesProminentlyUsedToday:
FalseTwist
AirJet

Texturingistheprocessofcrimping,curling,kinking,impartingrandomloopsorotherwisemodifyingcontinuousfilamentyarninordertoincrease
cover,resilience,abrasionresistance,warmth,insulation,ormoistureabsorption.Thisyarnmodificationprovidesadifferentsurfacetexturetothe
yarnwhichreducestheyarnluster.Afterreviewingoldermethodsoftexturing,thissectionconcentratesinmoredetailintwomostpopular
methodsoftexturingyarnstodayfalsetwisttexturingandairjettexturing.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide37

TexturedFilamentYarnSampleVideo

Theflatcontinuousfilamentyarnseenatthetopinthisslidewhentexturedwillhaveacompletelydifferentstructureasexemplifiedinthe
bottomyarnsample.Inthebottomyarn,individualfilamentsarenolongerstraightandparallelbutcrimpedtoaddmorebulkandvolume.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide38

TexturedYarnTypes

Ayarncomposedoflong,parallelfilaments,whichislightlytwistedorinterlacedtogivecoherence,willformdense,smoothfabricswitha
minimumoftexturalfeatures.Thistypeoffabricstructureisexcellentforparachutefabrics,whichwasusedforthefirstwovennylonfabrics.
However,thefabricprovedunsatisfactoryforshirts,thoughforashorttimeitwassoldforthisuse.Themarketforfilamentyarnswasverylimited.
Thequestionwasasked:Couldcontinuousfilamentyarnsbemodifiedtocompetewithspunyarns?Couldtheybemodifiedtoprovidesurface
textureandappearance,softness,bulk,warmth,andabsorbencyasseeninspunyarnfabrics?Itwasthepermanentsetofnylonthatledtothe
commercialsuccessofyarntexturing.Seeninthisslidearevarioustypesoftexturedyarnsandtheirgeneralstructure.Sometypesproducestretch
yarnswhileothertypesproducebulkyarns.Today,thepredominantmethodsarefalsetwisttexturingandairjettexturing.Thestufferboxmethod
isusedextensivelyincrimpingfilamentsintowformpriortocuttingthefilamentsintostaplefibers.Someoldermethodsarediscussedwithgreat
detailonthefalsetwistandairjetmethods.Theoldermethodscameintobeinginthe1950s.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide39

EdgeCrimpTexturing

Edgecrimptexturingisusedbymanywhenpreparingfancyribbonsandbowsforgiftpackages.Aflatandstraightribbonispulledoveraknife
edge,likeascissorsblade,andtheresultisatexturedribbonwithcurling.ThistexturalstructurewasproducedinayarnknownasAgilon.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide40

KnitdeknitTexturing

Knitdeknittexturingisaprocesswherebyayarnisknittedintoafabricandthefabricisheatset.Theyarnisthenunraveledfromthefabricand
continuestohavetheknitloopstructure.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide41

StufferBoxTexturing

Instufferboxtexturing,theyarnisoverfedintoastufferchamberwhichplaitsitintoafoldedorcrimpedstate.Theyarnisheatsetinthisstateand
thenremovedfromthechamberasahighlycrimpedyarn.ThistexturingmethodproducedyarnknownasBanLon.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide42

FalseTwistPrinciple

Thebasisoffalsetwisttexturingistotwistayarnashighlyaspossible,setitbyheating,followedbycooling,andthenuntwistingit.Thisgivesa
twistfreebundleoftwistlivelyfilaments.Inordertorelievethetorque,thefilamentssnarlintopigtails,whichresultsinalargeyarncontraction.
Theyarncanbestretchedtooverfivetimesitsfullycontractedlengthbeforethefilamentsarestraightenedout.Therecoverypowerisstrong.
Fabricscanbehighlystretched,butcomebackwhenthestretchisreleased.Thefibertwistisimportant.However,thefilamentswanttoreturnto
theircrimpedform.Thisdictatestheinitialformoffiberbuckling.Whenafullyextendedstretchyarnisallowedtocontractby10to20%,the
filamentsfollowhelicalpaths,whichalternatefromrighthandedtolefthanded.Whenayarnissetinthisform,ithashighbulkandlowstretch.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide43

FalseTwistAnimation

Tocreatefalsetwistinafilamentyarnbundle,theyarnmustbeheldattwopoints.Betweenthesetwoheldpoints,theyarnistwistedbysome
mechanism.NoticeintheanimationthatthetwistdirectionintheupperpartofthesimulatedyarnisSandthetwistdirectioninthelowerpartof
thesimulatedyarnisZ.Therefore,thetwistputintotheyarnabovethetwistingelementwillbecancelledoutastheyarnflowsbelowthetwisting
element.Thisisfalsetwistmeaningthattheinsertedtwistisonlypresentforashorttimeandthenuntwistingtakesplace.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide44

FalseTwistYarnFlow

Asshowninthisdiagramafalsetwistmechanisminsertstwistintotheyarn.Thetwistflowsbacktowardstheheaterwhereitwillbesetintothe
yarn.However,astheyarncontinuestomovethroughthemachine,itflowsbeyondthefalsetwistmechanismwhereitwillbeuntwistedinthe
oppositedirectionandthuscreatetextureintheyarnasthefilamentssnarl.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide45

PinTwisting

Bythe1960sand70s,itwasrealizedthatyarncouldbedraggedforwardoverarotatingpin.Sometypicalpinsareshowninthisslide.Thenormal
forceexertedontheyarnbythepingeneratesthetwistingtorque,andtheaxialfrictionincreasesyarntension.Thespindlescouldbereduced
tenfoldinsizetoabout2mmby1cmandwereheldbymagneticactionagainstrotatingrolls.Spindlespeedsincreasedbyanorderofmagnitude
of300,000rpm.Linearspeedreached100m/minwithaproductionofapproximately8.0kilogramsperspindleperweek.Thesefiguresarebased
onrunninga70deniernylon.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide46

DiscFrictionTexturing

Thecurrentdesignoffrictiontwisting,wasdevelopedinthe1980sand90s.Twistingtheyarninvolvestheyarnbeingdrivenagainsttheouteredge
ofdiscsandconstrainedinathreedimensional,zigzagpathwithinthreesetsofoverlappingdiscsasseeninthisphotograph.Frictiontwisting
allowsthespindlespeedstoincreaseto3,000,000rpmwithaproductionofapproximately80kilogramsperspindleperweekusing70denier
nylon.Theamountoftwistinsertedintotheyarnisgovernedbytwomainfactors:
1.
Theamountofcontactbetweentheyarnandthefrictiondiscs,referredtoasangleofwrap.
2.
ThespeedofthefrictiondiscsrelativetothespeedoftheyarnwhichiscalledtheD/Yratio.

Thedisctodayaretypicallymadefromceramicandpolyurethanematerials.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide47

DiscFrictionTexturingAnimation

Thereisnonarrationforthisanimation.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide48

CrossbeltTwistingAnimation

Crossedbelttwistingisanothermethodoffrictiontwisting.Theyarnisheldatthenippointoftwobeltsmountedatanangleandmovingin
oppositedirectionsasseeninthisanimation.Thesearereferredtoasniptwisters.Niptwisterswereintroducedin1979.Rotationofthebelts
impartsbothtwistandaforwardingactiontotheyarn.Thetwistinsertionrateiscontrolledbythreefactors:theangleofthebeltstoeachother,
thecontactpressureappliedtothebeltsandthevelocityratio(V/R),whichistheequivalentoftheD/Yratioforstackeddiscs.Itispossibletorun
twoyarnswithoppositetwistthroughasingleunit,andcombinethematwindup.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide49

FrictionTwistingMachine

Mostmachinestodayusefrictiondiscstoinsertthenecessarytwistintheyarnfortexturing.Aschematicofsuchamachineisseeninthisdiagram.
ManyofthesemachinesfeedPOYyarnswhichwillbedrawnatthesametimeasitisbeingtwistedandtextured.Thecreelorframeworkfor
holdingthePOYyarnpackagesislocatedbehindthemachineontheright.ThePOYfeederyarnsmoveforwardintothefirstdrawingroll,andthen
flowintotheheaterzone,followedbythecoolingzone.Heatingofthethermoplasticfilamentsbringsthemtoamoltenstatewhiletheyareina
twistedconfiguration.Thisallowsthehelicalangleoftwisttobesetintotheyarn.Theheatersmaybecontactornoncontactinoperation.The
coolingzone,madeupofcoolingplateshastwomajorfunctions:
1.
Itallowstheyarnbundletocool,whilestillinahighlytwistedstate.
2.
Itgivesstabilitytothehighlytwistedyarnbundlebetweentheexitfromtheprimaryheaterandtheentryintothefrictionunit.Thisis
veryimportantsince,ifthecoolingplatewerenotpresent,theyarnwouldbeveryunstableinthishighlytwistedstateandhaveatendencyto
balloonresultinginahighbreakrate.
Atthispointtheyarnsgothroughthefrictiondiscunitswheretwistisinsertedintotheyarn.Thediameterandthicknessofthediscs,thespacing
betweenthediscs,thetypeofdiscmaterialandthespeedofrotationallhaveaneffectontheamountoftwistthatisinsertedtotheyarn.Below
thetwistingunit,asecondsetofrollersdelivertheyarnfromthediscs.Atakeupsystemthenwindsthetexturedyarnsontotubestoeventually
formalargepackageofyarn.Thespeedoftheseconddrawingrollersystemexceedsthespeedofthefirstdrawingrollersystem.Thiselongates
theyarnandfinishesthedrawingoraligningofthelongchainmoleculeswithintheyarn.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide50

SingleHeaterFrictionTwistingMachine

Thisanimationisaviewofasingleheaterfrictiontypefalsetwisttexturingmachine.Noticethatithasonlyoneheater.Thefeedyarnpackagesare
shownontherightandthefouryarnsarefedintoaniprollerandthenpassthroughthesingleheater.Afterthis,theyarnfilamentsarecooled
beforeenteringthefrictiondiscs.Afterexitingthediscs,theyarnpassesthroughanotherniprollerandisthencollectedontoayarnpackage.This
isacloseupofthefourfeedyarnsjoiningtogetheratthefirstniprollsystemandthenpassingthroughtheheater.Threestacksofdiscsprovide
thetwistingoftheyarnbundleataveryhighrate.Thetwistinsertedflowsbackwardsfromthediscsthroughtheheaterandstopsattheniproll
system.Belowthefrictiondiscs,theyarntwistisremoved,andtheyarntakesonthetexturedappearance.Itisthendeliveredfromthemachine
andformedintoalargepackage.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide51

TwoHeaterMachine

Inatwoheatermachine,aftertheyarnpassesthroughthetwistingdevice,itcanpassthroughasecondaryheatertubeusuallybetween1.0and
1.3metersinlength.Atthispointtheyarnisheatedundercontrolledrelaxation.Thepurposeofthesecondaryheateristoreducetheamountof
skeinshrinkageorcrimpandstretchleftintheyarnafterexitingthetwistinsertiondevice.Ifthisisnotdone,andasecondaryheaterisnotused,it
isknownaseitherasingleheaterorhighextensionyarn.Thoughsuitableforcertainendusesinthiscondition,particularlywhereafabricofdense
constructionorstretchisrequired,itisnotsuitableformanyotherapplications.Thehigherthetemperatureinthesecondaryheaterthelowerthe
amountofcrimpleftintheyarn.Thesearecalleddoubleheaterorsetyarns.Theyfinduseinalltypesoffabricsandbecauseoftheirlowshrink
character,giveacrisperfeeltothefabricanddrapebetterthansingleheaterfabrics.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide52

ApplicationofConingOil

Uponleavingthemainframeofthetexturingmachine,theyarnwillbelubricatedwithconingoil.Thisallowstheyarntobeprocessedmore
efficientlyduringknittingorweaving.Thislubricationreducesyarntometalfrictionandyarntoyarnfrictionwhichhelpstomaintainproperyarn
strengthandabrasionresistanceduringfabricprocessing.Oilontheyarnalsohelpsprovidebundlecohesion,staticdissipation,andother
processingaids.Properleveloflubricantisextremelyimportantfortheprocessingperformanceofayarn.Theamountofoilappliedtotheyarn
typicallyvariesfrom1to3%.Noconingoilisappliedtotheyarnifitisgoingtobedyedintheyarnstate.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide53

TakeupandPackageBuild

Thetexturedyarninthisphotographisnowonapackagesuitableforthenextprocess.Alltakeupsystemsconsistofapackagesupport,adrivefor
thepackageandatraversingsystemtopreventtheformationofpatternbandsinthewoundpackage.Packagebuildmustallowforsmooth
unwindinginsubsequentprocessing.Packagedensitymustbecontrolled,whethertheyarnisdyedrequiringlowerdensityorwhethertheyarnis
putdirectlyontoahighspeedweavingorknittingmachine,inwhichcaseitwouldrequireahigherdensity.Thewindinganglechosenforagiven
packageofyarnwillaffectthewaytheyarnpacksonthepackageandthusaffectdyeingandunwindingefficiencyoftheyarn.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide54

FalseTwistProcessVariables

Thekeyparametersemployedduringfalsetwisttexturingandtheirinfluenceonthepropertiesoftheyarnasshowninthisdiagram.

1.DrawRatioThedrawratioistheamountofyarnstretchedbetweentheinputrollerandtheoutputrollerwhichfollowsthetwisting
mechanism.Themetersofyarntravelingperminutethroughtheoutputrollerdividedbythemetersofyarntravelingperminutethroughtheinput
rollerishowthedrawratioiscalculated.Thedrawratiowilldeterminethefinaltexturedyarnelongation,theyarndenier,andtheyarntenacity
whichisavaluecalculatedfromtheyarnbreakingstrengthandtheresultantdenier.Higherdrawratioswillcreateexcessivebrokenfilaments,low
dyeuptake,andreductioninresidualshrinkage.Lowdrawratioscreatetheoppositeofthese.

2.PrimaryHeaterTemperatureIncreasingprimaryheatertemperaturewillincreaseyarnbulkandfilamentbreakswhiledecreasingdyeuptake.
Decreasingthetemperaturewillcreatetheoppositeofthesefactors.

3.D/YRatioTheD/Yratioistheratioofspeedsbetweenthefrictiondiscsandthelinearspeedoftheyarn.Themostcommonmethodof
changingtheamountoftwistinsertedintheyarnisbychangingthespeedofthediscs,keepingthenumberofdiscsandthespacingbetweenthem
constant.

4.SecondHeaterTemperatureandOverfeedThehigherthetemperatureinthesecondheaterthelowerwillbethefinalyarnshrinkage.Ifahigh
secondheateroverfeedisemployed,thetensionontheyarnintheheatertubeislowallowingtheheatavailabletohaveitsmaximumeffect.

5.PackageBuildOffwindingperformanceoftheyarniscrucialtomeetingcustomerneeds.Factorsaffectingthisperformanceandtheformofa
packageincludeyarnskeinshrinkage,yarndenier,interminglinglevel,takeupoverfeed,windangle,taperangle,traversestrokelength,and
windingtension.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide55

AirJetTexturingOverview

Airjettexturingworksbymechanicalinterlocking,notbyheatsetting.Itcan,therefore,beappliedtoanycontinuousfilamentyarn,includingrayon,
glassandthenewhighperformancefibers,aswellasnylon,polyesterandpolypropylene.ThemethodwasinventedbyDuPontinthe1950sand
anearlyjetdesignisshowninthisslide.Thebasisofthemethodisthatyarnisoverfedintoacompressedairjetstream,sothatloopsareforced
outoftheyarn.Sincetheloopsneedtobelockedintotheyarn,thiscanbeachievedbytwistingtheyarnatthetakeup.Thealternative,whichis
thecurrentpractice,istodesignthejetsandtheyarnpathsothatthereissufficiententanglementinthecoreoftheyarntostabilizetheloops.Air
jetsarealsoaddedtofalsetwisttexturingmachineswhichenablesyarnsofadifferentcharactertobeproduced.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide56

AirJetAnimation

Intheanimationshown,theyarnenteringthetexturingzonewhereair(representedinblue)entanglesthefilamentscanbeseen.Theair
turbulencecreatestwistedloopsofyarnontheyarnsurface.Thiscausestheyarntobefuzzy,similartoaspunyarn.Itwill,therefore,exhibita
spunyarnlikeappearanceandhaveaspunyarnlikehandorfeel.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide57

AirJetProcessingVariables

Animageillustratingairjetprocessingvariablescanbeseeninthisdiagram.

1.DrawRatio:Thedrawratioistheamounttheyarnisstretchedbeforeenteringthetexturingzone.Whenfeedingtwoyarns,thedrawratiohas
tobesetforeachyarn.Inadditiontooverfeedandsubsequentstretchingandrelaxing,thedrawratiodeterminesthefinalyarndenier.Over
drawingcausesbrokenfilamentswhileunderdrawingcausestheyarntobeplasticornonelasticwhenstretchedunderload.Thismaybe
desirablewhenafabricistobestretchedintotheshapeofaseatorsomeotherobject.

2.HotpinorDrawpin:PolyesteriswidelyavailableintheformofPOYand,therefore,anytexturingprocesssuitableforthismarkethastoinclude
themeansfordrawingPOY.Commonpracticeistouseaheateddrawpinlocatedbetweenthefirsttwodrawrollswhichprovidesafixeddraw
pointandameansofheatingthePOY.Typicaltemperatureforpolyesterrangesfrom135to160degreescelcius.Thishighertemperaturereduces
residualshrinkage.

3.YarnOverfeed:YarnOverfeedhasadirectinfluenceuponthebulkorspecificvolumeoftheyarn.Differentyarnscanhavedifferentoverfeed
ratesandcreatecoreeffecttypeofyarns.Surfaceloopscanbeformedtomakespunlikeyarns.Changingthecoreyarnoverfeedhasadirect
influenceonthestrengthofthetexturedyarnaswellasitsstabilityorresistancetoremovalofthesurfaceloopstructureunderload.Sincethe
coreoverfeedaffectsthelengthofthetexturedyarn,ithasamajorinfluenceonthedenieroftheyarn.Theyarnoverfeeddeterminesthesizeof
theloops.Italsohasanindirectinfluenceuponthenumberofloopsperunitlengthandalsoonthedenier.

4.YarnWetting:Heavieryarnrequiresmorewatertobeapplied.Waterhelpstoreducetheyarntoyarnfrictionwiththefeedingofmultipleyarns
underdifferenttensionsandfeedingrates.Waterandsprayarecollectedinthejetboxandremovedbymeansofagravitydrainagesystem.

5.AirtexturingJet:From500to5000denieryarnscanbeusedwitheitheranaxialorradialtypeofjet.Radialjetsareusedwithloweroverfeeds
andhigherprocessingspeeds.Axialjetsoperatewithconsiderablyhighernetoverfeedsintherangeof4to20%toimpartstabilitytothetextured
yarn.Afinaltextureddenierof1215preparedforweavingcouldbemadefromfeederyarnofonly750denieratthepointofentryintothejet.This
meansthatthetotalincreaseindenieris60%.

6.MechanicalStabilization:Similartotighteningaknotinshoelacesbypulling,thestabilityofanairjettexturedyarnisimprovedconsiderablyby
stretchingafterthetexturingzone.Thisstretchingisdonebyusingatleasttwoyarnfeedunitsafterthejetbox.Thehigherthe(core)overfeedthe
greaterwillbetheeffectofstretchingontheyarnstability.From2to10%isnormal.Heatmaybeappliedwithinthemechanicalstabilizationzone
asameansofinducingtensionintheyarn.

7.Heatsetting:Airjettexturedyarnsaremuchmoredensethanfalsetwisttexturedyarnsofthesamedenierand,therefore,theeffectofheat
settingisnotasnoticeableintheendproduct.Neverthelesstheeffectofapplyingheatmeansthatoverfeedsofupto10%areused,depending
upontheresidualshrinkageofthetexturedyarn.Theappliedoverfeedmustbeabsorbedbytheshrinkageoftheyarnorelsetheprocesswould
breakdown.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing

8.YarnBuildandLubrication:Duetoairjettexturedyarnhavingamuchlowerstretchorelongation,thetakeupoverfeedsappliedarelower.
Methodsofapplyinglubricanttotheyarnandvaryingthequantityareidenticaltothoseforfalsetwisttexturedyarns.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide58

Airentanglingandcominglingshouldnotbeconfusedwithairjettexturing.Airentanglingofthefilamentstokeepthemtogetherismore
economicalthaninsertingtwist.Airjetsareusedtoentangleyarnfilamentsinprogrammedandrepeatingareascallednodesortackpoints.This
makesiteasiertoprocesstheyarninpreparationandfabricformingsteps.Italsoaidsincominglingortyingdownpliedyarns.Frequencyoftack
pointsisdescribedaspointspermeterofyarn.Thekeytosuccessfullyweavingtexturedyarniscominglingunlesstheyarnistwisted.Tackpoints
shouldremainintheyarnthroughweavingbutshouldcomeoutinfabricpreparationprocessespriortodyeingandfinishingofthefabric.Ifthey
arenotremoved,thenpinholeswillbenoticedinthefabricwhichisunacceptable.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide59

HotfluidJetsforBCFYarns

BulkedcontinuousfilamentorBCFyarnsareanothertypeoftexturedyarnusingjets.BCFyarnsareusedascoarsecarpetandupholsteryyarns.Its
originslieinDuPontresearchonjets.Theyarnisproducedbyusingfluidtexturingwithsteamtoproducetexturednylonandpolypropylenecarpet
yarn.Theseyarnshaveathreedimensionalcrimpthatispreferredforcarpetappearanceandperformance.Thesteamprovidesheattosetthe
bulkintheyarns.IntheproductionofBCFyarn,theyarnisfedthroughahotfluidjet.Theyarnisthencollectedinacaterpillarconfiguration
andcooledtostabilizetheset,beforebeingtakentothewindup.Theturbulenthotfluidproducesanasymmetricshrinkage,whichcauses
filamentstobuckle.Thebucklingeffectisset,andahighbulkyarnisproduced.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide60

YarnQualityandPerformanceProperties

Thereisnonarrationforthisslide.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide61

TexturingConcerns

Thechartshownlistssomeofthequalityperformanceparametersfortexturedyarns.

YarnBreaksTheyarnbreakrateisthenumberofyarnbreaksthattakeplaceperunitweightoftexturedyarnproduced.Yarnbreaks
cancreateshortyarnpackages,lostproductionandincreasedlaborandpackagingcosts.ThebreakscanbecausedbylowqualityPOYyarnshould
besegregatedandmachinespeedsshouldbelowered.Processrelatedcausescanbeanexcessivelyhighdrawratio,excessivelyhighprimary
heatertemperature,andhighprocessingspeeds,causinginstabilityandsurginginthethreadpath.Poormachinemaintenancecreatingsuchthings
aswornordamagedceramicdiscs,poorthreadpathalignment,anddamagedniprollsandapronscanalsocauseyarnbreaks.

InterminglingFaultsMainlyinvolvethefrequencyorstrengthoftheinterminglingknotandtheirregularityorunevennessof
interminglingalongthelengthofthetexturedyarn.Thechoiceofjetmustmatchwiththeoveralldenier,filamentdenier,andthespeedofthe
processinorderfortheinterminglingtobestronganduniform.Processconditionssuchasairpressure,yarntension,speed,andjetlocation
shouldbeoptimized.Ageandcleanlinessofthejetsmustalsobeconsidered.

BulkVariationCanbeeitherendtoendvariationaroundthetexturingmachineorvariabilityoftheyarnalongtheyarnlength.Causes
canbeunevenheatpenetrationduetotheyarncorebeingmoredensethanthesurfacefilaments.Thisismorelikelywhenlowfilamentdenier
yarnisbeingtextured.Othercausesofbulkvariationmaybelowdrawratioorincorrectrateoftwistinsertionfortheparticularprocess.Thismay
beremediedbychangingeithertheD/Yratioorthenumberoffrictiondiscsemployed.

DyeVariationMaybeanoveralldriftinshadetowardslightordarkdyeoranincreaseinendtoendvariationwithinthemachine.
Changeinpolymer,POYvariations,dirtyprimaryheaters,wearofpolyurethanediscs,andyarnnotfullydrawncanallleadtodyevariation.

PackageDensityProblemsParticularlyimportantforpackagesdesignatedfordyeing.Yarnshrinkageandinterminglingpropertiesmust
becorrect.Incorrectwindingtension,errorsinthethreadpath,incorrecttaperangle,andimproperwindanglecanallleadtowrongpackage
densityforagivenproductoftexturedyarn.Thesefactorsmustmeetrequiredspecifications.

SurgingInstabilityinthethreadline.Itmanifestsitselfinaleanuntexturedappearance.SurgingcanbecausedbypropertiesofthePOY
feedyarn,incorrectmachineparameters,drawratiobeingtoolow,wrongthroughputspeedforagivenproduct,irregularapplicationofspinfinish,
andirregularyarnorientationalongthelengthoftheyarn.

PackageBuildFaultsOneofthemorecommonpackagebuildfaultsisbulging,causedbyusingsmallwindangles.Anotheriswebbingor
scramblingoftheyarnsonthepackage,manytimescausedbyatoolowwindangleforintermingledproducts.Highdensitypackagesproduced
withhightakeuptensionswillalsoresultinwebbing.Overthrownends,ridges,shouldering,andnotailpackagesareothercommonpackagebuild
faults.

BrokenFilamentsTexturedbrokenfilamentsmayberelatedeithertotheyarntype,POYcontributingfactors,tomechanicaldamage
withinthethreadpathortothesettingsofthetexturingmachineonwhichtheyarnisproduced.Brokenfilamentsareamorecommonoccurrence
onlowdenierratherthanhighdenierproducts.

TightSpotsTaketheformofaveryshortlengthofuntexturedyarnandaremosteasilydetectedbyinspectinglonglengthsofyarn,
examiningaknittedsleeveorbyonlinemonitoring.Thecausesoftightspotsarethosementionedpreviouslyforsurgingandthesameremedial
actionscanbetaken.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide62

SpecificPerformanceProperties

TackRetention
TwistDirection
TwistLevel
Torque
SkeinShrinkage
ResidualSkeinShrinkage

Thepropertiesshowninthisslidearespecifictotexturedordrawnyarns.TheyaregenerallynotapplicabletoPOYyarns.

TackRetention:Theabilityoftackstowithstandstretching.Thisisimportantwhenprocessingimpartsdifferentdegreesofstrainonthe
yarn.Tackretentionquantifiesthestrengthofthetacktowithstandstrainand,therefore,providebundlecohesionforprocessing.

TwistDirection:Therotationaldirectionbywhichtwistispresentinayarn.ItcanbedesignatedasSorZ.

TwistLevel:Thenumberofturnsoftwistinayarnperagivenlengthofyarn.Fortwistedyarns,theleveloftwistiscriticalforthedegree
ofbundlecohesionneededforprocessingandyarnstrength.Inthetexturingprocess,thetwistlevelhasasignificantimpactonthecrimplevelof
theyarn.

Torque:Thetendencyofayarntorotateandkinkuponitselfinanefforttorelievetwist.Theimpactoftorque,causingkinksintheyarn,
canleadtoprocessingproblems.Torquecanoftenbeobservedinfabrics.TorquecanbebalancedbyplyingSandZyarns,orminimizedwith
jets.

SkeinShrinkage:Thelengthcontractionofaskeinofyarn,heldataprescribedloadandafterheatingunderprescribedconditions.Tests
aredesignedtosimulatevariousdownstreamprocessingconditions.Sometestssimulatetherestrainingforcesexperiencedinfabricdyeingand
finishing,andisusedtodesigntexturedyarnsfordifferenttypesoffabricapplications.

ResidualSkeinShrinkage:Theresidualshrinkagetestutilizesamuchlowerrestrainingloadthanothertestsandisabetterindicatorof
theultimateshrinkagepotentialoftheyarn.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide63

CompoundorCompositeYarns
Composedofmultipleyarnstrands.Acore
componentandawrappingcomponent
TwoGeneralTypes
coveredyarn
corespun
1)withafilamentcore/staplefiberwrap
2)withastaplefibercore/filamentwrap
3)withastaplefibercore/staplefiberwrap

Compoundorcompositeyarnsareyarnstructuresconsistingofatleasttwostrands,oneformingthecenteraxis,orcore,oftheyarn,andtheother
formingthecoveringorwrapoftheyarn.Oneofthestrandscanbefilamentyarnandtheotheraspunyarnorbothcanbefilamentyarnsinorder
fortheclassificationtobeacompoundorcompositefilamentyarn.Theseyarnsaregenerallyavailableinthesamesizerangesasfilamentand
spunyarns.Ingeneraltherearetwotypesofcompoundyarns,coveredandcorespun.
Incoveredfilamentyarns,thewrapistheyarnwhichcanbeeitherafilamentyarnoraspunyarn.Thecoremightbeanelastomericfiber,suchas
rubberorspandex,orahardfiber,suchaspolyesterornylon.Coveredyarnsmayhaveeitherasinglecoveringoradoublecovering.Thesecond
coveringisusuallytwistedintheoppositedirectionfromthefirstcovering.Corespunyarnhasahardorelasticyarncorealongwithasheathof
staplefibersontheyarnsurface.Averycommoncorespunyarnhasspandexfiberinthecoreandcottonstaplefibertwistedaroundthesurfaceof
theyarn.Corespunyarnscanbeofthreetypesfilamentcore/staplefiberwrap,staplefibercore/filamentwrap,andstaplefibercore/staplefiber
wrap.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide64

CoreSpinningOperationAnimation

Thisanimationillustratesthemakingofacoveredyarnwithaspandexcore.Thecorecouldalsobeahardfilamentyarn,texturedorflat,orahard
spunyarn.Thesupplypackageofspandexissurfacedrivenatacontrolledrate.Theyarnpassesfromthepackagedriverolltoadrivenfeedroll
calledastarwheel.Theyarnthenpassesthroughtwohollowspindlesonwhichspoolsofcoveringyarnaremounted,andtothedriventakeup
wheelsortoniprolls.Fordoublecoveredyarns,spoolsrevolveathighspeedinoppositedirections,wrappingthehardfiberyarnaroundthe
stretchedcoreofspandexwithsufficientwrapsperunitlengthtopermittheyarntohavethedesiredstretch.Thebottomcoveryarnnormally
controlsthestretch,whilethetopcoverservestobalanceandgiveasmoothappearancetothesurfaceofthecoveredyarn.Withabottomand
topwrappedinoppositedirections,SandZ,whatisproducedisatorquefreedoublecoveredyarnwithdefinitestretchlimits.Forsingle
coveredyarns,asinglespoolofcoveringyarnismountedonthebottomspindletowrapthestretchedcoreofspandexwithsufficientwrapsper
unitlengthtogivethedesiredyarnaestheticsandprotectiontothecore.Thecoveredyarnisallowedtorelaxpartiallyabovethetakeupstar
wheel,andisthenwoundontothetakeuppackage.Thesurfacespeedofthetakeuppackagedriveroll,relativetothatofthetakeupstarwheels,
governstherelaxationofthecoveredyarn.Thetotaldraftischosentogivethebestbalancebetweentheweightandcostofthespandex,machine
productivity,andtheappearanceofthecoveredyarnforthepowerandstretchrequired.Inpractice,lowerdraftsaregenerallyusedtogivethe
bestbalanceofyarnproperties.Excessivedraftingcancausebrokenfilamentsinthespandexcore.Acoveredyarnwithsuchacorewillcontain
slubsandshowvariationsinpower.Coveredyarnsoflowdenierperfilament(dpf)willproducesmoothercoveredyarnsandbettercoverageofthe
core.Withdoublecoveredyarnsthestretchiscontrolledbythenumberofwrapsofthebottomcoverperunitlength.Thebalanceoftheyarnis
controlledbythenumberofwrapsofthetopcover.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide65

DoubleCoveredYarns

Duringthecoveringprocess,theyarncoilsproducedbythecoveringyarnsarespacedapart.However,uponrelaxingtheyarn,thecoilsbecome
closerandmorecompact.Aspreviouslymentioned,withdoublecoveredyarnsthestretchiscontrolledbythenumberofwrapsofthebottom
coverperunitlength.Thebalanceoftheyarniscontrolledbythenumberofwrapsofthetopcover.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide66

CoreSpunYarns

Filamentcore/staplefiberwrapcorespunyarnshavefilamentsinthecenteroftheyarnwhicharecompletelysurroundedbyawrapofstaple
fibers.Thewrapissometimesreferredtoasasheathbecauseitiscomposedofuntwistedstaplelengthfibers.Thistypeofyarnhasapplicationsin
apparel,household,andtechnicalareas.Whenplied,polyestercore/cottonwrapyarnsmakesewingthreadsmarketedascottoncovered
polyester.Someprotectiveclothingandflameresistantcurtainsarecomposedoffiberglassfilamentcore,surroundedwitharamidfiber,aramid
blends,orPBIfiber.Otheryarnsmayhavecarbonfiberinthecoreforthesesameapplications.Someprotectiveglovesmayhavesteelwire
surroundedbyaramidfiberblends.Whencottonisthesheathfiber,itallowsforgooddyeing,goodhand,andprotectionfortheelastomericfiber.
Yarnsofthistypeprovidestretchindenim,knit,andhosieryproducts.Staplefibercore/filamentwrapcorespunyarnshaveacoreofuntwisted,
parallelstapefiberstrandinthecoreoftheyarnandafilamentwrappedaroundthecore.Thistypeofyarncanbeagoodsourceforusingwaste
fibers,whichcanbeplacedintheyarncore.Sincetwistisnotinserted,themostexpensiveaspectofproducingaspunyarniseliminated.The
majorityofthedevelopmentandproductionofstaplecore/staplefiberwrapyarnshasfocusedontheuseofpolyesterstapleforthecoreand
cottonfiberforthewrap.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide67

CoreSpunYarn

Asthisslideillustrates,afilamentcore/staplefiberwrapcorespunyarnhasasheathofstaplefiberswhichcoverafilamentyarncore.Whenthe
sheathfibersarecotton,theresultisthesoftness,lowluster,gooddyeability,andcomfortofthecottonfibersandthestrengthandorelasticity
contributedbythecorefilaments.Fabricscontainingcorespunyarnswithaspandexcoreareusuallyheattreatedtoadjusttheelasticproperties
ofthefabrictomeettheneedsofaparticularapplication.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide68

CoreSpinningSpandex

Corespunyarnscontainingspandexprovidethefabricdesignerwithbroadpossibilities,sincestretchableyarnscanbeconstructedwithawide
rangeofpropertiesusingvirtuallyanytypeofhardfiberasthecoveryarn.Onaringspinningmachine,thespandexisfedintothebackofthetop
frontrollerofthedraftingsystem.Thespandexformsthecore,whichiswrappedbycottonfiberswhichhavebeendraftedfromapackageof
rovingasseeninthediagramshown.Inairjetspinningapackageofspandexcanbefedintotheairnozzlecomponent,andthewrappingstaple
fiberscomefromthedraftingofcottonslivers.Thebasicrequirementstoproduceanelasticcorespunyarnistostretchanelastomericfilament
yarnbeforeitentersthespinningframe.Thisactionprovideselasticityinthefinalyarnbyretractionoftheelastomericcorewhenstressis
removed,thuscompactingandbulkingthespunyarncore.Thecorespunyarncanbeextendedtothepointwherethenonelasticcoveryarnis
stretchedtoitslimit,thusresistingfurtherextensionofthecorespunyarn.Elasticcorespunyarnsareusuallymadeoncotton,worsted,orwoolen
spinningsystems.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide69

TwistDirection

Afterflatfilamentandtexturedfilamentyarnsareproduced,theycanremainasingleyarnbundle,calledasinglesyarn,ortheycanbejoinedwith
otheryarnsinatwistedconfigurationtoproducepliedyarns.Asillustrated,thereareseveralcombinationsoftwistdirectionswhenplyingyarns
together.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide70

YarnsmadefromFilamentSilk

Silkistheonlynaturalcontinuousfilamentfiberthatcanbeformedintofilamentyarns.Silkwormcocoonsareimmersedinhotwatertosoftenthe
sericinholdingthesilkfilamentstoeachcocoon.Brushingtheoutsideofthecocoonsallowtheendsoffilamentstobedetected.Filamentsare
thenpickedupfromseveralcocoonsandcombined.Muchoftheprocesscanbeautomated,butpickinguptheendofthefilamentfromeach
cocoonmuststillbedonebyhandbyahighlyskilledassociate.Twototwelvefilamentsarenormallycombined.Thereelingoperatormustbequick
todetectdiameterchangesandthenaddortakeawayoneormorefilamentswhenneededinordertoproduceuniformyarn.Thesilkisformed
intoskeinsandgradedaccordingtoevenness,size,colorandcleanliness.Anyremainingsericinmustbeboiledofffromthesilk.Severalsilkyarns
maybetwistedtogether.Atremendousnumberofspindlesarerequiredtoinserttwistandplytheyarns.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide71

Filament/TexturedYarnsinFabrics

Thereisnonarrationforthisslide.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide72

WovenFabricStructure

Atypicalstructureforawovenfabricisshowninthisdiagram.Theverticalyarnsalongthelengthofthefabricarecalledwarpyarnsorwarpends
whilethehorizontalyarnsinterlacingwiththewarpyarnsarecalledweftyarns,fillingyarns,orsimplypicks.Warpyarnsarefedfrombeamsonthe
weavingmachine.Themakingofthesebeamswillbecoveredinthenextfewslides.Thefillingyarnissuppliedbyindividualyarnpackageslocated
ononesideoftheweavingmachine.Thisistrueforallshuttlelessmachinesinoperationtoday.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide73

WarpingofYarnsforWeaving

Priortoweavingflatandtexturedyarns,theyarnsaretransferredfromyarnpackagesontoasectionbeam.DirectwarperswithVshapedcreels,as
showninthisphotograph,areoftenpreferredfortexturedyarns.Straightlinecreelsareoftenpreferredforflatfilamentyarns.Conditionof
warperyarnguidesandbeamflangesiscriticalforfilamentyarns,especiallythosecontainingmicrodenierfilaments.Yarnpackagesize,and
especiallyyarnlength,areveryimportantparameterstocontrolinyarnsdesignatedforwarping.Thedimensionsoftheyarnpackagemustfitthe
warpercreelsandallthepackagesmusthaveidenticalyarnlengthsinordertominimizewasteandmaintainaccuratesectionbeamyardage.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide74

SlashingorSizingofWarpYarns

Asshowninthephotographofaslasher,sectionbeamsofyarnarethencombinedonaslashercreel,andsheetsofyarnenterasizeboxwhere
theyaretreatedwithasizesolutioncontainingsometypeofadhesivewhichhelpstoadhereortacktheindividualfilamentstogethertoprevent
filamentseparationduringweaving.Sizingtexturedyarnscangivecohesiontotheyarnbundleandsupplementtheairentanglementofthe
filaments.Thesheetsofyarnarethenputontoaloombeam,whichwillbethewarpyarnsupplyduringtheweavingprocess.Sizecancoatthetack
pointsinairentangledyarnstogivethetackpointsmorestabilityduringweaving.Withspunyarns,theobjectiveinsizingistoencapsulatethe
entireyarnsurface.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide75

DrawinginofWarpYarns

Drawinginistheprocessofthreadingeachindividualwarpyarnthroughdifferentelementsontheweavingmachine.Thedropwiresseenhereare
typicallymetaldevicesdesignedtoactasastopmotionsoweavingmachineswillnotcontinuetorunwhenayarnbreaks.Eachyarnisthendrawn
throughaheddlewhichislocatedinadevicecalledaharness.Theharnessesmoveupanddowntoproducethedesiredweavedesigninthefabric.
Heddlesanddropwiresmustbefreeofanyroughspotsorburrswhichwouldabradetheyarnandbreakfilaments.Socalledflashesortightends
inthefabriccanoccurduetoroughspotsonthedropwiresandheddleswhichcausestheyarntosnagandincreaseintension.Yarnlubrication
andapplicationofsizehelptheyarntogetthroughthesepotentialabrasivedevices.Itisimportanttoremember,thatwhenspunyarnsorabrasive
yarnslikeNomexhavebeenrunningonaweavingmachine,theheddlesanddropwiresmustbereplacedbeforerunningfilamentandfilament
texturedyarns.Otherwisebrokenfilamentswillresultandleadtomachinestops,lowweavingefficiencies,andfabricpilling.Coatedheddles
shouldbeusedwithfilamentyarns.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide76

TheReed

Thereedismadeofpiecesofwirewhichseparatethewarpyarnsintospecificgroupsofyarns.Itcontrolstheseparationoftheyarnsduring
weaving,theweavingfabricwidth,andassistsintheinsertionofthefillingyarns.Theemptyspacebetweenthewiresofthereedisreferredtoas
airspace.Theairspaceinreedsisincreasedforhighbulkandstretchyarnstoprotecttheyarnfromdamageandtoallowitfreedomtoperformas
desiredinthefabric.Noticethenumbersonthisreed.Thenumber7.0representsthereednumberorthenumberofdents(openslots)inthereed
while6575%representstheamountofairspaceinthereed.Spunyarnsandflat(FOY)yarnscanuselowerairspacereedssuchas4555%while
machinesrunningtexturedyarnsrequire5565%airspaceinthereed.Machinesrunningspunyarnmayhave4endsperdentinthereed,butif
runningtexturedyarn,mayhave3yarnsperdent.Thekeypointtorememberrelativetotheuseoftexturedyarnandthemethodoffabric
formationisthatforeffectivebulkingandstretchingandshrinkingofyarnstotakeplace,theremustbesufficientopenareainthefabricforitto
happen.However,toomuchairspacenormallyresultsinanunstablefabricandisoftenseenasabaggingeffect.Italsoresultsinseamslippage
becausethereisnotenoughinterlockingofwarpandfillingyarnstoholdthefabrictogetherwhenunderstressandstrain.Thechoiceofreedfora
givenwarpyarnproductisverycriticalasitaffectsweavingperformanceandfabricquality.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide77

TheReedActionVideo

Thereedmovesbackandforthonaweavingmachineasseeninthisvideo.Yarnchafingcanresultifthereisnotproperspacebetweenadjacent
yarnsandreedwires.WidthinthereedorWIRisimportant,especiallywhenweavingelasticyarnsinthefillingdirection.ExpandingtheWIRwill
allowelasticfillingyarnsmoreroomtoelongateandrecover.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide78

FabricConstructionandDPF

Fabricconstructionorfabriccountreferstothenumberofwarpyarnsperinch(orcm.)andthenumberoffillingyarnsperinch(orcm.)inthe
finishedfabric.ThereareguidestofollowforweavingdifferentDPFyarnproducts.Ifoneischangingfromastaplespunyarntoamicrodenieror
lowDPFyarnproduct,thefabricconstructionshouldbereducedinthewarpdirectionby1012%andby1618%inthefillingdirection.When
changingfromahighDPFyarntoalowDPFyarnthefabricconstructionshouldbereducedinthewarpdirectionby46%andby810%inthe
fillingdirection.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide79

FillingInsertiononShuttleless Weaving

Thecommonmethodsofinsertingthefillingyarnwhenweavingarebyuseofprojectiles,rapiers,airjets,orwaterjets,asshowninthisdiagram.
Somefilamentandtexturedyarnmanufacturershaveaspecificpackagewindforthetypeofloomused,whetherprojectile,rapier,airjet,orwater
jet.Rapierandprojectilemachinestendtoperformbetterwhenweavingstretchyarnsinthefillingdirectionthanairjetmachines.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide80

InfluenceofWeaveDesign

Frequently,theweavedesignischosensothatagivenfilamentortexturedyarnproductcreatesthedesiredappearanceinthewovenfabric.For
example,abasketweavedesign,asshowninthisfabricschematic,mightbeagooddesignchoicewhenusingtrilobalbrightyarnsinthewarp
directionandtrilobalfulldullyarnsinthefillingdirection.Thiswouldyieldacheckerboardpatternwithalternatinghighandlowlustersquaresin
thedesign.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide81

TwillWeaves

Twillweavescontainlongfloatswherethewarpyarnweavesovermultiplefillingyarnsonthefaceofthefabric.Thismeanstherearefewerwarp
andfillingyarninterlacingpoints.Thusthereisroomforstretchyarnstoperformatahigherlevel.Duetothefloatingoffillingyarnsonthebackof
twillfabrics,stretchyarnscanbeemployedinthefillingfabricdirectionandperformwell.Thereisalsoagreateropportunitytohighlightspecial
effectwarpyarnsbecauseofthegreatervisibilityofthewarpyarnsonthefaceofthefabric.A3/1twillisclassifiedasawarpfacetwill,meaning
morewarpyarnisshowingonthefaceofthefabric.A1/3twillisclassifiedasafillingfacetwill,meaningmorefillingyarnisonthefaceofthe
fabric.Soonehastodeterminewhatyarnproductistobeplacedinthewarpandwhatyarnproductistobeplacedinthefillinginordertogetthe
fabriclookandappearancethatisdesired.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide82

CrepeWeaves

Acrepefabricisusuallywovenwithhightwistyarns.SandZtwistyarnsareoftenused.Theweavehasarandomdistributionoffloatsdesigned
toproduceaneffectinthefabricthatdisguisesthepatternrepeat.Thefabrictextureorcrepelookiscreatedbythehigherthannormalamountof
twistintheyarns,producingacrinkledtextureonthefabricsurfaceandaratherharshhandorfeeltothefabric.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide83

SatinWeaves

Satinweavefabricscontainthelongestfloatsinthefillingandwarpdirections.Therefore,visualeffectyarnsarereadilyvisibleinthesefabrics.The
representationshowsthefaceofafiveharnesssatinfabricandalsothebackwherefillingyarnsproducelongfloats.Iftrilobalbrightyarnsareused
inthewarpdirectioninawarpsatinweavewherethewarpyarnsfloat,thefabricwillappearverylustrous.Fillingyarnsinthesefabricscanbe
lowerpricedcommodityyarns,becausetheywillnotshowonthefabricfacebutarepronouncedonthebackofthefabric.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide84

WeftKnitFabricStructure

Knitfabricsareformedbyloopingyarnstogether.Asseeninthisknitfabricstructure,thehorizontalrowsofloopsarecalledcourses.Eachvertical
columnofloopsiscalledawale.Insteadofanumberofendsandpickspersquareinchasinawovenfabric,knitshavecoursesandwalesper
squareinchinthefabric.Eachcourseisformedbyneedlesknittingyarnfromthesameyarnpackage,whileeachwaleisformedbyanindividual
needleknittingfromdifferentyarnpackages.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide85

WeftKnitFabrics

Duetotheloopstructureinknittedfabrics,yarnswithvisualeffectsandhighstretch,andevenbrightyarnsaregenerallyaseffectiveinknitfabrics
astheyareinwovenfabrics.Hightorqueyarnsareaproblemincircularjerseyknitfabricsduetothetubularfabricstendencytobeskewed.A
majoruseoffilamentandtexturedyarnsinknitfabricsisindoubleknitswheremoreelaboratedesigningcanbedone.Thispermitstheuseof
visualyarnswhichcanbeplacedinthefabrictobehighlyvisible.Jerseyknitfabrics,shownhere,aregoodcandidatesformicrodenierandother
lowdeniertexturedandfilamentyarnproducts.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide86

WarpKnitFabricStructure

Filamenttypeyarnsareusedfrequentlyinwarpknitting,whilespunyarnsarenotcommonlyused.Shownisaschematicofacommonwarpknit
fabricstructure.Warpknitstructurescancontainonetypeoffilamentyarnonthefabricfaceandbackwhileothertypesofyarnscanbeemployed
betweenthefaceandbackloops.Tricotwarpknitfabricscontainingfinedenierfilamentyarnsarefoundinladiesunderwearandlingerie.Raschel
warpknitfabricscontainingfilamentyarnsarefoundinapparel,interiorfurnishings,automotiveapplications,andmanytechnicalfabrics.Sports
relatedfabricsinmeshlikestructurespredominateinraschelwarpknitting.Laceandnetfabricsalsoareproducedonraschelwarpknitmachines.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide87

WarpKnittingAnimation

Theanimationshowndepictsatypicalwarpknitmachinewithyarnsbeingfedfrombeamsandenteringastraightlineofneedles.Eachyarnmust
bethreadedthroughaguidebareyelet.Theguidebarslooptheyarnaroundthefrontoftheneedlestoformoverlapsandthenformunderlapsof
yarnonthebackoftheneedlesinmanyvariouspatterns.Thisisdiscussedingreaterdetailinthewarpknittingmodule.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide88

KnitandWovenFabricSummary

Inaknitstructureyarnsoftenplayasecondaryrole,unlikeinmanywovenfabrics.Knitfabrics,becauseofthenatureoftheirloopstructure,have
builtinstretchandrecovery.Thispropertycanbeincreasedbytheuseofcoveredyarns.Howeveryarnswithspecialstretchfeaturesarenotas
effectiveasinwovenfabrics.Brightyarnssuchastrilobaltextureddonotappearaslustrousinaknitfabricastheydoinawovenfabricbecausea
smallerplatformexiststohighlightthespecialyarncharacteristicsofluster.Inwovenfabrics,theyarnsarestraight,andthereissufficientlength
ofyarnsseenwhichallowsthevisualeffectsofthickandthintexturedyarnsandotherspecialeffectstobemorereadilyseen.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.

FilamentYarnsandTexturing
Slide89

FabricPreparation
Preparesfabricfordyeingandfinishing.
Includesdesizing touniformily removesizeof
warpyarns.
Includeswashingorscouringofthefabricto
removeoilsandwaxesandotherimpurities.
Goodpreparationallowsforuniform
applicationofdyesandfinishes.

Afterweavingandknittingoffabrics,theyarepreparedfordyeingandfinishingprocesses.Thismainlyincludesdesizing(forwovenfabrics)and
washing.Thesestepsarecriticaltothequalityofthedyeingandfinishingofthefabrics.Fordesizing,itisimportanttoknowwhattypeofsizeison
thefabricforsuccessfulremoval.Ifthesizeisnotcompletelyremovedorremovednonuniformily,thendyesandfinisheslikeflameretardencywill
notbeaseffective.Thoroughwashingofthefabricwillremoveanychemicalsorforeignmaterialsthatmayinterferewiththeapplicationofdyes
andfinishes.

Copyright20082011NorthCarolinaStateUniversity.Allrightsreserved.