Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DISASSEMBLY
CHAPTER 1
PAGE 1-1
The 1911 pistol does not require a major investment in tools for disassembly. However, there are a
few specialized tools needed. Take this advice first - don't go to the hardware store. Purchase your
tools from a reputable gunsmith house. We recommend you contact Brownells, Inc. for a catlaog.
They sell mail order and carry only the finest quality merchandise. They are experts in firearms and
can offer you technical service as their customer.
Brownells, Inc.
200 South Front Street
Montezuma, IA 50171-1000
www.brownells.com
515-623-5401
You will need a small plastic or brass hammer, a screwdriver for grip screws (or 3/32" wrench if
using our hex head screws), an 1/8" wide flat screw driver, a 1/8" punch, a 1/16" punch, and a 1911
bushing wrench.
Before handling or working on any 1911 style firearm, ALWAYS follow the
proper unloading procedure:
1. Drop magazine FIRST
2. Check chamber for loaded round.
3. LOOK INSIDE CHAMBER!
DISASSEMBLY
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PAGE 1-2
NOTE: If the gun has a one or two-piece guide rod installed, see page 1-14 and 1-15 for the slight
differences in disassembly.
Now wrap your left hand around the lower portion of the slide to prevent the recoil spring from
flying away. Then allow the top assembly to slip slowly forward until it clears the frame. Set the
frame aside and prepare to release the recoil spring and plug. Be careful! Remove the recoil spring
and plug and set aside.
DISASSEMBLY
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PAGE 1-3
The barrel should slip forward easily so you can turn the barrel bushing 1/4 turn counter clockwise.
Tight bushings may require the use of a bushing wrench as shown. Now the barrel and bushing can
be removed from the slide and set aside.
Normally, this is all the take down thats necessary for routine cleaning. Its called field stripping,
but in all my years of shooting 45s I have never needed to disassemble one in the field. I hope you
dont try it either. I suggest a well lighted workbench with a clean, smooth floor.
DISASSEMBLY
Now use a small, flat blade screwdriver
to remove the extractor. It should pull
straight out from the back of the slide.
Be careful not to mar the sharp rear
edge of the slide while doing this.
The extractor should slip free easily.
Cleaning Tip:
Near the bolt face is a common place for
grit to accumulate. If left alone, it could
build up underneath the extractor and
cause a failure to extract. The bolt face
can be cleaned with an old toothbrush,
and the extractor hole can be cleaned out
with a Q-tip and solvent.
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DISASSEMBLY
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Thumb Safety
To remove the thumb safety, first cock
the hammer. Then place the safety in
the SAFE position. Gripping it firmly
and pulling straight out using a slight
twisting motion will usually get them
out. Be watchful for the safety plunger
and spring. Most of them will stay in
the plunger, but some may want to fly
out and roll away.
The safety will not come out while it is
in the fire position. If the gun is
equipped with an ambidextrous safety,
remove the extra side first. Remove it
the same way, gripping firmly and
pulling while slightly twisting. Once
the thumb safety is removed, let the
hammer down. Do not simply press
the trigger and let it slam the unprotected frame. Hold the top with your
thumb and let it down gently.
The plunger tube assembly inside the plunger tube can also be removed at this point. Pull it straight
out toward the rear of the gun.
Hammer, Hammer Strut
Removal of the hammer is accomplished by simply removing its hinge pin and pulling it out from
the top. Note that the pin will only come out one way as there is a slight head underneath the thumb
safety.
DISASSEMBLY
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DISASSEMBLY
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The mainspring housing is disassembled by holding it upside down against a rag placed on your
workbench. Hold it firmly, and press a 1/16" diameter punch against the small retainer pin. This
should press the retainer pin through where it can be removed and set aside.
Now, still holding the housing firmly, press the top of the housing down on the rag so the mainspring
and its cap will be caught, and pull the 1/16" punch out. You should have the mainspring, cap, and
the mainspring lower plunger all safely inside the rag.
DISASSEMBLY
Mag Catch, Lock, and Spring
If your gun is equiped with an Ed
Brown Oversize Magazine Button,
remove it first using a 3/32" hex
wrench as shown.
To remove the magazine release you
will need a small screwdriver that
will fit well into the catch locks slot.
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PAGE 1-8
DISASSEMBLY
Specialized Disassembly
Tools Needed: Small brass or plastic
hammer, flat screwdriver for grip
screw bushings (preferably with
special bit for grip screw bushings),
pliers, 1/16" punch. Naturally, a well
lighted workbench is necessary, and
a small bench mounted vise is handy.
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DISASSEMBLY
CHAPTER 1
PAGE 1-10
For years some bushings were assembled to the frame and then staked in place with a punch from
the inside of the frame. Expect trouble if you have to remove this type. They usually can be
removed without ruining the frame, but frequently the bushing must be scrapped.
In our shop, we never stake the bushings, preferring to hold them in place with Loctite. Keep in
mind the pistol was designed in 1910 and staking was the only way back then. Thankfully, today
we have better means.
If you encounter problems with removing the bushings, see pages 1-12 and 1-13.
DISASSEMBLY
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DISASSEMBLY
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DISASSEMBLY
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Usually a single blow will do it. If one blow does not, try again after checking to be sure everything
is square and well fitted and there is no damage done. Once the stuck screw is out, the bushing can
be removed and reassembled to the frame with Loctite. Future disassembly should not be difficult if
common sense is used while reinstalling the grip screws. Never use Loctite on the grip screws
themselves.
As for the installation of your new grips, use a little common sense here also. Many of the custom
grip makers use a tighter tolerance on the bushing holes than the factory does. This makes the grips
fit tighter. This is desirable, but if they are too tight they cannot be installed and removed easily.
The worst thing to do is to force the grips on with a thumb on each side of a snug bushing. I have
seen beautiful exotic wood grips broken in half this way.
The proper way is to set the grips over a single bushing to check for proper fit. If one bushing will
not go into the grip panel, it is for sure that the panel will never go over both bushings. If both
bushings will fit easily, but the grips will not go on the gun, there is a slight out-of-location problem
that can be easily corrected with a small rat-tail file, or miniature cutter in your Dremel tool. Go
slowly here, you can always cut more later, but you cant put it back. Identify the interference area,
and only cut away the tight spots. Do not enlarge the entire hole if it doesnt need it.
Ed Brown Products has available 1911 grip screws that are made with a hex head. They look really
nice even though that is not their purpose. They prevent screwdriver slips that could ruin a set of
nice grips, or mar the finish of the gun itself. Even if custom grips are not used, they speed up the
grip screw removal for routine cleaning.
DISASSEMBLY
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DISASSEMBLY
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DISASSEMBLY
Series 80
Here is a Colt Officers Model to demonstrate the additional parts that are
included in all Colt Series 80 guns and
also the Para-Ordnance guns. Notice the
round plunger and spring. This is what
will block the firing pin at all times
unless the trigger is pulled. If you will
look beside the hammer inside the
frame, you will see the lifter that will
contact the plunger and lift it up so that
the firing pin will pass.
CHAPTER 1
PAGE 1-16
DISASSEMBLY
With the firing pin stop removed, you can now
depress the plunger again and the firing pin
and its spring will now jump free. Make sure it
doesn't fly away, or hit you in the face. With
the firing pin and spring out of the way, you
can now get the Series 80 plunger and its
spring out. Note that you will have to pull the
extractor back just a bit because a lip inside
holds them in place.
CHAPTER 1
PAGE 1-17
REASSEMBLY
Trigger, Magazine Catch
We will assume the grip screw
bushings, plunger tube, and ejector
are still installed on the frame. We
will also assume the magazine catch
lock and spring are installed into the
magazine catch. Insert the trigger
into the frame and drop in the magazine catch.
Hold a bit of pressure against the
button while gently turning the lock
with a small screwdriver so it will
line up with it's slot inside the frame.
The little tab on the magazine catch
lock should engage a small slot inside
the frame which will release the
spring and hold the magazine catch in
place.
CHAPTER 2
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REASSEMBLY
CHAPTER 2
PAGE 2-2
Start the sear pin from the left side of the gun
and insert it until it is stopped by the misalignment of the sear. Now take your small screwdriver and lift the tip of the sear slightly until
the hole lines up. This will take a bit of maneuvering, but is easy after you have done it a few
times. Press the sear pin through the sear, and
make sure it goes through the hole in the center
of the disconnector as well.
Mainspring Housing
There are two pieces that go into the mainspring housing in addition to the mainspring itself. The
top one is the mainspring cap, and its concave area holds the hammer strut centered in the housing.
The one with the pointed end is called the mainspring housing pin retainer. Its job is to hold the
mainspring housing pin centered into the frame when the whole assembly is together.
REASSEMBLY
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PAGE 2-3
REASSEMBLY
Hammer, Hammer Strut, Hammer Pin
Insert the hammer, assembled with its
strut down from the top of the frame. It
should go nearly to its final position. It
takes a bit of trickery here to make the
job easy. First depress the top of the
disconnector to make sure the sear is out
of the way. Then tilt the hammer towards
the muzzle, drop it in, and press down
hard on the back of its lower area to
align it with the hinge pin hole. While
holding it in place, press the hammer pin
in place. Dont forget the pin should go
in so its head is held in by the thumb
safety. Once the hammer is in place, cock
it back and leave it.
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REASSEMBLY
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REASSEMBLY
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REASSEMBLY
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REASSEMBLY
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REASSEMBLY
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Install the guide rod and head only from the rear.
Note the spring cannot be in place at this time.
REASSEMBLY
Depress the recoil plug and spring into the
slide. You will notice that this may be quite
difficult due to the spring tension. One easier
way is to press the plug and spring into place
by pointing the assembly away from yourself,
and pressing the plug against the edge of the
workbench until it is flush with the end of the
slide. Then, while holding it in place against
the workbench, tap the bushing over the edge
of the plug with a plastic hammer, or screwdriver handle. This will hold it until you can
press the plug down with the bushing wrench,
and turn it into final position.
You may need to manipulate the rod a bit on
the rear to get this accomplished. Please wear
safety glasses in case of a slip, and keep the
assembly pointed away from your face.
CHAPTER 2
PAGE 2-10
CHAPTER 3
PAGE 3-1
CHAPTER 3
PAGE 3-2
BARREL LEADING
All bullet makers brag about how hard their
bullets are. Trouble is, almost all bullet makers offer a bullet that leads the barrel. No
properly hard cast bullet will lead a barrel
when fired at 45 ACP velocities. See the
loading chapter for more detailed information.
When your barrel does get severely leaded, a
good way to remove the fouling is with a
Lewis Lead Remover. This little item is
indispensable for this particular job. The trick
is a rubber plug which forces a brass screen
against the bore. The plug is pulled through
the bore in the same direction as the bullet and
the screen picks up the lead in only a few
passes. There is no chance of damage to the
bore. Lewis Lead Removers are available
from Brownell's and are a necessary item for
any handgun shooter that uses lead bullets.
GENERAL CLEANING
I suggest cleaning the gun after every shooting session. I dont mean a complete tear down, but a
simple field strip cleaning will take very little time and add years to your guns life. A gun has no
way to retain oil when it is being fired so be sure to replace what was lost during firing and cleaning.
Oil all the parts that move against one another with a drop or two of your favorite oil.
A shortcut to extractor death is
to never remove it for cleaning.
If you will examine the design of
the gun, you will notice the
extractor fits into a round hole
in the slide. But, the extractor
shape is somewhat oval, which
leaves a gap on the outside.
This gap allows burnt and
unburnt powder to enter and
eventually work its way around
in front of the extractor. If left
unattended long enough, the
crud forces the extractor hook
away from the bolt face and you
get a failure to eject. The
solution is simple. Remove it
and run a cotton swab through
the hole. You might be surprised what comes out.
CHAPTER 3
PAGE 3-3
GUN HANDLING
Even though the 1911 design has been around for over eighty years, there is a constant flow of new
shooters who have not yet learned the few tricks that successful handling can contribute. Probably
the most important item to learn is how to save the all important trigger pull. Rule one is never to
drop the slide without a round being fed from the magazine.
The biggest difference in loading the gun, and the gun loading itself during firing is the position of
the trigger. During firing, the trigger is held back while the gun cycles and feeds itself. This presses
the disconnector to the rear, and allows the sear to catch the hammer freely. During loading by hand,
the trigger is free to bounce backward. And bounce backward it will when the slide slams home. A
round fed from the magazine will cushion this action a bit better than slamming an empty gun, but
not as good as easing the slide quickly home by hand. If the gun is slammed shut, the trigger can
bounce rearward and hit the sear, knocking it free of the hammer. Now the hammer is able to fall and
will hit the half cock notch. At least you better hope it hits the half cock notch. This could possibly
ruin the precious sear angles and your great trigger pull. But if it somehow misses the half cock
notch, the gun will fire accidentially, and none of us want to talk about that scenario. Heavier recoil
springs only serve to aggravate this problem.
Lighter triggers have been recommended for many years as one solution to trigger bounce. A lighter
trigger will accelerate more slowly against the same sear spring tension than a heavier one. The most
popular material is light weight aluminum, and then holes are drilled in them to reduce the weight
even further. Colt has furnished a different sear arrangement with a buffer spring and lever to stop
the heavier Gold Cup trigger from bouncing. Jim Clark offers a special four leaf sear spring to assist
this problem. My solution is simple. Never slam the slide shut on an unloaded gun. Hold on to it
firmly, close it gently, and let the hammer down.
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PAGE 3-4
A frequently recommended loading practice is the suggestion to hold the trigger to the rear while
pressing the slide stop. I admit this does solve the problem of trigger bounce, but the sequence must
be: Seat the magazine, press the trigger, and press the slide stop. If under the stress and pressure of
a missed reload, the shooter should reverse steps two and three, the result is an accidental discharge.
My suggestion is, first, never run your gun dry. If you dont know how many rounds you have fired,
you are already out of control. Second, load only by seating a magazine, then pulling the slide to the
rear and sliding it back home. Its easy to see if it is fully seated when you flip the safety to the on
position. If you should happen to run the gun dry during an action match, keep trying and complete
the match, but do so at a slower, more controlled pace. You will learn more by watching the front
sight than you will by slamming more magazines in the gun and wildly firing trying to make up time.
My suggested method of SAFELY loading a 1911 handgun goes like this. First, insert a loaded
magazine into the well and press it firmly home. An audible click can be heard as the magazine catch
engages the magazine slot. I'll assume that you have the gun in your firing hand and your finger out
of the trigger guard. Second, grab the slide rear serrations with the opposite hand and pull back to
disengage the slide stop, and simply let it go forward. You can let it go completely, however, I have
long preferred to retain my grip on the slide while it is traveling forward because it eases the slamming just a bit more. It is simple to see if the slide is all the way home because the thumb safety
wont go on if it isnt.
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PAGE 3-5
Another cause of malfunction is the failure of the shooter to hold on to the gun securely. The 1911,
and most all other auto pistols are recoil operated. This means that the only thing the gun has to
push on to unlock is the shooter himself. How many times have you seen a shooter whose gun
seems to work perfectly in freestyle, croak during the weak hand stages. This is probably caused by
too heavy a recoil spring, or too weak a grip. Make certain that your grip is firm. You should see the
imprint of the checkering in your hand after releasing your grip.
Following these few principles of maintanance and proper handling will extend the life and reliability of your firearms for years of shooting enjoyment.
CHAPTER 4
PAGE 4-1
The original manufacturer, be it Colt or whoever, broaches a square or rectangular hole through the
slide. Into this square hole fits the tenon, or lower part of the sight. This tenon is longer than necessary to reach fully through the slide and the excess is swaged, or peened over to prevent its removal.
Sort of like peening a rivet.
In the early days it was customary to install target sights with a higher sight radius for bullseye
shooting. This required a higher front sight and thus more weight and stress was placed on the small
tenon. Sometimes they loosened, and sometimes the tenon would simply break off sending the sight
flying away.
To complicate matters, some manufacturers never provided enough of a recess area to swage the
tenon into, allowing the small swage to give up and only loosen the sight. You didnt loose it, but you
couldnt hit anything either.
Then in the late seventies, IPSC first became popular, and heavy loads were the norm for most 1911
guns. Many pistolsmiths were only learning to install sights on 1911s, and as you can imagine, they
had a lot to learn. A lot of sights were lost due to poor gunsmithing.
Colt responded to the problem about 1988 with what we call the wide tenon sights. Here, they
broach a square hole through the slide that is the whole width of the front sight. This has all but
eliminated breakage, but occasionally there is some loosening due to insufficient swage on the
bottom. Or more specifically, not enough countersink inside the slide to swage the tenon into.
All swage on front sights require special installation techniques, and require special tooling. For
years I have used the MMC swage tool with excellent results. Brownells sell this tool and before
you get a case of sticker shock peeking in the catalog, let me warn you. The tool costs nearly 100
bucks. However, mine has paid for itself many times over.
Most hobbyists will not want to spend this much money for the tool, so one could argue that this
section could be logically omitted from the book. On the other hand, you might just want to learn
how it is done thinking perhaps someday a bit of sideline gunsmithing might be in order.
CHAPTER 4
PAGE 4-2
CHAPTER 4
PAGE 4-3
After most of the swage is gone, place the old sight into a smooth faced vise and then pull straight
away with the slide. A little wiggling will pull most of them loose. If you should get one that will
not come out this way, a well placed tap with a 1/16" punch on the bottom of the tenon will pop it
out. As soon as you get the old sight out, it is clearly visible how much of a countersink you have
inside the slide. Deepen it so that there is about .030 minimum on all sides. We want plenty of room
to swage metal into.
Now try your new sight on the slide and check carefully to see that the base of the sight will fit
absolutely flat on your slide. Most will not. Many slides do not have enough of a flat for the sight to
set on. Now this is an absolute must. Either file a small notch on the rear of the sight to clear the
slide, or machine a larger flat on the slide. Whichever way you choose, remember the sight MUST
fit absolutely flat on the slide.
The next trick is to fill the slot with Loctite. Use the best grade you can buy. We use Red 271.
Install the new front sight and wipe out any excess Loctite from the inside of the slide. Now insert
the MMC tool in the slide and tighten up the screw on top of the sight. This will hold it firmly in
place while the tenon is swaged over. Make sure the tool is installed perfectly straight, and the front
sight is absolutely straight, or you can start over later with a new sight.
Once you are certain everything is square, begin tapping the high speed steel swage tool in the slide.
As it goes in, it swages over the tenon better than factory, plus, now with the added advantage of a
deeper countersink and Loctite. Remove the tool and inspect the job to make sure it is absolutely
square. Nothing looks worse than a cockeyed 1911 front sight. If it is only slightly off, carefully
place it in your smooth faced vise and gently straighten it. Recheck your barrel bushing fit. Sometimes you need to carefully file the swaged lump down a bit.
CHAPTER 5
PAGE 5-1
Before attempting to move the sight, take note of exactly where it is on the slide. You have to know
if you have moved it or not. Sometimes it is possible to scribe a small mark on the dovetail where it
will be covered when the sight gets moved. This is the most foolproof way to get it right the first
time.
CHAPTER 5
PAGE 5-2
If you want a fixed sighted gun to shoot higher or lower, it is a bit more work, but still possible. One
needs to keep in mind that the front sight adjustments work opposite of the back. That is, if you want
the gun to shoot higher, the front sight needs to be lower. This is the easiest to adjust, because you
can remove metal. So that is exactly what you need to do. Reduce the front sight height by filing or
machining it down.
Remove the excess metal the best way you can. If a file is all you have, that will work satisfactorily,
but be careful to keep it flat. You don't want a front sight that is out of square, or rounded off. Also,
try to keep the front sight top surface angled toward the front. This will force the eye to see the top
rear of the sight only, instead of the whole front sight.
As with the rear, retire to the range for another test session to determine the results of your work.
Once the gun is shooting where you want it, refinish the sight with cold blue.
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PAGE 5-3
Some guns have the rear sight held in place with a set screw, instead of dovetail pressure. This is the
way we install fixed rear sights in our shop, and makes the job of adjusting them much easier, because there is little or no pounding with hammers and punches. We have reprinted the fixed sight
instructions here.
TRIGGER
CHAPTER 6
PAGE 6-1
One of the finest shooters I ever knew was Mike Dalton. I recall a conversation we once had about
the subject of triggers. His opinion was that a three pound pull was the minimum safe, reliable pull
for the standard 1911 design. He felt that under the stress and pressure of IPSC competition, anything less was detrimental. As Mike put it, "With the increased adrenalin flow in a shootoff, its the
manual dexterity that goes first. This usually causes extra pressure on the trigger leading to an
accidental discharge".
Serious shooters are probably fussier than anybody about trigger pulls. It has to be just so much
weight, just so crisp, and just so much overtravel. Most all shooters want the pull lighter than it
should be for the utmost reliability. Bill Blankenship once told me that John Brownings original
design called for a 7 to 9 pound weight of pull. The NRA calls for a 4 pound pull minimum to be
legal in the Service Pistol event for a Leg match.
Todays top shooters cringe if their pistolsmith offers them any more than a three pound pull. I wont
even mention what some shooters are trying to use. The point is, do not pressure your pistolsmith
into doing an extremely light pull in an attempt to raise your scores. Generally such practices will
backfire on you at the most inopportune times.
The hammer/sear contact area is extremely small and subject to enormous pressure and wear. This is
an area that should be examined closely during each cleaning session. Have your local pistolsmith
point out the areas to watch, and examine them with at least 4 power magnification to spot wear.
This practice will allow you to eliminate any problems before they even arise.
The installation of a long trigger is a common modification. Most all 1911 type autos, other than the
new factory customs, have the original short trigger installed. Since most shooters feel they can
benefit from having the trigger reach a bit farther out, the original trigger is replaced with a longer
one.
Perhaps a more significant advantage to replacing the trigger, is that the aftermarket triggers all have
an overtravel stop installed. This is simply a small set screw that will bear against the magazine
release catch to limit the travel of the trigger. We want the trigger to have a limited movement
because we intend to do a trigger job on the gun at a later date.
TRIGGER
CHAPTER 6
PAGE 6-2
Most pistolsmiths require an adjustable stop be installed in the trigger if a trigger job is to be done.
A greatly simplified explanation of a trigger job is as follows: On most guns, when a trigger job is
done the sear angles are changed slightly and the hammer hooks are trimmed. This gives the shooter
a crisper pull since the engagement surfaces are smaller.
In some instances the reduction of these two areas can allow the trigger to be pulled past the point
where the disconnector can function normally. In this case, the sear is prevented from freeing itself
from the disconnector and doing its job of springing free and catching the hammer after a shot is
fired. The result is a double discharge, or in extreme cases, the full automatic operation of the gun.
Definitely not what we are looking for.
A longer trigger will not effect trigger pull. The trigger pull is determined mainly by the sear, hammer, and sear spring; not parts we will be changing at this time. On the other hand, a long trigger
may FEEL so much better in the shooters hand, that a better trigger pull may be perceived.
One other thing I might mention is that most aftermarket triggers are made from materials like
aluminum. The reason is weight. No 1911 pistolsmith would ever recommend that his customer
press the slide stop down and allow the slide to slam shut. On the other hand we all know that it
happens, and when it does, the slide hits home and the force causes the trigger to bounce in reverse,
as if it was being pulled. Since the spring tension and sear angles have been reduced, the trigger can
actually knock the sear out from under the hammer hooks and allow the hammer to fall. And when it
does, the half cock notch slams down on top of the carefully prepared and stoned sear angle. This
could possibly ruin the trigger pull job. Therefore we want the weight of the trigger itself to be as
light as possible.
In the Gold Cup pistols which have a wide heavy trigger, Colt added a small part known as a depressor and a spring to a special sear. This depressor and spring act as a shock absorber to prevent
trigger bounce.
TRIGGER
CHAPTER 6
PAGE 6-3
TRIGGER
CHAPTER 6
PAGE 6-4
If the hammer will not go all the way down, or if you can feel the hammer rub the disconnector, the
overtravel screw is too tight. Back it off. If nothing can be felt after the release, you can tighten the
overtravel screw about 1/4 turn and try again. I usually tighten the screw until a slight rub is felt, and
then loosen the screw about 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Now disassemble the lower housing and replace the grip safety and thumb safety. Since the grip
safety blocks the trigger bow, and this part has been replaced, we need to check for proper operation.
Look inside the frame through the left hand grip panel to see that the grip safety will properly block
the trigger bow. Some aftermarket triggers have slightly longer bows, so the foot on the grip safety
that blocks the trigger may need to be adjusted slightly. Again, go slowly in this area and be sure to
keep all the angles the same.
In the rare event the grip safety foot is too short to reach the new trigger bow, you may be able to
peen the foot slightly, or bend a small area back on the end of the bow with needle nose pliers. The
areas that may need attention will become apparent to you as you look inside the gun with the grip
off. Remember, the point here is to return the gun to its original condition with respect to its safety
operational features.
Finally, reassemble the gun fully and thoroughly check out the operation. All systems should operate
exactly like they originally did, only now you have the benefit of a trigger that fits your hand better
and has an overtravel stop as well.
ADJUSTMENTS
CHAPTER 7
PAGE 7-1
ADJUSTMENTS
CHAPTER 7
PAGE 7-2
ADJUSTMENTS
CHAPTER 7
PAGE 7-3
Reassemble the pistols basic components and try out the new trigger. If it is still too heavy, try to
bend the sear spring a bit straighter and reassemble and try again. If the trigger has too much creep,
stone a bit more 45 degree clearance on the sear. Pull weight should be set by a trigger pull scale, or
lifting a trigger pull set of weights. We use both in the shop, but I prefer to use the weights.
Trigger pull work is probably the most time consuming job in pistolsmithing. It usually always takes
several times disassembling the pistol and reassembling it to try again. Try to keep this to a minimum
if you are trying to make money on the job. Don't reassemble any more parts than necessary. Put a
punch in the frame to hold the mainspring housing instead of pressing the pin in and out each time.
Do not assemble the grip safety, it is not needed. Do not install the Thumb Safety until the job is
completely done. You should install the slide to keep from snapping the hammer against the bare
frame, but you don't need to install the recoil spring or plug.
Don't try for less than a three pound pull. In fact a good crisp four pound pull will last many years of
shooting and will be absolutely reliable. If you decide to do this type of work for others, be sure to
warn them of the dangers of a .45 with a trigger job. Improper handling and slamming of the slide is
not only abusive; it can be dangerous as well. Proper handling procedures are reviewed in Chapter 3.
Last of all, be sure to check the thumb safety for proper operation. You have changed the height of
the sear and hammer and the thumb safety may not block the sear properly. If there is ANY movement in the sear when the trigger is pulled, you need to install a new thumb safety, or weld up the old
one so it can be properly fitted again. See Chapter 8 for details on this operation.
CHAPTER 8
PAGE 8-1
CHAPTER 8
PAGE 8-2
AS MANUFACTURED
CHAPTER 8
PAGE 8-3
We normally cut this with a 1/4 inch end mill in a milling machine. In this way, you can assure
yourself of a sharp corner for the safety foot to rest on. If you are forced to use hand equipment, do
the very best job you can. This is an important area for function as well as looks.
CHAPTER 9
PAGE 9-1
The 1911 plunger tube installation is a job that most hobbyists have no need to worry about. Like the
front sight, this requires specialized tools. It is included here for informational purposes so that the
reader may become more educated in this particular area and converse with the gunsmith intelligently should the need arise.
First of all, removal of the plunger tube generally requires that it be ruined. The two posts that hold it
on are swaged inside the frame and normally require considerable force to remove. This force could
bend the pins, crush the tube itself, or bend it beyond repair. The hobbyists should never need to
remove this part, but should check the part frequently to make certain that it is secure. If the plunger
tube ever came loose, the spring loaded plunger inside could slip past the thumb safety on the outside, locking it in a safe position. This would not be dangerous, unless of course you wanted to use
the gun to defend your life. Then the consequences would be disasterous.
EJECTOR
CHAPTER 10
PAGE 10-1
EJECTOR
CHAPTER 10
PAGE 10-2
Normally, the correct .45 ejector will fit a .45 slide, and the .38 ejectors will fit .38 Super slides, as
well as 9mm and 10mm. This fit needs to be checked for correct clearance. Do this by installing the
slide on the frame and looking past the ejector into a strong light. You should be able to see light on
each of the three sides. If there is any interference, the gun will probably not work.
EXTRACTOR
CHAPTER 11
PAGE 11-1
This is a very short chapter. Do not make the mistake of assuming that it isn't very important. It is
extremely important that the extractor be adjusted exactly right. If you have a Series 80 pistol, see the
disassembly instructions at the end of chapter one for the additional work you will have to do.
EXTRACTOR
CHAPTER 11
PAGE 11-2
BARREL FIT
CHAPTER 12
PAGE 12-1
Many functioning problems of the 1911 pistol occur after fitting a new barrel. So much so, that I
have actually heard rumors that a match grade barrel is never as reliable as the factory barrel. The
truth is that many aftermarket barrels have been so poorly fitted as to make them unreliable. This
does not have to be the case.
There seems to be a lot of gunsmiths who have not had any instruction on barrel fitting. No wonder,
there is little written on the subject, and even fewer pistolsmiths will take the time to help. The
following is a drawing and instructions that I have shared with many people in the past, and it should
be required knowledge to anybody who works on the 1911 design pistol.
Shown is a sketch of the lower half of a 1911 barrel. This is the most critical part of function and
accuracy and must be given the extreme attention that it deserves.
1. Focus your attention to point A. Assume that the slide stop pin is here and the gun is unlocked.
As the gun begins to cycle forward, the barrel must be completely free of the slide stop at this point.
Only the link will touch.
The slide moves forward and picks up a round from the magazine while the slide stop pin is approximately at point B. This is the most critical point. A smooth transition must be made from A to
C. If there is any binding between these two points, a malfunction is SURE to occur at least once
in a while. This binding is sometimes referred to as barrel bump because of the dent that can be
seen on the front of the poorly fitted lugs after the gun has malfunctioned several times.
Notice that the .183 to .193 radius is moved back .020 from the center of the link pin. This is the
little item that assures you of a smooth feeding cycle. If you dont have a rotary table and milling
machine to cut it perfectly, you can at least now install a link and know what to look for while hand
filing. The goal should be for the slide stop pin to make a smooth transition between points A to
C. Now focus your attention on the .030 flat from C to D. The barrel is locked at zero at point
C, and its further movement on to D, sort of wedges everything except the link in position, while
the gun is locked. More importantly, this .030" allows the slide
to move almost .100" backward
before beginning its downward,
unlocking sequence. This has
the effect of reducing recoil and
allowing the slide to gain speed
for proper cycling. By studying
the print, you should be able to
see the theory of operation. As
the gun comes into battery the
.010" offset radius gently eases
the barrel into a consistent
position for a secure lockup.
This movement is one that
MUST be smooth, because the
bullet is making the transition
from the frame feed ramp to the
barrel feed ramp at this time.
BARREL FIT
CHAPTER 12
PAGE 12-2
BARREL FIT
CHAPTER 12
PAGE 12-3
6. A properly fitted barrel will hit hard on the back of the hood, hard on the C and D area and on
to the rear, and evenly on each side of the top locking grooves. It will NOT touch any place else
except the bushing. You should now be able to press the gun into locked position with only thumb
pressure, but the barrel will not move in any direction.
In the event the slide overhangs the back of the frame after the new barrel is fit, do not worry. This is
easily fixed. Once you are satisfied with the barrel fit internally, go back and recut the back part of
the barrel where the slide stop is hard fitted. This will have the effect of moving the entire assembly
forward. Here, nearly a one to one fit is found. In other words, if the slide overhangs the rear of the
frame .015", take another .015 off of the back of the barrel lugs where the slide stop pin prevents
forward movement. After this adjustment is made, go back and check the link again for play (step 4).
Do not cut or take out of line the other barrel fit areas already done.
BARREL FIT
CHAPTER 12
PAGE 12-4
After the barrel is locked into the slide, consistent accuracy is possible due to the fact that the sights
are mounted on the slide. Consistent reliability is possible due to the fact that the barrel cannot ever
deviate from its intended path. It is wedged into the locking grooves in the top sort of like a Vblock, forced forward by pressure of the bolt face on the rear of the hood, and held vertical by the
properly fitted lower lug. Artificial rests usually do not show the true accuracy potential of any auto
due to the fact the slide and barrel can move while the frame is held firmly. However, hand held
accuracy, or as I prefer to call it, practical accuracy, will be fully realized.
A long link also causes an extremely long arc for the barrel to travel during the locking process. A
longer travel means more chance for trouble to occur.
Due to the demands of mass production, many makers have strayed from this dimension perfection
over the years, but I have had the privilege of examining a few of the guns from the very early years,
and this is how they were done.
The top barrel maker Irv Stone III of Bar-Sto Precision agrees with this theory 100% and cuts their
fine drop-in barrels this way using an expensive machining operation. But they too need a little
perfecting occasionally due to the variations in mass production. We have cut our own drop-inbarrels this way for years with outstanding success.
I came up with these dimensions and the print that I have shared with many pistolsmiths over the
years. But John Browning figured this out over eighty years ago from a blank sheet of paper. The
old boy was a real genius.
BARREL WORK
CHAPTER 13
PAGE 13-1
THROAT
Throating a 1911 barrel is one of the most popular modifications. It is also one of the most commonly botched jobs that frequently results in ruined barrels. The reason is that most people have no
idea of where they are going, or what it is supposed to look like when they are finished. They just
keep grinding until the gun works. Sometimes they never do.
Shown in the photo is a Dremel grinder and a simple guage to check your work. The print for making
your own is shown later in this chapter and I would suggest that you make one before starting. The
wheel is a fine grit 3/8" diameter and is sufficient for this purpose. Make the cut all around the
bottom of the chamber and make it taper out near the sides. Remember, you can always take more
later, and leave some for the finish wheel. The angle is 35 degrees from vertical. Do not stray from
this angle.
BARREL WORK
CHAPTER 13
PAGE 13-2
If your gun won't feed now, it is probably bad ammuntion, or the extractor needs adjustment. It could
also be a bad magazine, or recoil spring. Never under any circumstances continue to cut the throat
deeper in the barrel. You will ruin it.
BARREL WORK
CHAPTER 13
PAGE 13-3
Operation is simple. Turn the wrench with a bit of pressure and it will deepen the chamber. Try the
GO guage and try to set it about .002 to .005" below the barrel hood. This assumes the barrel is
already fitted and the hood is already cut. If your barrel is not fitted, you need to fit it first, and
chamber it last.
BARREL WORK
CHAPTER 13
PAGE 13-4
BEAVERTAIL
CHAPTER 14
PAGE 14-1
First of all, why a Beavertail Grip Safety? Most people will tell you it is to prevent hammer bite.
That is the nasty strawberry that the loose skin above the web of your hand receives when the hammer pinches it on top of the factory grip safety. However, there is more to it than that.
Much of what I have learned about the practical use of the 1911 pistol has come from the Ray
Chapman Shooting Academy. During the early days of my pistolsmithing career, shooters from the
academy would bring their guns over during the evening for a bit of repair of some sort. These
would be mostly the 1911 design, but in the factory configuration, rather than custom pistols. These
shooters would have fired anywhere from 200 to 500 rounds during the day performing the various
exercises taught at the academy.
Loose front sights is a common problem, poor feeding of SWC reloads another, too heavy trigger
pull was a common complaint. But most all shooters had one huge complaint. The doggone grip
safety had actually worn a hole in the top of their hand!
As any shooting school will tell you, it is the grip that is most important to the accuracy. A weak grip
will never produce any accuracy or reliability. You must use a firm grip to become one with the
pistol. Naturally, the better you can get your hand into the pistol, the better this bond becomes.
However, the harder you get your hand into a factory pistol, the more pronounced the grip safety digs
into your skin. With the normal recoil pushing this area deeper, it is not long before the skin becomes irritated and broken.
To solve these problems, grip safeties have been designed that expand the safeties width to match
that of the entire back of the gun. The back of the safeties are rounded, rather than square, thus the
name Beavertail was born. Since the frame of the pistol was part of the problem, and the fact that
the original safety was fitted inside the frame, provision needs to be made on the frame to allow the
new Beavertail safety to fit around the outside, or even with, the outside of the frame.
Please be aware that there are grip safeties on the market that do not require any frame modifications.
This is sort of a half way fix and may be suitable for some shooters who want a cheap fast way to get
a wider part on the gun. Listening to the market demand, Colt has offered an improved type grip
safety on their Enhanced Models. Kings, and Wilsons also offer various types of drop-in grip
safeties. One point of clarification here. The word drop-in refers to the fact that no frame modification is necessary. It is still a grip SAFETY and needs to be fitted to the trigger bow to insure safe
operation.
BEAVERTAIL
CHAPTER 14
PAGE 14-2
BEAVERTAIL
CHAPTER 14
PAGE 14-3
This book is written assuming you only have simple tools to work with, so we will continue with
what is available. Once the 1/4" radius is cut on the rear of the frame, the new Beavertail can now be
fitted to the frame as shown in photo two. Notice in this photo how the part fits inside the frame
slightly at the area where the inside of the web of your hand goes. These areas are shown being
trimmed down to the new Beavertail level in photo three with a pneumatic grinder holding a 3/4"
sanding drum.. This is what makes this part work so darn good, it really gets your hand deeper into
the gun.
Removal of these protruding areas is what allows the gun to set lower in the hand, and as we all
know, the lower the gun and barrel axis in relation to the hand, the less the felt recoil and the more
natural pointing the gun is. Notice that even the thumb safety has been slightly trimmed for more
comfort. The back of the frame, newly contoured, now fits the hand much more comfortably, with
the entire width of the frame in contact with the hand evenly. No better fit or comfort can be had!
We cant forget the all important
area that contacts the trigger and
actually blocks its movement. This
is a grip SAFETY, and is supposed
to function as such. When the
safety is released from hand tension,
as if the gun was dropped, the right
hand leaf on the sear spring pushes
the grip safety back and allows the
foot on the grip safety to block the
rearward travel of the trigger bow.
The photo shows the proper angle
(parallel to the bottom of the grip
safety) for fitting the foot to block
the trigger bow. Most aftermarket
manufacturers supply .005 to .015
extra material for fitting to any type
aftermarket trigger.
Fitted properly, an UNLOADED gun can be checked by pushing the thumb safety to the fire position, and after checking the chamber to make sure the gun is unloaded, and pointed in a safe direction, attempt to pull trigger. The hammer should not fall because the grip safety foot will block the
trigger bow from rearward movement. While keeping slight pressure on the trigger, depress the grip
safety, and the hammer should fall. Do not use the gun if the grip safety does not function properly.
Further, do not let anyone talk you into deactivating the grip safety even if you think you know how.
Do not ask your gunsmith to deactivate your grip safety. The risks in society today are simply not
worth it. In the firearm industry we have problems enough with the liberal attack on firearms ownership, without the additional burden of liability lawsuits.
If the reassembled gun passed all safety tests; the frame, Beavertail, and Thumb safety are ready to
be final polished and then glass bead finished and reblued. Glass beads in the grade BT-8 will match
the factory finish perfectly.
PORT
CHAPTER 15
PAGE 15-1
PORT
CHAPTER 15
PAGE 15-2
PORT
CHAPTER 15
PAGE 15-3
Here is the finished product compared with a factory Colt Gold Cup. Done properly, the only area that
is very visible that needs to be reblued is the scallop. This can be touched up with cold blue. It's finely
sanded surface will take the blue very well.
SERRATE REAR
CHAPTER 16
PAGE 16-1
SERRATE REAR
CHAPTER 16
PAGE 16-2
Now do the same operation on the other side of the slide. Nothing is different except you are working on the far side. Keep the lines parallel with the bottom of the slide and your work will look
professional.
A slight 45 degree chamfer on the edge looks nice and prevents burrs. This is easily done with a fine
cut file. Now you can examine the edges of your grooves and see if any need to be cut any deeper.
The finished job will look very professional and serve to eliminate glare from your sight picture.
Normally, this would get a light glass bead finish and complete reblue. If you are a home craftsman,
cold blue finish until you can get the gun to a gunsmith for a hot blue.
CHAPTER 17
PAGE 17-1
There's not a lot to say about a firing pin stop other than the fact that it needs to fit snug inside the
slide and tight against the extractor. If you have one from Colt that has a '2' on it, it is oversize, and
you may have problems fitting another.
As always, when fitting a firing pin stop, go slowly, you can always take more later. If it will not go
in easily, you will need a sharp fine cut file that is safe on one side. Try to determine where the
excess material is and remove it with firm strokes. Do not file just anywhere and expect it to maybe
work next time. It won't. Find the area that is too tight by tapping it in with a brass punch, and then
remove metal in the tight areas only.
The smart way to do this job is to only work with the slide and firing pin stop. Once the stop will fit
into the slide completely, then remove it and install the extractor and attempt to install the stop again.
If it won't reinstall, the problem is the extractor. Once those three parts will all install, remove the
stop again, and this time install the firing pin and spring. Don't forget to try the whole assembly on
the frame to check for interference with the frame mounted ejector.
If your gun is a Colt or Para-Ordnance Series 80 with the additional firing pin plunger, you will have
to modify the firing pin stop to allow additional clearance for the plunge lifter. See the chapter on
Series 80 parts.
SPRINGS
CHAPTER 18
PAGE 18-1
SPRINGS
At a recent match I helped a shooter through a fit of malfunctions his gun was having. He had
changed both bullets and powder charges and was now having failures to feed. He was swapping
recoil springs for all he was worth, but still an occasional failure to feed occurred. He was trying to
figure out which spring to use with a lighter bullet. One of his buddies said heavier, another said
lighter. I ignored the spring question and looked for the feed problem. I noticed his ammo had a too
short overall length, and a strip of lead around the mouth.
All three shooters had overlooked the ammo as a cause for the malfunctions, and went straight for
the mechanical parts of the gun. It was assumed that swapping springs would make the gun work
somehow no matter what the ammo looked like. Always look first to the ammo as a cause of malfunction. Only after ruling out any ammo problem, should you attempt changes in the mechanical
parts of the gun.
This gun probably has a heavy spring that
works perfectly well since the gun has the
resistance of both hands of the shooter. When
the gun is held by only one hand, or held
weakly, the arm absorbs some precious slide
velocity, and the gun has a malfunction known
as a smokestack, or stovepipe. This is where
the spent case is caught by the slide before it
can clear the gun. This is simply a failure to
eject by insufficient slide travel.
What weight recoil spring should you use? This will vary with bullet weight, velocity of the load,
and shooter strength. Usually, the spent cases should land anywhere from five to fifteen feet away.
If the empty cases are falling on your feet, sooner or later you will have a failure because the recoil
spring is too heavy, or the load you are using for that spring is too light.
People with small hands or weak wrists can help their gun function by building up muscles in this
area. You should hold on to the gun so tight that the checkering makes an imprint in your hand.
Another bonus, when a shooter holds on to a gun this tight, the trigger pull seems lighter. If you
apply these principles of reliability, your scores are sure to go up and your malfunctions will go
down.
Springs are a source of great controversy everywhere pistol shooters gather. Heavier, lighter, replacement time, etc. Lets reduce it down to what really matters, reliability. Usually its best to go
with your pistolsmiths advice on replacement weight and time in a custom gun and keep a spare or
two on hand. Another suggestion is to check the length and wire diameter of any different recoil
springs and write it down in a safe place. This information will be useful when you mix up the
springs. Also note the length of the springs when they are new. If the recoil spring show signs of
collapsing with use, it should be replaced. If it has fired 5000 rounds, but is still the same length as
your new replacement, then there would be no reason to change it.
SPRINGS
CHAPTER 18
PAGE 18-2
I don't ever remember having to replace a sear spring because it was worn out. They are pretty much
good forever. They are frequently ruined, however. The same goes for magazine catch springs. The
things are just not stressed enough to ever cause any problem. Mainsprings, do wear out due to age
and use and should be replaced. The best way to determine if your spring is any good is to just
purchase a replacement, and then compare the new one with your old one. If the new one is more
than 10% longer than the old one, replace it. If they are almost exactly the same length, there is no
need to replace it at all. Firing pins are subject to failure. I have seen many break, and in my opinion,
they are all too weak to begin with. Most experienced pistolsmiths suggest a heavy duty firing pin
spring, and replace them also if they start getting too short.
MAGAZINE
CHAPTER 19
PAGE 19-1
One advantage of a revolver is that if you have any of it, you have all of it. Not so with an auto
pistol. None of the doggone things will work without the magazine. By the way, I always prefer to
call the removable portion a magazine, rather than a clip. To me, the term clip brings to mind the
old M-1 Garand clips that flew out of the gun immediately after the last shot. A magazine, by my
definition, is an assembly of components that when used together, will feed the pistol fresh rounds as
fired cases are ejected from the gun. A clip is exactly what the name implies, a single component that
will hold rounds together until needed.
The fact that a magazine has components suggests the need to maintain the assembly. A magazine is
probably the most overlooked part of an auto pistol, and possibly the most abused. Magazines are
frequently dropped, either accidentally, on purpose, or during rapid reloads. Sometimes they are
dropped with rounds still inside. This will compress the rounds on top of the spring on impact, and
during decompression, the rounds are slammed into the delicate feed lips, possibly deforming them
forever. Try to avoid dropping magazines that still have rounds loaded in them.
Usually, they pick up a bit of dirt or sand, or even small gravel particles during their stay on the
ground. Sometimes, heaven forbid, they are stepped on and ground into the dirt. They are frequently
left loaded, compressing their springs to the max, and left unattended for up to years. And nearly
always, the practical shooter will slam them into the gun with authority. All these actions can be
abusive to what could rightly be called the most delicate part of an autoloading pistol.
I have known many shooters who cared for their guns with the greatest attention, but never once
thought about disassembling a magazine. Once I asked a shooter, who was looking for a cause of
malfunction, if he ever disassembled and cleaned his magazines. He replied he had the type that
could not be disassembled! Friends, I have never seen a magazine that couldnt be disassembled.
Here is how to disassemble a standard magazine with a welded on base. I selected the welded on
base for three reasons. One, its our brand and was easily available. Two, it represents most types.
And three, if your magazine has a removable base, you will probably know it and can easily figure
out how to take it apart.
First, assemble a few tools. You will need a punch or nail that will fit into the holes in the magazine.
You will also need a blunt object to depress the follower. I have used a magnetic screwdriver with no
bit installed, but a pencil would do. A length of heavy wire to make a hook type tool will be needed
as well. Follow the photo as a guide for making your own.
MAGAZINE
CHAPTER 19
PAGE 19-2
To disassemble the magazine, depress the follower with the blunt object and press it down to a point
where it can be seen just below the third hole from the top. Then let it raise back up until you can
capture the spring just below it. Insert the punch completely through the magazine and release the
pressure on the follower. Now the spring is captured and the follower can be removed.
MAGAZINE
CHAPTER 19
Once the follower is removed, turn the magazine upside down, so the spring doesnt fly
away, and pull the pin out to release the spring.
PAGE 19-3
MAGAZINE
CHAPTER 19
PAGE 19-4
Clean the spring, follower, and inside of the magazine tube thoroughly with solvent and reassemble
in reverse order. Install the spring first and make sure the raised portion of the spring faces toward
the front of the magazine. Then depress the spring into the tube with your blunt object so that it can
be captured with the punch the third hole down.
Now install the follower by angling it through the front of the open feed area, and work it under the
feed lips themselves. Do not force anything, or try to spread apart the feed lips. All followers will
reinstall with no force! Once inside the magazine, press it down on top of the spring with your blunt
object and then pull out the punch holding the spring. Thats all there is to it!
Lubrication is up to the individual user. Most magazines will work dry. I prefer a bit of very light
lubrication, but would suggest passing it up if you frequently shoot and drop magazines in a sandy
area. Richard Heinie shoots on a range in central Illinois that is covered with sand. They never
lubricate their magazines and must clean them after every match. I shoot on a one inch gravel covered range and hardly ever bother to clean a magazine, but I do lightly lube the followers frequently.
However, all magazines will accumulate burnt powder and bullet lube residue, therefore they should
be cleaned regularly. Now that you know how, you dont have an excuse not to.
CHAPTER 20
PAGE 20-1
CHAPTER 20
PAGE 20-2
2. The slide should be cut off on the rear of the plug area an amount equal to the thickness of the
shoulder. The plugs are furnished with a .062 thick shoulder. I usually cut about .065 off of the slide
to make sure that the plug shoulder will clear slightly and not contact the frame during firing. Remove metal from the rear of the slide spring area equal to the thickness of the shoulder on the new
recoil plug. This is where the vertical mill would be handy. You could simply clamp up the slide
upside down in a mill vise, and make a straight cut across the back equal to the thickness of the
shoulder. Assuming the vise was mounted on the mill, five minutes max. However, if you are a
bench workman without a mill, never fear. You can do just as good a job, it will just take a little
longer.
Using what ever measuring device you have, mark the slide an amount equal to the thickness of the
shoulder so you will have a line to file up to. Clamp the slide in a vise padded with cardboard or
leather. If I have to do any filing, I prefer to press down, rather than any other way, so I suggest
clamping only the muzzle of the slide in the vise, allowing the rest to stick straight up.
File carefully and be sure to keep the rear end square in all directions. If you have done a good job
laying out your guide line, this should be no problem. Dont forget, you can always use the new
recoil spring as a check gauge by trying its fit often. Once you get very close, you will begin to
notice a slight interference with the radius between the body of the recoil plug and its shoulder.
3. Round off the inside of this area so that no sharp corner can cut into the radius in the recoil plug
shoulder area. The radius on the recoil plug needs to be there, so the slide needs to have a slightly
larger radius cut on it for clearance. This is best done with a small hand grinder and about a 1/8" to
3/8" grinding wheel. Try to make it even all the way around, and do not grind away all of your
square area. Properly done, there is a small flat left all the way around the back of the slide.
4. Make sure the plug fits flush without binding and will lock the bushing in place. I cant say much
more about this line other than not to be afraid to tap on the back of the bushing shoulder with a
plastic hammer to make sure it is seated fully. You could also reinstall the bushing and make sure
the new plug will lock the bushing in the vertical position.
5. Assemble the spring on the rod and the plug on the spring. The closed end of the spring goes on
the rod first. Dont put it on backwards, it is the sign of a real amateur.
6. Compress the plug and spring down and hold in place with the take down pin. There is an easy
way to do this. Put the recoil spring in the slide backwards, and place the assembled rod and spring
in backwards. Now you can use the slide as a handle and press the head of the guide rod into your
work bench. As you do this, check out one important point. Make sure the recoil spring will collapse FULLY into the recoil spring plug. More than one gun has been tied up, or broken by the
shooter using an oversize recoil spring that will not collapse into the recoil plug. Upon firing, the
force usually pushes the front out of the recoil plug and ruins it. Once satisfied that there is actually
room for the spring, insert the take down pin into the guide rod and let the pressure off the assembly.
If the take down pin is centered, you should be able to remove the assembly from the front of the
gun.
CHAPTER 20
PAGE 20-3
7. Assemble barrel, bushing, and slide, and insert guide assembly in place. Now you can reinstall
the barrel and bushing in the slide. You will notice that there is just room to install the new guide
assembly underneath the barrel.
8. Assemble complete top half on frame of gun and reinstall slide stop. Self explanatory, but pay
attention for this last step. It is most important!
9. Make sure recoil plug is fully seated into the slide, then pull back slide to release take down pin.
By now you are familiar with the recoil shoulder on the new recoil plug. It is most important that
this shoulder be seated fully home. It is easy to check, because the barrel bushing will not be
locked, and there will be a large gap where the shoulder should be. MAKE SURE THE SHOULDER IS SEATED FULLY. If you fire the gun with the shoulder unseated, the force of the slide will
seat the plug for sure. Of course it wont be lined up and will cut a neat divot in the side ruining it
for good. If the worst does happen, dont forget we sell replacement plugs.
Now that the installation is complete, you can shoot in complete confidence and enjoy a bit of
additional muzzle weight. You should also notice that the action of the gun is a good bit smoother
due to the fact that the short recoil spring is not binding inside the slide any more.
TROUBLESHOOTING
CHAPTER 21
PAGE 21-1
FAILURE TO FEED, AMMO NOT VISIBLE, BUT SLIDE STILL NOT COMPLETELY CLOSED
SO GUN WILL FIRE.
BAD AMMUNITION. Poor reloads, improper overall loaded length, ammo that is not taper crimped,
cartridge rims that are oversize. Solution, change ammunition, improve reloads, see reloading chapter for correct ammo specifications.
CHAMBER LEADED, OR CLOGGED WITH BULLET JACKET MATERIAL. Solution, clean
chamber.
WEAK RECOIL SPRING. Solution, replace with correct weight for power of ammo used.
FAILURE TO EJECT FIRED CASE FROM GUN, ALSO CALLED STOVE PIPE OR SMOKE
STACK MALFUNCTION.
POOR GRIP. Recoil operated pistols require a firm grip to make them operate. Solution, make
certain the gun is fired with a locked wrist, holding the gun with sufficient strength.
RECOIL SPRING. The recoil spring may be too heavy for the power of the ammo used. Solution,
replace recoil spring with correct weight for ammo used.
LOSS OF SLIDE VELOCITY. Check for anything that could be slowing the slide down on its
rearward stroke. I.E. thumb rubbing on the side, lack of lubrication on slide rails, recoil spring
binding inside the slide, etc. Solution, correct drag problem.
EXTRACTOR TENSION TOO LIGHT. Solution, replace or adjust extractor.
BROKEN EJECTOR. Solution, replace ejector
TROUBLESHOOTING
CHAPTER 21
PAGE 21-2
GUN FEEDS BUT HAMMER WILL NOT FALL TO CAUSE THE GUN TO FIRE
TRIGGER STUCK BACK. The trigger may be stuck in the rearward position due to a lack of lubrication, dirt, or a poor fitting job. Solution, check the trigger fit and correct. See the chapter on trigger
fitting.
DISCONNECTOR STUCK DOWN. The disconnector may be stuck down due to dirt, or a lack of
lubrication. Also, a sear spring that has the middle leaf too long may cause the same thing. Solution,
check the disconnector for free operation, and check the sear spring middle leaf. It should not be able
to come above the disconnector's rear angle.
THUMB SAFETY IMPROPERLY FITTED. If the problem occurs intermittently during firing, the
thumb safety could be riding up and blocking the sear, even though the slide is still free from the
safety. Solution, increase the tension on the safety plunger by modifying the safety. See the chapter
on thumb safety fitting.
HAMMER FALLS, BUT GUN FAILS TO FIRE.
BAD AMMO. Primer missing, primer improperly seated, or oil soaked preventing ignition. Solution,
replace ammo.
SLIDE NOT CLOSED. If the slide failed to close completely, the hammer could hit the firing pin
stop and not hit the firing pin with enough pressure to cause ignition. Solution, check ammo, check
for complete slide closure before firing the next round. Chamber could be leaded in the case mouth
area.
MAINSPRING WEAK OR BROKEN. Solution, replace mainspring.
BROKEN FIRING PIN. Solution, replace firing pin.
BROKEN FIRING PIN SPRING. Solution, replace broken spring.
GUN DOUBLES OR FIRES MORE THAN ONE SHOT FOR EACH TRIGGER PULL.
TRIGGER JOB POORLY DONE. This could be the hammer hooks stoned below .020, the sear
angle stoned wrong, or too much clearance, or the sear spring leaves misadjusted. Solution, redo the
trigger job correctly, or replace the bad parts.
DISCONNECTOR STICKING DOWN, AND THE SEAR DRAGGING. This could be a combination of problems that can only be solved by examining each part and verifying its proper function.
BROKEN SEAR. Solution, replace sear.
BROKEN HAMMER. If the half cock notch broke off of the hammer and the hammer fell from the
sear, the gun would double. Solution, replace broken parts.
TROUBLESHOOTING
CHAPTER 21
PAGE 21-3
TROUBLESHOOTING
CHAPTER 21
PAGE 21-4
TROUBLESHOOTING
CHAPTER 21
PAGE 21-5
FEED RAMP
Make sure the angle in the barrel is the same as the feed ramp in the frame coming out of the magazine well. This is done by holding the slide back far enough to see, but not far enough back to lock
into the open position.
SIGHTS
Look at the sights and inspect for anything that might indicate a problem. Such as, a front sight that
is far lower than any other you have seen. This could be an indication that the barrel fits far too high
in the gun, or is fitted wrong. Another dead give away is a far off centered rear sight. This could
mean that the slide is bored off center, or merely that the owner is a poor shot and knows nothing
about how to sight in a gun.
EXTRA WORK DONE ON THE GUN
Be especially wary of a gun that has had a lot of work done on it, and no makers name. Most all
quality pistolsmiths are proud of their work and will put their name on the gun in some fashion.
However, there are instances where the customer wants no additional names added and it is left off.
If these guns are for sale, the owner should be prepared to show a copy of the original invoice showing not only the price of the work done, but the serial number of the gun. I have noticed in my experience that most of the bogus guns sold come from gun shows. I have found many quality guns at
gun shows in my life, but the number of bogus guns is greater by at least a margin of ten to one. If
you choose to purchase used guns at gun shows, be careful.
MISMATCHED PARTS
Always pass a gun that appears to be stock, but has had other stock parts obviously swapped. These
type of guns will be apparent for instance, by bright blue parts installed on a glass bead finished
frame, or nickel parts installed on a blue gun. Grips are not included as mismatched parts because
they are frequently swapped and have little to do with the function of the gun.
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-1
AMMUNITION
Reloads are the rule for most shooters because the cost of factory ammo prohibits most of them from
doing the amount of shooting they would like. The reloads themselves are not the prime cause of
malfunctions, but poor workmanship from the person doing the reloading.
The shooters in this country are very lucky to have just about any kind of reloading component
readily available to them. This applies to reloading books as well. These books should be treated as
the Bibles of reloading and the ammo assembled exactly as recommended. Especially concerning
the outer diameter and overall length.
Auto pistols have been designed to feed with a certain diameter and length cartridge and the smart
shooter will stick closely to these dimensions with a good pair of calipers close by for frequent
checks. (See photos on page 3 of this chapter) Always taper crimp autoloader cartridges gently to
the spec shown in the manual. Do not overcrimp thinking if a little does good, a little more does
better. Over crimping reduces bullet diameter, hurts accuracy and could be the cause of malfunction
by swelling the case below the crimp.
Primers deserve close attention because they are the spark plug of the cartridge. You probably think
Ill mention a favorite brand, but to tell you the truth, Ive never noticed much difference. The smart
shooter will not switch brands without checking the chronograph results. You may not be able to tell
any difference by shooting, but the chronograph will point out even the slightest change. Handling
of primers is very important and is one small area that should never be overlooked.
Never handle primers with your fingers! Even the slightest lubricant can affect primer performance.
Carefully dump the primers into the flipper tray and load them into the primer tube from there. Seat
primers carefully and try for the same pressure each time. If the seating pressure feels light or heavy,
there is probably something wrong with the case. Better drop this round into the practice jug.
Bullets are always a problem. Bullet casters are facing stiff competition and are trying to cut their
costs any way possible. The most important component in a cast bullet is tin. Tin alloys the lead and
antimony and allows a hard bullet to take the rifling without soldering to the bore.
Unfortunately, tin is the most expensive part and therefore the first place to look when costs need to
be cut. Hard bullets are an absolute necessity in an autoloader. The bullets must not deform on the
feed ramp, solder to the bore, or lead the chamber. They must never be loose enough to move during
the feeding cycle. To do so acts exactly like an automobile shock absorber and really brings things to
a halt. The only suggestion here is to keep trying different makers until you find one that satisfies
you.
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-2
You all know the makers and what the favorites are, but do you know exactly what your gun will do
with another brand? Dont be afraid to try another combination because the results might surprise
you and besides that, the practice will do you good. Frequent chronograph checks here can help your
scores. Different lots of powder seem to have slightly different results so frequently check the
velocity of your ammo. Dont check just two or three rounds. To have any meaningful data about
your loads, at least 40 rounds need to be checked.
One time the best recommendation was to shoot the lightest load that would consistently make the
IPSC power factor. This advice should be slightly modified as we have learned that some pistols
show a very favorable accuracy gain with only a slight increase in the powder charge. A slightly
heavier load would have unnoticeably more recoil, but the accuracy gain will be realized with higher
scores on the longer targets.
Frequently new reloaders make poor choices of powder, especially of the burning rate. Choose a
powder that will fit into your velocity needs. Use a fast burning powder for light loads, a medium
burning powder for 45ACP IPSC major loads, and a slow powder for heavy loaded 38 Super, 10mm
or hunting loads.
What about your brass? Everyone in all the shooting games scrounges brass, but how good is it?
One can go overboard trying to save money by shooting his brass until it splits, but there is no need
to buy all new brass either. All the smart shooter needs to do is inspect the brass BEFORE its
loaded and look for any problems. Now is a good time to sort brands as well. I always prefer to
shoot all one brand at a match, saving the miscellaneous rejects for practice.
What do you look for? Split necks, badly beaten rims, and other problems like the oversize primer
pockets mentioned earlier. If there is a black smudge around the primer pocket, it is a pretty safe bet
this round should be discarded. 45 ACP rounds have a tendency for the rim to grow in diameter after
many reloads. This is probably due to the bolt face on the big Colt mashing them over during feeding, thus increasing their diameter. When the diameter increases to a point where they will no longer
go into the slide, you have a failure to feed. What a shooter should do is sort all his brass and keep
all the best stuff for matches, then use everything else for practice ammo.
The first thing you need to compete in IPSC is a reliable pistol! These words of wisdom were
spoken to me several years ago by the first IPSC World Champion, Ray Chapman. He had learned
long ago the importance of reliable equipment and how to make it even more reliable by proper use.
The DVC symbol in the IPSC logo is Latin, and stands for Speed, Power, and Accuracy. Also, it
should include something about reliability, for without that important commodity, winning is impossible.
Everyones goal should be complete reliability, but with action type shooting growing as fast as it is,
there are many new people who have not yet learned how to get the most out of their equipment.
These suggestions center on the popular 1911 design, but the basic ideas apply to any autoloader.
Have you ever noticed that the best shooters never seem to have any malfunctions, and new shooters
hardly ever finish a match without one? There are several reasons for this. Lets look at the reliability problem in detail concerning ammunition.
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-3
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-4
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-5
A later inspection of the reloaded ammo revealed several pieces of brass that had high primers. You
dont have to be a rocket scientist to speculate that the primer probably was ignited when it hit the
bolt face of the revolver.
Another frequent cause of blowups in autopistols is unbelievably, the result of a failure to feed. Let's
say that the shooter is having a bit of difficulty feeding a round. At least two of the shooting schools I
know of instruct you to slap the back of the slide whenever a failure to feed occurs. The thought
being that this is the quickest way to close the gun so that it can be fired. However, this trick works
best when the round is already fed into the chamber and the slide is lacking only a little bit from
closing.
But far too often, the slides are slapped from the rear, or simply pulled back and let go several times,
while a round still has the bullet in contact with the FRAME feedramp. In these cases, the bullet is
usually crammed further into the case, instead of the desired result of forcing it into the chamber.
This situation of a bullet crammed back into the case can be disastrous to you as I will soon explain.
A better solution, although more time consuming, is to lock the slide back, and then slap the bottom
of the magazine. This action should pop the stubborn round up into a better position for feeding, and
then maybe the slide will take it in the chamber properly.
Or maybe not. Full reliability will not be found until the real cause of the nose down condition is
found. Usually, it is due to a bullet being seated too deep causing a short overall length problem, but
if the problem occurs with factory ammo known to be reliable, the cause could be the magazine. Any
drag on the follower will reduce the spring pressure and will cause the first cartridge to nose down
and will contribute to a failure to feed. Always check the follower for freedom of movement when a
nose down condition is found, and the ammo is known to be the correct length. Also, excessive
spring pressure could cause a nose down condition. This condition is found on high capacity magazines such as the ten round type where the spring pressure must be high to feed the last round successfully.
Several years ago the American Rifleman did a test on the pressure effects of a .38 Special round
with the bullet being seated too deep. Several pressure tests were run, some with the bullet seated
hard against the powder charge. Sadly, I couldnt find the issue for researching this article, but my
memory tells me that pressures escalated tremendously. Far more pressures were generated than what
would be required to blow up a handgun. Some powders were more sensitive in this respect, but the
effect that air space has in a handgun cartridge should not be underestimated.
As I recall, the writer was trying to duplicate a blowup of a .38 Special revolver with a double
charge. Although a double charge is a nasty situation, 148 grain wadcutters loaded one on top of
another was far worse, and a bullet pressed tightly against a powder charge was worse yet as far as a
pressure spike was concerned.
Back to the cause of an autos poor feeding problems with a nose down condition. This is usually
caused by the bullet being seated too deep, or too short an overall length. I might expand a bit on that
as I seem to run into a lot of confusion there where the 1911 is concerned.
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-6
These figures apply to the 1911 .45 ACP round, but the principle applies to other auto rounds as well.
In the beginning the .45 ACP round was originally designed for the 230 grain hardball load. This
load had a rounded nose and the specification was 1.275 -.020". In laymans terms this means that
round nose ammo that falls anywhere from 1.255" to 1.275" would be correct. It also calls for a .473
MAX dimension over the case mouth, but we all know that .470 to .471 works best in the match
grade barrels and chambers we all like so much. But the point here is that this is the overall length of
a round nose hardball round, and the hardball round doesnt hit the feedramp on its end where one
would measure it with a pair of calipers.
Since the feedramp is angled, and the round is angled up a bit, (hopefully) the round hits on the edge
of the bullet. If you reloaded a Semi-Wadcutter bullet, which most of us do, the overall loaded length
would be different. It would be shorter due to the fact that the SWC bullet has a flat nose, and a pair
of dial calipers measures this flat nose, not the edge of the bullet that hits the feed ramp. Thus the
cartridge length will be shorter with a SWC bullet, but the point of impact on the feedramp needs to
be the same as the hardball round if we expect the gun to work perfectly.
Question is, how do we easily find this new loaded length? Its pretty simple with a CAD drawing
system. Just draw up a hardball round, and draw your bullet with its nose diameter inside the
hardball round. The point where the two diameters are identical would be approximately the point
where the SWC round should be loaded. Never mind if you dont have a CAD system. I have one,
and have already done the drawing for you. Examine the drawing and see how different length
bullets will hit the feedramp in the same place. And in fact, should hit the feedramp identically for
proper functioning.
The wise shooter will guesstimate where the front diameter would fall if it were superimposed on the
profile of a hardball round, and set his overall length here. As you can see from the drawing, this
SWC length is always shorter than the length of a hardball round, and could be considerably shorter
than the 1.250" length specified. Although, 1.250 is a commonly accepted length for a SWC round.
Never seat the larger diameter of a .45 SWC round flush with the case mouth. This almost certainly
results in a failure to feed.
This correct length guesstimate could be made by first noting the diameter of the SWC bullet you
intend to use at its nose. Then holding the calipers at this position, lay them on a standard hardball
round. Then note the amount of distance from the end of the bullet to this diameter. This distance
would be subtracted from the 1.275" hardball length.
As one might imagine, the same principle applies to the popular hollow point rounds. One should not
seat a hollow point round at 1.275", because of the fact the hollow point produces a flat point, the
overall loaded length would be shorter in order to place the feedramp strike point at the same place.
In any case, you would do well to keep a hardball round nearby your loading bench and compare it
carefully with your reload.
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-7
Another problem I frequently run into is the poor choice of powders. Greatest reliability of the entire
system results in the proper balance of the load. I always suggest using a fast burning powder, such
as Bullseye or 700-X, for light loads, a medium rate powder for medium loads such as 231 or AA#5,
and a slow burning powder, like Blue Dot for the heaviest loads. It seems the tendency is to use one
powder for all to eliminate confusion. However, when a powder such as 231 is reduced to a load of
4.0 grains, the result is usually undesirable. In fact most reloading manuals suggest a minimum
starting load that is higher than this. A far better light load would be 4.2 Bullseye, and use the 231 for
a medium/heavy load of 5.5 grains. Same goes for the heavier loads. 6.3 grains of 231 would give
about the same pressure as 10.5 grains of Blue Dot, but the Blue Dot would give 150 feet per second
more velocity. All of the above loads are using 200 grain bullets directly from the Speer manual, and
are illustrated here not as loading data, but merely as comparative data to make a point.
It is important to recognize here that the bullet velocity is directly relational to the resultant slide
velocity, which directly affects functioning. Chamber pressure, in itself, has little to do with slide
velocity. I suggest keeping bullet velocity high, and chamber pressure low. Accomplish this by
choosing your powders wisely, and matching the powder with the velocity you are trying to achieve.
Also, improve reliability by seating the bullets to an exact length, that will match the feedramp strike
point on a hardball round.
Many barrels are ruined by firing a reload with no powder at all. The force of the primer alone will
push the bullet a few inches down the bore. The unaware shooter cant figure out just what happened, so he pulls the slide back to reveal a case that looks like it has been fired. When the slide is
released, a new round is fed from the magazine and the stage is set for a blow-up.
When this new round is fired, the air pressure between the two bullets ruins the barrel instantly. Both
bullets are blown out the muzzle usually, and it is possible that the shooter could continue without
knowing anything is wrong. It all depends on the particular point where the barrel is bulged. If it was
bulged near the front, the barrel bushing will not go over the barrel, and the gun is seized. However, I
have seen cases with the .45 auto, and with all revolvers where the gun would continue to function
and shoot as normal. The only cure is a new barrel and a strong reloading lesson.
The moral of the story is: Be careful to the extreme when reloading pistol ammunition, and whenever
any doubt is realized, scrap the whole lot of ammo and start over. It is far cheaper to scrap ammo
than a good gun. Also, whenever a failure to fire is experienced, stop immediately, unload the pistol
completely and examine the barrel for any obstruction. Youve got no excuse not to while practicing,
and there is no match worth ruining a good pistol over.
RELOADING
CHAPTER 22
PAGE 22-8
Correct overall loaded length must take into account the shape of the bullet, so that the strike point of
that bullet on the feedramp will be similar to a hardball round.
DROP-IN PARTS
CHAPTER 23
PAGE 23-1
Ive noticed that you and other manufacturers offer many parts that are advertised as drop-in. Can I
be certain that these parts will fit and perform on my gun without fitting?
Outstanding question, and Im glad you asked. The 1911 design has been around since, of course,
1911. Actually 1910, but why quibble. There are darn few other items that can brag that they have
been in production as long. Mere longevity speaks volumes for this design of handgun.
Known as the Chevy Short Block of handguns, there is little that hasnt been done with the gun.
And since the gun has been made throughout several different time periods, and by several different
manufacturers, a few differences exist.
These differences are hard to document, but we can discuss a few areas and hopefully the reader will
begin to get an idea of what to expect on the particular piece he owns. For instance, years ago, the
gun factories employed workers that were probably qualified to be gunsmiths for the assembly of the
guns. These workers could take a sear and hammer and do a fairly decent trigger job on assembly,
knowing how much metal to remove from each part for a safe and proper fit.
In my collection, I am fortunate to own several pieces from the fifties where such evidence of hand
fitting is the norm. The mere fact that these pieces have survived the test of time without tampering
is amazing. These guns feel much like a custom pistol feels today after someone from the
Pistolsmiths Guild has spent countless hours over them. The slide and trigger fit and hammer fall
sound far different from todays production gun, and a vigorous shaking reveals no noise of a loose
slide clanking against the frame.
The firearm manufacturers, at least those still in business, realized that in order to make a product
cheap enough to sell, they had to cut costs. One of the highest costs of any business is hourly labor,
so that was a logical starting place. The parts needed to be manufactured so that they could be
assembled into a working gun with little or no hand fitting.
The advent of CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines helped tremendously. These machines
will turn out nearly the same part time after time. Also these machines can be programmed to run
several different parts merely by switching tools, program, and holding fixtures. Such installations
are known as flexible manufacturing systems.
But to insure that, for instance, every barrel would fit every slide, and that assembly would fit every
frame, most companies adopted a policy of Statistical Product Control, or SPC. A quick explanation of SPC goes like this. First accept the fact that no manufacturing process makes exactly the
same product twice. If you think so, your inspection system needs help.
Realizing this, one needs to set up a tolerance system to establish limits to work within. A fairly
tight tolerance would be inside a barrel where one might expect a .45 barrel to be .4515 inside the
grooves. However, the manufacturer would not throw away a barrel that was .4512, or .4519.
Therefore the tolerance could be possibly +/- .0004. A fairly loose tolerance would be the slide fit to
the frame. Here +/- .003 might be acceptable. The outside of the barrel might be +/- .003, and the
inside of the slide might be +/- .003.
DROP-IN PARTS
CHAPTER 23
PAGE 23-2
Now when this sample pistol is assembled, it might have the largest slide (+.003), on the smallest
frame (-.003), with the smallest barrel (-.003). Add up all the tolerances and never mind the fact that
some are plus and some are minus, and you have a 1911 with a lot of slop in the barrel. Since barrel
fit is 75% of the accuracy in a 1911 design, you see why a factory gun may not shoot as well as a
custom hand fitted version.
Those of us in the custom part business try to make our parts oversize in the areas that need to be
fitted, and to a high tolerance fit in the areas that dont need special fitting. Now we get into an area
where we need to decide what dimension to make, for instance, a pin. A new Colt might make the
hole .157 diameter, and use a .1562 pin for .0008 clearance assuming everything is perfect. They
would accept a pin .1558 or up to .1568, or +/- .0005. The hole would be toleranced .157 +.0005, .0000. But then another manufacturer makes a copy and uses a standard 5/32 reamer (.1562) to
make his hole.
Now perhaps you can see the problem. A standard pin within tolerance at a .1568 diameter would
not fit into a .1562 hole.
These tolerance problems are repeated for every dimension in the whole gun. Some are more important, some make no difference at all. Now you should be able to see why over eighty years of manufacturing, with different machines, different companies, different managers, and different tolerances
makes the same gun not the same at all.
I have used the popular 1911 design as my example above, but the problem is by no means limited to
that gun. I have known factories in this day and time to hand fit certain parts on a gun. The case I
am speaking of involved a small production run of revolvers (2000) that had a cut in the frame come
out slightly short. This prevented the cylinder latch, normally a drop-in part, from releasing the
cylinder.
This problem was discovered in inspection, and the factory chose the easiest solution. Simply file
off a small amount of metal from the front of the latch and the gun will work. This solved the
problem and eliminated the disassembly and refixturing of the frames for remachining. But what
about the poor devil who wants to later add an aftermarket oversize Thumblatch? And one that the
manufacturer has assured the customer that it will drop-in with only one screw? You get the idea.
So what can you as a consumer expect in a drop-in part? I believe you should expect it to drop in
and perform better than the factory part. 1911 parts that rarely fail to work include Magazines, Grip
.
Screws,
Slide Stops, Guide Rods, Firing Pins, Mainspring Housings, add on Magazine funnels, and
Magazine Releases. You can usually expect to install replacement grips without assistance. Parts
that frequently need a bit of adjusting include the drop-in comp assemblies, extractors, and ejectors.
For a general rule, remember any part that has to do with the safe operation of the gun, Grip Safeties,
Thumb Safeties, triggers, hammers, barrels, etc, will always need gunsmith fitting, and most front
sights will require some professional help.