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and the ESR of the capacitors (Yet to be seen). This is where you have to have cohones! Again,
your LM317 can handle this if properly heat sinked (Heat sink included in kit), as the output voltage
will drop down to the cap voltage and start to charge. However, this should only be used for charges
of 1.5v or less. If you are charging the bank from 0v to 5.4 v, it will charge relatively quickly using the
2.2 Ohm charge option. However, around 3v of charge, it will start to slow down. At this point, take
the jumper off to limit the current to 1.1 Ohm. At around 4.5v, you will notice that the charge will
slow down again. Flick the switch to charge the remaining 900mv, and you will have no problems.
Truth be told, I've charged from 2v to 5.4v with the switch on, but it is NOT good practice, and I was
risking my LM317.
5) We have two IN4001 diodes in series with the charge line. These are not used for any type of
rectification, but rather to allow DC charge to enter the capacitor bank, but not allow for any DC to
travel backwards through the circuit after the capacitor bank is charged. If we didn't have these
diodes here, follow the circuit backwards. Regardless of whether the jumper is on or off, or whether
the SPST is on or off, there is a path back to the LM317, and there is a 240 Ohm resistor in a series
path with a 5k potentiometer and ground. If we stopped charging (without the diodes), the charge on
the caps would leak back through the circuit to ground, making our batteries terribly inefficient.
There are two diodes in parallel to share the current along the line. If you have 1N4007s, or any
1N400X diodes, they will work just as well if not better. There are factors such as thermal runaway
that we could spend time worrying about with these diodes in parallel, but the charge time from start
to finish for this circuit is literally 10 minutes or less , so we're not going to worry about that at all.
6) The jumper (JUMPER#2) like a lot of this circuit is a custom option. If you are not going to watch
the digital display (Seen later) as your super capacitor bank charges, then you are going to want to
follow this step. When you build this charge circuit, probe the output of the diodes (TEST POINT)
with reference to ground using your multimeter. There will be a voltage drop along the diodes, so we
need to make sure that we measure here, and not at the anode end of the diode. Since we have a
5.4v MAX capacitor bank, we DO NOT want to have a charge higher than 5.4v. Check the voltage
here using the 5k potentiometer at the LM317. Turn the potentiometer until you see a voltage of
5.2v-5.4v, then consider using a bit of hot glue to set the pot to steady it. You may think, why use the
pot, and not a fixed resistor? You can, by all means, but you may want to change the charge voltage
down the road. Now, the jumper is here because on the other side of the jumper lies the capacitor
bank. If you test the voltage here when you have the jumper on, you will read the voltage at the
capacitor bank, not the voltage that it will be charging to. You only take the jumper off when you
want to take a charged reading. Leave it on at all other times.
Step 2: The Capacitor Bank, and DPST Switch, and the Booster Circuit
page. This switch business may sound tricky, but follow along with the schematic, and you'll be in
good shape =)
THE DC-DC BOOSTER:
This is where things start to get easy! As stated earlier, this DC-DC booster circuit will boost any
voltage at the input between 3.4v MIN to 34v MAX to any voltage between 3.4v and 34v. The output
can be adjusted by using an on-board variable resistor. All you need is to turn the pot!
Examples:
VIN = 3.4v
VIN = 28v
VIN = 8v
VIN=3v
These booster boards are available in my store: There is a three-pin screw-type terminal block
for safe connection, and a variable resistor that allows for you to change the output voltage for your
desired application. The three pints are labeled VOUT/GND/VIN. So, VOUT is your varied output,
GND is common ground, and VIN is your input voltage pin; requiring at least 3.4VDC. It is VERY
easy to use. DIMENSIONS: 32x34x20mm. It can supply up to 3A of current, but that is not
suggested for continuous draw. It is highly suggested that you keep continuous draw under 2A. This
bad boy is rated for 15W and has an efficiency of 90%. As you can see, when the switch is flipped
on, power is connected to the VIN terminal of the DC-DC booster board. The second terminal of the
board is connected to the ground line, and the third is connected to our output terminal block. There
is an arrow coming from the output line that is labeled "BOOST REF". This is just for reference and
is not actually connected elsewhere in the circuitry.
The terminal block (TERMINAL BLOCK#2) output can be used as our battery terminals. The DC
value at this terminal block is adjusted using the on-board variable resistor on the DC-DC booster.
However, if you choose to go this route, it is necessary to add a diode into the mix. If you want to go
this route, as I did in the circuit viewed in the video, let me know and I'll include another schematic.
THE PARTS:
I can offer a kit that includes the bulk of the parts in the schematic for $90 + $12 shipping. The
LM317 kit, the 400f super capracitors, the digital display, and the DC-DC booster board cost more
than $90 in total. If you are looking for parts singularly, they can be found here:
I'll include the following for $90 +$12 for shipping with tracking:
2x 400f 2.7v super capacitors
1x LM317 DIY kit
1x 0-20v Digital display
1x 3.4v-34v DC-DC Booster board
1x DC plug (input and port set)
2x 2.2 Ohm power resistors
2x 1N4001 diodes
1x DPDT switch
1x 0.1uf capacitor
1x 100uf capacitor
****
The Jumpers, terminal blocks, PCB, Input DC source, and SPST switch will not be included.
Send me a message if you are interested. You can also reach me through and through ebay.
THE THEORY:
Most of the basic circuit theory was covered in the instructable. However, I'll go a bit further in depth
regarding super capacitors. When you place a super capacitor in series with another super
capacitor, you can up the voltage; doubling it, if the two capacitor voltage values are the same, but
you lose capacitance. The formula for lost capacitance is the same as the parallel resistor formula:
1 [ (1/ C1) + (1 / C2)] Let's use it in the example of this instructable, where C1 = 400f, and C2 =
400f
Example:
CTotal = 1/[1/ C1) + (1 / C2)]
CTotal = 1/[400) + (1/400)]
CTotal = 1/0.005
CTotal = 200 f
Example#2 (C1 = 3000f @ 2.5v / C2 = 10f @ 2.7fv)
First, add the two voltages. (2.5 + 2.7 = 5.2v) This is your max charging voltage.
CTotal = 1/[1/ C1) + (1 / C2)]
CTotal = 1/[3000) + (1/10)]
CTotal = 1/0.100
CTotal = 9.97f
The total capacitance is always lower than the lowest capacitance added to the series string, so
beware. Play around with this. A good way to check your answers is to play with this capacitor
calculator: When placing capacitors in parallel with one another, you are looking at much easier
calculations. When you place a capacitor in series with another capacitor, you just add the two
capacitances together, and that will be your total capacitance. The maximum voltage you can
charge to is always the lowest value. Let's use three capacitors in our example:
Example: (C1 = 2.0v @ 10f / C2 = 2.5v @ 100f / C3 = 2.7v @ 1000f)
Max voltage charge is 2.0v (The lowest of the three)
CTotal = C1 + C2 + C3
CTotal = 10f + 100f +1000f
CTotal = 1110f
You can also place strings of sets in series, in parallel with one another for the sake of compensating
for lost capacitances. Let's say we have 9x 2.7v @100f capacitors. We want a capacitor that is
higher than 7VDC and has the most capacitance possible. If we place three if these 2.7v capacitors
in series, we get 8.1v, but the capacitance of the string is only 33.3f. We have 9x of these
capacitors, so if we make three strings of three, and place them in parallel with one another, we have
a capacitor bank that has a value of 8.1v @ 100f. Neat, eh? See one of my capacitor bank videos
here:
There is so much theory that goes into capacitors. If you guys have a specific question, or perhaps
a project idea, I will consider building it and displaying it for you all, right here on instructables.com.
CONCLUSIONS:
This circuit was a prototype, and I will be using it for years and years to come. I have a solar panel
on my window that allows for me to listen to music using free energy all day long, and even for a few
hours after the sun goes down.
There are two things I'd like to do with my next version. I'd like to create a bank that employs
thousands of farads, has a more advanced charging circuit, and has safe-charge features that are
controlled by a microcontroller that cut off a charge once the device has reached the proper level of
charge.
Super capacitors are the wave of the future, relative to energy storage. I am always looking for new
ways of implementing them into projects. If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask. PLEASE
VOTE FOR THIS INSTRUCTABLE OR SUBSCRIBE IF YOU LIKE WHAT YOU SEE!
THANKS EVERYONE!