BACKED FABRIC

Backed cloths
The backed fabrics are those, which are produced with extra threads in one (only) series to
achieve any of following objects.
1. To increase the warmth-retaining qualities of cloth
2. To impart greater weight and substance than single structure with equally fine surpace
appearance
3. Many times to ornament the fabric without purpose of increasing weight
4. Both for increasing weight and ornamentation
The extra weight can be obtained in an economical manner with the help of backing
threads, because the material, which is inferior to the face yarns may be used on the
underside.
Types of backed fabrics
Backed cloths can be constructed on two principles.
1. Weft backed, and
2. Warp backed cloths.
In weft-backed fabric two series weft threads and one series of warp threads are used. In
case of warp-backed fabrics two series of warp yarns and one series of weft yarn is used. If 2
series of the threads are used in both directions it produces double cloth.
Principles of tying or stitching
When the extra (backing) threads are used for the purpose of increasing weight, two
things should be observed carefully.
1. Backing threads (underside of fabric) should be bound to face structure with the proper
degree of firmness and
2. The backing threads must be totally invisible from the face side of the cloth.
The tying of extra threads can be done in many ways, which are common to the different
classes of the cloth. The backing threads lie at the back of the cloth and they occasionally are
raised on the surface for tying. The schemes for tying are many.
To avoid the formation of marks in the face of cloth due to tying, the backing thread
should float, between the floats of face weave. Therefore, the positions of stitches should be
chosen carefully. For this reason the face weave determines the arrangement of ties, which is
most suitable.
The following orders of distributing the ties are in general use
1. Twill order is used for twill face weaves.
2. Sateen order used for twill weaves, where loose binding is permissible
3. Plain order for certain weaves, where firmness is desired
4. Irregular order, used for irregular weaves
When backing threads are used in warp, the backing threads are tied between the warp
floats. Similarly, when backing threads are used in weft, they are tied between weft floats.
Usually, the backing thread is floated (raised) over only one face thread at a place. But, some
times it may be raised above two (or more) consecutive face threads. This would impart
additional firmness to the structure. This can be done only if the floats of face weave are
suitable and the backing yarn is not too thick (i.e. coarse).
The firmness obtained by tying should be of proper degree, because the solidity, strength
and wearing properties of cloth are influenced by it. For firm handle the ties should be
frequent, and for soft hand ties it may not be that frequent. A 3/3-twill face weave gives
greater scope for variety of stitching than other weaves. But, the firmness of stitching can be
varied as per requirements. Plain order of stitching can be used for matt weave with face:
back ratio as 2:1. For other suitable face weaves, plain order of stitching can be used.

Backed Fabric-Prof. H. R. Shah

BACKED FABRIC

Whenever possible it is advisable to get same number of ties on each thread in a repeat. It
should also be observed that the ties are distributed uniformly over the repeat area.
Certain other points to note are:
In stitching twill weave in twill order; ties should be fill equally on each warp and weft twill
line. Other wise adjacent twill lines will appear different from each other.
The ties in above case should not run in opposite direction or twill on face. Other wise it
will form cross twill in fabric.
In both extra weft and extra warp systems of producing backed cloths the order of
stitching decides the weave on the underside. Therefore, for certain weaves back weave may
be-i) same as face or ii) loose back weave giving soft handle to the fabric.

Weft Backed Cloths

In weft-backed cloths, there is one series of warp and two series of weft threads. As the
tension on weft during weaving is much less than warp, the weft with less twist can be used.
This gives the cloth softer and lofty handle. So, for this purpose, weft backing may be
preferred over warp backing. The backing weft used can be cheaper material. This can
compensate to some extent for the increase in cost due to extra weft threads.
The standard orders of arranging the picks in weft-backed cloths are:
1Face: 1 back
2 Face: 1 back
3 face: 1 back
2 face: 2 back
4 face: 2 back
Last two arrangements i.e. 2:2 and 4:2 are used when back weft is different than face
weft. This requires multiple box loom having boxes on one side. 1:1 ratio is used mostly for
finer cloths with similar count of face and back weft. 2:1 arrangement gives cheaper
production than 1:1 as the backing (extra) threads are less, and the backing thread is coarser
so cheaper. But, fabric is coarser underside, so less attractive.
Method of designing
Following steps are followed to develop the design
1. Mark the face weaves.
2. Introduce the backed picks and shade them to separate from face picks. The backed
picks are introduced in the ratio chosen.
3. On face pick mark the face weave.
4. Insert stitches at suitable places. The care is taken to have face weave mark above and
below stitching mark. This arrangement will conceal (hide) the ties from the face of fabric.
Reversible Backed Weaves
In these backed cloths same weave is formed on both sides. This is mainly done for
heavily felted cloths with cotton warp and woolen weft. The weft is much coarser than warp
and picks per inch are more than ends per inch. Due to this, after felting and raising, warp is
completely covered by weft.
Suitable design particulars for 4 end satinatte, 1:1 backed fabric is 2/32 (cotton) warp and
16 (skin woolen) weft, 56ends per inch and 80picks per inch.
By employing two different colors for face and back weft, the cloth having two different
colors on both sides is produced.
Warp-Backed Cloths
In this backed cloths two series of warp threads and one series of weft threads is used.
Following points should be noted:
1. The picks/inch are less than weft-backed fabrics.
Backed Fabric-Prof. H. R. Shah

BACKED FABRIC

2. More solid appearance can be given to cloth by the formation of stripes on underside of
fabric. This is not possible in weft-backed cloth.
3. The warp threads are stronger, so the cloths are structurally superior.
4. The cost is increased due to better quality yarn in warp
5. As ends are more drawing-in cost is more.
6. The drafts are usually more complicated as more number of heald shafts are required to
produce similar effect.
The standard orders of arranging the ends in warp-backed cloths are:
1:3, Odd numbered ends can be used.
2:1, in some cases backed weave is combined in stripe or check form with face weave.
3:1
The method designing is same as for weft-backed cloth. The difference being the ends is
arranged as face and back in correct ratio.
Reversible warp-backed weaves
This is again similar to weft-backed cloths. The weave is same on both the sides. The
cloths can be made reversible w. r. t. colouring or color pattern, also.
Beaming and drafting of warp-backed designs
In beaming there are two cases.
1. All threads can be taken on one beam, if the face and back yarns are similar (count) and
face and back weaves of equal firmness.
2. Two separate beams are made for face and back yarns, if the yarns are not similar and/or
the weaving is of unequal firmness.
Drafting
1. Simple patterns may be drawn with straight draft.
2. If the counts are different or material is not similar or if the warp patterns on two sides are
different, or if face weaves requires special draft, then the draft for face and back yarn is
separated from each other.
3. Generally, the heald shafts through which backing (weak) yarns are passed are kept at
the front. The heald shafts for face yarns (good quality) are placed at back.
4. For more flexibility in the weaves employed in face and back, more heald shafts may be
used.
Fabric construction for 2/2 twill 1:1 warp-backed fabric
Warp (face and back) 2/40s and weft 20s; 120 epi and 60 ppi
Fabric construction for 2:1 face
Warp: 30 skein and back warp 20 skein; 60 epi and 40 ppi.
Construction of back-cloth
In both types of backed cloths when face threads are finer than backed, in general
coarser and poorer quality of yarn is used for backing. The count of backing thread may be
2/3 to of face threads. The face cloth of backed cloth should have 12% less epi and ppi
than single structure for twill weaves and less for sateen or loose back; with 1:1 face to back
ratio. In 2:1 ratio this is 8% less and 4% less for twill and sateen.
Pseudo-Backed Cloth
Almost all the ordinary weaves can be modified to produce a structure, which very
closely resembles backed cloth. But, in this each thread regularly weaves on both sides of
cloth.
Advantages: Only one beam is required. Heavy single cloth can be produced having fine
surface appearance, yet elastic and soft handle.
Backed Fabric-Prof. H. R. Shah

BACKED FABRIC

But, inferior quality yarn cant be used and the colors cannot be effectively used as in
backed fabrics.
Method to produce imitation design:
1. Take a standard weave.
2. Mark a repeat (for 1:1 ratio) on one thread less or more than twice the number or threads
in the original repeat of weave.
3. Consider the ends of original repeat only and mark the original weave on alternate
horizontal space on first section and then in other section.
The designs should be woven with picks, which are twice than ends per inch. The long weft
floats on the underside give the appearance of a loose or sateen back weave. This gives
resemblance to weft-backed structure.
The imitation warp backing designs are developed on similar principles.
Backed Cloth With Wadding Threads
The object of wadding threads is to obtain the increased weight i.e. more than just
backed cloth. Introducing thick, cheap yarn between the face texture and the backing threads
achieves this object.
In weft backed cloths the wadding threads are introduced in the warp and in warp backed
cloths wadding threads is introduced in weft. As these fabrics consist of two series of threads
in each direction.
The threads may be arranged either one face and one wadding or 2F 1W and these are
used with 1:1 and 2:1 backing ratio 2 face, 1 wadding arrangement allows thick wadding yarn
to use resulting in higher weight of cloths.
Weftbacked warp-wadded designs:
The construction of design is easy. Following steps are followed.
1. Decide the face weave and mark it.
2. Draw a repeat with backing threads and wadding threads in pick direction and ends
direction and shade these ends and picks for separation from face ends and picks.
3. Insert the marks of original weave on face ends and pick up.
4. Give markings for ties as per the order decided according to face weave.
5. Insert dots in squares having face picks and wadding ends. The dots indicate wadding
threads (ends) are left down on face picks. The blank in square having back pick and
wadding end means the wadding ends are raised above backing picks. Due to this the
wadding threads lie between face texture and backing picks. Thus, the wadding-threads
do not interweave with face or back picks.
Warp-backed weft wadded cloth
These are similarly developed by using wadding threads in picks and backing threads in
ends (warp).
The development is on similar principle as explained above. In the last stage, the face ends
are lifted on wadding picks shown by dots in squares, which have wadding pick and face end.

Backed Fabric-Prof. H. R. Shah