SKIN CARE FORMULARY

Lotions
Creams
Cleansers
Miscellaneous
Supplier Listing

This information is presented in good faith, and

believed to be correct, but no warranty as to
accuracy of results or fitness for a particular use
is given, nor is freedom from patent infringement
to be inferred. It is offered solely for your
consideration, investigation and verification.

LOTIONS

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Skin Brightening Lotion

(International Specialty Products/Vincience)

UV Protection Brightening Lotion

(AkzoNobel)
Daily use of this lotion brightens skin and removes dark spots and blemishes to
provide a more youthful appearance to skin.
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.

Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00% w/w
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure XL, AkzoNobel)
2.00
Disodium EDTA (Versene Na, Dow Chemical)
0.20
Glycerin (Pricerine 9091, Uniqema)
4.00
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlcel 165, Uniqema) 3.50
Stearic acid (Pristerene 4911, Uniiqema)
2.50
Stearic acid (Arlamol E, Uniqema)
3.00
Triethylhexanoin (Estol 3609, Uniqema)
3.00
Dimethicone (DC 200/300, Dow Corning)
0.50
Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Myritol 318, Cognis)
2.50
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Neo Heliopan AV, Sino Lion)
7.50
Kojic dipalmitate (KAD-15, Sino Lion)
1.00
F. Propylene glycol
2.00
Corn starch modified (Dry-Flo AF Pure Starch, AkzoNobel)
2.00
G. Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) methylparaben
(and) propylparaben (Germaben II-E, Sutton/ISP)
0.70
H. Citric acid, 20%
qs to pH 4.34.7
100.00
Procedure: Add B to A and mix for 510 min to fully hydrate. Add C to AB and mix
for approx. 5 min. Add D to batch and heat to 80C while continuing to mix. In
a separate vessel, combine E and heat to 80C. Once ABCD and E reach 80C,
slowly add E to batch and mix at moderate to high shear for 10 min. Reduce
the shear to low. Premix E to form slurry and add to batch at 4045C. Add G
below 40C. Once G is completely incorporated, adjust pH to 4.34.7 using H.
Continue mixing and allow to cool to RT.

A. Water (aqua)
67.50% w/w
B. PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer (Stabileze QM, ISP)
0.30
C. Glycerin
3.00
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA, Dow Chemical)
0.10
D. Glyceryl stearate (and) behenyl alcohol (and) palmitic acid (and)
stearic acid (and) lecithin (and) lauryl alcohol (and) myristyl
alcohol (and) cetyl alcohol (ProLipid 141, ISP)
5.00
Isodecyl neopentanoate (Ceraphyl SLK, ISP)
8.00
Ethylhexyl palmitate (Ceraphyl 368, ISP)
7.00
Glyceryl dilaurate (Emulsynt GDL, ISP)
1.50
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (Si-Tec PTM, 1000, ISP)
1.00
E. Triethanolamine 99%
0.30
Water (aqua)
0.50
F. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (Si-Tec GF 1000, ISP)
0.50
Cyclopentasiloxane (Si-Tec CM 040, ISP)
1.50
G. Water (aqua) (and) glycerin (and) Brassica napus extract
(Achromaxyl IS, ISP)
3.00
Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) iodopropynyl
butylcarbamate (Liquid Germall Plus, ISP)
0.70
Fragrance (parfum) (CK One EE-54017, Ungerer)
0.10
100.00
Procedure: Add A to main vessel. Sprinkle B into A and mix. Heat to 7580C. Mix
for at least 45 min at 80C. Add C to AB and mix well. Separately combine D
and heat to 8085C. Stir until uniform. Add D to ABC with homogenization.
Homogenize for 23 min until uniform. Transfer to propeller mixing and mix well.
Separately pre-mix E at RT. Add E to the main batch at 70C and mix well until
uniform. Begin to cool. When the batch is at 4548C, add F individually. Mix well
after each addition. Add G below 40C and mix well. QS for water loss.

Sunscreen with PTFE

(Micro Powders Inc.)

Satin Lotion

PTFE is added to this SPF 20 sunscreen for SPF boosting.

(Chemsil Silicones Inc.)

A.
B.
C.
D.

Water (aqua)
63.00% w/w
Carbomer 981 (Carbopol 981, Noveon)
0.50
Acrylates/C1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Pemulen TR1, Noveon) 0.10
Dimethicone/cimethicone vinyl crosspolymer (Chemsil SPD,
Chemsil Silicones)
10.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (Volasil 995, Chemsil Silicones)
10.00
Dimethicone (Dimethisil DM-6, Chemsil Silicones)
7.00
E. Triethanolamine, 85%
qs to pH 6.57.0
F. Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) methylparaben
(and) propylparaben (Germaben II, ISP)
0.50
Water (aqua)
8.00
Procedure: Disperse B slowly into A at high agitation. Mix well until uniform. Add
C to AB at high agitation. Mix well until uniform. Allow slurry to de-aerate until
batch is free of air bubbles or foam before adding additional ingredients. Premix D and add to batch. Mix until uniform. Adjust system to pH 6.57.0 (pH
5.5 recommended) with E. Premix F and add to batch. Note: This is a cold
process. Heat is not required. Recommended mixing temperature ~ 2535C.
Avoid over-aerating batch.

Vol. 124, No. 1/January 2009

A. Water (aqua)
58.10% w/w
Glycerin
4.00
Magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum Ultra, R.T. Vanderbilt)
2.00
B. Methylparaben (Methylparaben, USP, ISP)
0.20
C. Octyl methoxycinnamate (Escalol 557, ISP)
7.00
Octyl salicylate (Escalol 587, ISP)
3.00
Benzophenone 3 (Escalol 567, ISP)
3.00
Propylparaben (Propylparaben, USP, ISP)
0.10
Emulsifying wax NF (Polawax, Croda)
10.00
Cetyl alcohol NF (Lipocol C, Lipo Chemicals)
1.00
DEA oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N10 Neutral, Croda)
1.00
Octyl palmitate
2.10
PTFE, 50% (Microslip 519, Micro Powders)
8.40
D. Quaternium-15 (Dowicil 200, Dow Chemical)
0.10
E. Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00
Procedure: Stirring constantly, mix A in batch tank for 30 min at RT. Begin heating.
Add B at 50C. In separate container, combine C and heat to 75C. Add C at
75C to AB at 70C and cool to RT. Add D to batch at 45C. Homogenize and
fill. Add E to batch.

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