Professional Documents
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BUILD...
THE
LEOPARD
FAMILY IN 1:35
SPENCER POLLARD
INCLUDES
Full-sized walk-rounds
In-service references
Step by step tutorials: construction,
painting and weathering
How to detail your model:
aftermarket and from scratch
Complete list of all available 1:35
kits, conversions and accessories
p 01 Cover Leopard.indd 1
30/07/2014 19:03
FORWARD
How to build... THE LEOPARD FAMILY IN 1:35
Spencer Pollard
Spencer was born in Haverfordwest, South Wales in 1967. Having
been born into a military family (both his mother and father served
in the Royal Navy) it was not surprising to see him develop an
abiding interest in the military and thanks to that Fleet Air Arm
connection, aircraft, both full-size and in miniature. Having spent
many years building models as a hobby, Spencer was able to turn
a part-time passion into a full-time career, as he swapped a role in
the Civil Service for one in the Editors chair, taking over the reigns
of Military In Scale magazine in 1997. Sixteen years on, Spencer
changed direction once more as he joined the ADH team to become
their in-house model-maker, working on a wide range of models
both military and civilian. He spends downtime playing drums in a
rock-covers band, living in Shropshire with his wife Liz.
19/08/2014 13:55
CONTENTS
2
Page 4
Page 6
Page
Forward
Introduction
Chapter 1
From The Box: MENGs Leopard 1A3/4
Page
13
Chapter 2
Classic Plastic
Page
14
Chapter 3
Genietank by Marcel Jussen
Page
22
Chapter 4
The Next Generation
Page
34
Chapter 5
Now You See Me: Nets, Rags and Rubber Mats
Page
42
Chapter 6
In Detail: Leopard 2A6 by Rudi Meir
Page
46
Chapter 7
Denmarks Big Cat by John Murphy
Page
Page
56
Chapter 9
Canadian Desert Cat by Brett Green
Page
68
Chapter 10
Used and Abused
Chapter 8
The Canadian Leopard by Anthony Seward
52
Page
78
Chapter 11
In Detail: Leopard C2 Mexas by Anthony Sewards
80
Page 82
Page
Appendix
Final Thoughts
How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 3
30/07/2014 19:04
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Cosfords Leopard
the perfect
backdrop for a
photo opportunity!
4 Introduction
19/08/2014 13:57
A real Leopard C2
MEXAS in all of its
streamlined glory.
30/07/2014 19:05
IN THE BOX
The first thing that strikes you
about MENG kits is the superb
packaging; I know its not the most
important factor in the success of
a kit, but it does help create the
impression of a quality product.
Open up the box and you are faced
with a collection of wonderfully
packaged plastic parts, excellent
instructions, photo-etched frets and
a superb full-colour painting guide
and decals, covering four individual
schemes. So far, so very good.
Across the board the quality
of the moulding and the levels
of detail is very good with plastic
parts that are sharp and entirely
flash-free. Sprue gates are kept to
a minimum and moulding seams
fine and easy to clean up. It is also
worth pointing out that the kit is
also broken down in a very straightforward manner and so the parts
count is kept to a minimum.
Digging deeper there are some
really pleasing features that push
this kit above and beyond those
already available. The kit skirts for
instance are beautifully detailed,
01/08/2014 09:25
01/08/2014 09:25
MENGs Leopard is
very easy to build, with
perfect fit and little in
the way of clean-up,
to hold up progress.
A choice of vents
is offered, the
standard one seen
here, and a tropical
unit suitable for the
Greek version.
Though virtually
hidden on the
completed model,
these small vents
on the engine deck
are replicated in
photo-etch.
Power cables
were added to
the searchlight
and PZB200 sight
using lead wire
and small resin
connectors from
the spares box.
A small amount
of filling and
sanding is needed
where the side
skirts meet the
front mudguards.
Humbrol Model
Filler and a touch
of thin superglue
dealt with this in
short order.
19/08/2014 13:58
CONSTRUCTION
Work begins on the lower hull, suspension and running gear. The onepiece lower hull tub is decorated
with all of the smaller suspension
dampers, bump-stops and mounts
for the idler and sprocket wheels.
Once in place the swing arms can
be slotted through the wall of the
hull. These are fixed inside the hull
so that the swing arms can rotate,
tensioned prototypically, by the torsion bars. This works well and adds
a degree of flexibility when it comes
to the set up of the model later
on. Should you wish to represent
wheels over uneven terrain, leave
the arms loose, but if not, I would
suggest fixing the arms permanently at this point. The wheels are
easy to clean up and assemble, the
two halves of the main units trapping a poly-cap, thus allowing the
wheels to be removed for painting.
Two types of sprocket are included,
the later 15-bolt units being suitable
for the Greek option.
The upper hull fits well to the
completed lower hull, as does the
rear hull plate. As usual, I joined
all of these parts prior to adding
the smaller details, any adjustment
that may have been needed, being
possible without worrying about
damaging the finer details.
The smaller items such as the
tools were essentially used as-is,
the only improvements being to
open out some of the solid locking
clamps with a fine drill bit and scalpel. Detail here really is top drawer,
each tool capturing the look and
feel of the originals to a tee. Though
the instructions suggest adding
the clear periscopes now, these
were left off as were their etched
guards until after the model had
been painted and weathered.
One of the weaknesses in this
kit is the depiction of the exhaust
outlets on the rear hull sides. These
are extremely toy-like and really
dont capture the delicate look of
the real thing at all. In fact, Italeris
70s era kit depicts these items with
Before painting
could begin proper,
the model was
sprayed with
several thin layers
of Tamiya Fine
Surface Primer.
With the wash dry, the details were drybrushed with Humbrol
The results of the washing and drybrushing can be seen in this
enamels. This both popped the detail and smoothed out the finish. view, especially on the side skirts.
19/08/2014 13:59
Weathering began
with the application
of different shades
of dusty pigments.
Though I mainly
used oils and
enamels to
apply stains and
the like on this
model, some
use was made
of proprietary
weathering
solution such as
AK Interactives
Oil Stains.
Tiny mud
splashes were
added to the
model using
AKs Fresh Mud,
flicked over the
model using an
old, flat brush.
A simple pencil
adds a metallic
sheen on the tools
and tow-rope.
19/08/2014 13:59
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
01/08/2014 09:26
From whichever
angle you look at it,
the Leopard 1A3 is
a very handsome
vehicle.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I enjoyed building Mengs Leopard
and I really like the completed
model. In my opinion this is a really
important member of the Leopard
family and its good to finally have
this model in the display case,
which after all really is the object of
the exercise and for that reason,
I would consider this new kit a success and one to be recommended.
MODEL SPEC
TOOLS AND MODELLING
PRODUCTS USED
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
Tamiya Masking Tape
GF9 Super Glue
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
Daco Strong Setting Solution
PAINTS AND FINISHING
PRODUCTS
Mr Color Thinner
Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green
XF-63 German Grey
XF-68 NATO Brown
XF-15 Flat Flesh
XF-57 Buff
Games Workshop Purity Seal
Winsor & Newton Raw Umber
Humbrol 33 Matt Black
72 Khaki Drill
159 Khaki Green
86 Light Olive
27 Sea Grey
140 Gull Grey
Vallejo Flat Varnish
Vallejo 169 Black
150 German Camo Black Brown
306 Dark Rubber
Vallejo Face Painting Set
Mig Productions Pigments, Dark Wash and
Dust Effects
19/08/2014 14:00
CLASSIC PLASTIC
Spencer Pollard takes a look at a
reissue of the very first 1:35 armour
kit he ever built, Italeris Leopard 1A4.
If anything gives
away the age of
this kit, it is the
commander figure!
p 13 CH2 Leopard.indd 13
19/08/2014 14:01
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
GENIETANK
Marcel Jussen builds a Royal Dutch
Army Leopard Armoured Engineer
Vehicle (AEV) offering hits and tips
on building resin kits, along the way
ENTER THE
PIONIERPANZER
As early as in the planning
and designing stage of the
Standard Panzer Leopard, now
better known as Leopard 1, it was
decided that a recovery tank based
on all major components of the
Leopard 1 was needed. Keeping
a commonality of parts was
important because it offers a major
advantage when providing spare
parts in wartime conditions. It was
one of many important lessons the
Germans learned during World War
14 Chapter 3 - Genietank
01/08/2014 09:28
01/08/2014 09:28
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
II. Designed by Porsche and built
by MaK of Kiel the first Bergepanzer
2 Standard left the production line
in 1966. Though the Leopard 1 battle tank and the recovery tank share
a seventy-five percent commonality
in parts, they are two very different
tanks. The different upper hull
structure, the crane on the right,
a winch and a dozer blade at the
front leave little room as to what the
Bergepanzer 2 is meant to do.
Based on the Bergepanzer 2,
the Pionierpanzer 1 became the
second specialised variant of
the Leopard 1 combat tank. The
Pionierpanzer 1, also build by MaK,
is basically the same vehicle as the
recovery tank and can carry out the
same tasks. Again, the commonality of components being a major
factor in its design.
Its main purpose as an engineering vehicle is to overcome obstacles and build defences. To carry
out these tasks the Pionierpanzer 1
has an enlarged and wider blade to
provide dozer and obstacle clearing capabilities. The dozer blade
can hold a set of pulling prongs
attached to the bottom rear of the
dozer blade for demolition purposes. A hydraulically operated ground
auger, normally stored on the rear
deck, is attached to the crane for
drilling manholes that conceal a
soldier in the field. The hydraulic
system of the Pionierpanzer that
powers the blade, crane and auger
was adapted to be used for a much
longer and intensive period compared to the system used on the
Bergepanzer 2. Besides the large
dozer blade, another distinctive
feature of the Pionierpanzer is the
big cast ventilator/access door fitted to the right hull side which gives
access to the hydraulic system.
The crane on the Pionierpanzer was
also fitted with a ladder to facilitate
the fitting of the auger system
which is also a good means of
identifying a Leopard Pionierpanzer
from a Bergepanzer 2.
Though the Pionierpanzer
could be used, not only as an
engineering vehicle but also as a
recovery vehicle, it was built in low
numbers. Just under 100 vehicles
were ever built and most were
used by the German, Dutch and
Italian army. Because part of its
capabilities in time became less
The first
scratchbuilt
parts are done. The
blade looks mighty
impressive. At this
stage the smoke
mortar system,
antenna and rear
mounted stowage
box are also in
place. The copper
wire used for the
towing cable comes
from the PSM kit.
IN MINIATURE
There are quite a few Leopard 1
kits of various versions and scales
going around, the Meng, Revell and
16 Chapter 3 - Genietank
19/08/2014 14:03
The work on the crane arm stowage is done. Notice the photo-etch detail on
the tarpaulin straps.
GETTING STARTED
Building a resin kits is quite different
compared to normal styrene plastic
kits. While detail on a resin part can
be just as good as or even better
than a styrene part, handling and
building a resin kit is very different
to what you may have been used
too. If you have no experience
with resin, I recommend building a
small resin conversion first so you
get acquainted to the material and
building techniques before embarking on a full size resin kit. Heres a
few tips and pointers when working
with resin.
Before you start working on your
resin kit, it may be necessary to
clean the resin parts in bath of
warm soap. Resin is poured in a
rubber mould that is often coated
with a release agent. A residue of
this release agent can remain on
the resin part making it impossible
to glue the part to your model.
You can only glue resin parts with
a cyanoacrylate adhesive. If your
spouse is complaining about smells
while you are building or painting
your models, just wait until the smell
of sanded resin and cyanoacrylate
The right side of the model shows the large access door with the hydraulic
ventilation system. Notice the temporary wire I used to keep the crane in its
position while testing the fit of parts.
The rear of the model showing some of the scratchbuilt parts that were
needed. Notice the plastic card at the bottom of the hull that was needed to
fill up room because the hull and rear plate didnt fit properly. Also notice the
added welding detail made with Archer Fine Details, resin welds.
19/08/2014 14:03
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
glue gets in the air! Unlike styrene
parts on a sprue, resin parts usually
come with the casting blocks still
attached These need to be cut
from the parts either by cutting or, if
you have the experience, by gently
breaking them of the casting block.
Cleaning up resin parts from their
casting blocks is laborious and you
have to take precautions against
resin dust as it is unhealthy in large
quantities. Ventilating your working
area when working with resin kits is
definitely a must!
Another thing you may have to
get used to while working with resin
is the fact that small parts warp
and break easily and if the pouring
of the resin is not done correctly
some parts can have pockets of air
on the surface. Correcting warped
parts can be accomplished by
dipping the resin part in hot water
and adjusting the part by hand.
Damage from pockets of air can
be repaired with putty or, when
the damage is only small, the hole
can be filled with thick cyano glue
droplets. Remember to use small
amounts of cyano glue and a bit of
pressure to bond dust and grease
free resin parts together. I use a
small wire dipped in a drop of
cyano glue and hold the tip of the
wire at the gap between the parts I
need to glue together. This way the
glue gets drawn in the gap without
creating mess on the surface.
MOVING ON
As I bought my kit without an
interior it meant I could start by
bonding the hull with the upper
deck and rear wall but not before
the engine ventilation grill was fitted
first. Even though the mesh of the
grill was produced in photo-etch, I
opted to replace it with a Leopard
1 grill from Voyager, as it was
better detailed than the one from
the PSM kit. I know this seems like
going overboard on details but for
ease of mind I rather spend a few
euros on the Voyager mesh than
not. Unfortunately when working
with resin, especially with larger
pieces like hulls and decks, you
will discover sooner or later that
because of the casting process and
shrinkage that sometimes occurs,
the fit of these parts is not always
perfect. In this case, the rear wall
that closes of the hull and engine
18 Chapter 3 - Genietank
01/08/2014 09:28
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
19/08/2014 14:05
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
needed to be built where the smoke
mortar system, the antenna, and
driver mirrors. The smoke mortars
are unique for Dutch Leopards and
I got mine from an old Legend set.
The mount and protective bars are
made of plastic card and detailed
with bolts made with a punch and
die. The antenna base is made with
plastic card and the antenna itself
is a brass part from RB Models. At
a later stage I decided to add the
orange warning light, which comes
from an Accurate Armour set as
an extra colourful detail. The driver
mirrors are from the PSM kit but
the arms of the mirrors are made
of brass tube and copper wire. The
resin parts for the mirror arms where
just a tad bit too fragile for my
liking. I also drilled out the driving
lights that stick out just above the
dozer blade. I inserted a pair of Tron
lenses into the lights, which give the
model a more realistic look.
The final eyecatcher to be built
for this Genietank was the bundle
of fascines. That was actually
not as hard as I had imagined. I
bought a bunch of plastic straws
and made template for cutting the
straws at the required length. I
counted the number of fascines on
a real tank and made a few extras
with the straws. Just like the real
fascines they are kept together on
both sides with netting. The outer
ring of fascines is actually kept
together with a steel wire that runs
through each fascine. To handle
the bundle with the crane a pair of
chains is run through the fascines. I
replicated this with the fascines on
my model as well.
FINAL THOUGHTS
In all it took me a couple of months
of building and painting this model
before it was finished. It gave me the
opportunity to try to build a complex
yet interesting model of a modern
vehicle you wont see very often
and Ive managed to extend my
building and painting skills just a bit
further than before. A special word
of thanks goes to Roel Geutjens
for helping me out with the crane
hook and all of my friends at KMK
for being the inspirational bunch of
modelling lunatics you are.
20 Chapter 3 - Genietank
19/08/2014 14:06
19/08/2014 14:06
by Spencer Pollard
01/08/2014 09:31
hen I decided to
build the first of my
Leopards, the Dutch
2A4 was top of my
list of subject. Many years ago I
found a book in a local shop that
dealt with NATO tanks and within its
pages, could be found a number
of photos of this vehicle, complete
with long-haired tank crew. These
images stuck with me over the
years and so when Revells kit was
released, that was the only version I
contemplated building.
Having made my decision, I hunted around for further images, both
online and in print, trying to find as
many unique features as I could.
Further discussions with friends
who had crewed these vehicles
highlighted further, the equipment
used by the Dutch (including those
distinctive tarpaulins) and so I knew
that with care, the resulting model
could be something just a little different. This extended feature, is the
result of that journey and the model
that I had at the end of it.
01/08/2014 09:31
01/08/2014 09:31
The suspension
arms are located
into the lower hull
using a shaped peg
and socket joint that
fixes each one in
place at precisely
the right angle.
The completed Leopard 2A4NL detailed and ready to be detailed further with stowage. Before
adding any small details, the basic hull and turret was built and then checked for any flaws,
Alclad Grey Primer being used to check the joints between the individual panels that make up
the hull and turret. Note here that the turret was originally built as-is, the rear stowage bin
being closed-over with its kit-supplied cover. That didnt stay in place for long!
19/08/2014 14:10
The turrets rear stowage bin was originally covered over with the tarpaulin supplied in the
kit, but it soon became apparent that this looked too stiff and out of keeping with the finesse
I was trying to achieve over the rest of the model. Decision made, I removed the cover and
then lined the inside of the bin with thin plasticard. The bin was filled with some random
bits and pieces from the spares box and then covered with tarpaulin made from thinly rolled
sheets of Magic Sculp, teased into place with a soft paintbrush and plenty of talcum powder.
In order to improve this kit, I used some parts from a redundant Tamiya Leopard that I had
in the stash. These included the gunfire simulator fitting to the mantlet, the Tamiya parts
perfectly replicating this distinctive piece of equipment. Whilst I was in a detailing frame of
mind, the rails on the turret sides were improved by using the mounts from the Tamiya kit
with Everygreen rod for the rails themselves
In the photographs on the Dutch Leopards that I found, there was a distinctive piece of
stowage having from one of the side rails and so I decided to sculpt this for my model.
This was down once again with Magic Sculp, a short roll of it being detailed with the same
rubber-tipped brushes used for the tarpaulin. Very thin strings, rolled from more putty,
replicate the ropes used to hold this piece in place
Because of its weight, the gun was fixed in place using 5-minute epoxy and then the mantlet
secured with the same material, to remove any chance of the barrel drooping over time.
Though the canvass cover just in front of the mantlet is supplied in the ITA barrel kit, I didnt
really like it and felt that I could create a more realistic item from scratch. This was done with
more putty, some plumbers tape, wrapped around the barrel, adding the final touch of detail.
The smoke dischargers on the sides of the turret are a distinctive feature of Dutch Leopards
and so replay careful assembly. In the kit they are rather simplified and so using the Prime
Portal website as a reference, they were detailed up using plasticard, Albion Alloys steel
wire and some fine florists wire bought from a local Hobbycraft store. Though a small part of
the model, the two sub-assemblies for the smoke dischargers took some time to complete,
but the results were certainly worth it, being far more detailed than possible from the box.
The glacis plate in detail revealing the Tamiya headlights, spare track links and stowed
mirrors. Most obvious in this shot is the rolled hessian thats a feature of Dutch Leopards.
Once again I grabbed the Magic Sculp to create this distinctive feature, the soft nature of
this material allowing it to draped naturally over the fixtures and fittings found on this part
of the Leopard.
01/08/2014 09:31
Perhaps the weakest part of the model in terms of detail, are the hangers for the large
armoured side skirts. These were improved with the addition of some small fixtures and
fitting made from plasticard, rod and Evergreen strip. Though not perfect, the results were a
huge improvement over the rather plain parts supplied in the kit. This shot reveals more of
that sculpted hessian, including the rope that was sculpted to tie it all in place
The photograph that I was using as my inspiration for this build showed some of the
hessian pulled away from the roll that ran the length of the vehicle. This was represented in
miniature by using two pieces of putty, one rolled up and the other, rolled out. I then carefully
joined the two pieces, sculpting tools and paintbrushes being used to tease the folds and
creases into shape
A close-up of the rear hull, its distinctive vents and the large mudguards. In the kit the
mudguards along with the tracks and the two cables are moulded in a dreadful vinyl
material thats impossible to clean-up and so they were replaced with two pieces cut from
the rear hull plate supplied in the Tamiya kit. Pioneer tools on the engine deck are a mixture
of Tamiya and Revell items the latter being used to create the ends of the tow cables
stowed on the deck; the cables themselves are Karaya items.
From the off I knew that this model would end up in a vignette/diorama and so I would need
some figures. As Dutch tankers are very thin on the ground in miniature, I needed to create
my own. The larger of the two figures was made using a body from VPs NATO Tank Crew set
with a hornet head, Tamiya helmet, Dragon hands and Magic Sculp arms. The smaller fellow
was essentially made from scratch, a blank resin torso, VP head and Dragon hands being
the detail on a uniform sculpted entirely with Magic Sculp, to match the uniform of the other
crew member. The plastic drinks bottle was grabbed from Mengs Pick-Up
19/08/2014 14:11
With the construction finished, the model was checked for flaws and then given several
thin coats of Tamiyas Superfine Primer. Once dry, a dark brown colour was mixed from
Flat Black and Flat Earth and then sprayed around the lower hull, roadwheels, tracks
and any large areas of detail. This acted as a rather heavy-handed preshading layer
and a way of preventing the grey primer showing up under the camouflage.
The camouflage was applied using a mixture of Gunze Sangyo Olive Drab brightened
with a few drops of Tamiya NATO Green. Though accurate, I dont really like straight
Olive Drab, feeling that the colour is rather too bland and so I often add a warmer tone
into the mix to make it a little more pleasing on the eye.
Though there are a range of shades at this point, the model is a still a little
too dark for its scale and so its now time to apply warmer shades of colour
to brighten the models finish. At this point I also sprayed the tarpaulins
hanging from the sides of the model using increasingly lightened layers of
Tamiya Khaki, very thin paint being once again used to great effect.
The additional layers of lighter colours and an run of drybrushed enamels has
helped lighten the basecoats and highlight the detail.
19/08/2014 14:13
Weathering begins. Using a small metal tin, a drop of Windsor & Newton Raw Umber oil paint
was thinned with a little of Migs Thinner For Washes (any other thinner being just as suitable,
if you have it), this dilute solution being applied around all details and then blended-in with a
soft brush dampened with clean thinners.
Drybrushing is a somewhat lost art, but carefully applied it is still a very useful part of the
pantheon of techniques that we can use to finish a model. Here it is being used to blend the
washes that have already been applied and accentuate the detail a little. The trick is to use
shades that are half a tone up from the base colours and not overdo it you dont want the
model to look like its covered in frosting!
The rear of the turret and that distinctive cable reel certainly pop following the drybrushing
applied earlier. Note how subtle the effect is; theres no obvious highlighting, just a
refreshing of the detail. On this model I used Humbrol enamels to carry out this task, No.86
Light Olive, No.150 Forest Green and No.159 Khaki Drab, being used to great effect over the
surface of the model.
There was no doubt that the model looked cool with the initial layers of dark wash and
carefully accented detail, but it couldnt really be described as weathered and so it was
time to apply some dirt. This began with the application of AKs excellent Dust Effects,
a thin, buff coloured wash that looks excellent on a dark model such as this.
With the Dust Effects dry, the next step in the weathering of the lower surfaces could take
place using in this case, Mig Productions oil colours, Light Earth and Buff. Unlike the
washes, the oils are applied neat, small drops being dabbed into place and then blended in to
the surrounding surfaces, until the colours look natural. This can be repeated as many times
as you need, different shades helping to create a finish thats both realistic and interesting.
In close-up, the results of the washes and the oil colours can be easily seen. Note also how
some of the paint has been drawn down the sides of the skirt to produce fine runs of dirt.
Though time consuming, this part of the weathering process is vital if the resulting model is
to look realistic and in-scale.
19/08/2014 14:14
I used a number of
different oil colours
to add weathering
effects and tonal
variations around
the model. Here,
you can see Mig
Productions Light
Earth, Buff and
Dark Rust oils
ready for use.
There was no getting away from the fact that those tarpaulins, were a bear to paint! If ever I baulk at
the idea of painting a figure, Ill remember how long it took to paint these parts of the Leopard, multiple
layers of very thin Vallejo acrylics being built up to produce the necessary light and shade on the
sculpted folds. In this shot you can see the pallete that I used to mix the paint, several shades being
created that could then be applied over one another, each being simply thinned with water.
19/08/2014 14:14
An in-progress
shot showing off
the large areas of
worn paintwork on
the upper surfaces.
Ive also painted
the stowage using
exactly the same
techniques and
materials used
for the tarpaulins,
shades of grey
being used here
to create a little
variation and add
interest to the
model.
There are a lot of lights around this model. Here, Tamiya Clear
Orange is being painted over a basecoat of Games Workshop
Mithryl Silver, to finish off the little lights on the mudguards. The
same techniques were also used on the rear hull plate to finish
off the lights in that area.
19/08/2014 14:14
19/08/2014 14:14
MODEL SPEC
TOOLS AND MODELLING
PRODUCTS USED
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
Tamiya Masking Tape
GF9 Super Glue
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
Daco Strong Setting Solution
PAINTS AND FINISHING
PRODUCTS
Magic Sculp
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
XF-1 Flat Black
XF-52 Flat Earth
XF-49 Khaki
XF-68 NATO Brown
XF-67 NATO Green
XF-62 Olive Drab
XF-71 Cockpit Green
XF-59 Desert Yellow
XF-7 Flat Red
Gunze Sangyo Mr Color Thinner
H52 Olive Drab
Humbrol Enamel Thinners
86 Light Olive
150 Forest Green
159 Khaki Drab
33 Matt Black
Mig Productions Thinner For Washes
502 Abteilung oil paint, buff, Light Earth,
Light Rust, Dark Rust
Dark Wash
Green For Light Green Filter
AK Interactive Dust Effects
Vallejo Flat Varnish
Vallejo 169 Black
150 German Camo Black Brown
306 Dark Rubber
Vallejo Face Painting Set
Revells Leopard 2A4 is a fine
kit on which to add details and
accessories, the completed model
being very good as a result.
ACCESSORIES
Karaya Leopard tow cables
Verlinden Productions NATO Tank Crew
19/08/2014 14:14
01/08/2014 09:34
Tamiyas Leopard
is one of the best
kits available of
this vehicle and an
absolute joy to build.
01/08/2014 09:34
CAMOUFLAGE NETS
A FAR FROM NEW IDEA
If you chose to build a collection
of modern vehicles, there is going
to come a time when you will need
to model items of soft camouflage
such as nets, rags and even foliage.
Though painted in colours
designed to hide their shape on the
modern battlefield, tank crews learn
quickly how to further conceal their
vehicles, with the addition of these
items and that means as modellers
we need to try and imitate that in
miniature, too.
There are many ways to do this,
from off the shelf nets and foliage
sets both material and more
The left-hand side of the side was similarly detailed. Adding further to the candid look of the
model, the rearmost section of skirt was folded up, plastic rod helping create the illusion of
a hinge. Note that the steps running along the bottom edge of the skirt were removed from
the kit parts, carefully sanded to around half of their thickness and then fixed in place with
Gunze Sangyo Mr Cement S.
A view of the
completed model,
assembled and
ready to paint. This
image reveals just
how different this
model looks now,
compared to one
built out of the box.
01/08/2014 09:34
The rags and hessian strips were modelled using both Magic Sculp for the rags and Green stuff for the delicate strips and sheets
of hessian. These were both mixed and then rolled out into thin sheets before either cutting then into squares and strips, or as
seen here, tearing them to create delicate, ragged edges. Soft brush and sculpting tools helped manipulate them into shape, water,
applied with a brush, being the binding agent needed to keep each piece in place. The netting was applied in small sections after
soaking each piece in dilute PVA adhesive, layers of net and hessian being laid one on top of the other until the effect was as
random and natural as possible.
in action, with
both the Dutch
Leopard 2A4NL
and the 2A6M
seen here, liberally covered in these
sheets. This is perhaps where a little
more experience and sculpting skill
comes into play, larger sections of
rolled out putty being needed to
recreate these flowing sections of
material and there smaller straps
and ties. Its not something that
should be avoided though, as the
path to completion is fun and the
results worthwhile you just have to
plan ahead
19/08/2014 14:17
The tracks were painted with Tamiya Dark Iron and then weathered along with the
wheels, using washes and pigments fixed in place with both white spirit and pigment
fixer. Once happy with the results, these items can be fixed in place ready for further
weathering to blend them in with the surrounding hull.
01/08/2014 09:35
DRAWING UP A LIST
OF THINGS TO DO
Before beginning any new model
its important to gather together all
available reference material and
then write a list of jobs that need to
be done. This is particularly important when building a model such as
this where you will be carrying out
your own conversion and not relying on an aftermarket set to guide
you through the process.
Here is the list of tasks needed to
complete this model:
Assemble the basic Tamiya kit
following kit instructions.
Remove location points for initial
smoke discharger mounts, from
both sides of the turret.
Rebuild new six up, two down
smoke discharger mounts using
kit parts together with Evergreen
plasticard, rod and strip.
Detail mounts for turret stowage
bins with rod and strip.
Add fixing clamps to upper hull
for towing cables, right and left.
Replace towing cables with either
picture hanging wire or aftermarket
items (Karaya being used here).
Replace flag mounting tubes on
the turret side with fine brass
tubing.
Remove unarmoured section
of the side skirts from their
mounting rails and replace with
new sections cut from 0.5mm
plasticard. Scribe in joint lines
(carefully lining them up with
joints on preserved mounting rail)
and then detail with fine bolts
The rubber flaps hanging from the nose of the vehicle were made from lead foil hung from a length
of brass rod. These were painted Tamiya Rubber black and then oversprayed with a very thin mix of
Humbrol Dark Earth and AK Interactive Dust Effects. Once in place, the colour was blended away in
vertical strokes using a brush dampened with thinners. Several further layers of lighter and darker
earth shades flicked on using an old brush, finished them off.
THIS FEATURE
Through this chapter we take you
through the building of this model
and reveal as many of the new
details that were added to the
model as we possibly can. All of
the additional features have been
created with very basic tools and
materials and as such, should
appeal to the developing modeller
keen to stretch out a little and
create something a touch more
advanced than a kit built straight
from the box.
01/08/2014 09:35
As with the rubber mats, the rear hull was further weathered with several layers
of splattered paint, each applied thinly with an old flat brush.
All of the aforementioned stages combined to create a filthy-looking rear hull. Coloured lights help to
break up the monotony of the finish. Note the anodised steel tow cables.
In order to recreate a delicate dusty finish on the upper hull, very thin layers of our Dark
Earth/Dust Effects colour were airbrushed around, details, panels and the like and then
left to dry for a few minutes. The colour was then wiped away using soft, flat brushes and
cotton buds moistened with white spirit to leave faint traces of dust around these features.
Dragging the paint down panels also imparted the look of rainwashed dust and dirt as can
be seen on the upper lid of this stowage bin.
Multiple layers of Khaki, Buff, NATO Green and Olive Drab acrylics were needed to bring
out the detail on the nets and rags. Some tea leaves were mixed with some PVA glue and
Vallejo USA Green and then stippled onto the nets to further accentuate the leaf detail
seen in the reference shots. Once dry, the nets were drybrushed with Humbrol Khaki Drill,
Grass Green and US Light Green. Dry pigments added the finishing touch.
01/08/2014 09:35
Further strips
of hessian were
cut out and then
fixed in place with
superglue, each
one being carefully
lifted and bent
backwards, to look
as though floating in
the wind.
MODEL SPEC
01/08/2014 09:35
1.
2.
3.
4.
2. There are
plenty of details
on the glacis plate
including spare track
links, grousers and
that towing shackle.
Note the weathering
on the shackle
and compare it to
the relatively new
paintwork that
surrounds it.
3. The indicator light
on the mudguard
is surrounded by
this delicate guard
rail. Note the
folded mirror and
appearance of the
unit markings.
4. The turret is a
mass of panels and
bolts. The anti-slip
is noticeable in this
shot and must be
added to any model
of this vehicle if not
already a feature of
the kit being used to
build it.
Our Leopard
2A6 basks in the
summer sun.
01/08/2014 09:36
5.
6.
7.
8.
5. Gunsight housing
reveals its optical
glass and open
doors.
6. Stowed
camouflage netting
in the right-hand,
turret bin. The split
pins and strapping
are both noteworthy
elements of this
shot.
7. The Dutch
Leopard 2A6s
feature the same
smoke dischargers
as the earlier A4/5.
Note the rubber
cabs and retaining
wires. Note also
that the racks are
painted separately
from the rest of
the vehicle, their
colouration in
this shot, being
different from
the surrounding
camouflage.
9.
10.
8. Power cables
run under the
discharger racks
to power each one.
Though hardly
visible in 1:35m
this would be an
interesting detail
to add.
9. The aerial
mounts are often
poorly replicated in
miniature heres
what they should
look like!
11.
12.
10. MG mount
and rail. Note the
locking handle.
11. The
commanders
Peri sight. The
cleanliness of this
very important
piece of kit is
noteworthy, as is
the red beading
that surrounds the
glass.
12. The massive
gun breach for the
Rheinmetall 120
mm gun.
01/08/2014 09:36
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
15. A close-up of
that open storage
locker reveals
some of its secrets
including gun
cleaning rods, fluid
bottles, axe and
cleaning brushes.
16. The exhaust
outlets are found on
the rear hull plate,
rather than sides
of the upper hull
as on the earlier,
Leopard 1.
17. Another open
bin with more tools.
These lockers have
helped to de-clutter
the Leopard 2
series, allowing
tools such as this
to be removed
from the exterior
of the vehicle and
carefully locked
away. Note labels
under each tool.
19.
20.
01/08/2014 09:36
21.
22.
23.
25.
24.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
01/08/2014 09:36
IN MINIATURE
Initially I was hoping to build the
HobbyBoss Leopard straight from
the box, with only some very minor
detailing, but as construction got
underway, it soon became clear
that the accuracy and quality of
detailing and parts was less than
acceptable.
After a quick conversation with
Spencer, I got the green light to
use the Tamiya hull in place of the
HobbyBoss item, which is where
most of the problem areas lay.
Thanks to the near identical parts
breakdown from the two manufacturers swapping and mixing
parts was a very simple procedure.
Detailing was still kept to an absolute minimum: a few items from a
Voyager photo-etched detailing set
designed for the Tamiya Leopard
2A5, along with some brass wire
to replace the solid grab handles
found on the hull. Lastly, the turret
periscopes were made using party
confetti to simulate the laser-proof
coating seen on the real items.
These were all fixed in place using
low odour superglue for prevent
fogging of these parts.
01/08/2014 09:37
01/08/2014 09:37
In these two photos we can see how the grip tape panels are way too thick on the HobbyBoss hull. At this point I decided to
proceed with construction using the Tamiya hull, as correcting the HB part would involve too much work.
HobbyBoss parts along with photo-etched parts from Voyager and brass wire handles are
being used to detail the hull. The copper cable comes in the Voyager photo-etched detail set.
The lower rear hull plate has to be taken from the HB kit as this part differs from the
German version depicted in the Tamiya kit. Note the drivers reversing camera at the top
centre of the engine grilles.
01/08/2014 09:37
The prominent weld seams are missing from the turret lifting
eyes, so these were added using thin strips of plastic card.
Weapon of choice
for assembly of this
kit: Gunze Sangyo
Mr Cement S.
They were then softened with liquid cement and then the
weld effect simulated by stippling with a Micro-chisel
Due to the extra armour package fitted to the bow of the DK,
the Tamiya side skirts will need modifying. This is simply a
case of removing the first section on each side with a razor
saw and attaching the HB parts.
19/08/2014 14:22
This paste is
applied to the
wheel rims and
repeatedly stippled
to ensure it dries to
a rough texture.
Before continuing with the rest of the painting
and weathering, the running gear receives a
coat of dust and mud. To start with the wheel
hubs are coated with Pigment Fixer before
being sprinkled with European Earth using a
large make-up brush.
Here we can
see a completed
wheel. The smaller
splashes are
applied by 'flicking'
on the same mud
mix with the aid of
an old toothbrush.
With the basic camouflage, markings and some initial airbrush dust effects in place, it is time to add the first of
the washes. For this wash, we are using an enamel dark brown wash intended for green camouflaged vehicles.
01/08/2014 09:37
Once this enamel dust effect has had some time to dry,
streaking is added by first dampening the surface and then
carefully dragging down over the surfaces using a soft chisel
edged brush.
01/08/2014 09:37
THE LEOPARD C2 IN
CANADIAN SERVICE
Anthony Sewards provides some
detailed background information for
modellers keen to build the MEXAS,
in miniature.
he Canadian Leopard 1
C2 is an updated German
Leopard 1A5 turret added
to the original hulls from
1978 with the new turrets fitted with
the Leopard 2 fire control EMES
18 fire-control system, which was
developed in Germany in the 1980s.
The 105 mm L7A3 gun is capable
of engaging targets day and night,
while on the move under adverse
weather conditions, through the
use of a fully stabilized fire control
system with an integrated thermal
sight imaging system and laser
range-finder. The Leopard C2
Tank is also fitted with a gunner's
secondary fire control system and
a commander's fire control system.
It has two 7.62 mm C6 FN machine
guns. One is mounted inside the
turret acting as a coaxial MG and
another can be mounted externally
on either the commander's or the
loader's, station.
The Leopard C2 is also fitted with
two banks of four smoke grenade
launchers on the turret that can fire
smoke or high explosive grenades.
The tank may be sealed-off
against nuclear-biological-chemical
(NBC) threats. It is a minimummaintenance armoured fighting
vehicle and complete replacement
of the engine and transmission is
possible in 30 minutes under field
conditions. When properly fitted
with a conning tower, it is capable
of deep-fording or submerged fording where riverbanks are prepared
for exit and entry.
When the Canadian C2 first
entered service in November
1999, the tank fleet went from 114
main battle tanks to 66 completed
Leopards. In 2003 Canada had
decided to replace its aging
Leopard tanks with the light
armoured vehicle (LAV) III Mobile
Gun System (MGS). This MGS platform was to be a wheeled platform
mounting a 105 mm main gun with
an auto loader.
With this decision going ahead to
replace the tracked Leopard fleet
with a wheeled fleet, the department
of national defence (DND) started
to dispose of the Leopard 1 fleet
with selling to companies in North
America twenty-three Leopard hulls.
Below left:
Covered in dust
and additional
stowage, the
MEXAS looks right
at home amongst
the dust and dirt
of Afghanistan.
Below right:
Seeing so many
Leopards so close
together must
have been a sight
to behold! Note the
detail variations in
this shot.
01/08/2014 09:46
19/08/2014 14:24
FURTHER NOTES
A Squadron of the Lord
Strathconas Horse (Royal
Canadians) was the only Canadian
tank squadron to fight the whole
time while deployed from FebSept 2007, complete with only C2
MEXAS. This was also the bitterest
fighting of any rotation with the
loss of 26 Canadian soldiers from
the battle groups. The follow on
Canadian Tank Squadron rotations
had a mixture of the C2 MEXAS
Leopards and Leopard 2s, right up
to the end of combat operations in
July 2011.
All deployed Canadian Leopard
tanks and the MEXAS kits were
painted over in CARC green, but
there were a few hulls that had
the NATO three-tone paint. The
Leopard 1 after rebuilding to make
them into C2s, were first striped
down and sprayed with a TAN
primer, and then given the anti-slip
coating then painted in the CARC
green paint. So after some wear
and tear you would be able to see
the TAN primer underneath. MEXAS
kits were also primed in this same
Tan primer then CARC painted with
white MEXAS kit numbers added to
the back panel. Canada bought a
total of nineteen complete MEXAS
armour kits.
Once the combat operations were
Above left:
Additional stowage
fixed to the turret
bustle and the open
bin on the hull side,
are all details worth
modelling in 1:35.
Above right: A
factory-fresh
MEXAS ready for
service.
have Velcro panels for the maintainers to work on the mantlet. The
mantlet sim-fire plate should be
25% larger and add I shaped
brackets.
3. The Commanders TRP sight
cover is small, will need to be 25%
larger. The TRP rubber seals require
to be spit apart to look like two flat
rings.
4. Leopard turret top should have a
coat of anti-skid added.
5. The MEXAS armour side panel
attachment pads (pucks) are not
correct, the bottom rear ones
should be tear-drop shaped. The
front pads should have additional ladder type brackets. With
the MEXAS armour removed you
should see the attachment mount
that would be fitted to the turret
(metal ladder bolted onto the turret
side, to swing the armour away
from turret for engine maintenance)
6. Top steel plate fitted on top of
the MEXAS armour should have a
coat of scale anti-skid.
7. Smoke grenade launchers missing chain for caps and launcher
wiring.
8. Side bore brush bin and signals
wire container on the left rear of the
turret right behind the loaders side.
Not all C2 MEXAS had them added.
9. The crew commanders area has
the wrong number of episcopes,
missing one. Both turret hatches
are missing combat lock hinges.
10. The left hand armoured plate
that mounts the bore brush and
signals wire container, needs to be
removed and replaced by the field
modified armoured plate to protect
the Thales electric counter measures unit. The ECM unit is missing
as well.
11. The antenna mounting units
(AMUs) are not the correct type, will
01/08/2014 09:46
need to be replaced.
12. Missing flag post mounts left
and right sides by the AMUs.
13. The GPS antenna mount
is wrong and will require to be
modified.
14. Rear back bin, will require a coat
of scale anti-skid on the top cover.
15. Right rear back bin stowage lid,
should have a red air recognition
panel attached to it. Standard on all
deployed C2 MEXAS.
16. Missing the antenna bag under
the back bin (not all had them
mounted)
17. Supplied Jerry cans are
incorrect shape.
18. The road wheels require back
plate, and the hubs are the wrong
shape.
19. The drivers armoured cover for
the episcopes require the wiper
cable.
20. Missing the fording plug posts
on left side of upper front hull.
21. Missing headlight cables.
22. The tow cables hull attachment
points are way too thick, PE would
fix this problem.
23. The rear drivers toolbox is
missing the locking chain and
stowage bracket and hinges are
incorrect.
24. The rear track adjustor tool
mounted on the rear deck to wrong.
We operated with a modified type
due to the Mexas side armour. This
tool was never mounted there on
the deployed versions.
25. The gun crutch or travel lock is
undersized by 25 %.
26. Tank telephone handle will
require to be replaced as they are
very noticeably L angled.
27. Will have to drill out gun crutch
spare position brackets.
28. Missing rear side skirt half-
Smaller detail
changes would
find their way
onto this standard
MEXAS before its
time was up on the
battlefield.
Markings
01/08/2014 09:47
he Modular Expandable
Armor System (MEXAS)
is a ceramic composite
armour developed by the
German company IBD Deisenroth
Engineering. MEXAS was introduced in 1994 and has been
applied on over 20,000 combat
vehicles worldwide.
The exact composition of
MEXAS is secret, but it is known
that MEXAS consist of a splinter
foil-like specialized Nylon, ceramics
(Aluminium oxide), and a backing
like kevlar. MEXAS also includes
spall-liner. MEXAS is normally not
the only protection of a vehicle, it is
normally overlaid on rolled homogeneous armour.
MEXAS exists in three versions.
MEXAS-L (light) offers protection
against small-calibre rounds and
can also be fitted on soft-skinned
vehicles like MAN military trucks.
MEXAS-M (medium) protects
the vehicle against auto cannon
and RPGs with HEAT warheads.
MEXAS-H is for use on tanks and
other heavy armoured vehicles.
MEXAS is used on several vehicles of the German Army including
the ATF Dingo, the Panzerhaubitze
2000, Fuchs 1A7 and the Leopard .
Vehicles may be fitted with
MEXAS prior to deployment
on peace-keeping missions.
Norwegian M113s and German
MAN trucks have been fitted with
MEXAS prior to their deployment in
KFOR. Some Canadian Leopard 1s
have been upgraded with MEXAS.
Uparmoured Canadian Leopard 1s
have been used in KFOR and as
part of the ISAF in Afghanistan.
01/08/2014 10:05
01/08/2014 10:05
The individual
torsion bars.
No detail on the
back of the road
wheels.
The finished
suspension in the
lower hull.
BASIC ASSEMBLY
In general, basic assembly is fast
and straightforward. I started with
the running gear and its torsion
bar suspension. If you are careful
with placement of glue, precisely
delivering a spot only to the square
locating peg, the suspension will
remain fully workable. The wheels
will rotate thanks to the polythene
caps trapped between the halves
too. I decided not to add detail to
the back faces of the road wheels,
as it would be difficult to see under
the vehicle when it was sitting on
its tracks.
One of the blessings of this job is
01/08/2014 10:05
COMBAT READY
If you want to build a pristine vehicle immediately after the MEXAS
upgrade, you will be ready for
paint right now. However, I wanted
my model to represent one of the
Canadian Leopard C2 MEXAS
tanks operationally deployed in
Afghanistan from 2006. For this, I
needed to add some details.
Legends offer an upgrade set
that provides most of the parts that
you will need for an operational
Leopard C2 MEXAS. This is Item
No. LF1273. This was designed to
enhance the Legends MEXAS conversion, but I can confirm that all
the parts fit this new Takom kit too.
Before I added the kits MEXAS
armour to the turret, the rear panel
The distinctive
stowage bins
feature nice crisp
raised mouldings.
01/08/2014 10:05
The kit does not include non-slip surfaces. The turret roof
and top of the stowage bins were masked with Tamiya
tape in preparation for the new surface texture.
Legends from
Korea offer a
Leopard C2A1
MEXAS upgrade
to operational
standards.
19/08/2014 14:26
Raised rivets were cut from the kit mudguards before the supplemental
photo-etched parts were fitted.
CHIPPING
Now it was time to revisit the turret
roof, which had been previously
prepared with a barrier of Mig
Productions Absolute Chipping
medium between the yellowgreen primer and the dark green
camouflage.
I used a damp stiff brush to
gradually loosen the top coat.
Initially, this worked well, revealing
spots and flecks of yellow green,
helped by the texture of the non-slip
coating. Inside a minute though,
this gentle rubbing started to peel
back larger areas of paint not the
effect I was looking for at all! I suspect that the problem here is the
composition of the Lifecolor paint,
which almost has a vinyl quality
to it. This is fine when the paint is
intact the surface is smooth and
tough but it does not appear to
suit chipping. Next time I want to
chip a vehicle, I will use a topcoat
of Tamiya acrylics instead.
In order to make the big chunks
of peeled-back paint look a bit
more convincing, I tore of a small
corner of a kitchen sponge and
dabbed first dark green paint over
the effected area, then repeated the
process with Tamiya XF-4 Yellow
Green. The sponge was dipped
sparingly in the paint and wiped
almost dry before this second
Matching
lengths of
square and
angle profile
strip were cut
using NWSLs
The Chopper.
The photo-etched cooling unit and ECM cover, as well as the new Kneadatite covers have been added to the cot frames. Straps for
antenna mounts; all supplied in the Legends upgrade.
the resin jerry cans and for the stowage were cut from Tamiya tape.
01/08/2014 10:07
MIG Productions
Absolute Chipping was
sprayed onto the turret
roof before the base
camouflage coat of
Lifecolor acrylic 4BO
Green. This was then
chipped off with a stiff
wet brush.
DUST, ANYONE?
One of the defining characteristics
of these operational Leopard C2A1
MEXAS tanks is a heavy layer of
dust, especially along the sides
and rear of the hull. Some vehicles
almost look like they are finished
in a two-tone tan and green finish,
such is the solid layer of fine dust.
I started with a very lightly
sprayed coat of Tamiya X-21 Flat
Base and XF-57 Buff, mixed about
50/50 and heavily thinned with
isopropylene alcohol. The Flat Base
lightens the colour of the paint and
adds a chalky quality to this stage
of the finishing. The pale dust base
was selectively sanded back, with
4000 grade Micromesh.
This was followed by streaks and
01/08/2014 10:06
Echelon Leopard
C2A1 MEXAS
decals, item no.
D356049.
01/08/2014 10:06
GO FIGURE
Djiti Productions has recently
released a nice 1:35 scale
Canadian Tank Crew figure that I
thought would lend some further
interest and a sense of scale.
The figure is supplied in four
resin pieces, including separate
arms and a head cast with helmet
and microphone in place. Casting
quality is excellent, and the pose
is relaxed and natural. This is an
impressive product.
Clean-up and assembly was fast,
with only a few smears of Tamiya
Surfacer needed where the arms
meet the torso. The head was not
attached at this stage, but both
the torso and neck were drilled out
to accept a toothpick handle for
painting.
The head was prepared with
Tamiya Fine White Primer (I find
that flesh-coloured paints cover
better over white); while the body
was sprayed with Grey Primer. Both
primers were shot straight from the
spray can.
The face and hands received
a base coat of Tamiya XF-15 Flat
Flesh followed by very thin lines
applied to the lips and eyes with
heavily thinned Vallejo Panzer
Aces acrylic 337 Highlight Ger.
(Black), which is actually a dark
brown shade. The flesh areas
next received a wash of Rowney
Georgian Oil Paint 221 Burnt Sienna
MENG Models
1:35 scale Pickup
kit includes some
useful accessories.
Three styles of
chilly bins are
supplied on the
accessories sprue.
Periscope lenses
were cut from selfadhesive Montex
Mask material that
had been painted
glossy dark blue.
01/08/2014 10:07
The Commander
figure is from Djiti.
Base colours
in place.
The basic
camouflage and
uniform colours
before final
weathering and
the flat coat.
The completed
Commander. I took
some liberties with
the uniform pattern
in the interests of
simplification.
19/08/2014 14:27
19/08/2014 14:28
CONCLUSION
MODEL SPEC
ACCESSORIES USED
Legends Item No. LF1273 Leopard C2
MEXAS Update Set
Djiti Production Item No. 35035 Canadian
Tank Crew
Flexible Tracks from Meng Model Item No.
TS-007 - Leopard 1 A3/A4
Echelon Fine Details Item No. D356049
Canadian Leopard C2A1 MEXAS (Part 2)
Little Lenses 3.5mm Clear; 2mm Red
TOOLS & MODELLING PRODUCTS USED
Kneadatite Blue-Yellow Two-Part Epoxy Putty
Evergreen: .060 Angle Strip; .030 x .030
Strip; Plastic Card
Kitchen Sponge
Copper Wire
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
Tamiya Masking Tape
Revell Contacta Plastic Glue
Selleys Super Glue
Tamiya Surfacer
Gators Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue
The contrast
between the paint,
the dust and the
exposed primer is
interesting.
19/08/2014 14:28
19/08/2014 14:29
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The completed
hull and running
gear. To this point,
construction is
quick and easy.
Rather that join the MEXAS panels to the hull individually, they
were brought together to form one large sub-assembly thus
allowing them to be adjusted for fit, before sliding the whole
thing in place.
01/08/2014 10:14
A detailed view of
the Orochi tracks.
I will definitely be
using these again
lacking many of the more sophisticated upgrades such as the cooling units and GPS seen later in
the vehicles service in Afghanistan.
Despite this, it is representative and
we feel captures the look of these
impressive tanks, their stowage and
less than clean finishes!
The anti-slip texture was applied, by mixing together talcum powder with Humbrol enamel and Once in place and still soft, any excess anti-slip was removed from around the details using
then thinning the mixture slightly with enamel thinners. This was then painted on to the model. a paintbrush dampened with some enamel thinners. Quick and easy.
01/08/2014 10:15
The bespoke sand shields came from the Real Model set. These were bent to shape
and then any additional pieces fixed in place using low-melt solder. This added
strength to the parts, allowing them to be deformed with ease. The headlights were
improved by the addition of some lead wire power cables. Note the plastic rod
details add to the towing shackles.
Tools of the trade for anyone wishing The canvass mantlet cover was improved with a Magic Sculp
to solder etched-brass pieces: flux,
inspection flap. Note also the additional details around the
a soldering iron, a paintbrush and
smoke dischargers.
some low-melt solder.
01/08/2014 10:14
In order to finish
the model, Tamiya
paints, thinned with
Mr Color Leveling
Thinner were used,
over an initial layer
of Tamiya Surface
Primer.
Several layers of colour were sprayed over the model, Tamiya NATO Green and Cockpit Green being the predominant shades used.
Carefully applied highlights and shadows helped to bring out the shape of this vehicle, carefully masked panels further accentuating
the MEXAS armour and its facetted shape. With the green in place and dry, the additional stowage was airbrushed in various khaki
and grey shades, the tones being kept in line with those applied to the rest of the model. This is one of the benefits of painting these
items in place: you can ensure they look as though they belong rather than looking like an afterthought.
An overall layer of Games Workshop Purity Seal preceded a pin wash with Mig Productions
The tracks were airbrushed with Tamiya Semi Gloss Black and then with a layer of Alclad II
Dark Wash. This was applied around all details, panel lines and areas of shadow and then
Polished Aluminium. The width of the wheels was then measured and strips of Tamiya masking
blended-in with a soft, flat brush, moistened with Migs Thinners For Washes and white spirit. tape applied to the inner faces of the tracks, before spraying them with a layer of Tamiya Dark
Iron. The result was a set of tracks that exhibited the highly polished look of the originals.
How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 73
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Initially, I decided to recreate the worn and dusty paint finish using the hairspray technique
and Tamiya Khaki, Buff and Deck Tan paints. The results though attractive, didnt really
capture the look of the original machine I was copying. Time for a rethink
In order to improve the look of the dust the bulk of the painted dust layers were
oversprayed with Vallejo Flat Vanish and then whilst still wet, stippled with a layer of Mig
Productions Pigments, European Earth and Beach Sand. The results were now much more in
keeping with the original. Whilst doing this constant referrals to my references were made
to ensure the weathering was as accurately portrayed as possible.
One of the problems with using pigments is that they can sometimes look out of scale.
To remedy this, the newly applied dust and the panels on which it sat, were carefully sanded
to smooth out the finish and force the dirt into the underlying green paintwork. The results
of that can be seen here.
Once happy with the dust, the detail was brought back out with a drybrushed layer of
Humbrol Matt Black. Though seemingly extreme, when done carefully, this can create
a wonderfully natural appearance, the black, blending seamlessly with the surrounding
paintwork.
Small scratches
were added to
the surface of the
model with a sharp,
coloured pencil.
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The dust and dirt thrown up on to the partly finished rear hull The dust was built up on the glacis plate and then left to
plate, contrast nicely with the anodised silver/grey tow cable. dry. Once so, a cotton bud moistened with white spirit was
used to work through the delicate pigment layer to create the
stained appearance that you see here.
HULL
Photo-etched dust guards
assembled from Real Model parts,
each being soldered together,
before fixing to the front of hull with
superglue.
Power cables added to headlights using lead wire.
Locking handles added to towing
brackets on the glacis, made from
Evergreen plastic rod.
Round bolts on the MEXAS
panels drilled out and replaced with
hex-bolts created with a Historex
punch & Die and 0.5mm plasticard.
Upper rail of sand skirts detailed
with the addition of small bolts.
Stowage bins on each side of the
hull detailed with reworked hinges
and clasps both from Evergreen
plastic strip and rod.
Tow cables replaced with fine,
brass, picture hanging wire,
annealed to make it more flexible.
Engine deck vent replaced with
Real Model etched-brass piece.
Towing shackles detailed with
lead wire seen in reference shots to
keep clevis pins in place.
Solid handle on top of stowage
box replaced with Evergreen plastic
strip and rod.
A metallic finish
was added to the
MG rings around the
hatches with graphite
powered worked in
using a cotton bud.
Note the look of the
aerials in this shot
both of which were
made from lengths
of .3mm steel wire
and how careful
painting has made
them a little more
interesting.
The red ID patch
on the upper turret
adds a much-needed
splash of colour.
This was made
from a section of
rolled-out Green
Stuff airbrushed with
Tamiya Flat Red and
then weathered with
pigments.
Dry pigments were applied to further bulk-out the weathering around the model.
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MODEL SPEC
TOOLS AND MODELLING
PRODUCTS USED:
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
Tamiya Masking Tape
GF9 Super Glue
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
Daco Strong Setting Solution
19/08/2014 14:31
01/08/2014 10:15
2.
3.
4. In order to
mount the GPS
unit, a section of
the turret armour
was removed and
replaced with this
field-applied, plate
here seen painted
black.
5. GPS unit in
detail. This item of
kit is included in the
Real Models set.
6. The smoke
dischargers are
mounted on the
sides of the turret
in clusters of four.
Though well dealt
with in the Takom
kit, extra detail, as
seen here, would
not go amiss. Not
the colour and
appearance of the
anti-slip on the roof
of the additional
armour.
4.
5.
6.
01/08/2014 10:19
7. An interesting
little feature that
is missing from
the Takom kit can
be seen here.
Plasticard and strip
would make short
order of this small
detail.
8. With the bin
missing, its
mounting lugs can
be seen. This would
be a fun addition to
the basic kit. Note
also in this shot the
stowed ammunition
container and coolbox, strapped to the
turret again, both
of which are found
in Real Models
update set.
7.
8.
9.
10.
9. There is a large
slab of MEXAS
armour fitted to the
glacis plate of the
C2 heres what
that area looks like
with the armour
removed
10. The wheels take
a hammering in
service!
11. Later MEXAS
were fitted with a
cooling thermal
blanket and
refrigeration unit
to keep the crew
comfortable.
Here, you can
see the turret
covered in one of
those blankets,
the refrigerator
being fixed to the
left-hand wall of
the turret bustle.
Though also seen
on the hull, that
area does not
seem to have been
covered in this
case. Note the lessthan-fine look of the
aerials.
12. Rear exhaust
detail. Note the look
of the side skirts,
the missing bin and
the odd, red-oxide
colours seen in this
shot.
11.
13.
12.
14.
01/08/2014 10:19
APPENDIX
LEOPARD 1
Tamiya 35064
Revell 3017
LEOPARD 1A1/A2
Heller 81125
Italeri 374
LEOPARD 1A3
Meng Model TS-007
Nichimo 3533
http://leopardclub.ca/
LEOPARD 1A4
Italeri 224 - also released as Revell
H-2126 in Germany
MBK Models MBK35224
Meng Model TS-007
Tamiya 35112
Academy 1312/TA028
Heller 81136 (new edition kit number)
LEOPARD 1A5
Revell 3028
Italeri 6481
Takom #2004 - Leopard 1A5 / C2 2 in 1
LEOPARD C2
Takom #2004 - Leopard 1A5 / C2 2 in 1
Takom #2003 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
80 Appendix
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CANADA
C1
Maple Leaf Models MLM1006 - Leopard C1 early
conversion (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1022 - Leopard C1 late
conversion (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1026 - Leopard C1 late
update (OOP)
Trackjam Models TJM001 - Leopard C1 early (OOP)
Real Models 35210
C1 MEXAS
Maple Leaf Models MLM1027 - C1 MEXAS conversion (OOP)
C1 GENERIC
Maple Leaf Models MLM1025 - Leopard C1 (Late)
Turret Bustle bin (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1017 - Leopard C1 lower
turret parts (OOP)
C2
Maple Leaf Models MLM1010 - Leopard C2
Conversion (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1014 - OOP
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35114
C2 MEXAS
Legend Productions LF1272 - C2 MEXAS conversion
Legend Productions LF1273 - C2 MEXAS update set
Legend Productions LF1285 - C2 MEXAS
Legend Productions LF1284
Maple Leaf Models MLM1031 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
up-armour kit (OOP)
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35115 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
(as used in Afghanistan)
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35116 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
with thermal cover (as used in Afghanistan)
Real Models RMA 35202 - PE detail set for Leopard
C2 MEXAS
Real Models RMA 35269
TAKOM C2 MEXAS
Trackjam Models TJM-003 - This set includes a
complete turret so it may be used with any Revell or
Italeri Leopard 1 kit
ALL CANADIAN LEOPARDS
Maple Leaf Models MLM1023 - modern Canadian
jerry can racks (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM2001 - modern plastic fuel
cans (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM2002 - modern plastic water
cans (OOP)
DENMARK
Accurate Armour C072 - 1A5DK conversion set
Legend Productions LF1282 - 1A5DK SFOR conversion
set Legend Productions LF1283- 1A5DK UN Conversion
set, designed for use with the Meng 1A3/A4 (TS-007)
SUSPENSION UPGRADE
Suspension upgrades were applied to late Canadian
C1 (and C2), Italian 1A5IT and Belgian 1A5BE
Leopards.
Centro Ricerche Storiche (CRS) Art.03/35
PHOTO-ETCH
ABER
German clasps and clamps - 35A93
Net with interlaced mesh 0.5 x 0.5 mm S19
ALLIANCE MODELWORKS
LW35046 German late WWII tool
EDUARD
Leopard 1A4 (Tamiya) 35084 (OOP)
Leopard 1A2 (Italeri) 35338
Leopard 1A4 (Tamiya) 35753
Leopard 1A4 Zoom (Tamiya) TP075
Leopard 1A5 (Italeri) 36159
Flakpanzer Gepard (Tamiya) 35654
ET MODEL
E35-207 - Leopard 1A3/A4 (Meng)
INSIDE THE ARMOUR
35071 - Modern German Tool Clamps
PERFECT SCALE MODELLBAU
Leopard 1 engine grill PE002
VOYAGER
Leopard 1 engine grill AP024
Modern German clamps and clasps - AP036 Leopard
1A3 or 1A4 (for Meng TS-007), PE35631 (1A3) or
PE35636 (1A4)
ROAD WHEELS
The Tamiya road wheels are too small in diameter
while the Italeri/Revell wheels have little grooves and
under-sized bolts.
Accurate Armour A068
Leopard Workshop LW001
Maple Leaf Models MLM1013 - worn Leopard 1 road
wheels (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1024 (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1035 (OOP)
Mouse House Enterprises MA142
Mouse House Enterprises MA143
Mouse House Enterprises MA144
Perfect Scale Models 35036
ACCESSORIES
AMMUNITION
Peddinghaus # 120
DOZER BLADE
Mouse Armour MA119
MINE ROLLERS
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35069 - Leopard 1 and 2
mine rollers
TOW CABLES
Eureka XXL -ER-3507
Karaya - TCR05
Minimeca - 3520
MR Modellbau - MR-50022
ENGINE/POWER-PACK
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35025 - Leopard 1 powerpack and engine compartment
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35104 - Leopard 1 powerpack
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35105 - Leopard 1 engine bay
Real Models RMA3504
SMOKE DISCHARGERS
(WEGMANN 76 MM MBGD)
ET Models ER35-028
Lion Roar LAM038 - modern German smoke
dischargers
MR Modellbau - MR-35209
Orange Hobby G35-108
Voyager - ME-A016
TRACKS
Elite 35H01 (also released as HKCW TL-3501)
Fruilmodel ATL-141
MENG SPS-016
Orochi PF-003
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35037
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35024
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35109
Spade Ace Models SAT-35181
Spade Ace Models SAT-35181S
GUNS
MAIN GUN WITHOUT THERMAL COVER
Accurate Armour B35009
Model Point 3558
RB 35B100
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35108
Tamiya
MAIN GUN WITH THERMAL COVER
Model Point 3558-1
Orange Hobby G35-138
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35021
Voyager VBS0182
Voyager VBS0186
01/08/2014 10:20
FINAL THOUGHTS
FINAL THOUGHTS
82 Final Thoughts
01/08/2014 10:21
Visit www.adhbooks.com
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Website: www.adhpublishing.com
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