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RICK STEVES

A Walking Tour of Tallinn

Take in the beautiful sights of the capital city and the central town square from viewpoints on high
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By Rick Steves
Smithsonian.com, February 01, 2010, Subscribe

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built in 1900 over the supposed grave of a legendary Estonian hero. (LOOK Die Bildagentur der
Fotografen GmbH / Alamy)

This walk explores the two towns of Tallinn. The city once

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consisted of two feuding medieval towns separated by a wall. The

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upper townon the hill, called Toompeawas the seat of

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government ruling Estonia. The lower town was an autonomous

Hanseatic trading center filled with German, Danish, and Swedish
merchants who hired Estonians to do their menial labor.
Two steep, narrow streetsthe Long Leg and the Short
Legconnect Toompea and the lower town. This walk winds

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through both towns, going up the short leg and down the long leg. If

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youre coming from the ferry terminal, youll enter the town at #1

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(see map). If youre coming from Town Hall Square, walk out to the

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Fat Margaret Tower.

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[1] To Fat Margaret Tower and Start of Walk: From the ferry

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terminal, hike toward the tall tapering spire, go through a small

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park, and enter the Old Town through the archway by the squat Fat

10. History & Archaeology

Margaret Tower. Just outside the tower on a bluff overlooking the

harbor is a broken black arch, a memorial to 852 people who

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perished in 1994 when the Estonia passenger ferry sank during its
Tallinn-Stockholm run. The details remain murky, and conspiracy

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theorists still think Sweden sank it. (The boat went down very
quickly; Sweden has never allowed any divers to explore the
remains, and now theres talk of entombing it in concrete, leading
some to believe the incident involved some kind of nuclear materialrelated mischief.)
Fat Margaret Tower guarded the entry gate of the town (in medieval
times, the sea came much closer to this point than it does today).
The relief above the gate dates from the 16th century, during the
Hanseatic times, when Sweden took Estonia from Germany. (The
paltry Estonian Maritime Museum in the tower costs 50 kr and is
open WedSun 10:0018:00.)
Just inside the gate, youll feel the economic power of those early

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German trading days. The merchants home nicknamed the Three

Sisters (on your right with your back to the sea) is a textbook
example of a merchant home/warehouse/office from the
15th-century Hanseatic Golden Age. The charmingly carved door
near the corner evokes the wealth of Tallinns merchant class.

In The Magazine
Head up Pikk (which means long) street.
[2] Pikk Street: This street, the medieval merchants main drag
leading from the harbor up into town, is lined with interesting
buildingsmany were warehouses complete with cranes on the

April 2013

Rick Steves' Europe: Tallinn,

Estonia

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America
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gables. Youll pass St. Olavs Church (Oleviste Kirik, a Baptist church

Map of Tallinn Walking Tour

today), notable for what was once the tallest spire in Scandinavia. Its

(PDF)

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plain whitewashed interior is skippable, though climbing 234 stairs

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up the tower rewards you with a great view (church entry free, daily

Into the Okavang Delta

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10:0018:00; tower-30 kr, open AprilOct only; www.oleviste.ee).

Podcast: Travel with Rick Steves

While tourists see only a peaceful scene today, locals strolling this

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street are reminded of dark times under Moscows rule. The KGB

Rick Steves' Europe: Tallinn,

used the tower at St. Olavs Church to block Finnish TV signals. And

Estonia

the ministry of police (nearby at Pikk 59) was, before 1991, the

Estonias Singing Revolution

sinister local headquarters of the KGB. Creative interrogation

Sailing to Estonia

methods were used here. Locals well knew that from here started
the road of suffering, as Tallinns troublemakers were sent to Siberian gulags. The ministry building was called

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the tallest building in town (because when youre in the basement, you can already see Siberia). Notice the

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bricked-up windows at foot level.

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The Navitrolla Gallerii (at #36) is much happier, filled with art by a well-known Estonian artist. His whimsical,
animal-themed prints are vaguely reminiscent of Where the Wild Things Are (MonFri 10:0018:00, SatSun
10:0016:00, next to Hell Hunt Pub, tel. 631-3716, www.navitrolla.ee).
Farther up Pikk, the fine Hall of the Black Heads Society (at #26) dates from 1440. For 500 years, until Hitler
invited Estonian Germans back to their historical fatherland in the 1930s, this was a German merchants club.
Until the 19th century, Estonians were essentially serfs under German merchants who dominated the economy.
The German big shots were part of the Great Guild, while the German little shots had to make do with the Black
Heads Society. This was a union or business fraternity limited to single German men. In Hanseatic towns, when a

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fire or battle had to be fought, single men were deployed first, because they had no family. Single men were
considered unattached to the community and therefore had no opportunity for power in the Hanseatic social
structure. When a Black Head Society member married a local woman, he was considered to have a vested
interest in the towns economy and well-being. He could then join the more prestigious Great Guild, and with
that status, a promising future economically and politically often opened up.
Today the hall is a concert venue. Its namesake black head is the head of St. Mauritius, an early Christian
martyr beheaded in Switzerland (A.D. 200). Reliefs decorating the building recall Tallinns Hanseatic glory days.
Architecture fans enjoy several fanciful facades along here (including the boldly Art Nouveau #18 and the
colorful, eclectic facade across the street).
[3] Great Guild Hall: Pikk, home to the big-shot merchants, feels Germanic because it once was. The Great

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Guild Hall was the epitome of wealth, with its wide (and therefore highly taxed) front.
Across the street, at #16, the famous Maiasmokk (Sweet Tooth) coffee shop, which was the sweetest place in
town during Soviet days, remains a fine spot for a cheap coffee-and-pastry break.
[4] Church of the Holy Ghost (Phavaimu kirik): Sporting a great clock from 1633, the church is worth a
visit. The plaque on the wall is in Estonian and Russian. Before 1991, things were designed for inner tourism
(within the USSR). This church retains its 14th-century design. In back, the old flag of Tallinnthe same as

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todays red and white Danish flagrecalls the 13th-century Danish rule. (The name Tallinn means City of the

Stars and Stripes Throw

Danes.) The Danes sold Tallinn to the German Teutonic Knights, who lost it to the Swedes, who lost it to the

Our exclusive Stars and Stripes Throw

Russians. Except for two decades in the early 20th century, Tallinn remained Russian until Estonia regained its
independence in 1991. The windows are mostly from the 1990s (suggested 15 kr donation, Phavaimu 2, tel.

is a three-layer adaption of the 1861

Stars and Stripes quilt... $65

644-1487, www.eelk.ee). The church hosts English-language Lutheran services Sundays at 15:00.
From the church, tiny Saiakang lane (meaning White Breadbread, cakes, and pies have been sold here
since medieval times) leads to...
[5] Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats): A marketplace through the centuries, this is the natural springboard
for Old Town explorations. The cancan of fine old buildings is a reminder that this was the center of the
autonomous lower town, a merchant city of Hanseatic traders. Once this was the scene of criminals chained to
pillories for public humiliation and knights showing off in chivalrous tournaments; today its full of
Scandinavians savoring the cheap beer, children singing on the bandstand, and cruise-ship groups listening to
their guides. (While youll see few Americans early and late, the old center is inundated with them throughout
midday, following the numbered ping-pong paddles carried high by their well-scrubbed, young local guides.)
The 15th-century Town Hall (Raekoda) dominates the square; its now a museum, and climbing its tower earns a
commanding view. On the opposite side of the square, across from #12 in the corner, the pharmacy (Raeapteek)
dates from 1422 and claimsas do manyto be Europes oldest. While its still a functioning pharmacy, the decor
goes back to medieval times and welcomes guests with painted ceiling beams, English descriptions, and
long-expired aspirin (MonFri 9:0019:00, Sat 9:0017:00, closed Sun). Town Hall Square is ringed by touristy
restaurants and inviting cafs. The tourist information office is a block away (behind Town Hall).
Facing the Town Hall, head right up Dunkri street one block to the...
[6] Wheel Well: The well is named for the high-tech wheel, a marvel that made fetching water easier. Most of
the Old Towns buildings are truly old, dating from the 15th- and 16th-century boom-time. Decrepit before the
1991 fall of the USSR, Tallinn is now more affluent and has been quickly revitalized.
Turn left on Rtli street and walk two blocks to...
[7] St. Nicholas (Niguliste) Church: This 13th-century Gothic church-turned-art-museum served the
German merchants and knights that lived in this neighborhood 500 years ago. The Russians bombed it in World
War II: In one terrible night, on March 9, 1944, Tallinn was hit, and the area around this churchonce a
charming district, dense with medieval buildingswas flattened (35 kr, WedSun 10:0017:00, closed
MonTue; organ concerts Sat and Sun at 16:00).
From the church, turn right and climb the steep, cobbled, Lhike jalg (Short Leg Lane). Its lined with
quality Estonian craft shops. At the gate, notice the original oak door, one of two gates through the wall
separating the two cities. This passage is still the ritual meeting point of the mayor and prime minister
whenever there is an important agreement between town and country. Dont go through the gate, but continue
straight into the view courtyard. Then climb right toward the Russian Cathedral for a good view of the wall.
[8] Danish Kings Garden: Stand in the former garden of the Danish king. The imposing city wall once had 46
towersthe stout, round tower way ahead is nicknamed Kiek in de Kk. (While fun to say, it means Peek in
the Kitchen.) It was situated so that peek is exactly what guards could do. (Its now a small museum with
cannons.)
Tallinn is famous among Danes as the birthplace of their flag. According to legend, the Danes were losing a battle
here. Suddenly, a white cross fell from heaven and landed in a pool of blood. The Danes were inspired and went
on to win. To this day, their flag is a white cross on a red background.
Walk to the entrance of the onion-domed Russian Cathedral facing the pink palace.
[9] Russian Cathedral and Toompea Castle: The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built here in 1900 over
the supposed grave of a legendary Estonian heroKalevipoeg. While its a beautiful building, most Estonians

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dont like this church. Built to face the national parliament, it was a crass attempt to flex Russian cultural
muscles during a period of Estonian national revival. Step inside for a whiff of Russian Orthodoxy; about a third
of Tallinns population is ethnic Russian (church free and open daily 8:0019:00).
Cross the street to the pink palacean 18th-century addition that Russia built onto the Toompea Castle. Today,
its the Estonian Parliament building, flying the Estonian flagthe flag of both the first (19181940) and second
(1991present) Estonian republics. (Locals say they were always independent...just occupiedfirst by the
Soviets, then by the Nazis, and then again by the USSR.) Notice the Estonian seal: three lions for three great
battles in Estonian history, and oak leaves for strength and stubbornness. Ancient pagan Estonians, who believed
spirits lived in oak trees, would walk through forests of oak to toughen up. (To this day, Estonian cemeteries are
in forests. Keeping some of their pagan sensibilities, they believe the spirits of their departed loved ones live on in
the trees.)
Step left across the parking lot, around the palace, and into the park to see the...
[10] Tall Hermann Tower: This tallest tower of the castle wall is a powerful symbol here. For 50 years, while
Estonian flags were hidden in cellars, the Soviet flag flew from Tall Hermann. As the USSR was unraveling, the
Estonians proudly and defiantly replaced the red Soviet flag here with their own black, white, and blue flag.
Backtrack and go uphill, passing the Russian church on your right. Climb Toom-Kooli street to the...
[11] Dome Church (Toomkirik): Estonia is ostensibly Lutheran, but few Tallinners go to church. A recent
Gallup Poll showed Estonia to be the least religious country in the EUonly 14 percent of the respondents stated
that religion is an important part of their daily lives. Most churches double as concert venues or museums. Enter
the Dome Church (free, TueSun 9:0017:00, closed Mon, www.eelk.ee/tallinna.toom). Its a textbook example
of simple Northern European Gothic, built in the 13th century during Danish rule, then rebuilt after a 1684 fire.
Once the church of Tallinns wealthy, its littered with medieval coats of arms, each representing a rich merchant
family and carved by local mastersthe smaller the coat of arms, the older the family. The floor is paved with
tombstones.
Leaving the church, turn left. Pass the slanted tree and the big, green, former noblemens clubhouse on your
right (vacated when Germans returned home in the 1930s), and go down cobbled Rahukohtu lane. Local
businesses and embassies are moving their offices here and sprucing up the neighborhood. As you pass under
the yellow Patkuli Vaateplats arch, notice a ramshackle bit of the 1980s surviving. Just a few years ago, the
entire city looked like this. Belly up to the grand viewpoint.
[12] Patkuli Viewpoint: Survey the scene. On the far left, the Neoclassical facade of the executive branch of
Estonias government enjoys the view. Below you, a bit of the old moat remains. The Group sign marks Tallinns
tiny train station, and the clutter of stalls behind that is the rustic market. In the distance, ferries shuttle to and
from Helsinki (just 50 miles away). Beyond the lower towns medieval wall and towers stands the green spire of
St. Olavs Church, once 98 feet taller and, locals claim, the worlds tallest tower in 1492. Beyond that is the
985-foot-tall TV tower (much appreciated by Estonians for the heroics involved in keeping the peoples airwaves
open during the harrowing days when they won independence from the USSR). During Soviet domination,
Finnish TV was responsible for giving Estonians their only look at Western lifestyles. Imagine: In the 1980s,
many locals had never seen a banana or pineappleexcept on TV. People still talk of the day that Finland
broadcast the soft-porn movie Emmanuelle. An historic migration of Estonians flocked from the countryside to
Tallinn to get within rabbit-ears distance of Helsinki and see all that flesh on TV.
Go back through the arch, turn immediately left down the narrow lane, turn right, take the first left, and pass
through the trees to another viewpoint.
[13] Kohtuotsa Viewpoint: On the far left is the busy cruise port and the skinny white spire of the Church of
the Holy Ghost; the spire to its right is the 16th-century Town Hall spire. On the far right is the tower of St.
Nicholas Church. Visually trace Pikk street, Tallinns historic main drag, which winds through the Old Town,
leading from Toompea down the hill (below you from right to left), through the gate tower, past the Church of the
Holy Ghost (and Town Hall Square), and out to the harbor. The undesirable part of this city of 400,000 is the
clutter of Soviet-era apartment blocks in the distant horizon. The nearest skyscraper (white) is Hotel Viru, in
Soviet times the biggest hotel in the Baltics, and infamous as a clunky, dingy slumbermill. Locals joke that Hotel
Viru was built from a new Soviet wonder material called micro-concrete (60 percent concrete, 40 percent
microphones). To the left of Hotel Viru is the Rotermann Quarter, an industrial plant revamped into a new
commercial zone. Our walk will end there.
From the viewpoint, descend to the lower town. Go out and left down Kohtu, past the Finnish Embassy (on
your left). Back at the Dome Church, the slanted tree points the way, left down Piiskopi (Bishops Street). At

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the onion domes, turn left again and follow the old wall down Pikk jalg (Long Leg Street) into the lower town.
Wander back to Town Hall Square.
[14] Through Viru Gate, to Rotermann Quarter and End of Walk: Cross through the square (left of the
Town Halls tower) and go downhill (passing the kitschy medieval Olde Hansa Restaurant, with its bonneted
waitresses and merry men). Continue straight down Viru street toward Hotel Viru, the blocky white skyscraper in
the distance. Viru street is old Tallinns busiest and kitschiest shopping street. Just past the strange and modern
wood/glass/stone mall, Mrivahe street leads left along the old wall, called the Sweater Wall. This is a colorful
and tempting gauntlet of women selling handmade knitwear (although anything with images and bright colors is
likely machine-made). Beyond the sweaters, Katariina Kik, a lane with top-notch local artisan shops, leads left.
Back on Viru street, the golden arches lead to the medieval archesViru Gatethat mark the end of old Tallinn.
Outside the gates (at Viru 23), an arch leads into the Bastion Gardens, a tangle of antique, quilt, and sweater
shops that delight shoppers, and the fine Apollo bookstore (with Internet access and a fine little caf upstairs).
Opposite Viru 23, above the flower stalls, is a small park on a piece of old bastion known as the Kissing Hill
(come up here after dark and youll find out why).
Just beyond is Hotel Viru, the Viru Keskus shopping center (with a branch tourist information office, Internet
caf, supermarket in the basement, and laundry service), and the real world. For a look at todays Tallinn, browse
through the Rotermann Quarter. Sprawling between Hotel Viru and the port, this 19th-century industrial zone is
now a much-hyped commercial district with office parks, fancy condos, department stores, and restaurants.
For all the details on Tallin, please see Rick Steves' Scandinavia.
Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public
television and public radio. E-mail him at rick@ricksteves.com, or write to him c/o P.O. Box 2009, Edmonds,
WA 98020.
2010 Rick Steves

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Comments (3)
We took this walking tour at a leasurely pace, and made it back to the ship with time to spare.
Grab a map of Tallinn as you leave the ship, and the walking tour is very easy to follow. It takes
you through the old part of Tallinn which is charming. It was our favorite city. The people were very
friendly and it had some unique gifts to take home at the most reasonable prices.
Posted by marsha on February 9,2011 | 08:11 PM

I went to Tallinn in 2001, and it was a wonderful trip. Despite not knowing the Estonian language, I
was relieved to find that nearly every citizen, incluing children, are fluent in English. In Tallinn
airport, the signs are bi-lingual (Estonian/English). I had no problems whatsoever, and it was my
first trip off the American continent!
Posted by Les on October 28,2010 | 06:53 PM

hi
how many hours will this walking tour take? our cruise is arriving tallinn on july 7 from 7am to
1pm, will we have enough time to do the walking tour?
appreciate your reply and tips
thank you
stella
Posted by Stella Sia on June 20,2010 | 06:52 AM

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