USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

APPLICATION REPORT

Different applications of
hairiness length classification

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

S. Dnmez Kretzschmar, T. Nasiou

September 2011
SE 663

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Editorial Team:
Ellen Liu
R. Nellaiappan
Gabriela Peters
Dr. Serap Dnmez Kretzschmar
Thomas Nasiou

Copyright 2011 by Uster Technologies AG. All rights reserved.

All and any information contained in this document is non-binding. The supplier reserves the right to modify the
products at any time. Any liability of the supplier for damages resulting from possible discrepancies between this
document and the characteristics of the products is explicitly excluded.
veronesi\TT\Schulung_Dokumente\Off-Line\Zweigle\SE-663_Different applications of hairiness length classification

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Contents
1

Introduction ........................................................................................................................4

Influence on hairiness........................................................................................................ 5

Trials ...................................................................................................................................6

3.1

Trial methodology .................................................................................................................6

3.2

The impact of yarn count (Chinese spinning mill) ................................................................. 7

3.3

The impact of twist (German spinning mill) ........................................................................... 8

3.4

The impact of traveller weight (Indian and Chinese spinning mills) ....................................... 9

3.5

Compact spinning: The impact of off-centered roving guide (Indian spinning mill) .............. 11

3.6

Compact spinning: The impact of clogged compacting elements and compacting zone
(Chinese and Indian spinning mills) .................................................................................... 12

3.7

Compact spinning: The impact of suction under-pressure (Indian and German spinning mill)14

Conclusion ........................................................................................................................ 15

Literature........................................................................................................................... 15

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Introduction

The two hairiness systems USTER and Zweigle have been on the market for more than 20 years.
Both are well established systems and both are now available from Uster Technologies.
The systems provide complementary data and both are needed in any spinning mill interested in optimizing quality, reducing costs and increasing efficiency. The USTER principle is ideally suited as
industry benchmarks, the USTER STATISTICS. The Zweigle principle provides further valuable data
in the laboratory which, along with the USTER laboratory data, allows for a complete analysis and
optimization of efficiency in a spinning mill. The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER
5 with OH module provide the comprehensive and perfectly-integrated solution for all hairiness testing
requirements.
Table 1 shows a comparison of both measuring methods.

Comparison of two measuring systems

Measuring Principle

Measuring Principle

USTER TESTER 5

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

The protruding fibers produce a scattered light in the measuring

zone.

The system is based on counting the individual fibers and their

The yarn body is not transparent and appears as a black line on

the receiver side
The length of the measuring zone is 10 mm
The hairiness H is equal to the total length of the protruding
fibers in the measuring zone of 10 mm

respective lengths which protrude from the yarn body

The length classes are 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 10 mm (number
of protruding fibers per 100 m)
The most popular value is S3, which is the sum of all fibers
3 mm and longer per 100 m.
The HL400 automatically identifies the yarn body and calibrates itself before each measurement
The HL400 uses the same measuring principle of the Zweigle G567 and the USTER ZWEIGLE HAIRINESS TESTER
5

Application range and benefits of Sensor OH (integrated in the UT5)

Application range and benefits of Hairiness

length classification HL400

Comparison with benchmarks including USTER STATISTICS

Yarn engineering

Yarn profiling and yarn trading

Control of new spinning machine settings

Identifies periodical faults

Continuously monitors mill hairiness levels

Overall maintenance of spinning machines, especially

compact spinning systems

Early warning system in production

Identifies long protruding fibers which cause pilling

Indicator of hand/feel of a finished product

Allows weavers and knitters to get an idea how yarn will

perform in production along with its effects on consumable
parts
Monitoring of the life cycle of ring travelers

Table 1 Comparison of two measuring systems

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Influence on hairiness

The hairiness length classification gives valuable information, especially in regard to the overall performance level of the compacting system, as well as the hairiness variation from spindle to spindle or
from spinning position to spinning position (OE rotor and airjet spinning). For example, excessive fly in
the spinning department could lead to clogged filters, which results a compacting system with lower
compacting efficiency. When this happens to a section of the spinning machine, especially the value
for the longer fibers, i.e. the S3 value, will be affected. The number of longer fibers will increase accordingly. The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 is a vital instrument for monitoring and controlling the overall performance level of the compacting system at the ring spinning frame.
In Table 2, the origin of faults in various yarn production stages related to excessive hairiness and
hairiness variations is given.
EXCESSIVE HAIRINESS
Origin of Faults

Possible Reasons

Raw material

Fiber length
Length uniformity
Excessive short fiber content

Spinning preparation, spinning and winding

Roving twist
Age and type of rings & ring travelers (ring spinning)
Damaged or worn travelers
Improper traveler weights
Traveler changes
Condition of rings
Eccentricity of spindles & rings
Spinning tension (ring spinning)
Yarn twist
Slipping spindle belts
Damaged pigtail guides
Improperly centered pigtail guides
Full bobbin diameter
Yarn twist
Separator slap
Improperly positioned or missing anti-balloon rings
Spindle speed
Spindle speed curve
Damaged cots
Variation of spinning climate

Table 2

The origin of faults related to excessive hairiness and hairiness variations

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

The new hairiness length classification system, the USTER ZWEIGLE HL400, offered by Uster
Technologies, is the result of the outstanding improvements in yarn testing. The most striking features
of the new USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 are its speed and the guaranteed USTER accuracy.
This application report aims to explain the hairiness length classification system and its application in
order to be able to fully understand this method and use it at its full extent.

Trials

3.1

Trial methodology

As it is mentioned previously, the hairiness length classification gives valuable information about the
overall performance level of the compacting system, as well as the impact of various spinning machine elements on the hairiness variation. In order to demonstrate these relationships, 34 different,
100% cotton, combed, compact yarns of various yarn counts, in forms of bobbins were specially produced at different spinning mills in China, India and Germany.
All the samples were tested with the USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 with OH
module at the Uster Technologies Textile Laboratory and the test results were evaluated and demonstrated with the help of tables and graphs. In all tables, 8 mm and 10 mm hairiness length classes are
omitted, because in most cases, there were only a few protruding fibers at these classes. Most of the
application samples show a comparison of a specially produced test yarn illustrating various faults
and a reference yarn.

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

3.2

The impact of yarn count (Chinese spinning mill)

Yarn count affects many physical yarn parameters as well as hairiness. As it is well-known, the hairiness of coarse yarns is higher than the hairiness of fine yarns, because the probability of protruding
fibers is higher with more fibers in the cross-section. In order to show the relationship between yarn
count and hairiness, three different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 32, Ne 50 and Ne 80 in forms of
bobbins were produced at a Chinese spinning mill. The test results (Table 3) and related figures (Fig.
1 and Fig. 2) are given below.

Chinese
spinning
mill

Yarn Count
(Ne)

Nominal
twist
[1/m]*

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

Fine yarn

80

1352

2375

286

33

Medium yarn

50

1103

3578

462

47

Coarse yarn

32

855

5726

825

91

S3

sh

40

2.03

0.46

11

59

2.30

0.53

25

118

2.95

0.67

Table 3
The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 hairiness results
*[ 1/m] = Turns per meter (TPM).

Fig. 1

The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 test results

(S3 values per 100m)

Fig. 2

The USTER TESTER 5 test results

(H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion:
The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 3) the hairiness of coarse yarns is higher than the
hairiness of fine yarns. In Fig. 1, Ne 32 has the highest and Ne 80 has the lowest number of protruding number of fibers. Hairiness results of the USTER TESTER 5 are also showing the same trend
(Fig. 2). This result will also show up if the twist is kept constant.

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

3.3

The impact of twist (German spinning mill)

The amount of twist placed in a staple spun yarn is important from
a technical viewpoint because of its effect on physical properties
and performance, and on finished product appearance. It has an
effect on fabric luster, hand, weight and strength. It is also important from a production standpoint because with every turn of
twist there is an accompanying reduction in productivity and an
increase in cost. The reduction of twist increases the hairiness
because the number of protruding fibers increases. At the same
time the yarn hairiness can be reduced to a certain extent by increasing the twist.

Fig. 3

Yarns with S-twist and Z-twist

However, there are limitations or specific requirements concerning the twist or the twist multiplier in
regard of the end-use of a fabric.
In order to show the relationship between twist and hairiness, three different yarns, Ne 24, 100% cotton, combed, in forms of bobbins were produced and tested. The test results (Table 4) and related
figures (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5) are given below:

Twist
values

Yarn Count
(Ne)

Twist
[1/m]*

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

Low

24

Medium
High

727

10859

1727

213

60

24

822

9711

1452

165

24

917

9323

1348

138

S3

sh

277

4.97

1.20

43

211

4.67

1.10

41

181

4.53

1.06

Table 4
The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 hairiness results
*[ 1/m] = Turns per meter (TPM).

Fig. 4

The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 test results

(S3 values)

Fig. 5

The USTER TESTER 5 test results

(H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion:
The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 4) the increase of twist decreases the hairiness because the number of protruding fibers decreases. In Fig. 4, the yarn with the lowest twist value (727
[1/m]) has the highest and the yarn with the highest twist value (917 [1/m]) has the lowest number of
protruding fibers (Fig. 4). Hairiness results of the USTER TESTER 5 are also showing the same
trend (Fig. 5), low twist yarn has a hairiness value of 4.97 and high twist yarn has a hairiness value of
4.53.

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

3.4

The impact of traveller weight (Indian and Chinese spinning mills)

In recent years, several investigations have been carried out on the impact of the ring traveller and specifically its weight on various yarn parameters. In many
studies, was observed that yarn hairiness generally decreased as the traveller weight was increased, regardless of the traveler profile or the travelers finishing.
To demonstrate the relationship between traveler
weight and hairiness, two different, 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 40 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were
produced at an Indian and a Chinese spinning mill. The
test results (Table 5) and related figures (Fig. 7 and Fig.
8) are given below.

Fig. 6

Chinese
spinning
mill

Indian
spinning
mill

Table 5

The impact of traveller weight [1]

Machine
B

Machine
B

Yarn
Count
(Ne)

Nomial
twist
[1/m]

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

Heavier
traveller
(3/0)

40

850

5977

935

118

33

Reference
traveller
(4/0)

40

850

6287

978

128

Lighter
traveller
(6/0)

40

850

6926

1228

Heavier
traveller
(18/0)

100

1600

3890

Reference
traveller
(20/0)

100

1600

Lighter
traveller
(22/0)

100

1600

S3

sh

153

2.97

0.68

36

167

2.90

0.68

193

55

253

3.07

0.71

502

70

16

86

2.18

0.55

4139

532

59

14

74

2.16

0.55

4062

569

59

16

76

2.15

0.54

The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 hairiness results

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Fig. 7

The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

(Percentage values of S3 results)

Fig. 8

The USTER TESTER 5

(Percentage values of H results)

Conclusion:
The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 5) the increase of traveller weight decreases the hairiness because the number of protruding fibers decreases. With Nec100 and because of the reduced
number of fibers in the yarn cross-section, the hairiness difference is not significant anymore, moreover because the yarns are compact. In Fig. 7, in both yarn counts, the samples produced with a lighter
traveller have the highest hairiness. As an example, regarding that the S3 value of Ne 40 yarn produced with reference traveller (4/0) is equal to 100%, the sample yarn produced with a lighter traveller
(6/0) will be 151% (Fig. 7, blue color). This is also valid for the USTER TESTER 5 results (Fig. 8).

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

3.5

Compact spinning: The impact of off-centered roving guide (Indian spinning

mill)
Fig. 9 demonstrates an off-centered roving guide. This fault
affects yarn spinning triangle and accordingly compact
spinning process in a negative way.
In order to show the impact of off-centered roving guide on
the yarn hairiness, two different 100% cotton, compact
yarns, Ne 80 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were produced at an Indian spinning mill. For every yarn count, a
reference yarn is compared with a test compact yarn which
illustrates off-centered roving guide fault. The test results
(Table 6) and related figures (Fig. 10 and Fig. 11) are given
below.

Fig. 9

Indian
spinning
mill

Impact of off-centered roving guide

Machine
A

Machine
B

Yarn Count
(Ne)

Nomial
twist
[1/m]

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

Reference
yarn

80

1350

6455

750

79

18

Test yarn

80

1350

7588

990

132

Reference
yarn

100

1600

3664

468

Test yarn

100

1600

4554

703

S3

sh

98

2.60

0.63

28

162

2.88

0.71

55

13

69

2.06

0.51

82

23

108

2.24

0.57

Table 6 The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 hairiness results

Fig. 10

S3 difference (%) between the test yarn

and the reference yarn

Fig. 11

H and sh differences (%) between the

test yarn and the reference yarn

Conclusion:
Test results (Table 6) show that the test yarns which were produced with off-centered guide have
more number of protruding fibers nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length
class. For example, the reference yarn has only 98 protruding fibers, whereas the test yarn produced
at the machine type A has 162 protruding fibers at S3 length class (Table 6, Machine A), which shows
an increase of 65% (Table 7, Fig. 10, Machine A). The same trend can be also observed in USTER
TESTER 5 results, for the same test yarn, the hairiness (H) difference is 11% and (sh) difference is
+13% (Table 6, Fig. 11, Machine A).

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

3.6

Compact spinning: The impact of clogged compacting elements and compacting zone (Chinese and Indian spinning mills)
During compact yarn production, the air suction area
(Fig. 12) in the compacting zone can become clogged
for a variety of reasons. This affects the spinning process in a negative way.
To demonstrate the impact of clogged compacting zone
and clogged compacting elements, four different 100%
cotton, compact yarns, Ne 40, Ne 40, Ne 80 and Ne
100, in forms of bobbins were produced at a Chinese
and an Indian spinning mill. For every yarn count, a reference yarn is compared with a test compact yarn
which illustrates a clogged compacting zone or a compacting element. The test results (Table 7 and related
figures (Fig. 13 and Fig. 14) are given below.

Fig. 12

Impact of clogged compacting zone

Clogged
compacting
element

Chinese
spinning
mill

Machine
B

Clogged
compacting
zone

Chinese
spinning
mill

Machine
B

Indian
spinning
mill

Machine
A

Machine
B

Table 7

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Yarn
Count
(Ne)

Nominal
twist
[1/m]

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

S3

sh

Reference
yarn

40

850

6287

978

128

36

167

2.90

0.68

Test yarn

40

850

7663

1384

185

61

252

3.34

0.74

Reference
yarn

40

850

6287

978

128

36

167

2.90

0.68

Test yarn

40

850

9331

1901

317

108

11

437

3.77

0.83

Reference
yarn

80

1338

4994

455

42

50

2.46

0.60

Test yarn

80

1338

8462

1532

263

75

345

3.30

0.93

Reference
yarn

100

1600

3846

532

53

15

68

2.07

0.52

Test yarn

100

1600

6555

1162

132

51

188

2.41

0.58

The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 hairiness results

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Fig. 13

S3 difference (%) between the test yarn

and the reference yarn

Fig. 14

H (red) differences (%) between the test

yarn and the reference yarn

Conclusion:
Test results (Table 7) show that the compact yarn produced with a clogged compact zone has more
number of protruding fibers nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length class.
For example, the reference yarn Ne 80 has only 50 protruding fibers, whereas the test yarn produced
at the machine type A has 345 protruding fibers at S3 length class (Table 7, Machine A, Indian spinning mill), which shows an increase of 590% (Table 7, Fig. 13, Ne 80, Machine A, Indian spinning
mill). The same trend can be also observed in the USTER TESTER 5 results, for the same test yarn,
the hairiness (H) difference is +34% and (sh) difference is +55% (Fig. 14, Ne 80, Machine A, Indian
spinning mill). As we have mentioned previously, both systems provide complementary data. This is a
perfect example for this. In addition to numerical values, the spectrogram of the USTER TESTER 5
shows a more intensive influence on the hairiness periodicity at 5 to 7 m depending on the ring spinning machine type. This periodicity is caused by the ring rail movement (Fig. 15 and Fig. 16).

Fig. 15

Reference yarn (Ne 80, Indian spinning

mill, Machine A)

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400

Fig. 16

Impact of clogged compacting zone:

Test yarn (Ne 80, Indian spinning mill,
Machine A)

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

3.7

Compact spinning: The impact of suction under-pressure (Indian and German

spinning mill)

In aerodynamic compacting systems, the compacting process of the fiber strand takes place with help
of the perforated drums or aprons. Perforated drums or aprons generate airflow from outside into the
interior of the drum. The air current generated by the vacuum in the perforated drum enables the fibers to be compacted efficiently following the main draft. For this reason, the amount of suction pressure is very important for the compacting process. A decrease in the suction pressure can affect hairiness properties of the yarn [2]. In order to demonstrate the impact of air suction on the yarn hairiness,
three different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 20, Ne 80 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were produced. The test results are given below (Table 8, Fig. 17 and Fig. 18).

German
spinning
mill

Machine
C
Machine
A

Indian
spinning
mill

Table 8

Fig. 17

Machine
B

Yarn
Count
(Ne)

Nomial
twist
[1/m]

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

-5 mb suction

20

728

14411

2388

357

101

- 25 mb suction

20

728

16040

2720

469

Reference
suction

80

1338

5128

638

Low suction

80

1338

5390

Normal suction

100

1600

Lower suction
motor power

100

1600

S3

Sh

467

5.00

1.18

146

13

629

5.40

1.28

92

20

113

2.33

0.58

977

150

51

206

2.82

0.81

4536

600

84

21

106

2.25

0.58

5577

821

121

29

151

2.21

0.58

The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 hairiness results

The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 test results

(S3 values)

Fig. 18

The USTER TESTER 5 test results

(H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion:
In this trial, Ne 20, Ne 80 and Ne 100, 100% compact yarns were produced and a reference compact
yarn is compared to a test compact yarn which is produced with less suction. Test results (Table 8)
show that the yarn produced with is produced with less suction has more number of protruding fibers
nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length class (Fig. 17 and Fig. 18). The
same trend can be seen at the USTER TESTER for the hairiness value.
As a result of a reduced number of fibers in the yarn cross-section of the fine yarn Ne 100 with mostly
different raw material the hairiness difference is not significant anymore.

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Conclusion

A precise analysis of yarn hairiness is vital for many textile applications, as hairiness has a significant
influence on both the appearance and durability of fabrics, as well as an impact on the productivity
and efficiency of subsequent processing stages. It is a fact that 15% of unacceptable fabric defects,
for example pilling, are caused by hairiness variations. The two hairiness systems described in this
paper have been on the market for more than 20 years. Both are well established systems and both
are now available from Uster Technologies. The measurement of USTER and Zweigle hairiness systems allow yarn producers to be in full control of the yarn quality.
The new hairiness length classification system, the USTER ZWEIGLE HL400, offered by Uster
Technologies, is the result of the outstanding improvements in yarn testing. The system offers the S3
value, the numbers of protruding fibers at 3 mm and longer, which is the main quality benchmark for
compact-spun yarn. The most striking feature of the new USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 is its speed. The
system operates at 400 m/min, compared to the 50 m/min throughput of the previous Zweigle system.
The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 has a fix testing speed of 400 m/min which is 8 times faster than the
previous standard of 50 m/min. The customer benefit is faster reaction to test results, because tests of
10 cones need less than 15 min instead of 60 min with the current generation. The USTER
ZWEIGLE HL400 fits therefore well in the testing cycle of an USTER TESTER and USTER
TENSORAPID or USTER TENSOJET.
The USTER principle is ideally suited as industry benchmarks, the USTER STATISTICS. The
Zweigle principle provides further valuable data in the laboratory which, along with the USTER laboratory data, allows for a complete analysis and optimization of efficiency in a spinning mill.
The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER TESTER 5 with OH module provide the comprehensive and perfectly-integrated solution for all hairiness testing requirements and both are needed in any
spinning mill interested in optimizing quality, reducing costs and increasing efficiency.

Literature

1. Lawrence, C.,A. (Editor), Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology, Woodhead Publishing Limited,2010.
2. Singh R.P., V K Kothari, Different technologies to spin compact yarns, The Indian Textile Journal, August 2007.
3. Lawrence, C.,A., Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology, CRC Press LLC, 2003.
4. Lord, P. R., Handbook of Yarn Production: Technology, Science and Economics, Woodhead
Publishing Limited, 2005.
5. USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 Application Handbook: Hairiness length classification, V1.1, 47010440020, June 2011.
6. USTER ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER 5 Application Handbook: Twist measurement, V1.0, 621
106-04020, September 2009

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Uster Technologies AG
Sonnenbergstrasse 10
CH-8610 Uster / Switzerland
Phone +41 43 366 36 36
Fax
+41 43 366 36 37
www.uster.com
sales@uster.com

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