2 0 1 0 T H
theNEEDLE
CHARLENE PHILLIPS
130/705 H
130/705 H needles are the
same as 15x1 h needles
(Japanese) and the 2020
(Singer). All needles in this
system have a flattened shank
for perfect positioning in the
sewing machine. Household
sewing machines require a
needle with a flattened shank.
Reading a Needle
Packet
Too many numbers on the
packet? What do they really
mean? Follow the example.
E S E W B O X
information
W W W. T H E S E W B O X . C O M
z
The Perfect Needle z
Just as important as a working sewing machine, using the correct
needle is crucial. The love and time you put into your sewing
creations deserve the best. Always choose your needles to match
your sewing project.
Needles you may Jersey Needle - artificial fur,
not have used boucle, knit cotton, gauze,
jersey, knits with elastic, lingerie,
Microtex Needle - artificial lycra, sweatshirt, tulle
leather, brocade, chiffon, coated
fabrics, crepe, crinkle, foils,
lame, microfiber, nylon, oil
cloth, polyester, poplin,silk,
taffeta, waxed cloth
Stretch Needle - bed linen
jersey, knit cotton, elastic, fleece,
jersey with elastic, lycra, silk
jersey, velour jersey, velvet,
lingerie
Needle type - Leather blade in hundredths of a millimetre
measured above the scarf (short
Needle system - 130/705 HL
(H=Hohlkehle in German, means
groove). Needle with a blade
diameter of .90 mm corresponds to
“with scarf”, L is for leather) NM 80.
Needle size - 90/14 (90=number 90/14 - 90 is European, 14 is
metric is the diameter of the needle American
Universal Needle - general sewing, woven & knit
fabrics - 8/60, 9/65, 10/70, 11/75, 12/80, 14/90,
16/100, 18/110 through 19/120.
Microtex Needle - straight stitching on delicate &
microfiber fabrics, sharp point - 8/60, 9/65, 10/70,
11/75, 12/80, 14/90
Jersey Needle - knits & stretch fabrics - 10/70,
12/80, 14/90, 16/100
Leather Needle - leather, artificial leather, heavy
non-woven fabrics. -
10/70, 12/80, 14/90, 16/100, 18/110, 19/120
Denim/jeans Needle -denim, densely woven
fabrics, when need a very straight stitch on layered
fabrics - very sharp point - 10/70, 11/75, 12/80,
14/90, 16/100, 18/110
Stretch Needle - synthetic suede & elastic knitwear,
deep scarf to prevent skipped stitches - 11/75, 14/90
Topstitch Needle - extra sharp, enlarged groove
for larger diameter threads - 12/80, 14/90, 16/100

SCHMETZ
DOUBLE EYE METALLIC
NEEDLE NEEDLE
The metallic needle is
TWIN AND designed with an enlarged
SYSTEM 705 DE
TRIPLE NEEDLE eye that will accommodate
specialty threads without QUILTING
The needle has two eyes. shredding. They are NEEDLE
Using two thread colors available in 12/80 and The quilting needle has a
results in beautiful 14/90. taper to the shaft and a
decorative stitches. very sharp point. This

Use two spools of

WING design prevents damage to

different colored threads,

Choose according to the
(HEMSTITCH) layered fabrics. They are
fabric and thread type. available in sizes 11/75,
and having each unwind
They are usually available NEEDLE 12/80, and 14/90.
in the opposite direction. Designed with a wing
in universal, stretch, jeans,
This prevents tangling.
metallic, embroidery.
(flange) on each side of the
SPRING NEEDLE
needle. Use for light and Use for free hand quilting
Range from 1.6 to 4.0 as
medium weight fabric. & embroidery. Insert the
distance between needles.
Check your manual for Perfect for heirloom
Perfect for pintucks, needle, remove your
threading, similar to the sewing, cutwork, or
twin needle. Thread paths topstitching, and decorative presser foot. Universal.
creating the holes for edged Sizes 10/70, 12/80, 14/90.
are followed as with stitching.
normal threading until crochet. Also comes as a
you come to the needle double
eye.
 Just some fun & interesting facts...
The oldest needles had a split end which gripped the fabric. The next needles began to have the same
characteristics of modern needles - an eye at one end and a tapered point at the other.

The invention of the sewing machine led to the creation of the sewing machine needle. Around 1800, B
Krems, Mayen, Germany, used a needle with had the eye close to the point. Additional improvements
led to our needle of today.

There were many size designations for the early needles. In 1953, the metric size was designated. The
abbreviation NM was introduced. NM stands for “number metric”.

The NM is the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimetre measured above the short
groove (scarf). A needle with a blade diameter of 0.90 mm corresponds to NM 90.

Household machines use the needle system of 130/705 H.

The ‘H’ stands for Hohlkehle, which is German for “with scarf ”.

The European metric sizing system numbers from 60 to 110. The American sizing system is numbered
from 8 to 18. Looking at a packet of 14/90 - the 14 is American sizing and the 90 is European. The
14/90 is suitable for medium-weight fabrics, such as flannel, satin, terry, velvet, broadcloth, brocade,
chintz, linen, and others.

Remember, the lighter the fabric the smaller the needle size and the heavier the fabric, the larger the
needle size. Thread sizing must be matched to your needle, as the smaller the size of needle - the smaller
the eye hole.

THE SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE IS THE LEAST EXPENSIVE PART OF YOUR SEWING
NOTIONS. CHANGE THE NEEDLE AT THE BEGINNING OF EVERY SEWING PROJECT.
Happy Sewing!
Charlene