CAREER AS A

FASHION DESIGNER

Institute Research Number 99

ISBN 1-58511-099-X
DOT Number 142.061-018
O*Net SOC Code 27-1022.00

CAREER AS A

FASHION DESIGNER
Tommy Hilfiger
Norma Kamali
Ralph Lauren
Donna Karan
Mark Jacobs
Betsey Johnson
THESE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE FASHION DESIGNERS BEHIND EACH SEASONS

hottest looks. Their names are stamped on our clothes, inside and out.
Their logos are splashed across scarves, sweatshirts, and handbags.
Their names carry so much weight, they design everything from socks
to bed linens to car interiors.

These famous fashion designers and many more not-so-famous

designers influence everything we wear from underwear to overcoats.
We see their creations in fashion magazines, in the movies and on
television, in department store windows, in catalogs, on mannequins
in fancy shops, and on the racks in lowly discount stores.
Most people associate fashion designers with the kind of high
fashion seen only on the runway. But fashion designers range from the
handful of haute couture designers who create exclusive designs for
high fashion salons (where most of us cant afford to shop) to those
who work in the garment industry creating clothing for the mass
market that will be worn by millions of Americans. The fact is that
every piece of clothing we wear steel-toed work boots, flannel
bathrobe, plain white boxer shorts, or sparkly evening gown has to
be designed by someone. That someone, famous or not, is a fashion
designer.
Fashion designers create the fashions for men, women, and
children to wear morning and night, at work and at play. Most
specialize in one particular type of clothing, such as bridal gowns,
swimwear, lingerie, infants clothing, uniforms, or mens suits. They
work for fashion salons, textile manufacturers, big chain department
stores, and pattern manufacturers. Some prefer to freelance and build
their own clientele of individual customers, specialty shops, and
manufacturers.
A fashion designer stays on top of current fashion trends the same
way we all do by reading magazines, checking out what the actors
are wearing on television, and window-shopping. Only the top
designers get to be fashion leaders and create completely original
designs. Most designers adapt existing designs according to
well-established guidelines and trends.
Anyone interested in this career should be able to draw, have a
good eye for color and form, be able to sew, and have an obsession
for fashion. It is possible to enter the field with just a high school
diploma, but it is not recommended. Fashion design is considered by
many to be a glamorous career and it attracts many talented people.
The competition is stiff for beginners. You should have at least a
two-year degree in fashion design and a good portfolio packed with
examples your great ideas.

A career in fashion design has a lot going for it. It is exciting,

creative, and challenging. The educational requirements are minimal
and the earnings are good, and for some very successful designers,
extraordinary. The job market is small, but growing steadily. There are
opportunities for international travel. And if you have the talent, there
is always a chance for fame and fortune.

WHAT YOU CAN DO NOW

HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS INTERESTED IN FASHION DESIGN SHOULD TAKE AS MANY

art classes as possible. Being able to sketch is essential, but dont limit
yourself to drawing class. A course in art history might seem irrelevant
now, but what you learn there will be very useful in your career.
Naturally, any fashion or design courses are a must. Even if you already
know how to sew, take any available sewing classes. Other helpful
courses include math, business, speech, English, and foreign language
especially French or Spanish.
Read. Follow the trends by reading all the fashion magazines you
can get your hands on. Subscribe to the bible of the fashion industry,
Womens Wear Daily. Professional fashion designers (and everyone else
in the fashion industry) read it religiously to stay in the know about
whats going on in the industry and to keep up with every-changing
trends.
Experiment Even if you arent sure what youre doing, try your hand
at designing and making some clothes. Pick up some cheap clothing at
the nearest thrift shop or yard sales. Take them apart and redesign
them into new shapes with different trims. It is a great way to exercise
your creativity. Plus, you will learn a lot about how clothes are
constructed.
Explore Visit art galleries, attend fashion shows, pay attention to
what trend setters are wearing on TV, and make regular trips to the
mall to check out whats new. If there is a garment factory in your city,
ask your school guidance counselor to help you arrange for a tour so
you can see the pros at work.
Work A job in the summer or after school in a clothing store will give
you an education in fashion merchandising. A job in a fabric store
would provide an excellent opportunity to learn about textiles,
notions, trims, and patterns.

HISTORY OF THE PROFESSION

PEO PLE HAVE BEEN WEAR ING CLOTHING SINCE THE BEGINNING OF TIME, BUT AT

first putting on clothing was solely a practical matter. Today, animal

prints are the rage and no wardrobe would be complete without a
leopard print dress or faux fur jacket. But cave men and women had
no idea how stylish they were when they wrapped themselves in real
animal pelts they just wanted to stay warm. Clothing remained
primarily utilitarian for thousands of years, with most garments being
handmade at home.
Perhaps the first fashion maven in history was Cleopatra, but it
was her makeup and accessories that made a statement, not the
shapeless fabric draped like curtains. Nonetheless, the Queen of the
Nile set a historical precedent political figures, royalty, and other
cultural icons have since influenced what we wear, setting fashion
trends throughout the centuries.
Fashion design as a profession started in the 1600s and it began
right where todays fashion center of the world is in France. Around
the middle of the century, it was the famous French King Louis XIV
who said that fashion is a mirror. Louis was renowned for his style,
which included heavy use of extravagant laces and velvets. It was an
indulgence only the exceedingly rich could afford. For a while at least,
fashion seemed destined to be reserved for the aristocracy and
privileged classes. But by the 1700s, fashion magazines were
publishing the latest styles so even common folks could see what was
going in inside the French Court though they could only dream of
wearing such finery.
The first celebrated fashion designer was also French. She was
Rose Bertin, a French milliner who dressed Marie Antoinette in the late
18th century. Womens fashions during the French Revolution were
heavily influenced by Bertins designs. Wealthy women and
professional dressmakers paid big bucks to anyone who could provide
sketches of the royal wardrobes before the popular press got them.
Soon after the turn of the century, fashion design came to be
defined by eras. The Georgian Era, named after George III, lasted from
1800 to 1820. Fashions from this era were known as Regency Fashion.
It was based on classical principles; only the ornamentation changed.
Greek inspired borders evolved to more exotic Egyptian, Spanish, and
oriental decor inspired by Napoleons expeditions. Near the end of the
Georgian Era, Gothic influences dissolved the classical lines, making
way for the Romantic Era. The romantic spirit lingered until 1850.
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All garments were made by hand until 1846 when Elias invented
the sewing machine. Soon, fashion houses were setting up factories
where fashionable clothing could be produced quickly and in large
quantities. For the first time, even ordinary people could afford to be
fashionable.
Up until this time, fashion designers were almost all women. But
in 1858, an English tailor named Charles Frederick Worth opened a
fashion house in Paris. He had impeccable references, having been the
couturier for Empress Eugenie (consort of Napoleon III). In his Paris
salon, Worth created designs for actresses and other wealthy celebrity
clients who could afford to have clothing designed specifically for
them. Worth is considered the first modern couturier for several
reasons. He was the first designer to select his own fabrics rather than
using fabrics provided by clients. He was also the first to display his
designs on live models.
The Victorian Era of the 1800s lasted for 64 years. Throughout this
period, fashions evolved from bustles to Gibson Girls to tailor made
suits. The Victorian Era and the 19th century ended with a bang in a
period known as the Naughty Nineties.
Next came Art Nouveau with its graceful linear curves in dress,
decorative arts and design. This was the first style to dominate the
world of design in all forms including fashion, furniture, fine art,
jewelry, architecture, and home dcor accessories. Such major design
styles that set the tone for fashionable living are rare. Art Deco of the
1930s and Space Age (also known as Atomic) of the 1950s were the
only two to come close to having the all-encompassing influence of
Art Nouveau. Ert, considered the father of Art Deco, was not a
fashion designer and yet he influenced nearly all fashion designers
between 1915 and 1936.
From 1939 to 1945, fashion was affected most by the World War.
Clothing in Great Britain was actually rationed under the Civilian
Clothing Utility Scheme. Garments were austere and practical,
reflecting the military garments of wartime. When the war was over,
fashion bounced back with lavish use of fabrics in full-skirted dresses
and Hollywood glamour.
One of historys most celebrated fashion designers, Christian Dior
launched his new line in 1947. Life magazine dubbed it The New
Look. It was one of the longest lasting looks any designer has ever
produced, remaining fashionable for about 10 years.

The 1950s brought huge changes to all areas of life in America.

For the first time in history, fashion was specifically designed for young
men and women, coined teenagers. Rock and roll icons like Elvis
Presley and James Dean inspired teenage fashion. Jeans made their
debut as a fashion staple, and separates were popular for the first
time because they were comfortable for dancing to lively music.
Haute couture took a back seat to ready-to-wear from 1950
onward. French designers put up the most resistance to the idea of
fashion for the masses, but even there, prt--porter (ready to wear)
eventually outsold haute couture salons.
It wasnt long until fashion designers figured out that they could
reach a much larger market (and make a lot more money) by getting
into the retail market themselves. During the Swinging Sixties in
London, designer Mary Quant opened a string of individual retail
outlets on both sides of the pond. She appealed to the teenage
population by producing youthful clothes for the biggest market of all
time baby boomers.
Throughout the second half of the 20th century, fashion was
defined by decades. The 1960s were filled with Op Art and mini skirts.
The 1970s started with the peasant look popularized by hippies and
ended with the flashy nightclub looks of Disco Fever.
The 1980s had two main styles, The New Romantics and Power
Dressing. Diana the Princess of Wales was the fashion leader for the
New Romantics, moving the feminine look into mainstream fashion.
Meanwhile, yuppies everywhere followed the advice in John Molloys
Dress For Success. The book had women wearing suits with shoulder
pads and men wearing red suspenders and ties. The two looks were
represented by then UK Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher and
Princess Diana. While Diana was seen on magazine covers in flowing
chiffon, Thatcher was seen on daily TV in her structured power suits
that demanded respect for her authority.
The century ended with a glamour backlash. Grunge only lasted a
year deconstructionism had seams and zippers on the outside of
garments and minimalism reduced clothing to neutral tones in
sculptural shapes. Gone were the glitz and glamour of the 1980s. In
was the purism of neutral tints and shades of black, white, gray, and
beige with little or no jewelry. Designers like Donna Karan, Giorgio
Armani, and Calvin Klein produced modern classics within a
framework of pure function and natural simplicity.

Fashion trends have a way of returning. There is a saying that if

you keep something in your closet long enough, it will come back into
style. Some designers use styles of bygone eras to create entirely new
lines. For example, in the 1990s, fashion designers Ghost and Tom
Ford found success by brushing up old looks from the 1960s. They
added different trims and developed variations to popularize the
new BoHo style.
One thing is certain in fashion. It is always changing. New fashion
ideas come from music, television, and world events. A music video or
single hit movie can spawn a fashion rage. Ray-Ban sold millions of
sunglasses after the movie Men in Black. And parents shudder when
their young daughters dress for school looking like Brittany Spears.

WHERE YOU WILL WORK

NEW YORK CITY, SAN FRANCISCO, AND LOS ANGELES ARE THE MAJOR FASHION

centers in the US. These cities are home to large and small companies
that employ the majority of American fashion designers. You can find
some design jobs in Chicago, Dallas, and other big cities, but only in
very small numbers.
A few fashion designers are lucky enough to work in large fashion
houses such as Liz Claiborne or Calvin Klein. It is usually difficult to get
hired by one of the top fashion houses because there is so much
competition for a limited number of coveted positions. There are
however, some major designer labels that have developed a need for
more fashion designers because they now also make clothes for the
mass market. Donna Karan, for example, has a secondary line of lower
priced clothing that sells under the label DKNY. Giorgio Armani has an
equally successful secondary label for men called Emporio.
Most fashion designers do not work for famous design houses nor
do they work in high fashion. Most work for large garment
manufacturers that produce clothing for the mass market under
multiple labels. Many are inhouse designers for major retailers such as
K-Mart, Target, and JC Penney. Small specialty shops and boutiques
also have their own fashion designers on staff. They create designs for
off-the-rack garments as well as filling custom orders for customers
who are willing to pay for exclusive designs that no one else will be
able to buy.

Not all fashion designers work for apparel manufacturers. Fashion

designers work in a number of different industries designing textiles,
paper patterns for home sewing, shoes, and various accessories. A
small number work for entertainment production companies as
costume designers for television, movies, theater, and ballet. Fashion
designers have even more into the home furnishings field, which is
now commonly known as home fashions. They design items like bed
and bath linens, draperies, and rugs.
The work environment for designers varies depending on the
industry and size and type of employer. Some spend pleasant days
with one or two co-workers in quiet and spacious rooms with ample
natural light. Many more work in crowded workrooms filled with big
tables, noisy cutting and sewing machines, and minimal ventilation.
Fortunately, fashion designers do not spend all their time in their
workrooms. They are often seen out and about, getting ideas and
checking out the competition. They visit art museums, stores,
showrooms, conferences, and fashion shows. Many travel to other
cities or even other countries to show their new lines to buyers.
Many fashion designers work as freelancers. They work in their
own studios and also spend time meeting with buyers, sales reps,
production workers, and other designers.

THE WORK YOU WILL DO

FASHION DESIGNERS CREATE ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS AND ACCESSORIES. MOST

work in mens, womens, or childrens wear for their entire careers.

Many specialize in one type of clothing or accessory such as maternity
wear, suits, lingerie, handbags, or shoes.
There are a small number of high-fashion designers who cater
directly to individual clients. These are the designers you know by
name, the celebrity trendsetters for the industry. Everyone follows
their lead in terms of silhouette, colors, fabrics, and trims that will be
in style each season. Some of these self-employed designers head their
own fashion houses; others develop signature lines for specialty stores,
high-end boutiques, or upscale department stores. At this level, there
is glamour and excitement, but it is also extremely competitive. Top
designers possess a unique combination of originality, artistry,
technical expertise, networking skills, and business savvy.

The majority of fashion designers work for apparel manufacturers.

They generally follow the fashion trends set by the high profile
designers rather than create original styles of their own. They work
under the direction of their employers, adapting designs for the mass
market to meet the tastes and price requirements of customers.
A large garment factory will typically employ a staff of designers
including a head designer, several assistant designers, and one or more
sample makers. In some cases, designers are involved in every step of
the production. They come up with the ideas, choose the fabrics and
trims, do cost estimates and pricing of finished products, and work
cooperatively with those who actually make the garments.
The workroom is home base for fashion designers. But designers
also spend a great deal of time exploring and conducting research.
They visit textile companies to learn about new fabrics and trims. They
browse through retail stores, read fashion magazines, visit
showrooms, and attend fashion shows. The purpose is to not only see
what is available, but to get a feel for what customers are buying, or
rejecting. For inspiration, museums and art galleries are great sources
of ideas about color and composition. Fashion designers keep their
eyes open wherever they go, taking notice of what people are wearing
in the real world. Very often, designs are based on street trends.
Back in the workroom, everything begins with a sketch. Ideas for
original designs can come from just about anything cultural trends,
pop stars, exotic vacations, old movies, magazines, current events, and
new textiles. Sketches are sometimes done on a computer, but most
designers still prefer to create rough sketches with pencil and paper.
Working either alone or with a design team, the idea is fleshed
out. The designer combines basic dressmaking and tailoring principles
with flat pattern work and draping techniques to develop the design.
The final design is given to a pattern maker to create samples.
Pattern pieces are drawn on paper, then cut out of muslin. The muslin
pieces are sewn together by a seamstress into a rough mock-up that is
fitted on a real-life model. The designer examines the sample garment
both on and off the model. If the sample doesnt look right, it is
changed until the design achieves the desired effect. Once the design
itself is acceptable, the pattern pieces are modified, features are
added, and a rough mock-up of the completed design is made. The
design team then chooses materials and writes specifications for the
production workers that might include the color schemes or specific
instructions for construction.
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Next, a fit technician makes the final prototype and the pattern
maker creates the patterns that will be used for mass production. The
designs are now officially part of the companys line. The sample
maker creates pieces for sales reps to present to wholesale buyers.
High-end designs are displayed at showings for buyers and the press,
supervised by the designer. Major designers present their lines at
fashion shows twice a year. The majority of clothing is sold in the
showrooms with no live models, only racks and maybe a few
mannequins.
The entire process, from idea to production of completed
products, happens quickly. As a rule, there are very tight deadlines to
meet for delivery to stores.
This all happens four times each year. The fashion seasons are
spring/summer, fall/winter, cruise (for those lucky people who head for
tropical beaches in January), and holiday (fashions for special
occasions during November and December). For each season, a
designer creates a line with 50 to 150 styles. The lines are started
about six months prior to the clothes appearing in stores and stores
start stocking new fashions up to three months before a calendar
season actually begins. That means the designer could be working on
new styles that wont be worn for nearly a year. This can be a little
tricky since the publics taste can change at any time. Designers have
to stay abreast of trends, but not too far ahead. If styles are out of
step with public taste, they will be rejected and that could spell
disaster for the fashion house selling them. Its a balancing act that
can be stressful.

The Design Team Fashion houses have a hierarchy. Beginners

without design degrees can start as gophers or as trainees in design
departments, but it can take years working for minimum wages to
move up into a real design position. Those with design degrees can
move much more quickly up the career ladder. Most start in one of
these positions:
Pattern makers makes the patterns that will be used to
produce the designers clothing line
Pattern graders modifies the pattern pieces to allow for size
changes
Trend researcher spots new trends and ideas by conducting
market research

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Sketch artist draws up designs either freehand or on

computer-aided design programs (CAD/CAM)
Spec and fit technicians creates the final production samples
in the correct size and fit
After about two years in one of these positions, a beginner can
move up to assistant designer. As the title implies, the main function
of an assistant designer is to help the designer. Job tasks might include
making the first patterns and samples, assembling presentation
boards, gathering swatches, and supervising sample makers. It is
usually the assistant designers responsibility to maintain the design
library and help solve any technical or creative problems that come up
during the design process. An assistant designer with proven ability
can expect to be promoted to full designer status within four to six
years. An assistant designer helps develop other peoples ideas, but a
designer has the creative freedom to work on original ideas.
Fashion designers are expected to know what will sell in a given
market with an acceptable profit margin. They confer directly with
company management and work closely with the sales department to
develop marketing plans. In large firms, talented designers with
management skills can become head designers. A head designer
usually has several assistants and oversees the entire design
department. Not all designers are capable of successfully juggling
creative and administrative duties.

Specialties There are many different kinds of wearing apparel and

accessories and most designers specialize in just one. A specialty might
be a general type of clothing such as bridal wear, sports wear, or
handbags. There are also specialty designers who focus on particular
types of clothing such as sweaters, swimwear, or athletic shoes.
One very special field is theatrical or costume design. It is
somewhat limited, but it is perfect for a talented designer with a
strong interest in theater, film, or other performing arts such as ballet.
It requires more preparation - at least a bachelors degree in fashion,
costume design, or theater.
Creating costumes for performers offers a unique challenge. It is
not about making a wardrobe that is functional or pretty. Costumes
need to visually express a particular point in time, a place, and the
emotional context. In the case of dancers, the fabrics and designs have
to move in a certain way, too. Most theatrical costume designers work
on a contract basis, usually for one particular movie or ballet
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production at a time. A costume designer is a part of a production

team that may include the director, makeup artists, and set designers.
Together, they create a cohesive visual effect. Along with the rest of
the team, the costume designer studies the script to learn about the
characters they will be dressing.
Perhaps more than any other type of design, costume design
requires research. Wardrobe for a contemporary television show set in
New York City might not take much research, but what about a movie
set in medieval Spain? Would you know how to create an authentic
set of armor? A good costume designer strives to be historically
accurate. He/she prepares by studying up on the people who lived in
the time period and location where the story takes place, paying
particular attention to the clothing, accessories, and activities.
The responsibilities of the costume designer vary depending on
the size of the production. Most of the time, they work closely with
the performers, doing fittings and alterations themselves. Sometimes
they supervise dressers, assistants who set out the costumes and help
the performers change. On movie locations, costume designers are
also responsible for protecting the wardrobes from bad weather.

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FASHION DESIGNERS TELL THEIR OWN

STORIES
I Am a Lead Designer
for a Clothing
Company Ive been in the business for over
20 years now and it still excites me like nothing else could. I jump
out of bed each morning looking forward to the days work
ahead.
When I first graduated from college, I was very full of myself,
convinced Id take the fashion world by storm. Rather than look
for a job in the industry, I immediately put my name on my own
label and began as an independent designer. My lofty dreams
soon came crashing down to earth. Design school is great for
learning the skills of the trade and fostering creativity. But what
they dont tell you is this is a tough business. You have to plot your
course, pay your dues, and work your way up into the spotlight.
After falling on my face, I had two choices: give up or come
up with a practical plan of action. I chose the latter. I spent six
months just studying the industry to get a sense of how it works in
the real world something I should have done before I even went
to design school. I talked to people at every level, from shipping
department clerks to creative directors. I got quite an education!
But rather than feel demoralized by the reality of this business, I
became more convinced than ever that there was a place for me
and I could be successful. The thing you have to understand is this:
you dont go from Point A (school) to Point B (famous designer).
However, the good news is that there are numerous ways to
approach this career. You just have to be willing to do whatever it
takes to get where you want to go.
I started looking for job opportunities that would put me one
step closer to my goal. My first job was working as an illustrator
for an ad agency that specialized in the fashion industry. Other
jobs along the way included buyer for an upscale department
store, art director for a group of business newsletters (only one of
which was fashion related), costume designer for a small ballet
company, and interior designer for a chain of trendy clubs. Each of
these jobs was a stepping stone. And in each position, I learned
something new and valuable about the business of fashion.
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Today I am the lead designer for a womens sportswear

company. My name is not on my designs, but I am working for a
top label. I am proud just to be working here with some of the
most talented and respected people in the industry. Ive been in
the business for over 20 years now and I still have a passion for my
work that borders on obsession. Thats what I call success.

I Am an Independent
Textile Designer Walk through any store
that sells T-shirts and you will probably see my work. I am
essentially a graphic designer who happens to work exclusively on
textiles. Unless youve been living under a rock, you know that
clothing has become an advertising medium over the past 15
years or so. What started out as a niche specialty for me has
become a huge industry unto itself. Graphic prints are everywhere.
Companies of all kinds salivate over the idea of getting people to
wear their company logos and slogans. And the real kicker is
consumers are actually willing to pay for the privilege of being
walking billboards.
Ive always known I wanted a career in the arts. Even as a
child, I had a passion for art. I blindly went to a fine arts school,
but was disappointed by the lack of substance. I almost had my
parents convinced to support me while I lived in Paris for a couple
of years instead. I still think I would have learned more from street
artists in Paris than fine art classes. I guess Ill never know.
Fortunately, one of my professors intervened. He recognized my
frustration and was honest enough to guide me out of fine arts
and into graphic design. He also strongly advised me to
concentrate on advertising design. I thought that was just plain
sacrilegious, but I did as he suggested.
Following this mans guidance was the best thing I could have
done. For two years, I studied topics I never even considered
before. Who knew courses in marketing, public relations,
typography, and business management were just what I needed?
What I learned in those classes did more to prepare me for a
career in design than a hundred art classes ever could.

15

My best advice to anyone interested in a career as a designer

is to learn as much as you can about the business and marketing
aspects of the industry. That goes double for anyone who wants to
be an independent designer. Pay attention to the basics. Learn to
write. How can you get anywhere if you cant write a convincing
proposal or a professional email message? Business math will
seem like a breeze compared to algebra and trig. But it is a class
that will provide the skills you will use every day throughout your
career. A designers education never ends either. If you expect to
succeed, you must be prepared to stay on top of trends in the
industry. That includes both the design end and the technology.
Being an independent designer isnt the easiest route to take,
but for some of us, its the only way. People like me are not cut
out for the corporate life. I enjoy my freedom far too much. Its
exciting, too. I never know who is going to be walking through the
door next or what kind of project Ill be working on next week.
There is so much variety and there is always something new. I have
all kinds of clients from big beer companies to local nonprofit
groups. And being independent means I can go anywhere, live
anywhere, work anywhere. With todays technology, I could take
orders, create my designs, and deliver the final product all from
a tropical beach in Fiji.

I Am an In-House
Fashion Designer I think I was destined
for a career in fashion design. I was raised by my Irish
grandmother in a very frugal household. She never shopped in
clothing stores, only in fabric stores. She taught me to sew when I
was five years old on a treadle machine that she had converted to
electric somewhere along the way. By the time I was 10, I had
taken over the responsibility of making all my own clothes. I never
even owned a store-bought dress until I was 16.
When I was in high school, I was embarrassed to tell anybody
that all my clothes were homemade, But at the same time, I was
keenly aware of what was fashionable and learned to put my own
creative stamp on everything I made. My friends took notice of my
wardrobe and when they asked where I shopped, I reluctantly told
the truth. Much to my surprise, they thought it was really cool that
16

I made my own clothes. Soon all my friends wanted me to make

their clothes, too. At first, I did so as a favor. Eventually, I got up
the nerve to ask for money. I couldnt believe my good fortune.
While others kids were spending mind-numbing afternoons
working in the local fast food joints, I was earning a lot more by
doing something I loved, something I had been doing since
childhood.
By the time I graduated from high school, I had saved up
enough to go to the Art Institute of Dallas. It was a two-year
program. I managed to get one internship for the summer, putting
up garment exhibitions for a local manufacturer of womens wear.
It was enjoyable work and I gained some good experience. More
importantly, I made some contacts that later led me to most of my
jobs.
My first job after graduation, I have to admit, was a total
yawn. It was in a garment factory, where all I did all day was sew
care labels onto shirts. Fortunately, I was only there for a few
months. My next job was better, working as a sample cutter at a
major budget-wear manufacturer. Because the company was so
big, there were more opportunities to move up. My next step was
pattern maker and then assistant designer.
Because I was working with a budget line of clothing, I came
in contact with buyers from all the major discount department
stores. It was through a buyer that I learned of an opening for an
in-house designer at one of the biggest fashion chain stores in the
country. Ive been working here ever since.
I love my job. I spend my days shopping for fabrics and
findings, sketching and brainstorming. I keep it flexible, never
pushing myself to be creative within a set schedule, but always
keeping busy.
My advice to anyone considering this career is to learn as
much as you can about the industry. Look at all the different
aspects like merchandising, journalism, window dressing, and
advertising. Explore other design fields, too, like food styling,
identity design, and interior design. They are all related, utilizing
very similar skills and knowledge of visual aesthetics. The broader
your exposure to all things design-related, the better.
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Choose your school carefully. Design schools tend to

encourage creativity and neglect the business and technical
aspects. Some are the opposite, focusing on technical skills at the
expense of creativity. Ideally, you should get a good balance of
both. In any case, design school is only the beginning. You will
learn the basics of the job and your diploma will get your foot in
the door. What is more important though, is the practical
experience you will get from actually working in the field. That is
where the real training is and if youre doing your job well, you
will never stop learning.

PERSONAL QUALIFICATIONS
FASHION DESIGN IS PRACTICAL OR APPLIED ART THAT INVOLVES WORKING WITH

forms, designs, and patterns. It requires a strong sense of the esthetic,

a sense of balance and proportion, and an appreciation for beauty.
Fashion designers naturally have a strong sense of color and shape.
Creativity and imagination are essential. Coming up with the
occasional design idea is not enough even if its a terrific idea. You
will need to generate dozens of ideas and within a limited period of
time.
Originality is always a good thing, but there are limits to how
original you can be in fashion design. You will always be working
within the boundaries of current fashion trends and the buyers tastes.
And most of the time you will be adapting other peoples designs.
Your challenge will be to come up with unusual or clever ideas to
make those designs your own.
You will be sketching constantly so you will need to have some
artistic abilities. You should be able to draw freehand and have a good
grasp of the human form. Being able to draw on the computer is
becoming increasingly important, but hand-sketching ability is still a
big advantage in the fashion industry.
This is primarily a visual art. A fashion designer must have a keen
eye for beauty and excellent color perception. You will need to be able
to discriminate between the subtlest of colors, including shades and
brightness. But visualization is mental. You should be able to see in
your minds eye how something will look when it is finished. You need
to be able to look at a sketch and imagine how the garment will look
and feel when a real person wears it. You also need to visualize how it
will look when something is changed, if you want to move or
rearrange parts.
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You should have a passion for fashion. Do you daydream about

having a runway collection or being the costume designer on the next
blockbuster movie? Do you doodle while youre on the phone or tell
your sister how to accessorize her outfits? Are you the first one to let
your friends know when their clothes are out of fashion? Fashion
designers love everything about the world of fashion and are always in
tune with the latest trends. They constantly read fashion magazines,
window shop, and attend fashion shows. Successful designers do this
not because they have to, but because they want to. The very best
fashion designers do more than keep up with current fashion trends;
they stay one step ahead of the market by anticipating changes.
Fashion designers also need excellent communication skills and
the ability to work either alone or in a team environment.
Make no mistake this is a tough business where only the most
determined succeed. You need to be able and willing to work under
pressure and meet never-ending deadlines. You should be prepared to
accept criticism, too, from the public, your superiors, and other
designers. A good working knowledge of business, marketing, and
self-promotion will help you move ahead in this highly competitive
environment.

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ATTRACTIVE FEATURES
FASHION DESIGN IS A CAREER MARKED BY GLAMOUR AND EXCITEMENT. THOSE AT

the top of the profession are often treated like rock stars riding
around in limousines, making the rounds of TV talk shows, putting on
extravagant shows, and basking in the glory of applause and flashing
cameras. They are famous thanks to millions of consumers who look
for their labels when they shop for new clothes. It is a fashion in itself
to wear clothes with designer names boldly displayed for everyone to
see.
The money is good. With only two years of schooling, a beginner
in New York (the heart of the American fashion world) can expect a
starting salary of over $40,000. Designers move upward fairly quickly,
too. In just a few years, that same beginner could be earning over
$90,000. The best designers do extremely well. Incomes for talented
and experienced designers can range from $100,000 to $150,000. The
sky is the limit for well-known fashion designers with signature lines or
their own fashion houses. Some make millions from their creations.
But those are the exception.
There is opportunity for travel. Many designers travel widely for
showings and conferences. High fashion designers get to travel to the
fashion capitals of the world such as Paris and Milan. Even ordinary
designers are routinely sent abroad. You might find yourself in India,
buying a boatload of cotton fabric. Or maybe your company has
contracted with a factory in China to manufacture your designs, and
you need to make sure with your own eyes that garment pieces are
being dyed the right shade of pink.
As a fashion designer, you will get paid to do what you love most.
You will spend time in stores looking at clothes and accessories made
by competitors. You will read Elle, Vogue, and Womens Wear Daily
and get paid for it. You will attend many fashion shows.
It does
not require a major investment in education to get into this field.
Technically, you can get started with only a high school diploma, but
that is not advisable. But it only takes one to three years to get the
proper training you need to launch a successful career.
This is a very creative field. You will get to use your artistic talents
and work alongside other creative people who share your interest in
fashion. Best of all, you will see people wearing clothing that you
designed and loving it!

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UNATTRACTIVE FEATURES
FASHION DESIGN IS AN EXCITING CAREER CHOICE THAT HAS A LOT GOING FOR IT.

With excitement, however, come pressure and stress. Styles for future
seasons are previewed at fashion shows. Months of work go into the
preparation of the shows. The pressure builds as show time nears. If
the line flops, the company loses money and jobs are jeopardized. If all
goes well, the work pace gets even more hectic. There is always the
worry that problems will arise in production and the clothes wont get
into the stores on time.
Some designers enjoy working in bright and clean studios with all
the ambience of an art gallery. Most, however, work in cluttered and
noisy surroundings. Instead of having a personal workspace, a
designer usually works in a huge design room filled with long tables
for cutting out patterns and not a chair in sight. Many fashion houses
and garment manufacturers are housed in old buildings with dreary
interiors, no air conditioning, and more stairs than elevators.
Fashion designers who choose to freelance can create more
pleasing workspaces for themselves. But self-employment has its own
set of headaches. A common complaint from freelancers is that clients
dont know enough about the process of design. There is a constant
need to educate potential clients, if only to justify the value (and cost)
of design. Making a living as a freelancer isnt always easy either. There
is no ongoing salary to count on and there will always be the
inevitable down time between contracts. No contract, no work, no
pay. Still, freelancing does have its allure. For someone with
exceptional talent and skills and a knack for business, there is the very
real potential to earn more than a salaried designer while enjoying
creative freedom and autonomy.

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EDUCATION AND TRAINING

IT IS POSSIBLE TO ENTER THE FIELD OF FASHION DESIGN WITH ONLY A HIGH SCHOOL

diploma. After all, this is a creative endeavor and no school can teach
you how to be creative. Do you have a good sense of line, color, form,
balance, proportion, and an eye for detail? Can you sew? Can you
come up with some original ideas as well as new twists on old
designs? If you can demonstrate you have artistic talent and a sense of
style, then you need to put together a portfolio to prove it. Hopefully,
you can draw well enough to get your ideas across clearly. If not, dont
despair. You can always put your designs on mannequins or live
models (its okay to use your friends) and take photos. Youll still need
to learn to draw though and the sooner the better.
A portfolio that shows you love fashion and are capable of coming
up with good ideas can get you an entry-level job in the fashion
industry. However, without formal training it is unlikely that you will
start as a designer or even an assistant designer. In fact, it could take
years to get your first shot at one of those positions. It is more likely
that you will be cutting, sewing, ironing, or fetching mocha lattes for
the designers.
If you are serious about making fashion design your career, you
have a much better chance of success with some education. You will
still need a portfolio, but instead of using it to apply for a job you will
use it to get into a vocational school or college that provides
specialized training in fashion design.
There are many schools with fashion programs and most of them
teach the necessary basics: technical expertise in garment
construction, principles of design, and computer-aided design skills.
But there are only a few schools, including Parsons School of Design
and Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) that can boast top-notch
reputations in the industry. A diploma from one of these schools is like
a magic key that unlocks the door to a great future. You will receive
the best training, but the real advantage is that these schools work
closely with the industry. For example, successful designers like Donna
Karan work directly with the graduating students at Parsons by
critiquing their work and offering guidance. Ambitious students at
RISD have the opportunity to compete for prestigious awards and
grants that bring attention as well as money. At the end of the last
semester, graduating students at these schools show their collections
at fashion shows attended by important people scouting for new
talent.
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A diploma from one of the top design schools comes with

contacts that you probably cant get on your own. Chances are good
that you will have your first job lined up before graduation day. It is
not easy to get accepted; these schools are very selective and
competition among applicants is touch. You should try as hard as you
can though. It is well worth the effort.
If you cant get into a top tier design school, there are many other
choices. Some big city high schools offer classes in commercial sewing,
principles of design, and fashion marketing. Students who pass all the
required classes are qualified to earn a certificate from the National
Occupational Competency Testing Institute.
There are many community colleges and vocational schools that
offer two-year programs in the fundamentals of fashion design.
Students in these schools can earn an Associate of Arts degree or
certificate. Classes typically include sketching, draping,
pattern-making, cutting, garment construction, textiles and trimmings,
fashion marketing, and principles of design and color.
There are also many four-year fashion design programs offered
through colleges and universities. In addition to design, courses may
include marketing strategy, sales control systems, principles of
customer and personal service, psychology, sociology, anthropology,
and various courses in fine arts. However, many in the professional
consider vocational schools a better choice because they are more
closely allied with the garment industry than most four-year
institutions.
Most vocational schools offer two choices. If you want to enter
the field as quickly as possible, you can choose to earn a first-level
certificate of proficiency that will qualify you for a job as a Design
Room Assistant. This short course will prepare you to work in a design
room, doing general tasks such as spec writing, cataloging fabrics and
trims, and updating sample boards.
If you would prefer to enter the field as a designer, you can earn a
second-level certificate. It will take more time, but you will be qualified
to work as an Assistant Designer. It is a job that requires a thorough
knowledge of apparel construction, patterns, color, and design.
Courses for this extended program include:
Design techniques and tools
Pattern making and grading
Draping and flat work
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Garment construction
Ornamentation, trimmings, and features
Fabric behavior and application
Costume history
Principles of design and color
Cost analysis and pricing
Planning and promoting seasonal lines
Trends in the fashion world
Even beginner Assistant Designers often get to do real design
work. For example, you might be asked to produce flat drawings of
garments with detailed specifications for production or create theme
boards with fabrics and trims.
First-level certificate holders always have the option of returning
to school to earn a second-level certificate or an associates degree.
Designers who want to specialize in costume design will need a
Bachelor of Arts degree.

EARNINGS
FASHION DESIGNERS CAN MAKE A GREAT DEAL MONEY. IT IS NOT UNUSUAL FOR

highly skilled and well-known designers in top firms to earn more than
$150,000 annually. But 90% of designers earn less than $100,000.
How much you earn will depend on your talent, your reputation, the
size of your employers company, and the kind of fashion design you
do.
Nationwide, the median annual income for fashion designers is
around $50,000, with most earning between $35,000 and $75,000.
Incomes are higher in the two fashion capitals, New York and
California. Fashion designers in California average $60,000 annually. In
New York, entry-level designers start out at around $45,000 while
more experienced designers such as head designers earn an average
$95,000 a year.
How well beginners are paid depends on education and training.
You can get into this career with no training at all, but you will have to
take an entry level position that pays meager wages, probably less
than $25,000 a year. The picture is much brighter if you have an
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associates degree in fashion design. With this kind of preparation, you

can start as a design room assistant or assistant designer. The average
starting salaries for degree holders is about $35,000 a great payoff
for only two years of schooling. There is an added bonus, too. Design
school graduates can expect to move up the career ladder fairly
quickly, increasing earnings with each step.
Talented designers with proven abilities can negotiate for better
salaries and benefits. Much is dependent on reputations, for both the
designer and the fashion house. Typically, as a designer becomes well
known, he/she is offered a share of the company. The ownership share
percentage grows as the designers name becomes better known. Top
designers with successful clothing lines at important fashion houses
also earn bonuses that have the potential for millions of dollars in
additional income.
Some fashion designers are self-employed. A freelance designers
income can exceed that of a salaried designer. But earnings can vary
greatly depending on reputation, talent, business acumen, and type of
clientele. Some work on retainer with a guaranteed percentage of the
gross. Others are paid per unit or contract.
The most common freelancers in this industry are costume
designers. Most costume designers do not earn as much as fashion
designers, but they do usually make more than $1,000 per week. That
does not mean, however, that they necessarily earn $50,000 a year.
Costume designers almost always work on a contract basis and long
periods of unemployment between contracts are not unusual.

OPPORTUNITIES
THE FIELD OF FASHION DESIGN IS A SMALL ONE, BUT INTERESTINGLY, DESIGNERS

are key people in the industry - for each fashion designer there are 100
garment workers producing the designs.
Fashion designers at the top of their profession enjoy high pay
and prestige. They rarely retire early, which does create strong
competition for those on the way up. But there will always be room
for talented designers. Demand for fashion designers is expected to
grow faster than for most professions in the coming years. A growing
population with growing personal incomes is spurring the demand.
American consumers have come to expect fresh styles with the change
of every season. And they have the money to satisfy an appetite for
new clothes and accessories on a regular basis.
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Despite the job growth, this is a very competitive field. Like all
artistic fields, fashion design is very appealing to creative and talented
people. Those who invest in proper training have the best chance of
breaking in. There are plenty of openings for assistant designers, but
only those who develop the necessary technical expertise at a design
school qualify for these positions.
Most aspiring fashion designers dream of working in high fashion.
Unfortunately, that is the toughest area to break into. The
employment outlook is much better in other specialized areas such as
childrens clothing, athletic wear, and sleepwear.
There are some opportunities for fashion designers in most US
cities. However, New York is the number one fashion center in America
and therefore has the most jobs. California is a close second, with
numerous opportunities in Los Angeles and San Francisco.
Most designers advance by moving from firm to firm. A beginner
might start as a cutting assistant in one company, then take a job as
assistant designer in another company. Or a technical designer might
be stuck with no way to progress at a pattern company, but the
experience qualifies him/her for the position of head designer at a
mass market manufacturer. The world of fashion is small and word of
opportunities gets around fast. Networking is usually the key to
finding the next job opening.
There are also opportunities for fashion designers to move into
related fields that are more administrative than creative. A few of the
possibilities are merchandising, production supervision, and buying.

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GETTING STARTED
A L L G O O D FA S H I O N D E S I G N SCHOOLS HAVE JOB PLACEMENT OFFICES. THE

best employers scout the top schools to fill job openings for assistant
designers. If you cant find a job as assistant designer, you may have to
accept some other entry-level job, such as cutter or assistant pattern
maker. Keep looking for an assistant designer job though so you dont
get stuck in the workroom.
The most effective method of finding a job in fashion design is to
approach potential employers directly. Look in the yellow pages for
dressmakers, garment manufacturers, large department stores,
custom dress shops, paper pattern makers, costumers, theater
companies, and design studios. If you dont see any listings, you
probably live in the wrong city and you will need to move. Most jobs
openings are going to be in New York or California.
Learn to network. This is an industry where everybody knows
everybody. Start by talking to people you have met through summer
or part-time jobs. Join a professional organization such as the local
chapter of the Fashion Group International or the Costume Council.
Look for help wanted ads. Occasionally, an ad will appear in a
newspaper, but youll find most job notices in the trade journals.
You can also search for a job online. Look for specialty websites
geared specifically towards the fashion industry. For example, at the
Fashion Career Center you can search for fashion jobs, post your
resum , and even show your portfolio to prospective employers and
recruiters.

27

ASSOCIATIONS
California Fashion Association (CFA)

californiafashionassociation.org
Costume Designers Guild (CDG)

www.costumedesignersguild.com
Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)

www.cfda.com
American Apparel and Footwear Association

www.apparelandfootwear.org/
Fashion Group International

http://www.fgi.org/home.html
Gen Art

www.genart.org
International Apparel Federation

http://www.iafnet.org/
New York Fashion International

www.fashionexportsny.org
San Francisco Fashion Industries

http://www.sffi.org/
International Association of Clothing Designers

http://www.iacde.com/

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PERIODICALS
Womens Wear Daily

http://www.wwd.com/
The Fashion Directory

http://www.convergentus.se/fashion/
Vogue

http://www.style.com/vogue/
Guide to New York Fashion Week

www.newyorkmetro.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/
Daily News Record

http://www.dailynewsrecord.com
The Look On-line

http://www.lookonline.com/content2.html

WEBSITES
Area of Design

http://www.areaofdesign.com/
National Association of Schools of Art and Design

http://nasad.arts-accredit.org/index.jsp
Fashion Net

http://www.fashion.net/
Fashion Institute of Technology

http://www.fitnyc.suny.edu/html/dynamic.html
The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising

http://www.fidm.com/
Rhode Island School of Design

www.RISD.edu
The Art Institute of Dallas

http://www.aid.edu/

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 The International Academy of Design and Technology in

Chicago
http://www.iadtchicago.edu/
Fashion Business Incorporated

http://www.fashionbizinc.org/
Fashion East

www.fashioneast.co.uk
Material World

http://www.material-world.com
The LA Fashion District

http://www.fashiondistrict.org/
Parsons School of Design

http://www.parsons.edu/
Fashion Career Center

http://fashioncareercenter.com/

COPYRIGHT Institute For Career Research 2009

CAREERS INTERNET DATABASE www.careers-internet.org

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