Professional Documents
Culture Documents
SS
Oleon nv
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11
F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00
E: info@oleon.com
Sandefjord
Oleon Scandinavia AS
Framnesveien 57, PO Box 2051
3202 Sandefjord - Norway
T: + 47 33 44 88 00
F: + 47 33 44 88 99
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Oleon R&D
Compigne
Novance Innovation
Rue les Rives de lOise
BP 20609 - Venette
60206 Compigne Cedex -France
T: +33 3 44 90 70 07
F: +33 3 44 90 70 70
Methods of Analysis
Acid value
AOCS Cd 3a-63
Iodine value
AOCS Cd 1-25
Hydroxyl value
AOCS Cd 13-60
Saponification value
AOCS Cd 3-25
AOCS Ce 1b-89
Melting point
AOCS Cc 3-25
Cloud point
AOCS Cc 6-25
Alpha-monoglycerides
Free glycerol
AOCS Ca 14-56
AOCS Ca 2e-84
Color, Lovibond
Color, Gardner
Color, Apha
Flash point, C
AOCS Cc 9a-48
Oleon UK Ltd
19 Wolsey Close
Worcester Park
Surrey KT4 7EF
United Kingdom
T: + 44 2083 379 111
F: + 44 2083 303 684
E: info.uk@oleon.com
Oleon Southern Europe Srl
Corso Podest 8/1
16128 Genova - Italy
T: + 39 01 05 39 98 14
F: + 39 01 05 41 931
E: info.southern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon Northern Europe
Framnesveien 57, PO Box 2051
3202 Sandefjord - Norway
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F: + 47 33 44 88 99
E: info.northern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon Americas Inc
205 Bryce Circle Suite B
Simpsonville, SC 29681 - USA
T:+1 864 329 1887
F:+ 1 864 329 1897
E: info.americas@oleon.com
Oleon Asia-Pacific Sdn Bhd
Suite 28-08 Level 28, Centro
8 Jalan Batu Tiga Lama
41300 Klang
Selangor Darul Ehsan - Malaysia
T: + 60 3 3345 2782
F: + 60 3 3345 2758
E: info.asia-pacific@oleon.com
Oleon Benelux
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)9 341 11 54
F: +32 (0)9 341 12 62
E: info.benelux@oleon.com
oleon.com
PERSONAL CARE
Starting from natural, renewable raw materials, Oleon manufactures a broad range
of natural chemicals with varying characteristics to fit many application needs
and most demanding requirements. We offer renewable, environmental friendly,
and biodegradable ingredients for your processes: Oleon, a natural chemistry!
e
ar
lC
na
so
Pe
r
SM
ET
IC
trade name
products
- fatty acids
- glycerine
- esters
- dimer acids
- technical oils
- ketones
- biodiesel
- specialty oleochemicals
raw materials
Oleon
production
sites
safety
quality
environment
Information contained in this publication is true and accurate to the best of our knowledge. The nominal values
stated herein are obtained using laboratory test specimens. Oleon nv and its affiliated companies do not accept any
liability whatsoever arising from the use of this information or the use, application or processing of any product
described herein. No information contained in this publication can be considered as a suggestion to infring patents.
The Company disclaims any liability that may be claimed for infringement or alleged infringement
Table of contents
3 General information
6 Overview Radia products for personal care
10
Glycerine
12
Radiacid fatty acids
16 Radia emollients
18 Radia pearlescent - bodying agents
22 Radia emulsifiers
24 Radia stabilizers
26 Radianol isostearic acid and derivatives
28 Product properties and applications
30 Composition of natural fats and oils
32 Alphabetical list by INCI names
Radia
oleochemicals
General Information
Oleochemicals are derived from a naturally renewable resource: natural fats and oils.
Oleochemistry splits these raw materials to obtain their constituents, glycerine and fatty acids,
and then recombines them with other molecules or with each other.
Oleochemistry uses the biodegradable, non-toxic and non-irritant properties of natural fats
and oils to produce a wide range of chemicals.
The production of Radia and Nouracid oleochemicals is an integrated operation from
fatty acids and glycerine to oleochemical derivatives, specialty and performance chemicals.
Traditionally, most end uses of oleochemicals have resulted from their lack of toxicity and
from the low skin and eye irritation displayed by the hydrocarbon chains present in natural
fatty materials.
Today, governments and industry are increasingly aware of the combination of efficiency and
environmental compatibility offered by oleochemicals. In recent years Oleon Research has
developed many new environmentally friendly oleochemicals, such as a biodegradable drilling
mud fluid, a lubricant for water-based drilling muds, base oils for biodegradable lubricants,
deinking chemicals and non-VOC solvents.
fatty acids
Oleon, the leader on the European oleochemical scene, markets a wide range of fatty acids.
Radiacid and Nouracid fatty acids are derived from animal fats and oils such as beef tallow
and from vegetable oils such as soybean oil, rapeseed oil, coconut and palm kernel oils, palm
oil, etc. Radiacid and Nouracid fatty acids are produced by Oleon in its plant at Ertvelde
near Ghent, Belgium (which went into production in 1958), and its Kosher and HALAL certified
plant in Emmerich, Germany (in production since 1908). Over the years these plants have grown
to their present status: not only one of the biggest but also one of the most modern and
efficient oleochemical plants worldwide. In Ertvelde fatty acids and glycerine are produced.
In the Emmerich plant the production of specialty fatty acids takes place, along with ketones,
technical oils and vitamins.
natural glycerine
The applications of natural glycerine are based on a unique combination of properties:
it is a tasteless and odorless hygroscopic, non-toxic and non-irritant viscous liquid with a
plasticizing and lubricating activity, and it contains three free hydroxyl groups, supplying
chemical reactivity.
fatty esters
The performance-directed esterification or transesterification of our own fatty acids, fatty
alcohols, hydrogenated triglycerides and glycerine with other acids and alcohols leads to a
wide range of oily, fatty or waxy substances, each with its own specific physical and chemical
properties. Almost all fatty esters display the inherent advantages of their raw materials, natural
fats and oils: they are non-toxic, non-irritating and biodegradable. The number of possible fatty
esters is virtually unlimited. So are the combinations of functions they can perform.
100
80
60
40
20
Rapeseed oil
Radia
White oil
Weeks
RADIA
Application
overview
TRADE NAME
INCI NAME
ORIGIN
VEGETABLE
PHYSICAL
FORM
liquid
Radia 7752
Butyl stearate
Radia 7101
Radia 7104
liquid
Radia 7500
Cetyl palmitate
flakes
Radia 7336
Decyl oleate
liquid
Radia 7722
Ethylhexyl cocoate
liquid
Radia 7779
Ethylhexyl palmitate
liquid
Radia 7772
Ethylhexyl stearate
liquid
Radiasurf 7908
paste
Radiasurf 7143
Glyceryl stearate
flakes
Radiasurf 7343
flakes
Radiasurf 7142
flakes
Radiamuls 2643
flakes
Radiamuls 2932
powder
Radiamuls 2950
powder
Radiasurf 7141
Glyceryl stearate SE
flakes
Glycol distearate
flakes
Radiasurf 7270
Glycol stearate
flakes
Radia 7750
Isoamyl laurate
liquid
Radia 7739
Isopropyl isostearate
Radia 7730
Isopropyl myristate
liquid
Radia 7732
Isopropyl palmitate
liquid
Radia 0909
Isostearic acid
liquid
Radia 0908
Isostearic acid
liquid
Radia 1980
Isostearyl alcohol
liquid
Radia 7687
liquid
Radiasurf 7403
PEG-8 oleate
liquid
Radiasurf 7473
PEG-10 stearate
liquid
Radiasurf 7454
PEG-12 distearate
Radiasurf 7318
Radialube 7181
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
Radia 7268
paste
liquid
liquid
liquid
liquid
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
flakes
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate
liquid
Radiasurf 7137
Polysorbate 20
liquid
Radiasurf 7147
Polysorbate 60
liquid
Radiamuls 2157
Polysorbate 80
liquid
liquid
powder
Radia 7208
Radiamuls SL2990
Radiasurf 7758
Sorbitan isostearate
Radiasurf 7125
Sorbitan laurate
paste
Radiamuls 2155
Sorbitan oleate
liquid
Radiasurf 7145
Sorbitan stearate
flakes
Radiasurf 7755
Sorbitan trioleate
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
Radia 7380
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Radia 7363
Triolein
liquid
liquid
liquid
liquid
liquid
perfumes &
fragrances
eye products
nail products
lip products
facial make-up
shaving
oral care
antiperspirants
& deodorants
COLOR COSMETICS
TOILETRIES
bath & baby oils
conditioners
shampoos
sun
baby care
body
opacifier
emollient
facial
HAIR CARE
solvent
SKIN CARE
consistency agent
solubilizer
dispersant
emulsifier w/o
emulsifier o/w
coemulsifier o/w
cleansing agent
FUNCTION
Personal care
GLYCERINe
The ability to hold and attract water, the humectancy, of glycerine is stronger than that of a
polyol such as sorbitol. It contributes to the stability of the products and supplements the skins
water content. Glycerine is miscible with water and alcohol. It is a solvent for lower alcohols,
glycols, a partial solvent for low molecular weight esters and ethers and it is insoluble in oils
and higher alcohols. Among the various other properties related to the hygroscopicity and
solubilization characteristics of glycerine are: plasticizing, binding and the enhancement of
smoothness and gloss. Glycerine can also act as a preservative, as a barrier for oily materials,
as a fixative for perfumes and as a carrier of pigments and other ingredients. Many personal
care products contain glycerine: all types of barrier and protective creams, cleansing lotions,
shaving lotions; liposome formulations; barrier and protective gels, clear gels and sticks; nail
hardeners, cuticle removers; toothpaste, mouth wash; eye shadows, face powders, make-up
creams; transparent cleansing compounds; clear toilet soaps; perfumes; etc. Our pharmaceutical
and chemically pure glycerines meet the requirements of the U.S. and European Pharmacopoeia.
Table 2 / typical
Type
Glycerol content
by refractive
index, %
4813
mixed
99.5
0.5
10
1.4732
1.2620
4823
mixed
86 - 88
12 - 14
10
1.4524 - 1.4554
1.2271 - 1.2325
4818
mixed
99.8
0.2
10
1.4737
1.2632
4810
vegetable
99.5
0.5
10
1.4732-1.4740
1.2620
4827
vegetable
84 - 88
12 - 16
10
1.4524 - 1.4554
1.2271 - 1.2325
4833
kosher
99.7
0.3
10
1.4735
1.2629
4808
vegetable
99.7
0.3
10
1.4735 -1.4740
1.2620
Code number
Water
(Karl Fischer),%
Color Apha
(Hazen)
Refractive index
at 20C
Relative
density at 20 C
11
Acidity/
Alkalinity,
meq/100 g
Esters,
ml 0.1 M HCl
Sulphated
Ash, %
Chloride (CI),
ppm
Halogenated
compounds,
ppm
Heavy metals,
ppm
Aldehydes,
ppm
Impurity
and related
substances
0.04
0.01
30
10
0.04
0.01
10
30
10
conform
0.04
0.01
10
30
10
conform
0.04
0.01
10
30
10
conform
0.04
0.01
10
30
10
conform
0.04
0.01
10
30
10
conform
0.04
0.01
10
30
10
conform
RADIACID
FATTY ACIDS
Radiacid fatty acids are emollients, bodying agents, stabilizers and binders.
Their main application however is the production of soaps: luxury soaps,
shaving sticks and emulsifying soaps.
TRADE NAME
ACID VALUE,
mg KOH/g
IODINE VALUE,
g I 2/100g
LOVIBOND COLOR,
5 1/4"
TITRE, C
CLOUD POINT, C
Yellow max
Red max
Behenic acid
Radiacid 0560
155-165
<2
> 75
20
Radiacid 0600
252-264
8-12
25-29
Radiacid 0620
254-266
10-20
23-28
20
Radiacid 0625
265-277
7-11
23-26
20
Radiacid 0631
260-275
<1
26-31
Radiacid 0632
252-259
<1
29-33
10
Radiacid 0166
196-204
110-120
4-14
15
Radiacid 0215
194-202
90-98
<17
10
Radiacid 0254
195-204
90-98
<8
1.2
Radiacid 0294
194-201
85-94
<10
APHA max 60
Radiacid 0152
195-201
<2
65-69
10
Radiacid 0414
201-209
<1
57-61
0.5
Radiacid 0417
205-211
<1
54-57
0.3
Radiacid 0419
206-211
<1
54-57
1.5
0.3
Radiacid 0421
208-212
<1
54-56
0.3
Radiacid 0464
209-214
<1
54-56
0.3
Radiacid 0908
180
10
Apha
100
Radiacid 0909
190 -197
Apha
100
Coconut acids
Oleic acids
Stearic acids
Isostearic acid
Emulsions
Monovalent fatty acid soaps form oil-in-water emulsions. High-melting stearic acids are used
in emulsions with bodying properties for body milks, hydrating creams, protective creams, etc.
Soaps of oleic acid yield more fluid emulsions, which modify the viscosity of stearic soap
based cream.
13
Soaps
Stearic acids are products of choice for the manufacture of luxury soaps and shaving sticks
or foams. Oleic acids are recommended to produce liquid pump soaps. Coconut acids are
outstanding foamers, used in shaving foams and aerosols. The foam they produce is extremely
soft and offers great ease of expulsion.
C6-10
C12
C14
C16
C18
C20
C22
C16-1
C18-1
C18-2
C18-3
> 85
< 1,5
52-59
19-23
8-12
1-5
5-10
<3
6-14
40-46
14-18
9-16
3-8
7-12
<4
9-17
46-52
16-20
7-11
1-5
4-9
<3
9-17
44-51
16-20
8-12
8-14
< 1.5
51-57
20-25
9-12
9-14
4-8
<3
<5
<2
56-66
18-25
6-10
2-7
3-6
<3
<1
73-82
7-13
<4
<5
<2
<1
> 70
<16
<1
<4
>90
>92
<3
30-35
60-69
<2
42-49
49-55
<4
45-50
48-50
<5
50-55
41-47
<2
<4
59-68
31-38
<2
<2
<1
0.1
0.5
branched chains
71
cyclis chains
16
0.1
0.5
branched chains
75.5
cyclis chains
14
Fatty acids
15
RADIA
EMOLLIENTS
Table 4 / emollients
TRADE NAME
INCI NAME
PHYSICAL FORM
FATTY ACID
COMPOSITION,
%
ACID VALUE,
mg KOH/g
Radia 7752
Butyl stearate
paste
< 0.5
Radia 7104
liquid
C8/C10 60/40
< 0.2
Radia 7101
liquid
C8/C10 70/30
< 0.2
Radia 7336
Decyl oleate
liquid
<1
Radia 7722
Ethylhexyl cocoate
liquid
<1
Radia 7779
Ethylhexyl palmitate
liquid
<1
Radia 7772
Ethylhexyl stearate
liquid
<1
Radia 7750
Isoamyl laurate
liquid
C12 > 97
<1
Radia 7730
Isopropyl myristate
liquid
C 14 > 98
<1
Radia 7732
Isopropyl palmitate
liquid
C16 > 92
<1
Radia 7178
liquid
< 0.5
Radia 7181
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
liquid
<1
Radia 7208
liquid
< 0.2
Radiamuls 2375
Triheptanoin
liquid
< 0.3
Radia 7363
Triolein
liquid
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
liquid
C18:1 77-86
<2
<2
The most popular method of achieving moisturization is the use of humectants and emollients.
Emollients form a semi-occlusive film on the skin and make the skin feel soft and smooth.
They often reduce TEWL (transepidermal water loss) which tends to increase the water
content of the stratum corneum. Radia esters presented in the table below are excellent
emollients and solvents. They will confer a light and non-fatty texture to creams and lotions.
Partial or total replacement of vegetable or mineral oils by these esters will reduce the perceived greasiness and improves the stability of cosmetics formulations. Radia esters are very
compatible and can be used in most type of products requiring emolliency: creams, lotions,
bath oils, sun oils, hair conditioners, shaving creams, make-up preparations,
17
COLOR
IODINE VALUE,
POUR POINT,
CLOUD POINT,
VISCOSITY AT 40C,
g l 2/100g
mm 2/s
20
20-25
7.2
METHOD
VALUE
<1
APHA
< 65
<1
APHA
< 50
< -10
16
<1
APHA
< 70
< -12
14
55-65
APHA
< 200
< 10
10
< 10
APHA
< 100
< -10
6.0
<1
APHA
< 50
<2
9.0
<1
APHA
< 50
< 10
10
<1
APHA
< 70
< -15
3.9
<1
APHA
< 25
<2
4.2
<1
APHA
< 30
< 13
<1
APHA
< 100
30
< 10
Gardner
<8
< 0.5
APHA
< 100
<1
Lovibond 5 1/4"
40Y-4R
85-95
Lovibond 5 1/4"
< 50
<8
Gardner
<6
-3
< -25
190
< -20
< -30
-15
< -25
11
<2
9.0
70,8
RADIA
PEARLESCENT
BODYING AGENTS
ACID VALUE,
TRADE NAME
INCI NAME
PHYSICAL FORM
Radia 7500
Cetyl palmitate
flakes, powder
< 1.5
Radia 7268
Glycol distearate
flakes, powder
< 3.5
Radia 7270
Glycol stearate
flakes
< 2.5
Radia 7515
Tribehenin
waxy solid
<2
Radia 7181
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
liquid
< 0.5
Radia 7176
Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate
flakes, powder
<3
Radiasurf 7201
flakes, powder
<3
Radia 7501
Stearyl stearate
flakes, powder
< 1.5
mg KOH/g
Pearlescent agents such as Radia 7268 and Radiasurf 7201 are highly recommended to
give a creamy appearance and a pearlizing effect to shampoos, shower and bath products.
Radiasurf 7201 can act also as auxiliary emulsifier and bodying agent for creams and lotions.
Other high melting point esters presented in the table below are synthetic waxes. They are
emollients, film formers, consistency agents, texture promotors for emulsions and make-up
preparations such as lipsticks, mascaras, compact powders
19
COLOR
IODINE VALUE,
g l 2/100g
MELTING POINT,
C
METHOD
VALUE
<2
Lovibond 1"
5Y-0,6R
52-56
<1
Lovibond 5 1/4"
15Y-3R
62-65
<3
Lovibond 5 1/4"
17Y-2.7R
54-60
<3
Lovibond 1"
15Y-3R
>56
< 10
Gardner
<3
<1
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1.5R
59-63
<1
Gardner
<2
37-42
<1
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1R
55-59
Opacifiers
21
RADIA
EMULSIFIERS
Table 6 / emulsifiers
INCI NAME
PHYSICAL FORM
HLB
Radiasurf 7141
flakes, powder
5.5
Radiamuls 2932
flakes, powder
Radiamuls 2990
flakes, powder
Radiasurf 7125
Sorbitan laurate
Radiasurf 7145
TRADE NAME
ACID VALUE,
IODINE VALUE,
mg KOH/g
g l 2/100g
<3
<3
15-30
<3
60-80
<3
paste
7.6
<6
< 10
Sorbitan stearate
flakes, powder
5.0
<7
<1
Radiamuls 2155
Sorbitan oleate
liquid
4.7
<7
62-76
Radiasurf 7758
Sorbitan isostearate
liquid
4.7
<8
<6
Radiasurf 7755
Sorbitan trioleate
liquid
2.7
< 15
75-90
Radiasurf 7137
Polysorbate 20
liquid
16.5
<2
<3
Radiasurf 7147
Polysorbate 60
paste
15.5
<2
<1
Radiamuls 2157
Polysorbate 80
liquid
14.9
<2
18-24
Radiasurf 7402
PEG-4 oleate
liquid
7.4
<3
55-65
Radiasurf 7447
PEG-8 diisostearate
liquid
9,5
<5
<4
Radiasurf 7443
PEG-8 dioleate
liquid
7.4
<5
55-65
Radiasurf 7445
PEG-8 diricinoleate
liquid
<5
50-70
Radiasurf 7423
PEG-8 laurate
liquid
12.8
<3
<1
Radiasurf 7403
PEG-8 oleate
liquid
11.5
<3
35-44
Radiasurf 7473
PEG-8 stearate
paste
11.1
<3
<1
Radiasurf 7444
PEG-12 dioleate
liquid
9.9
<5
45-60
Radiasurf 7454
PEG-12 distearate
paste
10.6
<5
<1
Radiasurf 7404
PEG-12 oleate
liquid
13.2
<3
25-37
Radiamuls 2248
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
flakes, powder
<2
<2
Radiamuls 2253
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate
liquid
<2
75-95
Anionic emulsifiers
Nonionic emulsifiers
Radia emulsifiers belong to the anionic and non-ionic surfactant classes. Anionic emulsifiers
presented below are outstanding candidates for natural formulations. They are primary o/w
emulsifiers recommended for all types of skin care preparations. Selection of the suitable
emulsifier can be oriented by the HLB system which represents the hydrophilic and lipophilic
tendencies of the surfactant. HLB values will depend on the ratio of these properties. These
values vary from 0 to 20. Radia emulsifiers with low HLB, such as sorbitan esters, will behave
as w/o emulsifiers. On the opposite, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, polysorbates, will behave
as o/w emulsifiers. In general, emulsifier systems show better results than single emulsifiers.
Resulting HLB of the blend can be calculated from the sum of the emulsifier percentages
involved. As an example, sorbitan esters will be added to polysorbate based o/w emulsions to
stabilize creams and lotions.
23
PEG esters result from the esterification of polyethylene glycols with fatty acids. The processing
conditions and the raw materials selected allow to obtain emulsifiers with a wide range of
HLB values. Besides their emulsifying properties, PEG-10 dioleate, as an example, will be used
in bath oils to help forming a continuous film on the water; PEG-10 stearate in cream shampoos to lend opacity and body, Polyglycerol esters are recommended as w/o emulsifiers.
color
POUR POINT,
CLOUD POINT,
MELTING POINT,
VISCOSITY AT 40C,
mm 2/s
Method
Value
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1R
56-60
Lovibond 1"
6Y-2R
59
Lovibond 1"
30Y-6R
45-55
Gardner
<5
Gardner
<6
Gardner
<8
Gardner
<6
Gardner
<6
-14
Gardner
<5
-12
Gardner
<8
Gardner
< 10
220
Lovibond 1"
10Y-2R
-9
< -6
35
Lovibond 1"
10Y-2.5R
Lovibond 1"
10Y-1.5R
-3
<0
49
Gardner
<6
-9
-6
120
APHA
< 80
5-10
41
Lovibond 1"
10Y-2.5R
-3
<6
49
Lovibond 1"
5Y-0.6R
Lovibond 1"
10Y-1.5R
Lovibond 1"
5Y-0.6R
Lovibond 1"
10Y-2.5R
Gardner
<8
Gardner
<8
21
23
1200
50-60
400
120
-10
160
21
190
< 10
26-28
< 20
54
55
39-42
18
< 21
64
50-60
RADIA
stabilizers
Radiasurf and Radiamuls monoglycerides are auxiliary emulsifiers in many creams and
lotions. They increase product stability and prevent coalescence and creaming. They also
impart body, opacity, emolliency, smoothness to w/o and o/w emulsions. Radiamuls 2901
is a more powerful w/o emulsifier than the other monoglycerides. Radiamuls 2902 and
Radiasurf 7318 will act as superfatting agents in shower and bath products.
Table 7 / stabilizers
HLB
ACID VALUE,
TRADE NAME
INCI NAME
PHYSICAL FORM
Radiasurf 7146
Glyceryl hydroxystearate
flakes, powder
Radiasurf 7908
flakes, powder
5,2
<1
Radiamuls 2150
liquid
2.7
<3
Radiamuls 2902
liquid
3.5
<4
Radiasurf 7143
flakes, powder
<2
Radiasurf 7343
flakes, powder
<3
Radiasurf 7142
flakes, powder
3.2
<2
Radiamuls 2643
flakes, powder
3.3
<1
Radiamuls 2910K
powder
4.8
<3
Radiamuls 2931
flakes, powder
20-40
Radiamuls 2950
flakes, powder
Radiasurf 7318
liquid
11
<1
Radiasurf 7174
Pentaerythrityl stearate
flakes, powder
2.3
<2
mg KOH/g
<3
<5
25
COLOR
IODINE VALUE,
CLOUD POINT,
MELTING POINT,
VISCOSITY AT 40C,
g l 2/100g
mm 2/s
METHOD
VALUE
<5
Lovibond 1
10Y-2.5R
64-70
<1
Lovibond 1
15Y-1R
50-60
75-85
Lovibond 1"
15Y-3R
80-110
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1R
25
<2
Lovibond 5 1/4"
15Y-2.5R
54-64
<3
Lovibond 5 1/4"
15Y-2.5R
54-64
<2
Lovibond 1"
15Y-2.5R
58
<2
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1R
58-60
<3
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1R
63-69
<1
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1.5R
55-62
<2
Lovibond 1"
10Y-2.5R
45-55
<5
APHA
80
<1
Lovibond 1"
5Y-1R
<15
140
<0
50-54
140
RADIA
ISOSTEARIC ACID
& DERIVATIVES
INCI NAME
interfacial tension
(vs water@RT), mN/m
Radia 0908
Isostearic acid
14.3
70
Radia 0909
Isostearic acid
14.3
70
Radia 1980
Isostearyl alcohol
14.7
57
Radia 7181
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
21
338
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
10
167
Radia 7380
Trimethylolpropane triisostearate
26
207
Radia 7739
Isopropyl isostearate
17.5
17.7
Radia 7687
TRADE NAME
INCI NAME
HLB
Radia 7758
Sorbitan isostearate
4.3
Radia 7447
PEG-8 isostearate
9.5
Radia 7373
Triisostearin
3,5
TRADE NAME
Emollients
94
Surfactants
167
Isostearic acid is derived from natural oils and differentiated from many other branched fatty
acids by its methyl-branching. These kind of methyl-branched fatty acids and alcohols are often
found in nature as protection for aquatic birds whom use these waxes to keep the feathers in
optimal condition and be protected against climatic conditions. The branched isostearic esters
are known as liquid lipids and are widely used in cosmetic and personal wash applications where
they provide good spreading, non-tacky and pleasant skin feel. An important advantage of using
the isostearic acid and derivatives over the corresponding oleic acid and derivatives is the low
iodine value, due to the absence of the unsaturation. This guarantees oxidative stability and thus
the usage in eg perfume and preservative free systems without concern for rancidity.
applications
27
properties
Rich emollient, water resistant, good lubrication, film forming, hardly any migration,
excellent dispersing medium for Tio2/ZnO pigments, substantive.
Recommended for high solids systems.
Provides a high gloss film, which resists rub-off and helps reduce drag on application.
Moisturising creams and lotions, sun care, protective creams, baby care,
bath oil, make up, eye make-up, night care, hydro-alcohol formulations,
liquid personal wash, shaving creams.
Rich non tacky emollient, can also be added as very substantive emollient.
Refattening emollient.
Moisturising creams and lotions, sun care, protective creams, shaving creams,
antipersperant, deo, baby care, bath oil, make up.
applications
properties
TRADE NAME
Behenic acid
Radiacid 0560
Butyl stearate
Radia 7752
Plasticiser in nail varnish and styling aids. Solvent for lipophylic actives and dyestuffs.
Superfatting agent. Used in skincare, lipsticks, nailvarnishes and removers, hairsprays and
other styling aids.
Radia 7104
Radia 7101
MCT, moisturising, soft skinfeel, excellent spreading properties. Forming a skin barrier
gives less loss of water, stable , no odour, no colour, solubility, no irritations,
good for eye products, replacement mineral oil, non fatting, non occlusive,
soft good solvent, good dispersing medium. Lipstick, make-up, foundations, blushers,
perfumes, moisturisers, and many others.
Cetyl palmitate
Radia 7500
Adjusting agent for consistency of creams and hair treatments. Pearlescing agent.
Decyl oleate
Radia 7336
Soft fatting, non-occlusive, conditioning feel. Lubricant, castor oil alternative, alternative
for veg.oils. Pigments dispersability. Reduce tackiness and lighten the feeling of heavier
emollients. Dry non-greasy.
Ethylhexyl cocoate
Radia 7722
Glyceryl hydroxystearate
Radiasurf 7146
Ethylhexyl palmitate
Radia 7779
Excellent moisturiser with low comedogenicity. Branched chain, light non-greasy oil.
Easy spreading, non-occlusive soft emollient, replacer of mineral oil.
Highly recommended for suncare as pigment wetter and dispersant agent,
velvety structure on ther skin after spreading.
Ethylhexyl stearate
Radia 7772
Radia 2140
Radia 7908
Radiamuls 2150
Radiamuls 2902
Radiasurf 7143
Radiasurf 7343
Radiamuls 2643
Radiasurf 7142
Radiamuls 2901
Radiamuls 2931
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a PEG-free emulsifier and is especially useful for the
prevention of phototoxical effects in sun care products and in products which are exposed
to sunlight. The high melting point leads to extra thermo-stable products.
Radiamuls 2932
Radiamuls 2950
Radiasurf 7141
Glycol distearate
Radia 7268
Isoamyl laurate
Radia 7750
A polar oil that shows very good solvating power for commonly used UV-filters. Excellent ability
to disperse pigments, an ideal choice for colour cosmetics or as a basic oil in skin care products.
Improves the spreadability of formulations. Its silicon like sensorial profile and excellent skin
compatibilty makes it also perfectly suitable for baby care or cleansing formulations.
Isoamyl oleate
Radia 7654
Improves the spreadability of formulations. Its silicon like sensorial profile and excellent
skin compatibilty makes it also perfectly suitable for baby care or cleansing formulations.
Isopropyl isostearate
Radia 7739
Light textured emollient with low occlusivity and good permeation and spreadibility.
Isopropyl myristate
Radia 7730
Isopropyl palmitate
Radia 7732
Excellent spreader. Non occlucive, low viscous, light skinfeel, dry afterfeel. Odourless,
colourless co-solvent. High migration on the skin. Suitable for all cosmetic applications.
Universal emollient and good compatibility with other ingredients.
Isostearic acid
Radiacid 0908
Isostearic acid
Radia 0909
Isostearyl alcohol
Radia 1980
Radia 7688
GML provide a strong self-preservation activity. GML promote the penetration of actives
through the skin. GML create excellent stability in emulsions as surfactant.
O/W emulsifier.
Rich emollient, lubricating, thickener, dispersing medium for active ingredients and
pigment. Applicable in moisturising creams and lotions, shaving creams, antipersperant,
deo, baby care, bath foam, make up.
INCI NAME
TRADE NAME
PEG-10 diisostearate
Radiasurf 7447
PEG-10 dioleate
Radiasurf 7443
PEG-10 diricinoleate
Radiasurf 7445
PEG-10 laurate
Radiasurf 7423
PEG-10 oleate
Radiasurf 7403
PEG-10 stearate
Radiasurf 7473
PEG-15 dioleate
Radiasurf 7444
PEG-15 distearate
Radiasurf 7454
PEG-15 oleate
Radiasurf 7404
PEG-37 monostearate
Radiasurf 7417
PEG-5 oleate
Radiasurf 7402
Radiasurf 7318
Radia 7178
Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate
Radia 7176
Has a pleasant non-tacky waxy afterfeel. It exerts a thickening effect on esters and hydrocarbon oils. Enhances gloss and consistency of cosmetic creams and stick products.
Polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate
Radiamuls 2253
Powerful W/O emulsifier for polar oils, suitable for emulsions with low viscosity.
Polyglycerol-3 stearate
Radiamuls 2248
Non-ionic, Polyglycerol based emulsifier for O/W emulsions. Good liquid crystal promoting
properties. Provides excellent stabilisation in emulsion products. HLB 9.
Polysorbate 20
Radiasurf 7137
Mild, nonionic liquid surfactant for hair and skin cleansing products.
Solubiliser for lipophilic substances. Hydrophylic emulsifier for O/W emulsions.
Polysorbate 60
Radiasurf 7147
Polysorbate 80
Radiamuls 2157
Radia 7208
Non- oily feel, light smooth afterfeel, good spreading and penetration properties, solvent.
Radiasurf 7201
Radiamuls 2990
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a co-emulsifier and stabilization agent for foams which is
useful for a wide range of cosmetics.
Due to its antimicrobial activity it is also a deodorant ingredient.
Sorbitan isostearate
Radiasurf 7758
A saturated branched chain ester, is oxidation stable, stable in colour and odour, emulsifier,
wetting and dispersing agent. W/O emulsifier for protective, baby care and general purpose emollient creams. Decorative, suncare products.
Sorbitan laurate
Radiasurf 7125
Most hydrophilic sorbitan ester of the Oleon range. Soluble in many fatty compositions and
solvents. Acts as co-emulsifier in O/W.
Sorbitan oleate
Radiamuls 2155
Nonionic emulsifier for the formulation of W/O emulsion. Co-emulsifier for O/W emulsions.
Suitable for skin care creams and lotions, hand creams and sun care products.
Based on vegatable raw materials.
Sorbitan stearate
Radiasurf 7145
Nonionic emulsifier for the formulation of W/O emulsion. Co-emulsifier for O/W emulsions.
Suitable for skin care creams and lotions, hand creams and sun care products.
Sorbitan trioleate
Radiasurf 7755
Nonionic emulsifier for the formulation of W/O emulsion. Co-emulsifier for O/W emulsions.
Suitable for skin care creams and lotions, hand creams and sun care products.
Based on vegatable raw materials.
Stearyl stearate
Radia 7501
Tribehenin
Radia 7515
Wax, used in sticks to improve pay-off and gloss and impart a pleasant afterfeel.
Also used as a suspending and thickening agent.
Triheptanoin
Radiamuls 2375
Universal emollient with pleasant, dry texture and good resistance to oxidation compared
with natural oils.
Triisostearin
Radia 7373
Substantive and rich, non-tacky texture emollient with good dispersing property for colorings. Suitable for lipstick and cream. Ideal co-emulsifier in O/W emulsions and emulsifier
for W/O emulsions. Recommended for cold process.
Trimethylolpropane triisostearate
Radia 7380
Substantive and rich, film-forming emollient with high dipersing property for powders.
Suitable for lipstick, foundation and hair-care.
Triolein
Radia 7363
O/W emulsifiers. High molecular weight members are also used as viscosity builders
in detergents systems. Can be used for melting point control. Electrolyte tolerant and
suitable for use in antiperspirants. The dioleates and the diisostearates are suitable for
microemulsions whilst the stearates are useful in skin creams and lotions.
COMPOSITION
OF NATURAL
FATS & OILS
Table 11 / composition of natural fats & oils
Saturated Acids
C24
C14:1
C16:1
10
44
53
13
19
11
Palmkernel oil
0.5
45
56
13
18
12
Palm oil
0.5
43
48
0.5
Cottonseed oil
0.5
20
23
Olive oil
16
Groundnut oil
12
low erucic
high erucic
0.5
1.5
12
Soybean oil
11
Sunflower oil
0.5
0.5
Safflower oil
Linseed oil
Castor oil
10
14
Rapeseed oil
Corn oil
Grapeseed oil
0.5
1.5
Tall oil
min
min
Coconut oil
min
max
C22
min
C20
max
C18
max
C16
max
C14
max
C12
min
C10
max
C8
min
C6
max
Palmitoleic
min
Myristoleic
max
Lignoceric
min
Behenic
max
Arachidic
min
Stearic
max
Palmitic
min
Myristic
max
Lauric
min
Capric
max
Caprylic
min
Caproic
Tallow
20
30
12
19
Lard
25
30
10
18
Fish oil
10
10
15
31
NATURAL
FATS
AND OILS
Unsaturated Acids
mg KOH/g
264
20
26
10
19
14
23
245
255
22
28
35
40
11
50
55
195
205
33
39
23
35
42
54
100
115
192
200
30
36
65
85
15
82
90
190
195
17
26
40
56
20
35
85
100
185
192
26
32
50
65
18
28
14
100
120
185
198
15
25
15
30
60
11
25
12
91
108
170
185
15
23
19
49
34
62
115
125
188
195
15
20
20
30
43
56
14
125
140
190
195
20
24
25
32
54
70
120
135
187
194
17
20
15
25
62
73
123
140
189
197
13
20
70
75
0.5
140
150
188
194
16
17
18
22
13
17
45
60
170
200
189
195
18
21
82
90
177
187
35
47
165
170
175
185
85
38.5 53.5
90
min
250
min
11
min
min
min
min
min
min
max
g12 /100 g
min
C22:5
max
average C22:3
min
average C20:3
max
C18:3.0
Saponification Solidificavalue
tion point
min
Iodine value
max
Clupanadonic
max
max
C18:3
max
C18:2
max
C18:1.OH
Licanic
max
C22:1
Linoleic Linolenic
min
C20:1
max
C18:1
max
Ricinoleic
max
Erucic
max
Gadoleic
min
Oleic
35
46
10
48
58
195
200
40
45
40
52
12
65
68
188
198
33
46
14
20
10
160
190
190
195
25
35
15
25
10
25
TRADE NAME
INCI NAME
TRADE NAME
Behenic acid
Radiacid 0560
Oleic acid
Radiacid 0166
Butyl stearate
Radia 7752
Oleic acid
Radiacid 0215
Radia 7104
Oleic acid
Radiacid 0254
Radia 7101
Oleic acid
Radiacid 0294
Cetyl palmitate
Radia 7500
PEG-8 diisostearate
Radiasurf 7447
Coconut acid
Radiacid 0600
PEG-8 dioleate
Radiasurf 7443
Coconut acid
Radiacid 0620
PEG-8 diricinoleate
Radiasurf 7445
Coconut acid
Radiacid 0625
PEG-8 laurate
Radiasurf 7423
Coconut acid
Radiacid 0630
PEG-8 oleate
Radiasurf 7403
Coconut acid
Radiacid 0631
PEG-8 stearate
Radiasurf 7473
Decyl oleate
Radia 7336
PEG-12 dioleate
Radiasurf 7444
Ethylhexyl cocoate
Radia 7722
PEG-12 distearate
Radiasurf 7454
Ethylhexyl palmitate
Radia 7779
PEG-12 oleate
Radiasurf 7404
Ethylhexyl stearate
Radia 7772
PEG-4 oleate
Radiasurf 7402
Glycerin
4813
Radiasurf 7318
Glycerin
4823
Pentaerythrityl stearate
Radiasurf 7174
Glycerin
4818
Pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate
Radia 7514
Glycerin
4810
Radia 7178
Glycerin
4827
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
Radia 7181
Glycerin
4833
Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate
Radia 7176
Glycerin
4808
Polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate
Radiamuls 2253
Glyceryl hydroxystearate
Radiasurf 7146
Polyglycerol-3 stearate
Radiamuls 2248
Radiasurf 7908
Polysorbate 20
Radiasurf 7137
Radiamuls 2150
Polysorbate 60
Radiasurf 7147
Radiamuls 2902
Polysorbate 80
Radiamuls 2157
Radiasurf 7143
Radia 7208
Radiasurf 7343
Radiasurf 7201
Radiamuls 2643
Radiamuls 2990
Radiasurf 7142
Sorbitan isostearate
Radiasurf 7758
Radiamuls 2910K
Sorbitan laurate
Radiasurf 7125
Radiamuls 2931
Sorbitan oleate
Radiamuls 2155
Radiamuls 2932
Sorbitan stearate
Radiasurf 7145
Radiamuls 2950
Sorbitan trioleate
Radiasurf 7755
Radiasurf 7141
Stearic acid
Radiacid 0152
Glycol distearate
Radia 7268
Stearic acid
Radiacid 0414
Glycol stearate
Radia 7270
Stearic acid
Radiacid 0417
Isoamyl laurate
Radia 7750
Stearic acid
Radiacid 0419
Isopropyl isostearate
Radia 7739
Stearic acid
Radiacid 0421
Isopropyl myristate
Radia 7730
Stearic acid
Radiacid 0464
Isopropyl palmitate
Radia 7732
Stearyl stearate
Radia 7501
Isostearic acid
Radiacid 0908
Tribehenin
Radia 7515
Isostearic acid
Radiacid 0909
Triheptanoin
Radiamuls 2375
Isostearyl alcohol
Radia 1980
Triisostearin
Radia 7373
Radia 7687
Trimethylolpropane triisostearate
Radia 7380
Isoamyl laurate
Radia 7750
Triolein
Radia 7363
Isopropyl myristate
Radia 7730
SS
Oleon nv
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11
F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00
E: info@oleon.com
Sandefjord
Oleon Scandinavia AS
Framnesveien 57, PO Box 2051
3202 Sandefjord - Norway
T: + 47 33 44 88 00
F: + 47 33 44 88 99
E: info.northern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon R&D
Compigne
Novance Innovation
Rue les Rives de lOise
BP 20609 - Venette
60206 Compigne Cedex -France
T: +33 3 44 90 70 07
F: +33 3 44 90 70 70
Methods of Analysis
Acid value
AOCS Cd 3a-63
Iodine value
AOCS Cd 1-25
Hydroxyl value
AOCS Cd 13-60
Saponification value
AOCS Cd 3-25
AOCS Ce 1b-89
Melting point
AOCS Cc 3-25
Cloud point
AOCS Cc 6-25
Alpha-monoglycerides
Free glycerol
AOCS Ca 14-56
AOCS Ca 2e-84
Color, Lovibond
Color, Gardner
Color, Apha
Flash point, C
AOCS Cc 9a-48
Oleon UK Ltd
19 Wolsey Close
Worcester Park
Surrey KT4 7EF
United Kingdom
T: + 44 2083 379 111
F: + 44 2083 303 684
E: info.uk@oleon.com
Oleon Southern Europe Srl
Corso Podest 8/1
16128 Genova - Italy
T: + 39 01 05 39 98 14
F: + 39 01 05 41 931
E: info.southern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon Northern Europe
Framnesveien 57, PO Box 2051
3202 Sandefjord - Norway
T: + 47 33 44 88 00
F: + 47 33 44 88 99
E: info.northern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon Americas Inc
205 Bryce Circle Suite B
Simpsonville, SC 29681 - USA
T:+1 864 329 1887
F:+ 1 864 329 1897
E: info.americas@oleon.com
Oleon Asia-Pacific Sdn Bhd
Suite 28-08 Level 28, Centro
8 Jalan Batu Tiga Lama
41300 Klang
Selangor Darul Ehsan - Malaysia
T: + 60 3 3345 2782
F: + 60 3 3345 2758
E: info.asia-pacific@oleon.com
Oleon Benelux
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)9 341 11 54
F: +32 (0)9 341 12 62
E: info.benelux@oleon.com
oleon.com
PERSONAL CARE
Starting from natural, renewable raw materials, Oleon manufactures a broad range
of natural chemicals with varying characteristics to fit many application needs
and most demanding requirements. We offer renewable, environmental friendly,
and biodegradable ingredients for your processes: Oleon, a natural chemistry!
e
ar
lC
na
so
Pe
r
SM
ET
IC
Starting from natural, renewable raw materials, Oleon manufactures a broad range
of natural chemicals with varying characteristics to fit many application needs
and most demanding requirements. We offer renewable, environmental friendly,
and biodegradable ingredients for your processes: Oleon, a natural chemistry!
e
ar
lC
na
so
Pe
r
SM
ET
IC
SS
Oleon nv
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11
F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00
E: info@oleon.com
Sandefjord
Oleon Scandinavia AS
Framnesveien 57, PO Box 2051
3202 Sandefjord - Norway
T: + 47 33 44 88 00
F: + 47 33 44 88 99
E: info.northern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon R&D
Compigne
Novance Innovation
Rue les Rives de lOise
BP 20609 - Venette
60206 Compigne Cedex -France
T: +33 3 44 90 70 07
F: +33 3 44 90 70 70
Methods of Analysis
Acid value
AOCS Cd 3a-63
Iodine value
AOCS Cd 1-25
Hydroxyl value
AOCS Cd 13-60
Saponification value
AOCS Cd 3-25
AOCS Ce 1b-89
Melting point
AOCS Cc 3-25
Cloud point
AOCS Cc 6-25
Alpha-monoglycerides
Free glycerol
AOCS Ca 14-56
AOCS Ca 2e-84
Color, Lovibond
Color, Gardner
Color, Apha
Flash point, C
AOCS Cc 9a-48
Oleon UK Ltd
19 Wolsey Close
Worcester Park
Surrey KT4 7EF
United Kingdom
T: + 44 2083 379 111
F: + 44 2083 303 684
E: info.uk@oleon.com
Oleon Southern Europe Srl
Corso Podest 8/1
16128 Genova - Italy
T: + 39 01 05 39 98 14
F: + 39 01 05 41 931
E: info.southern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon Northern Europe
Framnesveien 57, PO Box 2051
3202 Sandefjord - Norway
T: + 47 33 44 88 00
F: + 47 33 44 88 99
E: info.northern-europe@oleon.com
Oleon Americas Inc
205 Bryce Circle Suite B
Simpsonville, SC 29681 - USA
T:+1 864 329 1887
F:+ 1 864 329 1897
E: info.americas@oleon.com
Oleon Asia-Pacific Sdn Bhd
Suite 28-08 Level 28, Centro
8 Jalan Batu Tiga Lama
41300 Klang
Selangor Darul Ehsan - Malaysia
T: + 60 3 3345 2782
F: + 60 3 3345 2758
E: info.asia-pacific@oleon.com
Oleon Benelux
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)9 341 11 54
F: +32 (0)9 341 12 62
E: info.benelux@oleon.com
oleon.com
PERSONAL CARE