C T Newton Travels and Discoveries in The Levant Vol 1 of 2

HIGH SCHOOL OF GLASGOW.
SESSI035r 18SS-S9.
$) 3
Irons.
The Hon. the LORD PROVOST, MAGISTRATES,

AND TOWN COONCIL.
(Eommilttt of iBanagemEnt.
The Hos. Sib JAMES LUMSDEX, Lord Provosi.

Wm. MTSwen, Esq., Dean of Guild.
William Collixs, Esq,
BiitiE Thos. Muerat.
Bailie Kobekt Neill.
Bailie Wm. Miller.
Wm. Kae Arthur,
Esq.
Jaues L. Lasq, Esq.

Jakes Saluon, Esq.
James Watso.v, Esq.
JAMES WATSON, Esq., Convener.

JAMES S.ALMOX, Esq., Sub-Convener.
MATHEMATICAL & COMMESCIAL DEPARTMENT.
(y]i4<^
Cprize.
Obtaineil by.
Fob proficiency, DILIGENCE, & GOOD CONDUCT,

DUEING the SESSION.
A.CiCiay^..Di^.MÛ..jU.iAj-JJ^MasUT.
UiQB &ceooL OF Olasoow,
>
TRAVELS
AND
DISCOVERIES IN THE LEVANT.
"Frontispieca
MAP OF
RIIODK8
Reduced
tVuin Admiralty (hart j\"lb67
<:
n'
#5*1.1
H R Htllemr Ruins
M KaMeJiavai Btuni
Ui/*Sro lith"totie pneen
TRAVELS & DISCOVERIES
IN
THE LEVANT.
C. T.
NEWTON,
M.A.
EEEPEB OF THE GBEEE AND ROMAN ANTIQUITIES, BRITISH UUSE0U.
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.
IN
G,
TWO VOLUMES. VOL.
DAY & SON, LIMITED,

GATE STREET, LONDON,
1865.
'[All rights reserved."]
W.C.
THE GETTY CENTER
PREFACE.
TN
-*-
tlie
second volume of the present work will be
found a popular account of
my
discoveries in
Asia Minor, abridged fi'om the larger work, entitled
"A
History of Discoveries at Halicarnassus, Cnidus,
and Branchidce."
The plans and

pany
this
London, 1862.
architectm'al palates
abridgment have,
in like
reduced from the plates in Vol.
I.
which accommanner, been

of the larger
work.
The
sculptures from the
Mausoleum
are illustrated
by three engraved plates repeated from Vol.
II.
of
the former work, and by eleven photographs fi-om
drawings
now
plate of the
for the first time published.
The
my
former
Map
of Caria, engraved for
work imder the supervision of the
late
Admiral
Washington, has been used in the present work by

the
kind
permission of Captain Richards,
Hydrographer
The
R.N.,
to the Admiralty.
position of Lagina, as noted by Lieut. Smith,
R.B., has been added to this Map,

C. T.
NEWTON.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Introduction
LETTER
Departure from England
I.
IMalta Ruins Krendi Roman

Patras Sarcophagus Vostitza
at
Tombs near Bengemma
Roman StatuesA
rri val at
Athens
II.
Athens
Acropolis Archaic Athene
Sculptiu-es in the The-
Warrior from Marathon Sepulchral Coins

Alexander the Great The Anii)hiaraion
My The Lions the Gateway
seium
of
IStelm
Inscriptions
there
at
cense
15
in.
Constantinople
First Impressions
tion of the City since
the
The
Walls
Depopula Ancient
Byzantine Empire
Sophia Museum of
Fragment from Frieze of Mausoleum Jaw
from Bronze Serpent Silver Plate with Figure of Diana
Collections of Coins Smyrna M. Ivanoff's Coins Arrival
Mosaics in Mosque of Kachreie
St.
at
St.
Irene
MytileneThe Pasha
37
IV.
Description
of
Mytilene
Character of
Morea A Gi-eek
virons
at
Ancient Remains at
Malea
Its
ancient
Features
The
En-
Roman Aqueduct
Fyrgos Therma; Paphila
Achlea Cape
the ancient
tlie
Inhabitants
Zeitin,
49
Vni
CONTENTS.
The Archbishop
of Mytilene
PAGE
A Greek BaptismThe Marble

Anecdote respecting
Theophanes The Greek
Chair of Potamo, son of Lesbonax
him
relating
Inscription
School
Inscrijation in
to
Church of
Therapon
St.
63
VI.
Turkish MejUs
Agriculture in Asia Minor

Process of
System of
British Consular Protection
Making
Oil
Cultivation
of the Olive
Amount Exported from Mji;ilene
73
VII.
Levantine Steamer Tour with Mr. Hughes Ayasso

Greek Hospitality Ascent of Mount Olympus Pyn-ha
Gulf of KaUoni Ancient Remains at Tern enos
Si
VIII.
containing
AcropolisGreek
from King Antigonos Scenery about Eresos Costume of
the Women Ancient Remains near Mesotopo Makra
a
Inscription,
Eresos
Marine Products in Gulf of Kalloni noticed by
letter
Aristotle...
93
IX.
BuildMy New House
the LevantTour
MytileneServants and Food
ing
Mandamatha Custom of
with two
the Greek Churches, derived from
embroidered work
antiquityInscription near Palaio Liman Ancient ReMolivo, the ancient
Anoikto Position of
mains
Methy mna Petra Agia Paraskeue Early
An-ival of Mr. J. E. Blunt
Style of
in
in
offering
Travellei-s
in
^Silgiros
at
Chi-istian
102
Chapel cut in the rock
X.
Nehad EffendiTijaret Mejlis Castle of

MytOene The Gatelusio Family Then- Coins Mosques
Robbers in Smyrna Installation of the
in the Castle
An-ival
of Ali
Archbishop of Mytilene
stantinople
as
Member
of the
Synod
at Con-
113
CONTENTS.
IX
XI.
Visit to Salonica and
tlie
Troad
PAGE
The IncantadasThe Arch
Relief of Pan and the NjTnphs at

Inscriptions on Spoons found Lampsacus
Inscription Dardanelles Mr.
HouseTour in
Latin
the Troad Hill near Bounarliashi
Inscriptions
the Emperors Claudius and Nero
Seven Granite Columns near Koushibashi Hellenic Fortress
atChigri Hot Springs
Lisgyar Temple of Apollo Sminthius Alexandria Troas
Roman Mosaics
Excavations on supposed
Ilium Novum Mr.
in Khani Tepe in Necropolis near the
of Ophryuium
Kemar Discovery of Greek Vases Singular Ordeal
of
Constantine
Gallipoli
at
Calvert's
C'liimenlai
relatiag to
at
Kalifetli
Calvert's
site
for
121
the Discovery of a Thief
XII.
First Impressions of
Rhodes
A Cassiote Feud
137
XIII.
Ancient Rhodes
Its
Town
The Head
the Present
Harbours and Arsenals
The
Fortifications
Description of
Amboise
Castello
Church of St. John

of the Dragon
Grand Master's Palace Street of the Knights Hospital
Domestic Architecture
Jewish
Convents
Mosques
Tower of De Naillac Mole
Quarter
Eastern Mole
Gate
Langues
Nicholas Posts of the
and Castle of
Tombstone of Thomas Newport Armoury Ancient
of Temples
Acropolis Stadium Inscriptions
Remains of Mole on Western Shore Probable Extension
Position of the
of the Ancient Harbours
Colossus Tomb near Symbulli Probable Extent of the
different
St.
Sites
in thLs direction
Ancient City on
146
this side
XIV.
Visit to Monastery of
Zambika
The Archimandrite
Nikan-
Costunie of the Rliodian Peasant Women Castle

Archangelo Koskino A Peasant's House Lindos Ware
dros
at
182
CONTENTS.
XV.
containing Decree
the People of Netteia Monolithos
Frescoes
Chapel Hellenic Tower Siana Hellenic
Tombs and Eemains Acropolis of Agios PhokasAncient
Polygonal Masonry Hellenic Eemains
BasHika
Agros
CasteUos Embonas Meaning of
Name
Villa Nova Character of the Rhodian Peasantry The
and Customs
Popular
My
Journey to Lindoa The Castle The

Inscriptions
Apolakkia Inscription
Muleteer Panga
Ancient Acropolis
of
in
at
at
at
this
Superstitious
Priests
191
XVI.
The Castle Inscription

Ismael PashaEnglish Consul Scio time
of Henry VIII. Greek Boatmen Patmos My
factory Interview with the Primates The Libraiy The
Monks The Monastery Calymnos Ancient Inscriptions
there Cos Antiquities Coin of Termera Fountain of
Cruise with Mr. Finlay to Scio
on a Gun
at
ia
imsatis-
Burinna
214
XVII.
Rhodes AlfermaApollona FimdokliDemelia
Salakko Agios Elias Kappi Kalavarda Gi-eek
Vases Fanes Hellenic Tombs near these Villages
Theologcs Sepulchral
Temple of Apollo Erethimios
Tour
in
at
Relief at Villa
Nova Kremasto
23:i
XVIII.
Sampson A
Antimachia
Acropolis Ancient Remains
Visit to Cos in the
of Charmylos
Greek
ing Letter from
Tiu-kish Trial
Inscriptions
Emperor Tiberius
PyliTomb
Kephalas
Inscription contain-
240
_.
XIX.
Arrival of Lord Carlisle in the Firebrand
Dr. McCraith
to
Calymnos
Diseases Prevalent
in
Lord C.'s lUness

Rhodes Second Visit
248
CONTENTS.
XI
XX.
Preparations for
lAOB
War
with Russia
Country Sermon
Anecdote of a former Pasha of Rhodes
253
XXI.
Phileremo, the Acropolis of lalysos Gothic Build Frescoes Remains of Hellenic

Pro-
Trianda
ings
Fortifications
Town
bable Site of the

Superstition
of the
of lalysos Arrival of
M. Berg
Rhodians respecting Portraits
De-
parture for England
257
XXII.
Return to Turkey vid Athens Second Visit to the Amphiaraion
The Ecole Franqaise at AthensA Cruise in the
Leander Syra Hostility of the Greeks to the Latin
Population
Pii-ates
Return
to
Mytileue
Comparison of
the Condition of Society there and at Rliodes
My Turkish
Schoolmaster
261
XXIII.
Cruise to Tenedos with Ismael Pasha
Tenedos
Tlie
Wine Trade
Imports
His Character
and Exports of the
Island
267
XXIV.
The Courban Bairam
A Greek Funeral
274
XXV.
Departure for CaljTunos
Smyrna Discovery of Roman

The British Hospital
Remains near Caravan Bridge
280
XXVI.
Rhodes
Calymnos Necropolis Excavations
in
Tombs
283
XXVII.
Calymniote Divers
The
Population of Caljnnnos
Sponge Trade
Character
of the
291
XU
CONTENTS.
XXVIII.
Excavations on an Acropolis
on the Site of the Temple of
Inscription
a Trial BuUclings near
the Temple Summaiy of Inscriptions found
Calj-mnos
Argos Linari Telendos Vathy
Apollo
relating
to
in
299
XXIX.
Discovery Bronze ReliefDeparture

BudrumDiscovery Lions
Mau-
Manoli the Cassiote
of
from Calymnos
of
soleum in the Walls of the Castle
fi'om
320
APPENDIX.
Tour in Lycia by Mr D. E. Colnaghi
Tour in Mytilene by the same
347
Notes
351
337
LIST OF PLATES.
Frontispiece.
ISIap of
Rhodes
To/ace Page
Plate.
1.
Fragment of Frieze of Mausoleum

Constantinople, from a
2.
Map
3.
Roman
Drawing
l)y
in tlie
Mrs. C.
Museum at
T. Newtox
49
of Mytilene
W.
Etched by
Aqueduct, Mytilene.
Severn,
from a Photogi-aph by D. E. Colnaghi

4.
Plan of
5.
View
W.
G.
Town
of
of
58
149
Rhodes
Rhodes overlooking the harbour.
Etched by
Severn, fi-om a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi...
Rhodes.
D'Amboise Gate.
W.
Etched by
Rhodes.
Fosse D'Amboise
Gate.
151
Aquatint by
W.
J.
Alais, from a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi

8.
Rhodes.
W.
9.
J.
Rhodes.
Arch near Church of
St.
John.
Aquatint by
Aquatint by "W.
de France.
Alais, from a Photogi-aph by D. E.

10.
151
Alais, from a Photogi-aph by D. E. Colnaghi...
Auberge
Rhodes. Street
of Knights.
Etched by
W.
Rhodes.
Tower of De
Naillac.
The Archimandi-ite Nikandros.

from a Drawing bv Mrs. C. T.
155
Severn,
158
Etched by A. Severn,
from a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi

12.
152
J.
Colnaghi
from a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi

11.
149
Severn, from
a Photogiaph by D. E. Colnaghi
7.
44
176
Etched by A. Severn,
Newton
182
LIST OF PLATES.
XIV
To face Page
Flate.
13.
Rhodes.
J.
Interior of Peasant's house.
Aquatint by
W.
Alais, from a Drawing by A. Beeg
14. Rhodes.
Lindos.
W.
Aquatint by
J.
189
Alais, from a
Drawing by A. Berg
15.
Boreas and Oreitliyia.
193
Photogi'aphed by F. Bedford,
from a Drawing by Mrs.

16.
Myi-a.
Rock
Tomb.
C. T.
Newton
Etched by
Photogi-aph by D. E. Colnaghi
W.
Severn,
330
i-om a
343
LIST OF WOODCUTS.
PAOE
1
Fa9ade of Rock-cut Chapel, Agia Paraskeue
112
2.
Giwmd
112
3.
Monogram
4. 5.
Plan of same
in Castle of Mytilene
Silver Coins attributed to
115
Hekatommos
226
6.
Silver Coin of Termei-a
228
7.
Angle of Pediment, Temple of Apollo, Calymna
308
8.
Ground Plan
309
9.
View
of Building,
of Lion in
Wall of
iiic?.
Castle,
Budrum
335
ERRATA.
Page
25, line 17, for "Eileithya" reml " Eileithpa."

31, /or " Ampliiaraia
29,
,,
73,
,,
\-i
91,
,,
2i,
ybr "
99,
/or "Ereso"
"'
read "Amphiaraia.
for "Therapia" read "Therapon."

TrpoaoTEtoV "
read " wpodurcwi:"
reatf "Eresos."
13,
123,
27,/or"Oe"read""Oc."
28,
127,
,,
7,
221,
,,
244,
26, /or
248,
13,
/or "Phatanista"
257,
25,
ybr " Rhoda Vecchia" read " Rodi Veccliio."
for "^(^[tji" read " jikjij."

yor " BoiuTiarbaslii " read " Bounarbashi."
IG, y'or
"in
hLs
"of"
favour" read "in favour."
reac/
"on."
recK^ "Platanista."
TRAVELS
AND
DISCOVERIES IN THE LEVANT.
INTRODUCTION.
TN February,
-L
1852, having been recently appointed
by Lord Granville
to
the Vice-Consulship
Mytilene, I visited the Levant for the
time.
first
of
In
receiving this appointment from the Foreign Office,

I was, at the
same
time, instructed to use such
opportunities as presented themselves for the acquisition
of antiquities for the British
with this
ol^ject
Museum, and
to extend my
my Vice-Consulship
being granted me for
was authorized
researches beyond the limits of
a small annual allowance
travelling expenses.
In the volume
now
offered to the public I have
recorded the researches and observations during a

residence in the Levant of seven years, from 1852 to
1859.
The
series of letters in
which the work
were for the most part written

the date which they bear.
is
arranged,
in the Levant,
Much new
at
matter has,
however, been inserted in various parts of the text,
and these additions have been thrown,
for the sake
of uniformity, into the form of letters.
Perhaps a
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
more united and harmonious composition could have

been produced by recasting
letters into
tlie
whole of the original
one continuous narrative, than by such an
amalgamation as I have attempted

of a traveller's
first
freshness, will, in
but the record
impressions, in their original
most
cases,
interest the public
more than any subsequent composition which may

be distilled, in the laboratory of his memory, out
of confused and faded images.
In the series of Letters I have inserted several

fi'om
my
friend
H.M. Consul
in 1852,
I
Mr. Dominic
Ellis
at Bastia, w4io left
Colnaghi,
now
England with
me
and of whose companionship and assistance
had the advantage during the greater part of
sojourn in the Levant.
my
TUP
TX
r.l'.VA.VT.
LKTTKll
I.
Athens, JIarch
We
Southampton on the 17th
left
20, 1852.
February,
1852, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's

steamer " Montrose," from which we were transferred at Gibraltar to the " Eipon,"
way
to Alexandria with the Indian
As
mails.
then on her
and Australian
I passed thi'ough the Straits for the first
time and saw the blue expanse of the Mediterranean
away
stretching far
before me, I
interest of
my
menced.
had made
highway
of
felt
that the true
voyage had there and then com-
my
navigation
first
step on that ancient
which
of
the
Pillars
of
Hercules were so long the extreme western boun-
My
dary.
destination
was that Ionian coast whence,
century before the Christian era, issued
in the 7th
forth those enterprising mariners
who
the Greeks traversed the length
of the
among
first
Mediter-
ranean and boldly competed with Phoenician traders

in tlie
ports of Spain.
these
early
Odyssean
me
As, sailing on the track of
adventurers,
with fresh hope and energy.
to one of the old
a Tartessus in
cherislicd
seemed
thought
voyages, the recollection
to
over
seemed
their
to inspire
compared myself
Phocêan mariners seeking for
unknown Western
visions
of
ripen
into
waters, and long

the
Levant
discoveries
in
presentiment of
positive
B 2
success as
advanced on
my way
towards that
land of promise.
We
arrived at Malta
a very prosperous
after
voyage, and were most kindly welcomed by
my
old
friends Captains Graves and Spratt, who took a
warm
interest in
my
and gave
projects,
me much
valuable information respecting that Levantine world

in
which I was about to establish myself, and to
which I was as yet an utter stranger.
As we had
to wait several days at ]\Ialta for a
steamer to Patras, I took the opportunity of visiting

the curious ruins at Krendi, which are generally
These ruins
considered to be of Phoenician origin.
are situated on the south coast of Malta, opposite

to a small island called
They
Filfile.
consist of
two
groups of enclosures formed by masses of stones
ranged upright
like a paling, over
placed horizontally.
1
5 to 20 feet high.
which others are
Some of these stones

The whole have been
are from
quarried
out of the tertiary calcareous rock on which the

enclosures are built.
The
principal group consists
of tliree large elliptical enclosures, set obliquely to
which are three smaller enclosures,

this is
situated on higher
group, which
is
also elliptical
ground than the other
nearer the sea.
Within the outer enclosures are inner walls, in
which there
is
an approximation to regular masonry.
The lower part of these inner
walls
is
composed of
uprights about six feet in height, above which large

blocks are built into regular horizontal courses.
the principal tem])le are two
which the central enclosure
is
doorways,
In
through
approached fi-om the
IN THE LEVANT.
east.
These have jambs, ornamented with small
marks of
holes, evidently drilled with a screw, the
the
worm
The angles
being visible in each hole.
of the jambs are cut
away
so as to form a kind
of pilaster, a slight projection in the upper part of
which serves to indicate a
The jambs of
capital.
the doorways, the lintels, and the threshold-stones,
are pierced with holes, showing the position of the
The irregular
hinges and bolts of the doors.
ellipses
formed by these walls terminate at either end

kind of apse
inwards as
cal roof,
the inner
in several of these apses
wall remains to a considerable height,

as if
it rises,
formed
it
in a
and bends
had converged
to a coni-
approaching horizontal courses
l)y
Within the apses are no remains at
of masonry.
have been
might
present of
fallen
expected
these recesses had been covered over
if
vaulting,
but the disappearance of
may be accounted
for
as
all
by the
such evidence
i.
sifu
fact that these ruins
have been cleared out within a recent
i)eriod.
The inner walls of these ellipses are pierced with

number
a
of square apertures cut out of the large
blocks, some of which seem intended to admit light
or sound, like the openings in Gothic churches to
which ecclesiologists have given the name hagioscope.

Others communicate with small chambers
like
cup-
boards, cut in the rock.
Within the enclosures are several
altars,
by large slabs of stone set upon short

very
tall
formed
pillars.
One
piece of rock towers above these enclosures.
Steps cut in the rock lead up to the top,

a hollow, as
if
for a
man
to stand in.
in
which
Perhaps
is
this
TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
isolated I'ock served as a watch-tower or place for

signals.
The lower group

upper one, but has
is
of smaller extent than the
its
inner walls, doorways, and
In both groups the
apertures better preserved.
space enclosed within the walls

a rude
concrete,
is
floored over with
composed of gravel and small
pieces of stone.
In the upper group
form
like
which, within
found a block of stone in
Roman
a square
on each face of
altar,
an oblong panel,
is
representing a tree in a basket.

stone
another, on which
is
is
rude
relief
Close by this
carved a rude spiral or
In the upper group were also found seven
volute.
small female figures, cut out of Maltese stone, a

skull,
a number of
shaped
are
like
now
from
human
women's
in. to 1
The
breasts.
preserved in the
ft.
bones, and some stones,
ft.
Museum
at Malta, range
Four are
in. in height.^
Two
entirely nude, the others draped.
The heads
are broken away.
which
figures,
are seated.
The proportions and

The
execution of these figures are alike barbarous.
enormous hips and
breasts,
and bulging
outlines,
suggest the notion that they are of African origin.
At any
rate the type represented
is
imlike that of
any of the races of the ancient world, so
know them
far as
we
throuo;h art.
In both groups of enclosures great quantities of

broken pottery have been found.
Having obtained
authority from the Governor, Sir William Reid, to
remove
it
this pottery to the
Museum
at Malta,
where
might be properly cleaned and examined, I trans-
ported two cartloads of
it,
and removed
at the
same
IN
LEVANT.
TJIK
time the curious altar with a tree on
it,
wliich the
hand of the Britisli sightseer had already begun to chip and deface.
The pottery I found to be of several kinds black
ware of a heavy, brittle kind, made of black earth,
sacrilegious
and ornamented with rude rows

indented triangular marks
brittle
and more polished
and
ware had incised
di'ab
or
finer black ware, less
coarse red ware, and
Some
coarse and fine drab ware.
of notches
of the finer black
pattei'ns of the rudest
kind.
All the varieties seem to have been baked
in the
fire,
and have a polished
surface.
sent
some specimens to the British Museum. Pottery

somewhat similar in character has been found in the
island of Jersey.
Dr. Henry Barth, the well-known African explorer,
has given a detailed description and a plan of these
remains
1848.^
were
in
Gerhard's " Archaologische Zeitung" for
He
supposes that both groups of enclosures
hy])fethral temples, enclosed within a
peribolus wall, of which he found
some
common
traces.
According to his plan, the entry into the upper

temple
is
from the east
a doorway opposite to this
entry leads into the middle chamber.
chamber he found an aperture
In the eastern
in the wall,
cating with a small outer chamber
communi-
through
this hole
he supposes that oracles were delivered by the priests.

In the
museum
at
Malta
is
a conical stone, three feet
high, resembling in form the well-known symbol of
Aphrodite, placed in her temples at Paphos and

elsewhere.'^
been found
temple
This stone. Dr. Barth states to have

in the
most eastern chamber of the upper
The
enclosures at Krendi are very similar to the
remains at Gozo, known by the name, Torre dei
but these latter present certain differences
Giganti
in plan,
which have been carefully noted by Dr. Barth.
Two heads
fi-om female figures discovered within the
enclosures at Gozo, have been published by Delia
Marmora, and seem
to be
On
those at Krendi.*
no
less
the whole,
it
barbarous than
may, I think, be
inferred that the remains in both islands are the
work of some
lization
race
much lower
in
than the Phoenicians as
ancient history.
am
the scale of civi-
we know them
disposed to regard these
temples as the work of some indigenous

liavino;
in
peojile,
who
been broug-ht into contact with Phoenician
some time or other, imbibed from this

source some scanty tradition of the arts of civilisettlers at
zation
whether, however, these remains should
be assigned to a remote or to a late period of
pagan antiquity, can only be determined by further

evidence.
The day before
I left Malta,
Mr. Lushington, the
me
chief Secretaiy of the Government, invited
to
be present at the opening of some tombs, at a place

called Santi, near
Bengemma.
These are
the solid rock, on the slope of a
hill
all
cut in
facing the
commanding a beautiful view of the sea.

Our party was accompanied by a Maltese gentleman.
Dr. Onofrio, who found a tomb when required, with
north, and
as
much
sagacity as a pointer finds a partridge.
Bach tomb
in the rock,
as
is
entered by an oblong aperture cut
about six feet deep and twice as broad
an English grave, in the side of which
is
a flight
IN THE LEVANT.
At
of steps.
the bottom of tliese
9
is
a square open-
ing large enough to admit easily a man's body, which

leads to
a small chamber with
a curved
ceiling.
Each chamber contained one or more skeletons

on a
ledge,
and several
In one of the graves
vases.
the heads lay to the N.B., in another to the
The pottery was coarse and imvarnished,

colour,
and
Roman
is
laid
probably of the late
N.W.
of a drab
Roman
period.
coins are found in these tombs, and as I
was informed, Greek coins and vases
but I could
not verify this assertion, for everything at Malta
is
dispersed as soon as found, from the want of a well-
organized museum.
It is to
be regretted that these tombs are not
explored in a more
present,
when gay
manner than
systematic
meet to hold
parties
nics over the open grave
at
then" pic-
the pale ale and cham-
pagne corks contrasting strangely with the broken

vases, relics probably
this spot fifteen
We
left
" Medina,"
Malta
English
the
in
mail
and arrived at Patras
Here
half-savage
first
look
after
steamer
a very
saw a Greek town.

of the
with their shaggy capotes and white

quite in
held on
hundred years ago.
stormy passage.
The strange
of a funeral feast
harmony with the wild
inhabitants,
kilts,
seemed
desolate character
of the landscape, shut in by high mountains, which

at the time of om- visit
We
were covered with snow.
were most kindly received by the British Vice-
Consul, Mr. William
Wood, who has been engaged

Patras for some years.
in the currant trade at
He
took us to see a
fine
marble sarcophagus in
10
the garden of a
relief of eight
M.
On
Kritikos.
the front
naked boys, with the type of
is
Cvipid,
At one end of the sarcophagus are
but wingless.
Bellerophon, Pegasus, and the Chimsera;
at the
These sculp-
opposite end a female sphinx seated.
tures are executed in a better style than
is
generally
found on sarcophagi.
The bottom
inside
is
perforated with round holes,
five inches
above which
is
probably,
was
on
placed
a thin slab.
the perforations
this,
below being intended to drain
The body,
off all that
was
dis-
solved in the process of natural decay.
Having
lis
to wait for an Austrian steamer to take
we rode to see a castle at Rliion, the

which commands the narrowest point in
to Corinth,
Gibraltar
the gulf.
In this fortress were a number of prisoners, the
most determined cut-throats and bandits

Greece.
of which
They were kept
we
in cells,
could see them.
in
all
through the bars
Their eyes had a
ferocious glare, like those of wild beasts in a cage.
Two
sentinels
were pacing up and down with their
muskets loaded, ready to
fire in
case there was any
attempt to escape, and a cannon was placed so as to
command
the whole line of windows.
One
of these
brigands managed to escape two or three years ago,
and afterwards committed
when he was again
tried
foiu'teen
murders,
and
and condemned, threatened
the judge and jury with death. "\Yhen he was taken to

execution, he
managed
to conceal a small knife, with
which he cut his cords, and then defied the executioner.
It
happened,
however, that among the
THE LF.VAXT.
IX
guard present were
had
and they rushed
killed,
their swords
till
and stabbed him with
work of
the law with a long-
was assured that such scenes are by no
means uncommon
As
in
whose brother he
he was disabled, when the execu-
tioner finished the

knife.
soldiers
tnô
11
at executions at Patras.
the Austrian
steamer did not come
we
in,
proceeded to Vostitza in a small English steamer,
which having
to tack
twelve hours for this
against a head-wind, took

little
On
voyage.
landing
we were very kindly received by a

Greek agent of Mr. Wood, to whom I had a letter
At this port a large jjortion of
of introduction.
Vostitza
at
currants
the
are
we saw on our
shipped
for
exportation,
arrival the materials
future plum -pudding rolling
down
of
and
many
The currant merchants here complain
casks.
present that the supply of currants
demand.
for the
to the beach in
is
at
too abundant
It appears that the growers of
currants have adopted the plan of cutting rings in

the bark of the tree, just below the bunches, by
which process a greater quantity, but an

quality of
The
fi'uit, is
produced.
scenery here was very grand
mountains hemmed us
and
at Patras the
in
snow-capped
on every side
both here
ground near the shore has been
convulsed by earthquakes into
rent and
forms.
fantastic
inferior
The market-place
strange
presented
strange appearance to our civilized eyes, and
we
gazed with wonder on the wild-looking shepherds'

dogs
a pile
the
men
in their
shaggy dresses, seated on
of baggage on the top
of small mountain
TKAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
12
ponies
women
the
standing bare-legged under a
gigantic plane tree, trampling on and bleaching the

linen in the fresh springs which burst forth from
the shore close to the sea.
This primitive
mode
of
washing seems unchanged from the time of Nausicaa.
The
more than 40
plane-tree measures
Vostitza
is
the site of the ancient
when Pausanias
of temples
nearly
statues,
much
It
is
Georgios, I
which,
number
trace of
which
Leake sup-
of the arcliitecture was of brick,
as the fields near the
one of
all
probable, as
town are strewn with
ments of brick and painted

of
^gium,
visited Greece, contained a
and
has disappeared.
poses, that
feet in girth.
frag-
In the house
tile.
Wood's agents, called Aristides

saw two fine statues of white marble,
Mr.
and some fragments of a
third,
attached to the house.
One
found in the garden

of these statues ap-
peared to be a Mercury, very similar to the celebrated
one in the Vatican
the other a female figure, with
a head-dress like that of the younger Faustina, pro-
bably an empress in the character of some goddess.
These statues are well preserved and are

specimens of art of the
Roman
period.
good
Of
the
third figure there remain only the head and the

right hand, which has held a small vase.
Some
years ago a tessellated pavement was found
in the town, but is
now
nearly destroyed.
little
to the east of Vostitza, in a field overlooking the

sea,
I noticed part of a fluted
column and some
remains of buildings which had just been dug up

near them was a piece of massive wall.
was of travertine covered with
stucco.
The column
IN THE LEVANT.
After
Vostitza
Avaitino: at
was due, finding that
it
13
the Austrian steamer
till
we took
did not arrive,
Greek guide and horses, and rode along the coast to

Corinth
there
and
The scenery was

Along the coast
two days.
this occujDied
extremely wild
beautiful.
a high mountain-range, sometimes over-
is
hanging the
sometimes leaving a narrow strip
sea,
of alluvial shore, covered with arlnitus and other
The road
shrul)s.
road in England
is
not what would be called a
it is
either a sheep-track or a goat-
according to the nature of the country
track,
traverses
it
sometimes winding along the precipitous
edge of the high
sometimes disappearing in
cliffs,
brushwood and shino-le below. Bridges theiê

are none, and rivers can only be crossed when in
the
a fordable
state
fortunately
they are not very
Along these wild tracks the
deep.
horses clatter in a long
behind another
little
Greek
always following one
file,
they are very sure-footed, rather
mulish in temper, but sometimes indulge in a wonderful gallop, ventre a terre.
Being shod with shoes
which cover nearly the entire
foot,
they bear being
along rough ground better than English
rattled
horses.
After the
day's journey
first
we made our
acquaintance with a Greek khan.

hostel
may be
first
This primitive
described as a large bare apartment
occupying the whole interior of the house, which

has no
second story.
an arch of masonry,
fi-om wall to wall.
smoke
finds
its
The roof
thrown
is
In one corner
way through a
supported by
across
is
the
the
fire
house
;
the
hole in the roof.
TIJAVELS AXl) lUSCUVERIKS
according to
or into the ejes of the iubabitants,
the direction of the wind or the character of the
At
fuel.
cooking takes place
this fire all the
inmates of the khan and the guests
all
sit
the
round
till their beds are ready, when

The
brass lamp lit with oil is
everybody turns in.
extinguished, and the weary traveller looking up-
and warm themselves
wards
fi'om his pillow
through the
tiles,
sees a star
twinkle here and there, or feels the dripping of the
shower, according to the weather.
kind of wooden
The bed
is
or dresser, Avith a quUtiug
settle
generally well peopled with aborigines.
After the dirt and discomfort of such a night's

lodsincr,
which our host demanded an exorbi-
for
tant sum,
we
in the fresh
rejoiced to find ourselves in our saddles
morning
air.
long pent up in the close
London, the silence and
To me, who had been

and murky atmosphere
so
of
solitude of the route, occa-
by meeting a string of mules,
sionally interrupted
or a party of shepherds driving their herds with

fierce wolf-like
and
dogs
the space of the sky around,
combination
the
the
of
wildest
mountain
scenery .with the richest and most delicate colour-
had an
ing,
tural eye,
very
it
much
ineflable charm.
was a
relief to
as nature
made
it,
To my
unagricul-
look at a country
and which
tillage
still
had
not yet cut up into those plats and patches which so

distiu'b
On
the breadth and repose of the landscape.
approaching the isthmus, we saw
in the distance
the steep rock of the Acro-Corinthus, which towers
above the plain in majestic isolation, and from the

summit of whicli a large part of Greece is seen
THE LEVANT.
IN
1-5
As we drew near
stretched out like a model map.
Corinth, we found ourselves again within
tlie
pre-
came the phenomenon of

then here and there a wheeled
ruts and roads
vehicle, such as we had not seen during two days'
journey then cultivated fields and gardens at last,
when we ffot into the miserable villao-e, we found a
regular inn, full of English tourists, whose presence
cincts of civilization
first
rather disturbed the impression of the scene.
We
took a sailing-boat at Kalamaki, and got to Athens
becalming in an open boat, crowded
after a night's
with
ladies.
As we
Fortunately the weather was very
fine.
entered Athens in the early morning, I saw
the colonnade of the Parthenon
lit
u])
sudden
into
splendour with the rays of the god Helios.
IT.
Athens, March
The
principal
monuments
1.5,
185i.
of Athens have been so
frequently delineated and described, that a traveller,
on
first
on every side long-
arriving, recognizes
familiar forms,
and
his first impressions lose perhaps
something of their vividness in proportion to
But nothing
previous familiarity.
read or seen at
all
prepared
the Athenian landscape

visiting
me
landscape,
and
are
how
designed
how much
their proportions is
beauty of
nor can any one, without
Athens, understand
ancient edifices
had ever
that I
for the
this
in
the
enhanced by
exquisitely
relation
subtle
to
the
this
charm of
this combination.
16
TRAVELS AND DISCOYERIES
The key-note
of this hai'inony
the rock of the
is
Acropolis.
When
this
great natural landmark became
the
impregnable citadel and hallowed sanctuary of the
Athenian people, their genius converted
at the
it
same time into the noblest base which has ever been
employed in architecture. When our eye glances
from the precipitous weather-stained sides of
rocky base to the marble columns standing in
against the sky above, there
is
this
relief
a sudden transition
from the picturesque confusion of nature to the
symmetry of
from
art,
irregular
geometrical
to
forms, from rugged surfaces to surfaces wrought to
a polish like that of ivory, and jointed with the

precision of the finest inlaid- work.
The suddenness
but, on
of this transition does not shock,
the contrary, delights the
eye
there
is
harmony in the apparent discord. But if Ave take

away one of the two elements out of which this
harmony is composed, the charm is dissolved.
If,
for instance, such
an
were planted on a dead
edifice as the
level,
and mewed up
hot bricky streets of a crowded
if
much
of the
the Acropolis were dismantled of
ci'own of temples,
it
it,
unredeemed by human sympathies, just
must have appeared
all
and despoiled of its

would remain a naked barren
with which art has invested
rock,
city,
in the
would be destroyed.
original eSect of the design
So again,
Parthenon
to the first settlers
who
as
it
pitched
their tents in the plain of Attica.
The attempt
architecture from
in
its
modern Europe
natural
soil,
to
transplant
and to imitate
it
17
THE LEVANT.
IN
must
mecliauically by line and rule,
necessarily
fail,
inasmuch as we cannot transplant with the architecclimate and scenery which
ture the
the genius of Greek
first
inspired
the
peculiar
architects, nor
habits of thono'ht which blended the fortress and the
sanctuary into one, and made the same spot the

centre and rallying-point of religions and patriotic
feelings.
One
the
of the objects which interested
was
Acropolis
an
archaic
me most
of
figure
on
Pallas
Athene, in Parian marble, placed near the lodge
The goddess
of the custode.
chair
feet,
head
is
is
a tunic
over which a large asgis
the waist.
boss,
costume
her
seated in a rude
reaching to
falls like
In the centre of this a^gis
the
a tippet to
is
a smooth
on which, doubtless, has been painted a Gorgon's

;
all
round the edge of the
which metallic ornaments,

been inserted
a?gis are holes, in
have
jî'obably serpents,
the studs by which the sleeves have
been looped up on the arms have also been of metal,

the holes for the insertion being
both arms from the elbows are

ture
is
formal
and angular
together, but the left foot a
drapery
is
about
is
The head and

wanting.
The posleft.
the knees are

little
advanced
-\\Tought in parallel channels.
-i ft.
in.
high.
It is
close
:
the
This statue
said to have been
found at the grotto called Aglaurium, situated at the

foot of the Acropohs, immediately below the temple
of Athene Polias.
that in this figure
original
wooden
It
has been thought, therefore,
we have
idol, ôccvov,
a reproduction of the
of Athene Polias, which
was worshipped in her temple on the Acropolis, and

c
..3 ?
18
which the sacrilegious hand of Xerxes destroyed,

with the other tutelary deities of Athens.^
The smaller fragments of sculpture and
architec-
ture found in the course of the excavations on the
Acropolis have been carefully collected by M. Pittakys,
and temporarily
built
up
-with
mortar into
low walls, of which they form the facing.

primitive
way
This
of arrangement has the great ad-
vantage of preventing the abstraction of portable
which
objects,
among
is
unfortunately an inveterate habit
travellers.
In the cisterns on the Acropolis are a number of

fragments of the statues of the Parthenon, for a
knowledge of the existence of which I was indebted
Comte De Laborde's
to
beautiful
work on the Par-
thenon.^
Among these remains are portions of the horses from

the chariot of Athene in the western pediment, which
was
still
intact
when Morosini took Athens
in 1G87.
After the siege he attempted to lower this matchless
group, but unfortunately the tackle he employed
gave way, and the sculptures were broken to pieces.
There are also a number of arms and legs from

the pedimental figures, and
many fragments
of the
frieze.
Is is
much
to
be regretted that the Greek Govern-
ment does not provide a

the
many
suitable place of shelter for
precious sculptures which are lying about
the Acropolis, exposed, not only to the weather, but
what is worse, the brutal violence of travellers,

who would mutilate a fine work of art, merely for
I saw
the sake of possessing an unmeaning relic.
to
19
IN THE LEVANT.
with
much coucern
flicted
the injury which had been in-
on one of the
representing seated
finest slabs of the
fig-ures
one
of deities, which has been
discovered since Lord Elgin's

cast exists in the British
Meze,
visit,
Museum.
and of which a
The hand of one
of the seated figm-es in this relief overhung the
was
the more precious, because we have very few examples of hands from the finest period of Greek art.
chair in a
most easy and natural position
One day a
when the
foreign visitor, watching an opportunity

cusfode's
I regret that I cannot record the
hand.
this miscreant
man
back was turned, broke
it
off this
name
of
but I heard that he was a midship-
and that his Governwith a heavy fine.
in the Austrian service,
ment punished this exploit

The inside of the Temple of Theseus has been
converted into a temporary Museum, in which have
been deposited a number of most interesting sculptures from various sites, so huddled together that
none of them can be properly seen.
Here may be seen the celebrated
figure in relief,
of a warrior, found near Bram'on, with the

the
sculptor,
This
name
at Athens,
whom
it
inscribed
Aristokles,
on
name
of
the base.
occurs on another base of a statue found
and
it is
refers is
supposed that the sculptor to
one mentioned by Pausanias, as
the father of Kleoetas.
It
has been thought, from
the evidence of these two inscriptions, that his date
might be between Olymp. 75 and 85, B.C. 480
The name of the
artist of this relief
and the date thus approximately
440.
being known,
fixed, the
reUef
is
consequently of the highest interest, as a specimen

c 2
20
of arcliaic art, whicli
may be
Athenian
school.''
bility to the
assigned witli proba-
In this figure, as in the pictures on archaic vases,

thelirtist has
nature,
attempted too
a rendering of
literal
and has thus crowded
work with
his
rather to the detriment of the general
over-minuteness
characteristic
is
contrasted with Egyptian
armour are very

been painted.
carefully
On
This
effect.
of Assyrian,
as
The details of the

given.
The cuirass has
art.
the shoulder-strap
a star
is
the breast a lion's face, on a red ground

is
details,
on
below this
a nifeander band across the body, which
is tra-
versed obliquely by a crimson band, apparently a

lace or sti'ing, knotted
at the side in
on the breast, and terminating
an ornament like a thunderbolt.
Below
these ornaments and about the waist of the figure

is
The
The
another band, ornamented with zigzags.
ground on which the figure is relieved is red.

left hand holds a spear.
On the head appears
a skull-cap, only covering the crown
in parallel
the hair
The beard
rows of ringlets.
to be
is
falls
channelled
in zie'zao-s.
It
interesting
is
to
compare
this
figure
with
another work of the archaic period in the Theseium,
and probably
executed in a different school,
an
epoch.
earlier
broken
off"
at
This
a naked
is
The
the knees.
face
male
at
figure
has the rigid
smile and peculiar type of countenance which characterize the head of Pallas
Athens
on the early coins of
the corners of the eyes being turned up
towards the
ears.
The
hair,
curls on the forehead, falls
arranged in regular
down
the back in long
THE LEVANT.
ra
tresses
arms hang down
tlie
The
Egyptian manner.
waist pinched
as
in,
at the
sides in the
shoulders are broad, the
by stays
if
21
the line of the
upper arm more varied and flowing than
is
at first
sight reconcilable with the general archaic character
of the face.
Thus the whole statue seems to exhibit a struggle

between two schools the Canonical, which worked
according to prescribed types, and the Natural,
which trusted more to individual observation than

to
This
rules.
statue
probably
represents
an
much resembles in style one transported

from Athens to Vienna by M. Prokesch von Osten.*
Apollo.
It
In the Theseium I also saw a colossal female head

of wliich
Room
in a
of the
may be seen in the 1st Elgin

This is
British Museum (No. 106*).
cast
very grand
and one of the few extant
style,
which can be referred with probability

It has been fitted on in
to the school of Phidias.
the clumsiest manner to a torso which does not becolossal heads
long to
it,
and which mars
proportions.
found.
It
beauty by ill-matched
uncertain where this head was
is
have heard
it
from ^gina, when the

In the Theseium
its
is
stated that
it
was brought
Museum there was broken
up.
a very numerous and interest-
ing collection of sepulchral delce and
reliefs,
which
have been carefully described by Professor Gerhard,

in a valuable report
These
classes
Many
sepidchral
stelce,
on the remains of art at Athens.
monuments
consist
of three
marble vases, and rehefs on
specimens of the
first
kind
may be
Elgin collection in the British Museum.
slabs.
seen in the
The usual
TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES
22
form of a
stele is
a narrow
flat slab
height varying from one to twelve
of marble, with a
feet,
and in shape
somewhat resembling a modern Tiu-kish tombstone,

of which it probably suggested the form.
The top
generally terminates either in a floral ornament sculptured in relief, often very rich and flowing in its lines,
Below this the name of the
inscribed, with or without a com-
or in a small pediment.
deceased person
position in
low
is
These designs are usually
relief.
relief set in a
sunk square.
only bear an inscription,
it is
In the
is
which
probable that a similar
design was painted on the plain surface.

position in these reliefs
very
in
stelce
The com-
usually very simple
not
more than two or three figures are introduced, and

aU in the same plane. In this simplicity of treatment, these compositions remind us at once of the
In both cases, the
vase-pictures of the best period.
limitation of space restricted the artist to few figures
and to a single
The scenes
plane.
in these sepulchral reliefs
for the most part domestic
seem
to
be
and the mystic and
symbolical import which some archaeologists have
discovered in them
fetched.
It is
seems
most part
far-
probable that the figures represent
the family of the person

rates
for the
whom
the stele
commemo-
but no attempt seems to have been made to
reproduce their individual likeness, as in the

sarcophagi.
The most
fi'equent scenes represent a
seated female figure, surrounded by others,

usually standing up,
surviving
members
Roman
who
are
and who are evidently the
of her family.
In
many
of these
compositions, one of these bystanders presents to the
THE LEVANT.
IN
'Jo
deceased a small casket containing funeral offerings.
The ages and rank of the different members of the

family are discriminated by inequality of height. In
some cases the seated female figure is surrounded by
others,
who
attend on her
In the majority
toilette.
of these scenes, the dramatis persoiice are female.
The male
figures are fi-equently youthful athletes,
distinguished by the
containing
oil,
strigil,
the small vase (lehjthos)
and other attributes of the
Old men are rarely represented.

afforded
by these designs leads
that, while all the subjects
iialcestra.
The evidence
to the
conclusion
have a funereal import,
some represent the worship paid by the living to

the dead, while in others the scene commemorates
some incident in the life of the deceased, such as
the memory would love to dwell on.
Hence in some of these designs the figures and
symbols
recall to us the associations of active life or
of festive and joyous occasions, the idea of death
being kept out of sight.

find
In the same manner
Roman
on the sarcophagi of the
we
period scenes
representing the marriage of the deceased pair, or

the military exploits of the huslâud.
Sometimes the sepulchral monument, instead of

being fashioned as a
lehjthos,
the marble
manner
is
of
well known, con-
and about the tombs at Athens.
Jelcytlii,
the subject
or figure in very low

simple
the form
takes
which vases were, as
stantly deposited in
On
stele,
relief,
is
usually a group
treated in the
same
as has been already noticed in the
sculptures of the
stele.
Sometimes the vase
itself,
instead of being sculp-
24
tured in the round,

the surface of a
represented in relief on
itself
is
The handles of the vases
stele.
sometimes rich in ornament, as
are
the design had
if
been copied from a work in bronze.
Among
great
its
that
it
these vases I noticed one, remarkable for
size,
the beauty of the design, and the fact
had been painted.
The scene represented on
On
one side
very low
it is in
relief.
a youthful figure on horseback, very
is
and attitude
similar in type
many on
to
the
fi-ieze
of
the Parthenon.
Behind him are two females, one seated, the other

leaning in an aflFectionate attitude on her companion's
shoulder, pointing with her right
two youthful warriors

hands, as
if
hand
to a
group of
This pair are joining
in front.
taking leave of each other.
This design
is
very slightly and sketcliily treated,
but exceedingly graceful as a composition.

figures are loosely
and
make due allowance

between painting
fi-eely
for
and
the
the style,
essential
difierence
presents
sculpture,
with that of the
analogies
drawn
finest
The
if we
many
Athenian vase-
The female figures are evidently meant to

a more distant plane than the rest. The relief,
pictures.
be in
therefore,
of these figures sinks below the plane,
instead of rising
rilevato.
To
oiit
of
it,
approximating to intaglio
atone for the want of projection of
the outline of the body, a channel
them to strengthen
their effect.
made all round

The left hand of
is
the seated female figure rests on the
which
is
very slightly indicated.
rail
of a seat
In front of this
rail
projects part of the hind-quarter of a horse, the tail
25
THE LEVANT.
IX
dying away into the ground of the rcHef rather

It
aljruptly.
was probably
finished with colour,
the rail must have been also coloured, as
This
left.
represented in a
is
side-Aaew, the outline not being completed

side
most distant from the
at
is
So with the shield
present hardly distinguishable.

of the warrior on the
it
and
The
eye.
on the
third class of
sepulchral rehefs in the Theseium are small slabs, the

subject of which
generally the well-known funeral
is
feast, or leave-taking.
Of these there
are but few in
the Theseium, and they seem of a later period than the
One
rest.
of these reliefs probably
commemorates
some Athenian matron who had died in childbirth.

The principal figure is seated in a chair, and holds a
2-)yxis
on her knees
her attitude
that of a person
is
Before her stands a veiled
fainting fiôm exhaustion.
female figure, perhaps the goddess Eileithya,
advances her right hand, as
Between these two, and
if in
who
token of sjnnpathy.
back-ground,
in the
third female figure, holding in her
babe, wrapped up in linen, on
is
arms a new-born
which the seated
figure places her hand.
These sepulchral
reliefs
us, because in the scenes
in the
have a peculiar interest for
which they represent, and
sorrow which they so tenderly commemorate,
we have
a genuine expression of the feelings of the
individual,
which
in
Athenian art and literature are
seldom permitted to have free utterance.

their appreciation of domestic
ferior to
our own,
Athenians
it is
life
Though
was probably
in-
not to be sujiposed that the
were incapable
emotions natural to the
of
human
the
affections
and
heart, because in
26
the outward expression of these feelings they appear
us so reserved.
to
must be rememljered that
It
Athenian art and hterature were essentially forensic,

addressed to the whole body of male citizens, gathered
together in the temple, the theatre, the Agora, the
tribunals, or the Palcestra
ture,
though addressed,
men
in
in the first instance, to the
way into
a way imknown in
public at large, finds
hearts of
while our art and litera-
its
the homes and

ancient
life,
and
so appeals rather to the feelings of the individual as
the
member
of a household, than to those which
belong to him as a
It is in the
citizen.
tombs of the ancients, where so many
objects consecrated by domestic affection are

stored, that
we may
traits of their private
With
best acquaint ourselves with

life.
when
reference to the age
bas-reliefs
still
were produced,
am
these sepulchral
inclined to think
them belong to the period when

was still an independent state, though
M. Gerhard thinks that the practice of placing
sculptured stelce on graves did not become general
that the finest of
Athens
till
the time of the
Roman
empire.
In the library of the University I examined an

interesting collection of silver coins of Alexander
the Great, which had been recently discovered near
The
Patras.*"
greater part of these coins seem to
have been struck at Sicyon
and quite
draclims,
the mint
fresh,
as
they were aU tetraif
just
issued from
with them were found two tetradrachms
of Philip Arrhidasus, one of Seleucus, and twelve
Athenian tetradrachms; two tetradrachms of ^tolia
two
silver
said,
27
THE LEVANT.
IX
tetradrachms of Sicyon
and
also,
it
some gold coins of Alexander the Great
is
but
these last were not secured by the Government.
The Athenian tetradrachms
thick
original
This
hoard were of
be called Pseudo-
having been evidently imitated from the
Archaic,
ancient
in this
may
that well-known class which
coins
commerce
in
so celebrated
was
ancient
the
Spanish dollar has been
in
probably
much
as
Mediterranean as
the
more recent
and
times,
may
imitation of the archaic ty]3e and fabric
the
in
for the purity of their standard.
currency
original
esteemed
of Athens,
have arisen from an unwillingness to disturb the old
commercial associations connected with these coins.
The twelve Athenian tetradrachms found

hoard were nnich w*orn
on the other hand, the coins
when they
of Alexander were fresh as

It
is
in this
the
left
evident, therefore, tliat the Athenian
had been some time
in circulation.
die.
money
Again, from the
finding of coins of Seleucus Nicator, of Philip Arrhidgeus,
and of ^tolia,
same company,
in the
it
may
be inferred that the time of the deposit of this

treasure
was some time
in the third century B.C.,
and that the Pseudo-Archaic Athenian tetradrachms

were circulating down to
were succeeded, as
is
well
this
late
drachm, slightly dished, which
is
tion of the coinage of Alexander
They
period.
known, by a broad
tetra-
evidently an imita-
and
his successors.
This hoard was discovered by a peasant at Patras,

in a vase.
iai
The
coins are, I regret to say,
bags, like the tribute of a
still
kept
Turkish Pasha.
In the hands of a jeweller at Athens
saw
TRAVELS AND rUSCOVEUIES
28
This
very fine silver decadraclim of Athens.

coin of extreme rarity.
never saw but two
is
that
Museum, from Mr. Burgon's collecand one belonging to the Due de Luynes. The
in the British
tion,
one I examined at Athens had the appearance of

being perfectly genuine.
Greek Government
It is to be regretted that the
does not build a
museum
capable of containing not
only sculptures, but those more portable antiquities,
such as vases, which are

sold to strangers,
all
now
dispersed,
by being
note of their discovery being
carefully suppressed in the course of this contraband

trade.
It
is
equally to be regretted that excavations are
not carried on at Athens more vigorously.
Government seems
it is
enterprise.
at present, as
much
The
power or the
same
while, at the
Still
there exists at Athens,
interest in archseological studies
could perhaps be
Greek
either the
unwilling that they should be undertaken
by private
as
want
such researches
will to direct
time,
to
considering
expected,
civilization itself is of so recent a date
has been very
this interest
residence
of
much
accomplished
so
that
and
sustained by the
a scholar as
our
present Minister at Athens, Sir T. "Wyse.
The
Ai'chiBological Society here, of
Finlay and Hill,
among
which Messrs.
the English, and
MM.
Rhangabe and Pittakys, among the Greeks, are

members, has also done much useful work, by the
publication
new
of
Archceologil-e,
modern Greek.
discoveries
monthly
in the
periodical,
Ephemeris
written
in
IN
In the course of
hihssi,
29
THE LEVANT.
my
stay, hearing that at
near Kalamo, there were some Greek
which would repay examination,
tions
place,
Mavrod-
accompanied by Colnaghi.
insei'ip-
I visited this
on
It is situated
the sea-coast very near Oropo, the ancient Orojôs,

a town on the Boeotian frontier, which was some-
times held by the Athenians, and sometimes by the

Boeotians.
Mavrodhilissi
itself
a deep ravine
is
near the sea-shore, situated between the villages
Kalamo on the
of Markopulo, on the N.W., and
With
the
assistance of a
S.
guide from the neigh-
bouring village of Kalamo, we had no
difficulty in
discovering the spot.
and secluded
It is a picturesque
which a brook flows

this
to the sea.
On
glen,
tlie left
through
bank of
stream I found ancient foundations, evidently
those of a temenos or sacred precinct

enclosure were a
number
marble, strewn about as
from some wall or

that these had been
leaden
if
down
On
inquiry, I found
lately built
up and united by
but that the masonry
clamps,
within this
recently thrown
edifice.
till
of large cubical blocks of
had
been
broken up to build a new church at Kalamo.
On examining
the blocks, I found a nvmiber of in-
teresting inscriptions containing decrees of proxenia
granted by the city of Oropos to various persons.
The magistrates whose names were

preambles
to
the Boeotian
these
decrees
found a
an Agonistic
were the Archon of
Congress of Confederate
Priest of Amphiaraos,
also
set forth in the
list
of Victors
festival,
cities,
and the Archon of Oropos.

in
which, as
the
I
the
Amphiaraia,
we
are informed
30
TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES
by ancient
was celebrated
writers,
This
at Oropos.
inscription tells us that prizes were given in this
Dramatic, Lyrical, and Musical
for Epic,
festival
contests, also for a variety of atliletic exercises
chariot-races.
introduction
of
be
should
It
the
observed
drama
regular
and
that
into
the
festivals
of this kind was an innovation which prol:)ably took

place
in
the time
of
Alexander the Great, and
such embellishments were j;hought by the ancient

critics to
have impaired the
simj)licity of the public
festivals.
The date
of the inscriptions probably ranged fi'om
Olymp. IIG
to
Olymp. 145.
There can be no doubt, from the evidence of

the
inscriptions,
that
the
tcmenos
at
Mavrodhi-
was that of Amphiaraos, which is noticed

by Pausanias. The cubes on which the inscriptions were placed must have originally formed
lissi
part of the walls of this
cella.
It
may
be seen by
the well-known example of the Parthenon that the
Greeks were
in the habit of covering the inner walls
of their temples with inscriptions.
The Amphiara'ion,
which
or
Temple of Amphiaraos, of
I thus discovered the site,
was of consider-
able celebrity in antiquity as an oracle which sick
persons consulted for the treatment of their maladies.
Here, as elsewhere in the temples of deities to

the gift of healing was attributed,
consultation
incubation.
tration
in
was by the process
The
the
whom
mode
called syxol^T,(rtg
of
or
consultant, after undergoing lus-
honour of Amphiaraos and the other
deities associated
with him, sacrificed a ram, and,
IN
lying
down on
31
THE LEVANT.
its skin,
awaited the revelations
made
to liim in tlie dreams.
The
cure, however, of the patient did not wholly
depend on these miraculous communications, for there

were medical baths in the tcmenos, which was agreeably situated in the midst of fountains and brooks.
Museum
In the British
is
an inscription from the
Amphiarai'on which was brought from Kalamo some

It contains a decree ordering that
years ago.
some
of the silver vessels belonging to the Amphiara'ion
be repaired, and
other
vessels
made by melting
doAvn old votive offerings, consisting of plate and

coined money.
melted down
Among
is
curious inventory of the
annexed
ol:)jects
to the decree.
those metallic offerings are enumerated
hands, breasts, and other parts of the
human body,
dedicated by those wdio had been cured of diseases
by means of the oracle just such

;
offerings as
may be
seen executed in marble in the Sculpture-gallery of
Museum.
The inventory also mentions a number
the British
drachms and other coins which appear
to
of tetra-
have been
fastened to the anathemata.
Pausanias mentions that near the temple was a

spring called the Fountain of Amphiaraos, into which
persons
oracle
relieved
from
threw gold and
disease
silver
by consulting the
coins
by way of a
thank-offering or fee to Amphiaraos.
These pieces of money were doubtless collected by

the priests and placed in the treasury of the temple
as anathemata.
Following the course of the brook, I found near
32
TRAVELS AXD DISCOVERIES
the temenos
a fountain,
wliicli
mentioned by Pausanias.
probably the one
is
Close to this fountain
is
a statue in white marble lying across the bed of the

stream.
male figure draped to the
It represents a
which
feet in a tunic, over
throwing over the
left
Muses
usual in representations of
The
sandals.
surface
is
statue
Under
in
on the
is
feet are
and
executed,
fairly
is
well ]5reserved
arms are gone.
a mantle, which he
is
shoulder, with an action very
its
but the head and both
the base
is
a square socket,
which an iron clamp has been inserted to fasten
the statue to
its
pedestal.
Tliis
may be
the statue
of Amphiaraos himself which Pausanias saw.
The name of
tliis
hero
one very celebrated in
is
He was
the mythic history of Boeotia.
distinguished
both as a warrior and a soothsayer, and was one of

the seven chiefs
who fought
against Thebes.
the defeat of this expedition, he
fled,
On
pursued by
Periklymenos, and before his enemy could overtake

the
liim,
together with
and
opened
earth
his
chai'iot
swallowed
after
which
him up,
he
was
worshipped with divine honours.

Traditions differed as to the precise spot where he
disappeared in the earth,
and several places
Boeotia and Attica claimed this distinction.
of
all
these sites none
was so celebrated
in
But
as the
Amphiarai'on near Oropos.
The picturesque
Mavrodhilissi
is
ravine iu which the temenos at
situated,
narrows as
it
approaches
the sea, presenting the appearance of a chasm in

the
earth
and
these
strongly-marked
features probably influenced the
physical
ancients in their
IN
THE LEVANT.
choice of this spot for the site of
'66
Temple of Am-
tlie
phiaraos, suggesting the beUef that
it
was here that
he disappeared,
AvTolaiu ottXoiq vat
The secluded character
T^T[iaopi(TT(i)
of this glen, and the beauty
many
of the scenery, would present
the invalid
and, doubtless,
and
vEsculapius
oifppoj.
other
like
healing
attractions to
the
temples of
divinities,
this
temenos must have served in antiquity as a kind

of hospital and watering-place.
The picturesque character of the spot and the

abundance of
water probably led the ancients
fi'esh
Amphiaraos
to associate with the worship of
in this
Pan and the Nymphs. It may be

presumed that this temenos was once very rich in
that
site
of
many fragments have been used

construction of houses at Kalamo and
inscriptions,
in
the
for
Mavrodhilissi.
The peasants spoke of the speedy destruction of

those
fore,
still
remaining as a probable event, and, there-
my
on
the subject to Sir T.

in the
made a report on
Wyse, and also to M. Rhangabe,
return to Athens, I
hope that through their representations the
Greek Government might be induced to take steps

for the preservation of these interesting
As
it
monuments.
rained din-ing most of the time of our visit
to Mavrodhilissi, I
the inscriptions,
had great
and found
the site properly.
it
difficulty in
copying
impossil^le to explore
Excavation here would probably
lead to interesting discoveries.
In
tlie
3rd century before the Clu'istian

i
era, the
34
geographer Dicasarchus
in
liis
account of Greece
describes the Amphiara'ion as situated at a distance
of a day's journey for an active walker from Athens.
The
was agreeably
fatigue of the journey, he says,
relieved
by the number of inns and halting-places by
the wayside.^^
In the second half of the 19th century the traveller

on
way
his
fi'om
Athens to
over a desolate and
Maviôdliilissi passes
half-cultivated
not
countiy,
always free from robbers, and at the end of his
jom'ney he finds in the sinister and unmlling hospitahty of the Albanian peasant of
Kalamo a
sorry
substitute for the inns of Dictearchus.
We
had just time, before leaving Athens,
to
pay
a hurried visit to Mycenae, where I had the satisfac-
which
still
city of the Atridte,
and
tion of gazing on those famous
guard the gateway of the

which Pausanias saw over
centuries ago.
AU
this
lions
gateway seventeen
that he tells us about
them
is
the tradition, current in his time, that they, together
with the walls of Mycena?, Avere the work of the
same Cyclopes who made the walls of Tirjms

Proetus.
Such a legend
has, of course,
no
for
historical
value, except as evidence that the ancients believed

this
gateway
to be a
work of the heroic
ages,
and
one of the most ancient monuments in Greece, a

accordance not
only with
aU that we
belief
in
know
of the history of Mycenfe, but also with the
character of the Hons themselves as works of art.
The heads of these animals, which

Pausanias were probably
still
ing, so that
to form
it is difficult
in the time of
entire, are
now want-
an accurate judg-
35
IN THE LEVANT.
ment
however, of the original
work
modelling of the shoulders and fore legs
more knowledge and

to
of a school already
to the observation of anatomical structvn-e.
tlie
appears
remains to show
sui'face
that these two lions are the
awakened
In
Enough,
as to the style of the sculpture.
shown than
skill is
at first sight
the general proportions are well calculated
produce the
effect of
massive grandeur required
for the decoration of such a gateway.
It
has indeed
been olyected that the hind legs of the lions are

inordinately thick
but the
this exaggeration, not so
probably,
artist,
fell
into
much through ignorance
of
the natural proportions, as from the endeavour to
produce an impression of colossal
size in
harmony
with the Titanic scale of the masonry in which the
And
lions are set as in a fi'ame.

I
think that he has succeeded
in this
endeavour
for in looking at
these lions, the disproportionate thickness of the
hind legs does not at
all
distm-b the eye or
mar
the
grand impression of the whole composition.
Dodwell
thought that
character, but to
work
me
they
they appeared more like the
of an Asiatic school
gateway to the
had an Egyptian
Pelopid
and
if
we
descent of this dynasty ftôm Tantalus
quantum
art of
valcaf, as
ground
ascribe this
dynasty, the traditional
may
be taken
for the conjecture that the
Mycena? may have been derived from Lydia.
The two lions stand on their hind legs, resting

their fore paws on plinths in front of them.
This
position
is
peculiar,
and suggests
at once the idea
that they are accessories, or, to speak heraldically,
supporters in reference to the object between them,

D 2
36
which appears to be a kind of term diminishing

towards
its
base.
Such an arrangement of a
pair of
animals reminds us of several of the primitive types

of Asiatic Deities, and especially of the figure called
by Pausanias, the Persian Artemis.
On
the other hand,
it
type under which the

deities
is
certain that the archaic
Greeks
represented
their
was that of a term or column, with or with-
out a head.
It is therefore probable that the object
between the two lions
such a sacred symbol.
is
has been justly remarked, that the Uons' heads,
It
now
broken away, must have looked outward, not at each

other, as there would not otherwise be room for
them within the angular recess in which they stand.
Such an attitude at once suggests the idea that they
are placed over the gate as sentinels to keep watch
and ward
and
it is
through
cients constantly placed
Hence
it
this
motive that the an-
hons at the entrance to tombs.
seems probable that the term placed be-
tween these two
lions
is
the symbol of some tutelary
deity, the guardian either of the city gate or of the

city itself.
Mure and several of the Gei-man archaeolo-
gists suppose this
term to represent Apollo Agyieus,
"the guardian of ways."
may be Hermes
Gottling suggests that
In illustration of this question
it
that over a gateway of the Carian

stiU
it
'"
Pyledokos, or " the door-keeper."
may be observed
city Mylassa may
be seen, sculptured on the keystone, the battle-
axe, labrijs,
which was the special symbol of Jupiter
Labrandensis, the tutelary deity of the Carian race,
and which was placed
in the
the temple at Labranda.
hand of
his statue in
37
THE LEVANT.
IN
Witli regard to the vexed question wliether the

singular conical
chamber
at
Mycenae
is
to be con-
sidered as a treasury or a tomb, I think that the old

traditional
name " Treasury
of Atreus," given to
by Pausanias, should be retained,
if
it
only for con-
venience, though there
is
much
to be said in favour
of the theory that
a tomb.
Perhaps, as Dod-
it is
may have been at once a

From the few fragments of
well suggests, this building
tomb and a
treasury.
the sculptured decorations of the doorway, which
have been foimd on the spot, and which are

the British
Museum,
it
may be
inferred that
The
vases.
like those
on the
it
earliest
Greek
was
fictile
seems more
style of decoration
in
and that the
inlaid with marbles of several colours,
ornaments were
now
like
that of the doorways of the tombs at Doganlu, in
Phrygia, than anything

tecture
and
this is
we know
of in Greek archi-
an additional ground for con-
necting the early art of Mycenaj with Asia Minor.'^
III.
MvTiLENE,
On
our return from Mycente
steamer to Constantinople.
May
10, 1852.
we proceeded by
After passing the Dar-
we found ourselves in a chmate almost

as wintry as we had left behind us in England,
and though the month was April, the shores on
danelles
was a misermorning when we approached the Golden
each side were covered with snow.

able sleety
Horn, and
cannot
say that the
It
first
aspect of
38
Constantinople corresponded with
gorgeous
that
picture which the celebrated description in Anasta-
But when,
sius presents to the imagination.
began to
narrow
muddy wharf
on the
landing
plod
after
Tophanah, we
at
our way through the
and
steep
which lead from Galata to Pera, we
streets
realized at every step all the annoyances
which the
accounts of former travellers had prepared us to

Juvenal, in
expect in this detestable thoroughfare.
his third satire, describes in a few terse lines the
miseries
and
by an unhappy
encountered
perils
pedestrian in the streets of ancient
Rome
how he
has to fight his way through the mud, forced
for-
ward by the throng behind, only to be driven back

by the counter-stream, jostled and elbowed at every
tiu-n by porters carrying great beams or barrels,
while ever and anon the nailed boot of some rough
soldier stamps on his toes
the rich man, meanwhile,
;
surveys fi'om
luxurious
his
litter
crowd, as the dense mass yields to the

of his sturdy bearers.
struggling
the
momentum
This description, written more
than seventeen centuries ago, will serve for the

streets of Galata at the present day, if
we
substitute
the arabah and the sedan chair for Juvenal's
and
for the
who
clears the
the
mud on
swaggering
way
for
Roman
litter,
soldier the cavass
some Pasha, prancing through
a gaily caparisoned steed.
Immediately after our arrival I presented
my
cre-
dentials to Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, who received

me with a most cordial welcome, and entered into
the project of
interest,
my
future researches with a lively
promising that whenever
it
should be neces-
39
THE LEVANT.
IN
sary to apply to the Porte for a Firman to enaljle
me
to
make
excavations, his influence
my
exerted to the utmost in
Among
should be
behalf.
the letters of introduction which I took
out from England, was one to Dr. Mordtmann, the
Charge d'Aflaires of the Hanseatic towns, and one

of the few learned
men
at present resident at
He is well acquainted with
stantinople.
much time
Greek, and has devoted
Con-
Turkish and
to the study of
coins of the Sassanid dynasty, of which he has a
large collection.
He
is
at present
engaged
in pre-
paring a work on the ancient monuments of Constantinople, for the illustration of
which so
little
has
been done since the time of Banduri.

I rode with
seem much
him
i-ound the walls of the city, which
in the state in
which they were dm'ing
masonry are
the Byzantine empire.
Built into the
many Greek
which Dr. Mordtmann

Mounting on a high tower,
inscriptions,
copies with gi-eat care.
we had
a fine bird's-eye view of Stamboul, and I was
surprised to see
how
large a portion of the space
enclosed within the ancient walls

dens.
During the
is
devoted to gar-
earlier period of the
Byzantine
empire, the population was far more densely crowded
than at present, as appears from a passage in the

historian Zosimus,^*
of the 5th century.
who
We
flourished in the latter part

learn from an edict of the
Emperor Zeno, that about
this time
it
was customary
to build very lofty houses, with projecting loggie, or
and terraces on the roofs while in the

public porticos and squares the spaces between the
columns were everywhere encroached upon by shops
balconies,
40
and
The
stalls.
unsightly, for
city
effect of these
it is
must have been very
enacted that in those parts of the
which lead from the Milliarium to the
Cajjitol,
any stalls placed in the colonnades must be faced with

marble and must not exceed six feet in width and seven
in height, so as to afford free access to the street in
parts of the colonnades. ^^
This practice of placing
under public porticos in the ancient Byzan-
stalls
tine cities
may have suggested to
of their covered bazaars,
and
the Turks the plan
arrangement
in this
the uncivilized conqixeror seems certainly to have
improved on
We
must
his predecessors.
not, however, take
granted, that
for
because the city was so crowded during the earlier
number of
period of the Byzantine empire, the
in-
much larger than at present;

Latin conquest, much of the space of the
habitants was necessarily

for
the
till
ancient city
palaces,
was occupied by churches, monasteries,
and other public buildings.
Many
of these
must have been destroyed long before the

Turkish occupation, either by the barbarous Latin
invaders, or by conflagrations, as may be inferred
from the description of the city given by Bertrandon
de la Broquiere, a Burgundian knight, who visited
Constantinople in 1433, and who remarks that the
edifices
open spaces within the walls equalled

portion
still
covered with buildings.^"
that the Turks in
many
in extent the
It is probable
cases built their
wooden
houses on the solid vaulted substructions which they
must have found everywhere under the ruins
and
excavations in their gardens would probably bring to

light
many
architectural remains.
IN
pompons
After reading the
41
THE LEVANT.
descriptions of ancient
Constantinople in Byzantine writers,

surprising to find so few extant
former magnificence.
it is certainly-
monuments
of
its
was much interested in seeing
the building which the laquais de place call the Palace

of Belisarius, but which seems to be the palace which
Byzantine writers
This
call
Hebdomon
or
Magnaura.
one of the few extant specimens of Byzantine
is
It is built of bricks of different
civil architecture.
colours, arranged so as to
form rich bands of
inlaid-
work in the interior are columns with highly ornamented capitals. This edifice, called by the Turks
:
Tekir Serai,
Near
wall.
into a
is
built
it is
on a rentrant angle of the
city
now converted
a Byzantine church,
mosque, called Kachi'eie, which I believe few
travellers visit."
The
entrance, as
is
usually the case in Byzantine
through a varthex, or vestibule, on the
churches,
is
west,
which are some faded
aisle
in
on the south
is
fi'escoes.
side
richly decorated with mosaics
both on the walls and cupolas above
these cupolas
are divided into segments, each of which contains
the figm'e of one of the Prophets.
In the space
between the cupolas are represented the miracles of

the
New
history.
defaced,
Testament and other incidents
On
fi'om sacred
the walls are colossal figures
much
and smaller compositions. The larger figures
were detached against a gold background
in the
smaller compositions landscapes were represented in
the distance, very like those in early Italian pictures.
The
figures
have very long proportions, and are
simply and grandly composed.
The colouring
is
42
very
and harmonious
rich
and
throughout,
the
general effect solemn and majestic, as in the early
mosaics of the church of St. Paolo fuori
and that of
St.
Cosmas and
St.
Damian,
le
at
Mura,
Rome.
The effect of the mosaics on the walls and vaulting must have been greatly heightened by the
decorations of the pavement, which
is
still
in
many
The body of
the mosque, was probably
places inlaid with coloured marbles.
the church,
more
still
now used
richly
zeal of the
as
ornamented
but here the pious
Mussulman has long
since effaced
all
traces of Christian art.
Of
for
Sophia I had but a confased impression,
St.
we
could only see the interior by joining a large
misbellaneous party gathered together from several

hotels
by the laquais de
who undertook
place,
to
obtain the necessary firman at a charge of a napoleon for each person, probably double
what
it
really
cost him.
Taking our places in this drove of nose-led
we gave
up with a feeling of abject depenbe dragged through the muddy streets of
ourselves
dence, to
Stamboul from mosque

listen to the
cicerone,
tourists,
to
mosque, compelled to
lanmeaning jabbering of a Levantine
instead
of being allowed to
halt for a
while and contemplate at leisure the mighty structure
which, even
Eastern Christian
nument of
in
its
still
his faith,
present
desecration, the
venerates as the noblest mo-
which
symbol, not less of the
in
liis
eyes
fixture destiny,
is
a visible
than of the
past history of the Oriental Church.
The day may come when the
staring green and
IN
THE LEVANT.
43
gold texts from the Koi'an, fixed like hatchments
on the pilasters
dome
the
as
the chandeliers
plumb
to
if
its
suspended fi-om
vast abyss
the prayer-
carpets strewn with the books of the Mollah, and the
other outward signs and appurtenances of Mussul-
man worship
its
be banished from
will
internal perspective will
by an arrangement which
reluctant
mosaics,
St.
Sophia
when
no longer be disturbed
eye of the
forces the
Giaour to squint Mecca-ward; when
now
its
overlaid with whitewash, and faintly
and there like the text of a palimpsest,

shine forth in renewed glory, and in their original
visible here
will
combination with the precioixs many-coloured columns
and the exquisite
lace-like carving of the cajjitals.
But what modern Anthemius could restore the

exterior of the building, what amount of polychrome
decoration could make this huge, clumsy, naked mass
of brickwork pleasant to the eye
original design has
still
I think the
Admitting that the
been much mutilated and defoced,
exterior of St. Sophia
Byzantine architecture depended for

effect
almost
tion,
and very
entii'ely
little
on
inlaid
shows that
its
external
polychrome decora-
on the harmony of chiaroscuro
produced by the judicious opposition of plane and

projecting surfaces.
Within the precinct of the Seraglio, the govern-
ment has recently made a small museum in the

ancient church of St. Irene.
Here a few frag^ments
of sculptures
and inscriptions are flung together
without any attemjjt at arrangement.

I noticed the
relief:
she
is
Among
upper part of an Amazon,
in
these
high
represented as rushing forward and
44
about to deal a blow
To my
her battle-axe.
witli
(Plate I.)
surprise, I recognized this as a fragment
from
the frieze of the Mausoleum, twelve slabs of which
were removed from the castle at Budrum by Lord
now
Stratford de RedclifTe, in 1846, and are
Museum.
British
how
fragment foimd
this
The
any on the slabs

sui'face less
also
no information as to
I could get
in Constantinople.
way
its
in the
figure
into the
is,
Museum
I think, finer than
Museum, and
in the British
the
defaced than most of them.
noticed here the head of a sei'pent in
bronze, said to have been broken off from the cele-
brated triple serpent of the Hippodrome.
It is rather
and
the eyes, of
coarsely executed
deficient in style
which only the sockets remain, have been inlaid

There
silver or precious stones.
plate,
with
hand her bow, and
left
wearing a mantle ornamented with stars
from the top of her head.
grotesque figures, holding, one, a

tiger in a leash
right, a turkey,
Roman
horns
is
rise
Below are two

lion,
the other a
both these figures have horns.
each side of Diana
the late
a cui'ious
is also
silver figiu'es raised in relief, representing
Diana seated, holding in her

straight
in
On
a dog, and above her, on the
and on the
left
a parrot.
This
is
of
period.
The few fragments of sculpture which have been

found in Constantinople
be
art,
all
itself
Byzantine, and of
of late years, seem to
little
though they are curious
interest as
works of
for details of costume.
sepulchral relief of this class in white marble
may be
seen lying in the garden of the British Embassy, in
digging the foundations of which
it
was discovered.
11
FRAGMENT
OF
FRIEZE!
MAUS OLEU
IN
THE
MUSEUM
OF
TNE
OF
SERAGLIO.
N S T A N Tl N
die
Qqc-c:!.
PL F
IN
two interesting
visited
45
THE LEVANT.
collections of
Greek
coins,
M. Michanowitz, the AusIshmael Pasha has no numis-
that of Ishmael Pasha, and

trian Cousul-General.
matic knowledge, but has a very clear idea of the
He
value of ancient coins as articles of commerce.
keeps his collection in great sacks, which are brought

in
He
by a dozen attendants.
if
tliey
were
many
so
them out on the
rolls
them in his hands as

and then begins
table in great heaps, jingles
piastres,
cross-examining the Frank numismatist as to their
genuineness and value
their historical interest being
utterly overlooked.
Macedonia and
The position of a Pasha gives him of course
His collection
Thrace.
is
rich in coins of
great opportunities of collecting

rate.
On my
small dagger,
gift
coins at a cheap
taking leave, he presented
mounted
in silver,
me
accompanying the
with an intimation that he hoped
him a coin or two from Mytilene.

The collection of M. Michanowitz
would send
not
arranged in cabinets, I could only examine

cursory manner
but the coins
me very much. During

]\I.
Michanowitz
coins of Thrace
He
tive one.
Chalcis,
in
has
it
in a
saw interested
almost exclusively the
therefore, a
His
most
series
rich
from the
and
instruc-
a most beautiful gold coin of
Macedon,
silver coins of the
being
a long residence at Salonica,
collected
and Macedon.
two provinces was,
with a
same
identical
in
type with the
place.
The time which had been allowed for my journey

from England to Mytilene having drawn to a close,
we proceeded to Smyrna, where we halted for a
46
TRAVELS AND DISCWVEKIES
couple of days before going to IMytilene.
We
had
brought k'tters of mtroduction to Her Majesty's

Consul Mr. Brant, and also to Mr. Hanson, who both
received us with that genial hospitality for which
Smyrna has always been so justly celebrated.

Here I saw the fine collection of coins belonging
to M. Ivanoff, the Russian Consul-General, which is
particularly rich in specimens from the western
He
southern coasts of Asia Minor.
and
also possesses a
very fine head of a Satyr in red marble, found at

Aidin, the ancient Tralles.
From
the expression
of anguish in the features, I should imagine that

this
when about
the hand of Apollo.
represents the Satyr Marsyas
imdergo
liis
terrible
As Mytilene
lies
doom
at
directly
to
on the track of the
French and Austrian mail packets which ply between
Smyrna and
Constantinople,
it
has the benefit of
steam communication every two days, an advantage
which few islands
in the
Archipelago enjoy.
One of these steamers conveyed us accordingly to

new home, where we landed at eleven o'clock
p.m.
The night was very dark, and the twentyour
three packages which
formed our luggage were
picked out by the aid of one very inefiicient lantern
on deck, and pitched into a shore-boat, amid the

vociferations of a swarm of Greek boatmen, mingled
with an occasional deep sonorous growl from a
Turkish custom-house
felt
ofiicer.
We
should
have
very forlorn at being thrown out on a strange
shore like a shipwrecked plank, had
it
not been for
the kindness
of two Mytileniote gentlemen,
Bargigli and
M. Amira, who had come on board
Dr.
to
IN
On
us on sliore.
escort
47
THE LEVANT.
landing,
luider the hospitable roof of
we were
my
received
predecessor,
JNIr.
my appointment,
who was anxiously waiting my
Werry, who had been promoted, on

to
Benghazi, and
arrival in order to be relieved
from his old post.
I got up very early the next morning to take a
my new
home, which the darkness had

Before I had gone
entirely hidden the night before.
look at
met a Greek funeral. On the bier

was laid out a young girl about fourteen years old,
the face exposed, the head encircled by a chaplet
of fresh flowers, after the manner of the ancients.
many yards
had been
If I
mood
in the
to care about omens,
here was one such as in antiquity might have detained

a traveller ready girt for a journey, or a ship with
fair
wind.
After breakfasting with our host, I arrayed
magnificent
self in a
new
uniform, too
for the climate of the Levant,
Mr. Werry to pay
visits of
the Vice-Consuls,
my
magnates of the
wary
He
eye,
is
ceremony to the Pasha,
future colleagues, and other
place.
and a
sinister
excessively
Kulaksiz,
it is
years of
mouth, weak, but cunning.
rich,
ofiicials
and has an advantage
can seldom boast of; he can
trace his descent to a grandfather.
having,
fifty
aristocratic aquihne nose, a restless
which Turkish
is
my-
jDadded
and proceeded with
The Pasha was a gentleman about

age, with an
much
or
to
"the
Earless;"
His family name
some ancestor
be presumed, been deprived of those
members by an angry Padischah. His fathei- was

Pasha of Mytileue during the Greek revolution, and
48
having large landed possessions in the island, and

the exclusive monopoly of the oil-trade, took very
good care that
it
should not be sacked like Scio.
In those days the power of a Pasha in a Greek
was a despotism unchecked except by the

occasional intervention of some greater despot like
the Capudan Pasha.
The life and property of the
island
were always in jeopardy, for the Pasha

was only too happy to find a pretext for confiscation ;
and as the Greeks were disaffected, and informers
rich Rajahs
plentiful,
such pretexts were never wanting.
This arbitrary government has ceased since the
Tanzimat, and the present Pasha reigns over his

paternal dominions not, perhaps, according to strict
constitutional
forms,
but with some check from
public opinion and the fear of an appeal to Constantinople.
He
received me with that suave urbanity and those
gracious platitudes with which

so well to adorn
official
Turks know
their discourse in a first interview
but
medio de fonte leponim
Surgit amari aliquid.
The Pasha's manner inspired me with a secret

there was something feline m his blandishdistrust
;
ments.
I
for
must reserve
my
next
letter.
my
first
impressions of Mytilene
MAP OF
SIYTILENE (XESBOS)
RciUu'i'cl
liom Adnui-allv Chart
F^F,,:
MAP OF
MYTILENE 'LESBOS
Reduced from Adinualtv Cliart
:N"
1664 1665
IN
49
THE LEVANT.
lY.
SIytilese,
HAVE now
give you
mode
of
lieen here
in
my new
this
is
place,
my
and of
home.
ThouQfh the name of Lesbos

historical associations,
30, 1852.
long enough to be able to
some account of
life
May
one so rich in
is
and though the island
so conspicuous an object to
all
who
sail
past
itself
it
on
way to Smyrna or Constantinople, it has never

much
explored, and the accounts given by the
been
travellers who have visited it are exceedingly vague
their
and
meagre.^*^
The
description.
shall
to^^l of Mytilene,
travellers call Castro, but

its original
name,
is
my
therefore be minute in
which the older
which has now resumed
situated on a peninsula on the
E. side of the island (see the Map, Plate 2).
This
peninsula consists of a rocky promontory connected
with the mainland by a low isthmus, on either side of

A\-liich is
a small harbour, one to the north, the other
to the south.
by
These ports were formerly connected
a canal, called
promontory,
by the ancients Euripus.
now
a peninsula,
is
The rocky
therefore spoken of
by Strabo and others as an island,^^ and fi'om the

strength of its position was originally chosen as the
site
of the city
Acropolis.
situation
As
itself,
the
and afterwards became
population
became more
increased,
secure, the
town spread from
the island to the shores of the two harbours.

E
its
and the
60
by the Genoese family

Gateluz, noAv occupies the site of the Acropolis, and
most of the lower ground which formed the site of
the ancient town is covered with the houses of the
Greek and Turkish inhabitants. The Turks live
mediaeval castle, once
lielcl
principally in one quarter, near the north harbour.
On
the land side the to^vu
lofty bills,
which completely shut
At the
west.
nearly surrounded by
is
in the \'iew to the
foot of these hills rims a low wall,
which surroimds the town from harbour to harbour,
and served
It
lution.
Pasha
for its defence during the
was
built
Greek Kevo-
by the father of the present
at that time.
The
site
Hellenic
of Mytilene resembles that of
cities.""
At a very
many
early period, as
other
Thucy-
dides tells us, the Greeks selected such sites for their
cutting off the isthmuses.
cities,
of such positions was obvious.
The advantage
The headlands were
strong and sometimes inaccessible positions

two ports connected by a canal enabled
vessels
south
to
the
their
put out to sea either with a north or
wud, and
the narrow strip of rich land along
the shore served for gardens for the supply of the

city.
Of
the two
harbours,
that to
the
south was
anciently used for triremes, and therefore
with a chain
it
could
remains of two moles are
contain
still
closed
The
fifty vessels.
visible at its entrance
two small lighthouses mark the width across which

the chain must have been stretched.
The dejith
varies at present from three to one fathom
as
is
constantly the case in Turkish ports,
it
but,
has
IN THE LEVANT.
been mucli
51
from the accumulation of ballast
filled iip
discliarged from ships.
The northern harbour was protected from
the sea
by a more massive mole, portions of which yet
main nearly
inortar.
Strabo, but
We
called
harbour
This
it is
now
ashlar-v/ork, Avithin
cemented with coarse
core of rubble
is
It consists of
in the centre of the port.
two external walls composed of

which
described
is
nearly
re-
up with
filled
deep by
as
rubble.'"^
was
The Malea where the Athenians
learn from Aristotle, that this harbour
Maloeis.
stationed their fleet and held a market in the siege
of Mytilene, B.C. 428,
must have been somewhere
near this port on the north of the

I could discover
site
is
town.^'^
no trace of Hellenic
Avails
on the
of the ancient Acropolis, but the Genoese castle
probably built on
its
foundations, as
it
occupies the
whole of the summit of the rocky peninsula.
Within
numbers of houses inhabited by poor

Turks who do not form part of the garrison. The
protection afforded by its guns must have been forits
precincts are
merly of great value when visits of Greek pirates were
The family of Gateluz held it till

part of the 15th century, when it was taken
more formidable.
the latter
by Mahomet
This castle
II.
imperial fortress
is
still
kept up as an
by the Turks, and though a place
of no strength, serves as a depot of arms and to
overawe the town of Mytilene.
It is
not an in-
teresting example of military architecture,
cypresses
walls give
planted
it
Acropolis the
about
its
a funereal look.
fields
and the
naked white -washed
At
the foot of the
are strewn with fragments of

E 2
52
TRAVELS AXD DISCOVERIES
To
sculpture and painted pottery.
the castle
the
soutli
of
a platform where stand the Turkish
is
Between
prison and the kiosk of the Pasha.
platform and the castle
is
this
a hollow, on the sloping
which are found many fragments of Greek
sides of
painted vases of
all
An
periods.
ancient cemetery
may, therefore, have stood here.
The part of
the rocky peninsula nearest the castle
has not been encroached upon by modern buildings,
which would have interfered with the

guns.
On
strip of land
the
between a small
fort
to the
south, lying
and the harljour,
group of houses, the residences of the

Consuls.
rans-e of the
is
little
different Vice-
This constitutes the Frank quarter.
Though the
natural features of the ground are so
strongly marked, no traces remain of the ancient city,
and the whole aspect of the site is so changed by

modern occupation that it is difficult to imagine that
here once stood one of the most beautiful cities of the
Hellenic woi'ld, wliich Horace thought worthy to be
named
in the
same stanza
in
which he celebrates
From the few notices

authors, we know that the
Rhodes, Bphesus, and Corinth.

of Mytilene in ancient
canal called Euripus by the Greeks
was crossed by
bridges of white marble, and that here was a theatre
the plan of which excited the admiration of Pompey,
and which he wished to imitate at Rome."^ Vitruvius,

admitting the magnificence of the architecture, points
out
how
badly the plan of the city was arranged
in reference to
the prevailing wands.
It
was so
exposed, he says, to the north, and south that the

sirocco
made
the inhabitants
ill,
the north-west wind
53
IN THE LEVANT.
gave them coughs, and the north, though a healthier

wind, was so cold that no one could stand in the
open
streets."*
The modern town
of Mytilene
a straggling,
is
dirty village, the houses, like those of Constantinople,
constructed of wood, either entirely, or on a lower

story
but
of stone.
This
is
frail
mode
of structure,
thought to be the safest in case of earth-
is
The timber
quake.
is
Asia Minor.
coast of
supplied from the opposite
The
roofs are
of red
which gives the town a mean appearance.
which forms the present Turkish Bazaar
street
supposed to mark the
line of the ancient
canal between the two jjorts.
poorest description
few open
dizains
is
all
is
Euripus or
The shops
the market for
brought in from the country
tile,
The
are of the
provisions
held in the main street.
supply the place of sewers, and
the exhalation which an eastern sun extracts from
them,
if
not poisonous enough to produce a constant
epidemic,
is
at
European nose.
carried
any rate very disagreeable to the

All the traffic with the interior
panniers or with skins
full
of
at every turn in the street.

to
is
on by mules, strings of which, laden with

oil,
jostle the passenger
It is hardly necessaiy
add that wheeled carriages are unknown.
All
goods, however heavy, are embarked or disemliarked
on the backs of porters.
It is difficult in walking-
through these squalid, noisy, crowded

feel
inspired by the proper admonitus
Mytilene
it
is
streets, to
loci.
indifferently supplied with water,
has an aqueduct.
Many
though
of the public fountains
have had their supply of water intercepted
for the
54
In
use of private individuals.
and
alonoo the shore of the
tlie
Turkish quarter,
southern harbour outside
the town, are large gardens, which are
all
irrigated
from a well by means of a water-wheel turned
The
by a donkey.
home
sight of the
all
day
donkey going
his
and the creaking sound of the wheel,
circuit,
combined with the pleasant shade of the
seem always
town gardens
cultivation of
in
The
to invite a siesta.
is
rich, friable,
many
soil
trees,
of these
and black with the

I often explore
centuries.
them
quest of inscriptions, and, sometimes finding a
door open, walk into the garden of some rich Tm-k,
and
find
guarded
his apples of the Hesperides
a black eunuch,
who warns me
off"
Ijy
wath great indig-
nation.
The coimtry round Mytilene

described
it
is
what Cicero
still
nearly 2,000 years ago, pleasant and
Beyond the town to the south, the land bends

in, forming a bay, bounded by a lofty mountain-ridge.
Between this ridge and the sea the coast slopes grafertile. -
dually to the foot of the mountain, and
is
covered
with luxuriant verdure, in which the foliage of the

olive predominates, blending its silvery
masses most
happily with the tender green of the pomegranate, the

myrtle, the fig-tree, and the bay.
studded with country houses and

the mountain as cidtivatiou
is
These slopes are

villages, as
possible
high up
above, on
the steep rocky sides, flourish the cistus and other
mountain plants and shrubs, scattering
their
aroma
through the pure and delicate atmosphere.

In the deep ravines with which the face of the
mountain
is
channeUed, the course of the winter
IN THE LEVANT.
torrents
now
marked by a
is
in fidl
bloom.
55
rich red fringe of oleanders,
paved road winding along the
course of the ravines, leads to a pass formed by a
notch in the steep mountain-ridge.
On
ascending to this pass a most striking view
presents
lene,
itself:
on one side
is
seen the town of Myti-
and the indented outline of the shore,
for ever
varied Avith headlands and bays, Avith a sea so calm
and blue that
tlie
in lapis lazuli
on the other side
island looks as if
round, without a
inlaid
Olivieri,
wooded
lulls
a
all
and with hardly a breeze to
sail,
disturb the even repose of
name from
Port
is
vast natural harbour, shut in by
were
it
It takes its
its surface.
the olives which stretch along
its
fertile
shores and up the steep sides of the surrounding
mountains
far as the eye
can reach, investing
the land in the silver mantle of
would be monotonous were
it
all
verdure, which
its
not relieved by the
contrast of the deep blue water below.
Turning
fi'om
scenery of
the
Mytilene
to
its
present inhabitants, I experienced a painful shock.
Nothing
can be
and man
in
tion of
less
harmony
in
this favoured island.
European
civilization
few Smyrniote families
is
who have
than
Nature
faint tradi-
pi'eserved
in the
settled here for
and
whose half-dozen houses form the Frank quarter
the sake of consular appointments or trade,
but even in this society the interest in subjects such

as
we
talk of in
Europe
congenial companion
is
is
whom
but small.
I
The most
have met with here
a Dr. Perotti, an old Piedmontese refugee, who,
though a man of considerable acquirements, has
56
many
been content to dwell in obscurity for
years
Mytilene, amusing liimself witli collecting the
at
and
coins
The
antiquities of the island.
of silver coins of Lesbos
now
fine series
Bibhotheque
in the
was acquu-ed through Dr. Perotti.

Among the Greeks are no very rich merchants,
at Paris
but a bourgeois class, most of

prietors,
olives.
and trade in the
Not the
whom
oil
are land pro-
produced by their
among them,
least respectable
report speak true, are several elderly
if
gentlemen,
who, in the troublous times of the Greek revolution,

enriched themselves by the issue of forged money,
or followed the profession of pirate
time-honoured
in the Archipelago.
This native aristocracy,
now dominant
where Pittacus once ruled, have that

air
in the city
sleek,
contented
which we associate with the idea of Flemish
burgomasters, to
whom
their picturesque dress
further assimilates them.
They
still
generally possess,
besides their house in Mytilene, a country house,

"with a pleasant
garden where they smoke and doze
away in the summer heat.

They ride on sturdy mules, and
life
the mountain tracks remind
as they
me
wind along
of the fio'ures in
the old pictures of the Fhght into Egypt.
accoutrements are of the rudest kind
Their
a great clumsy
pack-saddle, over wliich is thrown a rug, rope stirrups,
and a chain attached to a
headstall, for the mules are
too strong and obstinate for any ordinary bridle;
The men
generally
and the women
was seen
in
sit
sideways on these pack-saddles,
astride.
The
first
time that a lady
Mytilene on a European side-saddle,
IN THE LEVANT.
came
the people
all
to see
57
what seemed
to
them
so
unfemininc a mode of riding.
The women
town of Mytilene are handsome,
in the
but very few of them have good teeth. Like the Greek
women
of old, they wear rouge, and
till
lately
dyed
They have well-cut features,

but there is something mean in the whole chai'acter of
the face, and I found more to remind me of the old
their teeth with henna.
massive grandeur of features of
classical type in the
the
Roman
The
contadina.
by
jealously guarded
ladies of
their husbands.
Lesbos are
Since I have
been here, I have seldom seen one in the
come
Occasionally they
streets.
out of their cage to take
when they gather

and strut about in Smyrna
a walk of a summer's evening,

together on the sea-shore,
musk, vain as peacocks, and even
finery, redolent of
shi'iller in
their cackling.
It is to
be feared the rigid incarceration of so
many Danaes has an

mestic
life.
unfavourable eifect on
It is said that the ladies find
to avenge themselves on their tyrants,
morals of this beautiful
little
do-
means
and that the
island have not im-
proved since Sappho's time as much as could be

desii'ed.
The Turks
in
Mytilene are a decaying and de-
With the exception of the
creasing population.
Pasha
himself,
who
jjossesses very large landed pro-
perty in the island, and his son, there are no very

rich Turkish proprietors.
seclusion of their
own
They live, as usual, in the

and are not veiy
quarter,
friendly to Franks.
No Jews
to exist at Mytilene.
have ever been able
sententious old
Turk
told us
58
some years ago some unhappy Hebrews came

here to settle as merchants.
The first morning after
that
their arrival they took a
walk in the bazaar, where
they saw the Mytileniotes weighing the eggs they
bought, to see if they were worth the paras they gave

" This is no place for us," said the Jews,
for them.
" these Greeks would be too knowing for us " and
;
so
away they went from Mytilene, where no Jew,
my old Turk,
entii'e
has ever attempted since to
population of the town of Mytilene
about 8,500,
at
of
whom
foreigners, protected
settle.
is
said
The
reckoned
from 200 to 300 are
by their several consulates.
These are mostly Hellenic or Ionian subjects.
The
number of Mussulmans probably does not exceed

2,000.
I
have been employing
my time
lately in exploring
the country in the immediate vicinity of Mytilene
The
itself.
first
place which I visited was the
aqueduct at Morea, a
to the
N.W.
\'illage distant
of Mytilene.
The road
Roman
about an hour
to Morea, issu-
ing from the north gate of Mytilene, passes through
an Hellenic cemetery, where sarcophagi and tombs

are occasionally found.
at
The remains
Morea extend across a small
of the aqueduct
valley.
It consists
of three rows of arches, of which the uppermost
The lower part
of brick.
blocks.
style,
3).
It
may
On a
letters
is
is
is
built of squared massive
beautifully proportioned, and, fi'om the
be ascribed to the Augustan period (Plate

stone in one of the pillars I noticed the
M 0,
probably a mason's mark.
Remains
of this aqueduct are to be met with at St. Demetri,
two hom's and a half from Ayasso, on the road
to
IV1YTILE(:JE_
T/i;i Pn"Ul-,"L_-n
ROMAN
AQUEDUCl
59
IN THE LEVANT.
Vasilika
one
lioui'
The
also at a place caUed Larissou
Lamarousia,
distant from Morea.
Morea
village of
one of
is
tlie
most
flourish-
ing in the neighbourhood of Mytilene, and has a
The
large school-house.
richer Greeks of Mytilene
have country houses here, in which they pass their
still
floor
name
retain the ancient
They
These country houses
summer.
villegiat'ura in the
of Pyrgi, or towers.
are usually tall square houses, with a ground-
which
only used for housing cattle and farm-
is
ing implements, and an upper story generally consist-
Above this again
ing of a single room.
a third story.
house
is
sometimes
The entrance to the upper
part of the
sometimes by means of a
is
of stone
by a wooden ladder inside
steps outside, sometimes
Some
the ground-floor.
flight
of the older pyrgi along
the coast of Mytilene are strongly built with squared
This kind of dwelling-house must have been
blocks.
originally adopted for defence against
The reception-room
of pirates.""
rich
Greek
The
floors are
is
and a kind of lace
always very smart

;
but she never
the conversation
privilege.
little
at the edges
covered with white dimity.
guests
in the pyrgos of a
a model of neatness and cleanliness.

washed like the deck of a man-of-war,
the napkins snow-white, with a
is
sudden attacks
that
is
the divan or sofa
The lady
her duty
sits
gold embroidery
down
is
of the house
to wait
or takes any part in
her husband's business and
have had to make a great
lately in the course of
on her
my
rambles, and
many
am
visits
neai-ly
choked with quinces, marmalade, sugar-plums, cups

of coflee^ chibouks, narguillas, and various
other
60
offerings,
which to accept
is
often painful to the
guest, but to refuse is a certain affront to the host.
Continuing along the shore in a N.W. direction, at

the distance of two hours from Mytilene
Therma?,
is
a place so called from the hot mineral baths which

still
Here
exist there.
is
the Admiralty Chart as Ancient Mole.

of Thermae
inland.
name
is at
It is
Sarelek,
marked in
The \nllage
a small harbour
the distance of about half an hour
marked
Chart by
in the
"yellow."
its
name
This
Turkish
given
is
from the colour of the water in the hot springs,
The baths
which are feiTuginous.
buildings of a recent period.
are small vaulted
In the walls are a
number of interesting inscriptions originally copied

by Pococke, from which we learn that there was at
Therms a Panegyris Thermiaca, and that Artemis

was worshipped here vmder the title of Artemis
Thermia J^luakoos, " the Propitious."'^ The connection between the woi'ship of Artemis and these
ferruginous baths
is
very obvious, as the use of such
tonic waters would be prescribed in connection with
The senate and
the bracing exercise of the chase.
people mentioned in these inscriptions are,

yjresumed, those of the
fields all
it is
town of Thermae.
to be
In the
round the baths, marbles used in build-
ings are found in the
soil,
but
could not hear
of the discovery of any sculpture or architectural
ornaments.
Pococke saw here great ruins of buildings, particularly of a colonnade leading to the baths
from the
south, the pedestals of which remained in his time.
Along the shore a little
to the east of
Thermte are the
THE LFA'ANT.
IN
remains of a sea-wall built
The ashlar-work
of"
61
rubble and concrete.
facing has been removed.
About
ten minutes' distance from Thermos on the road to
Mytilene, and about the same distance from the sea,

is
a ruined church called St. Eustratios, with some
At the back of the apse
ancient fragments.
is
carved stone with part of two lines of an inscription,

in
which the word
AAMO
occurs.
Returning from Thermas
I visited a small
church
called St. Nicolas, at a place called Torre di Firme.
Here
in the wall
on the
left
side of the
doorway
is
an inscription to the emperor Hadrian as Saviour
and Founder of Mytilene. The church
is
surrounded
by a wall with a doorway, on the right side of

which
is
a gladiator in
an attitude of defence
inscription.
On
relief,
holding his sword in
above are the remains of an
the opposite side of the doorway
is
a bas-relief in similar style, representing a gladiator
kneeling and awaiting the attack of an Indian bull,
who
is
These
rushing at him
reliefs are in
above has been an inscription.
a very late style.
Between Thermae and Morea
is
Paphila, which
is
incorrectly written Baftah in the Admiralty Chart.
Near
this place is a small
Avith
a farm-house or
eminence called Karadipi,
chiflik.
In excavations here
were found recently fragments of two statues of
Of one, a male figure, the feet only

The other fragment consisted of the legs
of a female draped figure.
The style was not
very good.
At Paphila I saw a terminal jjillar
surmounted by a much-mutilated bust, perhaps of
some philosopher.
Avhite marble.
remain.
62
On
the side of
insci'ibed
tlie
road near Karadipi
a cippus
is
" The great Artemis of ThernifB."
seems to have been the base of a statue.
by the side of the road,
jiartially
It
This
lying
is
overgrown with
shrubs.
Returning to Mytilene by Morea, I noticed at the

distance of about ten minutes from that village a
place
by the roadside
warm
Here
called Achlea.
is
On
a bath vaulted over.
spring with
opposite side of the road the face of the rock

scarped, and on
may
effaced,
tCov yvaCfiswv,
it,
be read the words
" of the
fullers,"
part of a dedication by a
made use
now
in very large letters,
TWN
warm
is
nearly
rNA<l>EU)N,
which
company of
of the water of this
the
is
evidently
who
Imme-
ftiUers,
spring."^
diately opposite to this inscription on the other side
of the road, are the foundations of a small square
made with mortar, placed at

warm water. In the wall of a
building
the side of a
pool of
field
the road and the sea
is
a sepulchral
stele
between
with three
figures in relief, probably representing a wife taking
a last farewell of her husband and son.
vineyard between this

large blocks, which
spot and the
appear to be in
sea
In a
two
are
situ.
probable that a small temple dedicated to the
It
is
nymph
of the fountain stood here.
To
the S. of Mytilene the coast terminates in a
promontory, called Zeitin, the ancient Malea.
was here
that, immediately before the battle of
ginusfe, the Spartan fleet of
by
Kallikratidas, dined
Athenian
fleet
120
vessels,
It
Ar-
commanded
on the same day that the
dined on the island of Arginusas
IN
THE LEVANT.
63
This place must not be confounded
opposite them.'"
with the Malea to the north of the town, where, as

has been ah-eady stated, the Athenian
tioned in their attack on Mytilene.
were
fleet
sta-
It is uncertain
where the temple of Apollo Maloeis was situated
know
was outside the city.

The fertile shore lying between Cape Malea and
Mytilene would afford many places suitable for the
Ave only
of
it
that
it
holding of a Panegyris such as Thucydides describes^"
On
to have been held at this temple.
hand,
if
the other
the North Harbour was called Maloeis,
it
seems probable that the temple was somewhere in

vicinity.
its
I could discover at
Cape Malea no
traces of ancient remains except the capital of a
richly-sculptured Ionic
called
Near
On
Panagia Mali, a
this chapel is
column
little
in
chapel
little
to the "W. of the Cape.
an ancient cistern used as a
the shore between Mytilene and Malea
village of Pligoni,
well.
is
the
where are columns and some small
remains of ancient foundations.
Mytilene, Jmie 20, 1852.
Shortly
after
my
had a
arrival, I
\Tisit
of the greatest personages in Mytilene
archbishop of that
two
ilk.
The
island
archbishoprics Mytilene
thymna).
The
moment, happens
Greek hierarchy.
archbishop
to be a very
He
of
and
is
from one
the
Greek
divided into
Molivo
Mytilene,
at
(Methis
good specimen of the
has a long flowing beard,
G-i
such as Rembrandt would have studied in painting
His manners are dignified and
a Jewish rabbi.
He
com-teous.
several
my
brought with him to
attendant priests
whose vocation
painter, or ^wyori(ôs,
pictures of the Virgin (called
house
one of them was his

it
to paint
is
by the Greeks Panagia)
and of the Saints.
This gentleman was not quite
so courteous as his
chief.
Seeing a few scraps of
my
room, " Are you come,"

said he, in an angry tone, " like another Curzon, to
rob us of our antiquities ?"
marble lying about
He had
read a Greek translation of Mr. Curzon's
book on the Eastern Monasteries, and the idea
seemed to possess
his
mind that every Englishman
who came to the East was a Curzon in disguise.

The Archbishop, perhaps from policy, gave no sign
of such hostile sentiments.
Among
the Greeks an archbishop
still
retains the
"Master;" and
came before me offi-
old Byzantine title Asa-Trorr^s, or the

shortly after
my
visit,
a case
showed me how great is the influence

exercised by the Greek hierarchy over their flocks.
An Ionian, who had been beaten and maltreated by
cially, wliich
some of the inhabitants of

before
the Mejlis, but could not get any of the
Mytileniotes to
come forward
as witnesses
being here regarded almost as foreign

applied to
lonians
Ai'chbishop,
making an appeal
He
settlers.
me as his consul for redress, and at his
gestion I represented the case to
He
sued them
his village,
my new
sug-
friend the
to his sense of justice.
at once promised to excommimicate the whole
lage, if the required evidence was not forthcoming,
vil-
and
me
sent
65
THE LEVANT.
IN
an aô f,iiTTixov,
mandate,
oi'
which operated
heartiest imprecations I ever read,
producing two
briskly,
How
of twelve hours.
Middle Ages.
live
of the
full
witnesses in the course
like
manners of the
the
Greek would rather commit any
kind of atrocity than incur the terrors of excommu-
His conscience
nication.
is
made
of the same stuff
as that of a 12th century baron or a
modern
Italian
brigand.
The other
day, the Archbishop officiated at the
baptism of Mr. Werry's
Greek
my
rite.
child,
according to the
The ceremony, which took
predecessor's house,
was very
of the audience evidently thought
The Archbishop was
long,
it
place in
and some
very tedious.
attired in roljes, of
which the
gorgeous fashion has evidently been preserved vm-
changed from the Middle Ages, and of which the

embroidery,
stiff
with gold, seemed like a reflection
from the bygone splendour of the old Byzantine

empire.
He had
six
resque long beards.
attendant priests,
Everybody present held
hand an attenuated wax

lighted,
The
mth
pictu-
in their
taper, four feet long,
and
though the ceremony took place in the day.
child, after a great
number
of prayers had been
was stripped, anointed with oil, and totally

immersed in water, to its great discomposure and
the amusement of the spectators, who consisted of
read,
all
the
female,
c.07ys
vice-consiilaire of Mytilene,
male and
and who talked and laughed irreverently the
whole time.
looking
tin.
marked
all
The
font
was made of very common-
After the immersion, the havibino was
over with a metallic instrument intended

P
66
to represent a seal
then dressed, and placed in the
arms of the godfather, who,
for fear of accidents,
held the child in a scarf suspended round his neck.
Then the godfather marched all round the font with

him several times, the Archbishop all the time
exorcising the evil spirits that might be supposed
to harbour designs
against the unconscious
minded me of the
pagan ceremony
old
AmpJddromia, in which, seven days

child
altar
httle
This perambulation round the font re-
squaller.
was
by torchlight.
carried in
its
called
after bu-th, a
cradle swiftly round a blazing
The resemblance between the
two ceremonies may, however, only be accidental.
On
returning the Ai-chbishop's visit I saw, in the
courtyard of his house, the celebrated marble chair
which
engraved in Pococke's Travels.^^
is
richly sculptured.
The back
is
curved.
It is very
Two
seated
gryphons with outspread wings form the arms of
The
the chair.
the gryphons
each side below
which a serpent
under the
on four Uons' legs
seat rests
is
is
on
tripod round
In the front of the chair,
coUed.
seat, is the inscription,
nOTAMnNOZ
rn AEZBUNAKTOZ
nPOEAPIA
"
The
Below
is
place of lionoui- of Potamon, son of Lesbonax."
a footstool, ornamented in front with an
arabesque, representing a Triton with two
This
theatre,
row,
marble
chair
is
probably from an ancient
where Potamon must have
among
the
civil
tails.
and
sat in the front
i-eligious
dignitaries of
IN
Mytilene, each of
place
THK LEVANT.
whom
marked by an
67
probably had his appointed
inscription on his seat.^*
Les-
bonax, the father of Potamon, was a sophist and rheto-
who
rician,
lived in the time of Augustus,
and whose
head the Mytilena?ans put on their copper coins, with

the inscription, " Lesbouax, the
new
hero."
His son
Potamon was, like his father, a sophist, and resided

at Rome, where he gained the favour of the Emperor
Tiberius, who, on the return of Potamon to his
native coimtry, is said to have fm-nished him with
a passport in this form
"
If any one dare to injure
Potamon, the son of Lesbonax,

whether he
will
let
him consider
be strong enough to wage war with
Me."^^
Soon
after seeing this chair I
happened to be passing
by an unfinished house just as the workmen had fixed

a marble in the side of a window.
Seeing that it
had a Greek
inscription,
examine
I stopped to
it,
was a dedication in honour of the

same Potamon whose chair I had seen at the Arch-
and found that
bishop's house.
it
I ascertained fi'om
my dragoman
who was so
me for the
that the house belonged to an Ionian,

obliging
British
as to present the
Museum, on my
marble to
providing him with another
in its place.
Shortly after this I discovered another inscription in
which the name of Potamon
is
associated
with that of two other benefactors of Mytilene
Pompey and Theophanes.

The dedication to Pompey comes
first
he
is
styled
benefactor, saviour,
and founder of MytUene
name
follows,
of Theophanes
F 2
who
is
the
called saviour,
68
benefactor, and second founder

is
and the
tliird
name
that of Potamon, followed by tlie same titles as those
bestowed on Pompey.
Theophanes was the intimate

Pompey, and wi'ote a history of his expediand it was through his influence that the great
friend of
tions
Eoman was
induced to restore their Uberties to the
MytHenseans.
In gratitude for these services they put
head on their copper coins with the inscription,
his
"The
The
Divine Theophanes."
taste
for
hero-
Roman empire "was not peculiar

Rome was full of Greeks like
Potamon and Theophanes, who made it their busi-
worship imder the
to the Mytilenajans.
ness to
the friendship of the reigning
cultivate
emperor and so to advance their own interests and
Such men
those of their native country.

dedications
made
to
them by a
in the
gTatefid country are
styled <ptXoxai(rapsg or friends of CfBsar.^*
In modern days every pasha residing in the provinces employs an agent at Constantinojjle to look
after his interests Avith the Porte,
Greeks resident at
Rome
and many of the
during the Empire were
probably in like manner retained by their respective

states to plead in their behalf in all cases
where the
maintenance or extension of their privileges was

concerned.
Yesterday I went to the Greek school to attend

the
first
day of the annual examination of the boys,
which takes place in the presence of the Archbishop.
The
school
is
a large, well-ventilated building, with
me
a lesson
The masters
at Myti-
an excellent head master, who gives

in
modern Greek every
day.
lene have been of late years rather distinguished
69
IN TilE LEVANT.
scliolars
who have
tbey are natives of the island
M.
finished their education at Athens.
LteKos, the
predecessor of the present head master, was educated
German
at a
university, with the sons of
Bunsen, and exchanged
Chevaher
his situation at Mytilene for
The proceedings
a better post at Smyrna.
this
morning opened with a long discourse on the merits

of ancient literature by the master, well written and
Then were
clearly delivered.
called forth the
senior scholars of the first class, one of
poem
of his
whom
own composition on Lesbos,
two
read a
in the vile
in which the modern Grreeks have shackled
rhyme
and imprisoned
to
me revolting
tlieir
in
language.
Greek rhyme,
Dante could reconcile me to
There
is
something
not even a Romaic
it.
After the poem, the same boy was ordered to take
up a
Plato,
and construe the beginning of one of the
dialogues, first giving an abridged history of the
life
of Plato, which he did viva voce, very clearly and

methodically.
dern Greek.
He
then translated a page into mo-
I confess that
gave
it
me
a shudder, to
hear the mellifluous sentences of the divine philoso-
pher tortured and distended and diluted, so as to
modern idiom but the experiment was

interesting as a means of comparing the two languages, and must be very valuable for the boys,
suit
the
because the style of Plato

simplicity, clearness,
is
excessively prolix,
is
a perfect model for
and strength.
and
its
Modern Greek
structure clumsy
thus, in translating from the ancient,
condensed energy
After the Plato
is
much
and
of the
necessarily lost.
came Homer, preceded
in
like
70
manner by an
ciation,
oral biography.
which corresponds with the accents,
to the ancient metre
their claim to
is fatal
the quantities are utterly
all
naught. The Greeks
set at
The modem pronun-
feel this,
notwithstanding
have preserved the tradition of the
ancient pronunciation, which appears to be a very
The want
doubtful pretension.
of accordance be-
tween ancient quantity and accent
is,
owing
was not com-
to the fact that classical poetry
doubtless,
posed to be read, but to be chanted, with the accom-
paniment of music.
After
Homer came
a somewhat
elementary examination in moral and physical philosophy, and after that mathematics.
by the
side of
an immense
slate,
The
jjupil
stood
on which he drew
the geometrical figures, and then went through the
problem.
This part of the examination being rather dry, I
who had
amused himself
with moving the springs of mine backwards and
got somewhat sleepy, and the Archbishop,
never before beheld a Gibus hat,
forwards.
This invention astonished the venerable
old gentleman very much.

slate
The
with the diagram upon
with the explanation

guage, reminded
me
all
it,
sight of the large

in
Greek
letters,
written in the Greek lan-
of the schools of antiquity, where
mathematics were probably taught in this practical

way, by making the pupil draw the geometrical
The examination of the school

concluded with the young ladies, who construed St.
fiofure
on a
slate.
Chrysostom with great success, and gave biographies of several celebrated characters in antiquity.
The tone of
delivery
was somewhat drawling and
71
IN THE LEVANT.
nasal,
and
French atrocions as that of " the
their
Bowe." At Athens French
school of Stratford atte

is
better taught.
school there,
At an examination at Dr. Hill's

heard two young ladies recite a
dialogue from Moliere in a very creditable manner.

I
was so much pleased with the manner of edu-
cation in the school at Mytilene, that by
encouragement
amount of
of
offered a prize of books, to the
five
way
dollars,
the best essay to be
for
written in modern Greek on some subject connected
with the ancient history of Lesbos, such as Pittacus.
This
offer
was
civilly declined.
It is a pleasant surprise
to find
something to
praise in the character of the Mytileniotes,
must be
zeal and
it
shown great
promoting education hj
confessed that they have

intelligence
in
the establishment of schools
local rates levied
My-
In the town of
on the several communities.

itself,
over the island.
all
These schools are supported by

tilene
and
some years ago, a large sum was
expended by the
inhabitants
for
the purpose
of
giving an European education to two young men,
on the imderstanding that they were to return to

Mytilene, and give their acquired knowledge for the
One
benefit of the island.
for the medical profession,
master.
of these
was educated
the other as a school-
The young doctor unfortunately
died
and
the young schoolmaster, in consequence of a mis-
understanding between him and the community,

M3i;ilene,
introduce
and
settled at
European
Smyrna
but the attempt to
though a
culture,
honourable to the Mytileniotes
left
the
more
failure,
so, as
is
they
72
devoted a sum of money at the same time to
and machines
purcliase of a set of instruments
of a library
The
works.
occasion to refer
large a
number
to,
and
am
it
and
classical
have
frequently
how
surprised to find
modern
of
and history
philology,
of scientific
library
classical
for
philosophy, and for the
the teaching of natural
formation
tlie
Avorks on archaeology,
Besides
contains.
the
G-ymnasium, there are also in the town of Mytilene

three primary schools,
one
and two
for boys
for
girls.
The
natives of this island are thoug-ht to
special aptitude for learning,
show a
and a large proportion
of the bishops in the Greek church are Mytileniotes.
They
on
coming
when they
see
in contact with
me
know
curious to
I
much curiosity
new phenomena
are hvely and quick, and have
first
copying an inscription, they are

the meaning and the date
but
do not find them disposed to follow up an inquiry
when
real labour is required.
Yesterday I went
out attended by a bare-legged urchin,
my
the side of
read or write.
aypaja/xarof
mule.
who ran by
asked him whether he could
" No," he said with a sigh
" and then, after a
came out an aphorism worthy

" Ovoloc Sev
"He who
E}(t
little
"I
of Pittacus himself
ypafifiaTa, Sey
tiÊt
am
deliberation,
:
/xa-ia.
cannot read, has no eyes."
So, too, thought the ancient MytilenfBans
for
it is
recorded of them that they punished their revolted

allies
by forbidding them
to teach their
children
reading or music, esteeming this prohibition as the

greatest of penalties.''"
THE LEVANT.
IN
Near the school

where
is
is
73
the church of St. Therapia,
an interesting Greek inscription which has
been pubhshed
in
Bockh's Corpus.'"
It relates to
the restoration of some political exiles to Mytilene,
which took place by command of Alexander the

Great, shortly before his death.
had made an
alliance vntli
him
The Mytilenasans
after the battle of
the Granicus, but had afterwards been compelled by
the generals of Darius to receive a Persian garrison,
which was
finally
driven out by Hegelochos, B.C. 332.
YI.
Mytilene, June
20, 1852.
The Turks have just got through their great annual

Ramazan not, however, without one of the
fast the
breaches of the peace which usually occur in this

period,
when
his long
humour from
the Mussulman, out of
and painful abstinence from food and
to-
bacco, has his sufferings aggravated by seeing the
Giaour in the daily enjoyment of these luxuries.
Hence a
desire on the part of the
the Giaonr's head, which
execution
feuds, as
and there
is
is
Turk
to break
not unfrequently put in
an annual renewal of these
the faction-fights of an Irish
fair.
come before me, in which

an Ionian, having been beat and maltreated by some
Turks, I had to apply to the Pasha for redress, by
whom the matter was referred to the Mejlis, oi' local
tribunal.
This is a mixed court, composed of Mussulmans and Christian subjects of the Porte. The
case of this kind has just
74
Pasha of Mytilene presides
Mahommedan
tive of
Archbishop
is
also a
the Cadi, or representa-
him
law, sits by
member.
the Greek
In islands
Myti-
like
where the Greeks are rich and powerful, the

Christian members of the Mejhs have considerable
lene,
influence,
and make
it
commit the arbitrary

common.
The
civil
impossible for the Pasha to
which were formerly so
acts
Mejlis takes cognizance of a variety of cases,
There
as well as criminal.
court, called the

real property.
is
Mekkeme, which
Sales of land
court, in the presence of the Cadi.
AH
in
many
deals only with
are ratified in
tribunal, the Tijaret Mejlis, has
duced
another
also
this
commercial
been recently intro-
places.
matters of dispute between Ottoman subjects
and subjects of European powers resident

are referred to the
whether
civil
or
j\Iejlis
and
Turkey
in every such case,
criminal, the foreigner
sented in court by his Consul,
in
who
repre-
is
acts for
him
as
his counsel.
According to the treaties made between the Porte
and the principal European nations, no foreigner can

be arrested and tried without the knowledo-e of his
Consul
and
proceedings an English
in criminal
Consul always claims a voice in the idtimate decision

of the court.
His presence at a
trial is
great injustice, because he
is
always a check upon

a witness to the pro-
ceedings not to be intimidated or silenced

if
his protest is not attended to,
appeal to his Ambassador,
and
he can always
an appeal which,
in the
THE LEVANT.
IN
case of the English embassy,
tQ
seldom made
is
in
vain.
In ordinary cases the Consul
is
represented at the
dragoman when a matter of any importance demands his intervention, he goes himself.
It was on Monday last that I made my first apMejlis
by
his
Knowing
pearance at the Mejlis of Mytilene.
no Turkish, and very
little
as yet
Greek, and being quite
ignorant of the form of procedure in the court, I

felt
when
nearly as nervous
going to be tried myself;

soon gave
me
The place
walked
but a
little
of meeting
a large square room, two
is
the fashion in Turkish houses,
is
are composed entirely of windows.
entrance-door
On his
the Pasha, on
sits
left is
law before him.
side of the
On
the right of the Pasha I found
Then,
nice gradation of dignity, were,
all
who were
down
first,
Turkish members of the Mejlis

;
a large divan,
room opposite the
the Cadi, with a book of Turkish
a vacant place for me.
members
In the post of
the right-hand corner, and facing the
in
which runs along the

door.
was
experience
confidence.
sides of which, as
honour
in, as if I
the room, in
the subordinate
then the Greek
then the dragomans and other retainers,

allowed
chairs,
but not seats on the
divan.
The proceedings open,
like all affairs in
Turkey,
with the bringing in of the chibouques, a distinction

not extended beyond the precincts of the divan.
The tobacco
of a Pasha
matic, and there
vapour
in the
is
is
very pleasant and aro-
none of that disagreeable thick
room which
arises
from the ashes of
76
the European cigar.
Opposite the divan stand the
accuser, the accused,
and the witnesses, who are
brought in and out as they are wanted by a cavass,

or policeman, in a rich dress, with three or four pistols
and knives stuck sideways into
The proceedings open
his belt.
in a very slow
and formal
sort of way, with the reading Turkish
documents
by the Cadi
case
makes
then the witnesses are called.
in favour of the
Mahommedan
If the
accused or
accuser, or other party to the suit, the Cadi lets

it
alone
if
he turns
made
it
he sees that
it is
in his favour
going against the Turk,
by quoting some ready-
precedent, or by some other legal quibble.
All that the Consrd can do, in such cases,

protest, bully, threaten,
and
finally, if
to
is
he can get no
report the whole story to Constantinople,
justice,
Ambassador takes it up, and after a good

deal of bullying and threatening on a greater scale,
extracts from the reluctant Government a vizirial
letter ordering the Mejhs to revise their decision.
This vizirial letter would be practically a dead letter
where
if
his
make
the Consul did not
enforced
and
resistance
after a
it
his business to
have
it
good deal of active and passive
on the part of the
local authorities,
generally succeeds in carrying his point.
he
In the
present case the decision of the Mejlis was so unjust

that appeal to the
Embassy
The advantages of
court
are
so
object of general envy
passport
is
be unavoidable.
British protection in a Turkish
obvious,
jects of the Porte.
vdll
The
that
the lonians
among
are
the Christian
the
siib-
desire to possess a British
so strong that every sort of iBgenious
TN THE LEVANT.
device
practised
is
are
taxes,
and
The
order to obtain one.
in
dragomans and other persons

Consiil
t i
in
the service of a
exempted by the Porte from certain
in all matters
where
theii' civil
rights are
concerned are generally allowed by the local autho-
same advantages
rity the
as Ionian subjects.
Consul has consequently no
difficulty in finding
any number of Greek dragomans ready to serve him

pay him
for nothing, or even to
for the privilege of
being his employes.
Hence some of the unpaid Consular agents

Levant have a
tail
in the
of six or seven of these retainers,
whose functions are of course purely nominal

as there
is
a limit to this abuse, protection
tained by other devices
but
is
ob-
sometimes a Rayah makes a
voyage to the Ionian islands and comes back with
some mystification
sometimes the same
a British passport, obtained by

of the local authorities there
residt
is
home.
obtained by bribing the Consular clerk at
Sometimes an Ionian
fi'om a distant village
presents himself before his Consul, accompanied by

a
young man, whom he introduces
as his son, just
about to start on a journey to Constantinople and

therefore in
want of
a jâssport,
virtue of his birthright.
which he claims by
In proof of his nationality,
a baptismal certificate duly signed by the priest of

his village is
produced, and the Consul issues the
passport; unconsciously depriving the Porte of a

subject
who has been converted
means of a
into an Ionian
by
false certificate.
Some check
to this practice
Consul were always to
might be given
if
the
insist that the signature of
TRAVELS AND DiSCOTEEIES
78
the
priest
attached
baptismal
the
to
should be legalized by the Archbishop
certificate
but that
would only prevent the forgery of the signature.
As
for the fraud itself, it
Greeks not only as

exploit
would be regarded by the

but as a commendable
justifiable,
for to deprive the Porte of a
their eyes only robbing the
subject
is
in
common enemy.
most vigUant and upright

the Levant are now and then induced by
It is probable, that the
Consuls in
such stratagems to give passports to jiersons having
no right
to
them
but
how
it is
with those Consular
agents scattered over the Levant, to whom oiirGovern-
ment gives the official seal and title with no other

emolument than they can derive from fees ? Is it at all
likely that their virtue
bribes
can resist the constant
offer of
Mr. Weriy's predecessor at Mytilene was one
of these unpaid Consular agents, an Ionian by birth.
He was
naturally anxious to release as
many
of
the Hellenic race as possible from the thraldom of

Tiu-kish oppression,
and with
this
view he created
at Mytilene about 200 pseudo-Ionians.
dition
sit in
still
records
Local tra-
how this venerable old man used to
the public cafe after dinner, with his Consular
seal all
ready in his pocket.
After a certain
number
of glasses of rakee had been imbibed, a passport was
always to be had for a reasonable consideration.
Our small
visit
society
has been enlivened
of a French gentleman,
M. L
who
by the
resides
at Maltepe, on the opposite coast, the ancient pro-
montory of Cane, where
he has bought a large
estate for the cultivation of olives.
He
lives there
with a large retinue of native servants, but cut off
from
European
all
His house
society.
with one large room on the

floor
79
THE LEVANT.
IN
first floor
is
jî/vgo,
the ground-
being devoted to cattle and farming stock. The
other day this gentleman had a visit from twenty-
who landed on a little

has a quantity
L
five pirates,
coast,
where M.
told his shepherd not to
island
off"
the
He
of sheep.
grudge them anything they
might want, and they had the modesty to be content

with thirty-five sheep
whole
affair
M. L
looked on the
with great complacency, regarding the
loss as a species of black mail,
such as the Scotch
Highlanders used to levy on
rich Lowlanders.
M. L
gave
me some
tlie
information as to the
dif-
ferent systems of lioldiug land in his part of Asia
Much
Minor.
of metairie
of the year,
into his
amount
of the land there
that
is
when
is
held as a species
to say, the proprietor, at the
end
the land requires ploughing, takes
employ one or more peasants according

of land requiring cultivation.
to the
The peasant
proceeds to plough the land under the following

conditions
He
seed,
plough and oxen, the landlord finds
finds the
and pays him

for
sufficient
his
in
advance a sum of money
maintenance
between seed-time and harvest.

gathered
First
is
in,
the period
When
the crop
is
a division of the produce takes place.
set apart
then the
during
seed
the tithe claimed by the State;
for nest
year, ahvays
considered
sacred, like the treasury of an Oriental
monarch;
much corn as will repay

advance he has made to the labourer
then the landlord takes as
him
for the
during
the year.
Whatever remains
after
these
80
three subtractions
equally divided between land-
is
and labourer.
lord
no ready money, the sum ad-
If the landlord has
vanced by him to the labourer has to be raised on

the security of the ensuing harvest
if
the harvest
he has to borrow again on the next harvest.
fails,
Without such
expedients
business
could not be
carried on in a country in which there
a circulation of specie,
and
is
so limited
which Banks and
in
of Exchange are unknown.
Bills
means of transport were improved, and the roads more safe from
robbers, the landlord would of course be able to
If the
money
convert his crops into ready
at a distant
market, instead of pavming them in advance.
M. L
on
has planted a large number of olives
which he hopes to cultivate accord-
his property,
ing to the system adopted in the South of France.

I learnt from
him and other Greek merchants
here,
the following particulars i"especting the cultivation

of the olive-tree in Mytilene.
It appears that the natives are
indolent that they take
little
so ignorant
and
pains to improve what
nature has bestowed so abundantly, for the olivetree

tree
grows wild
is
the sides of
hills
and
deposit fi-om
always be
the
hills
tation
The cultivated
young vigorous wild
over the island.
Olives like a rich clay
stock.
vial
all
usually grafted on a
mountains
formed by the
but
a free circulation of air.
the
soil is cleared,
in the
terraces,
in valleys
they flourish on
following
there
On
allu-
should
the sides of
or defricJte, for the plan-
manner
which are supported by
It
is
cut into
walls, to prevent
the earth from being carried away from the roots.
THE LEVANT.
IN
81
These plantations run up the sides of the

high as there
is sufl&cient
the wild olive grows
summits of the
hills
among
;
thus
the surface of the island
The
foliage.
grows
to
times
depth of
soil,
above which
the rocks nearly to the
through the summer
all
covered with evergreen
is
earth in which
olive requires the
year
but the proprietors
ploughing ought
to
in
hills,
This manure
soil.
and no straw
is
be in Januarj^
Manure produced by
other cattle on the

the
The
mule-load to
is
and
tree,
The
friable,
The allowance
it.
ten piastres (about
the hire of a yoke of oxen.
the last in
very light and
is
full-grown
first
the sheep, goats,
mixed with
is
Mytilene
âloughed in to nourish
is
mule-load to a smaller tree.
ploughing
it
be ploughed or dug not less than three
generally grudge this necessary labour.
May.
as
hills
and half a
price of a day's
Is.
8d.), including
day's digging costs
five piastres.
The
tree requires to be pruned
in order that the
air
may
from time to time,
circulate freely
through
its bra.nches.
The constant breezes
of Mytilene, and the abun-
dant supply of fresh water, are two causes which
have probably much aided the cultivation of the olive

here.
The
roots of the olive-trees absorb most of
the riches of the
other plants.
for
soil, leaving^ little
Sometimes
two or three years
extend over a whole
nourishment
olive-trees
and
this
district.
remain barren
barrenness
This
for
is
very
may
much
the case in Mytilene at this time.
The quantity and
quality of the oil depend on a
82
variety of conditions
mode
of cultivation
the kind of tree and
firstly,
secondly, the time chosen for
gathering, whether in October, before the fruit

ripe, or in the
two following months
manner of gathering.
In Mytilene, and generally
olives are beaten
objection to this
thirdly, the
Levant, the
in the
The
fi-om the tree with staves.
that the operation
is
is
is
generally
performed violently and clumsily, and the young
germ of the
shoots of the olive which contain the
next year's crop, and which are put forth in the
autumn, are broken
The nature of
off in the
the olive-tree
annually in the autumn
then broken
off,
why
chief reason
fruit
to
renew these shoots
consequently,
if
they are
the tree has no germs for the crop
of the ensuing year
produce
is
course of the beating.
and
this
said to be one
is
the olive-trees of Mytilene only
every two years.
In the south of
France ladders are employed to reach the branches.

Fourthly, the quahty of the
depends on the
oil
time that elapses between the gathering of the crop
and
its
In Europe they send
grinding.
mill immediately after gathering

this
cannot be done
till
detains
February.
interval of
the
The
olives
olive
to the
but in Turkey
the tithe of the gathered
The delay of
crop has been taken.

tithe
it
it
collecting this
from the mill
kept
in
store
till
about
during the
two or three months between the gather-
ing and grinding loses something of
its
and cannot be preserved
salting,
additional expense.
to be considered.
excejit
by
freshness,
an
Next the mode of grinding has
Where
the
oil is
carefully
made,
83
IN THE LEVANT.
ground
as in Italy, the olives are

set
with stones
first
wide apart, so as not to crush the kernels
by a
second grinding the kernels are crushed, and a rank,

inferior oil is
oils
are kept
In Mytilene the kernels are always ground
separate.
in the first grinding

tity,
These two
produced.
and the object being the quan-
not the quahty of the
oil,
one inferior kind
is
produced instead of the two separate products.

Lastly has to be mentioned, the
the olives
when ground
Mytilene the pulp
water
is
of pressing
or reduced to pulp.
pressed in hair bags with
is
in Italy the bags are
cold water only
mode
employed.
warm
made of rushes, and

The Italian bags have
been tried in Mytilene, but the old process

ferred.
In
In Mytilene the same pulp
is
is
pre-
pressed several
times through the same bags, each time producing
a coarser kind of
sive squeezings is
The produce of
oil.
all
mixed together.
pulp, after one pressure,
is
tanks, so as to produce what
tive hand-press is
been
tried,
called huile lavee.

in Italy,
still
an hydraidic
in Mytilene the primi-
Steam-power has
employed.
but does not seem to be approved.
Italy the greatest care
miU and press after

The oil produced
observed in washing the
in Mytilene
is
partly
consumed
manufacture of soap and for
lamps, the remainder
machinery.
is
In
use, in Mytilene none.
in the island, in the
oiling
In Italy, the
thrown out into large

is
For the pressure of the pulp

press has been introduced
these succes-
is
exported to Europe for
Formerly the quantity of
oil
exported ranged from 200,000 to 220,000 quintals,

or 10,800 to 11,900 tons. The severe winter of
G 2
TRAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES
84
1849 destroyed
trees, since
about 25 per cent, of the
olive-
which time the exportation has not ex-
ceeded 40,000 quintals, or 2,160 tons.
VII.
Mytilene, September
We
have
30, 1852.
lost the eternal chirping of the
insects, whizzing
through the
air all day,
summer
and
spoil-
ing their brilliant wings at night in the flame of
my
The great host of locusts has vanished with

the summer it is now some weeks since the long
brown fringe of their dead bodies lay on the edge
lamp.
of the sea, forming a border two or three inches
wide to the indented shore, which used to

daily in the sim like a
it
frizzle
pen when you put the end of
into a candle.
Since I have been cut
off"
from
English society,
all
amuse myself by going on board the steamers

which call here, for the chance of exchanging a word
with some passing traveller. The other day I saw a
curious collection of Polish Jews going down from
Constantinople to Jerusalem.
They all stood in a
row on the deck, with their faces to the east, and
said their prayers while the vessel was anchored
off" Mytilene.
One of the Greek boatmen who had
I
taken
me on
board opened
new phenomenon.
tian
his eyes very
He had seen
all
manner of Chris-
and heathen folk congregated
floating
wide at the
in
these great
Noah's arks, but never a row of Polish Jews.
85
IN THE LEVANT.
Hands,
them
face,
garments,
everything about
beards,
vras Isaheau colour.
In these days the Levantine steamers exhibit a

curious
mixture of people, a sort
picture or
off
miniatm-e
Half
microcosm of the Levant world.
the quarter-deck
railed
of
for
turned into a hyptethral harem,
is
accommodation
the
of
the
ladies
some great pasha going down to Rhodes or Syria

to grind his subjects, or up to Constantinople to
bribe his way into advancement or out of a scrape.
This chancel is guarded by a row of black eunuchs.
The Turkish ladies not having often the chance of
being so gazed upon, make the most of the opporof
tunity,
and contrive to
let
the breeze get under the
corner of their veils from time to time, recovering

" et
the truant folds with a feigned confusion
;
se cupit ante videri."
quarter-deck are
vellers,
On
On
the opposite side of the
the European and American tra-
with beards in various stages of development.
the other side of the funnel
generally a
eating
of deck passengers,
of Turkish troops,
all
with unanimous breath.

fanatical-looking
is
an unclean mass
company or
garlic
tAvo
and bread
Dotted about are grim
Turks, with green
turbans
and
cut, men of
who would delight to pound a
Christian in a mortar and make him into ink to
write verses of the Koran with, if they could. Then
there are generally two or three German pilgi'ims,
who have begged their way on foot from Cologne
shaved heads, and beards of a severe
the ancient regime,
and are going back with a certificate

to show that they have been there, to display in
to Jerusalem,
86
In a corner may be one
native Deutscliland.
tlieir
going up in irons to
or two pirates or brigands
Constantinople to be executed, or to buy
may
out of prison, as the case
phenomena that
chief
little
way
These are the
turn.
strike a stranger,
wonderful to think that this
tlieir
and
it
is
world, composed
of such antagonistic elements, should live so peaceably on board without diplomatic or consular inter-
vention to settle their disputes.
week very
I have been spending a
my
friend
embassy
agi'eeably with
Mr. Hughes, one of the attaches of the
We
at Constantinople.
made a
three days'
excursion into the interior of the island on mules, for

the purpose of exploring
situated between the
Mount Olympus, which
two great harbours of
The
or lero and Kalloni.
first
Olivieri
part of our route lay
across the northern shore of Port

soil
is
Olivieri,
where the
a rich alluvial deposit, covered with most
is
luxuriant vegetation,
Indian corn,
millet,
ffrowingf intermixed Avith all
manner
olives,
of rank herbage
and rushes, a sign of neglected agriculture and want

This district has always fever hanging
of drainage.
about
it
in
summer.
From
this
place to Ayasso
the road ascends gradually, winding along ravines.
The
variety
of
in
trees
these
glades
forms an
agreeable contrast to the district round Mytilene,
where
the
monotony of
ohve-tree
fatigiies
its foliage.
We
the eye
amphitheatre
way
at
a kind
of
halted on our
a most picturesque spot called Carina3,

natural
from the
with a large
square tank,
through which flowed the most abundant and limpid

water
all
round were giant plane-trees, with trunks
IN
twisted
we
into
THE LEVANT.
87
thousand fantastic
sat for a while,
fountain,
and
was that
this place
Here
forms.
and dipped our crusts in the
thought
was
what a blessed thing
it
beyond the reach
ot
far
cockneys, and that its silence was never profaned

by the sound of champagne-corks and the din of
knives and forks rattling against the sides of the

pigeon-pie of European pic-nics.
We
arrived at Ayasso just after sunset.
It is a
large Greek village, planted in a hollow, with hills

all
The
round.
streets are narrow, precipitous, dark,
\nih a gutter of very black
mud
in the middle,
a small causeway for foot-passengers on each
Overhanging wooden houses nod

the way, and intercept
narrow
strip.
all
and
side.
at each other across
the blue sky except a
Hence, the place has something of
the character of a European to^vn in the Middle
Ages, only ^nthout the rich carving on the wood-
We
work.
asked for the konak, or
of the Aga, and after mounting

case,
the
slippers
steps
of
his
of which were
retainers,
chamber of that great
Aga
is
official
residence
a narrow
stair-
covered with the
entered
the
presence-
The
functionary.
village
a sort of reduced copy of the great Pasha
of his island, and his konak
of the konak of the capital.
is
a rude imitation
The
salJe de reception
room with no furniture in it chairs

and tables are Frank innovations, only to be met
with in towns like Mytilene. Along one side rims a
is
a large square
divan, above which the whole wall
is full
of Avindows.
In the corner of this divan sat the Aga, a keen,

shrewd, good-looking man, of about
fifty,
with a
88
TRAVELS
very good address,
DISCOVERIES
AJSTD
talking
could not speak Turkish.

letter,
I presented the Pasha's
which he read three times with profound
attention
he then sent for the Greek primates of
the village,
to the
Greek to those who
who
him what the aldermen are
are to
Lord Mayor, and
for the fourth time
the mandate, explaining
its
purport in Greek,
the Pasha had ordered the primates
Consoles Bey and his

every possible attention
he read
how
give the
to
fi-iend
from the Embassy
how
was the duty of the
it
whole village of Ayasso, collectively and individually,

to devote themselves to our service during our stay.
Then we were
whom
also
billeted for the night
had a
letter
of
on a Greek, to
We
adjourned to his house with the Aga.
very clean, neat
little
and
introduction,
found a
room, with the same divan
and windows on one side, and wainscot with vast

cupboards and closets all round. The sides of the
room were ornamented with very quaint
paintings,
such as the Greek village folk delight
flowers,
in,
strange animals, aud in one compartment a very
pecuhar view of Constantinople, treated in a S}anbolical
manner, the whole shipping of the Golden
Horn being
indicated by a single vessel, the Seraglio
Point by a cypress-tree, and the rest of the city being

represented in an equally abbreviated form.
When we were installed on the divan, with the

Aga between us, the Greek primates at the sides of
the room, the wife of our host waiting on us, with pipes
and coSee, and the cavasses and retainers ranged

at a respectful distance near the door,
ceedingly happy.
we
felt
The Aga was very agreeable
ex-
and
89
THE LEVANT.
IN
the Gi'eek lady kept bringing coffee, and Turkish
sweetmeats, and large tumblers of water, and slices

of water-melon, and grapes, and pipes, to our hearts'
content.
we wanted something more substantial, and

expressed a wish for some supper. After about half
Still
an hour of
this light skirmishing witli
water-melons
and such things, the main body of the banquet was
brought up.
illustrious strangers,
one
for
the
appeared on a dish by himself
unsubdued by the stewpan, stood out
leg
like a bowsprit,
traveller
immolated
sturdy cock,
who
toughness
fatal sign of
arrives in a
Greek
but the
village after sunset,
without previously announcmg his arrival, must not
hope to find meat

macaroni,
Then
to masticate.
fit
salt-fish
in
there was
a semi-cooked state, cheese
made of goat's milk, more water-melons, more coffee,

more pipes, more sweetmeats. We ate our way very
philosophically through all this, more to please our
host than ourselves, and then adjourned to two very
comfortable beds.
Greek bed
bersome
thing
is
to
not such a troublesome, cum-
European bed.
prepare as a
The lady of the house simply opens a cupboard,

takes out
a mattress, a pair
yourgans or
quilts,
There
clean floor.
we
articles, or
or
money
use,
sheets,
and two
which she lays on a scrupulously

is
the bed
needs no other preparations

such as
of
all
for jugs
are unknown.
even a tooth-brush,
ready.
and basins,
Neither of these
is
to be got for love
in the to-rni of Mytilene,
direct trade with Europe.
The room
though
it
has a
TRAVELS M^D DISCOVERIES
90
Next morning we got up very
and started
Mount Olympus,
in a large party to ascend

is
early,
wliich
tte highest point in the island, and according to
the Admiralty chart,
3,080 feet above the level of
is
We were escorted by the Aga, the primates,
the sea.
our host, and a whole heap of attendants on
man
One
foot.
carried the Aga's umbrella to keep the sun
another his gun, another his pipe

procession, as
it
wound up
and
all
The scenery
beautiful.
and the whole
the steep mountain-path,
reminded me of an Assyrian
satrap,
off,
with a king or
frieze,
his followers in single

in ascending
this
file.
mountain
is
most
We passed through endless glades of chest-
nuts and walnuts, the vegetation becoming gradually

more scanty as we approached the summit, which
The ascent from

Ayasso occupied about an hour and a half. The
view from the top of Mount OljTnpus is very fine
is
a sharp ridge of white marble.
half of the island, stretched out like a

feet,
map
at our
Scio and other islands in the distance, and a
magnificent line of headlands and bays marking the
On
opposite coast of Asia Minor.
Athos can be seen from
On
oiu"
this
a very clear day
mountain.
way down we stopped
a charming sort of kiosk.
It
to breakfast in
was the
first
time
that I had ever seen a regular Oriental banquet.
The lamb roasted whole by

the
vast
plane-tree
under
fire in
which
the open
we
air,
reclined,
with grapes hanging from every branch, the layer

of aromatic
herbs which formed
under the lamb, were
all
the
table-cloth
refreshing novelties to
senses blunted by civilization.
We
had knives and
91
IN THE LEVANT.
but the
forks,
Aga
there was none
each
Carving
ate with his fingers.
man made
a sea vo into the
lamb wherever he thought proper
and,
looking
at the question with English eyes, I certainly felt
that this
mode
of eating produced a great waste
raw material. But it was all Homeric, and

the air was so fresh, and the herbs so aromatic,
that much in the manner of feeding passed unobserved, which would not be pleasant to look at
Then we had \nne of the place,
in a dining-room.
which seemed to us, in such an atmosphere, quite as
good as the best Bordeaux, and abundance of caviare
and water-melons and grapes. The Greeks ate their
of the
breakfast at a separate table

their fasts, their
and
fruit.
the day being one of
meal consisted entirely of caviare
After a certain
number
of pipes,
we got
under weigh again, and taking leave of our hospitable

friends
till
the evening, started in a
new
direction to
see a place called Pyrrha, on the eastern shore of
Port Kalloni, the
site
of one of the ancient cities
of Lesbos, where the Greeks told us

â.6[jutra,
"wonders."
town was swallowed up by the

of
it
should find
sea.
Strabo speaks
as destroyed, all but the Trpoda-rsiov, or suburb,
which was
of
we
Pliny mentions that this
its
still
inhabited in his
ancient copper coinage are
time.'^^
still
Specimens
extant.
modern name and other circumstances fix

the entrance of a small bay. The position
its
is
The
site at
marked
Pyrrha in the Admiralty chart. No. 1654, but

not in the larger chart, No. 1664. Our I'oad lay
as
across the neck of land which sejDarates Port lero or

Olivieri
from Port Kalloni, and was the roughest I
92
ever travelled on
but Mytilene mules are capable of
crawling up any path where a
man can
requiring the assistance of his hands.
climb without
After passing
through some very picturesque well-wooded ravines

near Ayasso,
we came
to veiy high
which produces a
with a forest of the pitch-pine,
The average quan-
good deal of pitch every year.

tity of this article
aboiit
exported from the whole island
The
330 tons.
ground covered
is
fallow deer runs wild in these
forests.
After passing through this forest,
we came upon
the vast and silent harbour of Kalloni, which reposes

like
an inland lake within an amphitheatre of moun-
tains,
and with hardly a
This port
is
sail
enhven
to
its sm'face.
entered by a narrow strait called in
antiquity the Buripus of Pyrrha.
On
arri^^ng at our destination,
we found
that the
Thaumata did not amount to very much, thoiigh

there was enough to indicate the site of an ancient
Massive foundations running into the sea
city.
are probably the remains of an ancient mole to protect the harbour.
On
a rocky
hill
overlooking the
shore are steps and seats cut in the rock, a sure

sign that the Greeks have been there.
was probably an acropolis with

shore of the
Here then
temples.^*
On
the
Gulf of Kalloni, at the distance of
three-quarters of an hour to the S.E. of Pyrrha,

is
a place which
of Temenos.
ground
We
is
still
retains
the
Hellenic
Here are ancient foundations
strewn wdth fragments
name
;
the
of red pottery.
returned in the evening to Ayasso, and
home
again in the morning, having taken an affectionate
93
]N THE LEVANT.
leave of our
The Greeks
hosts.
not accept
w-ill
for this sort of hospitality, but tlieir servants
money
and children do not object to a little halshish ; so

the expense of board and lodging conies to about
the same as at an inn.
VIII.
November
from a very
HAVE just returned
10, 1852.
inteiêsting
excursion in the western part of the island, the

object of which
was
now
to visit Bi'esos,
Ereso, the
Sappho, and which is on
birth])lace of the celebrated
This route gave
the S.W. coast of Mytilene.
me
an opportunity of stud\dng the peculiar configuration

of the island, which gives a great variety of scenery.
On
the S.W. side
that
is,
on the side most distant
from the opposite Asiatic coast

harbours,
or rather
gulfs,
are
the two vast
and
Olivieri
Kalloni,
which I have already mentioned, and which run so

far inland as to leave a very
middle of the island.

gulfs
is
fertile,
narrow isthmus in the
At the head
of each of these
a level plain formed by alluvial
but marshy, and
full
of malaria.
deposit,
Between
these two gulfs the hills rise very abruptly, forming
a rocky isthmus, of which the part I have traversed

contains forests of the pitch-pine, where are wild
deer.
In these pine forests the
with the aroma of the pitch,
The
first
day
is
proceeded
air,
most
impregnated
refreshing.
from
Mytilene
to
TKAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES
94
and halting
village of Kalloni,
tlie
over the mountains
wild
for Ereso.
and
a picturesque
and barren
thei'e
next day by an
the
started
night,
for the
road
inland
ascended from
thickly-wooded country to
which runs
mountain-tract,
a
all
throue-h the western half of the island as far as
Cape
sides,
Sigri.
As we climbed the
vegetation gradually
summit
steep mountain-
wheehno- round and round
almost -ndthin
in the air
From
the opportunity of our arrival to escape.

is
^'^.Utures
unhappy partridge, which took
shot, waiting for an
high ground
At the
disappeared.
saw about twenty
of the pass I
this
an extensive view over the western
part of the island, with Cape Baba, the ancient Lec-
tum Promontorium,
in the distance
The
Tenedos on the other.

bracing;
in
villages, full
the
wondering eyes, as
European
and twenty minutes

K}'ihera,
where
half an hour
who gazed upon us with
At the
fi'om
was
among
and
they had never before seen a
if
traveller.
here was
air
side,
deliciously
were strange antiquated
valleys
of Turks,
on one
distance of two hours
Ereso
is
the
village of
told that at the distance of
the
was a place
hills
called
Tiranda, where inscriptions were to be found.

I arrived at Ereso full of hope, expecting,
fi'om
find
some
the remote situation
remains of
that
about
the
of this
ancient
fifteen
years
place,
city.
ago
to
But
there
was
had
told
been
some of which had been carried

away by a French traveller, and that the monks
of a neighbouring monastery had taken the inscrip-
many
tions
sculptures,
and ground their colours
-n-ith
the inscribed
95
iN THE LEVANT.
sui'face
there was
till
nothing
Imagine the
left.
pages of ancient history ground
away
make
to
colours wherewith to daub a wretched image of the
Panagia
However, I
a very inteUigent
found
Greek monk acting as schoolmaster, who had

lected a
number of fragments
He
house.
Athens.
wild a place
is
a rare
He
the
monk
and had studied at
man
to find such a
in so
thus enlightened by education
phenomenon
me
took
of inscriptions in his
wâs a fair scholar,
was astonished
col-
in this part of the Levant.
to see the Acropolis of Ereso, of which
situation
is
summit of a rock
most
crowns
the
rising straight out of the sea.
An
striking.
old Genoese castle, called
It
Pateo Castro, now occu-
pies the site of the Hellenic citadel.
At
the west end of the castle
part of an Hellenic
is
wall built of squared blocks, the inside filled with
well-compacted rubble.
In the same part of the castle

cistern
At
is
a tunnel-roofed
which seems medigeval.
the foot of the Acropolis, on the E. side,
piece of ancient wall,
is
composed partly of polygonal,
partly of isodomous blocks, built on the rock, which

is
cut in beds to receive
is
27
One
it.
piece of this wall
feet in length, its present height is 8 feet,
the upper
com-ses have been
piece, a
few
and a
third,
feet distant, is
well, the sides of
masonry.
The
is
which are
fields
Another
18 feet 8 inches in length,
7 feet 6 inches.
the base of the Acropolis
removed.
but
On
tlie
W.
side of
mouth of a square
formed of good Hellenic
the
on the N.
with fi:'agments of ancient pottery.
side
are strewn
Many columns
96
have been taken away from this place on account of

its vicinity to
the sea.
After visiting the Acropohs, I explored a
met with
roofless chapel, such as are to be
little
over
all
the island, and which always contain relics of ancient

buildings and
of
found
covering
Much
large marble slab.

obliterated,
Here
sculptures.
interesting inscription
three
a very
of a
sides
was unfortunately
it
but on one side was a
from Kinsr
letter
Antigonos (probably Gonatas) respecting the

turn of certain exiles to
banished in the time
As
was staying
of Alexander
in the house
re-
who had been
Eresos,
the
Great.^'
of the chief
man
of the village, a worthy Greek farmer, I asked him
whether I might have
me
that I
we
step
was
free to take
schoolmaster.
assured
and as a preliminary
it,
decided on removing
the Greek
He
this inscription.
it,
into the house of
therefore proceeded,
with a yoke of oxen, to the place where

lying, in order to take possession of
attempt roused
First, the
all
Turkish
manner of dormant
Aga
functionary wished to
from
from
my
I
all
the
in
Pasha,
opposition.
know whether
on
my
authorizing
in this
This enlightened
or under the stone
opposition
was
who happened
of the district,
to be in the village, interfered.
any treasure
and
it,
it
there
but desisted
producing
me
was
to
letter
prosecute
researches for antiquities in the island wherever
liked.
My
next
opponent was the proprietor
of the field in which the church

inscription, according to
was
situated.
The
my
friend
the opinion of
the primate, was the property of the village, and
might
me
be given to
tlierefore
manor took
97
THE LEVANT.
IN
but
tlie
lady of the
a different view of the case, and denied
the right of any one to remove
with the yoke of oxen,
On my
it.
arrival
found her already in pos-
session of the field of battle, seated on the stone
She was
the apse of the roofless chapel.
itself, in
about
lady
with very
forty,
modelled after the
classical type.
regular
features,
At the
sight of
our sacrilegious party she became animated with

the
fury
down
to
of an
She bowed
ground before the stone at
the
twelve times, kissing
time
Pythoness.
ancient
then she
lit
it,
least
and crossing herself each

and burnt incense, to purify
fire
the place from our pi-esence, and wnth great horror

flung out of the sacred precinct
some chicken-bones,
the remains of our yesterday's luncheon.
the
first
suasion,
that she
and
in
was
utterly
my despair
saw from
beyond the reach of per-
having exhausted
my little
stock of Greek, began to talk English to her, a
way
suiê
to aggravate an angry native in the Levant.
They always imagine that the unknown words which

the stranger utters are spells and curses which, from
not knowing their import, they cannot meet with

counter
sjaells
less to prevail
an attempt to
and counter curses.^"
Finding
with the lady in possession,
my
enlist in
it
next
hope-
made
favour the two cavasses
by the mention of the magic word haksJiish. But

the opposition which I had to encounter was based
on two motives which
it
was impossible
vent by stratagem, or set aside by force.
to circum-
The Turks
having the idea that the stone contained treasure,
wanted to smash
it
up
the
woman imagined
it
to
be
98
palladium
the
of the
and
cupidity
chajDel
little
fanaticism,
broke
and between
down
my
in
attempt, and finding nothing to be done, beat an
me my yoke
ignominious retreat, taking with
of
oxen.
It
is
to
may be
not uninteresting to you to
know what
the present aspect of the land which gave birth
The country about Ereso
Sappho.
tainous
in the valleys there is rich land
No
with corn and wine.
olives are
moun-
is
abounding
grown
here,
and
the inhabitants being forced to labour constantly for

their bread, have
more industrious habits than in

The lowlands are not
the districts near Mytilene.
much
squeezed up into ravines as
as they are about
Mytilene, but expand into small plains, so that there

is
more space and elbow-room
most parts of the
island, I
were in a rocky prison,
in the landscape.
always
fi-om the
feel
pent
want of level ground
The mountains are of considerable

into most picturesque and abrupt
for exercise.
height,
rising
forms.
The rocky crags near the summits
mountains are
In
iip as it
full
of these
of caverns and holes, the fast-
nesses of the eagle and the hawk,
who
are seen for
ever wheeling in mid- air, watching for the partridge

in the valleys below.
strelsy is
The
voice of
ôlian min-
heard no more in the birthplace of Sappho,
but the echoing
hills
resound with the cry of shep-
herds calling to each other, the bleating of new-born

lambs, and the melodious tinkling of thousands of
sheep-bells.
The verdure
at this season is as fresh
and tender as that of the spring

Theocritean landscape was
all
in
England.
This
the more agreeable to
99
IN THE LEVANT.
our eyes from the promise
it
gave of abundance of
milk and cream, such as Polyphemos offered and
Om'
we were not
In this hope
Galatea rejected.
appointed.
dis-
Greek primate, gave
host, a jolly old
us a delicious supper of homely but choice fare. Here

we
tasted the protoijala, or
first
birth of the lamb.

taste
at Ereso
like that of
also
is
excellent.
Greek poet, Archestratos, who
It
to
buy
with a
seems to
for
an old
an epic poem
wi'ote
on the art of cookery, says that,

it is
the
Devonshire cream.
have been highly esteemed in antiquity,
bread,
aft-er
It is excessively thick,
and consistency
The bread
milk
first
if
the gods eat
would send Hermes
to Breso that they
it.*^
"We found
in
Ereso and the adjoining villages
simpler manners and a more freehanded hospitality
The women would
than anpvhere else in Mytilene.
be perfect studies for a painter.

all
go to church
^âth
white
deep crimson border, which
reminded
the veil
We
is
me
On
veils
fall to
festivals,
they
edged with a
They
the waist.
of the figiires on Greek vases
and
doubtless a relic of ancient costume.
retm-ned
home
fi-om
Ereso along the shore,
over a road which can only be described as a rocky

ladder, a goat-path,
worn by
dint of thoroughfare
into a mule-path, along Avhich the iron-shod hoofs
of these persevering creatures have probably trod

for 2,000 years.
In the middle of our journey, we came to a strange

outlandish village
called
Mesotopo,
or
Half-way
Here we halted for the night, and found a

large party seated round a blazing hearth, over an
H 2
House.
100
excellent
supper of fried
women
time I ever saw Greek
hand anything
to a
man have
woman.
less
in the
class
first
the civility
happened that we
It
were here the guests of people

than the bourgeois
was the
admitted to the ban-
quet with the men, or saw a

to
It
fisli.
sophisticated
Mytilene villages
generally are.
The house consisted of one long, large apartment

at one end was the fireplace, at the other a raised
platform, separated by a wooden railing from the
rest,
forming the sleeping-place of the family
walls were solidly built of
of household use hung
and every
stone,
on them
the
article
everything was
This kind of house
scrupulously neat and clean.
seems to be preferred in the agricultural districts of

Mytilene, as the pijrgo
is in
the olive districts.
The supper was put upon a
tray,
which was
sat
on the
floor.
Bach woman
are welcome," to the strangers,

herself instead of saying grace.
on the
all
in succession, before
either eating or drinking, said, Kalos ormile,
sitting
bal-
We
anced on a small table turned upside down.
" You
and then crossed

These women,
floor with their children in their arms,
formed very graceful compositions, reminding me of
many groups
On
in ancient art.
the coast, in the direction of Ereso, at the
distance of half an hour from Mesotopo,
church called Miltane.
Here
On
the shore, in
direction, at the distance of one
a half from Mesotopo, and
Campos Krousos, has been
a ruined
are foundations of an
ancient wall, but no inscriptions.
the same
is
near a
hour and
place
called
a square tower called
101
IN THE LEVANT.
The
Palaio Pyi'g'o.
base, which
28 feet by 29
sures
remains, mea-
still
The blocks
feet.
are well
squared, and in dimensions about 3 feet 8 inches by
From
1 foot 8 inches.
basement Avould
this
may have been
my
by
told
the character of the masonry,
appear to
be Hellenic,
rebuilt with old materials.
or
was
guide that some years ago, a quantity
of Mediaeval coins (Florea) was found in the
Campos
Krousos, near this P^-rgo.
On
hill
near this spot
George, in which
column,
mth
is
the
church of
St.
found part of a cylindrical
an inscription
in
Latin containing the
names of the emperors Constantine the Great and

and Constans.
We returned from Mesotopo along the shoi-e of
the Gulf of Kalloni.
The road by which we passed
out of Mesotopo appears, from the great size of
his sons Constantine
the blocks of which
paved way.
it is
Opposite to the small islands at the
entrance of the gulf
hand
is
This wall
is
a piece of wall on the
called
Makra, and
distance of aliout ten minutes from
14
feet.
may be
We
of
at the
its
It
height
second wall at right angles to
it
traced for 49 paces.*"
returned along the
Kalloni by a
road.
is
the sea.
runs east and west for about 60 paces

is
left-
composed of large polygonal
side of the road,
blocks.
composed, to be an ancient
N.W.
shore of the Gulf
most picturesque and
Here the wild fowl were
The
partridges at Ereso.
beautiful
as plentiful as the
sea throws up on the
beach a great variety of marine products, such as

sponges and mollusca
the abundance of which in
102
this gulf is noticed
by Aristotle in
his History of
Animals/^
We returned
home by Kalloni, at the head of the

Everywhere we found very comfortable beds
gulf.
mattresses on clean floors, and good wholesome food.
The
Gi'eek host has
except that which
no ideas of any
hospitality,
the animal wants.
satisfies
Im-
mediately after supper, the mattresses are brought
and
in
his guest is expected to
consequence
year
is,
The
go to bed.
that the night at this season of the
of the most wearisome length.
is
IX.
ilvTiLENE, December
As
yet I have been unable to
cursions,
on account of the
make
6,
1852.
distant ex-
difficulty of finding a
trustworthy person to leave in charge of the ViceConsulate in

there
is
my
absence.
In Levantine consulates
usually an ofiicer called a CahceUiere,
who
acts as the Consul's secretary, keeps his archives in

order,
and acts as
his ofiicial deputy.
ceUieres are generally Levantines, and

to
meet
such an
These Canit is difficult
Ts-ith
a genuine Englishman qualified for
office,
which requires a knowledge of Greek
and Turkish, and
familiarity with the ideas, customs,
and forms of legal procedure
in the Levant.
I have,
however, lieen so fortunate as to secure the services of
Mr.
J. Blunt, the
son of H. M.'s Consul at Salonica,
IN
who,
103
THE LEVANT.
having been educated
after
had the benefit of two years'
EngUmd, has
in
He
under his father's eye, at Salonica.

jiromising
young man, and
He
enlivened us here.
and
addi'ess,
me
represents
is
a very
in all ordinary
shown
that the Pasha,
trying to chcumvent and thwart

arrival,
is
his arrival has greatly
cases at the Mejlis, where he has

tact
training,
careful ofl&cial
me
so
much
who has been

ever since
my
beginning to act in a more straightfor-
ward manner.
had to appear
Very soon
in court
after Blunt's arrival,
he
on behalf of an Ionian, who
The debtor pleaded
claimed a debt fi'om a Rayah.
that he had discharged the debt, and produced a

receipt duly signed,
which the creditor declared
to
The court was disposed to believe

the Rayah, when Blunt very ingeniously pointed out
be a forgery.
that the receipt, which professed to have been written

several years ago,
it
was on stamped paper
was well known that stamps
introduced by the Porte

the date of the receipt.
admitted after
place,
this.
till
whereas
for receipts
were not
the year subsequent to
Of course the forgery was

Such frauds constantly take
and are never punished
as
crimes
but
if
detected, the perpetrator loses caste, not on account
of his villany, but because of the clumsiness of his
manoeuvre.
many
my new
After living in very inconvenient lodgings for
months, I have at length installed myself in

house, which has been built for
with the agreement that I

of
32
am
me by
to
a rich Greek,
pay an annual rent
for it as long as I reside in Mytilene.
After
duly concluding this agreement, and completing the
104-
house, the landlord, like a true Mytileniote, wanted
me
and as our contract was

not on stamped paper, and was drawn up by an
amateur lawyer, he might have tried litigation, had
pay a higher
to
rent,
he not been afraid of going to law with a British

In writing the receipt, he forgot to sign
consul.
his
name
he was reminded.
till
Such oversights
are very characteristic of Mytilene.
The
other day, I received a letter from the Pasha,
which he wi-ote with the greatest unwillingness,

under threat of an appeal to Constantinople. He,
too,
was
as careless as
my
friend the
sent the letter forgetting to put his

it
official
for
he
seal to
This oversight was of course detected at once
the Pasha then
The house
my
for,
made
will
ultimately
The
endow her
architect
Maestro Luca.
me
is
is
become the dower of
now about
by a custom very general
riage, to
a lame apology.
landlord's daughter,
pelago, every father
to
Greek
eight years old
in the
bound, on his daughter's mar-
Avith
a furnished house.**
a native genius,
When
Turkish Archi-
I first
who
is
styled
asked him to submit
the plan of the house, he stooped
down and
drew on the ground with a bit of stick a few rude

lines, marking out the position of the different rooms.
The foundations were then laid out, and the walls
built, entirely by rule of thumb, without either plan
The result is much better than

The house is airy, spacious, and not
or specifications.
I expected.
uncomfortable, notwithstanding the rudeness of the

carpentry.
No
shut properly.
doors or windows in Mytilene will
Locks and hinges are of the clum-
THE LEVANT.
IN
such as we should hardly think good
kind,
siest
enough
The wood
an outhouse iu England.
for
employed
] 0,")
is
an inferior sort of deal, impoi'ted from
the opposite coast of Asia Minor,

finished in a
full
of knots, and
rough unsightly manner.
The windows
have no leads, and come dowai with a run

frames are so exceedingly slight, that this
formidable an evil as
more
are
Av-indows
shutters,
Now
but the
is
not so
They
would seem to you.
frames of a cucumber-bed than
like the
;
it
but they are protected outside by green
which bear
all
the brunt of the wind.
we have fairly installed ourselves in

our barrack, we feel very comfortable, according to
our rough notions of comfort. We live in a room
that
with a large table and a bookcase, botli of unpainted

deal, a pair of rocking-chairs,
an enormous
fireplace,
on which the ligna
repose, without either fender,
The
fuel is olive-wood,
split
is
sitjjcr
foco
grate, or fire-irons.
into great logs,
yield a pleasant unctuous blaze.
room
one on each side of
which
In one corner of the
a large packing-case, lined with tin
serves as a store-room, where we keep
all
this
manner of
household things, locking them up after every meal

for
we cannot
servant,
trust anything in the hands of our one
a Mytileniote boy.
The house contains
neither carpets, curtains, nor sofas.;
climate reconciles us to the loss of
be indispensable in Europe.
wholesome
food.
am
but the
fine
much which Avould
Our great
deficiency is
at present without a cook,
having tried and dismissed three since I arrived at
Our meals are prepared at the house of

my Dragoman, who farms us at so much per diem.
Mytilene.
106
I notice that every
deteriorates a
ceive,
how
little in
this
I con-
descendant of
astute
the experiment on
deliberately trying
is
little
quantity and quahty.
that
therefore,
Pittacus
day the food suppUed by him
Englishmen can be
and how much
fed,
their patience will bear.
One
was brought
day, a fowl
i;s
noticed a certain discomposure in
general aspect
limbs were more than usually distorted
its
face ragged
absence of
and gritty
its
sur-
and there was a singular
There was,
gravy.
all
flavour about this fowl
We
for dinner.
its
too, a strange
but a good appetite does
not stop to speculate on such phenomena, and we

ate our dinner in unsuspecting confidence.
not
till
that in
many days
its
afterwards that
It
was
we were informed
passage to our house this unhappy bird
had been dropped
in the street gutter, picked
up
again by our Greek serving-boy, wdped, and replaced
minus the gravy.
in the dish,
Last
nio-ht
we had from
the
Dragoman our
usual
dinner of two flats, one of which Blunt declared to
be cat disguised as hare

the Mytileniotes
starved
but I assured him that

their cats
so effectually
would have been impossible to find any flesh

on then- bones. Blunt is a capital ally, particularly
that
it
for coins.
streets,
He
goes about
all
sorts of unfi-equented
hunting for antiquities, and
dra's\ang
down
on himself thereby many angry looks and inquiries

from jealous husbands and duennas.
" It is not coins you are looking for,
said an old
hag
to
'
him the other day
looking for black eyes."
pallikari,'"
;
" you are
The
(j.ixf'Oi-,
as tlie Greeks call Colnaglii,
not a bad hand
go out
long
hold
the
bargaining for a
at
parleys
low
stool,
the
address people in their
it,
rustic
his
in
succeed in this sort of
own way, smoke
natives,
with a cup
and a paper cigarette
offer
the
with
raised platform of
little
is
also
We
coin.
together into the villages, and
three
all
107
THE LEVANT.
IN
seated
kafe,
each on
of coffee in his
mouth.
traffic,
it
is
on
hand
In order to
necessary to
own language and
in their
out of their very dirty pipe if they
drink their coffee, and employ every art to
ingratiate
oneself with them.
Then, by degrees,
comes out the very information you are
in search of.
After you have sat for about an hour, and have in
demanded coins {inongoures, as they call them),

some fellow comes up and produces a battered Byzantine coin then comes another.
If you buy, the
mere sight of a piastre brings a whole crowd round
you.
Then the plan is, to get on your mule and
move a few yards towards home upon which the
vain
price instantly begins to
crowd gradually
fall.
You
ride on
the
yards fi'om the village,
about two hundred

you are entreated to buy the
particular coin which
you
tails
off,
till,
secretly wished to have,
but did not venture outwardly to show any anxiety

about.
few days ago our solitude was broken in upon
by two
travellers
who
crossed over from Assos on
a young Irishman and a somewhat apathetic and beery German fi-om Saxony, and
the opposite coast,
w^ho, being desirous of seeing
started on a
little
something of Mj-tilene,
tour with me.
The
first
part of
108
TRAVELS AND DISCOYEKIES
The day was lovely, the

saw an immense fish shaped
our route was in a caique.

sea perfectly calm.
like a carp leap
tmce
right out of the Avater, glitter-
ing in the sun like a mass of gold. We rowed to a

place called Yeni Liman, " new haven," on the N.
side of the island.
It
was the
first
time I had
The scenery was
an expedition in a caique.
and the weather so agreeable, that
made
so lovely,
could think
of nothing but that famous cruise of the god Bac-
Metamorphoses of Ovid, and
chus, described in the
monument
boat manned
sculptured on the frieze of the Choragic
of Lysikrates
by Tyrrhenian
overboard
how he
pirates
pTit to
how
sea in a
they tried to throw him
and how he then revealed himself as a
god, turned the mast into a vine, and transformed
the pirates into tunny-fishes.*^
It is in
such a climate
and on such a coast as that of Mytilene that these

old myths can be most thoroughly enjoyed.
We
slept the first night at the village of
matha, near Yeni Liman.
had a
Manda-
letter of inti'o-
duction to a very respectable old Greek gentleman,

at
whose door we knocked
The next day he

us
all
called
for lodging.
upon me, and embracing
very tenderly with
salute
apologized for not letting us in

of pirates.
He
at about 8.30 p.m.
answered not; so we went elsewhere
Probably this was a
on the cheek,
he was so afraid
])olite
manner of
declining the duties of hospitality.
About
half an
hour from Mandamatha
is
the
monastery of Taxiarches (the Archangel Michael).
The
walls inside
were covered with
all
manner of
paintings on tablets representing the patron saint
109
IN THE LEVANT.
In one place I remarked a napkin
of the clmrcli.
with a figure of the archangel embroidered in gold

this was,
and was told that
the embroidery was an offering
made by the women
on
of
I asked
it.
what
Mandamatha on
the feast of the saint to
whom
Here we have a custom

exactly analogous to the Athenian ceremony of
offering a new veil to Pallas Athene on the occasion
of her great festival, the ornaments of which were
the exploits of the goddess, embroidered by the
the church was dedicated.
Athenian maidens.
and
Thus,
Greek temple
the
in
Byzantine church, the local legend was
in the
recorded and celebrated in permanent monu-
first
ments of
and then
art,
ephemeral and perishable
and napkins.
materials, such as veils
On
in
the sea-coast, at the distance of one hoiu' and
a half to the S.E. of
Mandamatha, one hour from
Palaio Liman, and two hours and a half from Yeni
Liman,
is
a roofless
Stephen (Agios Stephanos).

is
flat stone,
on which
the people of some
dedicated to
church,
St.
In front of the altar
is
unknown
a Greek dedication by
place to a lady called
Allobogiona, the daughter of Deiotaros, in acknoAV-
ledgment of her services to the

seems to be
Close to Palaio Liman,
is
This
name
within the bay formed
by the promontory Tokmakia

Tomari),
city.
Galatian.*''
(called in the chart
a place on the shore
called Anoikto,
where are fragments of columns and foundations.

Here is a large well, which may be antique. The soil
is
very black.
This place
is
distant
two and a half
hours from Mandamatha, and two hours from Yeni
110
Near Anoikto is a village

where are ancient fragments.
called Marian-
Liman.
tliyia,
Immediately
to the S. of this the land bends in, forming a bay

will
be seen by the chart that this
is
it
the narrowest
part of the neck of land between the Gulf of Kalloni
Somewhere here then must

by Strabo on this coast
where the isthmus was narrowest. The fragments
and the N.B.
have stood
coast.
-i^giros, placed
which I noticed
at
Anoikto may belong to this place,
though Strabo speaks of it as only a
From Mandamatha we went

ancient
site of the
my
Methymna.
credentials from the
could not read,
village
to
xwfxTj*'^
Molivo,
Here I presented
Governor to an aga, who
retired Janissary.
He
sat turn-
ing the letter different ways in despair.

talk
could
no Turkish, and had no dragoman with
luckily I
had a
the town,
the
letter for the
me
Greek schoolmaster of
a pleasant, well-educated person,
gave us a very hospitable welcome.
who
The Greek
schoolmasters are always the most intelligent persons in the villages
their education at
Syra or
Athens gives them some glimmering of European
He showed me
ideas.
took
me
three
inscriptions,
which
a whole day to decipher ; one of them was
an alliance between the Romans and Methymnaâns,

but very mutilated
unpublished.**
There
is
I could hear of
a curious
geographers
these I afterwards foimd to be
called
no coins in the place.
harbour, what the ancient

a A(/Ji7)v xT^sia-rog, or " closed
little
unchanged from antiquity, with

an ancient mole, and the ships crowded together
like little boats.
I went over the fortress, which
port,"
evidently
was probably
it,
Ill
THE LEVANT.
IN
On
by the Genoese.
built
doorway, on
I noticed over a
entering
left-hand side,
tlie
a Byzantine inscription, recording that
had been
it
repaired.
From Molivo we went
to the neighbouring village
Petra, situated on the sea-shore, and

for
wine
that
" quam
still
MethymnjBO
celebrated
In the centre of the village
palmite Lesbos."
very steep rock, on the summit of which
de
carpit
is
is
a small
may have been an
Acropolis, and has

Here we were magnificently entertained by a rich but somewhat pretentious Greek, who had lived at Smyrna and Constantinople, and consequently had nothing of rural
This
church.
given the village
name.
its
simplicity in his manners.
Here, for the
time in travelling in Mytilene, I
first
enjoyed the luxury of a regular bedroom and a bedstead, instead of a mattress
on the
floor
the house was veiy well furnished,
still
but though
we found no
jugs or basins, only the old ewer and pewter basin
with a colander.
From Petra we went
across the narrow part of
the island to Port Kalloni, a beautiful ride.

slept at a place
tleman
to
called
whom
Agia Paraskeue.
had a
gathering, and,
in
rather a
reception;
chilly
eating up
all
his
her fowls,
we
wife
the more
still
The gen-
was out
letter
absence, his
felt
We
olive-
gave us
so as, after
hungry.
The
house where we lodged was an old one, and under

the whitewash
At
the
entrance,
of a very
savage
saw
traces
of
mural painting.
and immediately
live
dog,
over the den
was an old picture
112
of a house-doo- on the wall.
tlious'lit
at once
canem dog on the mosaic at the

entrance of a house at Pompeii; and, on inquiry,
was told that it was anciently the custom in
of
tlie
cave
Mytilene
paint
to
About ten
the house.
village is
(TTr^Xotiov
dog
over
entrance of
the
minutes'
walk from
this
a very curious chapel in a cave, "called
T%
'Ayiag
It is
Y\ci.^ri.fTx=\jr,g.
hewn
out of
the rock, and probably dates from an early jêriod

of Christianity.
Externally, the rock

facade, thus
is
cut
into
the form of a
In the centre
each side of which
sculptured in
an archway of inferior height,
is
relief,
square-headed doorway, on
is
^\^th
Inside
low mouldings.
is
an irregular oblong space about 21 feet long by

13 feet 6 inches wade.
A
A.
Rectangular
or
B.
(fpfi)',
pillars dividing
Altar, called ayuif
c. c.
Two
the chancel,
fi-oni the outer space, G.

/viz/ia,
and
t'lyi'a
rpaTTEâ.
small tables formed by rectangidar
projections.
D.
Apse.
E.
Small square window.
F.
Entrance.
Between the two

as a
veil.
pilasters
The opening,
AA
hangs a cloth used
partially concealed
by
this
veil,
IN THE LEVANT.
113
The
nltar is a square
called wpala
is
slab placed
v^'Kri.
On
on a coliimu.
the altar the priest's
Of
vestments lay covered with a cloth.
the tables
On
C C,
the one on the north side
it is
placed the sacramental cup, "Ayjov TroT-q^wv or
Aia-xoTTOTi^piov,
the figure of a saint
is
Saviour in
paintings
the
and
painted
In the walls
archway
in each
the ceiling
is
also
In the outer division or
covered with paintings.

the
the highest.
covered with a cloth.
are archways cut in reHef,
nave,
is
on the
centre,
our
represent
roof
surrounded
by the four
These paintings are very much blackThose on the

ened by the smoke of the lamps.
the rest have been
roof of the hieron appear old
Evangelists.
much
restored.
On
the
left
of the entrance
is
another small cave, called Apotheke, with niches
and a large stone seat cut
in the walls.
It is
now
nsed as a magazine.
From Agia
Paraskeiie,
we rode home by Pyrrha
and Ayasso.
X.
Mytilene, December
Sotie
in
weeks ago
I reported to the
15, 1852.
Embassy a
case
which the Pasha and Mejlis of Mytilene had
fused to punish a
Turk
for beating
an Ionian.
re-
In
consequence of this complaint, the Porte, at the

instance of Colonel Rose, sent Ali
Nehad
an imperial commissioner, to investigate

of mal-admiuistration of justice,
I
Bffendi,
this
charge
who has now been
114
and discoveries
tea\t:ls
He was
staying at Mytilene for several days.
for
some time secretary to tlie Turkish. Embassy at

Yienna, and speaks Frencli witli perfect fluency,
He has studied European
auv. very fair Englisli.
manners, and has consequently substituted for the
and
graceful
ceremony
coiirtly_
of
Turkish
de-
meanour a brusquerie which does not seem more

natural to him than the Em'opean uniform does to
modem
the
clear-headed
Tm-kish soldier
man
but he
of business, and
if
is
a good,
his professions
are to be believed, has severely reprimanded the
Pasha
for his
conduct in the case which I had to

Probably, the Porte took
refer to Constantinople.
advantage of
extort from the
this opportunity to
unlucky governor of Mytilene a heavy subsidy iu aid

of the distressed finances of the empire.
Effendi asked
complain
of,
me
and
Nehad
had any other grievances to
if
Ali
I pointed out to
him that the com-
mercial tribunal called Tijaret ]\Iejhs had never been
introduced into Mj-tilene, though
it
had now been
established in the j^rincipal towns of the Turkish
This court
empu'e.
Chi'istian
composed of Turkish and
members, of Avhom some are Ottoman
named by
subjects
is
the
Pasha,
others
chosen by their respective consuls.

is
to
restricted
Em-opeans
Its jmisdiction
purely commercial cases,
and
is
guided by rides derived from the French Code de
Commerce.
for
some
It has
years,
cantile world.
out
my
now been estabhshed
in
Tm-key
of great serAace to the mer-
and
is
Ali
Xehad Effendi
at once carried
suggestion, and ordered the Pasha to esta
blish this tribunal.
I took advantage of the
\'isit
IN THE LEVAl^T,
115
of the Imperial Commissioner to explore the citadel,
which
months
like
have been in vain trying to enter for six

but at his word the iron door flew open
commandant showed
magic, and the obsequious
us every part of the fortress.

interest except
is
is
as follows
foimd
of
little
an inscription, in which the name of
Francis Gatelusio
inscription
and the date 1373.
occiu-s,
This
over the gate called Orta Capou.
It
m^-ccclxxiii dii
prima
Ajirilis
inagiiilicus et potes dii

dfis fraiicLscus
ms.
ilus
elini
iusule
gatelus
.
met
et c fecit fieri
hoc edificium.
It is inscribed
on an oblong stone divided into four
compartments, thus
On the right a double-headed
spread eagle, crowned.
gram
family
Next a mono-
next the bearing of the Gatelusio
shield pc'iîlloune
lastly,
the
above inscription.
The Francesco Gatelusio mentioned

scription
we
was one of a noble Genoese
in this in-
family,
which
find in possession of -^nos, in Thrace, about the
middle of the 13th century.
By
a treaty
1352,
the Byzantine emperors ceded to the Genoese in
Pera many commercial rights and privileges, and
must have been very soon
after this
treaty
it
that
Francesco Gatelusio sailed from Genoa with two

well-armed galleys, on a roving expedition in the
Black Sea.
At Tenedos he
fell
in
with John Palseologos, then

1
116
at
TRAVELS AND DISCOVEBIES
war with
his father-in-law aucl rival
perial throne,
on the im-
John Cantacuzene.
Palaeologos at once engaged the Genoese adventurer in his service, and by his aid accomplished the
daring stratagem which gave him possession of Constantinople,
On
and dethroned Cantacuzene.
a dark
stormy
night
in
December, 1354,
a large ship was driven by the wind towards the

of
jDort
soldiers
HejDtaskalon
who guarded
Constantinople.
at
The
the tower at the entrance of
the port were induced to open their gates by the

declaration of the crew that their vessel carried a
valuable cargo of
ing,
oil
and was
in
danger of founder-
and that a large reward would be given
salvage.
their jiost,
The guard having been thus

two galleys following
for
inveigled from
in the
wake of the
merchantman landed a body of troops, who seized

the unguarded fortifications, and being joined by the
partisans of Palseologos, proclaimed liim emperor.
For
was rewarded with the

of Palseologos, and invested with
this exploit Gatelusio
hand of the
sister
the sovereignty of Mytilene as her dower.
He was
succeeded by his son Jacobo,
who
obtained
frgm the Sultan the ransom of the Count de Nevers
and other lords of France, taken prisoners at the

battle of Nicopolis, and conveyed them to Mytilene.
Froissart,
who
tells
us this, describes the wife of
the lord of Mytilene as " perfectly Avell-bred, and as

fully
accomplished as any lady in Greece, for in her
youth she had been brought up at the court of Constantinople, with the lady
Mary
of Bourbon."
He
adds, that she gave the French prisoners a most
117
IN THE LEVANT.
kind reception and clothed tliem with
and
new
fine
linen
cloth of Damascus."'
The Gatelusio family reigned in this island till

1462, when Nicholas, the last of the dynasty,
after
gallantly
surrendered
it
defending the
Mahomet
to
Mytilene,
of
castle
The dynasty of
II.
Gatelusio struck coins in silver and copper, which are

of great rarity, and have been only recently identified
by numismatists.
Since I have been there I have
succeeded in olitainiug a small collection of these

for the British
A portion
Museum.'"
Chan Koolessy is
the remainder by a moat. Here are
of the castle called
separated fi'om
three towers, connected by a curtain-wall.
western face of the centre tower
an oblong slab
is
On
inscribed with three escutcheons.
double spread eagle, crowned
In the
the
left
next, a cross between
four B's, the arms of the Pateologi
on the
right,
the coat of the Gatelusio already noticed."^
Below are
Roman
six
wth
slal)s,
reliefs
representing
gladiators, in a late coarse style.
apparent!}' on the
same
scale as
They
two or three
are
in a
small church at Thermae which I have already noticed (ante, p. 61).
Here and there I copied fragments of Greek inscriptions, and in the wall of a street was part of a
dedication to
castle is
Pompey with
the Kuli
the
Jamessy,
title
built
of Soter.
l^y
In the
Sultan
Ma-
homet II. in 1462, after the conquest of Mytilene.

This mosque has been so much repaired that verj"
little is left
There
is
of the original buiklino-.
another mosque in the citadel, called
118
Malimoud
Maliomet
Paslia Jamessy, after the grand vizier of
This seems to have been an ancient
II.
The
Byzantine chapel converted into a mosque.

castle is garrisoned
by a small force of native
commanded by a binbashi or colonel.

Ali Nehad Effendi invited me
to
militia,
Smyi'na to
see a recently-discovered amphitheatre outside the
" I must give you a guard of cavasses,"

he said, " otherwise the brigands will assuredly
town.
lay hold of you."
of
Smyrna
condition of the environs
something
is
merchants
The
can
quite
hardly walk
without being robbed.
to"\vn
has been brought about

the Turkish
This state of things
Europeans with the
certain
is
property, ramifying through
Nobody
by the imbecility of
partly,
the result of which
a conspiracy against
all
classes of society.
Smyrna knows whether
in
The
out of the
government, partly, I grieve to say,
by the complicity of
brigands
incredible.
yard
his servant, or
even his friends or acquaintances, are not in secret
communication with the

head of
this
terrible
Janni Katerji, the
band of robbers.
short time since three
Smyrna gentlemen, one
of them son of a rich Greek merchant, Avent out
shooting near a village where
many
Eiu-opeans have
houses, bi;t which has long been the resort of bri-
gands.
They had not gone
Janni Katerji,
who
day in disguise.
far before they
constantly visits
He
Smyrna
in
met
open
accosted the three unhappy
sportsmen very courteously, and asked them to have
some
coffee,
^Vlien they
according to the usual Eastern fashion.
had drunk their
coffee,
he informed them.
119
THE LEVANT.
witli the greatest civility, that the richest of the three
must pay a ransom of 700. The prisoners were

detained by the brigands about twelve hom^s, till the
money arrived from Smyrna, when they were released
vsdthout having experienced
any maltreatment. Wliat
makes the matter worse is that the father of the

gentleman who had to pay the ransom, had done his
best to persuade the governor of Smyrna to grant a
pardon to Janni Katerji, to take him into his service
and pay him so much a year,
neighbourhood of Sm}Tna
to
make
in order to
keep the
clear of brigands, in fact,
But the Turks
a Tm-kish Vidocq of him.
did not enter into the scheme, and so Janni Katerji

is still at large.
Yesterday we had an interesting ceremonial here.

The Ai'chbishop of Mytilene has just been made
a member of the Synod at Constantinople, a step
towards the higher
digniity of Patriarch.
he was installed in his now
office,
Yesterday
and bid farewell
The ceremony took place in

the principal church of Mytilene, when he was invested with his new robes, and very gorgeous they
to
his
were
flock
here.
consisting of a tiara covered with jewels, and
various robes
stiff
with gold
at his side
square piece of embroidery on which
hung a
he kneels.
was an
The ceremony
immense deal
of very
chanting
chorus of pigs and cats could not
have
robes,
lasted several hom-s.
nasal and
Th'st
most detestable
Then came the changing of

which was done by a number of priests. Each
been worse.
was blessed and kissed by the Ai'chbishop

before he put it on, and after each of these blessings
article
TEAVELS ANP DISCOVERIES
120
the priest kissed his hands.
After the robing, the
Archbishop sat on his throne, aud the

preacher,
who forms
liierolieri/x,
or
of the episcopal retinue,
jaart
ascended into a lofty pulpit and delivered an extempore discourse in very fluent and classical G-reek in
This gentleman wore a
praise of the Archbishop.
most picturesque black veil or
coif,
and a gown of the
same colour his action was rather singular, with

very much more gesticulation than is practised in our
northern climes. Then the Archbishop made a part;
ing speech in very beautifid language
shedding
which I reaUy believe to have been genuine,

anything of the kind can be warranted genuine in
tears,
if
the Levant.
forgive him,
had
At the
if,
close
he begged his flock to
he
and descending from the
in the course of his ministry,
failed in his
duty;
pulpit at the close of his discourse into the dense
crowd of
listeners,
he bowed to the ground three
times, turning his body in difierent directions, and

said,
"
My
times.
brethren,
my
l)rethren, forgive
me," three
After the Archbishop had with great dignity
gone through
this parting
ceremony, he retired with
the whole body of priests into what we should
call
the chancel, where the sacrament was administered

to him.
A long
silver crosses,
procession, flanked
by torches and
conveyed the elements into
sanctuary, where no layman
is
admitted.
this inner
The bread
was borne on the head of a priest, the cup in the

hand of another, both concealed from the gaze of
the multitude by a blue cloth spangled with gold.
IN THE LEVANT.
121
XI.
Mytilene, February 20, 1853.
Having occasion
to
go to Salonica
last montli
on
business, I took advantage of this opportunity of

visiting the
Troad and Gallipoh.
went straight by
steamer fi'om Mytilene to Salonica, where I passed

three days very agreeably with Mr. C. Blimt.
He
has
been for many years in European Turkey, and diu-mg

time has been actively
greater part of that
the
employed as British consul
first at
then at his present post at Salonica.
from
his
Hadrianople, and
I gathered
much
conversation as to the present condition
and prospects of Turkey, respecting which he does

not speak very hopefidly.
Salonica
is
a dirty to^vn,
full
of Jews,
who
emi-
grated to this place on their expulsion from Spain.

Its
commercial prospect has been steadily increasing
of late years, in consequence of the large quantity of
corn exported here.
The most
interesting relic of classical antiquity
This
the Incantadas.
is
the
name
is
given to part of a
colonnade apparently erected in the time of Hadiân.
The colonnade
is
supported by Corinthian columns
half-buried in the gTound, above which are square

pilasters, each of
sculptured in
which has on two faces a figure
relief.^'
Dionysos, Hermes,
Among
Ariadne,
Bacchante and a Victory.
these
figures are
Ganymede,
Leda, a
The name Incantadas
122
was given
(" the enchanted figures ")
to this colon-
nade by the Spanish Jews of Salonica, in whose

quarter
stands.
it
In a narrow,
dirty street
erected by Constantine the Great.
with two
On
low
friezes, in
the upper frieze
rehef,
stands an arch
still
ornamented
It is
one above the other.
represented the
is
Emperor
triumphal car, attended by a troop of cavalry,
in a
passing from a gate

his
right,
on
on
another
to
his left
within which appear buildings and
temple with a figure in
placed on a rock, probably
it
At each corner
representing the Acropolis.
is
Victory holding up a trophy.
The lower
a battle-scene, the con-
frieze represents
quered party being barbarians in the Dacian costume.
In the centre
is
figiu-e
on horseback, probably the
Emperor, attacking the leader of the barbarians,
who
is falliag
backwards, as
if
he had received his
In the right-hand corner
death-blow.
is
a figure
in a chariot rushing forward into the middle of the

fray,
a figure
is
In the left-hand corner
probably a Victory.
Avitli
shield,
on which
represented
is
in rehef a figure of Hercules, holding in his right
hand a
club,
After
and on
leaving
his left
Salonica,
arm a hon's skin.

we went to Gallipoli,
where we were comfortably lodged
M.
Sitrides,
intelligent
the
British
consular
and obliging person.
some interesting
about the town.
in the house of
antiquities
in
agent,
He showed me
house
his
The most remarkable
a group sculptm-ed in high
a very
relief, in
which belongs to a relation of M.
and
of these
is
white marble,
Sitrides.
It
123
IN THE LEVANT.
represents the interior of a cavern, on the right-
hand
side of
which
is
a small figure of Pan seated
in a niche in the rock,
Below him
is
an
nymphs arc
The sculpture
syrinx.
which Hermes and
lêfore
dancing.^^
three
good period of
and playing on the
altar,
of this relief appears to be of a
art,
and
execiited with a boldness
freedom which approaches to
Some
carelessness.
of the hands and arms of the figures are broken
but the scidpture
M.
Sitrides has
otherwise in good condition.
is
off,
his possession a spoon,
which
recognized as a rehc from the curious collection

of silver objects found at Lampsacus some years
ago, and of which a portion
is
now
in the British
These objects consist of spoons and
Museum.
other implements, wliich the inscriptions and marks
on them show to have been originally used in a
Pagan temple, and

crated and adapted
to have been afterwards reconsefor Christian worship.
these spoons in the British
Museum
saying of Solon, Ts'gjaa o oây |3;oto(o
saying of Bias of Priene.

sion of
M.
Sitrides
is
On one of
inscribed the
on another the
The spoon
in the posses-
had on the inside of the bowl
OCAKOPINeONENAIeYMOYKPAT
On one
side of the
on the
other
Of
SI
KopivSov
side
handle
CINnPIANAPOC,
OTANMIC.ICeH<l)IAHCOY.
svats,
(li>[J.ou
xfiaTssiv
ju.r[]i'(r^' (piT^Tj (TOit.
The saying
ascribed to Periander,
is
With
lace
Hsf>ia.voaog
SujaoLi
orav
xârsiv, here
elsewhere given to Cheilon."^
this collection of spoons was found a neckcomposed of portions of gold chain, alternating
12-i
and
rows of pearls
Avith
otlier
precious
stones,
linked together with hooks and eyes, which

in the possession of
me
M.
Sitrides.
He
also
is
also
showed
a brooch found in a tomb, formed of two hollow
cylinders of gold, plaited into a loop, terminating at

either
loop
ting
end
in
two hons' heads.
this appears to
In the centre of the
a mask of Medusa, in a lozenge-shaped set-
is
be Greek.
In the town I found an inscription,

Epic, and partly
column
Iambic verse, on the driun of a
gTound at the door of
set upright in the
The
a mosque."
colmnn
upside"
had
carefidly placed the
Piloted
by the dragoman of
Tiu-ks
down.
the consular agent, I attempted to alter
but the
first
stamped and raged at us with

dictions
my
so I
was forced
head between
letter upside
able position
down.
for
three
who were
manner of male-
my
knees,
inscription
reading every
days, during
the
greater
siurouuded by a dirty
only kept in check by the presence
years ago, a statue was

city,
all
It is said that,
some
found here representing
Kallipohs, with an inscription to
that effect, and that the Turks have walled

in
avIio
remained in this uncomfort-
of a cavass from the Pasha.
the ancient
position
tui'ban,
to copy the
part of which tune I was

rabble,
its
stroke of the pickaxe into the ground
brought forth a fanatic in a green
with
partly in
it
up
one of their fountains as the people in the Middle
Ages used to wall up naughty nuns.

The weather was too inclement
for
exciu'sions
the Chersonese, as I had intended, so we went

on to the Dardanelles, where we were hospitably
in
125
IN THE LEVANT.
received by Mr.
and
James
Calvert, the acting Consul,
his brother Frank.
We
took
lip
our (juarters in their country-house
at Renkoi, a village distant about three hours south
of the Dardanelles, and very near the sea-coast. This
house was built by Mr. Lander, the uncle of the

present Consul.
Here
European civihzation
Sir
Thomas Maitland,
I found a few stray relics of
such as a grim picture of
flanked by two family portraits
of beauties of George III.'s time,

bagatelle-table,
last year in
a pianoforte, a
some of the new books published
England, and various other
little
luxuries
unlcnown to Mytilene.
The Calverts carry on a considerable trade in vallonia.

The vallonia oak ((2uerc>is 7Egilop><) covers a
very large district in the Troad, and
is
the sake of the cup of the acorn, which

in preparing
and dyeing leather
in
cultivated for
much used
is
The
England.
acorns themselves are given to the pigs
but there
are such quantities that they are even burnt as fuel.
The
Calverts have two farms, or chifliks, Avhere they
The
have introduced two or three English ploughs.
wooden implement of the Turkish peasant has been

scratching the back of Asia Minor for many centuries, without ever disturbing the rich subsoil. The
Troad has been a most nes;lected and "wild res-ion for
ages
it.
but the Greeks are beginning
They
now
to cultivate
are gaining ground, as they do in
places along the coasts of Asia Minor, and the

are gradually giving
their estates for
tivate them.
way
most
Turks
before them, abandoning
want of energy and
of
means
to cul-
126
The country between the Dardanelles and Troy

is
covered with brushwood, without a village, and
Nothing breaks the
scarcely any cultivated land.
monotony of the horizon but the vast tumuh which

appear at intervals against the sky, marking the
In travelling through
grave of some Homeric hero.
we saw but few human
this country,
beings.
In-
stead of the paved roads of Mytilene thronged with
and greasy
fat
and with
all
home on
citizens riding
manner
their mules,
of traffic between the populous
villages, the roads in the plain of
Troy have long
some far country,

and an occasional hoi'seman armed to the teeth.
These are all the traces of luunanity visible, except
strings of camels on then' Avay to
the Sclavonian herdsman, who, with pistols in his
and accompanied by dogs more savage than

hunself, tends his vast flocks of sheep and goats;
belt
for
now, as in the time of Horace,

Pi-iauii
Paridisque busto
lusultat avmeutum.
We
made an expedition to the site of Troy, near

which we passed the night in a cluflik, or farmThence, we rode to Boimarhouse, of the Calverts.
bashi, and examined the rocky hill encircled by
the Mendere,
Troy.
If
we might
wliicli
this
hill
sites
has ever been an acropolis,
expect to find those fragments of very
early pottery which,

late
Chevalier claims as the site of
as
was
first
remarked by the
Mr. Burgon, are so abimdant on the Homeric

of Mycenaj
and
saw not a vestige
Tu-yns.^'*
in the
soil,
Of such pottery
nor could I
dis-
IN
127
THE LEVANT.
cover anywhere on the
rock those
sui'face of the
beds cut to receive the foundations of the
level
walls,
which may be generally traced out on the
sites of
the early Greek citadels, and the marks of
which are as imperishable as the rock
in
which they
are cut."
we went south to Chimenlai, a small village marked in the Admiralty

chart No. 1608, where we were most kmdiy and
After lea\ang Bournabashi,
hospitably entertained
husband
by a Turkish lady whose
vallonia to the Calverts.
sells
It Avas the
time I had ever lodged in a Tm'kish house.
first
Everything Avas excessively clean and comfortable.
We
were waited upon by a gentleman in the black
livery
more
which nature gave him.

especially
negroes,
are
Turkish servants,
good
waiters,
from
and uoiselessness of their movements.
the ease
Notwithstanding the superior wealth of Europeans

in the Levant, they are not so well served as the
Tm'ks, because no one but a Greek or Latin Clu'istian

will
condescend to be their menial.
the lady of the house,
moment
we
invisible
veil,
the
expressed her great regret
Such a want
coidd not stay another day.
of reserve
is
very unusual and utterly forbidden
the general laws of Turkish etiquette

.
till
of our jjarting, appeared at the window, and
throwing back her

that
who had been
In the mornmg,
l)y
but the lady
was neither yoimg nor pretty, and the Calverts are

friends of the family, and buy theii- vallonia
and so
;
we were
treated as enfants de la luaison.
The mosque
in this vUlage is built of large squared
blocks, evidently from
some ancient
building.
At
128
mosque was a Latin inscription containing a

Emperor Claudius, as a " Sodalis
Augustalis." On the lintel of a window was the fi-agthis
dedication to the
ment of another Latin inscription, containing part of

the name and titles of Nero."** In fi-ont of the mosque
was the capital of a large Doric column and a plain
marble
chau-.
We rode
on, the next morning, to a village called
Koushibashi in the mountains, half an hour south of

Cliimenlai and about three hours east of Alexandria
Troas. Near this are seven immense granite columns,

lying just as they were left rough-hewn
m the quarry,
from which they have been cut as neatly as

material was cheese or soap.
38
feet in length,
if
their
They vary from 37
and are about 5
to
feet 6 inches in
They appear to be Roman,

and to have been left rough-hewn to be conveyed to
some distant temple, and then polished. This accounts for their not being all exactly the same length.
The quarry fi'om Avhich they were taken lies to the
The marks of the chisel
north-east of the row.
remain on the vertical face of the granite in parallel
their greatest diameter.
horizontal grooves.
On
is
the road fi-om this quarry to Alexandi'ia Troas
another of these colimms, abandoned on
the sea. There

of these seven
is
its
way
to
something very grand in the aspect

sleepers
lying
so
silently
on the
granite bed out of which they were hewn.
To
the south of Koushibashi, om- road began to
ascend through a rocky and barren
district,
till
we
reached Chigri, a most ciu-ious acropolis crowning a
mountain, which, according to the Admuâlty chart,
IN
is
129
THE LEVANT.
1,648 feet above the sea.
about two hours
It is
south of the village of Koushibashi, and
is laid
down
in the Admuâlty chart, but has, I think, been very
The
noticed by travellers.
little
form, and
may
length
fi'om
is
The
round.
all
fortress
be compared to a
S.E. to
N.W.
more than a mile

gates flanked by towers.
it is
On
the N.E. side
is
of a rhomboidal
is
took us twenty
It
lono-.
Its greatest
kite.
minutes to walk right through

that
built of
polygonal courses, are nearly
blocks of granite in
perfect
walls,
it
lengthways, so
It
has a number of
a gateway which seems to
have been rather more accessible than the others,
and to which an ancient causeway
still
leads.
This
The doorway stands back

The
The
jambs of this doorway are still in position.
width between them is 9 feet. One of them has a
gateway
is
16 feet wide.
about 7 feet 7 inches behind the gateway.
deep horizontal groove for the

is
This gateway
bolt.
flanked on one side by a tower, on the other by
an abutment.
tions of
many
Within the walls are traces of foundahouses.
the ruins, and there
is
The
make
spring
still
an old well
flows mtliin
filled
up.
extent and the preservation of the defences

this
fortress
most
interesting
of early military architectm-e, the
example
work probably
of
The
walls terminate in natm-al
precipices at either end,
and great judgment has been
Hellenic settlers.
shown
in taking
advantage of every natm-al barrier
to add to the strength of the fortifications.
Thus the
precipices at either end are surmounted by vast
masses of rock which rise far above the walls, and
130
must
liave served the
purpose of watch-towers for
the gan'ison.
Leake and other

to
have supposed
travellers
Chigi'i
be the Cenchrete of Stephanus Byzantius.
The mountains round

reputation for robbers
have rather a bad
this place
and
it
was here that Captain
Sprattj R.N., wliile engaged with a brother officer
making the Hydrographical Sm^vey, was sm^prised

by three armed ruffians, fi'om whom, by great prein
sence of mind, however, he succeeded in escaping.
From Chigri we went
to Alexandiia Troas, passing
by a place called Lisgyar, where are hot springs.
Here are ruins of some baths
Roman period.
in the collection of
Mr.
masonry, and probably of the late
now
small bronze mouse,
Frank Calvert, was
of grouted
built
From the
foimd here.
nearness
of this spot to the Sminthiimi, the seat of the worship
of Apollo Sminthius, there can hardly be a doubt

that this
mouse was dedicated
on a coin of Alexandria Troas

a mouse in his hand.
the
is
to that deity,
This place
Admiralty chart, No. 1608,
but without a name.
saw a
marked on
is
"Hot
Springs,"
Pococke notices the
and says that the baths are
who
represented holding
spot,
Here he
sidphm'ic.
colossal draped female figm-e in white marble,
the head broken
off.^*
our arrival at Alexandria Troas, the weather

was so bad that we did not dismoimt, and could only
On
take a passing glance at the stately

I coidd hear of
The
principal
Roman
remains.
no inscriptions or sculpture here.
ruin
is
a large
arches, in a very noble style.
edifice
with
many
It is built of large
Chandler considers
blocks of isodomoiis masonry.

this a
131
THE LEVANT.
Gymnasium.
The marble has been carried away from this site

by travellers, or by peasants from the neighbouring
villages,
and notliing
masonry, the
is
left
but the solid
Eoman
Near
shell of the buildings.
we
it
saw a subterraneous vaulted passage, which, from

its
curved form, must have passed under the
seats of an amphitheatre.
Towards the sea the
shore
is
strewn with the ruins of houses for about
a mile.
We
passed northward through the ruins in the
direction of Gaikli
and on getting beyond the pre-
of the walls, came
cincts
upon many sarcophagi
which must have been placed on each side of the

ancient road.
On
our
way home from Alexandria
we
Troas,
halted at Kahfatli, near the Mendere.
Here has
been recently discovered a coarse tesselated pavement, with the usual

passed,
common
we found the Greek
As we
patterns.
villagers cutting
been so much
oilcloth.
spot the ground
is
up
had
For several acres round
this
strewn with fragments of marble
and of coarse Roman pottery.
ment
it
it
into squares to pave their church with, as if
East of the pave-
are traces of walls with foundations of grouted
rubble.
One of
these walls runs for a length of 60 paces,
with another at right angles to
it,
50
feet in length.
Three or four large squared blocks were lying on the

surface of the ground, near these walls.
the pavement
is
North of
a small mound, the top of which
K 2
132
forms a level area
running down
north side
its
is
a steep bank
Here fi-agments
to the plain below.
of black Hellenic pottery are found.
From Kalifatli we proceeded to the site of Ilium

Novum, where the remains visible above ground arc
very
led
trifling
me
though the
ground
irregidarities of the
to suppose that extensive ruins were hidden
under the
by Hahl
Thence we returned to Kenkoi
soil.
Eli,
where
some
I copied
inscriptions.
After our return to Renkoi, I visited a place
about half a mile to the N.N.E. of that

thought by Mr. Calvert to be the
Ophr)Tiium.
This
now
site,
site
village,
and
of the ancient
called
It
Ghelmez,
may be
described as a platform boimded by deep
ravines,
which surroimd
on the
east,
it
on the land
it
side,
except
where a narrow isthmus connects

with higher ground above. On the S.W. side
of the jjlatform, Mr. Calvert found a quantity of
pipes of thick red pottery in the steep

ravine.
down
They appear
to
as a watercourse.
bank of the
have been anciently
Upon
laid
the sm-face of the
platform are foundations of walls, pieces of marble,
Two
and fi'agments of pottery.
copper coins of
Neandria and one of Ilium have been found here.
To
the S.E. of this platform the ground on the
other side of the ravine rises in a series of terraces
Above these
partially covered with pine.

is
terraces
a sloping platform, on the surface of which are
many fragments
of Hellenic
pottery.
upper platform the foundation of a wall

traced 107 feet from
N.W.
a turn, and ruus 14G
to S.E.,
feet in
when
On this
may be
it
makes
an E.S.E. direction.
THE LEVANT.
IN
This
is biiilt
133
of a casing of travertine blocks,
filled
Here have been found, at different

periods, foiu'teen coins of Ophrynium, two of Sigeum,
three of Ilium Novum, and a fine silver coin of
in with rubble.
Megiste (Castel Rosso), a small island near Rhodes.
how
It is singular
rarity, could
from
its
on this
slojDe
which
of great
is
way to a spot so distant

of mintage.
The form of the ground
have
seems to
been much altered by
have fovmd
place
which
landslips,
this last coin,
occiu' fi'equently
On
deep ravines.
its
on the
sides of the
the shore below these platforms
are remains of an ancient mole.

It is evident that a
this
site
the
Greek
city
must have occupied
situation corresponds with that of
Ophrynium, as described by Strabo

of so large a
number of
platform renders this
all
and the finding
coins of this city on the
the
more probable.
Continiiing to explore the shoi'e southward from
Renkoi, I noticed at a fountain distant about
fifty
minutes fi'om that place fragments of red pottery
and building-stones.
The headland, which stands a little in advance of the

supposed site of the ancient Rhseteum, must have
served as an Hellenic burial-ground
ino-
the side of the
cliff
of the ground, a vein
for
on examin-
about 8 feet below the surface
may be
traced which contains
fragments of small vases, pieces of bone, and cinerary remains.
It appears that the
dead here were
interred in large jars of coarse red
On
the surface of the field above are
of pottery.
earthenware.
many
fi-agments
The ground swells out gradually
the middle of the
field
fi-om
towards the edge of the
134
cliff,
and
fi'om its
form suggests the probability
tliat
a tumulus, since levelled, once stood here.
At the
distance of an hour to
S.W. of Renkoi,
and within a few minutes' walk of the

an old
of
ruins
the
sea, are
Byzantine church, called Agios
The foundations of this church are 66 feet

length by 57 feet in breadth.
Among the ruins
Athanasi.
in
are fi'agments of columns
and
capitals of the
Roman
Coins of Sigeum have been found here.
period.
Near the confluence of the small

with the Mendere, at the distance of
the south of the Dardanelles,
is
river
hours to
five
chiflik,
Kemar
or farm, of
the Calverts, situated at the village of Atshik-koi.
Here are two ancient tumuh, marked in the Admiralty

During
chart as Herman Tepe and Khani Tepe.
our visit to Renkoi, Mr. Frank Calvert drove a galNotliing was
lery and shaft through Khani Tepe.
found in the interior except a layer of ashes near
the bottom, but the excavation was not carried low
enough
known
to obtain a conclusive result
for
it is
well
that the most important remains have been
found in Greek tumuli below their apparent
base.^
Between these two tumuli is a spot on the banks

of the river Kemar, which, on examination, proved
I was present at an
to be an Hellenic cemetery.
excavation made here by Mr. Calvert. The dead were
here buried in large crocks or jars of coarse red
These jars were called by the ancients
pottery.
pitlioi.
It
was
in
such a pithos, and not, as
is
vulgarly supposed, in a tub, that Diogenes dwelt.
Jars
similar in shape
and
scale are used
Greeks at the present day to hold water.
by the
They
are
135
TN THE LEVANT.
ground up to the mouth, at the door of

houses, and are called cnpas, -which seems to
sunk
in tlie
their
In
be a corruption of the Arabic houb, a vault.

oiu-
excavation, the pithoi were found only a few
inches below the sm'face, the plough having worked
down
They varied
nearly to their level.
in size,
the largest being about 4 feet 6 inches in height.
"We foimd them
lying on theu^
the
sides,
mouth
generally looking to the south-east.
The mouth of each pifhos was closed by a flat

Each contained one or more skeletons,
stone.
doubled up, and in several were painted vases. One
jar contained eight small vases
The
painted on some of the vases were in
figiu'es
red ground
black on a
ground
all
The
mixed with the bones.^'
others
seemed of a very
pitlioi
have been
leaden rivets, numbers of
Some
the bones.
on a black
red,
late period.
mended with
which were found among
anciently
of these were nearly a foot
long."''
Immediately below these jars we came to the

native rock
of the
field,
a proof that no earlier
interments had taken place in this cemetery."^
took advantage of a
little leisiu-e
at
Renkoi to
read the Ihad over again in the presence of the

great natiu'al features of the scene.
No
one
who
has not seen the magnificent outhne which bounds

the horizon of the plain of Troy can bring
his
mind the
the poet as
stirring
Homer meant
rather hearers.
We
it
at
aU
we
to
to affect his readers or
supply the scenery of the Iliad
fi'om our imagination, or, rather,

it
home
and marvellous narrative of
we do not supply
do not think of the Homeric landscape,
136
on
TRAVELS AND WSCOVErJES

the Homeric battle-scenes were relieved.
wliicli
The background
is
blank, like the plane svirface on
was relieved.
But to the
audience of Homer the names of the rivers and mounGreek
wliich a
tains in the
fi'ieze
poem
an actual landscape
recalled
and
through the ancient poets there
is a Greek landimphed
rather
than
described,
scape
of which the
all
untravelled scholar can form no conception.
we were
Wliile
at the Dardanelles, I observed
The agent of the

Calverts had lost 40,000 piasters by a robbery in
his house.
The robbery was traced home to the
people of this village, and after some days the priest
of the place declared in church that he had a charm
cimous
Greek manners.
trait of
which would
infallibly
charm
leg-bone of a wolf, which,
is
the
discover the
in milk with a ploughshare,
This
thief.
and then
if
boiled
has
bui^nt,
the extraordinary property of rendering the thief
lame
the
moment
the bone
one of the legs of the thief
The
priest
announced
is
is
put in the
this in the
morning, adding
that he would not bm-n the wolf's bone
next day.
That same
stolen property
rightftd
owner
fire,
forthwith paralyzed.
night the whole
till
the
of
the
was thrown into the garden of

in a bag,
and so the
its
thief did not
incur the punishment prepared for him.
I suspect
that behind this exhibition of priestcraft there
was
a more real and tangible threat on the part of the
Pasha of the Dardanelles, that he wovdd make the

village responsible for the
the priest,
now
as ever,
the Government.
amount
stolen
and so
was made the instrument of
IN
THE LEVANT.
IS'J
XII.
Ehodes, April
4,
1853.
Having been requested by Mr. Kerr, H.M.'s Consul at Eliodes, to act in his place
in
England,
I left
during
liis
absence
Blunt in charge of Mytilene, and
came here by the Austrian steamer a few days
ago.
On arriving, I found Mr. Kerr as eager to leave

Rhodes as I was to visit an island which promised
His
so rich a field of archfeological research.
impatience was
not
has
now
for twelve
long-
a furlough,
and
unnatural, for
vegetated at Cy|Drus and Rhodes

years without
his
ever
asking
for
mind, natm-ally an active one,
is
he
weary of the
petty intrigues and cabals which constitute the very
essence of Levantine society in small places, and
which a Consul can hardly keep clear of without

extreme discretion and forbearance.
After the
rough
life
we have been
leading at
Mytilene, I was not sorry to instal myself in a house

to which the residence of an English
imparted an
menage
air
family has
of comfort, such as our bachelor
at Mytilene never attained to.
being dependent on the tender mercies of
man
for daily food, I find
servants
Instead of
my
drago-
myself waited on by three
who have been taught to minister
to British
ways and wants under the carefiil training of Mrs.

Kerr, and one of whom actually speaks broken
English, and knows how to lay the cloth for dinner.
138
Judging from
first
impressions, I should imagine
Rhodes to be a much more agreeable residence for

an Enghshman than Mytilene'. Here there is a real
Frank quarter, where you hear as much French and
Italian spoken in the streets as Greek ; there is too
in the
manners of the people generally a tinge of
European
civilization
which
have seen nowhere
else in the Archipelago.
From the
circumstance that the trade of Rhodes
principally in the
is
hands of Frank merchants, and
that this beautiful island has always been a favourite

place of residence for French, Itahans, Maltese, and
other emigrants from Europe, Latin Christianity has
an ascendancy here wliich would not be allowed

islands like Mytilene,
as
much
in
where the Greeks discourage
as possible all foreign settlers, especially
Romish faith.
At this season Rhodes is arrayed in aU the freshThe sceneiy round the
ness of luxm-iant spring.
town has a peculiar beauty. The land is formed in
a succession of natural terraces down to the sea in
those of the
every view the palm-tree
is
seen against the horizon,
reminding the Enghshman in what latitude he
is,
which otherwise might be forgotten, from the extraordinary mildness of the temperatm-e.
In every
long and silent lanes,
stretching
direction I find
away
for miles thi'ough the suburbs
between high
garden- walls, from the top of which ivy and other
The
shrubs hang over in rich profusion.

scented with orange-flowers, the earth
with abundant crops.

squared stone, with
The houses
flat roofs.
are
Many
of
is
air
is
covered
all built
of
them have
THE
TN
139
LEV.\XT.
a strange tenantless aspect
for
Rhodes
a place
is
away with that atrophy

consuming the Ottoman empire. The town
whicli has been long wasting
which
is
far too large for its inhabitants,
is
away
into holes
Its ruins
up.
fell
Not
About a year ago an
down one
of the fine old towers.
one of the principal
in
are huddled
and corners.
earthquake threw
it
who
streets, blocking-
a stone has been touched by the Turks,
and the ruins may perhaps
lie
there
till
another
earthquake shakes them up again.

After having been jostled by the throng of mules
and market-people
of Mytilene,
for
streets
meet nothing but a stray donkey,
where no sound
heard but the echo of your own
is
pavement of pebbles, the most beau-
footsteps on a
yards and
miry
pleasant to walk in a place where
it is
miles you
tifidly clean
in the long, crooked,
that I ever trod on.
many
of the streets in the
AJl the court-
Frank quarter
are paved with roimd shingle-stones fi'om the beach,

in
many
places
we might
worked
in very neat patterns,
which
well imitate in England.
I delight in the distant views, which are on a
much grander
at
of
scale than those of Mytilene.
the map, you
Lycia and
will
Looking
see that the opposite shores
Caria are
much broken by bays
and headlands, which form a magnificent jagged

sky-line,
sweeping round in a kind of panorama
towards the south, where the vast forms of snow-
mountains
capped
perpetually
gales,
which
come
agitated,
and has not

it
into view.
sometimes by
that
look of
The
sea
is
tremendous
molten metal
has generally in the Archipelago.
The
140
only signs
here of
human
activity
are the
my
which revolve eternally before
mills,
They stand
row by the
in a long
wind-
windows.
sea-shore,
and
the effect of a sunset seen thi'ough their gaunt and

skeleton-like
arms
my
Ever since
is
most pictm-esque.
have been engaged in a
arrival I
variety of consular affairs, which, though often weari-
some
in detail, are not without interest, because the
minute study of such local matters gives an insight

into the state of society in this part of the Archi-
pelago.
The other day
I witnessed a singular scene, very
Corsican in character.
native of the island of
Cassos had been condemned to death for a murder
committed two years ago

took place here
there
in Alexandria.
was good reason
The
for believing
that the real murderer had been let off and the
one convicted
nople,
so the case
was reported
trial
wrong
to Constanti-
and there were hopes of a reprieve through
the intervention of Colonel Rose with the Porte.

Wliile the case
was
^ênding, the eldest son of the
Greek who had been assassinated, thirsting
for ven-
geance, went up to Constantinople and obtained a
ordering the immediate
firman
criminal.
presented
He
it
execution
of the
arrived with the fatal warrant and
to the
Caimakam, who
here as Governor in
tlie
is
now
acting
absence of the Pasha of
Rhodes.
The
gone
hopes
Yice-Consuls,
we
which
but in concert
I tried
into a few days'
had
^^^th
entertained
Caimakam
Now the Caimakam was
to persuade the
delay.
were
the Gi'eek and Russian
141
IN THE LEVANT.
a,
man
man,
stuffy little
fat
alder-
of Tui'kisli
a sort
very good-natm-ed, fussy, and nervous, very
much
anxious to oblige the English Consul, very

afraid of
responsibility
all
so he referred the matter
to the Mejlis or municipal council
I went.
As
have mentioned
and to the Mejlis
in a
former
letter,
Consul only goes to this council on great occasions.

In ordinary matters he sends his dragoman, for fear
that the Turks, by constantly holding intercourse
Avith
him, should discover that he
like themselves,
and so take
is
but a mere mortal

I found
to despising him.
there present the whole family of the murdered man.
This
is
the usual custom, according to Turldsh law.
Wlien the firman, or death-warrant, has arrived from

Constantinople, it is still invalid Avithout the solemn
assent of each
member
of the family of the murdered
man, declared before the Governor and Mejlis

even after
this, at
the place of execution,
members of the family

give their consent
are asked once
more
and any one of them can
don the condemned by dissenting from the

family
who appeared on
this
all
and
the
if
they
still
par-
rest.
The
occasion before the
court stood in a Hue at the end of the room, like
a row of masked and muffled figures on the ancient
Greek
stage.
They consisted of the
old
mother of
the murdered man, his widow, a daughter and son,
both grown up, and two younger children. They were

all in
deep mourning
the
women wore
l)lack veils
overshadoAving their foreheads, and looked like the
avenging furies Avho pursued Orestes.
Each was
asked in turn what their wish was, and each in

turn uttered the fatal word ouy.a., " blood." I never
142
shall forget the
savage expression with which this
declaration Avas made.
The widow stepped forward

court,
and
said, raising
into the middle of the
her fiendish ai^ms, " I wish to
A httle
blood from the executioner's knife."
lick his
me
with eyes
We
had enter-
boy, not fourteen years old, glared at
gleaming
like those of a tiger's cub.
some hopes that the old mother would have

members of
tained
relented; and a humane Tiu'k, one of the
the Mejlis, asked her whether she woidd not forgive,
hoped Grod would forgive her
as she
widow
but
it
was
all
carried a brace of
in vain.
It is said that the
pistols in
her bosom, and threatened to shoot any of
the family
who showed symptoms
was no more to be done,

makam, and said," If this man
there
I saw
of relenting.
so I turned to the Caiis
executed to-day, and
there afterwards comes a counter-order from Constantinople, I regard
you as responsible
consequences; on your head be

distinct idea
felt it
it."
for
aU the
had no very
what consequences there could be, but

life and death like this,
necessary, in a case of
to say something.
mysterious threat always teUs with the Tiu-ks
more than a definite one, and the Caimakam

trembled hke Fehx.
I got up and left the Mejhs,
and then arose an old grey-bearded Mussulman, the
Capouji Bashi of Ehodes, whose position
is,
to a
certain extent, independent of that of the Governor,
and
said,
matter
if
" Caimakam, I wash
you choose
my
hands of
this
to disobey the fh^man, take the
So the poor Caimakam,

finding himself deserted by the Mejlis, gave way,
consequences yourself"
143
THE LEVANT.
IN
and decided on risking nothing for tlie chance of

saving an innocent man.
The Mejlis broke up.
The family
of avengers stood
on the quay, the
usual place of execution at Rhodes, waiting im-
condemned man
patiently for the
Cavass Bashi, or chief of the
police,
The
to appear.
calmed their im-
patience by teUing them that an executioner could
The
not be found.
afi'aid
ftiU
fact
was that the Turks
Avere
There was a ship in the harbour
of a rescue.
of Cassiotes, coimtrymen of the condemned, and
the sympathies of the whole Greek population of
Rhodes were roused.

the friends
So the Turks, having quieted

of the condemned by saying that there
was a reprieve
for three days,
and ajjpeased the
family by the excuse of not being able to find an

executioner, proceeded to double the guards of the
konak, and to get the guns of a ship of war in the
harbour ready to
Then
at
fire
on the quay,
if
necessary.
locking the town gates a
sunset,
little
sooner than usual to prevent any great crowd, they

called in the family,
who rushed
to the place of exe-
cution Avith savage joy, shut out the sympathizing-
crowd, and finished what

act of the law
am
we
call in
England the
afraid that in
last
Turkey such
executions are sometimes but legalized mm-ders.

I
had been out walking
to enjoy the glorious
sunset, congratulating myself with the faint
hope
that our exei'tions had obtained a few days' reprieve,
when
met a great crowd coming fi'om the town.

In the centre was a woman with a flushed cheek and
fierce eye, beating her naked bosom with alternate
I
hand, and in regular time, the action reminding
me
144
at once of tlie planckis of the ancients.
It
was the
unhappy man who had just been exeeyes had no tears

she was thinking of
a futux'e vendetta, when her turn would come.
The next day the Glreek ships in the harbour
sister of the
Her
cuted.
lowered their colours half-mast high.

cession of
all
the funeral of the unhappy man,
was
long pro-
the principal Greeks in Rhodes attended
some
sacrificed to
who
I really believe
vile family feud
and
after
the funeral I had a visit from the chief mourner,
Mr. Leonidas Sakelarides.

obliges
in
me to give
which
The mention
name
of his
a sketch of a long previous history,
this execution is only
one
Some
act.
three
years ago, an Austrian vessel was wi-ecked off the

little
The
island of Cassos.
Cassiotes are enterpris-
ing mariners, Avho combine the professions of trader
and pirate
more
in a Avay
profitable to themselves
than pleasant to their neighboiu's.

the Austrian vessel went on shore,
that he
had entered
up the usual
The captain of
little knowing
into a den of thieves.
He drew
protest, or declaration of the shipwi'eck,
before the only local authority he could find in the

island, a
Greek council of primates.
The captain
unluckily
knew no Greek. The
secre-
tary of the Council being the only person in the place
who knew
Italian,
pretended to
take
captain's protest in Greek, writing
all
down
false declaration to the effect that all the cargo

lost
at
sea.
This
knowingly signed.
false
protest the
Then the
the
the time a
captain
was
un-
Cassiotes, thinldng
themselves secure, plundered the vessel and appropriated
all
the cargo.
But the
ship having been
insured
Malta, in
at
by the
discovered
145
THK LEVANT.
IX
due course
and
under-m-iters,
was
fraud
the
satisfaction
demanded from the Turkish Government. Mr. Leonidas, the chief mourner, is a young Cassiote wlio
was educated at Athens, where lie acquired notions
of a civilization unknown to his pirate countrymen.
He denounced the persons who had plimdered the
ship, and through his means the facts were proved
In revenge
against them.
and
own
young
his
life
Now
was
sister alive in
so that
afraid to
they burnt his
now he
house
and attempted
it,
at
lives
his
Rhodes, being-
go to Cassos.
fi'ay
in Alexandria, in
and
in
the
killed,
which one Greek
consequence of which another
was executed, arose out of the long-standing Cassiote

feud
denounced.
murderer executed.
man
he
had never been, the man
If this feud
would never have been

the
whom
between Leonidas and the pirates
killed,
nor his supposed
Leonidas, a near relation of
executed, tried to save his
life
by making
a sort of compromise with other accused parties in

Cassos.
Failing in this, he
exacting vengeance
execution,
he
now
and on the day
appeared
at
noimced the Avidow who had

thirstiness, as
his
Mejlis,
sIioaati
the
and
de-
such blood-
to
was always
enemy."
The answer which
sister.
this
very characteristic.
it
the
after
one of the persons who had bvu-nt
house and
widow gave
takes his turn in
the
charge in my presence Avas

" I thought," she said, "that
lawful
I foresee that Cassos
to
]:)urn
from
L
this
the house
of an
day forth
will lê
146
TltAVELS
AXD DISCOVBEIES
divided by a deadly feud, wliich mil last perhaps
even longer than the Turkish empire.

This
little
island
now
contains two parties, each
solemnly pledged to destroy each other's
the
property,
party of Leonidas,
life
and
who seems
to
have a courage worthy of Thermopylge, and the

party of the pirates,
him
who
are quite prepared to burn
alive.
XIII.
Ehodes,
When
landing at Rhodes,
A2iiil 28, 1853.
we behold
foi-
the first
time the fortress wliich so long formed the imjjregnable outwork of Latin Christianity in the East, and
which, though shattered by cannon and earthquakes,

stiU presents
us one of the noblest and most
to
instructive specimens of military architecture in the

fifteenth century
when walking
I'ound its walls,
we
the
names
and escutcheons of Grand Masters famous
in the
recognize on every bastion and tower,
annals of
its
two sieges
way through gateways,

and portculhs, we find
stiU
when, after winding om"

defended by drawbridge
ourselves in that long and
where the auherges of the Knights

stand side by side, still wearing on then- richlysculptm'ed fronts the proud insignia of the Order, the
heart would indeed be dead to human sympathies
lonely street,
which could remain unmoved

these tune-honoured
monuments
So absorbing indeed
is
the
in
the presence of
of Christian valom\
charm of
this first
147
IN THE LEVANT.
impression, so completely does
we
tions, that
it
our imagina-
fill
forget for awhile the interest which
belongs to Rhodes as the
of one of the great
site
maritime repubhcs of the ancient world, a city celebrated not less for the wisdom of
its institutions
than
for the beauty of its architectiu'e, the perfection of

its
ports and arsenals, and the strength of
its
de-
fences by sea and land.
Founded B.C. 408, and
great architect, Hippodamos,
by the same
out
laid
who
built the Pirgeus,
Rhodes was probably one of the earliest of the

Hellenic cities of which the plan was designed by
one master mind.
Hence that symmetry

city
in the
which the rhetorician
arrangement of the
Ai'istides,
second century A.D., describes
in
writing in the
well-known
Rhodes, he says, was built in the form of
passage.
an amphitheatre
the temples and public buildings
were groujjed together so as to form one composition,

of wliich the several parts balanced each other as in
the design of a sinsle
edifice.
The whole was encompassed by a

with
its
wall, which,
and battlements, he compares

The temples and other public buildings
stately towers
to a crown.
were adorned with celebrated works

sculpture
in painting
and
and, according to Pliny, the city con-
tained no less than 3,000 statues, of which 100 were

of colossal
size.^^
The maritime greatness

only to
its
of
geographical position, but also to the
convenience of
its
harbours and to the perfect equip-
ment of the dockyards and

(i.)
Rhodes was due not
L 2
arsenal, which,
from
*
148
Strabo's description, occupied a large space in relation to tlie rest of the city, and, like those of Carthage
and Halicarnassus, were probably screened from
Any
observation by high walls and roofs.
ciuuous
interloper found within these forbidden precincts at
Rhodes or
at Carthage
was hable
to the
punishment
of death.
describing the harbours, specially
Aristides, in
praises their convenience in reference to the prevail-
They
ing winds.
are so disposed, he says, as if for
the express purpose of

Caria, Cyi^rus,
recei'S'ing
and Egypt.
the ships of Ionia,
Towering above these
harbours stood the famous bronze Colossus, which,
from
was probably intended

So vast
to serve as a sea-mark and a lighthouse.
bright
sky
metal
reflecting
the
a surface of poUshed
of Rhodes, must have been -sasible from a great
distance at sea, and must have been to the Rhodian
its
position on the shore,
mariner an object
as
familiar
as
Athene Promachos was to those vho

Attic Sunium.
Such was the character of Rhodes
gathered
be
statue
of
sailed past the
as far as can
from the scanty notices in ancient
Vague and incomplete
authors.
the
are, they suggest to us
as
these notices
an idea of the ancient city
than can be obtained by a
far
more
definite
its
site,
of which the main features are so obUte-
visit to
rated that the few vestiges which remain can only
be detected after long study.

It
will
be convenient, before putting together
these scanty remains of ancient Rhodes, to give a

short description of the city built by the Knights,
PIalr.4
klJiii
149
IN THE LEVANT.
in the
as certain points
topography can then be
(See the Pkxn, Phxte
fixed for reference.
-i.)
The present harbonrs of Rhodes seem to have

been originally mere indentations in the line of the
improved by Hellenic
coast, subseqiiently
art.
The entrance to the principal harbour is flanked

on the west by the tall sqnare tower now called the
Arab tower, and on the east by a long mole running
nearly north, and terminating in the tower of St.
Angelo.
To
(Plate 5.)
the west
lies
a smaller harbour,
now
called
the Greeks Mandraki, or the sheep-fold, from
This
secm'ity.
tained
smaller
its
con-
and other ships
in antiquity the triremes
of war;
the larger harbovu- l)eing then, as now,
of Port
The eastern
merchant-ships.
the receptacle for

side
harbour
doulitless
by
Mandraki
is
formed by a massive
Hellenic mole running parallel to the eastern side
of the larger harbour, and defended at
by the tower of
as
St.
Nicholas, which
Its entrance is
a lighthouse.
its
extremity
now
serves
protected from
the north wind by a small rocky promontory, on
which the Lazaretto now stands.

the great harbour
is
To
the east of
a third natural indentation,
which does not appear
to have
been used as a
re-
gular port in antiquity, though on the ridge of the
rocks which bounds

mole.
it
are the remains of an Hellenic
This was probably intended to serve as a
breakwater in aid of the mole on the eastern side

of the harbour.
The town
harbour, following
it
occupies
its
is
built
round the great
curve, so that the area which
may he compared
to an irregular cres-
150
The fortifications witli wliicli it is encircled,

both by sea and land, extend from tbe round tower
cent.
on the eastern side of the entrance to the

harbour to the tower of
St. Nicholas, at the
gi'eat
mouth
of Port Mandraki.
On
the land side the town
defended by a
is
waU
of circumvallation, and a fosse cut out of the native

rock, which, being easily quarried, aflFords the
facilities for
making
fortifications
afterwards found at Malta.
The
which the Knights

fosse
is
GO feet deep, and in width fi'om 90 to 140

escarp and counterscarp are
of moderate
on the
The
stiU
spot.
size,
l)uilt
40
The
doubled.
is
Here
feet wide.
fine old brass
Knights, on which the flenr-de-Iis,
guns of the
the basilisk of
and other heraldic badges, may be recog-
The vents
nized.
feet.
of squared stones
In some places the fosse
terreplein of the walls is
I.,
from 40 to
which were probably quarried out
remain many of the
Francis
same
are protected from the weather
by old cuirasses taken out of the armoury of the

Knights. Everywhere the immense stone balls lie
about the ramparts.
Many
to repair the breaches in

bastions,
of these have been used
tlio walls.
In the towers,
and other works by which these
lines are
strengthened in various places, the mihtary engineer
may
trace the first
germs of that science of
fortifi-
cation which has been developed jmri passu with
the improvement in artiUeiy,

fifteenth century
in the
seems to have
and which
lêen
in
the
more advanced
Levant than in Europe.
All round the giêat liarbom* the
by a wall with square towers
to^^^^ is
defended
at intervals: this wall is
Plate 6.
tS
\,itîi.!ffû
it^K.(FÛ
/fittfti^
r'î?Cty
RHODES. D'AMBOISE
London. PaWislieA
bv Dav
& Son, LitH"--
GATE.
to ihc
Onec
151
IN THE LEVANT.
entered by the gate of St. Catherine,
An
Bazaar gate.
inner wall,
gate, rmis across the interior
and
to west,
after
called the
commencing fi'om this

of the town from east
throwing ont an angle to the
main
north, joins the
now
line of circnmvallation
about
halfway between the Amboise gate and the gate of

St.
The area on
George.
the north, enclosed be-
tween the inner wall and the outer
lines,
is
called
chronicles the upper town, or Castello,
in the old
and contained the palace of the Grand Master, the

auberges or lodges of the different
langncs of the
Order, and the churches of St. John the Baptist and

St.
In this upper town
Catherine.
or
Castello
dwelt the Grand Master and the Knights the lower

town was inhabited by a mixed population of Jews
and Greeks. In the north-west angle of the Castello
;
Grand IMaster, which, as it

occupies the highest ground within the fortress,
was naturally chosen by the Knights as their citadel.
The Castello is entered fi'om the west by a noble
is
the palace
gateway (Plate
D'Aubusson
by
of the
6),
its
frame
is
the
Grand Master
after a great earthquake,
his successor
takes
commenced by
D'Amboise, from
and finished
whom
this gate
Over the door within an ogee

of white marble, on which is sculp-
name.
a slab
tured in rehef an angel holding the escutcheon of
Amboise,
-with the inscription,
" AmboyseMDXII."
drawbridge connects this gateway with a stone
bridge which here spans the fosse with three arches.

(Plate 7.)
merly
It
was
fixed,
Over the Amboise gate a head was forwhich has been thus described to me.
flat at
the top, and pointed like the head of a
TKAYELS AND DISCOVEEIES
152
serpent,
and as large as the head of a lamb.
head was certainly on the gate as
This
late as the
1829, and seems to have been taken
year
down when
the
gate was repaired, some time previous to 1837.
This
is,
perhaps, the same head which Thevenot
saw, 1657, and which he thus describes

etait
beaucoup plus grosse
d'un cheval,
la
et plus large
gueule fendue jusqu'aux
" Elle
que
celle
oreilles,
de
grosses dents, les yeux gros, le trou des narines rond,

et la
peau tirant sur
le gris
blanc."
According to
the tradition in Thevenot's time, and which has been
preserved in Rhodes ever since, this was the head

of the great sei'pent slain by Dieudonne de Gozon in
the fourteenth century.^"
Passing through this gate, a vaulted passage leads
through the counterscarp over a second and third

fosse,
which defend the palace of the Grand Master

After crossing the third fosse, the
on the west.
road enters the Castello between the church of
St.
John and the palace of the Grand Master opposite to

This
the upper end of the street of the Knights.
which runs east and west, divides the Cas-
street,
tello into
At
its
two nearly equal
parts.
western extremity has been a beautiful
vaulted building, of which the single remaining arch

is
given in Plate
In
Rottier's time several
standing.
chm'ch of
been
8.
On
St.
of these arches were
the south of this building
John the
enlarged and
the
which
by successive Grand
Baptist,
altered
is
seems to have
Masters, and was probably founded by Foulques de

Villaret
on the
first
establishment of the Knights at
RHODl.S, ARCH
I..ind.ii
'ished
NEAR
by DayS:
CHURCH OF
.Son, J^tlf '^ to tlie
S'fJOHN
Qaeen
153
IN THE LEVANT.
Rhodes.
Tlie outside lias
no avchitectural feature.
Its plan is a rectangular basilica, containing a
and two
aisles,
with a clock-tower, the vipper part of
which was destroyed

mensions are 150
The columns
chiefly
nave
in the siege.
feet in
The
interior di-
length by 52 feet in breadth.
dividing the aisles fi'om the nave are
of granite,
and are probably taken
from
The
beams and ceiling blue, spangled with golden stars.
In the pavement .of the nave are the remains of the
tomb of the Grand Master Fabrizio del Carretto.
His effigy, which must have been sculptm-ed in low
roof
several ancient buildings.
relief
on a
slab,
flat
border of the slab
of wood, the
is
has been destroyed, but the
still
remains, with an inscription
at the foot, recording his
name,
titles,
and
services,
and with the date 1520. At the head of the slab was
Grand Master
Rhodes.
In the pavement the German
Ross saw a number of other sepulchral
Carretto was the last
his escutcheon.
bm'ied at
traveller
slabs with figm'es of knights in relief dressed in the
long robe of the Order, but too
He
identified.
containing a
also found here a
Greek inscription
of contributions to some public sub-
with escutcheons of the Knights, several of
which were copied by Rottier.

the
defoced to be
In the windows was formerly stained
scription.'^'^
glass,
list
much
choir
On
either side of
Ross remarked some carved woodwork
painted and
gilt,
with niches containing smaU images
of the Apostles.'^'
Opposite to the chvu'ch of St. John
is
the entrance
the palace of the Grand blaster through a

gateway flanked by two towers facing the south.
to
154
On entering under
this
gateway, "we come to an open
space covered with cisterns, in which the Turks keep
In
stores of grain.
fi-ont
a confused mass of
is
ruinous buildings, of which the plan can no longer
On
be made out.
the
left
are strong square towers
defending the citadel on the west.
with
many
small rooms.
On
In these the gan'ison pro-
the north the palace
and
a tower overlooking a broad
which
the right a
an open gallery communicating
staircase leads to
bably dwelt.
On
is
defended by
lofty platform,
by sohd masonry out of the depth of

was from the artillery planted on this
raised
is
the fosse.
It
platform that the Turks suffered so
much during
on Fort
St. Nicholas,
the
first
siege in their attack
from the church of
St.
Antonio,
(ante, p. 151),
street
which
is
to
we
a small mosque
Returning from the Grand
near the Lazaretto.

Master's palace
now
the
archway already noticed
down the long and narrow

known to travellers by the name
look
well
of Strada dei Cavaheri, or Street of the Knights.
In no Eui'opean
street so little
city,
perhaps, can be found a
changed since the
No Vandal hand
fifteenth century.
has disturbed the perfect repose
and keeping of the scene by demolition or rethe very pavement has a medifeval look, as
pairs
;
had known no thoroughfare since its broad

marbles were trodden by Christian warriors three
No sound of near or distant trafiic
centuries ago.
breaks in on the congenial stillness we might almost
suppose the houses to be without inhabitants, were
if it
it
not for the rude Turkish jalousies which project
on either
side, flinging
long slanting shadows across
155
IN THE LEVANT.
the riclily-sculptm-ed facades, and lending mystery

to a solitude only distiu'bed, wlien fi'om the
of
some deep archway a
veiled form glides
gloom
by with
averted face, scared at the unwelcome presence of

the Frank traveller.
About halfway down the street, on the left, as

you descend, is the miberge or lodge of the French
Jangve (Plate 9), the fagade of which
is
particularly
Over the door are the
rich in heraldic ornament.
arms of the Order, and those of Emeri d'Amboise,

mth the date 1492, and two other coats. In
the upper story, wathin a frame of Gothic leaves,
marble tablet.
D'Aubusson on a
Above the French coat are the words
Montjoie and
St.
are the arms of France and of
Denis
and the words Voluntas Dei

is
the
below,
Prior,
-n-ith
1495,
Near the doorway
est.
the escutcheon of VilHers de
Grand
date,
I'lsle
Adam,
as
the inscription " Pour Philerme,
1511."
In another place the same coat, with the

inscription " Pour la Maison, 1511," and a tablet
inscribed
"Pour
I'Oratoire, 1511."
Over a side-door
the arms of the Order, those of Emeri d'Amboise
and of Yilliers de
The
facade
turrets,
is
I'lsle
Adam, between
oriflammes.
crowned with battlements and small
below which two long fantastic dragons'
heads project as gurgoyles.
archway crosses the
street,
little
higher up an
above which
is
the
miberge of the Spanish langiie.
The arms of England ma}^ be seen on another

At the bottom of the street is a house with
the escutcheon of the Grand Master, Fabrizio del
Carretto, and the date 1519.
The style of archihouse.
156
tecture
tlirougliout
tliis
street
an
is
interesting
The
modification of the later Gotliic.
escutclieons
are generally set in a richly-sculptured ogee arch.
Most
of the Avindows are square-headed, Avith labels
and upright muUions,
while the pointed
constantly employed in the doorways.
and
fantastic
arch
is
In the rich
ornaments we recognize the Flamboy-
ant style so generally prevalent in Europe in the
century;
fifteenth
but these ornaments are but
sparingly introduced, so as not to disturb the noble

simplicity of the general design.
In
all
the edifices
by the Knights at Rhodes we see the same tendency to temper the stern and naked ruggedness of
mihtary masonry as far as possil^le with rich ornabuilt
such as
ments,
we
generally find associated with
ecclesiastical architecture.
No
have been adopted than
mixed
the
character of an
this
symbol coidd
fitter
style, to
order at once
express
and
military
religious.
At
the lower end of the Street of the Knights
the old church of St. Catherine,
now
a mosque
the windows a few coats of arms are
The
last building
still
painted.
street is
The
This
is
a large square
The
under a kind of vestibule facing the
original doors,
richly carved,
were given to the Prince de Joinville
On
either
as warehouses.
The
his visit to
side are large vaults
now used
is
east.
which were of cypress-wood
on the occasion of
inside
is
with a very simple external facade.
entrance
in
on the south side of the
the Hospital of the Knights.

edifice,
is
Rhodes.
a quadrangle, supported on vaults, above
which are open arcades formed of round arches
resting on pillars.
157
THE LEVANT.
IN
Adjoining the arcades are four
long rooms, corresponding with the four sides of the
These saloons and the open
quadi-angle.
galleries
are covered with a roof of cypress-wood in very
The
fine condition.
rooms were evidently
four
for
the sick, the open galleries for the convalescent to
walk
In one of the vaulted magazines in the
in.
basement, the
chain
which
served to
close
the
entrance to the hai'bom' was formerly kept, and was

seen by Ross in his
750
as
lono;,
feet
Since his
%-isit it
visit in
He
1843.
describes
1^ foot
each link beinof
it
lonof.
has been removed to Constantinople.
was commenced by Villeneuve, and

completed by the Grand Master Fluvian, and seems
The
hospital
to have been well planned for its pm'pose.
It
now
forms an excellent barrack.

In front of
its
eastern fagade
is
an open space
This gate
leading to the gate of St. Catherine.
is
defended by two massive round towers, with deep

projecting machicoulis.
Over the gate
is
a relief in
marble, representing St. Catherine, St. Peter, and

St.
Paid
below, the
and
D'Aubusson,
the
arms of the Order and of

inscription
D. F. Petrus d'Aubussonius Rhodi
banc turrem
et portas erexit."
" Reverendus
mamus
ma2:ister
""
The inner wall, running from this gate across the

town to a point south of the Amboise gate, and
separating
ofi"
the CasteUo fi'om the lower town, has
been already noticed.
South of
this line are the
bazaar and Jews' quarter, and on the west a number

of small tortuous streets inhabited by Turks.
part of the
(I.)
town
in the fifteenth century
This
was occu-
158
pied by the Greeks and Jews, wlio traded under the
Throughout both the
protection of the Knights.

Castello
and lower town, the
general character
streets
the houses have
are built of stone throughout.
At
have the same

flat roofs,
frequent intervals
broad arches cross the streets overhead.
mode
and
(See Plate
was probably adopted

to facihtate communication from point to point, and
afi"ord additional shelter from the fire of the enemy
during a siege. The majority of these houses are
cubical in form, and built in the simplest manner,
without any architectural feature. Here and there
bits of richly-sculptured facades may be met with.
On the left of the bazaar is a building which bears
10.)
This
the traditional
On
Justice.
of building
name
of Castellania, or Palace of
the fagade are the arms of the Grand
Master D'Amboise, in a rich Gothic frame. The

windows have lihes sculptured on their mullions and
transoms.
This building abuts on the wall which
Near it is
another, to which tradition gives the name " AdmiThe entrance-door is under a pointed arch.
ralty."
runs round the shore of the harbour.
This building
is
less
ornamented than the
richly
Nothing certain
Castellania.
is
known
as to the
original purpose of these two edifices.
In
the
Jews'
quarter
is
a house
which was
probably the residence of some wealthy merchant,

as
it
stUl contains a large
ceiling.
The
richly-carved
Marc are
a number of
remains of the chiu-ch of St.
near the Admiralty.

coats of
room with a
arms copied
The mosque
of
Kottier gives
in this church.
Suhman,
situated a httle to the
Plat =10
RHODES STREET OF KNIGHTS
I.onaon PatUlI^cI
TJirS: EOT..IitH?to
(LlMiTeo)
l>.e
Qanm.
169
IN THE LEVANT.
east of the gate of St. George,
on each
side of the
door
on which are richly sculptured
pilaster,
helmets,
and angels'
battle-axes,
The design
festoons.
tlic
It has a jjortico of white
of the Apostles.
cliurcli
marble columns
was probably
is
is
in relief
heads between
a beautiful
specimen
of
Renaissance ornament, and must have lêen executed

of the fifteenth centmy.
at the close
dictine
and Augustine convents
The Bene-
have also been
converted into mosques.
Two
gates originally led into the lowei' town from
the land side,
the
gate of St. George, which was
afterwards walled up by the Knights, and the gate

of St.
gate,
John
tlie
now known
Baptist,
as the
Koskino
Between these two gates arc
on the south.
the Spanish tower and the tower of St. Mary, which
defends the soifth- eastern angle
Over the gate of
St.
sculptured in freestone
John
;
of the
fortress.
a relief of the saint
is
below, on a tablet of blue
marble, the arms of the Order and of D'Aubusson,
which seem of a
From
later insertion.
this gate the fortifications
bend round
north-east, between the Jews' quarter
cemetery,
till
to the
and Jewish
they reach the rocky shore, wliei'c they
turn nearly due north, running to the commence-
ment of the eastern mole of the harbour, which is

prolonged in the same direction. Here the fortifications meet the sea-wall of the harbour nearly at a
right angle.
The part
of the fortifications between this angle
and the gate of
Turks with
their
St.
John was twice
whole
force,
assailed
by the
dm'iag the siege.
On
160
the second assault they succeeded after a tremen-
dous bombardment in mounting the breach, and
were only driven back when D'Aubusson himself at

the head of a chosen band of Knights regained possession of the ramparts
back into the
and hurled the
To commemorate
fosse.
assailants
this repulse
the brave Grand Master built the chapel of Notre
Dame
de Victoire A^^thin the angle of the
commencement
tions at the
which has been already
On
which
this
is
mole
fortifica-
of the eastern mole,
noticed.'^
stand
three
^vindmills,
a battery armed on both sides
beyond
and on the
point of the mole a circular tower, called in later

chronicles the Castle of St.
John.''^'
On
on Hellenic foundations.
the harbour
is
This mole rests
the opposite side of
the stately tower built by the Grand
Master De Naillac, at the
extremity of a mole
running out to the east from the north-eastern angle

of the fortress.
The date
1 iOO.
(Plate 11.)
of this tower
It is
is
probably about A.D.
sometimes called by Bosio the tower
of St. Angelo, and by later wiîters the tower of

St. Michael, a
name
no authority.
It consists of three square stories,
for
which there seems to be
crowned by a machicolated parapet with overhanging

turrets at the four angles,
octagonal lantern.
Round
above which
rises
an
the outside of this lantern
a winding staircase leads to the summit, which com-
mands a most interesting bird's-eye Aaew of the

town and environs of Rhodes. This tower is 150
Under the parapet is the escutcheon of
feet high.
De
Naillac with that of the Order.
In the basement
161
IN THE LEVANT.
story Ross saw, in 1843, the macliiiie by wliicli in
the time of the Knights the great chain was stretched

across the harbour.
The tower
is
united with the rest of the fortifica-
by a stone bridge leading to a platform built

on the mole, and armed with gmis on either side, so
tions
as to
command
a view of both harbom-s.
This platform, which

high,
joins
is
21 feet broad and 86 feet
the main wall
north-eastern angle.
At
of the
fortress
this point a
at
its
small door
main harbour into a

battery which commands the mole of St. Nicholas,
and thence through another door over a drawbridge,
which leads out of the fortress to the Mandraki
leads from the shore of the
harbom*.
Inside the battery
main
now
wall,
del Castello
built up,
mentioned
a small gate in the
is
which seems to be the Porta
Here
in the old chronicles.
four lines of fortifications intersect, running nearly
according to the cardinal points of the compass.
These
are,
to the south
the wall
defending the
shore of the great harbour ; to the east the platform

leading to the Naillac tower
to the north the mole
of St. Nicholas, and to the west the northern wall

of the fortress.
The mole of
ern
side of
St. Nicholas,
which forms the
east-
Port Mandraki, extends about 1,000
feet into the sea.
It is in great
measure the original
Greek mole, the lower courses

squared blocks regulai'ly
enormous
built of
fitted together.
At the
extremity stands the castle of St. Nicholas, built by

the Grand Master
Raimond Zacosta.
Good, Duke of Burgundy,
Philip the
contributed largely to
162
TRAVELS AND DISCO\'EEIES
the expense of
its
erection
his arms, with those of
Zacosta, and of the Order, are

outer
-wall
next the
made
the Turks
bombarding-
it
still
In the
sea.
first siege
several furious assaults
church of
fi'om the
attempting to storm
it
of Rhodes
on
this fort,
St. Antonio,
and
by thromng a bridge of boats
They were
across the harbour of Mandraki.
pulsed with great slaughter by D'Aubusson.

this fort are casemates, magazines,
of a chapel; above these
many
on the
to be seen
is
re-
Within
and the remains
a platform, on which are
brass gims of the time of the Knights, some
of Avhich bear the date 1482, others 1507, with the
arms of France and England. This part of the fort

seems much in the state in which the Knights left it.
From the time of the Grand Master Zacosta the
defence of the fortifications was so arranged
each langue had
its
appomted
post.
that
The distribuThe German
tion of these posts
was
knights defended
the part between the west side
all
as follows
of the Grand Master's palace and the gate of St.
George.
The langue d'Auvergne was posted from
the gate of St. George to the Spanish tower
English from
St.
the
the Spanish tower to the tower of
Mary, of which they defended the lower
story.
In the upper story of this tower, and thence as far
was the post of Arragon.

This gate, with the outwork in front of it, and the
waU as far as the Italian tower, were defended by
as the gate of St. John,
the Provencal knights

St. Cathai'ine,
thence, as far as the gate of
were posted the
The sea-waU
the
Porta del
Italians.
fi-om the gate
Castello
of St. Catharine to
was defended by
Castile
IN
and Portugal
163
THE LEVANT.
and thence
to the pahace
of the
Grand Masters was the post of the French.

The palace itself, as far as the post of the Germans,
Avas
guarded by a special body of knights under the
command
of the Grand Master himself.
It is cm'ious that in the
tower of
St.
Mary,
as-
signed in both sieges to the Enghsh, the marble tombstone of an
Enghsh knight may yet be seen
into the walls.
HIC
N
It bears the following inscription

J
AC ET.
R.TH O M AS
EWPORT. PODATUS.
lE.M LES.QI.OBI IT
502, XXII. D E. M ESIS
AG
1
built
SEPTEMBRIS.CViVS.ANIMA
REQVIESCAT.IN.PACE
AMEN
1502.^3
The numerous bronze gims which

the batteries have
still
remain in
abeady noticed.
been
range is said to be about 2,000 yards.

all
honeycombed,
and
therefore
imsafe.
Then-
They are
Much
powder from the time of the Knights still remains,

stowed away in vast magazines, connected with each
other and with the ramparts by subterraneous galleries.
In the upper to^vu
is
a small armoury, in
which are preserved helmets, cuirasses, battle-axes,

bronze mortars, hand grenades made of a kind
of opaque glass, and various other interesting relics
of the Knights.
The western and southern sides of the fortifications

are surrounded by two cemeteries that of the Turks
;
extending from the Amboise gate to beyond the gate
164
of St. Joliu
wlience to the shore
is
the burial-place
of the Jews, lying immediately outside their quarter.
Large Turkish gardens border
these
cemeteries,
beyond -which on the south are the suburbs Bpano
Maras and Kato Maras (the upper and lower Maras),

both inhabited by Greeks. To the north-west of the
town is the suburb Neo Chorio, or Neo Maras, the
Frank quarter of Rhodes. Here are the residences
of the
consuls
and the Roman Catholic chm'ch
and a large proportion of the population of

suburb profess the Latin
faith.
These suburbs extend to the foot of
which
hill,
lies
the town.
this
Stephen's
St.
along the northern shore overlooking
This
fortifications of
completely
hill
commands
the
Rhodes, and, had the Tm'ks pos-
sessed in the 15th century artillery of sufficient range
town from such a distance, they would

of course have made this ground the centre of their
to reach the
operations during the siege.
Wlien the British

Sir Sidney
this hiU,
Smith
fleet Avas at
Marmarice
lived in a house
on the summit of
which has since been known
travellers as Sir Sidney Smith's hiU.
the ancient city had
This
hill
is
its
in 1802,
to
It is
English
here that
Acropolis.
an irregular plateau, lying nearly
parallel with the seashore, in a direction
from N.E.
to S.W., and descending on the S.B. and N.B. sides

in a series of terraces to lower ground.
part of the hiU

the
N.W.
fine of
part
clifi"
beloAV
On
is
where
this
it
The highest
overlooks the sea facing
side it terminates in a
broken
very steep and inaccessible for the most
which the road to Trianta, resting on a
165
IN THE LEVANT.
rocky base, winds along the
If
sliore.
the N.E. face of St. Stephen's
hill
we ascend
from the Neo
Maras and follow the edge of the cliff to the S.W.,

there will be seen at inteiwals a bed cut in the rock
on which doubtless stood the outer wall of the
The
Acropolis.
continuity of this line of cutting
is
constantly interrupted by breaks in the edge of the

cliff,
by
large portions of which have been detached
earthquakes at different times, and
may be seen lying-
above and below the road to Trianta.

these fallen masses are
hewn
Several of
as if they
had formed
portions of tombs or of the bed of the wall above.
The
line of the rock,
after continuing for
some
distance to the S.W., terminates iu broken ground

just before the curve of the bay
commences
at this
point the bed of the foundations cut in the rock
makes an
new
angle, turning to the east.
line across several fields, I
came
Pursuing
this
to polygonal
modern wall of a field, after which

was marked by a vertical cutting in the
blocks set in the

the
line
rock
still
pointing east.
tical cutting
On
a portion of this ver-
a course of oblong blocks
still
remained,
the largest of which measured 10 feet 3 inches by

3 feet 4 inches.
From
the size of these blocks and
fi-om the fact that the angle
commences
is
from which
this
the point where the ascent to the
line
hill
from the sea becomes more accessible on account of

the termination of the
cliff
here, I infer that the
courses of masonry are the foundations of a
wall
defending the Acropolis on this side.
The base
of the vertical cutting contains sepul-
chral chambers cut in the rock.

(I.)
From
this cutting
TEAVELS AND DISCO VEEIES
166
down
the ground slopes

wliicli
may
to tlie S.E. into a liollow,
have been a ravine.
Proceeding eastward from this point, I came to a
and ravines so intersected by the
series of terraces
and gardens that
walls of fields
exceedingly
it is
cult to discern the vestiges of the ancient city
more
so to indicate their position in such a
as to enable subsequent
travellers
Everywhere I met with inscribed

statues,
to
altars
them.
and bases of
especially
which
in the courtyards of the ruined Turkish houses,

site.
Many
tombs cut
large
still
manner
find
and fragments of architecture, and
abound on the
difii-
in the
rock occur at intervals, and the beds to receive the

foundations of temples were
several places.
It
still
to be traced in
would be impossible to indicate
with accm-acy the position of these remains unless

a plan were
made
of the whole site on a large scale.
In the absence of such a plan I noted down

servations as
much
several roads by
may be
this
Biliotti,
local
ob-
as possible in connection with
which the hill is traversed and which
considered as fixed points.
ground,
my
In exploring
was accompanied by Mr. Alfred
the cancelliere of the Consulate, whose great
knowledge enabled me to see much which
should otherwise have missed.
Turkish
cemetery
about
On
half-way
crossing the
between
the
Amboise gate and the bastion of St. George, we come

to the commencement of a road which points to the
N.W., leading to the summit of St. Stephen's hill.
For some yards from its commencement the rock is
hewn on each side, showing the Une of an ancient
way.
167
IN THE LEVANT.
Following ttis line to a place wHere a piece of

Hellenic wall occui's on the
turned
off
rection,
of the road,
left side
on a cross-road running
and having on the right a
we
in a S.S.E. di-
vertical cutting.
Proceeding along this road we passed on the
left
an old chapel of the Knights, at wliich point the road
tiu-ns to the S.B.
little
further on
is
a chapel
dedicated by the Grand Master Dieudonne de Gozo.

I
was told that an
inscription in large characters
had been recently found here, which had been concealed by the Turk to whom the field belongs.
A little
to the
right
fm-ther on
N.W.
we came
to a cross-road pointing
In the wall bounding this road bn the
was part of a shaft of variegated marble, and
the same wall about three yards further on, the
ment of an
inscription in bhxe marble,
to have been
fiâg-
which appears
a dedication to Helios, or the Sun-
god, by certain Khodians.
The
last
words of
fragment appear to refer to an earthquake.

inscription is in large letters of the
At
in
this point
we turned out
Roman
this
The
period.
of the road into
some
Here were foundations of a Byzantine building, and a little further on two inscriptions
near a ruined house and a palm-tree. One of these
was on a block of blue marble 3 feet by 2 feet
by 2 feet, and recorded the conferring of a crown of
fields
on the
left.
gold on Anaxibios, son of Pheidianax, by the people
The
of Rhodes.
letters
were of a good period.
The
block seems to have formed part of a large pedestal.
The other
was a dedication in honom' of

fine letters on a square base of
inscription
one Timokrates, in
blue marble.
On this
spot are also two drums of tra-
TRAVELS AXD PISCO^TEIES
168
vertiue columns.
few yards further to the S.W.
drums of Doric columns 2 feet 9 inches in

diameter, and apparently in their original position.
They are of travertine which has been covered with
The intercolumniation is 6 feet 3 inches.
stucco.
There are several more of these lying in the same
are two
hue along a ridge which continues for 31 yards

from N. to S. and marks the line of these columns.
To the W.N.W.
of these remains
an
is
artificial
hollow with a terrace running round, which appears

to be a stadium.
The
direction of this stadium
is
N.N.B. by E. to S.S.W. by W. At the southern

end it is curved, the other end being open.
fi-om
of the stadium
Immediately to the north
is
ruined house with a well, at the side of which
is
block of blue marble, 1 foot 7 inches wide by 1 foot
10 inches by 1
foot,
on which
is
an inscription
re-
cording that the demos of the Lindopolitje and the

2)hratria (Trarpa) of tlie Druitte
had rewarded with
golden crown Eualkidas, son of Antilochos, in the

piiesthood of Antilochos."*
This
l)lock
had been converted into a drinking-
trough.
To
the
levelled
N.N.W.
of the
and cut into
wall of a vineyard
steps,
is
stadium
a platform
is
and in the boundary-
the di'um
of a travertine
column, about 5 feet 10 inches in diameter.

Biliotti thinks that this is in position,
bers large Hellenic Ijlocks on which
which are now covered with earth.

fi'om the
form of the ground
It
and rememit
rests,
and
would seem
that the
vineyard
occupies the site of a temple about 59 paces long by
169
IN THE LEVANT.
45 broad.
Its greatest length lies parallel with the
Near
stadium.
vineyard
this
the door of which
a square
is
a Turkish house, at
is
of blue marble
liase
inscribed with a dedication to Apollo Pythios by
who
Glykon, an Athenian,
held the
of pro-
office
xenos or consul at Rhodes.
To the
N.jST.W. of the dadiwtu. a road cut through
the rock leads to a higher platform, where
drum
of calcareous stone 4
of a column
is
the
feet in
diameter.
Near
this cutting are
A little
some
steps, also
to the east of the dad'nmi
is
rough hewn.
a great plat-
form, where, perhaps, stood a temple of the Sun, as

several mscriptions mentioning priests of this deity
have been found near

It will be
this spot.
seen by the plan, that another road
leads from the Turkish cemetery to the Acropolis,
commencing a
gate.
to the north
little
which are three windmills.

that the cannon of
Mahomet
Amboise
It
was from
II.
this point
did great
damage
Nearly parallel with this road
during the siege.
may be
of the
This road passes over a Uttle eminence, on
traced very distinctly from the commence-
ment of the
slope to the windmills the line of an
ancient way, indicated sometimes by the bed cut in
the rock, and in one place

stones on one side.
1)y
This road
Admiralty chart as a
Avail.
On
the massive
is
marked
kerbin the
the south side of
it
rectangular foundations cut in the rock indicate the

position of tombs.
The windmills stand on masses
of rock, the base of which has been cut into sepulchral chambers.
On
the north side of the Avindmills
TEATELS AND DISCOVEEIES
170
are two circular shafts, wiiicli probably lead to sub-
terraneous tombs.
After passing the windmills, the traces of the
ancient road become less distinct
till
they are lost on
descending a slope crossed by a modern aqueduct.

Its direction is
N.W.
to S.E.
After following out this road,
we examined some
tombs on the S.E. side of the Acropohs.

Here are some larsfe subterranean chambers
with stucco, and entered by a vertical
From an examination
shaft.
of this side of the Acropohs,
1 should infer that the strata of rock of wliich
composed were
lined
originally scarped to a
much
it is
greater
depth than at present appears, the scarp having

been filled up by the deposit of soil from above. In
these scarps have been cut the entrances to tombs.
In one place south of the stadium

monolithic tomb, on the face of which
cut in
is
part of a
is
a buckler
relief.
Crossing the Turkish cemetery in a direction south

of the tower of St.
where are
Mary
came to a Turkish garden,
six blocks of bhie marble,all of whichappear
to be pedestals of statues.
One
of them
was inscribed
with a dedication by the people of Rhodes to Lucius

In a courtyard
Decrius and his wife Agrippina.
a httle to the
marble,
now
W.
of these marbles
is
a block of blue
a water-trough, measuring 4 feet by
2 feet 9 inches by 2 feet 4 inches, on which are the
remains of a dedication in
names of
victors
in the
Nemean games, and
fine letters,
Pythian,
Isthmian, and
games called Halieia,

honour of the Sim-god.
in the
celebrated at Rhodes in
recording the
171
IN THE LEVANT.
Below, in smaller characters,
is
the
name
of the
Theon of Antioch, by whom the object

The mention of Antioch
dedicated was made.
sculptor,
proves that this inscription
of a date subsequent
is
to Alexander the Great.
In the same coixrtyard
by 2
ble, 3 feet 9 inches
is
feet
a pedestal of blue mar-
by 2
feet 6 inches,
This
holes at the top for the feet of a statue.
name
Sun
inscribed with the
timos, priest of the
with
is
Antisthenes, son of Archi-
below
is
name
the
of the
sculptor, Onasiphron, son of Kleonaios, of Salamis.''^
In this
field is
a raised platform, about 63 paces long
by 21 wide, on which a temple may have
stood.
many squared
In an adjacent vineyard are
blocks
built into the walls.
To
the S.W. of St. Stephen's
hill
a platform ex-
tends along the shore, from the point where I noticed

the angle
cliff.
made by
the wall along the edge of the
This platform
Stephen's hiU.
rather higher
is
On its W. and
the surface of which
blocks of no gTcat
the ovitline of the
lie
size.
hill,
S.
it
From
marks the
may
the
St.
a ridge,
on
square
This ridge, which follows
line of
waU
but from the small
be infen'ed that this wall
was not part of the main

Acropolis.
than
at intervals loose
for the defence of the platform

size of the blocks
edge
is
fortifications
evidence
of an
of
the
inscription
relating to Zeus Atabyrios found here, Ross and
M. Gueriu
identify this platform as the hill
Arrian (Mithradat.
c.
which
2G) describes as easily scaled,
and as lia\dng on the summit a temple of that Deity

surrounded by a low wall. It was this hill that
172
by a
Mitliradates sought to surprise
during
The
siege of Eliodes.
liis
corresponds suflBciently witli the
site
It is probable that
in Arrian.
beloTv, at
attack
niglit
cliaracter of the
description
Mithradates landed
about the same place as the Turks did in
their expedition
under Mahomet the SecondJ^
This platform overlooks a pleasant valley called
Sandruh, where
an abundant
is
soui'ce
of water,
overshadowed by planes, orange-trees, stone pines,
and other
It
trees.
was probably a
favourite place
of resort for the ancient Ehodians.

It is
hkely that tombs would be found on this
platform, for on
S.E. side
its
inscribed with the
name
is
a small marble
Bularchos, and another bearing the

goras, son of Damaratos.
foUow the
line of
cist,
of Timasikrates, the son of
name
of Bua-
road which seems to
an ancient road leads from San-
druli to the south of St.
Stephen's Mount.
On
the right-hand side of this road, at the distance of

five
minutes' walk from Sandruli,
side of which
is
is
hill,
on the
a block of white marble, 3 feet 6 inches
long by 2 feet by
1 foot 7 inches,
on two opposite faces
of which are sculptured three bulls' heads.

centre head hangs an ivy wreath
From
the
the other heads
are crowned with myi'tle.
On
in
one face under the
bulls'
heads
is
a dedication
honour of Aristobulos of Termessos, and
Isigone of Ephesos.
and
his wife
Both are styled on the marble
benefactors
fi'ayed the
expense of the choregia on bringing out
it
is
stated that Aristobulos de-
some dramatic entertainment three

block was another, similar
to this
times.
in
Close
form and
173
IN THE LEVANT.
dimensions, on which
it
These marbles seem
to
little
had probably been placed.
higher up on the same
with
inscribed
name
the
be part of a pedestal.
a square altar
hill is
of
Xenobulos,
son of
ApoUodotos.
At
is
the foot of St. Stephen's
may be
a tannery, where
tain,
and the
is
a natural foun-
not an unlikely one for a temple.
site is
passing
road
seen several large blocks
Here
and drums of blue marble.
on the north,
hill,
this
runs
tannery
shore, crossing a bridge
on
to
and then turning
to
the
the
W.
At the angle may be seen under the soil of the

modern road courses of ancient squared blocks.
This road leads to the village of Trianta.
It is probable that it follows the line of the ancient
road but on a higher
from the
hei"e
cliff
the
one place
much rock has
fallen
All along the side of the road
above.
soil is full
is
level, as
of fragments of pottery,
and
in
the entrance to a gallery cut in the
rock, which points to the south,
and may have been
an aqueduct.
Between
inscriptions
may
be
Stephen's
hill
and the harbours,
and other remains of the ancient
seen
various
in
throw
little
the ancient
city,
vestiges
of
St.
or
places
no
and do
city
but such stray
light
not
on
the plan
enable
i:s
to
any one of its buildings. It is evident that,

Rhodes was strongly fortified, the Acropolis must
have been connected with the harbours by walls
identify
as
enclosing a large area.

walls was, cannot
evidence than
we
Wliat the
dii-ection of these
be determined without further
at present possess.
It is probable
174
TKAVELS
DISOOVBEIES
iVNV)
that they inchided the quarter called
Neo
Mai'as,
north of the present town, and the greater part of

the sandy spit beyond, for the following reasons.
On
this
chart,
by the Admiralty
shore, as will be seen
No. 1637, are two rows of windmills, which
converge towards the point of the

nearly parallel with
on the western shore, that
last windmills
and run
Between the two
shores.
its
spit,
is
to say
those most distant from the point of the sandy

is
spit,
a foundation cropjiing up through the sand on the
edge of the
On
sea.
excavating here, I traced three lines of massive
foundations, apparently the base of an oblong tower.
The wall nearest the sea measured 26 yards, running

N.N.E. by N. Another ran at right angles to it for
29^ yards, when it made a i-eturn. The opposite
wall
could only be traced for
15 yards.
This
composed of large blocks of conglomerate, 8 feet 6 inches wide.

The length of the
foundation
is
longest was 15 feet 10 inches.
blocks was
facing the sea
6 inches wide.
foot
had on
its
outer face a step 1 foot
The two foundations running
were entirely concealed beneath sand
and shmgle, under which, as

the windmills, I found ancient
of pottery.
dations
is
The depth of these

The foundation
This face has been worn smooth by
the action of the sea.

at right angles,
inches.
7-|
little
to
the
advanced towards
soil,
with fragments
S.W. of these foun-
a rocky ridge running out iuto the sea,
Between the
a swampy hoUow,
and forming a natural breakwater.

windmills and the French church
is
which durmg most part of the year
is
covered with
IN
Looking at the position of this lake
water.
to the foundations on the shore, I
think that
it
must
Indeed, I
Russian
vice-consul
heard
am
in ancient times
harbour.
have
175
THE LEVANT.
fiôm
am
I'elatively
inclined to
have been a
assured by M. Ducci, the
remembers to
old inhabitants of Rhodes a
here, that he
tradition that a canal formerly connected this lake
with the
If
sea.
we suppose
that another
canal
anciently communicated between this lake and Port
Mandraki, ships would have been able to pass in
and out without having to weather the sandy point.

Such an hypothesis woidd give a more definite
meaning to the
rhetorical statement of Aristides
were arranged as
receiving the
that
if
for the
the
row
of
express piurpose of
of Ionia, as well as those of
ships
Cyprus, and Egypt.
Caria,
Rhodes
that the harbom-s of
ante, p. 148),
(see
may be observed
on the N.W. shore
It
windmills
stands on a ridge running parallel with the edge

of the
sea.
It is
not improbable that this ridge
marks the line of the wall of the ancient city, in

which case the foundations uncovered by me may
be those of a square tower. The margin of shore
at the foot of this ridge has probably been thrown
and the sandy
up,
spit
prolonged by deposit from
the sea since the time of the ancients.

It will
be seen by comparing the plan of Rhodes,
Plate 4, with the view, Plate 5, that Port Mandraki

is
separated from the great harbom' by a narrow
isthmus at the
Within
rich
JST.E.
angle of the fortress.
this angle is a level area,
vegetable
soil,
and
occupied
covered with
by
gardens.
176
Througli this area,
wliicli lies so
be seen from the battlements,
low that
it
can only
supposed that a
it is
canal formerly led, connecting the great harbour with
Port Mandraki.
From
the arsenals
Strabo's description of
dockyards at Rhodes,
it
may be
and
inferred that there
were interior basins, where galleys were
built
and
and which probably were screened from
refitted,
by high
observation
The
walls.
Port Mandraki and the
between
ground
larger harbour
may have
served for such a basin.
tower of
De NaiUac and
St.
level
Between the
Catharine's gate,
a small mole runs across the great harbour, behind
which caiques are moored
shahow water.
in
This
mole may mark the ancient commencement of an

inner basin.
The mole,
tower of
at the extremity of
has been an Hehenic work.
St. Nicholas,
The lowest
which stands the
covu-ses of the original
in several places undisturbed
which has been cut
masonry remain
on the native rock,
in horizontal beds to
receive
them.
At
the end of the mole, enormous blocks from the
ancient breakwater
Two
other.
of these are
As
doubtless,
the
still
in position,
conspicuous sea-mark,
my
its
one above the
pedestal,
of St. Nicholas
was
suggested originally to
that
and that
now
if
impression
first
immense blocks
remains of
fort
scattered about.
celebrated bronze Colossus was,
used as a Pharos,
these
lie
not actiially
on seeing
they were the
it
stood where the
stands.
This opinion,
my mind
by the aspect of
^.^^rg
r^.^
i"
--TV.
...I.
^^
;^-^Jfe"V3.ry
RHODES. DE NAILLAC TOWER.
.;ô3idon,.Bihliolije<i.
bj Da-ySc
IN
the site
itself, is
177
THE LEVANT.
corroborated by the testimony of
Caoursin, the Vice-Chaucellor of the Order, whose
contemporary history of the

at
Ulm as
early as 149(3.
was printed
first siege
"\Ylien
describing the build-
ing of Fort St. Nicholas, he states that it was placed

" molis vertice Septentrionera spectante ubi
in
priscis
temporibus collosus
ille
de septem miraculis mundi)

other hand,
it
may be
ingens Rhodi (nnum
On
positi;s erat."^^
objected that from Pliny's
we may
account of the overthrow of the Colossus
on the earth, whereas,
infer that
it
down from
the extremity of the mole,
fail
fell
to have fallen into the sea.
have been
sjjlit
It
The notion
if
thrown
could hardly
may, however,
fall
after-
along the
that its legs bestrid the entrance
to either harbour, as
based on any ancient
The mole
it
open by the earthquake, and
wards been hauled down, so as to

mole.
the
is
commonly
believed,
is
not
authority.'''*
of the great harbour on which the wind-
mills stand is also
an Hellenic work, with massive
foundations, which, hoAvever, cannot be seen from
To
the inside of the harbour.
harbom-
is
the east of the great
a small bay, called Archandia, protected
on the east by a ridge of rock, on which, as has

been already noticed, are the remains of an ancient
mole.
This bay
is
unsuited for a harbour, as
exposed to the north, and contains rocks
may have
it
but
is
it
served as a place of refuge for vessels
beating up against a strong north wind.
So
fai'
as I have been able to ascertain,
dations of ancient buildings
have been discovered
within the walls of the forti'ess
no foun-
but
it is
probable
178
that
many
within
temples and other public edifices stood
The present Bazaar may

The ancient city
precinct.
its
occupy the place of the Agora.
was probably
most part
for the
stone, covered with stucco
built
of calcareous
and the greater part of
such materials woidd, in the course of ages, be
broken up into rubble, and leave no trace by which
now be
they might
recognized in the walls of more
modern structm-es.
Very few ancient
arcliitectural
be found in the Turkish town.
marbles are
now
to
In every direction,
however, are to be seen small circular
cippi,
which,
from the inscriptions they bear, seem to be, for the
most
part, the pedestals of Iconic statues.
name
instances, the
the statue
sepulclu'al
Many
some
of these pedestals are probably
and, being circular, and of no great
may have been
bulk, they
who executed
recorded below that of the person
is
represented.
of the sculptor
In a few
distance.
easily transported
At present they
from
serve as horse-
blocks at the doors of the houses.

If
ancient
3,000 statues,
pedestals
still
Rhodes contained, as Phny states,

the great number of these inscribed
extant
is
not surprising.
What were the limits of the ancient city on the

we have no means of ascertaining. After
south,
passing through the Jewish cemetery outside the

ramparts,
we come
to a belt of suburbs on that side,
inhabited by Greeks, and enclosed with high garden

walls,
into
remains are
Beyond
which inscriptions and other ancient

built.
this
subm"b are rock-cut tombs extending
179
IN THE LEVANT.
over
miles
for
Stephen's
may
these tombs
wliole
tlie
bet-ween
district
St.
Many
and the eastern shore.
hill
of
be seen half-buried in the sand
along the shore, between the suburb of St. John and

the bed of a winter torrent Avhich anciently flowed
through an ample rock-cut channel to
On
the
sea.
many Greek names
side of this duct
left
the
have been cut on the scarped face of the rock.
bridge,
the lower
part of
which
of
built
is
massive regular courses, and which appears to be

Hellenic, crosses this stream,
and doubtless marks
the line of the ancient road leading to

AA-ith
tombs on each
to the south
with a
is
side of
it.
the
little
ftu'ther
Symbulh, a most picturesque
fine fountain
city,
spot,
overshadowed by plane-trees.
The grateful and refreshing shade of tliis spot,

and the excellent quality of its water, make it a
favourite place of resort for the Rhodiotes on their
joum
and
de fete,
flows,
into
is
foot in diameter,
of dancing
ft-ieze
Symbulli
1-|
figaires,
less frequented
which the fountain
Ross noticed a fi'agment of an
marble, nearly
been a
was probably not
it
Near the basin
in antiquity.
now
altar of white
on which has
nearly
efi"aced.
situated on the right bank of a ravine,
at the point
where
which was probably
it
is
crossed by an aqueduct,
built
by the Knights.
The
plane-trees are overlooked by a rocky ridge running
from S.W. to N.E., which on both sides and at

north extremity
is
its
cut into steps.
Near Symbulh are a number of rock-cut tombs,

one of which is locally known by the name. Tomb of
the Ptolemies, for no other reason than that a coin
N 2
180
of one of that dynasty
on
AND DISCOVERIES
ITiAVELS
this
This tomb has been engraved and
site.
by Ross
described
said to have been discovered
is
in
his
" Archaologische Aiif-
satze.""
It has
been cut out of a small
between
situated
two
ravines,
channels of winter torrents.
hill
of sandstone
which
form
the
The form of the tomb
more than 88 feet square, and

resting on three steps, above which has probably
been a pyramid cut oiit of the rock. On each side
is
a basement rather
of the basement are twenty-one engaged columns of
Their capitals are broken
very slender proportions.
away
but, as they are Avithout bases, they
were
probably Doric, though the shafts are not fluted.
Ross calculates that their height, inclusive of the

architrave, did not probably exceed 5 metres,
^^îtb.
diameter of 48 centimetres.
Large masses of the base
lie
at the foot of the
monument, which have been broken away
either
by
earthquakes or the undermining force of the torrent

floT\-ing
below.
preserved.
to be found
pillar
On
Only the north side has been well

side is the only entrance
this
a doorway between the
fifth
now
and sixth
from the N.W. angle, Avhich leads into an
antechamber, communicating with a second chamber,

for the reception of
round which are long recesses

bodies.
long,
This chamber
and about 14^
been plundered of
is
rather
feet wide.
its
more than 22
feet
It has long since
contents, and
contains
no
fi'agment of sarcophagi or other sepulchral remains.

It is evident,
from the position of these chambers,
that they occupy only one-fourth of the whole area
181
IN THE LEVANT.
of the basement
and as there
tomb has ever been opened

possible
that,
in
no sign that the
is
any other part,
it is
the ruins round the base were
if
cleared away, other chambers might be disclosed.
The upper part of
monument
this
is
now covered
with earth, on which trees are growing, and

that
possible
heaped over
originally
similar
an earthen
monuments,
it
am
it
is
mound may have been

but from the analogy of
inclined to think that
it
was surmounted by a pyramid.
With regard
is
it
to the age of this
no sure evidence to
may be
work of the
o-iiide us.
monument, there
Ross tliinks that
later Hellenic period
same time he observes with truth that

has more
affinity
at the
its
design
with Oriental, and especially with
PhcBnician, than with purely Greek types.
Between
this
tomb and
St. Stephen's hill,
and
for
a considerable distance to the south of Symbidli, are

a succession of low table-lands, formed of tertiary
limestone and sandstone, out of which vast quantities
of building materials have been quarried by
the ancients
and
met with
are to be
bers,
long since
all
through this
tombs
district
mostly plain sepidchral cham-
rifled of their contents.
Ross thinks that the walls of the ancient city

enclosed
much
of this waste land, and he
traces of
them
in several places at the distance
met with
an hour and a half from the modern town.
of
The
massive materials of which these walls were com-
posed have long since disappeared, and were probably
employed by the Knights to build

with.
On
theii"
fortress
the other hand, the form of the ground
182
has jjrobably been mucli clianged by the severe
earthquakes to which Ehodes has been from time

to time subjected
so that,
though
cannot quite be
it
said of this once famous city, etiam periere mince, its
than that of most Hellenic
site is far less striking
from the absence
cities
of
marked and
definite
features.
I feel, therefore, that the few disconnected facts
which I have here noted down are of

interest
though
little
present
they may, perhaps, aid future

ancient topography of
travellers in exploring the
Rhodes.
XIV.
Rhodes, Mai/
FEW days ago,
1853.
M. Ducci, the
I started with
Russian Vice-Consid, to pay a
i,
visit to
the monastery
of Zambika, five hom'S distant from Rhodes, on the
south coast of the island, where the inhabitants of

the adjoining village of Archangelo were celebrating
their Easter, called 'ha^wpri
arrival,
full
we were ushered
by the Greeks.
On
our
into a spacious courtyard
In the middle of the crowd was
of peasants.
the only ecclesiastic in the monastery, an old gentle-
man
with a venerable beard, a long gown, a black
cap, such as
and a
we
see in pictures of the 15th century,
staff in his
hand.
(See Plate 12.)
He came
forward and gave us a hospitable welcome, making
an attempt to salute
me
^vith a kiss
on each cheek
PU^c
THE
ARCHIMANDRITE
KA N DR
12
IN THE LEVANT.
183
and then
our beards met, crossed bayonets,

treated
and I could not help
had done well
re-
feeling that nature
outwork as a de-
in giving us this
fence against a very ancient, but rather disagreeable
custom.
The Archimandrite Nikandros

with this patriarchal salute
worthy of a
pi'iest,
man who seems

position than he now
a
is
He was
educated by the celebrated Kairy,

the boldness to attack the cor-
ruptions of the Greek Church, and

like all
received us
who had
occupies.
obscure
less
who
who was rewarded,
premature reformers, with a prison, in which
he ended his days.
Nikandros, though
he has
escaped the fate of his master, has, however,

fered
much
^persecution from the
kept a school at Scio, but gave
Archbishop interfered
to exclude
all
A\atli
suf-
Greek clergy
he
up because the
the teaching, and wished
it
the classical authors and to substitute
the Fathers.
The monastery of Zambika, where Nikandros

a lonely j^lace where an anchorite might
lives, is
have dwelt
in
perfect
and the simplicity of
way
of
life
of
his
Greek
forms
is
The
keeping with this secluded spot.
purity
classical
his
striking-
contrast Avith the patois of the peasants round
him
he has a small library of ancient authors, with which
he appeared to be well acquainted.
The monastery where Nikandros
now
or
only tenanted by one
prior
temple
is
among
monk
a large building,
dwells,
its
Hegumenos,
serving,
the ancient Greeks,
though
like
the
as a place of
gathering, or 'jpanegyris, for the siu-rounding district.
TRAVELS ANP DTSCOVEKIES
184
Wlien we looked round the quadrangle, I saw a

The whole populapicturesque and curious scene.
were gathered together in
tion of several villages
the open
air,
mules picketed outside
their
family provided with
They were
which
is
all
own cooking
costume
be met with in those islands
to
still
where the
printed
tasteless
Manchester have not
calicoes of
apparatus.
dressed in the picturesque
Archipelago
of the
its
each
superseded
yet
the native products of the spinning-wheel and the
loom.
The Ehodian
peasants, both male and female, wear
woven by
snow-wliite dresses spun and
hands, from flax grown on their
can
more
be
than
beautiful
own
the
their
soil.
own
Nothing
of
efiect
this
by
contrast of tawny weatherbeaten limbs and
white drapery in
the
the strong sunlight, set
off
faces.
was
so struck with the costume of the
that I did nothing but
whereat
my
friend,
growing alarmed, told

tions
till
fix
my
eyes
the
Russian
me
to reserve
men might
scrutiny.
Vice-Consul,
my
observa-
was rather amused
women
saw me take out
Avas afraid that
my
not understand the motive of
so far as personal
beheld
upon them
they began to dance, when I might look
on without being remarked, as he

the
women
less
at this caution, for
beauty was concerned, I never

attractive.
my note-book
As soon
as they
to describe the scene,
they gathered round me, like minnows round
crmnb of bread, and on every

of TiypoL^si,
"
"Wliat
is
side I heard the cries

he writing? " When I ex-
185
IN THE LEVANT.
was taking notes of tlieir dresses,

an aged crone stepped forward on belialf of her
sex, and initiated me into the arcana of Rhodian
plained that I
toilette
with a frankness which
left
nothing for the
imagination.
A Ehodian
head
is
side
which
rontadum may be thns described
covered with a Fez cap of red cloth
the head
a shawl
is
wound round
her
out-
the crown of
outside the shawl again a muslin veil
hangs doAvn from the back
of the
neck
in true
antique style, with an inner veil appearing under-
neath
On
it.
the
fi'ont
of
the
head
is
o'old
or silver ornament of a triangular form fastened to

garnet, and
hang ornaments,
suspended by httle chains. This kind of ornament
is clearly of Byzantine origin.
So much for the
the shawl
from
in the centre is
base
the
of
the
a large
triangle
"^^
head-di'ess.
With regard to the rest, the innermost garment is a shift, falling nearly to the ancles
then comes a garment without sleeves, reaching
about half-way down the leg, under the skirt of

which the edge of a pair of trousers is just visible.
Over
this is
the waist
though
influence
is
worn a jacket with
sleeves.
Eound
a girdle, loosely and gracefully tied,
cannot say that it had any of the magic

which Homer attributed to the cestus of
Venus.
Quaint Turkish shppers, turned up at the toes,
and clean white stockings complete this dress,
in
which, as in
there
is
most things
in the Archipelago,
a mixture of classical and Turkish fashions.
186
The general material was
white cloth,
edged
with a border worked by the hand with patterns

very like those of the old Greek borders.
were
borders
was
petticoat
the
sometimes
The outer
colour.
waist,
so
as
of
side
at
of
silk
bright
was gathered
of
full
in
at
a fashion
plaits,
eai^ly
this
embroidery, meeting the border of the
stripe of
skirt
be
One
blue.
Greek sculptm-e.
Down
garment was a perpendicular
very usual in the

the
of
petticoat
to
and
red
generally
These
angles
right
this
which occurs
stripe,
constantly in the costume of figiu-es on Greek vases,
was
by the ancients parujohe.
called
saw the people of Ai'changelo
I next
The whole
in
hand
centre
and
danced
roimd
of an irregular crescent.
dance.
joined hand
fiddler
The
the
in
fiddle, still
was of a most ancient form, such as

to be found on the very late Pagan and early
called
is
men and women,
village,
Xypa,
Christian
sarcophagi.
from which hang
is
played with a bow,
The
bells.
little
very curious figure,

quaint contortions
It
who accompanied
fiddler
his
was a
music with
Tyrtûs, he was lame.
like
The
music was an incessant, monotonous repetition of the
same tune,
to
which the
feet
of the whole chorus
beat time with marvellous precision.
very simple one,
two
The
step
side steps, the left foot
then the right foot advanced once; this
movement repeated
was a
first,
simple
The only merit
eternally.
of
the dance consists in the perfect regularity with
which the corps de
ballet is drilled.
called Rhoditil'os choros
but
am
This dance
told that
it
is
is
187
IN THE LEVANT.
borrowed from Crete. Possibly it has been derived

fi'om one of those miUtary dances for which the
Cretans were celebrated in antiquity.
"Within the
regular hand-in-hand crescent of dancers one or two
men
appeared from time to time at the side of the
fiddler, joining
with him in very grotesque antics, in
which an enthusiastic Phil-Hellene might discern the

tradition of the mimetic dances of the ancients.
In the early part of the morning the jiictme of

the Panagia was brought out of the church
and
exposed to the gaze and kisses of the multitude for
more than an hour.

a
new
I should think she
had taken such pains
when she had

I expect
you
and, taking
would require
The
coat of varnish next week.
old lady
costmne for me,
to analyze her
finished her explanations said
"Now
something to the Panagia,"
to give
me by
who
the hand, led
me up
to the great
goggle-eyed picture, which I did not kiss, com-
pounding
for
this
ceremony by a
liberal
of
dole
piasters.
In the church I saw people sticking gold coins

with wax on the faces of the saints
has been handed
down
fi*om
Pagan
this
custom
times, for
it
is
described by Lucian."
On
foimd
going down to the village of Archangelo,

it
nearly emjDty of
its
inhabitants.
a Greek village on the day of a
festival,
we
After seeing
one can under-
stand those stories in antiquity of towns being taken
by
surprise,
inhabitants
the
were
enemy marching
engaged
neighbouring temple.
which had just been
at
in
while
the
in
the
festival
saw here a large church,
built.
The roof was formed
TRAVELS ANn DISCOVEUIES
188
by
Gothic
intersecting
The
stone.
teiuphtm,
vaults
the
as
was separated from the
rest
solidly
end
east
the
of
of
l)uilt
called,
is
chnrch by
a lofty rood-loft covered with elaborate carving in

very bad taste.
I inquired Avhere they
had found
money to build such a church, and was told that it

was the result of contributions in kind, the peasants
having severally given so
building
the
many
having
materials
days' labour, and

in
manner
It was
like
been furnished by the richer inhabitants.
doubtless by similar free gifts that such magnificent

chvirches
and abbeys were
built in the
Middle Ages,
in spite of difficulties of communication
and a most
imperfect development of commercial credit.
Gothic style seems to have been
the
tradition of
The
retained at Rhodes since the time of the Knights,

I
had so many questions
stayed in the church
till
to ask the priest, that I
was roused by a warning
cry from without of /%//'', p^ylU, "Fleas, fleas;"
my
and looking down, saw

of
files
me
by
with
monster
lilack
escalade.
my
hands
trousers covered vntli
who were storming

dashed down the leaders
fleas,
but they continued to crawl in
such quantities that I should have been devoured

Avithout the assistance of the good-natured peasants,
who laughed
They explained
for
naturally
days
several
swarmed with
angel himself (to
had no power
in
fleas,
whom
the
the
church,
whom
to me,
on their
the whole population had Ijeeu
that as
knees
excessively.
it
very
even the Arch-
church
is
dedicated)
to excommunicate.
At Archangelo
is
a castle Imilt by the Knights
189
IN THE LEVANT.
overlooking the village and

view.
On
commanding an
extensive
a tablet on the N.B. Avall I copied part
of an inscription in Gothic letters.

y
f"t
Castel
Signor fra
ingre maistrc
On the N.
On our
wall were fonr escutcheons of the Knights.
we
Rhodes
called Koskino, one of the cleanest and most flourishing in the island.
Here most of the inhabitants
are muleteers, and own a little land besides.
They
-way back
slept at a village near
are a thriving, active, fine-groAATi set of men, good
specimens of the peasant proprietor.

Externally the house of the Rhodian peasant
resembles those in the villages of Malta.
much
It is built
of squared blocks of freestone, the door on one side,
and very high up under the roof two small windows.
The roof
is flat,
and supported inside by one large
arch traversing the whole width of the house.

ceiling is
made
over which outside
of reeds,
The
is
thick bed of earth, which intercepts the fiercer rays
of the sun, and,
if
duly rolled, keeps out the ^nanter
rain.
Internally, the house forms one large
destitute of furniture.
is
(See Plate 13.)
room very
In one corner
the nuptial bed, raised high above the floor on
a kind of platform
The
in another corner the fireplace.
wall opposite the door
is
ornamented vnth an
imposing array of plates of the old Lindos ware,

each hung by a string.
They
are for ornament,
not for use, and form part of the dower which every
190
The designs
bride brings with her.

are generally
patterns
floral
the
similar to that of the Italian Majohca,
and execution.
material
in
Persian in character, that
some
it
of these plates
fabric
seems
though coarser
The designs
are
so
has been thought by
archgeologists that these plates were aU im-
ported from the East to Rhodes.
There
is,
how-
ever, reason to believe that the greater part of those

still
for
existing in the island are of native manufacture,
on some of them are escutcheons with heraldic
Below these
bearings.
plates
stretches
string
hang embroidered
napkins wrought with very good taste by the women
of the place below these ornamental hangings is a
row of large cupboards, containing various household
right
the wall
across
from
it
In another corner hangs the bread-
implements.
basket, which
is
a large tray
made of reeds, suspended

way of
after Easter-day, we saw
fi'om the ceiling, so as to be quite out of the
aU animals.
Arriving just
the Easter bread which had just been made, and
which
lasts as a stock for
like a ring.
many weeks
On another wall was
it is
in
form
a horizontal string,
from which depended the Sunday clothes of both
men and women,
all
scrupulously clean.
l)eautifully
On
embroidered and
one side of the
fireplace I
noticed a round earthen pot shaped like a bushel,

in
which the forks and spoons are kept
this is called Icnttalotlielx,
The mortar
the pestle
pfs'p',
is
still
and hence
xurraXoS^'xr).
called
lyor],
pronounced
7815
or the hand.
The implements of spinning are unchanged from

antiquity. The spindle is still called aVpaxro the iron
;
191
IN THE LEVANT.
liook at the top, ayxivapi

at the bottom,
cotton
is
o-ttovouXij
wound
is
round part or whirl
tlie
the distaff round which the
called pauxa, proliably fi'om the
Itahan rocca.
We
arrived at Koskino at the end of a feast, and
found the beginning of a

dished high in the
fray.
saw the
done.
Half the village took part
quarrel
women
and children out of the

"
in
the original
the turbans were rolled in the gutters
out came the
last,
knife bran-
but there was no great harm
air,
What
does
it
at
to drag their husbands
melee.
concern us, Chellebi,"
philosophic muleteer; "it
is
said
my
the Sultan's busmess,
not ours, to look after the lives and safety of his
Let them
subjects.
they mil;"
stick laiives into each other if
a most
Levantine
sentiment.
This
much nearer Rhodes than Archangelo,

it was cm'ious to see how the indu'ect influence of
European civihzation was spoiling the costume. The
village being
Manchester printed cotton blended

terns
mth
tawdry pat-
the simple, classical colours of the original
island dress.
in the
its
There was,
too, a corresponding
manners of the people
scene was less
change
they danced, but the
idyllic.
XV.
Ehodes, Ma;/
I HAVK just returned

I
was
accompanied
named Panga, a
from an excursion,
by
sort of
Koslciniote
Rhodian
12, 18-33.
in
which
mideteer,
Gil Bias, witty,
TRAVELS AXD DISCOVEEIES
192
ready to turn
clever,
liis
hand
to anything,
good or
bad.
The shrewd, roguish twinkle
me at
once that he would be an admirable viezzano in
in his eye told
He
purchasing antiquities fi'om the peasants.
is
an
and a very agreeable companion to
excellent cook,
any one who knows Greek.
Our
was to pay a visit to Lindos, the

most
ancient city which traded with
site of that
Egypt long before Ehodes was founded, and which
is
object
first
mentioned by Homer
he
Our road
village,
the
lay along the south-eastern shore of the
We
island.
which
line in
names of lalysos and Kaniiros.
the
records
same
in the
slept the first night at our muleteer's
Koskino, and started for Lindos at 5 a.m.
next
For
morning.
of our route
the
we kept along
hours
three
first
the sea-shore, passing
over a barren sandy country, thrown into fantastic
At
shapes by earthquakes.
we turned
8 a.m.
little
Be-
inland along an ancient road cut in the rock.
tween
this pass
mountain.
more
and the sea there
a high craggy
is
After traversing this pass,
hilly country,
passing on our
of Archangelo, and on
fortress called
PoUanda.
we
left
entered a
the village
our right the ruins of a
At
four and a half hours'
distance from Kosldno, Ave crossed the last ridge of

hills,
and descended into a
village of
plain, in
Mallona, surrounded by
planted
mth
walnut
trees.
alono- a level
orange, lemon,
From
shore
Lindos, to which
road, flanked
this
till
fig,
fertile
is
the
gardens,
pomegranate, and
village
-\\dthin
which
the road keeps
a short distance of
we ascended by a
by tombs on each
steep and broken

side.
The town
-rt
193
IN TEE LEVANT.
is
beautifully situated
on the summit of
stood,
and
of
base and side of a rock,
now crowned by
a mediasval
This rock
headland jutting out
ancient Acropolis
tlie
by the Knights.
built
castle,
tlie
-wliicli
is
-n-liicli
on
towards
is
Egypt,
joart
and
makes a very conspicuous sea-mark on the southern
From
coast.
tall
the centre of the castle walls rises a
palm-tree, the feathery hghtness of which forms
a striking contrast to the stern and massive battle-
ments from which it springs.

apartments ornamented
In the castle are some

tlie
-n-ith
remains of land-
scapes painted in fresco, and inscril)ed with Gothic
legends
the fleiir-de-lys of France
over one of the chimney-pieces.
sculptm-ed
is
On
the walls of
one of the rooms are the arms of the Order, and of

the Grand Master D'Amboise.
Lindos
is
full
of specimens of tlie architecture of
The
the Knights.
most picturesque, mth
streets are
The houses,
arched passages thrown across them.

,
though more than three centuries

l)uilt
yesterday; and
it is
old, are fresh as if
curious that in this obscure
corner of the Turkish empire
we have
as well pre-
served specimens of the military architecture of
Europe
in the 15th century as perhaps
Europe
itself.
done
little
Knights.
a
cupola.
Tlie
injury
in
Turks have here, as at Rhodes,

to
the
buildings
left
by
the
The principal church is Byzantine, with

At the west end is a lêll- tower
added by the Knights of

of one
anywhere
of their
St.
John, with the arms
Order sculptured
on the wall
the walls and vaulted roof inside are covered -âth

fi'escoes
representing Christian legends.
On
the
194
wooden screen
templum,
separates the
wliicli
or
cliancel, from the church, are two curious paintings
one representing
oiu-
Saviour, the other the Virgin
The Saviour
with the infant Christ in her arms.
Under
hokls a book in his hand.
tliis
picture
is
the
foUoAâng inscription in Byzantine Greek.

"
The
Eemember
also
thy seiTant George and
letters are in brass,
The
fleur-de-lys.
liis
wife."
ornamented with a kind of
The
The
features are coarsely shaded.
face of the Christ has probably been repainted.
eyebrows of the Virgin meet.

ties,
and dress of these
figm'es,
The
nimbi, extremi-
and the book held by
the Savioiu", are relieved in metal, which appeared to
be
silver-gilt.
From
the style of the painting and metallurgy, I
should infer that these pictures were perhaps of as

early a period as the 12th century,
difficult to
though
judge of Greek paintings
very
it is
in churches, as
they are constantly renewed and beautified, to repair

the damages sustained by the intense kissing they
go through at the
On
feasts.
one of the walls of this church
is
a fresco
representing a number of angels playing on musical
instruments
a figure
lying down, to
is
whom
they
are ministering.
On the
south side is a rude rehef, of
representing a palm-tree, above which
Within the
castle
ancient Acropolis,
inscriptions
are
They contain
and
numerous
is
are a
published
dedications
times,
a rosette.
many marbles
among which
discovered
Roman
fi-om
the
number of
by
to
Ross.
Athene
195
IN THE LEVANT.
Near the governor's

house is a piece of wall which Ross recognized as
Fragments of
part of the cdJa of a Doric temple.
Liudia and Zeus
its
architectTU'e
Polieus.^"
remain
still
in.
and on
side of the Acropolis,
On
situ.
the S.E.
highest point,
its
is
the wall of another temple, built on the very edge of
the precijiitous rock, and hence incorporated in the
subsequent wall built by the Knights round their

castle.
Ross found very few traces of the architec-
ture of this t(?niple, but supposes that

like the other.
He
it
was Doric,
thinks that the temple on the
summit of the Acropolis must fi-om its commanding

Athene Lindia, who from
position have been that of
the evidence of the inscriptions found here seems

to have occupied a higher place in the worship of
in
these
dedicatory
whom
name is associated
inscriptions.
The temple of
Lindos than Zeus, with
her
Athene Lindia was of remote antiquity ; its foundation was attributed in Greek legend to Danaos and
his daughters.
Many
precious and celebrated works
of art were stored up here as votive offerings, the

earliest of
which were ascribed
to the
mythic period.
Here were shown a brazen caldi'on inscribed Avith

Phoenician characters and dedicated by Cadmus, and
the model in electrum of a female breast, the offering
of Helen on her retm-n from Troy here m the 5th
ceutmy B.C., Amasis, king of Egj-pt, dedicated two
;
marble statues and a cuirass of

jjiece
of textile art
and
linen,
a master-
here, in letters of gold,
was
preserved a copy of the ode in which Pindar has
immortalized the Olympic A^ctory of the Rhodian

Diagoras.^"
196
The temple
of wliicli Ross discovered the remains,
and which probably occupies the original

secrated to Athene,
its
was of very small dimensions,
intermediate between
scale being
con-
site
of the
that
Ei'ectheum and the Temple of Victory at Athens.
The
of the ancient theatre
site
Most of the
Acropolis.
native rock, and face the S.B.
on one side
is
south of the
seats are cut out of the

;
on the opposite
sixteen rows remain

side, the seats
must
have been constructed with masonry.
Immediately to the west of the theatre

perlhoJos of
is
the
an ancient temple, described both by
Hamilton and Ross, and which we found
in a fair
state of preservation.
The
walls
precinct
is
are
of blue
limestone.
"Within this
a chapel, dedicated to St. Stephen, antece-
dently to which a Byzantine church on a larger scale
probably occupied this

lying here is an
of Apollo and
To
site.
On
a square block
inscription, dedicated
by a
priest
Artemis.**''
the west of the town are the remains of the
interesting rock tomb, of which a view
the frontispiece to Ross's Travels, vol.

sisted originally of a large sepulchral
is
iii.
given as
It con-
chamber cut
in the native fi'eestone rock, with oblong recesses,

thecce,
bodies.
cut in the sides for the reception of the dead
Externally the
tomb has
lêen cut in the
form of a Doric facade with engaged columns, the

centre part of which
this fafade the
rock
is
is
now broken away.
Above
cut so as to form a level plat-
form, on which have been placed a
number
of round
sepvdchral cippi, ornamented with bulls' heads and
197
IN THE LEVANT.
One of these seems
festoons.
to be
still
in position
four others are lying on the ground in fiônt of the
tomb.
Ross considers that
Macedonian period
it is
At
Jannathi.
fi-om Lindos,
tombs cut
"\ve
of grey marble
an hour's
to a place
called
Ipng together
on the ground here an
From
altar
a heap
so as to form a
mound,
I noticed
with festoons, and part
of grey marble
but no inscriptions.
this place to Jannathi I continued to note at
intervals ancient remains alomy the shore.

in
tliis
and
part of
my
form
classical
marked
so
as
I noticed
route cattle of a very beautiful

the bulls had a slight
the
Indian
modelled about the forehead.

to be partially wild.
them
Peukona
is
where there
forest,
probably the remains of a watch-tower.
of a cippus
distance
After riding for an hour and
we came
end of a pine
at the
half
the shore
found some ancient quarries and
in the rock.
a half more,
in Lycia.*'^
we rode along
After leaving Lindos
of the
is
very similar in character to
some of the Hellenic tombs

tovfards
Doric facade
this
bull's,
hump, not
and were
finely
These bulls are said
The peasants
of
Rhodes
call
whereas the usual name for oxen
vauôi,
Keeping along the shore, we got
is
to Jannathi,^"
distant about five hours to the south of Lindos.
This village
were
is
buildinof
a very miserable one, but the peasants
fine
new
church.
Thence we
crossed over a mountain-ridge to Apolakkia on the
W.
where I had heard that some inscriptions

had been found.
The island is narrow here, and
coast,
198
On
destitute of cultivation, witli very few villages.
our right we saw ]\Iount Atabyron,
and naked mass,
side appears a bleak

at its
On
base.
our
was
left
wliicli
on
this
ti'eeless,
except
Mesanagros.**"
JSTear
Apolakkia, at the distance of a quarter of an hour
from the
village, are
the remains of a church called
Agia Irene, which had just been dug up. Among

the ruins were several columns and slabs of white
marble, which appeared to be Byzantine of the 11th
On
or 12th century.
one of the slabs I found a
long inscription very legible.

of the people of
been a
it
JSTetteia,
It contains a decree
which doubtless must have
Rhodes, though I can find no trace of
city in
The
elsewhere.
inscription also mentions a reli-
gious society called Euthahda?, and several other

curious particulars.
I tried to
buy
this marble,
had completed the pm'chase with the

primate
or
but alas
who
of the village,
priest
TrfiosG-rcog,
was thwarted by the

forbade
went away sorrowing, and on
so I
and
the
bargain
my
retui'n to
Rhodes, addressed myself to the Archbishop, who

promises to get
small
sum
There
a castle at Apolakkia very roughly built,
in the walls of
;
From
which
is
an escutcheon of the Knights
but the masonry appears rather Turkish
than Christian.
here.
the stone in consideration of a
to be paid as a present to the church.
is
of Rhodes
me
Tobacco, cotton, and corn are gTOwn
this
place
we went along
the shore
northward, through a barren country to Monolithos,

distant
two hours.
About halfway we passed a
down to the shore from

Monolithos we remarked many frag-
vast landslip stretching

this
spot to
IN
199
THE LEVANT.
ments of pottery and traces of ancient buildings.
The country seems to have been much disturbed by

earthquakes.
At a quarter of an hour fiôm the
of Monolithos
village
a castle of the Knights,
is
perched on the top of an isolated rock overlooking
The name
the sea.
marble,"
is
of the village, MovoTîSog, "all
derived from
of this fortress and
The
Within
this castle are roughly built.
of the
from being perched
Hke manner on the top of a rock.
in
situation
name reminded me
its
village in Mytilene called Petra,
in
The
this rock.'^*
it is
walls of
a chapel,
which I found a number of frescoes covered with
cobwebs, which appeared to be Italian of the 15th
They contained many
century.
and armorial
this chapel
figures of saints
bearings of the Knights.
Outside
were two saucers of Lindos ware
common
into the south wall, a fashion very
in Italy.
The arms of the Grand Master D'Aubusson

pear among the decorations.
On
of a
hill
little
N. of the
square Hellenic tower,
stones,
vdih heiATi
built
could trace out the foundations
with holes for the bolts are

length of the
the
wall
W. waU
is
43
ap-
village, are the ruins
of
im^\Tought
and door-jambs.
lintels
let
still
feet.
can be traced for 33
We
the door-jambs
standing.
On
feet.
The
the S. side,
North-east
of this tower are the remains of another building.
The W.
wall of this measured 47 feet 8 inches, the
N. side 39
feet 9 inches.
large blocks of stone.

is
These walls are
One
built of
of the largest blocks
6 feet 5 inches in length by 1 foot 10 inches in
thickness.
200
TKAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES
Within
this outer enclosure is an
W.
wall 24 feet 2 inches on the
inner line of
side
the founda-
tions ajDpear to be a square within the outer square.
From Monolithos we Arent to Siana, along

Mount Akramytis, Avhich runs towards
the
foot of
the
sea in a S.W. direction, and of which the height,
according to the Admiralty chart,
At Siana
I found
2,706
feet.
another castle of the Knights,
and evident remains of an Hellenic
About ten minutes

on the side of a
is
city.
N.W.
to the
of the Aallage,
was a rectangular basement,

composed of large marble blocks of Hellenic masonry.
The longest side, running N. and S.,
measured 10 feet 10 inches.
One of the blocks
was
hill,
by 2
7 feet 8 inches
6 niches.
Near
feet
this spot I
8 inches by 1 foot
observed a piece of
Nearer the village was a stone seat
Hellenic wall.
cut in the rock, and by the side of

originally jiart of the
it
On
by a chasm.
raised platform,
it
two
steps,
same rock, but separated from
the other side of the seat
with a deep groove at the
is
side.
The chasm between the seat and steps seemed

caused by an earthquake.
The platform reminded
me of the bema in the Athenian Pnyx.
On
this site are
remains of rock tombs which
seem to have been disturbed by an earthquake.

few yards higher up the
stone, 5 feet 7 inches
centre of the block
by
was a large block of

In the
feet 4 inches.
hill
by 3
was a
socket, 1 foot 10 inches
1 foot 3 inches square.
About twenty minutes

side of the
hill,
to the E. of the village, on the
exactly facing the castle,! found traces
Fragments of large
of au Hellenic burial-gTound.
were lying about,
jars
201
THE LEVANT.
IN
sucli as I
saw dug up by Mr.
Calvert in the Hellenic cemetery near
At
ward of
tlie
tlie
Dardanelles.
distance of about a quarter of an hour eastthis spot I
came
to a small ruined
church
Here are squared stones from some

ancient building, and columns lying in the church.
The
In the gateway is a sepulchral inscription.
called Ivyra.
ground was
whence
with fragments
strewn
this site is called
Kerami.
of
pottery
Advancing
the same eastward direction, I came to two
ruined
wall,
two
Agios
churches.
between which
is
Georgios
and
in
more
Aprasu,
the foundation of a great ancient
running N. and
S.
down
the
Near
hill.
it lie
colossal crouched lions half-buried in the ground.
Their heads are broken
about 5 feet 9 inches
oft';
their present length is
they are very coarsely sculp-
tured out of the blue marble of the district, and are
probably from the entrance to a tomb.

little
church Aprasu
from B. to
is
Inside the
an Hellenic aqueduct, running
W. and broken open
here.
with large slabs well squared, and
It is covered
is
lined
with
blocks of calcareous stone.
One
by 2
of the covering slabs measures 3 feet 8 inches
feet 7 inches in
The aqueduct appears
to terminate in a small well at
E. end of the church;
the
to
width by 13 inches in depth.

but this well appears
have been made in Christian times.
In a vine-
yard below the aqueduct are many squared blocks,
and the surface of the

It
is
tified,
field
is
strewn with pottery.
evident that some Hellenic city, not yet iden-
stood on or near the
site
of Siana.
202
This
is
a wild country
herdesses.
the
women
when he saw
who had never seen a live

was very much disappointed
these gaunt creatures striding along
in great jack-boots, with drapeiy
him no
grand Phidiac composition of
In the evening
we had
and matrons
some on the stone
all
round a semicircular
sat
seat at the bottom,
centre of the dance cast
the village did
own
me
state,
the
wall,
some on the
wood
fire
in the
on the
its flickering light
I sat in the
and the primate of
me
the honour of bringing
The
pipe, a particularly dirty one.
were very kind, hospitable people,
and
which was most picturesque.
middle on the chair of
folds.
a dance in the open air
top of the wall. It was moonlight
scene,
which appeared
better than a smock-frock, but in which
I discovered a
elders
shep-
all
Colnaghi,
shepherdess before,
to
are
his
inhabitants
full
of friendship
meet with
at Siana the
fleas.
was
so fortunate as to
rare silver coin of Hidrieus, Prince of Caria, which

I piirchased for
twelve piasters, or rather more than
two
While staying here
shillings.
some
I visited
ruins on the shore at a spot called Basilika, to the
N.W. of Siana. Our road skirted the north side of

Mount Akramytis, having Atabyi'on on the right.
Thence we turned to the west, and came in sight of
the sea.
Descending towards the shore, we came
to a place called Stellio,
square apertures cut in

further on,
where
it,
we passed on
is
probably tombs.
feet
A little
the right the ruins of a
tower of Hellenic masonry, the
measured 34
a rock with three
W.
side of
which'
10 inches, and the S. side 29
feet
203
IN THE LEVANT.
10 inches.
This place
is
our way
we examined
which
covered with brushwood.
is
hill
On
Marmaroulia.
called
called Agios Phokas,
Ascending
this
by a wall of polygonal masonry, within which were the foundations of an

I found
hill,
oblong
it
fortified
At the south end

lay as
had
it
The
much
by the
The
sculpture
and
is
draped
style,
destroyed to be worth removing
are wanting, and the body
smaller fragments
The base
is
is in
two
it
to
the
but too
the arms
pieces.
Several
of scidpture were lying about.
by 3
feet 2 inches
feet 7 inches.
was a
the northern part of the enclosure

6 feet 3 inches long,
parallel
sculptured
is
good
figure
in a
is
of its base
side
10 feet high,
marble.
-white
feet.
of this enclosure, a female statue
fallen,
has been about

in
39 feet by 18 feet 8 inches.
cella or temple,
and 2
feet
with the end walls.
In
large block
inch wide, lying
has at one end
It
oblong holes for clamps.
On
polis
W.
the
is
side of the hill the wall of the Acro-
an exceedingly fine specimen of polygonal
masonry, extending in length 100

height
is
8 feet 9 inches.
in this wall
On
measured 4
The
feet
the present
largest of the blocks
feet 7 inches
by 4
feet 1 inch.
examining the masonry, I noticed that on
several of the largest blocks the face of the stone

liad
been
lozenges,
hatched
chevrons,
Math lines forming bands of
and other patterns,
were plain traces of red
in Avhich
colour.*'
These ornaments were very similar

occur on the archaic Greek
fictile
to those
which
ware, fragments
of which have been found at Mycenge and Tii'yns,
204
and
TRAVELS AXD DISCOVErJES

wliicli
Las been,
tlierefore, referred witli miicli
probability to a remote antiquity.'"
On
and
tlie
wall
tlie
Tlie
east tlie fine polygonal
masonry
ceases,
built of rough, unliewn stones.
is
summit of Agios Phokas commands an
ex-
The
tensive view of the shore and adjacent islands.
whole
coast
On
Castellos.
seen
is
fiôm
the right
Yamurtos, behind which

the promontory locally
called in the
Basilika
is
is
Cape Monolithos to
a promontory called
Castellos
is
known
on the
left,
as Armanistes, but
Admiralty Chart, Cape Monolitho.

situated on a low
Agios Phokas by a
separated fi'om
The ruins here consist

a number of houses built with
valley.
of the foundations of
square rough
hill,
hewn blocks
of Hellenic masonry.
Ross considers these foundations as the remains of

a medieval village built
supposition which
is
of ancient
not improbable.
materials
One
of these
houses measured 35 feet 3 inches by 38 feet 2 inches.
The doorway was in width 4 feet 11 inches it had

an upright stone jamb on either side. The masonry
of these houses was very like that of the foundations
;
within the fortress at Chigri, in the Troad.

mite, p.
129.)
(See
could not discover traces of any
wall round these ruins.
From
Basilika
we went
to a place
on the shore
marked Kaniera in the Admiralty Chart.

ruined modern village.
Below, on the
Here
shore,
is
was
a square tower, which I did not examine.^^
From Kamera we
retraced our steps to Siana by
a different route nearer Akramytis, and passed by
some mors Hellenic ruins on
a hill called
Campanis,
THE LEVANT.
IX
on our
walls,
Here were foundations of houses and

and an ancient well. A little further on we
left.
passed on our
a hill called Kemisalla,
left
some Hellenic
also
205
From
walls.
where are
this spot the road
led straight to Marmaroulia, the spot already noticed
when we branched off in going from Siana to Agios

Phokas. The N.E. end of Akramytis seen from this
road presents a cui-ious study for geologists some
;
the strata being vertical,
of
others
twisted and
curled round like volutes.
Having heard
some other ancient remains
of
in
the neighbourhood of Siana, I determined to explore
At about an hour's distance to the N., near

foot of Mount AtabjTon, is a place called Agros,
them.
the
where
is
One
masonry.
Hellenic
S.W.
an angle remaining from
is
the same direction for 73

ing
angle
torrents.
also
been
has
The other
feet,
is
12
and
and may be traced
in
feet,
where the correspond-
carried
away by mountain
may
walls of this enclosure
The
be traced at intervals.
at the angle
running N.E.
wall
continuous for 29
a peribolos of
feet
the
heitjht of the wall
blocks
3 feet 9 inches by 1 foot 10 inches.

traces of an inner wall
are
about
There are
running parallel
mih
the
outer enclosure.
From Agros,
turning nearly east,
we rode
for half
an hour along the side of Atabyron, having Ala-amyt-is
called
on our
right,
till
Hepta Amartias.
we came
to a ruined church
In the walls are squared
Hellenic blocks, and a sepulchral cippus with festoons.

tello,
Thence we proceeded
to a hill called Cas-
about an hour south of Hepta Amartias, where
206
An
I noticed traces of several walls.
Hellenic
liill
fortress probably stood here.
we proceeded homewards
Mount Atabyron, which here
After these excursions
along the skirts of
comes down almost into the sea, bulging out into

great buttresses and spurs, so as hardly to leave
room for the road, which is cut in places out of the
It is a barren, shapeless
solid rock.
this
much
very
side,
mountain on
iîcturesque
less
than the
mountains of Mytilene, but exceeding them
in its
height, which, according to the Admiralty Chart,
4,068
feet.
is
had not time to ascend
I regret that I
summit to see the interesting remains of the

temple of Zeus Atabyrios, which still exist there,
and which are described by Hamilton, Ross, and
The ancient name of this mountain
Gucrin.'"
to the
now pronounced
is
clamber
over
the
We
Atap-os.
picturesque road,
continued
to
below which
deep ravines thinly clad with pines ran down to the

sea,
till
we came
excellent Avine.
to
It
is
Embonas, a
curious that the
by the ancients
mentioned
village
as
name
where
aixSwv
a Ehodian
is
is
word,
denoting a particular kind of steep mountain-ascent,
very applical)le to the country of Emlônas.^^

Close to Embonas, at a place called Koutzara, are
number of squared Hellenic blocks lying near the

ruins of an old church.
At the distance of rather
more than an horn' to the North is an ancient wall on
a hill called Kitala. A little to the N.W. of Embonas
a
is
Castellos,
where
on a steep rock.
Castellos
is
The
and Siana
a castle on the shore, perched

village is a poor one.
is
Between
chm-ch called Panagia
IX
207
THE LEVANT.
Amarto, wliere I uoticed a fragment of a Greek
Between
painted vase.
this cliurch
and the sea
is
square tower in ruins, built with mortar.

After passing
Embonas
the coast gradually Âîdens
the road passes through a country rather dischevelled
by earthquakes, and covered ^dth wheat then into

the rich garden-like strip of coast, which extends with
;
Here the palm-
intervals of barrenness to Rhodes.
tree once
We
more greeted our eyes
in the landscape.
passed Villa Nova, where there
castle built
fountain,
by the Knights, and
is
a stately old
close to
it
a fine
where the ample shade of plane-trees
vites the traveller to halt
and
rest.
The fountain
supjjhed by an aqueduct cut in the native rock,
square apertures in the sides to admit
we proceeded
to
air.
is
"w-ith
Thence
Ehodes.
Altogether I was very

expedition.
in-
much
The manners
pleased with this
of the peasantry at
are very frank and obliging.
little
Rhodes
The women have none
of the affected prudery which distinguishes the Greek
women
of
the
of the richer classes, nor
jealous
reserve
\\-hieh
is
there anything
makes the Greek
hourg com into a mere female slave,
who
is
ordered
about by her husband, but never recognized before

strangers by any conjugal token.
The Rhodian peasant does not fatigue his guest

Avith cumbrous hospitality as the Greek bourgeois
does he does not poison him with rakee, clog him
with sweetmeats, cram him with pilaff", and sicken him
with narguilehs he just lets him alone, and gives
him the best food he can find without any needless
apologies.
In the morning he receives a small sum
;
208
for the
board and lodging, and
is
grateful, instead of
asking his guest for British protection as the price of

a night's hospitality,
which happened
times in Mvtilene.
There
satisfaction
is
to
me
several
a feeling of mutual
is
when you part with
the peasant
there
when you take

you think him not quite so
a feeling of mutual disappointment
leave of the bourgeois;
good a fellow as he seemed over

before, because he has asked
which
it
his
wine the night
you to do something
would be discreditable to grant
he,
on the
contrary, ginimbles in his heart at having wasted so
much good
cheer on a Consul
who
is
" not of the
right sort."
In reference to the character and social condition

of the rural population of Ehodes, I ascertained the
following particulars.
Most of the land
in the island is in the
As each peasant
peasant proprietors.
holds as
with his
in
hands of
generally
much land as he can conveniently cultivate

own hands, and as the population is scanty
extent
proportion to the
cultivation, there are in
most
hands available as labourers

produce of the island
is
Eicher products, such as
of
land capable of
districts
but few spare
for hire.
for the
Again, the
most part wheat.
silk, olive-oil,
wine, tobacco,
are not
grown
class of
wealthy landowners, but are either con-
sumed
in
in sufficient quantities
to create a
the villages, or exchanged for foreign
commodities, such as coffee and sugar, imported by

the Jews and Frank merchants established in the
town of Rhodes.
Thus the Rhodian peasant, fed
and clothed for the most part by products grown on
IN THE LEVANT.
ovm
his
land,
209
and forced to labour on in a
cj'cle
of
primitive agricultural operations as in a treadmill,
never accumulates that surplus of profits by which

in the
richer
and more
seafaring aspirations
The
amphibious
race,
half
the
and
ventures,
piratical
and developed.
fostered
are
who spend
culturist,
trading and
fertile islands
mariner,
summer
the
half
agri-
trading or
in
winter in
desultory
agriculture, or in lounging about the cafes of the
Greek seaports, form only a very small part of the

population in the villages of Rhodes.
mode
of existence has
advantages and disadvantages.
The Ehodian
This simple and contracted

its
peasant
can seldom
assured that, even
rend
if
or write
and
the villages could
was
afford to
maintain schools, few parents would be willing to

give up their children's
services
long enough to
enable them to learn anything.
There
almost total deficiency of medical
art,
town of Rhodes
too,
an
except in the
whereas, in richer communities
like Mytilene, schools are
in the Aallages,
is,
very generally to be found
and here and there a doctor with an
European diploma.
On
the other hand, the Rhodian peasant has
many
excellent qualities, which, as he advances in ciâlization,
will,
perhaps,
deteriorate.
found them industriovis,

in their intercourse
is
have generally
thrifty, gentle,
and obliging
both with strangers and with
more truthful and honest than

have ever had to deal with. Travelling
one another, and
any Greeks I
far
considered safe in every part of the island
though outlaws are
to be seen
sometimes
in
and
the
210
TE.AVELS
AND DISCOVERIES
mountains, thieves and bad characters never find
any Rhodian
in
which
is
village that
countenance and shelter
accorded to them in
Their small transactions
no
settled with little or
many of the islands.

among themselves are
litigation,
and with
less of
those complex intrigues arising from the constant

interference of the rich and powerful with the course
of justice, which are the bane of society in the
Levant.
If there
is
no wealth, there
other hand, no pauperism.
on the
is,
After riding
all
through
the length and breadth of the island, I cannot call
mind
to
that I
was ever
solicited
to
give
alms,
except by lepers.
Of
course, wherever there are peasant proprietors,
land has a constant tendency to accumulate in fewer

hands, as want induces the peasant to mortgage
his
patrimony
Levant, small
and
in Rhodes, as elsewhere in the
cajîtalists are
not wanting, who, from
purely philanthropical motives,
gravely assured
me
as
one
the other day, lend
of them
money at
high rates of interest.
But the wants of the Rhodian peasant are very

limited on the one hand, and on the
other,
his power of parting with real property is very
restricted, in
consequence of
and elsewhere
its
strict
in the Ai'chipelago,
entail here,
in the
female
hne.^^'
The
priests in the
mere clowns,
tilling
Rhodian
villages
are generally
their land like the rest,
and
knowing just enough Greek to read the services of

their church.
They have, however, considerable
influence, not as spiritual advisers
and searchers of
THE
IN
211
IjEVAKT.
hearts in the confessionals, but as the ministers of a

ritual
which alone can counteract the superstitious
terrors with
the
which the sunny and joyous mind of
Ehodian peasant
is
from time to time
over-
shadowed.
In the course of
my
journeys, I have collected
the following curious particulars in reference to the

local
believers
certain
in
and
avsoahg, anerades,
The anerades
They
and customs.
superstitions
supernatural
Sa/ftovsj,
are firm
beings
called
or dcemons.
are female spirits, clad in white,
who
appear to unlucky benighted travellers when crossing

rivers.
Their apparition portends speedy death to the

hapless wight
acts the
who
sees them, unless a priest counter-
omen by reading verses
When
fi'om the Scriptures.
a birth takes place, no person whatever
allowed to enter the house, except the midwife,

the child
has been blest by a priest
and
is
till
it
is
customary for forty days after the birth to close

the
house-door at sunset,
and never to open
it
after that hour, for fear the anerades should enter
and carry
off
the child.
The dcemons are met with in the forests. I asked

He said that he
a peasant what they were like.
beheved them to have /*s o-ujiATraflsja aSis (the equivalent of, con rispetto parlato),
and said they were

vases.
He
is
like the figures painted
and
tails,
on Greek
admitted, however, that he had never
seen one himself
which
goat's legs
in the
Ross points that the word
modern Greek
still
vbô,
means " water,"
the root from which must be derived N^j5=u? and

p 2
212
TRAVELS AND PTSCOVEETES
Nv]pvjiio=j,
The
of whicli avspa^ss seems a corruption.
notion that the apparition of the anerades portends
may be
speedy death
rivers are
The
caught at night.
tion of the old
The
vs^hich
Greek
eye,
evil
oa/fiovst;
seem
to be a tradi-
satyrs.^'
called here jaar* (a corruption of
an object of
o[jL[j.a.Twv), is
of
derived from the fact that the
the places vi^here dangerous fevers are
much
dread, the evil effects
may, however, be counteracted by a fumi-
gation with burnt olive-wood, or by palm branches
given in church at Easter and blest by the priest.
At
funerals they break a pitcher of water over the
moment
grave at the
They
of interment.
also place
on the mouth of the dead person a piece of ancient
Greek
tile,
on which the priest inscribes the mystic
sign called pentalpha, and the words

vixu.
This
is
'l7](j-o5j
Xgio-roj
supposed to prevent the dead from
returning to earth as vampires, the belief in whose

existence
is
very general in the Tui'kish Archipelago.
At Rhodes, the vampire

Mytilene, 3oxoXao.
way
is
There
called xaraâvas
is
at
no readier or more
importunate or
tiresome Mytileniote than to say to him, " May tJie
effectual
of getting rid of an
vampire take you."
He immediately crosses
himself,
and withdraws.
I
was
told, that
once in Rhodes a dead Avoman
returned to earth in this unpleasant shape
upon
which, the priest of her village laid on the ground
one of the dead woman's
shifts,
over the Tieck of
which he walked, held up by two men,

vampire should
seize him.
he read verses from the
While
New
for fear the
in this position,
Testament,
till
the
swelled up and
sliift
lie
tliis
rent takes
supposed to escape through
In Mytilene, the bones of those
the opening.
not
When
split.
place, the evil spirit is
will
213
THE LEVANT.
IN
who
quiet in their graves are transported to
a small adjacent island, where they are reinterred.
This
effectual bar to all future vagaries, for the
an
is
vampu-e cannot cross
When,
salt water.
in digging a grave, bones fi'om a previous
interment are discovered, they are washed in wine
and then placed
in a
common
receptacle for such
remains.
At
and
Easter,
a lighted lamp
is
their
festivals,
placed in the tomb by the pious
At
care of relations.
most important
stated intervals after a death,
small comfits called Icolhjha are offered to every one

at the church door.
wheat boiled
in
These comfits are made of
water and mixed
Avith the seed of
pomegranates, sesame, nuts, almonds, and
These
offerino's
o are
made
Avild peas.
at the successive intervals
of one, three, sis, and nine
months from the date
of the death, and on the last day of the year.'"
This takes place during the
first
year after the
death; during each subsequent year the distribution
only takes place on the anniversary of the death.
The
three last-mentioned customs are, I believe, very
general
On
fire
among
the Greeks.
the eve of St. John the Baptist's feast, a bon-
is
which
made
all
before the door of each house,
the people
who pass by have
they have also water thrown over them.

is
an evident symbol of the
use of
fire
rite of
to
over
jump
This custom
Baptism
and the
seems to be an allusion to the words,
;;
214
"
He
shall baptize
you
Avitli tlie
Holy
Gliost
and
witli fire."
Every Rliodian peasant on the day of
makes
saint
patron
his
loaves, called Pentarthi, wliich he
five
cuts into small pieces and offers in church for the

benefit of the poor.
At
a marriage, after drinking
down behind them
a health, they fling the glass
does not break,
if it
a bad omen.
it is
Crossed knives are placed over the door of the
house to which the bride
conducted, to keep off
is
the evil spirits.
XVI.
Rhodks, Ju7ie
HAD
an unexpected
lately
visit
from
20, 1853.
my
friend
Mr. Finlay, of Athens, the well-known author of the

" History of the Byzantine Empire."
I
had
installed
him
my
in
house,
Just after
we got an im-
expected opportunity of making a trip to Scio, in a
Turkish
steamer
going
with
despatches
to
the
Governor-General of the Ai'chipelago, and so started

forthwith, accompanied
by Mr. Alfred
Biliotti.
our steamer only made six knots an hour,
not reach Cos
Touchmg
Scio,
till
the day after
there for an hour,
we had
left
we
As
did
Rhodes.
we then went on
to
where we were most hospitably and kindly
entertained by the British vice-consul,
M. Vedova.
His account of Scio was not very encouraging.

All
its
there
ancient glories seem to have departed. Trade
was none
British ships or subjects none
216
IX THE LEVANT.
Tlie luxuriant
business for the vice-consul none.

for wKicb. tlie island
fruit-trees,
brated, had been cut
membered
gi'eat frost
down by
materials for the
despatches of
diu'ing
ever to be re-
the
all
the consuls in
a whole Avinter.
It
supposed that such a frost had not been for

years, because
it
cele-
two years ago, which furnished
the
Ai'chipelago
had been so
is
fifty
destroyed trees of that age.
Scio has a rich level shore, out of which bold
bleak mountains rise abruptly

sea,
it
but seen from the
has not the beauty of Mytilene, from the
absence of olive-trees on the
We went
tions
hill-sides.
over the castle, of which the
fortifica-
had a more modern character than those of
Mytilene and Rhodes.
I noticed a great niunber of
long brass gims hke those at Rhodes, which doubtless
belong to
the
period
when
this
On one was
occupied by the Genoese.
island
was
the inscrip-
tion,
AN
CAPITAN.
DRONICO DE
SPINOSA
NA
TVRAL DE RODI
MDLIII.
I also noticed in the castle the pedestal of a statue
to a
Roman
But no other
be met with there.
emperor.
trace of Greek
was to
"We went to see the Governor- General of the
Archipelago, Ishmael Pasha, a nephew of the famous
Ali Pasha, of Jannina, and found him in a beaiitiful
kiosk in the envnons of Scio, sm-rounded by orangetrees and fountains.
He is now making the romid
antiquities
of the islands, and begged
me
to report to
him any
TKAVELS AND DISCOYEEIES
21(3
wi'ong doings
^1
this
tour.
wliicli
might
fall
He makes
my observation
profession of a wish to
administer his pashahck well

is
under
but, unfortunately,
it
hardly possible for a Turkish governor to do more
than to wish to do his duty.
Between the wish and
execution his agents are sure to interpose so
its
honesty of pm-pose
difficulties that all
was mth him,
is
many
thwarted.
came two Gi'eek jiriniates

of Scio, with many genuflections and 7rgo<7xuv7jj.aTa.
We began talkmg about the island, and I asked the
two piimates why they did not make proper roads
and bridges in order to convey the produce of the
A^Tiile I
in
The two venerable gentlemen
interior to the ports.
said that they thought that the roads wliich
good enough
for their ancestors
were
were good enough
them whereupon the Pasha asked whether Adam

invented steam and the electric telegraph, a question Avhich puzzled them considerably, and which, I
thought, was rather a creditable remark for a Turk
for
to utter.
The town
of
of Scio
its architecture,
is
very Italian in the character
which has a sohdity very rare
in
the Levant. In the subiorbs, the fine houses built by

the old merchants
still
stand in roofless and window-
less desolation, just as the
Turks
left
them
after the
Greek revolution, when Scio was utterlv sacked.
Up
commerce was of great

the old capitulations made
between the Porte and English monarchs Smyrna
and Scio are mentioned together as the two principal
ports where English trade was carried on in Turkey.
to
that period
importance,
We
and
learn from a
its
in
MS.
in the
Cotton collection in the
Henry VIII. appointed a
Museum,"'^ that
British
217
THE LEVANT.
IN
John Baptist Giustiuiani his Consul in Scio

at the time when it was still held by the Genoese.
This ancient predecessor of M. Vedova seems to
have been somewhat wanting in zeal for the protection of English commerce, and His Majesty
certain
therefore
administers
enjoining
more
to
him a mild reprimand,
activity in the
performance of his
duties for the future.
At
Scio I parted with Mr. Finlay and, not hearing
of any antiquities in the villages, set
sail in
a Greek
boat bound for Patmos with a cargo of Sciote doici
and other " notions."
In
weather a cruise
fine
the Arclupelago in one of these small craft

pleasant.
fire
All the cooking
on the
shino'le
and a carpet-bag
At night the same
mth a shaggy capote for
and agreeable
the weather
curious
is fine.
way
is
very
lighting
shingle
a mattress
for a pillow.
It is at sea that the
genial
managed by
which serves for ballast at the
bottom of the boat.

served as our bed,
is
in
Greek appears
in his
most
aspect, provided always that
I noticed that the sailors
of calculating the
had a
hom% by measvmng
with then- hand the distance of the sun's disk from

the horizon.
then' notion,
daylight.
Every
finger's breadth, according to
represented a quai'ter of an hour of
I suspect this is the true explanation of
the phrase ui Alcasus,
" Let us drink, there
irlvco^=v,
is still
Za.xru'k'ji;
aftlpa,
an inch of daylight."
The crew was a very merry one they were all

what the Greeks call PaltJicma, or good fellows. As
;
we got
near Patmos,
they grew nervous about
218
TKAVELS AND DISCOVEMES
no part of the Ai'chipelago more
pirates, as there is
suspected than these unfrequented and landlocked

channels,
of harbours and lurking-places.
full
had
a sort of vague confidence in
my
thought that the
the
name English
sufficient to repel
any attack, but
Consul would be
felt at
majesty
of
flag,
little
the same time certain misgivings, as
it is
and
now
only two years since the Smyi^na brigands took the
Dutch Consul prisoner in his own garden, and made

him pay an immense ransom. However, all went
well with us
and after a great deal of becalming
;
and rowing,
in
which
I joined, to the great astonish-
ment of the sailors, we got to Patmos.

I had two objects in going to Patmos
first,
to see manuscripts in the monastery, as the collection has been a celebrated one
secondly, to get
hold of a certain Greek captain,

in this island after having
One of
crew was
his
detaining
at
Rhodes
hence, his capture

I
arrived at
peremptory
pelago,
captain,
an
is
till
who was
committed a barratry.
Ionian,
the
whom
captain
is
am
tried;
a matter of interest to me.
Patmos provided with a
letter
hiding
stern
and
from the Governor of the Archi-
ordering the
Patmiotes
to
give
up the
and warning them that the Pasha was
perfectly aware that
he was concealed somewhere
among them. Patmos, hke
all
the small islands in
this part of the Archipelago, is
governed by a Mudir
and Demarchia, or corporation of three or four of

the richest Greeks of the place, who, being the
most dishonest.
the island, the Mudu' is a
richest are said to be generally the
If there are
no Tm-ks in
219
IN THE LEVANT.
mere symbolic representation of Turkish authority ;

the Greeks rule.
Such is the case at Patmos,
which
is
My
was
an island
first
full
monks and
of
pirates.
step in landing in this den of thieves
upon the only representative of consular

authority in the place, an old Hellenic consular
agent, who had given information at Rhodes about
to call
The poor man was overjoyed
the barratry.
to see
me, and declared that he never ventui'ed to

out of
liis
stir
house for fear of being assassinated on
account of having denounced certain Patmiotes, a

statement the truth of which I had no means of
ascertaining,
though such
of these islands that

telling
him that
had a
On my
not improbable.
letter
from the Governor
begged me, instead of
calling
had proposed, to remain
in his
to the Demarchia, he
on the Mudir as
the condition of some
is
is
it
own house and summon
the Demarcliia into
sence there and hear the Pasha's
my
pre-
I thought,
letter.
Hotspur thought of Owen Glendower's spirits,

" but will they come ? "
However, I despatched
my cavass fiôm the port to the town, and sum-
as
moned them
sm-prise
sun.
the
in
they
unperious
style.
my
came through a broiling June
all
I presented the Pasha's letter
Mudir gave a
when he heard
Rather to
start,
it
and turned a
mandate
the
was read
pale
little
the Greeks j^reserved
that perfect self-possession wliich distinguishes this
race
when some
great
enormous capacity
finished, the
Mudir
occasion calls
for Ipng.
When
said never a
forth
their
the letter
word
was
but one of
the Primates, a smooth-tongued gentleman, at once
220
delivered an answer
With many
ready-made.
all
command
professions of desire to obey the
Pasha, he said that in this instance

sible to
of the
was impos-
it
put his orders in execution, because the
in qiiestion, not being at
man
Patmos, could not possibly
be sent, as the Pasha requested, to Rhodes.

this
was so plausibly and
taken quite aback, and
answer
letter,
it
as
logically
worded that
" There
said,
you think
All
j^roper
is
;
was
the Pasha's
he has been
man
know how
informed, aiid I have been informed, that the

is
here
you say he
deal with
to
you
if
is
We
not.
you are
shall
The
decei\'ing us."
Greeks, not the least disconcerted, began to overpower me with civihties. On my proposing to go
up to the toâi to see the monastery, they forth-
with offered mules, and invited
Knowing
Avhat
all
this
me to
meant,
dine with them.
broke away very
unceremoniously from their escort, and managed

to get
up the steep ascent
minutes before them.

people
who
to the
you never
of you for a second during the day, for
body
lose sight
feai'
any-
else should get the opportunity of putting in
My manoemTe
an observation.
hill
five
In a case of this kind, the
to mislead
-^dsh
town about
of Avalking up the
alone enabled the Mudir to get hold of Bili-
a moment, when he whispered to him in

Tiu'kish, " The man is here, but I did not dare
otti for
say so before the Demarchia."
When
I got
up
to the town, I called
bishop of Rhodes,
and found him
who
is
now
in a curious old
two or three faded pictures
on the Ai'ch-
staying at Patmos,
room, where were
in the school of
Cana-
22l
IN THE LEVANT.
I
letto.
inquired liow tliey came there, and was
had once been a great trade between

Venice and Patmos. The Archbishop received me
told that there
open arms, and
with
eloge, in classical
my
lanthropy,
pronounced a magnificent
well-rounded phrases, on
knowledge of ancient Greek,
my
my
phi-
love
and a variety of other merits, till,

overcome by his honeyed words, I l)egan to
for archeology,
at last
say to myself,
" ^Vliat a nice old gentleman this
archbishop
after
as
is
all,
bad as Mr. Kerr described him
my
he
perhaps,
is
not quite
to be.
Perhaps
predecessor was somewhat too severe
told
him
to
he and
that
his face
all
when he
the other
bishops were a disgrace to the Greek Clmrch
Alas for
my
prepossession in
venerable hierarch.
was
his favour of this
did not then know,
moment
of
my
hiding in the Archbishop's house.
When
Patmos, I -wTote to the Governor-
I left
General, reporting
and
what
told shortly afterwards at Calymnos, that the
captain I was in quest of was at the

visit
it
manners of these people."
requires to study the
all
telling him, at the
that I
had seen and heard,
same
time, that the people
Patmos set his authority at defiance, and that I

hoped and expected that he woidd put it to rights.
of
If he
is
really in
he
earnest,
a ship of war to bring aAvay
Rhodes, and
will
concealed captain
are rich, there
will
all
tlie
forthwith send
Demarchia to
keep them prisoners there

is
is still
found
till
the
but as the Patmiotes
a chance for them.
buy the captain
of the ship of war,
back to Rhodes,
Avith
They can
who will then go

some lame story explaining why
222
lie
could not execute
tlie
Pasha's orders
have a large command of money, they

protection of some great
man
or, if tliey
will
buy the
at Constantinople,
and
thus thwart the Pasha in his endeavours to bring
them
to justice.
I have given this little anecdote

letter
than perhaps
it
deserves, in
maladministration in Turkey
fined to Turkish officials.
more space in my
order to show that
not exclusively con-
is
In those islands of the
Turkish Archipelago where the Greeks are allowed

to administer their
own
their municipal rights
they too often abuse
affairs,
by protecting brigands,
and every description of rogue.

is
not so
who
is
much
In such islands
it
the Pasha but the Greek Primate
looked on by the people as their oppressor.
Iniquity,
incorporated in the form of a Mejlis or
Demarchia,
whole
pirates,
is
guilt
a many-headed monster
of
formerly, the
the administration rested on the
Turkish governor, and the
evil
attempt to punish crime,
that the delinquent
was removable whenever the Sultan thought proper to remove his head
fi'om his shoulders. Now, the Greek primates in those
islands where the Greek population predominates set
the mandates of the Pasha at defiance, unless he backs
these mandates by measures not quite reconcilable
The only certain result of an
with the Tanzimat.
is
compelled to spend a large

tion fi'om justice.
sum
is
thus
in purchasing jDrotec-
Thus, probably, when the Demar-
chia of Patmos, the Director of the Quarantine there,
and the Ai'chbishop of Rhodes, have sent

"
little
in their
accounts," the captain will have to disgorge
nearly the whole of his booty acquu-ed through the

liarratry.
223
IN THE LEVANT.
was
Patmos.
mucli
M.
disappointed
witli
the
Gruerin, the autlior of the
MSS.
at
memoir on
Rhodes already cited, has recently -\asited the monasI read

tery, and made a catalogue of the library.
through this list and called for all the classical MSS.,
four, of
no great antiquity and
I found a
Greek lexicon by some
and was shown only
bad condition.
in
unknown Byzantine
In the
scholar.^**
fly-leaf
was
a cm'ious note, stating that the people of Gyrene

dedicated a statue of their king, Battus, holding in
hand the silphuim, a plant which supplied the

staple of their commerce, and which is represented
his
on the coins of Gyrene.

This note being evidently an extract from some
ancient author, I was at
unedited ;
but find that
first in
it is
the Plutus of Ainstophanes,

I also noticed a
MS.
hopes that
it
was
given in the Scholiast to

1.
925.
of Sophocles, on thin parch-
ment, containing only the Ajax and Electra, with

occasional interlinear glosses in red ink
a Diodorus
Siculus, on parchment, of the 15th century, wanting
beginning and end
and a Libanius, on paper, of
the 15th centmy, wanting beginning, and in bad

condition.
The
library
is
rich in Biblical
and
Patristic
MSS.,
many of which have fine illuminations. Among these

may be specially mentioned the Book of Job, probably of the 7th or Sth century, written in imcial
some splendidly-illuminated copies of the

and a
Gospels fi'om the lOtli to the 12th century
copy of Origen on the Pentateuch and Prophets, of
characters
the 9th centmy.
There
is
here also a fine collection of
224
bulls granted
by Byzantine emperors, ranging from
tlie
end of the 11th century to the taking of Con-
stantinople,
A.D. 1453, which, were shown to Ross,
but
did not
Avhicli I
That quaint old
see.'"
traveller Sandys, describing the
monks
at Patmos in the year 1610, stigmatizes them

"
ignorant of letters, studious for their bellies, and
as
ignominiously lazy, unless some few that give themselves to navigation,

I
pilots."^""
and become
good
cannot say that the lapse of more than
two centuries has added much to
their erudition,
may have somewhat abated their love of

now imknown in Patmos. They read
most crabbed abbreviations in the MSS. with
though
good
the
indifferent
it
cheer,
facility,
morO
learning; there
than this I cannot say for their
was not one of them that had ever
dis-
two plays.
The monastery of Patmos is an ecclesiastical fortress, built at a period when the monks dreaded pupates
covered that their Sophocles contains only
instead of protecting them.
It is consequently very
strong, towering far above the town,
the landlocked harbours below
and overlooking
the scenery
is
very
wild and has a treeless and desolate beaiity, unlike

that of any other Grreek island which I have seen.
The monastery
is
built in a succession of terraces
with stone roofs, and
is
raised to a great height
the
summit of the battlements commands an extensive

In tliis panorama we saw, on the mainland, a
view.
rocky range of mountains above Scala
round the horizon seaward
was a
jSTova.
succession
islands,
" Spread far amiil the melauclioly maiii."
All
of
IN THK LEVANT.
distinguished
Samos,
225
Fourmi,
Mykonos, Tenos (hardly
Nicaria,
Naxos,
Levitha, Stanipalia,
\'isible),
Cos, CaljTnnos, Leros, Lepso.
Half-way down the

Apocalypse,
where
hill
is
John
8t.
which a church has been
ments.
In one of these
is
according to the local

split it
is
a natural cavern,
built
two compart-
a rent in the rock, where,

the
tradition,
while St. John was praying.
which he heard in
from
supjDosed to have
is
Here
Avritten the Revelations.
in
the Monastery of the
this rent.
his vision is said to
was
also
earthquake
The voice
have issued
shown the hole
rock whence he hung during his prayer.

east
in the
At the
end was a rude picture representing the scene
described at the beginning of the Revelations, with
the printed text of the
first
chapter pasted at the
side to explain the picture.
The monastery of Patmos was founded in the

11th century by a holy man named Clu-istodulos,
from Nicaea, in Bithynia.
The golden
bull
of the
nenus, by which the island

Christodulos,
is
still
Emperor Alexius Comof Patmos is granted to
preserved
the monastery,
in
and bears date A.D. 1080.

It
would appear
fi'om the legend of the samt, that
he founded his monastery on the
site
of a temple
of Artemis, whose statue he took care to destroy on

his
arrival.
From an
interesting
but mutilated
inscription at Patmos, published by Ross,
that this deity
In the original
we
learn
was the Scythian or Tamnc Artemis.

bull, granted by Alexius Comnenus,
no women were allowed
to reside
on the island
but
226
it
was found necessary
these hard conditions.

trary, the
in
a short time to relax
At
^"^
present, on the con-
male population being
monks
either
all
or seafaring men, the destitution of the ladies
is
nearly as great as that of the wives of the Greek
The
warriors during the Trojan war.

barren,
women
and
nomîshes
nothing but
island
is
goats.
very
The
maintain themselves by knitting stockings.
Their costume
is
very curious
and they seem to
be a different race from the other islanders ui the
They wear very quaint high head-
Sporades.
dresses.
From Patmos we went
to Calymnos, the ancient
Caljrmna, a barren rocky island, the inhabitants of
maintain themselves principally by sponge-
wliicli
Here
diving.
coins,
I jjurchased a quantity of small silver
which seem to have been struck at Miletus, but
have been attributed to Hekatomnos, Prince of Oaria,
because
the
specimens.
letters
was
EKA
appear
on the larger
told that they
were found at
a place called GherelH,
three
hours to the north
of Budrum.""
The
Icindly,
primates of
and showed
antiquities
We
site
On
known
Calymnos
me
all
received
me
very
the inscriptions and other
to them.
visited the church of Christos,
built
on the
and with the ruins of the Temple of Apollo.

the shore I was
shown a
stele
with a decree
IN TEE LEViVNT.
Calymna
of the people of
227
honour of the people
in
This interesting document was
of lassos, in Caria.
destined to be built into a church
now
erecting.^^
In a garden called Blyko, near the harbour, were

a
number of columns and the angle of a

dug up. On three sides of this
recently
cornice,
cornice
were inscribed grants of freedom to certain slaves
by their masters. These documents were made out
in
name of the Steplianeflioros, a local magistrate. ^"^

Our caiqiie went before the wind fiôm Calymnos
The distance I
to Cos in two hom'S and a half.
the
was
told
good
very
for
was twenty-five miles, and the pace verj^

The scenery all round us was
a caique.
On
picturesque.
every
mountain-Hnes which seemed
were jagged
side
to
have been con-
vulsed into fantastic forms by some primeval force.
Behind us were some small islands near Leros, on

our right Cos, on our
left
Myndos [Gumischlu], and
a stern headland near
straight ahead the high
mountain-ridge which
terminates
This wild scenery
more impressive when seen
far
is
in
Cape
Crio.
from a caique than from the deck of a steamer.

"Wlien
that
we got
to Cos, the
our anchor would not

the
driven right across
wind blew so strong

hold,
and we were
bows of a
and nearly impaled on her bowsprit.

the anchorage
is
in
an open road.
larger vessel,
At
present,
In antiqi;ity
was here a snug little harbour, which has

been gradually filled up by sheer neglect, as is
there
the case with
many
other ports in the Ai"chipelago.
I found here a very intelligent
named Demetri
Platanista,
(i
Creek merchant,
who had a
small coUec-
228
and fragments ofsculptui'e
tion of inscriptions
One of these
liouse.
inscriptions
is
a decree of the
people of Cos in reference to arbitrators
had invited
in his
from some neighbouring
whom
they
city to decide
matters in litigation, according to a frequent practice
among
the ancient republics.
The name
of one of
the Egyptian Ptolemies appears in this inscription,
probably that of Philadelphus,
part of a
Among
at
of contributors to some public loan.
list
the fragments of sculpture was the light
tliigh of a
statuette of Perseus, against
head of Medusa
right hand.
was
who was born
Another fragment of an inscription contains
Cos.
rests,
This
is
which the
grasped by the hair in his

style.
There
Venus tying her
sandal,
in a very
also the torso of a
good
sunilar to that in the British Museum.^"'

I piu-chased at
Cos a roimd buckler of marble
14 inches in diameter, with a hole behind, by which

has been fastened by an iron pin, probably to
the wall of a temple. It is inscribed " Hegesikrates,
it
the son of Hegesiki-ates, (dedicates this) to the gods
who
led the army."
statuette of
in a
good
I also purchased the torso of a
an hermaphrodite, of Parian marble, and
style.
But my great
prize
coin of Termera, in Caria, the only one
was a
known
silver
of this
town.
On
one side
the letters
is
a kneeling figure of Herakles, ^-ith
T Y M N O. On
the reverse, the legend
TERM EP IKON
round a
ratlier
Termera was a
archaic.
opposite to Cos
229
THE LEVANT.
IN
The
lion's head.
doubt that
little
the isolated rock of Cliifoot Kalessy represents
its
Herodotus mentions a certain Histiaios, tyrant
site.
who was
of Termera,
the son of Tymnos.
TYMNO
probable that the letters
name of
the
is
of Caria
foi'tress
and there can be
style
It is
on the coin are
a second Tymnos, son of this Histiaios.
Termera was
by the Leleges,
originally occupied
who thence made piratical incursions into the island

of Cos."^
The coin which I was so fortunate as to
was found by a Calymniote diver on the
coast opposite to Cos, and passed fi'om his hands
acquire,
into
those
of an
obliging to part with
it
to
me
said.
of Burinna,
%dsited the celebrated fountain
distant an hour
so
for a very reasonable
sum, " to please his Consul," as he
We
who was
merchant,
Ionian
An
and a half west of Cos.
ancient
aqueduct descends from this som'ce to the town.
The fountain
rock.
ancient name, Tholos,

is
is
stream fiôm a
a copious
issues in
A circular vaulted
chamber,
built over
still
squared blocks, without mortar.

tian, like that of the
laid in
by
its
This chamber
it.
9 feet 4 inches in diameter, and
called
is
The
built of large
vault
is
Egyp-
Treasury at Mycenge, the stones
hoinzontal courses,
advancing one beyond
the other, and having their inner faces curved.
It
has a circular aperture at the top to admit light,
which has been restored with mortar.

largest of the blocks
by
was
One
in length 3 feet
of the
4 inches
1 foot 6 inches.
Over the aperture of the
tJiulo:^,
outside,
is
a large
230
square stone pierced in
was anciently
thie
centre.
trap-door
fitted to tliis stone, as is seen
holes for the hinges,
made on two
opposite
by the
sides.^'"'
The tholos communicates "with the aqueduct thi'ough

a doorway 6 feet high, formed by an Egyptian vault
of advancing
stones,
between which
is
single
wedge-shaped stone.
The
gallery runs on 17 feet to a second doorway,
Through
similar to the &st.
roof
this first leng-th the
From
similar to that of the doorways.
is
the
second doorway the passage takes a bend, and runs

for
15 feet 5 inches wdth the same structure of roof;
the walls
From
48
are
the distance of 15 feet 5 inches onwards for
feet,
the gallery
is
with a regular arch.
28
but restored with mortar.
ancient,
feet,
the roof
is
built of smaller blocks,
From
and
this point to the end
formed by a single horizontal
stone.
The
communicates wath the open
tholos
half-way up
its
air
about
height by a second gallery, roofed
with single blocks, wliich probably served for ventilation.
This foimtain seems to be the one men-
tioned by Theocritus, which, according to a legend,
was discovered by Chalcon, king of Cos.^* The

tholos reminded me of the Tiillianum near the Capitol
at Rome,'""
and from the
style of the
masomy
is
probably of high antiquity.

I arrived in this island just in time to lay hands
on an Ionian
thief,
immediately after he had been
caught in a shop, with a
false
key in one hand and a
Inmdle of goods in the other.
my
consular district, I exercised
Cos being within
summary
jm'isdic-
IN THE LEVANT.
tion
231
on this offender, and having convicted him on
the evidence of two credible ^natnesses, a rare felicity
put him into
in a
Turkish
him
off prisoner to
trial,
Ehodes.
my caique,
The Caimacam
an old Janissary, was very anxious

him, and held
me
and carried
of Cos,
to intercede for
a long discourse on the
why
frailty of
Turk took
such an interest in the case, as the prisoner was too
poor to buy him, and was told that he was the bitter
humanity generally.
I inquired
the
enemy of the prosecutor

The part of the Ai'chipelago
fi'om
which
just returned has as yet been but
little
explored.
lies off
have
It
the gTeat high road of steamers and tomîsts
The manners of the people have

affected by Em'opean influence than in
to Constantinople.
been far
less
islands like Mytilene, or Scio, which have maintained
a more constant intercourse with Smyrna.
same
For the
Sporades appear to promise a very
I'eason the
productive field for archgeological research.
On my
return to Ehodes, I foimd everybody
of warlike ideas.
this will
Turkey.
To-morrow's post may bring us
There
decisive news.
fall
is
a general presentiment that
be a year pregnant with mighty events for
The Tm-ks show great
wardly; but we
expectancy
the
live in
resolution
out-
an atmosphere of fear and
word Russia
heart and on every European's
is
in every
lips.
Tm'k's
232
TRAVELS AXD DISCOVEPxlKS
XVII.
Rhodes, August
I
HAVE just returned from a
Blunt across the centre of

lialting-place
little
excursion -with
island.
tlie
1853.
5,
was Aphandu, on the road
Our
first
to Lindos,
Here I purchased
four hours distant fi'om Ehodes.
a small slab, with a figm-e on horseback in low
relief.
This appears to have been a sepulchral monument.
The
sculptm'e
is
coarse
the material, the stone of
the country.
After riding three hours further,
we got
where we tm-ned inland to the S.W.,

After about an hour
of Alcierma.
to ]\Iallona,
in the du'ection
we ascended
fi-om
the plain into a pine forest, which extends for three

days' journey
into
the
centre
of the island
arrived at Alaerraa in four hours.
and somewhat barbarous
village,
This
is
we
a small
where we could
get nothuig to eat but venison di-ied in the sun in

strips or jerked.
Greeks
The
fallow deer,
called
by the
the corruption of sTâîov, ranges wild
Xa<:^,
through the pine forests of Rhodes, and many stags

are killed in this district.
The inhabitants maintain
themselves by cultivating corn.
From Alaerma we went
to Apollona, distant four
and a half hours. The greater part of the road lay

through a pine forest. At the distance of an hour
from Alaerma
in
which
is
an old church called Agia Marina,
found a large cube of marble from an
From
Hellenic building.
may
be inferred that
An
distance.
233
THE LEVANT.
IN
it
the size of this Ijlock,
it
was not brought from a
hour further
is
another old church,
Agios Georgios.
ApoUona
is
pleasantly situated in a valley, with
abundance of water and

castle, built
It
fruit-trees.
has an old
by the Knights.
In the churchyard
is
a Greek inscription on a
sepidchral cippus, and in the church I noticed several
squared blocks of Hellenic masonry.

I
purchased
five
Rhodian
silver
In this village
coins,
with the
radiated head of the Sun, one of which, for beauty
and preservation,
the British
superior to any of this type in
is
Museum.
While
at
Apollona I explored
the adjacent villages of Platania and Arkiboli, both

picturesquely
among
situated
the
mountains.
found no antiquities in either of them.
We
then went to Fundokli, distant one hour to
the N.B. of Apollona.

ridge,
Our road crossed
a mountahi-
on descending which the views en route were
exceedingly picturesque, stretching over ra^^nes and
broken ground to the sea opposite Syme.
Fundokli
has a beautiful foimtain embosomed in plane-trees,
and a ruined Byzantine monastery. In this part of the

forest the pine timber is larger than that in the first
part of our route.
At
the distance of a quarter of
an hour fiôm Fundokli
is
Demelia, where I found
the ruins of a small castle, and an escutcheon of

the Knights over the church
door, but
no
anti-
quities.
From
we went to Salakko,
Mount Elias, through
Demeliii
at the foot of
a pretty village
Avhich a fresh
234
mountain brook runs even in the
lieat
of smnmer.
Here may be seen, in the same landscape, the

orange-tree and palm-tree above the village, and
higher up the mountains the stone-pine. There is a
small castle of the Knights here, with the arms of
Bmeri d'Amboise, quarterly with those of the Order.

The mountain Agios Elias is 2,620 feet in height
On
according to the chart.

little
its
north-east side
is
chapel, dedicated to the saint, containing no
commanding a picturesque view,

with Syme in the distance. The ground at the base of
the mountain on this side is fmTowed and channelled
ancient remains, but
in every direction
by Avater-courses and landshps.
I Avas sm'prised to find this lonely chapel full of
mural paintings; and on inquu-ing by whom they were
John of Syme. At the

present day jioor architects and painters educated in
Greek monasteries pass from island to island for the
executed, was told by one
purpose of constructing or beautifying the churches.
Such
itinerant artists
remind one of the Freemasons
of Europe in the Middle Ages.
Half an hour
Embona,
is
fi'om
Salakko,
j^lace called
on the
road
Kappi, where the
to
culti-
vated arable land terminates at the foot of Mount

Elias.
Here
rock, 8 feet
is
a sarcophagus
by 4
feet
hewn out
6 inches,
of the native
the sides 1 foot
3 inches, the ends 7 inches in thickness.
At
the two
ends the sarcophagus stands on steps cut out of the

native rock.
At a
It has
been broken open at the ends.
distance of an hour
on the same road,
is
and a half ft'om Salakko,
a place called Specs.
Here
is
a fountain with some large square blocks, evidently
IN
THR
Close by are the remains
from an Hellenic building.
of a Greek aqueduct.
Agia Eirene,
fields are
ruined church here, called
The
with squared blocks.
built
is
235
I,EVANT.
strewn with fragments of pottery.
From Salakko we turned homeward

on the northern
On
coast.
Kalavarda
to
the road to this place I
noticed an old tower, built by the Knights, by the
This place
side of a water-mill.
It is distant half
is
called Myrtona.
A little
an hour from Kalavarda.
we passed on
before arriving at this village
the
left
an old ruined chiu-ch containing slabs of Hellenic

mai'ble,
but no inscriptions.
At Kalavarda I noticed the process by which

is
converted into flocks.
bow
This
(roâpi,) a piece of reed,
instrument
a reel
like
is
cotton
done with a large
rirga,
and a wooden
The process
(AayoGoi).
is
called To^susiv.
The cotton
placed on the reed and laid hori-
is
zontally at right angles to the bow, the string of
which
is
then
with
struck
the
and the
Xayouoj,
particles of cotton detached
by the vibrations of the
drawn together
so as to form a loose
string are
rope, which
is
wound
off
In this village I was

a number of Greek
houses.
These
Among them
on the
much
fictile
vases
by finding
interested
vases in the
were
were several
distaff.
of
peasants'
various
styles.
platters, 'plnalês, of a
very early period, with geometrical patterns painted

in
brown on a
pale ground.
This kind of ware has been foimd
in the
tombs of
Athens, Melos, and other parts of Greece, and
thought to be of very remote antiquity
is
the more so
236
TBAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES
as the sites of Mycente
found at Kalavarda several jugs, amplwra,
I also
and
aud Tiryns are strewn vnth. it."
oinoclioce,
on
painted black figures
"wliich "were
on a red ground, or red figures on a black ground.
None
of these designs were remarkable for beauty of
drawing or excellence of
fabric,
but mostly specimens
The
of the later period of the art.

rather tliick and heavy.
me some
was
The peasants
The
village.
also
On
small terra- cotta figures.
showed
inquiry I
were found in tombs
told that all these objects
near the
clay seemed
inhabitants, fearing probably
interference on the part of the Turkish authorities,
declined to show the site where these tombs were
found
but I was taken by
my
muleteer Panga to a
place on the shore called Agios Minas, distant three-
quarters of an hour fi'om Kalavarda.
Here
is
a mediasval tower, at the foot of which
are the remains of a wall built with cement, which
runs out into the
sea.
On
the shore here I found
three handles of Greek unpainted
dlotcc,
names are stamped.

Between this spot and Kalavarda, the
on which
magistrates'
fields
along
the shore are strewn with fragments of pottery, and
In one spot
in several places are traces of tombs.

I
found the fragments of a Rhodian
had apparently been displaced

torrent rushing
this
diota
name.
was
down from
the
diota,
tomb by
The handle
fi'om a
hill.
also inscribed with
which
a
of
magistrate's
This ground would probably repay exca-
vation.
By
the skilful mediation of Panga, I succeeded in
purchasing the vases I had seen at Kalavarda, and
237
IN THE LEVANT.
on arriving
liome,
vi-aj
Fanes,
at
I
objects found
found
next village on
the
another
in tombs.
collection
little
Among
my
of
these were two
shallow two-handled cups, of the best
period
of
one of which was inscribed with the

words x"P- '*'^' '^''-' " Rejoice and drink " the
fictile
art,
other had black figures on a red ground.
I also
obtained a small bottle of variegated glass, and some

curious leaden glands such as were used by slingers,
and which were each inscribed with a name. They

form a curious illustration of the well-known story
of the slinger
words
who
is
said to have
" to Philip's right eye "
inscribed
the
on a missile which
was afterwards accurately delivered to its address.

On my enquiring where these objects were found,
was taken by a peasant to a place a short distance
fi'om Fanes, where I saw a large extent of gi-ound
I
recently cleared from the forest, strewn with frag-
ments of painted vases and terra-cotta figmês over

These remains had evian extent of several acres.
The vases
dently been thrown up by the plough.

I
had pm'chased
my
at
guide, in a built
Fanes were found, according to
tomb on
I succeeded
this site.
in purchasing this second collection of antiquities for

a small
sum, and packing them on a mule in
large panniers, started very early in

for
the
tAvo
morning
Rhodes, very well pleased with the acquisition
which
had made, and looking forward to further
and more important discoveries on the
sites
I had thus accidentally stumbled on.
My
which
golden
visions
were suddenly arrested,
woman
with the basket of eggs, by a crashing sound
like those of the old
238
The mule which
behind.
carried the ^lanniers
fallen in the
dry bed of a torrent
to find that
my
treasures
had
but I was happy
had been
so well packed
was broken.
From Kalavarda homewards, the landscape along
the shore resumes the same verdant and kixm-iant
character as in the environs of Rhodes. At Theologos,
that nothing
now pronounced
Tholoos, I piu'chased a fi'agment of
an inscription from the temple of Apollo Erethimios,

the
of which Ross identified by excavation here.
site
The spot which he explored

distance
village.
list
the plain, at the
is in
of about eight minutes'
In the church here
is
walk from the
an inscription giving a
of the priests of Apollo Erethimios, and in
fi'ont
of the church a square block of blue marble inscribed
with a similar
list.
The name Erethimios
is
only
another form of Erysibios, "the averter of mildew,"
corresponding with the Latin deity Robigus."^
At
Villa
Nova we made a
some Hellenic remains on
the
shore
below the
Lying here on the sand were great quan-
town.
tities
and I examined
halt,
of the inscribed handles of Rhodian
similar to those found
andria,
by Mr. Stoddart
and published by him
at
diotce,
Alex-
in the Transactions of
the Royal Society of Literatmê.^'^
The
traces of
Hellenic remauas extended for some hundred yards
along the shore.
Over the door of a church recently
built in this village part of a sepulchral relief is let
into the wall.
seated.
figm-e,
figure
This represents a draped middle-aged

In front stands a youthfiil male
behind, another figure.
these figures remain.
Below
is
The
legs only of
an enriched moulding.
239
IN THE LEVAKT.
The
sculpture seems of the
executed in white marble.
Roman
It
and
period,
was found
is
in a field
near the church.^^^
Between
Villa
Nova and Trianda
Kremasto, where there
is
is
the
\'illao-e
a castle built
of
by the
Knights with the arms of the Grand Master Fabrizio
Here is a fine new church with a spacious

courtyard, and small rooms all round it for the recepdel Carretto.
tion of visitors at the gi'eat feast or Panegyris, as at
Zambika.
church
is
The
(See ante, p. 183.)

richly decorated in the
the Greeks are so fond of in their
At the
interior of the
gaudy
style
which
modern churches.
distance of about five minutes from Kremasto,
on the road to Rhodes, I noticed on the
left
several
fragments of columns of a late period, which probably
mark
As
the site of an ancient church.

far as I
have yet seen, Rhodes
The
in form.
clearings
pine forests are
and thinnings
is
very inferior
The mountains
in scenery to Mytilene.
much
are lumpish
disfigured
by
the peasants burn patches
here and there, and sow corn.
The
cultivation in
the more mountainous and central parts of the island

is
very rude, and the population scanty, but comfortably
Here and there the barrelieved by a little verdure,
lodged, clothed, and fed.
renness of the district
is
where abundance of water has produced a luxuriant

growth of
fig
and other
frviit-trees.
During
this
journey
we saw
ridges
they ran on before us, and would not get up
great numbers of red-legged part-
without being actually fired
into.
saw sometimes
The
them on the wing, but
packs of about sixty birds get up in a cloud.

peasants here never
fire at
2J<0
shoot tliem as Gordon
Gumming
did his hons,
-^vhile
they are drinking at a brook.
XYIII.
Rhodes, August
24, 18o3.
SHOUT time ago an Ionian at Cos having been
maltreated by some sailors of a Turkish brig

war, apphed to
me
aggravated one
The
for redress.
for
one of the
assault
officers in
of the brig, on being appealed
to, told
of
was an
command
the Ionian
had better be quiet, or that on some future

occasion the sailors might take his life. I sent a statement of the case to the Cairaacam of Cos, to which
that he
In the mean time H.M.S. " Samp-
I got
no answer.
son,"
commanded by
CajDtain
Lewis Jones, happened
very conveniently to look in at Rhodes on her
way
and I was thus enabled to pay a
visit
up from
to
Syria,
Great was the surprise and
Cos unannounced.
dismay of the Turkish
officials at
apparition in an English
Cos
war steamer,
my
sudden
for the
Caima-
at
cam had purposely delayed answering my complaint
till
the
Turkish
accused had sailed for
brig whose
Samos
getting under Aveigh at the very
came
sailors
were
and she was actually
moment when we
in.
The
was examined before the

Mejlis in the presence of Captain Jones and
myself.
My client's evidence was somewhat slender,
case of the Ionian
T\
and
Turkish
tlie
acquitted had
THE LEVANT.
would have probably been
officer
not been for the stupid manner iu
it
which he contradicted
dexterity
which
with
241
his
own
these
statements.
The
contradictions
were
Bhmt, acting as a dragoman, greatly

amused Captain Jones, who, up to a certain point in
ehcited by
the
trial,
Turkish
had had a professional S}Tnpathy

officer,
the
more
so as the case
was
for the
by
tried
civilians.
We
exacted ample satisfaction.
though with many "^Ty faces
Pistol ate his
Icelc,
and the Oaimacam,
was over, paid us a visit on board the

" Sampson," gazing with a stupid terror and feigned
after all
admmatiou
at the
massive 68-pounders on the deck,
one of which was quite enough to annihilate his
tumbledown whitewashed
fortress.
" Tell the captain," said he,
when he took
leave, " that I have gained this day a real
fin end.
his
May
our friendship be as firm a union as that of the nail

with the flesh " holding up a very ugly thumb as an
;
illustration of this oriental
metaphor.
After redressing the ^^^'ougs of the Ionian, to the

great satisfaction of the Christian population, I took
leave of
who
my kind
left
and hospitable
host, Captain Jones,
with the " Sampson " to rejoin the
Besika Bay.
We then made a little
in Cos, riding
torn'
of four days
through the island fi'om east to west
along the north shore opposite Calymnos.

traversed throughout
mountains,
Nisyros.
also
fleet at
is
whole length by a chain of
its
interrupted
Cos
only in the part opposite
This chain, the ancient Oromedon, called
by Pliny Prion, runs so near the southern

R
242
sliore as to leave
on
tlie norfcliern
able space of plain in
land
devoted to
is
from
-wliicli
tlie
some
coast a consider-
places.
Some
of this
cnltivation of tte small vine
made, whicli Cos exports
raisins are
in
considerable quantities, but not of very fine quality.
There
also a
is
good deal of rich arable land not half
cultivated, but capable of
The
grain.
island
is
producing large crops of
very
much
depopulated, and
has only four villages besides the principal town.
The
day we rode as
first
three hours fi'om the
far as
Pyh, distant about
town of Cos.
After passing
through the gardens in the environs, we traversed a
narrow
barren
strip of plain lying at the foot of the
central range of mountains.
At
with vineyards.
This plain
is
planted
a ruined church, called Agios
Pantalemos, distant about an hour and a half from
On
the town, I copied two sepulchral inscriptions.
our
left,
we passed
the village of Asphendu, which
under the mountain-range, and on our right
lies
some salt-works on the
sea-shore,
which here, as
elsewhere in Tiu-key, are a great cause of malaria.
At
Pyli
is
a very interesting Greek tomb, consisting
at present of a
long,
and covered over with a horizontal
Its height
six
chamber rather more than 18
is
pears to have been
thecce,
closed
each
of which
by a door,
One
tomb
is
of the blocks in the roof
Over the tomb
is
walls of which a
ap-
as a piece
of u'on has been inserted in the architrave.
stone of which this
vault.
In each side are
9 feet 8 inches.
oblong recesses or
feet
The
built is a travertine.
is
nearly 8 feet long.
little
church called Stavro, in the
number
of fi'agments of Ionic archi-
24iQ
IN THE LEVANT.
Among
tecture of a good period are inserted.

are
two
these
and ahout
pieces of cornice, each 6 feet long
It is evident that these architectural
6 inches deep.
remains originally belonged to the external facade of
In this church
the tomb.
which
tion"*
tells
us that this
rates a certam Charmylos,
temenos round
it,
dedicated
(olxla),
is
^vith
an interesting inscrip-
monument commemo-
and makes mention of a
gardens and small temples
to the hero
Charmylos and the
twelve gods.
According to Ross,
this
tomb
is
name had been handed down by
tradition from the
time of the ancients, or whether
discovery of the inscription in
name Charmylos occurs

This monument is
Cos.
the
class
of
in
had not been
it
by the
The
the church.
suggested at some recent
rather
period
another inscription at
a very interesting example
architectural
tombs Avhich were
erected in the Macedonian period.

as a sheep-pen.
At
Pyli
nearly inaccessible rock.
met a hare
in so very
fearing he would trip
him
to let
called Vtc,
I could not, however, learn whether this
Xap,auA<.
of
still
pass.
is
It serves
a castle placed on a
I tried to scale
narrow and steep a
me
up, I
Below the
it,
place, that
castle
is
the village of
now
houses
still
standing in roofless desolation.
modern
villao-e is
machia.
rich,
utterly deserted, the walls of the
scattered about.
From
Pyli
we went
but only partially cultivated.
grown
here.
The
I found but few
The countiy between these two
principally
and
drew up respectfully
Palaio Pyli,
inscriptions here.
now
to
Anti-
villages is
Indian corn
is
TKAVELS AXn DISCOVEKIKS
2-i4
Antimacliia
Here,
another small and scattered village.
is
church called Proskynema, I found an
in a
commemorated
inscription behind the altar, which
the erection of a statue to a gymnasiarch, Aurelius

Aristaichnos
lished
another inscription found here, pub-
by Ross, records a decree of a
who
ternity,
celebrated the rites of Zeus Hyetios,
" the rain-bringing Jupiter,"^'' a deity
who must have
been held in peculiar esteem in this

its
religious fra-
We
extreme dryness.
Herakles was
Antimacliia,
district,
from
learn from Plutarch that
worshipped
with
peculiar
in accordance with a local
rites
myth, by
which he was supposed to have landed here on

return from Troy
in the
and
is
made
and of a piece of land (temenos)
endowment
his
in a curious inscription found
town of Cos, mention
for the
at
of this worship,
set apart
of his priests,
by bequest
whose dignity was
hereditary in a particular family.""
In the vestibule of the church of Panagia, I found

a sepulchral cippus scidptured in
hanging from
is
heads.
One
this
column.
with festoons
of the bulls' heads
placed between a gryphon on the
on the right
In
bulls'
relief,
left
and a
lion
each with his right forepaw raised.
vestibule
is
also
the capital of an Ionic
In the village I purchased a small Greek
vase Avith ornaments painted in crimson, of a creamcoloured ground, but without incised lines, in a very
archaic
style.'"
This must have been found in a
tomb, but I could not get the peasants to indicate

the spot.
At about an
hour's distance from Antimachia,
is
place on the south-eastern shore, where Ross places
245
IN THE LEVANT.
Halasarna.
Jêar this site
a village caUed Carda-
is
myla, in the cliurch of -which, called Agia AnargjTC,

is
an inscription dedicated by a priest of Apollo.
could not hear of any village called Apostrophe, as
marked in Ross's map.

Near Antimachia is the
cliurch of Christos
Mos-
copianos, in a field close by -which are a quantity of
blocks of marble, and fragments of columns, evi-
some temple, and others
dently from
church
tlie
in the
of
-n-all
itself.
From Antimachia we went
to Kephalas.
Bet-ween
these t-wo points the great mountain-ridge of Cos

is
interrupted, as
if
by some natural convulsion.
Just opposite
this
seems as
had been plucked up by the
if it
isthmus
Nisyi'os,
lies
and flung out of the mountain-chain
-ivhich
roots,
into the sea,
formation so completely corresponds -with the
its
general
character
Hence the
ancients, -who never lost an opportunity
turning
of
of the mountain-ridge of Cos.
physical
or rather sang, that NisjTOS
said,
from Cos by Neptune.

-was
phenomenon
represented uphea-dng the
this
arms to thro-w
-nâs
-ndiole
-^'hich
myth,
broken
Seeing the island
reminded of a Greek vase on
in his
into
Poseidon
is
island of Kis}Tos
at the giant Polybotes.
design, on the mass of rock
ofl'
itself, I
-n-hich
In
represents
the uplifted island, a goat, a serpent, a shell, and
other marine emblems

respectively
of
the
are
delineated, as symbols
mountain, lowlands,
and the
coast.^^^
The isthmus
is
Ijetween Antimachia and Kephalas
exceedingly barren, with hardly any vegetation
246
except the aloe,
wliicli
three or four, hke
di'ift
young
There
flowerinGT-stems.
and
I found gi'owing in rows of
is
sand on the surface.
resquely placed on a rocky
which
in the walls of
Knights of
hill,
Kephalas
is
with a ruined
pictucastle,
I noticed escutcheons of the
At a few minutes'
John.
St.
with immense
fir-trees,
much conglomerate rock
distance
from the village are the ruins of a Greek Acropolis,

which, as
we now know from
inscriptions,
was
called
Here is a most interesting ruin, a fi-agment of a Greek temple, which now forms part
The south wall
of the church of Panagia Palatiani.
Isthmos.
of the cella
still
remains, forming a kind of vestibule
to the west of the
16 feet long and 6

is
At
feet high.
a doorway 2 feet 5 inches
the
blocks
which
of
5 inches long
and 2
terial is trachyte.
table
it
is
its
"^-ide
Within
W.
is
extremity
the largest of
composed are 4
deep
feet 7 inches
feet
the ma-
this vestibule is a
kind of
formed of ancient blocks put together by the
builders of the chm'ch, which
On
This wall
church.
actual
is
now
called Tpam^â.
this " table," at the annual feast of the saint,
the people hold their iKincgiirls.

similar
Ross noticed a
custom in the island of Pholegandros, and in
both places
it is
no doubt a relic of Paganism.
From
a half-defaced inscription in the pavement of the
church, he ascertained that the temple was dedicated

to a
Roman
of Demeter.
empress, perhaps Livia, in the character
The
sides of the rocky hill
on which
this
church stands, are cultivated in terraces sujjported by

walls, in
and about which are many fragments of the
temple, pieces of architrave, triglyphs, and drums
IN THE
of columns
the shore,
was of the
near Palatia, was the
of inscriptions
have been copied at
from wliicli
247
LEVANT.
On
Doric order.
it
appears that
it
ancient harbour.
number
Kephalas, in which the ancient
Isthmos, occm'S several times.
been noticed,
On
author.
as
I know,
as
far
name of this city,

This name has not
by any ancient
a base copied by Ross
a dedication
is
on one side to the emperor Vespasian, and on the

other to one Satyiôs, son of Themistocles, a physi-
whom
cian,
the Isthmiotes honoured ^\dth a bronze
statue and a
crown of the value of
The decrees are made out

and
in the
fifty
name
gold pieces.
of the senate
jieople.^^^
After crossing the dry bed of a torrent,

to a vineyard,
in
we came
which many pieces of marble had
been dug up, but destroyed to make lime by the
The country about Kephalas produces
peasants.
much
the
native
the top.
in
which
corn,
kept in magazines cut in
is
and
rock,
entered
Magazines of
antiquity.''"
this
by a
The population here

and
agTicultural, poor,
hole
kind were
is
fi-om
common
entirely
dirty in their habits.
We
came home by Asphendu, a pictm-esque

It is
situated high up on the side of Mount Prion.
traversed by ravines, and sheltered by mnnbers of
The inhabitants are a race with
trees and shrubs.
village
more courage than

islands.
Lately,
is
generally found in the Greek
on building a new church, they
hoisted a flag with a picture of the Eesurrection,
which the Governor of Cos ordered them

do-wu.
They
set his order at defiance.
to
take
248
The Turks have
lately
been endeavouring to clean
out the ancient harbour of Cos by dredging, and have
found a colossal hand, probably from the statue of
some Roman emperor, whose body may still lie emin the mud.
I obtained during this visit an
bedded
unedited inscription, containing a mention of Hala-
by Ross on the S.E. shore of

embassy to some king, probably one
sarna, -which is placed
the island.
An
of the Ptolemies,
is
also mentioned.
This inscription
was presented to me by the Ionian for whom we

had obtained redress from the Turkish captain.
I also copied an inscription in the possession of
M.
Demetri Phatanista, which contains the commence-
ment of a
from the Emperor Tiberius to
letter
the people of Cos, beai'iug date A.D. 15, the year
of his accession.
Our departm'e
much pomp and

there.
The
Cos was not attended
fi'om
vnih. so
circumstance as marked our arrival
We embarked
in a little caique full of Turks.
-wind blew fresh from the
N.W., as
does here at niglit in this season, and
it
generally
we made
the
passage to Rhodes in one night.
XIX.
Rhodes,
On
the 30th of August I
coast of Syria.
Lord
18-5.3.
was agreeably surprised by
a visit from the " Firebrand," on her
was
October 10,
Carlisle
way south
to the
was on board, and

him
so delighted with Rhodes, that I persuaded
to be
my
gnest
till
the return of the "Firebrand."
Wo
had a grand
249
THE LEVANT.
IN
pic-nic at the beautiful fountain at
ViUa Nova, where
I entertained the officers of the
some pale
of water-melons and
" Firebrand" with a lamb roasted whole,

ale,
and suudiy
paniiiersful
grapes from the neighbouring village.
On remounting
our mules to return, the more
adventurous of the party attempted, greatly to the
The
horror of the nudeteers, to ride cross-country.
Mule was extremely well

argued on both sides, and in spite of wooden packsaddles, chain bridles, and rope stirrups. Midshipman
generally succeeded in carrying his point by the
case of
Midshipman
versus
persuasive influence of a big stick.
The
my great concern and dismay, Lord
After sta}ang one day, the "Fu'ebrand"
next morning, to
Carlisle
became alarmingly
left us.
I sent for the doctor
ill.
of the Quarantine, an Italian enjoying some repute

at Rhodes, Avho, after watching his patient for three
days, pronounced the disease to be small-pox.
mediately wrote to
I
am happy
The
first
Smyrna
to say,
for Dr.
im-
McCraith, who,
arrived by the next steamer.
fortnight of the illness
was an anxious
time for me; for I very soon perceived that the

Italian doctor,
as the
life
alarmed at having so great a charge
of an English Milord in his hands, grew
nervous and indecisive in his measures.

the disease
is
one which
is
Fortunately
often best let alone;
and
thus the strcnua inertia of the Rhodian Hippokrates
probably saved Lord Carlisle's
When
life.
Dr. McCraith arrived,
lie
found his patient
rapidly approaching convalescence, and after a glance

at him, ordered a roast partridge
and a glass of sherry.
250
Great was the consternation of
tlie
Rhodian doctor,
wlio had been sedulously ^"itlidrawing
ment but
nourish-
" Dio mio," he said to me, "vino!
iisaiu'-'^.
c pernice
all
Milord
-w-ill
never bear
this
all
strong
food."
When,
in the course of a
few days, he saw Milord
walking about quite well, he did what doctors have

not always the candour to do, confessed that he was
mistaken, and that the constitution of an
Englishman was to him a mystery.
I had written to Lord Stratford and Admiral
Dundas to tell them of Lord CarHsle's illness. The
utterly
consequence was that soon after Dr. McCraith's
came a steamer from the Admiral bringing
arrival
Dr. Rees, the chief surgeon from the " Britanuia."
Nor was
this
for Dr.
all,
Sandwith, hearing at Con-
Lord Carlisle's illness, came at once

him so that the Rhodian Turks began to
wonder what manner of man my guest could be who
had so many doctors at his beck and call.
stantinople of
to tend
Small-pox
is
veiy prevalent in this part of Turkey,
particularly in Asia Minor,
swept away by
pustules
uncared
may
for.
it,
where whole
villages are
and where children covered with
be seen plapng about the streets
The
native population, both Turks and
Greeks, has a prejudice against vaccination, though

the Doctors attached to the Quarantine
ments take every means to introduce

Dr. McCraith,
and
who
is
establish-
it.
equally skilful as a sm'geon
as a physician, very kindly offered to give medical
advice to the poor of

here.
Rhodes
gratis during his stay
The fame of the great Sm_\Tna
larpog soon
251
IN THE LEVANT.
spread half over the island, and the Consulate has
been for some days thronged
and blind of many
Avith the halt, lame,
villages.
Amono- the cases brought before Dr. McCraith

was that of a young lady of thirteen, already
married, and with a child in her arms, which from
her
own
Among
she was unable to nourish.
tender age
the causes of the degradation of the races
Levant may be reckoned the unnaturally early
in the
marriages which are very

islands.
age of
common
many
in
of these
At Calymnos girls generally marry at the

The Greek Bishops might, if they
twelve.
chose, check this practice.
There
seems
of
climate
be a great tendency in the
to
Rhodes
to
McCraith found a good many cases of

Avhich is a triangular
of the cornea and

It
may
Dr.
ophthalmic diseases.
web commencing
ptenj/jiuvb,
in the edge
spreading imvards to the pupil.
be removed by cutting.
Great Avas the astonishment of the natives at the

results of various operations for cataract,
An
&c.
old priest
came
harelip,
fi'om a distant village to
have his thumb amputated, of Avhich the bone was
He bore the
diseased.
and when I met him
weeks
for
"and
my
At
his
native
me
villas-e
some
Avith gratitude,
" I go to the church every day," he
offer four Avax candles to the
iarpoV
[Dr. McCraith],
and
Panagia, tAvo
tAvo
for
my
meaning me.
chelliby,"
afi-aiu
in
afterAvards, overAvhelmed
rakee, and snuff.

said,
pain like an ancient Spartan,
the end of the month, the " Firebrand" called

at
Rhodes, and took Lord Carlisle on board.
252
TEAVELS AND DISC'OVEEIES
Captain Parker kindly conveyed

Calyninos, as I
was anxious
me
also as far as
Greek
to explore tlie
cemetery there, with a view to excavation.
Here I took leave of my kind friend Lord Carlisle,

and saw with regretful eyes the " Firebrand " get
me
under weigh, leaving
suddenly bereft of
life
their amenities
the rough
for
which, I knew, was in store for me.
was landed
in the
the
few days, and some-
l^leasant associations of the last
what unnerved by
all
When
harbour in the early morning, I
remained
like a waif
seated on
my
thrown up on the sandy beach,
carpet bag, and plunged in a reverie
about home, from which I was roused by an Ionian,
who
very kindly came to offer
me
hospitality in his
house.
In every island in the Archipelago there are stray

lonians; wherever there are lonians there is litigation
and
litigation is siu'e to
come, sooner or later, within
the action of the Consul.
It
for these reasons
is
that Consuls can so easily
make
most inhospitable
of the
villages
unprotected travellers might be
their
way
Levant,
in the
where
left to starve.
I passed several days at Calymnos, examining the
Greek cemetery
about to report the result of

Stratford,
who
is
sufficiently
my
so kind as to undertake to ask the
Porte for a firman,
nos
Damos, and am
researches to Lord
at a place called
if
I think the
ground at Calym-
promising to make an excavation
worth while.
I asked the Calymniotes
what they thought, hoped,
or feared in the present crisis, and they appeared to
think that they were very well off at present, and
not suffer at
ft'ould
253
THE LEVANT.
IN
all
by the
"As long-
evils of war.
as we can
sell onr sponges," said these cannyislanders,

" we don't care whether the Sultan makes war or
The answer was
not."
a discreet one, but I doubt
moment
Just at this
its sincerity.
they would be
show too much Hellenic sympathy,

English ship of war anchored in their bay.
afraid to
mth
an
XX.
Rhodes,
Thkee large Turkish steam
JS'ovemher 3, 18.)3.
a few days ago for troops from Beirout.
tends mischief
in
revolution
hope
it is
it
just
is
fell,
This por-
not the forerunner of a
Constantinople.
thunder of Zeus Atabyrios
down
frigates passed
As
winte,
rolling over
is
400 years since the
last of the
my
the
head
Pateologi
nobly fighting for the remnant of an empire in
the breach at Constantinople
with a long
mind
is
tail all
we have had
the summer, and
a comet
my superstitious
picturing to itself a great massacre of the
Christians, or
nople.
We
some such catastrophe,
at Constanti-
are entering on a strange crisis now.
Though om- little island is as tranquil and as radiant

in the autumn sun as ever, we begin to be infected
with the general war mania. In the harbour are
three Ottoman ships of war, which I suppose are
The
intended to take care of us in time of need.
Turkish authorities here have been for some time
past in a fussy, restless state of mind which
betokens vague alarms.
Their efforts to put the
254
place in
amusing.
an
of defence
are ratlier
are destrojang the rich
brown tone
efficient
They
state
of the fortifications with whitewash, and patcliing
with
made by
plaster the time-hallowed breaches
the stone balls of
Mahomed
II.
and Solyman the
Magnificent, with the vague hope that this white-
wash
will
scare
away the Russians.
Every day a
miserable handful of sailors and marines are landed
from the Turkish brig-of-war stationed here, and go

through an elementary
drill,
them how
in time to teach
by which
hoped
it is
to use their cutlasses.
These unpleasant preparations do not
apjêar
to
much the mind of the Greek population.

The Rhodian peasant continues to dance at his
disturb
panegyrls to the old monotonous tune of his Au'â
he inquires now and then about the chance of war,

but with no very distinct idea of what
about,
masters.
and
no
with
In the
jjart
apparent
"\Wsh
it
to
is
all
change
of Turkey which I have had
the opportunity of judging of from personal residence, that
is
peasantry do
to
not
present state of
say the Ai'chipelago, the Greek
appear
affairs.
condition has certainly
discontented
with the
Their physical and moral
much improved under
the
guarantee of the Tanzimat, especially in places Avhere

its
action can be enforced
by consuls, and where
constant communication by steam with Constantinople and Europe brings the force of jûblic opinion
to
bear upon the local abuses of places, such as
Rhodes and Mytilene, Avhich formerly were governed

whom no village Hampden
by petty tyrants, against

could appeal.
255
IN THE LEVANT.
In an excursion in
tlie
villages tlie otlier day, I
heard a sermon almost wortliy of old Latimer, from
my
fi'iend
Nikandros,
described in
He
my
tlie
Greek
account of the
preached on the day of the
his audience for too
much
whom
priest,
visit to Arcliangelo.
feast,
revelling.
and rebuked
He said,
"
You
come to these feasts, you eat, drink, dance, and

what not besides, and then in the morning you come
into the chm'ch, and think, by the ofiering of one little
candle, to make your peace with God. Do you think
God cares for jôur candles ? " Then he began to talk
about death and another woi^ld, till, by his energetic
language, he had created a visible sensation among
his audience, and moved some of them to tears.
Then he paused, and rubbed his hands Avith that
inward feeling of satisfaction which
all
extem^ôre
when they begin to perceive that

Then he turned off to the subthe discourse tells.
ject of politics, and told them that these were times
in which every one must look after his own personal
orators experience
safety,
and that of those belonging to him,
(the Ehodiotes are noted cowards)
Avomen, he said,
silver
let
ornaments
and
was
about
their
over, I asked
Panga, whether
all
jDcrsons,
my knowing
is
is
for the
lest
When
they
the
muleteer,
the Greek priests in the villages
" No," he said,
preached as good sermons as that.
"there
man
them not wear any gold or
should excite the cupidity of robbers.

discourse
like a
but one Nikandros among priests, as there
but one Panga among muleteers."

It is not,
however, with impunity that Nikandros
indulges in such freedom of speech
he
is
detested
TRAVELS ANP PTSrOYERIES
256
by Ms less learned and zealous brethren, who intrigue

against
him
him
at
The other day
Rhodes.
My
to dinner.
Greek cook, Hadgi, who
model of devout hypocrisy, was
so
him
is
shocked at
entertaining such a Lutheran, that I had

culty in persuading
I invited
some
my
diffi-
to give us any dinner.
I have already remarked that the Greek priests

in
Rhodes have
Roman
little
personal
want of
ence to the lax manner in which confession
ducted in the Greek Church.
The
influence.
Catholics here attribute this
influ-
con-
is
In illustration of this
was told me of a former

Pasha of Rhodes, who, like Haroun al Raschid, was
view, an amusing anecdote
in the habit of
One
going among his subjects in disguise.
day, attired as a Frank, he presented himself
before a Catholic priest and confessed that he

slain a
Turk
is
Turk.
an
"My
infidel,
said the priest,
son,"
but
you have not the
sinned in the eyes of God."
He
had
"the
less
then dismissed
The Pasha, then

taking a difierent disguise, confessed the same crime
to a Greek priest, who immediately gave him absolution, thanking God at the same time that there
was one Mussulman less in the world. The next
day, the Pasha, taking his place on his judgment
seat, summoned the two priests before him, and
when he had made known the deceit he had practised
on them, proceeded there and then to hang the
him, ordering a severe penance.
imfortunate Greek priest.

to add, that this
Pasha
before the Tanzimat.
It is hardly necessary
lived in the
good old times
IN THE LEVANT.
257
XXI.
Rhodes, December
One
10, 1853.
of the pleasantest excursions in the neigh-
bourhood
of
Rhodes
to the
is
Trianda, distant about
five
the road to Villa Nova.
pretty village
of
miles from the city, on
This road, issuing from
the Neomaras, passes along the shore, up to the foot
Thence, making a bend to
of St. Stephen's Hill.
the west at the distance of about half an hour from

the town,
it
passes along the side of a marsh, where,
according to the local legend which Schiller has

immortalized, Dieudonnc de Gozon slew the
Beyond
dragon.'"'
to the north,
this
tei'rible
marsh the shore bends round
forming the bay of Trianda, a
anchorage in a south wind.

over a plain at a
little
The
fair
village is scattered
distance from the
shore.
Here the Knights passed their villeggiatnra during

the summer months in pijrgi surrounded by gardens.
Many of these houses still remain

They
in fair preservation.
same simple style of

military Gothic as the houses in the town of Rhodes.
In some of these pyrgi the entrance-door was
are built of stone, in the
anciently on the second story, to which there
was
no access but by a drawbridge communicating
^dtli
a detached flight of stone steps.
Trianda
or
Rhoda
lies at
the foot of a
hill
called Phileremo,
Vecchia, the site of the ancient Acropolis
of lalysos.
This
hill,
which
s
is
a familiar seamark to
258
mariners approaching Rhodes from the north, rises

steeply out of the j^lain
which the
its
level has probably
top
a platform of
is
been improved by
art.
Its greatest leno'th is fiôm north-east to south-west.
This kind of table-land constantly occurs on the
north side of the island.
The hill of Phileremo was occupied by the Knights,

and
is
frequently mentioned in the accounts of the
siege.
On
vault.
summit is a small crypt with a tunnel

The roof and sides are covered with pictures
the
in distemper,
much
Some
decayed.
are in armour, from the style of which,
of the figures
and the form
of the escutcheons, I should infer that the date was
about 1430.
At
the east end
Saviour, and below, St. George
is
;
represented the
on the
roof,
the
Crucifixion.
Bast of
this
subterraneous
vault
is
a Gothic
building with two rooms, side by side, covered with

intersecting ribbed vaults.
in a very
The windows
are lancet,
pure Gothic, like our early English, but
probably as late as 1360 in date.

other rooms which
still
There are several
retain their vaulting.^"
I noticed here a block of marble
on which were
sculptured the arms of the Grand Master Fabrizio

del Carretto, quarterly with those of the Order.
It
was here
that, in the time of the Knights, stood
the celebrated church Notre
Dame
de Philerme, so
often mentioned in the chronicles of the siege.

shrine of this
Madonna pilgrims
resorted,
ever Rhodes was threatened by any great
image was carried
in
To the
and whenperil,
her
solemn procession to the town.
269
IN THE LEVANT.
On
the edge of
tlie
table
land
may be
seen
some slight remains of the Hellenic fortification

which occupied this site, and which was called
Ochyi'oma, or "the strong place," and on the north
side, about two-thirds of the way up the lines,
terrace walls may be traced, though much concealed by fig-trees.
On
this side,
under a walnut-
tree at a foimtain, are some fragments of Ionic
columns in sandstone, 2^ feet in diameter. Here I

obtained a marble lion's head from a cornice fairly
lalysos
sculptured.^^'
cities
was one of the three ancient
of which the pohtical importance was destroyed
by the founding of Rhodes B.C. 408.

scribes
as a
it
mere
xcofxrj
or
Strabo de-
^Tillage in his
time
Rhodes he reckons at 80 stadia,

I'ather more than nine English
miles.
The distance fiôm Trianda to Neomaras
We must look, therefore,
is not more than five.
its
distance from
which would be
west of Phileremo.
a Swedish savant resiHedenborg,
The Chevaher
dent at Rhodes, possesses a fine amphora, with black
figures on a red ground, which, as he informs me,
for lalysos to the
was found
in a
tomb near Phileremo
and between
and Maritza, at the distance of one hour

from the latter place, is a mound called Catzechi, on
which was discovered the top of a Greek marlile
that
stele,
hill
sculptured with a rich floral ornament like
those found at Athens.^-*
and the
The
stele
fields
it
was found on
This place
village,
round
lies
The mound seems
artificial,
were strewn with pottery.
its
eastern side.
south of Ivremasto, close to which
according to M. Guerin, architectm'al marbles,
s2
260
the foundation of a temple, and Hellenic tombs, have
from time to time been discovered.

bable, therefore, that the
town of
It
seems
lalj'sos
j^ro-
occupied
marked out for it in the Admiralty Chart.

M. Berg, a German painter sent by the king of
the site
Prussia to the Levant, arrived here a few days ago,
and
at present
is
my
The
guest.
his mission is to visit
Lycia
principal object of
Imt he proposes to
till the spring, and is now exploring

Rhodes imder my auspices. He has made a beautiful panoramic sketch of the town of Rhodes, and
remain here
many
I
was
di-a wings
in
of the architecture of the Knights.
hopes that he would be able to make studies
of the costume of the peasants,

curious superstition about
them very unwilling
portraits,
is
that the indiâdual
who
which makes
In their minds
to be di-awn.
the idea of likeness
is
but they have a
connected with that of
life,
so
allows his portrait to be taken
believed to be thenceforth in the power of the
person
in a
who
remote
The other
possesses his likeness.

village, I
succeeded with
infinite trouble,
and through the intervention of Panga,

a young
girl to sit to
M. Berg.
day,
in
persuading
Just as the sketch
was completed, the mother arrived, and on learning

what had occurred in her absence, reproached her
daughter with as much bitterness as if she had
committed some
heinous
crime,
an onslaught on the poor painter,

efforts
to
appease the
clamour,
and made such

that, after vain
he tore
up'
his
drawing.
This cm-ious superstition
old belief that witches
seems a
relic
of the
had power over persons by
261
IN THE LEVANT,
making images inscribed with

they then subjected to certain
names, which
their
rites.
^"''
[In January, 1854, I transferred
tlie
charge of
the Consulate at Rhodes to Mr. J. B. Blunt, being
obliged to go to England on private business.
returned to Turkey in June of the same year, and a
new Consul having been appointed

back to
my
at Rhodes,
went
old post at Mytilene.]
XXII.
Mytilene, July
I SPENT a few days at
Athens on
5,
1854.
my way
back,
and took the opportunity of revisiting Mavrodhilissi

to examine a fragment of one of the inscriptions
discovered since I copied them in 1852.
ment
gives the
in the
games.
commencement
of the
In the course of
my
list
This fragof victors
stay, I
became
acquainted with several of the yomig professors,
who
are
sent out by the French Government to
study archiBology in the Levant, and
who have
their
head-quarters at the ficole Franâise at Athens.
One
of these gentlemen,
M. Guerin, has
illustrated
Patmos in
memoirs to which I have already referred. Another
member of this school, M. Boutan, is about to visit
Mytilene for the purpose of preparing a memoir on
the antiquities of Rhodes, Samos, and
the island, which has
been selected as a subject
by the French Academy.
accompanied him and
TRAVELS
262
some Frencli naval
DISCOVEEIES
jVND
on a
officers
where, on our arrival,
we were
that this had become a
new Greek
common
place.
Ministry.
They
was
told
practice of late.
seems tolerably
Su' T. "Wyse
to Eleusis,
ignominiously pelted
by the boys of the
witli stones
visit
satisfied \\ath
will, I
the
dare say, act as
the "Western Powers wish so long as our troops are

at
the
Pirajus
The
they withdraw,
Greek ministers usuaUy
do.
great mass of the people does not seem very
uneasy at
the
doubtless,
is felt,
than proud
let all
occupation.
mortification,
but as the inhabitants of Athens have
the houses in the Phasus for
and
beef
selling
troops,
Some
though the Greeks are rather vain
an unheard-of rent,
in
moment
but the
they will behave as
barracks
at
and are every day engaged

bread for
the presence of
body of
large
foreign bayonets
is
not
perhaps quite so disagreeable as might have been

supposed.
The Greek minister the other day gave
a grand
banquet to the Enghsh, French, and Greek

in the
Acropohs.
The dinner was
officers
laid out in the
Parthenon, which seems a great desecration
but
the place was not inappropriate for the inaugm'ation
of a
new
epoch,
On my
to take
if this is to
leaving Athens, Captain King, being about
H.M.S. "Leander" on a cruise to look
pirates, kindly offered
where our
to
be one.
arrival
that part
me
for
a passage as far as Syra,
was a source of great
of the population wliich
satisfaction
does
not
belong to the Greek Church.
This place consists
the
Greek town on the
of two
distinct
towns,
IN
shore,
These
and
tlie
Latin town on
who
Latter,
are
of the Italian families
263
THE LEVANT.
all
tlie
me
above.
Catholics, are descendants
who
occupied so
Archipelago in the Middle Ages.

assured
heiglits
much
of the
Several of
them
that since the outbreak of the Russian
war they had been exposed to many insults when

passmg through the Greek quarter, being constantly
invited by the populace " to come to the font and be
rebuptized," the Greeks not considering the rite of
baptism valid unless performed by a priest of their
own
faith.
This feeling of antipathy between the
Latin and Greek populations prevails

Archipelago, and
some day lead
if
all
through the
may
not checked from without,
to religious feuds as intense as that
Ombos and
of the two Egyptian to-wns

described in Juvenal.
We
Tentyra,
saw something of the
impleasant temper of the Greeks at Syra one evening, Avhen the band of the " Leander " was sent on
shore to play for the amusement of the
toA\Ti.
very dirty and disorderly rablile crowded upon the

part of the Piazza where the ladies were seated, so
rudely as almost to upset their chairs.

authorities very properly interfered
murmured
at
their very
The
local
but the people
temperate remonstrance,
and I heard one unwashed and somewhat noisy

representative
of the
Demos
of
Syra upbraid a
policeman for thus doing his duty, and say to him,

in a
menacing tone, that he was annoying the people.
I have too often occasion to remark that the lower

orders in the Archipelago have not yet learnt that
good manners are perfectly compatible vdth

institutions.
free
TEAYELS AXD DISCOVEIdES
264
Dui'ing his stay Captain
King
sent off a boat to
Delos, to look for pii'ates, "wlio have multipHed since
the war broke out, but are so chased by the boats

of
French and English
the
there
is
every hope that they will be put down.
They have had the audacity
lately to rob a boat in
According to the
sight of the harbour of Syra.
opinion
of Avar, that
ships
of
Mr.
who massacred
the scoundrels
Consul
our
Wilkinson,
there,
crew
the
of the
"Harriet" the other day were volunteers going

to the frontier,
and not professional
pirates,
off
who do
not generally commit murder in these seas.
At S}Ta
I took leave of the "
Leander," and
barked in an Austrian steamer boimd
Retm-ning to
my
for
era-
Smp-na.
old post, after an absence of
nearly a year and a half, I found Mr. Grenville
Murray, who had been acting in
my absence,
insular
life.
my
anxiously awaiting
to be released from the
He
my
stead during
arrival in order
monotonous weariness of
has a shrewd appreciation of the
Greek character, and his estimate of the Mytileniotes

seems to be much the same as
my own. Now
have had the opportunity of comparing
that I
]\Iytilene
with other islands in the Turkish Archipelago, I

struck with
intelligence
the fact that
its
am
superior wealth and
have contributed so
little
to the moral
improvement of the population.
The difference in the state of society here and at

Rhodes may be thus accounted for. The Rhodiote
is for the most part a peasant proprietor
his chief
employment is to cultivate his own land, consuming
;
the greater part of the produce in his
own
family.
2Go
IN THE LEVANT.
As
a trader nor a mariner,
lie is neitlier
simple natm-e, and he
actions are of a
trans-
liis
is
seldom
involved in litigation.
The
Mytileniote,
he
if
a landholder,
But
a cultivator of olives.
its yield.
is
generally
this tree is uncertain in
crop cannot be expected on the
full
average more than once in three years.
one in Mytilene
is
who owns
converting his crop into
olives is
Hence every
forced, after
money, so to invest the
proceeds as to get a profitable return during the

barren years.
There being neither public securities nor banks
in
which investments can be made, the cultivator of

olives
lend
must
it
ships.
either trade with his
money himself
or
on such security as mortgages on land or
But
as there
is
no certainty
in the adminis-
tration of justice, such securities cannot be made as

safe as the
The
law makes them in most parts of Europe.
debtor,
powerful
if
he enjoys the protection of some
member
of
tlie
Mejlis, evades the fore-
closing of a mortgage, contrives a fi-audulent bank-
ruptcy,
and,
not
unfrequently,
denies
his
own
The natural
signature with unblushing effrontery.
results of this speculative style of trading are a very
low standard of commercial morality, an exorbitant

rate of interest, ranging from 12 to 24 per cent.,
and a passion
community
is
for petty litigation.
so absorbed in this
trading, the general calibre of
When
a whole
kind of paltry
mind
is
very
much
that of the old usurer, of Avhom Aristophanes has
given us so graphic a portrait in his " Nubes," and

the base low cunning of the Mytileniotes has gained
266
for tliem
an unenviable notoriety among
tlieir fellow-
Greeks.
Having a little leisure time at present, I have

been making an effort to learn Turkish. My master
is
a Hoja or
jjiîest,
whose
special vocation
it is
teach small Turkish boys reading and writing.
method of instruction
It consists simply in
is
out to
him
word
forcing
as
His
the dreariest imaginable.

the pupil
after him, first, a collection of syllables
sentences, each
to
it
is
to repeat
and then of
uttered being pointed
may
in a printed text, in order that he
thus learn to associate a particular group of characters with a particular word.

is
expected to learn
been taught the
all this
The unfortunate
pupil
en bloc, before he has
letters of the alphabet, the simplest
grammatical forms, or even the commonest colloquial

words.
It
is
evident that such a method can only
succeed with a native
through the
already acquired,
the use of his vernacular.
ear,
Hoja, however,
who has
who is
who
quated bigotry, and
the impersonation
is
My
of anti-
as obstinate as a Mytilene
mule, insists on forcing Colnaghi and myself tlu'ough

this disgusting
mechanical drudgery, and was very
angry the other day when he discovered that we
were abridging his circuitous route by taking a short
and easy
cut,
and that
in
the intervals
nauseous lessons we studied a very amusing
of
his
collec-
tion of dialogues and tales, in which the Turkish
text
is
printed in
and
Roman
as well as Arabic charac-
accompanied by a French translation.

The Hoja seemed shocked at the notion that any one
ters,
is
should try to abridge the time required for learning
267
IN THE LEVANT.
He
to read Turkisli.
cency that
tlie
told
iis
witli
mucli compla-
required about forty years to master
it
Koran
text of tlie
but that at the expiration of
that period the scholar would meet his reward, for
the
Koran contained
osity to
all
knowledge that was of any
I asked him whether he had no curi-
use to man.
know anything about European
He
or the discoveries of European science.
me
the old stereotyj)ed answer, that
new knowledge was good
if
for the soul
countries
gave
any of
this
of man,
it
would be found in the Koran (by dint of searching

of course)
if
not,
day I showed him
The bellows
bath.
as
it
drove in the
stolid indiflference.
it
how I
made a
explaining to
inflated an india-rubber
curious squeaking noise
The Hoja stood by with
air.
When
the bellows, he inquu'ed
my
One
was not worth knowing.
why
him the
had stopped working
On
the noise ceased.
cause, he said with a look
of disappointment, " I thought that there
was an
animal inside."
XXIII.
Mytilene, August
IG, 1854.
FEW days ago, Ishmael Pasha, the Governor-
General
Rhodes,
of
in a
the Archipelago,
arrived
Turkish war steamer.
mer the Pasha
of the Archipelago
of inspection round the islands
here
fi'om
Every sum.
makes
entrusted
a tour
to
his
charge, with the professed object of redressing any
grievances and punishing any acts of maladminis-
208
His
tration.
then
made
autliority being supreme, appeals are
liim against
to
personal
Tliis
Mejlis.
decisions
tlie local
be made to operate as a salutary check on
niiglit
I fear, however, that, in
local abuses.
the only result of such a visit
sundry
presents
atonement
On
of
of a paslialik
inspection
for
the
fi'om
any
sins
is
most
cases,
the extortion of
subordinate Pasha,
in
of maladministration.
Pasha of the Archipelago
this occasion, the
was accompanied by Mr. Campbell, who has been

recently appointed Consul at Rhodes and wishing
to do all honour to such distinguished strangers,
;
I gave
them a
My
rustic entertainment.
worthy
and amiable neighbour, the French Vice-Consul,
M.
was
Didier,
also duly invited, in order that this
banquet might be complete as a celebration of the

triple alliance.
We feasted
on a roast lamb in a Turkish garden
the flags of the three nations formed an a-wming over
our heads
we drank
the Sultan's health in pale
and taught the Turks to receive

hip, hip, hip,
with an English
which they did not the
least understand,
but were not the less delighted with.

tinguished individuals present
after another,
All the dis-
made speeches one
through the medium of
my dragoman
and very curious discourses they were.

of
ale,
it
Rhodes having drunk two
dinner, and about
The Pasha
glasses of rakee before
two bottles of pale
ale at dinner,
the Pasha of Mytilene, being his subaltern in rank,

felt
bound
to imitate his
example
and being a poor
shaky old man, has had indigestion ever

result of Giaour beer.
i?ince,
the
do not know that any other
IN
THE LEVANT.
269
we walked about on
the shore, listening to barbarous Greek music.
The
Pasha of Rhodes took my arm, and being very dnmk,
mishap took place.
After dinner
rolled about, so that I
him
had great
difficulty in
keeping
return
before
steady.
Mr. Campbell being obliged
to
me
completing his tour, requested
accompany
to
We
Ishmael Pasha to Tenedos, and Lemnos.

ceeded to Tenedos in the Pasha's
weather was
very
we
fine,
the
the Pasha in excellent spirits and
disposed to talk.
Avell
steamer
pro-
As he speaks Greek,
could dispense with the restraint imposed by the
intervention of a dragoman, and I had the oppor-
tunity of discussing
many
topics
much more
than would have been possible in a formal
where a pasha
his konak,
Ishmael Pasha,
to
you
able
my
in
man.
whom
Rhodian
is
freely
visit to
seldom alone.
I have already described
letters, is rather a
remark-
might
If he could only speak French, he
be ambassador at London or Paris, or hold even

a higher position in his
smart
own
country.
man, dressed hke a
little
pcîf
He
is
a very
'iiuiitrc,
with
very shiny boots, trousers studiously strapped do^vn,

his beard
care.
and hair trimmed with the most scrupulous
He
in every
is
way
a trimmer.
set of fair speeches for the
He
has one
English consul, another
for the Turkish magnates, another for the Greeks.
He
tries to
be
to delight in
all
things to
European
all
society,
men.
He
and stays
professes
till
day-
break at such profane entertainments as European

balls.
He
respects the Prophet's prohibition in the
matter of wine
but, finding no mention of spirituous
270
liquors
iu
Koran, considers
the
After dinner
allowed.
liis
tliem as
tacitly
orgies are sueli as to
shock the propriety even of the M}i;ileniotes.
As compared with really strict Mussulmans, Ishmael Pasha may be called a Turkish esprit fort. He
laughs at the poor plodding Hoja vrith his Koran
under
his arm,
Koran was only a
that the
it
and admitted to me,
confidentially,
religious book, but that
did not contain all liunian science, as the Hoja
supposed
that there were such things as geogi'aphy,
history, &c.,
which were profitable to know, and yet
did not form part of the
Koran
that
it
did not
know the contents of this

wonderful book, but that any man of common sense
might master it in as many months.
The opportunity seemed not a bad one for
require
forty years
to
speaking out plainly, so I
said,
"
Why
does not the
Sultan encourage Em-opeans to buy land and settle

in
Turkey, instead of throwing
drances in the
all
way of such purchases
could be encouraged to
settle in
would be expended on the
land,
manner of
?
If
hin-
Europeans
Tm'key, capital
which
is
at present
want of proper cultivation."

The Pasha winced a little, and said, " But what
woiild become of the Turks ?
We should all sell
our land, and become beggars." I could not say to
him, "Why not?" I renewed the subject in the
utterly impoverished for
com'se of the day
and only took
but he " shifted his chibouque,
snuff."
Ishmael Pasha professes to have a taste

ture,
and
actually
for litera-
saw him read a page of a
Turkish book, after which his eyes became fatigued
with
and
exertion,
tlie
271
THE LEVANT.
IN
lie
gave
He
book to
tlie
me
his divan
was the
history of the destruction of the Janissaries, drawn
up by official authority, and that his own name was
effendi to read to him.
mentioned
On
in
told
that
it
it.
arriving at Tenedos, I spent two or three days
on shore
house of M. Tolmides, the Austrian
in the
whom
consular agent, from
obtamed some useful
information about the island.
Tenedos
is
much
mountainous than any island
less
of the Archipelago which I have yet seen.
thhig like roads exist

to the rlijld or the
and
jjeople talk
surrounded by
The
the winds.
is
The vineyards
hills,
about going
instead of up or down, as
left,
they do at Mytilene, where there

mile of level land.
Some-
which keep
hardly a square
lie
in small plains
off the violence of
vines are very small, and cultivated
along the ground, more in the European style than

in
any vineyard Avhich I have seen in Turkey.
The
vineyards are generally manured every two years
they are dug three times each
pronged hoe,
The
soil
still
its
j^'ear
with a two-
ancient name, o/xsXAa.
The grapes
Mavrelia.
As
a rich and friable loam.
is
most esteemed
for flavour arc called
these yield but
commoner
by
called
little juice,
sort called
they are mixed with a
Kondoures.
At the
vintage
the grapes are picked over, and the decayed ones

rejected
but this
is
not done with
much
care.
The
grapes are trodden by the foot, and the pulp then
put into a vat, where
month
it is
for another
it
is
kept boiling for about a
then put into barrels, Avhere
month
after
it
which the wine
remains
is
fit
to
272
di'ink, tliougli
some drink
of the vat.
was assured
any adulteration, and that

and bear transport by
vintage
is
as soon as
it
it
This
is
itself
more than a year
Avhat I tasted
was of
excellent quality.
one of the few places

is
made
in the
Archipelago
The Greeks
making enough
for exportation.
generally content themselves with
consumption from year to year, very
their ovra
much
of a
generally sold off at once, and I could
Avhere wine
for
comes out
The whole produce
sea.
hear of no Avine in the island

or two old
it
was made without

would keep many years
tliat it
as the farmers in Herefordshhe
They have bottles but no corks,

wooden hoops, and everything
make
cider.
barrels with only
the same
in
else
provisional style.
The annual produce
of the vintage varies from
25,000 to 10,000 barrels.

Aantage in a good year
ters,
is
barrel
holds nearly
The annual value of the
sixteen imperial gallons.
reckoned at 800,000 pias-
about 6,779.1=^
M. Tolmides estimated the number
of vines in the
island at about a million.
He
whole
cultivation
annual
expense
of
thought that the
might
be
reckoned at seventeen shillings for every thousand

vines.
vineyard,
produce wine for
when
six years
first
;
planted, does
in the
not
seventh year
it
begins to be profitable.
The wine
of Tenedos
used to be exported to
Odessa, but since the Russian war has been sent to

Constantinople.
No
other article of commerce
is
exported from
the island, except a small quantity of wool.
IN THE LEVANT.
The harbour
still,
much exposed
is
273
to the north,
and
is
as in the time of the ancients, statio malefidn.
carinis
but I was assured that a good harbour
might be made by running out a mole on the N.W.,

at a cost of rather more than 2,000. It is calculated
that such a harbour would contain about
ships
fifty
not exceeding 400 tons burthen, and would probably

give considerable impetus to the wine trade.
The population
4,000,
of Tenedos
reckoned at about
is
The
of which one-third are Turks.
island
only produces sufficient wheat to support the inhabitants during three
months of the
of the taxes of the island
amount
The whole
year.
to 300,000 piasters
(equal to 2,542), of which the tithe of the grapes
produces 48,000, and the Pako 155,000.
The Palto is an assessment tax on the value of the

wine.
The community of Tenedos engage to pay
the Porte
raise
by the
200,000 piasters annually, which they

tithe
and the Palto.
has been paid on the wine,

to Constantinople.
is
made up
which varies
it
After the latter tax

is
The remainder
by the Haratch,
fi'om
annually, according
and the Salgun, or
exported duty free
or
of the revenue
capitation
tax,
seventeen shiUings to a dollar

to
the means of each person,
Swo-i/xo,
an assessment tax on
the real property in the island.
produce of these two taxes
is
The
all
joint annual
about 100,000 piasters
(equal to 847).
Besides these regular taxes, the Sultan, from time

to time, levies extraordinary subsidies.
This year
he took 11,000 piasters.
There
is
a Greek school at Tenedos, on which the

T
274
community spends 10,000
sum
collected
is
from
piasters annually.
inhabitants
tlie
The scholars are about 200

some girls. This school has
in
This
generally.
number, includiner
existed about tAventy-
five years.
About two-thirds of the population can neither

read nor write.
There
a Turkish castle here, with a garrison
is
consisting of 180 local militia and 24 artillerymen.
Tenedos was ruined by the Russians when they

occupied
it
lived here.
It
were destroyed
Many
in 1807.
rich
Turks formerly
was once covered with

in the
strong north wind
which
springing up, the Pasha
abandoned his intention of

Samothrace, and
trees,
Greek Revolution.
we returned
visiting
Lemnos and
to Mytilene.
XXIV.
Mytilene, Septemler
6,
1854,
This morning I went at sunrise to see the cere-
mony
of
the
Courban
Bairam.
The Governor-
General turned out with his irregular guards, the

militia
from the
castle,
and some marines from
the ships of war, in a grand procession to the principal
mosque.
He was
embroidery in which
dressed in that rich gold
the
Turks
take
so
much
he was mounted on a magnificent horse,

who walked mincingly, " as if he told the steps ;"
pleasure
before
him
marched
the
half-drUled
rank-and-
275
IN THE LEVANT.
file
of
castle,
tlie
and a
of uncoutli-
strino;
Ions;
looking Albanians and Baslii Bozooks, shambling
along witli that peculiar inimitable swagger
They
belongs to tbe cavass from Asia Minor.
went
to
and
mosque,
the
prayer, retiumed to
an
after
the next
part of the ceremony was the sacrifice of a

of
which are always
sheep,
day to the poor

of the kiosk
were
cut
customary
distributed
dug
holes were
in regular
blood,
and
the Pasha either
for
his representative,
who
is
their
throats
the middle of
to
It is
perform this
or to delegate
it
to
solemnly appointed for this
purpose before the Cadi.

full
this
Homeric
a very workmanlike manner.
operation with his owti hand
ceremony
number
on
they were brought to the door
fashion to receive the

in
all
interval of
Pasha's kiosk
the
wliicli
went home from
this
About
Mussulman associations.
the day I was invited with the other
of
vice-consvds to attend the funeral of a rich
Greek
who had died that morning, and had bequeathed

one-third of his property to found an hospital for
The bequest is supposed to amount

to 200,000 piasters, a large sum in Mytilene. Such
acts of patriotism, if they should become more
the Mytileniotes.
frequent,
racter,
would do much
and raise
it
to
redeem the Greek cha-
to a higher estimation.
of this natm-e could hardly have been
the Tanzimat was established
A bequest
made
before
a Greek would not
have been allowed either to accumulate so large a

sum, or to dispose of it after his death as he hked, at
least not in Mytilene.
When
arrived
at
the funeral,
found
all
276
tlie
Greeks
in
town
tlie
round
collected
house and in the adjoining streets
tlie
at the door
were men canying baskets on then' heads, with

melons and bread, and other offerings
inside
for the
poor
was the sound of weeping and wailing of the
conventional kind, which
is
always thought necessary
in funerals in southern countries.
made my way
and was immediately accoutred with

various white scarfs and sashes
one of which is
to the door,
tied
on the
left
show that the
The
arm.
offered to
my
attempt to put
AU
scorn.
was
When
it
wore
one of these sashes
Albanian cavass, he resisted the

on his arm with true Mussulman
these preparations having been made, I
my
told off with
trian,
on Greek vases
victorious athletes in antiquity
just such a decoration.
was
pictiu-es
colleagues, the French,
Aus-
and Sardinian consuls, to our respective posts
as pall-bearers
narrow,
and so we marched throi;gh the
crowded,
and dirty
nnder a blazing hot sun,
for
of
streets
Mytilene,
upwards of an hour,
till
we had perambulated the whole town and come

round to the same
point.
Possibly this perambulation
may
be a
relic of the
old classical decursio or solemn procession round the
Very weary work

more than once, and
was
funeral pile.
it
a reverie
fell
exquisite embroidery
I got lost in
to studying the
on the Ai'chbishop's robe, who
was walking immediately before me. Having been

charged to buy embroidery for the South Kensington
Museum, I thought what a grand acquisition I could
make
if I
could purchase that and the state robe of
the Pasha, which had figured in the Bairam proces-
IN
sion in
Perhaps in the wi'eck of the
morning.
tlie
277
THE LEVANT.
Turkish empire both these trappings some day mayfall
into
my
hands.
At last we got to the church. "Wlien we were all

wedged into our places, the funeral service began,
long course of droning chants and mumbled prayers.
The heat Avas intense, and I thought we should
never get to the end. At last the chanting ceased,
when up got the Bishop's Preacher, or Hierol'eryx,
and delivered a tedious extempore
in a pulpit,
course in honour of the deceased.
After this
dis-
we got
out of the church, and I thought the burying was certainly going to begin
had done
we had
After the priests
but no.
their work, the schoolmasters began,
to listen to
two more funeral
over the grave, after the Pere la
and
orations, read
Chaise fashion.
The first was written by a young Greek of the

name of Lailios, who had been well educated in
Germany. His oration was full of quotations from
Plato and Sophocles, and at the same time he took
occasion to criticise things and people in Mytilene
very freely
and thus his discourse was employed
same purpose as funeral orations served in

antiquity, when, in the absence of such means of
for the
expressing public opinion

us, the
orator
the individual
interest.
At
as
mixed up
many
fi'ee
with
discotu'ses
when
the
press
and
were
is
such
solemn occasions.
political
over,
and
gamius of Mytilene
crowded round us with that unrestrained

which
affords
the panegyric of
topics of social
last the
the burial began,
then' characteristic in the
license
Greek islands on
They nearly succeeded
in
27S
pusliing
poor old Arclibisliop into the grave, just
tlie
was pouring a vial of holy oil on the coffin

however, we managed to finish the ceremony, and
as
lie
the crowd dispersed.
we
Before
separated, a
man
came round and divested everybody of the scarfs,

Your Greek, though he loves display,
gloves, &c.
has
pose
"a
all
frugal mind," like Mrs. Gilpin;
these trappings were let out for the day.
100.
It is believed that the funeral cost
not
much
my
to
taste
for,
would have
it
more in accordance with the occasion to
have spent more on alms, and

priests,
was
real suffering of the
poor of Mytilene at this moment,
much
It
considering the exces-
and the
sive dearness of bread,
been
so I sup-
and preachers,
less
whom
of
all
on archbishops,
lengthen or
shorten the service in exact proportion to the
had been that of a poor
If the funeral
they receive.
sum
man, he would have been thrust into
his grave with
a few half-articulated prayers, a handful of dust, and
no holy
oil
no public
no archbishop,
orators,
priests,
and deacons
no consular pall-bearers, no pro-
no rose-water and flowers flimg from the

windows, no attendant rabble
in short, none of
cession,
the glories of a Greek funeral.

over, I told
my dragoman
When
was
it
the story of the
Duke
all
recent
of Portland by way
Coming as it did on the same day as the great
Mussulman festival, this Greek pageant made all
fimeral of the
the
ness
of contrast.
deeper impression on
of
the
The
transition.
clashed in a curious
way
having been hoisted
in
me from
two
the
abrupt-
ceremonies
for the consular flags
honour of the
Bairam,
were lowered during
tlie
the
lialf-mast
funeral
whicli did not probably please
elaborate periods in
279
MVANT.
IN THE
tlie
Tui'ks
and
of the
discoxu^se
liigli,
tlie
Greek
professor over the grave were interrupted by the
thunder of saluting batteries fi'om the
Courban Bairam drew to a
close.
The Pasha of the Archipelago

I
had lowered
that
it
was
my
flag
not.
why
sent to uiquire
I sent back a
message to say
Greek who had deserved

How he liked the answer I
in honoui' of a
well of his country.
know
castle, as the
Talking over the
rival doctors of
affau'
with the two
Mytilene the next day, I found that
they were mutiially accusing each other of havhig
put the imfortimate benefoctor of his coimtry out

of this world.
It is further said that his relations,
who honoured
his
memory with
funeral, utterly deserted
him
so magnificent a
in his last
moments,
because he had made this bequest for public purposes.
However, on the whole, I
am
thing like public sphit sthring

It
glad to see some-
among
wants du'ection to good and practical
the Greeks.
objects,
and
such direction can only be given by greater power of

social
grity
combination
among
and truthftdness
and man.
themselves, more
in the relations
inte-
between man
TRAVELS AND DISCOVEUIES
260
XXY.
Smyrna, October
I MENTIONED
visit to
in a previous letter that after
Calymnos
last year, I applied to
me
Lord
my
Strat-
make
excavations
His Excellency having obtained
this firman,
ford for a fii'man to enable

tliere.
10, 185-4.
to
and very kindly provided me with funds sufficient for

can^yhig on a small excavation, I am now about to
take advantage
of his
have done sooner had
assistance,
it
which
I should
not been for the necessity
of going to England last winter.

I an'ived here yesterday on
my way
to Rhodes,
where I have to exhibit the firman to the Pasha.

To-day I went to see the new road which extends fiôm
the Caravan Bridge nearly to Bournabat.
This road,
which was made
in order to
give
last year
employment
distress, is a
to the poor in a period of great
good
-^vdde
macadamized highway, with
a footpath on each side
country make
by subscription,
little
use
but the people of the

of
it,
as
they have no
The mides and pack-horses have
wheeled carriages.
worn away a serpentine track through the bed of

the road.
The smart equestrians of Smyrna usiu-p
the footpath, but nobody uses the road in the sense
in which we use roads in Europe, and it will, consequently, be soon worn in patches, and the track
in the centre
\vill
be broken into holes and jsuddles
as the winter advances.
"Wherever I have seen
281
IN THE LEVANT.
an attempt at road-making
Tm-key,
in
always observed that
tlie traffic is
but alongside of
in
order to avoid
Large sums were promised
pavement.
scription
it,
not on
by
tlie
Greeks
but
now
liave
I
tlie
road,
tlie
hard
for tlie sub-
that the time for
payment has come, there seems to be difficulty in

The making this road has
realizing their promises.
led to the discovery of considerable ancient remains.
Beyond Caravan Bridge, on the road

is
to Bom'iiabat,
a large Turkish cemetery. Immediately beyond this
cemetery great quantities of squared blocks of marbles
and mouldings of buildings

have been recently dug up
one with ornaments in
period
all
rough-hewn
also several sarcophagi,
bas-relief, of
a late
Roman
a colossal head of Apollo or Bacchus, which I
did not see, but which, judging from a drawing, ap-
peared very hard and mannered
and a fi-agment of
an inscription which seemed to be sepulchral. This

spot is probably the site of an ancient cemetery
At Caravan Bridge
situated outside the old town.
a marble
was found in 1852, which probably
lion
marks the
Part of the ground
situation of a tomb.
where these
antiquities
were discovered belongs to
Mr. Whittall, who would probably make an excavation on a large scale

is
if
he could get a firman.
very rich and very generous
immense smns
to the poor,
He
he gives away
and keeps up a very
princely style of hospitality at Bom'iiabat.
At
special request of
the
McCraith,
hospital,
went
Mr. Hanson and Dr.
yesterday to
which, I must say,
nation occupying the
is
position
see
the British
a disgrace to any
which we hold at
282
present
is
in
the
intended
the
for
seamen from
This hospital at Smyi-na
East.
shijjs
exclusive
of
of
benefit
British
war and the merchant navy.
by dues levied on every British
It is supported
ship which arrives
The
port at Smyrna.
the
in
revenue was formerly administered by the Levant
Company, and was by them transferred

Government.
The hospital has remained
to
the
statu
quo ever since the breaking up of the Levant
Com-
pany.
It is placed in a miserable, dilapidated old
house,
the
ground-floor
flooded in bad weather.
of which
periodically
is
The rooms on the upper floor
are pictures of squalid misery, the plastering decayed
and
full
of holes, the walls dirty,
We
contrivances of any kind.
imprisoned in this Black-hole
"vvith
no modern
found three sailors
they were jolly goodhumoured fellows, said the bugs were " as big as
black currants,"
and that the bedsteads, though
constantly washed with hot water, were so old and
vermm
saturated with
that theu" crevices contained
" the essence of bugs."
In the holes and corners
were worm-eaten old chests, which
name
of the Levant
Company.
Opposite the British hospital

pital,
a perfect
bore the
stfll
is
the Dutch hos-
model of neatness and propriety,
with a garden kept in order and planted with trees,
and that
ah" of
contributes
so
comfort both inside and out which
much
to
the cure of
I next visited the Greek hospital, which

scale
and
in excellent order
small, but well organized.
time to see
lastly,
an
is
it
on a large
the Austrian,
The French
but I was assixred
invalid.
had not
was admh'able.
283
IN THE LEVANT.
Now,
may be some good
there
reason for the very
singular contrast which om' hospital presents
but
I cannot help thinking that, if the British Govern-
ment were
really
aware what a miserable place
it is,
they would take some more active steps to provide

a better.
It
is
no excuse to say that the English
hospital at Constantinople is worse
the bugs di'op
down
on the patients'
war we may want
fi'om the ceiling
In the course of this
faces.
and that there
a good hospital for our merchant sailors at Smyi-na,
and so we may as well get

the
present
establishment
it
is
At
ready at once.
much more
Tm-kish khan than the hospital of a
like
civilized people,
and yet we profess to exhibit to the Turks a model

to be followed in
aU things. ^'^
XXVI.
Calymxos, Noven^her
11, 1854.
After duly presenting my firman to the Pasha at

Ehodes, and receiving in exchange for it a mandate
addressed to the Turkish Governor and the Primates
of Calymnos, enjoining them to facilitate my operations in every way, I set sail in a caique for that
accompanied by an Italian
island,
Panni,
who was
cavass,
recently
smart young Albanian,
engaged
in
my
affections for the next six
ser-sace,
Signer
artist,
staying at Rhodes,
my
and by
whom
have
securing
his
months by a present of
a gold-laced jacket, with a promise of a
pair
of
284
silver-mounted pistols
He
expedition.
long
as
he behaves
vrell
condescends to cook for
are
"we
if
travelling,
in
this
me
as
though no Albanian
stoop to regular menial service in a household.
vfjll
Our stock of
VfSLS
tools
not extensive.
and implements
for excavation
four English
It consisted of
shovels and picks, thi'ee crowbars, two blocks, and
The caique had a cargo of wheat, which

made a very cool and comfortable bed to lie on.
At Rhodes we heard many stories of pupates off
Cape Crio so when I got to Cos, I asked the captain of the caique, a knowing old Greek mariner,
whether he thought we should be safer with a
a rope.
He
guard of Turkish cavasses.

confiding to
me
at the
same time the
money on board
himself had some

advice,
declined the
offer,
fact that
he
so I took his
and we completed the voyage without any
adventm'es.
On
Calyninos,
arriving at
we found
the inhabitants very Eussian in their sentiments,
and rather indisposed to welcome Frank visitors.

The news of the battle of the Alma, which we
brought with
us, did not contribute to their good-
humom*, and I was told privately that I had come

an inopportune moment, and that
at
it
would be
hopeless to attemjot excavations, as the land was

private property, and no one
all
my
digging in his
field.
I thought,
would be more prudent not

so
kept
the
Pasha's
in
m the
spent some days in copying
collecting coins.
therefore,
to hurry matters,
letter
established myself quietly
would consent
my
pocket,
to
it
and
and
upper town, where

inscriptions
and
285
IN THE LEVANT.
Every day the price of corn

approaclied
and the poorer
my
in
winter
being in want
classes,
of employment, began to agitate
as
rose,
favour
till
was formally invited by some of the

Greeks of the place to commence my excavaThe land being all private property, I had
at length I
chief
tions.
each case to
in
These
owner.
troublesome
make a bargain with a

were at
negotiations
l)ut I
different
first
very
succeeded in persuading several
me
small proprietors to let
dig their
little
plots of
ground, with the agreement, that for every tomb I
opened I was to pay a
price,
which
I at first fixed
to three dollars, but afterwards lowered, in conse-
quence of the unproductive results of many tombs.

I
commenced
my
operations in the middle of an
ancient cemetery, which
name
On
of
still
retains the
classical
o oa/AOf.
referring to Dr. Ross's
map
will
be seen that this cemetery
the
modern harbour, now
of Calymnos,^'**
it
situated between
is
called
Potliia,
on the
eastern coast, and Linaria on the west, aiad that
behind
is
it
a range of
mountains crossing the
island in a direction north-west
The cemetery of Damos

irregular
ground
slopes
is
the
sloping
mountain
a
small
extending to the western coast.
slopes, intervening
the plains
on
at the foot of this
immediately below these

fertile valley,
by south-east.
lies
and the barren
cemeteries.
Calyimios,
is
and
and
Such
between the cultivated land of

mountain-sides, were
very frequently selected by the Greeks as the

of their
The
site
called
sites
Damos,
at
a piece of rocky ground which evi-
286
TEAYELS AND DISCOVERIES
dently formed an ancient stone-quarry.

surface of the rock
In one place
is
Here the
cut into steps and grooves.
is
a monohthic base containing a
square chamber 9 feet 7 inches by 7 feet 8 inches,

entered by a doorway, the whole being cut out of
the solid rock.
Above the doorway, the rock
is
cut
into steps, in rude imitation of a pyi-amidal roof.
Near
it
another tomb, consisting of an under-
is
ground chamber cut out of the rock and roofed

over by two immense blocks, one of which has been
The chamber is 8 feet long by 4 feet

One of the blocks which cover it
7 inches wide.
measures 7 feet by 2 feet 2 inches wide, and is
removed.
Adjoining this quarry on
2 feet 5 inches thick.

the north
is
been opened.
field
where a number of graves have
They he
in clusters,
and are cut out
of the solid rock, which here crops up to the siirface.
This
field is
bounded on the north by a
ravine,
beyond which the land bears the singular name of

ApaTTsTrjg,
From
" the Runaway."
the quarry the district of
downwards
Uncjula
towards
direction north-west
is
Linaria,
of rock jutting
Damos
extends
forming a sort
of
out into the plain in
by south-east
on each side
a ravine.
On
this isolated
tongue of land are foimdations
of houses, and two Hellenic
cisterns,
cut out of
the solid rock, with steps in the sides, giving access

to the water at the bottom.
The ground
is
strewn
with fragments of potteiy and painted stucco.

the north side a staircase
down
into the iâvine below.
cut in
the
On
rock leads
287
IN THE LEVANT.
Tlie neck of this peninsula
quarry by an Hellenic wall,
which
remain.
still
It
is
Greek town once stood on
On
separated from the
is
this
rocky
site.
the land becomes
and slopes more gradually to the
less rocky,
The land here takes
its
of
evident that a small
Damos
the south of the
foundations
tlie
name
plain.
church
fi'om a small
dedicated to the Prophet Elias, but forms part of
Here, about the
the cemetery already described.
year 1842, a peasant called Janni Sconi found in

his vineyard a stone coffin or
so7ôs,
covered with a
marble slab so heavy that he could not

the aid
Calling in
On
it
alone.
of a neighboiu", he uncovered
the sows, which was
ments.
lift
full
of beautiful gold
orna-
the discovery of this great treasure,
the neighbour
who had
aided Janni Sconi to
lift
Janni Sconi presented
the stone claimed his share.
him with the magnificent
sum
rather less than a shilhng
on which the neighbour,
of five piasters, or
out of revenge, informed the Tm-kish Governor of the
The law of
discovery.
treasm-e-trove
put in force, and Janni Sconi
and was
everything,
was
had
presented with
money very much below,

amoimt to which he was
as
to
instantly
up
give
sum
of
he assured me, the
legally
entitled.
The
gold ornaments were sent to Constantinople, and
have since imfortunately been dispersed. The

of
finest
them were obtained from the Porte by the
Prussian Government.
According to information acqiiired at Calymnos
by Ross, the whole treasure consisted of the following objects
288
A
A
1.
2.
diadem of massive gold about 1^ in. wide.

necklace rictly ornamented, fi-om -which
hung two gold cornucopias suspended
3.
fi'om chains.
pair of fine gold earrings, the pendant of
which was formed by a winged
figure,
probably a
Cupid, holding in one hand a wine-jug, in the other
a dish.
The whole of these ornaments weighed
Venetian ducats, and were valued at only 2,000
42-|-
Tui'kish piasters, about 18.^'^
There were found with them in the sarcophagus a

silver coin of
Calymnos and a bronze mirror.
I commenced digging
in
the
part
of
Damos
which had anciently formed a quarry, and at the

end of the
all
first
of which
day came to three tombs of children,
had been previously opened and the
The next day I came to a much

larger tomb, rather more than four feet below the
surface.
This tomb was covered with a stone lid
The workmen, who are artists for
in two pieces.
contents broken.
this
kind of work, having a gTeat deal of practice
at Calymnos, first
removed every atom of earth
the lid of the tomb, taking care to stop up

holes to prevent the earth running
with
much
care and neatness,
in.
fiôm
all
They
the
then,
and not with the
clumsy impetuosity which English labourers would

have shown, hfted up one of the two stones which
formed the cover.
On
looking into
the
tomb,
first thing I saw was a jug of red pottery, the

mouth tmnied doT\niwards between the handle and
neck of the vase was a small earthenware lamp.
Taking out these two, we came to the feet and legs
the
of the skeleton.
We
then took
ofi"
the middle stone,
289
IN THE LEVA.NT.
and found a glass bowl of very elegant form, tiu'ned

over the pelvis, tlie mouth downwards higher up,
;
towards the head, was another earthenware jug,
and a small vase of the sort formerly
We then took
matories.
out the bones and the whole
of the earth of the skeleton

care,
found a
silver
always j^kiced
to
pay
his
in the
passage
called lachry-
coin,
and
lifting it
the
vauTôv,
mouth
which was
dead person,
of the
Charon's
in
with great
This
boat.
proved to be an unedited coin of Cnidus, with a

magistrate's
who
Mytilene,
that in
that
name.
The present Archbishop of
has been much
in
Macedonia, told me^
and remote part of the
uncivilized
Turkish empu'e the Greek peasants
custom of placing a
va.u'Kov
in the
still
retain the
mouth of the dead.
"Wishing to put an end to this relic of paganism, he

explained to them that the coin they used for the
purpose being a Turkish para, and being inscribed

with a quotation fi'om the Koran, Avas consequently
The
quite unfit to be placed in a Chi'istian tomb.^^"
was that of a woman the teeth were very

perfect, and as remarkable for whiteness and reguThe
larity as those of the Calymniotes of this day.
grave itself was a narrow bed, just large enough to
skidl
hold a body, very neatly cut in the rock.

After
we had
finished this tomb,
we dug on and
Here the head was

the two thighbetween
and
lay
towards the west,
bones. We therefore concluded that this liody had
came
to a second close by.
been in ancient times shifted fi'om

skeleton appears to be that of a
years of age.
We
man
about
found hardly anything

u
This
its place.
tlih'ty
in
the
290
tomb, and
tlie
workmen
said that the defunct
was
a shabby fellow not to have left a coin to pay Charon

vnth.
In the nest
field
to the south I found another
grave, containing similar
common
pottery and a bowl
Contiguous to
of thick well-preserved glass.
this,
on the south, was a grave lined with large square

tiles
with flanged edges, and covered with a stone.
Outside the
tiles
were two rows of deep cups, placed
one within the other, and lying horizontally on their

sides.
This grave contained
two coarse terra-cotta

silver fibulce of
many
vases,
all
broken,
a silver ring, two
reliefs,
very ordinary workmanship, a large
calcedony polished for engraving, and a copper coin

as naulon.
Inside this grave were layers of shingle.
I found in this field a
whole cluster of graves, the
bearings of which evidently followed no fixed rules.
In one of them were a bronze arrow-head and a
number of broad-headed
iron nails, which
may have
served to hold together a wooden coffin or casket.

I
fotmd one instance of the same mode of interment
in
large earthen jars, which I
had noticed
in the
Troad two years ago. (See ante, p. 135.)

The contents of the graves up to this date are
The pottery
not very promising.
and unvarnished.
late black ware,
in relief.
is
generally coarse
In one grave I foimd a cup of
ornamented with a Dionysiac subject
This kind of ware
is
seldom to be met
with, and belongs to the Macedonian period.
In spite of the small success up to this date, I find

great pleasure in the kind of
I
remain in the fresh
air all
life
am
leading here.
day long, enjoying the
291
IN THE LEVA^JT.
which stretches away towards Asty-
beautiful view
palfea
the
and Carpathos, and watching the progress of
workmen
me
to
My
at every stroke.
in the middle of the day,
down under
food
is
brought
when we
all sit
the shade of the rock and eat rustic
fare.
XXVII.
Calymxos, December
The
first
sheet of this letter has
8,
1854.
been at the
The
caique in which it Avas despatched to Rhodes was
capsized by the carelessness of the captain, and sank.
The Calymuiote divers, notwithstanding the coldbottom of the sea
iu
several fathoms water.
ness of the weather, contrived to descend several

fathoms, fasten ropes to the caique, and di'ag
it
into
The inhabitants of Calymnos, like

those of Syme, Chalce, and other small islands near
shallow water.
Rhodes, are celebrated as divers, and spend the
whole summer in fishing up sponges on the coasts

of Asia
little
Minor and
fleet
manned by
population.
of caiques
The
into partnership.
money
In the month of
sets
sail
from
May
Calymnos,
the greater part of the able-bodied male
very considerable.
the
Syria.
profits
of the sponge-fishery are
The divers in each caique enter

They are generally poor men, and
for rigging out the caiques
and
maintenance of the crew during their voyage
for the
is
lent
them by the richer Calymniotes, who stay at

home and trade in sponges. On the retm-n of the
to
u 2
292
who made
caiques in the autumn, the merchants
the
advances to the divers reimburse themselves by purchasing the produce of the season at a price very
much below the real value

merchant then sends
of each cargo.
his sponges
The sponge-
dhect to Smyi'na,
Syra, or Trieste, where they are repurchased by the
who supply
when the sponge
great traders
and thus,
arrives iu England, the
through so many hands,
price, after passing
much
Bm'opean market;
the
very
is
But the cause of the dearness of

sponges is the great risk of life and capital incurred
in the first instance.
The diver descends, holdmg
a flat stone in both hands, to assist hun in sinking,
raised.
on which stone a cord
is
Wlien he gets
fastened.
to the bottom, he puts this flat stone
and walks about

in a net
under his arm,
in search of sponges, putting
hung round
his neck, as fast as
them
he uproots
them he then imlla the cord as a signal, and is

drawn up again.
It is said that the best divers
can descend to a depth of thirty fathoms, and that
;
they can remain under water for as long a period

as three minutes.^^^
From
made,
appear
cut
does
it
off"
not
inquu-ies
that
which
have
they are
often
by sharks, though these monsters are not
unfrequent in the southern part of the Ai'chipelago.

It is jDossible that the rapid descent of the diver
scare
away
on the
terrible
this fish,
surface.
sensation
is
sea.
generally seizes his prey
Caljinniote told
he had ever
finding himself close
bottom of the
who
may
to an
me
that the
immense
Under the
most
experienced was
fish
at the
root of the sponge
a parasitical substance of a caustic natm-e.
This
often bursts
when
sponge
tlie
is
the diver's neck, and the liquid
deep ulcers in his
293
THE LEVANT.
IN
suspended round
contains causes
it
flesh.
Before the sponges are exported, they are cleaned
and spread out
many
in fields to
may be
acres of sponges
seen at Calymnos thus
Part of the process of preparing them for
exposed.
the European market
that, the
was the
the
is
The reason assigned

it
In fine weather,
dry.
for
filling
vnth. sand.
singular practice
this
sponges being
them
always
is
by weight,
sold
practice fraudulently to increase the weight
of the fine sponges by surreptitiously introducing a

little
sand.
To meet this
fi'aud,
requu'e aU sponges to be
as they can hold
filled
may be
calculated, this
always deducted from the weight.
serves as a
much sand
with as
and as the quantity which each
sponge can contain

is
the sponge-merchants
common
amount
The sand thus
measm-e.
Rather more than half the sponges from Cal}Tnnos

are
exported to
Smpnia, and
Trieste,
and Marseilles.
export
is
reckoned

about
at
fish for
two
millions
The number
piasters (about 16,949).
which go to
the rest to Syra,
sponges
is
of
of caiques
about two hundred,
with a tonnage of from one to three tons each.

Latterly
rich
and
enterprising
merchant, by name Antonio

of 200 tons, which he
the more
distant
sends out every year to
sponge - fisheries
number of caiques and
Calymniote
Maille, has built a ship
their crews.
laden with
On
arriving at
their destination, the caiques are lavmched

ship,
which remains there
till
from the
the fishing-season
is
294
over, and
time
carries tliem back.
thus effected, and
is
tlie
On
course mucli diminislied.
great saving of
risk of shipwreck of
the coast of Crete the
Calymniotes have to pay 600 piasters each for per-
On
mission to fish in the Cretan waters.

coast this permission
is
the Syi'ian
granted on payment of fi'om
100 to 140 piasters each caique.
The
finest
and best-formed sponges
pelago are found round
near Calymnos.
in the Archi-
the island of Astypaleea,
The sponges of the northern part
of the Archipelago are
fine,
but not well -formed;
above the Dardanelles, sponges are found in small
bad quality. The Cretan sponges

much esteemed for their fineness those of Syria,
known in the trade as Paracham, for their forms.
The sponges of Bai^Dary are diflicult to cleanse, and
quantities but of
are
Professor Forbes, in his
are therefore not durable.
accoimt of the Archipelago sponges,^^" quotes Aristotle as stating that the
coasts which
best kinds
grow on the
become suddenly deep, and that the
superior fineness of texture in these deep-sea kinds
may be
attributed to
the
greater uniformity
temperature of the water in such places.

Calymniotes do not agree to
sjionges
this.
of
The
They think that
grow best where the bottom
is
level,
but
do not believe that they are affected by the change

of temperature in shallow water.
Where, however,
they are subject to the action of the waves, this
movement must affect their shape and growth.

The fine sponge without sand is worth at
pre-
sent from 100 to 260 piasters the oke (a weight
equal to two pounds and three-quarters avou'dupois)
295
IN THE LEVANT,
the ordinary siDonge fiôm 15 to 50 piasters
tlie
oke.
Before the Russian war, the fine sponge was worth
from 70 to 80 piasters the oke, and the coarser

sponges exported by the island of Syme is reckoned
The small
at about 2,500,000 piasters (21,186).
from 10 to 25.
sort
of Chalce
island
500,000 to 600,000
jDiasters
The
Calymniotes
is
call
from
(4,237 to 5,084),
and the island of Castel Rosso rather

Calymno.
of
the value
exports to
the
less.
sponge
frutta
di
Their island, the greater part of which
very barren and does not produce more than
one-thfrd of the corn
it
Greek revolution, been
consumes, has, since the

increasing
constantly
in
wealth and population from the development of the
sponge trade.
is
The present niunber of
reckoned at about ten thousand, of
half are males.
inhabitants
whom
The roving and varied
life
about
of the
sponge-divers, and the address and courage required

in their calling, render them very much more intelli-
gent than the ordinary peasantry of the Sporades.
On
the other hand, the large profits of the sponge
good years rather lead them to despise

agiîcultm-al pursuits, and they leave much of the
fishery in
operations of husbandry to be performed by
women,
passing thefr time in winter in the cafes, where
smoking over a pan of charcoal, and recounting the singular adventures which they have
they
sit
met with
in the course of their rambles,
and which
give an Odyssean character to the lives of
them.
Most of the
seafaring
men
pocketful of Greek coins after the
some of
bring back a
summer
cruise.
296
TBAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
and, fi'om the variety of remote and inifi'equented

places wliicli they visit, they often pick up very
and curious specimens.
rare
place in
the Archipelago to
There
is
no better
buy coins than
this
island immediately after the retiu'n of the spongedivers in the autumn.
I boug-ht
of Cilicia which was
an
interestino- coin
found in a cargo of wheat
fi'om Tarsus.
In the old times, when the Archipelago swarmed

with pirates, the Calymniotes dwelt in a
city
fortified
perched on the top of a steep rock, as the
inhabitants of AstjâliBa do to
tliis
day.
were perpetually stationed on the
custom
commemorated
is cioriously
give a
approach of pirates.
in case of the
sig-ual
Sentinels
hills to
in the
This
names of
two of the highest mountains in the

which
is
called Vigil,
island, one of
" the watch," the other Mero
Vigli {riiJ.sôîy\i), " the day-watch."
Since the Greek war of independence, the greater

security of the Archipelago has led the Calj-mniotes
to desert their old fortified city,
one a
town
little
is
down
lower
and to build a new
the mountain-side.
on the neck of land half-way
situated
between Linaria and the harboiu' of Pothia.

this latter place a
will
This
second town
is
At
gTOwing up, which
probably some day be the capital.
The houses
outside,
and
imiformity of
are
very
studiously whitewashed
fi'om
their
extreme
size,
regTilarity
look, at a distance,
and
like those
cubes of chalk which are given to beginners to

di'aw from.
Inside,
missed the neatness and
comparative cleanliness of the Rhodian peasant's
297
IN THE LEVANT.
Generally
house.
have more room for the stowage
stories, in order to
of
sponges.
man
lays
up
house in Calymnos has two
tlie
Each
There are hardly any shops.
own
his
stock of provisions for the
winter, so that a stranger has difficulty in existing

at
some
unless he has
all,
As
friend to pm'vey for him.
few
fi'om the scarcity of fodder there are very
beasts of bm-den,
most of the
necessai'ies of life hn-
ported into the island, such as corn,
fuel,
wine, and
even tunber and stone for building, have to be carried
on the backs of men, and oftener of women and

children, fi'om the port to the higher town, a dis-
tance of about two miles.
There are no fountains
town of Calymnos the wells are very deep,

and at some distance fi'om the town. AVhen the
in the
women descend
supply of water gets low, the

the bottom of the wells,
and
feet
in
the
crevices
inserting
to
hands
then'
between the stones on
each side with great dexterity.
Nothing AvoiUd
wheeled vehicles
very far
fi*om
easier than to
l)e
make a road
but the Calymniotes are
this
of
stage
for
still
The
civilization.
constant labour of transport presses very heavily
on the women, who are puny and undersized.

are usually married
at
the
sometimes as early as twelve.

to see a
young ghl,
herself a
They
age of fourteen, and

It is a
mere
common
sight
child, tottering
under the weight of a sack of flour or load of wood,
imder which, slung
in a kind of scarf, is a hambino
so tightly swathed as to be no
cylinder.
Many
of these
more than a
children
die
flexible
ofl"
when
they are very young, fi'om imperfect nourishment,
298
and general neglect.
dirt,
Those -who are strong
enough to pass the ordeal of so rough a nurture are

left
to shift for themselves at a very early age,
and
very soon take to the water like young spaniels.
On my
I
to
first visit
saw four young
Calymnos
in the
summer
time,
ladies of about seven years old
row on the sand, drying theii' bodies in

midday sun, after having taken a plunge
lying in a
the fierce
in the sea.
The women of Calymnos, from always remaining
much
in the island, are very
men.
to
Their dialect
understand;
schools
is
very barbarous and
is
but
than the
less civihzed
the
since
difficult
establishment
gradually disappearing.
of
Their dress re-
sembles that of the Rhodian peasantry;
but the
Smyrna and Syra has introduced

the printed cottons instead of the more picturesque
homespun garments, and the soimd of the loom is
direct trade with
seldom heard in Calymnos.
Much
in
of their time
is
spent in pounding barley
a mortar with an iron sharp-pointed
which gradually removes the external husk.

process
is
This
may be
ex-
oiproc TpKrxoTravKTTog, in
the
called xoTravl^siv
plained the expression,
pestle,
and thus
Battle of the Frogs and Mice. "With the flour of this
barley an excellent biscuit

its
crispness for
is
made, which retains
many months, and
is
therefore
very good provision for the Calymniote diver in his

voyages.
Their industry is great: I find them excellent as an

auxiliary force in
in
my diggings. The
which they pass their days
is
monotonous
toil
occasionally relieved
299
IN THE LEVANT.
by the excitement of a
deatli-bed, wliicla is regarded
as a public spectacle, wliere
present
who can elbow
They seem
to like
it
all
way into the house.

as much as a play.
then'
nearly
is
the punishment of
is,
by the custom of
Another occasional excitement

a
thief,
who, when detected,
have a right to be
mad dog through
the country, hunted hke a
town, the whole population following him
full
the
cry up
and down the steep nan-ow streets till they are

weary of the sport.
The pimishment of a four-
saw a man
shoot three pigs in his field, and, inquiring what this
meant, was told that, by the custom of the country,
footed thief
is
One day
also singular.
a pig found trespassing
world, without judge
might be put out of the
or jury, by the
person on
By the same
donkey may be cut off.
whose land he had strayed.

ear of an offending
ride,
one
XXTIII.
Caltmnos, Febniary,
Since
my
last report
18-55.
on the diggings, I have cou-
tinued to explore cemeteries
and other
localities,
with very chequered fortune.

After a great deal of trouble, I succeeded in obtaining permission from Janni Sconi to dig over the
very
field
years ago.
where he had found the treasure some

I very
soon came to graves, but not of a
very interesting character.
The
outline of the grave
was only marked by two or three rough
slabs placed
300
over
The
it.
interior
was always
full
of earth, in
which small vases were imbedded.

In one of these graves, evidently that of a female,
was a small marble circular box, with traces of

colour outside.
Such boxes, called pyxides, formed
part of the toilet apparatus of the ladies of antiquity,
and jirobably contained imguents or other cosmetics.

In another grave was a lamp
jDainted the
the only vase with
black ground
it
which
on which was
head of Leda with the swan, in red on a
I found
in
Calymnos.
figures painted
on
This grave also
contained a large two-handled cup of plain black

ware, a lamp, and three vases with covers.
when
soil,
In the
were some beads of a
sifted,
necklace, a silver fihitJa of very ordinary
silver
workman-
and some small pearls from a necklace.
ship,
All these objects were found about 2 feet below the

I opened seven other graves in this field,
surface.
several of which were very small, as if intended for
In one of these was a terra-cotta
children.
relief,
representing two female figm-es bidding adieu to
The material and execution of this

relief were very ordinary.
It was so imbedded in
the soil that even the fine hands of my workmen
each other.
foiled to detach
Such
it,
except in very small fragments.
terra-cottas
are
not
uncommon
tombs. I found no gold in Janni Seoul's
in
Greek
field,
except
one small spangle, though the Greeks expected that
much
treasiu"e
would reward our diggings,
in the
course of which a curious domestic scene took place

in
my
The
presence between Janni Sconi and his wife.
lady,
who
conceived that her consent ought to
301
IN THE LEVANT.
have been asked before we entered the

over a grave which
ciu'sed
we were
her husband
and
All her
up; and
is
it
own
field,
stood
to open,
and
party
very
om^ whole
making mysterious
heartily,
heads.
just
gomg
gesticidations over our
relations attended to
probable that,
if
back her
we had foimd any-
thing worth carrying away, a scramble would have

Several other Greeks
taken place over the grave.

also
made
their appearance, claiming a part owner-
ship in the
and marking out the
field,
little
which they claimed with heaps of stones.
plots
Great was
them and Janni Sconi as to

the question of boundaries.
The fields in Calymnos
often contain within the same enclosmê plots of
ground belonging to several owners, and this
the htigation between
division of property sometimes extends even to the

olive
and
fig-trees.
Finding that the gi'aves in Janni Scorn's

not repay examination, I soon drew
to explore the fields
equally
all
unproductive.
round
I
ofi"
this spot,
then
field
did
my worlonen
which were
retm'ned
the Damos, and tried a
the
to
rocky part
of
joining the
tongue of land on which an ancient
town evidently once
ad-
field
stood.
Across the neck of this tongue of land was a

of
waU
ravines.
runnino- north
line
and south between the two
This wall I traced continuously by exca-
vation for about 165
feet.
It is about 7 feet wide,
with a casing of isodomous masonry on each

the centre being
filled
up with rubble.
The
side,
largest
of the blocks were about 4 feet by 2 feet 5 inches.
The stone appears
to have been cut from the adjoin-
302
ing quarry.
At
tlie
distance of about 53 feet fi'om
southern extremity, the wall throws out a square
its
tower, probably intended to protect a gateway.
On
the east side of this
waU
found the ancient
sm^face of the soil at depths varying fi'om 3 to 8 feet.
fragments of red
This surface was strewn with

coarse pottery,
among which
I fovrnd three handles
of Rhodian diotce inscribed with the

gistrates,
three
gi'otesque
names of ma-
heads in terra-cotta, a
bronze fish-hook, part of a terra-cotta figure, and

portions of stucco from ancient houses.
About 100 yards
east of the
waU
is
a natm-al
platform of rock, in which I foimd several tombs
very neatly cut in the bed of the rock, and closed by

monolithic lids shghtly ridged.
On
the northern side of the same rocky platform
I observed
a square opening hke a doorway cut
through the rock, at the edge of the platform.
The
in
sides of this opening
were hned with cement
which were fragments of tiles.
At the end
of this
opening was a wall nearly concealed by earth which
had accumulated against

I
it.
On removing
this wall,
found a small natm-al cavern, at the bottom of
which were three graves side by
The contents had

the
waU
side.
evidently been disturbed and
at the entrance carefully replaced.
earth, inside the cavern,
In the
were fragments of bones, of
ordinary red pottery, and of glass vessels, two small

portions of ornaments of beaten gold, and a glass
bead.
In one grave were two copper coins, one of
which proved to be an unedited coin of Cos, struck

in the reign of Caracalla.
303
IN THE LEVANT.
Ross
states
another
that
similar
cavern was
discovered in Calymnos some years ago, about half

a mile to the west of
one opened by me.
the
Immediately to the east of
this field
separated fi'om the tract called
ApaTre'ri]?
another,
is
by a
ravine,
where I found a great number of graves cut in the

rock, but containing
no object of value.
which my excavations
was about half a mile
the niunber of giâves opened was about forty.
The pottery foimd in these graves was aU of a
The
entire strip of land over
had extended up to
late date,
this date
probably fi'om B.C. 330 to B.C. 150, or
The forms were deficient in eleo-ance. The

ware was for the most part black varnished ware,
red varnished ware, and unpainted diâb ware. The
later.
black varnish, as
had
is
often the case in the later ware,
Bones were
not resisted the action of wet.
seldom found; many of the graves contained the

vau7\.ov,
The accumvdation
or copper coin.
of soil
over the grave was generally fi'om three to four
a few
inches distant from the side of the gTave.
These were doubtless
came
in
feet.
lamp or cup was constantly found in the soU,
to bring
left
there by relations
to the tomb,
offerings
as
who
we
see
those vase-pictures which represent Heroa, or
architectm'al tombs, on the steps of
which rows of
cups or vases are placed by female figures offering

libations.
To
make
this
day the Greek peasant does not forget to
periodical libations
diggings on
and
as I return
Satm'day evenings here,
meet a procession of peasant women on
from
my
generally
then-
way
to
304
TRAVELS
smnging
the cliiu'cliyard,
and bearing
replenish
A:jfD
DISCOYEEIES
censers
fiill
of incense,
in tHeir liands a small tin can of
the lamps, which they keep
oU
to
constantly
bm'niag in the tombs.
Temple of
Calymnos, I had
I next explored part of the site of the
Apollo, where, on
&st
arriving at
been unable to obtain the

site is at
Chi'istos,
riffht
of dio-Gnna.
This
present occupied by the small church of
which
measure out of
built in a great
is
the ruins of the Temple of Apollo.
It is situated
about half-way between the harbom-s of Pothia and
on a kind of neck of land shut in by hiUs on
Linaria,
each
side,
and connecting the two
valleys of Pothia
and Linaria.
ground plan of the church of Chi'istos may be

ii. p. 96.
The apse at the east end
seen in Eoss,
is
entu-ely built of Hellenic blocks.
In the space
in front of the west door a Corinthian
column
is
the south side of the church
is
the smaller church called Hypakoe, attached to
it
still
like
standing.
an
On
aisle.
commenced digging
in a field
adjoining the
church on the west, which had been partially explored by the proprietor about two years ago, on
which occasion he found two cubes of marble containing decrees for the manumission of slaves, and
the
name
of an artist from
Crete previously un-
known.
Making an excavation
in
front
of the church
within about 12 feet of the western wall, I found that
formerly
it
direction, the
had
been continued
pavement
farther
stiU remaining.
in
this
This was
IN
original
from
slabs of marble
composed of large square

laid
305
THE LEVANT.
tlie
pavement of the temple, wHcli had been

irregularly; the chasms
down a second time
where
slabs
were missing having been
up by
filled
tessellated pavement.
Immediately to the front of the single column

still
standing, are two large blocks.
measm'ed 3
by 2
feet 1 inch
One
feet 5 inches
them
of
by 1 foot
9 inches, and was inscribed with the
name N ikokles
and below,
names, Nikokles
in smaller characters, the
and Ai'atogenes. Side by side with this was a second

These
block, extending to the base of the column.
seemed, from their size and position, to be a portion

southern stylobate,
of the
original place,
this.
Ross
though
still
do not
remaining in
feel
its
quite sure of
states that at the time of his visit there
were persons
Calymnos who remembered eight of
in
these columns in a row.
Continuing the
line of the
western wall of the
church, at the distance of 6 feet 10 inches to the
south of the supposed stylobate, was a parallel row of

blocks, one of
which seemed to be the threshold-
stone of a doorway 3 feet 5 inches in width.
found
no trace of stylobate or other foundations on the

north
side, as the propi-ietor of the field
here previously to
my
visit.
foundations on this part of the
had dug
In the Byzantine
site I
found a
wi'ist
and part of a hand, part of an arm, and fragments

of tAVO feet of a colossal figm-e in white marble,
and
in
a good
style
of
sculpture.
improbable that they formed part of

of Apollo himself.
It
the
is
not
statue
306
A little
I
to the south of the chiu'ch of
found
the
soil,
five
very well-preserved
Hypakoe
ddce lying
in
one of which was covered with a deeply-cut
on both
inscription
sides, relating to a civil action
between the people of Calymnos and the heirs of a

certain Cleomedes,
of Cos.
who appear to have been
citizens
This suit seems to have been referred to a
tribmial at Cnidus.
On one
mode
side of the stele the
of procedure
in the trial is set forth, with the form of the oath

to be administered to the Dikasts
on the other side
and the witnesses
the sentence, which
is
by a court of Dikasts.
the plaintiff were 78
is
decided
The number of votes
for
for the defendant 120.
In case any of the "witnesses residing either in
Cos or Calymnos should be prevented

ing in
coiu't, it is
fi-om appear-
ordered that then* depositions be
taken in either island before the magistrates, called

Prostatce, copies of which, attested
by the
seal of the
State as affidavits, are to be then transmitted to the
adversary in the
pleadings
is
suit.
The length
measured by the
of time for the
Jdcpsi/dra, iror) yjtaq
for the first pleading each party is allowed eighteen
of
the
ten.
measures
Such a
trial
called
was
pô's?
for
the second,
technically called
S/xrj Trpoj
Beyond this field to the west, the groimd slopes

down towards two weUs. I thought it probable
that, as the diâinage from the temple must have
been carried down this decli\'ity, some small relics
and votive ofierings would be found in the soil
here.
307
IN THE LEVANT.
was not altogether disappointed in

feet below the surface I came
ancient paved road, which had led
the wells to the temple.

the
pavement
this hope.
upon an
evidently from
few
removed every stone of
and thus found a great
carefiilly,
numbei- of Greek copper coins,
were from distant places
which
several of
such as Miletus, Sigeum
in tlie Troad, Macedonia.
I also found a bronze
netting-needle and other small objects in the same
and such a number of bronze arrow-heads

me almost to suppose that a shower
of arrows had fallen here.
The points of some of
material,
as
to lead
them were blunted.
Along the
sides of the road
were traces of an ancient water-coiirse, in the bed

of which I found two or three interesting terracotta
reliefs
tooth of a horse,
which
it
in bronze
up
higher
and,
a colossal
thumb
had evidently been votive
in
loop,
of
tress
marble
objects
the
slope,
bound with a bronze
had been suspended

;
the
all
offered
by
hair
these
in
the
temple.
In the upper part of the

I
field,
nearer the temple,
found a few fi-agments of sculptm'e in white
marble
an archaic male head in the ^ginetan
style, greatly
defaced
draped figure
and the
part of a thigh, fi'om a male

toi'so
perhaps a Venus, tying her
Here
small
also
of a female statuette,
sandal.^^'
was a stone forming the angle of a
pediment,
witli
dentils
coarsely
executed,
(See the cut, infra.)
At
the top of this field and on the south side of
the temple I came upon the angle of an Hellenic
X 2
308
Within the walls
building of isodomous masonry.

there was no pavement, and
found no antiquities
except a large ball of lead, perhaps from an ancient

steelyard.
Length on
In the
field to
F H,
2,
feet 6 inches.
the south of the chm^ch of Hy]jakoe,
at the distance of 13 feet 8 inches
from the wall of that
church, I found Hellenic foundations running from
N.W.
to S.B. at a depth of
the surface.
On
from 7
feet to 8 feet
laying these bare, I discovered three
chambers arranged as in the annexed plan.

space marked by the walls
rough stones, as
It
44
was 12
feet
below
if it
ABCD
The
was paved with
had formed an outer passage.
feet wide,
how much
and we traced
further in
it
this
to the
N.W.
direction
it
On removing the
stones of the pavement carefully, we found in the
interstices many Greek coins, bronze arrow-heads,
ran could not be ascertained.
glass
astragali,
or
knuckle-bones,
small
glass
counters of different colours, bone hair-pins, and

other small objects such as might natm-ally have
been dropped there from time to time.
At F
found under the pavement a Greek sword-
IN
309
THE LEVANT.
handle of bronze in the form of a gryphon's head.
The
sockets for the eyes Avere empty, and probably
contained some vitreous composition.

belongs to a good
The
ai'ea
period.
of the smaller chamber
10 inches by 11
feet
2 inches;
composed of rough stones

sage, but
was
raised above
like that of the
it
its
was
the hinge and
Gr
the long chamber to the S.W.
apse
was
long pas-
At
10 inches.
it
14 feet
window about 6 inches wide.

chamber, marked H, branches out fi'om
the bolt, and near

third
E was
the pavement
a doorway with the stone sockets for
The
This bronze
length, the apse
It terminates in
included,
7 inches; its width 14 feet 8 inches.
The
is
an
16 feet
semicircidar
end, and one side of the chamber, were paved with

large squared blocks very firmly fitted together
on
removing which, I found a second pavement of

similar blocks.
Between the
interstices
of the upper
pavement
310
"were several copper coins, arrow-heads,
Beyond
astragali.
this
and glass
chamber are foundations of
other Hellenic walls stretching to the S.W. fi'om
The
These
IK.
the angle
was unable
to
explore.
largest of the blocks which formed these courses
measured 3
feet
10 inches by 1 foot 8 inches.
The foundations I have here described were in

the same line as the angle of Hellenic waU which I
had found to the "W. of the temple, and probably
formed part of the same series of buildings. "We
know
that within the precinct of an ancient temple
were often buildings
for various purposes, such as
treasuries to contain votive objects, houses
where
who
visited
the priests dwelt, and where strangers
the temple might be lodged.""
Temple of Apollo,
an inscription,
it is
if I
In the case of the
certain, fiôm the evidence of
have rightly deciphered
it,
that
a theatre stood within the precinct of the temenos.
This inscription records a grant of land decreed
by the Senate and People of Calymnos to a public

benefactor.
The land is gTanted by the State to
Aratokintos, the son of Aristias, to enable
build in
benefit,
it,
at his
own expense and
him
a prosceniimi and Scene, and to surround
the temenos, or sacred precinct, with a wall.

line
to
for the public
The
which mentions that the theatre stood within
the precinct
that
my
mitted;
of
the temple
reading of
but
it
is
discovery which I
it
is
may not be
confirmed
made
so nearly illegible
generally ad-
by a very curious
in the com-se of
examining
the church of Christos.
At
the end of the decree, the form of the dedi-
311
IN THE LEVANT.
catory inscription to be placed on the proscenium

prescribed to be as follows
is
'AparoxptTog 'Apio-r/a
Tv (Txavav xai ro irpotrxaviov (rTS(âva(poprj(rag 'AttoAXfoi/i,
"
Ai-atoki'itos,
Stephanephoros,
the
son
of
Aristias,
being
Apollo the Scene
[dedicates] to
and the Proscenium."
Now
a curious coincidence that
is
it
doorway of the church

on which
architrave
characters
over the
at Christos is a fragment of
is
inscribed
in
majuscrde
NA.. PHZAZAnOAA...
was noticed by Ross, who
remarks that it was probably part of a dedication
inscribed on some monument in the vestibule of
the Temple of Apollo. With the aid of the decree
relating to Aratokritos, it is obvious that the words
fragment
This
in the
fragment must be restored
'A7roXX[Jv]
and
the architrave of
formed part of
(rT<pa]va\_(ô']pT^(ras
there can liarclhj he
which
the.
tJds
a<
doubt that
a remnant actually
is
proscenimn dedicated hj Arato-
hitos.
It
is
possible that further excavation to the soi;th
of the church of Christos would bring to light
some
trace of the theatre mentioned in the inscription,
with which the Hellenic foundations explored by
me may
be connected.
inscription,
cemetery.
letters
copying
it
was
As
were in
it
it
l)uilt
Wlien I
into a
tomb
first
saw
in the
this
modern
was inserted upside down, the

some places
was a very
painful
and occupied me several
nearly effaced,
the
and tedious process,
days.''^"
312
and discoveries
tba\t;ls
To the
and S.E. of the temple
east
two
of
foundations
which had been
large
I found the
Byzantine monasteries,
Some
built close to' the church.
time in the Middle Ages they must
have been
destroyed; and afterwards the deposit of alluvial

soil
from the hiUs completely obliterated
of
their
the
walls.
In
these
about them, I found
soil
all
traces
and
foundations,
many fragments
in
of
Greek inscriptions which had been broken up and

laid like tiles in the
The
considerable
masonry
of brealdng
laboiu'
;
to give
up these
and, as one of
my
it
Greek workmen
observed, with Homeric simplicity, the
mohtion required " a brazen
Some
man
more bond.
was very
walls
work of
de-
with iron hands."
fragments of statues of a good time
small
were intermixed with the rubble of these walls
and
in the soil of the field I foimd a small marble
term with a Satyric head, the only object in the

shape of statuary which had escaped the iconoclastic
of the
zeal
monks
of Calymnos.
In the
dug up
several fragments of vases with red figures on a
black ground, of the best period of fictile art, and
course of the excavations in this
field,
very superior in fabric to any which I found in

In the foundations of the monasteries
the tombs.
were many
coins,
and a few bronze implements of
the Byzantine period.
While
was giâduaUy forming a
inscriptions fi'om these excavations, I
my
employed
all
leisure time in copying the inscriptions inserted
in the walls
of
collection of
of the various churches in the
Calymnos and the neighbourhood.
town
Nearly
all
313
IN THE LEVANT.
of these originally belonged to
spending
After
much time
Temple of Apollo.
tlie
in
these
deciphering
inscriptions, I find that there were in aU sixty-four
Of
senate and people of Calymnos.
made by the
decrees
these decrees, nineteen grant the politela, or
citizenship, to foreigners, for services
rendered to
the people of Calymnos; eleven grant
i\\e
to foreigners
similar reasons
for
either to jôliteia or froxcnia, but
;proxenia
thirteen relate
from their mu-
condition then import cannot be precisely
tilated
ascertained
two
relate
to
judicial
proceedings
two bestow honours on phytwo confer crowns

and
two honours for services in war
sicians
;
one
an
mere
honorary grant
fi'agments, of
of
land.
Eleven
are
which the subjects cannot be
ascertained.
these inscriptions probably belong
All
period between
B.C.
350 and B.C. 250.
to
the
In one
them occurs the mention of a king Antigonos,

who is most j^robably Antigonos, the father of
of
Demetrios Poliorketes.
It is interesting to observe, that in this list the
more
right
The
of
fidl
numerous
citizenship was bestowed very liberally by the Asiatic
and it is probable that the small and rocky
cities
gi'ants of 2)oliteia, or fiiU citizenship, are far
than those of proxenia.
Calymnos was very glad to increase its

Judging from
population through such means.
island of
would seem that such grants of

2JoKteia were very rarely made by the cities of
Greece Proper, though the more restricted rights
Among
of progenia were very generally given.
inscriptions,
it
314
was a list of citizens

and metoikoi, contributors to some tax.
One of the honorary decrees confers a crown for
services rendered in a maritime engagement oif
the island of Cos, between the Calymnians and the
tlie
inscriptions
copied,
These hostihties
people of Hierapytna in Crete.
probably took place about the 2nd century B.C.,
when the Ai'chipelago was much
infested
by
pirates.
Besides the inscriptions of the Macedonian period
number which may obviously be referred to the time when Calymnos formed
part of the Koman empire.
The earUest of these
was a dedication to Apollo by Pubhus Servilius
Isauricus, when Consul, by which the date of this
already enumerated, were a
inscription is thus fixed to B.C. 79.
This I dug up
among
Another dedi-
the Byzantine foundations.
catory inscription by the same ServiKus
is built
into
the western wall of the church of Christos.
There were of the
Roman
period several other
dedicatory inscriptions, one of which has been the
base of a statue of Cahgiila, and twenty-five records

of the manumission of slaves, a rare and cm'ious
class
of
docimients.
Some
were dug up in a garden
of
this
latter
called Blyko,
class
near the
harbom' of Pothia, amid the ruins of an old Greek

church, and were noticed by
me
in
my
visit in
The magistrates whose names appear
at the
1853.
head
of the decrees of the Macedonian period are always
the prostatm.
In the manumissions, the Eponymous
Calymnos
magistrate of
title
the Steplianeplioros, a
many Asiatic cities. In the grants

we get the names of several Demi, or
adopted in
of citizenship,
is
315
IN THE LEVANT.
burgs and tribes (Phjlw), to whicli the neTv citizens
were assigned by
Demes
tween
is
Among
lot.
the names of the

The resemblance be-
that of Pothoi.
is
this
name and
curious.
am
that of the harboiu' Pothia
assiu'ed that in the small island
of Telendos, lying off Calymnos,
a place called
is
Potha.
The
list
which
have here given of inscriptions,
and which does not include

will serve to give
all
the fi'aginents found,
some idea of the
rich collection of
and municipal records which must have
historical
once existed in the Temple of Apollo.

that, tUl the time
of Ross's
visit,
It is ciunous
hardly any in-
Calymnos were known to exist.

The excavations on this site show very clearly
what has been the fate of the greater part of the
Greek temples in the AiThipelago. The scidptures
scriiDtions of
must have been
in marble
at a very early period
broken up hj the Iconoclasts, and the fi'agments

built
the
into
into lime
walls
of
monasteries,
while the works
in
or
bronze or
made
more
down and probably

Byzantine money at Constantinople.
precious materials were melted
converted into
The
inscriptions
being
generally
on thin
slabs
very serviceable in masonry, have not been so ruthlessly destroyed as the statues,
will
and many probably
be found in the walls and pavement of ruined
monasteries.
At a
place called Argos, near the upper
Calymnos, are two portions of a

in relief,
Avhich,
doubtless,
Temple of Apollo,
One
frieze of
town of
gryphons,
once ornamented the
of these fiâgments
was
316
church caUed Kyria,
inserted in the wall of the
the
other in that of the church
The
sculpture,
coarse and
which
covered with whitewash,
is
In the
late.
Avail
is
of the church Kyria
a relief representing a funeral
is
of St. George.
feast,
and in the
pavement the fragment of a decree.
Between the port and the upper

which stands on a height a
httle
toA\ni is a castle,
way
and
inland,
In one of the walls
called TO TTspa xa.(TTôv.
is
is
an
escutcheon with the arms of the Grand Master, John
de
Lastic.^^^
Within the
cated to the Panagia.
way to
the castle
is
castle is a little
The jamb
church dedi-
of the entrance door-
a block of marble, inscribed vdth
a dedication of a temple and certain statues by Niko-
damos, son of Aratogenes, priest of the Dioscuri.^^''
To
down
St.
the west of
Damos
to the shore.
Here
is
is
a small valley leadinga church dedicated to
Michael (Tasiarches), and close by
it
a well of
excellent
water, with a square aperture built
marble.
This well appears ancient.
is
a cave,
of
Near this well

called '[XTrpoa-rtva ftspv], which extends, as I
for about 450 paces into the earth.
Out
was
told,
of
has been dug, probably for centuries, a red clay,
it
which supplies material for a pottery at the mouth

Here I found a potter at work with a
of the cave.
wheel, which has, probably, not changed
since the time of the ancients.
lower disk,
rpti-j^p^,
nected Avith a
by a
spindle, po'xa.
upper
disk,
lump of
form
It consisted of a
turned by the
smaller
its
foot,
and con-
[xixfihg
Tpo;:ôV>
clay having been
placed on the upper disk is fashioned as it revolves

by a wooden lathe held in the hand. On a Greek
317
IN THE LEVANT.
cup in the
Museum
Britisli
a potter
is
represented
shape
lias
been thus formed, the handles are put on when
re-
at
work
witli a similar wlieel.^^^
and the ware
quired,
It is then
hardens.
tlie
to dry in the sun tiU
is left
baked
After
it
whole
in a fui'nace for a
day. All the modern Greek pottery which I have seen

is
of a very coarse kind, though in
many
islands
the ancient shapes of the amphora, and other larger

vases are stUl retained, with
is
particularly the case at Rhodes.
by the ancients
clay used
process by which
such tenacity
is
it
still
The fine tough

unknown or the
was tempered and wrought

glazing
to
is
Manjr of the ancient names of
At Calymnos
retained.
and large
saucers are
from
the Calymuiote corruption of d[j.i7\-yto, " to
called TTivaxta,
apjas'yto,
either
no longer understood:
seldom employed.
vases are
is
This
deviation.
little
pails for milk, df'[xsyot,
milk."
On
the shore at Linari
Here
small bay.
is
a harboui' formed by a
saw a column of blue marble,
inscribed with a dedication by the people of

to the
Calymnos
emperor Claudius, styled Saviour and Bene-
factor of the
island.^''"
North of Linari and opposite the small island called

Telendos
is
fiâgments
here
a ruined chm'ch on a
of columns.
and a
little
lull,
wliich contains
temple perhaps stood
to the south of this chm'ch
place called Periboh, planted with vines, where

pieces of ancient marble have been
remains
may mark
dug up.
These
the site of an ancient city.
channel between the shore and Telendos here
is
many
is
The
very
narrow, and affords good anchorage for large ships.
318
TRAVELS AND D1SC0\1:EIES
I crossed ovei* to Telendos,
On
interest me.
where I found
little
to
the shore opposite Calymnos are
the ruins of a village, where I noticed in the walls
some ancient
Here are several ruined chui'ches, but I
could find in them no inscriptions.
A steep mountain rises from the shore, on the
summit of which is a mediaeval castle with cisterns.
of the houses squared blocks from
edifice.
I did not examine this, but
my companion, the Greek

me that there
schoolmaster of Calymnos, assm'ed
were no inscriptions there.

north side of Telendos
was
an Hellenic
is
with very large blocks of stone.
on the
told that
fortress built
This
we had not
time to examine.
Hearing that there were Hellenic tombs at a place

called Yathy, BaSu, to the north-east of the
Calymnos, I visited
town of
The road to it, leaving

leads up a steep mountain-
this spot.
the old town on the right,
pass to a rocky crest,
connecting the mountains
Agios Bhas on the right and Milianos on the
On
crossing this ridge,
we descended by
left.
a road as
abrupt as the ascent into a narrow valley, which stiU

retains its ancient
name Temenia, and where,
accord-
ing to Eoss, a quantity of silver coins were found
some years
ago.^*^
This valley
is
bomided on the N.E. by the mounwhich extends across the island
tain Parasebaste,
in a direction
S.E.byN.W.
At
its
eastern extremity
the valley of Temenia -nddens into
extending as far as the sea, where
is
very suitable for ancient shipping.
little
plain,
a small harbom',
This plain, the
richest part of the island, is called Vathy.
It is
IN
319
THE LEVANT.
planted witli olives and studded with houses, which
form a cluster round a metoche, or farm, the property

of a church.""
Proceeding in a south-eastern direction towards

the sea,
we came
to a plateau rising out of the plain,
On
very similar to that of Damos.
the south, a
wall of Hellenic masonry runs contuiuously along the
rocky edge of this j^lateau
Within the precinct of

dedicated to
St.
foi"
several huudi-ed yards.
this wall is a ruined
Michael
entnely of Hellenic blocks
(Taxiarches),
;
church
and
built
and further on another
church. Agios Georgios, where Ross copied a sepulchral inscription
The whole
of the time of the Antonines.^''
of this part
is
called
Encremea.
In the
plain south of the Hellenic wall have been found
tombs.
Immediately below the southern edge of the
platform
is
we came
the bed of a small stream, crossing which
to a
plam planted with
olives.
this plain, to the south, are small natural
Beyond
mounds.
The tombs are said to be in a sandy level between these

mounds and an old church, called Panagia Calliotissa.
In a
field close to this chui'ch I
found several Helle-
and a large mortar or basin made of

These remains had been recently
ordinary stone.
dug up. On the shore of the harbom- of Vathy, Ross
nic blocks
found ruins of built tombs, most of them vaulted.
To
was
the
N.W.
told there
of
Encremea
were Hellenic
those of a Greek acropolis.
is
Castello,
walls,
I
where I
supposed to be
had not time to
visit
From the number of ancient remains in

this place.
the valley of Yathy, it is evident that a town must
have stood here, probably on the plateau where I
320
remarked the Hellenic
wall.
Tlie fertility of this
and the convenience of the harbour of Vathy

Here
would account for the choice of this site.
valley
probably stood one of the three towns in this island
mentioned by Pliny."'
XXIX.
Mytilene, March
At
20, 1855.
length I have succeeded in getting away fi-om
Calymnos, where I was detained so long that I got

utterly
weary of such a monotonous
life.
You
can-
not imagine any isolation more complete than that

of an European compelled to sojourn in such an island
in winter time.
It is
something
like living at the
bottom of a well and seeing the same bit of sky every
The winter has been an unusually severe one.

The house I lived in, though once the residence of a
day.
Greek archbishop, was a v^retched squalid barrack

with no glass in the windows. The roof being flat
and covered with
earth, the rain in
dinpped through on to
fireplace, I could only
my
keep myself
wet weather
There being no
piUow.
warm by cowering
over an earthen pan just 8 inches in diameter

^Tit\^.
charcoal.
After standing
the
filled
field,
all
day watching
was generally obliged
my workmen
to take
in
an active
my o"\vn supper, in which

of my trusty Albanian cavass.
part in the cooking of

I
had the assistance
To
obtain evei'y day wholesome food and fuel was
IN THE LEVANT.
321
a business requiring mucli foretliouglit and trouble
and the absolute necessity of exerting myself
my mind
order to exist kept

nation into which
it
in
fi'om the utter stag-
would otherwise have
fallen,
from the extreme monotony and eventless character

of the
life
world of
I led.
My
civilization
communications with the outer
were carried on
liy
stray caiques
which sometimes wandered about the Archipelago for
many days
unable to pass Cape Crio, but which
mately succeeded in conveying to

letters
me huge
ulti-
packets of
and newspajaers from Rhodes, containmg the
only authentic intelhgence of what was passing in the
Crimea which ever reached the island of Calymnos.

Christmas and New-year's-day were particularly
doleful times to me.
These
by the Greeks twelve days
festivals are celebrated
after ours
and
for
about
a fortnight we had a series of processions and feasts,

in
which the population take the greatest delight,
l)ut
which were singularly tiresome to an
indifferent
spectator.
The constant recurrence
My
festivals,
in
which
on the whole popidation,
perfect idleness is enforced
made
of
the progress of the excavations very slow.
labourers were anxious to
the week as they could
work
as
many days
but the Ai^chbishop
in
inti-
mated to them one morning through a priest, that

they must on no account work on any feast-day, of
which there were constantly two in each week.
Bread was so dear, that
was a great
hardship to the poor.
Fasts are kept in Calymnos
with extraordinary rigom".
When the caique was
shipwrecked in which
this restriction
my
T
former letter was sent,
322
two of the passengers were drowned the rest, who

happened to be Franks, were fished out of the water
;
and brought more dead than
on shore into the
alive
house of a rich Greek merchant.

cold
was
It
December weather, and the Itahan
bitterly
doctor, on
being called in to restore the half-drowned survivors, immediately ordered
to be prepared for them.

that, as
it
some
substantial food
Their host then observed
was one of the most
strict fasts in the
whole year, he had the greatest scruple in allowing

animal food to be cooked in his house
a great favour, he would allow
but that, as
them a
broth
made
of butter stin'ed round in hot water.
The
feeling that one is alone in
who
Greek com-
is more deThe sympathy

with which certain people in England regard the
Eastern Christians is by no means reciprocated by the
munity,
look upon us as heretics,
pressing even than absolute solitude.
Greeks, who,
if
by Russia, would be capable

So far as
led on
of a crusade against "Western Europe.

I
have observed, wherever
Roman
Catholics
are
found isolated in Greek communities, they are more

or less exjaosed to insults and annoyances, as non-
conformists to the religious discipline of the place.
The
Italian doctor here diu-ing
the last gi'eat fast
ventm-ed to eat meat every day.

offence not to be forgiven.
This was an
Stones and pieces of
iron were thrown over the wall of his courtyard,
with the remark that he might as well eat them as
meat
in Lent.
his wife
One
of these pieces of iron struck,
on the breast
and the family were kept
in
such constant fear that the doctor, being the pos-
323
IN THE LEVANT,
passport, appealed
sessor of a British
protection.
island
to
my own
they came.
me
summon
but I did not hesitate to
Demarchia
prise,
had no
to
for
jurisdiction whatever in the
house
and, rather to
the
my sur-
remonstrated with them in very
decided language, and told them that, after so
much
had been done by the "Western powers for the protection of the Christians in the Bast, no one sect of
Christians would be permitted to annoy or persecute
another, and that religious toleration was the principle
which we were resolved to maintain in the
The
Turkish empire.
an
sleek primates listened with
extreme contrition, and apologized for the
air of
insult offeiêd to the Italian doctor, which, they said,

I remember,
work of some boys.
when the Turks at Rhodes last year took to menacing the Christians, the same excuse was offered.
had
It is
the
jjeen
always the children
who
these occasions in the Levant
are put forward on

to
commence a war
of petty insults and annoyances.
About the time when

another
not
first arrival at
this took
place,
agreeable discovery.
very
Calymnos,
made
On my
asked the most respect-
recommend me a
I was acforeman of my workmen.
able inhabitants of the place to
person as
cordingly introduced to an individual called Manoli

the Cassiote,
who,
was assured, was a ti[xios

as Antony says of
oivB^wTTog,
an honourable man,
Brutus.
Manoli the Cassiote, at the time of
arrival,
occupied
the
distinguished
position
my
of
cavass, or chief constable of the whole community.
He was
man
over six feet high, of Herculean

Y 2
324
TRAVELS AND DISGOVEEIES
When
frame, and great activity.
my workmen,
he overtopped them
stood
lie
all like
among
Saul,
and
he surjDassed them in intelligence as much as in
He had
bodily stature.
much
been
at sea,
and had
been tossed about the Mediterranean and the Black
Sea from Marseilles to Odessa

he recounted
life,
little
every
now and
then
romantic bits of his adventurous
from which I inferred that his Odyssey must
have been a singular one,
suspicion which
was
further confirmed by the study of his countenance,
which to
my mind was
one of the most diabolical
I ever beheld.
He was
always armed to the teeth with a long
gun, a formidable knife, and a brace of pistols.
Wlien I
first
took him into
my
service,
begged
him to prevent any one from visiting the places

where I was excavating at such times as work was
"
not going on there.

that subject," said
all
my
the boys that
Make
fi'iend
Manoli; " I have told
catch any of
if
yourself quite easy on
them
in our
diggings I shall put a ball through them."

quiet
way
in
which he said
respect with which
all
this,
The
and the profound
the inhabitants, fi'om the
me feel
was no common man
Archbishop downwards, treated him, made

that Manoli the Cassiote
that he had a mysterious influence in the place,
which,
so
long as
it
was exerted
in
my
behalf,
would be particularly favourable to the success of

the expedition.
One
day, during a temporary cessation of the
diggings,
thought
of
making a
visit
to
the
opposite coast of Asia Minor and taking Manoli
325
IN THE LEVANT.
witli
On mentioning
me.
this project to
highly respectable gentlemen
him
one of the
who had recommended
to me, he let out that Manoli could
quite where he liked about

that, in fact,
having been concerned in a
some years ago
of vendetta
On making
not go
Tm"kish empire
the
at Cos, he
little affair
was an outlaw.
further mquiries, I learnt the particulars
of the crime for which he had been so outlawed.

It
happened that traveUing
in
Cos about a year
ago I slept one night at a wayside house, which

stands near the sea-shore at some
any
My
village.
distance from
host was a lonely old man,
\Y\i\\
companion but a daughter about nineteen years

he had no other family, when he told
I asked if
no
old.
me
how, some years ago, while he was absent at Con-
whom had
two Calymniotes, one of
stantinople,
been his servant, landed at Cos suddenly in the

night,
and mm'dered
except the daughter,

years old hid herself
his wife
and
all
his children,
who Ijemg then about nine

imder a rug. The miu'derers
being alarmed at the approach of some neighljom'S,

tried to
make
the house
off before
they had time to plunder
and, whether by design or accident, in
the confusion of theu'
flio-ht
one of them shot his
" And what became

accomplice and then escaped.
of him ? " I asked, and was told that he got back to
Caljnnnos, that Avhen
the Tm'kish police came to
arrest him, he concealed himself in the mountains
with the connivance of the local authorities
he had remained at Calymnos ever

I Kttle thought,
horror,
that
when
and that
since.
I listened to this tale of
one of the perpetrators of the deed
326
would one day be in my employ but so it was.

The murderer wlio escaped in so singadar a manner
was Manoli the Cassiote.
;
This very unwelcome discovery explained to
why
the chief constable of
Calymnos
is
me
treated
with such profound respect by the authorities and
He
people of his island.
is
one of those
men who,
by a combination of great natural force of character

and physical strength, has succeeded in pvitting
No
himself above the law.
one in Calymnos dares
take the initiative of bringing him to justice.

is
in league with a
characters,
who
whom
He
band of about twenty desperate

he
calls
the police of Calymnos,
and take care that
patrol the streets at night,
nobody commits any act of violence except with

the
Icnowledge and consent of the head con-
fidl
Now
stable.
and then,
this
fonctionary,
finding
himself in want of ready money, favours some rich
Greek of
his acquaintance with a visit,
a loan, which,
is
it
never refased
is
and requests
hardly necessary to observe,
for the consequences of the refusal
would be such as few would care to encounter.

Last year, about the month of May, Calymnos was
suddenly invaded by a band of pupates from Samos,
about thu'ty in number.

well armed,
and choosing
attack a time
when
This small party beingfor the
moment
of their
the gTeater part of the male
population was absent for the sponge-fishery, surprised and captured the lower
town in open day,

and sacked the houses and magazines of all the
richest merchants without meeting with the smallest
resistance.
Acting on Robin
Hood's
principle,
they invited the poor of Calymnos to a share of
327
IN THE LEVANT.
and then went on
their booty,
Samos
told
Manoh
rejoicing.
me
this story,
their
way back to
when he
the Cassiote,
observed, with a grim smile,
that such an invasion ought never
to
have hap-
pened, and that the Calymniotes well deserved the

" I
loss they sustained for not taking his advice.
said the head-constable, " to protect the
offered,"
island
dmnng
an increase of
receiving
refused
In
siote
the simimer months, on condition of
my demand;
Italy,
in
The primates
salary.
and see what happened."
the 16tli centmy, Manoli the Cas-
would have made an accomplished bravo
in the service of
such a
of the Promessi
Sposi,
man
and
Don Roderigo
as the
would have distinguished
himself above his fellows
for there is
in his cha-
happy mixture of cunning and audacity.
racter a
In the Greek revolution he would have been equally
renowned as an Archipelago
element
is
pirate
for his natviral
the sea.
Living as he does in the midst of a community
which
is
slowly emergiug out of lawlessness and
crime into the state of order engendered by regular

industry and commercial prosperity, he seems singularly out of place.
spectable person in
to
Every well-disposed and reOalymnos would be dehghted
get rid of Manoli the Cassiote,
sort
because this
of cut-throat represents that kleftic
element
which, having once predominated in the Ai'chipelago,

is
now
gradually giving
way
to
civilization
but
nobody has the courage to " bell the cat."

It is difficult
to find
lanimous fear of one

persons.
It
an excuse for
man
this
pusil-
in a population of 10,000
may readily be conceived that
in the first
328
instance hatred
of
Caljanniotes
screen
justice;
to
but
why was
head-constable,
Turkish rulers led the
tlieii'
to invest him with
he pleases
I
him
to permit
was
fiôm
necessary to elect
it
signs of respectability, to pay
and
murderer
a kno^ÂTi
all
him a
him
the outward
liigh salary,
to levy black mail as
much
as
told that this is not the only case in
which
the Calymniotes have deliberately harbom'ed mm--
nor
derers,
is
Calymnos the
only place in the
Turkish Archipelago where such felons are allowed

to dwell in
happy impunity.
In towns
like
and Consuls
Rhodes or Mytilene, where Pashas

the authors of great crimes
reside,
seldom veutm'e to show in public
and
islands
but in the smaller
in the seaports of Asia
are generally to be found
or
among
more known mm^derers, who,
like
Manoli the
maintain a very respectable
Cassiote, contrive to
position in society.
Minor there
the population one
It is in vain that the
try to civilize themselves
Greeks
by schools and commerce,
so long as they permit this canker of
impunished
crime to remain in then- communities.^*^
The unpleasant discovery as to the real character

Cassiote was made by me at the
beginning of the month of February, after he had
of Manoli the
been a long time in
my
employ.
afterwards, the old Ionian in
came
to
me
Immediately
whose house
I lodged
with a face of utter consternation, with
the intelligence that the whole allied army was cut

off to a
man
in the Crimea.
I had had no
mouth and the
;
letters or
last mail
newspapers for a whole
had brought me news of
329
IN THE LEVANT.
Inkermann
the battle of
so that
a shudder that I received this
was not without

rumour fi'om my
it
He had drawn me
Ionian host.
aside fi'om
my
conversation might not be
workmen, so that oiu'

and fi'om the dismayed expression of
overheard
his countenance, I inferred that
reassured as to
all
were
money
my
in
had
true.
my
he did not
personal safety
rise,
declare
their
the news
then a considerable
house, and thought that
were to
if
if
feel at
sum
of
the people
depose theu- Tiu'kish Governor, and

independence,
which
they
would
probably have done had the news been confirmed,
would not be an easy matter to get out of Calymnos in safety. However, I put a bold face on the
matter, and assm-ed the Ionian that the news could
it
by no
possibility
be true, or I should have had an
express to announce
As
it
from the Consul at Rhodes.
the time di-ew on for bringing the expedition
to a close, I
found that the quantity of inscriptions
from the tombs and diggings would

form a cargo too bulky to be contained in any
caique and it was not easy to find a seaworthy ship
at Oalymnos to take me and my hardly-earned
and other
spoils
fi-eight to
Ehodes, in a season so uncertain as the
vernal equinox.
my
diflSculty
ment
to send
Lord Stratford relieved me from
by persuading the Tm'kish Govern-
me
war steamer then stationed
ui
the Archipelago.
Having had notice that

this steamer, I closed
Apollo
my
might shortly expect
diggings at the Temple of
and reser^^ng only a very small party of
workmen, made one more ventiu-e in the district

of Damos, in a field Ivino- between the church called
330
My
Prophet Elia and the Temple of Apollo.

reason for trying this
field
was
its vicinity to
only
that of
Jauni Sconi.
I
commenced digging
in a spot
of two graves might be
on
distinctly traced
still
the surface of a footpath.
where the outline
was
Wliile I
at work, a
Greek, whom I had never seen before, came up to

me. " I think," he said, " if you dig here " (pointing
to one of the graves),
good."
I took
liis
"you wiU
find
advice; and the
something
workmen had
hardly broken the groimd with their pickaxes, before
they found a small circular ornament in bronze so

finely
wrought that
was
at once led to ho2Je for
some work of art of a better quahty than what
had
been discovering.
I therefore immediately took the pickaxes fiôm
my workmen,
the hands of
and made them scratch
the ground with the small scraping-irons which
were
in the habit of using.
more of these bronze

bronze vase with rich
at the very
I very
we
soon found three
disks, the handle of a large

floral
ornaments, and
lastly,
bottom of the grave, but not more than
eight inches below the surface, a beautiful bronze

gi'oup in high relief, representing Boreas carrying
ofi"
This gi'oup forms
Oreithyia.
plate
15.
Boreas
is
represented
and large wings as a wind-god;

to be looking
the
back to the world
subject of
with buskins
Oreithyia seems
fi'om
which she
is
snatched away.
Standing over the grave vdth this group

hand, I thought of the Eurydice of
Georgic
" luvalidasque tibi tcndens, hcu
non
the
in
my
foiu'th
tua, palmas."
BOREAS CARRYING OFF OREITHYIA
FROM
I/aidar. ,P-jbJ,rJicd
ERpNXEr HYDRIA,
.
by Day 8:
Soii.T,irli"to tk;
(LIMlTEOl
ji,
QaceiL
IN THE LEVANT.
Two
other
66
smaller bronze handles were found
was evident that the

whole had belonged to a large hi/dria of the same
metal, the body of which had decayed, all but the
mouth, wliicli on account of its greater solidity had
with these remains
and
it
not been decomposed.
The bronze group had been placed

hisertion of the principal handle.
at the lower
It is in
or repousse work, and had been anciently

I found
adhering to the hair of the female figure

earth of the grave, on being
rehef
is
Wlien
gilt.
minute portions of gilding were
it,
of gold
particles
embossed
sifted,
and the
yielded
The composition
leaf.
still
many
of this
exceedingly beautiful, the execution rather
and we miss in it the refinement and delicacy of modelling which distingiushes

inferior to the design
the bronzes of Siris in the British
Museum beyond
However,
same Idnd.
bronzes in embossed work of a good period are
so exceedingly rare that the gi'oup of Boreas and
all
other works
Oreithyia
may
fairly
objects of this class

Sifting
pearls
the
of
rank among the most precious
which have been discovered.
the earth,
found a number of small
and other fragments of a necklace.
presence of these remains shows that the grave
The
was
and the subject of the bronze

group was probably selected to commemorate allusively the untimely fate of the person in whose grave
that of a female;
was foimd just as in ancient sarcophagi we often

find repeated the Death of Meleager, the Rape of
it
Proserpine, and other kindred subjects, suitable for
the commemoration of the death of the young.
On my making
this
remarkable discovery, the
332
me
Greeks present congratiilated

unfeigned satisfaction,
the
He became
field.
all,
except
with
tlie
tlie
most
proprietor of
and was
utterly downcast,
suddenly troubled with doubts as to the boundaries

of
liis
property
and when he found on which
of the footpath I intended to pursue
my
side
diggings,
declared that the ownership of that half of the field
had always been a matter of dispute between him

and his father-in-law. This statement was evidently
an invention of the moment, put forth as the
groimd of a lawsuit, in case I discovered a great
treasure.
How
I should have disposed of this imespected
difiiculty I
know
messenger
came up
haste, to tell
was
take
to
not, but just at this
from
the
moment a
harbour
in
hot
me that the Turkish steamer which

me away had arrived, and that,
the anchorage being dangerous, the captain was
anxious that I woidd embark as soon as possible.
Here was an end of all my excavations, just at the

moment when I seemed to have hit upon the track
of a more promising part of the cemetery but the
opportunity of getting away safely was one which I
;
was not
likely to
the scene of
all
my
so I reluctantly left
last discovery,
and embarked with
haste.
Before I
left
commended me
on
have again
me
Calymnos, the Greek who had
re-
to dig in that particidar spot waited
for a hahsliish,
and told me that about twenty
years ago he opened that very grave in the early
morning, and without the permission of the owner,
him at his work. He would not tell

me what he had found in it but I gathered fiôm
who
surprised
333
TN THE LEVANT.
manner that it had contained gold ornaments.

It would appear, then, that, being interrupted before
he had finished his work, he left the few inches of
soil at the bottom of the grave \inexplored, and thus
Such are the
missed the prize which I found.
liis
chances of excavation.
On
I
lea\dng Calymnos
in
the
Turkish steamer,
took the opportunity of crossing over to the
opposite coast, for the purpose of visiting

I had long wished to explore.
The steamer took us rapidly across
Budrum,
which
shore
and
after
having been so long accustomed
to the noisy streets
Greeks and pigs,

in the stillness
it
of Calymnos, thronged with
seemed strange to
find myself
and seclusion of the picturesque old
Turkish town, which stands on the

carnassus.
to the Asiatic
site
of Hali-
was very kindly received by the
authorities at Budinmi,
and an application
to
the interior of the castle was instantly assented
see
to.
This castle stands on a peninsula forming one

side
of the
harbom% and
is
fine
specimen of
military architectm"e in the 15th century.
known that it was built by the Knights

John out of the ruins of the Mausoleum
and that twelve slabs of fi'ieze fi'om that famous
mom;ment were extracted fi-om its walls and sent
It is well
of St.
to the British
Museum
which the public
is
Lord Stratford de
in 1846,
an acquisition for
indebted to the influence of

Kedcliffe with
the Porte, and
not less to the zeal and enthusiasm with which he

has always promoted archfeological researches in
the Levant for the benefit of the National Collection of Scidptmê
and Antiquities.
334
In
my Memoir
on the Mausoleum, in 1846,"^ I
have expressed the hope that a careful examination

of the castle might lead to the discovery of
sculptures of the
Mausoleum
built into the -walls.
have never ceased to entertain

since
my
It
hope
this
l)ut,
arrival in Tiu-key, various circumstances
have prevented
year.
more
me from
was with a
visiting
Budrmn
tiU this
feeling of eager curiosity that
I passed over the old drawbridges, once so jealoiisly
guarded, into the interior of this celebrated fortress.
Very few
before,
had ever enjoyed
travellers
indeed, there
this privilege
a story that an adventm-ous
is
Englishman once obtained a firman

him to visit the
tinople authorizing
that on presenting
it
at
at
Constan-
castle
but
Budinim to the command-
ant,
he got a hint that the firman only authorized
his
entry into the castle, but said nothing about
On
his exit.
walking round the ramparts on the
side overlooking the harbour, I
made a sudden
"VVliat I
saw was so surprising that
believe
the evidence
of
my own
halt.
I could hardly
In
eyes.
the
embattled wall, between the embrasures, was the
head and
forehand of a colossal
lion,
white
in
masonry and looking towards

the interior of the castle.
I saw at a o-lance that
this lion was the work of a Greek chisel, and that
marble,
it
biiilt
into the
belonged to the finest period of ancient
art.
There could be but one mode of accoimting

its
presence in the castle,
originally
formed
the supposition
part of
the
for
that
Mausoleum.
it
On
looking over the battlements, I saw in the face of

the wall below, five other Uons, inserted at intervals
as ornaments,
all
of the finest white marble; and
IN
335
THE LEVANT.
in another part of the castle
two more, placed on
each side of an escutcheon as supporters.
On making
as
this
most interesting discovery,
you may suppose, much
had never,
to
my
reliefs in
situ
by Dalton
felt,
hons
knowledge, been noticed by any
of the English travellers
The
siirprise that these
who had
visited
Budrum.
the walls of the castle were drawn in

in the last century,
Devereux a few years back
;"'
and by Captain
and the gentlemen
charged with the removal of these pieces of
frieze
1846 were engaged in that operation for a whole

month, dmnug which time they must have had the
in
TEAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES, ETC.
336
opportunity of seeing these lions every

tliey
Wlietlier
supposed tliem to be mediaeval or Turkish
I cannot say, but they seem to
these sculjDtures of too
little
drawing public attention
to.
On
clay.
have considered
account to be worth
refeiTing to Boss's travels, I found that he
had not failed to observe these lions on his visit to

Budrum, and though he only got a distant view of
them from a boat, at once guessed that they
belonged to the Mausoleum. On leaving Budrum,
I took the first opportunity of reporting this dis-
covery to Lord Stratford, and I have no doubt that
he
will take
advantage of the
first
favourable occa-
sion to obtain a firman from the Porte.
From Budrum we returned to Mytilene, anchoring

on our way at Chesmah, opposite Scio, where I
inquired
for
coins
the
of
neighbouring
city
of
Erythree, but without success.
We
arrived at ovir destination after a very pros-
was fortunate that we had fine

weather the whole way for, as I had no means of
perous voyage.
It
packing the inscriptions at Calymnos, they were
stowed away
ballast.
in the hold of the ship like so miich
APPENDIX,
A TOUR
IN LYCIA BY ME.
Thursday, March IG, ISJi.
Rhodes
way
we
this
left
Accompanied Ly Mr. A. Berg,
A favourable breeze carried us on briskly,
the moonlit towers and walls of the old
Castel Rosso, the ancient Megiste,
us.
COLNAGHI.
left
evening in a sailing vessel for Castel Rosso, on our
to Lycia.
soon
D. E.
about sixty miles
east
of
so that
town behind
a small island, situated
is
Rhodes, and very near the coast of
town is placed partly on a promontory, which

and partly at the end of the bay formed by
this cape and the opposite coast of Asia.
On the summit of
the promontory is a fine old castle built of a red stone, a
Asia Minor.
Tlie
juts out into the sea,
memorial of the time when the Knights of Rhodes possessed the
The houses
island.
same red
of the
modern town
are mostly built of the
and present a very jjicturesque appearance.

poptrlation of the island is from six to seven thousand.
men
stone,
are nearly all sailors, and a
Though rich and

character, and are noted
island.
miles in circumference,
limestone mountains.
fail-
number of vessels belong to the
pro.sperous, the Casteloriziotes bear

pirates.
is
The
The
The
island,
which
is
a bad
about 18
very barren, being formed of rugged
The only water the inhabitants drink
is
collected in cisterns outside the town.
Ou
the mountain side, by the harbour,
is
a small Doric rock
tomb.
I walked to the top of the moimtain behind the town.
On
summit
two or three Greek chapels, and the remains

To the left of the fortress are the remains
of some Hellenic walls, composed of lai'ge and beautifully squared
blocks of limestone.
The ruins seem to form the corner tower
the
are
of a mediasval fortress.
of a walled eKce(7i?c/ the rest of the building
mound
tions,
of earth.
and a
mountain
well, the only
ridge,
is
buried under a
There are several cisterns within these

one on the
island.
and descending between two

Z
now
hills
fortifica-
crossed the
into a small
338
APPENDIX.
valley,
now
found a small modiiieval tower,
a valley beyond
near which
tliLs
a monasteiy.
is
We
mountain
tlie
remains of a built tomb for two people.
a pleasant
From Castel Rosso
sail across
the
must have been a
It
up the blocks and carrying them away

modern buUding.
Saturday, IMi.
On
side the
was there, some boys were engaged
structure, but, even while I
in breaking
is
In
cliapel.
then rounded the hUl.
plain were several ancient blocks, and by
loftj'
used as a
were some carefully squared Hellenic blocks,
some more
for
to Antiphellus (Antiphilo)
Before ns rose the
a land-locked bay.
mountainous coast of Asia Minor, with the beautiful bays

of Vathy (the deep) and Sevedo
behind us were the rocky
tine
As we
mountains- of Castel Rosso.
we made
passed on,
out
first
we
the ruins of the theatre, then some Hellenic walls, and as
ueared the shore gi'oups of sarcophagi were
The modern
storehouses for the Valonea which
from the
tion
theatre,
forest of
which
visible.
village of Antiphilo consists of a few cottages
is
is
The ancient
CEnium.
It
seats.
is
built
ruins consist of the
and contains twenty-six
of Hellenic ai-chitecture,
rows of well-finisbed
of large squared blocks of
Large lime-
limestone well titted together, and has no iwosceidum..

stone sarcojjhagi are scattered
are
hewn out
all
and
brought down for exporta-
over the valley
sometimes they
The only ornament on them is a

name
of the rock itself
square tablet with a Greek inscrijjtion, setting forth the
and
titles
of the deceased, whose bones have long since been scat-
tered to the winds, for all these sarcophagi have been broken open.
On
the side of the
hill
enter the tomb,

bas-relief
tomb
jecting roof
about
Ls
two rock tombs
out of the rock.
On
one
either side, as
is
you
the couch for the dead, liavmg an ornament in
round the
little figures
other
is
facing the sea are
hewn
square, and entirely
recess.
(i
At
the head of the
tomb
is
a frieze of
The
inches high, holding each other's hands.
cut out in the ordinary Lycian style, with a pro-
The rock
is
cut
so
a.s
to I'epresent a
beam
sup-
ported on logs of wood, an imitation, jwobably, of the ordinary
houses of the period.

instances, are built
The houses
on the same
of the
plan.
modern
peasants, in
many
Below, on the front of the
tomb, panels are cut in the rock with projecting mullionscni either
On this tomb is an inscription in Lycian as well as Greek.

In the valley near Port Vathy are two more tombs ; the largest
side.
of Ionic, the second of Lycian character.
modern
To
the east of the
village are other groups of sarcophagi in picturesque posi-
339
APPENDIX.
where the rock
tions, ami,
on a hollow
jiedestal,
sarcophagus
is j^liiin,
on which
on the
left
behind the
look
the front
tion the
are
on the
right,
green shiiibs,
I'ock
the
a fine
cut
is
gi'oiip
into
the
across
the bay
the
mountain
and has a Gothic

Roman and a Lycian
roof,
but they
From
rises
ha-\-e
rock of
no connec-
the -view
point
this
is
Rosso
Castel
surrounded by lofty mountains covered with dark

lies
Port Vathy
on the low
hills
below are
tombs, the theatre, and picturesque gi'oups of sarcophagi

left
arc
are here sculjitured into
of rock tombs on the
panels.
other.
The
it is jianellcd.
The knobs, which
are bas-reliefs.
cut over the portal,
one with
magniticent
is
where
side,
One has an arched
village.
inscription
lid
One
hollowed out.
a long Lycian inscription.
lids of sarcophagi,
There
lions' heads.
is
is
of limestone, supjiorted
it is
except at either
In the panels of the

usually
a tomb
i)ermits,
sarcophagus towers above the rest
the promontory which forms Sevedo
Bay sweeps
tin;
;
i>n
boldly
round.
Tuesday,
'list.
From Antiphellus to CyaueK
seven or eight hours.
The road
leads in
the mountain behind the village.
and ra^dnes
we
rocky and barren.
we passed
They live
several
in tents
psissed
wa,s
an
is
The vegetation
luxuriant,
a ride of abuut
ca.sterly dii-ection
but
over
in the valleys
mountains
the
The country soon becomes more open, and

encampments of Ymiiks, or nomad Turks.
formed of bent
matting, or branches,
poles above the ground,
or
else
t'wigs
in little
covered
with skins,
wooden huts
and with a door about 2
raised on
feet high,
through
which they manage to creep. They encamp in the ^vinter in the

valleys, and in summer remove with their flocks and herds to the
moiuitains.
They seem a sim])le and hospitable people.
The
women
do not veil their faces, but wear a loose cloth veil wliirli
on the shoulders over a liigli turljan. Sometimes this veil
tucked roimd the face under the chin a,s a jirotection against
lalls
is
the Sim.
At the end of a valley about three hours from Antiphilo we

found a single sarcoiihagus, with a Greek inscription much defaced.
Crossing a low hUl, and passing two cisterns, we soon reached the
end of the moimtain. Below us lay an imm ense fertile plain, and
beyond it moimtain rose above mountain, the highest peaks of
which were thickly covered mth snow. We descended part of
the
way down
turned
the mountaili, but, instead of coming to the plain,
off to the east,
and
2"iiissed
through a small stony valley
340
APPENDIX.
separated by a range of hills from the plain.
we saw some plain

Hence we descended into
this
fertile plain,
two
hills,
We
plain,
and passed by the
village of
from which we observed the rums
Sarla, about ten minutes distant
of a mediaeval buUdiug.
In an open space near
limestone sarcophagi with inscriptions.
now
ascended a small gorge between
with pine trees on either
This soon opened into a
side.
and on a mountain opposite we saw the rains of one of the
The fields were covered with a little blue

from which the name of Cyanese (Kvavea) may have been
derived.
Jaghu is a small village situated in a little valley beneath
thi-ee cities of Cyaneae.
flower,
the ruined city, where
Wednesday, 22nd.
we
halted.
From
Jaghu the road
steep and stony momitain path.
half-way
way,
is
to Cyaneaj
In parts the road
is
by a
is
ancient, and,
cut in the rock, on the right hand side of the path-
uji,
a small bas-relief rejjresenting two groups of horses.
the upper division are two standing
still
ing towards another standing
This bas-relief is
There are three rock tunibs
A little
this bas-relief
phagi of the
the lid
is
Roman
still.
mere holes cut in

One
tlie
much
of
cut so as to repi'esent overlapping leaves.
minutes more
we
defaced.
rock just above
we came to a group of sarcothem is much ornamented
further on
period.
In
in the lower, one gallop-
reached the walls of the
city,
In a few
which are
for the
most part Byzantine or mediieval. The foundations of the houses

and the dii-ections of some of the streets of the old city can still be
made
out,
though the whole
is
thickly overgi'own with brushwood.
There are some large vaulted buildings, and the walls and doors
of temples formed of large blocks of limestone beautifully squared.
One gateway
is
very beautiful, ornamented with a rich pattern of
the
Roman
and
plain, dentils,
The gi-ound
pei-iod.
inscriptions.
is
and fragments of
None
strewn with columns fluted
all
kinds, including one or
two
of the ruins inside the city walls appear to be
of earlier date than the
Roman
empire.
Outside the city gates on
the north side of the hUl the walls are jsartly of Hellenic masonry.
On
a lower
hill is
a long street of tombs, with sarcophagi pic-
Here
The theatre is
tm'esquely jilaced in the midst of brushwood.

ruins of
some
large public buildings.
the south face of the lower
hill
it is
On
the perpendicular and rocky side of the city
many
rock tombs.
situated on
of Greek form, and measures
there are twenty -four rows of

1 G5 feet in diameter
above tiie diazoma, ten are visible below it.
the south are
are also the
Among them
seats,
hill
twelve
which
faces
a grouji of three
341
APrENPix.
together
Ls
remarkable.
projecting front between
cut
are
tliey
They consist of a square toml) witli a

two arched tombs the rock out of whicli
;
painted blue
is
the sarcophagus
Close
red.
The tomb
rock tomb and sarcophagus.

out of the solid rock
and
is
to these
a square one, and
is
placed on
it.
is
is
cut
lu the
panels of the lid are bas-reliefs, on one side a draped male figure
seated,
on the other a draped female figure with a
before her
and holding her by the hand.
are sculptured into lions' heads.

is
a,
girl
little to
the right, below these,
a very fine Ionic tomb, cut in the red limestone.

portico
surmoimted by a pediment, supported
gi-aceful Ionic
colunm.
the usual way.
On
The
It consists of
in the centre
front inside the portico
is
the architrave above the door
is
is
a long and
a small sarcophagus.
Friday, '2Uh.
the
by a
panelled in
Above the
well preserved Greek inscriptiim of a good period.
tomb
standing
The knobs on the roof
Dembra
From
Jaghu
easterly direction
mouth
to Deriaghassy,"' at the
the fields at
covered with the
first
of
mountains in an
Gorge, the road leads over the
little
blue
we had observed on approaching Cyauea\ In about two

and a half we readied the end of tlie mountains on tins side,
flowers
hoiu's
and began
to descend into a magnificent
silver river
wound
were growmg.
its
way
on
Beyond, the
its
dai'k
plain, tlirougli whieli
;i
banks fine myrtles and oleanders
and stern-looking mountains
the distance formed a fine contrast \\dth this
i-icli jilain.
in
In about
three hovirs from the top of the mountain, and having crossed the
which was butli \vide and deep, we reached the water-mill

where we intended to take up our quarters.
The cathedral at Deriagha-ssy is a fine building of Byzantine
architecture, and rises in solitary grandeur from the ]ilain.
All
the interior decoration is gone, l)ut the walls remain, and the plan
The porch, the pronaos, the bodv
of the church is still j'lei'fectof the church covered with a dome, tlie apsis, and the stairs which
river,
led to the
women's
gallery,
may
all
be traced.
octagon shape stand on the north and south

plan of this cathedral
i.
p.
is
Baptisteries of
side.
An
accurate
given by Spratfc and Forbes (Lycia,
105), so I contented myself witli
making
a,
few jihotograj)hs
of the interior.
On
mouth of the Dembra

The greater part of the walls
a summit of a lofty mountain at the
Gorge are the ruins of a small
city.
* Called Tcliesemay in Spratt's
Map
of Lycia.
342
APPENDIX.
are Byzantine or meclifeval, but there are some remains of Cyclo-
The view from the top
pean and Hellenic architecture.
mountain looks clown on one
and
side to the dai-k
of the
gi-aud gorge,
on
There are two or three rock tombs on
the other across the plain.
the sides of the mountain, and two rock tombs and a sarcophagus
cut out in a point of rock beliind the mill.
Tuesday, 28th.
From Deriaghassy we proceeded
Gorge
to
Myra, about
We passed through the
seven hours' journey, on camels.
Dembra
the liver was too full and rapid to permit of our proceed-
We crossed and re-crossed the stream at least

The sceneiy was very grand. At one place the
rocky and barren, at another covered with shrubs
ing on horseback.
twenty times.
mountains are
and
trees
at intervals fine pine-trees lined the path near the river
Sometimes the mountains curved in on either
bank.
widening the gorge
at others
nearly across the narrow
and two
tain.
side,
thus
spurs of the hills stretched out
We
saw three
bears, a
mother
cubs, gently trotting along the side of a barren
moun-
We
I'aATiie.
halted at a mill near the centre of the gorge, not far

ruin.s.
In six hours we reached the
rumed Hellenic watch-tower commands the
We took up our lodgings at the Monasteiy
from which are some ancient

end of the
defile.
entrance on the
left.
of St. Nicholas, about an hour fui-ther on. In the plain of Myra.

It
is
situated in the centre of a large square, formed of walls com-
jiosed of large cushioned blocks of .stone
each wall
about 300 feet in length.
Ls
this building
may have been an
Roman
of the
period
Spratt conjectures that
The two
The monastery for-
agora or market-place.
gateways face the sea and the ancient port.
merly contained the bones of St. Nichola.s, the patron of Greek

sailors
but these relics were taken away by the Russians during
;
the Greek revolution, the
a portrait of the
saint,
The
due veneration.
was well known
Emperor
which
is
Nicliolas sentling in exchange
placed in the church and held in
old priest
who
attended to the church, and
to travellers, died six
months before our
The ruins of Myra are most interesting, but

The theatre is situated on the western edge of
foot of the mountain,
It
is
an immense
to Mr. Cockerell,
all
is
and
close to a
liuildiug,
3G0
It
is
of the
arriA-al.
well kno-\\ai.
the plain at the
group of rock tombs.
diameter of which,
the
feet.
fine
ai'e
Roman
accordmg
period
nearly
the seats are perfectly preserved, and on either side are vaulted
entrances, tlu'ougli wliich galleries conducted
body
(if tlie
Iniikling.
Part of
i\iti
tlie
jn'oscenmm
is
spectator to
preserved.
tlie
The
^1
'tir/'/tap^. rÂcCrx/
M YR
ROCK TOMi
loncbn PoblisKed ty Day
&
S on, litV!^ to
th.e
Queen
343
APPENDIX.
liave a rich ornament ronud the architraves and liiitels,

same character as that on the temple gate at Cyanea\
The cohimu standing at tlie side of the proscenium has a ricli
doorways
of the
Cormthian
capital.
The rock
by the
Myra
toml)s at
Dembra
to the entrance of the
rich
tomb
rises
are divided into two groups,
and those on the
theatre,
Gorge.
The
th(ise
mountain leading
side of tlie
very
gi'ouji is
first
above tomb halfway up the mountain
Some
side.
of the tombs have pediments and bas-reliefs, others again are of

the simple Lycian form, with projecting roofs, panels, and mullious.
One
(See Plate 16.)
two stand
or
entirely out from the rock.
Inside the portico of a Lirge tomb, called by Spratt "
Tomb," of the Lycian

scratched on the wall
f<i)-m,
The Lover's
the following inscriptinn
is
roughly
MOCXOC <J>IAEI <MAICTAN

THN AHMHTPIOY.
" Moschus loves Philiste the (daughter) of Demetriiis."
Tlie second
gmnp
contains those tombs with sculptures so fidiy
work on
described by Sir Charles Fellows, in his interesting
Among
these tomlis
The body
Ionic order.
of
tomb
the
doorway, on either side of which
which
mullious,
have
tliese
frieze of
draped male and female
ai'C
were round columns
On
by
figures, reclining
is
liead.
nms
-v-illagc
in
bull
is
tlio
butting
in the plain
Passing above the second group of rock toudis, and having

iar
the rock,
we came
is
on are more
step)s,
the rock on the
and a
left
.small
are
some
is
little
further
sarcophagus cut out of. the rock.

niches.
The top of the mountain
reached by a steep and stony path on the
stnnmit
as-
to a wall C(nnposed of
Hellenic blocks, which .supports the narrow pathway; a
On
low
of ancient fragments.
cended a few steps cut
is
a
in
TIh^ sculptures
sculpttired,
by the neck, and the
him with his horns.

The Turkish burial-ground near the small
full
lion's
and standing
subject.
pediment
the
above the doorway
a spirited combat between a Lycian lion and a bull
lion has seized his adversary
at
by a square
entei'ed
is
a square half-column with
apparently a funereal
of a good ])eriod.
relief,
is
surmounted
been
Beyond
various attitudes
Lj'cin.
a fine one with a pedimental faqade of the
is
noi-tli
side.
On
a castle of an oblong form, and, fur the most
the
jini-t,
344
APPENDIX.
of mecliroval arcliiteoture
Cyclopean walls.
jiartly
hut
and there are
liere
remains of
The whole length
is
of the
about 180 paces.
Monday, April
Zrd.
From
We
boat to Delikta.sh.
montory which formed

or lighthouse.
we
tlie
tower on the north-west side
built of large square hlooks.
castle is
then,
Tlie square
MjTa we
proceeded in a country
embarked from a
it
little
bay
on the pro-
are the ruins of a Byzantine watch-tower
wind favoured
Till sunset the
us, but, as it foiled
lay to for the night in a beautiful little creek, this side of
Cape Chelidonia. In the morning we doubled the cape and entered

At noon wo passed the Bay of Adrasan,
with its fine jiine-oovered mountains, and soon after saw Mount
Ohimisera with its snow-capped summit towering among the clouds.
the Gulf of Pamphylia.
We
anchored near Deliktash at 3
There are only two or
p.m.
three huts near the shore, inhabited by Greeks.
The Yoorouk
about ten minutes from the shore, consists of a

few wicker tents covered with skins, and two or three huts. There
village, situated
is
a large export of ])ine-wood from this place
either
in planks or
logs.
Wednesday,
plain, over a
5th.
The road
to the Chimasra fire lay across the
windmg stream by
burial-ground, which
is filled
sarcophagi hollowed out of the rock

child.
We
vegetation
.
still
Yoorouk
the
village.
with ancient fragments,

one
full size,
Near the
we found two
the other for a
passed along the plain through the most luxuriant
carub
trees,
about half an hour
and myrtle and laurel bushes abounded. In

to a point where the level ground is
we came
terminated by the mountains, which on one side are of limestone, on

the other of serjientine.
.shrubs,
flowers.
The
bill sides
and there were several
were covered with beautiful
varieties of orchids
We ascended the mountain
side
on the
among
left,
the wild
rather before
and in a quarter of an hour arrived

which a monastery was
probably attached. Large blocks with inscriptions, which may be
portions of the Temple of Viilcan, are lying about, and here issues
out of the rock the Chima;ra fire. The principal flame proceeds from
behind an arched opening in the rock, and smaller flames dart out
from crevices round the larger. A second flame issues from a little
pit close by.
The flame burns steadily, and was of, when we saw
coming to the den of the
plain,
at the remains of a Byzantine chapel, to
it,
about the same volume as would issue from a moderate
It
is
of a dark colour, like a wood
a mixture of sulphuric ether,
fire.
The
spirits of wine,
fireplace.
smell resembles that of
and
iodine.
The
soot
345
APPENDIX.
inaJe by
Nvhieli is
fire lias
tlie
flame
known to burn
been
mj'tliology,
said to be
is
was on the
it
good for sore
hifty
nioimtaiu
by that the
close
Chimfera, with lion's head, goat's body, and sei'pent's

it
The
.shepherds cook their dinners
this sjjot that the
by
thi.s
near the flame, there flows a beautiful
little
till
We
mountain stream.
to a lofty rock covered with the ruins of nie-
enti-auce, which,
high, forms the only passage to the ruined city.
the modern village takes the
We were now
name
when
From
the sea
is
this rock
of Deliktash, or perforated rock.
up with
For the
but here and
in a beautiful little valley, almost choked
bay-trees,
among which
are the ruins of Olj-mpus.
most part these ruins are Byzantine or mediaeval
we saw large blocks and
We at
it is
This rock was probably the ancient acropolis.
The rock here forms an arched
there
which
passed along the seashore for five minutes to the
we came
diasval buildings.
bushy
fire,
the side of the I'avine,
ruins of the city of (;)l}anpus are situated close to the village
of Deliktash.
south
natural
Down
reported wdll not cook stolen goods.
The
dwelt
tail,
monster was killed by Bellerojihon.
and
was on
This
eyes.
According to Greek
for 3,000 years.
the foundations of ancient buildings.
length reached a fine gateway about 18 feet high, with a
ornament round
beautiful
tlie
architrave.
preserved inscription, setting forth

lius Antoninu.s.
all
the
Close by
titles of
is
a perfectly
Marcus
Large columns and capitals (one of the
Avire-
latter I
mea-sured 2^ feet in diameter), and other blocks are lying about

in confusion.
Olympus
The
inscriptions
Saturday,
to Phenika,
8th.
We now
for
Rhodes.
turned from here to the
riglit,
lay
first
leaving ]Mount (Jhimaera on our
and the Bay of Adrasan on our
over an open rocky
Our road
The narrow valley in which it is situated

gorge, which opens out into another valley.
city.
terminates in a fine
We
Romans.
retraced our steps, and proceeded by laud
where we took ship
through the ruined
right,
we found were mostly Byzantine
flourished chiefly under the
hill,
left.
Sometimes we
jjassed
and at others the road led through lanes
then we reached a fountain bj' a plane-tree, near which a

body of Yoorouks were encamped under a tuft of cyjiresses. On
the mountain side was a rock tomb.
After an ascent of two hours
of laurel
and a half we reached the top of the mountain, and, passing

thi-ough the pine wood.s which cover the summit, had a magnificent
view of the Plain of Phenika, bounded on three sides by mountains,
on the fourth by the

distance.
sea.
We
saw the
iiiins of
Rhodiopolis in the
346
APPENDIX.
In two hours more we emerged on to
tlie
plain,
From Armootlee we
fatiguing ride to Armootlee.
and
liad
crossed a river
over a long stone bridge, and passed along the road by the moun-
Here were
tain side.
We
now
A little further on
is
is
are of Byzantine architecture,
earth.
The
The
the walled to^Tn.
but in
jiart
city walls
composed of ancient
Phenika has a rich and beautiful aspect,

miasma renders this disEven now at this scas:on the heat was
plain near
well cultiv.ated in parts, but the
is
deadly in summer.
trict
this spot is the
volume from the
a fine theatre, resembling the one at Myra, only
Here
smaller.
and
full
its
pass more rock tombs, and at length reach the ruins of
Limyi'a.
blocks.
Near
several rock tombs.
source of a stream which issues in
excessive.
At
the Port of Phenika
The
a dilapidated modern fortress.
is
lower part of the square tower and part of the walls are of Hel-
Phenika
lenic architecture.
Valonea
Almalee.
Tuesday, Wth.
is
is
the port of
tlie
Turkish town of
loaded here for Europe.
Sailed
Rhodes, where
for
we
did not arrive tUl
the 18th, owing to contrary winds.
Asia Minor which we visited is at present in a

The greater part of the country is in the hands
of the Zebecks, or mountain robbers, and in many cases the local
The
district of
very bad
state.
authorities have left their posts.
a band of 80 Zebecks are out.

phjdia,
At
On
the mountains near Almaleo
Near Adalia, on the Gulf
some of these robbers have
Daliani,
of
Pam-
killed a Moriote merchant.
nearly opposite Ehodcs,
the
country
is
in
the
hands of a band of 400 Zebecks, commanded by Ali Bey, son of

the Aga of Chorgies, who has quan-elled with the other agas
of the district, and
is
In the
consequently in rebellion.
skii--
mishes that have taken place, the authorities, in most instances,
have been worsted.
boat sent from Ehodes to Phenika by a
merchant, to pay for some corn, with 100 on
by
iîi-ates
seventeen in numljcr, the day before
a small boat from the island of Sjoni,
There
is
was attacked
The same band,
yesterday attacked and sunk
and murdered the crew.
lioai'd,
near Myra, and the money taken.
great scarcity of food in the country.
At
Daliani the
people would not let
a Sardinian merchant load a cargo of corn,
but thi-eatened to
him
kill
if
he persisted.
Though the weather was not favourable during great part of

our journey, I have been enabled to take about thirty pliotographs
at Antiphellus, Cyaneaj,
and Myra.
347
APPENDIX.
A TOUE
IN MYTILENE BY MR.
IN
Ox
the 20tli of April
liust,
1854.
I
made
nortlieni coast of the island, accompanied
We
Consulate.
slept the first night at
proceeded to Molivo, taking
COLNAGHI,
D. E.
on the
exciu'sion
little
by
dragoman of the
Mandamatha, whence we
tlie
Mount Lepethj-mnos
We
in our route.
passed through the villages of Kappi, the inhabitants of which are

chiefly Turks,
and
Gelia,
Mount Lepethymnos.
for about an hoiu-, we
peak.s,
2,750
a
where we took a guide
for the ascent of
After clinilimg up a steep and stony road

reached the summit, which
furmed of two
is
of wliicli the highest, according to the Admii'alty chart,
is
Here
is
feet, rising lil<e
a tower out of
tlie rest
Greek chapel, but we looked
little
of the
liill.
any ancient
in vain for
I'emaiiis.
On
tills
mountain
hero Palamedes,
who
in antitputy
is
said to
of Apollo and a shrine of
tlie
The view from the summit
was a temple dedicated
lia'v'e
been buried here.
hero LepetliTOinos also stood

is
very
fine,
hei'e.
embracing in the distance
On
and Samotlirace.
Tenedcs, Imbros, Lemnos,
to the
A temple
the south a
foregi-ound of bold mountain-lines shuts out from view Port lero.
On
we went
descemlLng,
rowed
small rocky
to a
identifying
it
to Molivo, whence,
taking a boat,
island opposite Petra, in the
with the ancient Antissa.
we
hope of
Here, however,
we
could find no traces of an Hellenic occupation.
On
is
the
summit of the rock
at Petra
is
a small church, in wliich
a curious mediajval bas-relief witli a Byzantine inscription, of
which the
last
named
pei-son
word
is
BATATZI.
in the inscription.
Beneath are portiuits of the
On
the right are his wife and
Madonna and our Savioiu-. The Batatzi

mentioned in the inscription may possibly be John Ducas Batatzis,
who was Emperor at Constantinople from 1222 to 125-5. Near
child,
tlie
on the
church
women
the
a fountain, and two or three houses inliabited by

is
a fine view from
the top of this rock.
The
of Petra wear a cui'ious old-fashioned head-dress, rising
like a cone
with
is
There
nuns.
left
from the crown of the head.
a handkerchief.
Tlie face is
bomid round
348
APPENDIX.
From
tlie
Petra
we went
to Telonia, passing on
In the
village Skalocliori.
first
onr
part of oxir route
a baiTen and mountainous country with
little
way tlirougli
we travei-sed
In the
vegetation.
were rocks of strange fantastic forms, mostly composed
latter part
of pudding-stone.
The
village of Telonia
is
mountain overlooking a
valley,
where are the country
among
inhaliitants peeping out
the rich
of
hoiises
well situated on the slope of a rocky
fertile
the valouea
It contains about -300 families.
oaks.
Two
hours north of the
village
is
ruined church dedi-
cated to St. George, which I visited to find an inscription, which,

after
all,
with
At
St.
The country through which we jiassed

The slopes of the hills were covered
did not exist.
was rich and
beautiful.
and
corn,
the
in
were
valleys
called Rcfikia, about ten
a place
George, but nearer the sea,
is
well-culti^'ated
gardens.
minutes from the church of
a watercourse, wliich appears of
ancient workmanship.
The next day we

Batousa at
lofty I'ocks
seemed
At
8.
Telonia at G.30 a.m., and arrived at
left
a short distance from Telonia
we came
to
two
which rose as gates in the centre of the ravine, and
to shut out this part of the island
from the other.
We
passed through, and soon entered a beautiful valley, at the end of
which is Batousa, chiefly remarkable for a fine modern church.

The columns in the interior had all belonged to some ancient
In this part of the country the small ponies for which
biiilding.
M>i;ilene
is
celebrated
arc
bred.
From Batousa we went
to
Kalloni by the Ereso road, arriving at the îllage of Acherona at

noon.
In the afternoon I visited a liridge built across the river Prines,

Tlie
which flows through the plam of Kalloni to the gulf
It consists of
bridge is about two hours distant fi-om Acherona.
a single arch thrown across the stream
nearly 40
feet.
The arch
which are carefully
is
fitted
the width of the arch
is
formed of blocks of rough sandstone,

The lower
together without cement.
The vvorkmanship is evidently

inistic style.
Eoman, of perhaps about the same date as the aqueduct at Morea.
The bridge has been restored in modern times the arch is all that
blocks are cut in the
remains of the ancient
structui'c.
Near the bridge is the little chapel of St. Therapon, a medical

The country people, when ill, come here with a priest, and
saint.
remain one or two days. The priest performs a mass, and the
349
APPENDIX.
])atieiit crosses
Wlien
himself abundantly.
up
leaves, lie liaiigs
lie
a shred of his garment on a tree near the chapel, as a token that

his
malady
beliind.
left
is
little
covered with patches of old clothes.

Before the
superstition.
chapel
bush close by was quite

The Turks have the same
fragment of a granite
the
is
column which appears in situ, and near it is a simjile capital.

On
Thursday, 28th, the Holy Thursday of the Greek Church.
this day we saw the Archliishop of Methymna wash the feet of
twelve
priests,
coinmemoratioii of our Saviour washing
in
This
feet of the Apostles.
rite,
which
called
is
At an
performed once every seven years.
tlie
only
mrri'ipa, is
hour in the
early
morning all the nuns from the neighbouring convent had arrived,
and crowds of peasants from the villages were continually pouring
in,
The women from Ereso
dressed in their gala clothes.
all
wore white hoods with crimson

shoulders.
liorders,
In the courtyard of the
which hung down on their
metrojjolis, or Archbishoji's
had been
palace, a stage covered with gieen branches
lamps were placed in the four corners
At one end was
brass chandelier.
canopy of roses over

six chairs.
At the
his
head
the bishop's throne with
On
other end, steps led up to the stage.
was decked with green boughs to

palace itself, the loreparations were
a.
rejirescnt a grotto.
In the passage were a crowd of
In the
Priests were tying
great.
were rimniug about with gorgeous
one
on the other a fountain
candles together with jiarticoloured ribbons
hands.
and
on either side of the platform were
side of the courtyard vras a readiiig-desk,
dresses,
erected,
from the centre hung a
monks, in blue serge
clerical vestiu'es in their
and
laity
The
clergy.
chief psalm-singer of the diocese was in his gloiy, collecting his

choir,
When
and directing everybody.
the
ajipomted
hour,
10 a.m., arrived, there was a general rush into the courtyard.
The Reader,
to
Lu a magnificent crimson silk robe,
the reading-de.sk, accompanied
by the
chanting continued throughout the ceremony.

pairs,
attended by two deacons,
candles,
di-e.ssed
held in one hand lighted
They were
all
dressed in
lirilliaiit
a mean, ugly-looking
man
robes.
represented Jud;Ls.
in green, and was distinguished from
by being without the

hood.
whose
priests, in
of the neighbouring mouasteiy, a portly jsersonage,
personated Peter
He was
Twelve
the other a censer, advanced from the palace, and took
their seats on the stage.
The abbot
who
now advanced
Psalm-suiger.s,
Last of
all
lilack
jiriest's
cap,
tlie
others
and only wearing the
came the Ai'chbishop, preceded by three
360
APPENDIX.
He
deacons.
riclily
was
cb-essed
On
embroidered.
in a magnificent purple
bis liead
robe,
satiii
was the round black cap and
His Eminence w;is now unrobed by the attendant

more gorgeous garments.
First, there
was a ricli ]iiirple and gold I'olje in stripes, covered with small
flowers.
Over this was thrown a lilue satm surplice Avith
damasked flowers, bordered with a heavy gold fringe.
Gold
bLsbop's bood.
deacons, and clotbed in
embroidered gauntlets were fastened round his wrists, and by his
hung a squai'e purse, embroidered with gold on a green gi-ound.

Over this he woi-e a white satiu stole with a gold fringe. On either
side
was an enamelled miniature, representing a

His mitre was next placed on his head.
It resembles in shape an imjierial cro'W'n, above which is a round
red cap, richly embroidered with diamonds and other i)recious
stones ; on the top was a diamond cross.
The Ai'chbishop was a
side of his breast
subject from Scripture.
tine-looking
man
with a long black beard, and woi-e his gorgeous
vestments with a ceitain dignity.
The real business of the ceremony now began. A conversation

was carried on between the Archbishop and priests, from the New
Testament, as between our Saviour and the Apostles.
It ended
by the Archbishop saying, " I know that one of ye shall betray
me." Each priest asked in turn, " Lord, is it I i " The deacons
then took
roimd
oft'
the Bishop's stole, and tied an embroidered napkin
his waist
which done, one of them knelt down befoie the
m one hand and a.

ewer in the other.
He poured a little water over the towel,
which the Archbishop, kneeling, held in his hand. His Eminence
representative of St. Peter, with a silver basiu
just wetted the priest's foot, which had h;id a preparatory washing-
The priest kissed his mitre. This was I'e^jeated to each in turn.
Having resumed his robes, the Ai-chljishop, accompanied by Peter,
James, and John, left the platform. The three jjretended t(j fall
asleep, and the Bishop went to the gi-otto and prayed, in the
words of our Sa'\'iour. He returned thrice to the sleepers, and
then
said,
drama.
"Arise,
us be going.''
let
And
so
ended the sacred
All that remained was to kiss a sacred picture of our
Saviour, exhibited by the Archbishop from the platform
and
Both actors and
strange ceremony with the
great wâs the rush of peasants to do

spectators
seemed to witness
utmost reverence, and
all
with apparent devotion.
this
went through
We
this.
theii'
parts seriously and
returned the same day to Mjiiilene.
Eugrjivcil,
C.
T E 8
MouiuuL'nti Antichi nrl gnippo di
Va,siillo,
Periodo Fcnicio.
Malta.
Valletta, 18-31,
p.
17.
In E. Gerhard's Arcliaologische Zeituug, Berlin, 184:8, pp.

jiG-jl), 362-G7.
See Archajologia of Soc. Ant. London, xxix.
-
pp. 227-40,
where
%'iews of these ruins are given.
Maximus
'
Tacit. HLst.
Delia Marmora, in Nouvelles Annales de Flustitnt de Cor-
3.
ii.
Tyriiis, DLs.sert. viii. 8.
respondance Archeologique a Rome,
i.
'
G. Scliaif, in
p.
190, Avhere
Museum
tliLs
i.
p.
18.
of Classical Antiquities, Loudon, 18-51,
statue
is
Lebas, Voyage Archeo-
engraved.
logi(jue, moil. tig.

"
'
Labordc, Le Parthenon, Paris, 1848,

Eevue Archeologique Paris, 1844,
Parthenon,
ii.
ii.
pi.
i.
jjI.
2,>27.
Laliorde,
i.
Le
pi. 4.
Engraved in the Moiiunieuti of the Roman Archa?ological

Annali dell' Inst. Arch. Eom. 1847, p. 30-3.
This statue was found at Teuea, near Corinth.
^
IiLstitute, iv. pi. 44.
'
Sur
E. Gerhard,
les
jMonumen.s figures existant en
Grece.
Rome, 1837.
'"
See
1854,
1113"
remaihs on
these
coins.
Numismatic Chronicle,
p. 29.
" For a fuller account of the Amphiara'ioii, see Transactions
New
of the Royal Society of Literature,
Series, v.
Dr. Preller, Oropos und Ampliiaraeion, in Bcrichteu
chen Gesellschaft
1853,
pji.
d.
140-88;
Noi-thern Greece, iL
'"
Giittling,
Greece,
'^
ii.
ji.
Wissenschaften, Philol. Hist. Classe. Leijjsig,
Eangabe, Antiquites Hellenicjues

p.
Auuali
For the tombs
of some Ancient
Leake,
441.
Neue EheLu. Mus.

167.
107-52;
]ip.
d. k. Sjichsis-
i.
dell' Inst.
p.
IGl.
Mure,
Arch. Rom.
at Doganlu, see J. R. Steuart,
Monuments
in
Tour in
xvii. p. 1G8.
Description
Lydia and Phiygia,
London,
352
NOTES.
1842, aud other authorities, cited K. O.
Kunst,
Arcliiiologie d.
" Zosimus, Hist.
ii.
ed.
Weloker,
30
seq.,
35
p.
Handbuch
jMiiller,
d.
304.
seq.
" H. E. Dirksen, On the Building Act of the Emperor Zeuo,
Museum
'*
of Classical Antiquities,
Travels
Bertrandon
of
Johnes), Hafod, 1807,
Yon Hammer,
'"
1822,
i.
p.
de
i.
pp. 305-52.
Brocquiere (translation by
la
220.
p.
und
Constantinopolis
d.
Pesth,
Bosporos,
385, calls this Kahrije Djamissi, and states that
was
it
by Justinian and restored by Theodore Metochita, Chancellor

of Andronicus I.
built
For the history aud topography of Lesbos, see S. L. Plehn,

Berol. 1826, au excellent work
Zander,
Beitriige zur Kunde d. Insel Lesbos, Hamb. 1827; Tournefort,
Voyage du Levant, Lyons, 1727, ii. pp. 81-87; Pococke, DescripProkescli von
tion of the East, London, 1745, ii. pt. 2, pp. 15-21
''
Lesbiacorum Liber,
Osteu, Denkwiirdigkeiten aus

I'p.
771-79,
1837,
Orient, Stuttgart,
ii.
341-407; Boutau, Memoir sur Meteliu, in the
pp.
iii.
dem
Archives des Missions Scientifiques, Paris, 1856, vol. v. pp. 273-364;

InrofiiKuu (.yKwfiiov ti'iq vljaov Aiafiov, by Stavraki Anagnostes,
Sm3'rna, 1850.
This
last
work, written by a native of Lesbos,
contains some bad poetry in praise of the island, and a

villages,
'"
list
of its
with occasional information about the antiquities.
Strabo,
Diodor. xui. 79.
617.
xiii. p.
Longus, Pastoral.
I.
init.
'"'
i.
As for
instance, Cnidus, Halicaruassus,
Myndus.
See Thucyd.
7.
' Strabo,
"
-uXtuic.
Cf.
617.
xiii. p.
Thucyd.
Ai-Lstotle.
(j,
ibid.,
iii.
4,
-'
Plutarch, Vit. Pomp. 42.
-*
Vitruv.
^'
Cic. contr. Eull.
i.
wpfiovy ir
-i)
MaXt'a -pot Bopcav
and Grote, History of Greece,

Longus, Pastor.,
vi. p.
tT]q
305, note
1.
init.
6.
ii.
IG.
Such towers were probably used in the Greek islands from an

early pei'iod.
In Audros is a round tower certainly of the Hel-''
lenic period, with five stories
above a chamber in the basement, a
view of which
is
Archeologique.
Sec the description of
Griech. Inselu,
ii.
gi\-en
p.
13.
in the
There
folio
is
plates to
it,
a similar one in
p. 43).
'"
Lebas'
Voyage
L. Ross, Eeisen auf d.
Bijckh, Corpus luscript. Grec. Nos. 2172-4.
Naxos
{ibid.
353
NOTES.
"^
Compare the Atlieuiau dcdicaticm
TrXvi'elc,
Buckh, Corp.
"''
Xenophon, Hist.
'"
Thucyd.
='
Pococke,
Inscrijit.
No. 455.
Grsec.
6.
i.
to
tLe Nymjjhs
by the
No. 2182.
Pkhn,
3.
iii.
pt.
ii.
Bockh, C.
15.
p.
2,
I.
218.
p.
^-
In the Dionj'siac theatre at Athens several rows of chairs
names of
inscribed with the
and jiriests liave

two of these may be seen in the
Elgin Room of the British Museum.
See also Biickh, C. I. 5-308,
been recently discovered
chief magistrates
casts of
53G9, for the inscriptions in the theatre at SjTacuse.

"'
Suida-s,
^^
See
Afa/jwitii.
s. v.
my
Strabo,
^ ^lian, Var. Hist.

^ No. 216G.
^di.
Strabo,
^*
See the descrijition of thLs
N. H.
Plin.
v. 31, 39.
site in
M. Boutan's Memou- on
p.
iii.
350.
the return of exiles to Lesbos in the time of Alexander
the Great, see Bbckh, C.
I.
^ Hence in the ancient

History of Discoveries,
'
712.
p.
See also Prokesch von Osten, Deukwiirdigkeiteu aus
Orient,
Ou
618.
xiii. p.
Mytilene.
'"'
G17.
15.
"
dem
xiii. p.
History of Discoveries at HaUcaruassus, &c.
p.
No. 216G; Plehn, pp. 77, 78.

the formula
Dii-aj
Archestrat. ap. Athenseum,
^ This wall
is
ifioi Si
lima.
See
my
723.
described by
iii.
Ill, F.
p.
M. Boutan
in his
memoir already
cited, p. 318.
"
Hist.
" On
Anim.
thLs
v. 10, 2, and 13, 10.

law of custom, see a memoir by Mr. Hawkins, in
Walpole's Travels in Turkey, London, 1820,

*^
iii.
Homer, Hymn,
in
Bacchum,
44.
p.
392.
Ovid, Met.
iii.
582. Apollod.
5, 3.
* Deiotarus
century B.C.
Bogodiataros,
Tolistobogii,
the name of two nilers of Galatia in the 1st

With the name Allobogiona may be compai-ed
the name of a Galatian chief (Strabo, xii. p. 567)
is
one of the three principal tribes of Galatia
Phuibagina, the
name
of a town
among
and
the Trocmi in the same
province, according to Ptolemy.
" Strabo,
xiii. p.
617.
See the
map
in Plelm'swork.
M. Bou-
tan places .lEgiros at Xero Castro, near Parakoila, on the western

side of the
Gulf of Kalloni, where he found a Greek
2 A
A'crojjolis,
354
NOTES.
He
with polygonal masonry.

iEgiros
states that this place
but the situation does not the
is still
called
correspond with the
least
Methymna and
statement of Strabo that ^giros was between

Mytilene.
**
In another of these inscriptions a crown is decreed by the

ôlis to Ai'istojahanes, son of Aristophon, on account of his
public services.
There is also mention of a temple of Athene.
tribe
Buchon,
Froissart, ed.
For the coins of
Finlay, HLstory of
xiv. p. 52, et seq.
Byzantine and Greek Empires, 1854,
573.
p.
Kbhne, Memoires de
this family see B.
Societe d'Archeologie et de Niimismatique
de
St.
la
Petersbourg,
p. 475, and iv. p. 110; Pindar und Friedliinder, Beitriige zur

Munzkunde, p. 29.
^ In addition to these arms, there is sculptured on a wall, a
shield bearing the arms of Gatelusio, impaling the eagle of the
iii.
Emjiire, with an augmentation in chief too defaced for identifica-
tion
two crowned
^^
Engraved Stuart's Athens,
'^
This subject
K. O.
Miiller,
is
On
lions are supporters.
Bembo
wall are sculptiu'ed the arms of
pi.
iii.
another part of the
of Venice.
45.
repeated in the ciuious relief at Paros, engraved
Denkmaler
d.
a.
Kunst,
ed.
Wieseler, Tav. 63,
No. 814.
^^
Ai-chaologische Zeitung, 1848,
This inscription commences
cal lines
'^'^
p.
109*.
oi'acle itself
Transactions of Poyal Society of Literatiu-e, 2nd

ii.
p.
The metri-
MfioQ Kara -xpriffôi'.
which follow may therefore be the
don, 1847,
.''
series,
Lon-
258.
Since these remarks have been written, the site of the hUl
above Bournarbashi has been carefully examined by Mr. Calvert,
who
places here the ancient Gergithos (see his
of Gergithos, Archseological Journal, 1864,
Von Hahn, who
has
made excavations
Memou- on
here,
the site
by Dr.
and has discovered
p. 48),
and
also
remains of an ancient acropolis, which he believes to be that of

Troy.
See his memoir, Die Ausgrabungen auf d. Homer. Pergamos. Leipzig, 1865.
^
In the former of these
inscriptions, Claudius is styled Sodalis
Titius, as well as Augustalis.
His
titles
are identical with those
in an inscrijjtion from Pola. Henzen, luscript. Latin. Collectio.

Turic. 1856, No. 5399.
^"
PocOcke, Travels,
ii.
pt. 2, p. 110.
355
NOTES.
""
See Mr. Calvert's Memoir
Journal, 1860,
''
See
"-
du Bospliore
Antiqnites
Introduction,
18o-i,
on Opliryninni, Avchfeological
291.
p.
The vases found
cimmerien,
Flasks for
and unguents
oils
Figures occurred on several vases
On
cases, Dionysiac.
called hylil-es
{lekythi
and
and
aryhalli).
the subjects were, in several
one of the lekythi was represented a figure
In subject and drawing,
driving a higa.
Petersburg,
in the pithoi consisted of the following kinds
Two-handled drinking-eups, of the shapes

hothones.
St.
p. .37.
this vase-picture resembled
All the cups were turned

downwards, their mouths resting on the lower side of the jnthos.
those of a late period found at Athens.
The shallow cups contained bones and earth compacted together

by pressure. With these vases were found two small bottles of
blue glass inlaid with yellow, and a terra-cotta relief, 6J inches
high, representing the upper
On
Aphrodite.
her head
is
half of a female
a necklace
perhaps
Round her neck
a veil hangs down behind, over her shoulders.

is
figui'e,
a kind of crown, or tiara, from which
her hands are placed one on each breast.
terra-cotta is in a
good
style,
This
but rather carelessly executed.
fragment fi-om a thin marble slab inscribed
nv0A:AnE
sÊAiory.
^'^
In the Villa Albani
at
Rome
is
a marble
the interview between Alexander and Diogenes.

the pitJws in this relief
^
Mr.
J.
Many
Brunton.
11.5).
vases,
representing
It
curious that
mended with
were discovered in excavations on the
and some early

p.
represented
from Birch, Hist, of Pottery,
It appears
pithoi
is
relief,
i.
is
rivets.
188, that similar
site of old Dai'danus,
by
small leh/thi, resembling those at Athens,
have likewise been foimd there
(ibid.
ii.
Bii-ch states (ibid.) that lehjthi resembling those
INIr.
from Athens have been found at the supposed tomb of Achilles

in the Troad.
"=
N. H. 34,
c.
inadvertently cited
^
My
Biliotti,
3G, and ibid. c. 7, 42, where the number of

Rhodes is stated to be 100, not 300, as I have
6,
colossal statues at
it
in the text.
information resiiecting this head

the wife of
who remembers
M.
C.
Biliotti,
the head on her
first
is
derived from
Mme.
British Vice-Consul at Scio,

arrival at Rhodes.
356
"'
p.
NOTES.
Voyages
Thevenot,
117, states tliat
lie
dans
saw
Eng.
Levant,
le
this
Transl.
head over the
1G87,
Catherine
St.
but that, some years before his visit, it had been removed
from the gate looking towards the den of the dragon, by which
Other
it is to be presumed that he means the Amboise gate.
travellers state they saw the head over St. John's gate (see A.
gate,
Berg, Die Insel Ehodus, Braunschweig, 1862, pt.

is jiossible,
that the head
therefore,
may have
i.
j).
It
90).
been shifted from
gate to gate.
L. Ross,
Inscriptiones Grsecse Ineditw,
his Eeisen auf
den GriechLsclien Tnseln,
iii.
iii.
p.
No. 274.
See
After the
84.
John by an explosion in 1856,

this inscription was presented by the Pasha of Rhodes to H.E.H.
the Prince of Wales on his visit to Rhodes.
destruction of the church of St.
"'
L. Ross, Reisen,
''"
A. Berg, Die Insel Rhodus,
"
''"
Ibid. pt.
ii.
56.
iv. p.
pt.
ii.
p. 44.
pp. 60, 72.
Ibid. pt. IL p. 38.
From this inscription it appears that there were two knights

name about the same period. The one was Tarcopolier
The
1500, and died in 1502, as we see by this inscription.
~^
of this
in
other was Bailiff of Caspe and Cantaniei-a, and also BaUifF of Eagle
(in CO. Line.) in 1513. He was sent at the close of the year 1517 into
England to entreat aid against the Turks. Having obtained some
assistance, he was returning to Rhodes, when he was driven by a
tempest back to the coast of England, where he and his followei-s
Three original letters from him to
perished in August, 1552.
Cardinal Wolsey,' in 1517, are preserved in Cotton MSS., Otho,
C. ix.
" The form AivlowoKiTai in this inscription may be compared

with kindred forms, Ross, Inscript. Ined. iii. No. 265.
"* The name of this sculptor is not given in the list of Greek
artists in
H. Brunn's Geschichte.
'"^
Guerin, Voyage dans
'"
Guillelmi Caom-sin, Rhodiorum Vice-Cancellarii, Obsidionis
I'ile
de Rhodes, Paris, 1856,
Rhodie Urbis Descriptio, Ulm, 1496,
p.
8.
Cf
p. 169.
Berg,
pt.
i.
p. 56.
'*
Ross, Reisen,
''
Ross, Archaokigische Aufsiitze, Leipsig, 18G1, pt.
*"
With
iii.
p. 86.
these ox-naments
may
ii.
pp. 384-89.
be compared an ear-ring, found
357
NOTES.
with Byzantine gold coins in the island of Calymnos,
now
" Lucian.
Pliilopseud. ed.
Boss, Archaologische Aufsjitze, pt.
8^
Herod,
182.
Strabo, xiv. p. 655.
N.H.
Pliny,
20.
c.
p.
ii.
393.
Diodoras, v. 58.
xix. 1, 12.
Schol. ad Pindar. Olynip.
Btickh,
vii. ed.
ii.
1.59.
p.
^*
Ross, Inscriptiones Inedita^,
^ Ross, Reisen,
ii.
Lehmann,
^^
ii.
wliicli ia
Museum.
in the British
Ross, Reisen,
map
it
is
iii.
No. 273.
Hamilton, Travels in Asia Minor,
p. 73.
Leake, Asia Minor,
p. 55.
"'
iii.
225, note.
p.
67, calls this place Giannari
iv. p.
and in
liis
The name
erroneously placed near Apolakkia.
is
pronounced Yannathi.
*"
The name Mesanagros is evidently ficiroyaypoc, a place

way between the two coasts. Comjsare Mesotopo, tlie name
half-
of a
village in Mytilene.
^ Compare aKpoXidnc.
See the view of this
*^
Rhodus,
wall, Berg,
pt.
ii.
151, where
p.
the ornaments are veiy inaccurately rendered.
^ Birch, Histoi-y of Ancient Pottery, i. p. 252.

"'
The ruins on the shore are described, Ross, Reisen,
iv. p.
G2
Gucrin, pp. 248-50.

"-
W.
J.
Hamilton, Travels,
Ross, Reisen,
p. 61.
ii.
ui.
ji.
107.
Guerin, pp. 261-65.

"'
Meursius, Rhodus,
" See ante, note 44.

'* For the Anerades
Glossarium
Hesychius,
p. 85.
Reisen,
see Ross,
Gi'cBCO-bai-baiiim,
GriBco-barbarse, aypuirrTh'at,
s.
iii.
Nepaceg
v.
v.
s.
op/Bwrfc.
p.
45
I'tpaÊc opcirol.
rvj-iipai oi)f io(,
Meursius,
Nymphse,
Glossre
It appears
from G. von Hahn, Albanesische Studien, Jena, 1854, p. 163, that

it is believed that men are sometimes born with tails
in Albania
resembling those of goats or horses.

ftpoKuXam.
i.
p.
See
ibid,
on the
belief in the
Compare Tom-nefort, Voyage du Levant, Lyon, 1727,
158.
^ In antiquity, one month, three months, and a year, were in like

manner periods of mourning.
See K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch d.
Griech. Privataltertliiimer,
="
'
191
Cotton MS. Otho,
39.
c. ix.
For an account of these MSS.,

;
Gucriji,
Descrijjtion
de
see Ross, Reisen,
File
de
ii.
pp. 187,
Patmos, Paris,
185C,
358
NOTES.
H. O. Coxe, Report to H.M.'s Government on

Greek MSS. in Levant, London, 1588.
pp. 101-20; Rev.
'
Ross,
""*
""^
ii.
179.
p.
Sandys, Travels, London, 161.5,

Ross,
On
p. 89.
pp. 136, 137.
ii.
see Waddington, Re\'iie JSTumismatique,

They were probably struck at Miletus.
^"^
The connection of Calymna with lassos is shown by an
inscription, Bockh, C. I. No. 2G71.
On this title see the authorities cited, K. F. Hermann,
Lehrbuch d. Gottesdienstl. Alterthlimer, 35, n. 17.
these
coins,
Paris, 1856, p. 61.
'^"^
^'^
See the remarks on this type of Venus, Smith
&
Porcher,
Discoveries at C3Tene, London, 1864, p. 96.

""^
my
See
History of the
Budrum
Expedition, pp.
Waddington, in Reîie Numismatique, 1856, pp. 53-60.

"" For a description and
engi'a\-ings of this tholos,
ArchaologLsche Aiifsatze,
Zeitung, 1850,
1(18
jap.
Theocr. Id.
389-93,
pt. ii. pp.
241-44; Reisen,
iii.
pi. v.
131,
iv. p.
590-1
see Ross,
Ai-chaologische
17.
See Scholiast on this passage.
vii. 6.
lOD
Abeken, Mittelitalien, pp. 190-97. Bunsen, Beschreibung

Roms, iii. 1, p. 259, et seq. E. Braun, RuLnen und Mus. Roms,
p. 26.
Cf Canina,
Descr. di Tusc.
pi. xiv. for
a simUar buUding at
Tusculum.
^^ See the reference cited ante, note 56.
tion of the Necropolis near Kalavarda
Salzmann, and the identification of this
The subsequent exploraby Messrs. Biliotti and
site
with Kamii-os, wiU be
noticed in the 2nd volume of this work.

'" Ross, Inscript. Ined.
iii.
"^ Transact.
Lit.
Royal Soc.
"^ Engi-aved, Berg,
removed
Rhodus,
to the Pasha's
konak
"^ Ross, Inscript. Ined.

"= Ibid, ii
"" Ibid.
iii.
No. 277.
2nd
ii.
p.
series,
iii.
p. 1.
109. This relief has been since
at Rhodes,
where I
.saw it in 1863.
No. 309.
No. 175.
No. 311.
Plutarch, Qufest. Gr. 58.
"'
Now
^'^
Millingen, Ancient Unedited
in the British
Museum.
"' Ross, In.script. Ined.
iii.
Monuments,
pi. vii.
No. 303.
"" Walpole,
''
and
Memoirs relating to Turkey, p. 565.

Rhodes was celebi'ated in antiquity as the island of
it is
serpents,
certain that very large snakes have been seen there
by
359
NOTES.
credible witnesses at
present clay
tlie
bence, pevliaps, the origin
Eoss, Eeisen,
of the legend of tbe dragon.
pp. D3-95, supposes
iii.
tbis monster to have been a crocodile brougbt from Egypt in some
sbip
an improbable
'--
For views of
Eottier,
'*
'-^
Monumens
Now
Now
and of the
de Rhodes,
pll.
frescoes in the
o8-G7,
crj-jit,
see
c.
Museum.
Museum.
in the British
in the British
-^ See T.
ii.
conjecture.
this chapel
Wright, Narratives of Sorcery and
INIagic,
i.
p.
170,
pp. 90, 100, 161, 211, 283, for instances of this superstition.
-^"
At
'"'
the rate of 118 jiiastres to the poiind sterling.
am
written, the
glad
'"'
Eoss, Eeisen,
"" Eoss, EeLsen,
hospital has been set in order.
iii.
init.
iv.
ja.
10.
Yqj^ Halm, Alban. Studien,
130
remarks have been
since these
that
state
to
Smyrna
p.
150, note, mentions tins
a.s
an Albanian custom.
am
"^ I
assured by Mr. Alfred Biliotti, British Vice-Consul at
Ehodes, and by other credible pei-sons resident in the Archipelago,

they have seen divers descend
that
thii-ty
I cannot,
fathoms.
however, hear of any well-authenticated instance of a diver
remaining under water more than two minutes,

Sjjratt
and Forbes, Lycia,
ii.
much.
if as
See
p. 125.
"" Spratt and Forbes, Lycia, ii. p. 1 27.

"' See K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch d. Gottesd. Alterth.
19, 18.
'*'
See the remarks on this type of Aênus, Smith and Porcher,
Cyrene,
ji.
96.
^'^
K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch
130
'pjjjg
inscription
obtained for
me by
now
is
d.
Griech. Staats
in the British
Altei-tli.
142.
Museum, having been
tbe kind intervention of a friend at Calyinnos
in 1858.
Engraved with two
Venice, Eoss, Eeisen,
ii.
otlier coats,
"^ Eoss, Inscript. Ined.

" Birch, History of
For
'*"
p.
is
Quirini of
No. 179.
ii.
i.
p.
233.
No. ISO.
These are probably tbe coins noticed
Chronicle, ix.
note
ii.
Ancient Pottery,
" Eoss, Inscript. Ined.

^"
one of which
p. 92.
bj- Borrell,
Numismatic
165.
this word, see Leake's Travels in the
Meursius, Glossarium Grajco-Barbanim,
s.
Morea,
v.
i.
p.
fiero^wy.
366,
360
NOTES.
^^ Ross, Inscript. Ined.

'" Pliny,
^^
On a
ManoU the
N.H.
ii.
No. 187.
V. 3G.
visit to
Rhodes
in
1863, I was glad to hear that
Cassiote had ceased to reign in Calymnos, and that he
had migi-ated to Budnim. Whether his

decreed by ostracism, I could not learn.
was voluutary or
"" Classical
^^
exile
Museum, v. pp. 170 201.

Views on the Sliores of the Mediterranean, by the Hon.
Captain
W.
B. Devereux, R.N., 18i7.
END OF VOL.
cox iND WIMAN, PBISTEES,
GMAT
I.
(JCHEIT 5TEBBI, LONDO.t, W.C.
<%
Q^-9lln^\(a
<HE GETTY CfiNTEfi
UHttRY
f7-')^Q"
'iiOl
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C T Newton Travels and Discoveries in The Levant Vol 1 of 2

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C T Newton Travels and Discoveries in The Levant Vol 1 of 2

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HIGH SCHOOL OF GLASGOW.

The Hon. the LORD PROVOST, MAGISTRATES,

The Hos. Sib JAMES LUMSDEX, Lord Provosi.

Wm. Kae Arthur,

Jaues L. Lasq, Esq.

JAMES WATSON, Esq., Convener.

MATHEMATICAL & COMMESCIAL DEPARTMENT.

Fob proficiency, DILIGENCE, & GOOD CONDUCT,

DISCOVERIES IN THE LEVANT.

tVuin Admiralty (hart j\"lb67

Ui/*Sro lith"totie pneen

TRAVELS & DISCOVERIES

EEEPEB OF THE GBEEE AND ROMAN ANTIQUITIES, BRITISH UUSE0U.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

TWO VOLUMES. VOL.

DAY & SON, LIMITED,

'[All rights reserved."]

THE GETTY CENTER

second volume of the present work will be

found a popular account of

Asia Minor, abridged fi'om the larger work, entitled

History of Discoveries at Halicarnassus, Cnidus,

The plans and

reduced from the plates in Vol.

which accommanner, been

sculptures from the

by three engraved plates repeated from Vol.

the former work, and by eleven photographs fi-om

for the first time published.

of Caria, engraved for

work imder the supervision of the

Washington, has been used in the present work by

permission of Captain Richards,

position of Lagina, as noted by Lieut. Smith,

R.B., has been added to this Map,

IMalta Ruins Krendi Roman

Tombs near Bengemma

Acropolis Archaic Athene

Sculptiu-es in the The-

Warrior from Marathon Sepulchral Coins

tion of the City since

A Greek BaptismThe Marble

Chair of Potamo, son of Lesbonax

Agriculture in Asia Minor

British Consular Protection

Amount Exported from Mji;ilene

Levantine Steamer Tour with Mr. Hughes Ayasso

Marine Products in Gulf of Kalloni noticed by

An-ival of Mr. J. E. Blunt

Chapel cut in the rock

Nehad EffendiTijaret Mejlis Castle of

The IncantadasThe Arch

Relief of Pan and the NjTnphs at

the Discovery of a Thief

Harbours and Arsenals

Church of St. John

Costunie of the Rliodian Peasant Women Castle

Journey to Lindoa The Castle The

The Castle Inscription

Visit to Cos in the

ing Letter from

Lord C.'s lUness

Anecdote of a former Pasha of Rhodes