Canadian Jeweller Magazine February March 2009

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009
125
OVER YEARS
IN THE BUSINESS OF
RETAILING JEWELLERY
canadian jeweller Just Watch Me

magazine Watch trends and price
points that will shape 2009
Business from the Heart

Donations can make you and
your bottom line feel good
The Ideal Marriage

Make the most of diamond
sales by focusing on the
bridal sector
An Illustrious
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8
A Question of Colour
Appraising fancy
colour diamonds
Mix n’ Match
Diversifying your merchandise
Legacy
Judy Richards of Davidson’s Jewellers, Ottawa
to meet customer needs
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
002.CJ Siffari ad.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 9:47 AM Page 44
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 96.
A Tradition in Excellence...
Canada’s leading ring and

jewellery manufacturer
Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited., 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2
Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111
www.siffari.com email: contact@siffari.com
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The Annual E XCELLENCE iN
design
Award Ceremony & Reception
130th Anniversary Celebration
September 13th - 15th, 2009
To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact
Olivier Felicio at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.
For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact

Melissa Badr at melissa@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 X6118.
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ESTABLISHED 1879 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 • VOL . 130, NO . 1
Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
Bryan Soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | bryan@rivegauchemedia.com

Emily Saso Associate Editor | emily@rivegauchemedia.com
Nikki Yeh Associate Editor | nikki@rivegauchemedia.com
Paul Aguirre Editorial Assistant | paul@rivegauchemedia.com
Scott Jordan Designer | design@rivegauchemedia.com

Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Christine Ager-Smyth Production Manager | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
CONTRIBUTORS Philip Feder, Robin Gambhir, Barbara Kingstone

Duncan Parker, Marie Powell, Jérôme Scullino,
Bonnie Siegler, Claire Sykes, Mirelle Theriault,
Anita Webster
SALES
Lucy Holden INTERNATIONAL SALES MANAGER/
MARKETPLACE
TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117
EMAIL lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
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TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122
EMAIL jyamaguchi@promediacommunications.com
Melissa Badr CIRCULATION MANAGER

TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6118 FAX (416) 703-6392
EMAIL melissa@rivegauchemedia.com
Michele Aubie RECEPTION

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EMAIL frontdesk@rivegauchemedia.com
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Change of Address
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Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
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1435 St. Alexander #455 the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration
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8 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

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table of
Contents
February/March 2009
Features
36 Global Impact
The mining industry’s year ahead.
38 Just Watch Me
The watch styles and price points to stock up on for 2009.
46 Combining the New with the Old

Technology’s role at the bench.
52 The Ideal Marriage

Why focusing on the bridal sector for diamond sales is a good idea.
60 An Illustrious Legacy
An interview with the Owner of Davidson’s Jewellers, Judy Richards.
60
66 Mix n’ Match
Diversifying your inventory for all the right reasons.
70 Re-examining Your Buying Strategies

Why less could mean more in the New Year.
72 Business from the Heart

Professional and personal rewards of charitable giving.
78 How Responsible Are We?

Tracing the jewellery industry’s development.
82 Cost and Effect

What to expect from the precious metals market in 2009.
38

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table of
Contents
February/March 2009
Departments 56
14 Director’s Note
16 Product Showcase
22 Who’s News
DiCaprio signs with TAG Heuer; Rio Tinto executive retires;
Barrick Gold appoints new CEO.
86 Editorial Board
26 For the Record
Daniel Espinosa gives back; Jewellery retail numbers in; World 88 What’s On
Peace Egg at the ROM; $10K diamond necklace hits the slopes.
32 Stock Index
90 Showcase
34 Mining News
92 Marketplace
Teck Cominco cuts jobs; IGC and Nkwe merge;

Rio Tinto adjusts.
96 Fax Back
42 Face Value 97 Last Word

Appraising fancy colour diamonds.
48 Market Watch
The challenges and rewards of online diamond searches.
56 Company Profile
Pandora
74 Designer Profile
Amanda Brighton
84 Star Watch
Just how golden were The Globes?
84
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director’snote
Price vs. Value

Photo: Davide Bagnoral
Price is detailed as the sum of money expected or given for the sale of something, or the
cost at which something is obtained. Value, meanwhile, is defined as an amount
regarded as a fair equivalent for a good or service.
The best example I can give you in regards to the true difference between the two was
an experience I had while shopping at an electronics store a few years ago. As I pulled
into the parking lot, I noticed another car, a beautiful sedan with a six-figure price tag,
pull up right beside me. A distinguished-looking gentleman stepped out and we walked
into the store nearly side-by-side. As I made my way through the aisles, I came across
this man again, who was talking with one of the sales people. He seemed a bit agitated
as he was questioning the prices of cordless phones. I couldn’t help myself as I craned
my neck over, and noticed that the model he was grousing about sold for $39.95. This
coming from a man who spent in excess of $100,000 on an automobile!
Lately, I’ve noticed several jewellery retailers adorning their windows with discount
and sale signs, urging people to come in and take advantage of the low, low prices.
However, much like that man in the electronics store, the price is irrelevant if the
shopper does not truly believe he or she is receiving value for their hard-earned dollars.
This falls directly in line with a commonly held notion of what components make up
a successful brand: image, quality, reputation, satisfaction and value. I’m sure you
noticed that price is not included in this mix. That’s why going the discount route
doesn’t fit many retailers. Instead of enticing new business, it can devalue the store’s
image, which in turn can even disrupt sales activity from regular clients.
So, instead of focusing on price, ask yourself this question: Are my customers getting
value at my store? Do I provide the products and services that they believe deliver an
exceptional return on their investment? Hopefully the answer is yes. If not, then it’s time
to take a serious look at your business model and figure out how to deliver on a value
promise that will not only encourage your current clientele, but also motivate them to
recommend your store to others.
Bryan Soroka
To your success,
Bryan Soroka
Director, Editorial & Communications

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productshowcase
Champagne Diamonds by Rare & Precious Gems

Champagne diamonds occur in a range of soft and exotic
hues and are the most universally appealing and
affordable of all natural coloured diamonds. The warm
hues and rich earth tones of champagne and cognac
diamonds are complimentary to all skin types when set in
finely crafted jewellery. For more information, write 109
on the Free Info Card on page 96.
Canadian Diamonds Mined, Cut and Polished in Canada

Diarough Canada has its own cutting and polishing factory in
Canada where it manufactures its own Canadian diamonds.
The origin is certified by the mark of conformity MCP
Canada, delivered by a governmental organization to
guarantee transparency and traceability. Each diamond has
its own serial number laser inscribed on the girdle and comes
with a certificate of authenticity and grading report from an
independent laboratory. For more information, write 110 on
the Free Info Card on page 96.
Uni-Design Canada
Uni-Design Canada is committed to excellence, quality and
to its customers’ needs and success. The Company embodies
the philosophy and strength from its international group of
companies, Uni-Design/Diarough/Mahendra Brothers.
Uni-Design Canada concentrates in mid-range to higher-
end diamond jewellery, including its assortment
of Canadian diamond bridal, solitaires and fashion.
Uni-Design Canada prides itself on its exceptional customer
service by specializing in developing designs, offering
exclusive client-specific programs, test marketing, repairs
and special orders. For more information, write 111 on the
Free Info Card on page 96.

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productshowcase
Colour is Primary
Since 1988, Byrex Gems Inc. has been synonymous with
the finest quality coloured gemstones. With unparalleled
global sourcing expertise and exceptional craftsmanship,
including the development of the Authentic Optix cutting
technique, Byrex has continued to build a reputation for
industry-class quality, turnaround and customization.
For more information, write 113 on the Free Info Card on
page 96.
Atlantic Rings
For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an
industry leader, and as third generation jewellers, has
taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the
wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring
coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an
expression of individuality. Each ring produced at
Atlantic is made of seamless tubing and is cut with
diamond tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art
European machinery. No ring leaves the factory without
extensive quality control. For more information, write
114 on the Free Info Card on page 96.
Mirage Wedding Bands

Mirage Creations introduces its newest line of fine
wedding bands — Classical, Modern or Vintage designs
manufactured in Canada. All styles are available as
eternity or semi-eternity. Eternity styles start at 0.25 ctw.
to meet all retail price points. Over 250 designs to choose
from as well as customized rings, which are CAD/CAM
produced in one week. For more information, write 115
on the Free Info Card on page 96.

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who’snews
Barrick Gold Appoints

Aaron Regent
Find out who is On December 23, Peter Munk, Founder
making headlines in and Chairman of Barrick Gold Corporation
announced that Aaron Regent has been
the jewellery industry. appointed President and Chief Executive
Officer of the Company, effective January
16, 2009.“Aaron’s outstanding strategic
New OMEGA Ambassador capabilities and highly-focused results
OMEGA is pleased to announce that actress orientation will fit in well with Barrick’s
Zhang Ziyi is joining its select group of unique corporate culture,” said Munk.
brand ambassadors, which includes fellow Mr. Regent, 43, is a chartered accountant
and an experienced executive with Dick Evans
actors George Clooney and Nicole Kidman.
Zhang Ziyi has appeared in over 16 movies combined expertise in the mining and
finance sectors. He was the Senior Rio Tinto Alcan
including Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, Executive to Retire
House of Flying Daggers and Memoirs of Managing Partner of Brookfield Asset
Management Inc. and Co-CEO of its Mr. Dick Evans, the Chief Executive of Rio
a Geisha. Tinto Alcan, has given notice of his
Zhang is particularly looking forward to Infrastructure Group and was previously
the President of Falconbridge Limited. intention to retire and to step down from
working with the Swiss watchmaker. “I love the boards of Rio Tinto on April 20, 2009,
OMEGA’s watch-making heritage,” she said. “Barrick is a dynamic mining enterprise
and an iconic Canadian company,” said Mr. after the Rio Tinto Annual General
“They have a great legacy and history, Meetings. Current President and CEO of
including their presence in China, of which Regent. “In these times in particular, gold is
a unique property as a store of value that is Primary Metal Jacynthe Côté, who will also
I am very pleased to be part of.” join the Company’s executive committee,
Zhang Ziyi is the highest-ranking woman emerging as an asset class of increasing
importance. I am really pleased to join the will succeed Mr. Evans.
on Forbes’ list of China’s most powerful Executive responsibilities were given to
celebrities. The magazine also rates her as Company at a time that is both exciting and
challenging for the gold industry.” Côté, who joined the Company in 1988, on
the woman with the greatest amount of February 1, 2009. Ms. Côté was responsible
social influence in China. Mr. Regent assumes his new role from
Barrick Founder and Chairman Peter for all primary metal facilities and power
Munk, who has been Acting CEO since generation installations worldwide and has
earlier this year. exceptional experience in the aluminum
industry. She has previously served as
President and CEO of the Bauxite and
New Creative Director at Garrard Alumina business group and has also held
London-based designer Stephen Webster has senior management roles in business
been named the new Creative Director of planning, human resources, environment
the world’s oldest jewellery house, Garrard. and health and safety.
The designer has been signed on to bring an
innovative and modern touch to the
Garrard collections, while maintaining its
illustrious heritage.
To this end, one of the first projects that
he will be designing will feature three
dynamic collections: a new women’s range
in a combination of red, black and white
gemstones; a bold men’s range, inspired
by the British sportsman, in a mix of black,
green, brown and gold, and the recently
announced Georgina Chapman for
Garrard collection, due to be launched
next autumn.
Zhang Ziyi
Jacynthe Côté

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who’snews
Russell Simmons Presented the

2009 GEM Award for Style
On January 9, the Jewelry Information Center
(JIC) held its annual GEM Awards in
Manhattan. Russell Simmons, who launched
the Def Jam music label and Phat Farm
clothing line, was given the Award
for Style in Innovation and Design for
Simmons Jewelry Co.’s versatile and
modern jewellery collections.
The JIC honours companies and
individuals that promote fine jewellery and Mila Bonini
design, as well as watches. Simmons received
the prize for his inventive design and New Communications Manager for
philanthropic efforts, which include the Responsible Jewellery Council
founding of the Diamond Empowerment The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has
Fund (DEF), a charity that donates proceeds announced that Mrs. Mila Bonini will be the
from his specially designed “Green Bracelet” Council’s new Communications Manager.
to underdeveloped communities in Africa. Based out of London, England, the Council
Simmons Jewelry Co.’s collections can is an international not-for-profit organization
currently be found at premier jewellers in representing over 80 member companies
Calgary and Toronto. across the gold and diamond jewellery supply
chain. Prior to this new appointment, for
seven years, Mrs. Bonini was the Senior
Communications Representative for the
World Jewellery Confederation, making her
very well known throughout the industry.
With the RJC, Mrs. Bonini will be
responsible for the development and
executive of the Council’s public relations
efforts. She will also liaise with various
Leonardo DiCaprio
Companies, industries, organizations,
stakeholders, and the media. Working
from Milan, she will also produce
Leonardo DiCaprio Inks Deal the Council’s external materials.
with TAG Heuer
Luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer has added Sterling Mining Names
Leonardo DiCaprio to its lineup of brand New CEO & Treasurer
ambassadors. DiCaprio is replacing Brad Sterling Mining recently announced the
Pitt for the brand as his contract ended last appointment of John P. Ryan as President
month. The 34-year-old actor will star in and Chief Executive Officer and Ron Ho
the Company’s “What Are You Made Of ” as Corporate Secretary and Treasurer, both
campaign, joining the list of other notable effective immediately. Mr. Ryan was also
celebrities to endorse the timepieces such named to the Board of Directors of the
as pro golfer Tiger Woods and actress Company. In the official company release,
Uma Thurman. Mr. Ryan noted: “I’m looking forward to
DiCaprio will be promoting TAG Heuer’s the hands-on challenge of continuing the
signature 43-millimeter Carrera Day-Date renewal of the Sunshine Mine. I am excited
chronograph along with other products. to chart a path forward for the Company
The star, who has long been a champion and the mining operation.” Mr. Ryan has
for environmental causes and animal extensive experience with developmental
welfare, negotiated that part of the royalties companies, and currently serves on the
generated from select TAG Heuer pieces, board of directors of U.S. Silver and is one
and his own fees, be donated to a yet-to-be- of its three co-founders. Mr. Ho has 10
determined environmental organization, Model Heidi Albertsen, wearing a years of corporate financial experience,
although contract details have not Simmons Jewelry Co. necklace, and most recently as Chief Financial Officer
Russell Simmons at the GEM Awards.
been released. of SNS Silver Corporation. [CJ]

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Email: info@wengersltd.com
Fax: 514-337-4581 Toll-free: 800-561-3214 CORPORATE INCENTIVES
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news trends events
GJEPC Calls Off Appeal supporting the appeal to cease the import of Mr. Mehta also stressed that the GJEPC
The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion rough diamonds for one month. Although would take all possible steps to mitigate the
Council (GJEPC) called off its appeal to the global situation has not improved — risks for its members and increase its
cease the import of rough diamonds into and U.S. holiday season retail sales were endeavours to promote India’s diamond
India. The initial appeal was made in mid- very disappointing — we feel confident that and jewellery sector in the global markets.
November 2008. our members now possess all the tools and The one month “breather” period was
With the firm support of its members, the information required to exercise the used by the GJEPC to bring in overseas
Vasant Mehta, Chairman of the GJEPC, needed self-discipline in their future rough experts to brief members of the council and
said: “I am thankful to the industry for diamond acquisition decisions.” bankers, and to enter into dialogue with the
government on specific assistance measures
while at the same time avoiding an
irresponsible increase in the industry’s
$26K Black Diamond Ski Package banking debts.
Northstar-at-Tahoe Resort in California is offering an
over-the-top package that is designed to impress. The TGJTA Reports Increase
Black Diamond Ski Package features luxury lodging, in Exports
lift tickets, numerous on-mountain experiences, dining The Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders
and a $10,000 rare black diamond necklace featuring Association (TGJTA) released the Thai
a black Tahitian pearl from Spirits in Stone. diamond, gem and jewellery industry’s
Real black diamonds, known as “Carbonados,” are export figures for the first three quarters
incredibly rare. Spirits in Stone, creators of the black of 2008. In 2008 the country’s diamond,
diamond necklace, is one of the original boutiques in gemstone and jewellery exports ranked
the Village at Northstar and one of the few galleries fourth on Thailand’s export listings, only
and jewellers in the United States to carry the preceded by machinery, cars and energy.
specialty stone. In the first nine months of the year, gem
The total package price is $26,653 and is offered and jewellery exports reached $5.96 billion,
from January 1, 2009, until the end of the season. an increase of 70.2% compared to the same
period in 2007. The five chief export
destinations were Hong Kong with $1.19
billion; Australia with $1.1 billion; the USA
with $827.4 million; Switzerland with
$641.6 million and Israel with $263.7
million. The exports for this period already
exceeded the total exports of diamonds,
gemstones and jewellery achieved for the
full 12 months of 2007.
“Thailand has the resources and
capabilities to retain its leading position in
the global gem and jewellery markets,” said
TGTJA President Vichai Assarasakorn.
“Our relatively cheap labour costs, expert
workmanship, manufacturing and
high quality products will continue to
compete even in a market that is
somewhat depressed.”

fortherecord
Holiday Jewellery Retail Numbers In “We have already sent out displays to TD and Birks Credit Card
Moneris Solutions, Canada’s largest processor jewellers affected by the floods in Iowa and TD Retail Card Services (formerly Shoppers
of debit, credit and gift card payments have helped them get their stores open,” says Charge Accounts Co.) has acquired the private
released its 2008 holiday season data that Larry Johnson, Sr. Vice President, Business label credit card program of the Canadian
revealed resilience and — for some merchant Development, of the Texas-based Company. As operations of Montreal-based Birks & Mayors
categories — dramatic growth in consumer the business restores its operations, the displays Inc. Under the agreement, the business unit of
spending across the country. Department and should be returned to the local state jewellery TD will direct all facets of the program for the
apparel stores made significant gains in association for safekeeping and future 37 Birks stores, which are located in major
December, while discount stores suffered the distribution in case of another disaster. metropolitan markets across Canada. The Birks
steepest credit and debit card dollar volume At the cost of shipping and with no future card can also be used for online purchases on
decline of all merchant categories studied obligations, Pacific Northern will provide the retailer’s website.
by Moneris. those in need with the required display items, Following the move to TD Retail Card
“Canadians braved both the economic ranging from full showcase sets, to single Services, Birks cardholders will continue to have
climate and December’s inclement weather to display elements (neck-forms, risers, ring access to several financing options, including
go on and spend more this December than trays, etc.). The offered inventory consists of interest-free and low-interest offerings, as well
they did last year,” said Brian Green, Senior new, first-quality items finished in common as a customer loyalty rewards program and a
Vice President of Moneris. display colours of leatherette fabrics. variety of special incentives and services.
Increased spending activity was most
dramatic in department and apparel stores
(up 6% and 9% respectively), as well as
electronics (up 11%) and jewellery retailers
(up 21%). In fact, along with drug stores,
jewellery retailers were the least volatile
performers in December 2008, down just 1%
respectively from last December.
Italy’s Top Designers Bring High

Fashion to Wedding Bands
In a project four years in the making,
Platinum Guild International-Italy (PGI-
Italy), brought together 23 of Italy’s brightest
and most well-known design minds
including Salvadore Ferragamo and
Giampaolo Babetto to reinterpret the classic
wedding band. The result was an Italian
exhibition called “Eternal Platinum: The
Ultimate Symbol of Love,” which was
showcased at Milan’s Triennale Museum
throughout the month of November.
“Today, with respect to marriage, we
should reflect on the role of the jewellery,”
said the exhibit’s Curator, Alba Cappellieri. Famed Red Diamond on Display in L.A.
“The project was given to marry tradition The Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County was proud to
with innovation in the outward expression of display the world’s most storied red diamond, the “Kazanjian Red,” until
how two different people become, in a sense, February 1 in its Gem and Mineral Hall. Found around 1927 in the
one unit.” diamond fields of South Africa, the red diamond was a sensational
discovery. During World War II, it was stolen in Arnhem during Nazi
Pacific Northern’s Loaner Program occupation of the Netherlands, and hidden in a salt mine with other
Pacific Northern, the industry’s leader in looted treasures. When it was recovered by American soldiers, it was at
custom jewellery, optical and watch display first mistaken for a ruby. It passed through several hands until it was
products, has introduced a new emergency purchased by a private collector in 1970. There it remained hidden until
display loaner program to jewellers hit 2007 when it was purchased by Los Angeles-based Kazanjian Bros. Inc.
by natural disasters such as hurricanes This was its first exhibition in the U.S.
and floods.
FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009 CJ 27

De Beers Ends Relationship

with ALROSA Daniel Espinosa Fights
The world’s two largest diamond producers, Against Poverty
De Beers and ALROSA, have officially ended Daniel Espinosa (DE) designed a
their trade relationship, in accordance with signature sterling silver, limited edition link
commitments made to the European bracelet with white Bakelite detail for
Commission (EC), says Rapaport News. Under Wear White 4 Windfall 2009 (WW4W), a
the agreement made legally binding in 2006, public awareness and fundraising
De Beers committed to stop purchasing initiative in support of Windfall Clothing
diamonds from ALROSA as of 2009. The EC Service, Canada’s only new clothing
argued at the time that the cessation of trade bank. With each $40 bracelet purchased
between the two would “result in more rough from the DE Canada store in Toronto, the
diamonds being available on the open market, Company will donate $10 to WW4W.
paving the way for genuine competition in the “When designing the Windfall bracelet
supply of rough diamonds.” I wanted something simple and
As it stands, however, ALROSA can still legally understated, something anyone would
sell rough diamonds to De Beers, as the wear and ‘link’ them to the cause,” says
European Court of First Instance annulled the Christian Sarubi, Owner of Daniel
Daniel Espinosa limited
decision to ban trade between the two companies Espinosa Canada. “It was a privilege to edition link bracelet.
in July 2007, after ALROSA successfully argued create a piece of jewellery to generate Photo: James Reid
that it had not been consulted about the EC awareness for the campaign, help raise
ruling. The EC has since appealed the court funds and to give back to the Toronto
decision, and awaits a hearing on the matter, a community, which has been so receptive
court spokesperson told the news wire. of our brand.”
MCD Pearl Imports

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and pearl jewellery.
catalogue available upon request
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T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
Email info@mcdpearls.com
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fortherecord
Sustainable Fine Jewellery WFDB Calls for Long-Term onset of the global financial crisis. But he
Line Launches Market Perspective also expressed his confidence that the
Launching February 1, Precious Earth takes With initial reports from the major markets fundamentals of the diamond business are
a step forward with the launch of a line indicating that consumer spending during sound, and for that reason said that the
dedicated to transparency and the 2009 holiday season had fallen at industry will see through the current
consciousness in the jewellery trade. some of the steepest rates in the past four downturn and emerge healthy, just as it
Sourcing diamonds endorsed by Team decades, the World Federation of Diamond has done through numerous periods of
Namibia, a diamond industry monitoring Bourses (WFDB) is urging members of its difficulty in the past.
body, Precious Earth has designed a 28 affiliated bourses to maintain confidence “Consumers are shell-shocked at present,
collection with beneficiated diamonds from in the long-term prospects for diamonds and as such they instinctively cut back on
Namibia. Renowned designer Robert and diamond jewellery. spending,” Paz said. “But research
Pelliccia designed the Endangered Species Commenting on the lacklustre holiday conducted already after the onset of the
collection that marks the launch of Precious season, WFDB President Avi Paz said that financial crisis demonstrated that not
Earth. The Company will donate 5% of the fall in consumer spending was only do diamonds retain their appeal, but
gross profits from the collection to a charity inevitable, given the general mood of they lead the luxury product category by a
that raises awareness and provides uncertainty that has prevailed since the large margin.”
education and healthcare to local
populations in Africa.
World Peace Egg at ROM
Metalsmith Wins Two A very special work of art is on display at the ROM’s The Nature of Diamonds
Gold Ink Awards exhibit until March 22. The World Peace Egg, a 165 mm tall, 252.60 carat (plus
Trade magazines Publishing Executive and 1.89 carats rough) creation, was imagined and designed by Toronto-based
Printing Impressions, co-sponsors of the Mirage Creations Inc. The outer shell of the Egg is invisibly set with 865
Annual Gold Ink Awards, announced that princess-cut diamonds, which protect a globe finely handcrafted in 18-karat
Metalsmith magazine published by the gold. When the globe is opened, it reveals a dove of peace, hand carved from
Society of North American Goldsmiths rock crystal with gold and enamel accents.
has won two awards: one silver and one The Egg was a labour of love that was designed to celebrate the strides that
pewter in the Trade Magazine Web have been made toward achieving peace and to showcase Canadian jewellery
Printing Category. talent, says Eli Goldstein from Mirage. “We knew that making something like
The Gold Ink Award winners were chosen the Peace Egg would grab the world’s attention and show people that we do
from nearly 1,500 entries submitted within have great jewellery talent in this country.”
50 different categories. Winning pieces After its run at the ROM, the World Peace Egg will travel to museums in
surpassed their competitors based on print New York, Washington, Chicago and Seattle. After returning to Canada, the
quality, technical difficulty and overall Egg, which has been appraised at $2.6 million U.S., will be available at auction,
visual effect. with part of the proceeds going to peace-promoting charities.
New Web Marketing Tools

from Dalumi
Dalumi customers can now benefit from
three new web marketing tools designed to
boost online sales. “We are seeing major
growth in online diamond sales and our
tools will help clients get the most from this
opportunity, whether they currently have a
website or not,” explains Yuval Kemp, Head
of Marketing and Business Development
at Dalumi.
Dalumi is offering a range of online
solutions to suit its clients’ different
marketing needs: a branded mini stock
website, an unbranded stock web page
and an inventory feed centre. In addition
to these innovative web marketing
tools, diamonds can also be purchased
directly from Dalumi’s highly successful
Photo: 2007 Mirage Creations Inc., Courtesy Mirage Creations Inc., Toronto, Ontario, © Royal Ontario Museum, 2009
online inventory.

M. Geller Launches Web marketing feedback to the retailer. Albarian said that the Company has
Retail Program “An expanded web presence and diamond managed to double its sales workforce,
On December 15, diamond importer M. Geller, supply are critical for the survival of today’s something that was planned before the
Ltd. announced a new web-based retail program retail jewellers,” said Jay Gerber, Geller’s downturn but was boosted by the recent
that gives retailers an easy, cost-free way to offer Executive Vice President of Sales and popularity of gold.
their customers 24/7 access to an e-commerce Marketing. “And our survival depends upon More investors are buying gold in a bid to
platform. The program, called Diamond Jewelry their survival.” diversify their portfolios and Albarian
Builder, is easily integrated into the retailer’s revealed that he thinks the metal will reach
existing website and can be customized to fit the Goldline Doubles Sales Workforce record highs in 2009. However, he advised
store’s brand. Customers can design their own A gold company executive has outlined how any investors thinking of purchasing gold
diamond jewellery by selecting the setting, his organization managed to expand its that precious metals should be viewed as
metal, diamond size and quality. business in 2008 despite the global economic long-term investments only.
Finished jewellery is shipped from M. Geller downturn, reports Adfero Limited.
in the retailer’s packaging at no cost to the In an interview with CNBC's Jane Wells, U.S. Polished Imports Hit
retailer if the jewellery is purchased directly Goldline International President and Chief Three-Year Low
from the website. The Jewelry Builder also has Executive Officer Mark Albarian noted that the According to Rapaport News, U.S. polished
a basic statistical tracking technology that firm has bucked the trend for reducing staff diamond imports hit a three-year low in
allows M. Geller to provide important levels in the wake of the slowdown. November, falling close to the billion-dollar
mark. Polished imports dropped 37% to $1.09
billion for the month, and decreased 45% by
Dubai Pearl Exchange volume to a record low of 665,361 carats. The
Some of the world’s price per carat for polished imports, however,
rarest and most sought rose 15% compared with November 2007, to
after natural and $1,635 a carat.
cultured pearls will be The effects were felt around the world as
offered in a private U.S. polished imports from Israel decreased
tender of the Dubai 42% to $543.6 million in November, and
Pearl Exchange as exports to Israel declined 20% to $339.8
leading producers million. Similarly, polished diamond imports
Paspaley Pearling Co., from Belgium were down 23% to $243.6
Robert Wan and Cogent million and exports to Belgium fell 24% to
Trading gather from $231.6 million. Imports to India dropped 57%
February 12 to 16. to $129.6 million, while exports increased 19%
Top pearl buyers from to $128.1 million.
the international trade,
leading jewellery design GIA Reports Pink Colour in
brands and members of Copper-bearing Tourmalines
the Dubai Pearl A release issued by the GIA on January 29,
Exchange will present says that samples of blue to blue-green,
closed bids for up to 80 copper-bearing tourmaline containing surface-
lots of important single reaching growth tubes surrounded by intense
pieces and gem quality pink “sleeves” have recently been seen in the
matched sets, as well trade. In response to rumors of possible
as strands of significant diffusion treatment, GIA Laboratory
rarity. Never before staff members examined several of these
has such a collection tourmalines over the past year and
of pearls been offered determined that the pink zones were
for sale. produced by fluids containing naturally
“Hosting a pearl sale occurring radioactive material.
of this calibre enables our Dubai Pearl Exchange members to access some All the copper-bearing tourmaline samples
of the world’s rarest pearls while creating a viable trading channel for some of with this feature observed thus far have come
the world’s largest producers, all in a location recognized historically as a from Mozambique. This suggests that this type
major pearl trading hub — Dubai,” said Ahmed bin Sulayem, Executive of inclusion feature may be characteristic of
Chairman of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre. that locality.

fortherecord
Hong Kong Survey Results In RJC Introduces New Tiffany & Co. Sales Fall
A survey conducted by Jewellery News Asia Certification System On January 14, Tiffany & Co. reported to
of 30 diamond traders in Hong Kong On December 4, the Council for Responsible Rapaport that worldwide sales fell 21% to
between November 27 to December 5, 2008, Jewellery Practices released the $687.4 million in the final two months of
revealed that half of the survey respondents implementation documents for the Council’s 2008. On constant exchange basis, sales fell
saw their diamond sales drop by 20 to 50% system for certifying responsible ethical, 20%, while same-store sales declined 24%.
in 2008 compared with the previous year. social and environmental practices Tiffany reported that sales in the Americas
The study also revealed where Hong Kong- throughout the diamond and gold jewellery declined 30% to $385.9 million led by a 35%
based diamond traders imported and supply chain. The Council also released its drop in comparable store sales across the U.S.
exported diamonds from and to last year. new logo and announced the adoption of the In the Asia-Pacific region, sales fell 2% to $216
About 77% of the respondents said they simpler trading name, “Responsible Jewellery million, and on a constant exchange rate basis
sourced diamonds from India last year. Council” (RJC). sales fell 8%. In Europe, sales declined 4% to
Nearly half of the companies surveyed The new system requires members of the $79.2 million but rose 19% on a constant
imported goods from Belgium and Israel, RJC to be audited by an accredited third- exchange rate basis with comparable store sales
while the rest sourced goods from Russia, party to verify their conformance with the decline of 3%.
United States, South Africa, Canada Council’s standards. Members who have This past Christmas season, sales declines
and Thailand. been independently verified as conforming were widespread across the U.S. and for all
With regard to demand for diamonds, to the Code of Practices will become price categories, making it the worst Christmas
Hong Kong and China were the major Certified Members of the Responsible in 21 years. In a statement, Tiffany’s chief
markets for a majority of the respondents, Jewellery Council. The RJC System is Executive Officer Michael Kowalski said he
with 60% selling in Hong Kong and 53% expected to become fully operational in the believes these conditions will, unfortunately,
exporting to China. second quarter of 2009. continue well into 2009.
MIRKO ENGRAVING LTD

OVER 25
YEARS
EXPERIENCE
21 Dundas Square
Suite 1006
Toronto, ON
M5B 1B7
Chocolate Lovers will Love MCD Pearls

MCD Pearl Imports, a leader in pearl strands, loose
pearls and pearl jewellery, has recently launched a
line of chocolate coloured pearls. Company

President, Peter Stein, says that these rich, warm,
exotic-looking varieties are following a popular trend
in the industry. “There’s a big revival in chocolate,” he
says. “For diamonds as well, and it just seems like
[pearls are] a natural add-on.” Currently, MCD offers a A MASTER’S
chocolate coloured pearl collection, including stands,
pairs, and loose Tahitian and freshwater pearls. While
TOUCH IN
Stein notes that these unique offerings are relatively HAND ENGRAVING
new to Canada, there is a mounting demand for
MCD’s and other chocolate-hued pieces. 416-878-6877
mirkoengraving.ca

stock index
Last Quarter Market
Conclave Designed to Help Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week
Revenue
P/E
Cap
Symbol 12/16/08 01/09/09 Change High Low Ratio
($Millions) ($Millions)
Jewellers Succeed
Presenters will bring business-boosting PRECIOUS METALS
insight from the classroom, the corporate
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $56.02 $59.14 5.57% $82.80 $26.60 $143.10 68.43 $8,509
world, and the kitchen to the American Gem
Alamos Gold AGI TSX $8.18 $7.52 -8.07% $9.14 $3.50 $37.70 33.48 $720
Society Conclave®, held from April 1 to 4, Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $26.82 $25.39 -5.33% $51.35 $13.37 $977.00 41.25 $7,135
2009, in Chicago, Illinois. Anvil Mining Limited AVM TSX $0.91 $1.37 50.55% $15.19 $0.45 $43.30 2.69 $98
Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $41.85 $39.20 -6.33% $54.11 $22.00 $1,898.00 17.9 $34,182
Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $20.97 $16.92 -19.31% $42.89 $9.00 $195.30 15.38 $4,305
“Each piece of the program — from the
interactive workshops to the inspirational Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $0.32 $0.43 34.38% $4.18 $0.19 $11.70 44.5 $293
keynote speakers — has been designed to Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $8.98 $9.25 3.01% $9.83 $3.44 $67.90 56.19 $3,387
Equinox Minerals Limited EQN TSX $1.39 $1.76 26.62% $6.09 $0.76 $13.70 N/A $1,044
First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $17.90 $23.60 31.84% $96.53 $12.75 $568.90 2.3 $1,623
help Conclave attendees succeed by
strengthening and sharpening themselves FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $2.90 $4.02 38.62% $35.10 $2.00 $75.40 9.33 $341
Fortune Valley Resources FVX TSX-V $0.01 $0.02 50.00% $0.40 $0.01 N/A N/A $0
and their businesses,” said Ruth Batson,
Gammon Gold GAM TSX $5.05 $6.01 19.01% $11.20 $2.68 $51.70 N/A $719
Executive Director and CEO of the American Gold Fields GFI NYSE $10.08 $8.79 -12.80% $18.08 $4.64 $737.90 11.61 $5,741
Gem Society. Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $38.00 $32.38 -14.79% $52.48 $17.77 $807.10 28.96 $23,599
Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $6.70 $6.95 3.73% $10.25 $2.93 $229.60 20.06 $2,055
International Royalty IRC TSX $1.68 $1.81 7.74% $6.65 $1.30 $11.50 11.56 $142
For the first time, Conclave will feature
graduate-level business school workshops Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $2.98 $3.84 28.86% $13.54 $2.06 $3.10 N/A $1,442
that provide tools for success and profitable Kinross Gold K TSX $22.00 $21.14 -3.91% $27.16 $8.96 $548.20 35.95 $13,930
Lundin Mining LUN TSX $1.22 $1.47 20.49% $9.35 $0.77 $209.10 N/A $574
Newmont Mining NMC TSX $47.88 $43.98 -8.15% $58.44 $27.14 $1,392.00 17.89 $16,269
change — even in a challenging economic
climate. The program will be taught by NovaGold Resources NG TSX $2.09 $2.13 1.91% $12.06 $0.48 $34.80 59 $224
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $20.45 $21.13 3.33% $43.66 $11.12 $84.20 18.56 $1,707
award-winning university professors and
Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $7.50 $7.48 -0.27% $9.25 $3.28 $56.50 N/A $1,411
researchers including David Drehmer, an Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $17.30 $21.38 23.58% $40.20 $6.87 $1.80 N/A $1,341
Associate Professor of Management and Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $7.09 $7.42 4.65% $19.30 $3.07 $41.20 15.87 $1,866
Teck Cominco Ltd. TCK.B TSX $5.98 $7.05 17.89% $52.90 $3.35 $1,821.00 2.13 $3,168
Organization at DePaul University and
Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $8.38 $8.33 -0.60% $19.79 $4.29 $431.50 18.46 $5,824
Christopher Eckrich, a Principal of The
GEMSTONES
Family Business Consulting Group, Inc.
Hong Kong’s Diamond Trade Anglo American PLC AAUK Nasdaq $12.64 $11.25 -11.00% $38.75 $11.11 N/A 2.81 $29,748
Strong but Slowing BHP Billiton Limited BHP NYSE $44.32 $43.88 -0.99% $95.61 $24.53 N/A 8.15 $157,090
Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.19 $0.27 45.95% $1.17 $0.21 N/A N/A $2
Diamond Fields International DFI TSX $0.05 $0.05 -10.00% $0.63 $0.03 $0.70 N/A $11
In the first three quarters of 2008, Hong
Kong’s diamond trade showed robust growth, Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.06 $0.11 75.00% $0.41 $0.05 N/A N/A $4
Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $5.88 $5.75 -2.21% $32.15 $3.90 $217.40 1.19 $353
but as Jewellery Net Asia reports, this growth
Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $1.10 $1.08 -1.82% $5.14 $1.38 N/A N/A $65
slowed in the fourth quarter. Moydow Mines Intl Inc MOY TSX $0.08 $0.08 -6.25% $0.22 $0.05 N/A N/A $5
According to figures from the Diamond New Nadina Expls Ltd NNA TSX-V $0.12 $0.15 25.00% $0.49 $0.08 N/A N/A $4
Nordic Diamonds Ltd NDL TSX-V $0.01 $0.02 200.00% $0.24 $0.01 N/A N/A $1
Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $98.75 $100.11 1.38% $558.65 $59.20 N/A 2.92 "$26,703
Federation of Hong Kong, China Ltd (DFHK),
imports of polished diamonds in the first nine Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.07 $0.13 100.00% $0.75 $0.06 $0.10 N/A $30
months of 2008 reached US$8.9 billion, up Tahera Diamond TAH TSX $0.01 $0.01 0.00% $0.16 $0.01 $5.70 N/A $1
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.06 $0.12 100.00% $0.59 $0.05 N/A N/A $8
35% compared with the same period in 2007.
Exports, meanwhile, rose from US$3.8 billion
to US$6.2 billion, a growth of 6%. In total, the JEWELLERS & RETAILERS
diamond trade in 2008 for the first three Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.42 $0.59 40.48% $5.60 $0.30 N/A 0.49 $7
quarters amounted to US$15 billion, 45% Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $14.14 $15.06 6.51% $38.08 $11.51 $409.80 7.77 $1,019
Sears Canada SCC TSX $17.95 $19.18 6.85% $25.39 $15.00 $1,443.80 6.94 $2,064
more than for the corresponding period in the
Signet Group SIG NYSE $9.02 $8.96 -0.67% $31.62 $7.09 $629.30 N/A $764
previous year. Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $24.43 $22.40 -8.31% $49.98 $16.75 $618.20 8.79 $2,778
Statistics also show an overwhelming Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $55.24 $51.58 -6.63% $63.85 $43.11 $98,642.00 15.07 $202,915
Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $3.22 $3.43 6.52% $42.23 $2.93 $364.10 N/A $109
demand for Hong Kong’s polished diamonds
from the markets of Germany, India, Belgium,
South Africa and Sri Lanka. In the first three COMMODITIES
quarters of 2008, exports and re-exports of
Gold COMX $852.30
polished diamonds of 1 carat and above grew Silver COMX $11.30
by 119%. Exports and re-exports to Germany Platinum NYME $998.50
Palladium NYME $194.50
grew a whopping 1,162%; to India, 392%; and
Belgium, 145%. [CJ] *This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

033.CJ.Wenger swiss.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:27 AM Page 44

030-032.CJ_MNews.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:50 AM Page 34
The latest news on mines.
Shore Reduces Budget In this latest placement, Shear sold Teck Cominco to Cut 1,400 Jobs
Senior VP George H. Read recently 7,142,857 units at $0.07 per unit, each Vancouver-based Teck Cominco announced it
announced that Shore Gold Inc. has reduced consisting of one common share and one-half is eliminating 1,400 jobs (approximately 13%
its 2009 budget to $17.9 million. The of a non-transferable share purchase warrant. of its workforce) in a move to increase
reduction is due in part to the global This entitles the holder to acquire an market share and cut costs, boosting market
economic downturn and the diamond additional common share at a price of $0.20 shares in the process as a result of weak
markets. The new budget includes $2.5 until December 31, 2010. commodity prices. The Company
million for its Star property, $1.0 million for anticipates cuts to come from units
Star West and $9.5 million for the Fort a la Terra Ventures Completes Drilling associated with exploration activities,
Corne Joint Venture. Program in Quebec research and development, and the recent
The budget, in combination with its Terra Ventures Ltd. announced it has received Fording Canadian Coal Trust acquisition.
current cash position and other credit final assay data from a 12-hole diamond The job cuts, which are made up of
agreements, will ensure the Company’s drilling program totaling 4,004 metres on its approximately 1,000 employees and 400
financial stability through 2010 when a Lac Kachiwiss uranium property near Sept-Iles, contractors, will take effect during the first
production decision is anticipated. The Quebec. The mineralized system remains open quarter and will be finished by the end of
limited underground and the completion to the north, east and west, and also at depth. 2009. Savings are estimated at
of the large diametre drilling sampling on The 12 holes varied in depth from 187.15 approximately $85 million annually.
Orion South together with the tightly metres (due to technical problems) to 550.47 “Given continued economic uncertainty,
constrained 2009 budget might see staff metres, averaging 333.7 metres. Terra’s goal was a significant reduction in our workforce is
reduction on-site. to find the limits of the mineralized zones. It needed to further reduce costs and position
In the release, George Read notes: “We are was reported that the program was successful Teck for both short- and long-term
convinced that the 2009 budget enables us to in expanding the mineralized system. The competitiveness,” commented President and
make significant progress towards a junior exploration Company is planning CEO Don Lindsay in a release. According to
production decision on Star while additional diamond drilling at the site to the Company, 550 of the cuts will be made
simultaneously estimating a resource on determine the full extent of the mineralized in Canada, including 400 in British
Orion South. This approach unfortunately system aimed at defining a resource. Columbia, 105 in Alberta and another 45
comes at the expense of a considerable across other parts of the country.
reduction in the size of our staff. Many IGC and Nkwe to Merge
alternative work programs have been Australian platinum exploration Company Kenya Fluorspar Gets
exhaustively considered prior to making International Goldfields (IGC) has finalized its Minority Investment
this decision.” terms for the proposed merger with emerging The board of directors of Kenya Fluorspar
platinum producer Nkwe Platinum. Company Ltd. announced it has received a
Shear Minerals Closes $500,000 In 2008, Nkwe Platinum signed an option significant minority investment from the
Private Placement for the exclusive rights to negotiate a Firebird Global Master Fund II, Ltd. aimed at
Edmonton-based Shear Minerals Ltd. transaction with IGC to acquire its South increasing prospects and the profile of the
recently reported it has raised gross proceeds African platinum assets or shares. Under the Kerio Valley mining operation.
of CAD$414,250 in a non-brokered private terms of the IGC proposal, Nkwe would offer In the official statement, Kenya Fluorspar
placement of its shares. The funds will be to buy all IGC ordinary shares on the basis of Chairman Mr. Charles Field-Marsham
used to cover expenses under Canadian IGC’s cash in the bank, at the time of the noted: “This strategic investment by an
Exploration Expenses at the Churchill implementation of the scheme, as well as a expert in global mining attests to the
Diamond project in Nunavut. This comes valuation of IGC’s interest in the Tubatse success of the efforts of Kenya Fluorspar
as a great boost for the Company who closed project, located in the platinum-rich Bushveld and its employees to continually improve
another private placement — CAD$1.18 Complex in South Africa. the operations of the mine.” More
million — for the same project earlier in The agreement would be valued at about importantly, this investment will offer many
December 2008. $60 million, however, the final offer price benefits to Kenya Fluorspar projects
The Company reported that the units were would be determined by the total number including the extension of the economic life
sold to the MineralFields Group, a Toronto- of shares in issue at the time the scheme was of the mine by funding a drilling program,
based mining fund that is a division of implemented. The targeted completion date improved and upgraded facilities, and
Pathway Asset Management. The of the agreement is March 31. IGC Executive increased job security. On another positive
MineralFields Group offers tax-advantaged Chairperson Tony Sage stated that the note, the Company has initiated an
super flow-through limited partnerships to Company was united with Nkwe in the belief Employee Share Ownership Program,
investors in Canada as well as hard-dollar that a consolidation ownership structure allowing employees to become partial
resource limited partnerships. needed to occur. owners of Kenya Fluorspar.

030-032.CJ_MNews.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:50 AM Page 35
miningnews
Grant Gold Project Terminated Northern Gold Signs Rio Tinto Adjusts Production
Stikine Gold Corporation has received final Letter of Intent Rio Tinto is set to slow down its Argyle
assay results from the initial sampling In an official release, Martin Shefsky, mining project and ease diamond production
program on its Grant Gold Project located President and CEO of Toronto-based in 2009 in response to the Company’s debt-
near Fort St. James, British Columbia. Northern Gold Mining Inc., reports that the reduction plan and global market conditions.
A total of 46 samples were analyzed and Company has entered into a Letter of Intent This will result in a reduction of contractors
showed that less than 10% of the samples with ValGold Resources Ltd. The agreement and staff throughout the year. This decision is
had potentially economic gold grades, covers the Garrison gold property, in line with many diamond mining
with the highest assay result returning consisting of 35 patented claims in Garrison companies, including De Beers and ALROSA.
0.8 g/t gold. Township, approximately 100 kilometres “Given global market conditions, we will
After analysis, Stikine has concluded east of Timmins, Ontario. According to also reduce diamond production by taking an
that although a very large number of the Mr. Shefsky, “this property strengthens extended maintenance shutdown of the
samples contained visible gold flakes or our holdings in Northern Ontario and diamond processing facilities for up to three
fine grains when concentrated, they are immediately provides Northern Gold with months, commencing in March,” commented
not of sufficient abundance to warrant an advanced exploration project that has Kevin McLeish, Chief Operating Officer
further sampling of the property. Based the potential for a large gold deposit.” of Argyle Diamonds, in a report released
on these results, the Company has Under the terms of the agreement, in January 2009.
decided not to proceed with the option Northern Gold may earn up to an McLeish is hopeful that the mine still has
agreement for property announced undivided 80% interest in the Garrison some resources remaining, as it a premier
on September 2, 2008. gold property. source of rare pink diamonds. [CJ]
Yamana Gold Releases

Optimistic Operating Outlook
Canadian-based gold producer
Yamana Gold predicts that
production will increase by
40% in 2009, according to its
operation outlook for the 2009-
2010 year. The Company has
operations, development and New generation compact
exploration properties and land polishing unit Vario.
positions range of properties at Speed 0-3600 rpm,
various stages of development in free adjustable
Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Mexico
Peter Marrone
and Central America. Other
figures released forecast cash
costs will decline over the next two years, while gold
production is expected to reach 1.3 million to 1.4 million
gold equivalent ounces (GEO) this year and 1.4 million to
1.5 million GEO in 2010. Plans for expansion were also

reported for the Chapada prospect mine, additional
development work at El Penon, and initial work and
expected feasibility study update on QDD Lower West
at Gualcamayo.
The Company says it is well financed to fund its strategic
growth plan and business objectives. “Yamana is very No 6890-G-220
well positioned for 2009,” said Peter Marrone, Yamana
Chairman and CEO in the official release. “We took time
No 6890-D-220
to better understand our assets and gather further
BERGEON & CIE SA
information in 2008 and it positions us well beginning CH 2400 LE LOCLE
www.bergeon.ch
with 2009 both in terms of production and costs.” E-mail: info@bergeon.ch Switzerland

038-040.CJ_MiningFeature.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:11 AM Page 36
Global Impact
2009 is going to be a challenging one for the mining industry, though there are some very
good signs that the year will end on a positive note.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
scant 365 days ago, the state of the mining industry was world’s largest distributor of rough diamonds, witnessed rough
considerably more wide-eyed and optimistic. In fact, the prices rise by a remarkable average of 15-25% during 2008. For the
start of 2008 saw the industry literally booming, with final quarter of the same year in December, though, the
highest ever prices dedicated to the bulk of metals. However, as the organization recorded its smallest sight in history, which saw overall
year progressed and the economy took a turn for the worse, this sight values fall to one-sixth their previous average.
market boom was hard to even imagine.
As the credit catastrophe continued to pick up steam, a myriad of
In literally a heartbeat, the world’s economy was hit hard. Banks manufacturers decreased rough purchases, and instead, focused on
stopped lending money in order to contend with the mortgage ridding themselves of the stock that they were already holding. It
crisis and the equity crunch spread across all borders. No industry was also during that same month, in December 2008, that
was immune to the sudden downturn, and all started preparing manufacturing centres requested government assistance in order to
their businesses for what many believe to be one of the most gain easier access to credit.
challenging years in recent memory.
Plans to contend with shrinking markets continued when
A Worldwide Challenge the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) recently made the
This dramatic chain of events impacted the diamond market, and announcement that it will reduce its U.S. staff by 11%, while also
obviously, not for the better. It began at the retail level and then cutting executive salaries by 10%. There have been no cuts
quickly migrated to mining companies, who were experiencing made to its overseas workforce, however, GIA has begun to slow
difficulties simply selling their products. The Diamond Trading its international expansion plans and has also instituted a
Company (DTC), part of the De Beers family of companies and the hiring freeze.

038-040.CJ_MiningFeature.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:11 AM Page 37
miningfeature
“... the Mining Industry Human Resources Council forecast

a shortage of 92,000 mining workers in the next 10 years
across the country.
”
Many miles east in Israel, the diamond industry was hit during the final cut 24 jobs while another Belgium-based organization, the International
quarter of 2008 as well. Trading levels dropped dramatically and now, Gemological Institute, will release 15 of its Antwerp-based staff.
Israel is appealing to the country’s Ministry of Finance, asking to be
included in the recently-approved credit allocation plan. The Israeli Working it Out
mining industry is also asking for the Minister’s support in bringing The slue of layoffs and deferrals of major mining projects have obviously
buyers back to the country in an effort to stimulate demand. raised many eyebrows. However, numerous industry groups and
corporations in Canada view the medium-term job prospects in mining as
Aid is also being sought in India. Narendra Modi, Gujarat Chief Minister, relatively strong. A good indicator of this is a 2008 report by the Mining
recently demanded a revival and relief package for the Indian diamond Industry Human Resources Council (MIHR), which forecast a shortage of
industry. In a memorandum issued to Prime Minister Manmohan Singh, 92,000 mining workers in the next 10 years across the country. This number
the Chief Minister commented on the fact that incentives should be given was amended following another report, this one from Ernst & Young, which
to the industry. These would include a relief package for diamond foretold a shortage of 70,000 workers for the same period of time.
workers, along with a liberal credit policy for the companies within the
faltering diamond industries. Training is another challenge that is going to have to be overcome if the
mining sector is to thrive once again, and not only in Canada. Traditional
Namibian diamond producer Namdeb and De Beers Marine Namibia, BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China) are experiencing their
meanwhile, has announced they will reduce production for early 2009 own short supply of properly skilled workers. This is somewhat
and may also be cutting their workforce. surprising as these nations have been renowned for their highly skilled
labour in the past.
Canada was certainly not excluded from feeling the adverse effects of the
financial markets. While the last few years have been very good Age is also a factor to contend with insofar as reinvigorating the mining
to diamond mining here, falling diamond prices have started to impact workforce. It has been shown that the average age of employees in the
Canadian diamond production. In November 2008, De Beers announced mining sector is 55, which is a clear indication that there is a growing
it would be decreasing its output for two new Canadian mines by 10-20% need to replace them with younger, yet still skilled and experienced,
due to this drop in demand. workers. Some of the most sought-after positions include geoscientists,
metallurgists, mining engineers and geologists. Insofar as experience is
Vancouver-based Rockwell Diamonds is another industry member concerned, those with 10 to 15 years in the field are generally seen as the
feeling the pinch. The Company announced they would extend their primary candidates to stepping into the spots vacated by their retiring
usual two-week shutdown to five weeks this year to help save money. counterparts. Of particular note is the fact that, according to the Ernst &
In addition to the shutdown, the Company is planning to restructure Young report, an astounding 40% of the mining industry’s workforce is
its Middle Orange River operations to further cut costs while slated for retirement by the year 2014.
increasing production. It plans to increase production at its new
Saxendrift mine in South Africa, and suspend production at its lower A Bright Future?
grade Wouterspan operation, also located in South Africa, until a new Amidst all the prognostications of doom and gloom there are some
high-volume, low-cost plant is built. reasons to expect that 2009 will shape up to be a good year for the
mining industry — especially in Canada. For one, the impact of the
Rio Tinto and the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) announced recent economic downturn has not adversely affected Canadian
plans of their own to reduce the number of employees in a cost-cutting mining nearly as much as other sectors. Also, throughout the
initiative. Rio Tinto is in the midst of attempting to reduce its net debt by economic downturn, gold prices have managed to perform relatively
$10 billion in 2009, which has triggered the Company’s plans to cut well. With these positives in mind, the Canadian mining industry has
14,000 jobs and a total of $5 billion in spending. AWDC, meanwhile, has a solid foundation to build upon. [CJ]

042-045.CJ_Watch.qxd:Layout 1 1/29/09 5:33 PM Page 38
Just Watch Me The trends and price points that will shape 2009.
B Y E MILY S ASO
hen John Harwood invented the automatic wristwatch in Trend Spotting
W 1923, he would never have imagined a world where

miniature telephones told time and an entire economy was
crippled by shortsighted mortgage brokers. In fact, thanks to these
At Matt Bailey in Montreal, it is business as (almost) usual. The store
sells mostly men’s watches and almost all brands perform quite well —
Hamilton, Bell & Ross and Alpina — the oversized U-Boat is the biggest
modern developments, watches these days should be a dying seller. “The military look is in, but the real trend is size,” says Sales
commodity — a redundant luxury that no longer fulfills a need in the Associate Marco Gagliano. “42 mm used to be oversized, now 44-
Western world. 46mm is the average and will still be big for 2009.”
However, evidence is proving otherwise. In Sotheby’s final auction of For $2200, customers get the masculine design and oversized face (45mm
2008, watch sales attracted strong bids, achieving the second-highest or 53mm) that they are craving with U-Boat. For a little extra rugged
total for a watch sale ever. The sale, which netted more than $1.5 million, styling, the brand’s Flight Deck chronograph at $3700 — a favourite of
was a sign of a hopeful future for the industry and, according to Alex Sylvester Stallone — is also selling well. Call it the “Rocky Effect” if you
Barter, Sotheby’s Director and Deputy Worldwide Head of Watches, like, but masculine styling is here to stay for 2009, and not just for men.
demonstrated “that the market for watches remains extremely buoyant.”
“Some women are buying them too,” says Gagliano, who cites Hamilton’s
So why, in the age of cell phones and frugality, are watches still tugging $995 Below Zero model as a particularly popular choice for Matt Bailey’s
at consumers’ heartstrings and their wallets, and what trends deserve female shoppers. “I sell a few a month to different kinds of women:
some of the credit for this sustained demand? professional, sporty, stylish,” he adds. “They are loving this look.”

watchfeature
“Something we say around here is, ‘Who cares what

time it is?’ Nobody buys a watch to tell the time anymore.
It’s all about the look.
”
At Davidson’s Jewellers in Ottawa, Owner Judy Richards sees a great deal of

female watch aficionados and while she also notices some interest in larger
watch faces, rose gold has been the biggest trend for her clientele.
Davidson’s sells Movado and Raymond Weil watches, though it is the

Esquire rose gold line that is selling almost as quickly as Richards
can stock it. Not only do these watches satisfy women’s current
demand for the trendy gold hue, they also please the budget.
“They’re under the $1,000 mark, which is great. Until recently,
if you wanted rose gold you had to go higher end with
Raymond Weil.”
Another feature that draws customers to the Esquire model is its

diamond-covered bezel, a trend that Richards sees gaining
strength. “Women are really looking for something special in a
watch. If they’re going to wear one, they’re likely not going to
wear another jewellery piece on their arm, so it’s appealing if a
watch can also play the role of, say, a diamond tennis bracelet.”
Women who shop at the upscale downtown Ottawa store are also
increasingly concerned about cost and are gravitating more
towards the $300-$500 price point. “For us, it’s a watch with
some diamonds and rose gold in that price point that has the
fastest turnover,” says Richards.
Cost is Key
Getting the most for their money is a major point of concern for almost
every consumer these days. At Fort Richmond Jewellers in Winnipeg,
Owner Dan Flather has found that as long as he offers watches between
the $500 to $700 range, the customers will come. His store exclusively
sells Citizen and in his market, just like most others, men’s oversized
titanium watches are very popular in that range. “Men really like the big
face and the details like the radio control and they want it all for under
Hamilton’s masculine-styled Below Zero model
$1,000,” he says. is selling well at $995.

Citizen’s Skyhawk A-T

watch has all the bells
and whistles at $725.
Monk’s Jewellers Ltd. in Victoria carries several lines including Swiss

Military and Bulova. Their top sellers include the Fiori line of women’s
watches in the $150-$200 price range. “The area I sell in is working class,”
says Owner Ron Monk, “so my customers are not going for Wittenauer
or other expensive brands. Chronographs don’t sell here either.”
While Monk, a watch lover through-and-through, occasionally wishes

for a more discerning clientele, he is a savvy enough businessman to
know that the customer is always right. “And the customer here wants
an inexpensive standard Seiko type of watch,” he says.
Price is the top concern for Monk’s customers and always has been, This Bell & Ross model
recession or otherwise. “In the last two years, only two customers have features one of the top
asked for watches over $500 — that’s just the market I deal with.” While trends for 2009 — rose gold.
watches are moving fairly well, the saving grace for Monk has been
another item altogether. “You know what our best seller is in the watch
category? Watch batteries. I sell over 20,000 watch batteries a year. Far
more than watches themselves. I love watch batteries!”
The Look Has It

If the biggest trends going into 2009 are rose gold, oversized faces, price
points under $1,000, and watches that also serve as jewellery, how do
retailers make sense of it all to help ensure profits are robust?
It all comes down to your customers. If your store is higher end, you can
take more liberties with the items you stock. Matt Bailey is known
throughout Montreal for selling the highest quality watches that may not
be the everyday, mainstream timepiece. Young professionals in their
mid-20s often come to the store to buy their first watch and are
concerned with image above everything else.
“Style is key, not utility,” insists Gagliano. “Something we say around here
is, ‘Who cares what time it is?’ Nobody buys a watch to tell the time
anymore. It’s all about the look — people are buying watches that reflect
their personality and their personal style.”

watchfeature
For more expensive retailers such as Matt Bailey, it is important to offer For Monk, decisions about what brands to carry are driven almost
interesting and unique styles that are not available anywhere else. entirely by his competition.“The death of a watch line at my store is when
“Complicated styles of manufacturing are popular and a lot of styling it goes to Costco,” he says. “We just stop carrying it once it’s available there
is going on. The mechanical look is big,” says Gagliano. No matter how because they can knock 25% off the price. For the independent jeweller,
big though, for high-end retailers, sales have been slowing. While the it’s all about the margins. Fiori offers the best margin so I make much
up-market retailers may be going through some tough times, there is more than keystone. It’s what I have to do to survive against the big guys.”
hope for sales in the mid-range category.
Perhaps the most important decision a retailer can make is with the
Selling Secrets number of watch brands that the store will carry. Do you carry many
At Davidson’s, Richards does not just sell watches to her female brands and cover all tastes and styles, or do you specialize in two or three?
customers — she gives them an experience. “We have ladies’ nights
every now and then,” she says. “Our customers come into the store for For Richards, the decision was easy. “We used to sell six or seven lines but
some appetizers and drinks and they look at our latest watches. It’s we narrowed that down to three. The watch industry is going to the
really a fun night out with the girls.” fashion watch — the cheaper throwaway,” she says. “People buy three or
four of the cheap kinds, so in response, we focused on only three lines
Not only do these evenings help endear shoppers to the store but they instead. It works to our advantage because we get to know those few lines
also allow Richards to get valuable feedback on her inventory. “It was really well, which is great for customer service.”
at one of our ladies’ nights when everybody first went crazy for the rose
gold Esquires,” says Richards. Customers can register online to receive No matter what style of watches you sell — high end, low end or anything
special notices for new arrivals and special events at the store, a service in between — staying afloat in this market is doable as long as you know
that keeps them coming back. your customer base and your product lines.
The trends for 2009 seem only to be building on those established in

2008. While bigger just kept getting better and opulent add-ons such as
jewelled bezels and rose gold sold well, it is clear that in times of economic
instability, affordably priced luxury is always in style. [CJ]

042-044.CJ_FaceValue_re.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:00 AM Page 42
Image Courtesy of Rare and Precious Gems

facevalue
A Question of Colour
Appraising fancy colour diamonds.
B Y D UNCAN PARKER
olourless and near colourless diamonds have always been the Several years ago, I was grading a brown diamond, and an elderly dealer in
C main interest of both the diamond trade and the consumer.

The lack of colour in a diamond generally enhances its value.
A “D” diamond is entirely lacking in colour, and an “E” is almost
the lab asked, “why are you looking at rubbish industrial diamonds?” He
was quite serious. In the days prior to Argyle, there was a very limited
market for brown diamonds (even gem quality), and many were used for
entirely colourless, but a fine 1.00 carat flawless diamond of “D” industrial applications. Brown melee diamonds were rarely encountered
colour can be as much as 50% more costly than an equivalent “E”. The in jewellery until Argyle began production. Small brown diamonds are
average consumer simply can’t tell the difference between the “D” and now sold to Indian manufacturers, where low labour costs and advanced
the “E” colour, but the price difference is a good indicator about how skills allow for cost effective polishing of top light brown to fancy brown
important colour (or lack of colour) in diamonds can be. diamond melee that can retail for as little as a few hundred dollars a carat.
A lack of colour still rules the diamond world, but colour holds a A 1.00 carat, round, VS clarity, brown diamond can wholesale for less
small and important niche. There are all sorts of nuances of hue, than one thousand dollars, and up to over three thousand dollars.
tone, and intensity that contribute to visible apparent colour in a This is a large range, not seen among equivalent colourless diamonds,
diamond. Fancy coloured diamonds can fetch top prices as the but when we move into fancy colour, there are fewer standards. When
rarest among rare gems, but a fancy colour doesn’t always make a we appraise anything, we base our valuation on information we find
diamond expensive. in the market. In fancy diamonds, we have to work with averages,
based on as many market comparables as we can find.
The Argyle mine in Western Australia is notable for its exceptional
pink diamonds. The total volume of pink diamonds from Argyle Over the past few years, we have seen a substantial increase in the
provides heightened viability for the mine but the lion’s-share of number of fancy colour diamonds passing through Harold Weinstein
fancy diamonds from the Argyle mine are actually brown. These laboratory for grading, identification and appraisal. The majority
brown diamonds are marketed as “champagne,” in graduated colour have been yellow, but there have been almost all colours (well, not a
tones referred to as “C-1” (traditionally “top light brown”), to “C-7” lot of red, actually). We have seen yellow, brown, orange, black, pink,
(fancy deep brown). blue, green, purple, gray, white (translucent), and others.

facevalue
“Fancy coloured diamonds can fetch top prices as the rarest among rare gems,
but a fancy colour doesn’t always make a diamond expensive.
”
If brown enters the description of a diamond as a main element of

colour, it can have a profound effect on price. If a diamond is called
pinkish brown, its price is much lower than a brownish pink, and
substantially lower than pink with no brown.
A diamond called “fancy light pink” can have value that is as little
as one third of the value of an equivalent diamond graded as “fancy
pink.” A diamond graded as “fancy pink” in turn, can have a value
that is as little as one half of the value of an equivalent “fancy
intense pink.” These are just examples, and each individual gem
must be considered as it is examined.
The recent surge in popularity of coloured diamonds has been long

lived. It seems to have started at about the time that Jennifer Lopez
received a big pink diamond in an engagement ring several years
ago. Though JLo has moved on from the engagement, the
popularity of coloured diamonds has remained (so far).
With the diamond market taking a hairpin turn and breaking

through the guardrails, the price of diamonds is teetering on the
edge of a precipitous plunge into the unknown depths of the raging
waters of the spring meltdown. We’ve seen large fancy diamonds
selling very well for the past few years, but in the last months,
auction results have been less than exhilarating. There have been
some very important diamonds that haven’t reached their reserve
prices. And auctions are an important point of reference for pricing
on notable diamonds.
In the past few months, we have seen some dealers selling off their
inventories of fancy colour diamonds. Other dealers are charging
more than ever for fancies, and often try to get grades improved to
boost prices. It all comes down to the same thing: sell while you can.
We have seen large numbers of important fancy colour diamonds

sold in the past few years. If a remarkable red or blue diamond
comes into the market in the near future, it will command rich
pricing for its rarity. For other goods, however, it seems likely that
there will be lower prices, which (thanks to less available spending
money) is due to reduced demand. Those who do have spare cash
are aware that the optics of buying and flaunting expensive items
are not good right now.
Appraisers have to remain up to date with pricing as the downward

pressure continues. We will be watching auctions, important
dealers, and other sources. It is quite likely that colour will slide into
the back of the safe until a happier time, and in a few years, the cycle
will start again. [CJ]

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11:36 AM
Page 44
050-053.CJ_BechFeature.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:15 AM Page 46
Combining the
New with the Old
Technology is impacting the way bench jewellers create
by mingling old-world skills with new technologies.
BY BRYAN SOROKA
here is no industry immune to the effects of technology. In switch that has resulted in designs that are considerably more
T fact, the jewellery sector has been inundated with wave after
wave of new, improved technologies in the past few years.
These wonders range from CAD/CAM to laser welders. Though these
sophisticated in both conception and execution. There are still
detractors for these new technologies who argue that the designs are
sterile and lack originality. Those who have taken a shine to it, though,
tools are intended to take jewellery design to the next level, many argue that technology is here to stay and it will shape the future of
artisans have questioned them. The most prevalent concern for a host design no matter what your particular stance may be.
of designers is that these machinations debilitate the emotion and
creativity of creating beautiful, imaginative jewellery. “The best design comes from those who started out creating their own
molds by hand and then moved on to the computer,” Mr. Hillebrand
“Technology can help a lot,” says Dov Hillebrand, a 30-year bench notes. “They have transformed themselves into CAD/CAM users, and
jeweller veteran. “With CAD/CAM, you can create intricate designs you support that with the skills they learned earlier on.”
could never do by hand … you can make it symmetrically perfect.”
However, the master bench jeweller warns, “Using these machines can Most opinions fall somewhere in between, though it is surprising to
make a piece look robotic and can take the passion out of it.” note that earlier jewellery pieces crafted with the help of new
technology were rather simple in their respective design, as the artisans
While Mr. Hillebrand does incorporate some of this advanced tended to focus upon mastering the new techniques needed to
equipment in his design, many of his peers have been loathe to incorporate the technology into their work. As they became more
embrace these new technologies, at least initially. More recently, versed and comfortable, though, designs started becoming
however, many bench jewellers have started using the technology, a more complex.

050-053.CJ_BechFeature.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:15 AM Page 47
benchfeature
In contrast, 24K heat-treatable gold can provide a solution.

Other heat-treatable metals such as platinum provide both malleability
and hardness. However, these advantages are tempered with some
drawbacks. For instance, these metals allow the designer to solder the
wires down and age-harden the alloys following soldering. The wire
stays much healthier, though, and hardens better if it is not completely
annealed (the process of heating and slow cooling in order to toughen
and reduce brittleness) with a torch. This is where the laser welder
comes in handy.
Whatever emerging technologies arise in the future, a bench jeweller’s

primary tool remains the same. “Imagination,” Mr. Hillebrand says
without a doubt. “You have to have imagination and, of course,
passion. A machine cannot produce this.” [CJ]
A New Way of Thinking

For some bench jewellers, introducing a new technology into their
design work inspires them to create something they might not have
otherwise even imagined. The very possibilities can be a source of
inspiration, as new tools can often lead to design ideas. New
technologies can also be applied to old processes to give the artist
freedom to experiment.
Many have found that the unique qualities of the laser welder, for
example, have made their favourite approach to design more practical
as the technology allows them to change the direction of design while
they are actually creating the piece. This particular technological
advancement is becoming more common, which is certainly a
commentary on how bench jewellers perceive it.
Essentially, laser welding utilizes a sharply focused beam of light to

produce very high heat in a small area. This tool is allowing jewellers to
accomplish tasks that would once have been either impossible or too
time consuming. It also lets many experiment and allots them
additional creative freedom. “I had a ring that had an amethyst in it,”
says Selwyn Kahn, who has been a bench jeweller for over 25 years. “I
also had a chain that had little stones set in bezels and connected
directly to the chain with a green tourmaline, which I had laser welded
because I didn’t want to remove the stone, and the only way to fix it was
through laser welding.”
Hot Topics
Numerous bench jewellers are taking full advantage and using the laser
welder with new heat-treatable alloys. A great deal of these craftspeople
have been frustrated by the challenges presented by various metals.
Weaving with fine silver and 14K wire can be too “springy.” Moving on CAD/CAM shows jewellers of all generations how to craft incredibly
to 18K, meanwhile, is not malleable enough, while 22K and 24K can be detailed designs like this brooch.
too much so.

048-051.CJ_MrkWatch_re.qxd:Layout 1 2/2/09 9:53 AM Page 48
The Wide Web World

of Diamond Searching
Online diamond searches present retailers
with a host of opportunities — and just as
many challenges.
BY ROBIN GAMBHIR
“The economic crisis does not represent a cycle; it represents a ‘reset.’ It’s an emotional, social, economic reset.
People who understand that will prosper. Those who don’t will be left behind.”
- Jeff Immelt, CEO of General Electric
Now that we have this golem running amok, the question is how
T
he first Internet diamond search must have been a wondrous
thing for those who experienced it. With this new tool, one should the industry co-opt it so that it can again serve its purpose?
could easily find out what was available and at what price. Sadly, the industry has not been very strategic about this thus far; both
It represented the future of a faster and more efficient marketplace. wholesalers and retailers are either executing poorly on the Web, or not
However, what was once a helpful tool has morphed into a monster at all. In 2009, the margin for error will be slim. When it comes to the
that has commoditized the market it used to serve, not to mention way the industry deploys diamond searches, a reset, like the one
eroding margins. suggested by Jeff Immelt, may be useful.

marketwatch
While Chanel’s site displays high-end luxury, it fails to offer pricing.
OpenBlue’s simplified diamond search allows the consumer to specify

shape, carat weight, brand and budget.
Diamond searches are increasingly playing a direct or indirect role in The OpenBlue diamond search re-thinks the problem by essentially
every sale at the retail level. There are three ways these Internet-based throwing out that playbook. Its diamond search allows the consumer to
searches participate in the sale: specify the shape and the carat weight with options for brands, budget
and to only show Canadian diamonds. That makes it simple for
1. To get competitive pricing by using a third party site like BlueNile.ca; consumers to use, and the addition of other ‘behind the scenes’ features
2. As a quoting system the jeweller uses to get pricing from a supplier; discourages price shopping.
3. As a source of pricing from the jeweller’s site.
Even the car companies, whose products are much bigger ticket items, do
Bad Design not offer their customers the depth of specifications the diamond
It seems that everyone who puts diamonds on the Web operates from the industry does. On Dodge’s site for example, you get a nice, big photo and
same playbook. For some reason they think that consumers always want four specifications: engine displacement, horsepower, torque and fuel
to search using the 4 Cs and, in some cases, that they want every other economy. Or, take a luxury product like a Chanel suit. Chanel’s site does
arcane specification that can be attributed to a diamond. This is most not give you specifications — it does not even give you a price. So, not
likely because diamond searches are designed by engineers who like only are the existing search types needlessly complex, they actually
detailed specifications. undermine a diamond’s luxury status and, as a result, everyone’s margins.
Another reason is that if you want a consumer to surrender their Flawed Assumptions
credit card, you better give them the impression that what they are It seems that every diamond supplier has their own password-protected
buying is measurably better (and less expensive) than what they can diamond search for their retailers. Subsequently, they all sleep
purchase in a store. As a result, even the so-called ‘leaders in the field’ soundly, confident that when a consumer is looking for a diamond, it is
suffer from poor design and usability. As an example, Blue Nile’s site is their search site that the retailer will log in to. However, that is not what
quite cluttered and uses small text — making it difficult to read. And, like happens in reality.
Amazon’s site, it forces consumers to go through many pages of search
results. This approach assumes that clients are or want to become In the real world, a client comes into the store and at some point
diamond experts when in fact they may simply want to know, for during the presentation there will be a discussion about pricing. That will
example, what a 3/4 carat princess will cost before they go to the store. prompt the retailer to go into the back, log in to his favourite
It also gives them the power to price shop with ease. dealer’s site, and get some pricing. He will return to the client with,

The Do’s and Don’ts of Diamond Searches depending upon how good the dealer’s site is, either his card with some
specs and pricing written down or a printout from that site with his
Do: company’s name at the top. The client will take the pricing home and
• Add a search to your own site probably shop the prices he or she has received.
• Use it as a sales tool in your presentations
• Have a laptop available as a kiosk to ensure the
What went wrong here? The first mistake? Leaving the client alone while
customer is never left unattended
the jeweller went to get the pricing. That time away interrupts the flow of
Do Not:
the presentation and gives the consumer time to formulate objections.
• Leave your sales presentation to get pricing It would take three to five minutes per dealer site for the jeweller to log
• Give the customer hand-written pricing in and the longer the client is left unattended, the chance of closing the
• Give the customer pricing he or she can leave with sale diminishes.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Generic Searches Next, handwritten pricing is unprofessional for a luxury product,
and it exposes the jeweller to haggling. A printout makes the price
Advantages firmer and retains the jeweller’s professionalism. Finally, handing
• Easy to use separately or link to from your site a customer written or printed pricing assumes they are leaving
• Usually available at no charge with it.
Disadvantages Diamond Searches on Retailers’ Sites

• Inflexible markups preset by supplier or only allow for a The decision to put a diamond search on your site is about regaining
single markup for all sizes and shapes control of the golem. Do you want your customers to get prices from
• Pre-set markups mean that your prices are the same your site or your competitors’? If you do not even offer the option,
as every other retailer using that system then you have put yourself in the position of having prices dictated to
• Selection only represents the inventory of the you. However, if you have a search and set your margins realistically,
sponsoring supplier then it will have the effect of serving good clients and weeding out the
• Make it easy for customers to price shop you price shoppers. For the OpenBlue search, there is even a half-way
position which shows all the inventory but not the prices.

marketwatch
On sites like Amazon.com customers are forced to go through too

many pages of search results.
Car manufacturer sites do not offer the depth of specifications that

diamond industry sites do.
Before the advent of diamond searches, some retailers posted lists

of diamond prices in text on their site. Some still do. This approach
is ineffective because the lists are often out of date and consumers,
given the option, will use a search system. Another option is
publicly-accessible generic searches that some dealers offer for their
own stock. These sites do not carry the dealer’s name and can be
linked to from your site.
There are U.S. companies that will plug you into what would seem
like an infinite number of stones from dealers and cutters all over
the world. Sounds great, but you don’t know these people and if
your client chooses one of their diamonds, you better get to know
them fast.
Finally, there is the OpenBlue model, which allows you to search

the inventory of multiple suppliers you know and gives you the
ability to add or remove suppliers at any time.
Of course, the best thing to do is to use your own site as a sales tool.
It trains your customers to use it themselves and it shows that the
prices on it are real. Many of the retailers who are running
OpenBlue sites have found they do much better when they use
their sites in their store; some even use their sites as kiosks.
Whichever way you decide to proceed, using the Internet
properly can help take your business to new heights. Who would
have thought that getting caught in the Web could actually be
a good thing? [CJ]

052-055.CJ_Marriage.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:46 AM Page 52
The Ideal Marriage

With a focus on the bridal sector and a sound buying strategy, you
can make the most of your diamond sales for the New Year.
BY MIREILLE THERIAULT

diamondfeature
hile it may be true that “sex sells,” true love is what
W brings a couple both to the altar and, subsequently, to

their jeweller. Across Canada, in this time of economic
uncertainty it may also be the best bet as far as diamond sales since,
historically, for richer or poorer, couples ready to take the plunge tend
not to wait.
“The bridal sector is a significant portion of our business,” says

Anny Kazanjian, District VP of Public Relations and Events for
Birks & Mayors Inc. “Despite everything that’s going on with the
economy people are still getting married. People are still popping the
question and buying diamond engagement rings. That side of the
business is still very viable and lively.”
“We’ve built our reputation as being a diamond company and it’s a

great, stable business to be in because there really isn’t a better way to
express, ‘I love you’ than with a diamond,” says David Sternblitz, VP
and Treasurer of Zales Corporation. “As a company we’ve said publicly
that over 40% of our business is in the engagement and bridal
category. That is a very stable piece of the business and this is what
really separates the jewellery stores from people who sell jewellery.
Typically what people have done for decades and decades is go to a
jewellery store when they want to get an engagement ring. They don’t
go so much to a department store or one of the other merchants or
even online for that matter.”
The same can’t be said for where customers go for their information
before setting foot in a store. The euphoria of romance may set heads
spinning, though it does not mean that they are immune to the
realities of a budget. Whether the individual customer actually has
more or less to spend on the purchase, the emphasis is on value like
never before. Romance matters — but it has a price.
“Everyone is Internet-friendly now and everybody knows what goes

on in price ranges. Customers will look abroad so the key is to offer
true value to Canadian shoppers. If you do, the industry is going to be
extremely strong,” says David Chan, owner of W K Chan Jewellers Ltd.
in Winnipeg. “There’s no question of that in Manitoba,” he adds.
With Peoples and Mappins stores spanning coast to coast, Sternblitz

couldn’t agree more. “While the customer wants value they also very
much want quality and that’s probably the overriding factor. They
won’t trade down to inferior quality and will still pay for better quality
merchandise. We see that Canada is very much a nationalistic country.
I wouldn’t say as much that Canadians are looking for conflict-free as
much as saying that they love Canadian product and that certainly
applies to buying Canadian diamonds. Plus what’s coming out of the
ground in Canada is very high quality.”
FEBRUARY / M A R C H 2 0 0 9 CJ 53
“We started promoting Canadian diamonds many years ago and have “You need to buy well to sell well no matter what strategy a specific
built a solid reputation on providing diamonds that are not jeweller has,” Chan says. “Consumers are very fickle. They waffle about
only mined, but also cut, polished and finished in Canada,” says Chan. price all the time. You are, in effect, shopping for your customer and so it
“That said, we know the majority of all diamonds are conflict-free as comes back to you to find the best value. If you buy well, you’ll sell well.”
far as the industry is concerned but are consumers actually concerned
about it? I can only assume they are, so the vast majority of the As far as knowing your customers, Chan says, they certainly stock
diamonds we do sell at all the W K Chan stores in diamond stores differently among their six locations around Winnipeg. In
engagement rings and solitaires are Canadian diamonds.” Brandon, however, the majority of bridal jewellery features traditional
white diamonds. “We do sell coloured diamonds and do well with
Whether large or medium chains or even as an independent family them. But for the most part, they are something that customers are just
business like Bijouterie Richard Richer in Montreal, being able to offer curious about,” he adds.
Canadian diamonds is definitely a plus. However, as Owner Linda
Richer observes, “Even though not a lot of our clientele, maybe 15%, Richer echoes that her Montreal clientele is very traditional, even when
are specifically asking for certified conflict-free diamonds, knowing it comes to cuts. “We see a lot of rounds and maybe a few princesses,
where it comes from and that it can be traced at any time because of its but rarely do we get a demand for an emerald cut or a pear shape,” she
registration number is a nice selling point.” says. To satisfy the customer looking for the unique, Richer turns to
designers such as Tacori and Simon G.
While customers have more resources than ever to comparison shop,
this can also present a wonderful opportunity for retailers to rise to the Kazanjian says that the same applies to Birks & Mayors. “The Birks blue
challenge of customer education as the finer points of picking the is the most highly recognized diamond brand although we have a
finest diamond for the dollar truly comes to the forefront. Yet before whole line called Botswana Diamonds over and above the Amorique
you can pass on that value to your customer, it means carrying the Diamonds.” As far as trends, Kazanjian enthuses on the growing
right stock and that comes down to matching the expectations of the popularity of pink gold emerging as a key trend in the bridal sector.
consumer on many levels. Certainly, knowing your customers is key “We have a beautiful Amorique ring we’ll be launching this February
when trying to second guess what is going to appeal to them in your in 18-carat pink gold with an intense pavé of pink diamonds and a one
showcase, both in style and price points. carat-plus white diamond in the setting.”

diamondfeature
Sternblitz says that as far as buying strategies are concerned, “We

do tailor some specific merchandise in Mappins towards a slightly
“You are, in effect, higher-end customer but there are a lot of synergies from running
multiple brands. We try to run the brands efficiently but tailor
shopping for your individual differences where possible by location as well as by
brand.” Up to a point, he says customers are blind to the majority
customer and so it of specific brands they carry. “They see us as the brand. We will
and are looking at adding some proprietary brands, but for the
comes back to you to most part it really is Peoples or Mappins that is the brand they
most recognize.”
find the best value. If you
“I can tell you at a high level, sort of as a starting point, one of the
buy well, you’ll sell well.” focuses not only in Canada but in the entire Company, is a focus
on bringing more clarity to the merchandise statement,” says
Sternblitz. “To do that, we are removing some of the clutter, not
only in the merchandise cases but in the whole customer
experience in terms of signage you would see in our stores. In the
last nine months or so, we have been clearing some merchandise
as part of this strategy. We have been narrowing down
the assortment.” [CJ]
056-059.CJ_Company.qxd:Layout 1 1/29/09 11:49 AM Page 56
A Charming Outlook
As one of the most recognized bracelet and charm brands in the industry,
Pandora is going strong even amidst uncertain economic times.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
andora, a globally recognized brand of fine jewellery, is available in 18
P countries around the world. This is quite an achievement, especially

when you consider that it was just over 25 years ago that the Company
was a two-man business. Since then, its members have grown to a team of 35
located at its head office in Copenhagen, with another 100 members servicing
North America and 1,000 additional employees working out of Pandora
Productions, its factory in Thailand.
The Company has enjoyed a steady rate of growth since establishing itself, and
according to Glenn Reinecke, Vice President, Pandora Canada, this success has
hinged on numerous factors. “We’re definitely a leader in what we do,” he says
in regards to Pandora’s bracelet and charm concept. “I think excellent product,
good positioning in the market … we have tremendous exposure and very
broad-based advertising in North America. It’s a winning formula.”
Growth Patterns
There is no arguing the fact that Pandora has continued to achieve throughout
its history, though this level of success was not quite so noticeable until some
10 years ago when the Company originated its bracelet concept. “It really took
off,” Mr. Reinecke notes. Further to this, he comments that Pandora’s growth
since the 1980s has been nothing short of astounding. “We’re represented in
some 20 countries around the world today.” The Company recently went
through a significant change in March 2008, when the Danish equity company,
Axel, bought part of the Company. Today, Pandora is owned in part by the
original owners and by Axel. Glenn Reinecke, Vice President, Pandora Canada.

companyprofile
“... we have tremendous exposure and very broad-based

advertising in North America. It’s a winning formula.
”
Product Line-up
Pandora creates a broad spectrum of lines devoted to numerous
categories, including charms, bracelets, chains, rings, earrings,
brooches, toe rings and the recently launched Mix & Match line.
“Basically, the line includes earrings that have a post that you can
attach various dangles to,” Mr. Reinecke explains. “It’s proven to be a
tremendous success in the global market.”
As to who can be found wearing Pandora jewellery, Mr. Reinecke says

the demographic is quite broad — women aged 17 to 70. “You’re
getting very good jewellery at affordable prices,” he says. He adds that
the materials used in Pandora jewellery are also varied, as are the
price points. “You’re starting off with a silver bead for $30 and
moving up to a gold bead for $400 and anything else in between.”
Core consumers are described as women, age 35 to 55. “These are
women who shop in stores where Pandora products are available …
jewellery stores and high-end gift shops throughout Canada.”
A cornerstone to Pandora’s success is how its products strike a chord

with such a wide spectrum of consumers, which is something
retailers have also certainly benefited from. “Because you have this
broad market, our retailer customers are experiencing a lot of repeat
business,” he states. “You’re bringing in a whole new market that you
previously didn’t have access to.”
Mr. Reinecke says that, typically, retailers who sell Pandora

merchandise turn product over 10 to 11 times per year, which
is exceptional. “Traditionally, [retailers] only turn over products
once or twice a year,” he says. Pandora designers continue to create
pieces of matching jewellery, which complement existing charms
and bracelets “to create a well-rounded line,” adds Mr. Reinecke. Pandora’s Danish line of 14K gold and sterling sliver jewellery includes
“We’re doing this to basically create a line that’s going to have a long a unique collection of charm bracelets, matching jewellery and earrings
that lets you create a look to match your mood.
shelf life.”

Mix and Match earrings

consist of a number of hoops
in sterling silver and 14K
gold, with no less than 74
different charms.
Unique by Design A common thread weaving throughout all Pandora creations is

As noted by the Canadian VP, stones are not the focal point of Pandora “uniqueness and quality of design.” This statement is certainly
jewellery, but rather it is the unique design that attracts most people.“We confirmed by the number of consumers that keep coming back for
do feature rubies, diamonds and semi-precious stones,” he notes, “but more. “Our best salespeople are those that own our jewellery,” Mr.
what really draws attention is the unique designs themselves.” Insofar as Reinecke says. “The enthusiasm and excitement [Pandora jewellery]
precious metals are concerned, Pandora crafts its jewellery from sterling generates … I’ve never seen anything like it before.” The Vice
silver, 14K gold, and the Company also carries a two-tone gold and silver President also says that once a family member buys a Pandora piece,
line.“We’re in the process of launching an 18K line,” Mr. Reinecke reveals. it extends to all members of the clan. “It’s an easy and convenient
The line, called Love Pods, is based on an organic theme and will include gift because it celebrates special moments,” he explains.
collectable rings, earrings and necklaces.“It’s aimed at a high income core
of our market,” he says. Retailer Support
Pandora supports its retailers with several ongoing programs,
Love Pods has been developed by a duo of designers who have been which include a host of in-store signage. “We supply retailers with
specifically employed by Pandora to create this line. “Our core products all point of sale materials … a lot of time and effort is spent on the
are designed by [Pandora’s] original designers,” Mr. Reinecke points out. visual directives of what we’re selling.” Pandora further helps
This pair of jewellery artisans, who work out of Denmark, have been with its retailers via an extensive advertising co-op program to assist
the Company since day one. Other key Canadian personnel include Mr. with promotions. A packaging co-op, meanwhile, ensures retailers
Reinecke and a middle management team, who report to Pandora’s U.S. receive a refund for whatever packaging they purchase from
office in Columbia, Maryland. the Company.

companyprofile
“Throughout North America, we have vast [advertising] coverage in

the more popular magazines,” he points out. “We also have
merchandisers that assist customers with their merchandising
requirements, and sales reps that assist wherever necessary together
with a competent core of customer representatives. It’s a well-
rounded team.”
The Company also makes sure to share its success with those less
fortunate by donating to various charities. “We have an ongoing
relationship with the Canadian Breast Cancer Association through a
partnership with Susan G. Komen,” he says. “And we have created a
special charm for the International One World Health, a nonprofit
“... it’s a pretty volatile business,
but to date, we haven’t felt any
pharmaceutical company, where a portion of every bead sold goes
to providing affordable vaccines to children in developing countries.
So far, we have been able to contribute over $165,000 to One World
downturn.
”
Health in 2008.”
Moving Ahead
Pandora’s plans going into the New Year are to increase its exposure
in the eastern corridor — from the Niagara region to Quebec. “Also,
we want to possibly partner with someone for our Shop-in-Shop
concept, which is a Pandora store within a store,” says Mr. Reinecke.
“It’s similar with what you see at Holt Renfrew.” For this particular
initiative, Mr. Reinecke says that the Company will select partners
that share Pandora’s values, and if the right ones do come up, the
plans will move ahead.
When it comes to the state of the current jewellery market, Mr.

Reinecke says “it’s a pretty volatile business, but to date, we haven’t
felt any downturn.” He adds that this might not be the case as the
year progresses, however, for the time being, the Company has not
seen a slow down in sales whatsoever. In terms of where Pandora
finds itself in the marketplace, Mr. Reinecke states, “We still have a
lot of ground to cover in Canada.” Which is certainly good news, for
both Pandora and its retailer partners. [CJ]
Handcrafted charm bracelets and rings in 14K gold

and sterling silver with available semi-precious gems
— many pieces can be personalized to reflect one’s
personal style.

046-051.CJ_CoverStory.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:13 AM Page 60
Judy Richards, Owner of Davidson’s Jewellers.

coverstory
An Illustrious
Legacy
With a devout focus on quality lines and highly personalized
service, Davidson’s Jewellers has remained one of Ottawa’s
leading retailers for nearly 70 years.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
P HOTOGRAPHY BY J ÉRÔME X. S CULLINO
o discover Davidson’s Jewellers’ origins, you have to go all the way
T back to the Great Depression, where a young man named Eastman

Davidson was pondering his future. Born in our nation’s capital, the
hopeful young man moved with his family to Detroit, Michigan, where he
attended high school. Half days were filled with academic studies and the
remaining hours were spent learning a trade. His choice was jewellery
making. When the family returned to Ottawa, he secured employment with
a downtown jeweller, where he honed his watch making skills.

Not long after, the entrepreneurial Mr. Davidson transformed the location when it became available in 1964,” Ms. Richards comments.
living room of his family home into a workshop, and opened his own “It’s a wonderful corner allowing us four additional show windows on
watch repair business by taking jobs from the trade. Then, in 1939, the side street.”
with $200 in his pocket and a line of credit from the Bulova Watch
Company and Wm. Smith & Son, a flatware and hollowware According to Ms. Richards, Davidson’s is one of the top jewellery
manufacturer, he opened his own store in the Glebe, a new subdivision retailers in the Ottawa region — success that, ironically, can be partly
on the south side of downtown Ottawa. attributed to the store’s location. “It was an affluent area in the 30s and
40s,” she notes. “A few people in the industry thought [my father] was
Originally called Davidson’s Glebe Jewellers, Judy Richards began working crazy to go out into the suburbs to start a business.” The decision
for her father when she was 10 years old. “In those days, we sold a lot of worked — 70 years later, the Glebe is a trendy shopping area with many
giftware. I used to come in after school and on Saturdays and I’d make upscale boutiques — and Mr. Davidson’s loyal clientele has left his
two cents for every folding box I put together,” Ms. Richards says. “Five daughter an impressive legacy. “I’m now seeing many third generation
boxes were just enough to buy a chocolate bar,” she jokes. In 1972, Ms. customers,” she says proudly.
Richards started working in the store full-time after earning a graduate
jeweller’s degree from the Canadian Jewellers Institute. “I followed that Behaviour Patterns
with a certificate in jewellery design and took some GIA diamond and So how have things changed since Davidson’s first opened its doors for
coloured stone courses.” business? “When we first opened,” says Ms. Richards, “a very dignified
client said, ‘I have my doctor, my lawyer, my accountant and you’re
In the Right Place going to be my jeweller.’ In general, people don’t have that kind of
Today, Davidson’s operates out of a beautiful 1,500 square-foot store, loyalty to their jewellers quite so much anymore, though we have been
which is located at Bank Street and 3rd Avenue, a mere two doors away fortunate enough to maintain a loyal and longstanding clientele. Even
from where Mr. Davidson opened the first store.“We moved to the current today, most of our clients come to us through referral.”

coverstory
Today the Davidson’s Jewellers customer is typically a self-

purchasing affluent female, aged 35-55, followed by well-
established families. She notes that her store does not necessarily
get the first round engagement ring buyer, a consumer who she
feels tends to gravitate towards the mall. “I think people are really
into their 30’s before they feel comfortable enough to enter a locked
security system store such as ours,” she says. “Mind you, once
inside, many are pleasantly surprised by the welcoming
environment and the friendly staff.” “My philosophy is to teach, allowing
the customer to make an informed
Ms. Richards is now doing business with a more informed clientele,
decision, which he or she can be
although this heightened awareness is not always positive. “When it
comes to the cut of diamonds,” she says, “a lot of people get caught up
in the technical aspects and forget to experience the beauty of the stone.”
”
comfortable with.
According to Ms. Richards, what keeps her customers coming back

is the confidence they have in the retailer. “We’ve maintained the
family values and we’re not high pressure,” she explains. “My
philosophy is to teach, allowing the customer to make an informed
decision, which he or she can be comfortable with.”
Categorically Speaking
Davidson’s Jewellers offers a variety of grades of diamonds. This
expansive collection is intended to cater to an equally diverse array
of consumers. “There are customers that want the biggest show for
their money and others who want the best diamond they can
afford. We walk them through all of the options and let the client
make an informed decision,” Ms. Richards says. Rounding out the
retailer’s product offering is bridal, diamond jewellery, Simon G.,
Faberge, gold, pearls, watches and high fashion sterling silver.
Davidson’s focus has changed over the years. “Recently, we’ve been
using more American lines because our dollar was so high. Now, it’s
swinging back the other way, so we’ll have to reevaluate,” Ms.
Richards explains. “Our most successful line is Simon G. I met
Simon and his wife at the Centurion show in Tucson [a private
buying show] and fell in love with them as well as their product. I
started importing Simon G. jewellery into Canada approximately
four years ago.”
“Exotica by Herra” features

various colours of quartz
accented with diamonds.
Available at Davidson’s
Jewellers.

The retailer also carries Master Design from Toronto. “Their new Ms. Richards is proud to say that her staff and clients have developed
Exotica line is exciting and doing very well,” Ms. Richards notes. “We close-knit relationships. “Aside from being asked to attend parties and
also carry Flica & Begli, from a Montreal firm with a range of gold and dinners, one of my staff was actually asked to be a maid of honour for
diamond jewellery. We sell a lot of Corona — especially its Canadian one of our clients,” she says. “I continually receive wonderful
diamond jewellery set in Canadian gold.” In fact, at Davidson’s, compliments on my staff.”
Canadian diamonds reign supreme.
To ensure all staff members are experts in their related fields, Davidson’s
Vianna from Brazil, which features larger native gemstones, is also a employees are members of the American Gem Society. “Two are registered
strong seller. “Women love these designs, but the best performing jewellers and our gemologist is working towards his AGS designation to
categories are still diamond pendants and earrings.” Ms. Richards also become a CGA [certified gemologist appraiser],” says Ms. Richards.
does a fair amount of pearl business and while they carry some brands Members of the team also attend industry functions, including the AGS
of watches, these products do not represent her strongest selling areas. Conclave, a four-day educational event, held every year at various
locations throughout North America.
To support its lineup of products, Davidson’s provides its customers
with a full line of services. These include jewellery and watch repair, Selective Communication
appraisals, re-styling, gold recycling, custom design, hand engraving When it comes to communicating with customers, Davidson’s follows
and pearl restringing. They also host custom design events. “Myerson’s its core business model by taking a more personal approach. “We
from Toronto sends a designer once or twice a year for a clinic,” says concentrate on ‘in-store’ events and direct mail, via post or email, to
Ms. Richards, who is a designer herself. “Each customer gets an keep in touch with our clients and encourage referrals,” Ms. Richards
appointment to work directly with a designer. Generally, clients bring says. “We do some radio and newspaper advertising, but I basically
older pieces to transform them into something new.” look at all of that as institutional advertising … just keeping your name
out there.” Davidson’s also sponsors numerous charity projects, such as
People Make the Difference golf tournaments, silent auctions and, with the help of Cathy
As customer service is a cornerstone of the retailer’s success, Davidson’s McMurray of Basal Diamonds, once offered a trip to Yellowknife and
invests heavily in its staff. Currently, the store is operated with seven the Ekati Diamond Mine to raise funds for Canadian Olympic athletes.
people, including Ms. Richards. “We have a store manager, a
gemologist/appraiser, four sales associates and someone who handles Furthering its intimate marketing approach, the retailer holds various
inventory, shipping and receiving.” As to what she looks for in an in-store events including a Gemstone Roundtable Evening. “We qualify
employee? “Common sense,” Ms. Richards replies quickly. “You can about a dozen or so people and seat guests at a long, thin table
teach product knowledge and gemology but you can’t teach common positioned down the centre of our store.” Ms. Richards details. “We
sense. Associates also need to have a sense of warmth and empathy serve canapés and wine from six ‘til eight, while our gemstone cutter
towards clients.” reveals the beauty of about 100 stones he’s recently cut.”

coverstory
While guests enjoy their food and wine, the stones are passed
around for closer inspection. “We make a bit of a game of it.
For example if a guest sees something they want to see again,
they say ‘first dibs on number 23.’ If anyone else wants to see it,
they say ‘second dibs.’” Staff members take note of the clients’
interests and by evening’s end, guests often purchase more than one
unique gemstone.
Changing with the Times

When it comes to the retailer’s overall business, Ms. Richards points out that
throughout the years Davidson’s has gone more upscale. “In the mid-80s, “Faberge” limited edition 18K
everyone got in on the gold chain business, with many selling by the gram. It’s french enamel set with internally
then that I decided we had to either mass merchandise or revamp our flawless diamonds. Available at
Davidson’s Jewellers.
professional jeweller image. Since that’s what we’ve always been successful
with, that’s what we did.” Ms. Richards adds that over the past 10 years,
the industry has been inundated with branded merchandise, and
although she carries some well-known lines, in her opinion, her
most valuable brand is Davidson’s.
Right along with the industry, consumers’ needs have changed as

well. “People are pressed for time and want everything to happen
yesterday,” she notes. Thus, her strategy is to relax the client and
romance the product. “Buyers need to experience the intricate design,
exceptional workmanship and [the] process involved in creating a
magnificent piece of jewellery.” Ms. Richards understands that the Internet
gives everyone easy access to photos, however, she believes people still want
to touch and feel fine jewellery, which gives brick and mortar retailers the edge.
Ms. Richards admits that her store, just like most others, has certainly been affected
by Canada’s economic climate — customers are still shopping, though they are
not comfortable spending quite the same amount as in previous years. “I
think 2009 will be a year of retail challenges and internal changes,” she
states. During the slowdown, Davidson’s plans to analyze costs and
expenditures as well as streamline merchandise by carefully watching
price points and replacing fast sellers. “You can’t afford to be
overstocked in these economic times. If people are not in spending
mode, there’s not much you can do,” she says. During the next three
months, sales associates will focus on selling repairs and services
such as appraisals, as well as remounting clients’ existing jewellery.
Looking towards the future, Ms. Richards is confident that the

luxury jewellery market will always be strong. “People still have
birthdays and anniversaries every year … happy times to celebrate,
and will always look for something commemorative.” With that
being said, she firmly believes that fine jewellers will be able to
sustain themselves, especially those offering full service. “The
chain and mall jewellery stores might experience a
downturn,” Ms. Richards concludes, “but the truly
‘professional’ jeweller will survive this rough patch and
look forward to the future.” [CJ]

066-067.CJ_Investment.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:33 AM Page 66
Mix n’ Match
Diversify your merchandise to meet customer needs.
BY CLAIRE SYKES
tockbrokers advise it, gym trainers encourage it, and forests cannot Mixing the Right Match
S live without it. Diversity. When it comes to your jewellery store,

diversifying your merchandise, like any smart retail strategy, can
help you thrive in the face of tough competition or a rough economy. If
So what to carry? That depends on several considerations. Let’s
begin with your customers. Ask them about their jewellery interests
and what new products they would like to see at your store.
sales have slowed due to a chain-store newcomer, a seasonal slump, the Secondly, you should consider your competition. Take note what
economic downturn or your store’s own poor merchandise management, other jewellery stores sell, and consider what you could carry that
adding a new product category can boost your bottom line. they do not.
If business is already booming, diversifying can give you the growth Also, why not turn to friends, family members, staff and vendors
spurt to expand. Just think how much better you can compete when to help you select the most successful products? You might be
you give your customers more reasons to shop in your jewellery store. surprised by their knowledge. Your current offerings should be
After all, when you diversify your merchandise, customers appreciate revisited as well. Consider what you already sell, and choose
the fact that you provide a varied inventory selection and that your comparable or complementary merchandise. Finally, keep in mind
product selection works together as a whole. It’s a formula that will your level of product knowledge, budget and space, and what you
keep them loyal for years to come. can reasonably accomplish.

066-067.CJ_Investment.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 10:33 AM Page 67
merchandisefeature
“... diversifying your merchandise, like any smart retail strategy, can
help you thrive in the face of tough competition or a rough economy.
”
Diversifying your merchandise does not mean trying to answer to everyone

out there. Instead, keep in mind your store’s focus and your customers’
needs. For example, people who buy jewellery may also enjoy silk scarves 10 Questions to Ask Yourself Before Diversifying
and leather belts. But by carrying these, you risk confusing your clientele.
1. How do I define my store? Look at what you sell
Therefore, if you sell gold watches and diamond pendants, stock more of and how you view your business. Do you like what
them in a higher or lower price point, or add a new brand of them (without you see?
shifting your store image). Introduce an entirely new category, as long as it 2. How do customers perceive my store? Ask them
is related to your specialty or customers’ preferences. For instance, if you are what they see, and compare their views with yours.
known for sterling silver jewellery, include silver desk clocks and pen sets in If the two are similar, your perceptions are accurate.
the mix. 3. Why do I want to diversify? Consider your
business goals. Does incorporating new products or
Shoot for the optimum amount of new product. Too much and you risk a categories fit with where you want to go?
larger financial loss if it does not work out. Too little and your customers may 4. How is my current product mix doing? Note the
wonder how serious you are, which could influence their decision to buy. average transaction amount, sales per category and
sales per square foot. Are you pleased?
Face the Challenges 5. How frequently do shoppers visit? Consider
Adding new product could shake up your customers’ perceptions of your existing and new customers in this tally. Could you
store’s identity — unless you do it right. Maintain enough of your regular use more store traffic?
merchandise while developing new categories. Take a small dip, and test it 6. Do I have the space? If not, adding new product
out. Then, risk a bigger plunge, and give yourself a six-month trial window. may mean it replaces a current offering or you need
to lease more space. Can you afford either?
Inside your jewellery store, give the new category sufficient representation. 7. Do I have the budget? Can you realistically allot
Display it prominently and with confidence, so it does not look like an additional dollars to a new category? Is it wise to dip
afterthought. The best place is at the front and to the right of your store into savings or get a loan?
entrance, where shoppers cannot miss it. Cross-merchandise with other 8. Do I have the product knowledge for this
related products, in attractive realistic vignettes, to inspire add-on sales. Do category? You may not, but you could always
not forget signage. Monitor sales of the new category and determine if the learn, with the help of your vendors.
product is generating enough revenues to continue carrying it. 9. Am I prepared to train my staff? They will need to
be educated about any new product so they can
Like everything else about your business, diversifying your product mix is sell it effectively.
an ongoing process. It is also a bit of a gamble. However, if you do your 10. Am I willing to take the time? You will need
research, prepare your staff, and make room for that new product in your time to do product research, train staff, market,
budget and your store, your customers will enjoy the rewards that come promote, and develop relationships with
with the risks — and you will revel in the successful results. [CJ] new vendors.

068.CJ Western Can.Expo.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:39 AM Page 44
The Western Canadian

Jewellery Expo ha w
es to the S mov
After 30 years, the Edmonton-based Western Canadian Jewellery Expo (WCJE) is moving downtown to
the Shaw, one of Canada’s premier conference facilities.
This year’s show will be held August 12th to 14th, 2009 and the exciting new venue will host some new
events including the first annual Canadian Rockies Design Awards. You can also take in the fourth annual
Learn More – Earn More seminar series featuring Nick Failla of Premier Innovations. Finally, DiGem’s second
annual Evening of Digem Decadence will be larger and even more exciting. All jewellers and exhibitors are
invited to purchase tickets for this dinner and dessert auction benefiting the Canadian Cancer Foundation.
For more information on these and other show details, please visit www.wcjexpo.com.
Western Canadian Jewellery Expo

August 12-14, 2009
Shaw Conference Centre - Halls BC
900 902 904 906 908 910 912 914 916 918 920
831
8' 8' 8' 10' 10' 10' 10' 9'-6"
128 129 228 229 328 329 428 429 528 529 628 629 728 729 828 829
126 127 226 227 326 327 426 427 526 527 626 627 726 727 826 827
124 125 224 225 324 325 424 425 524 525 624 625 724 725 824 825
122 823
120 121 220 221 320 321 420 421 520 521 620 621 720 721 820 821
118 119 218 219 318 319 418 419 518 519 618 619 718 719 818 819
116 117 216 217 316 317 416 417 516 517 616 617 716 717 816 817
114 815
112 113 212 213 312 313 412 413 512 513 612 613 712 713 812 813
110 111 210 211 310 311 410 411 510 511 610 611 710 711 810 811
108 109 208 209 308 309 408 409 508 509 608 609 708 709 808 809
106 807
104 105 204 205 304 305 404 405 504 505 604 605 704 705 804 805
102 103 202 203 302 303 402 403 502 503 602 603 702 703 802 803
100 101 200 201 300 301 400 401 500 501 600 601 700 701 800 801
801A
ENTRANCE

069.CJ Rockies Design ad.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:50 AM Page 44

075-077.CJ_Feature.qxd:Layout 1 2/2/09 9:51 AM Page 70
Re-examining Your
Buying Strategies
Why less is often more in difficult economic times.
BY ANITA WEBSTER
n early 2009, the phrase “tighten the reigns” tended to dominate in Of course, the purchasing strategy you develop depends on many
I conversations about buying strategies with Canadian jewellery

retailers. In the current economic clime, industries across the
country are holding their collective breath to see what will transpire. As
factors. “When times are good you can carry too much inventory,” says
Charania, “but now I try to have just what I need. I have slimmed
down my inventory in terms of dollar value and am focusing on lower
they do, many jewellery buyers are adjusting their strategies to steer price point items that turn faster.”
through it — though these adjustments, for the most part, are gradual.
Charania describes Jubilee as an upscale jewellery store. In business
Mo Charania, Owner of Ottawa’s Jubilee Fine Jewellers and a past- since 1952, the four Ottawa locations cater to its clients with such
President of the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA), says his notable brands as Chopard, Bulgari and Mikimoto. “We cater to the
approach to buying centres around choosing wisely and sparingly. “I’ve carriage trade,” he elaborates. “To our customers, branded products
made some changes to my approach, but they are subtle and informed are very important and, as many of the major brands are not available
changes,” he says. “I am not doing anything drastic.” in Canada, we deal with suppliers all over the world.”

buyingfeature
Though his inventory is reduced, there are some items Charania will
always have on hand. “I will keep some must-have articles such as
diamond earrings in popular sizes. Buying diamond studs is often a
spur of the moment, emotional purchase. If a customer wants them
and we don’t have them, they’ll just go somewhere else. So I make sure
I have one, two, four thousand-dollar diamond studs in stock. Maybe
not $50,000 dollar pairs, though.”
Kim Brinkhaus of Brinkhaus Jewellers lets her experience and instinct

guide her when buying for the Calgary and Vancouver stores she runs
with her husband, Norbert. “After doing this for 25 years, much of
what I choose is by instinct,” she says. Asked if this is changing as the
economy shrinks, she says it has and, in turn, she has become more
cautious. “We have tightened the reigns over the last year or so. We are
working hard at managing our inventory, and I’d say I’m not taking as
many risks or buying something just because I love it. I’m being more
cautious and calculating.”
Kim and Norbert Brinkhaus do most of their buying out of the

country. She buys the jewellery and he purchases watches and
gemstones. They attend four trade shows a year — two in Geneva, one
in Las Vegas and one in Tucson. They deal primarily with European
designers, mostly from Germany and Italy. “We have relationships with
people we have worked with for a long, long time so when we travel to
a trade show we see these people,” Kim says. “But I always leave a day
for something new.”
Kim Brinkhaus draws a parallel — in business terms — to the

economic climate in the early 80s and to the events of September 11,
2001. “Of course the events were very different [from this situation]
but all were dramatic and traumatic and had an effect on business and
people’s lives. What we found then, and I expect this time, is that life
moves on … people still celebrate and look for something of value. In
times like this they will buy what lasts rather than spend wildly.” Tanya Parrish, Senior Director of Marketing at Peoples/Mappins, says
the system was becoming cumbersome. “Over the years we had a
As a result, she aims to keep Brinkhaus’ inventory “smart and saleable.” tendency to find one item, one vendor and one buyer. Then we looked
Other changes she has seen revolve around business practices. “Some up and saw we were doing business with an awful lot of vendors. It
of our suppliers have asked if they can give us merchandise on memo really complicated our system.” She says in Canada the stores had over
[consignment] so we could take more inventory. But we don’t do 100 vendors for one or two SKUs in a year. Reducing the number of
business that way.” SKUs in the stores has “pulled the clutter out and made the
merchandise assortment stronger,” she adds. “We felt we were over-
Last year Brinkhaus Jewellers became a subsidiary of Birks & Mayors. sorted. Now we have more clarity.”
The Calgary and Vancouver stores are run independently of the
parent company. The buyers at the retailer Peoples/Mappins Jewellers, Sternblitz says the Company, which has 65 Mappins and 149 Peoples
part of Zale Corporation in the U.S., have also made the shift to stores in Canada, has reduced its vendor-base by two-thirds over the past
reducing inventory. At the same time they have streamlined their year. This has made them more important and better known to each
buying practices. vendor and improved the relationship in general. “Tightening our
vendor base in Canada has meant each vendor is significant and has
VP and Treasurer for Zale Corporation, David Sternblitz, says this a reason to exist in our group and we know they understand how
change of approach was already underway when the economic Canadian consumers buy. They truly become partners in doing business
downturn hit. The two dovetailed nicely. “With our buying practices with us and help us maintain the standards we are looking for.”
for jewellery, we’ve been going more direct,” he says. “We’re making
improvements to our supply chain, leveraging more of the expertise we Mo Charania has these words of advice to the industry: “In times like
have to create sourcing groups.” He goes on to say that they have these we can ill-afford to lose customers,” he says. “I hope to see these
started working with vendors, sourcing more directly and eliminating times as a lesson going forward for all of us. We need to be more
the middleman. As a result, he feels they are getting better prices and careful with our buying. This is a good opportunity to change
controlling the quality better. our practices.” [CJ]

Business
from the Heart
Donating your time and money to charitable organizations is a feel-good
proposition, and better still, can have a positive impact on your bottom line.
BY MARIE POWELL
here are a multitude of Canadian jewellery retailers that “It becomes more of an image-building enterprise, and it’s a delicate
T support local charities and organizations. The reasons are

varied: to give back to the community and to feel a sense of
personal satisfaction are but a few. Whatever the reasons, aligning your
enterprise because it has to be seen as genuine and real,” Pyle says. “And
it doesn’t have to stop at writing a cheque.”
business with a charitable organization is a win-win situation. There are three ways to show support, and financial contributions
represent only one of them. The second involves volunteer hours.
One retailer who engages in regular charitable efforts is Ryan Eberts, “Having the employees or owner volunteering their time can be almost
Co-owner of Regina’s Fire and Ice Custom Jewellery and Repair. He says as big of a brand-building enterprise as a charitable donation,”
his business chooses children’s charities, like the burn fund or Pyle says. A third possibility is merchandise in kind, Pyle suggests.
pediatrics at local hospitals. “It’s more for personal satisfaction,” he The charity may then auction off that merchandise to raise funds.
explains. “For me, it seems like it’s the best cause — help them when
they’re young.” From a more practical business perspective, donations may also be a
tax deduction for incorporated businesses, says Larry Baran, CMA. For
Above and beyond helping those in need, supporting charities can also merchandise donations, incorporated businesses must treat the fair
become part of a solid business plan or strategy. “The key is to be able market value of the donation as income, and then deduct it as a
to specifically tie in to a particular charity as a way to enhance your donation. Proprietorships or non-incorporated businesses must treat
business’ image,” says Andrew Pyle, Wealth Advisor with ScotiaMcLeod. it as income, and deduct a tax credit from their personal income taxes.
Pyle advises businesses to choose a charity that will help strengthen ties “It gets a little confusing for businesses with respect to donating items,”
to the local community, since it is also their main marketplace. The Baran adds. “All I can suggest is that they consult with their accountant
charity should also be consistent with the business brand or image. before they do it, not after.”

charityfeature
Business owners or managers should align their business with a Members can contribute via separate cheque with their 2009
charity consistent with their own philosophies, Pyle adds. Many membership renewal and at the end of 2009, CJA will match member
choose a charity for personal reasons, such as a family connection, contributions to a maximum of $10,000. JDRF will then allocate the
for example. donations back to members’ local chapters across the country,
Mulhall adds.
Gina and Tony Siwic, Owners/Managers of Regina’s Jewellery Factory
Inc., donate funds, volunteer hours, and merchandise for raffles to “We encourage retailers to give at that local level,” he says. “We believe
support a variety of charities. Their main charitable activities relate to this national program will complement their own [regional giving]
their Polish heritage. For example, they support the local Polish dance programs.” Mulhall says an increased local business profile will be
group where their two daughters danced while growing up, and their something that happens naturally thanks to community involvement.
local Polish church and social clubs. They volunteer at events like “Our members care, and want to reach out to the community and give
Mosaic, a local heritage celebration each June, and donate back,” Mulhall says. “It shows that beyond the bottom line of making
merchandise for local functions. money, there’s a heart.”
Other advantages of giving locally, Pyle says, include increasing the Birks & Mayors Inc. encourages its retail stores to support local events
business presence in local media, raising the business image or profile and charities. “It’s our socially responsible way of thinking,” says Anny
with organizers and participants during the event, and helping to Kazanjian, Divisional Vice President of Public Relations and Events.
build their reputation within the local community. “We’re a world-class brand with a heart.” As a corporation, Birks &
Mayors was one of the first in the sector to endorse the Boreal Forest
For Peter Norton from Nortons Jewellers Ltd. in Charlottetown, P.E.I., Conservation Framework. It supports many charities including
donating his efforts stems from a more personal place. “It’s great to be Hope and Cope Foundation in Montreal, children’s hospitals and the
involved and give back to the community that you deal in,” he says. arts. “We are a brand that wants to go out and support the initiatives in
“These are not only our customers but they’re our friends and the communities that we operate in because the communities support
acquaintances.” our business,” Kazanjian says. “It’s about giving back. I think that’s what
good social responsibility is all about. We’re hoping in our own way that
Nortons is the main sponsor of the Razzle Dazzle Red annual we can make a difference.”
Valentine’s formal dance for the local Heart and Stroke Foundation
chapter. He donates merchandise for silent auction, from supplier For David Sternblitz, Vice President and Treasurer of Zale Corporation,
giftware to a set of diamond earrings. Now in its fifth year, the target is supporting charitable organizations is important especially in the
$60,000 from auction proceeds and tickets to help reach the five-year jewellery industry. Zale owns several brands, including Peoples Jewellers.
goal of $250,000. He also participates in several charitable initiatives, The corporation lends support to many national charities including the
including Christmas Angel ornament sales, with proceeds going to the Make a Wish foundation.“It’s not just the corporation writing a cheque,
local hospital. but it’s employee involvement,” Sternblitz says. “It’s getting into the
communities where we live and work, and supporting them.”
The local press responds favourably, however, Norton does not even try
to track the potential advantage to his business.“At the end of the day you This year, Zale’s largest campaign was the sale of a pink freshwater pearl
want to feel good about what you did, and what you could do,” he says. bracelet for the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation. Supporting a
charity to benefit women was important, Sternblitz adds, especially
Giving back to the community also motivates the recent decision of because jewellery is more connected to them. “We at Zale feel like it’s
the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) to champion juvenile our obligation to give back,” he says. “Especially jewellery, where it’s
diabetes. Ken Mulhall, CJA President and Chief Executive Officer, such an emotional gift, you want people to feel good about the jewellery
says CJA surveyed members about the idea of a national charity, they purchase. You want people to feel good about the organizations
and chose the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation (JDRF). that they purchase from. It’s all tied together.” [CJ]

074-077.CJ_DesignFeature.qxd:Layout 1 2/2/09 9:48 AM Page 74
The Hazards
of Writing
About
Why Amanda Brighton’s designs make
Jewellery
jewellery junkies greedy.
B Y B ARBARA K INGSTONE
eing a jewellery journalist can be hazardous, especially
B if you are a jewellery junkie. At the elegant Taj Bengal

Hotel in Kolkata, one of my first stops is always to
Khazana, the hotel’s own chic, in-house shop, where unique
rose cut diamonds dazzle from their often enameled settings.
In India, it is difficult not to notice that the affluent women

love their gems and wear them with dashing pride. It is a bit
of show and tell of one’s status and it is their tradition. Sitting
outdoors sipping tea on the terrace overlooking the
Himalayas at the century old heritage Windamere Hotel in
Darjeeling, India, I could not help but notice two
sophisticated-looking and stylish women wearing a few
wonderful pieces of jewellery.
Not long afterwards, as with many isolated hotels where

guests eventually get to chatting about their lives and where
they are from, I asked about their jewellery, sensing that the
use of gold and styling might very well be by the same
designer. In fact, they were designed by a London-based,
forty-ish year-old woman named Amanda Brighton. Since
one of the women also happened to be related to Brighton, a Emerald, orange sapphire and pink sapphire ring in 18K gold.
call was made and, soon enough, I was interviewing the
designer herself.

designerprofile
Dolce Vita earrings set with acquamarine cabochons and blue zircon in 18K gold.
Brighton was born and raised in Bangkok, Thailand, but spent two or three
months a year at Windamere Hotel, which was owned by her uncle. The child
of a Tibetan mother and English father, Brighton, a former financier in
London, decided a few years ago to leave the money markets and do what she
had always felt was her destiny — design jewellery. She took her GIA course in
2001, graduated in 2002 and started her own business in 2005. “I come from a
family of jewellery enthusiasts,” Brighton says, fingering one of her stunning
new ring designs in a matte gold finish. “I was also a mad consumer.”
It was a gutsy move, but in London she slowly developed a word-of-mouth

following. Now, as a well-known designer with a posh, private clientele
stretching to Europe and Asia, Brighton is often invited to take part in various
important jewellery shows. She was featured as last year’s “Up and Coming
Designer, New Heroes of the Jewellery Industry” at Coutts London Jewellery
Week. She was also a presence at the show at the Tower of London.
A dedicated woman who prioritizes and is totally focused on whatever she

pursues, Brighton enrolled in several jewellery courses, learning about precious
and semi precious stones only after her first successful, but small, collection.
“I felt I needed to be able to talk the jargon with complete knowledge.” She also
wanted to know firsthand about stones and whether they had been treated or
were natural, recognizing stones by their gemological properties.
“It was absolutely fascinating,” says Brighton about her year learning the trade.
She emphasizes that she is not a goldsmith and leaves that entirely to the
experts in Bangkok. “I have a strange way of making my designs. I play with
ideas in my head and imagine them from every aspect. Then I put it on paper.
Sometimes I’m inspired by the stones but often, when I see something
beautiful, I imagine something beautiful and I begin to think how it would look Dolce Vita bracelet blue chalceodony,
pink sapphire and onyx in 18K gold.
as a ring or earrings.”

“I’ve always been fussy and I just

apply that to my work. Anything
that I have made has to be up
to my standard.
”
Princess of the Woods necklace in chrysoprase,

amethyst and tanzanite in 18K gold.
I sit fingering some of the most original rings I have seen in a long After admiring her work, we discuss the orange sapphires available in
while. Shimmer, one of her new collections, seems to be the mother Thailand. “They’re really quite common but had a bit of bad press,” she
lode for mother of pearl-based rings with detailing that includes pink says with conviction. “It was one of the first coloured stones on which
sapphires, aquamarine and diamonds. they used diffusion treatment to alter the colour but the initial
problems were with disclosure. As a result, that market collapsed. It has
With her incredible connections in Bangkok and fluency in the since recovered and disclosure is now widely practiced. In that colour
language, Brighton draws sketches, which are then made in Thailand, range, the pink orange sapphires from Sri Lanka are exquisite and are
the Mecca for coloured stones, coloured stone cutting and polishing. “I my favourites, which I try to integrate in many of my designs.”
tend to go for six weeks at a time and usually do the bulk of my work
then. However, I never show any sign of annoyance if it isn’t right. It may seem like light years away from her first small collection and the
They would just lose face,” says Brighton, fully aware of the cultural careful, limited production, but Brighton’s Lace and Shimmer
differences that exist in that part of the world. “I always try to be in collections are prime examples of her expanded design skills. In Lace,
Bangkok to oversee the execution of my designs. If I don’t go, it has to for example, micro-sapphire and amethyst are worked over
be a design that I’m confident that could be done without my chrysocolla and sugilite oval cabochons in dramatic sweeping shapes.
being there. ” The pieces often feature curved pavé work with use of colour
combinations and intricate design, and both collections come in very
She sometimes has told the craftspeople that this or that is not what different price ranges.
she had envisioned. “There have been times when we’ve had to start all
over again but I actually think it’s part of any process. It’s fine tuning Brighton is the perfect showcase for her own jewellery and one of the
like any product.” She admits she has a critical eye for detail, which at first pieces I saw when we met were the plate-round pink pavé sapphire
times flusters the goldsmiths. “I’ve always been fussy and I just apply earrings with drops of pearls that dangled at the top, followed by
that to my work. Anything that I have made has to be up to my another from the middle and then one at the end. They were the
standard,” says the self-proclaimed perfectionist. “The pavé work is all perfect colouring for this exotic looking woman and the design was the
done by hand and is perfection.” perfect merging of Western and Eastern cultures.
Her other collection, Lace, has stunning unique pieces, especially her When I ask about what inspires her, Brighton’s answer is unusual. “I’m
detachable earrings, some combined with pink sapphires and onyx, a huge daydreamer and always have been,” she states with her very
others with emeralds and black diamonds, and then there are the upper-crust English accent. “I think about royalty but my designs are
dramatic amethysts and diamond pair. All the work is smooth and really a blend of everything I’ve been exposed to. I’ve been lucky since
perfectly finished. I have lived in and visited the most beautiful places and cultures.”

designerprofile
She admits that her jewellery is ‘very romantic’ but I suspect she
will be bolder in the near future. As for the size of stones she
prefers, she states, “I go through phases. Recently, I’ve been using a
lot of small pavé work, now I’m going to bigger stones.” As for her
own favourite stone? Pink sapphire, which can be seen often
throughout her new collections. However, heat-treated small pink
sapphires, she admits, are easily found and she does integrate them
in some of her work. “However, larger size pink sapphires are now
very expensive and have become harder to find. But I have such
good contacts in Thailand that I usually get what I want.”
Up until now, Brighton has sold privately, but recently there have
been a great deal of inquiries from important exclusive retailers
from Hong Kong and the U.S. “I haven’t reacted to any yet but I am
thinking a lot about Hong Kong,” she admits. As for the future?
“More of the same but larger. I’m excited about my work and the
entire industry all the time. It’s so different day to day.” [CJ] Dream ring in amethyst, pink sapphire and
diamond in 18K gold.
Princess of the Woods rose quartz, orange sapphire and baby pearl ring in 18K gold.

084-087.CJ_GIAFeture.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 9:51 AM Page 78
How Responsible Are We?

A look at where the industry has been and where it is headed on the road to accountability.
Article compiled by Emily Stegman with assistance from the staff of the GIA Richard T. Liddicoat
Gemological Library and Information Center
An illustration from John Mawe’s book shows erosion caused by mining practices. A sketch of the King’s Light Infantry camp in Mogok, Burma.
T
he gem and jewellery industry truly is a multifaceted field — a supply chain that involves and supports individuals from around the
world and all walks of life. As supply and demand, discoveries and production methods have evolved over time, we have learned
(perhaps the hard way) that change is essential for survival.
The need for change has gained momentum in recent years as we strive to meet the social, environmental and ethical standards our customers
and constituents are requesting. Progress has been made, but there’s still more to be done and the road to success may be long and costly. We
must be dedicated to this effort and prove we are in it for the long haul.
1812 1885
John Mawe, a British mineralogist, publishes his book Travels in the California prohibits hydraulic mining, which utilized water cannons to
Interior of Brazil, which illustrates the use of slaves to mine diamonds, wash the slopes of rivers to recover gold ore during the California Gold
gold and topaz in its text and drawings. The book’s images also Rush. A single water cannon with an eight-inch nozzle would force
show significant environmental damage, such as rivers that were 16,000 gallons of water a minute and move 4,000 cubic yards of earth
diverted by aqueducts so the slaves could find gems in the in one day. Nearby hillsides and farmlands were greatly damaged by
alluvial beds. the runoff; the effects of mercury, cyanide, arsenic and acids that
contaminated the soil and water as a result of the runoff were
1885 recognized later on.
King Leopold II of Belgium (1835-1909) gains a vast area in central
Africa, the Congo Free State, as his personal possession. He sets up a 1885
system of forced labour to recover ivory and rubber in the region and The British annex Upper Burma, an action that converts Burma into
orders his soldiers to chop off arms and hands of workers and children. a province of India, following the third Anglo-Burmese War.
As a result, the first human rights movement of the 20th century led by The commerce of gemstones from Mogok, Burma, was
the Congo Reform Association causes the king to turn over his colony to re-established with the West soon after. The image above shows small-
Belgium; shortly after, diamonds were discovered in the area that scale Burmese miners toiling and carrying baskets of gem-bearing
became the Belgian Congo in 1908. material while British soldiers look on and supervise.

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feature
1896 1919
Kokichi Mikimoto obtains a patent for his pearl culturing process, Edward Bullard, the son of E.D. Bullard, a mining equipment
which he first used to produce blister pearls. By 1919, he was specialist who created leather hats for industrial safety, patents a
beginning to market whole round cultured pearls worldwide. The “Hard Boiled” hat, followed by a shipyard protective cap that
development and public acceptance of cultured pearls around the introduced the early use of protective hard hats in mining.
turn of the 20th century became necessary as natural pearl-bearing
mollusk species neared extinction, mostly due to over fishing. 1934
The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) discusses some 20 active cases
1910 at its November meeting. The Mexican Gem Importing Co. selling
The United States Bureau of Mines is established to focus on worker imitation diamonds as real diamonds and a Rhode Island firm falsely
safety, accident prevention and improved working conditions in coal, stamping bracelets as “sterling” are among the cases decided upon. The
diamond and coloured stone mines. It became necessary to improve JVC also begins its collaboration with the Federal Trade Commission to
air quality in order to mine deeper into the earth, so engineers develop standards for marking gold, silver and platinum.
developed a technique to force air into and out of the pits where the
miners worked. In 2002, 42 miners died in a tanzanite mine in 1957
Tanzania after an oxygen pump stopped working. The Federal Trade Commission publishes Guides for the Jewelry,
Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries, which aims to protect the
industry and public from “unfair methods of competition, unfair
deceptive acts or practices and other trade abuses.” The word “gold,”
for instance, can only be used with items made entirely of 24K gold,
and individuals at all levels of the trade are required to disclose
treatments, synthetics and imitations to customers. The guide is
revised in 1996 and 2001.
In a tanzanite mining area in Merelani, Tanzania, a miner stands in a shaft next

to an air ventilation hose.
Kokichi Mikimoto.
This photograph from George F. Kunz’s Ivory and Elephant was taken in Zanzibar, a stop
for the African ivory trade before the tusks were exported worldwide.
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1996
Pik Botha, South Africa’s Minister for Mineral and Energy Affairs,
estimates that every ton of gold mined in his country results in one
death and 12 serious injuries. Rock falls, tunnel collapses, fires,
heat exhaustion and more — not to mention long-term effects
such as respiratory illnesses — contribute to making mining one
of the most dangerous professions. The International Labour
Organization held the Safety and Health in Mines Convention a
year earlier to outline ways mining operations could eliminate or
minimize safety and health risks. Only 23 countries are reported to
have ratified the Convention’s guidelines.
2000
A dam used to hold the mine tailings from the Aurul S.A. Baia
Mare Company’s gold mining operations in Romania fails due to
heavy rain and melting snow, causing cyanide-rich tailings waste
to be released into the Somes, Tisza and Danube Rivers before
reaching the Black Sea. As a result of this and other cyanide
incidents at gold mining facilities, the “International Cyanide
Management Code for the Manufacture, Transport and Use of
Artisanal miners in the Mavuco area of Mozambique work with picks and Cyanide in the Production of Gold,” began to be developed.
shovels to recover copper-bearing tourmaline. Photo by Brendan Laurs.
Image © GIA.
2000
The World Diamond Congress, an annual meeting between the
World Federation of Diamond Bourses and the International
1989 Diamond Manufacturers Association, is held in Antwerp. The
The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of group establishes the World Diamond Council to bring
Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) moves the African elephant from representatives from the diamond and banking industries together
Appendix II, a classification that allows controlled international to develop a tracking system for the import and export of
trade of the animal under a permit system, to Appendix I, which diamonds. The goal is to prevent the exploitation of diamonds to
prevents all international trade. Widespread poaching — to fund violent and illegal acts.
extract ivory for use in jewellery, vases, statues, etc. — played a
large hand in the African elephants’ endangerment. This trade ban 2003
caused the price of ivory to drop, and populations of African The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, created by the World
elephants began to recover in some countries. Diamond Council, becomes a national law in participating
countries. This system works to prevent diamonds used to fund
1992 conflict (also known as “blood diamonds” or “conflict diamonds”)
The Mines and Mineral Act of 1992 is established in Sri Lanka to from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain. It applies to
prohibit anyone under 18 from participating in gemstone mining. diamonds when they cross an international border and requires
Amnesty International recognizes that child labour is an ongoing, the stones to be sealed in tamper-resistant containers and
multifaceted issue in any industry: “Some argue that prohibiting accompanied by forgery resistant, conflict-free certificates with
child labour completely would increase the economic deprivation unique serial numbers.
of extremely poor families who often depend on money brought
in by children for their basic needs. Others say that removing
children from some industries will only force them onto the streets
or into more dangerous and exploitative forms of work.”
1992
The Pearl Producers Association, a trade association made up of
Australian South Sea cultured pearl farmers, and the Department
of Fisheries in Western Australia extend their sustainable yield
policy to hatchery-produced oysters. This quota
system was originally established to monitor
how many wild oyster farmers could collect
without diminishing the oyster population’s
ability to sustain itself, thus ensuring a
long-term supply of oysters.

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feature
2003 living conditions, better healthcare, potable and safe drinking water,
Rio Tinto develops its global HIV/AIDS strategy, which includes more roads to connect our remote communities, and much more.”
affordable treatment and programs for employees and their partners, Diamonds, discovered in Botswana in 1967 play a huge role in the
including voluntary counselling and testing. The program is based on nation’s fast-growing economy and helped establish more than 300
the ILO Code of Good Practice on HIV/AIDS and promotes schools. DTC Botswana is founded in May to plan the growth of
non-discrimination and confidentiality for all employees facing Botswana’s diamond industry economy.
the disease.
2007
2003 Jewelers for Children (JFC), an organization founded and supported
The first “green gold” jewellery line is produced. The Certified Green by the U.S. jewellery industry, contributes funding to a community
Gold Program aims to produce metals in an environmentally and centre that cares for children in the Isibindi project who are orphaned
socially sound way in 12 Afro-Colombian communities. The or made vulnerable by HIV and AIDS. Since its inception in 1999, JFC
certification criteria, which is endorsed by the Association for has donated more than $30 million to programs benefiting children
Responsible Mining, includes not using toxic chemicals in the affected by illness, abuse or neglect.
extraction process, monitoring the silt load into streams, rivers and
lakes, and marking the origin of the gold or platinum in favour of the 2007
respective municipality (for royalty purposes). The Rapaport International Diamond Conference is held in February
in New York. Government officials, industry members and NGOs
2004 (non-government organizations) gather to discuss ways to start
The Chair of the Kimberley Process announces that less than 1% of developing solutions to the problems African diggers face. The
diamonds traded internationally are conflict diamonds, a significant Rapaport Group is a dedicated supporter of the fair trade movement
improvement from the 4% prior to the establishment of the and is committed to establishing Fair Trade and Fair Made diamond,
Kimberley Process. gem and jewellery products and markets. The Company regularly
donates at least 10% of its profits to charity and initiates programs to
2005 help alleviate poverty in Africa and elsewhere.
The Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) is formally launched to
address the political, social and economic challenges facing the 2007
artisanal diamond mining sector. DDI’s first study, “Dealing for The Madison Dialogue Ethical Jewelry Summit is held in Washington,
Development: The Dynamics of Diamond Marketing and Pricing in D.C., in October. Small-scale miners, NGOs, companies representing
Sierra Leone,” aims to ensure diamond diggers, miners and third party verification, jeweller organizations and major jewellers
communities benefit more from the millions of dollars worth of discuss environmental and societal effects of mining raw materials in
diamonds they help produce. source countries. The summit participants’ final declaration: “We
believe there is an opportunity to make a difference in the lives and
2006 communities of artisanal/small-scale miners and other marginalized
The International Council on Mining and Metals publishes Good workers worldwide, by developing and implementing robust
Practice Guidance for Mining and Biodiversity to help mine employees standards for the production of ethical and fair trade metals,
manage and conserve biodiversity. It examines how processes like ore diamonds, gems and jewellery. We also encourage governments,
extraction can negatively impact the environment and ways where needed, to develop policies and regulations that protect these
companies can create goals for re-establishing biodiversity prior to miners, workers and their communities.”
mine closures.
2008
2006 Simmons Jewelry Co. donates more than $300,000 to the Diamond
The movie Blood Diamond is released. Set during the civil war in Empowerment Fund (DEF), a non-profit international organization
Sierra Leone in 1999, the film follows an ex-mercenary turned established to raise money for people and communities in diamond-
smuggler and a Mende fisherman as they search for a rare pink producing regions of Africa. The donation was made possible through
diamond and strive to rescue the fisherman’s son from rebel forces. the sale of the Company’s Green Bracelet. Russell Simmons, best
The De Beers Diamond Trading Company advises retailers to prepare known as the founder of Def Jam Records, created DEF after a trip to
for consumer reactions to the film by ensuring they buy from southern Africa in 2006, where he saw how integral the diamond
Kimberley Process-compliant suppliers, posting a statement about industry is to creating sustainable economic development there.
this requirement in their store and educating staff members about the
issues. The World Diamond Council created diamondfacts.org in 2008
response to the movie, with accurate information about conflict The Tom Lantos Block Burmese JADE (Junta’s Anti-Democratic Effort)
diamonds, the Kimberley Process and the role diamonds play in Act is enacted on July 29. The ban blocks Burmese jadeite and ruby
African economies. from entering the U.S. through third party countries, such as
Thailand, China, Malaysia, Taiwan and Singapore, in an effort to
2006 withhold a main source of revenue from the ruling government (or
Festus Mogae, President of the Republic of Botswana, says, “For our junta) that has caused the displacement and exploitation of countless
people, every diamond purchase represents food on the table, better Burmese citizens. [CJ]

Cost and Effect

Prices for precious metals are affected by numerous factors,
and the jewellery industry happens to be near the top of this list.
BY BRYAN SOROKA
recious metals. To consumers, they represent beauty and status. Whatever the shift, the demand for gold in early 2009 is expected to be
P To designers, they signify artistic possibilities. Retailers,

meanwhile, tend to form a considerably more pragmatic
attitude, and some emerging factors will be of particular interest to this
spotty, with a weaker claim in the West and steadier consumption in
the Far East and Middle East. In India and other developing nations, a
steadier demand could assert itself, though this hinges on the price of
mindset.With all that transpired in 2008, the jewellery industry is as gold as opposed to economic climes.
perplexed as any other regarding what 2009 will hold. When it comes
to precious metals, though, the picture is not quite so muddy, as certain What is interesting to note about gold is that it does not react to merely
issues have come into play to allow for an educated forecast. traditional supply and demand such as other commodities. The price
of gold is impacted for different reasons in different regions. Going
Gold back to Middle Eastern and Asian nations, jewellery is commonly
Andy Montano, Director of Marketing for ScotiaMocatta, a leading purchased as an investment, whereas this is not so much the case in the
metals trading, brokerage and finance institution, says that the jewellery West. Also, events including the Chinese New Year could spike sales,
sector remains the largest physical off-take market for gold. “Generally and seasonal demand in April and May, when many weddings
speaking, mine production and jewellery demand are about equal every take place in India, could have a great effect on demand and
year,” he adds. subsequent prices.
When it comes to primary factors that affect precious metal prices, Platinum
Mr. Montano says, “The drivers on the price remain investor activity. The price for platinum during the early stages of 2008 was $1,538/oz.
Whether net buyers or net sellers or central bank activity … who have This number skyrocketed to $2,300/oz in March, and then saw an
been net sellers in recent years,” Mr. Montano goes on to say that of equally startling drop in mid-July, with prices as low as $744/oz.
particular note is the fact that “in recent years, the biggest change is Several factors are influencing the price of platinum for the New Year.
investor interest. It’s gone from net sellers to net buyers and that’s been These include the outlook for a balanced market and enthusiastic
reflected in the price [of precious metals].” investor interest.

preciousmetalsfeature
Jewellery Industry Impact highs, compared to platinum’s 63% drop. Interestingly, palladium’s
One of the key factors that determine platinum’s price is the jewellery outlook is now stronger than platinum’s and, both structurally and
industry. And much like the financial markets during the past year, this price-wise, it is set to gain market share from platinum. It is really quite
impact has fluctuated. In 2007, for instance, the industry demand surprising that prices have performed the way they have, especially
decreased by 3.3%, which represented a total of 1.58Moz of platinum. considering that Russia may choose to reduce sales from inventory
Compare this with the 2.88Moz, which represented peak demand for with prices this low.
platinum in 1999.
Jewellery Industry Impact
Today, jewellery accounts for 22% of platinum demand, as compared Although palladium jewellery has seen rapid growth in recent years,
to 51% in 1999. Inflated prices in the first part of 2008 also saw elevated consuming an estimated 1.10Moz this year, up from 240,000oz in 2001,
levels of jewellery being cashed in, especially in Japan. However, some 60% of the off take has been from China. Also noteworthy is that
following the 63% drop in prices from the highs and with prices now consumer demand for palladium jewellery has, in large part, been
the lowest since 2005, there is likely to be considerable built-up interest fuelled by aggressive marketing campaigns, touting it as an alternative
from the jewellery industry. It might take some time for consumers to to platinum. Thus, as platinum prices fall to levels that offer jewellery
reinvest their money in expensive items such as jewellery, however, it is manufacturers a reasonable margin again, it will be interesting to
likely that demand will return given these price levels, and some see whether demand for palladium jewellery slows markedly. All in
restocking is likely to start being seen. This will be even more probable all, with price differentials between the precious metals that
if China and Japan experience a brief or mild economic slowdown as much more narrow now, it would not be surprising to see palladium
both countries previously had the strongest appetite for platinum jewellery demand suffer relatively more than the other metals.
jewellery. This is why some expect jewellery demand to recover after an
initial delay, of which there is some evidence at the moment. What to Expect…
Given palladium’s fledgling jewellery market, the outlook for the
What to Expect… precious metal in the long term remains quite positive. Above and
The sudden drop in the price of platinum could very well trigger beyond that, the mine supply/demand balance is one of supply deficit
heightened interest and subsequent demand from the jewellery with the market currently being balanced by sales of Russian inventory.
industry. The good news here is that this drop leaves a lot of space and Eventually, these surpluses will most likely be depleted — the
possibilities for a turnaround since prices have decreased to levels the sales rate has already slowed, and at these low prices they may
industry has not seen for five years. even be suspended. Overall, prices could lift off these lows in early
2009, and move up to a higher trading range when prices
Palladium again increase.
Much like platinum, palladium prices enjoyed a significant spike
during the earlier stages of 2008. Actually, this increase outperformed Conclusion
platinum even though the latter was more affected by South Africa’s It is evident that the jewellery market plays a significant role in the
supply disruption. However, as platinum prices rebounded, palladium demand for various types of precious metals, which of course, impacts
was winning increasing market share from platinum. The result was their respective prices. As 2009 continues to unfold, it will be a
that prices increased from $366/oz at the conclusion of 2007 to a high combination of investor interest and consumer demand that continues
of $592/oz in March, up 61%, compared to platinum’s 50% gain. to shape the precious metal market. [CJ]
However, palladium has since dropped 72% from the aforementioned Reference: “Metal Matters,” ScotiaMocatta, January 2009.
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All That Glitters at the

Golden Globes
The jewellery trends just kept coming down the red carpet
at the first major awards show of 2009.
BY BONNIE SIEGLER
lthough the Golden Globes are
A awarded for accomplishments in

the film and television industry,
at this year’s diamond- and platinum-filled
ceremony those of us in the jewellery business
found just as much cause for celebration.
Angelina Jolie ruled the red carpet with some

dazzling accessories, and we’re not referring to
Brad Pitt. For the awards ceremony, red carpet
and after parties, Jolie chose Neil Lane
platinum and 5-carat diamond drop earrings
($180,000) and a matching platinum and
5-carat diamond ring ($188,000).
Megan Fox’s emerald and

yellow gold earrings.
Angelina Jolie’s 5-carat

diamond drop earrings.
Megan Fox
Transformers star Megan Fox wore all

Angelina Jolie’s 5-carat diamond ring. Amrapali at the event, rocking yellow gold
bangles with diamonds, emerald beaded
bangles and stunning emerald and yellow
Angelina Jolie gold earrings.

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starwatch
Kristen Bell partied in style at the InStyle

after-party wearing a Siera rose cut diamond
necklace set in black rhodium gold. It could
have set her back $41,420, but it was just on
loan for the young star of last year’s hit flick
Forgetting Sarah Marshall.
Sandra Bullock’s
Amrapali earrings.
Sandra Bullock
Sandra Bullock made a definite statement

looking ethereal in her blush-toned gown,
Kristen Bell’s Siera rose cut though she really amped up the volume
diamond necklace.
with her jewellery choices. Proving she
still has an edgy side to her “good girl”
persona, Bullock wore a Bochic yellow gold
Kristen Bell
turquoise and tourmaline snake cuff
($20,000) with dazzling Amrapali yellow
Jaime Pressly left her Southern bumpkin gold and turquoise dangling earrings
My Name Is Earl persona behind, transforming valued at $8,000.
into Hollywood royalty in a platinum
paisley hinged-cuff bracelet with
diamonds (3.23 carats) worth
$25,030, and a platinum ornate
hinged cuff with diamonds (3.94
carats) priced at $24,335. Both
were designed by Neil Lane.
Evan Rachel Wood’s platinum paisley

hinged-cuff bracelet with diamonds.
Evan Rachel Wood was a vision of elegance

in support of her The Wrestler co-star and
Golden Globe winner, Mickey Rourke.
Wood chose a Neil Lane platinum and
diamond ball bracelet ($27,000) and
Jaime Pressly Jaime Pressly’s platinum paisley
platinum leaf earrings ($39,000). [CJ] Evan Rachel Wood
hinged-cuff bracelet with diamonds.

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Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial

Board Welcomes Judy Richards
udy Richards, President and Owner of Davidson’s Jewellers in Some of Ms. Richards’ other notable accomplishments include acting as
J Ottawa, Ontario, brings a wealth of experience and expertise to

Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board. She has earned a graduate
jewellers degree from the Canadian Jewellers Association, as well as a
past President of the Canadian Jewellers Association, the Better Business
Bureau of Ottawa/Hull, and the Women’s Business Network Association of
Ottawa. She has also served as a Director of the Canadian Council of
certificate in jewellery design, and finally, she has completed GIA Better Business Bureaus and the Canadian Automobile Association.
diamond and coloured stone courses.
Ms. Richards is also very active in her community and is a founding
During her 35+ years in the industry, Ms. Richards has been recognized member of the Capital Daycare Parents Co-Op, the Women’s Business
with numerous awards and honours. She was one of 20 Canadians invited Network and the Glebe Business Group.
to join the DeBeers Carat Club, and has recently been invited to join the
American Gem Society, which is an impressive achievement considering a It is with great honour that Canadian Jeweller welcomes Ms. Richards
mere 5% of jewellers in North America have earned such a membership. to our esteemed Editorial Board.

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editorialboard
Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board

As the Canadian jewellery industry continues to evolve with customer demands and market trends, it is our responsibility to
communicate these events, as well as arm you with the knowledge needed to meet these challenges.
With this in mind, Canadian Jeweller is pleased to introduce our Editorial Board. Members include some of this country’s most
influential and respected jewellery retailers who have proven to be valuable partners and leaders in our continued efforts to help
our industry thrive in all economic climes.
Mark Lash Myles Mindham Brent Trepel

Mark Lash’s passion for design developed at Beginning his career as a bespoke jeweller, President and CEO of Ben Moss Jewellers,
an early age when he started creating his own Myles Mindham opened his first retail store, Brent Trepel leads the charge for Canada’s
jewellery in high school. Since then, the Mindham Jewellery Ltd., in 1990. Now largest third generation retail jeweller. Mr.
designer/retailer has opened two highly known as Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc., the Trepel joined the business in 1984, and has
successful Toronto-based stores, which Canadian Jeweller Excellence in Design and seen its retail presence swell from 18 to 58
showcase his many custom-made pieces. Mr. Diamonds Today Award Winner has become stores in just two decades. This phenomenal
Lash has earned the moniker of “Canada’s one of the most sought-after creators of rate of success has not gone unnoticed,
jeweller to the stars,” as numerous NBA, custom-made luxury jewellery. Mr. as Ben Moss has been honoured with
NHL and other star athletes, along with Mindham’s unique sensibilities are evident the Retail Council of Canada’s Retail
renowned musicians and actors, can be seen not only in his creations, but also in his Innovation award, Canadian Jeweller’s
wearing his extraordinary pieces. Mr. Lash store’s design and the multitude of value- Jewellery Chain of the Year, and inclusion
has also appeared on ET Canada, Breakfast added services that have made him one of in the Financial Post’s 50 best managed
TV and Canada AM, just to name a few. Canada’s most successful retailers. companies in Canada ranking.
To find out more about Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board,

please contact Bryan Soroka, Director, Editorial & Communications, at bryan@rivegauchemedia.com.

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what’son
upcoming events
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.
If you would like dates added, please contact bryan@rivegauchemedia.com.
FEBRUARY | CANADA INHORGENTA EUROPE MARCH | USA MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL

ALBERTA GIFT SHOW FEBRUARY 20-23 MJSA EXPO NEW YORK JEWELLERY & GEMS FAIR 2009
FEBRUARY 15-18 New Munich Trade Fair Centre MARCH 8-10 MARCH 13-16
Putra World Trade Centre
Northlands (Agricom, Rexall Place) Munich, Germany Jacob Javits Convention Center
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Edmonton, Alberta Tel: (+49 89) 949 113 98 New York, New York Tel: 603 9058-8772
Tel: 1-888-823-7469 Email: info@inhorgenta.de Tel: 1-800-444-6572 Web: www.elite.com/my
Web: www.albertagiftshow.com Web: www.inhorgenta.com Email: bruce.coltin@mjsa.org
Web: www.mjsatradeshows.org ISTANBUL JEWELLERY SHOW
FEBRUARY | USA BANGKOK GEMS MARCH 18-22
AGTA GEMFAIR AND JEWELRY FAIR BOSTON GIFT SHOW Istanbul Expo Centre
FEBRUARY 4-9 FEBRUARY 25-MARCH 1 MARCH 28-31 Istanbul, Turkey
Tucson Convention Center Venue to be announced Boston Convention Tel: +90 212 519 07 19
Tucson, Arizona Tel: (662) 630 1390 and Exhibition Center Email: info@rotaforte.com
Tel: (214) 742-4367 Email: info@bangkokgemsfair.com Boston, Massachusetts Web: www.rotaforte.com
Web: www.agta.org Web: www.bangkokgemsfair.com Tel: 1-800-318-2238
Web: www.bostongiftshow.com BASELWORLD - THE WATCH
NEW ORLEANS GIFT CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, AND JEWELLERY SHOW
AND JEWELRY SHOW JEWELLERY AND GEM FAIR MARCH | MARCH 26-APRIL 2
FEBRUARY 14-17 FEBRUARY 26-MARCH 1 INTERNATIONAL MCH Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.
Ernest N. Morial Convention Center Shenzhen Convention ASIA’S FASHION, JEWELLERY & Basel, Switzerland
New Orleans, Louisiana and Exhibition Center ACCESSORIES FAIR Tel: +41 58 206 25 25
Email: visitor@baselworld.com
Tel: (630) 241-9865 Tel: (852) 2516 1677 / 2516 1636 MARCH 4-7
Web: www.baselworld.com
Web: www.gift2jewelry.com Email: salescjw@cmpasia.com Asia World Expo
Web: exhibitions.jewellery Hong Kong, China
FEBRUARY | netasia.com Tel: +852 2516-2115/2158 APRIL | USA
INTERNATIONAL Email: visiting@AsiaFJA.com MID-SOUTH JEWELRY &
SPRING FAIR BIRMINGHAM MACAU INTERNATIONAL Web: www.exhibitions.jewellery ACCESSORIES FAIR
FEBRUARY 1-5 JEWELRY AND WATCH FAIR netasia.com APRIL 25-27
NEC Birmingham FEBRUARY 28-MARCH 3 Memphis-Cook
Birmingham, United Kingdom The Venetian Macao Resort Hotel HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL Convention Center
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7728 3949 Macau, China JEWELLERY SHOW Memphis, Tennessee
Tel: (630) 241-9865
Email: sales@springfair.com Tel: 852-3428-2626 MARCH 4-8
Fax: (630) 241-9870
Web: www.springfair.com Email: info@macaujewelryfair.com Hong Kong Convention
Web: www.gift2jewelry.com
Web: www.macaujewelryfair.com and Exhibition Centre
AMBIENTE Hong Kong, China
FEBRUARY 13-17 MARCH | CANADA Tel: (852) 1830-668 APRIL | INTERNATIONAL
Messe Frankfurt Trade Fair Centre VANCOUVER GIFT SHOW Email: exhibitions@tdc.org.hk MIDEAST WATCH &
Frankfurt, Germany MARCH 1-3 Web: www.hkjewellery.hktdc.com JEWELLERY SHOW
Email: info@canada.messefrank BC Place APRIL 7-11
furt.com Vancouver, British Columbia AMBERIF Expo Centre Sharjah
Web: ambiente.messefrankfurt.com Tel: 1-888-823-7469 MARCH 11-14 Sharjah, UAE
Email: brendaharrison@dmgworld Exhibition Centre (MTG SA) Tel: +971-6-5770000
IIJS SIGNATURE 2009 media.com Gdansk, Poland Email: info@expo-centre.ae
FEBRUARY 20-23 Web: www.vancouvergiftshow.com Tel: +48 (0) 58 55 49 134, Web: www.mideastjewellery.com
Kala Academy Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl
Goa, India MONTREAL GIFT SHOW Web: www.mtgsa.pl
Tel: 91-22-26524791 MARCH 8-11
Email: signature@gjepcindia.com Place Bonaventure
Web: www.iijs-signature.org Montreal, Quebec
Tel: 1-888-823-SHOW
Web: www.montrealgiftshow.com

089.CJ. Open BlueDec2 .qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:53 AM Page 44

090-95.CJ.MrkShowDEC23.qxd:MarketplaceNov 1/30/09 12:12 PM Page 90
showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
JEWELLERY POS SYSTEM THAT DELIVERS!

s #OMMISSIONS 3PECIAL /RDERS 2EPAIRS ,AYAWAYS
s #USTOMER ,OYALTY 0ROGRAMS 'IFT #ARDS
s )NTEGRATED #REDIT AND $EBIT 0ROCESSING

7ITH THIS AD ,IMITED TIME OFFER
s ,INKS TO 1UICK"OOKS OR 3IMPLY !CCOUNTING
Complete Jewellery POS System:

POS Computer, 17” LCD Monitor, POS Printer,
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ELS
FOR LAB
TEST5678
Label Printer and Software
designed for jewellery labels
$1,275* 1234
90123345
$1,275.0
T2T1 LAC
K
0
1000
www.aceretail.com 1-888-810-9395

showcase
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
pure beauty G
PS
has a name... .P
SF
UIB
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GS
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Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
"MM
EFTJ
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WBJMBCM
FBT
DBTU
JOH

Vancouver, B.C.

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PS
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1-800-663-1458

XJUI
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BOEHFNTUPOF

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BMPHVFT
B W
BJM
BCMF
GPS
Online inventory

CFTU
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PG
CSJEBMT
BOES
JOHNPVOU
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www.jwdiamonds.ca
All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

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Somal
omal W
Watches
atches
es Clocks Parts
rts & Tool
Tool Supply
pply
MIYOTA
MIYOTA ETA
ETTAA RONDA
RONDA BERGEON
BERGEON SEE FE MAXELL PANASONIC
PAN
NASONIC SEIKO
SEIKO CITIZEN
ITIZEN
M 400+ calibres of watches
hes movements for Swiss & Japanese W Watches
atches
M 1000+ of Flat & Domeded Crystals.
M 100+ types of Crowns from Japan, Switzerland & Far East.
M 100+ types of Tool
Tool for W
Watchmakers
atchmakers & Jewellers.
M 100+ Movements Catalogalog showing over 300 Calibre
bre Pictures & Details.
M High quality watch bands.
nds. Metal/Leather/PVC. O
SIT U
M Jewellery Boxes.
R
MCD Pearl Imports

VI
nada.ccom
malca
w..ssoom
www
A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls W E IT
E
Somal International al (Canada) Inc. BS

and pearl jewellery.
30 Intermodal Dr
Dr.. Unitt #37, Brampton, ON L6TT 5K1
27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

TTel:
el: 905-790-2
905-790-2188
2188 FAX:
FAX: 905-595-0166
905-595-
5 0166
T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426 TToll Free: Tel:
oll Free: Tel: 1-888-SOMAL
8-SOMAL 99 FAX:
FAX: 1-877-SOMAL
1-877-SOMAL 77
77
Email info@mcdpearls.com www.somalcanada.com
www.somalcanada.com
canada.com

showcase marketplace
A D V E R T I S I N G A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are per-
magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail mitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3
lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. TIMES – $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES –
$450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is
available as a spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-
8186 ext. 6117 or lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
AB A.B. MACHINERY
PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30
LASERMAN-500 LASER WELDERS
High precision ND: Yag Welding system New & Used machinery and
equipment for jewellers
Developed in particular for goldsmiths and dental industry
Plastic
Injectors BUY - SELL - TRADE
for welding and repairs of both large and small workshops.
www.abmachinery.com
The design of this unit has taken into account the
necessary, precision, easiness of use, reduced New & Used
maintenance and long-lasting duration of the lamp
Tel: (514) 737-1660 Toll Free: (888) 901-8888

allow a high productive efficiency, so that work can
be carried out better and in full safety. The machine
Fax: (514) 737-9335 Email: alex@abmachinery.com
can be used by an operator with limited experience.
Characteristics:
s PROGRAMMABLE PARAMETERS
s LANGUAGE DISPLAY %.' &2! %30 )4! 0/2 452
s 0ROGRAMMABLE REFERENCE PULSE SHAPE WITH
CONTROLLED CURRENT 07- )MPROVEMENT OF LAMP LIFE • GOLD • PALADIUM
s (IGH QUALITY STEREOSCOPIC MICROSCOPE WITH 56 RAY • YELLOW • PLATINUM ALLOYCO
and laser radiation protection for the eyes which
can be connected into video camara • WHITE • SILVADIUM INTERNATIONAL INC
s 'RAPHIC DISPLAY WITH ALL WORKING PARAMETERS
s 3ELF DIAGNOSTIC AND SELF TESTING SYSTEM • PINK • STEEL
s $OUBLE LIGHTING NEON DIODE
s )NERT GAS !RGON NOZZLE TO PREVENT OXIDATION • GREEN • PRESET CASTING SINCE 1986
on weleding points
s !IR NOZZLE FOR COOLING PIECES IN THE WORKING CHAMBER • STERLING • MOLDS
s &AST SETTING AND CHANGE OF WORKING PARAMETERS THROUGH MOUSE
s 3POT DIAMETER MM TO MM WITH CONTINOUS POWER OUTPUT • BRONZE • ALLOYS
Functions: CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384
s 2EPAIR OF DAMAGED OR WORN SETTINGS WITHOUT REMOVING THE STONES
s 2EPAIR OF MOLTEN PIECES AND SURFACE DEFECTS Phone: 514-845-5384 alloyco@alloyco.com www.alloyco.com
s 2EPAIR OF HEAT SENSITIVE PIECES 55 Mont-Royal W., Suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H2T 2S6
s #ONNECTION OF DIFFERENT METALS
s 7ELDING OF SPECIAL CHAINS ASSEMBLY OF PARTICULAR COMPONENTS
s 7ELDING ALLOY FRAMES AND JOINTS OF DENTAL
3TOCK .UMBER
0OWER * +7 7 6 8 (: !-0 +7
OUTILLAGES ET MACHINERIES POUR BIJOUTERIE / COMPLETE LINE OF JEWELRY SUPPLIES

4 &2%% & % SASSOUNIAN BELLNETCA
BHALLA WATCH HOUSE 1971
777 3!33/5.)!.4//,3#/-
0(),,)03 315!2% -/.42³!, 1# (" ' Experienced watchmakers.
Fast, reliable service @ FAIR PRICES!
Trust our name for your complete watch repairs.
Spotless, modern workshop with the latest tools
& equipment for timing & cleaning.
Experience The Difference:
Revolution.
Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com
9 Gaspe Rd.L6S 0A4
Tel:905-463-0251 • Fax: 905-463-1383
Gordi Cell: 647-283-2002 • g_bhalla@hotmail.com
It’s all about you.

Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.
Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate
on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.
Get published.

marketplace
Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES
– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as a
spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
CNC
NC Gold Refining
g Inc
Dealers
D eaalers
l andd refiners
fi off P
Precious
i Metal
Metal
t l Scrap
S
While You Wait-Immediate Settlements
9999 Check
eck our State of the art Jewellery
ry Alloys
Check Our site for the up-to-date Buyy and Sale Prices
At: WWW.goldrefining.ca
Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before
fore You Re
Refine
fine
27 Queen Street, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6
Tel: 647-430-3643 Fax:647-430-3657 Toll Free:866-553-0130
ee:866-553-0130
E-mail:info@gold
E-mail:info@goldrefining.ca
refining.ca Web: www.gold
www.goldrefining.ca
drefining.ca
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
ASSAYING • REFINING •
• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES
• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE
IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE
LET US EARN YOUR TRUST
Web: www.xau.ca
Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111
21 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:
info@xau.ca
.999 GOLD DEPOT

PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN
IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM
AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY
Call our Hotline for Prices - 416-366-GOLD (4653)
Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 Fax: 416-366-3499
All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined
27 Queen St. East #901, Toronto ON

marketplace
LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds

• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes
• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805

Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883
email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com
H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd

Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a
deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers
We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.
A long standing tradition of service since 1929.
If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!
PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117
FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139
sales@perrin.on.ca
A leader in the Canadian Jewellery

Industry since 1914
1-800-263-1669
905 475-9566
Part of the Unicore Group www.imperialproducts.com
BEST QUALITY & BIGGEST SELECTION OF SILVER JEWELLERY GUARANTEED.

LIFE TIME WARRANTY, AND VERY LARGE LINE OF 10K JEWELLERY.
+ 14K BODY JEWELLERY, EARINGS, BANDS AND CHAINS.
WATCH FOR OUR NEW GOLD AND SILVER CATALOGS.
IF WE D O N’ T HA V E IT. Y OU D O N ’T WA N T IT.
SERVICE THAT YOU CAN TRUST. FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED
JOHN JR. ARABATLIAN PRESIDENT

CELL: 604-250-2158 TEL: 604-689-4190 FAX: 604-689-4139
TOLL-FREE: 1-8777-80-JOHNS TOLL-FREE FAX: 1-888-564-6788
ADDRESS: 900-736 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C. V6Z 1G3

marketplace
Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"
Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Refining - Assaying - Trading
Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap
Check for our refining specials and alloy products The Diamonds You Need.
At: www.refinegold.ca In Stock. Overnight.
and www.goldrefiner.ca
Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine
Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371
359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9 We carry finely cut diamonds ranging
Web:www.refinegold.ca www.goldrefiner.ca E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of
shapes including round brilliant,
IN JEWELLERY REPAIR princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart,
YOUR
YOUR
1
pear, marquise and oval.
NAME E N V E L O P E
Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.
DESIGN L O W E S T
DESIGN PRICES Selection, Service and Value
TO
T O YOUR
YO U R NO
N O IIN
N a family tradition since 1955
OW
O WN
WISHES
W ISHES D A www.wmolldiamonds.com
ALL Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738
PRINTING
P RINTING 1 - 800 661- 4410 21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
CNC Gold Refining Inc

STEPS F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9
NCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m
IINCLUDED
Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap
While You Wait-Immediate Settlements
9999 Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys
Check Our site for the up-to-date Buy and Sale Prices
classified
At: WWW.goldrefiner.ca A D V E R T I S I N G
Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Michele Aubie Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6119 or frontdesk@rivegauchemedia.com.
27 Queen Street, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6
Tel: 647-430-3643 Fax:647-430-3657 Toll Free:866-553-0130
POCKET WATCH AUCTION Successful, independent, destination
OWN YOUR OWN
E-mail:info@goldrefining.ca Web: www.goldrefiner.ca jewellery store, celebrating 75 years in
Estate of L. Mekkes - Portage, Manitoba
RECESSION RESISTANT business in 2008. Well-established clientele.
FOR SALE
FOR SALE
March 21, 2009 Includes 250 + Elgin,

Downtown location. Includes business,
FRANCHISE! Waltham, Balco, Burlington, Regina & MORE - building and inventory. Will transition assist.
LARGE AMOUNT OF Watch findings, Clock Visit our website at
World’s Largest Jewellery Works, Tools, 2 Jeweler's lathes. www.atkinsonsjewellers.com.
and Watch Repair Details @ www.meyersauctions.com Contact atkinsons@shaw.ca
Franchise is Looking to
Expand in a Mall Near You.
Make money for yourself and
take control of your future! USED TL30 HIGH-SECURITY, FIRE
RESISTANT SAFE FOR SALE.
FOR SALE
• High Traffic Locations Equipped with digital lock, 3.5" thick walls,
• Extremely High Gross Margins 6" thick door, and 1.5" diameter steel bolts.
72"h x 35"w x 30.75"d.
• Low Inventory Costs Very competitively priced. For inquiries
• 25 Year Proven Record call Tanya Abate @ 416-227-9110.
• Full Training, No Exp Nec.
WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY!

(800) 359-0407
www.fastfix.com

096.CJ_FaxBack.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 12:05 PM Page 96
PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
96 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

1. See 2. Use this quick 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
BY FAX product reference list number(s) 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
you want below to find out on the attached or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
OR MAIL info on its free info number free info card as you like
(it’s also on the ad)
write # write #
CONNECT WITH... page on card CONNECT WITH... page on card
Siffari 2 101 Reed Exhibits - JCK Las Vegas 20 117
Jewelers Mutual 4-5 102 Byrex Gems Inc. 21 118
Noble Gift Packaging 6-7 103 Sanghavi Diamonds Inc. 23 119
Atlantic Engraving Ltd. 8 104 Cardinal Crystal Boutique - Wenger 25 120
GS Labs 9 105 Rousseau Canada Inc. 28 121
Rare and Precious Gems 11 106 MCD Pearl Imports 28 122
Pandora 13 107 Mirko Engraving Ltd. 31 123
Atlantic Engraving Ltd. 15 108 Wenger - Swiss 33 124
Champagne Diamonds - Rare and Precious Gems 16 109 Bergeon & Company SA 35 125
Diarough Canada - MCP Canada 16 110 Mirage Creations - Nova Diamonds Inc. 45 126
Uni-Design Canada - Diarough Canada 16 111 The Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 68 127
Diarough Canada - MCP Canada 17 112 Canadian Rockies Design Awards 69 128
Bryrex Gems Inc. 18 113 OpenBlue Networks 89 129
Atlantic Rings - Atlantic Engraving Ltd. 18 114 Groupe Courchesne - Zinzi Silver Jewels 98 130
Mirage Wedding Bands - Mirage Creations 18 115 Rotary - Swiss Watch 99 131
Flanders Collection - Gee ’N Gee Importers 18 116 Mirage Creations 100 132
FREE
Info Card & Subscription
To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely
Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check circles:
Selling area of your store
under 1,000 sq. ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq. ft.
3,001 - 5,000 sq. ft. over 5,000 sq. ft.
Signature: Date: Which category best describes your
business classification?
Education
Your Name: Title: Approximate annual sales volume
Retailer under $500,000
Manufacturer $500,000 - $1 million
Company Name:
Address: Wholesaler $1 million - $5 million
Importer $5 million - $10 million
City: Province: Designer $10 million - $20 million
Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) over $20 million
Other __________________________________
Postal Code:
Categories you personally manage
Retailer Designer
Phone: ( ) Fax: ( )
Number of employees at your location
Email Address (optional): 1-3 4- 8 9-12 over 13 Gemologist Supplier
Manufacturer
Number of locations ____________________ Other __________________________
STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR Example
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE
DETAILED INFORMATION ON 101
USE QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE ON TOP OF PAGE
STEP 4
FAX NOW TO: 1-888-849-0155 or (416) 703-6392 | OR MAIL CARD TODAY TO: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106 Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

105.CJ_LastWord.qxd:Layout 1 1/29/09 11:18 AM Page 97
lastword
FAMED ENGLISH PAINTER AND WRITER JOHN BERGER ONCE SAID:
“Glamour cannot exist without personal social envy

being a common and widespread emotion”.
Featuring an 11.50 ct. tanzanite accented with ideal-cut diamonds (3.50 ctw.), this platinum ribbons ring designed by
Julie Buckareff from JJ Buckar in Toronto will surely elicit envy from everyone who isn’t wearing it.
Photo courtesy of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) and Robert and Orasa Weldon

098_CJ Zinzi ad.qxd:Layout 1
2/2/09
9:17 AM
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100.CJ Mirage ad.qxd:Layout 1 1/30/09 11:28 AM Page 44

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Canadian Jeweller Magazine February March 2009

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Dec08C_Cover1.qxd:CJSept05_Cover.

qxd 2/2/09 9:59 AM Page 2

canadian jeweller Just Watch Me

Business from the Heart

The Ideal Marriage

to meet customer needs

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 96.

Canada’s leading ring and

The Annual E XCELLENCE iN

For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact

For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 96.

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 96.

ESTABLISHED 1879 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 • VOL . 130, NO . 1

Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

Bryan Soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | bryan@rivegauchemedia.com

Scott Jordan Designer | design@rivegauchemedia.com

Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Philip Feder, Robin Gambhir, Barbara Kingstone

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING SALES

Melissa Badr CIRCULATION MANAGER

Michele Aubie RECEPTION

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

8 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

8[YWki[ dej^_d] _i mehj^ ceh[ je ki j^Wd oekh f[WY[ e\ c_dZ$

_ie /&&' h[]_ij[h[Z

46 Combining the New with the Old

52 The Ideal Marriage

70 Re-examining Your Buying Strategies

72 Business from the Heart

78 How Responsible Are We?

82 Cost and Effect

10 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

Teck Cominco cuts jobs; IGC and Nkwe merge;

42 Face Value 97 Last Word

:KHUH WKHUH·V VPRNH WKHUH·V ÀUH TM

Brokers of Rare Jewels

 Natural Fancy Colored Diamonds

L IF E HAS I TS MOM ENTS.. .

... MA K E THEM UNFORGET T ABL E

Price vs. Value

14 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 96.

Champagne Diamonds by Rare & Precious Gems

Canadian Diamonds Mined, Cut and Polished in Canada

16 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

Mirage Wedding Bands

18 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

For details, write #112 on Free Info Page, page 96.

For details, write #117 on Free Info Page, page 96.

For details, write #118 on Free Info Page, page 96.

Barrick Gold Appoints

22 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

Russell Simmons Presented the

24 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 96.

news trends events

26 CJ FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009

Italy’s Top Designers Bring High

FEBRUARY /MARCH 2009 CJ 27

De Beers Ends Relationship

MCD Pearl Imports

catalogue available upon request

27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

:KHUH WKHUH·V VPRNH WKHUH·V ÀUH TM

Natural Fancy Colored Diamonds