Chapter One

Company Profile

Introduction of Company
NIAGARA Textiles Ltd. is one of the leading Textile products manufacturing company in
Bangladesh.
Fig-01: Niagara Textile Ltd.

The company is managed by a group of dynamic professionals, working proactively in a

challenging environment. NIAGARA is committed to provide excellent services to its clients. It
is dedicated to focus on quality in order to excel in its performance. They make every effort to
delight their customers by producing best quality Textile products at a finest price through
efficient utilization of available resources. They manufacture and export high quality textile
products at a rational price produced in an environmental friendly process and working high
level of honesty and justice in dealing with our stakeholders. Their mission is to provide
excellent quality and value added textile products at a competitive price for ultimate satisfaction
of our customers.
Since 1980 to till date the Apparel sector of Bangladesh has passed through different huddles &
obstacles and now has reached a stage where it can compete with all its competitors in price and
quality as well as variety. In this situation, Niagara Textiles Ltd. is a vertically set up textiles unit,
which starts its operation in 2001 from knitting and ships the end product i.e. garments. The
factory is well operational with high performance machinery and experienced technicians are
engaged here to ensure the quality and customer satisfaction. They can produce international
standard fabric and garments.

Location Map From BUBT to NTL

Dhaka EPZ

Nandan Park

Niagara
Textile
Ltd.

Saver Golf
Club

Fantasy
Kingdom

Gabtali Bus
Stand

National
Zoo

Bangladesh
-Korea
Technical
Institute

Sony
Cinema

BUBT
2nd
Campus

BUBT
Permanent
Campus

Layout NIAGARA TEXTILE LIMITED

Trai
ning
buil
ding

W.T.P

( Steel building-2 )Floor-3

finishing, Floor-2 cutting, Floor-1
carton store/grey store/organic store
3

(Steel
Building-3)
Finishing

Dyeing
section

Grey
fabric
inspectio

Chemi
cal
store
Finishing
section

Co
mpr
esso
r
roo

E.T.
P

Brus
h

(Steel
building-1)

*Floor-6,5,4,3 sewing
*Floor-2 office/
prayer/sample

Yarn store

Medical
and day
care centre

*Floor-1 knitting

Elect
rical
work

Gen
erat
or
roo
Mec
hanic
al
work

Building-1
*Floor -7 gmts
store/dining

Boile
r

Building-2

H.R.D
Store
room
Receive
d room
Gas substation
room
Receiption

*Floor-7 Dining
*Floor-6,5,4,3 Sewing
*Floor-2 Printing
*Floor-1 Knitting

Security
room

Dhaka Tangail Road

West
North

South
East

General Information
Name of the factory: NIAGARA TEXTILE LTD.(NTL).

Owner of the factory:

Mr. Ahsan Habib, Chairman
Mr. Nurul Hasan Mukti, M.D.
Mr.Abu Baker Siddique, Director
Mr. Shahinur Islam Zinnah, Director

Location of the factory: Chandra Circle, Union-Atabaha, Kaliakoir, Gazipur.

Head office: 27 Bijoy Nagar,Suite#C-1(1st floor),Dhaka-1000.
Commertial Production Started: 2001.
Business Line: Manufacturing & Marketing of high quality Knitted fabric.
Manpower: 4500 employees (Approx)
Member of :
Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures & Exporters Association (BKMEA).
Bangladesh Garment Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA).
Industrial & Business Welfare Foundation (IBWF).

Vision:
To be the most ideal garment and building a true marketing with motivated workforce,
innovative vision, and strong revenue based product, customer satisfaction & understand of
global market.

Mission:
To provide customized sourcing and logistics solutions to global clients having unique
requirements. To achieve consistent high quality levels and on-time delivery schedules, through a
team of committed personnel and a proven set of vendors with World Class, systematic
manufacturing facilities.
To open window for new avenue of business diver sit and development team always keen to deal
new type of product apart from garments and textile items.

Product Range of NTL

1. Fabric
2. Long Wear
3. Active Wear

4.
5.
6.
7.

Sleep Wear
Athletic Wear
Sports Wear
Under Wear

NTL has categorized its products in two main categories which are known as:
1. Tops
2. Bottoms

TOPS

High Neck
Polo Shirt
T- Shirt
V- Neck
Raglan Shirt
Jacket
Tank Top

Pant
Short
Trouser
Underwear

BOTTOMS

Production capacity:

Garments Division (60,000 Pcs ready made garments per day )

Knitting Section (Capacity: 20,000 kg/day)
Dyeing & Finishing Section (Capacity: 20,000 kg/day)
Printing Section (Capacity:50000 Pcs/day-One Color Basic Rubber Print)

Export Countries:

Banking
Information:
Bank used for L.C

Awards & Certificates:

1)

Best Compliant Factory 2008 by BKMEA

2)

WRAP(Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production)

3)

OekoTex 100(OEKO-TEX Standard 100)

4)

OE 100(Organic Exchange 100)

5)

OE BLENDED (Organic Exchange Blended)

6)

BSCI (Business Social Compliance Issues)

Facility:
Here are some existing facilities given below:

Pure Drinking Water Supply

Dining Hall

Auto Attendance

CAD/CAM

ERP

Own Covered Van

In house printing

Well Equipped Lab

Full Time Medical

10

Baby Day Care

Transportation

Fully Compliant

Physical Infrastructure
1) Two concrete building (seven storied)
2) Three steel building
Power produce by gas generator and petrol generator

11

Area details :
Building-1( Knitting,Office,Sewing,Garment store,Dining) -------------9000sft/floor
Building-2(Knitting collar,Printing,Sewing,Dining)----------------------5500sft/floor
Steel building 1(Bonded warehouse )---------------------------------------40,000 sft
Steel building 2( Grey store,Cutting,Garments finishing )--------------18500sft/floor
Dyeing & finishing(1)--------------------------------------------------------20000sft
Steel building 3 (Dyeing,finishing 2)--------------------------------------14000sft
Grand Total = 2, 08,500 sft

Different Departments:
Production Oriented Department:

Yarn store
Raw fabric store & Raw fabric inspection section
Knitting
Planning & Control
Batching
Chemical store
Dyeing Section
Finishing Section
Dyeing lab section
Wet lab
Garments Section
Quality Control
Maintenance
Utility
Water treatment plant

Supporting department:

Merchandising
Marketing
Compliance
IT
HRD
Finance & accounting
Medical
Personnel Administration

12

NTL Present Clients:

13

Chapter Two

Management System

14

15

Organogram of knitting section

Manager
Assistant Manager
Production Officer
Assistant Production
Officer
Supervisor
Operator
Helper

Organogram of Dyeing section:

AGM
Dyeing

Manager

Deputy

Manager

Production

Officer

Officer
Junior

Officer

Assistant

Officer

Operator
Helper

16

Organogram of Dyeing Finishing Section:

Manager(QAD)
Assistant
Manager
Quality
Senior

Checker
Officer

Officer
Junior

Officer

Assistant

Officer

Helper

Organogram of Garment Production Section:

17

Garment

Manager

Assistant Production
Manager

Apparel

Floor

Engineer

Incharge

Line

Cheap

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

Table-01: Manpower of NTL

Section
Office Staff
Admin
Boiler
Knitting
Dyeing
Cutting
Printing
Sewing
Finishing
Total

Male
605
130
67
96
408
138
18
534
355
2351

Female
16
82
0
0
0
79
57
1613
140
1987

Total
621
212
67
96
408
217
75
2147
495
4338

Table-02:Shift Change (only for Dyeing and Knitting section):

General shift is applicable for some officers.
Shift
A
B
C
General
_ Shift

From
6am
2pm
10pm
8am

Management System:
Buyer sample is send to G.M.
18

To
2pm
10am
6am
5pm

Matching is done by lab in charge.

Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing master.
Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
Approved sample is returned and taken as standard sample for bulk production.
Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer.
Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production.
On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing master.
After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the supervision of

production officer.
After finishing, the material is checked by asst. dyeing master.
Finally G.M. checks the result with asst. dyeing master and decision is taken for delivery.

The Activities of Human Resource Department:

Human resources planning

Staffing
Training & Development
Compensation Management
Employee Evaluation
Employee Movement and Replacement

Duties & Responsibilities of Different Designation

Managing Director:
To deal with the buyer and merchandiser.
To set up price for the product.
To plan apply and control all administrative functions.

To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.

General Manager:
He meets with marketing team for future orders, present order status, and product costing
and to discuss capacity status of the factory/s. He takes decision to accept any order or
not when there is less margin.

He handles production issues and when required he can directly contact to buyer for
approval of variations.

Production planning, Material planning and machinery planning is done or reviewed by

him.

For the reduction of making cost and production friendly samples, he changes technical
setting of the garment.

He attends pre-production meeting and ensure that important points are discussed at
meeting.

He does follow up day to day production from each line and ensures that production
units meet the production target.

19

 He ensures that factory produces quality product at minimum alteration and repair cost.
He ensures that only quality goods are shipped to the buyers.

He plans shipment dispatch with documentation and shipping department.

He checks manpower costing of each floor and try to keep manpower cost under control.
Cost cutting is continuous goal to a General Manager. He looks into things possible
ways where production cost can be minimized and goes for it.

To motivate employees and enrich their knowledge in certain areas training program is
arranged by him.

He makes sure that all factories are compliance as per buyer.

He ensures smooth flow of information and material from one department to another. He
resolves inter-departmental issues if there is any.

Manager:
To supervise the personal working under him
To plan the sequence of production
To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.
To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production?
To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.

Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (production):

Has the responsibilities for running the garment department including production
planning, operation control, measuring and monitoring of product and the process.
Inspection test status, taking corrective and preventive action.
Controlling nonconforming products at intermediate and final stages in Garment
Department.
Analyzing product and process performance form measurement process to identify area
for improvement.

Production Manager:
Receives cutting fabrics according style, color and size form cutting section
Prepare sewing lines of floor & report to A.G.M. in three time every day.
Distribute the cutting fabrics according to style, size & color to the respective line
supervisors.
Control the Sewing In charge, Q.C, Assist Q.C., supervisor, Asst. Supervisor, quality
Inspector, Operator & helper.
Maintain floor discipline & cleanness.

Any other works as & when required by the management.

Quality Check (Sewing):

20

Check every complete garment, oil mark, dirty spot, yarn marks, fabric fault.
Check the ironing of complete garment.
Control the measurement and tolerance.
Prepare the pre-final quality control report.
Checks getup property.
Shade matching base to base & country wise.
Any other works as and when required by the management.

Quality Check (Cutting):

Prepare batch wise cutting report and send to the authorized person.
After complete the fabrics cutting report to A. G. M. of garment.
Prepare weekly cutting report.
Control the pattern master, Cutting master, Cutting supervisor, Cutting man, Neck man,
Cutting helper & Labor
Control the cutting quality for bulk production, shrinkage & consumption.
Look after the cutting & band knife machine.

Sewing in Charge:
Receives cutting fabrics according to style, color & size from cutting section.
Prepare sewing lines of floor & report to A. G. M. in three time everyday.
Distribute the cutting fabrics according to style, size & color to the respective line
supervisors.
Control the sewing in charge Q.C., Asst. Supervisor, quality inspector, operator & helper.
Maintain floor discipline & cleanness.
Any other works as & when required by the management

Chapter Three

Machine Description
21

Knitting Section
Table-03: Flat knitting machine ( Machine Specification):
SL. NO

Brand Name

Model

Machine Gauge

Power

Length

Origin

01
02

KAUO HENG
KAUO HENG

KH-313
KH-313

14
14

220V
220V

54
54

TAIWAN
TAIWAN

03

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

04

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

05

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

06

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

07

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

08

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

09

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

10

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

11

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

12

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

22

13

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

14

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

15

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

16

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

17

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

18

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

19

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

20

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

21

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

22

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

23

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

24

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

25

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

26

KAUO HENG

KH-313

14

220V

54

TAIWAN

27

JY LEH

JS-101

14

220V

80

TAIWAN

28

JY LEH

JS-101

14

220V

80

TAIWAN

Table-04: Circular knitting machine (Machine Specification):

No

Brand Name

01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18

PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
TERROT
TERROT
TERROT
TERROT

Machine
Type
Double Jersey
Double Jersey
Double Jersey
Double Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Double Jersey
Double Jersey
Double Jersey
Double Jersey

23

Machine
Dia
366
408
426
386
346
346
346
346
246
23
226
216
216
206
366
306
366
346

Machine
Gauge
188
188
188
188
246
246
246
246
246
246
246
246
246
246
226
226
226
226

Origin
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY

19
20
21
22
23
24
25

ORIZIO
ORIZIO
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG
PAI LUNG

Double Jersey
Double Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey

306
306
256
346
366
346
306

246
246
246
246
246
186
186

ITALY
ITALY
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN

Table-05: Auto Stripe Machine (Machine Specification):

No
01
02

Manufacturer
Name
PRECISION
FUKUHARA
WORKS, LTD.
PRECISION
FUKUHARA
WORKS, LTD.

Machine
Dia
34

Machine
Gauge
24

Model

Origin

VX-RSY3RE

JAPAN

30

24

VX-RSY3RE

JAPAN

Table-06: Machines used for dyeing lab

Machine Name

Brand

Origin

Sample dyeing machine

FONGS

HONGKONG

Sample dyeing machine

FONGS

HONGKONG

Sample dyeing machine

FONGS

HONGKONG

Tumble dryer

Whirlpool

AMERICA

6 kg

Tumble dryer

Whirlpool

AMERICA

6 kg

Incubator(perspiration,
water, Saliva test machine)
Spectro photometer

memmert

GERMANY

Datacolor

USA

Color fastness to rubbing

Crockmaster

England

PH mater

HANNA

USA

Shaker machine

GFL

KOREA

Washing machine

Wascater

Sweden

Color machine cabinet

Verivide

England

24

Capacity

6 kg

Table-07: Dyeing Machine Specification ( Sample):

Machine
No

Brand
Name

Capacity

No. of
Nozzle

01

PMM (Atmospheric
Winch)
PMM (Atmospheric
Winch)
PMM (Atmospheric
Winch)
ACME (High
Temperature Winch)
PMM (Atmospheric
Winch)
DILMENLER (High
Temperature Winch)

25kg

02
03
04
05
06

01

Maximum
Operating
Temperature
98c

Manufac
turing
Year
2001

Origin
Turkey

25kg

01

98c

2002

Turkey

25kg

01

98c

2005

Turkey

50kg

01

135c

2005

Taiwan

25kg

01

98c

2005

Turkey

50kg

01

135c

2005

Turkey

Table-08: Dyeing Machine Specification ( Production):

Machine
No

Brand
Name

Capacity

01

PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)
PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)
PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)
PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)
PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)
ACME (High
Temperature
Winch)
PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)

02
03
04
05
06
07

200kg

No. of
Nozzl
e
02

Maximum
Operating
Temperature
98c

300kg

03

400kg

Manufacturing Origin
Year
2001

Turkey

98c

2001

Turkey

04

98c

2001

Turkey

600kg

06

98c

2001

Turkey

700kg

08

98c

2002

Turkey

600kg

02

135c

2005

Taiwa
n

750kg

05

98c

2005

Turkey

25

08

PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)
PMM
(Atmospheric
Winch)
DILMENLER
(High Temperature
Winch)
DILMENLER
(High Temperature
Winch)
DILMENLER
(High Temperature
Winch)
ACME (High
Temperature
Winch)
ACME (High
Temperature
Winch)
ACME (High
Temperature
Winch)
SCLAVOS

09
10
11
12
13
14
15
16

300kg

02

135c

2003

Turkey

100kg

01

98c

2005

Turkey

150kg

01

135c

2005

Turkey

300kg

01

135c

2005

Turkey

450kg

02

135c

2005

Turkey

1200kg

04

135c

2006

Taiwa
n

1500kg

05

135c

2006

Taiwa
n

1200kg

04

135c

2008

Taiwa
n

300kg

01

135c

2012

Greece

Dyeing finishing Section:

Table-09: Hydro-extractor Machine(Machine Specification):
SL.
NO
01

Brand Name
BENEKS

Machine
Speed
10-80
m/min

Working Width

Machine Type

Year

Origin

350mm-1400mm

BS.1600

2001

Turkey

Table-10: Dryer machine(Machine Specification):

SL. NO

Brand Name

No of Blower

Origin

01

PPM

03

Turkey

Table-11: Tubular Compactor Machine (Machine Specification):

26

SL NO

Brand Name

Origin

01

SERTEKS

Turkey (Istanbul)

Compactor temperature depends on fabric construction and GSM.

Table-12: Slitter machine (Machine Specification)

SL NO.

Brand Name

Construction
Year
2013

Origin

Bianco

Maximum Speed
(m/min)
90

01
02

Bianco

90

2006

Italy

Italy

Table-13: Stenter Machine (Machine Specification)

NO
. of
M/
C
02

Brand
Name

Mod
el No

W/W

No. of
Burne
r

No. of
Chambe
r

No. of
Blowe
r

LK &
LH
CO.LT
D

FWS920
TKM

2800m
m

06

06

12

No.
of
Moto
r
80

Manufactu
ring year

Origin

2005

Taiwan

Table-14: Textile Compactor Machine (Machine Specification):

NO. OF
M/C
02

Brand Name

Maximum Speed

Table Width Maximum

Origin

Bianco

30m/min

105 inch

Italy

Table-15: Compaction Machine Parameter

SL.
No.
01

Fabric Type

G.S.M

Machine Speed

Temperature

15

Stream
Pressure(BAR)
3-4

Single Jersey

120-130

02

Single Jersey

140-160

18

3-4

120c-130c

03

Single Jersey

160-220

20

3-4

120c-130c

27

120c-130c

04

Double Lacost

200-220

25

3-4

120c-130c

05

Single Lacost

200-220

25

3-4

120c-130c

06

Fleece

350-360

25

3-4

120c-130c

07

Fleece

380-400

25-30

3-4

120c-130c

08

L-Single Jersey

200-220

15

3-4

120c-130c

09

Rib

200-220

15

3-4

120c-130c

10

22Rib

220-250

15

3-4

120c-130c

11

Interlock

240-260

12

3-4

120c-130c

12

Cotton/Viscose

200-220

12

3-4

120c-130c

Table-16: Brush machine (Machine Specification):

SL NO.

Brand name

Origin

01

ART-Tex

TAIWAN

Table-17: Garment washing machine specification:

SL. NO.

Brand name

Model

Power

Year

Origin

01

Flying tiger

WA-4

440v

2014

Taiwan

02

Flying tiger

WA-4

440v

2014

Taiwan

Table-18: Tumble dryer machine (Machine Specification):

Machine NO.

Brand Name

Model No

28

Origin

01
WHOLE PLANT
Machine Name
Brand Name
02
WHOLE PLANT
Lock stitch machine
JUKI
Flat 03
lock machine WHOLE PLANT
PEGASUS

PT-3
PT-4
PT-4

Over04
lock machine

TA TING PEGASUS
TT-120
MECHINERY CO.
Over lock machine
JUKI
LTD.
05 machine
PEACOCK JUKI
PC-7
Zigzag
SL NO
Machine
Name
Brand
Name
MECHINERY
01
CAD CO. LTD.
Lectra
WORKS
02
CAD
Lectra
06
PEACOCK
PC-7
03
Digitizing board/Drawing
Lectra
MECHINERYboard
WORKS CO. LTD.
07
PEACOCK
PC-7
MECHINERY
WORKS CO. LTD.
08
PEACOCK
PC-7
MECHINERY
WORKS CO. LTD.

Garments Section
Table-19: Sewing machine used in sample section:
Table-20: CAD

Table-21: Straight Knife Cutting Machine (Specification):

29

Taiwan
Quantity
Taiwan
12
03 Taiwan
08 Taiwan
01
02 Taiwan
Year
Origin
Total=26
2006
France
2010 Taiwan
France
2006
France
Taiwan
Taiwan

SL NO.

Brand Name

Volt

Speed

Phase

Blade Length

Origin

01
02

Mack
Mack

230
230

3000/3600
3000/3600

1
1

10
10

Japan
Japan

03

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

04

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

05

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

06

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

07

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

08

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

09

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

10

Mack

230

3000/3600

10

Japan

11

Mack

230

3000/3600

08

Japan

12

Mack

230

3000/3600

08

Japan

Table-22: Band knife (Specification):

SL NO.

Brand Name

Cutting capacity

Weight

Volt

Knife size

Origin

01

KM

180mm

218kg

220

3360100.45m
m

China

Sewing section
Table-23: Types of machine list
No

Types of machines

Quantity

Brand Name

01

Plain machine

629

Juki

02

Flat lock machine

174

Pegasus, Juki, Amata

03

Over lock machine

319

Pegasus, Juki, Amata

04

Back tape

Kansai

05

Button stitch

19

Pegasus

06

Snap button

Prym, YK

07

Puckding

Kansai

08

Rip cutting

Pegasus

09

PMD

Kansai

30

10

Bar tack

Juki

11

Button hole

16

Pegasus

12

Feed of the arm

Juki

13

Re-cone

Hasima

14

2 Needle plain machine

Juki

15

DFD

Kansai

16

Zigzag plain machine

Juki

17

Cover stitch

Juki

18

Smoke (Elastic thread)

Kansai

Total machine

1208

Finishing section
Table-24: Thread sucker
SL NO.
01
02
03
04

Brand Name
UZV
UZV
UZV
UZV

Year
2005
2005
2005
2005

Origin
Thailand
Thailand
Thailand
Thailand

Table-25: Needle Detector Machine

SL NO.

Brand Name

Origin

01
02

CINTEX
PANDORA ASSOCIATES

England
England

Printing Section
Table-26: Auto heat press
NO. of M/C

Brand Name

Origin

01

Jupiter

China

Table-27: Curing Machine

NO. of M/C

Brand Name

31

01

SIROCO FAN

Table-28: Dryer Machine

NO. of M/C

Model

Brand Name

Origin

16

Fakang 321

Philips

United States

Chapter Four

Raw Material

32

Types of yarn

Count

Cotton

20Ne,24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne,32Ne,
34Ne,36Ne,40Ne,45Ne

Polyester

70D,100D,150D

Spandex yarn

20D,40D

Grey Melange

24Ne,26Ne

Ecru Melange

24Ne,26Ne,28Ne

Cotton Melange

24Ne,26Ne,28Ne

PC (Polyester 65% & Cotton 35%)

24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne

CVC (Polyester 60% & cotton 40%)

24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne

Table-29: Raw material for knitting

Raw materials for dyeing:

Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:
1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.

Raw materials for cutting:

Marker Paper
Finished Fabric

Raw materials for sewing:

Garment parts
Sewing thread
Trims & Accessories

Raw materials for Garment Finishing:

Garments
Tag pin
Hang tag
Poly bag
Levels
Hanger
Carton

33

Chapter Five

Internship Activity

34

KNITTING Section
Process Definition:
The fundamental unit of a knitted fabric is the loop. Any circular knitted fabric is composed of
row after row of intermeshed loops. Different types of fabric are made of different method of
intermeshing the loops. The gross dimension of knitted fabric is simply a reflection of any shape
& size of individual loops. There are several key variables in the production which affect the
average shape & size of the loops. After knitting the grey fabric is dyed to required shade &
finished to required weight & width.

Fig-02: Knitting Section

Process
chart of

flow

knitting:
Yarn in cone form

35

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement & tension device
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric & weighting
Inspection
Numbering

Different Section of Knitting:

Knitting

Knitting Section Collar

Knitting Section

Knitting Section
A

Knitting Collar Section

36

Knitting Section
B

Fig-03: Flat Knitting Machine

Uses of Flat Knitting Machines:

The common products: jumpers, pullovers, cardigans, dresses, suits, trouser suits, hats, scarves,
accessories, ribs for straight-bar machines (fully fashioned machines). Cleaning clothes, threedimensional and fashioned products for technical applications, multi-axial machines are under
development.

Source of yarn for knitting:

Sinha rotor spinning ltd.

Al-haj karim textile ltd.

Padma textile
Prime textile
FM yarn dyeing ltd.
Jamuna spinning
Square textile
Viyellatex spinning ltd.
Delta spinning mills ltd.
Apex yarn dyeing

Fig-03: Yarn

Layout of Knitting collar section:

37

Table

Table
Exit

Exit

Self
First aid box
North
Flat knitting machine(Small)
Flat knitting machine(Large)

West

East

South

Layout of Knitting Section -A

38

Office

Office
Exit

Fabric
Store

Fabric
Inspection
Machine
Exit

South

Circular knitting machine

East

West

Auto stripe machine

North

Layout of Knitting Section -B

39

Exit

Exit
Exit

Office

First aid box

Danger electricity

South

East

West

Circular knitting machine

North

FABRIC TYPES:

40

1)Single Jersey
a) Single jersey (Plain)
b) Single lacoste
c) Double lacoste
d) Polo pique
e) Fleece fabric
2)Double jersey
a) Rib fabric
i) 1x1 Rib
ii) 2x1 Rib
iii) 2x2

Rib

Fig-04: Marking after weight

iv) Lycra Rib

v) Flat Back Rib
b) Interlock fabric
i) Plain interlock
ii) Drop needle interlock
3) Back Brush.
4) Collar and Cuff
i) Plain Collar or Solid collar
ii) Shaving Collar.
iii) Jacquard Collar.
iv) Tipping Collar.
v) Race Collar.
vi) Stripe Collar.
5) Different decorative single and double jersey
fabric.
Fig-04: Fabric

Grey fabric store:

They collect grey fabrics from the knitting section and keep in a rack with resister and attach bin
card. Before requisition comes from dyeing section they keep it in the store.

41

Process flow chart of grey fabric store:

(Receive/Keeping/Issue system)

Fabric Receive

Inventory 100% as
per challan and
maintain resister

Keeping the fabrics on

the rack and color wise
indicating bin card

Posting in the resister

as per buyer
Fig-05: Weighting

Issue the fabrics as

per requisition

Not ok fabric will

return to dyeing store

Batch Section:
After requisition comes from the dyeing they deliver the grey fabric to the batch section.

Batch Process Flow Chart:

42

Fabric Received & stored

Fabric Divided according to Diameter after buyers recommendation

Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation

Inspection

Send for Dyeing

Function or purpose of batch section:

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
To perform the grey inspection.
Turn the grey fabric if require.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
M/C capacity
M/C available
Type of fabrics
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep records for every fabrics before dyeing.

Dyeing Lab

43

Fig-06: Some equipment of dyeing lab

Layout of Dyeing lab

Shrinkage board

Standard sample
Exit

Tabl
e
2
Table

Des
Des

Almirah

Exit
1
1
L
i
g

C
o
m
pu

West

44

P
ri
n

1
1

Machine

North

South

East

Flow chart of dyeing lab:

Color from buyer

Color ?

Panton no.

Swatch

Scan swatch in
CMC data color
machine

Find color in shade

book

Match similar color

Select most similar

color

Take recipe from

shade book

Dyes are selected

according to
fastness
45

Find color in panton

book

Reassume recipe based on color

Diference between current color
& buyer color

Recipe preparation

Dye stock/pipeting

Salt dosing

Insert fabric

Soda dosing

Machine for
heating

Cooling up to
room temp.

Fabrics unload
from machine

Cold wash
46

Hot wash

Dry err/Iron
No
Shade matching

Appoved ?
Yes
Preparing 3
sample fo buyer

Defining LD no.
for each sample

Sent to buyer
No
Buyer approved ?

LD no. to
merchandiser

Lab Dip

Dyeing recipe
sheet to dyeing
47

Dyeing Floor
Dyeing Deputy Manager
Office

Dyeing Manager
Office

Exit
Heater

Exit

m/c
m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c
m/c

m/c
m/c

m/c
m/c

m/c

m/c

m/c

South
m/c
48

Dyeing machine
West

East

North

Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:

Single jersey
Single jersey with lycra
Polo pique
Single lacoste
Fleece
Interlock
Interlock with lycra
Rib
Rib with lycra
Different types of collar & cuff

Fig-07: Dyeing Floor

49

Fig-07: Unloading Dyed fabric from machine

Dyeing Finishing Section

Layout of finishing section: 1
Office

Fabric store

Squeezer
Compactor machine

Table

Inspection
table

Exit

rack
Exit
rack

Slitting
machine

Stenter machine

Fabric
inspection
zone
Slitting
machine

Hydroextractor

Dryer
machine

Compactor
machine
rack
Compactor
machine

Slitting
machine

rack
50

Inspectio
n table
Fabric
inspectio
n

South

West

East

North

Lay out of finishing section 2:

Rack

Rack

Rack

Exit

Rack
Compactor machine

Table
Over
lock
machi
ne

Rack

Stenter machine

51

Over
lock
m/c

South
West

East
North

Dyeing finishing:
Finishing machineries are used for applying varies types of finishes to the fabric or textile
materials.
All the finishing sequence is not same. Finishing sequence depends on the material type. Say,
dyed yarn finishing process or garments finishing process is not similar as knit fabric finishing
process. Although, finishing sequence of open form and tubular fabric form is not similar. After
dyeing ,knit is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabrics are dyed in tubular form.

Following machineries are used for tubular from fabric finishing:

Hydro-extractor Machine

Dryer

Tubular Compactor

Hydro-extractor Machine:
It is designed for squeezing of the knitting fabrics in tubular form after dyeing and washing also
can be use softener. For the totaly automatic operation of the line it is necessary to install a
turntable, which receivers the control from the de-twister. The machine is completely made of
stainless steel.

52

Fig-08:

Hydroextractor Machine

Dryer machine:
Drying is done after de-watering of fabric. In textile finishing unit; dryer uses for dry the knit.
But the drying process and drying mechanism of fabrics is different from one to another. The
main functions of a textile dryer is to dry the textile fabrics. Drying is defined as a process where
the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the fabric.

Fig-09: Dryer

Machine
(Feed Zone)

53

Fig-09: Dryer Machine (Back Side)

Function of Dryer machine:

Function of dryer: Various types of functions are achieved by the dryer. Following functions are
most common.
1) To dry the fabric.
2) To control the overfeed system.
3) To control vibration which increase the GSM.
4) To control shrinkage % of the fabric.
5) To control the GSM of the fabric.
6) To match the shade of the fabric.
7) To adjust the tone of the fabric.

Tubular Compactor Machine:

Tubular compactor machine is referred to the compactor machine for tubular knitted fabrics
which is used as finishing machine. It is used for shrinkage control, GSM control, compact the
fabric and increase smoothness of fabric. Tubular compactor is industrial machinery used after
hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer.

Functions of Tubular
Compactor:
1. Shrinkage control,
2. Fabric width control,
3. GSM Control,
4. Fabric smoothness is achieved by the
tubular compactor.
5. Heat setting of fabric for Lycra
in quality machine
6. Shade checking,
7. Width checking,
8. Edge line checking
Fig-10: Tubular Compactor Machine

Following machineries are used for open form fabric finishing:

54

Slitter Machine

Stenter Machine

Open Compactor

Function of the Slitting Machine:

1)To open tube fabric according to specific needle
mark
2) Used to remove excess water after pretreatment
and dyeing.
3) To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening
of the fabric and ready for stentering.
4) Before squeezing balloon is formed with the
help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air
sprayer.
5) It can control the diameter of fabric
and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding
mechanism.
6) To prepare the fabric for next stentering
process.
Fig-12: Slitting Machine

Function of Stenter Machine:

1) GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
2) Spirality controlled by the stenter.
3) Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
4) Loop of the knit fabric is controlled by the stenter.
5) Finishing chemicals apply on the fabric by the
stenter.
6) Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
7) Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric,
synthetic and blended fabric.
8) Fabric is dried by the stenter.
9) Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled by the
stenter.

Fig-12: Stenter Machine

Textile Compactor Machine:

Compactor is a textile finishing machine which is designed specially for compacting 100%
cotton knitted fabric like jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and sinker etc. as well as cotton
blended fabric in rope form, changing the loft and dimensional stability of the fabric and
presenting it to plaited form. Fitted with two felt compacting units which makes it to obtain top
quality fabric, with minimized shrinking nature and a soft fluffy hand.

55

Function of compactor machine

1) GSM control of the knitted fabric. For
high GSM, overfeed is increased and
fabric width is decreased. For low GSM,
overfeed is decreased and fabric width is
increases
2) Control shrinkage.
3) Twisting control.
4) Increase smoothness of fabric.
5) Heat setting is done of fabric etc.

Fig-13: Compactor Machine

Garment Sample Section

Layout of sample section:
Dummy room
Rack

Rack

Inspection table
p

Pattern
table

Exit

56

Iron
table
Iron
table

Input
table

Input
table

Input
table

Ready for cutting

Exit

Cutting
table
East

Sewing machine

South

North
West

Rack

Sample Section

Sample is the specimen of any product.

Sample is a specimen or we can say a part which shows that the whole is look like.
Sample is the physical form of design.

In Apparel Industry Sample is the physical form of buyers style.

Some Complete Sample in dummy

57

Fig14:

Some photo of sample section

Sewing machine used in sample

section:
Machine Name

Brand Name

Quantity

Lock stitch machine

JUKI

12

Flat lock machine

PEGASUS

03

Over lock machine

PEGASUS

08

Over lock machine

JUKI

01

Zigzag machine

JUKI

02
Total=26

Operation break down for sample section:

There are nine groups of operator in sample section each group has two operator. One group
complete one sample garment whole by using the different types of sewing machine that they
needed.
Design or Sketch:
It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurement of particular style.
Basic Block:
It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.
Working Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension. .
Problem of Production or Production Related Matter:
Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.
Approved Sample:
The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.
Send to Buyer:
When all process is done, then the garments are sent to buyer.

58

Fig-15: Digitizing Board

Production Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net
dimension along with allowance.

Pattern Making:
Pattern is the one of important element of a
design. In a garment industries there are two type
of pattern uses based on their capability. Mostly
big companies are use CAD (Computer aided
design) as well as little companies uses manual
pattern. In NIAGARA use CAD also manual
pattern in some cases. Basically Lectra Software
uses here.

Picture of Pattern

Marker section:
In NIAGARA marker is made both manual system & automatic system. In computer aided
marker NIAGARA use Lectra software.
In manual marker making process, marker man use pattern paper to draw different garments
parts in marker paper.

59

Fig-16:

Marker
paper

Sample required for different types of buyer in Niagara textile

Sample stages for signet
a) Fit sample
b) Size set sample
c) If size set sample is approved than pre production sample

Sample stages for H&M

a) Quatation sample
b) Size set sample
c) Counter sample

Sample stages for BANEX

a) Fit sample
b) Pre production sample
c) Sales man sample

Sample stages for SEARS

a) Fit sample
b) Photo sample
c) Pre production

Sample stages for EURO CENTER

a)
b)
c)
d)

Fit sample
Size set sample
Pre production sample
Counter sample

60

Fig-17: Some Sample

Cutting Section
Layout of cutting section:
Office Room

Fabrics Relax zone

Cutting Table
-14

Cutting Table-1

Cutting Table-2

Ready for Input

Cutting Table-3
Cutting Table-13
Cutting Table-12

Cutting Table-4

Cutting Table-11

Cutting Table-5
Cutting Table-6

Cutting Table-10

Cutting Table-7
Cutting Table-9
Cutting Table-8
Input
Fabric
61

Tabl
e

Male Toilet

East
South

North
West

Fabric Spreading & Cutting Section

Spreading - layering the fabrics:
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for obtaining
a high quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long,
wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is
dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines
are used for bulk production.

Fig-18: Fabric Relaxation & Spreading

62

Objectives of spreading process:

Understanding the process of fabric spreading
Factors affecting spreading
Face and nap of the fabric

Table-30: Fabric spreading system:

Fabric type
Fleece
Rib (1x1,2x2)
Lycra single jersey
Single jersey

Height

length

4 inch
3 inch
2 inch
10-15 inch

6 yard
4 yard
4 yard
5 yard

Types of Lay Plan:

Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for example one side left or
right. Generally used for tubular fabrics.
Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for
Open width fabrics.
Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as
the consumption of fabric is higher.

63

Fig-19:

Fabric
Spreading

Types of Lay

Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples

Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other

Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally
used for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.

Forms of Spreading:

One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern
running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.

Face to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern
runs in the same direction.

Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left
without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain
restrictions or one directional printed fabric.

64

Fig-19:

Fabric
Spreading

Requirements of Spreading Process:

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at
least equal to marker length and width.
2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be
tagged and will be avoided.
3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all faces
down, face to face etc.
4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.
5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the
bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.
6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defects in garments due to
variation in dimension.
7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

Fabric Cutting
Cutting is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut into garment
components. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most critical, because once the
fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes. Cutting can be done
manually using powered knives or by computer-controlled system.

65

Fig-20: Fabric Cutting

Flowchart chart of cutting section

Receive fabric

from dyeing

Shade check
with standard

Shrinkage
check

GSM & fabric

dia check

Fabric
relaxation

Spreading
check

Marker check
66

Tension & dia

are same

Marker ratio all

parts presents

Cut mark shape

measure deviation

Lay & cut panel

measurement check

Numbering & bundling

Fabric kept from

some roll

Panel check

Re- cut

Re-cut panel
check

Print &
embroidery
check

Sewing input

Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics:

Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:-

67

Country sticker
according to cut off

All types of fabric

defects

Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill

etc.)

Thickness of fabric.

Design characteristics of finished garment.

Machines and tables used.

Equipment use in cutting section:

1) Straight knife knitting machine
2) Band knife
3) Numbering machine
4) Punch machine
5) Scissor
Fig-20: Fabric Cutting

Here Scissor is used in 100% cases in cutting section. Straight Knife is used in 100% cases for
bulk cutting directly from lay cutting.

Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel
cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99% cases
this knife is used. This machine is called straight
knife cutting machine because its cutter is straight
in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In
this machine different types of straight knife are
used according to the different cutting objects. This
machine provides good efficiency.

Features of Straight knife:

Fig-23: Straight knife

1. Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays.

2. Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric.
3. High cutting speed.
4. Sharp and heavy corners can be cut.
5. Blade could be sharpened by attached grinding facilities.

Band knife

68

KM Band Knife Cutters are for Exact Cutting of small parts. Selected the most optimum type
from among a wide section from and easily removable.

Cutting faults
Needle break
Contamination
Pin hole
Oil spot
Patta
Hale
Yarn missing
Color spot

Slub

Fig-22: Band knife

Crease mark
Embroidery defects
Print spot

Sorting/ Bundling:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per
size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.

69

Size

Color

XXL

Blue

XL

Black

Green

Red

Blue

Fig-23: Bundling

Numbering:
Only for small parts different color is used for numbering.

Table-31: Numbering Sticker

Fig-24: Numbering

Numbering with Machine

Label size: 22mmx12mm
Model Number: Blitz 2253

70

Layer &
Machine for
Adhesive
for different

Shade Numbering
Garment Industries. Self
labels In variable colors
fabrics.

There are
-

three number indicating

128=cutting
80=size no.
088=lay no.

number
Fig-24: Numbering with machine

128

80

088

Quality control flow chart of cutting

Cutting
Receive fabric
from dye store

Pattern
check

Size set make and

check measurement

Check fabric
shade,GSM, twisting
& shrinkage

If ok pilot cut
200 pieces

If pass sent for

relaxation

If not ok adjust
pattern size set
make & check
measurement

If not ok
return to dye

If ok pass for
bulk cutting

71

Lay height

Check in laying
period

Lay tension
Roll separation

Check in
table after cut
Defect part replace
by following shade

Cut panel
check 100%

Knotch mark
Shape
T.M.B same or not
Spot, reject, pin
hole etc.

Print &
EBM check
Ok cut goods
pass to sewing

Printing Section

72

Defect part pass

to back process

Fig-25: Printing Section

Factors Affecting Cost of Printing:

Type of printing
Size of printing
Number of color of printing
Any grading of size of printing from size to size
Any restriction/selection of use of dyes and chemicals
Lab test requirement
Wash sustainability
Tolerance in placement of print art-work
Tolerance in color shade variation
Place of printing

Layout of printing section:

Input rack
Printing table-1

Exit

Office
room

Exit

Printing table-2

Qualit
y

Camer
a room

Color
room
Printing table-3

73

Curing
machine

Male
toilet
Female
toilet

Sampl
e table
Heat
set

North

East

West

South

SEWING SECTION
Sewing:
This is the main assembly stage of the production process, where sewers stitch fabric pieces
together, and a garment is assembled. Computerized sewing machines (costly) can be
programmed to sew a specific number of stitches to perform a standard operation, such as setting
a zipper or sewing a collar.

74

Fig-26:

Some
Photo of Sewing Section

Working Procedure of Sewing Department:

1. Garments Analysis

Planning

2. Target setup for production (on the basis of ship schedule)

3. Machine layout
4. Operator layout
5. Quality control of product
1. Line Balancing

Layout

2. Line setup (advance or normal)

3. Process distribution
1. Parts Received from cutting dept.

Sewing

2. Parts storing/racking
3. Parts distribution to the operator and helper
4. Position mark to components where required

75

5. Parts making (individual)

6. Inline Quality Checking/auditing
7. Parts assembling
8. Inline quality audit.
9. Output counting & checked with the target
10. End line quality audit
Preparation for
Finishing
1. Thread Trimming

Department

2. Quality Inspection
3. Garment measuring

Name of the machines used in sewing section are:

Single needle lock stitch machine

Double needle lock stitch machine
Single needle chain stitch machine
Double needle chain stitch machine
4 thread Over lock machine
5 thread Over lock machine
Flat lock machine
Bar tack machine
Button hole machine
Button attaching machine
Rib cutting machine
Kansai machine

76

Some Sewing Machine Photo

Fig-27: Some Sewing Section Machine

77

Activities of sewing section:

Attend pre-production meeting

Receive sample
Receive work sheet
Receive Approved swatch
Operation Break-down
Machine layout
Receive cut Fabric from cutting section by using Receiving Register
Receive Sewing pattern from pattern maker
Marking at necessary parts
Input
First production approved by Q.C. department
Look after production
Cycle check
Line Balancing
Target setting
Co-operative with Q.C. Department
Hand over complete Garments to finishing section through end line Q.C. Inspector
Show hourly production on production board
Prepare every day input and production statement
Maintain discipline and working environs

Tools and equipment of sewing section:

Rack for cut fabric keeping (for every line)

Desk for trims keeping(with lock for every line)
Supporting table for bigger components operation (as per required)
Desk (one for every operator)first aid-box(at every corner of the factory)
Fire extinguisher(at every corner of the factory)
78

Hammer
Big scissors
Hand needles
Bodkin
Tailors chalk
Pencil
Small scissor.

Picture of Some Stitch

Fig:Over lock stitch

Fig: Flat lock stitch

Fig:Botton hole

Fig: Bar tack stitch

79

Fig:Zig-Zag Stitch

Fig:Gathering Stitch

Fig-28: Picture of Some Stitch

Button attachment flow chart

Sewing output before
button attach

Quality table

Production
coordinator(PC)

Mark table

Check the
garments as per
buyer
requirement
Size wise separate
the garments
Marking by correct
pattern

Attach on female
part

Attach on the male

pat

Quality table

80

Mark following by
male part
Checking :
1) Button position
2) Button stitch
3) Button line
4) Broken button
5) Shade ,etc.

Q.C passed garment

deliver to finishing

Layout of sewing section (2nd floor):

I.T

M.D
Stair
Quality check table

Table
Line-4

Exit

Line-3

Line-2

4A

Inpu
t

4B

81

Quality check
Line-1

Inpu
t

Inpu
t
Inpu
t
Input rack

Input rack

Input rack

Input rack
Toilet

Sewing machine

Line no:01
Style Name: Basic polo shirt
Production target: 120 pieces
No of machine: 39
Lock stitch: 24
Over lock: 09
Flat lock: 04
Button attaching: 01
Button holing: 01
No of operator: 39
No of helper: 33

Operation breakdown for Basic polo shirt

Back part and front part matching
Shoulder Joint
Shoulder Top stitch
Level Making
Placket Making

82

Level Tuck
Placket Match to body
Placket Joint
Placket Top stitch
Nose Tuck in placket

Collar and Cuff making

Cuff Joint
Sleeve Joint
Collar Tuck
Neck Tape joint
Placket top stitch(upper)
Placket top stitch(lower)
Placket pattern top stitch
Placket box making
Neck top stitch
Arm hole top stitch

83

Body hem
Side seam
Side vent tuck
Side vent top stitch

Chap tuck
Button hole
Button attaching
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table

Line no: 02
Style Name: Trouser
No of machine: 22
Lock stitch: 10
Over lock: 10
Flat lock: 02
No of operator: 22
No of helper: 18

Operation breakdown for Trouser

Match front and back part
Front rise and back rise joint

84

Inseam
Cuff make
Cuff joint

Elastic cutting
Making belt
Belt servicing
Belt joint
Attaching level
Inseam tuck
Belt top stitch
Cuff top stitch
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table

Line no: 03

85

Style Name: Labrea henly

No of machine: 34

Lock stitch: 14
Over lock: 08
Flat lock: 10
Button attaching: 01
Button holing: 01

No of operator: 34
No of helper: 26

Fig-29: Labrea Henley

Operation breakdown for Labrea Henly

Match back and front part
Shoulder joint
Iron body
Placket make
Placket joint
Placket lower part joint
Placket tuck
Placket top stitch (zigzag)
Placket chain stitch(other side)
Placket inner tuck

86

Placket box
Neck tuck
Neck joint
Neck top stitch
Rib false tuck
Sleeve and body match
Sleeve joint
Arm hole top stitch
Cuff joint
Cuff top stitch
Side seam
Khara tuck
Chap tuck
Care level make
Care level tuck
Side top stitch(zigzag)
Side top stitch (chain stitch)
Side zigzag false tuck
87

Hanger loop tuck

Body hem
Hem zigzag stitch
Button hole mark
Button hole
Button attaching mark
Button attach
Thread trimming

Sent to quality check table

Line no: 4A
Style Name: Olga Top
No of machine: 24
Lock stitch: 09
Over lock: 11
Flat lock: 04
No of operator: 24
No of helper: 30

Operation breakdown for Olga Top

Marking middle point on the front part and make cross
mark (X)
Tuck on the end of cross mark according to the
measurement
Match back part with raglan

88

Joint back part and raglan

Fig-30: Olga Top

Match front part and back part

Joint front and back part
Rib tuck(Neck)
Neck joint
Found middle point on back part and attach level
Side seam
Cuff making
Joint cuff with body
Fig-30: Olga Top Sewing

Make bottom
Bottom mark for side seam matching
Bottom joint
Bottom top stitch
Attaching hanger loop
Hanger loop top stitch
Neck top stitch
Cuff top stitch
89

Fig-30: QC in Olga top

Remove extra thread from cross mark

Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table

Line no: 4B
Style Name: Olga Bottom
No of machine: 12
Lock stitch: 04
Over lock: 06
Flat lock: 02
No of operator: 12
No of helper: 03

Operation breakdown for Olga Bottom

Match front and back part
Front and back rise joint
Inseam
Cut elastic according to the measurement
Tuck elastic
Waist belt fabric tuck with elastic
Waist belt servicing
Waist belt joint with body
Cuff making
Line
no.
1

Style

1st

2nd

3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

Basic
Polo
Shirt

/100

110/210

120/330

120/45
0

120/57
0

130/700

130/830

120/950

90

Trouser

/80

80/160

90/250

Labrea
Henley
Olga
Top
Olga
Bottom

/100

110/210

120/330

/40

50/90

/40

50/90

4A
4B

100/45
0
130/59
0
70/300

110/560

120/680

140/820

140/730

140/870

150/1020

70/160

100/35
0
130/46
0
70/230

80/380

80/460

90/550

60/150

60/210

60/270

70/340

80/420

80/500

Joint cuff with body

Level attaching
Fig-31: Olga Bottom

Cuff top stitch

Waist belt top stitch
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table

Table-32: Hourly production board for 2nd floor

Garment washing
Garment washing is normally done after stitching. According to fashion trend and customer
demand buyers ask for garment washing. For the washing apparel buyers mention exactly what
types of washing they need for the order.
The primary objects of garment washing is
1) To remove starch that applied during fabric manufacturing.
2) To soften the garment hand feel and improve bulkiness
3) To remove dirt, spots, oil stains that accumulate to garment at the garment manufacturing
processes.
4) To remove chemicals used during printing process and embroidery process.
To fulfill customer demand
1) Washed clothes can be worn directly after purchasing

91

2) To give faded look or any other color tinted look to the garment.
3) To stabilize garment shrinkage and dimensional instability.

Fig-32: Washing Machine

Tumble drying
Tumble dryers have larger drums than washing machines, because the larger the drum, the better
the efficiency of hot air flow through the machine resulting in faster drying times. Allowing
fabrics plenty of room to tumble also means less creasing. The best quality machines have long
lasting stainless steel drums, and provide a smooth finish so fabrics don't catch.
Most machines have two heat settings, for cottons or synthetics. There are a few with three
settings, with the third usually for delicates. They also have a timer or sensor to control the
length of the drying cycle. During the last ten minutes or so of the cycle, the heating element is
turned off and the fabrics tumble in cooling air back to ambient room temperature. This reduces
the effect of static and 'fibre shock', which causes creasing. Some machines have a cool air
setting which can be used to air fabrics stored away for some time.
Operating principle is based on a heated air circulation system. The air flow is
conveyed through the garments, which are constantly kept in movement inside the
perforated drum.
The air is then sucked through filter box and finally expelled out of the machine.

92

 The air heating is carried by stainless steel steam batteries.

Air temperature and treating time are managed by control panel.

Fig-33: Tumble Dryer Machine

Garments Finishing Section

Finishing is a series of processing operations applied to a textile material to improve its
appearance, handle and functional properties.

93

Fig-34: Some Photo of Garments Finishing

Section

Layout of garment finishing section:

Stair

Toilet

Input table

Exit
Wash room

Spot
removing
Zone
Unit- 6
Unit-1

Unit-2

Unit-3

Unit-4

Unit-5

Unit-6
Office

Cartoning
zone

Exit

Offic
e

Exit

West
Smoke detector

94

First aid box

North

South

East

Process flow chart of garment finishing section:

Receive garments from sewing section

Thread sucking
Pressing/Ironing

Primary checking
Repair/Alternati
on

Spot remove

Measurement checking

Getup/final checking
Repair/Alternation

Tagging

Metal detection

95

Remove country sticker

Folding

Poly

Assorting

Packing to box
Pre-final

If fail, back to re-check

Inspection of ready to ship goods

Dispatch shipment

Object of Finishing:

To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.

To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility.

To give desirable qualities to the fabric like1. Luster

2. Drape
3. Dimensional stability
4. Crease recovery
5. Softness
6. Soil repellence

Work flow in the Finishing Room:

As mentioned earlier, workflow in the Finishing Department is shown here for reference:

96

Eliminate micro-dust and residual thread from the garment;

Press/iron garments as specified by buyer or as per requirements;
Fold the garments as required by customer;
Fix necessary tickets (Price tickets) or tags (hang tags),etc to the garments at this
stage;
Insert garments into poly bags;
Divide garments as per size and color (assortment);
Package garments inside the cartons.

Characteristics of Well Finished Garments:

Good fitting is achieved by doing the work with care, patience and practice. A well-fitted
garment feels comfortable, adjusts naturally to the activities of the wearer, is becoming in line
and amount of ease and consistent with current fashions.

Initial Production Check:

This is carried out when the production of the total quantity of an order or partial delivery is
completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a percentage of the garments will be
inspected, this percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection
may be applied or another inspection system designed by the buyer.

AQL (Acceptable Quality Level):

Ascertain portion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process. If the percentage
doesnt exceed a certain limit it will be economical to allow the defective to go through instead
of screening the entire lot. This limit is called AQL.
The most commonly used AQL is a major 2.5 and minor 4.0 . The AQL random sampling
inspection is derived from the mathematical theory of probability. Some defectives are
considered acceptable. AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection condition are required for
expensive items like, up market or Boutiques.
Table-33: AQL normal inspection plan
Total Order
Quantity

Sample
Quantity

1%

1.5%

2.5%

6.5%

4.0%

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

90-150

20

151-280

32

281-500

50

501-1200

80

10

11

1201-3200

125

10

11

14

15

97

3201-10000

200

10

11

14

15

10001-35000

315

10

11

14

15

21

22

35001 >

500

10

11

14

15

21

22

21

The General Rules of Spot Removing:

The longer a stain remains, the tougher it is to remove.
Always treat a stain before laundering.
Blot gently never rub; and don't ever blot with hot water.
Lipstick Stain Removing:
Blot with a baby wipe or a washcloth moistened
with rubbing alcohol.
Blood Stain Removing:
If it's fresh, blot repeatedly with cold water, an ice
cube, or club soda; if it's dried, use a 3 percent
hydrogen-peroxide solution.
Oil Stain Removing:

Fig-34: Spot removing

Cover with talc or baby powder immediately and allow it to sit at least a half hour. Then brush it
off, apply a stain remover (such as Spray n' Wash), and wash in the hottest water the fabric can
stand.
Ink Stain Removing: On cotton, apply rubbing alcohol to the spot, then wash. On polyester,
spray liberally with hair spray and pat with a clean, dry cloth. Then wash.
Red wine Stain Removing: Douse with salt, dunk in cold water, blot until the stain disappears,
and wash as soon as possible.

98

22

Fig-34: Chemical & equipment to use for spot removing

Ironing:
Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. The heating is
commonly done to a temperature of 180220 Celsius, depending on the fabric. Ironing works
by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material.
While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold
their new shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen
the intermolecular bonds.

Fig-35:

Ironing

Basic Ironing Symbols:

Do not iron
Cool iron (110)
Medium iron (150)
Hot iron (200)

Garment Inspection :
The inspections are done to control the quality is means by examining the products without the
products any instruments. To examine the fabric, sewing, button, thread, zipper, garments
measurements and so on according to specification or desired standard is called inspection. There
are so many facilities for inspection in every section of garments industries. The aim of
inspection is to reduce the time and cost by identifying the faults or defects in every step of
garments making.

99

Fig-36: Garment Inspection

Necessity of Inspection:
All the retailers want to buy high quality products from manufacturers, to sell the product to their
customers. The quality of the garments may vary depends on the price ranges. So we need to
follow various methods of inspection techniques, depends on the customers wants

Quality Check Procedure (How to check garments)

Check all garments according to proper check system.

All the garments inside & outside check.
Oil spot, dirty, color spot not acceptable.
All children order neck extended measurement must be check.
Round check the garments.
Check stitch tension (looms/teight) needle cut, needle damage etc.
Check shadding: sleeve+body,rib+body,back+front.
Both sleeve & both shoulder & both sleeve opening must be even.
Check care label & size label properly.
Check the percentage of care label of grey color garments.
Check sleeve join stitch,tension, needle cut etc.
Check sleeve cuff tension,shade etc.
Check side seam stitch.
Check bottom stitch.
Check main label
Check placket+button,button hole,button stitch.
Check embroidery,print,hole,color,design,pocket.
Check side seam stitch,tension,needle cut etc.
Check bottom (inside/outside) ,broken stitch.
Check side slit,care label.
Check collar,neck tape,label.

100

Fig37:

Measurement Check

Fig-37: Get-up Check

Inspection Procedure of Garments are Described Below

Confirmation of Quantity:
First step of garment inspection start with confirmation of Quantity with the vendors packing list
by counting all Pecs of each box. If Qty is not matching to the packing list and written in the box
then this discrepancy is informed to the vendor.

Confirmation of Accessories:
Next step is the confirmation of accessories, here we confirm brand tags, demerit tags, Price tags,
or other tags, wash care labels, woven labels, or other labels and accessories as required by the
buyer.

Size Spec inspection:

After confirmation of accessories all pieces are checked as per size spec based on the instruction
sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any measurement problem is noticed then we check the
original sample and inform the buyer same time.

In Side Inspection:
At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is no fabric defect, poor
stitching, and stains etc in the garment.

Out Side Inspection:

At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no color variation, kniting
defect, fabric defect, printing defect, holes, poor stitching, bad smell , dying defect and stains etc
in the garments.

Final Inspection:
Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process, here garment is rechecked
to confirm that inspection is done properly without missing any checking step if any defect is
noticed we put it into rejection bin or send it for repay.

Packing:
All Grade-A goods are put back into poly bags as per the original packaging and then they are
send for needle inspection.

Needle Detector Machine

101

Fig-38: Needle detector machine

Machine checking:
For machine checking NTL used 9-point system.
Inside this card a 1.2mm ferrous metal sample is placed for metal checking.

Fig-38: Checking Instrument

Process flow chart of metal free zone

Machine Cleaning

Machine Calibration (machine checked by 9-point system, every after 2 hours)

Goods Checking

For Japan Country

For other country (1 way

check)
102

Adult 1+4 (2 way check)

Children (4 way check)

Take action according to H & M
guideline

Not OK body keep in a fixed box

OK body passes for folding

Keep the data in a data bank

Input the data in a data bank

Metal Free Process For Japan:

2Way & 4 Way checking system

Front side vertical

Front side horizontal
Back side vertical
Back side horizontal

Folding:
Although folding remains largely a manual task.

103

Fig-39:

Folding

Packaging
Cartoning

&

After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise,
bundled and packed in the carton. The carton is marked with important information in printed
form which is seen from outside the carton easily.
Table-34: Measurement of some carton are given below:
For H & M
Object

Length

Width

Height

Polo Shirt

54

35

20/40

Hanger item

58

40

40

Small Quantity

29

20

20

General

58

26

40

Object

Length

Width

Height

General

56

36

41

For BANEX

104

Fig-40: Cartoning

Assortment:

105

Buyers generally place order of garments in certain assortment of color and sizes. The production
of such colors and sizes is called assortment.
There are 4 types of assortment:
1) Solid size and solid color (the order
comprises one size & one color)
2) Solid size & assorted color (the order
comprises one size & different colors)
3) Assortment sizes & assorted color
(the order has only one color but
different sizes)
4) Assorted sizes & assorted color
(different sizes & different colors in the
order)
Generally most of the order comes in
assorted sizes & assorted colors.
Fig-41:
Assortment

Dispatch/Finished Carton Zone:

The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the finished carton zone,
where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.

106

Fig-42: Finished Carton Zone

Chapter Six

Work Study

107

Work Study:
Work study is the analysis of the operations required to produce a style. Effective work study
requires both methods analysis and work measurement. Methods are studied, analyzed, and the
elements of the method measured in terms of time consumed.

Objectives of Work Study:

- Explain mechanization and automation relative to general- and special-purpose machines
- Examine the basic components of sewing machines and work aids
- discuss the effect of equipment on product quality and performance.

Work Study can be best expressed in the following manner:

1. Method Study:
Record to Compare
Seek best method
2. Work Measurement:
Time Study
Synthetics
Work Measurement Techniques are:
1) Time Study
2) Judgment or past experience of the engineer / production manager
3) Predetermined Time systems
4) Standard Data
5) Operator Reporting
6) Work Sampling

108

1.) Time Study

Time study is a systematic technique for determining the amount of time required for a qualified,
well trained person, working at a normal pace to perform a specific operation.
2.) Pre-determined Motion Time Systems (PMTS)
Production Standards are established for new styles before the style goes into production The
basis is historical data for hundreds of replications of basic motions and elemental times that
have been averaged and converted to standard times for a specific motion.
3.) Judgment
Time Study may be, time consuming and costly
For small orders a style may not be in production long enough for Time Study
This can provide only approximate values

4.) Standard Data (Garment Synthetics)

Standard data may be developed for:
Operations,
Components,
Styles, and
Used for preliminary costing and design decisions as well as cost estimating.
5.) Operator Reporting
Relates to the volume completed during the time spent. There are no specified methods or output
expectation. The amount of work completed in a specific time frame is often inconsistent and
may be unreliable.
6.) Work Sampling
It is a work measurement method that is not concerned with how fast a unit is completed but
rather which machines are used and activities pursued the job over an established period of time.
Types of Allowance:
Different types of allowance are given bellow Relaxation Allowance
Contingency Allowance
Machine Delay Allowance
Style Change Allowance
Special Allowance
Line Capacity Study
Date
Sheet
25.8.14
#S/L

Process Name

Buyer

Style

Line no.

H&M

Kitt
Trouser
No. of
pcs

07

Operators Machine
ID

109

Total
time

Allow- Capacity
ance

21746

Over lock

05

2.25

20%

104pc/hr

2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

Back & front rise

joint+label attach
Inseam
Crotch point tuck
Waist Belt joint
Belt top stitch
Leg hem joint
Inseam
Elastic tuck
Elastic joint
Waist belt tuck

6597
11094
31503
25551
29196
8189
13138
29637
7633

Over lock
Lock stitch
Over lock
Flat lock
Flat lock
Over lock
Lock stitch
Over lock
Lock stitch

05
05
05
05
05
05
05
05
05

5.00
0.45
2.25
2.55
2.40
4.16
1.05
2.50
2.50

20%
20%
20%
20%
20%
20%
20%
20%
20%

50pc/hr
333pc/hr
104pc/hr
85pc/hr
93pc/hr
58pc/hr
240pc/hr
88pc/hr
88pc/hr

11
12
13

Waist belt tuck

Leg hem joint
Belt top stitch

821
30633
5300

Lock stitch
Flat lock
Flat lock

05
05
05

2.12
2.40
1.45

20%
20%
20%

113pc/hr
93pc/hr
142pc/hr

14

Back & front rise

joint+label attach

18221

Over lock

05

3.10

20%

80pc/hr

A time study work sheet that we have done during our internship
Table-35: Calculation of capacity of an operator
Standard minute value (SMV) = Total minute 60 Total second No.of pieces 60
Allowance
= (260) + 25 5 60 + 20%
= 120 + 25 5 60 + 20%
= 145 5 60 + 20%
= 29 60 + 20%
= 0.48 + 20%
= 0.48 + 0.096
= 0.576
Capacity = 60 SMV
= 60 0.576
= 104 pcs

Total textile process at a glance

110

Fig-43: Total textile process at a glance

For cotton fabric total textile process is briefly described below:

By spinning process cotton fibre is formed into yarn. Then the yarn is sized by using different
types of sizing chemicals and methods. By using sized yarn knitted fabric is made by knitting
machine. Knitted grey fabric is then pre treated and then the fabric is dyed and printed as per
requirement of the buyer. From the colored fabric garment goods are made through the different
process. Finished garment is then sent to retail store. From the retail store consumer get their
fashionable garment that they want to buy.

111

Chapter Seven
Merchandising
& Costing

Merchandising:
Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments. The
term merchandising means simply to buy & sell commodities for a product. Merchandising is the
planning, developing & presenting product lines for identified target markets with regards to
pricing, assortment, styling & timing. It is a central coordination point for the product line. The
product line is the primary responsibility of merchandising.

Process flow chart of Merchandising

112

Receive product package form buyer

Sample development

Price negotiation

Order confirmation and receive order sheet.

Sourcing low good quality right time

Material collection and receive it in factory

Check and listing

Swart card making and approval

Pre production meeting

Daily collect daily production report and daily quality report

Arrange final inspection

Shipment

Costing:
After receiving an enquiry from the buyer, the merchandiser has to do the costing for the product
which is mentioned in the enquiry. Costing means to calculate the total investment for producing
a product and how much profit will come from thats investment. It is most important to
calculate the processing cost before starting production. Costing is the process of estimating the
tentative price of a product. For knit garments costing a merchandiser needs to have clear
conception of the raw materials price and CM calculation of knit garments.
Costing of a product includes different factor. They are as follow:

Yarn cost
Knitting cost
Dyes and chemical cost
Cost of dyeing
Cost of finishing
Cost of cutting, sewing and accessories
Cost of printing(If needed)
Labor cost (Direct or indirect)
Office and Administrative cost
Factory cost
Sales and carrying cost
Other cost

113

 Profit etc.

Trims and Accessories

To fulfill the design objectives we need different kind of materials. Fabrics are the main material,
which used for garment manufacturing. We need other materials also, which make the garments
aesthetic, functional and commercially required. Usually other than fabrics these materials used
for making garments are called trims and accessories.

114

Trims:
The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims. On the other hand
materials are directly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads,
buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc.(Interlining is used as shape forming /
preserving materials.)

Accessories:
The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than
fabrics and trims, are called Accessories.

Fig-44: Some Trims & Accessories

Chapter Eight

115

Quality Assurance System

Quality Assurance System

Quality assurance
Quality assurance (QA) refers to the planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality
system so that quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled. It is the systematic
measurement, comparison with a standard, monitoring of processes and an associated feedback
loop that confers error prevention. This can be contrasted with quality control, which is focused
on process outputs.

Objective of quality control:

Research
Selection of raw material
Process control
Process development
Product testing
Specification check

116

Dimensions of Quality:

QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM OF KNITTING DIVISION

INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM:
After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by
the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey
fabric is described here.
SOME POINTS ARE NEEDED TO MAINTAIN FOR HIGH QUALITY FABRIC:
1) Brought good quality yarn.
2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.
LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL:
The list of equipments to assure quality:1) Inspection m/c.
2) Electronic balance

117

3) GSM cutter.
4) Measuring tape.
5) Scissors.
6) Indication sticker.

QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE

Body & rib inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the
inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like
thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc are
recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system.
Collar & cuff inspection:
Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in
collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem
etc properly counted and recorded.

QUALITY STANDARD:
NTL maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point system
is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are
recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed
by inspection at NTL.

Table-36: 4 point inspection system

Length of defect

Penalty point allocated

Up to 3

1 point

3-6

2 point

6-9

3 point

Over 9

4 point

Holes (1 or less)

2 point

118

Holes (over 1)

4 point

Example:
6 defect upto 3

61 =6 point

5 defect upto 3-6

5 2 =10 point

2 defect upto 6-9

23=6 point

1 defect over 9

14=4 point

1 hole over 1

14=4 point
Total point=30 point

Calculation:
Point/100 yard square

total point scoredroll 36

100
total yards inspected fabric width

30 36
100
130 45

=18.4defect point/ 100 yard square

GREY FABRIC INSPECTION

KNITTED FABRIC INSPECTION AND GRADING

BASED ON THE FORTY POINTS SYSTEM

The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality Control
in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary
considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
The grading has two primary functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to standard
qualities based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply information as to the
qualities actually being produced.

119

The Knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of points
for defects as follows.
The First quality level

40 points per 100 Linear Yards.

The Second quality level

(40 80) points per 100 Linear Yards.

The Third quality level

80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards.

Fig-45: Fabric Inspection

Quality Management system:

Assurance
Quality
On Line
Off

Off line

Table inspection:
To maintaining good quality NTL make a inspection report from ''sewing line finish garment'';
1. Date/hourly production quantity, inspected quantity, rejected quantity & pass quantity
2. Identify defective & rectified quantity

120

Flow diagram of Off-line quality control for each production:

Inspection fabric in the inspection machine

Fabric lot no.

Buyers order No check

Style No. check

Product quality check according to buyers requirement

Inspection and testing of the produced garments

Flow diagram of On-line quality control:

Raw material inspection

Pattern making inspection

Marker making inspection

Cutting inspection

Sewing inspection

Pressing and finishing inspection

Packing and cartooning inspection

In process QC in cutting section:

Shade check with buyers approval swatch

121


Check GSM

Running shade check

Roll wise shade check

Batch to batch shade check

Shrinkage test

Marker check

Cutting panel check

Pattern check

Shape check of different parts

Measurement check

Check number of different parts in bundle

Fig-46: QC in cutting section

In process QC in sewing section:

Seam joint of two parts

Seam damage

Slipped stitch

Staggered stitch

Unbalance stitch

Stitch density

Needle, lopper thread breakage

Fabric distortion

Fig-46: QC in Sewing section

Fabric damage through the stitch line

122

Label attaching place

Check label

Check oil mark

Shading of different garment parts

In process QC in finishing section:
Getup check

Measurement check

Final garments inspection

Ratio wise packing inspection

Fig-47: Quality check in garment finishing section

123

Chapter Nine

Maintenance

Maintenance

124

Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free.
Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the
customers is sustained.
Objectives of Maintenance:
To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working condition.
To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer.
To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thus to have control over the
production program.
To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production
To improve productivity of existing machines and to avoid sinking of additional capital
To reduce the maintenance cost as far as possible thereby leading to reduction in factory
overhead
To prolong the useful life of the factory plant and machinery by retaining their acceptable
level of accuracy of performance.

Maintenance of Machinery:
Maintenance of machinery is very essential mechanical effort for achieving smooth running
of different machines. Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such
a way that trouble free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific
product quality required by the customers is sustained. On time maintenance increase m/c
lifetime & ensures trouble free services.
The NTL. is followed below this maintenanceMaintenance

Routine Maintenance

Mechanical Maintenance

Break Down Maintenance

Electrical Maintenance

Mechanical Maintenance

125

Electrical Maintenance

Break down Maintenance:

Break down maintenance is done instantly when problem arises in machine. In this case, repairs are
made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its normal functions.

Routine Maintenance:
After a particular little the machines are cleaned &reordered, that is routine or schedule
maintenance. NTL does it once in a month. Schedule maintenance varies, time in time &
also depends on situation according to types of machines, because maintenance is directly
related to production.

126

Table-37: Maintenance Tools and Equipments:

Sl. No.

Maintenance tools/equipments

Functions

1.

Adjustable wrench

Used for setting nut & bolts

2.

Pipe Spanner

For pipe fitting

3.

Spanner

Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting

4.

Socket spanner

Handle system for nut & bolt fitting

5.

Hammer

To apply load where required

6.

Screw driver

To release any screw

7.

Punch

Used to fit any worn out shaft

8.

Lock opener

To open the clip of bearing

9.

Hack saw

To cut any metallic thing

10.

Outside calipers

To measure outside dia

11.

Inside calipers

To measure inside dia

12.

Slide calipers

To measure very small dia

13.

Vernier scale

To measure very small dia

14.

Chain ton

To lift heavy load

15.

Welding machine

To join metallic parts

16.

Grinding machine

To make the smooth fabrics

17.

Tester

To test electric circuit

18.

Pliers

To grip anything & cut anything

19.

Avometer/Voltmeter

To measure voltage

20.

Steel tape

To measure length, width & height

21.
22.

Chisel
File

To cut any metal

To smooth the rough surface

127

Chapter Ten

Utility

128

Utility
NTL is a big project. So, it has adequate utility services. Here the following utility services are
available-

WTP
ETP
Electricity
Steam
Gas
Compress air

Water Treatment Plant:

Activated Carbon Filter Unit
Raw Water Tank

Softener Unit

Multigrade Filter Unit

The plant processes 80000 litre per hour. The source of water is the surface water. By using
various pump and pipe arrangement surface water is carrying to the raw water tank. Then sodium
hypochlorite (NaoCl) is added directly into water tank for removing Fe. NaoCl is used as one
third of total raw water in tank. After that water is passing through multigrade filter unit for
filtering dirt, Then passing through carbon filter unit for removing odour. Now raw water is
entered into the water softening unit composed of permutit, artificial zeolite. After sometimes
permutit is lost its softening capacity. For this NaCl is used for renewing permutit efficiency. For
renewing per kg of permutit NaCl is used 150 gm. It takes 45 minutes to renew the resin.Ph of
the water should keep 8.

129

Fig-48: Water Treatment Plant (WTP)

Table-38: Electricity
Gas Generator:
Gas
Generato
r
01

Brand
Name

Model No

Capacity

Manufacturing
Year

Origin

WAUKESH
A

VHP 5904
GSID

2006

USA

02

WAUKESH
A

VHP 5904
LTD

900KW
1125KVA
1565AMP
900KW
1125KVA
1565AMP

2008

USA

Diesel Generator:
Diesel Generator
01

Brand Name
Vibro Power

02

Petbow

03

Perkins

Capacity
600KW
750KVA
1083AMP
287KW
359KVA
520AMP
208KW
255KVA
360AMP

Origin
Singapore
USA
Denmark

REB(Rural Electrification Board): 600 KW

750 KVA
1080 AMP

Fig-49: Gas Generator

Fig-49: Diesel Generator

130

Table-39: Boilers specification

Boile
r

Brand
Name

Type

Capacit
y

01

COCHRAN

7.71 ton
per hour

02

OMNICAL

Fire
tube
Boiler,
Gas
burner
Fire
tube
Boiler,
Gas
burner

NO.
01
02

Brand
Name
CompAir
Atlas
Copco

5 ton per 10Bar-g

hour

Capacity
1000 L
1000 L

Max.
Allowab
le
Pressur
e
11 Bar-g

Allowable
Pressure
11 Bar
14.3 Bar

Table-40: Compressed Air specification

131

Max.
Alllow
able
Tempe
rature
1880c

Max.
Heat
Output

4833 KW 2005

England

1830c

3.25 MW

Germany

Allowable
Temperature
500c
500c

Manufa
cturing
Year

2001

Manufacturing
Year
2005
2001

Origin

Origin
England
South
Korea

Fig-50: Boiler

Fig-50: Air Compressor

ETP(Effluent treatment plant)

Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) is essential to purify the waste water which is come from
different types of manufacturing industry like textile. Different environment saving organizations
are trying to protect the environment from the harmful effect of the effluent. Different waste
water has different characteristics which pollute the water. In Niagara textile water from dyeing
machine is treated.
Process flow chart of effluent treatment of Niagara textile is given below:
Water from dyeing section
Primary Filtration
Cooling and Mixing
Neutralization(by acid or alkali)
Chemical Co-agulation
Setting and separation of sludge
Pressure Filtration
Discharge

132

Fig-51: Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)

Chapter Eleven

Inventory
133

Inventory
Inventory is stock or store of good. Inventory management is a vital part for any factory because
smooth production as well as cost of storage depends on it.
SCOPE OF INVENTORY CONTROL:
-

Raw materials inventories

In process inventories
Finished goods inventories
Maintenance, repair and operational inventories
Miscellaneous inventories

FUNCTION OF INVENTORY:
-

To smooth production requirement

To meet anticipate demand
To protect against stock outs
To take advantages of order cycles
To take advantages of quality discounts.

PROCUREMENT SYSTEM:
-

Dyes (mostly used like Dyechufix, Remazol, Levafix dyes) and chemicals (regular items
like Sequestering agent, Anti creasing agent, Caustic, Stabilizer etc.) are imported from
CHINA, GERMANY & INDIA.
Some dyes (from Clarient) and chemicals (from BASF) are collected by direct purchase
through indent.
Crystal salt and Soda ash is purchase from local distributor.

134

INVENTORY STORE SYSTEM FOR RAW MATERIAL:

In NTL, there are different inventory systems
for different raw materials.

Grey Fabric Store:

All the grey fabrics are stored in the
fabric store near the batch section. Different
types of fabric are listed in the sheet according
to fabric types, quantity and consumers
requirement.

Fig-52: Grey Fabric Store

Dyes and Chemicals store:

There is a different store for dyes and chemicals. Varies types of dyes and chemicals are stored
here according to dyes and chemicals companies. Different types of dyes and chemicals are listed
in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes and chemicals are also included. Every day the
sheet is updated and a copy of this sheet is supplied to the dyeing manager, dye house and lab
section.

Fig-53: Dyes Store

Finished goods store:

135

In NTL supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So, dyed finished fabrics are
stored for short time in the finishing section. All the delivered fabrics are noted on the tally khata
according to the lot no, quantity, fabrics diameter, buyer's name, color & considering other
technical parameters.

Fig-54: Finished goods store

Spares part store:

In NTL required amount of spares of different machines are stored in the mechanical store room.
All the spares are listed in a sheet which is controlled by the mechanical & maintenance
personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room according to there size, quantity &
requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the small spare parts.

Fig-55: Spares part store

Table-41: STORE CAPACITY:

Items
Dyes
Chemicals
Yarn storage

Amount
7-8 tons
30-35 tons
300 tons

136

Grey fabric
Finished fabric

120 tons
200 tons

FREQUENCY OF INVENTORY CONTROL:

-

Daily inventory control

Monthly inventory control
Yearly inventory control

RE-ORDER POINT:
The re-order point is stated in terms of level of inventory at which an order should be placed for
replenishing the current stock of inventory. Re order quantity depends on the lead time of the
product with some additional safety period. It also depends on the store capacity of factory. For
example if the lead time of a product is two month then normally re ordering quantity may be for
two and half months.
REMARKS:
NTL has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods, etc. There is not enough space to
store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store area. In NTL the store for inventory
control is satisfactory. Sometimes, they fluctuate from ideal process otherwise they are okay.

Chapter Twelve
Recommendation & Conclusion

137

Recommendations
Some of recommendation to author of the NTL is mentioned in the below:

Every section required Technical person.

Proper maintenance is required.
To observed each operator, because they do not maintain accurate guide line during
machine operation and recipe sheet.

Physical and dyeing lab space is very small, so labs should be required large space.
Different training courses should be arranged for the up lifting and improving the quality
of work for employees.

Conclusion
The NTL is one of the leading company in Bangladesh. The system, the management style, the
policies & decentralized decision making environment is really remarkable. This report is
basically an attempt to identify the areas which need to be improved.
In this time of technology, the Information is the key to success in the business. This means
that the successful businessman will be who will have the right information at the right time.
This comment leads to the conclusion that the information Sharing Process should really be
improved.

138

The overall analysis is indicating that the companys progress has mainly attained through
loyalty of employees. The effectiveness of its management, their motivation to take advantage of
opportunities and face challenges of changing financial picture, this all contributes to the very
much improved and sound position of company. This is really appreciable for the attachment and
hard work of all the employees of the company.
I am very much satisfied to NTL for giving a chance of Internship to gather practical knowledge
about textile and for good collaboration. This training program will be helped us every time.

139