Assignment name :

Marker Planning

Coarse title

Apparel Manufacturing Technology

Prepared by

Mohammad Billal Hossain

Id No.10112107028
Department of Textile Engineering.
Bangladesh University of Business & technology
BUBT

Marker Utilization
Marker:
A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style that are
to be cut from in one spread.
Marker Making:
Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes. The process of arranging pattern pieces in the most efficient
manner requires skill, time and concentration. Markers may be made by manually tracing master
patterns
Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric
and distribution of sizes .In manual marker making to make an efficient marker one need time, skill
and concentration. Now-a-day Marker making is mostly done by CAD systems which give accuracy,
increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers.
Marker efficiency:
Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used in a garment and area of total marker.It
is important that when a marker is made it does not create an issue of fabric waste. The goal is to
utilize as much of the fabric as possible.

How to calculate Marker Efficiency

Calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below with formula.
Formula-1
efficiency% =

Area of marker used for garments

100
Area of total marker

Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD marker, CAD system automatically calculates
total area of garment pattern pieces placed in a marker. So you get area of marker that is consumed
by garments from CAD system.
Total Marker Area: To calculate total marker area simply multiply marker length by marker width.
In manual marker it is difficult to measure surface area of garments patterns in a marker. You can use
a mechanical device, Planimeter, to calculate the surface area of pattern pieces from outlines of the
pattern pieces.
Another method can be practiced to calculate marker efficiency when you dont have CAD system or
Perimeter. Calculate ratio of weight of fabric consumed by pattern pieces and total weight fabric
under total marker area. So a separate formula is used to find marker efficiency.
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Formula-2
efficiency% =

Weight of fabric consumed by patterns pieces in a marker

100
Total weight of fabric of under the marker area

Weight of garment parts: To calculate weight of garment parts cut one layer of fabric according to
markers and weigh all garment parts that are included in a marker.
Weight of marker total area: Measure weight of fabric (one layer) of total marker area.
Section of Marker making :
Marker making can be carried out in the following sections :
1. Marker Planning
2. Marker Production

Marker Planning :
It is the placement of pattern pieces to meet technical requirements andneeds of material
economy.The requirements of marker planning are given below:
1. The greater attention is always given for the marker planning.
2. Any reduction in the amount of the cloth used per garment leads to
increasedprofit.Marker planning is always a very open & creative process.
3. Marker planning is a highly skilled activity and different people have differentattitudes for
this kind of work.
4. Computerized marker making can assist but rarely replace skilled people.

Marker Production :
This may include drawing of marker plan directly on the fabric, drawing iton to a paper marker
by pen or automatic plotter, or, where the cutting methodallows it, recording pattern piece information
on the paper marker or on the fabricwithout actually drawing pattern lines on it. The requirements of
production planning are given below :
1. Order quantity from buyer normally consists of different sizes in differentcolors.
2. The requirements of the production planning and control will be able tosupply the
sewing room with an adequate amount of cut garments atsufficiently frequent intervals,
consistent with the availability of the fabricsand the best utilization of cutting room
resources.
3. Higher lay than a lower lay gives a lower cutting labor cost per garment.

Factors of Marker Efficiency

1.
2.
3.
4.

Fabric Characteristics
Characteristics of Pattern Pieces
Grain Line Orientation
Standards of Fabric Utilization

1. Fabric Characteristics:
Fabric characteristics that affect utilization include differences in face and back, lengthwise
directionality, crosswise symmetry, need for matching the fabric design, length of design
repeat, and fabric width. These fabric characteristics frequently limit the arrangement of pattern
pieces. Matching fabric designs requires special marker preparation and extra piece goods.
Stripe or plaid lines must be indicated on pattern pieces and markers for accurate alignment
and matching to corresponding pieces. The greater the length between repeats increases the
potential for fabric waste.
2. Characteristics of Pattern Pieces:
Characteristics of pattern pieces may limit fabric utilization. Generally the fabric utilization
percentage increases when a variety of garment sizes are used in the same marker and when
the marker contains both large and small pieces. Smaller pieces can often be nested with
larger pieces. The shape of the pattern pieces determine hoe close they can be fit together
(interlock). Irregular shaped pieces are difficult to fit together with other pieces. Large pattern
pieces are less flexible and often dictate the placement of other pieces.
3. Grain Line Orientation:
Grain line markings determine the placement of the pattern relative to the warp yarns in
wovens or wales in knit fabrics. Pattern pieces with a similar grain orientation, if grouped
together on the marker, generally produce better utilization. Combining several bias pieces and
straight grain pieces may not fit together as well and create more fabric waste. Markers usually
have good utilization when all pattern pieces are on the bias or all pieces are cut on straight
grain.
The firm's standards for grain tolerance may also affect marker efficiency. Tilting specific
pattern pieces 1 or 2 percent may not be noticeable, and it may increase fabric utilization
noticeably. This practice can impact the fit and drape of he finished garment but it may not be
noticeable to the untrained eye. Computer marker-making programs will lock in the grain
orientation of each piece unless an override function is used to adjust them. This can be done
on a piece-by-piece basis.
4. Standards of Fabric Utilization:
Firms often establish fabric utilization standards. Firms producing basics may strive for 90 to
97 percent utilization, while fashion-firms may be able to achieve only 80 to 85 percent. It is
important for firms to document material utilization and variances from the standards to monitor
improvements or factors that impact the utilization. Better utilization is normally developed for
basic styles because optimum fabric widths are used consistently and more time invested in
cut planning and manipulating pattern pieces in the markers to reduce waste of materials.
Markers for basic styles are used to cut large volumes of piece goods and may be kept on file
and used repeatedly; thus, the time invested in improving utilization results in greater savings.
Markers for fashion styles and Quick Response strategies may be used only once or for a
limited number of spreads and few ply. Fashion garments are subject to constant changes in
styling and materials and tight deadlines that limit the time available to develop efficient
markers.

Study on scheduling on cutting room

Cutting Room
Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being cut into components (shapes
or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In mass production multiple
layers of fabrics are laid on a table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is
called as lay. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the processes is as following.
Each process is briefly explained in the following.

1.Pattern / Marker: According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment parts are made on
the pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual marker these pattern pieces are used for
marker making. On the other hand in CAD system patterns are made in computer. Later using a
plotter markers are made on sheet. In the second case cutting department receive ready marker.
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2. Cut ratio receiving: Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from planning department
or merchandiser or production manager that includes total quantity of garment pieces to be cut, sizes
ratio of the garments and colour-wise size break up. According to the size and colour ratio cutting
team prepare one marker or multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are planned
in this stage.
3. Fabric receiving: Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average
consumption of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple colour order, colour wise requirement is
made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement (generally requisition
slip is used).
4. Fabric relaxation: This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During rolling of fabric it
get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink after
making. To relax the fabric roll or thn is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.
5. Spreading (Fabric Layering): In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above another maintaining
pre-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to a certain height to avoid
cutting quality problem. Spreading is done by manual layering or automatic layering machine can be
used. During layering of the fabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.
6. Marker Making: After layering of a lay, pre made paper patterns (or ready markers made by
plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker making, marking is done around each
pattern shape using marking chalk. This process is called as marker making. In a marker all garment
components are placed.
7. Cutting: Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done using straight
knife or other cutting means. In cutting process garment component are separated. On the basis of
pattern shape different cutting method/ machine are selected.
8. Numbering: Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching all
components from same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a
garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be passed through other
processes like printing and embroidery. There is maximum chance of mixing of the components. If
there is layer number in each component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be
stitched together.
9. Sorting: According to production system (Make through, progressive bundle or one piece flow
system) cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of a garment placed together. Size wise
sorting and in case multiple colours are cut in a single lay, colour wise sorting will be required.
10. Bundling: As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces with all component
are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number,
style name, size number and quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage cutting are ready to send
to production line for stitching.

Cutting Room Management

Cutting Room Manager does what no human being can do, it takes care of all the multitude of
calculations, considerations and rules that have to be observed to run an economical cutting room. It
does this flawlessly and without falter.

Setup Marker types, table lengths, size curves, end loss and loss allowances.
Generate Automatic marker plans to ensure optimum fabric utilization, Minimize marking,
Laying and Cutting time.
Combine colors for linings / inter-linings and combine sizes for pocketing to plan markers for
these items.
Proportionally allocate additional fabric on orders.
Total work in progress control.
Establish cutting room savings by day, week, month or year to date.
Account for every Inch/cm issued and report on fabric suppliers by quality, width, length and
delivery promises.
Step lay planning for savings on end loss and laying time.
Compare coasted consumption and establish to marker consumption and establish fabric profit
or loss before authorizing markers and issue of fabric.
Automatically calculate standard times for all cutting room functions and link to Production
Control to print work tickets to monitor cutting room performances.
Manipulate lay planning to maximize garments per lay, reduce number of markers and
maximize lay height.
Automatic generation of laying up sheets.
Fabric reconciliation, report for all fabric types, orders and year to date.
Monitor consumption throughout large orders, calculating average marker efficiencies as the
order progresses.
Use Touch-screen, Palm top computer, or conventional laying up sheets for the recording of
laying up details, giving "LIVE" fabric utilisation.

Cutting Room Activities in Clothing Industry

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Fabric Inspection.
Planning / Cut Plan according to shipment schedule.
Fabric, Interlining received from store as per the plan.
Approved pattern received from pattern section / PDS section.
Marker generation or copying / Marker received from CAD section.
Spreading as per cut plan.
Cutting.
Bundling.
Cut panel checking.
Numbering.
Racking.
Fusing / Embroidery / printing.
Cut fabrics Issue / Supply to Sewing floor.
Maintain receiving and Issue Register.
Keep all record perfectly.

Cut Order Plan

One of the most crucial activities that take place in cutting room is Cut Order Plan. This activity is also
termed as lay plan, cut plan, lay lot plan, etc. Cut Order Plan is basically optimizing the cutting
process under certain constraints by following certain parameters.
1. Fabric cost
2. Marker making cost
3. Spreading cost
4. Cutting cost
5. Bundling cost
1. Fabric Cost: Fabric is the biggest chunk of the cost and has 50% -70% share in the overall
garment cost and total labor cost is a mere (10% to 15%) Out of which just cutting room labor
would be a much smaller fraction. Therefore, it makes sense to focus on reducing fabric cost in
most cases.
2. Marker making cost: With the advent of CAD systems and automatic marker making
systems, this task has become quicker and much more efficient. Marker making costs have
gone down.
3. Spreading Cost: This depends on the following parameters
Total fabric laid: Every meter has to be laid by a layer man, or layering team or machine.
Number of plies: Each new ply adds to the cost of pulling, laying, cutting or turning the fabric
across the lay.
Number of lays: Each new lay adds to the cost of preparation of the lay, sticking brown paper
or tissue, marking on the table, splice marks , laying the marker on top etc
No of roll changes: Each roll change adds the overhead of loading a roll.
4. Cutting Cost: This is dependent on number of bodies to be cut.
5. Bundling Cost: This depends on order quantity, size of bundles, number of parts etc. Cut
order plan does not have any major impact on bundling.
Analyzing the above costs the fabric cost is the most dominant one and it is the first priority of the
Cut order plan. In order to minimize fabric we have to reduce all three parameters of marker
length, end loss and plies for the overall order.
1. Marker Length
This concept is well understood in the industry that a higher efficiency marker results in better
savings. However if we make only one or two high-efficiency markers and overlook the remnant
and smaller markers the benefit diminishes. The
reduction of marker length for overall order can be calculated by following parameters.
A. Lay consumption is a practical and better indicator of overall consumption for the order as it
takes into account the influence of all the markers over the order in terms of plies.

A popular measure used in factories is marked consumption. However, it only tells the about the
quality of markers and ignores their impact on the order

The actual usage of fabric will happen based on lay consumption numbers. Therefore this number
should be used for calculation purposes for fabric requirement.
2. End loss
This parameter can be controlled by following practices.
a. A lesser number of plies in the order will result in less wastage in end loss.
b. A proper control on the production floor will help reduce end loss
c. The end loss can be reduced by combining lays to make longer spreads.
This loss however is unavoidable to a certain extent but it certainly can be reduced. This topic
is beyond the scope of this article would be discussed separately.
3. Plies
This is a very important factor which is often ignored while trying to get the right mix ratio of the
order. Lets see the impact of number of plies with a simple case.Ideal plies is the least number
of plies which is required to cut the whole order under the present constraint

The number of plies can affect saving in various ways.

Wastage in Markers: Every additional ply put on the markers will result in wastage of fabric
within the marker owing to its efficiency and some end loss as well. The number of plies should
not vary largely from the ideal plies for better fabric saving.
Each additional ply results in higher spreading cost as well.
The number of plies actually used will increase slightly from ideal numbers due to remnant
markers. However, a factory can always monitor the variance percentage from ideal plies.n.
Make Cutting room planning a reality
Monitoring cutting room productivity is not done in most factories, however, many times poor work
supply from the Cutting Room causes major production losses. It is essential to factory performance
that the cutting room is intelligently managed and controlled and this will be greatly enhances if times
can be established for all of the operations required in each order, for example:
Some styles have lots of fusing, -- can the fusing department cope?
How do you manage the workload when producing checks or stripes?
What is the effect of small orders?
How much spreading can be done on difficult fabrics
If the order situation is difficult how will the cutting room manage?
How can you balance the work properly to satisfy the demands of all of the production lines?
Before embarking on a program such as this it is vital that you have the systems in place to control
fabric utilization,since there are ways to improve the effectiveness in the department by reducing the
efficiency of fabric utilization andthis of course would be the totally wrong approach to the problem,
since the cure may be worse than the disease.
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Establishingtimes:
a) Plan the cutting room effectively
b) Monitor the performance of all departments within the cutting room
c) Monitor Work In Progress
d) Make sure that all component parts to an order are cut together
e) Simplify time and method study practices for Cutting operations

How to do it.
1. Studies are carried out on every activity for all processes in the cutting room.
2. A sequence of operations required for the style is developed.
3. A Data Card containing details of the style is set up.
4. After marker planning the details are available for marker length, plies, number of sizes etc.
5. The above information is then used to generate standard times for every activity.
6. Bar-coded tickets are produced for every operation. These are scanned at regular intervals (2
hourly) during the day.

Monitoring performance for the following processes:

1. Laying up
2. Straight knife cutting
3. Round Knife cutting
4. Band knife cutting
5. Fusing
6. Re-Cutting
7. Re laying
8. Matching Stripes and blocks
9. Numbering
10. Sorting
To establish the time for spreading fabric you need the following informatio
OPERATION QUANTITY FACTORS
1. Roll Change
2. Spread / Lay Fabric
3. Start Clamp
4. End Clamp
5. End bit administrati

QUANTITY FACTORS
1. Time Per Roll
2. Time Per Meter
3. Time Per Ply
From the marker plan and the information on the rolls to be issued for this order times can be
calculated for the laying up process.
The following are guidelines on how to establish times for the other functions in the cutting room, it is
simply a matter of breaking the functions required into small sections and
Cutting
1. Based on Fabric category and ply height
2. The number of sizes in the lay
3. Each pattern is measured along the perimeter and times are applied according to the distance
covered to cut straight lines, curves, or corners ect.
4. The analysis also includes times for manual motions such as cutting nips/notches, clamping,
disposing parts,and various cutting elements e.g. sharpen blade, reset guide etc.
.
Numbering
1. Times for Numbering are established Per Ply
2. Also Includes time to Change the Sticker Rolls and adjusting the numbers in the machine
3. Thus the Numbering time for a Marker = (Time to number one ply * No. of plies* No of parts in
the Garment)* No. of sizes in the Marker + Sticker roll change time
Fusing
1. Fusing times are established per ply
2. Analyses is done according to the Fusing method for each part, it could be direct onto the
machine or sheets can be preloaded and passed through fusing machine.
3. Machine Cycle time is added in the analyses.
4. Total time for fusing a part in a marker = (Time to complete fusing one ply* No. of plies in that
marker)* no of sizes in that marker
Times for different parts are then added together to derive the fusing time for that marker.

Bundling
1. All parts are bundled into a predetermined size based on the no of parts in the Garment
2. Parts which are to be sewn together are normally bundled together in mini bundles.
3. Times for bundling are derived per bundle.
4. Total time to Bundle 1 lay = (Time to bundle an average size bundle * No. of bundles in that
size* No. of sizes in the lay.
The above pointers show that times can be established for all of the processes that occur in the
cutting room, and of course once times have been produced it is possible to monitor operator
performance against these times and to use the efficiencies produced to plan how long new orders
will take in the various departments within the cutting area.
The actual setting of the times for each of the above points will be greatly enhanced by using MTM 2,
you can of course use Time study techniques but it will take many studies to establish times accurate
enough to be able to be used with confidence.

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