HOW TO USE THEM HOW TO SHARPEN THEM |: Be‘This is the ultimate in a leatherworking bench, designed for two people. It is basically constructed of 5/8", 1", & 3/8 plywood with 2" x 3" lumber for framing. The decorative designs are cut out of 1/16" maple veneer, glued to plywood, and all varnished. The natural darkening of the plywood creates a cameo effect with the veneer cut-outs. The two large panels above the bench fit below the top doors, totaly covering al ofthe tool Two 48” light fixtures are built onto the top with twin fluorescent bulbs for ample lighti The top storage units are 12” deep x 10” high. The opened door shows plastic cigar boxes containing snaps, rivets, catches, and other small The lower bench is 36” wide x 12° long. A 20” x 20” marble slab is at each end. These are sed for skiving, folding leather, ete. The cutting board (and working surface) in the middle is piece of white pine 24” wide x 8° 8" long x 1 thick. AIl of the hand tools are on the back and side support areas. This area is 20” high, The bench surface is 40" high from the floor. The height should vary to fit your staturé. The proper height minimizes fatigue. A bench too low will ‘cause back problems with long hours of work Se Te ORK nN ‘The splitting machine (attached to bench) is mounted on a 2° x 6” board that inserts into a slot just under the top of the bench, This is simply pulled out of the slot and stozed below, when not in use. The space direetly below the cutting board is for storage of leathers, patterns, etc. The bottom drawers are fitted with remov able dividers for storing odds and ends of leather, ete, The bench is designed to come apart in 4 sections, for easy transportation. The plans for ‘building this bench were given in“ The Craftsman” ‘magazine, March/April (1970) Vol. XIV, No. 3. The shallow. wallmounted shelves. (ait right) store all of our dyes, brushes, thinners, etc utilizing the full wall space. Obviously, everyone does not have ample room to build such a bench. Each person has to determine the size of his working area available ‘Then, lay out all of the tools and try to determine how they can be arranged to best utilize the space. It is hoped the photo of our bench, and the suggestions on page 2 will be of help in setting up ‘your own leatherworking shop. Our leather carving and stamping bench is a separate unit. Complete plans were given in “The Craftsman” magazine, November December(1969) Vol. XIV, No. 1FOREWORD Much information on the use of leatherworking tools has already been published in a variety of books and magazines, With this book, we have made an effort to get all of this information under one cover for easy and quick reference We have also expanded information with more detailed instructions and illustrations than ever before. All of the tools have their place in the formation and production of leathermade projects. Many ff the tools can be used to perform a variety of tasks, other than that for which they were originally intended. These will be illustrated where applicable. We also show the “do's and don'ts” of using many of the tools. SHARP TOOLS: Special attention is given to ‘he sharpening of all of the tools (razor blade tools excepted). A dull knife is more apt to ruin a project or cut one’s self than a sharp fone! Dull punches and gouges are a frustration fo use, as well as performing improperly SHARPENING instructions are given with each tool, or refer you to the page on which the sharpening instructions are giv Throughout these pages we also show how you ‘can _make many of the tools, or have friends sist in their manufacture from inexpensive ‘materials. Some of the tools shown. ...being of carly manufacture for the saddle and harness trade. . may no longer be made as most saddlery and hamess items are now mass-produced using ‘modern machinery However, many of these tools can still be found jn out-of-the-way places: in someone's attic, bam, etc. You may be fortunate enough to obtain some of them, Look for the names Gomph, W. Rose, MeMillen, Osborne and others. The older tools were generally made of high: quality. materials, with good tempered cutting edges ty Frile on horcebaeke fino frer {f AeSublenatie —s! ee In the modern world of mass-production some quality may be sacrificed for quantity and/or price competition. If you have a kife that will, not hold a sharp edge, or a punch that continually crumples at the cutting edge, about the only recourse you have is to return it to the place of purchase and request a replacement. Be sure, of course, that you are using the tool properly. DRAWINGS versus PHOTOGRAPHS: You will notice there are very few photo illustrations of step-by-step instructions in this book. It is my feeling that the drawings graphically explain, the steps in greater detail. Photographs often leave shadowed and indistinct areas, unless heavily retouched. ‘The DRAWINGS can be exaggerated to bring attention to important points, as well as incor orating several steps into one illustration. Tt ‘would be simpler and faster to use photographs. However, it is our intention to gve you the finest, most comprehensive instructions possible with ‘a _minimum of printed copy. Hence, the hhundreds of detailed drawings and ilestrations. Often times, different types of tools will perform identical or similar functions. In this case we will, sometimes refer you to the other took, rather than repeat the instructions over and over again, We also refer you to other publications where specific instructions have previously been given, rather than to use up valuable space with con tinuous repitition. MASTER INDEX: One should make a “master index” from all of the books in his leathereraft library. This will give you instant access to all that has been published, and refresh your memory on things you may have read and for- gotten. Add this book to your list of leather- craft knowledge, AL Stohman ‘Copyiht 1988 Tandy Lester Company ore Worth, Toxo 78138,"ARRANGEMENT and CARE_of the TOOLS Some suggestions for setting up the tools ‘re offered on this page. For hand tools, {88 ot Fight, preplan the location of your fools, Tack one end of the leather strip to backboard of your bench. Fold it around the fool and tack down, Hold nex! fool in ploce, fold leather over it and tack down. Continue this procedure until you have completed. Mark “size” numbers on loops holding the tools, for quick identification ‘ond constant replacement, f Hang hammers 1o back of bench as sug. (gested, Make a bracket from wire or coat Ranger forthe cabblers hammer. Serew it to the back of the bench or ether handy place. storage, areas the bench; well protected. Other tools can be hung trom. hooks under top or back of bench, or under leather pocfet should be made for the Head Knife and serewed to the back of ces sn Protect your knives by making leather pockets sewn 10 a backpiece as suggested (left). Screw to back or side of the bench Use heavy leathers. Seo pocket for the Head Knife | below. made for your punches by nail ing two boards together. Tock a strip of leather eround each tool, ‘8 instructed above. Mark the size of each punch on the leather strip. The bottom board protects the cutting adges. Glue leather sirip to bot tom boat aTOOLS for SHARPENING (ae) syrpening Stones come Ina wide variety of sizes, shapes, Sherpa an git surtocos of coore, mectum, on fine {te stone oF the name implies, mus use wor for lb wosn Bll slones should be osed wh the honing ol For Rd Arkansos sone, light minerl oil is svagesed TE ee ere sess Ol STONES: Akantcethard tsa Inte fotumioun ronan earaes had tees ODI ted Sones. Crystolon; fr fast cutting. India Auger for geting in Stroll areas. Neoprene Abrasives (extra fine; good forsrop- ure ping). Carborundum; very fost cutting, ps SHAPED STONES: Slip, knife, square, round, triengle, ste, Sra avollabe for both water re ol fication, Sis mea {Sais do nt come uly sharpened, you vsally begin shop ing wih he curse of mediom git and fnth sherpening winthe fine grt then sop oun ‘OTHER SHARPENING AIDS ARE SHOWN BELOW: a RAKE. -} depth af Stone store, ha i Va \n a ee \\eyetess \\ eRoM A" conc Moke a shallow box for the sione (lef). Glue ports fogether, Drive tacks ie : in bottom corners; cut off ot '** wi \ ER dn angles tows orp ime i points 16" lang. Ti hb th bx ry on mV eee von han sherpa rok (aaa) oo ernee a im extro-fine grits. Their Uses ore shown with the Shorpening instructions fon pages 91 through 95. \ a ‘An ostoniment of smell jeweler files CTD) see nes, CSET) 2 Sees rperingsrol te . punches, edgers, etc. (See specific tocl.) HOW TO SHARPEN TOOLS IS SHOWN ON EACH TOOL PAGE, OR A REFERENCE PAGE WILL BE GIVEN. .The ROUND KNIFE and the HEAD KNIFE sborne ‘The ROUND KHIFE na a nee wives a Ich er eee te pain By pesos sec 0M" 1 ‘Tw HEAD KNIFE & sot wo hae at my reuatnet round ad fue per ap sec om ig itu, ath ih sity se ROUND KNIFE... Symbol of the Leothercroft Trade! Oftentimes, the: HEAD kaif is also relerred to as o Round knife. Actually, the Head knife is more practical for all-around use as you can do all skiving with it, and the natrower poinis are much better for cutting purposes, This isthe most versatile and most used for the cutting and skiving ofthe thinnest tothe heaviest leathers. We use these knives in 95% ofall of our cutting and skiving operations. Once you have mastered the use of ths tool, you will “wonder how you could have ever leathercrofied without i. Put in ots of proctice on scrop pieces. The following pages wll show you just how ver Satile these knives are. Be sure you read all ofthe instructions footie tee of HEAD |lam dismayed with some of the methods shown for In my personal opinion, 5 a 6" blade is much using this knife {in other publications) where some 100 large. It would do bes! as anu chopper ar for completely wrong information is given! it isme wonder _cuting blubber. A 414" blade i the maximum; < that the beginner is terrified ofthis tol! 4° blade is more the ideo! SHARPENING THE BLADE Most knives do not come -completely & Shorpeneat If the Bods sry dul you most form & beveled tcige before you con Eogin ro shorpen i eain te shorpen it ays mr fone ina clrcvlar ‘motion (le) Appiy oil 10 the stone. Hold stone ond knife securely and rk around the perimeter unl the blade takes shape: Work on oth she nae Koap cut of Line of cute —> ‘When cutting curves, til the knife back in @ more upright position asin step 1, and cbove, raster he curve, the more the knife should be tilted back... asin step 4 (ight). Here you will tte thet the eed of the handle con actually touch the leather for very tight turns small arrow). Fin- Wad Boa must move forword. Tur the leather as required 10 focitatecuting, With experience in using AS Head knife. you can cut a curve %4" in diameter in heavy leather When cutting out through the edge, you can roll the blade forward, as shown (lef). Turn the leather 08 often os necessary, so your cutting 4 cutting hand Is not under undue stress. Keep the leather fat fon the cutting board, ‘ond your left hand ‘ou! ofthe line of the DO NOT. Holdshe leather off the cutting surface to make cuts, You may nat be able to contra the Cut; could eosily undercut. EXCEPTION: It Joute rough-culting a piece out ofa side or large piece of leather!CUTTING with the HEAD KNIFE Tilt hand and blade to make ongled cuts. Exomple (8) shows cut mage for the miter-jaint used in making Teather boxes. Cut (C) is for the “hidden stitch” See NOTE —— -— ese ete NOTE: For making the hidden stitches, complete details are given in “The Art of HAND SEWING TETHER” Moking leather boxes is alsa shown in that book using the miter-jein construction. Much more fn leather boxes and cases is fully detailed in the books: "The Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES". .. Vol ‘Ume ONE & Volume TWO. nS ‘OUT INSIDE PIECES; CUTTING AT CORNERS er tate WRONG cuz Begin caning = pressing the point Jade straight dawn in corer, fs shown, into the cutting board. E Section ts be tat here ere End first cut, from stop Ti just shor of the cor ner, as indicated below. WRONG «do not ty 10 cutie @correr es there ise possibly of slipin andcating trough the corner marks ond ruining the projec Begin second cut ot the oppo- site corner (shown ot right) by pressing point of blade Sioight down in the corner, fs instructed in step 1. Cul—tagin fist ae through to join ond complele——Secand ies When cating 2 he for anay from the co x shown of left This pre= Sents unwanted cuts eyond the marks, thot might waste bit of Teather because of these coreless cuts the first cut. Keep the blede tut = Sroight up and down Broken oraws show renee co comple Sree. de eeCUTTING with the HEAD KNIFE....continued (> Toewt out slots, mark post Hons on the leather and fpunch proper sized holes ot the ends. Then cut out from the holes of indicated by the broken arrows. ere To cut out larger openings, punch out holes im small Bee Punch acl Le te LP Wisp use Hood kale tn : thefe reas, Moke cuts ot Sg oun by broken arrows; A goK Always cut assay from the hhotes. Never try to com plete a cut by cutting {into a hole? CUTTING cxnCLES (Sateen isha wren pete eoe rs etsecena ae TuTTTaG O0F BERLE Towa stars, | A very efficient mmathod of curtin ten. @)Rellblode forword fo (5) The distance method of COTM yg sade save Ghnplete cut. Moke cut at fom the fold 10 the 2 ‘opposite edge of hole (4) hole, and the size o eee ‘Siemove lesiner Moke fee deere Sided strap. (2 - the cuts straight out. by the weight o {Sided Sep) : y Peblodes re Re an Boa another ae edeegmea | reiepare ting surtace, thickness of BuckleCUTTING with the HEAD KNIFE... .continued ark Oe Side Only IH one is not adept ot cutting points (2) Place strap on cutting board ond hold firmly wits left hand without a pattern, then make © set Begin cut parallel o the edge ofthe strap (large orrow) and begin of templates out of cardboard or cutting the curve. (3) Complete the cu, of illustrated. (4) Turn strap metal of different strap widths. veri flesh side ond with template, mark the other side to be cut Place on leather and mork right Complete the cut as in stops 20nd 3. Hold the blade straight up side only if right handed) as shown ond down, and olways make a clean cut, with point of blade in the in sop (1) above, cutting board, ‘gst cut a CUTTING STRAIGHT LINES, Hove hand along white cutting, to eS eee = WAS ae Sroight cuts con be made with the Heod knife without the oid of straight edge at guide. Seribe & guideline olong a stright edge of leather). (A) Begin the catos usual: (@) Rll the blade forward gs you continue the cut This ives mare euting surface and control ofthe blade with long slicing Sxtion You can cut os saight line as eam be made using 0 ruler os @ fide We never useo guide when citing out ony projet with he Head hold eather down. Teinsregunitrm with when tapering SP sSrap ends, mark on the grain side and | Gut sgh out atthe ends os shown at EFT and RIGHT. Then point the ends os insruced above Train side s£com cr NEVER iinet You have no positive control ‘and a slip could couse 0 Serious accident! nHOW to SKIVE with the HEAD KNIFE WaLbING whe KATE for Ske sine view tecurely, The en (see poge 6). Wold Leather Fenty bate font sn se For skving, the knife is held slighty diferent thon RRown on page 6.The thum® ond 3rd and ath fingers Ste held’ mors ofthe side of the handle allowing the Breet lay closer the eather which is necessny for Sling Alt ingore must grip firmly to hold erie FF he hal most fim the hee of ‘fethond an shown of left Cot of handle ecessory A hard, smooth surface is required for skiving. A piece ‘of marble, or a heavy piece of plote glass makes on ‘deal skiving surface. Stree the there are very de creates T] reine a slate few exceptions! | [By slicing tetin NOTE: Leather is falwaye skived on ‘the flesh sides Place leather on skiving surfoce, flesh side up, ond hold knife in position shown above. Begin skive ot edge of leather, with edge of blede agains! the skiving surface. This will not dull the knife, if Kept ot the flat skiving congle. This gouges the depth ofthe skive 3 By mointaining firm pressure wth tbe blade against the skiing sr fece, ond o rigid hold onthe kniefat@ constant Apply firm pressure with blede agains! the Skiving surface, and move knife forward. Hold knife rigid in hand... do not let it waver... maintain the skiving angle ond the pressure against glass for uniform skive. DO NOT try skiving edges with the middle of blade. Besides skiving angle, you can make veryilong, smooth and uniform losing the slicing ection, you Skives. PRACTICE! Much practice is required to master this operation. | cannot make rope ski ‘rc iecrned, you con skve he hinne!toheaviest leathers with ese. |The edge the leather, next to ‘ice on every sop of leather you can find! Stop the Blade often. | the skving surface iSKIVING with the HEAD KNIFE...continued iy aifficult Bie Shallow Too obep pieeeicr Once starting the skive, use ne continuous forward motion! 2 oe sume x A ‘Mony of your first skiving attempts will look like the edge shown Until you become proficient in ‘obove, This is caused by mony things: A dul blade, onxiely, waver: skiving, it moy be useful to ing with the blade, ete. Da not be discouraged! The more practice, *he scribe a guide line to follow more you will get the feel of the operation, gain confidence, and with the blade. Thickness of Understand the proper angle of the blade. This will come with prac- leather and angle of skive tice. "Most of us had To erow!, before walking!” determines posiionof the guide CONTROLLING THE DEPTH OF THE SKIVE x ae A [om oo SECTION Shining Sertacey VIEMS Cn Fira grained Leather asisten- Al B ‘The depth of the skive is controlled by the dis: Here the pel AT iiiness nt of the blade is farther once of the point of the blade from the edge of the away from the edge of the leather, reducing leather, Notice the deeper skive (above) to cut the skive by ¥4, though the angles ofthe blades are feather edge. the same, Cc A mor wmode by ski potice the at flater (lef) Head kite fen Bhi Cross-section view showing he flaterangie = ofthe blode. 0 re tapered skive con be iving in ftom tha edge, over the fire! skive made in step (A). You'l ingle of the blade must be Go over the areas as much ry ta achieve 0 smooth, topered skive, This method is used in some saddlery work where very long topered skive Is made (fron 4” 106" in} {going out to 6 featherec edge. The is the most practical and oll knives for olmost all 3SKIVING with the HEAD KNIFE. ..continued The versity of he Head rife for king isilstoted inthe photos above. The sheepskin ust eos skived as the heavy skirting leather. Keep blade shorp! fe ne i m Firaly SA foe Shived tage i tee 8 7 @ With nartow srops ond small pieces, the skive cannot begin ot the end... the ef hand has no place ui Meena ere the spond sive 2 09 ches clog he edge shown In 3). Now or the Shop tothe orginal poston (A) ond eh hond can hold the end. Skivng can continue on edge(C). Thickness con be removed off ends of straps and bolts os above. Bagin the skive in the middle of the blade ond gradually turn towards the point ‘os you neor the end, 10 get the slicing skiving Sarton, Considerable practice will be required. Skive over the crea os much os necessary until Uniform thickness is achieved, KEEP THE BLADE SHARP! If you cognot sharpen gy, so svg 0 6S your blade. perhops o friend or neighbor is rae a ee cre Proficient in sharpening tools. Show him our sm matured Youn eg meee 4BEVEL EDGE SKIVING KNIFE (ne side only This is one of the old-time knives that hes been one side only. The blade is about 4" long, itis used found for many years. twas mainly designed at much like the Head knife for the skiving opera~ Schwing tool. The blades were generally 114" to tions, The beveled side of the blade should be next Toi wide, with the bevel, of the cutting édge, on to the leather. Study the instructions below. Firaly sith your J\ 7 | St SS Hold he knife as shown above and Or left The frst two fingers should OP heavy fest on the top of the blade, the leathers, you con SS Siher fingers and thumb grasping begin he skivect the end Tohonele irate econ ofthe leather os with the Head knife (page 1). 7 on ee = oe long, tapered bevels can tm oot este mn 2) De otf Se at <7 beSnade by skiving re oa Apply firm pressure: move the repeatedly in from the tot ior ite hse fe forward Motlanthe skiing te, Hold the knife ate ‘ely swt Wal Gngle, hold the Knife firmly forever, uni- Fetter ‘angle. Review fon form tiving of the bevel insrotions: page 13. ‘SHARPENING THE SKIVING KNIFE 7, [ae wis Fenty 5) tation Strop the blode by pulling over the rouge board. Be sure beveled edge is flush with the board. A sharp blode is o “must” for good, clean skiving, If you ore not proficient in sharpening ols, perhaps o knowledgeable friend con ossis. Show Firm these instructions, if warranted. Hold the blade firmly, with the beveled elige flush withthe slone: Move ina circular motion ©. apply. ing pressure with the left hand. A long bevel Is Tequlrad on this too. Finish sharpening on @ fine gf rea pening 3KNIVES ‘As with the Heod knife, © ‘bevel must be maintained dt the cutting edge EVEL OE The three knives shown here are for general leatherwork. IF you are not proficient with the Head knife, some of these knives can be used 10 substitute some of the ‘cutting and skiving operations. Each knife, however, has 's own distinctive WRONG | "ice DO NOT iry to curttag cut in this mal manner. Con Fol of the cut > is impossible! When cutting with the bevel point or bevel edge knife, hold as shown above. Straighter cuts con be made by holding the knife at @ law angle os shown (A). For cutting curves, hold straighter up os in (B). Try to cut through the leather with the firs effort Repeated cuttings, fo.gei through the leather, may leave a ragged edge unless you slay inthe previous cut Wi a | tot Fests te When cuting out inside Booin cut (A) By push: ing the blode tatght 7 dom Thanet oopeo. Site corner (8) Bopin and et(and jon fst Gat Folow stops thy won page 9” Cut out slots ob shown on page io real For cutting straight lines, use @ metal tule or square as « guide. You must hold it firmly to make a clean cut. IF cutting from the flesh side, you can {ope the rule to the leather to assist holding the rules. Keep fingers away from the cutting edge, atthe rule. ED isin at cot ed at,ge of cage of Glass Aegch (or narble) Finger on Skiving Surface cage af Leather ale aS flesh side age of ade i inst Glass Hold the knife as shown at lett and above. Be sure it | is sharp! If your skiving surface hos o smooth edge, ploce rat the edge of your bench, The blade con rest [Sgains the glass to act a8 9 guide while skiving ‘This will ot dul the blade the edge ofthe gloss :moath. Place the edge of the lether a the edge of the glass (for feother edge skive) Hold the knife ‘ecrly ond begin hive shown np 1; by pushing into the leather, near top oF biade? Hold the leather securely with free Without losing motion, pull blede back to position in step (I). This is not @ cuiting action fongle of blade. foend) ‘The BEVEL EDGE SKIVING. knife is held and used ‘exacly as the uilty knife Shown above. dull the blade. doe of KNIVES. . continued Incontinuous ing angle of blade, continut ‘ction (2), withdrawing (3), and continue skiving The cross-section views ot right show how the depth of the skive can be altered by mov- ing the edge of the leather back away from the edge of the skiving surface. CAUTION: Edge of skiving surface must bbe smooth, or you will quickly aly with Cert hand hand. Hold the blade against the glass ‘and ot o 45 degree angle. As you push the blade into the leather, simulta neously slice it upwards, making the sive “sawing” motion, elways mainain- pushingsicing Feathered Shive edge oF sian surface atte a FERTHRED SVE age of the Leather set bak the thickness of the Teather, a Ratate taste a fare o eter aTaine Ene eats. ates J van ‘The UTILITY KNIFE is excellent for trimming excess leothers. Place fon the edge of your bench, as Shove, Keep the blade af an ‘angle, fr slicing action. ‘The BEVEL-POINT or BEVEL- EDGE knives are good for working interior areas os above, where uneven cuts ton be smoothed out by addi. tional trimming. A shorp, pointed blode is essential for cutting off threads (or laces) when com- pleting o project wm) \, OF we DAZ ‘A few examples of various uses for the knives are shown on this page. Welts, welt construction, fond special instructions for trim: ming welts is fully illustrated in "The Act of MAKING LEATHER CASES" Vol. TWO, pages 75 through 79. Also see page 25 for ‘added tip on evening edges of leathers, in the above book. The fexomples at right show the pro} cts put in the slitching horse. This fs advisable to hold the work securely. Strop the blades often to keep them sharp! tegethor stitching Horse ‘SEE PAGE 90 FOR SHARPENI ‘Always pull the blade ‘way from the eutiing edge. y (A) Place 3 vlode dn sop A | withthe beveled edge" tunt Apply piss sure oboe bloae frfay on the Stop Mere blade crow the stro strop to position (B) and completely off oe the board {C) Turn blode ‘over fo strop the ther side, Place fn stop as shown fond pull blade up to position (O) is will srop ol of the edge. Repeat both sides several times. Place end ofThis litle set has o wide variety of interchange. able blades, which usually come very shorp, Unlike razor blades, these can be sharpened, The handles all have chucks for quick blade changes. Sharpening blades; page 90. These blades are excellent for cutting out small letters oF figures, cutting and skiving light leathers, etc. The pointed blades are ideal for cutting off thread (as shown on opposite page) fond trimming lace ends, et. Other suggestions eA for their uses ore shown below. ae psy cr es Botha / NEY J YEAR 1 The photo at right isthe back Side of one of Ann's Christ~ mes cards, This is the flesh fide of the leother, contrast figures. Color-dyeing is very oye (color) letters and apply Letters and Figires cat frow FLTeRE SGPT LENTER BOSSI PLES Fiatsat Lue Lecther plugs are glued under the corving leather fo embors (aise) the figure into three The smell, pointed blodes are deal for dimensions, These knives work filgreeing design ---ot smell euived very wall for cuting out the recs, where cuting would be dificult. , plug outline ond for sculpting Burch oles othe proper size Always‘ the form. Rough-shaping the cur away from the holes. Try 70 make form is usually all that is clean cots all the way through the required for general lesthor to avoid ragged edges. ‘embossing 19KNIVES. . continued a Tricity (rer) AWE The SKIVER ond the SKIFE (above) ore designed for kiv- ing only. Both use the injector type razor blades. When dull, they ave simply replaced. Some practice is required ‘vith these tool to learn how to cantal the skiving, espe Clally on light leathers. The SKIVER hos @ more comfort ‘ble handle than the SKIFE, Follow the suggestions below, for skiving. ‘There are on unlimited number of razortype knives, all of which have the disposable type blades. Shorpening such blades is impract- cal. Many modele have the snap-off blades. ‘When the first edge becomes dll its simply broken off to reveal a fresh :utting edge. The UTILITY RAZOR KNIFE has o sturdy handle ‘ond is good for cutting through most leathers Tris good for oll of the cutting operations shown on page 16. Uneven skives will \ cezur if you do not hove constant pres- {ure withthe right hand. Practice \ Until you get the feel of. Place leather on the skiving surface, hold down with the left hand. On light leathers, begin the skive down a bit from the top edge. Hold tkivers at ongles shown, a8 0 slicing action makes Skiving eosier, Pull skiver foward you, mointaining constant pressure, angle, and rigid hold on the tool. It will take some practice fo make uniform skives, saintaie 7 With heavy leather you con begin the skive ot the top edge (block arrow), Keep ‘After skiving the full edge in step 1, 1uen / Teather (A) and complete the skive fo the top). Skiver must be ited to skive the trdge on this side, matching the sngle oF the shiva in stop | 20 the right side of the tool against the skiving surface os ¢ guide, Maintain constant position and pressure on the skiver to make & smooth skive os illusteated on the sketch. (continued)RNIVES. for deeper ekive, begin again ot the top ond repeat step, 5 This broadens the skive and removes more lecther illustration above). continued ‘ros 5) Repeat the operation to broacen and deepen the skive. This same method con be used with the Safety Skiver SKIVING STRAP ENDS Y oreduce the thickness of straps (buckle ends, etc.) © more iret pull can be used. Do nol ry to remove the full width Of the sirap in-one operation. More control ofthe depth is possible by skiving Off one side; then the other Ve JS) use CAUTION! ~~ Begin second skive os shown, overlap- ping info the Ist skive, Much practice Iwill be required to make even skives. Re-skive aver areas that ore not uniform in thickness. Hp of haat To remove the blade from the SKIFE, clamp handle in vise. Push blade out with a screwdriver (A). To replace new blade, remove from vise and insert blade in turned ledge (8). Hold down with thumb ond push in os shows Tp replace blode in the SKIVER, remove ferews and the bottom plote. 7 oe sere <7 ‘ity norm septs t thes can be abana sown sow. EXAMPLE: you hoe an 8x sD an wish 0 {e 8 ox kes, ne tmp ss of 60, aber toe (Al equ 8 02; ai Bo. eke. Bape se shown. page ta ae aro) on 6 os, uote ating de arpa), Ts preven uing dar the te Bo. ik Soe si AS fog a you do nt low the la oct na se 2SWIVEL KNIFE BLADES, their USES, and HOW to SHARPEN THEM | |} ia = crate mo-snie. ene -a00e [axa sion The insructions on these pages will not include | Ste Te estos oem at he Soneel LSE] u Kniestsell Adequate instructions have been go son soe antes Shen In previoss publications, The “LEATHER ate Pron) Worx MANUAL” Hos excellent inctions on falding and using his ook a Nh ee | Cur main purpose here is to show how 0 ed \ Sharpen the blodes, ond where they con be shed best advontage. The reguir blodes are] Serperivetnon eholiowavoundburboth | Weer ie'some. The hollow ground blades | reo reatier io iharpen The Rubyet (Rea ee ele Cdusrict rubies) never require shorpening wae 3 Here Ronls e's opotec a comes. WAIN LMS ee TLCACE | IRTT The importance of keeping the blade sharp cannot be stressed too often! A good quality sharpening stone ThSuid be purchased, Use the coarse side for quickly shaping the blade; the fine git for producing « keen Suge, The Craftool KEEN EDGE SHARPENER is an excellent tool fo aid in sharpening the sw vel knife blades [Tre Cha 1000 KEEN EDGE SWIVEL KNIFE SHARPENER_|————————— oe “ae (e"} eS oi wea Se ee lo. 4 owen 7 al Sharpening the blades with the KEEN EDGE SHARPENER: Place the shaft of the swivel krife blade into the hole of the blade holder Loosen wing nut, set unit on stone, aad slide holder up or down to get the angle of the blade flush with sione, Tighten wing nut. Apply ol stone, grasp tool firmly and apply pressure as Jou move the unit back and forth, I will be necessary to place index finger on the blade during the pulling Trotion (see stopping sketch on opposite page). The blade is sef-ieveling on the stone. Turn bode over to Sharpen the other side. The angles ofeach side should be exactly he some. The blade s now ready to trop NOTE: The Keen Edge Shorpener oly sharpens the angle blades, 2 Eee Aca aaaSSTROPPING THE BLADE ter shorpening, he ble con ‘woppad ov ovine srocus Be hot Below Pull he Blase $e Re dein, opeling pros ehh ects urn Hiss over to svop the he sda NOTE PULL. blade to strap. BO NOT push! SHARPENING THE FILIGREE BLADE iE The filigree blade should be shorpened ot a much lesser ‘angle thon the other blades. SHARPENING THE BLADE “7 By wan When sharpening the blade by hand, hol the swivel barrel firmly of the proper angle. Apply ail tothe sone {nd push the blade bock and forth ‘igorously with pressure onthe blade Repeat other side. Check the bevels see thot both sides are even, if not Continue sharpening unt they are SWIVEL KNIFE BLADES... continued MAKING A. ‘STROPPING BOARD FROM Jeweler ‘A BUSINESS Ga caRD Rub JEWELER'S ROUGE thoroughly aver the back side of a card, Place the card on fs ¢ a hard, smooth surface to stop. There is 1) 1 | seine oe tone hkl ong i /] | sigs win'be stopped avery. Keep this (|_| Snvour bench, ord stop ofen, te keep fwnone ] } your swivel krife blade in fop euting foadition cud be in the canter CAUTION, ‘When stropping the blade by hand, be Sure to hold the blade ot the same sharpening angle! PULL ONLY..70 STROP/, —> 00 KOT roll up the hand an some ing the stop, or the ‘effingsup ection will Guile cong edge of the blogs ing surface PROTECT "YOUR: BLADES! (00 NOT leave your blades laying loots, to become camaged |: agoinst other tools. A couple of suggestions ore shown * above, Many modifications are possibe. 23USING the SWIVEL KNIFE BLADES ‘The Regular and Hollow Ground blades are used for general cuting. > The widest blades are used for cutting straight lines and sweeping curves. Use smaller blades as the designs become more complex. Very Straight border lines can be made by using the 3rd & ath fingers as @ gauge against the edge ofthe leather (with the 14" blade) as shown at Fight. The depth of the cuts is generally about Ys the thickness of the leather. This spreads the cuts open for easier beveling; greater siamp- ing depth REGULAR or FOLLOW GROUND BLADES] DECORATIVE CUTTING Here the design i ct, ready fr slomping. Use The design above shows only the decorative ut, USharegeiegor Hollow Ground blodes:Use © Note how they conform tothe flow ofthe design Srelghradgecse guideforcutingthesreightbor: Decorative cuting is done lst cera stamping ene. fs been complet FILIGREE BLE The design ot left is shown flligreed (back- ground cut out). The filgras blade works well Sn leathers up to 4 oz. fr Fligre work: Ke the Biode shorp! Complete fligreing Insruc, tions are clearly shown inthe Books "TOP 20 pages 220 24 The Filigree blade is olso used for cutting very small designs. See ANGLE BLADE] hex! page for odd The Angle blades tional uses. ‘ore very good for general ‘eth SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS fo wig th ANGLE a FILIGREE ise 4 le Pleo Caning Fis, page 4 pre Cary re’, pa 6. and ‘Hout hepa of bthbackeVEL. KNIFE BLADES.. wise IDE “= 2G |= anf ik! |_ DANICDIEC DIAS Tl JNIWIX VT LL ABCDEFGHIUKLMNO PORSTUVWKYZ Lay ae re 11S Shi ee Via Culting ABCDEFGHIUKLMNO] Seefers PORSTUVWXYZ RBDE FGHRI TKS CIV OCRS TUV : = WXY bdth jklmopquvwxyz G[arc wn RUE TO (Gaftool Soa BE cfm te eteal Size eveling Surface The BORDER TOOL is designed to fit o regular" swivel knife blade, for cutting accurate border Tines from Via" t0.114" wide. The adjustable guide Is set 10 the desired border width and Tacked with @ set screw. The blade is locked in the end slot with a set screw. ‘The nylon EASY-BEVEL blade fits in the swivel knife borrel, os with the other blades. It is shaped like a beveling tool and glides easily long a cut edge for fast, smooth beveling, Study the examples below. oA 210 shasey Vos te Ki a sow went Io fe at kod a fem doh ay Om a TEES of the cat Tart lear with hand to keep en 7 3 _and in the comers as suggested below. aes as : = 2 evELING COREE Sf (FY) > sping bevels. Rub and orth to boraish front view Showing guide against edge of {Re Teather o= cutismode. 26[LEATHER CUTTING SHEARS. (eons ‘There are many types of shears for cutting leather. The Super Shears are of medium size and will fit Inet honds, They will cut through ol leathers up to 2 oz. In thickness, though lighter weights ore recommended. Shears with the serrated edge will not slip while tung, Heovy-loty models will cut ony weight of {cathe incioding the heaviest kiting Vether The serroted edge should be on the flesh side, os it ieaves tiny marks The Super Shears are ideal for cuting suede, sof ‘garment-type leathers, etc. Almost any kind of o Eomplex pattern can be cut out ofthe soft leathers Thore are a variety of sharpening tools for scis fors on the market. How- fever, the shears can be Sharpened with an oil Stone as. shown at right, Apply oll to the stone and ‘work in a circular motion Along the beveled edge of the blade. Be sure you do not destroy the beveled edge that was originally made on the blade. Main- tain the same angle, Use the fine grit to obtain a keen edge. Repeat the ‘Operation with the oppo wre: site blade, foe shares ‘SHARPENING the SHEARS Although shears will cut heavy strap leathers, small curves are not practical te cut | prefer the Head knife for cutting any kind of strap eather hay J sirop sve 7,/ blade by pull ing the rouge board ovar the bev eled edge (le). Surface ‘of board mutt be flush with the bevelededge of the blade Serrated edges can ber shorpened with small jeweler’s file, trignguler shape. 2EDGE BEVELERS ‘These tools ore used to raund the edges of leathers of vory ing thicknesses, The Craftool EDGE BEVELERS are ovoilable in five sizes, No. 1 size can be used on 1% oz. 10 3 or leather (see “TIP” ot right) Use No. 2 on 410.6 0z,;No. Son 6 10 8 02; No, 4 0n 8 fo 10 02.,.and No. 5 on 10 oz. and heavier. This is only o general rule, os there are times you may desire o heavier or lighter edge bevel. Hold the work to be edged firmly on thebench with your — free hand. Use firm pres 7 sure on the tool, at the if proper angle. Use index finger as shown. Make bevels quickly. Agood bevel is indicated by continuous thread” from the beveled edge. Beveling 19S" craftool BEL EASE WoW Ww Ww Al Actual Size This sketch shows the proper tangle, from the side view. hese tools are designed 10 cut only when held at the proper angle (see the other Fostrations below), = [oro NOTE: Edge Beveling s usually the finol au Sep, offer all carving hos been com- ces pleted. The edgers limit the depth of the om fu. Burnishing edges; poge 6% ace 9s Stoning the 100 f Paints Aeproxinately a 28 Nye TIP: fot beveling hove ti eonere es ney hover grind off the wee of row) se a ie thon | [Bivond tth Sronty 1 rain Side Stops and belts ore Usvolly edged on both Sides lining leather Used, glue lining to Strap. Trim off excess then edge the lining WRONG EXAMPLES BELOW too sitio YZ Teel will skips IL aot catE EDGE BEVELERS. . continued TRIMMING WELTS. TRIMMING LINING ie 1 ‘The Edgers can olso be used for trimming excess waits from your projects, See page 75 of “The Art OF MAKING LEATHER CASES” Volume TWO, along ‘vith complete welt making ond installation. the Edgers con be used for trimming the lining out PF eipper slots, Instructions are given on poge 29 Gf ithe Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES" Volume WO, clong with complete zipper installing instrvctions. i. é 7 ‘The BISONETTE (Bissonnette) EDGERS were used by the torly sadelle and harness makers, They perform the same Fonction os the Craftool Edgers with one exception they con be puthed or pulled to bevel the edge. They Came ino larger selection of sizes the largest 2eing su Sble to edge the horn covers on soddles by pulling Light fold-gouges con be made in 202.103 | Ground the horn, much like using a potato peeler. We ff, leather by folding leather rightly over | present them here for those who may have some of these Bench, Hold securely andruna Ne. 40rNo. | fools and not fully understand how fo use or sharpen S eager down the edge at shown above. | them. Proc. ce on serap pieces fo determine proper sized edger set recs When pulling the Bisonette Edger, the hand will When pushing the Bisonete Edge itis feld ot we ia bt he ating sage he oppo When pushing he Bore oer cabin the set ofthe hole engages: Pusher ul he Crea Sengoget he cohg alge st toledges very auth the hole nearest the handle 2 _ a UU CYThe single line Creosers have been Used in the leathereratt rade for ‘mony years, Their main purpose is foenhance the edges of plain straps or other projects, The long side of the tool Is placed against the edge fof the leather to act as © guide. The shorter side makes the impression (see below). toa sie 7 stot ste Lean too! slightly outward when making the create (lef) Prepare the leather for creas: ing by rounding edges with edge beveler. Burnish the ‘edges (see page 69) Moisten edges with a domp sponge Place leothes on a hard surtace. Hold eave os shown ond push along edge seh fim prosaure, Use slight pressure Sgoins! cube edge (broken orrow). The (Bicn alga be mnoved bose and fr Sornish the Croused oreo Gs the lector Use the g creasers on the edges of billfold pockets, hohd- boge, belts, etc, 10 give the edges’ finished look 30 CREASERS The Craftool a\ Adjustable Creoser also makes creases ‘long the borders os wel fo: performing other func Hons (below). The tool tadjusis from zero toc full in width. Before using the fool, prepare the leather os Instructed of left, and below. Aajust the Creaser to desired width and push firmly along the edge. Hold os shown, not quite so straight yp os with the sin Palins crecter You an olsomove it back ond for The tool con also be held ot shown at right. This gives better vision for mok- ing porallel border lines. The Creaser, is also good for making guide Tines for punch ing lacing slits (below), ae = The Adjustable Creoser is ‘lee good for aking guide lines for rope & geometric stamping‘COMPASSES — ——— This ison old sodders tool that was designed for quickly scribing lines, circles, ete. The pin wos fight-tining so the compass would stay in ony potion te which the points were spread, making frvery fast and convenient io use To scribe or gouge cre, Fold woo! os shown, BS pot allow the pier pont [Silip The “terotchers fon ciso be vsed 10 \ gouge decorative daigns os suggested on ove TP: Hynde Hold the Scratch ond Patent Leather Compasses as shown below, 1o gouge. slong the edges. the pivot sides of the fools serve as 0 guide, at the edges. ws 7 SCNT ConA Se scent ow Pace a2 There are dozons of kinds of compasses and divide rs, some with specific purposes, Only two. tice moy be required for the leatherwarker. A few ‘examples, along with their features, ore shown fon this page. “Fine Adjustnent Kh Those dividers are good for scribing cices, guide lines, reteining @ measured distance, morking lac ing holes, ee The wing nut is Used tose he dis- tance, the adjusiment knob then sets the dividers fo very acura setngs yen ints foun Paint KC erchange ‘le Unit ac Tensbon Spring Fine Adjustnene Knob This compass operates asthe dividers above. It has 4 interchanging units; 3"scrotches” (gcuge points) & 1 sharp point for regular divider use. The "scratches" are used for gouging sewirg channels Incircies or along border edges. 4 This is the original sadder’ compass used inthe zodale ond hornens wade through he yore I wae designed for gouging sewing ceannelsslong bore der edges, of for tires, The “scrote (goging points) were interchongeatle, eld plse by he fel taew All sewing ba nt hand mochn thoule be sewn'in gouged channel fo protec the threads. . aFra (Craftool EDGE CUTTER and PUSH BEVELER the Craftool Edge Cutter is designed for cutting Fost, unt {orm lines along the edges of base It moles. uniform cut full "wide, Irwillonly cotta J S certain depth, minimizing the anger of cutting through the feather, unless iis very light weight This tool con be Uted In place ofthe creasers (page 30) 4 You desire a deeper, more pro- nounced border line. END VIEW HOLD THE EDGE ; CUTTER AS. SHOWN yj (A) Push cutter to commer, tip fool and press front edge down. (B) Join corner Cut with “heal” of eutier ‘ond continue cutting, Moisten the leather before cur ting. Apply down. word pressure, hold leather firmly while making the cut. Go over the cut to deepen i, but ALWAYS in the same direction. NEVER cut over o Tine in reverse direction 7 ‘The Crafteol Push Beveler can also be called o PULL beveler ‘or push OR pull, it works fequolly.os well twas designed {or fast, smooth beveling along cut border lines Ih works bast along straight of flowing curved lines. However, it can be used on some floral fond other designs. Since the too js used by hand, the impression will not Be os deep as with the Stomping bevelers. It is mos! Useful along border lines of bolts, billfolds, etc, for quick Tight beveling requirements. We show some of ifs uses on the fol: lowing page. fstoe Actual Sie Spe 27 C8 ae The beveling edge is lightly rounded for smooth beveling, The heel ond toe of thetoo! are important for corner baveling and detail work. The beveling slope is also slightly rounded to insure smooth beveling Before beveling, the Teather should be cased or moistened as for regular stomping. When beginning the bevel, lean the tool slightly as shown at fight. (continved)PUSH BEVELER... continued PusKING @ ® Z > pauing (A) The tool con be held os (8) More pressure can be (6 or pulling, use the hand position thownebove. Apply downward applied by folding the above. Now the te of the ol must be pressure formaking he bevels, Beveler os shown obove, down, and the heel up. Practice on scrap. pow To Bev. 8 come = oY // | & cs = re = aaa oa Pcs ht otto in he cama, AE YH evel foward it Path sty lot of donmmned the Saedn to we ore to ofthe ol fy nto te come. ‘A portion of o floral design is shown tt left, beveled with the Push Beveler. The orrows show the direction of the beveling Geometric patterns are more suitable for the Push Beveler (right). After beveling, a portion of the design is shown enhanced with the stomping 7 toole, at the top. | | | = \ ee ~ [Dae ooR Ga PUSH BEVELER (BeTow) ] Thisis an ideo! too! for quickly bevaling border lines prior to stornping the design, Daeper beveling can be made with this fool. Cut a piece of 1” wood dowel, bore hale in end. Cut off beveler; glue & force in dowel, Shope handle as shown, cat OFF asics me. HEAVY DUTY HOME-MADE PUSH BEVELER —spiscr of aetal tubing 33Craftool ADJUSTABLE “V" GOUGE HOLDING THE ‘GOUGE << pinccrion oF cur Grasp the tool with the thumb and the 2nd finger, of the sides. The index finger rests on the serrations atthe front ofthe fool. Squeeze the hand firmly to contol the cutting (ne Te COT whey Adjust the blade to the desired depth of the gouge. It is always \wise to test on @ scrap of leather firs In ig not necessary 10 dampen the leather. Hald tool firmly and ‘press tol flor against the leather os you move forward, making the gouge. Hold the leather down Firmly with your free hand. 34 Place tool against ruler dha ‘adjust ruler so center of the {gouge is on the fold line. On £ Tong gouges it may be help: {falta tape the ruter to he The Craftool Adjustable “V" Gouge is basicaly designed for Geuging te fold lines of yout leothererft projects The depth Fife gouge egueretby th srw ot teop, Theol wl rot gouge deepe than is preset position. Gouges ore usualy mode on the flesh side ofthe lester. Fllew the instructions ‘these pages for using This tol When not in use, lay the tool on its side... never on the blade. When storing, retract the blade within the housing by turning the screw clockwise. This will prevent damage fo the Cutting edges, which ore very dificult 10 sharpen, Te OPT Fee eX For folds, the depth of the gouge is usually obout ¥ the thickness of the leather, ilustrated in the three sketches above. Turn the top screw counter-lackwise fo lower the ov" blade (GOUGING STRAIGHT LINES te Rute Firely 7a Straight ae for mf ‘wide or flat ark Fold Line — = tm leatherCraftool ADJUSTABLE *V" GOUGE. . continued Sain ~ jn gouge in from the edge as suggested in stop (1). REASONS If you fefin sth edge tne hace he oof ay be held lowes han ne surece GF leather, and resuitin o deeper gouge ight al the star. Once the tol ie flcton the leather it cannot Pi thor complete the gouge os DOODLING WITH THE -V"_GOUGE ledge of bench and smooth the leather with the bone folder. Allow to dry[a vo sire THER GOUGING TOOLS seit = [ana] Traftood saoovte a The cutting bar af adjestae eo ‘shaw set Seren 9 i da bat NTR tag tte The cutting bar of the Stitching Groover has flot surface. This should be turned to the set serew to that the bar does not turn when grooving the leather. The slitching Groover is mainly designed for making channels o recess the sewing threads, See “The Art of HAND SEWING LEATHER” to determine distances from the edges, for grooving the sewing channels, Also see: “The Ar of MAKING LEATHER CASES" Vol 1 for many oer illustrations on the uses of this too. for gouging folds when making handbags, cases, etc. The gouge i Usually mode Ys depth of the thick ress of the leather, on the flest Side. Adjust by turning the knurlec ferrule The “"V" Gouge is on excellent 100 C | e ‘The Round Gouge can be used fo the some purpose, but Is nol fg00d as the?" for folds. Thi: Gouge con substitute for sewing rool oor Secor geuging tr suggested in the exemple: Shown below: Ast 0 the desiree sept Te ATE SSE] ee ee . Umea The Stitching Groover ond the Adjustable Round Gouge can also be used fo carve decorative designs, oF interior sewing channels as shown above. Turn ihe leather as required for teasier execution. The tools must bé used "free hana” 26 iain "v= GOUGE FoR FOLOs| ¥ iene Use o rule or stright edge to assist in ‘making stroight gouges for folds. Hold rule firmly with your free hand, fortape the rule 0 the leather([Hesrasrne CARTE oe TS] G) | eA ineeScarrtage 7 Sess hele a ree This tool is designed for achieving decorative designs along bor- ae, ders and other areas of your projects. It's most suitable for bil folds, key cases, book markers, albums, leather srops, et. will : take some practice fo make uniform impressions, the leather ee thould be moistened (not wel #o make the deepest end clearest gnbeheldas ff impressions. Practice on bits of lecther until you know when the Shown below. moisture i ight. i. od ae ate aprcrd. A ruler or other oe eee ccuones right: Apply sted, & teven pressure on the ‘wheel < of UN teeea ae ohowneot The photo below illustrates some examples for using the = Emlossing Wheels. Experiment with your own dasigns ) Single Sorder a Cowie order Use anal stanping tools to complete cor te ale shel } } } } Much greater pressure can be put on the wheel by laying your shoulder down on your hand, and pressing hard. This will produce deeper mpressions. Some practice is neces The Embossing Wheels can be Used with gold or silvar foil (lf. They show best on dark leather. Heal the wheel over on electric burner. Place foll on lsather, hola Gown witha sraight edge; be sure 6f your pasition. Use the shoulder pressure to make the best imprint 3 fo maintain control of the tool the elbow in close fo the body 7craftoo! Facncn touch} FRENCH EDGE TOOLS Aooron: Size Nout — be The French Edger has a multitude of uses. Its not used for rounding edges, since the bottom is flat. The long, flat surface {ef the tool makes it ideal for making smooth fat bevels clong the edge ofthe leather. It also acs a8 0 skiver to reduce leather thicknesses in certain areas. On this and the following poge, we will illustrate some ofits many uses. Also see "The frt of MAKING LEATHER CASES" Vol. and Hold the tool as shown below. ow 10 snore More control is maintained! with on page 93 the index finger in position illus. trated. Place leather on @ hor N 2 smooth surface to insure ever skiving & beveling ‘The sketches below illustrate the angles and widths of the bovaled edges ot reloted o the angles ofthe tool. The bevel is controlled by keeping the lower edge of the tool flat against the bench, and tight agains! the edge of the leather (at the bench). Study the sketches. TD VIO SHO ROWE The end views above show how much leather is removed depending on the angle fhe ol, Yall nati tthe sleeper ‘angles (60°) the edge will not “feather” As the angle becomes flatter, the edges can be feathered, af athe 10° example. The 45° ongle is used for the miter-oints (see at righ) 38 iustrations Aetel Size STRAIGHT = Fat fatten cumved ~ Flat Bette ‘The original French Edgers were mode both straight ond curved, in various sizes, The curved tods cllowed easier tkiving in some areas. The straight to do @ multitude of jobs. Any: tone having some of these old fools is ‘most fortunate. There still may be Some suppliers who sorry these tools. |—[[BeveL ing THE wiveR-gorwr_]— The miter-joint is used for making lecther cases and boxes. For details soe page 22 of "The An OF HAND SEWING. LEATHER IK yeu are not experi enced enough to bevel the 45° angle “py eye!” it might be helpful to scribe o guie line along the edge. Keep the lower edge of tool flo! ‘against bench ond leather. Hold too! firmly, de not waver! The tool must be shar! Guide tise a the[FRENCH EDGERS....continued oe & rode by skiving in \When leather Is 100 thick for the nop post, remove excess by plac: ing point of tool in hole and skiv- ing Ground it, 0s shown above. Flegh side RECESSING THE LEATHER FOR BUCKSTITCHING Gouge the guide lines about % the thickness of the leather. Use the edger to remove the leather within these ‘gouges. For complete instructions, see age 33 in "HOW TO BUCKSTITCH”” ‘Also see poges 31, 32, of that book on recessing leather on the groin side long with other uses of the French Edger. Camcave These tools ore made with o concave bottom and used uch of the edgers on page 28. They were made in various sizes, up fo %," fo serve the harness and sod- dlecy trade where the rounding of heavy lecthers wos fequired lined, make the "V” gouge as usual ot the fold. Use French Edger 1o remove extra leather ot both sides of she gouge, This accommodates the thickness of the lining leather to mate a better fol ‘The thickness of belt ond strap ends ean be removed with this foo. Bagin af one edge; advance to the other by overlap ing skives, Repeat skiing oe necessary {obtain a uniform thickness of the Larger suas ore os uel 3) for rounding the edges of © heavy leathers 07 saddles, ‘These tools are also ideal for trimming welts and Temoving lining leather in zipper areas. See pages 93 and 29, 115, of “The Art of MAKING is doubt if they ore sill manufactured. LEATHER CASES,’ Volume TWO, using the com- Suggested uses are illustrated ot right. mon edgers in ploce ofthis toolsee opposite page) ‘The MALLETS above are ideal for using on the saddle tools in the regular stamping procedures, and on the smaller geometr Hamp, The weight of the mallet Is important. Some craftsmen desire different weights o perform the same task. | personally pre- fer a mallet a litle on the heavy side. If] mallet is too light, it tends 10 “bounce” off the too, leaving « weak impression. More: force and greater effort Is then required to produce satisfactory results. Weight can be added to the mallet with lead fn the bottom of the opposite page. With the 1102. to 1402. mallets, you have enough weight to make good impressions in the leather without having to "pound! the tool. You can be ‘mote relaxed, 0s you con leave your elbow on the toble and trike the tool with o imple wrist action fon the mallet. Al of these “little things moke your leather stamping more productive ond Enjoyable, ‘ RAWNTOE MALLETS, NEVER stake 4 ‘STEEL TOOL WiTh A STEEL HAMMER: The 20 or, moles sitabe for use on most ofthe rund, oblong, ove) Grwve punches ond thonging chis Sis, A mallet should be Beaw ncvgh to force © punch through the leather withone Blow. is alee very good for stamping clea: Inpro af ho ke geomere ‘and oie large sodale stomps ‘os shown Strike the punches firmly 10 penetrate the project cleanly. Hold the punches straight up ‘and down. Be sure to have o cutting pod under the project (see the next page). teal ateing Pad The photo above shows the effecs of wear on the mallet heads, used by different persons, You should never allow another person to use your mallet, since ho two persons sike it in the same place.RAWHTOE_ RARER RAWATOE HAULS, Split Head — 15 Ibs. The slit head ofthe hammer above canbe Gpeved to replce the rowhde sking endo Shi good tool forthe lage drive ond boy {ebiong) ponchos, lis used 9s you would & femmer andy seers Fira, sturdy The mauls ot right ore made of pressed fowhide ond used extensively with the lorge cutting dies & very large punches ‘where @ lot of force is required. Be sure to hit the tool squarely. with the maul when BEFORE PUNCHING: Before punching wih he tools, you must hove frm Surfoce underneath the lacther ye sf ough not {O Jamoge tho cting edges of he tools Suggested Inoteriols ore shown ot let (1}(2)(3). In adation, Tissurface shouldbe placed on o very fem surface. Ipreero steel pate (0H you vse o Stee pate, be ‘Se you donot punch the fot through the cting pod into the sel Use ony one of he pods on he seal, gna fim, sturdy bench strap Cad Punch ‘ADDING WEIGHT TO THE MALLET Bere two 1" holes through molt os shown at right, Place mallet on ony Kind oF board Malt lead in on anh our ino the holes unl full When the lead hos cooled, ony spills or sacar can be ctor led ot With Slecrrcion’s tape, wrap completel Ground the head to cove he lead andl prevent from loking out se mide Bhotor opposite page) ae Nites Son Wihen ine ee Whe tear ailouhen seers ean Oe he eee t ose a'STRAP_END PUNCHES f The Half Round punches tre ideal tor Quickly ‘aonaing the ance! | trop Mm oneinat os wee nese Td anes Konica yousres Teiutelisinedworten Jou should hve ss mony Fen eclaal er yur nests TWH To SHAPER RL PUNCHES. n-ne page 99 See below for “making” special half round sizes ‘The original English Pot punches (A) visches will vim stop were mode in 2 sizes: From "to 2° ha Other models have since been manu ee ao typeset — foctured as shown in the photor i He above. These lols are used 19 point rch, the sop ends “ring et ~ wes ae The Multi-Width eee ‘width woe | sree inked edge 5 illustrations above show how the Multi-Width punch is used on various widths of strap ends, Other uses for the half rounds are shown above. See page 97,."The Art of ita tearien CASE vl iar sing et | ZA | ENGLISH PONT | ‘SPECIAL HALF ROUND SIZES eile RL allet Nee eS WO Very small holf rounds can be made rain ce from any of the round drive punches, by arinding off as above. CAUTION: Keep “7 Water running on the tool, while ging ing, s0 you de net lose the temper in the steel. When using the Holf Round or ig English Point punches, 20 thom ok irom the ond o the sop s0 G clean cuts made atthe point (otor) REMEMBER ... Always keep a cuting pod under the pro ect when using the punches. See page 41 for Suggested cutfing pod materials and punching Suggestions.BAG (oblong) PUNCHES Ta | PT a a The Bag Punches are made in several styles, some of which may no longer be manufactured. The “apen side” was made in 1 sizes: "to 1%" The “Ach” 18 sizes. 12" fo 2" The “tube,” 7 sizes: 14" 10 1" All are made with a tapered clearance. They are designed for quickly punch: ing slots in the leather for stops of varying widths, buckle tongue slots, et. (see page 10 for alternate ways of mak: ing slot), Actually, one does not require 100 mony sizes for (general leather work, mainly the sizes from 14" 01" cutting Pad Remove the cap from the tube punch to empty the cbttings. CAUTION: Ba sure to empty the tube before itis ful, or you may split the tool. Make o practice of emptying i ffen, Use cowhide mallet or Punch con rawhide hammer on the beusedtocu! [arger punches. Try to 4 slot in @ case drive the tool through the thot is already project with one blow of completed, Insert the mali on the punch. block of wood and a cuting pad inside the cose {fo equal ils thickness) as @ firm backing for the punch, ‘A few examples for using the sts are illustrated above .. indi cated by the arrows, The 8og Punch is an extential fool forthe con Stuction of cases, handbogs, rifle scabbards, etc. Dozens of uses are REMEMBER ... alwoys puneh into a cutting shown inthe books: "The A” of MAKING LEATHER CASES" «Vol. Pad: See page 41 times ONE & TWO. 43‘ROUND and OVAL ORIVE PUNCHES oF S106 ovat trophy Style out LD Me oo Oval a tls should te ned cia nen aie phy Bicee Sse Nova ’ No. Punch holes on a quide- Tine, Insure proper spac ing by plocing the end tbe tn the lost hole punched, ‘As with ol Drive Punches, always use rowhide os & driving force. Also always use a cutting pad fand fem support under heath. See suggestions on page 41 Use A STEEL HAMMER ‘greet roo / As illustrated, there ore many types of Orv Pci. Al po punching holes! A= This tool Punches four holes ata time. ‘he punching ubes cre replace: ble. The tube sie is about No 0.8—This punch wos made in 12 sizes: Oo 12 (no #11). C— One of the older too, this was made it 1B size, 00 to 16. D~-These very heavy duty punches were mode in 42 sizes cut hes from Sia" fo a" E25 sizes OC to 1" Atone time, I Eelieve this tol wa: also made in larger sizes. OVA| PUNCHES. F—-These fools were made zee. 110 16, G—-Node ino varely 0 tes. Arch punches are al for heavy uty use Remove the ccp to empty the cut 198 of the lube punches before they are full, or you may risk splitting the tol oe > - Single or Doble leop Lace For thote using holes t loce their project the 4-in-1 punch con be used clong th straight edges, A light guide line should & used. This too! punches the heles more accuratel ‘and rapidly than could be accomplished with the sir gle punchese photo below shows the ROUND DRIVE PUNCHES pal punch sizes. of different manufactur- Pipe to the ther. ean! Size This is an economical punch set with inter- GEE = : ; De ree acts ’ Sh angeobie uber finely inn an Ae ea: 4 a yo Change punches. NOTE. Some tubes may be a bit ugh on the outside, They con be smoothed with 0 stone and pol rine git ame haute coes ES. 2 pee cant" cot 2000000 00( JOOOVE This is @ very heavy duty’ set with imerchangeable Bunches in9 sizes: "0 |" The punches thread to the handle. The center pin ejects the drcle when the punch has cut through the leather. Since the cutting tube has @ blunt ‘oper, heavier driving force is required to punch through the leather. This, in turn, leaves 6 taper onthe outside edge ofthe hale, which in same cases is not desirable After completing a cose, you may wish t9 install snaps at the boon. Sip o block of wood and leathers} inside case 10} inter. Punch Roles, To install snaps see page 1 "The Art of MAKING TERIFER CASES! Vol i a holes in curved oreos aif Caitocut witha cife, when iigecng i cs(lean rcs] HAND PUNCHES (Corsrome rae) — Rotary Purch Ib Wad When punching holes in leather, it will aid by twisting the hond to right or left, os you squeeze the handle ofthe too. ih Left hand There are many Aetaiore ram, Rotary Punch punches. The rotary tools lock tad Interchange in place with a able tees ratthet fo tecure yh each position. a The frames of - the economy punches ore made of cold: Fee rolled steel; > Single tubes poeson| ¥ snerchangesh fools are hand: S forged steel a The Professional Punches are durably mode for lifetime of Use. The Single Spring Punch is made with 3 frames. One frome will interchange tube sizes 000 fo 7. One frame will fit No. 8 tube only, The other frome will interchange with 9 & 10. For our personal use, we have a frame for each tube. This makes it foster for professional work. The small tubes ‘may have a flat on each side and can be removed with © {mall end-wrench oF pliers. Most tubes 7p have o hole and can be removed with tan Allen wrench (see page 45), t, Plugged hole 1 te x TIPE Aer pein Yl in wt ln, pum When holes are hard topunch, dueto heavy leathers or yeu do nat seem to hove enough srength, place handle on the bench os shown. This gives added Ie squeezing with the hand. Simulto neously, twist the lecther with the other hand. You will find the holes much easier topunch. if the tube is dull, shorped it Insiuctions on page 91 " 46 NEVER use o hand punch as drive punch! You ore Fikely 10 damoge the tbes. If holes ore not punching leanly, it could be thet the anvil needs filing. File Smoothly so the cutting exit ofthe tubo moke comHOMERS E. Blunt fod locks Claw (eM ‘Aside from driving tacks, et., the opposite end of the Saddler’s Hammer is also used to form leather in difficult aress (such os contle bind. Inge, under the cheyenne roll, etc.) and other hard-to reach ploces. A few suggestions are shown below. The Carpet Hammer is used for driving small naile and tacks, burting copper rives, etc The hammer can be used for burring copper rivets. (A) "Set" burr on rivet (8) Snip off end of rivet, Burr over with the hammer ©. an be used « Soe pg 8 in “The A of Cat Wel The Saddler’s Hommer is ideal for assisting in adher- ing gusset ores and pocket edges difficult 10 feach, See the gadget bag in Vol. I, MAKING LEATHER CASES: The Carpet Hammer can be mode info @ Sadler's Hammer by weld- ing up the claw, thea grind it smooth and polish on a buff ‘whee! ing Hommers are indispensable in leatherwork The Cobblers Hammer should be a part of every crafteman’s collection of tools. It's ‘most usaful for making sharp felds, odher: ing cemented pars together, tapping over hand stitches, lacing, and wells. See the many applications ofthis hammer through= out the pages of "The Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES" Vol. Il) ond other publico- tions. Never drive nails or tacks with this hammer, os i may pock-mark tre face. The face must remain smooth and polished Place Leather Alwoys moisten leathers before felding. Top with the hammer to make a sharp fold. Do not ‘pound the leather so hard as to crack the leather on the grain side Use the end o the hom- met for making tight folds ‘round buckles and dees, 18 shown. Be sure the end fond face of the hammer fre smooth & golished. aTse 0 a 5] = ————— — (1) Ordinary screwdriver (2) Bore two Yio" holes @) File, or grind out slot (4) Use @ flexible shaft tool tand grind depressions on teach side (8) Grind shape os shown, (6)Grind sides down and round all edges. Polish on buffing wheel ‘The end of the tool is fairly well pointed, but not so sharp a8 to Make the Tapestry Awl os instructed of ght. TACING AWS Lacing Awls have been used in the soddlery ond harness trade for yeors. They con also be use. ful In the erating of other proj Polished ects. We show two homemade dors models thot you may find of use insome of your work — Lannie a TCT HA] — ihe ee ~ , Ze <” ® fa ‘Arouh you aan aly tbe making Hon Cola, wt wart ts How the Cir Al att You may be aie au simaa eu fr ater projet sys, te hal pone its own The imate nh 1 oped up (BP seh ta ih a i ft punch down tru eli Rama rms, pl stich tt Wiha Als sta ext it It cin ey an eps (AM. The A ao wor ling ed ing in ir ‘The swell covers (saddles) and stirrup covers ore laced ina similor manner (left). Here, the holes ore punched after the leather has been pre-fitted. This fype of locing is used for @ butt-jait, You do not want the sharp edges on the ow! here. Use the homemade tool, or blunt the edges ofthe collar ow! Fre-punched 1/8" slits TAPESTRY NEEDLE AML g7 TaPeSinY MCEDLE — Actual Size a. woe rat VotumeDv, The Att Kine LEAT ER CASES Place the needle in @ vise; the eye down {protec from vise jaws with piece of leather ‘on each side). Drive the handle about" down on the point of the needle.Natog Lander Ca for eaantins oF making sevonthJa Pa No leather shop i complete without o few pois of pliers Pers con actos Gn extra hond where he fin or cannot reach. The neele-noss pliers ad with Toco prorecs, Some suggestions ore shown on thi oe Contle Pliers, @s the name implies, are used to form the leathers tight Ground the perimeter of the conte of @ sod: dle. The jaws are smooth, so as not to mar the leather. They fare very useful for other projects such os shaping the leather handles; left. (See "Tho Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES’ Vol. TWO, using these pliers for making handles). ddo not know if these pliers ore sill manufoctured. Check ‘with yout local saddle shops, hardwore, orto) suppliers for tony Kind of widemouth pliers with smooth jaws cantte Sal NOTE See step 6, page 94, “The Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES” Vol. TWO... for using these pliers in welt construction of cases For fomiy Lember Con, a8 Vo "Tee Art of Making Laer Cae” Pocehing Hoke a ta st ea com SLOTS: page 43, HOLES: ome 4. ‘There may be times when you have completed @ case and forgot to attach straps oF BUCKIeS pliers are used for pulling tacks, (ber the eee eee cuit above, Tere re \, forriveting. leathereraft work The Needle-Nose pliers can assist in threading loce in the aye of the Tapestry Nesdle, as sug gested ot lef. Topesiry Avi; opposite poge. =DRAW GUAGE Guage tar er apitetoal ar oy ocLUHE Node te oxewoed age 96 These tools ore made of durable construction for @ lifetime of heavy duty ute, The contoured pistol grip is designed for hours of comfortable work. 1 do not know if the deluxe model i still manufactured, this is my personal tool. Ihave overlaid i with sterling sil ver, set with rubies (fo practice my slver solder tech Riques years ago). The all metal model is stil in pro. duction and available through vorious suppliers. cule straps 14" to 4” wide from lightweight to the the noe Heovies! ethers; with eose. At with al cuting tals i Keep the blade sharp! Before cuting straps, cut o straight edge on the leather (ebove). Place straight edge on inch of two over the edge of the bench, As the cut lengthens, seep ‘grasp the end of the strap teen ‘withthe Ieft hand, shown ney ff right, Hold firmly with by ting the left hand as you pull ‘wh the draw gouge. As the end Cut lengthens, slide left fe de a i regrip. This procedure should especially be used bn lightweight leathers. ‘As the cut is made, press Begin the cut at the edge of the the end of the thumb leather. Keep the side of the gauge against the leather 10 tight against the edge of the leathgr keep it against the gauge ‘8 you pull with the drow gauge. bar (block arrow), ‘me i 1 seo sgn presure w 50DRAW GUAGE... .continued fase For the bes quality belts, Ue the bu or "tall end of the hide for billet fends. This s the frmest port ofthe leather and Wil Bear mora strain ana weg ADWAYS ot ells ond srape length wim otthehige. CUTTING THONGS (Gtarter strip) te the wish Press tha Fiealy vnaee the or! BS Lecther thongs, laces, ec. can be cut from % oz, leathers with the draw gauge from a'circle of leather. Cur e “starter” strip {ebove). Fit the strip inside the blade. Press thumb down on the Teather and begin cutting by pulling the strip withthe left hand. Do not tty a cut with the right hand... hold it rigid... PULL the leather through the blode! A'9" circle wil make over 12. of lace %" wide. Stretch the lace to foke out the kinks, This is not recommended for saddle stings .. they should be cut from a straight edge ‘SHARPENING THE BLADE The blade can be sharpened by holding with the pliers, Use © small fone (right), or use the edge ols large stone (oslow). Shorpen both sides. ALTERNATE: Clamp the end in @ vise use small sto Strop the blade AWAY from the cutting edge SAFETY nore: When laying down the drow ‘gauge, ploce it upside down on the bench os shown, 19 prevent fceidental injury on the point of blode. Get yourself in the habit of doing this everytime you lay the toa! down. 51STRAP CUTTER (Wood) This tool is on advanced model of the STRIPT EASE. it uses the injector rozor blade. The second bar (on top) ‘odjusis up oF down tothe thickness of the leather to be Cut, thereby eliminating the use of the right hand thumb. It also eliminates getting cut by the razor blade. it cuts straps from zero up to 4” wide, Will cut light leathers & up to 12 02. thickness. Coeveted £718. cutting fae Views above show the bors vpide - down. View at right shows how blode fits behind the serew, hold ing it securely in place. Loosen fe . screws fo insert the blade, then "de tighten, The wing nut screw goes into the threaded washer, Both cutting edge tendsof the bar should be adjusted tothe some depth before cutting, | 90110" vi See below feteal Shee oe f Tin 7 > eauolize the bors (close ogee tighten the wing ‘ut. Loosen either screw at right, hd slip bor (inthe slit) down on the blade. Reversd the operation 10 Spread the bars, 82 ving we (i) Doble Bar Je sor al sey | he “sy Qi as the hand fore fm gp. z= Doable Bar fits here The wing nut on the end of tne tool is loosened to slide the gauge bars. The large wosher fie against the screw end and halds the bars securely when the wing nuts tightened, a Adjust the bors to the desired leather e a ry into the handle, Adjust the desired wit of the eut and tighven the front wing rut Cut straight edge on the leather. Place the leather ‘over the edge of the bench, far tenaugh fo clear the ends of the bars, Begin the cut os above Press the flat side of the tool ageins! the straight edge ofthe leather, and moin- fin this pressure as you cantinue the cut (continued) s Straight Faye of TeatherSTRAP CUTTER... .continued ‘as you continue the cut, grasp the frop with the free fiend and keep ten- sion on the strap. stortgg et When cutting very lightweight leathers, first meks 0 'storting” cut os Shown in (A) above. Slide this strip between the blade and the tool ond ‘continue cutting os above. Always keep ten fon on the eut strap. This forces the leather fagoinst the tool to moke uniform width cuts lang the edge. cele Attoe Leather to The STRAP- CUTTER will eut loces from very light leather. Follow the exact procedures as shown with the draw gouge.on page 51 With the bors adjusted correctly, the thumb pressure is not required. STRIPT EASE (Wood) The STRIPT EASE wos originoly designed in (about) 1980, czan inexpensive “Grawgouge’ forthe hab vist At thot time it had o weoden dowel for Randle, We show how this ool can be modified {Page $4) to moko nore comforoble ond easier 1 e: This fe good foal for euting laces and rope up 2 fh mah The njetorraor blade ‘Sensly replaceable, when dul by lessening the Shot ero othe end of te gauge ber The blade {oh be fumed over o ure the wer a3 the edge shen the upper Ys dl ‘The adjustment is simple: Loosen the wing nut and slide the bar to the desired setting; tighten wing hut, A screwdriver may be required fo assist in tightening. The STRIPT EASE is held as with the STRAP CUTTER. However, when cutting straps or faces, the thumb must drop over the side t0 hold the leather dawn against the bor. The double bar of the Strap Cutter eliminates this. (continued) 53STRIPT EASE. . continued steatoht When cutting straps (with any of the tool) frst cut © straight edge on the leather. With firm leather, begin the cut with the STRIPT EASE on step 2, page 50, ond step 1, page 52. As with all sap or Face cutting, use the fre hand to “pull” on the stop while the cutis being made. This keeps tension on the srop, forcing it intathe side ofthe fool resulting Jn more uniform cuts, The MODIFIED STRIPT EASE é The photo ot righ! shows how we have coded o handle fond immed the fend for better fitting 10 the hand The top edge hos been shoped so that the thumb can press against the leather much easier Remove the % govge bor \ Bais hee in the bottom atthe \\S- Single shown. Glue the dowel in place, Cut off the hondle end (st Cut) illustrated on the drowing cbove 1 w smooth. Al (above). ‘ove uniform cuts, 54 Second Cot at angle of arrow Moke 0 2nd cu off the end, a8 above. Now round the'cuts off and shape the lop ‘edge as jn the above photo. Sandpaper sond off the side ot Front of foo! SON: When pulling on the lace, pulling against this area aids in making Straight ge When cut ting laces {rom “very lightweight leathers, first make 9 “sorting” cut a8 shown in (A) ‘above. Place this strip between the blode and the tool. Grasp the star- ing end and continue cutting Alwoys keep tension on the lace with the free hand cleele ‘Aiton Leather to rm Freely der Follow the exodt procedures on page 51 for tutting loce from circle, Hold the tool rigid and Dullthe lace through the blade to cut the lace. A 9" Eircle will make about 36 fof Vt lace, fete ay Sasin fr FOLD Teo] comfortable pistol grip. and fits the handmuch better or Control. Put the wing nut on the top,TACING NIPPERS yk iat | The nippers ore also ideal for cutting the lacing slits for feather handles, after they are formed. A good example is, shown on page 11 of “The Art| of MAKING LEATHER CASES,” Volume TWO. 2 When cutting angled slits (below) hold the fool at about a 45 degree angle. Pie ang, HT S MZ souce its S 8 Weel tec? TACING TIPS (beTow) USING THE NIPPERS This is @ precision tool fr punching 4" slits in leather Yu wil find this tool indigpesable inthe ‘making of many of your loced projec: Some o is mony vses ar lusreted below. When mok- ing hand tags o cones to be laced, the slits are usually prepurched before fnstaling the gus sets, After the gussets have ten cemented in ploce, Use the nippers to repunch through the bog and the gue Thief {2 good replacement tool for tmathods shown insteps 2 & 3, page 23, in “HOW TO BoaSntct: Lacing in the bottom is an alternate for hand Sewing bottoms, shown in The Art Use the nippers (same o5 cove) fr cutting slits in tubo: far cases for lacing inthe bottoms wnt cane a Nipper ple i SETS fis Lacing Wiggers Doable rows stagger steel Weel: laces te nas wo wheel racoeetectet es aes font together betes Illustrations above show how your locing can be finessed by spacing the slits closer together. This tliminates the gaps between the stitches, fully covers the edge, and makes a more pleasing Sppecranee. | hove never liked to see large gaps between stitches on laced projects. To'me, this is. very amateurish work. The double whip lacing is o voriation of the single, Here, double row of sits ‘Sused. The 2nd row of wheel marks are spaced between the let, Lacing i continuous through Ist tow, 2nd row, Ist row, 2nd row, er. Notice the tighter, more pleasing effects of the double loop Facing {left example). 553-70 ron ‘ron The Thonging Chisels have many more uses than simply punching slits in the leather for lacing or bucksttching. There are enough sizes to accommodate almost any job Reh Bia ARS neee at een. ey he uippetons perp e ; ees py pe USING THE SINGLE PRONG CHISELS When using any ofthe chisel, « light guideline should first be scribed with the dividers = ys {) (3152 Use Chisel at alae of each el ark <—vioss ie \ wet (| Jie rein ty ° =] | | o meeteenede Loe ys a oe ota ae The ee tie vata diene | mie chives A GZ co ue fee se be roe 5 ae os oat eet ecient trscrenteeteenet eects Une angle prong chine fof corners and for curved siear 6 ‘reas (below). : guarcn Qeaytice ao} jet a A as case, We | eer Hold tools os shown above fond sivike shorply with o cutting pad (3) and o firm = suppor (4) under the project cat oat ioe Use for cutting out smell areas of a design & slits for pronged hardware 56 Review page 41THONGING CHISELS. ..cont inued Single Prong Remove the tool and move over. Place the Ist prong in the las slit, ond punch again, TAN cee | punch corer sli frst. Space the first Fintirom corner) the same width o3 the chisel blade. Begin punching long the guideline. Fromples below illustrate erious methods of lacing feiges of leather together for but joining: aR oo mast secs) See BUCKSTITCH” other uses of the Chisels, and com: plete instructions for VY 2 2 Ua (earn came} Continue punching to the coxner. If slits do not come out properly spoced (arrows), use a sirgle prong fo adjust the remaining spaces (step 4). Although the three single slits ore closer spaced, it will nt be Too ev dent after the project is laced. Con. Finve punching as in step | avcieo case Use the ongled chisels the some os withthe straight smolitpronged chisel , iz “HOw TO for fer rally Betkstitching the et many projects =" “SHARPENING THE CHISELS =e Sharpen the s angie chisels on - the edge of the baa sone, one prong E Sho time, Main Pi inane ofthe Bisa sine gutting 088, tee usa Floors for snarRen Pe pny the sroight chisel E bo swre te maintain = wy ‘the angle of the cut- _Strop each of the ores Megtdlige, Work protge indivi = bale ee Sop os Sally on the et with tha swivel Srepding| board Enife blades on igh’) pogeThe LACEMAKER = 4 i a 4 Ye a6 do. Sag" See al see g piles loces as shown in the sketches of right. You can a make the laces from small ctcles of leather, or Sigurew zl {ut them from straight or curved edges. I will LeA7HeRs' ae make about 8 ft. of %" lace from a 4” circle. = i — isi suor 2nd SLOT Ge 7 mt ay ‘CHANGING THE BLADE ]— sae Wire Hing Ss Laces can be made from odd shaped pieces by cutting them in a rough circle. Cut o 114" hole inthe center (above) Scie! the proper vith slot for thickness of feather being used “rele For easier storing {in soft, thin leather) hold as shown in step |. Push Nose Fliers cutter forward until small bit of lace appears beyond the back of the cutter. Make 0 tapered cut when starting the lace, he Bade To replace, or adjust the bode for wide or narrow lace, slide the wire ring DOWN ot the bottom, ond OFF at the top. Insert the blade in desired slits and replace the rings to former positions. Use the proper slots to conform with {he thickness of the leather. Grosp the end of the lace As you continue the cond pull, allowing the cut, regrasp the lace Teather 10 rotate. Do not close To the cutter. Con. fy fo turn the leather tinue pulling through the info the blade. PULL the cutter Tip the leather os lace leather through the show! to allow freer rotation, blode. Continue until you have run out of leather. 58‘The LACEMAKER. . continued LACEMAKER also works very well on Birgit curved edge agin cv ioe a very Ligh eat alow and ot ight Place on exge ricnch cr shown in he skeces ee Pret G 2 whee ae Loce, cut from a circle (opposite page) will have to be sireightened. Moisten loce ond pull through hands, tr over the edge of the bench fo remove the kinks. a THE LAGE TRE, Ace MATERIAL. yarn 2" Vat wooo: ‘Lock OF wood’ 2x Bx 34" 45 tence mate 2) (1) Drive 0 razor blade into the end grain ofa block of wood, at about « 45 degree angle. About %" should protrude, (2) Cut two pieces of leather (A&B) from the some leather as the lace. Tack (A) in place first, up fgzinst blade. Place lace agains! (A) Fit (8) tight against lace; tack in place. Remove lace. (3) Sew a biock oF hardwood (C) up agains! blade, at one end only. Screw down foity tighi, for siff movement Point 000W ends lace and sive off (5) Swing piece (C) back up ‘egains! the blade. Hold down with the left hand and pull the lace. Repeat staps 4and 5 to bevel the other edge. To bevel heavier lace, parts LY (ais) most be cot Hom the rome heavier material Adjust (8) to fit the width of the lace. Swing piece (C) bock, os obove. Place lace between (ABB) with the Pointed end sticking out as ilusteated above, meeSPLITTING WACHINE and LAP_SKIVER Although it i called ¢ Splitting “Machine it isoperated by hand. There are many types of spliting machines available through various Suppliers. This fs my personal machine (on ‘ld Osborne) thot is much older than I, and will certainly last the ret of my working life. [As well at skiving 100 uniform thickness, you fon make “lop” tkives (tapering skives) os when you may wish to join two straps Together, or skive @ strap down to 0 feather edge. Twist hand counterclockwise 10 valock; pull back. Insert isthe between the Blade ond whee 6 I you wish to skive off the thickness of a strap end, uth the strap through up to the edge ofthe blade ihre you wish the skive to begin, Now push the Randle forward until the roller makes snug contact swith the strap, cerned Now, begin moving handle forward simulta neously poling on he sap to begin the sive. The trier Eor holds he letber coon fe auto Unt form sives 0K = RY ae wen Handle Aiter skive, 1s have reached the desired depth ofthe ‘eck he handle so the remainder ofthe sive {nile onifor Pll he sop rough fe complete The'shive, Unlock the handle and poll # bock to be teody forthe nent shive.eontinued)Steady PULL on Lap tkve, or skive fo feather edge, Continue simultoneous operation until he skive is make 2 |oP 3kive, or apoge, The moverentof completed. Some practice will be required 10 path hands must be simultaneous. become proficient aes} ‘est —=a = Sor wives + eater" Ss = oe —— When nwo straps ore to be joined, skive them az above. Never slive on the fin side, os thot sho stongest port of the leather, ae SHARPENING THE BLADE. When you wish to reduce the thickness of the entire strap, moke the first skive about 4" 106" os instep 4. Turn the strap around, put the skived ena in the epliter. Push the handle down and lock it on the skived end. Now pull the remainder ofthe strap through the spiiter. Loosen the bolts to remove the, blade Hold the bevel ofthe cutting edge flush wit the stone do not waver! Apply pressure with thé lett hond 6 you move the blade In'o excular motion. YoU will Strapthe blade by pushing the rouge baard AWAY have to work the ends atthe edge ofthe stone. {rom the cuting 0496 a8 shown above none rection only. o6 ‘SPLITTING MACHINE (No. 1790) ———_ = or Blade a enter of ROUGE ‘Assemble machine as shown at right. Fasten securely telbench. (A) Adjust the forword slop screws to center of the roller sot the cutting edge of the blade, (8) Lock in place with the locking nuts, —f ‘Adjust roller height with the two vertical adjustment screws (C) for desited thickness of the leather (after skiving). Be sure the roller is level with the blode Se loeh side op — faler Push roller lever forward and insert fe leather under the blade ond over the roller. If you wish to skive the {ull length of the strap, follow steps 4 & C, pages 60, 61. Lap skives (page 61) cannot be made with # machine, [ suarcnne ] ‘fr otter Release the lever (from step 3) and pull the strap fi ly into the blade to moke tre skive, Practice first on scrap leather 10 insure proper thickness. Repeat step | each time caller haight is adjusted Rolier must center under the blode REDUCING THICKNESS OF TACING LEATHERS. Jae th, Both Hans oCUTTING NIPPERS Eocoom ] ao APPS] Cutting Nippers play @ vitel port In leotherwork. Some time in the course of your leathercraft work, you will find a need for the eut fing nippers. A few of their uses tre illustrated on the lower port ofthis poge. The END Nippers, with the com: pound leverage, ore excelient for Cutting off excess lengths of the copper rivets, escuicheon pins, ttc, where exira pressure is nec feseary. This requires less hand srength ever The SIDE Nippers are good for removing snaps oF fives, either for replacement or when you wish 10 Shorten the length of Belts or sraps, Force the tool betweon the leathers, with the cutting edges own, straddling the snap post. ‘The compound leverage END Nippers are idea! for cutting aff excess copper rivets. Use the side of end rippers to cut off the Fipper teeth, See page 30"the Art of MAK ING LEATHER CASES” © Vol. iI for complete \\ information on mak. fag and installing Zippers bly Shortenes Post™ we ‘SHARPENING THE NIPPERS The posts of snaps and rivets con be shortened, os illusiated above. Use o neil that will just slip inside the post. Push itall the way in. Hold os shown and it aff ofthe desired length. Cyt only through the post metal. Turn, to complete jhe cuts ttound the perimeter. Use @ center punch, snap Setter, (lightly) to reshape the inside ofthe post, os the cutting action will hove crimped it inward. sea smell fe sone & work oar \ the beveled cutting edge. Be sure to maintain the original Bevel Use a fe Girto complete the shorpening. Pol sh Sin erocus cloth wrapped around the gsLEATHER STRIPPER ‘The LEATHER STRIPPER will cut stripe from ¥4" to 3" wide. It has 25's" spacers; alternate black and white, Each spacer holds @ blade, which allows you to cut one to 24 sripe ata fime in V4" multiples The knife blades will cut all leathers from skiver up to "fa oz. in thickness. The spacers have self-aligning recesses and shoulders fo allow stacking without the bolts in place. You can cut any length of fringe, laces, belts & straps. Blades are easily changed and con be reversed when they become dull The conversion kit has 16 spacers (black) and 17 spacers (white) which ollow you o Sx HON SST FnAcatind nocaNG Nt FINESSE” Other suggestions below. coo — cares 32 TSING THE STYLUS J USING THE DEERFOOT — .. seed for yf tal wrk Io Fg Cong See se 11, 38, i “FIGURE CARVING FINESSE RAST HRING BESTOAS 10 USING THE SPOONS 2 Ni em tens (igure Carving Flows") Fomning cout SuTPRLNG rth Cena UUs Sere | Te WncAbAO0 eOELIRG AOD THE Frgure To SET He em aSSENG PLUG PLACE FIGURE CARVERS ‘toad tem the ook: “Fhe Coy Fs”. ec sey Too pope for she many iy te Maing To, a la troopout took CRAFTAID DESIGNS fr PEAR BIRDING (em, Ao 0 en ae nThe locking hofts are idea! for quickly changing different aw Blades. the common hondle ‘must be used for individual awl bblodes, os once set in the handle they are impractical to remove. General information is given with the blades ot right os 12 their suggested uses. Also observe suggestions OMON AM. HOLE —— (ery sharp paint) (iat, blunted point) ing vp lacing holes in difficult great. This tool is ‘extremely useful for the locing projed in “The Art of asa HTT) Diawnd Shape + HANDLES and AWLS| Tor heavy seitye Good for 0 ack wa 10 bake "HOW To BNEESTETC secu Use the fid SEWING LEATHER For owl for open: MAKING LEATHER CASES.” Vol. I, page 98. Cave Gatch lela The scratch awl is good for scribing accu- rate pattern lines around templates and long straight edges. Also useful for locating The SEWING AWL should fit in the heel of the hand (arrow) for eosier, comfortable vewing, If is 109 long, cut off some of -he end (below) Rasp the end round and sand smooth pin ond rivet holes, Tm ist thaneel on back side of TIPE Fratton the sid of handles so thay alll rot ral off & the » late Pole your aw! blades when notin use by sting 0 hele ino pleco heavy saddle or harness iecther. Place ion the blade when you ore fin ished enwing 1o put awl blade in the han: dle, clamp in a vise. Hom- ‘met the handle down on the Bock end of blade. Be ture you are aligned stroightE (acrorm (Lock=SEIEEM) SEWING AMES (ers Gare-— < ) These SEWING AWLS use the same stitch (lockstteh) 08 @ sae Mschine, only you de Irby hand. The needle pierces the Weiter fom tRe Front comyng te thread Through othe back [aaah o loop is formed: The end ofthe fread posses TeeLai Re opis forme the lockanich when the needles tiitdlgar. oth ows shown sew inthe some manner. Study the exploded views of bth loos AWLFORALL (lef); The end cop screws off o store wrench and ‘xtra needles. Remove the spocl and run thread through hole Taside spool chamber ond out hole in chuck, Pull out slack thread. Inver needle in chuck with groove on same side that the thread! comes off the spool, Run thread through the eye of the needle. Threod must be in the groove of the needle. Run fend of thread through the chuck exp, tighten cop on chuck with wrench. You are now ready fo sew. SPEEDY STITCHER (right), Remove end cap. Run thread inside Shamber and out through chamber hole. Insert spool in cham for pull out the slack thread and replace end cop. Wrap ercce} Ground tension post (left 10 eight) and poss end under the thread from the chamber hole. Pull up tight under tension Rest und run thread in handle slot and out hole at grooved Plo of chuck. Place needle in chuck, with groove paralleling Efvove in chuck Run thread through needle eye; pull out all SISm gun end of thread through the chuck cop. The threod Aer be in the groove ofthe needle. Tighten cap on chuck, You ‘ore now ready to sew. Prepare the projec for sewing by gouging fe sewing channel ond marking with © Stitching wheel, NOTE: I would be wise to ttanp your grajeet feview "The Art of HAND SEWING in the Stitehiny Worse LEATHER” detailjng the methods of pre- te secure, shile tvina paring the leathers for sewing, sexing begins on th ex! page BYok thread ot f 0 Z5O ET) tb rest tt With 12 of thread beyond needle eve, stab the first hole. Now pull out enough thread to double the length of the sewing to be done EXAMPLE: IF you fore sewing around both edges of « belt When sewing with the AWL FOR ALL, position the ‘with a ofa langth of 30”... you will need to thumb on the spool, firmly, for locking stiches pull out 60” (for one edge) ... plus 60" for the tnd loosely for releasing more thread. The tension other edge, making a total of 120° The remaining post on the SPEEDY STITCHER automatically takes illustrations will show the needle only, enlarged for clarity of the instructions, fore of tension and thread release Double Length fron Step Pras Bl Stab through the second Pull needle bock about half Run end of thread (back oversitch wheel mark ‘way, forming © loop. side) down through loop. all sleet Bata sk ow ofthe boa cd. CROSS-SECTIONS BELOW SHOW PROPER, ANO IMPROPER STITCHES. fat omeecr_] [sone wows The LOCK STITCH: The drowings above show the cores positon ofthe logp in the conte ofthe motoral Example (A) ‘ot enough tension on needle thidod (8) Too much tension m Withdraws nee about Needle —™ Now withdrow needle. With equal tension on both hands (thumb ‘on AWL FOR ALL spool) pull the stitch tight. Tighten finger grip (SPEEDY STITCHER) on the thread, against the handle, when pull- ing, You have completed the first stitch. The loog should be pulled to the center of the material. Release the spool (AWL FOR ALL) fo have about 2" of thread between needle point and projec, Sim ply pull on the SPEEDY STITCHER to release more threod (Fingers loose Stob the next hole... for the second stitch Repeat steps 2.3.6. S9//f/) SS 5.8 chavs to om Ea tas plete 2nd stitel Continue in this manner. continuedSEWING AWLS. . .continued vee To end the sewing on thin materi, back-sitch one hole as shown. Use eaution not to cul previous fitch 1a From bock side, pul thread ight cot of ct needle (C) Tie a square kro ight. Cut thread ends close 12 scp wih hammer é ale —- (0) On heavy material, bock-stitch (as in A). (2) Pol back-stich up tight. Pull needle bock, fo make « lp, {ie wowraps athe loop wih er the hreod Pl he sich (ep 6 pone 74). Cut off threads; top with © hammer. eoey ater eee ae SEWING DIRECTLY FROW A LARGE SPOOL OF THREAD When you hove a lot of sewing, the owls tan be Used direclly from @ large spool of thread os Shown above, Spools can be mounted in a regular forlctioll holder or bracket made with a dowel, so they turn freely, Mount this fe your bench. With the ‘The AWL FOR ALL can be used similarily. Howey you will still use the bobbin pool, which should be almost Fall bobbie SPEEDY STITCHER, remove the end cap and the bob- bin spool and insert thread through the chomber hole, ground the tension post etc, 08 shown on {ull of thread. Bring thread from the large spool ‘Make two wraps around bobbin (as shown) and thread through awl os shown on page 73. Replace poge 73, You are ready to sew. bobbin spool from the bottom. Thread through nee- dle; install chuck cap. You are ready to sew. — eRe Wee 4 ys ® Ws hun hb (A orb, or wt i Gt pati dt ae hn mat sn ne nn shes you ta ofa on LT rene ete mene) Thee rig ee 1b 7. You il ee uae Bas ga eon he ate om sn, Now content ‘hang nth in ma, The ot ie wack th tad ens, Cutoff kt when enn OR AML, te thesd mat be Bou, ond SPEEDY STITCNER in the ga mane, ‘he het comes ut Sn Cher, 15Craftool BALLPOINT STYLUS (No. 7059) The Ballpoint Stylus is an excellent tool for transfer. fing designs to your cased leather. The polished boll glides effortlessly in ony direction. Held it os you sould.a pencil. Do not drop ton the bell, os it is easily The sys en ao eae SHADER fray caecee ‘smal eis hos FIGURE ad FLORAL can, Pr oom Me eg at STIPPLER (Wo. 6070), = ose tei ers This tool wos primarily designed for making TSN special textures forthe animals, ate, in "FIG. —~ URE CARVING FINESSE” It con be held (left) ‘and topped up ond down by hand... or 7, tapped with the mallet (right). More control canbe maintained by using the mallet. & lat Of force isnot required rf 4s : 4 ¥ reas of a floral design. However, its main function is to reate speciol hoie effects on certain animals such os the koala, vicuia, lama, sheep, and others. Itcan also be used to simulote foliage on very distant trees, texture clothing, ete. Some examples are shown below. See "FIGURE CARVING FINESSE” for iis many & varied applications throughout the book See FIGURE CARVING FINESSE For Step TOSTRING technique. roaua (nesteatia) ] ee Jf casos | ag FOLIAGE on distant 16 trees and bosterPRO-PETALS, - Actual Size (below) These tools are used to “lift” D areos of design to bring them info bold reliel, Study photo ot fight. Hold the tools os shown. Place the point ot bottom of the beveled cut, and push under the design 10 lit the leather the flat fof the tool at the bottom, PROPETALS we io usta in sae ato Fie Cag, such the sHgHon tT inca > n. [BeeteP ne rose | @ a (0) lace hooked ond of tol nthe cuting ejection sl (2) Ree end of tol up ore tube ou of ho I tna toqte par fo remove tue fo goap she tbe onthe shelae. (2) Ser new oe hele} Press in with notched end on tube shoulder. me ‘decries eaten SPECIAL NOTE! — Vat ) f i ‘hn “Inara Tobe anot be reso Ce you fet rene 21 Tobe ntl neon, hen ee the Tbe fos Ifthe tubes resist (step 2) place the edge df the punch on the edge of a metal block (A). DO NOT set shoulder of fube ON THE BLOCK! (8) Place fool in sll. Have an oisstent hold the punch while you tap teol with hammer to remove tube. (C) Replace (asin step 5). Tap with hammer if =" nSarat Gita LEATHERWORKING AIDS For Reseuring, Marking, Tee atting Strata ages hare ere-many for leathercrat that she. aft, —_camPenTen's fore most useful for o~ aang sin yout. leatherwork a. ‘1 3 The bench anvilis deol os rv ————— fling surface and for shaping Rac | folds, ete The see! plote fone 1 tions as a riveting surface and back-up for the drive and end punches. Shop iron ean be used fo make loop irons (page 79). CAUTION: Unless coated or chrome-plated, a chemical Feaction may occur when damp leather ‘Siena cnt th ron ose soning aw se LA the Teather block! It is advisable fo put & ted sia piece of paper between the leather and the ee fron when fiveting or shoping leather. LASTTE cues ed TRANS Draftsman’s tools are good for laying out patterns and designs ‘on poper of leather, ‘tear 104 ‘ond.as. straight edge OP eece 3s nein oe sank a Seriaht ta een for Belts and Straps The SQUARE insures W degree asi sun | The steel plate mokes Snops, oF rivets, can be good firm suppor for using ‘ "tol" inacompletedcase the drive punches. Be sure fo Rivets or snaps con be "set" over the by filling he inside with have a cuiling pad (1) convil end, after a tubular case has wood, and using the between the tool and stee! bbeen completed. Folds con be "sharp- strap iron as a riveting plate. Do not ounch through fened” over the edge of the anvil top. surface the pad into the steel!| ae LEATHERWORKING ATOS 1%. De 134154 1% Ae 14h 17 1964% TRE ET ‘The LOOP IRONS are made of steel. They were mostly used back in the old harness-making days. After the loop was sewn, neor the buckle, itwos moistened. The proper sized iron wos then forced inside the loop cond topped with @ hammer to block its shape, a8 ilystated below. The irons were equal the thickness of the individval billet straps -Moisten the loop. Tap with cobbler's hammer, top fond sides, to block the SEWING LEATHER” pages 36 to 39, for making and installing loops. 19a_1% 1% V4 1 10% 1% We had these LOOP STICKS made of hardwood ‘ond dipped in linseed oil to make them water fesistont The thickness of the sticks Is equal to ‘double the thickness of the strap er bat leathers, fe occommodate a slide loop (keeper. EXAMPLES, Thickness of the loop stick for 8 oz. leather (Va" thick) would be a full “4! For 4 07. (Vse" thick) ‘would be o full 4" thick. These ore used to block (Ghape) the keeper, as shown below. to (coe) Double Thickeess Tickeess See page 9, “The Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES" Vol. |, for making the slide loops. Slide loops can be stapled together os shown at right with @ hand stapler, Fold nds of loop to butt hold With fingers while stopling. Moisten and block on 6 loop lion ta flatten the staples; 9 piece of strap iron of proper Size can be used, blocked old joint tight m0Fe) sotual Ghee t SS 2e00000 RIVET SETTERS & “DOMING™ TOOLS These tools are made out of Yie"x4" cor riage bolts in six sizes that will fit most snap cap or rivet head sizes. The con caved faces maintain the nice domed ‘oppearance of snaps or rivet heads, for Pleasing appearance The larger sizes are used to dome the heads of copper rivets (after they have been riveted) for 0 more professional look Exomplas where "doming’ should be used: page 10, "The Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES,” Vol. I, ond page 4, in Vel. If you do not want the threads on your tools, get longer bolts and cut off the threads. Follow the insiructions below for making these tools. — Grind the heads off fiat. Then grind to the diameters you desire oe Use a rounded grinding burr to concavethe top. USE CAUTION! Then buif all surfaces with ‘ripoli ... and/or other ‘compounds to smooth {and polish the tool ‘ n ardeoed [LEATHERWORKING AIDS sam0LERs (ales) This ool is used to shape and smooth wet leather as fon the swell coverings of saddles, to work aut the ‘wrinkles as the cover is being fittad (below). It lso used for smoothing out wrinkles and minor Unwanted marks that may have been accidentally put on the leather. Observe the suggestions Below. Place the leather on a hard smooth surface. The leather must be wet 50 the slicker does not bur nish (darken) i, oF leave unwantec marks from the slicker’ edges. You can mae» SLICKER at ge Bl, Ary eine for tight Fit Plate glass as by + So ned Bh wn ‘| Polished hg Le edges NJ(COPPER RIVETS: RIVET SETTERS are made by various manufacturers. A Size is made for each rivel size, However, you do no! hove te hove ol ofthe sizes. EXAMPLE: A size 12 will sot #12 & #14 rivets, Size 9 will set #9 & #10 rivers Size 6 Is required forthe #8 rive. For holding power and durability, COPPER RIVETS are by for the best! Properly “set” they will never come. ‘part. The larger sizes (B & 9) are used in hares and Saddlery construction, and other tems where extreme. Siress is applied, Nor. 10 & 12 for heavy coves, ecab- bards, linemen’ belts, et. No, ais ood for securing tend oF stitching at gusseis of saddle bags or cases ‘where rough ond constant pulling is applied. See step To, page 17, "AMAKING CASES’ Vol. | | iti | Li S55 Prepare project for riveting. Push copper rivat through hale from foce side, then turn foce side down on & metal block, Place buer on rivet; hole in rivet setter over the end of the rivet, Drive the burr down tight against ‘he leather, NOTE: Ifthe leather is comp, place o sheet of paper between it and the metal block, or metal may ‘tain the leather. Cut rivet off close to the bure with side or end nipgers. Do not cut off flush with the burr, leave about “se? above burr, » =, COPPER RIVETS and BURRS were mde in all Of the sizes shown above. Some of the sizes may no longer be made. Lengthwise, you do hot have to have a rivet to the exact len~ gth required. It is best to have sizes longer than required. After "setting" the burr, simply cut off the excess rivet. es et ed ee ar Place concave recess of setter on the burt. Hold perpendicular and strike the tool force fully, turning fo left and right a8 you strike, This spreads the end of the rivet over the burr, sim toneovaly rounding its end. A few extra blows of f@ hammer can be used to flatten the rivet end a bir, if desires. ‘14 craftook Soap Setter a VSN, Tur project over: keep on metal block. "Dome" the fivet heed with 3 proper {zed fool The old Crotool Snap Setter will dome the large rivets, #8100 Setter vil dome #14 vas on The opposite page shows how 1a make the doming took arDURABLE DOT and GABY DOT FASTENERS These fasteners come in two Stud - ‘Sted Snvcoves ‘and srops, Roving &® Pg snaps. The Baby Dot can be S&S a stop tie ony corer te AID @ Ieather, Server #7058 is used withthe larger, Durable Dot. #7087 vs used withthe Baby Sar Wher Re nop components ore pu! together, the stir Spreoes ne pons eyelet cop), locking ne por fopether Pm The ANVIL has a concave face. It | is ured for setting the socket to Leather: ae tne a stud Place the end ofthe set- ter in the topof the post Strike forcefully 0 set” the parts. Use metal underneath Cop rests in anvil. Post ‘908s through leather; Socket over post, Setter locks the socket to the cap. (st &@e@ 17 J the cap. The cap ras in the con- cave face, for "seting” A OS oe When the posts of the eyelet and cop are f00 long (obove left), they con be shortened fo the correct length as shown on page 63. When the eyelet and op posts are foo short (above right) the flesh side of the leather can be skived out as shown on page 39 ‘Another method of attaching snaps with shor posts is shown on poge 11, "The Act of MAKING LEATHER CASES" Vol. I. For proper “setting” the post should protrude through the hole ofthe scckat (for cop). fond the stud (for eyelet)... about Mu" Lim y tele [EScurcneon Pins U ESCUTCHEON PINS come in bots, nickel, coppar, sterling si ver, ete, in vorlous lengths and thicknesses (gouges) of metal ‘Most can be found in hardware supply houses. Silver pine, in iewelry supply outlets. they ore Usetul in some segments of your leathercrot work such of intl ing case locks, spring catches, hinges, silver belt fips, et CASES’ with on owl oa Escuicheon pins are t required to install some Coiches. See the pages fon core locks in ‘tof MAKING LEATHER CASES Vali Locate thesgosiion of the pins by Habbing leather “the ‘Stab Holes ha Piece of Retal Sop OFF Nelly S36 RIVETING THE PIN: A copper burr can be used 128 0 wosher on the larger excutcheon pins. Cura piece of tin (or other metal) for the smaller sizes, Snip off excess pin, rivet end ‘with o small hammer, See page 34, “MAK- ING LEATHER CASES; Vol. Il for complete step-by-step instructions on how to properly install the excutcheon pins, wor" idsRAPID RIVETS Actual Size fee Crafegel RIVET SETTER (Ne. #100) The RAPID RIVETS ore “set” by forcing the Cap onto the post. This mushrooms the end ff the post inside the cap, locking the ports fogether A hammer con be Used To swat the Cop, ining the ports. This, however, flat {ene the cop, To preserve a nice domed cap, tse the Crattool Setter above instead of & hammer. This tool fits al ofthe cops (above Fight) except the extra small size. See poge £80 for making setters to it any cop size. of For Gor SSADDLER'S. SEITCHING GROOVE (Gouaina) | BEVEL EDGE (Skiving) .- Chest Ser (Small Bladeo) HEAD/ROUND Knives UnILITY Rnite. OPILIFY (Razor) Knife, IACE (How to Bevel). SEROPPING CARD. =~ TTHONGING CHISELS... OOLS (Bench Arrangement). WHEELS: BUCKSTITCHING. ovenst1 rei SUPPLIMERTARY THOEK Fer SPECIAL 10S and WIRTS sxing SUI0E LOOPS (Keepers) PSHERY" BELT (Hw to Braid. aritne OUTLINES (eansfeering) sos PONEWING ROLES/SUOTS sw COMPLETED CASE. o o-oo 4345 SORIEHING RAPIO RIVETS © SMP POSTS. REVELING (OGES (Narrow Steins) = EVELING ALTER DIMIS CLEARING TURE PINCHES of AET LEATHER. ooo INSTALLING S4MPS/RIVETS fn COMPLETED CASES. UvcINe Ts.