Folkloric Dancing

Guanacaste is the heartland of Costa Rican folkloric music and dancing.

Here, even such pre-Columbian instruments as the chirimia (oboe) and
quijongo (a single-string bow with gourd resonator) popularized by the
Chorotega are still used as backing for traditional Chorotega dances such as
the Danza del Sol and Danza de la Luna. The more familiar Cambute and
Botijuela Tamborito--blurring flurries of kaleidoscopic, frilly satin skirts
accompanied by tossing of scarves, a fanning of hats, and loud lusty yelps
from the men--are usually performed on behalf of tourists rather than at
native turnos (fiestas). The dances usually deal with the issues of enchanted
lovers (usually legendary coffee pickers) and are mostly based on the
Spanish paseo, with pretty maidens in white bodices and dazzlingly bright
skirts circled by men in white suits and cowboy hats.
A number of folkloric dance troupes tour the country, while others perform
year-round at such venues as the Melico Slazar Theater, the Aduana
Theater, and the National Dance Workshop headquarters in San Jos. Of
particular note is Fantasa Folklorica, a colorful highlight of the country's
folklore and history from pre-Columbian to modern times.
Vestiges of the indigenous folk dancing tradition linger (barely) elsewhere in
the nation. The Borucas still perform their Danza de los Diablitos, and the
Talamancas their Danza de los Huelos. But the drums and flutes, including
the curious dru mugata, an ocarina (a small potato-shaped instrument with
a mouthpiece and finger holes which yields soft, sonorous notes) made of
beeswax, are being replaced by guitars and accordions. Even the solemn
indigenous music is basically Spanish in origin and hints at the typically slow
and languid Spanish cancin (song) which gives full rein to the romantic,
sentimental aspect of the Latin character.

Classical Music
Costa Rica stepped onto the world stage in classical music with the
formation, in 1970, of the National Symphony Orchestra under the baton of
an American, Gerald Brown. The orchestra, which performs in the Teatro
Nacional, often features world-renowned guest soloists and conductors, such
as violinist Jos Castillo and classical guitarist Pablo Ortz, who often play
together. Its season is April through November, with concerts on Thursday
and Friday evenings, plus Saturday matinees. Costa Rica also claims the
only state-subsidized youth orchestra in the Western world. The Sura
Chamber Choir, founded in 1989 with musicians and vocalists from the

country's two state universities, was the first professional choir in Central
America, with a repertoire from sacred through Renaissance to
contemporary styles. The Goethe Institute, Alliance Franaise, the Museo de
Arte Costarricense, and the Costa Rican-North American Cultural Center, all
offer occasional classical music evenings; see the San Jos chapter
Costa Rica hosts an International Festival of Music during the last two weeks
of August (P.O. Box 979-`007, tel. 282-7724, fax 282-4574, email:
antich@costaricamusic.com; www.costaricamusic.com).
There's also an annual six-week-long Monteverde Music Festival, tel. 6455125, each January-February, combining classical with jazz and swing. It's
held at the Hotel Fonda Vela, in Monteverde. Book early.