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CONTENTS
MIKE 21
Spectral Wave Module
Scientific Documentation
INTRODUCTION ...........................................................................................1
BASIC EQUATIONS......................................................................................5
3.1
3.2
3.3
General ...............................................................................................................................5
Wave Action Conservation Equations .................................................................................6
Source Functions ................................................................................................................8
4.1
4.2
4.3
Space Discretization..........................................................................................................25
Time Integration ...............................................................................................................27
Boundary Conditions ........................................................................................................29
5.1
5.2
Field Type.........................................................................................................................31
Output format ...................................................................................................................36
REFERENCES..............................................................................................37
6.1
APPENDICES
A
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MIKE 21
Introduction
INTRODUCTION
MIKE 21 SW is a new generation spectral wind-wave model based on
unstructured meshes. The model simulates the growth, decay and
transformation of wind-generated waves and swell in offshore and
coastal areas.
Figure 1.1
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Application Areas
APPLICATION AREAS
MIKE 21 SW is used for the assessment of wave climates in offshore
and coastal areas - in hindcast and forecast mode.
A major application area is the design of offshore, coastal and port
structures where accurate assessment of wave loads is of utmost
importance to the safe and economic design of these structures.
Measured data is often not available during periods long enough to
allow for the establishment of sufficiently accurate estimates of
extreme sea states. In this case, the measured data can then be
supplemented with hindcast data through the simulation of wave
conditions during historical storms using MIKE 21 SW.
MIKE 21 SW is particularly applicable for simultaneous wave
prediction and analysis on regional scale (like the North Sea, see
Figure 2.1) and local scale (west coast of Jutland, Denmark, see Figure
2.3). Coarse spatial and temporal resolution is used for the regional
part of the mesh and a high-resolution boundary- and depth-adaptive
mesh is describing the shallow water environment at the coastline.
Figure 2.1
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Figure 2.2
Figure 2.3
Figure 2.4
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Basic Equations
BASIC EQUATIONS
3.1
General
The dynamics of the gravity waves are described by the transport
equation for wave action density. For small-scale applications the
basic transport is usually formulated in Cartesian co-ordinates, while
spherical polar co-ordinates are used for large-scale applications. The
wave action density spectrum varies in time and space and is a
function of two wave phase parameters. The two wave phase
(3.1)
For wave propagation over slowly varying depths and currents the
relation between the relative angular frequency (as observed in a frame
of reference moving with the current velocity) and the absolute
angular frequency, , (as observed in a fixed frame) is given by the
linear dispersion relation
gk tanh(kd ) k U
(3.2)
2kd
1
1
k 2 sinh( 2kd ) k
(3.3)
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(3.4)
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E , E max ,
max
(3.5)
(3.6)
3.2
N
S
(v N )
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(3.7)
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Basic Equations
dx
cg U
dt
(3.8)
U
d d
c
U x d cg k
dt
s
d t
1 d U
d
c
k
dt
k d m
m
(3.9)
(3.10)
Here, s is the space co-ordinate in wave direction , and m is a coordinate perpendicular to s. x is the two-dimensional differential
ER 2 cos
N NR 2 cos
(3.11)
S
N
c N
c N
c N
c N
(3.12)
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d c g cos u
dt
R
(3.13)
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d c g sin u
dt
R cos
(3.14)
1 du du
d d d
u tan )
(
d t R cos
dt
du
du
du
du
sin
(sin cos
)
)
kc g cos (sin cos
cos
d
d
d
d
R
cos tan (u sin u cos )
(3.15)
d c g sin tan
1
d cos d
sin
dt
R
Rk d
cos
u
u
u
u
sin
cos
sin cos
sin cos
R cos
(3.16)
3.3
Source Functions
The energy source term, S, represents the superposition of source
functions describing various physical phenomena
S = Sin + Snl + Sds + Sbot + Ssurf
(3.17)
Here Sin represents the generation of energy by wind, Snl is the wave
energy transfer due non-linear wave-wave interaction, Sds is the
dissipation of wave energy due to whitecapping, Sbot is the dissipation
due to bottom friction and Ssurf is the dissipation of wave energy due to
depth-induced breaking.
3.3.1
Wind input
In a series of studies by Janssen (1989), Janssen et al. (1989) and
Janssen (1991), it is shown that the growth rate of the waves generated
by wind depends also on the wave age. This is because of the
dependence of the aerodynamic drag on the sea state.
The input source term, Sin is given by
S in f , E f ,
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(3.18)
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Basic Equations
x 2
(3.19)
u*
cos w
c
(3.20)
where u* is the wind friction velocity, c is the phase speed and and
w are the wave and wind directions, respectively. Finally, is given
by:
1.2
2
0
ln 4
(3.21)
kz c
(3.22)
Here k is the wave number and zc is the critical height defined as the
elevation above sea level where the wind speed is exactly equal to the
phase speed. Assuming a logarithmic wind profile, the critical height
can be written as
zc zo exp( / x )
(3.23)
u
x * z cos w
(3.24)
where z 0.011 . According to Peter Janssen (private communication, 1995), this was necessary to account for gustiness and obtain a
reasonable growth rate with WAM.
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Using Eqs. (3.21) - (3.24), the growth rate due to wind input can be
calculated as
1.2
u
a 2 ln 4 * z cos w
c
w
0
(3.25)
where
kz o exp( / x)
(3.26)
For a given wind speed and direction, the growth rate of waves of a
given frequency and direction depends on the friction velocity, u* and
sea roughness, zo . In order to calculate u* , Janssen assumed a
logarithmic profile for the wind speed u(z) of the form
u( z)
u* z z ow
ln
z ob z ow
z 0 z ob z ow
(3.27)
(3.28)
u*
u ( z )
z
ln
z0
(3.29)
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Basic Equations
(3.30)
where drag and drag are two constants. The default values
are z wind 10 m , drag 6.3 10 3 and drag 6.6 10 5 , cf. Smith &
Banke (1975). Then the sea roughness is obtained using Eq. (3.29).
U w
z 0 z wind exp
u
*
(3.31)
(3.32)
z ob 1 w
z
u2
charnock *
g
w
1
air u*2
(3.33)
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P
w
df d
t wind
(3.34)
P wE f ,
(3.35)
Here is the unit vector along the wave direction ( k / k ). From
Eq. (3.18) we obtain
E
P
w
t
t
wF
(3.36)
wind
where is the growth rate of the waves due to wind. Splitting the
integral into low and high frequency parts, one obtains
w w , prognostic w,diagnostic
(3.37)
where
w, prognostic
E
2
f
df
d
l
w
f max
(3.38)
w,diagnostic
wE 2f df d l
(3.39)
f max
of Eq. (3.38) using the computed discrete spectra. The diagnostic part
2 4 f 5 u 2 E f cos 2 I d l
w,diagnostic
max
max,
w
a *
g2
(3.40)
where
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Basic Equations
I w
f max
df
f
(3.41)
(3.42)
ymax
dy
y
(3.43)
where ymax 2f max zo / g and the upper limit is set to 1.0. Assuming
zch = 0.0185, this upper limit corresponds to a frequency of about 180
times the Pierson Moskowitz peak frequency.
Eq. (3.43) can be re-written as
dy
12
.
ln 4
2
(3.44)
kz o exp( / x) y 2 exp( / x)
(3.45)
x * z cos( ) * y z cos( )
gz
(3.46)
y max
where
2
y exp
u* y z cos( )
gz
(3.47)
2 4 f 5 u 2 / 2 E f cos 2 I d l
w,diagnostic
max
max,
a * / 2
w
g2
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(3.48)
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2 4 f 5 u 2 / 2 E f cos 3 I ' ( , u )d m
w,diagnostic
max
a * / 2
max,
w
*
g2
(3.49)
where
1
'
I
( , u* )
12
.
dy
'ln 4 '
2
y
y max
' y 2 exp
u* y z
gz
(3.50)
(3.51)
and m is the unit vector in the direction of the wind. The omission of
the cosine term in Eq. (3.51) appears to be an error (compare Eq.
(3.47) and Eq. (3.51)). This error cannot be compensated by the use of
cos3 (Eq. (3.49)) instead of cos2 (Eq. (3.48)). Furthermore, it is not
3.3.2
Non-linear interactions
The exact computations of the three-dimensional non-linear
Boltzmann integral expressions for S nl (Hasselmann, 1962) are too
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Basic Equations
Figure 3.1
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phase space. Just as in the exact case the interactions conserve energy,
momentum and action.
For the configurations:
1 2
3 (1 )
4 (1 )
(3.52)
(3.53)
f
S nl
1
f ( f , E , E , E )
S nl
S
nl
1 f
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(3.54)
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Basic Equations
where
E
E 2 EE E
( f , F , F , F ) C ' g 4 f 11 E 2
4
(1 ) 4 (1 2 ) 4
(1 )
(3.55)
(3.56)
where k is the mean wave number. This scaling relation holds in the
range kh 1 , where the exact computations could be closely
reproduced with the scaling factor
R( x ) 1
5.5 5x
5x
1 exp ,
4
6
x
(3.57)
S nl 1 ( f , E , E , E )
S 1
nl
(3.58)
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S nl 2
S nl 1 ( f , E , E , E )
S 1
nl
(3.59)
f E
f
S nl / E
(1 )
f E
S nl / E
S / E
nl
(1 ) f
f E
(3.60)
f (1 ) f
(3.61)
f (1 ) f
(3.62)
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Basic Equations
Case 1: f f max
______________
Firstly, the energy spectrum in the region f f max is assumed to
follow an f 5 tail, since this is the diagnostic region. Secondly, in the
vicinity of f max , there are contributions to S nl from frequencies higher
than the discretized maximum frequency in the model. The maximum
frequency f upper , which contributes energy into the discretized
frequency range, can be found by solving:
f 1 f upper f max
(3.63)
f upper f max / 1
(3.64)
or
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Whitecapping
The mathematical development of a whitecap model can be traced to
Hasselmann (1974). Assuming that the mechanism for whitecap
dissipation is pressure induced decay, he obtained a dissipation source
function that is linear in both the spectral density and the frequency
S ds E
(3.65)
S ds
C ' ds
PM
E
k
(3.66)
k Etot
(3.67)
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Scientific Documentation
Basic Equations
S ds f , C ds
PM
k
k
1 E f ,
k
k
(3.68)
Cds , and m are constants. In WAM cycle 4 the values for Cds ,
and m are respectively, 4.1x10 -5, 0.5 and 4. In the present
*
C ds /( PM ) 2 and
implementation the tunable constants are C ds
*
while m = 4. The default values for C ds
and are respectively, 4.5
and 0.5.
3.3.4
Bottom friction
The rate of dissipation due to bottom friction is given by
S bot ( f , ) (C f f c (u k ) / k )
k
E ( f , )
sinh 2kd
(3.69)
(3.70)
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f max
E
(
f
,
)
d
df
u b 2
f1 sinh 2 (kh)
1/ 2
(3.71)
f w 0.24
ab / k N 2.016389
ab / k N 2.016389
(3.72)
f max
(
,
)
ab 2
E
f
d
df
f1 sinh 2 (kh)
1/ 2
(3.73)
Wave breaking
Depth-induced breaking (or surf breaking) occurs when waves
propagate into very shallow areas, and the wave height can no longer
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Basic Equations
S surf f ,
2 BJ Qb f
E ( f , )
X
(3.74)
H rms
Etot
X
( H m2 / 8) H m
(3.75)
where Etot are the total wave energy, H m is the maximum wave, and
H
Qb 1
X rms
ln Qb
Hm
Qb exp(
(1 Qb )
)
( H rms / H m ) 2
(3.76)
Qb is obtained solving the nonlinear Eq. (3.76) using a NewtonRaphson iteration. As initial guess for the nonlinear iteration is used
the following explicit approximation to Qb (Hersbach, 1996 private
communication)
Qb
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(1 2 x 2 ) exp( 1 / x )
1 (2.04 z )(1 0.44 z );
1
z 1 x;
x 0.5
0.5 x 1
x 1
(3.77)
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Numerical Implementation
NUMERICAL IMPLEMENTATION
4.1
Space Discretization
The discretization in geographical and spectral space is performed
using a cell-centered finite volume method. In the geographical
domain, an unstructured mesh is used. The spatial domain is discretized
by subdivision of the continuum into non-overlapping elements. The
elements can be of arbitrarily shaped polygons, however, in this paper
l f l 1
l l 1 l 1
l 2, N
(4.1)
m 2 / N
m 1, N
(4.2)
t m
Ai
Nddd
Ai
S
ddd
Ai
( F )ddd
(4.3)
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N i , l , m
t
1 NE
Fn p , l , m l p
Ai p 1
(4.4)
Si, l, m
1
1
( F ) i , l 1 / 2 , m ( F ) i , l 1 / 2 , m
( F ) i , l , m 1 / 2 ( F ) i , l , m 1 / 2
l
m
l
1
1 cn
Fn c n ( N i N j )
( N i N j )
2 cn
(4.5)
1
ci c j n
2
(4.6)
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Numerical Implementation
Figure 4.1
4.2
Time Integration
The integration in time is based on a fractional step approach. Firstly,
a propagation step is performed calculating an approximate solution
N* at the new time level (n+1) by solving Eq. (3.7) without the source
terms. Secondly, a source terms step is performed calculating the new
solution Nn+1 from the estimated solution taking into account only the
effect of the source terms.
Propagation step
The propagation step is carried out by an explicit Euler scheme
N i*, l , m
N in, l , m
N i , l , m
(4.7)
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explicit Euler scheme, the time step is limited by the CFL condition
stated as
Cri , l , m c x
t
t
t
t
1
c
c
cy
m
l
y i
x i
(4.8)
(4.9)
g 1
g 1, 2, 3, ...
(4.10)
The local time step, t i , is then determined as the time step with the
maximum value of the level index, g, for which
t i f g t max , i
(4.11)
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(4.12)
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Numerical Implementation
n 1
i ,l , m
n
i ,l ,m
( S i*,l ,m / l )t
(1 t )
(4.13)
3 10 7 ~ 4
gu t
2 3 * l max
(4.14)
u~* max(u* , ( PM / ))
(4.15)
4.3
Boundary Conditions
At the land boundaries in the geographical space, a fully absorbing
boundary condition is applied. The incoming flux components (the
flux components for which the propagation velocity normal to the cell
face is positive) are set to zero. No boundary condition is needed for
the outgoing flux components. At an open boundary, the incoming
flux is needed. Hence, the energy spectrum has to be specified at an
open boundary. In the frequency space, the boundaries are fully
absorbing. No boundary conditions are needed in the directional space.
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Output Data
OUTPUT DATA
5.1
Field Type
The following types of output data is possible
Parameters
- Integral wave parameters
- Input parameters
- Model parameters
or
cos m 0
(5.1)
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f f threshold
or
cos m 0
(5.2)
f threshold
E
0.7 f p, PM PM
E mod el
0.31
(5.3)
f p, PM 0.14
g
U 10
(5.4)
E PM
U
10
1.4 g
(5.5)
and Etotal is the calculated total wave energy for those components
fulfilling the following criterion
f f threshold
and
cos m 0
(5.6)
(5.7)
where U10 is the wind speed, c the phase speed and and w is the
wave propagation and wind direction, respectively.
The integral wave parameters are given by
1) Significant wave height, Hm0 (m)
H mo 4 mo
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(5.8)
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Output Data
(5.9)
1
H max
is determined assuming Rayleigh distributed waves
1
H max
H m0
1
ln N
2
(5.10)
2
H max
d
where
(5.11)
L 2
(5.12)
f p f ip 1
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b
2c
(5.13)
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where
2
2
f 2 f 0 E1 E0 f1 f 0 E2 E0
b
f 1 f 0 f 2 f 0 2 f1 f 0 2 f 2 f 0
f1 f 0 E2 E0 f 2 f 0 E1 E0
f1 f 0 f 2 f0 2 f1 f0 2 f 2 f 0
(5.14)
(5.15)
T01 m0 / m1
(5.16)
(5.17)
(5.18)
270 tan 1 (b / a )
(5.19)
where
1
a
m0
0 0
cos E f , dfd
2
(5.20)
1
b
m0
0 0
sin E f , dfd
2
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1 / 2 1/ 2
180 /
(5.21)
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Output Data
(5.22)
1
g f u 2 f pp
2
1
g f uv
2
1
g f v 2 f pp
2
S xx
S xy
S yy
(5.23)
where
2
2kd
1
E f , dfd
sinh( 2kd )
f pp
f uv
2kd
3
E f , dfd
cos 2 1
2
sinh( 2kd )
0
fu2
0 0
2kd
3
3
E f , dfd
cos sin 1
2
2
sinh( 2kd )
(5.24)
f v2
2kd
3
E f , dfd
sin 2 1
2
sinh( 2kd )
0
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Spectral Parameters
5.2
Wave energy
Wave action
Output format
The following types of output formats is possible
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Point series
- Selected field data in geographical defined points
- The geographical co-ordinates are either taken from the dialog
or from an ASCII file
Lines series
- Selected field data in geographical defined lines
- The geographical co-ordinates are either taken from the dialog
or from an ASCII file
Area series
- Selected field data in geographical defined area
Scientific Documentation
References
REFERENCES
Battjes, J.A. and J.P.F.M. Janssen, (1978), Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of
random waves, Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, pp 569-587.
Benoit, M., F. Marcos and F. Becq, (1996), Development of a third-generation shallow
water wave model with unstructured spatial meshing, Proc. 25th Int. Conf.
Coastal Eng., ASCE, pp 465-478.
Booij, N., R. C. Ris and L. H. Holthuijsen, (1999), A third-generation wave model for
coastal regions. 1. Model description and validation. J. Geophys. Res., 104,
7649-7666.
Eldeberky, Y. and J.A. Battjes. (1995), Parameterization of triad interactions in wave
energy models, paper presented at Coastal Dynamics Conference, ASCE.,
Gdansk, Poland.
Hasselmann K., (1974), On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to whitecapping,
Bound. Layer Meteor., 6, 107-127.
Hasselmann, S., K. Hasselmann, J.H. Allender and T.P. Barnett (1985), Computations and
parameterizations of the non-linear energy transfer in gravity wave
spectrum. Part II: Parameterisations of nonlinear energy transfer for
applications in wave models, J. Phys. Oceanog., 15, 1369-1377.
Hersbach, H. and P. A. E. M. Janssen, (1999), Improvement of short-fetch behaviour in the
wave ocean model, J. Atmos. & Ocean Tech., 16, 884-892.
Holthuijsen, L.H, Booij, N. and Herbers, T.H.C., 1989: A Prediction Model for Stationary,
Short-crested Waves in Shallow Water with Ambient Currents, Coastal
Engineering, 13, 23-54.
Komen, G.J, L. Cavaleri, M. Doneland, K. Hasselmann, S. Hasselmann and P.A.E.M.
Janssen, (1994), Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves, Cambridge
University Press, UK, 560 pp.
Janssen, P.A.E.M., (1989), Wave induced stress and the drag of airflow over sea waves, J.
Phys. Oceanogr., 19, 745-754.
Janssen, P.A.E.M., (1991), Quasi-linear theory of wind wave generation applied to wave
forecasting, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 21, 1631-1642.
Janssen P.A.E.M. and Gnther, (1992), Consequences of the effect of surface gravity
waves on the mean air flow, Int. Union of Theor. and Appl. Mech. (IUTAM),
Sydney, Australia, 193-198.
Johnson H.K., and H. Kofoed-Hansen, (1998), MIKE 21 OSW3G - Technical
documentation, Internal Rep., Danish Hydraulic Institute.
Johnson H.K., and H. Kofoed-Hansen, (2000), Influence of Bottom friction on sea
roughness and its impact on shallow water wind wave modelling, J. Phys.
Oceanogr., 30, 1743-1756 .
Jonsson, I.G., (1966), Wave boundary layers and friction factors, Proc. 10th Int. Conf.
Coastal Eng., Tokyo, ASCE, pp 127-148.
Jonsson I.G. and N.A. Carlsen, (1976), Experimental and theoretical investigations in an
oscillatory turbulent boundary layer, J. Hydraul. Res., 14, 45-60.
Ris, R.C., L.H. Holthuijsen and N. Booij, (1999), A third-generation wave model for
coastal regions. 2. Verification, J. Geophys. Res., 104C, 7667-7681.
Scientific Documentation
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Smith, S.D. and E.G. Banke, 1975: Variation of the sea surface drag coefficient with wind
speed. Quart. J. Roy. Meteor. Soc, 101, 665-673.
Tolman, H.L., (1991), A third generation model for wind waves on slowly varying,
unsteady and inhomogeneous depths and currents, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 21,
782-797.
Tolmann, H.L. (1992), Effects of numerics on the physics in a third-generation wind-wave
model, J. Phys. Oceanogr, 22, 1095-1111.
Tolman, H.L. and D. Chalikov, (1996), Source terms in a third-generation wind-wave
model. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 26, 2497-2518.
Van Vledder, G.P, J.G. de Ronde and M.J.F. Stive, (1994), Performance of a spectral windwave model in shallow water, Proc. 24th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, pp
761-774.
Vilsmeier R. and D. Hnel, (1995), Adaptive solutions for unsteady laminar flows on
unstructured grids, Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids., Vol. 22, 85-101.
Young I.R., (1999), Wind generated ocean waves, In Elsevier Ocean Engineering Book
Series, Volume 2. Eds. R. Bhattacharyya and M.E. McCormick, Elsevier.
WAMDI Group, (1988), The WAM model A third generation ocean wave prediction
model, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 18, 1775-1810.
Weber, S.L, (1991), Bottom friction for wind sea and swell in extreme depth-limited
situations, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 10, 1712-1733.
6.1
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Scientific Documentation
References
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APPENDIX A
Spectral Wave Parameters
Appendix A
(A.1)
2f 2
mo
m1
(A.2)
mo
I
(A.3)
mi
E f , f
dfd
(A.4)
00
mi1
(A.5)
2 f max
E f , f
0
dfd
(A.6)
dfd
(A.7)
mi2
E f , f
0 f max
Therefore:
2
f
mi2 E f max , d
f max
f max
0
f i df I max
1 i
f max
4i
(A.8)
I max
2 f max
0 0
Scientific Documentation
1 i 2
f max
E f , f dfd
E f max , d
4 i 0
(A.9)
A-1
DHI Water & Environment
f max
E ( f , )
E ( f max , )
f
k
max
f max
dfd
f1
dfd
k
(A.10)
f max
E ( f , )
f1
dfd
k
g
E ( f max , )d
10
where the deep water expression for k has been used in the second
term on the RHS of Eq. (A.10).
A-2
DHI Water & Environment