Professional Documents
Culture Documents
The printed version of this book was published by Vantage Press New York / Los Angeles
in 1990 and re-printed in 1992. As of 1996, it was out of print.
I made an electronic version, which I re-edited in 2003
++++++++++++++++
NOTE: This Google blog did NOT put any of the drawings / graphics necessary to
understand a lot of the information.
However, I have the complete (PDF) and Word documents of the text and graphics
on this site. Go to Home of this site, and look at Files which lists the book text in PDF format, as well
as additional files on other insulation and energy saving topics.
I also have the complete (PDF) documents of the text and graphics
on a Yahoo web-site.
The Yahoo site includes some photos of an attic and basement insulation project. Use this link to
connect to it.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EnergyConservationHousing
(Expect to have to sign in to the Yahoo group to access the data.)
Starting in November 2008, this data has been available on a different site (Multiply.com).
http://energyconshousing.multiply.com/
The main improvement on this Multiply site is the ability to add videos. I added some insulation videos
that can be viewed on the Multiply site. The Word and PDF documents are also on this site. However, my
home computer has been unable to open those documents on the Multiply site due to some problem with
JavaScript. If you run into similar problems, the best source for the complete PDF and Word documents
is on the above Yahoo site.
Expect to have to sign-in to the Multiply site to access the data.
Previously the text Word and PDF documents on the Multiply.com site were on an MSN site. http://
www.msnusers.com/EnergyConservationInHousing The MSN sites was closed in February 2009.
++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++
NOTE: This Google site did NOT put any of the drawings / graphics necessary to
understand a lot of the information.
However, I have the complete (PDF) documents of the text and graphics
on a Yahoo web-site.
The Yahoo site includes some photos of an attic and basement insulation project. Use this link to
connect to it.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EnergyConservationHousing
(Expect to have to sign in to the Yahoo group to access the data.)
Starting in November 2008, this data has been available on a different site (Multiply.com).
http://energyconshousing.multiply.com/
The main improvement on this Multiply site is the ability to add videos. I added some insulation videos
that can be viewed on the Multiply site. The Word and PDF documents are also on this site. However, my
home computer has been unable to open those documents on the Multiply site due to some problem with
JavaScript. If you run into similar problems, the best source for the complete PDF and Word documents
is on the above Yahoo site.
Expect to have to sign-in to the Multiply site to access the data.
The above diagram shows only one heat exchange plate. In actuality more plates are used
to get a better recovery of heat. These ventilation devices are sold commercially, in various
types.
For the homemade version I designed, I used 10 exhaust chambers alternating with 10
intake chambers similar to the alternating plates in the counterflow heat exchanger diagram
shown below.
For the homemade heat exchanger, the heat exchange plates are aluminum, sold as
aluminum flashing commonly available in hardware stores. The plates are spaced apart,
using wood or plastic lumber strips, to keep the heat exchange plates at an even spacing. As
I describe in this text, it is possible to make such a ventilation device, using some commonly
available items, found in hardware and building supply stores.
The idea is to circulate the incoming air throughout the house, and to exhaust stale air
from the house, such as from bathrooms. In my house, I connected two bathroom exhaust ducts,
and added a hallway exhaust duct, to go to the exhaust side of the heat exchanger. For the
incoming fresh air, I simply brought it to one point in my house, where it entered into the
basement, instead of adding extra ductwork to each room.
Coroplast is far superior to polyethylene for use as heat exchange plates. Unfortunately,
coroplast is not widely available. It is manufactured in Canada in 4 x 8 foot sheets about -inch
thick. The size makes it difficult to order coroplast by mail when not locally available. A
number of commercially available models use coroplast as the exchange medium, having
exchanger cores of single-pass and double-pass crossflow as well as counterflow designs.
This text describes a homemade counterflow heat exchanger using aluminum flashing as
the exchange plate material. As a heat exchange medium, aluminum is superior to plastics since
it has a conductivity hundreds of times higher, allowing good heat transfer with less surface area.
Plywood strips can be used as spacers for the aluminum plates. Use plywood about -inch
thick, cut in strips 1-inch wide, cut to the proper lengths. Seal the edges of the plywood with
acoustical sealant, or equivalent, to prevent moisture from entering the edges of the wood. By its
nature, plywood could eventually rot from the moisture condensing in the exchanger core even
when sealant protects the wood. Plastic lumber can be used as spacer strips (one can find
information on plastic lumber by a search of the Internet). When I designed this heat exchanger
in 1988, I used a brand of plastic garden "bender board" which was likely one of the first types
of plastic lumber I used it instead of plywood spacer strips. Bender board was available
where I lived at that time (California, in 1988), but I never found it again after I moved to the
East Coast of the US.
Plastic bender board, intended to be placed in the ground as edging for gardens, is resistant
to both cold and moisture. Bender board came in 40-foot rolls, about 3-inch wide x -inch
thick. To provide support and spacing for the aluminum sheets, a 1-inch width of the bender
board is sufficient. The roll could be cut into 1-inch widths and the needed lengths with a table
saw. Each roll then provides about 120 feet of 1-inch strips. The exchanger design is a parallel
plate counterflow design about 5 feet in length, with 21 aluminum exchange plates.
Use some form of material for spacer strips such as plastic lumber. Years ago, when
I made my heat exchanger, I found a plastic material, that did the job. It was plastic
bender board, intended to be used as edging in gardens. I used 4 rolls of the plastic bender
board ("Plastiform" Lawn and Garden Bender Board, durable redwood grained plastic,
manufactured by Kerber Associates, Inc., 1260 Pioneer Street, Brea, CA 92621, (714) 8712451) . . . . about $10 per roll.
In the present day, you could use an equivalent amount of plastic lumber to have spacer strips
about thick. If you cant get thick plastic lumber, you might still get reasonable heat
recovery using the more commonly available 1 thick plastic lumber as spacer strips. Such an
exchanger would use less aluminum (due to half the number of exchange plates). (Using 1
thick plastic lumber should make it easier to seal at the ports.)
2 rolls of 50-foot long aluminum flashing. The 14-inch width is perhaps the minimum width that
should be used. The 20-inch width will provide 50% more exchange area for a larger-capacity
airflow. Flashing is also manufactured in 24- and 28-inch widths, although most hardware
stores may not stock the wider sizes.
5 pounds of 1 - inch (5d) galvanized box nails
pound of 1-inch (2d) galvanized box nails
2 tubes of silicone sealant
One box of staples inch or longer and staple gun. (More nails can alternatively be used instead
of staples, although staples make it easier to hold parts of the exchanger in position during
assembly.)
Pop rivets or sheet metal screws for assembling sheet metal sections
10 feet of rigid angle metal ( x -inch, to form the rigid metal attachment flange)
1 or 2 hose or tubing connectors as condensate drains (3/8 to inch in diameter)
4' x 8' sheet of rigid insulation, to 1-inch thick.
One large section of sheet metal (perhaps 3 foot x 10 foot in size) cut to specific dimensions to
cover the exterior of the exchanger (alternatively, plywood can be used).
Additional remnants of sheet metal (to make endplates and expansion chambers)
30 feet of 1 x 1 inch sheet metal angle strip. (Alternatively, 1 x 1 - inch size can be used)
Sheet metal duct pipe, 6 inches in diameter. Four duct pipe sections, at least 4 inches long each,
will be needed. Two of the sections should have a tapered end. To directly install duct
booster fans in the pipe, two of the sections should be made about 8 inches long. If tapered
ends are desired for each connector, then four original duct pipes are needed.
Procedure. Cut the rolls of bender board (or plastic lumber) into 1-inch-wide strips. Bender
board strips cut and nail similar to wood, although they are far more flexible and difficult to
handle when cutting. Make the following lengths of the 1-inch-wide strips:
51" long strips
8" long strips
14" long strips
50" long strips
80 needed
80 needed
4 needed (for the outer layer on each side)
4 needed (for the outer layer on each side)
I tested my heat exchanger design, and found it had about 72% heat recovery.
(The inside house / exhaust temperate is 68 F; the outside temperature is +8 F. The incoming air is pre-heated to
51 F. Inside to outside: 68-8 = 60 T; intake air pre-heat: 51 - 8 = 43 T; 43 60 = 71.6% recovery)
Cut the aluminum flashing into 54-inch lengths (each sheet will be 54 x 14 inches for the
small size exchanger). Each aluminum roll will make 11 plates; 21 plates will be needed for the
exchanger. There is a one-inch overlap of the aluminum plates at the port ends of the exchanger
to allow the aluminum plates to be folded together when sealing the ports; the plates are 54
inches long and the plastiform (or plastic lumber) laminations are only 52 inches long.
Each exhaust lamination is two layers of plastiform thick; each intake lamination is also
two layers of plastiform thick. The resultant air space is nearly inch on either side of each
exchange plate.
The exchanger is assembled in sandwich fashion: an exhaust lamination, an aluminum
exchange plate, an intake lamination, an aluminum plate, an exhaust lamination, an aluminum
plate, et cetera. It is difficult to get the first few layers started, since one is connecting exhaust
laminations to intake laminations through an aluminum plate, not providing enough thickness for
nailing until there are at least 5 layers of plastiform strips. To get the process started, attach an
intake and exhaust layer on either side of one aluminum plate by way of inch staples. After 5
layers of plastiform, the 2d nails can be used. Once there are 9 layers of plastiform, the 5d nails
can be used.
Using 1 thick plastic lumber should make it easier to seal at the ports. The aluminum
could be bent over and nailed to the adjacent plastic lumber, perhaps taking less time and effort
than the above-described rolling and flattening of the aluminum plates. (This process is
described in the above diagram, and in more detail in the diagram on page 9.)
The aluminum flashing material might have a coating of oil on it from the factory. If
desired, you could clean off the metal surface before or after assembly. After I completed my
basic exchanger core, I soaked the exchanger in a large container of soapy water to dissolve the
oil and any dirt introduced during assembly. (Actually I filled a large garbage can with soapy
water, soaking the core, one end at a time, to dissolve the oil. Then I rinsed thoroughly with a
garden hose to remove the soapy water.)
When the central core is completed, an expansion chamber is attached to both ends of the
exchanger. Two pieces of sheet metal will be needed, 5 by 50 inches in size. These are wrapped
around the port ends of the core to make a rectangular tube, holes are drilled through the sheet
metal, and the expansion chamber is nailed to the plastiform perimeter at each end of the
exchanger. Another piece of sheet metal (4 x 10 inches) is installed as a septum to divide the
exhaust and intake airflows. The septum is formed by making inch folds on two ends. (The
final septum size is 4 x 9 inches for a 9-inch thick exchanger core). Where the septum contacts
the exchanger between the ports the seal can be made more secure by cutting a score line (with a
hacksaw) in the plastiform and setting the septum in the groove before sealing with caulk. All
the internal joints of the expansion chamber and septum must be caulked to prevent air leakage
and cross-leakage. Attach rigid angle metal to the perimeter edge of the sheet metal and to the
septum to allow for attachment of the end plate at a later time. The end plate will hold the two
duct pipes and the condensate drain. Rigid insulation covers the central core; sheet metal or
plywood covers the exterior of the exchanger. For best results, the exchanger made from 14inch wide exchange plates should have 6-inch-diameter ducts; 4-inch-diameter ducts will
provide sufficient airflow for only 100 cfm capacity. Careful measurements are necessary when
making the endplates, since the spacing is very tight.
Once the exchanger is assembled, it must be hooked to the appropriate duct connections for
fresh air supply and exhaust air removal; fans are attached to move air through the exchanger.
Theoretically, if the home is tightly constructed, when air is exhausted fresh air automatically
will be drawn in through the fresh air ductwork of the exchanger; hooking up bathroom and
kitchen exhaust fans to the exchanger would serve this purpose. By exhausting air (without
active fresh air supply), a negative air pressure is created in the home, potentially increasing
radon infiltration as well as driving infiltration through any break in the vapor barrier. In
practice, most exchangers have both exhaust and intake fans.
Air movement can be provided by a twin centrifugal blower (both air streams moved by
one motor) or by separate axial fans or centrifugal blowers. The fans can be built into the warm
end of the exchanger instead of directly attaching the endplate, or a separate blower housing can
supply the air to the exchanger through ducts. Commercial heat exchangers use either detached
fan modules or built-in fans. Either method is suitable for this exchanger, depending on the
preference of the builder. I found that the easiest method is to use "duct boosters" in the duct
connections next to the endplate. See the listing of fan and blower suppliers on page 18.
Filters should be installed to reduce dust accumulation in the exchanger. (See page 153 for
updated details on filters for this homemade exchanger.) For up to 200 cfm airflow, 10-inch x
10-inch filters, installed in the duct system before air reaches the exchanger core, should provide
adequate filtering.
Under very cold outdoor conditions, moisture can freeze on the exchange plates in the
exhaust air stream; if sufficient ice accumulates, the exchanger will be unable to function.
Defrosting can be accomplished by turning off the heat exchanger (requiring a very long time for
the core to thaw out) or routing air at room temperature through the exchanger when the cold air
fan is off. Solplan 6 suggests that defrosting can be done automatically by having the intake air
blower hooked to a 24-hour timer. The timer will shut off the cold air blower on the schedule set
on the timer. If the outside temperature is above +14F, no defrosting is needed. With outside
temperatures at 0F, a 30-minute shutoff every 24 hours is sufficient. At -40F, a 30-minute
shutoff every 12 hours will allow defrosting. During the defrost mode, the warm air from the
house is still being exhausted. The heat of the exhausted air will serve to defrost the frozen
core.27 Under ordinary conditions (when the house is closed up during cold or very hot
weather), the heat exchanger should be run continuously at the flow rate needed to provide fresh
air. (Usually 0.4 to 1.0 air changes per hour is sufficient.) Wiring the exchanger to a humidistat
is not correct, because the inside humidity level is not necessarily an indication of the level of
indoor air pollution.
During mild weather, it may be preferable to open the windows for ventilation, instead of
using the heat exchanger. If the exchanger is to be used to pre-cool hot, humid air in summer,
there may be condensation on the intake air passageways. For this reason, a condensate drain
can be installed on the warm air end of the exchanger for summer use. However, I have found in
14 years of use in my house, in hot, humid summers, that condensation is not an issue on the
warm air end of the exchanger.
The final efficiency of the exchanger will be better if the exchanger is made thicker, using
more exchange plates. Having 50% more exchange plates will allow 50% more airflow with no
loss of efficiency. It is also possible to make single layers of plastiform (exhaust and intake
spacers) to separate the exchange plates; doing this will use 41 aluminum plates, doubling the
exchange area (and doubling the cost of the aluminum). However, with single layers of
plastiform, the spacing will be so tight that sealing the ports (by rolling the aluminum plates) will
be very difficult.
In constructing the basic core of the 14-inch-wide exchanger, the assembly time was about
30 hours and the cost of material was $220, plus the fan costs. See the product listings for
possible sources of blowers and fans.
The ductwork of the exchanger system goes through the exterior walls for fresh air intake
and exhaust air removal. The sections of duct pipe going through the wall should have a shield
to keep out the rain and a screen to keep out insects and birds. Position the fresh air duct away
from possible sources of contaminated air (away from car exhaust, fireplace smoke, septic vent
pipes, and the exhaust duct of the heat exchanger).
Although 4-inch duct vents (as used for clothes dryers) going through exterior walls can be
obtained for several dollars, the 6-inch sizes usually cost substantially more.
Test and adjust flow balance on a calm day. Open one window and seal it with a loose
cover of polyethylene sheeting. Turn on the heat exchanger with both dampers fully open.
If the plastic bows or curves outward, the house has positive pressure due to excessive
intake airflow. Gradually adjust the damper on the intake airflow until the plastic sheet is limp,
curving neither in nor out. At this point the two flows are balanced.
If the plastic curves inward, the house has negative pressure, requiring that the damper
on the exhaust side be adjusted to balance the airflow.27
The exhaust air ducts should be located high on the wall, where the most humid and stale
air is present. (Cooking and showering give off heat and humidity, which will rise.) According
to heat exchanger manufacturers, the fresh air ducts should also be located high on the wall to
allow the cooler fresh air to mix better, instead of staying closer to the floor. Alternatively, if
you have bathroom exhaust fans already installed, you can route the exhaust ducts into an air
chamber leading to the heat exchanger.
When the clothes dryer is in operation, it will induce some imbalance of the airflow
between exhaust and intake air of the house since it is adding to house air exhaust and not to air
intake. It is possible to reduce this imbalance by venting outside supply air directly to the dryer
or to make a small capacity heat exchanger core specifically for the clothes dryer. The dryer fan
system will drive both airflows and no additional fans are needed. Such a heat exchanger core
must be provided with filters and frequently cleaned to remove collected lint. (Putting such
detail into the clothes dryer exhaust system seems to be way too much work.)
that one could use in a homemade air-to-air heat exchanger. Such items can
be purchased from a hardware store, or from local heating, ventilation, or "electric motor" suppliers. It
may be possible to locate motors of some wholesale fan/blower manufacturing companies through their
distributors or repair people. Local distributors might be found in the Yellow Pages under "Electric
Motors," "Heating," or "Ventilation." Below are some manufactures of blowers and fans.
1)
Tjernlund Products, 1601 Ninth Street, White Bear Lake, MN 55110-6794; (615)426-2993; 800-255-4208
This company markets duct pipe fans typically available in hardware stores (as of September 2003). See comments
on page 153 about fan blade shape and airflow problems (and how to resolve them). They are easily adapted for use
in the homemade air-to-air heat exchanger.
2)
Some other sources for duct booster fans, found by search of the Internet, as of September 2003.
A. Smarthome.com has duct boosters for 4 to 12 diameter ducts.
B. ESP ENERGY; 1615 Newberry; Racine, WI 53402; (262) 681-9288; 1-888-551-9288. Has in-line duct
fans for 4 to 12 ducts, plus several other similar fan versions.
C. Empire Ventilation Equipment Co. 35-39 Vernon Blvd; Long Island City; NY 11106 (718)728-2143.
Has in-line duct fans for 6 to 12 ducts.
D. Aero-Flo Industries; P.O. Box 358; Kingsbury, IN 45645-0358; (219) 393-3555. Has 6 in-line duct fans.
3)
Ancor Industries, 1220 Rock Street, Rockford, IL 61101, (815)963-7100. (This company apparently out of
business, as of 1994.) This company sold fans easily installed in duct pipes. Their Superbooster duct boosters were
intended for use in heating and cooling duct pipes to improve airflow to selected rooms. Motors were low-wattage
and were made in 120 Volts (AC), 24 Volts (AC), and 240 volts (AC); sound insulated with foam rubber. I found
the 6-inch size fans very well suited for the homemade heat exchanger (using 14-inch wide aluminum plates) that I
describe on pages 97-109. Below were the sizes and specifications during the time they were made.
Duct size
5 inch
6 inch
7 inch
8 inch
Model Volts
15-0070
115 V
15-0071
115 V
15-0072
115 V
15-0073
115 V
Amps
0.37
0.40
0.44
0.46
Watts
15
20
23
25
total CFM
80
110
150
200
Price
$39.95
$39.95
$39.95
$39.95
Shipping
$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
4)
Broan Manufacturing Company, P.O. Box 140, Hartford, WI 53027. This company makes various
ventilation products. (As of September 2003) Broan makes Heat Recovery Ventilators, and has fans and blowers
available as replacement parts for a large variety of ventilation units they market. Below are listed a few of these
fan and blowers with some related statistical data (from 1990). To vary motor speeds for these models, model no.
57 solid state infinite speed control, 3 amp capacity ($22.95) is suitable.
Broan Centrifugal blowers
Part #
total CFM
97006021
100
97006022
160
Used For
ventilator 360
ventilator 361
Model # Price
$58.60
0.7
$61.30
1.0
Amps
Model # Price
512
$33.95
511
$78.95
Amps
1.0
1.5
Model # Price
42000
$21.90
40000
$21.20
Amps
0.8
(two speeds)
Used For
76000
88000
89000
362
363, 383
366
Model #
$46.40
$66.80
$87.40
$75.70
$81.60
$167.90
Price
225
155
270
115
165
390
5)
Northern Tool & Equipment Co., P.O. Box 1499, Burnsville, Minnesota 55337-0499. 1-800-533-5545. This
mail-order company occasionally has surplus fans and blowers at a low cost that could potentially be used in a heat
exchanger.
Below are listed other types of fans and blowers made by wholesale manufacturers. (as of 1992)
1. Howard Industries, P.O. Box 287, Milford, IL 60953. This manufacturer makes a number of sizes of lowwattage axial fans. The manufacturer sells only to distributors. Write to the manufacturer for a listing of
distributors. Below are listed a few of the 115 volt models.
Model #
CFM
Diameter
2672
70 cfm
4.7"
4315
100 cfm
4.7"
6052
120 cfm
6.72"
5812
180 cfm
6.72"
5804
240 cfm
6.72"
0101
560 cfm
10.0"
Power cord, 24" long, Model No. 6-170-672, $1.11 each
Watts
17 W.
19 W.
10 W.
18 W.
30 W.
37 W.
Price
$25.74
$25.74
$52.76
$55.54
$42.85
$55.46
2)
Fasco Industries, Inc., Motor Division Headquarters, 500 Chesterfield Center, Suite 200, St. Louis, MO
63017. The manufacturer sells only to wholesale distributors.
It may be possible to locate some of their
distributors or repair people through the yellow pages. The manufacturer makes a number of different types of
blowers and fans for specific commercial applications. Below are specifications of a few of the many blowers
made by Fasco.
75 cfm, Model B75, 115 V, 0.59 amps.
105 cfm, Model 50757-D500, 115 V, 0.55 amps.
120 cfm, Model 50746-D500, 115 V, 0.72 amps.
160 cfm, Model 50755-D500, 115 V, 1.0 amp.
180 cfm, Model B47120, 115 V, 1.95 amp.
212 cfm, Model A212, 115 V, 1.25 amps.
320 cfm, Model 50756-D500, 115 V, 1.3 amps.
When I first installed the heat exchanger, I used a screened inlet to keep insects out, and then I used
an in-line dust filter. Over time, I found conventional ("furnace") filters are NOT effective in keeping
dust out of the heat exchanger; dust also eventually clogs the fan blades and motor. I found that " thick
foam rubber (such as used for carpet padding or for thin cushioning) makes a very effective filter for dust.
I covered the outside air inlet with " foam rubber and made an additional 10" x 10" in-line filter (using
foam rubber) to keep dust out of the exchanger. I also used the same filtering system on the exhaust side,
prior to air reaching the exchanger. It is typically necessary to remove the intake filters and clean them
(using soap and water) usually every few months since they get progressively clogged with dust over time.
I later obtained filter foam from a store specializing in foam (and foam mattresses). The filter
foam I obtained in 1-inch thickness. I now use the filter foam as the in-line air filter. I also use the new
filter foam to replace the previous foam rubber, to cover the outside air inlet for the air-to-air heat
exchanger duct. I use the filter foam to replace the foam rubber for the inside of the exhaust air
plenum, to block dust from ever reaching the heat exchanger on the exhaust side.
I also used this type of filter foam to cover the two intake vents for our whole house ventilation
ducts, for the forced air heat system. (Actually I removed the intake grills, and found I could fit filter
foam inside that location.) I first covered the internal duct with hardware cloth (which is a wire mesh).
I put the filter foam against that wire mesh. The intake air must then flow through the filter foam, before
it enters the ductwork. Now when I clean the furnace filter I clean 3 filters: both of the intake filters
AND the regular filter inside the air handling unit of the forced air heater / air conditioner. The extra
intake filters block additional dust from entering the forced air ductwork of the house.
Ventilation
Ventilation means bringing fresh air into a building and exhausting the stale air to the
outdoors in a controlled fashion. Fresh air is easily provided by opening windows, which
increases the heating bill and causes drafts in cold weather. Another approach is to bring outside
air in through the furnace cold air duct, allowing the air to be heated on its way inside the house.
Specific areas of the house should be ventilated to remove moisture, odors, and contaminants.
Usually the kitchen, laundry room, and bathrooms should have air exhausted to the outdoors.
Exhaust fans have a difficult time getting enough replacement air to vent adequately in a tight
house. Instead of opening a window to feed the exhaust fan, it is preferable to provide the
needed fresh air using a special type of whole-house ventilator.
Having a slow rate of continuous ventilation will provide fresh air as well as exhausting
contaminants from the house. The efficiency of the heat exchanger is a measure of its heat
recovery capability. The efficiency rating can range from 50% to 90% in models commercially
available. It is also possible to construct a homemade heat exchanger, although it takes a
significant amount of work. The commercial exchangers tend to be somewhat expensive,
although they pay back the cost over time when compared to merely opening a window for
ventilation or having leaky doors or windows to allow infiltration. A properly arranged vent
plan for an air-to-air heat exchanger places exhaust ducts in the bathrooms and kitchen while
providing fresh air ducts for all other rooms. This could eliminate the need for individual
bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans; the heat exchanger fans remove contaminated air and supply
fresh air. Another approach is to route the exhaust fan ducts from the bathrooms and kitchen
into an exhaust air chamber, which then leads into exhaust chamber of the air-to-air heat
exchanger.
Part Three
HOUSE VENTILATION
Fresh Air for Tightly
Constructed Homes
The counterflow exchanger routes the exhaust and intake air through the exchanger in
opposite directions.
The typical crossflow heat exchanger schematic diagrams show the air streams passing at
right angles to each other; significantly more than 60% efficiency cannot be expected. A singlepass crossflow exchanger would require enormous amounts of heat-transfer area and a very slow
airflow rate to get high efficiency. Using the crossflow design, higher heat recovery is more
effectively obtained by a double-pass crossflow core.
Double-pass crossflow models, routing the air in two passes through the heat exchanger
core before exiting, give better efficiency. Single-pass crossflow models can be expected to get
50 to 55% heat recovery, although some companies claim their single-pass models get 75% heat
recovery. If the exchanger is made to have the air routed through in a double-pass, the first pass
recovers 53% of the heat and the second pass through the other heat exchange element recovers
53% of the remaining heat (0.53 x 0.47 = about 0.25). This results in about 78% heat recovered
for the two passes (0.53 + 0.25 = 0.78).
By lengthening the separation between the ports, the crossflow and counterflow models
begin to resemble each other. Indeed, there can be combinations of the crossflow and
counterflow designs.
The heat pipe exchanger transfers heat from one stream of air to the other by way of
conductive pipes extending from the exhaust to the intake air streams. Inside the heat pipes is
some form of refrigerant fluid, such as Freon, to transfer the heat from one side to the other.
The turning wheel picks up the heat from the outgoing stream and transfers
it to the cold stream about one-half rotation later. Redrawn from "HeatRecovery Ventilators," Consumer Reports (October 1985).
The rotary heat exchanger has a slowly turning heat recovery wheel that picks up heat
from one stream of air and transfers it to the opposing stream about one-half rotation later. The
rotary types range from small home models with a 16-inch-diameter exchange wheel, to huge
industrial exchangers with up to a 13-foot-diameter exchange wheel.
pg 142-144.)
5. Bryant Heat Recovery Ventilators. (No technical details of the products were shown on the web-site.)
(esshvac.com)
6. Carrier makes two different versions of ERVs for residential use. These appear to be single-pass
crossflow cores, designed for enthalpic energy and moisture recovery. Carrier is a widely-know
company with dealers throughout the USA.
7. Chester Dawe. Markets at least one type of HRV (KMH-150 Heat Recovery Ventilator). Many
locations in Canada. One such address: 1297 Topsail Road; P.O. Box 8280; St. John's, NF; A1B
3N4; (709) 782-3104
8. Chris Smith HVAC, Inc. Markets HRVs with single-pass aluminum crossflow cores. (cshvac.com)
9. Cleanaire. Markets single-pass crossflow HRVs. Avon Electric Ltd.; Christchurch, New Zealand. Ph
0800 379247
10. Eco Air 56 Bay Road; Taren Point, NSW 2229; Australia. Markets counterflow HRVs with
aluminum core. Ph: 61 2 9526 2133
11. Fantech; 1712 Northgate Boulevard; Sarasota, Florida 34234; 1-800-747-1762. Markets single pass
crossflow HRVs with polypropylene core
12. Grantair Technologies; 1470, Rome Blvd.; Brossard; (Quebec) J4W 2T4; Canada. Markets
residential HRVs and other products.
13. Heatilator Home Products; Hearth & Home Technologies; 1915 W. Saunders Street; Mt. Pleasant, IA
52641; (877-427-8368). Markets single-pass crossflow HRVs with aluminum cores and models of
ERVs.
14. Honeywell makes two different versions of single-pass crossflow HRVs with aluminum cores and
crossflow ERVs. These are marketed and installed by various companies, which can be found by
Internet search under Honeywell HRVs.
15. Kiltox Damp Free Solutions; 27 Park Row; Greenwich SE109NL; United Kingdom. Markets HRVs.
16. Lifebreath appears to be single-pass crossflow HRVs with aluminum core. Indoor Air Quality
Distributors; 83 Galaxy Blvd., Unit 19 ; Toronto, Ontario M9W 5X6; Canada (416) 674-7525; 1-877839-3036
17. Newtone Home Heat Recovery Ventilators, ph 800-525-7194. Appears to be single-pass crossflow
cores with enthalpic transfer (moisture absorbing/transmitting exchange plates).
18. Nu-Air Ventilation Systems; Newport, Nova Scotia; Canada, B0N 2A0; (902) 757-1910. Markets
HRVs, which appear to be single-pass crossflow cores (aluminum or plastic, depending on the
model).
19. Raydot, Inc.; 145 Jackson Avenue; Cokato, MN 55321; 800/328-3813 or 320/286-2103. Markets
HRVs for agricultural, industrial, and residential uses. (See this company under my 1989 listings.)
20. RenewAire (formerly Lossnay). Markets HRVs, which appear to be single-pass crossflow HRVs
with moisture absorbing/transmitting exchange plates. Sound Geothermal Corporation; Rt. # 3 Box
3010; Roosevelt, UT 84066; ph 435-722-5877
21. Summeraire. Markets residential HRVs. Appears to be single-pass crossflow design.
22. Venmar Heat Recovery Ventilators; Thermal Associates; 21 Thomson Ave.; Glens Falls, NY 12801;
1-800-654-8263; 518-798-5500. Markets HRVs, which appear to be single-pass crossflow, with a
polypropylene core.
23. Xetex, ph. 612-724-3101. Markets flat plate heat exchangers typically with aluminum cores and
rotary models. (See this company under my 1989 listings.)
Type of
core
Maximum
capacity
% Heat
recovery
Power
used
Length
Height
Width
1989
Price
18"
18"
18"
18"
12"
12"
12"
12"
$920
$1137
$1238
$1457
rotary
rotary
American Aldes
VMP H3/5
cross/counter
VMP H4/8
cross/counter
70 cfm
200 cfm
75-80%
75-80%
55 W
145 W
22"
29"
13"
17.5"
7.5"
10"
$438
$578
140 cfm
180 cfm
70%
70%
1.75 A
1.75 A
53.5"
53.5"
20"
20"
11.5"
11.5"
$979
$1015
N/A
57.5"
25"
8"
$220
1.3 A
18"
14"
12.5"
$290
N/A
12"
12"
12"
$290
N/A
$580
28"
17"
11"
$820
46"
46"
46"
8.3"
11.3"
14.3"
14"
18"
26"
$682
$764
$999
75 cfm
150 cfm
240 cfm
430 cfm
145 cfm
220 cfm
415 cfm
75%
73%
72%
85%
84%
83%
0.8 A
1.5 A
3.0 A
0.8 A
1.5 A
3.0 A
46"
46"
49"
58"
58"
61"
19"
19"
19"
19"
19"
19"
14"
14"
18"
14"
14"
18"
$357
$735
$795
$970
$805
$880
$1100
Enermatrix
EMX 10
EMX 15
EMX 20
EMX 25
103 cfm
103 cfm
121 cfm
250 cfm
75%
75%
75%
80%
2.11 A
2.11 A
2.11 A
2.42 A
28"
28"
28"
60"
18"
18"
18"
18"
13"
13"
13"
13.5"
$399
$429
$479
$899
Cargocaire
Large industrial-sized heat exchangers available in the rotary style
s.p. crossflow
s.p. crossflow
s.p. crossflow
d.p. crossflow
Power
used
Length
Height
76%
78%
84 W
260 W
60"
66"
25"
30"
15"
15"
$950
$1130
Mountain Energy & Resources, Inc. (makes heat pipe exchangers similar to QDT, Ltd.)
MER-150
heat pipe
160 cfm
70%
100 W
24"
MER-300
heat pipe
235 cfm
70%
180 W
26"
24"
32"
7"
13.5"
$585
$1085
NewAire
HE-1800c
HE-2500
HE-5000
s.p. crossflow
s.p. crossflow
s.p. crossflow
70 cfm
110 cfm
210 cfm
73%
78%
78%
55 W
120 W
240 W
18"
30"
30"
18"
20"
20"
13"
12"
21"
$420
$535
$795
QDT, Ltd.
SAE-150
heat pipe
150 cfm
70%
236 W
29"
22"
12.5"
$629
Raydot
RD-225-H
RD-150-H
RD-90-H
RD-225-V
RD-150-V
counterflow
counterflow
counterflow
counterflow
counterflow
225 cfm
150 cfm
90 cfm
225 cfm
150 cfm
63-82%
66-82%
71-86%
61-78%
63-79%
240 W
150 W
90 W
240 W
150 W
96"
96"
92"
14"
14"
17"
17"
9"
59"
59"
8"
8"
9"
14"
14"
$846
$728
$629
$867
$752
110 cfm
240 cfm
77%
70%
50 W 17.5"
100 W 22"
17.5"
23"
7.5"
8.5"
$550
$597
70 cfm
165 cfm
200 cfm
300 cfm
65%
80%
80%
80%
34 W
66 W
66 W
132 W
25"
39"
39"
39"
16"
12.5"
25"
25"
7.5"
15"
15"
15"
$307
$620
$770
$960
Xetex
HX-50
HX-150
HX-200
HX-250
HX-350
51 cfm
119 cfm
182 cfm
279 cfm
377 cfm
62%
80%
80%
80%
80%
74 W
80 W
120 W
125 W
157 W
11.5"
18"
25.5"
18"
25.5"
19"
24"
24.5"
32"
40"
7"
12.5"
12.7"
22"
22"
$395
$788
$902
$1242
$1533
Company
Model no.
Type of
core
Maximum
capacity
s.p. crossflow
d.p. crossflow
d.p. crossflow
d.p. crossflow
d.p. crossflow
Width
1989
Price
2.42 amps
volts
218 watts
Below is listed the Table of Contents for the text, Energy Conservation in Housing,
with the page numbers and topics, as they appear in the complete electronic
version of this text, as of October 2003.
Contents
Introduction
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Acknowledgments
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Technical conditions or problems with this electronic version . . .
vi
vii
viii
Part One.
1
1
6
9
16
19
22
23
Part Two.
Superinsulation: The Energy-Efficient Solution
Why Superinsulation? . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Resolving Vapor Barrier and Insulation Problems . . . . . .
Heat Loss Calculations . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shape of the Building and Heat Loss and Gain . . . . . . . .
Thermal Mass and the Drop of Temperature . . . . . . . .
Heating System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cooling Tubes for Summer Cooling?
. . . . . . . . . .
How Much Insulation Is Actually Needed?
. . . . . . . .
Heating Costs for the Year . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Applications of Energy Technology to New Homes . . . . . .
Retrofitting Insulation in Existing Homes
. . . . . . . .
29
29
35
42
43
44
48
51
54
58
74
Part Three.
House Ventilation:
Fresh Air for Tightly Constructed Homes
Evaluating Air-to-Air Heat Exchangers . . . . . . . . . .
Summary of Data on Commercially Available Heat Exchangers . . .
Air-to-Air Heat Exchangers: List of Selected Commercial Companies
Air-to-Air Heat Exchangers: Homemade Models . . . . . . .
82
88
91
96
Below is listed the Table of Contents for the text, Energy Conservation in Housing, with the page
numbers and topics, as they appear in the complete electronic version of this text, as of October
2003.
Part Four.
Additional Data on Energy-Efficient Housing
Comparative Costs of Insulation . . . . . . . . . . .
111
Assembling Superinsulated Walls . . . . . . . . . . .
115
Vapor Permeability of Materials . . . . . . . . . . .
116
Selecting the Appropriate Overhang for South Windows . . . .
119
Design Temperatures for Heating and Cooling for Selected Locations
122
Percentage of Sunshine for Selected Locations . . . . . . .
124
Ground Temperatures in Shallow Wells . . . . . . . . .
125
Magnetic Variations from True North . . . . . . . . .
126
Winter Solar Gain and Deviation from South . . . . . . .
126
Solar Position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
127
Clear-day Solar Gain for Double-glazed Windows
. . . . .
128
Moisture Condensation within Sealed Panes of Glass . . . . .
129
Other Energy-saving Ideas . . . . . . . . . . . . .
132
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
135
Related References
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
138
House Construction Information . . . . . . . . . . .
139
Manufacturers and Product Suppliers
. . . . . . . . .
140
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
145
Appendix:
Retrofitting basement insulation . . . . . . . . . .
147
Getting started on retrofitting and existing home . . . . .
150
Practical data on retrofitting basement floor insulation . . . .
151
Observations on vapor barrier effectiveness . . . . . .
152
Attic radiant barrier . . . . . . . . . . . . .
152
Air-to-air heat exchanger Update information . . . . . .
153