ISSN 1853-9610

MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE

N71 FEB - MAR 2015

FR
EE

nuevo??
5

contents
News Republic
Of men and tombs................................................... 7
The shipping news................................................... 7
Gratuitors behaviour............................................... 7
A day in the life of a Grape Picker
The reality of vendimia ......................................... 8
About Olive Oli
Olive Oil in Argentina: A skirted history....... 12
The Olive Oil trail....................................................13
Vendimia Events
Where & When....................................................... 18
Fuits Parade
Vendimia in Mendoza,
is not just about grapes......................................... 20

The Childrens of Llullaillaco.

A legend of one of the highest activities
volcano in the world........................................... 24
Wishlist
A preview into some of the newest wines
on the market........................................................... 22
Out & Abbout
Dinning out.............................................................. 26
Winery Guide.......................................................... 28
Bars............................................................................. 31
Maps & More
Useful information................................................ 33
Maps of Maip and Chacras de Coria............. 33
Map of Mendoza City Center............................ 34

CREDITS
Issue Feb - Mar 2015 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000
Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento
3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
E-mail: mariana@wine-republic.com
Editor: Charlie OMalley
Wine Editor: Amanda Barnes
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Design: Gimena Federici - Jona Conti.
jona@circlan.com. Circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Elizabeth Butler, Gilda Isoardi
Contributing Photography (The Childrens of Llullaillaco):
Rodrigo Muoz Luconi, Gilda Isoardi.
Illustrations: Donough OMalley,
www.pencilrobot.net
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine
Republic. www.wine-republic.com

NEWS REPUBLIC
Of Men and Tombs

The Shipping News

One of our main articles in this edition is about the mountain

mummies of Llullaillaco three Inca child sacrifices found
on a volcano in Salta in the northwest of Argentina. In
that provinces beautiful colonial city, you can now visit a
purpose built museum which displays the children and their
artefacts from what is possibly the highest burial ground in
the World. 30 years has passed since Mendoza discovered
it very own Inca sacrifice on Mt. Aconcagua in 1985. That
child remains in a freezer in a university basement with no
plans to give it a permanent home. Mendozas links with its
indigenous past are weak compared to the North. The tribes
here were moved on or massacred in the 19th Century.
All the more reason to build a museum and monument
dedicated to the provinces rich pre-Colonial history, with
the mountain mummy as its centre piece.

The high price of shipping wine back home sobers up a

lot of visitors in Mendoza and has stopped many a Malbec
mania shopping spree dead in its tracks. The fact that the
mailman wont take it means we are dependent on courier
companies that charge exorbant prices. That is why it is
always good news when new delivery companies appear
as a little more competition is bound to push down prices.
Taksa is one such endeavour, dedicated to delivering your
wine door-to-door anywhere in the USA within 72 hours.
It will be home before you are so make sure your neighbour
or doorman doesnt nab it. Check out www.taksa.com.ar

Gratuitous Behaviour
The agencies dont leave tips and neither do the tourists.
So complained the manager of a prominent winery
restaurant recently. He referred to the fact that winery
waiters fall between two stools when serving lunch to
tour groups or individuals who have booked through an
agency. The visitors presume it is all included and the
agencies leave the bare minimum, if anything at all. One
of the best things you can do in Mendoza is have a splendid
lunch in a winery. Dining through multiple courses with
multiple wines, whilst enjoying those splendid vineyard
views is the stuff of legends and has caused many a
culinary epiphany. You should show your appreciation by
leaving 30 pesos for the waiter.

A DAY
IN THE
LIFE OF
A GRAPE
PICKER

Amanda Barnes
takes us back to
the reality of
the vendimia.
Many people have a romantic image of grape picking:
fuelled by holiday packages grape in Southern France,
sun soaked paintings of pickers at dawn and Russell
Crowe movies. Even Mendozas Vendimia festival gives
the impression that the harvest is somewhat glamorous.
But beauty queens (who rarely visit a vineyard), parades
and cocktail parties are a mile apart from the tough
reality of grape picking. Hours are long, conditions are
difficult and payment is poor. Most cosechadores are
from northern Argentina or illegal workers from Bolivia
and they just about make a living travelling around doing
fruit and vegetable harvests of different seasons. Here
is `a day in the life of a grape picker compiled through
interviews with grape pickers, vineyard managers,
winery owners, other associated professionals and a
rather feeble day of grape picking in last years harvest.
A hard, but honest days work.
8

6.58 A.M.
In a squalid, run down rented house in Lujan de Cuyo
there is a musty smell of stale sweat as 17 grape pickers
sleep precariously in four shambolic rooms. Some lie on
mattresses, others on floor mats and three in hammocks
erected in the corners. Squeezed in together, sleeping head
to toe, this band of grape pickers will live in this delapidated
house as they see out the season (February to May) picking
in the vineyards. The travelling group come from a small
village in Southern Bolivia and have been picking in
Mendoza for 8 years, which they combine with picking
different fruit and vegetable harvests during the rest of
the year in Argentina. They keep together, knowing that
as 17 experienced black market pickers they have more
power as a group than individually. Aucapoma (who uses a
more Spanish name, Marcelo, in the vineyard) is the group
ringleader and constantly reminds them of their collective
power grape pickers could hold a vineyard owner to
ransom if they strike for better payment the morning of a
pick. Harvest time is precious and many vineyard owners
might just agree to pay. But Marcelo and the others know
that cosechadores are one a penny. And this year four of
them have been asked to do the prestigious night pick
again. It is too much work to risk losing.

7 A.M.
The alarm clock sounds next to Marcelos heaving body.
He swipes it with his arm, grunts and barks at the others
to wake up. Obediently everyone gets up and theres some
chatter among the four women as they peel apples and
heat the coffee and tortitas for breakfast. Marcelo jostles
people awake in a busy-body fashion, relishing in his role
as leader. He is not in charge for any particular leadership
qualities but rather because he was the first person
with a minivan a precious and essential commodity
for travelling harvesters - and so naturally this became
his clan some 10 years ago when he inherited the van
from his ill brother. The group has another rundown
minivan collectively bought which is how they travel
the country. Often they might camp but as the vendimia
(grape harvest) is almost 4 months long, they rent Snr
Velazquezs rundown finca house for 300 pesos a month
which includes water for the 1 flushing toilet, basic
shower and gas for the hob.

7.15 A.M.
Everyone piles into the minibuses heading to the vineyard.
They arrive 8 minutes early and wait to follow the bodega
truck to the vines.

7.30 A.M.
Picking starts. Catunta (aka Carlos) and his wife Mahala
(aka Maria) work in pairs: Maria picks, Carlos runs the
buckets to the truck. Today they are picking grapes for
wine that retail at $20 US. Carrying three empty 18 kg
crates, Carlos and Maria both start picking their row. Bent
over the vines with the crate directly below, Maria finds
the stalk and chops it with a pair of scissors, dropping it into
the crate careful not to take any leaves or bad bunches with
it. You are paid per crate so they pick as fast as they can.
It takes them 7 minutes to fill a crate and then Carlos hauls
one on his right shoulder and runs it to the truck to stack
it on the back and collect a ficha or token (worth $1.40 AR)
in exchange. He puts the token in his belt bag and runs for
the next crate.

10 A.M.
Cut. Drop. Cut. Drop. Cut. Drop. Its starting to get hot
and Marias lower back is aching from the crouching. She
keeps cutting.

12 P.M.
35*C and Carlos is pouring sweat as he runs with loaded,
heavy buckets to the van. At 56 it takes him longer than
it used to. Marias hands are caked with sugary juice from
the grapes. Its starting to irritate the cut on her forefinger
from a late Chardonnay harvest two weeks ago. She should
wash her hands and leave it a few days to heal but she
keeps going its only 1 hour until lunch break. Cut. Drop.
Cut. Drop. Carlos pauses for a slug of warm coke, Maria
catches his eye. He puts the coke down and pulls out his
scissors. Cut. Drop. Cut. Drop.

12.52 P.M.
Stop! calls the vineyard manager its their lunch break
and no staff member wants to lose one minute of it. Carlos
and Maria combine their crates, Maria quickly throws in
three more bunches to fill it and Carlos runs to the truck
as it pulls away towards the bodega. Someones brought a
bucket of water and they all wash the thick, sticky layer of
sugar off their purple hands. Water removes the sugar but
the bluish purple staining will last the season, and the dirt
is almost permanent. Maria looks at her hands and thinks
of the hands of the Vendimia queen in a poster she saw

plastered on the road side. She couldnt read what it said

beneath but did notice how clean, elegant and white the
young ladys hands were. Carlos is rummaging through
her woven bag, Maria pushes him out of the way and
delves her own hands in to produce their lunch: rice with
carrots and onion, a small piece of meat and a tortita each.
They eat with their hands whilst sat on the floor by the
shade of an olive tree and finish in 5 minutes. They use the
remaining 45 minutes to sleep.

2.12 P.M.
The permanent vineyard staff come back after their siesta.
The pickers had been complaining that they were running
ten minutes late - cutting into their picking time. But as the
truck pulls up they run out to the vines and start picking.
Carlos puts his hand straight behind a bunch and swears
loudly as a wasp stings him. Maria passes him a small onion
from her pocket. He digs around for his penknife with his
good hand and cuts a small slice of onion, wiping the white
juice on his sting. He replaces the peel and keeps the onion
in his pocket for dinner, or another sting.

3.45 P.M.
Carlos loads another bucket. The vineyard manager looks
in and tells Carlos to take out the leaves. He hollers at all
the pickers to pick grapes, not leaves. Carlos runs back
to the vines glaring at Maria who he sternly tells is not
paying enough attention. Maria, with her head deep in the
vines, blushes. Carlos touches her lightly on the back then
turns to pick again. Cut. Drop. Cut. Drop.

4.36 P.M.
Stop! We have enough! The vineyard manager shouts as
the final buckets are loaded on the truck. Carlos collects
their last token of the day. Carlos and Maria collected 78
crates, 78 tokens - $109.20 ($54.60 each for 8 hours work).
They hold onto the tokens to exchange at the end of the
week. Another water bucket is presented - Carlos washes
his sucrose soaked hands, minding his sting, and follows
the rest to the minivans, then home. Some men are already
talking about forging tokens. Carlos raises his eyebrows at
Maria its all talk, no-one would risk it. Carlos starts to
nod off and hopes theres a free mattress at the house.

9.30 P.M.
Carlos reaches over to turn off the alarm and pulls on
more clothes its cooler now. He goes to the kitchen for
some potato and corn stew the women have made. Maria
smiles with pride and brings him and the other three night
pickers a small bit of ham. Young Cesar (who isnt doing the
night pick) grunts at no ham, but understands.
9

9.50 P.M.
The four park the minivan and report to the vineyard
office. They await their instructions night picking is for
expensive wines that retail for $70US on foreign shelves.
The vineyard manager makes them each demonstrate the
technique: cut the bunch and squat, placing it in the crate.
Carlos doesnt fully understand the managers Spanish but
thinks he is telling them (again) how they are investing a
lot of trust in them as outside pickers, that they will be paid
$100AR per shift (not per bucket) and not to rush and lose
any precious juice. Carlos nods anyway and they troop to
the floodlit vineyards.

11 P.M.
Cut. Squat. Place. Cut. Squat. Place. Night picking is slower
and the cooler weather makes it nicer but working in the
dark has its problems: Carlos almost tripped with a full
crate not seeing a mound of earth, and he has just nipped
his finger with the scissors. He keeps quiet though, it will
stop bleeding soon.

11.40 P.M.
A television crew have arrived and are slowing down the
process even more. One journalist asks Carlos a question;
he stares blankly - unable to decipher the educated
Spanish. The vineyard manager cuts in directing the
journalist to a picker further down the vine a trainee
oenologist from Mendoza, working fulltime in the bodega.
Carlos blushes and keeps picking. His knees click each
time he bends to the bucket.

4.20 A.M.
The shift is over. They finished picking the vineyard
ahead of schedule and the manager is happy. All the
staff and the four bolivians walk back to the bodega.
A breakfast of coffee, pastries and ham and cheese
sandwiches is laid on a table. Marcelo eats three
sandwiches. Carlos catches the managers eye and only
takes two. The manager smiles and walks over with their
$400AR thanking them. The Bolivians walk back to
their minivan to rest before the day pick. The staff at the
bodega stay a while longer drinking mate and talking
about their plans for their day off in lieu.

10

4.45 A.M.
Carlos enters the house, there are no mattresses left and
Maria is sleeping on a hammock. He grabs the last sleeping
mat and goes to sleep outside instead.

7 A.M.
Carlos hears the alarm clock and Marcelo shouting from
inside. The sun is up and it is time to start picking.

With a special thanks to Charles Pestridge (Trout&Wine),

Pablo Gonzalez (Hacienda del Plata) and Gabriela Furlotti
(Finca Adalgisa) and many others for sharing their
knowledge and experiences.

Fair trade in Mendoza

Argentina has a long agricultural history but, like many
countries, much of it has been under poor working
conditions. In the past ten years there has been some
movement towards a few Fair Trade initiatives but these
are mainly driven by foreign consumer demands (coming
from Europe or the US).
Gabriela Furlotti who owns a boutique bodega in Chacras
noticed the growing demand for Fair Trade products and
wanted to use this consumer demand to try to improve
working conditions for some vineyard workers and
preserve dying out traditions in Mendoza. She wanted to
make fair trade wine, which meant being produced by all
legal workers (who have insurance, pensions and benefits)
under better regulated working conditions (a minimum
wage etc) along with many other strict requirements to
improve work, social and environmental impacts. But in
order to do this, something had to start from a more grass
roots level.
VinaSol is a co-operative of small producers and vineyard
workers and was created to enable small producers, local
cosechadores and other workers to have a means to
better working conditions; to enable small, independent
and local producers to resist being squeezed out and
stand their ground in what is becoming an increasingly
big and international game; and to preserve the historic
contratista system (which enables humble families to
work towards owning their own vineyard and opening
more opportunities for local people to take a part in their
land, not just wealthy foreign investors). This is the start
of an important shift to preserving the grape picking and
wine growing tradition to local families who can pass their
skills and land from generation to generation.
More information: www.vinasol.com.ar or www.solunawines.com

11

OLIVE OIL IN
ARGENTINA:
A SKIRTED
HISTORY.
Argentina is self
sufficent in oil
olive oil. Amanda
Barnes looks at its
colorful history.
As with all the very best legends, the genesis of olive oil in
Argentina is perfectly queer. The tale goes that when the
Spanish decided Argentina should no longer have their
own olive oil, they rampaged the country tearing out the
olive trees in the late 1600s. One crafty native lady in
Almogasta, La Rioja, didnt want to see olive trees disappear
from her land and so with the best will in the world, she
shoved one up her skirt.
Colorful fabric billowing, the Spaniards didnt notice
this olive tree sapling hidden under her delicates and
they rode on to terrorize the next village. Thanks to the
cunning trickery of this riojana woman the olive tree
survived, and all of Argentinas olive trees are said to have
come from this one mother sapling. This particular olive
tree is also said to have spawn Argentinas first and only
native species, the Arauco.
It is no surprise that the lady wanted to obscure the
precious olive tree and keep it growing in her home land
considering olive oils long and austere past one filled
with passion, trickery and war torn lands. Cultivated
since at least 5000BC, olive oil has been one of the most
precious and treasured commodities in history. Aside from
nutritional, medicinal and practical uses, it was seen as a
symbol of wealth, power and glory.
Homer referred to it as liquid gold in The Odyssey, which
is one of the first mentions of this juice in around 850BC.
Ancient Greek athletes would rub it into their skin before
fights to remain unscathed and protect them from the sun;
while the Spartans would rub it into theirs when working
out in order to lure a few wayward eyes. Olive oil was
12

anointed on the heads of kings, martyrs and saints, and it

was dripped into tombs of important figures to lubricate
their drying bones, including those of Tutankhamen. It
was always revered as a luxury product and at one point it
was worth its own weight in gold literally as a trading tool.
With records of cultivation stretching back 7000 years,
olive oil has played a significant role in history and is part
of the essential culinary fabric of Europe and Middle East,
where you can still find trees dating back to Biblical times.
Production in Argentina began in the mid 1500s as the
homesick Spanish immigrants wanted to emulate their
own cooking from home, which relied heavily on olive oil.
Production grew, the groves blossomed with the countrys
bounteous sunshine and it too became part of everyday
life for Argentineans. But as with all highly revered things,
jealousy festered and the Spanish tore down the trees they
themselves had introduced. They wanted to avoid losing
their own stake back in Spain in this prestigious industry.
Thanks to the native skirt smuggler, olive oil production
reignited, continued and was later bolstered by a new
influx of European immigrants, who still wanted to cook
like at home. After bearing the brunt of a 20 year dip in the
70s due to economy issues and poor quality blending with
low cost oils, Argentina now has over 110,000 hectares of
olive trees, produces around 100,000 tons of olive oil and
is one of the premium producers exporting to around 30
countries worldwide.
With increasing prestige around the globe and a growing
clutch of awards, Argentinas reputation as a quality olive
oil producer is certainly improving. However another
potential olive oil crisis is looming as the country struggles
to compete with increasingly lower European prices
(due to the economic crisis and overproduction); complex
importation laws making foreign machinery expensive
to bring in; and trade embargoes with countries who are
fed up of Argentinas own trade embargoes against them.
Whether the country will be able to sustain earning gold
for their olive oil is a questionable matter, but for now
Argentinas delicious olive oil is certainly liquid gold itself,
and all thanks to a sneaky lady and her skirt.

THE
OLIVE
OIL
TRAIL.

Olivicola Simone

Lots of
people get
well-oiled
on a wine
tour in
Mendoza
but you
can also
seek out
olive
houses.
Elizabeth
Butler hits
the Olive
Oil Trail
in Maipu.

Maguay

Located right off the main drag of

Ozamis in Russel, Maipu, Olivicola
Simone is a petite processing site that
produces big, bold flavors. Owned
by father and son Miguel and Jose
Luis Simone, they offer personalized
tastings of their products in their
tasting room on site, which is also
where they sell all of their products
since you will not find them on store
shelves where you can also buy nonolive products ranging from sundried tomatoes to chutneys, nuts, and
jams. (Ozamis Sur 1553 Russell, 0261481 1151, www.olivicolasimone.com)

Going from one family business to

the next, Olivicola Maguay was our
next stop only a few blocks down the
road. Here the farmland and family
business have been around since 1920,
and it shows in not only the quality
of their product, but also the elegant
architecture and antique feel of their
estates on site. They offer bilingual
tours through their olive trees and
production houses where you can
learn about the entire life cycle of
the olive. Maguays flagship product
is their collection of brined olives,
but their extra virgin olive oils are
elegant, refined and worthy of equal
recognition. (Ozamis Sur 1491 Russel,
0261 497 2632, www.maguay.com.ar)

Olivicola Laur
Olivicola Laur stands out for
its fantastic informative tour of
their facilities and on-site olive oil
museum. In the museum they have
collected old tools and presses from
the first olives pressed in Mendoza,
and their friendly guides take you
through each step of the history and
process. After, they offer a tasting of
their products in their well-stocked
storefront. One of their standout
products includes their Blend de
Terroir Olive Oil collection where
each line is produced only from
olives from one distinctive region in
Mendoza. They also are constructing
a soon-to-be-finished restaurant/caf
on site for visitors to eat and relax in
on their beautiful property. (Videla
Aranda 2850, Cruz de Piedra, 0261499 0716, www.laursa.com.ar)

Pasrai
When you enter Pasrai, you feel like
youve just stumbled upon a secret
garden. Their reception area is full
of olive, lemon, peach, cherry, and
apricot trees, along with beautiful
flower and herb plants that thrive
on their sunny patio. On their tour
you learn how Pasrai has dedicated
themselves
to
the
traditional
practices of olive oil making, and
how this business has run in the
Muravnik family blood for decades
(hence the name of their extra virgin
olive oil line Quinta Generacion
or Fifth Generation). From their
outstanding flavored olive oils to
their deliciously sweet dried fruit
and sundried tomatoes, it is unlikely
you will leave empty handed after
the tasting at the end of the tour.
Reservation recommended. (Ozamis
Sur 2731 Russel, (0261) 154 7076 76,
www.pasrai.com.ar)
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14

15

16

17

VEN
DI
MIA

EVENTS

FEBRUARY

MARCH

Fiesta Nacional de la Tonada.

Bendicin de los Frutos

Tunuyn.

Festa in Piazza: Italian Festival.

Plaza Italia, Mendoza.

Fiesta de La Cosecha.
Mendoza Airport.

Jazz on the Lake.

San Martin Park. FEB 18-19-20.

Vendimia en ArenaStadium,Arena Maipu. FEB 27,28,29.

San Martn Park. MAR 1

Megadegustacin Vendimia
Street Wine Tasting, Sarmiento Street. Mendoza

Va Blanca de las Reinas

Night time parade. San Martn Street. MAR 6. Starts 10 p.m.

Carrusel Vendimial
Day time parade. San Martn Park. MAR 7. Starts 10a.m.

Acto Central (Vendimia Festival)

Anfiteatro Frank Romero Day. San Martn Park.
MAR 7, starting 9:30 p.m.

Acto Central Repeat

Read more about these events:
www.cultura.mendoza.gov.ar
www.ciudaddemendoza.gov.ar
www.vivivendimia.com.ar
www.rdlb.com.ar

18

Anfiteatro Frank Romero Day. San Martn Park. MAR 8,9, 10.

Rally de las Bodegas

MAR 12,13,14.

19

20

JAN

MAR

OLIVES
27% of production area. 20,000 hectares

FEB

APPLES (MANZANOS)
4.5% of production area. 3,500 hectares

PLUMS (CIRUELA)
24% of production area. 18,000 hectares

DEC

PEARS (PERAS)
7% of production area. 5,000 hectares

PEACHES (DURAZNOS)
20% of production area. 15,000 hectares

FRUIT
PARADE
Vendimia in Mendoza is not just
about grapes. The province is
Argentinas main fruit producer
and the different harvests take
place throughout the summer.

APR

21

WISHLIST: FRESH OFF THE PRESS.

As we settle into a New Year and
we get ready for the 2015 harvest
over the coming months, there are
many wines from last harvest or
harvests previous only just coming
to light. Amanda Barnes gets a
sneak preview into some of the
newest wines on the market.

Nieto Senetiner, Semillon DOC 2014

Since young winemaker Santiago Mayorga joined the
team at Nieto Senetiner there has been a slight shift in the
direction of this traditional wine producer focusing on more
single-vineyard concepts. One of the results is this excellent
value Semillon. Recently launched, this is the only DOC
white wine in Argentina and uses a variety that used to be
more widespread than Malbec. Although Semillon is still in
decline in Argentina, this wine might make some change
their mind about the overlooked variety: a floral, orchardfruit nose with a rich mouth and good body. Super value at
$100pesos.
Cara Sur, Criolla 2014
Criolla was the first grape that Spanish settlers brought with
them over 500 years ago, without any set classifications it
is seen as table grape and completely underrated. While
Criolla gets a lot of bad press here, this wine will certainly
shake things up. Coming form a very unique vineyard in
high altitude Calingasta Valley (in the San Juan district
next to Mendoza), this is fabulously easy-to-drink that will
change your ideas about Criolla. Fresh, fruity, and rather
pretty - drink this chilled and make sure to order two bottles
before the limited stock runs out!
Zorzal Eggo, Franco 2014
Cabernet Franc has been the darling of Mendoza for a
couple years now, but this Cab Franc is bit of a revelation.
The latest in the Eggo line from Zorzal, this also comes
with zero oak and has only been aged in cement so you
get a real sense of the fruit of the vineyard with minimal
intervention. Coming from Gualtallary in one of the highest
parts of the Uco Valley with deep rocky soils, this is a
beautiful streamline wine with a brooding darkness and a
spicy lift at the end.
Zuccardi Poligonos, San Pablo 2014
Sebastian Zuccardi comes from one of the most respected
wine families in Mendoza, but that doesnt mean he is
playing by the rules. As a result of Sebastians extensive
Uco Valley terroir research, this Malbec comes from a
vineyard 1400m in altitude in San Pablo and is vinified and
conceptualised more closely to a Pinot Noir. An exuberantly
fruity nose with a crunchy acidity leaving a fresh finish,
this is a Malbec unlike youve tasted before. At only 12%
alcohol, youll glug the entire bottle in no time. Good thing
too because it is currently being sold in a pack of 3 since its
launch in late 2014.
Super Uco, Fratello 2012
The Michelini brothers are a tour-de-force in the Uco
Valley, and this is their latest creation. Fratello - Italian for
brothers - wont be the same every year, but this sublime
first year is anything to go by it will soon be a cult favourite.
A super small production of Syrah with a touch of Malbec,
this comes from a very special spot in Tupungato where the
vines have been left to grow freely without any chemical
treatment and the wine is a glorious success: texture, dark
fruit, wonderful spice, and finesse. This will be one of the
years most collectable wines - stock up now!

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23

THE CHILDREN OF
LLULLAILLACO
Gilda Isoardi climbs one of the highest
active volcanoes in the World and
rediscovers its legend.
Contributing Authors: Elizabeth Butler and Gilda Isoardi.
Photography: Rodrigo Muoz Luconi and Gilda Isoardi.

When Gaby, my adventure partner

in the mountain, told me that our
next expedition was to Llullaillaco
Volcano, I became convinced that
not only was this journey going to be
one of the most fascinating things I
have ever done, but also somehow,
transforming.
Despite its formidable height of
6,739 meters (22,109 feet), The
Llullaiaco Volcano was never a
famous mountain. Deep in the puna,
this lonely summit always kept its
enviable tranquility. There, in the
kingdom of sand known as Atacama,
there is no settlement of any sort for
kilometers around. Far away from
the spotlights that big mountains
such as Aconcagua or Ojos Del Salado
cannot avoid, silent Llullaiaco kept a
secret so well hidden that it took men
almost five hundred years to discover
it. The first expedition in 1952 came
back with the amazing story that up
there on the summit were Inca ruins,
kindling a mystery that has since
surrounded the mountain. It wasnt
until 1999 that a National Geographic
expedition led by Johan Reinhard
managed to weather the rough
conditions and after thirteen days of
intense work finally retrieved what
we all now know as the the Children
of LLullaiaco. Freeze dried, these three
sacrificed Inca children were perfectly
preserved right down to their dark
eyelashes and hair.
24

Our 1500km journey begins in

Mendoza. We are five - Rodri, Julio,
Sergio, Gaby and I. We are a tight
group that consolidated some years
before when we proved that we can
survive ten days in the mountains
without killing each other. Our two
vehicles set out from Tupungato to
realize the vast northern desert of
Argentina. With one or two roadside
stops for homemade salami, we finally
made it to Salta, the colonial city that
breathes folklore. Fantastic weather
greeted us everywhere and we hoped
it would stay just like that. The city is
old, at least by Argentine standards.
Wistfully romantic with its historic
churches and cobbled streets and
somehow everything seems to be
sponsored by Gemes, the Salteo
independence hero. It took a few days
to get our permits ready for the climb
and do the supermarket shopping a
problematic endeavor when you are
five people with different tastes. We
than made an obligatory stop and
paid a visit to the MAAM (Museo de
Arqueologa de Alta Montaa) a
modern museum especially built to
safely exhibit the mountain mummies
of Llullaiaco. The bodies take turns in
display to avoid overexposure. That
day I had the Lightening Girl stare
back at me. So called because half her
face is burned pitch black, the result
of a lightening bolt that struck her
on the mountain. I confess the effect
of her apparition wasnt as poetic as I

anticipated, yet there was no denying

the poignancy of the exhibit which
included the childs moccasins, half
worn from her epic walk from Peru.

That day I had the Lightening

Girl stare back at me
The road to LLullaiaco volcano goes
through many little forgotten towns,
where there are more churches than
houses and always a little cemetery,
sometimes bizarrely split in two by
the road. Herds of llama and sheep
are scattered all over the hills and
often followed by their solitary
owners in their colorful clothing that
points them out in the immensity of
the Puna. We arrived at San Antonio
de los Cobres, the last big town before
we were thrown into the desert. To
spend the night in San Antonio is a
moving experience. How on earth can
these people have made this world so
set apart from others? Its a wonder.
Some of them are wonderfully kind
and welcoming to us. The owner of
our hostel made such an impression
on us that he inspired a very decent
poem by Julio, so decent we couldnt
make fun of him.
Our next stop was Tolar Grande.
This place was very important to us
for two reasons; one of them water.
We needed to fill our 65-liter tank
for the expedition. You dont want
to arrive without water to a place

thats called deceptive water, for

thats what Llullaillaco means. The
second but no less important reason
is that we needed the approval of
the native chief to enter the volcano
park. Quipildor was a bit reticent at
the beginning, but Gabrielas big blue
eyes ended up somehow convincing
him. For some reason he only wanted
to deal with her. He was small and
thin and always with a bunch of
coca leaves wedged in his cheeks.
He has climbed all the surrounding
volcanoes, many in one day.

We needed the approval of

the native chief to enter
In Tolar, we were able to get the approval
of Quipildor but unfortunately no
water. Instead we were sent to Caipe.
A forgotten railway settlement known
for its water spring. Enclosed in pure
silence, the abandoned town humbly
presented its rags of old glory. Two tall
poplars that drunk from a spring, gave
some life to the scene, like if somebody
was looking after them. Lower down,
a little cemetery curled up in a wide
balcony that looked unshakable
towards the wide salt plain of Arizaro
like it longed for the sea. All of Caipe
was now an immutable redoubt,
almost inaccessible, where people
arrived either by chance or compelled
by the necessity of water.
The station almost worked as a fun
park for us that day. Abandoned train
wagons to which you could climb,
and a handcar that we pushed up and
down the railway until the splinters
from the rotten wood were to painful
to ignore. That night we decided to
spend in the church, the only well
preserved building in the village.
In front of it lay with complicity an
undeniable feature of Argentine life - a
football field, a characteristic that was
repeated in every single abandoned
town. We made our refuge close to the
altar and felt a certain sacrilege. That
night nobody left the church. There
was a full moon outside and though
we were brave for the mountains, we
dared not face a ghost town.

the summit gave away its height. We

shivered and started talking about
technical facts. In the mountain your
head is the most important thing even more than your legs. Anxiety is
a crucial feeling that you must control
and seeing that mountain two hours
before you are even close to the base
was a difficult challenge. The wind
shaped landscape seemed to unfold in
front of our eyes as we were getting
closer. We crossed the salt plain of
Llullaiaco under the curious look of a
small colony of flamingos that were
knee deep in salt. At last we were at the
base of Llullaiaco.
For more than two days we were
acclimatizing, making approaches and
coming back until we finally reached
the upper altitude camp. The idea was
to attempt the summit the following
day. To our concern Gaby wasnt
feeling very well, and silence became a
symptom of that worry.
At 6000m above sea level to sleep
is almost impossible, let alone in a
horizontal position which makes it
even harder to breath. The worries
we had about Gabriellas health
dissipated as soon as she woke up fully
recovered the following morning. The
mountain stood disproportionally
before us as we mentally prepared for
the climb. At 5am in the morning we
dressed, putting layer over layer until
you couldnt distinguish who was
who. Before we set out, we gathered
together and to gain the favor of the
gods, uncorked a bottle of wine from
Mendoza and offered it to Pacha Mama
(Mother Earth).

A small colony of flamingos

that were knee deep in salt
The first four hours of climbing on a
summit day are always the hardest,
usually the moment in which you ask
yourself what on earth are you doing
there, and this wasnt the exception.
Five hours went by and we werent
even close to the edge. I turned to Julio
and asked him how he was.

The slope was steep and the rock

loose.
Finally the possibility of
actually getting to the summit
became real. All of a sudden, Julio
pointed out some Inca ruins 40
meters ahead. Emotion. Behind
them the summit could be clearly
seen. We gathered together for some
motivational speeches of a sort; this is
what we came here for, we are almost
there etc. and sought that last burst of
strength for the final part.
I would only say that I am now used
to seeing my fellow boy partners cry
on summits because they always
do. But in this case I have never seen
them cry so much. The summit with
its burial ground zoomed in on us
while everything else seemed to fall
down. Far away down, an incredible
view of salt plains and volcanoes
shaped up and into the horizon. The
fact that so long ago a tireless group of
Inca pilgrims has walked such a long
distance to get there, made it ever
more moving. We stood in ecstasy for
longer than was prudent.

Bored! He grunted with

his last breath of irony.
When I said at the beginning of this
article that this experience had been
transforming I meant that mountains
are not only about summits. The
summits are just the final dot to one
part of the experience, the one that
tells you that your work is done and
you can go home. But mountains
begin much earlier, teaching you
indefectibly that to get there you have
to be constant, perseverant, and go a
great deal before you see any result.
We as a group always come back from
these experiences much more united.
Funny enough we get on better in
the mountain than in civilization.
Personally I discovered a different
Argentina, an Argentina that is native,
as slow and graceful as its lamas, good
natured, kind and colorful. Above all
I discovered a proud continuation of a
fallen kingdom.

The following day we saw it. We were

passing the mine of La Casualidad
and came to a vast, empty plain when
Llullaiaco made its appearance on
the horizon. The distinct shape of the
sarcophagus (a lava formation on the
east wall of the volcano) delineated the
final edge to the summit. It looked small
from where we were but the snow on
25

dining out
Grill Q

MENDOZA CITY

Grill Q

Ituzaingo

For an intimate, unusual and memorable

evening - Ituzaingo is one of the
citys best kept secrets. A closed door
restaurant located in a historic house
in the bohemian quarter, Ituzaingo
has been receiving rave reviews from
locals, expats and travellers alike who
relish in the warm atmosphere, good
company, unique art, and good food
all accompanied by an eclectic music
mix. The maestro in question is Gonzalo
Cuervo who likes to welcome in up to 45
people in his attractive loft conversion
house or leafy summer garden, and his
chef Francisco can delight guests with an
eight course menu of Argentine flavours
catered to an international palate, or
simply relax with a glass of wine. This
is a real place to meet the wines, food,
art, music and hospitality of Argentina.
8 course menu of argentine cuisine with
3 glasses of wine and a welcome drink,
or you can order sharing plates and
wine by the glass. For those who like to
learn more about regional culture and
gastronomy Ituzaingo has the option of
an Argentinean Cooking Class which
is a lot of fun and educational. Prices
between 400 and 500 pesos per person
(wines included). Open Mon, Wed, Fri &
Sat from 8.30pm. Reservations essential.
Ituzaingo Resto, tel (261) 15 666 5778,
cocina@ituzaingoresto.com.a

26

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill

Q serves up traditional regional cuisine
at a five star level. Sit back in the chic
parilla style restaurant amongst the
cowhides and local artwork, pick from
one of the many Mendocinean wines,
make your order and watch the chefs
at work in the open kitchen. They are
famous for their grilled meats and
gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty
Argentine classics such as locro - a
stew which hails back to the early
independence days. Save room for
the stunning desserts. The Hyatts
other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a
more gourmet evening menu and
the most exuberant lunch menu in
town. With a gorgeous buffet spread
of starters like squid and basil stew,
crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and
mezze style tapas, youll need to bring
your stretchy waistbands to fit in the
hearty and flavourful main options
and the sumptuous dessert buffet on
top. Put aside an hour or two for this
tempting lunch or make your way here
in the evening to try the Mediterranean
inspired dishes including delicious
pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts
of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $240 pesos. Bistro
M Executive Menu $270 with starter
buffet, main course, dessert buffet and
glass of wine.

Patrona

This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a

casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every night
of the week who come for the honest,
traditional Argentine food and friendly
and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes
like the hearty empanadas and sizzling
asado are worthy and popular fare but
the real star here is Patronas warm,
open sandwiches We recommend the
artichoke hearts and goats cheese;
roasted vegetables with white wine and
honey; or the more traditional pick of
rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent
wine list and some satisfying desserts
complete the gastronomy experience
but the key to Patrona is the cosy way
that they really make you feel at home.
Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.
Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm
- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal
cost: $140/(including starter, main dish,
dessert+a glass of wine)

El Mercadito

With an attractive fairy lit patio and

terrace outside, this is the perfect spot
for some lunch time sunshine or al
fresco dining. Run by three friends,
El Mercadito has a cool vibe and
relaxed music making it a favorite.
Opened recently by three friends,

El Mercadito is offering something a

little bit different to Mendoza. With a
cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive
waiting staff, this is quickly becoming
a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to
eat or evening cocktails. Opening in
the morning for healthy breakfasts and
antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays
open throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads and
some Argentine classic meals. Chow
down to big healthy salads like the
Langoustine with huge juicy prawns,
fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck
into one of their big toasted sandwiches
like smoked salmon and cream cheese,
or jamon crudo and arugula served
with chunky chips and homemade
BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make
sure to try out one of their yummy
strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito,
Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847.
Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria:
Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

La Marchigiana

As the first Italian restaurant in

Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty
of history and traditional recipes to
whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria
Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family
restaurant started off with only six
hearty Italian dishes but has grown
into a popular local fixture which is
always busy despite its curious lack of
ambience. The pasta is the best thing
here, maintaining original recipes from
over 60 years ago; we recommend the
huge stuffed ravioli. Check out the Brad
Pitt photo for celebrity credentials. La
Marchigiana, Patricias Mendocinas 1550.
(261) 4230751. Avg. meal price: $130

Anna Bistro

Anna Bistro has been an important

restaurant on Mendozas food scene
since it opened 8 years ago, however
that doesnt stop it from renovating
itself each year. This year Jerome and
his team have started smoking their
own salmon and cheese to add a bit
more flavour to some dishes and you
can try the rich salmon on delicious
brioche and go the whole hog with a pot
of delicious steaming, garlicky prawns.
Along with a handful of salmon dishes
there are a host of different foods on
the menu including classic steak, rich
lamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighter
options including big salads, sharing
platters and vegetarian dishes. While
lunch and dinner is still its main game,
the beautiful gardens and restaurant
are open for breakfast from 8am
offering unending treats from their
own French patisserie and the late
afternoon is perfect for sipping your
way through the extensive cocktail list
or take your pick from the arm long
wine list. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261)

425 1818. Everyday 8am till late. Avg.

meal cost: $190 pesos.

Al Pasillo

Al Pasillo

Underground dining is a hot scene

in Argentina, and Puerto Rican-New
York chef Angelo and his wife Claudia
are bringing a bit more heat into
the kitchen with their new puertas
cerradas restaurant Al Pasillo. Friday
and Saturday nights their beautiful
patio garden transforms into an
intimate dining space where five
courses of Caribbean-themed cuisine
is paired with local wines. Coconut
shrimp, Venezuelan arepas and
pineapple rum cake are just a couple
of the delights that bring a bit of spice
into Mendozas food scene.
Location on reservation, call Angelo
(261) 680 9191, $400 for 5 courses
including wine and coffee.
OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Terruo - Club Tapiz

Tucked away among the sprawling

Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort
and its lovely restaurant Terruo. This
handsome eatery boasts an elegant
interior, excellent service and a wine
list that is sure to please even the
most finicky of wine snobs. Their
chef compiles a tantalising menu
that includes top notch lomo steaks, a
rotating range of salads and a savory
ginger/honey chicken dish that is
second to none. If you like what you
see and taste, book a room in one of
their seven Renaissance-style villas.
Dont forget to call ahead for dinner
reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip.
AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.
Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner,
Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $370 pesos.

Los Negritos
Right in the middle of Las Vegas (in
Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza)
this restaurant stems from a story
of a family who came to live in here
one of the first weekend houses
constructed in the area. They named
their home los negritos a nickname
of their two young children. Many
years later, one of the negritos
(Enrique) decided to leave the bustle
of the city, moved to the mountains
and opened a restaurant with his
wife , in Las Vegas. The restaurant
serves lunch and dinner every
weekend and on public holidays
and the cuisine is flavourful and
typically Argentine with stews
(such as Tomaticn and mondongo)
milanesas, humita and homemade
pasta - many of the recipes used are
old family recipes. The restaurant
has been recognized as part of the
gastronomical route and is noted for
its quality of cooking, architecture
and landscape.
Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos.
(261)155697431. Avg: $120.

27

the winery guide

Nieto Senetiner

Dante Robino

The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina

is a beautifully restored bodega with
well-appointed tasting room. Fav. Wine:
Cheval de los Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5.
Thames and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn
de Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Located in a beautiful old winery in

Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888
and makes a great range of wines and
sparkling wines and offers horseback
riding in the vineyards and asado style
lunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja
S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
nietosenetiner.com.ar

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric oldstyle winery with a modernist, lightfilled tasting room with excellent view
of mountains and vines. (0261) 488
7229 Ext. #2. Callejn Maldonado 240,
Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

Clos de Chacras

Melipal

LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los Andes

Charming boutique operation with nice

history. A five minute walk from Chacras
plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe. (0261) 496
1285/155 792706. Monte Libano s/n, Lujn
de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches

make Melipal one of the most exclusive
wineries to visit. (0261) 4790202. R.N.7,
1056km, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegamelipal.com.ar

Luigi Bosca

Mendel

The Arizu dynasty are the royal

family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome and
elegant 110-year old winery. Classical
architecture, ancient atmospheric cellars
and rich wines such as the Finca Las
Nobles range make for a fascinating
visit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044,
Mayor Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
luigibosca.com.ar

Renacer
This Chilean-owned winery creates
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tour that includes a
hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen
1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

Kaiken
This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a
new venture by the prestigious Chilean
winery Montes. Big and powerful wines,
destined for fame. TEL (0261)-487 72 15
INT 113 / Movile (0261-153 530 789) /
Movile (0261-155 509 453) Roque Saenz
Pea 5516, Las Compuertas, Lujn de
Cuyo. Open from Mon to Sat from 8 AM
to 6:30 PM/SUN and holidays from 9 AM
to 1 PM. www.kaikenwines.com

Catena Zapata
Showcase winery designed like a Mayan
temple overlooking vineyards and the
Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.
(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.catenawines.com

Alta Vista
Masterful mix of modern and
traditional. Tasting includes distinctive
Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs.
(0261) 496 4684. lzaga 3972, Chacras
de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
altavistawines.com

28

An old style winery ran by one of

Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar

Via Cobos

Septima
A beautifully designed winery with
clear views of the mountains and a large
terrace used for sunset wine events
after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Owned by
the Spanish experts in sparkling wine,
Codorniu, they make fab sparkling
wine under label Maria. (261) 498 9550,
Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
bodegaseptima.com

Bonfanti
A lovely winery in a pastoral setting.
Up close and personal tours with the
owners themselves and a tasting room
set amidst the vines. (0261) 488 0595.
Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo.

American winemaker Paul Hobbs

was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
vinacobos.com

Pulenta Estate

Tapiz

Norton

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end

restaurant Terruo and an instructive
wine tour including barrel and bottle
tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial
15, Km 32. Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.tapiz.com

Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays are
popular with the locals. (0261) 490 9700.
R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Lujn de Cuyo.
www.norton.com.ar

Belasco de Baquedano

Benegas Lynch

Gleaming
modern
facility
with
fascinating aroma room and restaurant
with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
belascomalbec.com

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely

old bodega with lots of character. Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496
0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.
bodegabenegas.com

Piattelli

Navarro Correas

A lovely family owned winery done

in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch on
a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:
Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.
Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
piattellivineyards.com

The closest winery to Mendoza city, easily

accessible Navarro Correas is a modern
winery with great sparkling wines and
fun tasting options. (0261) 4597916. San
Francisco del Monte 1555, Godoy Cruz.
www.ncorreas.com

Cruzat

Caelum

A boutique traditional sparkling wine

producer with gorgeous bubbles that can
be enjoyed from their terrace overlooking
vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Flores, s/n,
Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Modern, medium size winery on the main

road to Chile just before the mountains
and has a nice family feel to it. Fav. Wine:
Rosado. (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

Cool minimalist design and rich

complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Fav. Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. www.
pulentaestate.com

REFERENCES

LOCATIONS REFERENCES

Restaurant
Lodging
Driving time from Mendoza City

Lujn de Cuyo

San Martn

Maip

Valle de Uco

Mendoza City

Art Gallery

Carmelo Patti

Chandon

Ruca Malen

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making

great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,
Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegaschandon.com.ar

Excellent food, great guiding and firstclass wines. The pairings over lunch
make for an unforgettable culinary
experience. (0261) 5537164 - 2614540974.
R.N.7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.bodegarucamalen.com

Mendozas most famous garagista.

Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin 2614,
Lujn de Cuyo.

Dominio del Plata

Decero

Dolium

Argentinas most famous female

winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in the heart
of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba
7801 Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
dominiodelplata.com.ar

Attractive, modern facility with

spectacular views of the mountains from
the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 4748.
Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.decero.com

A completely underground winery

with innovative design and top notch
Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km 30
s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

Lagarde

Estrella de los Andes

On a leafy road in the middle of Lujan,
this winery has a cool, retro diner with
well presented and tasty Argentine
dishes that wont break your bank.
Open all day and a relaxed atmosphere.
Olavarria 225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190.
www.bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Tucked away in a restored winery in

Las Compuertas, you can taste single
vineyard and terroir blend wines from
both of these ambitious projects from
under one roof. Walk-ins welcome.
Roque Senz Pea 8450, Las Compuertas,
Lujn de Cuyo. (261) 562 9134/35.www.
durigutti.com www.lamadridwines.com

Owner of the oldest white wine in

South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100 year old
vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. San Martin
1745, Mayor Drummond. Lujn de Cuyo.
www.lagarde.com.ar

La Madrid/Durigutti

Durigutti & La Madrid

Although both separate endeavours,
Durigutti and La Madrid both share
a winemaker and a refurbished,
historic winery in the handsome
Las Compuertas region. A visit is
a chance to try both the different
styles of wines: La Madrid focuses
on single vineyard wines from
their vineyards in Lujan de Cuyo,

whereas Durigutti make terroir

blends of single varieties picking
top vineyards for each variety from
around Mendoza. Both offer lush
and concentrated wines which
especially stand out for the old vine
Malbec, good Cabernet Franc and
excellent value blends. Book ahead
for VIP tastings, otherwise feel

free to turn up on the door as their

welcoming tourism team also cater
to walk-ins in English, Spanish and
Portuguese.
Roque Senz Pea 8450, Las
Compuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. (261)
562
9134/35.www.durigutti.com
www.lamadridwines.com

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the winery guide

Achaval Ferrer
Modern boutique close to Mendoza
riverbed. Big concentrated wines. (0261)
488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

Vistalba
Tasting room where one entire wall
is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fab restaurant. Fav Wine: Petit Verdot.
(0261) 498 9400. Roque Saenz Pea 3135,
Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines.com

Familia Cassone
A charming, family owned winery in a
beautiful setting. Try the jasmine tinted
ros amidst the pastoral splendour of the
owners expansive garden.Anchorena
y Terrada. (261) 424 6301.www.
familiacassone.com.ar
MAIPU

Lopez
Popular, old-style winery with two
museums on the wine. Restaurant offers
gourmet cuisine with a panoramic view.
(0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez,
Maip. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

Rutini / La Rural
Well-stocked museum with invaluable
antiques like cowhide wine presses and
buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large,
cavernous halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125.
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maip.
www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Cecchin
A family winery using organic and
biodynamic principles where you can see
the entire process from the beautiful green
vineyards to the minimal intervention
winery. (261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626,
Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

Carinae

La Azul
Simple, small production winery with not
so simple Malbecs and a small traditional
restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua
Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.
com

Finca La Celia
One of the valleys oldest wineries. They
conduct excellent tours and tastings.
(02622) 451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion
s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. www.
fincalacelia.com.ar

Salentein
Designed like a temple to wine, this
ultra-concept winery includes a
modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel
set high in the Andean valley. (02622)
429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.
killkasalentein.com

Clos de los 7

Argentinas biggest winery is a mix of old

and new, traditional and industrial, and
has the old train tracks leading up to it.
(0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito,
Maip. www.trapiche.com.ar

Small, charming, French-owned winery

offering personal tours and well-honed
wines. Surrounded by vineyards and
olive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla
Aranda 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maip
www.carinaevinos.com

In the heart of gorgeous Vista Flores,

you can visit premium French
owned wineries Monteviejo, Rolland,
Diamandes and Cuvelier de los andes in
one visit for tastings, horseriding, art and
lunch. (0261) 156 687680. www.clos7.
com.ar

Flichman

Tempus Alba

O. Fournier

Trapiche

Steeped in history and tradition. Charming,

pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in
the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu.
(0261) 497 2039. Munives 800, Barrancas,
Maip. www.flichman.com

Familia Di Tommasso
Officially the second oldest winery in
Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com

Familia Zuccardi
A professional, far-sighted operation.
Attractive restaurant amidst the vines,
famous for its asado-style lunches and
generous wine pourings. (0261) 441
0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Maip. www.
familiazuccardi.com

Cepas Elegidas
Making real vinos de autor, US born
Brennan Firth makes his limited
production wines in a small winery
in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high
end wines, a visit and tasting is with
the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas
Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

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A fine modern winery set in the rural

lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop
terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481
3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maip. www.
tempusalba.com

AMP Cava
Premium wines made from different
terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city
make it a recommended visit. Gmez
Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maip - (261)
4813201/4668048
VALLE DE UCO

Andeluna
The old-world style tasting room looks
upon dramatic views of vineyards against
mountains. (02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P.
89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www.
andeluna.com

Atamisque
This Uco winery has some great white
wines, a unique stony roof and they
breed their own trout which is served
in the charming restaurant.(0261)
156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,
Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

Most architecturally innovative winery

with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent
lunches in the modernist visitor center.
(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La
Consulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Gimenez Riili
A brand new family run affair, part of
the exciting Vines of Mendoza project.
This is a modern winery in a stunning
setting.
0261-156317105/
0261153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyn.
www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega Masi.
Fascinating Italian job in the heart of
Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially
the Amarone inspired varietals and
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.
www.masitupungato.com
SAN MARTIN

Familia Antonietti
A family winery in San Martin where
you can have a tour with the owners,
try some of their sparkling wines and
stay for a homecooked lunch. (0261)
4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/n esq.
Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martn.

bars
inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to
browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife
strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and
is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars,
restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San
Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get
your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont
even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are
all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
The Vines of Mendoza
As the first and only true tasting room in South America, The
Vines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premium
boutique wines from Argentina. Compare the wine notes
with one of their tasting flights or choose a glass from the
impressive list of limited production wines. Chatting with
their learned bartenders and sipping fabulous flavours makes
for a truly enjoyable afternoon. Belgrano 1194, Tel. 261 4381031. Mon-Sat, 3pm-10pm www.vinesofmendoza.com
El MERCADITO
Aristides still remains the busiest night spot in town and
this resto-bar has to be one of the coolest in town. El
Mercadito is run by three friends and it lets the good times
roll with healthy meals including big salads, which are
a rarity here antioxidant juices, decent brekkie, fresh
cocktails and a top music mix. Spend an evening here and
youll hear a few beats from across the pond and leave with
a light stomach and a few stars brightening up your vision.
El Mercadito, Aristides 521.
BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat

and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor

in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit musicvideo montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.
believeirishpub.com.ar
ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.
Velvet
This hip new club and bar is located 15mins away from
Mendoza in Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails and
great music, spread over a lounge bar and downstairs club
room, this is the best ticket in town for good times on a
Friday and Saturday night. Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961,
Chacras de Coria (261) 467 433.
Black Sheep
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

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USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost
at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available
at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and
at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN
MAIPU The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza
street (see below) where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you
get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended
wineries: Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo.
NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is
wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own
toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going
before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org.
HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca),
tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin
1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped
off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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