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Making high-quality printed circuit

boards in the "home" conditions
Tahiti! .. Tahiti! ..
We were not on any of Tahiti!
We are here and well fed!
cat from the movie

Joining with the retreat

Both in domestic and laboratory fees were doing before? There were
several ways - for example:
1.
drawing pen guides the future;

2.
3.
4.

engraved and cut with cutters;

stuck tape or duct tape, then cut out the picture with a scalpel;

makes simple stencils with subsequent application of the figure

with an airbrush.
The missing elements dorisovyvat pen and retouched with a scalpel.
It was a long and laborious process, requiring "risovatelya"
remarkable artistic ability and neatness. The thickness of the lines
difficult to fit into the 0.8 mm repeatability was no, each card had to
draw separately, which greatly hampered the release of even a very
small batch of printed circuit boards (hereinafter - PP).

What we have today?

Progress does not stand still. The days when hams PP painted stone
axes on the skins of the mammoth, have sunk into oblivion. Market
introduction of public chemistry for lithography gives us a very
different outlook for PP without metallization of holes in the home.
Briefly review the chemistry that is used today to manufacture PCP.

Photoresist
You can use liquid or film. Film in this article will not discuss because
of its scarcity, difficulty rolling to the PCB and the lower the quality of
the output of printed circuit boards.
After analyzing the proposals of the market, I stopped at POSITIV 20
as an optimum photoresist for home production of PP.
Purpose:
POSITIV 20 - photosensitive varnish.
Used in small-scale
manufacturing of printed circuit boards, engravings on copper, while
conducting operations related to transfer images to a variety of
materials.
Properties
High expo features provide a good contrast-borne images.
Application:
It is used in fields related to the transfer of images on glass, plastics,
metals, etc. in small-scale production. Method of application specified
on
the
container.
Features:
Color:
Blue
3
Density:
at
20

C
0,87
g
/
cm

Drying
time
at
70

C
15
min.
2
Consumption:
15
l
/
m
The maximum photosensitivity: 310-440 nm
More about POSITIV 20 can be read here .
The instructions to the photoresist is written that it can be
stored at room temperature and it is unaffected by aging.
Strongly disagree! Keep it should be in a cool place, such as a
refrigerator on the bottom shelf, which is usually maintained at
+2 ... +6 C. But in any case, do not let freezing temperatures!
If you use photoresists sold "by the glass" and not having
opaque packaging is required to take care of the protection from light.
Keep necessary in complete darkness and a temperature of +2 ... +6
C.

Enlightener
Similarly, the most appropriate educator, I think I always used
TRANSPARENT 21.
Purpose:
Allows you to directly transfer images to a surface coated with a
photosensitive emulsion POSITIV 20 or other photoresist.
Properties
Gives transparency paper. Provides transmission of ultraviolet rays.
Application:
For a quick transfer of pictures and diagrams circuits on a substrate.
Can greatly simplify the process of reproduction, and reduce time-s e
costs.
Features:
Color:
Clear
3
Density:
at
20

C
0,79
g
/
cm
Drying
time
at
20

C
for
30
min.
Note:
Instead of plain paper with an educator, you can use transparency film
for inkjet or laser printers - depending on what we print the
photomask.

Photoresist developer
There are many different solutions for developing the
photoresist.
Advised to exercise with a solution of "water glass".
Its
chemical composition: Na 2 SiO 3 *5H 2 O . This substance has
a huge number of advantages. The most important thing is that
it is very difficult to overexpose PP - PP you can leave on time is
not fixed exactly. The solution almost does not change its properties
when the temperature drops (no risk of collapse with increasing
temperature), also has a very long period of storage - its concentration
remains constant for at least a couple of years. No problem of
overexposure in the solution will increase its concentration to reduce
the development time of PP. Recommend mixing 1 part concentrate to
180 parts water (a little over 1.7 grams of silicate in 200 ml of water),
but may make a more concentrated mixture so that the image was
shown for about 5 seconds without the risk of fracture surface for
overexposure. If you can not purchase, use of sodium silicate sodium
carbonate ( Na 2 O 3 ) and potassium carbonate ( K 2 O 3 ).
It is also recommended for residential facility for cleaning of sanitary
equipment - "Mole".
Have not tried neither the first nor the second, so tell what appears
without any problems for several years. I'm using an aqueous solution
of caustic soda. 1 liter of cold water - 7 grams of caustic soda. If
there is no NaOH , apply a solution of KOH , doubling the concentration
of alkali in the solution. Development time - 30-60 seconds at a
proper exposure. If after 2 minutes, drawing does not show (or is
weak), and begins to wash away the photoresist with the workpiece thus improperly selected exposure time: we must increase. If, by

contrast, quickly manifested, but washed out and overexposed areas,

and nezasvechennye - either too high concentration of the solution, or
the poor quality of the photomask (UV pass freely through the "black")
to increase the density of the print pattern.

Solutions of copper etching

Excess copper from printed circuit boards blow off with different
etchants. Among the people involved in this home, often distributed
ammonium persulfate, hydrogen peroxide + Hydrochloric acid, copper
sulfate solution + salt.
I'm always hounding ferric chloride in a glass container. When
working with a solution needs to be careful and considerate: in contact
with clothing and items remain rusty spots that are difficult to remove
a weak solution of citric acid (lemon juice) or oxalic acid.
A concentrated solution of ferric chloride is heated to 50-60 C, in a
plunge preparation, with a glass rod with a cotton swab on the end
gently and without effort are leading to areas where copper is etched
off worse - this is achieved by a finer etching over the entire area of
PP. If you do not align to force the speed increases the required
duration of etching, and this eventually leads to the fact that in areas
where copper is released gently begins Undercutting tracks. As a
result, we are not what they wanted to get. It is very desirable to
provide a continuous stirring the etching solution.

Chemicals for washing the photoresist

What is the easiest way to wash away the photoresist is unnecessary
after the etching? After repeated trial and error I settled on an
ordinary acetone. When he was not - wash off any solvent for
nitrokrasok.

So, make a PCB

How to start a high-quality printed circuit board? Right:

Creating high-quality photomask

For its production, you can use virtually any modern laser or inkjet
printer. Given that we use in this article the positive photoresist, where the PCB copper should remain, the printer must draw black.
Where there should be no copper - the printer does not have to draw.
A very important point when printing photomask: want to set the
maximum watering dye (in the printer driver). The more black areas
will be painted, the more chances to get great results. The color is not
needed, enough black cartridge. From the program (the program will
not consider: everyone is free to choose himself - from PCAD to
Paintbrush), which was drawn photomask, print on plain paper. The
higher the print resolution and higher quality paper, the higher the
quality of the photomask. I recommend at least 600 dpi, paper should
not be much denser. When printing consider that the side of the sheet
on which the paint is applied, the template will be put on the blank PP.
If you do otherwise, the edges of the conductors in PP will be blurred,
indistinct. Give the paint to dry, if it was an inkjet printer. Then
impregnate the paper TRANSPARENT 21, giving dry and ... photomask
ready.
Instead of paper and enlightenment is possible and even desirable to
use a transparent film for laser (for laser printing) or ink (inkjet)
printers. Please note that these films are of unequal: only one
working. If you use laser printing, highly recommend making a "dry"
run sheet film before printing - just drive off a sheet through the
printer, simulating the printing, but nothing is printing. Why do it?
When printing fuser (heater) warms up sheet, which will inevitably
lead to its deformation. As a result - an error in the geometry of the
PP output.
In the manufacture of bilateral PP is fraught with
mismatched layers with all the consequences ... And with the "dry"
run, we progreem sheet, it is deformed and will be ready to print the
template. When you print a list for the second time will pass through

the fire, but at the same strain will be much less significant - it is
checked several times.
If PP is simple, you can draw it by hand in a very user-friendly
program with Russian interface - Sprint Layout 3.0R (~ 650 KB).

In the preparatory phase does not draw too bulky electrical wiring is
very easy to program also Russified sPlan 4.0 (~ 450 KB).

So look ready masks, printed on a printer Epson Stylus Color 740:

We print only in black, with a maximum watering dye.

transparent film for inkjet printers.

Material -

Surface preparation for application of photoresist

PP
For the production of PP sheet materials are used, with image of
copper foil. The most common options - with the thickness of the
copper 18 and 35 microns.
Most often, for the production of
polypropylene used in household foil PCB (pressed with the adhesive
fabric in several layers), glass fiber (the same thing, but used as an
adhesive epoxy resin) and getinaks (pressed paper with glue). At

least - and sittal Polikor (high-ceramics - in the home is rarely used),

Teflon (organic plastic). The latter is also used for the manufacture of
high-frequency
devices,
and
having
very
good
electrical
characteristics, can be used anywhere and everywhere, but its use is
limited by the high price.
First of all, make sure that the workpiece does not have deep
scratches, scuffing and corrosion untouched areas. It is also desirable
to polish the copper mirrors. Polish is not particularly efforts to do
otherwise erase the already thin copper layer (35 microns) or, in any
case, we will achieve different thickness of copper on the surface of
the workpiece. This, in turn, lead to different rates of etching: faster
pit where thinner. And the thinner the conductor on the board - not
always good. Especially if it is long and it will flow a decent current. If
the copper on the workpiece quality, without sin, it is enough to
degrease the surface.

The application of the photoresist on the surface of

the workpiece
Disposal fee to a horizontal or slightly inclined surfaces and causes
the composition of the aerosol dispenser at a distance of
approximately 20 cm We remember that the most important enemy in
this case - the dust. Each particle of dust on the surface of the
workpiece - the source of problems. To create a uniform coating,
spray an aerosol continuous zig-zag motion, starting from the upper
left corner. Do not use aerosol in excessive amounts, because it
causes unwanted smudges and leads to nonuniform thickness of the
coating, which requires a longer exposure time. In the summer at
high ambient temperatures may require reworking, or aerosol should
be sprayed with a smaller distance - to reduce losses from
evaporation. When spraying, do not tilt the bottle hard - it leads to
increased consumption of gas propellant and as a consequence - the
aerosol can quits, although it still remains the photoresist. If you get
unsatisfactory results when applied spray photoresist coating using
centrifugal. In this case, the photoresist is applied to the board,
mounted on a rotating table driven 300-1000 rpm. After the end of
the coating charge shall not be exposed to strong light. According to
color coating can be approximated by the thickness of the applied
layer:

light gray - 1-3 micron;

dark gray - 3-6 microns;

Blue - 6-8 microns;

Dark blue - more than 8 microns.

On the copper color of the coating may have a greenish tint.
The thinner the coating on the workpiece, the better the result.
I always nanoshu photoresist in a centrifuge. In my centrifuge speed
of 500-600 rev / min. Mounting should be simple, time only at the
ends of the workpiece. Anchoring the workpiece, start the centrifuge,
sprayed on the center piece and watch as the photoresist thin layer
spreads over the surface. Centrifugal forces, the excess photoresist
will be reset to the future of PP, so it is recommended to provide a
protective wall, so as not to turn the workplace into a pigsty. I use an
ordinary pot, the bottom of a hole in the center is done. Through this
hole the axis of the motor, on which there is a ground mount in the
form of a cross of two aluminum rails on which the "run" ears clamping
workpieces. The ears are made of aluminum parts, clamped to the rail
nut like "lamb."
Why aluminum?
A small specific gravity and,
consequently, less runout at the center of mass deviates from the
center of rotation of the rotation axis of the centrifuge. The more
precisely center the workpiece, the less will be beating at the expense
of the eccentricity of the mass and the less effort required to physically
fix the centrifuge to the bottom.
Photoresist done.
Give it to dry for 15-20 minutes, turn the

workpiece, a cover layer on the other side. We give another 15-20

minutes for drying. Do not forget that, out of direct sunlight and
fingers on the hand piece workers are not allowed.

Tanning photoresist on the surface of the workpiece

Place the workpiece in the oven, the temperature gradually be advised
to 60-70 C. At this temperature, stand a 20-40 minutes. It is
important that the workpiece does not touch anything - just touch the
ends are allowed.

Align the top and bottom of photomasks on the

surfaces of workpiece
On each of the photomask (top and bottom) should be labels on which
the workpiece to make 2 holes - for combining layers. The farther
away from one another label, the higher the alignment accuracy. I
usually put them on a diagonal pattern. By these marks on the
workpiece by means of a drilling machine directly below 90 drill two
holes (the thinner the hole, the better the combination - I use a drill
0.3 mm) and combine them in patterns, not forgetting that the
template should be applied to the photoresist the side on which was
printed. Presses the template to the workpiece with thin glass. Glass
is preferable to use a quartz - they better pass ultraviolet light. Even
better results are obtained with acrylic (Plexiglas), but it has the
unpleasant property of scratch, which will inevitably affect the quality
of the PP. At small sizes, you can use PP transparent cover of the CD
packaging. For lack of such glasses can be used and the usual
window, increasing the exposure time. It is important that the glass
was flat, providing a smooth fit to the photomask blank, otherwise it
will be impossible to obtain high-quality finished edge of the tracks on
the PCB.

Harvesting of photomasks under Plexiglas. Use the box in which the

CD-ROM.

Exposure (illumination)
The time required for exposure depends on the thickness of the
photoresist and the intensity of the light source. Lac photoresist
POSITIV 20 is sensitive to ultraviolet rays, the maximum sensitivity
falls on a site with a wavelength of 360-410 nm.
Best exhibit under lamps, the range of radiation which is in the
ultraviolet region, but if this lamp you do not - you can use the
powerful and ordinary incandescent lamp, increasing the exposure
time. Do not start until the stabilization of illumination light from the
source - it is necessary that the lamp has been heated for 2-3

minutes. The exposure time depends on the thickness of the coating

and is typically 60-120 seconds at the location of the light source at a
distance of 25-30 cm glass plates used can absorb up to 65% of UV,
and therefore in such cases is necessary to increase the exposure
time. Best results are achieved by using transparent plexiglass plates.
In applying the photoresist with a long shelf life exposure time may
need to double - remember photoresists exposed to aging!
Examples of the use of different light sources:
Light

Time

Distance

mercury lamp Philips HPR125

3 min.

30 cm

mercury lamp 1000W

1.5 min.

50 cm

500W mercury lamp

2.5 min.

50 cm

quartz lamp 300W

3-4 min.

30 cm

sunlight

5-10 min.

lamp Osram-Vitalux 300W

4.8 min.

summer, at
noon, cloudless
40 cm

Note
coating of silica glass
thickness of 5 mm
coating of silica glass
thickness of 5 mm
coating of silica glass
thickness of 5 mm
coating of silica glass
thickness of 5 mm
coating of silica glass
thickness of 5 mm
coating of silica glass
thickness of 8 mm

UV Lamps
Each side on display at a time, after the exposure we give to stand for
20-30 minutes workpiece in a dark place.

The manifestation of the exposed workpiece

Shows the solution NaOH (caustic soda) - for details see the beginning
of the article - a solution at a temperature 20-25 C. If to 2 minutes,
no display - small on the exposure time. If seen well, but are washed
away and useful sites - you're too clever by half with a solution (the
concentration is too high) or too long exposure time for a given source
of radiation or low-quality photomask - not enough rich black printed
allows UV illuminates the workpiece.
When discovering I was always very carefully, without effort "kata"
with a cotton swab on a glass stick to the places where it should wash
off the photoresist Light Damaged - it speeds up the process.

Washing of alkali and harvesting residues detached

illuminated photoresist
I do this under the faucet - ordinary tap water.

Repeated tanning photoresist

Place the workpiece in the oven, gently raise the temperature and at a
temperature of 60-100 C 60-120 stand a minute - picture is strong
and solid.

Checking the quality of display

Short time (5-15 seconds) is immersed in a heated preform to a
temperature of 50-60 C solution of ferric chloride. Quickly washed in

running water. In areas where the photoresist is not, begins an

intense etching of copper. If somewhere accidentally left photoresist
and carefully remove it mechanically. It is convenient to do so or
conventional ophthalmic scalpel, armed with optics (glasses for
soldering, loops, and a watchmaker, a loop on a tripod, microscope).

Etching
Herbs in a concentrated solution of ferric chloride at a temperature
50-60 C. It is desirable to provide a continuous circulation of the
etching solution. Bad bleed seats carefully "massaged" with a cotton
swab on a glass rod. If ferric chloride freshly cooked, the etching time
is typically less than 5-6 minutes.
Wash under running water
harvesting.

The board etched

How to prepare a concentrated solution of ferric chloride? Dissolved
in slightly (to 40 C) with warm water, FeCl 3 as long as no longer to
dissolve. Filter the solution. Store in a dark to a cool place in an
airtight non-metallic packaging - glass bottles, for example.

Removal of the photoresist is unnecessary

Wash off the photoresist with acetone or thinner tracks for nitrokrasok
and nitroenamels.

Drilling holes
Diameter holes at the point of the future photomask preferably
chosen so that afterwards it was easy to drill. For example, if the
required diameter of 0.6-0.8 mm diameter hole at the point of the
photomask should be about 0.4-0.5 mm - in this case, the drill will
align well.
It is desirable to use a drill bit, tungsten carbide coating: drills of high
speed steels are wear out quickly, although steel can be used for
drilling single holes of large diameter (greater than 2 mm) as well as
drills coated with tungsten carbide such diameter is too expensive.
When drilling holes with a diameter of less than 1 mm is better to use
a vertical lathe, otherwise your drill will quickly break down. If a hand
drill to drill - are inevitable distortions, leading to inaccurate mating

holes between the layers. Movement down the vertical drill press is
the best in terms of load on the tool. Carbide drill bits are made from
rigid (ie, drill exactly matches the diameter of the hole) or thick
(sometimes called a "turbo") shank having a standard size (usually 3.5
mm).
When drilling bits with carbide coating is important to
consolidate the hard-PP, as a drill with the upward motion can raise PP,
warp and perpendicular to snatch a fragment of the board.
A small diameter drill bits are usually inserted into a collet (various
sizes), or three-jaw chuck. For accurate fixation fixation in three-jaw
chuck - not the best option, and the small size drills (less than 1 mm)
is quickly making grooves in the terminals, losing a good fit.
Therefore, to drill with a diameter less than 1 mm is better to use a
collet chuck. In any case, buy an extra set that contains the spare
collet for each size. Some cheap drills produced with plastic collets throw them and buy the metal.
To obtain an acceptable accuracy it is necessary to organize a
workplace, that is, firstly, to ensure good coverage of fees for drilling.
You can use the halogen bulb, attaching it to a tripod to be able to
choose the position (to cover the right side). Second, to raise the
working surface of approximately 15 cm above the table top for a
better visual control of the process. It would be nice to remove dust
and shavings during drilling (you can use a regular vacuum cleaner),
but not necessarily. It should be noted that the dust from fiberglass,
which is formed by drilling, a copse and in contact with skin causes
irritation of her. Finally, while working very convenient to use a foot
switch for the drill.
Typical dimensions of the openings:

vias - 0.8 mm or less;

integrated circuits, resistors, etc. - 0.7-0.8 mm;

large diodes ( 1N4001 ) - 1.0 mm;

terminal blocks, trims - 1.5 mm.

Try to avoid the holes with a diameter less than 0.7 mm. Always keep
a spare at least two drills of 0.8 mm or less, because they always
break down at precisely the time when you urgently need to make a
reservation. Drills 1 mm or more is much more reliable, but for them
would be nice to have a spare. When you need to make two identical
cards, then to save time, they can be drilled simultaneously. It must
be very carefully drill holes in the center of the pad around each corner
of PP, but for large board - holes located near the center. Place the
board on each other and using the center of the hole 0.3 mm in two
opposite corners and pins as pegs, secure the board with respect to
each other.
If necessary, you can countersink the holes of larger diameter drill
bits.

Tinning of copper on the PCB

If you want to obludit track on the PCB, you can use a soldering iron,
mild low-melting solder, flux and spirtokanifolnym braided coaxial
cable. For large volumes ludyat in bathrooms, full low-temperature
solders, with the addition of fluxes.
The most popular and easy to melt tin plating is a fusible alloy "Rose"
(Tin - 25% lead - 25%, bismuth - 50%), melting point 93-96 C.
Board with forceps is placed under the level of the liquid melt for 5-10
seconds, taking, check whether all the copper surface is covered
evenly. If necessary, repeat the operation. Immediately after taking
out the motherboard from the melt, its remnants are removed either
with a rubber squeegee, or sudden shaking in the direction
perpendicular to the plane of the board while holding the other in time.
Another way to remove excess alloy "Rose" is a board in an oven
heating and shaking. The operation can be repeated to achieve
monotolschinnogo coverage. To prevent oxidation of the hot melt into
a container for tinning added glycerine, so that it covered the melt rate

of 10 mm. After the process of glycerol board washed in running

water. Note that this operation involves working with plants and
materials that are under the influence of high temperature, so to
prevent burning need to wear protective gloves, goggles and aprons.
The operation of tinning tin-lead alloy proceeds similarly, but a higher
melt temperature limits the application of this method in terms of
handicraft production.
I want to share another way of tinkering with the alloy "Rose" is also
proven in practice. Ordinary tap water is poured into a tin or a small
bowl, add a little citric acid or vinegar, put on the stove. Placed in
boiling water board, pours a few drops of solidified alloy "Rose," which
immediately melted in boiling water and cotton wool, wound around a
long pair of tweezers or a stick (not to get burned by steam), gently
smeared along the paths. Upon completion of the water is discharged,
and the frozen remains of an alloy formed in any capacity before the
next use.
Do not forget to clean up after tinning flux of charge and carefully
degreased.
If you have a big production - it is possible to use chemical tinning.

Application of protective masks

Operations with the application of a protective mask to repeat exactly
everything that was written above: plot the photoresist, dry the,
dubim, tsentruem masks masks on display, exhibits, and washed again
dubim. Needless to say, skip the steps with quality control display,
etching, photoresist removal, tinning and drilling. At the end of dubim
mask for 2 hours at a temperature of 90-100 C - it will provide a firm
and solid, like glass. Founded mask protects the surface of PP from
external influence and prevents theoretically possible fault in the
operation. It also plays an important role in automatic soldering does not "sit" solder on adjacent areas, closing them.

All double-sided board with a mask ready

I had to do so with a width of PCB tracks and step between them to
0.05 mm. (!) But this is a jeweler's work. A little effort can do PCB
with wide tracks and a step between the 0.15-0.2 mm.
On board, as shown in the photographs, I mask is satisfactory - there
was no such need.

The printed circuit board during assembly of components on it

But the device itself, which was made for PP:

This cellular telephone bridge that allows 2-10 times lower cost of
mobile services - was worth messing with the PP).
PCB with
components soldered in the stand . Previously, there had been an
ordinary battery charger for mobile phones.

Additional information
Metallization of holes
At home, you can even plating of holes. To do this, the inner surface
of hole 20 is processed by a 30-percent solution of silver nitrate (lapis
lazuli). Then, the surface is cleaned and squeegee board is dried in
the light (you can use the UV lamp). The essence of this operation is
that when exposed to light silver nitrate decomposes, and the board
are specks of silver. Next is the chemical deposition of copper from
solution: copper sulfate (bluestone) - 2 g, sodium hydroxide - 4 g,
ammonia, 25 per cent - 1 mL of glycerol - 3.5 ml formalin 10 percent 8-15 ml Water - 100 ml. Shelf life prepared solution is very small need to prepare just before use. After the copper deposition charge
washed and dried. Layer is very thin, its thickness must be increased
to 50 microns plated.
Solution
for
copper
plating
electroplating:
1 liter of water 250 g of copper sulphate (bluestone) and 50-80 g of
concentrated sulfuric acid. The anode is a copper plate, suspended
parallel to the covered parts. The voltage should be 3-4 in the current
density - 0,02-0,3 A / cm 2, temperature - 18-30 C. The smaller the
current, the slower the process of plating, but the better the resulting
coating.

A fragment of circuit board, where metallization is visible in the hole

Homemade photoresists
Photoresist based on gelatine and potassium dichromate:
The first solution: 15 g gelatine pour 60 ml of boiling water and leave
to swell for 2-3 hours. After the swelling capacity of gelatin put in a
water bath at a temperature of 30-40 C to dissolve gelatin.
Second solution: 40 ml of boiled water dissolve 5 g of potassium
dichromate (potassium bichromate, powdered bright orange).
Dissolve
in
low
diffuse
light
conditions.
In the first solution under vigorous stirring, pour in the second. In the
mixture with a pipette to add a few drops of ammonia until a straw
color. Emulsion is applied to the prepared board with a very poor light.
The board is dried up "tacky" at room temperature in the dark. After
exposure at low cost scattered light rinse in warm running water to
remove nezadublennogo gelatin. To better assess the results, you can
paint the areas with undeleted gelatin solution of potassium
permanganate.
Enhanced
self-made
photo-resist:
The first solution: 17 g of wood glue, 3 ml of aqueous ammonia, 100
ml of water, leave to swell for a day, then heat in a water bath at 80
C
until
complete
dissolution.
Second solution: 2.5 g of potassium dichromate, ammonium
dichromate, 2.5 g, 3 mL of aqueous ammonia, 30 ml of water, 6 ml of
alcohol.
When the first solution is cooled to 50 C, with vigorous stirring, pour
in a second solution and filter the mixture (this and subsequent
operations should be conducted in a darkened room, the sunlight is
not allowed!). The emulsion is applied at a temperature of 30-40 C.
Then - as in first recipe.
Photoresist on the basis of ammonium dichromate, and
polyvinyl
alcohol:
Prepare a solution of: polyvinyl alcohol - 70-120 g / l, ammonium
dichromate - 8-10 g / l ethanol - 100-120 g / liter. Avoid bright light!
Applied in two layers: the first layer - the dryer for 20-30 minutes at
30-45 C - second layer - drying for 60 min at 35-45 C. Developer 40-percent solution of ethyl alcohol.

Chemical tinning
First of all, the card must be pickle to remove the copper oxide
formed: 2-3 seconds in a 5-percent solution of hydrochloric acid,
followed by rinsing in running water.
Just to chemical immersion tin board in an aqueous solution
containing chlorine tin. Isolation of tin on the surface of the copper
coating occurs when immersed in a salt solution of tin in which the
potential of copper is more electronegative than the coating material.

Potential change in the right direction contributes an introduction to

the solution of a salt of tin complexing agents - thiourea (thiourea).
This type of solutions have the following composition (g / l):

Tin dichloride
Thiourea

SnCl
CS(NH

Sulphuric acid
Tartaric acid

Caustic soda

*2H

SO
O

NaOH

Lactic sodium
Aluminum sulphate, ammonium
(alyumoammoniynye alum)
Temperature, C

5.5

8.5

20

10

50

35-50

30-40

35

200

300

60-70

50-60

18-25

18-25

Among these the most common solutions 1 and 2. Sometimes as a

surfactant for the 1st solution is proposed to use detergent "Progress"
in quantities of 1 ml / liter. Add in the 2 nd solution of 2-3 g / l of
nitrate of bismuth leads to the deposition of an alloy containing up to
1.5% bismuth, which improves the solderability of coating (prevents
aging) and greatly increases the shelf life of soldering components to a
finished PCB.
For the preservation of surface use aerosol sprays on the basis of
fluxing compositions. Damage to the surface of the workpiece varnish
after drying forms a solid smooth film, which prevents oxidation. One
of the most popular materials is SOLDERLAC Company Cramolin.
Follow-soldering is carried out directly on the treated surface without
polish remover. In particularly important cases soldering varnish can
be removed with an alcohol solution.
Artificial solutions for tinning deteriorate over time, especially when
exposed to air. So if you have large orders are rare, try to cook just a
small amount of solution, sufficient for the right amount of tinkering
PP, and the remnants of the solution stored in closed containers
(bottles are ideal types used in photography, do not let the air). It is
also necessary to protect the solution from contamination, which can
severely degrade the substance.
In conclusion I would say that it is better to use ready photoresists
and do not bother with metallized holes in the home - great results still
do not get.

Many thanks to Ph.D. Filatov Tamm ( spliner@rambler.ru ) for advice

on issues related to chemistry.
I'd also like to thank Igor Chudakov ( ichudakov@zilog.com ) for their
advice and experience that he is ready to share.
In preparing the materials of articles under " Skilful hands "on-line Guide
to the production of printed circuit boards , as well as data from the pages of "
Making the PCB fotosposobom "and" Camodelnye photoresists . "
Alexander Malkovich ( alex_nik@msn.com )
Posted - September 11, 2002
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